1l

4

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO

MACMILLAN AND
LONDON
.
.

CO., LIMITED

BOMBAY CALCUTTA MELBOURNE
BOSTON CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO
.

THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
NEW YORK
ATLANTA
.
,

THE MACMILLAN

CO. OF CANADA, LTD. TORONTO

IIKADS OF EIGHT LIONS SHOT BY THE AUTHOR IN BRITISH HAST AFRICA. .

PATTERSON.S. LIMITED MARTIN'S STREET. LONDON 1907 . D. J. WITH A FOREWORD BY FREDERICK COURTENEY SELOUS Wl TH ILL USTRA TION^ MACMILLAN AND ST. CO. H.O.THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO AND Other ast African Adventures BY LIEUT.-COL..

AND BUNGAY. First Edition. BREAD STREET HILL. SUFFOLK. 1907. E. LIMITED. . October.G..RICHARD CLAY AND SONS. November and December.. Reprinted. 1907.

who have perhaps never been very far away from civilisation. the conditions prevailing in British East Africa were very different from what they are to-day. which has modernised the aspect . will be inclined to think that some of the can only assure them the facts rather than otherI incidents are exaggerated. It events occurred.PREFACE IT I is with feelings of the greatest diffidence that . that wise. place the following pages before the public but those of my friends who happen to have heard of have so my rather unique experiences in the wilds often urged that after me to write an account of I my adventures. determined to much hesitation at last do I so. I have toned down and have endeavoured to write a perfectly plain and straightforward account of things as they must be remembered that at the time these actually happened. have no doubt that many of my readers. The railway.

1907. was then only in process of construction. K. Mrs.I. in even a small way to call attention to the beautiful and valuable country which we possess on the Equator. C. allowing Rawson for their kindness in me them. Guilford Molesworth. . C. Mr. Spooner and Mr. away from the simple account of two years' work and play or help the wilds should prove of any interest. Cyril Ward. am much Sir indebted to the Hon. Mr. I shall feel more than compensated for the trouble I I have taken in writing it. My reproduce photographs taken by warmest thanks are also due to that to veteran pioneer of Africa. for book so kindly an introduction " " is Foreword provided by the to write. P. J. If this in it still is. as indeed. giving my little to the public as F. which he has been good enough J.. August. T.C. H. and the country through which it was being state. Selous. E. built was still in its primitive savage railway.viii PREFACE of the place and brought civilisation in its train.

point of springing But had I lion it would pro- .FOREWORD IT first was some seven or eight years ago that I read. H. a by Col. approached him from behind. of the Tsavo man-eating lions. he was himself stalked by one of the dread beasts. especially on that to try light one occasion when whilst watching from a very scaffolding. Nay more I knew that the author had told his story in a most modest manner. supported only by four rickety poles. Patterson. laying but little stress on the dangers he had run when sitting up at nights death of the terrible and compass the man-eaters. brief account written My me at own long experience once that every word of African hunting told in this thrilling : narrative was absolutely true. and sucin ceeded shooting the lion. Fortunately he did not lose his nerve. J. then an engineer engaged on the construction of the Uganda Railway. just when think it was on the this upon him. in the pages of The Field newspaper.

From stories the time of Herodotus until to-day. But no have put some on record myself. and hours of one night eaters is which occupied but a few but the tale of the Tsavo manterrible tragedies spread out an epic of over several months. . begged me . for in of three trees Col. Patterson to its long list my own experience I have known instances of men having been pulled from huts built or on platforms at a greater height from the ground than the crazy structure on which Col.FOREWORD bably have added of victims. lion I innumerable have been told and written. was some years after I read the first account published of the Tsavo man-eaters that I made the It I told him acquaintance of President Roosevelt. all I remembered about it. have ever heard or read equals in I sustained lion story its long- and dramatic as interest the story of the Tsavo man-eaters lion story terrible is told by Col. A usually a tale of adventures. often very pathetic. Patterson. . Patterson was watching on that night of terrors. and he was so deeply as he is in all true stories interested in the story of the nature that he and characteristics of wild animals to send him the short printed This I did account as published in The Field. and only at last brought to an end by the resource and determination of one man.

displayed in attacking. but I think that most of his is readers will agree with full me that the whole volume of interest and information.FOREWORD and it xi was only " : in the last letter I received from him velt that. a great pity that manent form. single-handed. I am now glad to think that in will be preserved to permanent form Patterson the that . described the those two you sent me. The in account given all by Col. It is Patterson's book ." it should not be preserved in perWell. and I venture assure will Col. lions. President RooseI wrote think that the incident in of the Uganda man-eating articles lions. let me say that I have spent the best. difficulties Patterson of how he overcame the which confronted him building a strong and permanent railway bridge across the Tsavo river makes excellent reading whilst the courage he . Finally. President Roosevelt be amongst most interested readers of his book. rhinoceroses and other dangerous animals was sur- passed by the pluck. tact and determination he mutiny which showed in quelling the formidable once broke out amongst his native Indian workers. probable that the chapters recounting the story of the Tsavo man-eating lions will be found more absorbing than the other portions of Col. referring to this story. is most remarkable It is account of which it we have any record. .

and I can assure him that the time passed like magic. for I felt that every word I read was true. September 18. C. SELOUS. WORPLESDON. SURREY. 1907. My interest was held from the first page to the last. . Patterson's book. F.xii FOREWORD part of two nights reading the proof-sheets of Col.

UILDING OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE IV 41 CHAPTER V TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN 5O CHAPTER THE REIGN OF TERROR VI 6l CHAPTER VII 75 THE DISTRICT OFFICER'S NARROW ESCAPE CHAPTER VIII 84 THE DEATH OF THE FIRST MAN-EATER .CONTENTS CHAPTER MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO I I'AflE I CHAPTER II THE FIRST APPEARANCE OF THE MAN-EATERS 2O CHAPTER THE ATTACK ON THE COODS-WAGON III 2Q CHAPTER THE P.

KS CHAPTER A NICIIT XII 131 AFTKK HIPPO CHAPTER A DAY XIII 143 ON THK N'hfNCr K>( AK I'M KNT CHAPTER XIV THK FINDING OF THK MAN-KATKRS' DKN 153 CHAPTER XV UNSUCCESSFUL RHINO HUNTS 1 66 CHAPTER XVI A WIDOW'S STORY 174 CHAPTER AN INI-VKIATKD RHIN'o XVII l8o CHAPTER LIONS "IN Till' XVII 1 ATIII PLAINS 190 CHAPTER XIX I Hi: -IUKKKN CARAVAN 2OJ CHAPTER XX A DAY ON THK ATM I RIVER 2lS CHAPTER XXI THK MASAI AND OTHKR TRI1!K> 228 . . 107 CHAPTER THK SNVAHILI XI II~ AND OTHKR NATIVK TRIP. ()4 CHAPTER X THE COMPLETION OF THK T>AY(> KR1DUK .xiv CONTENTS HAPTER IX PAGB . THK DKVIII OF I HI' SECOND M \N-KATKK .

AT NAIROBI ' 289 CHAPTER XXVII THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND 296 APPENDIX 3'7 .CONTENTS CHAPTER HOW ROSHAN KUAN >AVH> MY LIFE xv XXII HAGE 243 CHAPTER A SUCCESSFUL LION XXIII 260 HUNT CHAPTER XXIV BHOOTA'S LAST SH/KAK 269 CHAPTER XXV A MAN-EATER IN A RAILWAY CARRIAGE 282 CHAPTER XXVI WORK.

.

. 10 it " " " " " The Place of A lucky I shot bird " " 14 15 17 " slept that night in a little palm hut This interminable nyika''' The river crossed by means of a temporary bridge . a piece of torn tent having fallen over 33 them " 35 "A luncheon served to share " it in the wilds. thorn fences " Railhead Camp. .. from the Harbour The Native Quarter. Mombasa " 2 3 5 Well-wooded best hills Yasco da Gama way and slopes of the mainland " Street and Pillar .... on the opposite side of the island" " Deep Waters brought down the huge ..LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Heads of Africa eight Lions shot by the Author in British East Frontispiece I Mombasa. . 18 of Uganda The Tent from which jemadar Ungan Singh was " " My own tent was pitched in an open clearing " Women 19 carried off . "The " I to get there was \^ gharri" " 6 7 pitched my " is tent under some shady palms " " Jesus Fort Kilindini 8 . 23 29 We shared a hut of palm leaves and boughs of the " " 30 " The camps workmen had also been surrounded by 31 . . .. with occasionally a friend 43 ... with its two or three thousand workmen" " The two wounded coolies were left where they lay.

Mabruki . cook. 125 Wa Taita Men M'Kamba Woman " 127 129 134 136 Until it joins the Athi River" "The banks of the Sabaki are lined with trees" .. .. 70 " Perched on the top of water-tanks " 73 77 " I took up my position in a crib made of sleepers" Whitehead on a Trolley at the exact spot where the Lion jumped upon him Abdullah and his two Wives 79 80 83 A " party of Wa Jamousi His length from tip of nose to eight inches" tip of tail was nine feet 92 Head "The " of the " first Man-Eater I 93 following evening took up my position in this same 99 102 107 tree nine feet six inches from tip of nose to tip " of tail. " " " ' The women The women wear a long. 109 first Very soon had the satisfaction of seeing the train cross the finished work" the Flood 110 1 1 1 The completed Tsavo Bridge One of the Trolley Lines after 112 Swahili Caravan Porters " The old caravan road which crossed the " " 118 Tsavo at a ford " .... . .. brightly-coloured cloth themselves only in " attire a short kilt " . I pitched a tent over it" " They found him stuck fast in the bushes of the l>oma 62 64 .. 121 123 We arrived at M'Gogo's capital " in the 124 Making pombe hollowed-out stump of a tree" .... . 119 120 Such was my . and stood three feet eleven and a half inches high "The bridge over the Tsavo rapidly neared completion" . " " stones were The into He measured heavy swung its position " " 108 109 " " " The And girder was run over finally exact place lowered gently into position I ...xviii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS I'AGE " very soon became a great pet " Heera Singh made a wild spring into the water to get clear It " 46 of the falling stone " " 47 " The door which was to admit the lion "When the trap was ready.

198 211 215 Wart-hog " 217 A successful snapshot of an A Masai Chief Masai Warriors Masai Masai impala just after it had been shot " 225 229 231 Woman Women 232 233 Masai Girls N'derobbo Boy N'derobbo Boy.... . Imam Wa .. with Collabus Monkey N'derobbo Girl ... Slaves chained neck to neck as was the custom" 172 Hospital Tent at Voi where Mrs.. the man-eaters' den " ! 1 56 "\Vatchtheanimalscomedowntodrink" " The antelope swinging by his feet " Hippo Head " 159 163 165 .. . 234 235 236 237 Wa Kikuyu Wa Wikuyu " " 239 240 of the The women " Kikuyu carry the heavy loads Din" Spooner's plucky servant. 241 277 . O'Hara rested In the Bazaar at Kampala " The great Athi Plains " " " First the earth surface has to be prepared " Cuttings have to be made and hollows banked 176 179 180 182 up" 183 185 "Another gang drops the " " It rails in their places" never moved again well " " 188 The trophy was it worth the pains I had taken to add 189 191 to my collection Jackson's Hartebeeste and Zebra Waterbuck " 192 fell Fortunately the brute dead in after this final effort " " We I " triumph to the camp got near enough for a safe shot. . which bowled the antelope over stone-dead" managed to bring them " .LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS " I xix caught sight of a him over" fine waterbuck and successfully bowled 144 close to " A young one was lying down quite all me " 145 151 A " Crocodile on the Sabaki Beyond doubt..

. .xx LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE A " Collection of Trophies 281 " .. . on Lake Victoria N van/a . . 287 Impala " 288 . Tana River Water" (Eldama Ravine) . away to the north amid en- chanting scenery" \Va Kikuyu Warriors 329 338 Map of British East Africa 339 ... named Landaalu " . He was I kept on view for several days. . 294 295 Steamer unloading at Kisumu. oryx pattersonitinits 313 316 . . . 291 . War Canoe View on Lake Victoria Nyanza. cheery fellow . 296 297 298 Shimone. "The Place of Falling Oryx Roan Antelope " 299 An excellent. The Grand Falls. near the Ripon Falls 319 Preparing Breakfast in Camp in the Kenya Province flying visit in a in 320 324 325 " "A " rickshaw to Kampala'' Clad long flowing cotton garments 326 327 Jinja " " Rushing over the Ripon Falls" 328 The mighty river stretching . took a photograph of him standing beside his fine trophy" " Succeeded in finishing him off without further trouble" . . 300 301 Crossing a Stream on the Cook's Box Crossing the Angarua River 303 305 Reedbuck The New Eland Thomson's Gazelle T. and then shot . . .

on the east coast of Africa. THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAPTER I MY ARRIVAL AT TSAYO IT first was towards noon on March i. The town lies on an island of the same name. that I found myself entering the narrow and somewhat dangerous harbour of Mombasa. close under the . separated from the mainland only by a very narrow channel. quaint old Portuguese fortress 1 built over three hundred years ago. which forms the harbour and as our vessel steamed slowly in. every B - . 1898.MOMBASA. out before me. FROM THE HARBOUR. was much struck with the which gradually opened strange beauty of the view Contrary to my anticipation.

in plentifully sprinkled with I Arab some of which. unexpected picture. The harbour was dhows. to me. believe. even at the . and an oriental glamour of enchantment seemed to hang over the island. huge baobabs and spreading mango darker background of well-wooded trees hills . and green.2 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO looked fresh CHAP. The old town was bathed in brilliant sunthing shine and reflected its itself lazily on the motionless sea. dreamily between waving palms and lofty cocoanuts. flat roofs and dazzlingly white walls peeped out THK NAIIVK (.>r. MOM1SASA.\KTI-:K. and the and slopes on the mainland formed a very effective setting to a beautiful and.

There were . It has always been a the navigators of matter of great wonder to these little me how vessels find their way from to port to port. men on board. Ocean. and crew making signals of our captain slowed four down all to investigate.-\VOODED HILLS AND SLOPES ON THE MAINLAND. I remember once coming terrible across a dhow becalmed its in the middle of the Indian distress. and how they manage weather the "\VEU. nearly dead from thirst they had been without drink of any kind for several days B 2 . as they do. a few slaves are occasionally smuggled off to Persia and Arabia. without the aid of either compass or sextant.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO present day. storms that at certain seasons of the year suddenly visit eastern seas.

in Luckily. principal street the of Mombasa Street appropriately called still Vasco da Gama there is stands a curiously-shaped pillar which said to have been erected by this great seaman in his visit. leaving them still becalmed midst of that glassy sea. who plotted wreck the vessel on the reef which bars more than half the entrance to the harbour. as by magic.THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO and had CHAP. After completely lost their bearings. commemoration of if Scarcely had the anchor been dropped. which as a boy that it it had been my delight to read. we directed them to Muscat (the port they wished to make). the romantic surroundings of the harbour of Mombasa conjured up visions of stirring adventures of the past. and recalled to my mind the many tales of reckless doings of pirates and slavers. our vessel was surrounded by a fleet . I remembered was at this very place that in 1498 the great Vasco da Gama nearly lost his ship and life through to the treachery of his Arab pilot. and our vessel resumed in the its journey. Whether they managed to reach their destination I never knew. this time. when. nefarious design was discovered and the bold navigator also w ould r promptly hanged the pilot. giving them some casks of water. As our steamer made its way to its anchorage. and have sacked the town but for the timely In submission and apologies of the Sultan.

encounter. officials from one of the Customs quarters of the railway were to be found. my object in coming out to East Africa at this time was to take up a position to which I had been appointed by the Foreign Office staff of on the construction the Uganda Railway.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO " " of small boats and dug-outs manned by crowds After a short of shouting and gesticulating natives. Now. therefore. enquired where the headI As soon as I landed. I found myself being vigorously rowed to the foot of the landing steps by the bahareen (sailors) who had been successful in the VASCO DA GAMA STREET AND PILLAR. and . fight between some rival Swahili boatmen for my luggage and person.

which I found to be a small trolley. . I secured one of these vehicles. banana and palm here and there brilliantly-coloured trees.THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO was told that they CHAP. . laid which are pushed by two strapping Swahili boys. some island. were at a place called Kilindini. on the other side of the The best way to get there. and was soon flying down the track. which once outside the most part through dense groves of mango." which are town. with town lay for the . I was further informed. through the principal street of the Accordingly. was by gharri. three miles away. having two seats placed back to back under a little canopy and running on narrow rails "THE BEST WAY TO GET THERE . baobab. WAS BY gharri.

Mombasa attention. discovery of ancient . itself It is naturally occupied most of my supposed to have been founded but the about A.D. On arrival at Kilindini. 1000. I made my way to the Railway Offices and was informed that I should be stationed inland and should receive further instructions in the course of a day or two. tent under some shady palms near the gharri and busied myself in exploring the island and in procuring the stores and the outfit necessary The town of for a lengthy sojourn up-country.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO creepers hanging in luxuriant festoons from the branches." pitched my line. Meanwhile I " I PITCHED MY TEXT UNDER SOME SHADY PALMS.

" and an is still inscription recording this to be seen over the of main entrance. The Portuguese occupation . and of coins of the early Persian and Chinese dynasties. goes to show that it must at different ages have been settled by people of the very earliest times. rovers piously named it These enterprising sea"Jesus Fort." occupation remains fortress.THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. Egyptian idols. it civilisations. it is believed. Coming off to more modern was held on and the Portuguese. of a still older stronghold. built in the shape of the grim old about 1593 on the site. from 1505 to 1729 by a permanent memorial of whose "JESUS FORT.

however. which in 1888 was formed . gave for an annual rental a concession of his mainland territories to the British East Africa Association. The Arabs. the little garrison held out valiantly in Jesus Fort. From March 15. but in 1887 Seyid Bargash. the then Sultan of Zanzibar. which completely island. to which they had been forced to retire.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO Mombasa was. bringing the long-looked-for rein- forcements. not without its vicissitudes. to the sword. 1698. although the latter made one more attempt in 1769 . treachery and famine. as represented by the Sultan of Zanzibar. but were unsuc- cessful until 1728. for example. when the Arabs made a citadel. The in Arabs. remain in nominal possession of to the present Mombasa day . when the town was stormed and captured by General Sampayo. After this the Portuguese made attempts to reconquer Mombasa. both men and appeared several women. how- overwhelming and again drove the Portuguese out and numbers. 1696. sur- rounded the In spite of plague. returned the next year ever. determined attack and captured the It putting the remnant of the defenders. until last December 12. to regain their lost supremacy. they did not succeed. the town was besieged for thirty-three consecutive months by a large fleet of Arab dhows. is pathetic to read that fleet only two days later a large Portuguese off the harbour.

.. Mombasa . attempted to defy the British and to throw off their He was defeated on several occasions." so recently as 1895-6. The last serious fighting on the island took place "KILINDIM is . proclaimed . Altogether. and was finally forced to flee southwards into has in German territory. and a Protectorate was into the Imperial British and ten years later the administration of the country was transferred to the Colonial Office. In 1895 the Foreign Office took over control of the Company's possessions. East Africa Company. howyoke. when a Swahili chief named M'baruk bin Rashed. who had three times previously risen in rebellion against the Sultan of Zanzibar.IO THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OK THE ISLAND. ever.

it is rapidly becoming a thriving for and prosperous town. . from a needle to an anchor. readily be obtained. as I have its said.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO the past well deserved its ii native name of Kisiwa M'vita. it does a large forwarding trade with the "THE PLACE OF DEEP WATERS. or "Isle of rule War". but under the settled now obtaining." interior and has several excellent stores where almost anything. and as the port of entry Uganda. has a much finer harbour than The channel between that possessed by Mombasa. may Kilindini is. and as name " the place of deep waters" implies. on the opposite side of the island.

and on . McCulloch. I found the journey a most interesting one. Kilindini has now really become the principal port. land. daylight I accordingly started at next morning in a special train with Mr. about one hundred and thirty-two miles from the charge of the construction of the section of the line at that place. park upwards through country. the and the mainland is here capable of giving commodious and safe anchorage to the very largest vessels. I had spent nearly a week in Mombasa. as the country was in every way new is to me. Anderson. and to take been reached by railhead.12 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO island CHAP. the Superintendent of Works. and as the jetty is directly connected with the Uganda Railway. in honour of the great Minister for Foreign Affairs under whose direction the Uganda Railway scheme was underafter reaching the taken. and Dr. For twenty miles our train main- wound steadily . which had just then coast. being always used by the liners and heavier vessels. the principal Medical Officer and . and the railway crosses this by a bridge about three-quarters of a mile long. when one morning I was delighted to receive an official letter instructing me to proceed to Tsavo. The island of Mombasa separated from the mainland by the Strait of Macupa. called the Salisbury Bridge. and was becoming very anxious to get my marching orders.like beautifully wooded.

at once seized his rifle and by a lucky shot brought the as down the huge bird . some eighty miles from the coast.i MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO 13 looking back out of the carriage windows we could every now and again obtain lovely views of Mombasa and Kilindini. fine if Dr. while beyond these the Indian Ocean sparkled in the glorious sunshine as far as the eye could see. and finds the carriage as is way into everything in the train passes along. prize. the to catch sight of a few from the carriage windows. Wa Nyika. This its dust is of a most penetrating character. the next and greater difficulty." but almost the only difference to be noticed in the character of the country was that the colour of the dust had changed. however. a wilderness covered with poor scrub and stunted trees. McCulloch having a race with us. and carpeted in the dry season with a layer of fine red dust. we came to the end of this "desert." At Maungu. however. was to secure the For a time the . We managed. and also noticed some of the natives. As our \ve train sped onwards through the level uplands ostrich striding along parallel with saw a line. The summit of the Rabai Hills having been reached. or "children of the wilderness. From here onward game more or less plentiful. but the animals are very difficult to see owing to the thick undergrowth in which they hide themselves. we entered on the expanse of the Taru Desert.

was shunted back to where be the ostrich We found it to to an all exceptionally fine specimen. and had exert our strength to drag it on board the train." Soon after this we reached Voi. "A LUCKY SHOT BROUGHT DOWN THE HUGE BIRD.14 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO signals CHAP. engine-driver took no notice of our shouts. and we succeeded in attracting his and the had train fallen. but at last attention. about a hundred this miles from the coast. resuming our journey. and as was the most yet important station on the line that to. we soon discovered that a pleasant change had occurred in the character of . we had come we made a short halt in order to inspect some construction work which was On going on.

From a place called N'dii. the railway runs for wooded country. which stretches away westwards for scores of miles. towards dusk. we arrived at our destination." place of the Wa Taita people. Here our journey was slow. some miles through a beautifully which looked all the more inviting after the deadly monotony of the wilderness through which we had just passed. the dwelling- " I SLEPT THAT NIGHT IN A LITTLE PALM HUT. Tsavo. I slept that night in a . To the south of us could be seen the N'dii range of mountains.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO the landscape. while on our right rose the rigid brow of the N'dungu Escarpment. as every now and again we stopped . to inspect the permanent works in progress but eventually.

My first impression on coming out of my hut was that I was hemmed a little in on all : sides penetrable jungle hill by a dense growth of imand on scrambling to the top of I close at hand. I found that the whole r . and which was fortunately unoccupied It for the time being. thick undergrowth and thorns. not even possessing a door. hardly think in my rickety Next morning I was up betimes. country as far as could see was covered with low " stunted trees. little palm hut which had been built by some previous traveller. This interminable nyika. and added by its rugged barrenness to the dreariness of the picture. seeking I should have slept so peacefully shelter. indeed. or wilderness of whitish and leafless dwarf trees. whom they might devour. presented a ghastly and sun- and here and there a ridge of dark-red heat-blistered rock jutted out above the stricken appearance .16 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. and two if I had realised that brutes at very savage were prowling I round. Away to the north-east . wait-a-bit " The only clearing. I could see the stars I twinkling through little knew then neighbouro that what adventures awaited me in this hood time . appeared to be for the railway where the narrow track had been cut. was rather broken-down and I dilapidated. and as lay on my narrow camp bed the roof. eager to make acquaintance with my new surroundings. jungle.

name. and little my "boys" pitched my tent in a clearing close . and began I When earnest to make preparations for my stay in this out- of-the-way place. welcome landscape. always cool latter and always running. the being an exceptional "THIS INTERMINABLE Ityika" attribute in this part of East Africa of lofty green relief trees to along its and the fringe banks formed a .MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO N'dungu Escarp- stretched the unbroken line of the ment. I returned to my hut. while far off to the south I could just catch a glimpse of the snow-capped top of towering Kilima N j'aro. The one redeeming This is feature of the neighits bourhood was the river from which Tsavo takes a swiftly-flowing stream. the general monotony of the had thus obtained a rough idea of the in neighbourhood. The stores were unpacked.

to had slept the night before and not far Railhead had from the main camp of the workmen. to I accordingly made a what had be done." had be pushed on with all speed. and some thousands of Indian coolies and other the line workmen were encamped there. and the other works for a distance of side thirty on each survey of of Tsavo.i8 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO where I CHAP. My principal to work was complete miles to erect the all permanent structure. As " THE RIVER CROSSED BY MEANS OF A TEMPORARY BRIDGE. a diversion had been made and the river crossed by means to of a temporary bridge. at this time just reached the western side of the river. and sent my .

C 2 . WOMEN OF UGANDA. supplies In a short time in. through the and blasting. came pouring drilling district. and the workmen and noise of hammers echoed merrily and sledges. tools and material to the head- quarters at Kilindini.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO requisition for labour.

CHAPTER II THE FIRST APPEARANCE OF THE MAN-EATERS UNFORTUNATELY continue for long. and their man-stalking so well-timed and so certain of success. Two most voraci- ous and insatiable man-eating lions appeared upon the scene. This when a perfect reign of terror in December. but as time went on they stopped at nothing and indeed braved any danger in order to obtain their favourite food. Many a time the . that the work- men at all. and for over nine months waged an intermittent warfare against the railway and all those connected with culminated 1898. they actually succeeded in bringing the they were not always successful railway works to a complete standstill for about three weeks. Their methods then became so uncanny. in it in the vicinity of Tsavo. firmly believed that they were not real animals but devils in lions' shape. At first in their efforts to carry off a victim. in happy state of affairs did not and our work was soon interrupted this a rude and startling manner.

Shortly afterwards one or two coolies I mysteriously disappeared. I was roused one morning about daybreak and told that one of my jemadars. no time in lost making an examina- tion of the place. insult and by stopping its progress thus shown to them. so I thought it were. and dragged Naturally off I and eaten. as quite likely that some scoundrels from for the the gangs had murdered them sake of their money. I avenge the had only been a few days at Tsavo when I first heard that these brutes had been seen in the neighbourhood. About three weeks after my arrival. was very soon dispelled. however. the hands of some of it They happened. This suspicion. and was told that they their tents had been carried off by night from and devoured by lions. and was more inclined to believe that the unfortunate at men had been the victims of foul play their comrades.CH. was absolutely They were quite convinced that the angry spirits of two departed native chiefs had taken this form in order to protest against a railway being made through to their country. and was soon convinced that the . had been seized in his tent during the night. and had each saved a fair number of rupees. At the time I did not credit this story. ii APPEARANCE OF THE MAN-EATERS me that it 21 coolies solemnly assured useless to attempt to shoot them. a fine powerful Sikh named Ungan Singh. very good workmen.

and one of his bedfellows had actually witnessed the occurrence. man had as its "pug" marks were plainly visible in the sand. He graphicat about midnight. and who. the jemadar shared his tent with half a dozen other workmen. himself met with a it tragic fate very shortly afterwards. the lion ally described how. Moreover. The next moment he was gone. while the furrows made by the heels of the victim showed the direction in which he had been dragged away. and was accompanied by to Captain Haslem. forced to listen to the terrible Poor Ungan struggle which took place outside. fighting with a lion " ? I On hearing this dreadful story at once set out to try to track the animal. We an easy matter to follow the route taken by the lion. Pools of blood marked these halting-places. Singh must have died hard but what chance had he? As a coolie gravely remarked. and threw arms up round the lion's neck. " Was he not . as he appeared to have stopped several times before beginning his meal. CHAP. and his panic-stricken companions lay helpless. where he doubtless . suddenly put seized its head in at the open tent door and Ungan Singh " the opening who happened to be nearest The unfortunate by the throat.22 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO indeed been carried off by a lion. poor fellow. who happened be staying at Tsavo found at the time. fellow cried out his O0n? " (" Let go").

and On the flesh looked dry. and lay a short distance away from the other remains.n APPEARANCE OF THE MAN-EATERS 23 indulged in the man-eaters' habit of licking the skin off so as to get at the fresh blood. (I have been led to believe that this is their custom from the I appearance of two half-eaten bodies which : subse- quently rescued the skin was gone in places. the eyes staring wide . reaching the spot where the body had been devoured. as if it had been sucked. The ground a dreadful spectacle presented itself.) THE TENT FROM WHICH Jemadar UNGAN SINGH WAS CARRIED OFF. but the unfortunate jemadars head left intact. had been save for the holes made by the lion's tusks on seizing him. all round was covered with blood and morsels of flesh and bones.

the other workmen remained left in I their tents. for we did not bury. perch by a few of the. experience of man-eating I Thus occurred my lions.24 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. Shortly after settling hopes of bagging one of the brutes were raised by the sound of their ominous down my vigil. more terrified coolies. horrified look in them. That same night I sat up in a tree close to the late jemadars it tent. but took back to camp for identification before the Medical Officer. the head with terrified stare seeming to watch us all the it fixed. We collected the remains as well as we could and its heaped stones on them. open with a startled. It was the most gruesome sight I had ever seen. my roaring coming closer and closer. and on closer examination we found that two lions had been there and had probably struggled for possession of the body. begged to be allowed to sit up in the tree with my all who me . time. one barrel loaded with ball and the other with to slug. had with me my 303 and a 12 -bore shot gun. but no more doors were open. or how narrow were to be my own escapes from sharing poor Ungan Singh's fate. for first there and then that would no pains to I little neighbourhood of the knew the trouble that was in store rid the me. and I vowed spare brutes. return to for hoping that the lions would I was followed to another victim. The place was considerably cut up. Presently this .

as one of men his turn I lamp was followed by another leading a goat. my however. we knew then that the lions had seized a victim there. however. but the feeling I well remember of impotent enced when cries disappointment I experiabout midnight I heard screams and and a heartrending shriek. shortly after I A steady commenced had settled down night of watching. did not at the idea of walking the half-mile to the place after dark. hoping to get a shot. and that we should see or hear nothing further of them that night. All at once. I took up I my position all like in a suitable tree near this tent. After a night's rest. therefore.ii APPEARANCE OF THE MAN-EATERS 25 ceased. as always stalk their prey in complete silence. which tied under my tree in the hope that the lion might be to carried a bright close behind me. . which told me that the man-eaters had again eluded me and had claimed another victim elsewhere. my uncomfortable post. and quiet reigned for an hour or two. but all the same I felt fairly safe. we heard a great uproar and frenzied cries coming from another camp about half lions a mile away . Next morning I found that one of the brutes had broken into a tent at Railhead Camp whence we had heard the commotion during the night and had made off with a poor wretch who was lying there asleep. and I was soon thoroughly I stuck to chilled and wet. my He in tempted drizzle to seize it instead of a coolie.

and as their tactics seemed to be to break into a different camp each night. dense wilderness as surrounded us. In a thick jungle of the kind round Tsavo the hunted animal has every chance against the hunter. too. to have an extraordinary and uncanny faculty of finding out our plans beforehand. it was most difficult to forestall them. " bearer from the fast clutches of the w ait-a-bit and often with immense pains only to lose the trail I succeeded in tracing the lions to the river after they had seized a victim. moreover. a dead twig or something of the sort is sure to crackle just at the Still I never critical moment and so give the alarm. so that the lions had a range of some eight miles on either side of Tsavo to work upon . so that no matter in how likely or how tempting a spot we lay in wait for them. time the various camps for the workmen were very scattered. in such a camp. They almost appeared. was an exceedingly tiring and really foolhardy undertaking.26 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO At this CHAP. as however careful the latter may be. and accordingly continued to devote all my spare time to Many a crawling about through the undergrowth. owing to . gave up hope of some day finding their lair. time when attempting I to force to my way through this bewildering tangle had be released by r my gun" . from there onwards. particular place they invariably avoided that and seized their victim for the night from some other Hunting them by day.

oil The rattle were strung across the donkey's and clatter made by these as he dragged them after him gave him such a fright that he turned tail and bolted off into the jungle. the lions were not always successful a efforts to capture human being for their nightly meal. ing bunniah (Indian trader) was riding along on his donkey late one night. and seized on which he was He and made lying. a shivering with fear. his tent one night. or became entangled tins a rope by which two empty neck. when in some way. and one or two relieve amusing incidents occurred to the tension from which our nerves were On one occasion an enterprisbeginning to suffer. to the intense relief of the terrified bunniah. Shortly after this Greek contractor equally named Themistocles Pappadimitrini had an marvellous escape. am glad to in their say. when suddenly a lion sprang out on him. and the lion was just about to seize the trader. episode. the Greek was quite unhurt and suffered from nothing worse than a . The donkey was other his claws badly wounded. who quickly made his way up the nearest tree and remained there. was sleeping peacefully in when a lion broke in. I At this early stage of the struggle. for the rest of the night. off with the mattress Though rudely awakened.ii APPEARANCE OF THE MAN-EATERS 27 the rocky nature of the ground which they to seemed be careful to choose in retreating to their den. knocking over both man and in beast.

nothing the man-eaters. in his hurry he grabbed a large bag of rice which happened to be lying in the tent. met with a melancholy fate not long afterwards. showed a complete contempt for human Having once marked down a victim. or sitting round a brightly burning fire. which was badly torn . flurried or frightened them in the least. n bad This same man. or inside a closed tent. whether he were protected by a thick fence. Shots. they would allow nothing to deter them from securing him. and except as food they beings. These. however. and made off with it. and on cut the return journey attempted to take a short across country to the railway. but instead of seizing the man himself. were only the earlier efforts of Later on. but perished miserably of thirst on the way. The brute landed with one claw on a coolie's shoulder. to the Kilima N 'jaro district to buy He had been cattle. shouting and firebrands they alike held in derision. however. . CH. dropping it in disgust some little distance away when he realised his mistake.28 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO fright. as will be seen. On another occasion fourteen coolies who slept together in a large tent were one night awakened by a lion suddenly jumping on to the tent and breaking through it.

so that on that occasion I fancy one or other of us this experience. Warned by .'' -CHAPTER III THE ATTACK ON THE GOODS-WAGON ALL this time my own tent was pitched in an open clearing.VS c.] [MR. Dr. \V. how- ever. was staying with me. KAW'SON ] "MY 0\VX TENT PITCHED IX AN OPEN CLEARING. round it. plainly revealed the pug marks of a lion. but on going out with a lantern we could discover nothing. " " Daylight. unprotected by a fence of any kind One night when the medical officer. had a narrow escape. we were awakened about midnight by hearing something tumbling about among the tent ropes.[TIIK AI'THOR. Rose. .

at who had just arrived district. Brock and I used For the under it to sit out . about seventy yards in diameter. Tsavo charge of the We we shared a hut of palm leaves and boughs. was always kept up throughout the sake of coolness. and a bright night. the verandah of this hut in the evenings but was . or thorn fence. Our personal servants fire also lived within the enclosure. Brock." and we had surrounded by a circular boma.30 at THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO once arranged to move to take medical CHAP. which had constructed on the eastern side of the river.M LEAVES AND BOUGHS. well it made and thick and high. close to the old caravan route leading to Uganda . I my quarters. and went to join forces with Dr. "\VE SHARED A HUT OF PAI.

We reach. inky darkness circle "THE CAMPS OF THE WORKMEN HAD ALSO BEEN SURROUNDED BY THORN FENCES. and be on us before we were therefore kept our rifles within easy aware. that the lions had come quite close to the in fortunately they never succeeded getting through. as we never knew when a lion might rather spring over the boma. and cast many an anxious beyond the glance out into the of the firelight. By also this time. been surrounded by thorn fences nevertheless the lions managed to jump over or to break through ." On but one or two occasions. we found in the morning fence .in THE ATTACK ON THE GOODS-WAGON trying to 31 our nerves to attempt to read or write there. too. the camps of the workmen had .

area to as Railhead Camp with its two or three thousand wide remained take at men. and it was also the duty of the night-watchman to keep clattering half a dozen empty oil tins suspended from a convenient tree. In fact. scattered over a Tsavo. however.32 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CH. the attentions of the lions became more apparent and made a deeper impression. matters altered considerably. man was the reports of the to disappearance of this or that me with painful frequency. I suppose. These he manipulated by means of a long . was then left with only some few hundred . Each man felt. and regularly every few carried off. that as the man-eaters had such a large number of victims to choose from. were kept burning Within these enclosures all fires night. men to and as all the complete the permanent works remaining workmen were naturally camped together. workman coming in So long. the coolies appeared not much notice of the dreadful deaths of their comrades. the chances of their selecting him in particular were But when the large camp moved ahead very small. and it required powers of persuasion to induce the men to stay on. I succeeded in doing so only by allowing them to knock off all regular work until my they had built exceptionally thick and high bonias round each camp. I with the railway. panic A regular all consequently ensued. in some one or other nights a of these.

am D .

he was more sucas he jumped on to and broke through a which eight patients were lying. the lions would not be denied.34 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO . in a clearing about three-quarters of a mile from my hut. cessful. When hospital the railhead left workmen moved behind. Two of . unfortunately. horrified to see a great lion standing a few ing a noise outside. their camp was stood rather apart from the other camps. however. It on. while sitting in safety within his tent frightful and the up all noise thus produced was kept at frequent intervals during the night in the hopes of terrifying away the man-eaters. which gave the Assistant such a fright that he jumped backwards. however. for before very long one of them found a weak spot in the boma and broke through. CHAP. luckily upset a This crashed down with such a loud clatter of breaking glass that the lion was startled for the moment and made off to another part of the enclosure. On this occasion the HearHospital Assistant had a marvellous escape. as if barriers were of no avail against the "demons ". and men continued to disappear. and in doing so box containing medical stores. he opened the door of his tent and was yards away looking at him. rope. It seemed. tent in Here. but was all protected by a good thick fence and to appear- ance was quite secure. In spite of these precautions. The beast made a spring towards him.

in THE ATTACK ON THE GOODS-WAGON 35 them were badly wounded by his spring. a fresh site a all enclosure. A PIECE OF TORN TENT HAVING FALLEN OVER THEM. "THE TWO WOUNDED COOLIES WERE LEFT WHERE THEY LAY. decided to up all night in the D 2 . while a third poor wretch was seized and dragged off The two wounded bodily through the thorn fence. and hedge built round the the patients were moved in before stout lions generally visit recently sit As I had heard that I deserted camps." dawn next morning. coolies were left having fallen I doctor and where they lay. We at once decided to move the hospital closer to the main camp . a piece of torn tent and in this position the over them found them on our arrival soon after . was prepared. nightfall.

The brute then seized him in his mouth. and dragged it with him until he was forced to let go by He being stopped by the side of the tent. with his head towards the centre of the tent and his feet nearly touching the side. managed to him by the box and pulled him In desperation the un- fortunate water-carrier clutched hold of a heavy in a vain attempt to prevent himself being carried off. lonely vigil I had the mortification of hearing shrieks direction and cries coming from the telling of the that new our hospital. The lion get foot its head in below the canvas. and he sprang at a few vicious shakes the poor bhisti s agonising cries were silenced for ever. As soon as the lion managed his throat to get him after clear of the tent. and clung its it tightly to until it broke. had been lying on the floor. it appears. The bhisti. to the place at daylight I Hurrying found that one of the lions had jumped over the newly erected fence and had carried off the hospital bhisti (water-carrier). like a huge cat with a mouse. then caught hold of a tent rope. and that several other coolies had been unwilling witnesses of the terrible scene which took place within the circle of light given by the big camp fire. vacated boma in the hope of getting an opportunity of bagging one of them but in the middle of my . seized out. and ran up and down the boma . me only too plainly dreaded foes had once more eluded me.36 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP.

and to sit in this Brock and I arranged still up that night. We left a couple of tents standing within the enclosure. and before nightfall. who had been places in seen the no less than three different neighbourhood during the afternoon (April 23). Dr. little There was left was the usual horrible sight. I When the patients had been moved. and also tied up a few cattle in in it as bait for the lions. still the work was completed.in THE ATTACK ON THE GOODS-WAGON weak spot to 37 looking for a presently break through. it was decided to move the hospital . was sent to the man's widow Again again. castes). dragging his victim with him and leaving shreds of torn cloth and flesh as ghastly evidences of his passage through the thorns. Brock and I were easily able to follow his track. including a stronger and thicker boma. Four miles from Tsavo they had attempted to seize a coolie who was walking along the line. and soon found the remains about in four hundred yards away the bush. and this. a few of the larger bones and a portion of the palm with one or two fingers attached. On one of these relic was a silver ring. of the unfortunate bhisti Very only the skull. Fortu- . This he found and plunged into. with the teeth (a much prized by certain in India. the jaws. had a covered goods-wagon placed in a favourable position on a siding which ran close to the site which had just been abandoned.

in the direction of the abandoned bovia. to our right. Then again came dead silence. next appeared close to Tsavo Station. he had just time to escape up a where he remained. . which. In accordance with our plan. Soon afterwards we heard a dull thud. as jumped over the boma. For an hour or two everything was and the deadly silence was becoming very monotonous and oppressive. and settled down the watch about ten o'clock. and we knew that an animal of some sort was about.38 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. too. we did a very foolish thing in taking up our position so late nevertheless. and we could hear them moving about restlessly. which was about a mile away from our hut. until he was rescued by the Traffic Manager. tree. however. a dry twig snapped. quiet. and a couple of hours later some workmen saw one of the lions stalking Dr. Brock as he was returning about dusk from the hospital. more dead than alive. became if very uneasy. the doctor and I set out after dinner for the goods-wagon. of course. who They caught sight of him from a passing train. we were unable to see in the inky darkness. nately. when suddenly. We had the lower half of the door of the wagon closed. we . reached our destination to our in safety. In the light of subsequent events. however. while : upper half was left wide open for observation and we faced. some heavy body had The cattle.

however. as I could see better in that that position should the lion his prey. for at that very did moment one of the man-eaters although we not know it was quietly stalking us. Brock did not answer he told me afterwards that he. he was closed. outside position. to trust which by that time were strained by prolonged staring through the darkness. all the time. and was even then almost within springing distance. come in our direction with Brock. could with my rifle. however. As a matter however. and a few seconds afterwards I was heartily glad that had taken his advice. thought he had seen lest I to say so something move. at the I same time covering the dark object as well as . silently reconnoitring our Presently stealthily to I fancied us. persuaded me to remain I where I was . of fact. and accordingly we were listening in the expectation of hearing the lion force his way out through the bushes with his prey. I saw something coming very I towards feared. my eyes. but was afraid .in THE ATTACK ON THE GOODS-WAGON At this juncture I I 39 proposed to my companion should get out of the wagon and lie on the ground close to it. the doorway had not been properly and while we were wondering what the lion could be doing inside the boma for so long. Orders had been given for the entrance to the boma to be blocked up. too. so under my breath I asked Brock whether he saw anything.

he would undoubtedly have got one of us. Thus ended my the man-eaters. off in As was. probably blinded by the flash and frightened by the noise of the double report which was increased a hundred- by the reverberation of the hollow iron roof of Had we not been very much on the the truck. for in another second the brute would assuredly have landed inside the wagon. then with a sudden bound a huge body sprang at us. inch or two. he must have swerved his spring. Mine was nowhere first to be found. After this there was intense " silence again " ! for a second or two. and we realised that we had had a very lucky and very narrow escape.40 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO fire CH. The next morning we found Brock's bullet embedded have in the could not sand close to a footprint it missed the lion by more than an . direct encounter with one of . fold alert. in should and it turn out to be nothing after all. The lion I shouted. and we too both fired almost simultaneously not a moment it soon.

rock-drillers to work at once and soon had ample room made unimpeded. line. which had been left ajar. I . another gang of men were laying the foundations of a girder bridge which was to span for all traffic to pass was going . While this on. it This was the widening of a rock cutting through which the railway ran just before reached the river. In the hurry of pushing on the laying of the just enough to allow of the rock had originally been cut away an engine to pass. and consequently any material which happened to project outside the wagons or trucks caught on the jagged for room myself saw the door of a guard's van. smashed to atoms in this way and accordingly I put a gang of faces of the cutting.CHAPTER IV THE BUILDING OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE troublesome period the construction of the railway had been going steadily forward all this DURING and the first important piece of work which arrival I had commenced on was completed.

it. and this meant some very pleasant work me in taking levels up the banks of the river under the cool shade of the palms. when a river friend was available I was delightful. the gully Then. also. When little it was finished. This would have taken too long to erect when rail- head was round to the side. a water supply had to be established for . ting to work with our axes. Setbuilt. a gully between this cutting and Tsavo Station. I often camp-kit with me. and the permanent way laid on an easy grade. so a diversion had been made the temporary track leading down almost bed of the nullah and up again on the further When the foundations and abutments were was spanned by an iron girder. the slopes leading up to it banked up on either side. at the place. and a luncheon served with occasionally a friend to share it in the wilds. ready. so when our work my should build a raft companion suggested that we and float down-stream home. I feasibility of the was rather doubtful of the scheme. The day had been exceedingly hot and tired we were both correspondingly finished.42 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. but nevertheless he decided to give it a trial. we soon had a raft lashing the poles together with the fibre which grows in abundance all over the it district. we pushed out of the backwater . took my While doing this. On one occasion in particular. went a long way up the my was and was accompanied by a young member of staff.

Superintending the various works and a hundred other duties kept me busy all day long. while my . none the worse for [THE AUTHOR. c.] : [MR. helped my to of possible crocodiles. moment my time was fully occupied.] A LUNCHEON SERVED IN THE WILDS. and the young All went well until it got engineer jumped aboard.iv THE BUILDING OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE it 43 had been constructed. where out into midstream." his ducking. it when much I promptly toppled gracefully friend to scramble quickly up the bank out of reach my amusement over. RAWSON. he laughed as heartily as I at the adventure. Except every for an occasional relaxation of of this sort. WITH OCCASIONALLY A FRIEND TO SHARE IT. when.

44 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. and low levels had to be found. evenings were given up to settling disputes the coolies. despair of finding one and was began about to resort to pile-driving. and the necessary calculations made. I These having at length been marked out the positions for the piers. sections of the river had to be taken. Then we found we had to sink much deeper than foundation. when at last. the rate of the flood. hearing reports the various among jemadars and complaints from and workpeople. completed. we struck solid rock on foundation-stones could be laid with perfect safety. and in Preparations. and had to be dammed particular up and pumped dry again before work could be resumed. These involved much work on my part cross and oblique . the sinking went on and on. for the principal piece of work the river building of the railway bridge over the Tsavo were going personal on apace. current and the volume of water at all mean. abutments and caused a great deal of trouble. to my which the huge relief. Another great difficulty with which we had to contend was the absence of suitable stone in the neighbourhood. until I we expected to in order to reach a solid Indeed. as the river broke in several times. in the district studying the Swahili language. It was not that there was none to . and the work of sinking their The two centre piers in foundations was begun. too.

spent many a weary day trudging through the thorny wilderness vainly searching for suitable material. I among the bushes. There bird.hunting. and which was exactly the kind of which I had long been fruitlessly was greatly delighted with my unexpected discovery. and being a first-rate shot had quickly bagged a brace.iv THE BUILDING OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE district 45 be found. made a round them so that Brock. crouching down among the ferns." cackling hearing I some guinea-fowl circuit half in his shot. to and was beginning think that we should be forced to use iron columns for the piers. " stumbled quite by Brock and I were out I pot. another chance. which extended for some distance. when one day and accident on the very thing. for Brock had got to work. and on examination found that the bank of the ravine was formed of stone. had scarcely time to load when over flew a which I missed badly and I did not have I . though at first I had grave misgivings about the distance to be traversed and the difficulty of transporting the stone across the . was so intensely hard as to be almost impossible to work. on getting should drive them over in my direction. for I material searching. Meanwhile I felt the ground very hard under my knee. and a bridge built of it would I have been very costly. eventually got into position on the edge of a deep ravine and knelt on one knee. for the whole but that it abounds in rock.

Terrified it of the men.46 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO Indeed. to I set men cut work at once to down the jungle and prepare a road on which to lay the double trolley line. I CHAP. tram line right throwing a the temporary bridge across the Tsavo. the a basket over it jemadar. One morning when they were thus engaged. the next piece of work was the building of the two . that the only found in the end way of getting the material to the place where it was wanted was by laying down a along the ravine. table jump upon my hand. where it very soon became a great pet. indeed. Accordingly. who promptly dropped it and held fast. and confused by the shouting ran straight at Shere Shah. a little paa a kind of very " small antelope IT sprang out VERY SOON BECAME A GREAT PET _" and round in i r i suddenly the midst of a gang ir itself 111 of coolies. to save the graceful little animal's and took it home to my camp. following stream down and re-crossing it again close to the site of the permanent bridge. grew so tame that it would at meal times and eat from my When the road for the trolley line was cleared. I happened it to arrive just in time life. intervening country.

iv THE BUILDING OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE river. and trollies were soon plying backwards and also forwards with loads of stone and sand. 47 temporary bridges over the in the These we made roughest fashion out of palm trees and logs felled at the crossing places.RA SINGH MADE A WILD SPRING INTO THE WATER TO GET CLEAR OF THE FALLING STONE. however. An amusing day when I was taking a photograph of an enormous block of stone which incident occurred one . this did not occur until the permanent work was completed. they would. of course. The whole of HEF. and had a flood come down away ." this feeding line was finished in a very short time. as discovered quality in we the the latter in abundance and of good bed of the ravine. have both been swept fortunately.

the slightest. heavy load required head mason. As the trolley with its very careful manipulation. trolley which. pushed by two sturdy Pathans. came to the sharp incline which led to the log bridge . my Singh. superintended the gangs of men who hauled the ropes at either end in order to steady it up and down the inclines. It rest fled as for their lives to sight. and the stone was recovered undamaged with but little trouble. while Purshotam and the the bank. the rails tilted up and over went the as I whole thing into the picture. Heera direct Purshotam Hurjee. But we did not know that the in stream had succeeded washing away the foundaand as the weight tions of one of the log supports of the trolley with the stone came on the under. Not long after this occurrence my own labours were one day nearly brought to a sudden and unI was travelling along in an empty pleasant end. was being hauled across one of these temporary bridges. no one was injured in the operation. was Presently we returning to the quarry for sand. was altogether a most comical at the very I and an extraordinary chance that of the accident moment should be taking a photograph of Fortunately.48 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. mined pier. river. stood on the top of the stone to operations. just snapped the into the Heera Singh made a wild spring to water get clear of the falling if stone. while the overseer.

thought it was better to stick to it than to risk there . to step on to it and to let its own momentum take it down the it Here speed when necessary by a brake in the shape of a pole. the pole was by some accident dropped overboard. just missing by a hair's breadth a projecting beam but luckily I landed on a sand bank at the side of the s . dull was happily .iv THE BUILDING OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE river. A first moment afterwards I felt myself over the edge of the bridge. which one of them carried and by which the wheels could be locked. This accident. and flew without brake of any kind. the heavy trolley falling clear of also. down Near the hill we the bridge was a sharp curve in the line. unattended by injury to anyone. slope. however. leaping off. moderating its On this occasion. where I was I afraid the trolley would jump the rails still. instead of running. 49 over the was the custom of the men.beside the trolley. me with a thud close by. flying head river.

I had discovered the stone for the bridge.CHAPTER V TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN IT seemed fated that the building of the Tsavo peace Bridge should never be allowed to proceed for in any length of time. I imme- diately instituted a system of piece-work. to I sent down dress to the coast for gangs of it. masons sent work and for this The men who were me purpose were mostly Pathans and were supposed to be expert workmen but I soon found that many . On discovering this fact. than other troubles. of them had not the faintest notion of stone-cutting. arose with the workmen themselves. and were simply ordinary coolies who had posed as masons in order to draw forty-five instead of twelve rupees a month. have already described and no sooner did the beasts of prey appear to have deserted us. no less After serious. I our troubles with the lions . and drew up a scale of pay which would enable the genuine . for the time being at any rate.

knew had demanded only a perfectly that of work from each man. which lay Presently a only a few hundred yards away. Now. E 2 . the impostors in the majority . was dusk One particularly serious disturbance of this sort I a rather amusing sequel. sitting after one evening at the door of my hut. men I lying stretched had carried up to my own boma on charpoys and Brock being away. I had to play (native beds) These . I had no intention of doing. however. I fair amount These masons were continually having quarrels and fights amongst themselves. I ran back with him at once and but found seven badly out on the ground. in the hope of me I to This. were greatly and accordingly they attempted to intimidate the remainder into coming down to their own standard as regards output of thereby inducing abandon the piece-work system of payment. jemadar came rushing up to me to say that the men were all fighting and murdering each other with sticks and stones. as work. as is often the case in this world. v TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN to earn his forty-five rupees a mason a little month and more if he felt inclined and would cut down the impostors to about their proper pay as coolies. and I had frequently to go down to their camp to quell disturbances and had to separate the Hindus from the Mohammedans. succeeded injured in restoring order.CH. when I heard a great commotion in the masons' camp.

when the head jemadar came and informed me that the man was not hurt at all. About eleven I o'clock that night was called up and asked on to go down to the masons' to camp I to see a man who was supposed be dying. and accord- him that I would send him to the hospital line) Voi (about thirty miles down the to be attended to properly. groaning grievously all the time. On to I hearing this. got some brandy and ran down to the camp. stitching one and bandaging another and generally doing what was There was one man. go to Voi in the special train with the others but had not heard the last of him yet. Scarcely had he been removed. among I the men. concluded that he must have received some ingly told at internal injury. groaned loudly and held a cloth over his face as On lifting this covering. the doctor myself as best could. in order to escape the punishment which he knew he would receive if I discovered that he was the instigator of the trouble. his He was then carried back to camp. I gave instructions that he was not . I found he were dying. and that as a matter of fact he was the sole cause of the disturbance. He was now pretending to be badly injured. at once pulled my boots. examined him I but as could discover nothing amiss. where . however. who possible. who if was well known to I me as a prime mischief-maker carefully.52 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO I CHAP. him to be a certain mason called Karim Bux.

"foxing. knew quite well that he was only shamming." but I when he asked dawa him gravely that I would give him some very good dawa in the morning. Next day at noon when it was my custom to told have evil-doers brought up for judgment Karim Bux. I lifted the blanket with which he had covered himself and he had no thoroughly examined him. I then got a big armful of shavings from a carpenter's bench which was close by. I could see. and carefully covered him up again. but was told that he was too I I asked for ill to walk. accordingly ordered him to be carried to in my boma. put them under the bed and set fire to . was placed on the ground near me. also a score or so of his friends hanging of doubtless waiting in the expectation When the bed seeing the "Sahib" hoodwinked.\\e pulling the blanket over his head. at the same time feeling him to make sure that fever. There were around. \. as jemadar had said pure budmashi (devilment) I told him that I was going to give him some very effective dawa. and a few moments he arrived in his charpoy. that for he was only (medicine).v TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN I 53 my surprise and amusement my friend Karim Bux who was was perfectly evident to me to found that it was It at death's door. He pretended to be desperately ill and again asked for dawa but having finally satisfied myself that it was . which was shouldered by four coolies who.

pursued by a Sikh sepoy. the scene changed like magic each man simply flew to his particular work. for the man-eaters during the Coming unexpectedly to find on the was amazed dead silence reigning stretched out in the it I and my rascals of workmen all shade under the trees taking sleeping. watched little their pro- ceedings through the bushes for a while. who got in a couple of good whacks on his shoulders with a stout stick before he effected his escape. later in never had any He came back imploring the day. as he was a few days after this incident I was returning home one morning from a tree in which I had been A keeping previous quarry. I Sahib!" ("Well done. he . which clever workman. very easy some and by some playing cards. and further trouble with Karim Bux.54 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO As soon as the CHAP. and hammers . I watch night. fright then firing it occurred to rifle me to give them a my over their heads. His amused comrades greeted me with shouts of " Shabash. and like a deer to the entrance of my boma. On the report : being heard. sir!"). them. sham invalid felt the heat. peeped over the edge of the blanket and when he saw the smoke and flame leaping up round him. he threw the blanket from him. sprang from the bed " exclaiming devil ! Beiman fled skaitan!" ("Unbelieving "). with I clasped hands forgiveness. readily granted.

had been silence a moment before. I Unfortu- had been carrying a rifle and not a shot gun. when the masons realised that fair intended to make each man do a day's work for his this money. so that they achieved by this elaborate tissue of falsehood to bring on themselves the derision of their comrades and the imposition of an extra fine. was Shortly after I this. and unconvincing narrathey had actually induced one of their fellow to workmen make a few holes like shot holes in their backs. however. that was still some distance as off I and had not seen them. who had thus shown himself utterly unfit for his position. and these were bleeding profusely. I man then proceeded to my hut. besides summarily degrading the Headman. In order to give a semblance of truth to an otherwise bald tive. but had scarcely arrived there when two of the scoundrels tottered up after me. bent almost double and calling Heaven to witness that I had shot them both in the back. of course. and they had also forgotten to make corresponding all holes in their clothing. fined every present heavily. they came to the conclusion that the best thing to do would be to .v TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN chisels all 55 and where resounded merrily and energetically. They I thought. I shouted to them that they were too for I had some time. and would allow nothing to prevent intention from being carried out. but been watching them to their consternation late. nately for them.

crept cautiously out of the bushes and warned my me asking him the reason. put Accordingly they held a meeting one night. I was aroused by one of the conspirators. and affixed his finger-mark to a long strip of cheerful proposal every man paper as a binding token. As I reached a bend the head mason. all CHAP. where of course would soon be devoured by wild beasts. who had crept into my camp to give me warning. as at this stage of affairs morning really all I did not believe that they carrying out such a diabolical were capable of scheme. but that he and not to proceed. however. he said that he dared not tell.56 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO me quietly out of the way. and was rather inclined to think that the informant had been sent merely to frighten me. Within an hour after the meeting had dispersed. present at the meeting agreed. Heera Singh. being sworn to secrecy. and then they were to say To this that I had been killed and eaten by a lion. that I and to after a long palaver it was arranged I was be murdered next day when the quarry. I thanked him for his information. a very good man. made my to be usual visit to My body was it thrown into the jungle. lonely quarry. to On my twenty other masons were not going work that . but determined to go to the quarry in the the same. Accordingly the next morning (September 6) started off as usual along the trolley line in I to the line.

jemadar. and asked me if I would further felt go and see them. he went so far as to I point out the two men who. and As soon felt that there was something in the wind. thought I would see the adventure through. so there would be no escape still I accompanied the jemadar up the gully. a treacherous-looking that informed me men working I refused to obey his up the ravine had orders. as they were afraid of trouble at the quarry. did not matter whom in he complained pocket-book in of. . All the everything seemed perfectly peaceful. but I laughingly assured him there would be no trouble and continued on my way. On my arrival at the thing the story quarry. with gangs in narrow part of the ravine. this in I At began to I think that there was some- had heard overnight. had refused to do what he as I told suppose he thought that it was never to leave the place alive. and Immediately a yell of rage was raised by the whole body of some sixty men. When we got to the further gang. but after a moment or two I noticed stealthy side glances. device to lure at once that this was a me into the where.v TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN 57 clay. front of me and behind me. men were working away busily. the villain. as I came up the to the first gang of workmen. I noted their names my my usual manner. whatever came of it. he them I said. answered by a similar shout from those I had turned to retrace my steps. .

for I stood at still. I am certain that I should As it was. The that habit of obedience held them. . and threw him closely from in. I stepped quickly aside. carrying crowbars and flourishing their heavy hammers. brute.58 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO passed. waiting them to act. of which I quickly took advantage. I told them about their plot to murder me. and before they had time to recover themI selves I had started haranguing them still I in Hindustani. and the man intended to knock me down was himself thrown violently against a rock. This occasioned a moment's confusion. to deal a blow. afraid to be the first . both wrists I easily wrenched . my arms I free. then closed in on me in the narrow part of the ravine. and one man rushed '' me. me but by this time was hemmed and everywhere I looked I could see nothing One burly but evil and murderous-looking faces. hurled if the in man next him at me and he had succeeded knocking me down. over which he fell heavily. and CHAP. first who numbered about a hundred. and fortun- ately they listened to I what had to say. but that was his exact expression. sprang on to the top of the rock. however. many of them would assuredly be knew all . Both groups of men. and but that they could certainly do so if they wished that if they did. never have got up again alive. seizing and shouting out that he was going my to "be hung and shot for me rather a curious way of putting it.

v TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN for it. and instantly crowd was raised. jumped down from the rock and if continued my rounds as nothing had happened. called return to work to upon those who were willing to hold up their hands. and might he not be an even harder task- master the ? They all knew it that I was just and fair to was only the scoundrels and shirkers who had anything to fear from me. 59 hanged as the Sirkar (Government) would soon find out the truth and would disbelieve their story that that I I had been carried quite well that it off knew by a lion. Even supposing they were to carry out their plan of killing " " Sahib at once be set over me. would not another them. I every hand that for the in the then felt moment I the victory was mine. I felt a little more secure. I said was only one or two to to allow scoundrels among them who had induced them stupidly. while I if the others I resumed work and would Finally heard of no further plotting. were upright. and after dismissing them. of their take I no notice foolish conduct. behave so and urged them not fools of in this themselves to be made way. measuring a stone here and there and commenting . self-respecting Pathans going to allow themselves to be led away by men of that kind? Once having got them to listen to me. and real worker . and I accordingly went on to say that the discontented among them would be allowed to return at once to Mombasa.

and I was never again troubled with mutinous workmen. Crawford. however. who were taken to Mombasa and Consul. tried before full Mr. sentenced to various terms of imprisonment in the chain-gangs. and also to the District Officer. who immediately marched his road to my assistance. certain in a very un- mood. Mr. roll. who also told me that he was afraid to held. to Tsavo. another meeting being and a fresh plot made to murder me during Of this I was soon informed by my the night. Two or three days after- wards the Railway Police arrived and arrested the ringleaders in the mutiny. Whitehead. unfortunately. time-keeper. . safe and sullen and sound.60 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO They were still CH. for The danger was scarcely had I turned my back to go home when the mutiny broke out again. go out and call the At kill him also. v on the work done. indeed. so it was with feelings of great relief that an hour later I made my way back. prompt action alone saved me from being attacked that very night. not yet past. the British when the details of the plots to murder me were unfolded by one of them who turned Queen's All the scoundrels were found guilty and evidence. that his men I twenty-five miles by have no doubt. as they had threatened to further outrage I this lost no time in telegraphing for the Railway Police. and not at all to be relied upon.

I fright the night in the sat up in wait for them goods- for they kept molest us in away from Tsavo and did not any way for some considerable time long after Brock had left me and gone on safari (a caravan journey) to Uganda. In this breathing space which they vouchsafed us.CHAPTER VI THE REIGN OF TERROR THE lions seemed to have got a bad Brock and wagon. it not. the lions would be quite daring enough to enter it in search of them to to and thus be caught. pieces of telegraph wire. until occurred to me that should they renew their attacks. strong trap out of wooden tram-rails. and that if I could construct one in which a couple of coolies might be used as bait without being subjected to any danger. heavy chain. and in a short time managed sufficiently work at make a sleepers. It and a length of was divided into two compart- . in fact. I accordingly set once. a trap would perhaps offer the best chance of getting at them.

A sliding door at one end admitted the former. ments men and one for the lion.62 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO one for the CHAP. compartment they were perfectly as between them and the lion. of course. This part of the contrivance was arranged in the . The door which was to admit the lion was. ran a cross wall of iron only three in inches apart. was not necessary for the lion to seize the bait in order to send the door clattering down. but otherwise the whole thing was very much on except that the it principle of the ordinary rat-trap. at the opposite end of the structure. and once inside safe." heavy wooden sleepers. and embedded both top and bottom "THE DOOR WHICH WAS TO ADMIT THE LION. if he entered this rails the other.

. and in an instant down would come the door behind him in . and which abutted against the top of the doorway when turn lifted up. lot making which cost us a of work. so as to enable It be fastened by the wire to the chain. occurred to me. . which to in was kept in its place by a wire fastened end and passing down to a spring concealed ground inside the cage. the ends hanging down and opening . short lengths of rails placed about six inches apart. that a hard-nosed bullet would penetrate the iron. he would be bound to his weight on this would on the spring release the wire. strongly secured by stout wire. however. we were them from to rather at a loss for want of tools to bore holes in the rails for the doorway. The door was of a piece of held in this position by a lever made rail. tread one in the As soon as the lion entered sufficiently far into the trap. ground. any way. as In it fell and he could not push it out into a groove between two in the rails firmly embedded this trap. and on making the experiment I was glad to find that a hole was made as cleanly as if it had been punched my '303 out. TERROR 63 following A heavy chain was lion's secured along the top part of the doorway.THE REIGN OF manner. This made a sort of flexible door which could be packed into a small space when not in use.vi . to the to ground on either side of the these were fastened.

was left I open The wiseacres to whom showed my invention were generally of the opinion that the man-eaters would be too cunning to walk into my parlour but. One small for made back of the enclosure the men. i PITCHED A TEXT OVER IT. was ready I pitched a tent over it in order further to deceive the lions. but nothing happened except that had . pulling a bush after them . as will be seen later. which they were to close on going in by." just in front of the door of the cage for the lions. and another entrance "WHEN THE TRAP WAS READY. and built an exceedingly entrance was strong boma at the round it.THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO When the trap CHAP. For the first few nights I baited the I trap myself. proved false. their predictions .

On this occasion a number of men had been sleeping At last outside their tents for the sake of coolness. terror-sticken cries and screams awoke the camps. of course. it was some months before the lions attacked us again. Not long after our night in the goods- wagon. when suddenly in the middle of the night one of the brutes F . however. and we knew that the " demons" had returned and had commenced a new list of victims. this latter place was again visited by the brutes. and life in the camps returned to its normal we were suddenly startled out of this One dark night the familiar feeling of security. resumed all their usual habits and occupations. we at Tsavo enjoyed complete immunity from attack. two more men being seized. two men were carried off from railhead. and the other so badly mauled that he died within a few days. As time a matter of fact. As I have said. routine. though from time to we heard of their depredations in other quarters. and the coolies. one of whom was killed and eaten. about ten miles away. that the lions had gone for good. time. while another was taken from a place called EngoWithin a very short mani.vi THE REIGN OF TERROR 65 a very sleepless and uncomfortable time. believing that their dreaded foes had permanently deserted the district. and was badly bitten by mosquitoes. thinking.

66 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. and so daring had the shrieks of his two brutes become that they did not trouble to carry their victim any further away. and the next morning I learned that the lions had attacked another camp about two miles from Tsavo for by this time the camps were again scattered. lion hurled in the avail. The alarm was at once given. and sticks. direction of the All into was of no the however. they took no notice of these and did not attempt to move I until their horrible meal that was finished. Although several shots were fired in their direction coolie by the jemadar of the gang to which the belonged. hoping that the lions would return and on the chance to the spot the following night . . was discovered forcing its way through the boma. however. of this I took up tree. but devoured him within thirty yards of the tent where he had been seized. stones and firebrands were intruder. and dragged him off He was joined through the thick thorn fence. The few scattered fragments to remained of the body would not allow be buried at once. my station at nightfall in a con- venient Nothing occurred to break I the monotony of a visit my watch. as I had works in There the progress all up and down the line. for the midst of the terrified group. except that had from a hysena. outside by the second lion. seized an unfortunate wretch amid the cries and burst companions.

I After this occurrence. but I felt man me a that it was a duty that had to be undertaken. bhaieon. forced their way through the bomas without making a noise was. but the warning . Yet they conthrough at all. as for protection. an animal to get tinually did so. that the completely ceased. Either the lions saw me and then went elsewhere. they How they camp. Shouts would then pass from camp " camp. watching was most dreary and fatiguing work. sat up every night for over a week near likely camps. the devil coming"). Khabar dar. and without a sound being heard. the to previous the instance. the Once they reached roars camps. or else I was unlucky. and still is. successful in obtaining a whom. a mystery to me I should have thought that it was next to impossible for devoured quite close . the men naturally looked to me In the whole of my life I have never experienced anyto thing more nerve-shaking than nearer. and to to hear the deep roars of these dreadful monsters nearer and know growing gradually that some one or other of us was doomed be their victim before the vicinity of morning dawned. is shaitan ata (" Beware. for they took man after from different places without ever once giving This constant night chance of a shot at them. and stalking for we knew " they were their to prey. but all in vain. F 2 brothers.vi THE REIGN OF TERROR had been as in 67 man-eaters victim.

I have a very vivid recollection of one particular . civil. As a had come up with the lions on any of these expeditions. and the lions always seemed capable of avoiding the watchers. it seemed and the lions were really life. and several to officers naval and military came Tsavo from the coast and sat up night after night in order to get a shot at our daring All of us. as everything would have I been in their favour. I spent many a weary day crawling on my hands and knees through the dense undergrowth of the exasperating wilderness around us. and was soon at wits' if my as end to know what " to do " . too. had many helpers. however. About this time. met with the same lack of foes. would prove of no avail. devils after all bore a charmed As I have said before. ing them through the jungle was a hopeless task but as something had to be done to keep up the men's spirits. I in was naturally very disheartened at being foiled this way night after night. and sooner or agonising shrieks would break the silence cries later and next another man would be missing from roll-call morning. if I of victims than that killing I should have succeeded in either of them. it was much more likely that they would have added me to their list matter of fact. success. track.68 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. while succeeding at the same time in obtaining a victim.

rememcamp. while the other waited outside in the bush but they began to change the bomas together and each seizing a victim. . foraging. and the sound of their dreadful purring the air and rang in my ears for days afterwards. only one of the man-eaters had made the attack and had done the . From and worse. as of course the poor was dead. man had been lying ill in their and on making enquiry I found that they had I immediately took callously left him behind alone. entering In .vi THE REIGN OF TERROR when the brutes seized a 69 night man from to the railway to station and brought him I close my camp devour. had died of shock at being deserted by his this companions. Some half a dozen enclosure close to workmen. who mine. some men with me entering his tent that I to bring him to my boma. The terrible thing was to feel so helpless it was useless to attempt to fellow go out. but on He saw by the light of the lantern the poor fellow was beyond need of safety. and in addition it was so pitch it dark as to make impossible to see anything. but soon afterwards bered that one my I boma. now their tactics. became so lived in a small terrified on hear- ing the lions at their meal that they shouted and implored me to allow them to come inside This I willingly did. could plainly hear them crunching the filled bones. time matters gradually became worse Hitherto. as a rule.

but so terribly mauled that he died before he could be got to the hospital. this last way two Swahili porters were killed during the week of November. one being immediately and devoured. He was still alive when I saw him next morning. they found him stuck "THEY FOUND HIM STUCK FAST IN THE BUSHES OF THE Boma" bushes of the boma. through which for once the lion had apparently 'been unable to drag him.7o THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. and when his terrified com- panions at last summoned up sufficient courage to go fast in the to his assistance. carried off The other was heard moaning for a long time. Within a few days of this the two brutes made a most ferocious attack on the largest camp in the .

Mr. we After examining the spot at once set out to follow the Mr. and were greeted with Cautiously advancing and pushing the bushes aside. fired over fifty shots Inspector. After some careful stalking." as the brutes carried off their unfortunate victim and camp. in the direction in which he heard the lions. Dalgairns. but they were not to be frightened and calmly lay there until began their feast close beside the The their in meal was finished. The one arm and half the body had been eaten. we saw cub . ominous growlings. as there was a trail on the brutes. stricken cries of " could plainly hear the paniccoolies. the morning. workmen. sake was situated within a close to stone's throw of Tsavo Station and a in Permanent Way Inspector's iron hut. and was the stiff fingers of the other arm trailing along . . we suddenly found ourselves in the vicinity of the lions. to be the the remains unfortunate which man-eaters had legs. it evidently abandoned at our approach. showed coolie. Dalgairns feeling confident that he had wounded one of them.vi THE REIGN OF TERROR which for safety's 71 section. in the gloom what of the we at first took to be a it lion closer inspection. shrieking of the Then followed They've taken him horrible they've taken him. however. Suddenly the dead of night the two man-eaters burst in the terrified among boma. sand like that of the toes of a broken limb. and even from 1 my some distance away.

72 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO left CHAP. they flocked my boma . to find on my return to that to to same afternoon (December i) the men had all struck work and were waiting camp that speak to me. the sand which had the marks lion. the railway for stopped ." delivered this ultimatum than a regular stampede took place. therefore. they After this from the accursed spot. in a body and stated that they would not remain at Tsavo any longer for anything or any- body they had come from India on an agreement to work for the Government. not to supply food for No sooner had they either lions or "devils. and works were completely the next three weeks practically nothing was done but build "lion-proof" huts for . we had taken By this to be the trail of a wounded to time the it beasts had retired far into the thick jungle where was impossible follow them. swarming on of trucks Some hundreds to the and throwing fled in their possessions anyhow. not stand constant district terrors of this sort indefinitely. and I was not at all surprised. first rails them stopped the passing train by throwing themselves on the in front of the engine. will much less the ordinary Indian coolie. The whole was by this time thoroughly panic-stricken. Now the bravest men in the world. When I sent for them. and then. so we had the remains of the coolie buried and once more returned home disappointed.

was a strange and amusing sight these shelters perched on the top of water-tanks. covering the top over with heavy logs of wood. Every good-sized tree in . "PERCHED ON THE TOP OF WATER-TANKS. into roofs which they descended at night.VI THE REIGN OF TERROR workmen who had had It 73 those sufficient courage to to see remain." and girders anywhere for safety while some even went so far as to dig pits inside their tents.

and the brutes were too busy devouring him attention to anything else. Fortu- nately for them.74 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO camp had that CH. vi the as many beds bear lashed on to it as its I branches would and sometimes more. a victim had already been secured. hurling remember one night its terror-stricken load of shrieking coolies close to the very lions they were trying to avoid. so many men swarmed on to one particular tree that down it came with a crash. when the camp was attacked. to pay .

to had written Mr. Whitehead. the "boy" camp. as by this time the coolies never remarkable for bravery were in such a . He replied accepting the invitation. asking him to come up and assist paign against the lions. but that an enormous lion was standing on the This extraordinary story I did station platform. not believe in the least. which His turned out to be the day after the exodus. train was due I at Tsavo about six o'clock in the evening. however. so sent my "boy" up to the station to meet him and to help in carrying his baggage to the In a very short time. and told me to expect him about dinner-time on December 2. and informed me that there was no sign of the train or of the railway staff. the District Officer. me in my cam- and to bring with him any of his askaris (native soldiers) that he could spare. rushed back trembling with terror.CHAPTER VII THE DISTRICT OFFICER'S NARROW ESCAPE SOME I little time before the flight of the workmen.

as he did not put in an appearance. I waited some little time for Mr. and my had position in a crib built made of sleepers which which I I on a big girder close to a camp Soon thought was likely to be attacked. or a baboon. they were state of fright that sure to imagine it was a lion . as I was surprised to and purring and had heard no commotion bitter in the camps. as state. The only conclusion I could come to was that they had pounced upon some poor un- . but I eventually. rifles During the meal I heard a but paid no attention to them.76 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO if CHAP. Later in the evening. I hear the man-eaters growling crunching up bones about seventy yards from the I could not understand what crib. they caught sight of a hyaena. concluded that he must have postponed his journey until the next day. they had found to eat. or even a dog. and that both stationmaster and signalman had been obliged to take refuge from one of the man-eaters by locking themselves in the station building. I went out as usual took up to watch for our elusive foes. and so had my dinner in my customary solitary couple of shots. in the bush. were constantly being fired off in the neighbourhood of the camp. after settling down at my post. but I found out next day that it was an actual fact. and experience that every meal the brutes obtained from us was announced by shrieks I knew by and uproar. Whitehead.

devouring and to retire quietly over a slight "I TOOK UP MY POSITION IN A CRIB MADE OF SLEEPERS. as it was daylight. and in the took as careful aim as was possible . I got out of I my crib and went towards the place where had I last heard On the way. There they As soon them. . Whitehead. and generally dishevelled. to I After a time was able make out their eyes glowing in the darkness. Mr." which prevented me from seeing them. circum- stances and fired the but the only notice they paid to carry off shot was to whatever they were rise. finished their meal at their ease. looking very pale and ill. whom should meet but my missing guest.vii DISTRICT OFFICER'S NARROW ESCAPE I 77 suspecting native traveller.

have you come from?" I exclaimed. I and bathed and dressed wounds and when more comfortable. his sergeant of askaris. showing red and angry through the torn cloth. nearly did for " it ! infernal lion of yours me last night. For answer he turned round and showed me back. you must have dreamed cried astonishment. I hurried his him . so that it was quite dark when he arrived at Tsavo Station." was " I his only reply." said Whitehead. All went well until they were He about half-way through the gloomy . His clothing was rent by one huge tear from the nape of the neck downwards.78 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO "Where on earth CHAP. off to my I tent. I " in Nonsense. That what's up ? asked. from which the track to small cutting. and on the flesh there were four great claw marks. It had made him considerably got from him the whole story of the events of the night. " is it ? he asked. " " Why. " " Why didn't you turn up to dinner last night " ? A nice reception you give a fellow when you invite him to dinner. Without further parley. " his That's not much of a dream. who walked close behind him carrying a lighted lamp. my camp lay through a was accompanied by Abdullah. appeared that his train was very late.

he had his carbine with him. As the lion was dragging him over fired again. and instantly fired. suddenly jumped down upon them from Whitehead over in high bank. . lion a second or two. whom he at once made All that the poor fellow could say Master. The flash and the loud report must have dazed the the manner had WHITEHEAD ON A TROLLEY AT THE EXACT SPOT WHERE THE LION JUMPED UPON HIM. and tearing his back seen. enabling Whitehead to disengage himself.vii DISTRICT OFFICER'S when one of the like I NARROW ESCAPE lions 79 cutting. but the next instant the brute for like lightning pounced with on the unfortunate Abdullah. Bwana. off. was: "Eh. "). Whitehead but without effect. simba" ("Oh. however. a lion the bank. knocking a ninepin. the Fortunately.

On the same day. Whitehead himself had a marvellous escape his wounds were happily not very deep. the night. and little caused him or no inconvenience afterwards. It into the darkness this was. and the brute quickly disappeared with his prey.8o THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. . 3. of course. lions unfortunate man whom I had heard the devouring during ABDULLAH AND HIS TWO WIVES. December the forces arrayed .

as bait. however. Mr. the Superintendent of Police. when to great satisfaction and we my the intense stillness was suddenly broken by the noise of the door of the "At last. Instead of doing so. Mr. preparations were quite complete by nightall took up our appointed positions. and were each armed with a with plenty of ammunition. rifle." But the sequel was an ignominious one. and cautions were taken." I thought. The Martini bait-sepoys had a lamp burning inside their part of the cage. Several other officials had also come up on leave to join in the chase. They had also been given strict orders to shoot at once if a lion should enter the trap. "one trap clattering down. they were so terrified when he rushed Q in .vii DISTRICT OFFICER'S NARROW ESCAPE 81 against the lions were further strengthened. my trap was put in thorough installed working order. lion inside the crib Further. whose fame had by this time the most elaborate pre- spread far and wide. Nothing happened until about nine o'clock. at least of the brutes is done for. his men being posted on the most convenient trees near every camp. and each of these guarded a likely spot in the same way. arrived from the coast with a score of sepoys to assist in hunting down the man-eaters. Whitehead sharing my post on the girder. in spite of some chaff. and two of the sepoys were Our fall. Farquhar.

but though we heard their growls from time to time. and yet their bullets came whizzing all round us. Then when at last they did begin to they fired with a vengeance anywhere. was small consolation to know that the certain. Still we were came. Altogether they fired over a score of shots. some blood scattered about the trap. Of the . a me. but it and always will be. whose post was close by. There was. minutes not. anyhow. thus allowing our How they failed to prize to make good his escape. Whitehead and I were at right angles to the direction in which they should have shot. and began madly against the bars of the cage. kill him several times over complete mystery to muzzles of their rifles absolutely touching his body.82 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO to lash himself CHAP. whose capture and death seemed so had only been slightly wounded. we never succeeded in actually coming up with them. and in the end succeeded only in blowing away one of the bars of the door. shouted at them and cheered them on did they at all recover themselves. until Mr. indeed. that they completely lost their heads and Not for some were actually too unnerved to fire. brute. Accordingly we spent the greater part of the day on our hands and knees following the lions through the dense thickets of thorny jungle. indeed. Farquhar. and when hunt was at once arranged. fire. as they could have put the is. a not morning unduly dejected.

Two and days more were spent with equal in . G 2 . unsuccess and Farquhar and his sepoys were obliged to return to Mr. only Farquhar managed to catch a momentary glimpse of one as it bounded over a bush. Whitehead also departed for his the coast.vii DISTRICT OFFICER'S NARROW ESCAPE 83 whole party. and once again I was left alone with the man-eaters. the same then manner. A PARTY OF \VA JAMOUSI. district.

I devoutly hoped. Now was my I chance ! rushed for the heavy rifle which Farquhar had kindly left with me for use in case an opportunity such as this should arise. were I confining attention strictly to their meal. led by the Swahili. was leaving my boma soon after dawn on December 9. I started most carefully to stalk the lions. and. On questioning him I found that ! the lions had tried to snatch a man from the camp by the river. when unfortunately my . I saw a Swahili running excitedly ! " towards me. their who. and every now and again looking behind him as he ran. shouting out " Simba ! Simba / (" Lion Lion "). and were at that moment busy devouring it not far off. and could just was getting on splendidly. make out the outline of one of them through the dense bush. but being foiled in this had seized and killed one of the donkeys.CHAPTER VIII THE DEATH OF THE FIRST MAN-EATER A as I DAY or two after the departure of my allies.

CH. vin

DEATH OF THE

FIRST

MAN-EATER

85

The wily beast guide snapped a rotten branch. heard the noise, growled his defiance, and disappeared in a moment into a patch of even thicker
jungle close by.
his escaping

In desperation at the thought of

me

once again,

I

crept hurriedly back

camp, summoned the available workmen and told them to bring all the tom-toms, tin cans and
to the

other noisy instruments of any kind that could be
found.

As

quickly as possible

I

posted them in

a half-circle round the thicket, and gave the head jemadar instructions to start a simultaneous beating
of the tom-toms
I I

and cans as soon as he judged that had had time to get round to the other side.
found a

then crept round by myself and soon

good position and one which the lion was most likely to retreat past, as it was in the middle of a
broad animal path leading straight from the place I where he was concealed. lay down behind
a small ant
I

and waited expectantly. Very soon heard a tremendous din being raised by the
hill,

advancing
to

line of coolies,

and almost immediately,
It

my

intense joy, out into the open path stepped
lion.

a huge maneless o during had a
all

was the

first

occasion
I

these trying months upon which

had

fair

chance at one of these brutes, and
the

my

satisfaction at

prospect

of bagging

him was

unbounded. Slowly he advanced along the path, stopping I was only every few seconds to look round.

86

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
from view, and
if

CHAP.

partially concealed

his attention

had not been so
him,

fully

occupied by the noise behind

he must have observed me.
to

As he was
I

oblivious

my

presence,

however,

let

him
me,

approach to within about fifteen and then covered him with my rifle.
I

yards

of

The moment

moved to do this, he caught sight of me, and seemed much astonished at my sudden appearance,
for

he stuck his forefeet into the ground, threw himself back on his haunches and growled savagely.

As

I

covered his brain with
I

my

rifle,

i

felt

that

at last

had him absolutely at my mercy, but I .... never trust an untried weapon pulled and to my horror heard the dull snap the trigger,
!

that tells of a misfire.

Worse was

to follow.
this

I

was so

taken

aback
that

and disconcerted by
I

untoward accident
the
left

entirely

forgot
rifle

to

fire

barrel,

and
the

lowered the

from
if

my
I

shoulder

with

intention of reloading

should be given time.

Fortunately for me,

the

lion

was

so

distracted

by the terrific din and uproar of the coolies behind him that instead of springing on me, as might have been expected, he bounded aside into the jungle
again.
just as

By

this

time
I

I

had

collected

my

wits,

and

he jumped

let

him have the

left barrel.

An
;

answering angry growl told me that he had been hit but nevertheless he succeeded once more in getting
clear away, for although
I

tracked him for some

little

vm

DEATH OF THE
I

FIRST

MAN-EATER
in

87

distance,

eventually lost his

trail

a rocky patch

of ground.
Bitterly did
I

anathematise the hour

in

which

I

on a borrowed weapon, and in my disappointment and vexation I abused owner, maker, and
relied
rifle

had

with fine impartiality.
I

On

extracting the un-

exploded cartridge,
that the

found that the needle had not
;

struck home, the cap being only slightly dented

so

whole

fault did

indeed

lie

with the
polite

rifle,

which

I

later returned to

Farquhar with

comill-

pliments.

Seriously, however,
;

my

continued
result

luck was most exasperating
the Indians were

and the

was

that

more than ever confirmed
were

in their

belief that the lions

really evil spirits,

proof

against mortal weapons.
to bear

Certainly, they did

seem

charmed

lives.

After this dismal

failure

there was, of

course,

nothing to do but to return to camp.
so,

Before doing

however,
I

which

proceeded to view the dead donkey, found to have been only slightly devoured
I

at the quarters.

It is

a curious fact that lions always

begin at the

tail

of their

towards the head.

As

prey and eat upwards their meal had thus been
I

interrupted evidently at the very beginning,

felt

pretty sure that one or other of the brutes would

return to the carcase at nightfall.

Accordingly, as
at hand,
I

there

was no

tree of

any kind close
feet

had a

staging erected

some ten

away from the body.
feet

This mac han was about twelve

high and was

88

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
into the

CHAP.

composed of four poles stuck
inclined

towards each

other at

ground and the top, where a
Further, as

plank was lashed to serve as a
the nights were
still

seat.
I

pitch dark,

had the donkey's

carcase secured by strong wires to a neighbouring

stump, so that the lions might not be able to drag it away before I could get a shot at them.

At sundown,

therefore,

I

took up

my

position on

my

airy perch,

and much
I

to the disgust of

my

gun-

I decided to go alone. would gladly have taken him with me, indeed, but he had a bad cough, and I was afraid lest he should make

bearer,

Mahina,

any involuntary noise or movement which might Darkness fell almost immediately, and spoil all.
everything became extraordinarily still. The silence of an African jungle on a dark night needs to be

most impressive, especially when one is absolutely alone and isolated from one's fellow creatures, as I was then. The
experienced to be realised
;

it

is

solitude
all

and

stillness,

had

their effect

and the purpose of my vigil, on me, and from a condition of
I

strained expectancy

gradually

fell

into a

dreamy

mood which harmonised
Suddenly
I

well with

was

startled out of
:

snapping of a twig
further sound,
I

and,
I

my surroundings. my reverie by the straining my ears for a
the
bush.

fancied

could hear the rustling of

a large body forcing
"

its

way through

The

man-eater,"

to-night

my

thought to myself; "surely luck will change and I shall bag
I

vin

DEATH OF THE FIRST MAN-EATER
of

89

one

the
;

brutes."
I

Profound

succeeded

sat

on

my
to

eyrie like

again a statue, every

silence

nerve tense with excitement.
ever,
all

Very soon,
of

howlion

doubt as

the

presence

the

was

dispelled.

sign of hunger
rustling

deep long-drawn sigh sure came up from the bushes, and the

A

In

commenced again as he cautiously advanced. a moment or two a sudden stop, followed by an
told
I

angry growl, and noticed
;

me

that

my

presence had been

began

to fear that

disappointment

awaited

me
;

once more.
matters quickly took an unexpected turn.
the

But no

The

hunter became

hunted

;

and instead of
prepared

either

making

off or

coming

for the bait

for him, the lion

began

stealthily to stalk

me

!

For

about two hours he horrified

me by

slowly creeping

round and round

my

crazy structure,

gradually

Every moment edging his way nearer and nearer. I expected him to rush it and the staging had not been constructed with an eye to such a possibility.
;

one of the rather flimsy poles should break, or if the lion could spring the twelve feet which separated
If

me from
and

the ground
I

.

.

.

the thought was scarcely
to feel distinctly "creepy,"
folly in

a pleasant one.

began

heartily repented

my

having placed myI

self in

such a dangerous position.

kept perfectly
:

still, however, hardly daring even to blink my eyes but the long-continued strain was telling on my

nerves,

and

my feelings may

be better imagined than

9o

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO

CHAP.

described

when about midnight suddenly something
and struck
I

came
For
a

flop

me on

the back of the head.
I

moment
I

was so

terrified that

nearly

fell

off

the plank, as

me

thought that the lion had sprung on from behind. Regaining my senses in a second or
I

by nothing more an owl, which had doubtless misformidable than
two,
realised that
I

had been

hit

taken

me

for

the branch

of a tree

not a very

alarming thing to happen in ordinary circumstances, I admit, but coming at the time it did, it almost

The involuntary start which I could paralysed me. not help giving was immediately answered by a
sinister

growl from below.
I

again kept as still as I could, though and in a absolutely trembling with excitement
;

After this

short while

I

heard the lion begin to creep
I

stealthily

towards me.

could barely

make

out his form as
;

he crouched among the whitish undergrowth but I saw enough for my purpose, and before he could

come any
trigger.

nearer,

The

took careful aim and pulled the sound of the shot was at once followed
I

by a most

terrific

roar,

and then
I

I

could hear him

leaping about in

all

directions.

to see him, however, as his

was no longer able first bound had taken

him

into

the thick bush

;

but to

make assurance

doubly sure, I kept blazing away in the direction in which I heard him plunging about. At length came a series of mighty groans, gradually subsiding into

deep

sighs,

and

finally

ceasing altogether

;

and

I

felt

vni

DEATH OF THE

FIRST

MAN-EATER
who had

91

convinced that one of the "devils"

so

long harried us would trouble us no more.

As soon

as

I

ceased

firing,

a tumult of inquiring

voices was borne across the dark jungle from the

men

in

camp about a quarter
I

of a mile away.

I

shouted back that

was
:

safe

and sound, and that

one of the

lions

was dead
all

cheer went up from
astonished
around.
the

whereupon such a mighty the camps as must have
jungle for miles
lights twinkling

denizens of the
I

Shortly

saw scores of
:

through the bushes

and with

camp turned out, tom-toms beating and horns blowing came
every
in

man

running to the scene.

They surrounded my

eyrie,

and

to

my amazement

prostrated themselves on the

" ground before me, saluting me with cries of Mabarak ! Mabarak!" which I believe means "blessed

one

"

or

"

saviour."
to

All the same,

I

refused to allow
for the

any search
the
lion, in
it

be made that night

body of
;

case his companion might be close by

besides,

was possible

that he might be
last spring.

still

alive,

and capable of making a

Accordingly

returned in triumph to the camp, where great remainder of the rejoicings were kept up for the

we

all

night,

the

Swahili

and

other

African

natives

celebrating the occasion by an especially wild and

savage dance.

For

my

part,
it

I

anxiously awaited the
light
I

dawn

;

and

even before

was thoroughly
I

was on

my

way

to the eventful spot, as

could not completely

These thanks- . laughed and danced and shouted with joy like children. and bore me in triumph really and truly stone-dead. huge lion right and crouching for however. I in front of me. and I was relieved so to find that my luck after playing me many I exasperating tricks had really turned at for last." a few paces when. seemingly a spring. on rounding a bush. persuade myself that even yet the "devil" might not have eluded me in some uncanny and mysterious way. to see a I was startled alive closer. shoulder-high round the dead body. had scarcely traced the blood more than "HIS LENGTH FROM Til' OF NOSE TO TIP OF TAIL WAS NINE FEET EIGHT INCHES.92 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. Happily my fears proved groundless. On looking satisfied myself that he was whereupon my followers crowded round.

evidently penetrating the heart. The news man-eaters country in.vin DEATH OF THE FIRST MAN-EATER 93 giving ceremonies being over. prize The was indeed one tip to be proud of. . and the other in the off hind leg. HEAD OF THE FIRST MAN-EATER. and it The took eight men to carry him back to camp. : of the death of one of the notorious soon spread far and wide over the telegrams of congratulation came pouring and scores of people flocked from up and down the railway to see the skin for themselves. I examined the body and found that two bullets had taken effect one close behind the left shoulder. his length tail from of nose to tip of was nine feet eight inches. only blemish was that the skin was much scored by the boma thorns through which he had so often forced his way in carrying off his victims. he stood three feet nine inches high.

Only a still at large. attempt to obtain a meal of the lion seized a couple of the Inhis spector's goats and devoured them there and then. few nights elapsed before he made an attempt get at the Permanent to Way Inspector.CHAPTER IX THE DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER IT this must not be imagined that with the death of lion our troubles at Tsavo were at an end his . noise and was a drunken but. climbing up the steps of his bungalow and prowling round the verandah. Fortunately there was a vacant iron shanty close at hand. I determined to sit up the next night near the Inspector's bungalow. hearing of this occurrence. attempt come out in Thus disappointed human flesh. did not or to open the door. thinking " it The " ! Inspector. companion was to and very soon began make us unpleasantly aware of the fact. with a convenient loophole in it On for firing . Go away to shouted angrily fortunately for him. hearing the coolie.

stood steadily by me throughout. 95 from and outside this I placed three to full-grown rail. pace. about a quarter of a mile away. he suddenly made a finally. Winkler. meal. on such occasions. and however. so hitting light only succeeded in one of the goats. as charge. ix DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER . same time dragging I away in his the others. rushing through In the bushes at a great party an instant. did not press his on throwing stones into the bushes where : The charge home we had that last seen him. when at last the lion turned up. and it fired several shots but was pitch dark I and quite impossible to see anything. with the exception of one of my assistants. I often longed for a flash- Next morning I started off in pursuit and was I found joined by some others from the camp. and we soon came up.CH. off. we guessed by the silence he had slunk We therefore advanced . He was concealed in some bush and growled angrily on hearing our approach we got closer. pounced on one of the goats and made off with rail it. who brute. at the all. Mr. every man of the scrambled hastily up the nearest tree. that the trail of the goats and rail was easilyfollowed. direction. a half-length of night passed weighing about 250 The un- eventfully until just before daybreak. tying them Ibs. to where the lion was at his still busy thick . goats as bait.

the I open and pass almost directly beneath both barrels practically together into his shoulder. I Mahina. having spent so many nights on the look-out. as was by time worn out for want of sleep. cautiously. which had charged with a slug. in and on looking up saw Mahina pointing the direction of the goats. had to fire after him quite at random. Thinking that in all probability the lion would return as usual to finish his meal.96 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO and that CHAP. discovered had indeed escaped leaving two of the goats scarcely touched. strong scaffolding put up a few feet had a very away from the I dead goats. there was a rustling among the bushes and I saw him stealthily emerge into us. for magazine rifle. this to take a turn at watching. and to my joy could see him go fired down under I the the force of the blow. I and waited patiently. I was just dozing off comfortably when suddenly I felt my arm seized. but could use and I he was out of sight among the bushes. my I position on it before On this occasion brought my gun-bearer. as watched spot where expected the lion to appear. I Nevertheless was confident of getting him in . on he getting up to the place us. and took up dark. I I grasped my double smooth-bore. "S/ier/" ("Lion!") all was he whispered. for In I few moments the was I rewarded. Quickly before I reached it.

and was me delighted that one at least was dead. there was no sign of our enemy for about ten days after this. After number of photographs. and we began to hope it As that he had died of still his wounds in the bush. All the same we took every precaution at night.E. passed through Tsavo on a tour of inspection on behalf of the Foreign for State examining the bridge and other works and expressing his satisfaction. For over a mile there was no in difficulty following the I blood-trail. his half-doubting smile as I well remember rather too confidently asserted that hoped to bag him also in the course of a few days.C. of blood sure that he had In the end. H . however. happened. thoroughly sympathised with us in all the trials had endured from the man-eaters. hunt proved fruitless. When I he asked I me if I expected to get the second lion soon. one to or two of which he has kindly allowed He we reproduce in this book.ix DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER 97 the it morning. K. he took a Office. for my after a time the traces and the surface of the ground became rocky.. late Consulting Engineer to the Govern- ment of India Railways. and accordingly set out as soon as was light. felt and as he had rested several times been badly wounded. so that I was no longer able to ceased follow the spoor. About this time Sir Guilford Molesworth.I.

For was clear and cloudless. as the moon was hidden by dense clouds and it was the effect that a lion absolutely impossible to see anything . I came down again very quickly. who slept in a tree close outside my boma. I kept watch until about 2 a.98 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO it CHAP. I The following evening same tree. and round the tree was a regular rin<r c? of his footmarks. but one of my men managed to despatch it with a long pole. when I roused Mahina to take his turn. to was trying to get at them. as while climbing perch I very nearly put my hand on a venomous snake which was lying coiled round one up to my of the branches. The night began badly. but the man-eater had evidently prowled about for some time. . for the men were not further molested that night . Fortunately the night and the moon made everything almost as bright as day. apparently had the desired effect. It would have been madness to have gone out.m. as otherwise at to the one more victim would have been added For on the night of December 27. was fortunate that we did so. more than a yard in front of one so all I could do was to fire off a This few rounds just to frighten the brute away. I was sud- denly aroused by terrified shouts from my trolley men. for we found in the morning that he had gone right into every one of their tents. and least list. in took up my position in this the hope that he would make another attempt. As may be imagined..

taking fairly . It was the man-eater. I too could discover nothing unusual. though I looked carefully round us on all sides. slept peacefully with my back to the and then woke suddenly with an uncanny feelMahina. open round our tree. little way off among the low On I seconds." something move a bushes. I Only I half satisfied. when fancied saw ' I UK FOLLOWING EVENING I TOOK UP MY POSITION IN THIS SAME TREE. The ground was H 2 .ix DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER I 99 about an hour tree. ing that something was wrong. and had seen nothing and al. cautiously stalking us. with only a small bush every here and there and from our position it was a most fascinating sight to watch this great brute stealing stealthily round us. I was about to lie back again. gazing intently at the spot for a few found I was not mistaken. however. was on the alert.

however.TOO THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. three managed have more shots at him from the magazine rifle. while Mahina followed immediately behind with a Martini carbine. plentiful. me that the last of these had We first awaited daylight with impatience. Instantly he sprang out and made a most determined charge clown on us. skill showed that he was an old hand at the terrible game undue of man-hunting risk of losing until : so I determined to run no time. was heard right of Looking cautiously through the bushes. I I took a native tracker with me. Splashes of blood being quickly . I at once took careful aim and fired. and another growl told also taken effect. His advantage of every bit of cover as he came. I him this accordingly waited away he got quite close about twenty yards and then fired my '303 at his chest. I- Before he to disappeared from sight. for with a fierce growl he turned off with great long bounds. I fired again and knocked him over . so that was free to keep a good look-out. could see the man-eater glaring out in our direction. but in a second . but unfortunately had no knock-down and made effect. we were able to get along and we had not proceeded more than a quarter of a mile through the jungle when suddenly in front I a fierce warning growl us. and showing his tusks in an angry snarl. I heard it the bullet strike him. and at the glimmer of dawn we set out to hunt him clown.

Martini. once scrambled down from the tree and walked up to- wards him. not five yards By this time all the workmen in camp. however. the brute would most certainly Even as it swing myself up out of the foot of the tree. I to at When the lion found he was too . it was not there. den charge had proved too both he and the carbine were by The terror of the sudmuch for Mahina. a This Martini bullet in the chest and another in the head finished in his tracks him for good and all . however. A had no apparent so I put out it. and died gamely. his had barely time reach before he arrived was. time. biting savagely at a branch which had fallen to the ground. fired fell and the first shot for from it seemed to give him his quietus. he started I to limp back to the thicket but by this time had I seized the carbine from Mahina.ix DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER me 101 he was up once more and coming for lie as fast as third shot could in his crippled condition. To my surprise and no little alarm he jumped up and attempted another charge. leg. late. and this time well on their there way up a nothing to loss of time tree. hoping to stop him with my hand for the To my dismay. he dropped away from me. I at over and lay motionless. In the circumstances suit. was do but follow : which I did without and but for the fact that one of my shots had broken a hind have had me. he Rather foolishly. attracted . effect.

" and coolies. rejoicings of the natives "HE MEASURED NINE FEET SIX INCHES FROM TIP OF NOSE TO TIP OF TAIL. amid the wild could pieces. by the sound of the firing. AND STOOD THREE FEET ELEVEN AND A HALF INCHES HIGH. On examination we found no in than six bullet holes little I the body. which was less close at hand. I had the lion carried to my boma. and embedded only a way in the flesh of the which had fired back was the slug into him from the scaffolding about ten days previously. and so great was their resentment against the brute who had it killed such numbers of their comrades that I was only with the greatest difficulty that restrain them from tearing the dead body to Eventually. feet six- inches from of nose to tip of and stood . had arrived on the scene.THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. tip He measured nine tail.

most highly prized and The inscription on it reads as my We. indeed. The bowl shall always consider hardest follows SIR. once they could not now do enough for me. and natives up and down the line to have a " look at my trophies and at the devil-killer ". and as a token of their gratitude they presented me with a beautiful silver bowl. skin was disfigured by being deeply scored all over by the " boma thorns. but. as well as with a long poem \\ ritten in Hindustani describing all our trials and my ultimate victory. the of his companion. after I had killed the two Instead of wishing to murder me. as they did. to notice by man-eaters. Mistaris and Workmen. your Overseer. the coolies who had absconded actually travelled from came flocking back to Tsavo. present you with this bowl as a token of our gratitude to you for your bravery in killing . The news of the death of the second " devil soon spread far and wide over the country. Timekeepers. Best of all. the change which took place in the attitude of the workmen towards me lions. I have given a translation of I in the appendix. in As the poem relates our troubles somewhat quaint and it biblical language. : won trophy.ix DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER feet 103 three as in eleven case and a half inches high the . and much to my relief work was resumed and we were never again troubled It was amusing. as they called me.

Of course it is difficult to work a railway under these lions. 1899. We Your grateful servants.104 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO lions at great risk to CHAP. " I leave the subject of the man-eaters of that these two Tsavo. Dated Before at Tsavo. happiness and prosperity." it may be of interest to mention lions possess the distinction. BaboO PURSHOTAM HURJEE PURMAR. of being devoured we all add our prayers for your long life. At last labourers entirely declined to go on unless they were guarded by an iron entrenchment. two man-eating thereby saving us from the fate by these terrible monsters who nightly broke into our tents and took our fellow-workers from our side. shall ever remain. Sir. the late " Lord Salisbury said of the works were put a stop to for three weeks because a party of man-eating lions The whole in appeared the taste locality and conceived a most the unfortunate for our porters. probably unique among wild animals. your own life. on behalf of your Workmen. Speaking of the in which had been of encountered the construction the : Uganda Railway. of having been specifically referred to in the House of Lords by the Prime Minister of the difficulties day." . and rid until we found an enthusiastic sportsman to get of these our enterprise was seriously hindered. Overseer and Clerk of Works. conditions. January 30. In presenting you with this bowl.

105 The Spectator of March entitled 3. and if the Samaritans had quarter as " The good cause their for their fears as had the railway coolies. in savageness or in sheer insolent contempt for man. wish to propitiate the local deities is easily understood. the story of these two beasts. but without effect. had an the article "The Lions that Stopped Railway. . " To what a distance the whole story carries us . 1 I may mention .ix DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER Also. for strychnine is easily 1 Poison may have been used used. and with effect. it would not equal in tragedy or atrocity. white or black. early in against this kind of which has hitherto been regarded man the history of man. both in American and West Central The that poison was tried. from the days of the Assyrian Kings till the last year of the nineteenth century. If the whole body of lion anecdote." taken : from which the following extracts are parallel to the story of the lions which the rebuilding of Samaria must occur to stopped everyone. . carcases of transport animals which had died from the bite poisoned of the tsetse fly were placed in likely spots. but the wily man-eaters would not touch them. for its powers are employed with strange skill by the men in the tropical forest. and impossible the survival of primitive foe ! how it becomes to account for as his For fire main safeguard against the carnivora these cared nothing. and much preferred live men to dead donkeys. back. were collated and brought together. It is curious that the Tsavo lions were not killed by poison. armed or unarmed. 1900.

services to man even at this distance of time. George. Theseus. the dragon-slayer.io6 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO But there is CH. From When the jungle twinkled with hundreds of that the lamps. no evidence that the old inhabitants of Europe. or of Assyria or Asia Minor. in addition to scores of unfortunate African natives of whom no official record was kept." son must have realised in Well had the two man-eaters earned all this fame. or some champion. ever killed lions or wolves by this means. Patter- no common way what it was to have been a hero and deliverer in the days when man was not yet undisputed lord of the creation. as the shout went on from camp to camp first lion was dead. Hercules. It was not the sport but the duty of Kings. they had devoured between them no less than twenty-eight Indian coolies. . They looked to the King or chief. this the all lion killer . and the Africans danced savage and ceremonial dances of thanksgiving. Mr. as the hurrying crowds fell prostrate in the midnight forest. and was in itself a title to be a ruler of men. and class robbers . to kill these monsters for them. and the rest of their owed to their everlasting fame. laying their heads on his feet. and might pass at any moment under the savage dominion of the beasts. who cleared the roads of beasts St. ix Africa. the story of the Tsavo River we can appreciate their.

so work and improvised a shears made of a couple of thirty-foot rails. As the piers and abutments progressed in height. I We set to possessed no cranes for this purpose. work went on how to lift the large stones into their positions had to be solved.x all IJKIlMIE the excitement had died down and there was no longer any dread of the man-eaters. and the bridge over the Tsavo rapidly neared completion. These were at a distance of bolted together at the top.ETION."THE BRIDCE OVER THE TSAVO RAPIDLY NEARED COMl'I. while the other ends were fixed about ten feet apart in a ." CHAPTER X THE COMPLETION OF THE TSAVO \ViiF. the question of briskly.

Great wooden beams were stretched across from the stone piers to these cribs. so that in a very short time masonry of the bridge was completed.io8 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO block of CHAP. built up crib-shape of wooden sleepers. next business The w as r to span the sixty-foot "THE HEAVY STONKS WERE SWUNG INTO POSITION. I was driven erect temporary piers in the middle of each span. and laid with rails . As I had neither winches nor to haul these over into sufficient blocks and tackle to position. and without the difficulty. This contrivance acted and by manipulation of ropes and pulleys the heavy stones were swung into position quickly capitally. large wood. and the . distance between the piers with iron girders.

" AND FINALLY LOWERED GENTLY INTO POSITION.x COMPLETION OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE 109 'THE GIRDER WAS RUN OVER ITS EXAC TJZPLACE." .

"VERY SOON i HAD THE SATISFACTION OK SERINS THE CROSS THE FINISHED WORK. bridge had been only a day or so after the completed and the intermediate cribs cleared away. and the girder When the last finally lowered gently into position. Curiously enough. while still on the trucks in which the coast.no girder THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO was run over its it CHAP. trucks. the temporary bridge was dismantled. It had been brought up from was next were "jacked" up from the which hauled away empty. and very soon had the satisfaction of seeing the first train cross the finished work." FIRST TRAIN- girder was thus successfully placed. a tremendous rain-storm broke . exact place. no time was lost I in linking up the permanent way.

and standing on my bridge.x COMPLETION OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE in over the country. whirling them along like Steadily higher and higher rose the flood. for long to soon caught sight of a solid mass of Nor had palm stems and railway sleepers sweeping with almost irresistible force round the bend of the river . I watched expectantly for the two temporary TIffi COMPLETED TSAVO BRIDGE. it will in be remembered. tearing up trees by the roots and straws. we order to bring stone had built across the stream and sand to the main work to give way before the I ever-rising volume of water. trolley bridges which. soon flooding its banks and becoming a raging murky torrent. I w ait r . The river started to rise rapidly.

and then the flood rolled on towards me. for the space of a held my breath moment . itself with plunge . as it actually leaped at the second frail structure there was a dull thud and ONE OF THE TROLLEY LINES AFTER THE FLOOD. leaving not a vestige of the two bridges behind great that the o tree-trunks as wire. indeed. The impact.112 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO little CHAP. and with I an additional bank of stormy-looking water. was so were twisted round the broken they had been so tier The double and hurled of much ordinary wreckage now swept a sullen forward. some distance above the bridge. furthest On it came. a rerrding and riving of timbers. trolley crossing it This I knew up was the debris of the the river. rails if it.

never long without excitement of some When the camp was kind or another at Tsavo. and which were secured at sundown in a grass hut at one corner of my boma. and other inhabitants of the jungle around us. often killing simply for pleasure have always harboured animosity towards them since the night when one I wantonly destroyed a whole herd of mine. but as this was before the man-eaters startled were killed. and saw the remnant of the temporary crossings swirl through the great spans and quickly disappear on its journey to the ocean. but it to my immense satisfaction bridge took without a tremor. wild cats. I confess that thrill I witnessed the whole occurrence with a of pride. no one dared stir out to investigate the I .x COMPLETION OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE my stone piers. visited These animals did a great deal of damage to the herds of sheep and goats which were kept to supply the commissariat. One particularly dark night we were in this by a tremendous commotion shed. 113 against the cutwaters of The shock the I was great. it was by leopards. hyaenas. and there was always great rejoicing when a capture was made in one of the many traps that were laid for them. hap : and not for food : and I pened at the time to have a flock of about thirty sheep and goats which I kept for food and for milk. not We were being attacked by man-eating lions. wild dogs. Leopards especially are most destructive.

however. Nor were . and there. In spite of was some time before the noise again. to my intense anger. the intruder naturally thought that all I was one of the "demons. hoping to frighten these. A hole had been made through this the frail wall of the shed." but fire could do was to several shots in the direction of the hut. I determined I . I found every one of my sheep and goats lying stretched dead on the ground with its throat bitten through. and quite if strong enough to hold a leopard his foot in it I he should put to a long stake placed this it in the opening into the shed and secured by a stout chain the driven into the ground outside. hoped that he would return the next night make a mea* and should he do so.u4 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO I CHAP. to to have my revenge. cause of the disturbance. I accordingly left the carcases exactly as they lay. He had not eaten all one of the flock. and I saw from and from the tracks all found that the author of the wholesale slaughter had been a leopard. steel trap like and having a very powerful an enormous rat-trap. to see died down and everything became still soon as it was dawn I went to the shed As what had happened. Darkness found everyone the in my botna on alert and listening anxiously to hear the noise the leopard would make moment he was caught in the trap. it him away. but had killed them out of pure love of destruction.

leaving me in utter darkness.x COMPLETION OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE disappointed. the broken wall of the goat-house but in a short time my all shots evidently told. I called out that in he was dead. and shutting his eyes shots in rapid succession. the leopard made a spring in our direction as far as the chain would allow him. fired four ally not Natur- one of these touched the beast. out. followed by the chankidar (watchman) carrying the lamp. so immediately rushed out. Whereupon he levelled his revolver at the dead leopard. who scattered rapidly to right and I left 2 . followed immediately I frantic roaring and plunging. but they caused considerable consternation amongst the onlookers. at once everyone all the boma turned place. As far as I could make out. I could see absolutely nothing . had been sitting evening with I my rifle by my side and a lantern lighted. As we frantic approached the shed. tightly. he kept dodging in and out through . bringing others the lanterns in the With the came my Indian overseer. as his struggles ceased and and was still. who shouted that he too wanted revenge. for about midnight 115 we by all we heard the click of the powerful spring. and this so frightened the chaukidar that he fled in terror. but I knew the general direction in which to fire and accordingly emptied my magazine at the beast. The and night was as black as had been the previous one. as some of the goats had belonged to him.

and will attack anything. thirty yards of me. Many a night have I listened to these animals hunting and harrying some poor creature of the wilds round my camp they never relinquish a . specimen and never had another chance of obtain- was very sorry that I as I badly wanted a . chase. was Tsavo Station rifle one day of these unfortunately without my when one dogs came up and stood within about He was a fine-looking beast. off. and often caused great losses among our sheep and goats. allowed to meat. I white-tipped bushy had not brought my rifle. I and asked by means of signs to be do the job for me and then to take the of course assented to this proposal. and in a very few minutes the skin had been neatly taken and the famishing natives began a ravenous meal on the raw flesh. x Next morning a party of starving Wa Kamba happened to be passing just as I was about to skin the leopard. when really driven by hunger. Wild dogs are also very destructive. I man at or beast.n6 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CH. bigger than a collie. with jet-black hair and a tail.

The principally along the coast of British East Africa and at Zanzibar. is and negro mothers. interested in the different and consequently scope for this at availed myself of every opportunity of studying their manners and customs. Wa N'yam Wezi. Tsavo. and others. there so I soon became more or habits of less acquainted with Swahili live the these tribes. as the ally uninhabited. however. derived from the Arabic word sudhil. They Arab are a mixed race. that " is.CHAPTER XI THE SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES I HAVE always been very keenly native races of Africa. to be really a corruption of the words but it has also been sawa kill. said." How- . together with a few Wa Kamba. being fathers the descendants of Their name coast . by some who have found them scarcely so guileless as might have been expected. Still I had little district around us was practic- was of course a good number of Swahili among my workmen. those who cheat all alike.

improvident people. Their life is spent in journeying to and from the interior. enjoying them thoroughly whenever they get the all the - SWAHILI CARAVAN PORTERS. chance. light-hearted. They are a careless. and returning with similar loads of ivory or other products of the country.u8 ever that THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO may be. They are away for many months at a time on these they expeditions. that of caravan porters. carrying heavy loads of provisions and trade-goods on the one journey. and are very fond of good things of this world. the CHAP. cannot spend and consequently as money on the march they . men are as a rule of splendid physique and well qualified for the calling that the majority of them follow.

and when no more return Mombasa. or even beyond. his load . to damp the spirits of the Be his life ever so hard.xi SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES a 119 have their goodly to number of rupees to draw on These generally disappear with wonderful rapidity. they join another caravan and begin a new safari to the Great Lakes. so that thev migfht wash and bathe in the cool waters c> s railway station : of the river. Many a time have I watched them 'THE OLD CARAVAN ROAD WHICH CROSSED THE TSAVO AT A FORD/' road which crossed trudging along the old caravan the Tsavo at a ford about half a mile from the here a halt was always called. fun can be bought. Nothing ever seems Swahili porter.

if he were the happiest Such was my cook. MABRUKI.120 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO moment it is CHAP. and his merry laugh was quite infectious. ever so heavy. the off his back and he has disposed of gets all posko (food). and begins to laugh and sing \\\s "SUCH WAS MY COOK." and joke with his fellows as and luckiest mortal alive. I remember that one day he was opening a tin of . Mabruki. he straightway forhis troubles.

BRIGHTLY-COLOURED CLOTH.xi SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES 121 THE WOMEN . . . . WEAR A LONG.

a long called a white cotton garment. thinking that assured me that he would not spoil the tin ! The Swahili like men wear a night-shirt. the people who inhabit the thorny nyika (wilder- ness) which borders on the Taru Desert. generous liking. to pull off the flap in his under-licl with his fingers.122 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO and not being able CHAP. him he might break a tooth but he misunderstood my solicitude and gravely to stop. such nickname generally making reference to something peculiar or striking in his habits. whom one cannot to be seen they help Of the many tribes which are about the railway on the way up from the coast. They . or appearance. and wear a long brightly-coloured cloth which they wind tightly round their bosoms and graceful then allow to the fall to the feet. biscuits for me. and the their social customs those are con- sequently much same as of any other though with a good admixture of savagedom. are a kindly. On the whole. perhaps the most extraordinary-looking are the Wa Nyika. to the women entirely who are too liberally endowed be go about with bare arms and shoulders. I magnificent teeth and tugged at shouted to . All are followers of Prophet. They have a happy knack of giving a nickname to every European with whom race. temper. he seized the it. Mohammedan they have to do. folk. kanzu.

" Both men and women adorn themselves with brass chains round the neck and coils of copper and iron wire round the arms. The nearest native inhabitants to Tsavo are the Wa to Taita. attire "THE WOMEN ATTIRE THEMSELVES ONLY IN A SHORT KILT. The men wear nothing the in the way of dress but a scanty and very dirty cloth thrown over the shoulders. My work often took me and on one of my visits. some thirty miles this place.xi SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES 123 are exceedingly ugly and of a low type. finding . who dwell in the mountains near N'dii. away. while women is which themselves only in a short kilt tied round them very lowlat the waist.

who had about just come in for a shauri (consultation) some affair of State. I set out to pay a long" promised visit to the District Officer. about four miles away. Bhawal. me to some way up the the hills. The old fellow appeared delighted to meet me.124 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. A fairly good road ran from N'dii Station to his house at the foot of the mountains. I jumped at the prospect of seeing presently off Wa Taita at home. and on my arrival I was not only most to hospitably entertained but was also introduced M'gogo. coming with After a . us. myself with some spare time on my hands. my Indian servant. so we started on our heavy climb. the Head Chief of the Wa Taita. and promptly invited his kraal.

I for on tasting it. where I was at once introduced to his wives. presented one of them with an orange for. who were busily engaged in making pombe (a native fermented drink) in the hollowed-out stump of a " .MAKING poillbe IN THE HO1. but she did not understand what it was. As soon women to saw Bhawal. scramble up a steep and we arrived at M'gogo's capital. however." tree.LOWED-OUT STUMP OF A TREE. and I was eclipsed. it she made a wry it face and would not eat Still she did not throw away. but carefully doubtless as the put for it into a bag with her other treasures future investigation. her child.xi SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES 125 couple of hours' steady slippery goat-path. He happened . he became the centre of attraction.

part of through a thick black forest. Like most other natives of Africa. I background but to fine was surprised to find a number I of well-fed cattle on the mountain top.126 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. an extraordinary sight to see the absolute faith with which a Ki Taita will blow the simba-dawa. have on a new puggaree. and this failing is " turned to good account by the all-powerful witchdoctor " or "medicine-man. and tive made a very panorama. where I found I was well rewarded for my trouble all by the sides. fancy casting an evil spell M'gogo thought I was over them when he saw me photographs of them as they grazed peacefully on the sweet grass which covered the taking plateau. examined every ecstasies line it most as carefully and went their into over just European sisters would have done over the latest Parisian creation. with lots of gold work on it. we emerged on the summit. to the four points of the compass before lying down to sleep in the open. to the top of and then started again on our journey hills. it After a stiff climb for another two hours. and this took their fancy immensely they . We the made a short halt for rest and refreshment. or This "lion medicine". . the are Wa Taita exceedingly superstitious. magnificent views we obtained on The the great Kilima N'jaro effec- stood out particularly well." It is. for instance.

. 127 daw a of course. in if the efficacy of the witch- doctor's charm it for he is attacked by a lion. In the nature of things. more- \VA TAITA MKN.xi SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES which is. the brute sees to unbeliever. to is of course quite clear that the daw a that he owes his immunity. but the Ki Taita firmly believes that a few grains of this dust blown round the him of from the palm is hand a complete against seek- safeguard raging lions ing whom . usually carried in a tiny horn stuck through a slit in the ear. even in the midst of dis- a man-eater's trict. obtainable only consists simply of a little from black the witch-doctor powder. over. he never loses this touching faith . they may devour after and blowing he will ceremony lie the down to sleep in perfect confidence. that he does not live to if become an it while he it is is not attacked.

Many of the men adding red clay to the women also wear dozens of rows of beads. down from their their mountain warlike owing for to dread of the Masai. stool is A three-legged and is an important part of their equipment.128 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO rest. slung on the shoulder when on the march. ideas of costume are rather primitive the men loins. As usual. peace-loving and industrious people before the arrival of the British in the country. For the the Wa Taita are essentially a . as well as a seemie (a short. also . always carry bows and poisoned arrows. is the filing of the front teeth into sharp which gives the whole face a most peculiar diabolical and rather expression. and. and smear their bodies over with grease. The most curious custom of the tribe points. sometimes wear a scrap of cloth round the while the women content themselves with the same or with a short kilt. their . Both sexes adorn themselves with a great quantity of copper or iron wire coiled round their arms and all legs. afford to Each man has pay in as many wives cattle . indeed. they hardly ever ventured fastnesses. while their ears are hung with pieces The men of chain and other fantastic ornaments. as he can sheep or he provides each spouse with a separate establishment. and as a rule all live in perfect harmony. roughly-fashioned sword) hung on a leathern thong round the waist. CHAP. but the family huts are clustered together. the mixture.

who inhabit the Ukambani Andei tribe. While the railway was being constructed. In appearance and dress or the want of like it they are very the Wa and they have the same custom of filing Taita. rule. being. M'KAMHA \YOMAN. in order to obtain possession of the food which they knew would be K stored . a severe famine occurred in their part of the country. During this period they several times swooped clown on isolated railway maintenance gangs and utterly annihilated them. They are a very large little but have cohesion. province. the front teeth.split up into many clans under who govern in a chiefs patri- archal kind of way. As a a too. when hundreds of them died of starvation. though when driven it to by hunger they will commit very cruel and treacherous acts of wholesale murder. and to the may be seen from M'toto Athi River.xr SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES The next 129 people met with on the road to the Great Lakes are the Wa Kamba. they are peace-loving people.

This am glad to however. their only but in the use of these primitive weapons they are specially expert. the \Va Kamba are quickly becoming . flesh is The arrow-head remains is in the when the shaft withdrawn. in addition to caring for their spiritual . the arrow-heads being clipped in the black. by boiling down a particular root. These attacks were always made by Like most other native races in East Africa. and if the poison and death very quickly follow. xi the camps. night. the skin round the wound turning yellow and mortifying fresh. pitchy-looking essence which remains. arms are the bow and poisoned arrow. I within an hour or two. paralysis deadly poison is obtained. I believe. say. that owing to the establishment of several Mission Stations amongst them. the most civilised natives in the country and the missionaries have adopted the sensible course of teaching the people husbandry and the practical arts and crafts of everyday needs. life.130 in THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CH.

CHAPTER XII A NIGHT AFTER HIPPO DURING my to stay at Tsavo I made many little excursions into the surrounding country. is possessed no heavy which but it almost a necessity for hippo shooting. In these I had double charges of powder and a hardened bullet made I of lead well mixed with about the anxiety an eighth part of tin. occurred to me to supply the deficiency by manufacturing a few cartridges for my smooth-bore. rifle. and used on a short shooting and exploring expeI was dition whenever I had the opportunity. so I try my luck on the banks of I Unfortunately. lashed the gun in the fork of a tree. tied a piece of string a hundred feet longto the trigger. with which I fired the ammunition. go off especially anxious to to made up my mind the Sabaki. and then taking shelter behind a K 2 . remember first round of my home-made As I more than I half expected that the barrel would burst. bag a hippopotamus.

My plan was to remove the shot from the cartridge. This was quite good enough for my purpose. CHAP. and in a few hours' time I was almost all right again and able to go on with my cartridge making. put in the additional powder. for I had been blinded. however. a bhisti (waterand a couple of natives to carry our odds my . the whole charge exploded right into my pitch dark to me. I Everything became groped my way about the hut I in thought agony of mind as well as of body. and was stamping to my rough-hewn charge of double powder well down into the cartridge. and little face. that gleams of light soon began to return to my eyes. found that they would smash through a steel plate an eighth of an inch thick at thirty yards' range. for some unknown reason. I am thankful to say. I had clamped my refilling machine the table. taking with me my Indian gun- bearer Mahina. All my preparations having been made. friendly To my great satisfac- tion the barrel stood the test perfectly. that. carrier). I set out for the Sabaki. More than I on trying the penetrative effect of my bullets. and replacing the ram in this well in before wad and putting the bullet. when suddenly. me I All the great confidence in the weapon. and gave same.132 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO stump pulled off. had a very narrow escape one day while this manufacturing some of ammunition. cook Mabruki.

river. and makes the nyika of the Tsavo valley almost intolerable. pitilessly. if one is from the be it only for tempted to stray away a few yards. These rock-rabbits are more in like big rats than rabbits. 133 and tent. as they swing themselves from branch while birds of the most gorgeous plumage flutter about. its route lay by the always interesting Tsavo Along the banks everything within reach of moisture is delightfully fresh and green. Palms festooned with brilliant flowering flourish along its course kinds of all trees. thorny wilderness of Here the sun beats down stunted. foot The river has its source at the of snow-crowned Kilima N'jaro. On these occasions I usually took no but bivouacked in the open. Our River. and other creepers. On the other hand. whence it . and are found oreat numbers amon<r o o the rocks along the banks of the rivers. but the Swahili will not touch call them. but I could always depend upon getting a paa.xii A NIGHT AFTER HIPPO ends. to their lack of a of which indeed they possess not even a vestige. things). . one comes immediately into the parched. leafless trees. monkeys chatter and jabber in the shade overhead to branch. They owing them tupu (shameless. took some bread and a few tinned provisions with us. partridge or rock-rabbit for the larder on the We march. guineafowl. naked tail. giving a very tropical aspect to the scene. They are not at all bad eating.

we caught glimpses of startled bush-buck and also. Every now and again. The march was full of interest.i 34 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. flows for about eighty miles in a northerly direction until it joins the Athi River. while occasionally the sound of a splash in the water told of a wary crocodile. from which we had constantly to be disone. for it was not long before we came upon fresh tracks both of hippo and rhino. however. water-buck. From this point the streams take the name of Sabaki and flow more or less eastwards until they reach the Indian Ocean at Malindi. A along narrow and tortuous its Masai warpath winds this trail whole length. about seven miles united below Tsavo Station." overhanging branches and creepers. We had gone about half the distance to the Sabaki when we came upon an unexpected obstacle in the shape of a great . owing to the engaged. but although we followed our journey was nevertheless a very slow " UNTIL IT JOINS THE ATHI RIVER. some seventy miles north of Mombasa.

I took us nearly half an hour to had almost given up hope of ever seeing Mahina again. he tied it to his back and stepped rocky ledges. in an instant. however. the haste Although we do at once made we could to get round the ridge of rocks. The I sides of this gorge went down into the water. Then. but Mahina was confident that he itself. about a hundred feet high. therefore. and making a bundle of his there was lower garments. The river took a sharp bend in this gorge. which extended for about a mile or so on both banks of the sheer river. and had managed to scramble out with no more serious damage than a bruised at shin. no clanger. therefore determined to make a detour round it.xii A NIGHT AFTER HIPPO J 35 ridge of barren. and little the worse for his adventure. lifted right off his feet by the rush of the water and whirled away. to find safe when we reached him and sound. and was much relieved. Eventually we arrived the junction of the . For a few minutes he was all went well. I could walk along in the river at the possibility of there hinted mildly being crocodiles under the that declared. the river-side once more. the last glimpse we caught of him showing him all it vainly trying to catch hold of an overhanging branch. Luckily he had been dashed up against a rushy bank. Mahina into the water. and were quite im- possible to scale. and he was round it and out of our sight in no time. it. rugged rock.

WITH TREES. beside which the Tsavo looks very insignificant." round.'36 rivers THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. I believe. and proceeded some way down the Sabaki. which hippo find capital covert the year "THE BANKS OK THE SABAKI ARE LINED. . affording most the welcome shade from the heat of skirting the river still is sun : and a caravan road from the interior gling slaves used. and ivory to the coast. As with lined the Tsavo. Several islands are dotted about tall in mid-stream and are overgrown with in reeds and all rushes. smugwhere dhows for are in readiness to convey them to Persia or Arabia. trees the banks various of the Sabaki are with of kinds.

and ceeded along the bank to see if on joining him I saw a splendid-looking waterbuck standing in a shallow pool of the river. however.xii A NIGHT AFTER HIPPO After an early dinner. but proany other game was We had not gone very far when Mahina. we found innumerable traces of both hippo and rhino in fact the difficulty was to decide which track was the best and I freshest. picked out a tree close to the river and commanding a stretch of sand which was all flattened At length down and looked as if at least one hippo rolled there regularly every night. Here. out with Mahina to find a suitable " and tree. and managed to get safely over. started near a night. which 137 Mabruki soon got in ready. It was the antelope. we did not take up our station at once. hippo run ". I left my followers encamped a safe boma a mile away from the river. fine I and was delighted with the but might have got twenty yards or so nearer. about. . who was a little way ahead. signalled to me. side the river thing to in do it : on account a of the number of crocodiles we found fairly shallow ford. As there was still about an hour before sundown. first time I I had seen one of these sight. in which to spend of the Having some difficulty in we crossed to the other rather a risky finding a likely spot. on what was evidently an island during flood time.

an animal may manage to go far enough to be lost. The buck gave one leap into the air. and as we trudged back through the sand to our tree. by that time darkness would have incident shows the great drawback namely. appointed at follow was keenly my : failure. him up to was impossible do so we should have had for it to to make a long detour to get across the river. By of a splendid moon we settled ourselves on a great . which is a great blessing. and then turned and galloped quickly behind an island which completely hid I thought had better not risk him from view. but as he did not appear the else. and set to in. he was full of gloomy forebodthe light ings of an full unlucky night. so I aimed at the shoulder and fired. bush country. an a animal wounded with a hard bullet is likely to make a speedy recovery. moving. nowhere to be seen. We I waited for him to clear the rushes at the other end of this island. On the other hand. and had while in On anything however. he was evidently or turned off the shelter of the I reeds and so dis- gained the opposite bank. knock-down strikes a part and even then.138 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO I CHAP. Mahina was even more upset at the escape of the buck than I was. regardless rounding the island. that unless it it This '303 effect in the has very vital little . got impatient and plunged into of crocodiles river.

To my I intense vexation in and disappointment. this For ungainly from his covert. and began to descend carefully. peculiar sounds a night bird would a crocodile shut his jaws with a snap. great hippo made in appearance and came splashing along in our direction. Soon the jungle around us with its began to be alive call. holding on by the creepers lower to me which encircled the tree. I therefore my rifle Mahina on reaching the ground. I my ill-luck and want of patience. or a rhino or hippo crash through the bushes on its way to the water : now and again we Still could there even hear the distant roar of the lion. After waiting at for last some considerable his time. . but unfor- tunately took up his position behind a tree which. the great from his shelter and lumbered lamented along right underneath me.xii A NIGHT AFTER HIPPO branch. 139 outspreading and commenced our vigil. to was nothing a be seen. just as to was this helpless half-way the hippo suddenly came out calmly bitterly ground. condition. most tantalising way. but as he emerge seemed determined not to show himself I lost patience and watched made up my mind handed to go down to after to him. completely hid him Here he stood tooting and snorting from view. the and splashing about what seemed hours creature to to I his heart's for content.

and dived into the bushes close by. I likelihood of getting a shot at him from our foot.140 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO I CHAP. Shortly after this we saw- two rhino come down were too to the river to drink . As there seemed no tree. The moment he scented us. but considerably startled at the thought that the hippo might come back at any moment. There . for could almost . and returned no more. snorted loudly. I climbed up to my perch again without loss of time. smashing through them like a In screwing myself round to watch him go.have touched It I his broad back as he passed. they far off for a shot. conditions that was under these exasperatingsaw a hippo for the first time. made up my mind through the trees to stalk him on so we both slowly- descended from our perch and made our way in the semi-darkness. however. and is without doubt he looking brute I the ugliest and most forbidding have ever beheld. Then we heard lion the by. awe-inspiring- roar of a hungry close and presently challenge a another hippo gave little forth his tooting way down the river. I broke the creepers by which I was holding on and landed on my back in the sand at the foot of the tree none the worse for my short drop. the great beast had passed our tree. so I did not disturb them. traction engine. and they gradually waddled up-stream out of sight. but he was evidently as much frightened as I was.

which here shallow and reached only to slowly across. lying down in the shallow water. In this manner. His half covered closeness safety. not twenty-five yards away.xii A NIGHT AFTER HIPPO I 141 were numbers of animals about. so we let our- selves quietly into the water. with nerves strung to the highest only we reached the edge of the river in safety. for eyes there he was. on the other side of which our quarry could be heard. blowing directly from him. was eager for the fray. however. us out of the shadow of the bush. to us made me rather anxious for our more his especially as just then he rose to feet and gave forth the peculiar challenge or call which we had already heard so often during the . to have a shot at him from there. and neither of us in felt am for sure that very comfortable as we . I was surprised to find that I On could see nothing of the hippo I . only and practically facing us. was quite our knees. and waded peering cautiously through the reeds at the corner of the island. crept along the direction of the splashing hippo I my own part fancied every moment that I saw in front of me the form of a rhino or a lion ready to charge down upon pitch. so I thought the best thing to do was to attempt to get on to the island and too. but I soon realised that on lowering my was looking too far ahead. to find that we were again baulked by a small There was a good breeze rush-covered island. Mahina.

He whirled round. glad and relieved to be in safety once more. to our very lucky left We one and had penetrated the him where he fell and got back perch. as my first shot had been brain. and feasted ravenously on the while I turned my attention with gratitude to the hot coffee and cakes which Mabruki had meanwhile prepared. good ones. which were rather flesh. I CH. make assurance doubly sure. The natives cut out the tusks of the hippo. xn night. I gave him a couple more a bullets as he lay. . fired at it. as he raised his head. but we found afterwards that they were not needed. who had been hunting in the neighbourhood.142 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO All the same. made a plunge forward. To staggered and fell. As soon as it was daylight we were joined by my own men and by several Wa Kamba. and then lay quite still.

the Wa Kamba. but to frighten him. so I wanted seriously . we a frown- N'dungu Escarpment four ing ridge which runs for a great distance parallel to the Sabaki. as if did would be I sure to follow up and kill him. Mabruki cut off several strips of the tough on a sharp I stick to dry in meat and impaled them the sun as he went along.CHAPTER XIII A DAY ON THE N'l)UNGU ESCARPMENT IMMEDIATELY after breakfast and accompanied by a few of started off for the camp was struck. careful that a it it warned him that he had better be lion did not scent the meat. some three or miles from its had not gone very far before I caught sight of a fine water-buck and successfully bowled him over a good omen for the day. I heard a . which northern bank. We put us all in excellent spirits. As we trudged along towards the hill. Of course did not mean this glutton. Mabruki was a great and by no means courageous.

distance For some time I remained concealed. watching the . while a young one was lying down in the grass quite close to me.THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. and on looking over the crest. I was delighted to see two beautiful giraffe feeding peacefully a little " I CAUGHT SIGHT OF A FINE \VATERI5UCK AM) SUCCESSFULLY BOWLED HIM OVKR." away and straining their long necks to get at the tops of some mimosa-like trees. peculiar noise behind a small rising on our right.

unless one special purpose. as I Much should have liked to have added a giraffe to collection of trophies. and were slowly making ment." IN THE C. accordingly.RASS (JUITK CLOSE gently biting each other on the shoulders. occasionally entwining their great long necks and "A YOUNG ONE WAS LYING DOWN TO ME. their way back to their home on the escarp- They seemed on the most affectionate terms. shoot these rather rare and I left very harmless creatures. towards the escarp- .xin A DAY ON THE N'DUNGU ESCARPMENT interest : 145 full-grown pair with great they had evi- dently just come up from the river. my as I think it a pity to them undisturbed. is required for a We pushed on.

After a two hours' journey from the river sat panting on the summit after our scramble and sur- veyed the valley of the Tsavo. on which we could walk upright the greater part of the way. Having taken a few photographs of we turned and struck through the N'dungu Plateau.146 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO I CHAP. and was covered more or less densely with stunted trees " and bushes. for ground rose gently upwards to the foot of the ridge. home tents. but on way up I discovered that there was an enormous cleft some miles to the right which would probably have afforded an easier ascent. explore it I had not time but I to on this particular day. Tsavo Station and other itself. the scene. was very impatient to get to the top and explore a place where I felt convinced no other From the river the white man had ever set foot. ment. which lay spread out Our like a map about five hundred feet below us. and of course the inevitable " I was fortunate enough. to find a rhino path which afforded a fairly comfortable and open road. could be seen for the many miles winding its way through parched wilderness. made we a mental note to do so on some future occasion. The climb up the escarpment itself was a stiff one. and had the to be negotiated principally on all-fours. wait-a-bit thorns. the bridge. buildings were plainly visible. however. and the railway like a shining snake. Here I found the same kind of nyika as that round .

followed closely by Mahina and Mabruki. which he had recently after this killed and feasted on in but rear. lion. when suddenly we almost walked upon a lion which was lying down at the side of the path and which had probably been asleep. It gave a fierce growl and at once bounded off through the bush but to Mabruki who doubtless recalled then . the amusement of the others. along which we could walk upright in comfort. For about two hours we pursued our journey into L 2 . Mabruki enough. moreover.xiu A DAY ON THE N'DUNGU ESCARPMENT 147 Tsavo. I was leading the way. into it we walked Like the before it we were aware.that there were more green trees about. kept only carefully the Curiously a short while later we had an exactly similar adventure with a rhino. and charged away from us through the jungle. The country. though a few steps further on brought us to the remains o of a zebra . however. the only difference being. was more frightened than we. as owing rio-ht o to the tortuous nature of the path. the warning I had given him in fun earlier in the day the incident appeared so alarming that he flung his stick-load of to down much meat and fled for his life. was somewhat more open. \Ve saw nothing more of the lion. and was intersected by hundreds of broad and well-beaten animal paths. even the joining in usually silent Wa Kamba the general laughter as they scrambled for the discarded meat.

giraffe. Of human habitations. The animals that require water have to make a nightly journey to and from the Sabaki. most in it. the lesser kudu. by savage beasts staring one Clearly. the last being of a redder colour than those of the Tsavo valley. including. By very this tired. same the a eye could reach place should one be lost . interspersed here and there with a few green trees not a landmark of any sort or kind as far as flat . and indeed the whole region was so dry and waterless as to be quite uninhabitable. hopeless. was necessary that no time But we had been winding in and it much through the animal paths that it was no . but absolutely nothing could direction but the see in any thorny wilderness. we saw no signs. and saw and heard a wonderful variety of game. was to return to the river and in order to accom- plish this before dark should be out so lost. time we were therefore in all and the bkistis I beginning to feel stock of water was the running tree I low. zebra. the only thing to do or . wart - hog. which accounts for the thousands of animal paths leading from the plateau to the river.148 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. bush-buck. then. rhino. the plateau. baboons and monkeys. and any number of natives or of pact. terrible with certain death either in by thirst the face. however. climbed highest could find order to have a good I look round.

miles . we trudged along the fearful object heat without striking a single familiar or landmark. the Wa Kamba stalked along in re-assuring silence. they simply shook their heads. direction to For some time we He had been travelling in the opposite us. and the great footmarks of one of these beasts were fresh and plainly visible in the dust. to my great relief. confirmed my own at once. I accordingly insisted on our keeping to this path. knew nothing. who pointed out a direction exactly I opposite to that which one.xin A DAY ON THE N'DUNGU ESCARPMENT 149 easy matter to say in which direction the Sabaki lay. Kamba followers as to the First I consulted my Wa route back I . felt confident was the right Mabruki. of course. had been following a broad white rhino path. lost and would I all be killed by lions. however. and I felt sure that he must have from drinking in been returning the river. . idea way by comparing my watch and to start the and gave the order solid For in two hours. but volunteered the helpful and cheering information that we were as to our sun. Mabruki murmured loudly . In these circumstances. we found that we were at the edge of the escarpment. a couple of away from the place where we had made the Here a halt was called a sheet was spread ascent. Then asked Mahma. and very soon. even Mahina expressed grave doubts as to whether " " had taken the right direction only Sahib the .

and a start was at once made on our return journey to Tsavo. way to serve After the long and fatiguing day my bathe in a clear shady pool was a real delight. By and the time fully got back to appreciated.i5o THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO trees. and slept the all sleep of the just. over some of the stunted and under food. Shortly after we started one of . regardless of Africa. with did not think we should meet any further adventure on is our way home. The place where previous we had evening was some I struck the Sabaki the miles further before. camp supper was ready The tireless Mahina had for also collected some dry grass my bed. but I might not have enjoyed it quite so much if I had known then of the terrible fate which awaited one of my followers in the I same river the next clay. and arrived at the Sabaki good time before sundown. its shade we rested for half an hour. and I turned in at once. After this we pushed on with in renewed vigour. the wild beasts in At dawn Mabruki roused me with a cup of steaming hot coffee and some biscuits. with my rifle handy. having bagged a couple of guinea-fowl and a paa on the for dinner. had some and drank the last of our water. so trail I down its the stream than had ever been decided to take advantage of the Masai until the along I bank Tsavo River was reached. CHAP. but in the wilds the unexpected always happening.

whose loss did not . when a crocodile suddenly rose up out of the stream. however. ran back as quickly as possible to too late. I was on ahead at the time and so did not witness the occurrence. much and the other three Wa Kamba certainly did not appear to be affected by the incident. native.xin the to A DAY ON THE N'DUNGU ESCARPMENT 151 Wa Kamba fill went with down to the river's edge his calabash water. seized the poor fellow and in a moment had dragged him in. and bow and . but calmly possessed panion's themselves of their dead comquiver of poisoned arrows. all it see any sign of either crocodile or Mahina matter philosophically remarked that after was only a washenzi (savage). but on hearing the cries of the others I A CROCODILE ON THE SABAKI.

As we made our way up discovered a beautiful waterfall the Sabaki. We crossed the falls. . and best the thunder of the falling water can then be plainly water. but a series this cascades. and the falls heard at Tsavo. on the rocks at the head of these marching and some hours' hard reached camp without further incident. On one occasion while I was in the country a British officer had a very lucky escape. over seven miles away. Fortunately one of his servants rushed to his assistance and pull managed to him out of the crocodile's clutches with the loss only of two of his fingers. I have since learned that accidents of this kind are of fairly frequent occurrence along the banks of these rivers. xm of the he had left on the bank. At time the river was in low consequently did not look their but in flood time they form a fine sight. when the wind river after is in the right direction. we about a hundred' and of fifty feet high not a sheer drop. . when one of these brutes caught him by the hand and attempted to draw him in. He was filling his water bottle at the river.152 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO stock of meat which CH.

On this occasion. who was so stout that he went by the name of Moota (i. as soon as we had crossed the river and had struck into the jungle.e. In the course of my little excursions round I Tsavo I gradually discovered that to was nearly always able make my way to any required point of the compass by following certain well-defined animal paths.CHAPTER XIV THE FINDING OF THE MAN-EATERS* DEN THERE were some south-west of rocky-looking I hills lying to the particularly Tsavo which was anxious to explore. which greatly facilitated our progress. we were in fortunate enough to find a rhino path leading the right direction. I for the day owing to lack of set off for them. which I mapped out bit by bit during my explorations. " Fattie "). so on one occasion when work had been stopped material. As we were making our way along this path through the dry bed of a . for instance. accompanied by Mahina and a Punjaubi coolie.

i 54 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO I CHAP. and began to have rosy dreams of a . getting further and further into the depths A little distance on. trated the dense foliage. I noticed of a gloomy forest. through a break in the trees a huge rhino standing in full view near the edge of a ravine. For a moment or two I was greatly delighted with did not to me my discovery. we proceeded on our way. and before I . This at once filled my head with thoughts of precious stones. and as the spot looked likely enough. and its : facets looked as if I they Amsterdam glass expert. diamond mine but I am sorry to say that on closer I examination and testing clusion that was forced to the con- my find was not a diamond. this and though well. that by an tested the stone on my watch cut cut had been and found I it my initials quite easily. it knew seem that quartz to would do as have either the general appearance or angles of any quartz I had ever seen. Unfortunately he caught sight of us as well. though I unlike any other mineral had ever come across. at the gravel with I started to dig vigorously my hunting knife. a millionaire having My hopes of rapidly becoming thus been dashed to the ground. came across what at first took to be a magnificent diamond sparkling in the damp sand it was about half an inch long. happened to notice that the sandy bottom sparkled here and there where the sunbeams penenullah. I After a few I minutes of this work.

the man-eaters' den! manner. stood a little sandy hillock. he snorted loudly and crashed off through the tangled undergrowth. Through this tangle there was a well-defined archway. one corner of this bay. with here and there a copper bangle such as the natives wear. I had no . and quite by accident. and on looking over the top of this I saw on the other side a fearsome- looking cave which seemed to run back for a conRound siderable distance under the rocky bank. which I had lair of these once-dreaded spent so many days searching for through the the in- exasperating and time interminable jungle during terrorised when they Tsavo. As I followed up walking stealthily along in the delightful shade of the overhanging palms. close under an overhanging tree. In this Beyond all doubt. this ravine. far had not gone very came upon a big bay scooped out of the bank by the stream when in flood and carpeted with when I a deposit of fine. I observed on my left a little nullah which opened out of the main channel through a confused mass of jungle and creeper.xiv FINDING THE MAN-EATERS' DEN 155 could take aim. in which were In the indistinct tracks of numberless animals. doubtless made by I I the regular passage of rhino and hippo. so decided to enter and explore what lay beyond. the entrance and inside the cavern I was thunder- struck to find a number of human bones. soft sand. I stumbled upon the " demons ".

explore the gloomy depths of the still I but thinking that there might possibly fired a shot or be a lioness or cub inside. I my steps to the main ravine. that my eyes . continued I my journey I along After a little while fancied saw a hippo among some the bank. I tall rushes growing on to Mahina and Moota a careful stalk.i 56 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO to CHAP. then made only to discover. THE MAN-EATERS' DEN spot. two into the cavern through a hole in the roof. nothing came out I . after all my trouble. clination interior. Save for a swarm of bats. and quickly signed to stay perfectly still. it. and left after taking a photograph of the cave. thankful that the !" which once inhabited Retracing it savage and insatiable brutes were no longer at large. gladly the horrible "BEYOND ALL DOUBT.

and as was quite close to dead. and This before I could stop him had cut his throat. and advanced along This turned out to be a good move. By the time the zebra was skinned. who rushed up in ecstasy. for soon we heard the galloping of a herd of some animal or other across our front. so to we selected a suitable tree in which pass the night. Mohammedan is followers rush in so quickly when an animal it shot and cut the head off so short that is afterwards quite useless as a trophy.xiv FINDING THE MAN-EATERS' DEN 157 had deceived me and made me to imagine a black bank and a few rushes now left the top. I rushed round a corner in the path a few yards ahead. When them he dropped in his tracks stoneI stood over the handsome creature I for Not so having killed him. however. was positively sorry was done. be a living animal. darkness was fast approaching. " to make the meat lawful. We the bed of the ravine. bushes saw a line first of startled zebras This was the time I had seen these beautifully marked animals in their wild state. flesh of and no true Mohammedan will eat the at any animal unless the throat has been cut the proper place and the blood allowed to flow. as he remarked. and crouching under the flying past. Under it we built a . Moota. I so I selected the largest and fired." for Moota was a devout follower of the Prophet. This custom has often caused for me great annoyance.

hills which I towards the rockyhad seen from Tsavo. I had not could get a shot approached noiselessly enough. winded us and snorted so loudly that Moota scrambled was in abject terror up our tree. and said full he of would sleep on the ground. I saw a fine leopard lying on a rocky ledge basking in the morning sun. The and in the early morning. Unfortunately and made off before I .158 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO fire. I now only about half a mile distant. proved simply delicious. But he was too quick for me. until. Moota was afraid of nothing. just as I was about half-way round the hill. and a leopard is too wary a beast to be caught napping. courage later He for was not so on. I had no more time at my disposal in which to . Mahina and I which did . about midnight a great rhino passed our way. We then betook ourselves to the branches at least. He as nimble as a monkey for all his stoutness. and never ceased climbing until he was far above us. and which were I strolled off kept a sharp look-out for game. while the boys were pre- paring breakfast. We both laughed heartily at his extraordinary haste to get out of danger. and Mahina chaffed rest of him unmercifully. the night passed without incident. but came across nothing save here and there a paa and a few guinea-fowl. CHAP. goodly made some I of quails which and roasted a couple had shot early in the day and tea. however.

towards the everAfter a long and it interesting Athi or Sabaki rivers. were made in a northerly direction. Most of my little trips of this sort. resume so after work at Tsavo as soon possible breakfast we packed up the zebra skin and began to retrace our steps through the jungle.xiv FINDING THE MAN-EATERS' DEN these hills. 159 explore as I was anxious as to . It was an intensely hot day. however." very glad when at length we reached the home camp. tiring walk through the jungle what a pleasure was to lie up in the friendly shelter of the rushes . and we were all 'WATCH THE ANIMALS COME DOWN TO DRINK.

after did not realise the risks ran but later on my poor Wa Kamba follower had been seized and dragged under. but unfortunately many in of the negatives were spoiled. waiting for a shot at what- ever fortune might send ting it my way. and gave me away to the rhino or other animal I had sat there for hours patiently awaiting ! Occasionally vigil would get heartily tired of my weary and would wade ashore through the warm I water. took several photographs of scenes of this kind. and watch the animals all come I down to drink. who were staying with me at Tsavo. and here there was luckily a particularly well-defined rhino of. as I have already learned to be much more cautious. the river.160 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO line the CHAP. on a brilliant moonlight night have sat on a rock out the middle of the stream. when the wind changed at the critical moment. which banks. unconscious of my presence. to spend a night on one occasion when . I path it which I always made use discovered I quite by accident on had asked some guests. I Often. to the country. near a favourite drinking place. to make my bed in the soft sand regardless snap of the crocodiles which could plainly be heard from the deeper pools up and down of the snap. How exaspera- was. too. I At the time. being I new . described I The shortest way of reaching the Athi river from Tsavo was to strike through the jungle in a north- westerly direction.

which appeared to lead in the direction in felt which I wished it to go. for In the end. as I anticipated. In the morning they went off as soon as it was the river. so when they had I down would to rest after a hearty meal. We had a delightful picnic. guests greatly although one of them got rather a bad fright from a rhino which suddenly snorted close to our camp. however. see if I thought not sally forth and could meet M . while I light to try their luck along remained in camp to see to breakfast. evidently very annoyed at our intrusion on his domain. As we were making our way I slowly and painfully through the dense jungle. in and my enjoyed their night the open. it struck the Athi at an ideal spot for a camping ground. emptysettled I handed but very hungry . where some lofty trees close to the bank of the river gave a most grateful and refreshing shade. the old rhino path proved a true guide. they returned. came across this well-trodden path. followed easy.xiv FINDING THE MAN-EATERS' DEN 161 the banks of the river. warned twice by the sound of our approach. with confidence. we caught glimpses of these animals as they bounded away to the shelter of the thicket. After all an hour or more. Our progress was now and the track led through fairly open glades where traces of bushbuck and water-buck were numerous indeed once or . and as I convinced that at any rate I would bring us to it the river somewhere.

had gone only a short distance up the right bank of the river. with my bullet through his heart. and in the cool of the evening we made our way back to Tsavo without further adventure. could only most stately make out his head and neck above the undergrowth. The animal was soon skinned and furnished us with a delicious roast for lunch . but to my unbounded came upon the buck stretched out dead in his tracks. yards off. the antelope swinging by his feet from a branch borne by two sturdy coolies and my unlucky friends were very much astonished when they saw : the fine bag I had secured in so short a time. thus giving me time to aim at where I supposed When I fired. but as he was only some fifty fire. . I CHAP. On the alert. and with the next moment was rewarded by I seeing a splendid in a bush-buck advance from the water manner. when I thought I observed a movement among the bushes ahead of me. he disappeared his shoulder to be. and for the fraction of a second he stopped to gaze at at This movement me. so suddenly and so completely that I felt sure that I had missed him. and advanced carethe bush. I stopped instantly. I raised my rifle to my shoulder to once caught his eye. fully with the intention of following up his delight I trail .1 62 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO better success. I lost no time in getting back to camp. and that he had made off through I therefore re-loaded.

Rawson) happened sitting after I Tsavo. hurra off. He was going my Indian chaukidar. M 2 .xiv FINDING THE MAN-EATERS' DEN little 163 Some same at time after this. we were dark be again under the verandah of my hut. there a big snake here ") "Where?" I shouted. This he did. he called out hai ! " frantically. Master. C. Art. fetch it. while one of these to friends (Mr." when I called him back and told him to take a lantern for fear of snakes. is saiip ! (" Oh. and as soon as he got to the door of the tent. wanted something from my so. and sent Meeanh. to off in the dark to do "THE ANTELOPE SWINGING BY HIS FEET. tent. which was only a " dozen yards Sahib.

cutting . and the poor man was so panicstricken that in a second he had torn off every atom at of his clothing." he seized cried. its He then put his up and brought foot on the back open the jaws. We were very much amused could as of course we knew that although the poison it was exceedingly venomous. but was quickly given the happy despatch by a blow on the head. . it I do no harm penetrated a cut or open wound in the never found out the name of this snake. He made a last vicious dart at one of the run up." I the shot-gun. gazing at me the from the side of my campin it bed. unless flesh. I instantly fired at him. enabled us to track still it. him clean half with the shot tail part remained where but the head half quickly wriggled off and The trail of disappeared in the gloom of the tent. by the light of the lantern. quickly. however. the edge of the full of fight. it men who had it Rawson now picked to the light. (clerk). was.1 64 " THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO Here by the bed. where. " CHAP. I saw a great red snake. who happened to be standing near. got the full benefit of this. blood. of head and with a stick forced when suddenly we saw two perfectly clear jets of An Indian baboo poison spurt out from the fangs. under ground-sheet. this. Bring the gun. and rushed to the tent. which I always kept handy. about seven feet long. and we eventually found the snake.

I came upon it suddenly one day when out shooting. colour have .XIV FINDING THE MAN-EATERS' DEN as all I 165 which. but I also I was so much taken did not think about aback at its it appearance that it shooting until had glided off and disappeared in the thick undergrowth. . I was of a dark brick-red only saw one other of the I over all and same kind the time was in East Africa. said. It was evidently much startled. and stood erect. hissing venomously . HI Pro HKAl).

One day was out exploring in the dense bush some six or seven miles away from camp. so determined to follow them up. In this were some fresh rhino footprints which seemed barely an hour old. nor to be realised. owing to the fact that I had to spend most of my time crawling on through the jungle. therefore. I was very pleased.CHAPTER XV UNSUCCESSFUL RHINO HUNTS the jungle round Tsavo was a network of rhino paths I had never so far been successful ALTHOUGH my efforts to obtain was my ambition yet in I one of these animals. passage of many heavy animals and as I pushed cautiously forward I fully expected to come face to face with a rhino at every corner I turned. After . The roadway was beaten in places into a fine white dust by the I . and found my progress more than usually slow. to emerge suddenly on a broad and wellall-fours beaten track along which in I could walk comfortably an upright position.

just at that expected his head to appear. that to see was light enough for me into him when he little emerged from the bushes round the foot of our tree. This. however. and by dusk we were safely but uncomfortably perched among I the branches directly over the path. had in my rifle I pointing it in the direction which But. For some considerable . Unfortunately the moon had not was unable to catch sight of the .CH. monster as he approached there I knew. to We had scarcely been there an hour when our delight we heard in a great rhino plodding along the track our direction. and ready. xv UNSUCCESSFUL RHINO HUNTS 167 having gone a little way I fancied that I really did see one lying at the foot of a tree some distance ahead of me. was evidently a regularly used. but on approaching cautiously found that it was nothing more than a great brown heap of loose earth which one of the huge beasts had raised rolling about by on the soft ground. accordingly. who scented us immedi- gave a mighty snort and then dived madly away through the jungle. so I yet risen. however. moment the wind veered round and blew straight from us towards the rhino. alas. ately. so I resting-place which was to made up my mind spend a night in the overhanging branches of the tree. the clearing Nearer and nearer we I heard him coming steadily on. The next afternoon. Mahina and made our way back to the place.

forefoot poised in the air thoroughly on the alert and looking round carefully and nervously for any . I at once its my position for the night in to sit Mahina preferred some little where he could take a comfortable nap. but still some eight or ten calm and perfect in the tropics in . and stood out like a picture From my first looked at through a stereoscope. At any heard nor saw anything more of him. within a few yards of the it. then a bush-buck a tiny paa emerged from the bushes and paused at every step with one graceful later. on the banks of the Sabaki. and was My scarcely more successful. and wedged himself in a fork of the tree way below me. It was a from the ground. such as can be seen only everything looked mysteriously feet beautiful the glorious moonlight. tree. and spent a wakeful and uncomfortrate we neither able night for nothing. next attempt to bag a rhino took place some months later. and finding a likely river and with fresh footprints under decided to take up branches. time hear him crashing in through everything that came his ponderously way. I had come down from Tsavo in the afternoon. night. perch among the branches I watched a water-buck . come to drink in the river . and he must have gone a long distance before he recovered from his fright and slowed down to his usual pace.i68 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO we could CHAP. accompanied by Mahina.

Absolutely noticed it noiseless as I was in doing this. I at once to woke Mahina and made him come up secure quarters beside me. but at last his appearance on the scene. if left to himself. Just below us there . Just then I saw a jackal come up on its trail and begin carefully to stalk it. and then made off out of I sight as fast as ever he could go.xv UNSUCCESSFUL RHINO HUNTS At length it 169 trace of a possible enemy. but I soon realised that it was Mahina that the brute was stalking intent on. looked round to discover the cause of this hurried exit. the leopard would actually have made a spring at my sleeping but I had no intention gun-bearer. leaf in its stealthy advance sudden. so I cautiously raised my rifle and levelled it at him. on the poor little antelope. and to my surprise saw a large and very beautiful leopard crouching down and moving noiselessly in the At first I thought it must be direction of our tree. Whether. he the on possibly a glint of moonlight barrel caught his eye into the bush before I and immediately disappeared could get in a shot. of letting him have a chance of even attempting this. not even rustling a fallen in safety. some animal on the ground below us. reached the brink of the river and stooped to drink. the jackal a second. All of a stopped dead for however. more For a long time after this nothing disturbed our the quarry I had hoped for made peace. I do not know .

any reason for silence. very leisurely. a with his awkward our view. ful Almost directly beneath us he halted and stood for an instant clearly exposed to This was my opportunity . the jungle and of hearing him crash through it like a great steam-roller for several minutes. ponderous certain stateliness combining strides. I consoled myself by thinking that he could not go far. tread. was an opening shone this the elephant grass which lined the river's edge. Instantly. and through this the broad stream like silver in the moonlight. and of miles the spoor could thus for a couple.1 7o THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO in CHAP. filled gap was suddenly Without warning by a huge black mass a rhino making his shallow water. I took care- aim at his shoulder and fired. was also of this opinion. This but instead of that time I expected him to fall had the mortification of seeing him rush off into I round like a peg-top. who was in a wild state of excitement over the burra janwar (great animal). be easily followed. and with extraordinary rapidity. strange and curious things appeared. and that I should easily find him when daylight arrived. Mahina. . the huge beast whirled whereupon I fired again. as he was hard hit. out of the he came with a slow. On way. . and as there was no longer he chatted to me about many until When track grey dawn we got down from our perch. we the of found the the wounded rhino clearly marked by great splashes of blood.

was exceedingly sorry for this. for no apparent reason. beasts have a very keen sense of smell. hungry and disappointed. quarry had gone. as I I did not like to for it. human being and make no attempt the next day. it 171 At got fainter and fainter. they I execute a most determined charge. will only it and it is said that if a hunter stand perfectly still on meeting a rhino. that I have . Rhinos are extraordinary animals. will pass him by without attempting to molest I him. was being smuggled down to the coast and was proceeding path. One day they Tsavo in the afternoon very will sheer off on meeting a to attack . chained neck to neck as was the custom. feel bound to add. a to in Indian file along a narrow rhinoceros suddenly charged out at right angles impaled the centre man on its horns and broke the necks of the remainder of the them. and there was no possibility of telling which way our finally . leave him wounded but there .xv UNSUCCESSFUL RHINO HUNTS length. These huge party by the suddenness of his rush. was told for a fact by an official who had been may long in the country that on one occasion while a gang of twenty-one slaves. was no help arrived at so we struck out for home and tired. and not in any way to be depended upon. however. but equally indifferent eyesight. however. and ceased altogether. so that we had to abandon the search the ground round about was rocky.

It being a cripple for if one even succeeds "SLAVES CHAINED NECK TO NECK AS WAS THE CUSTOM. He was on leave in at the time on a hunting expedition the neighbourhood of Lake Baringo. the chief accountant of the Uganda Railway. so failed to come across anybody who has actually tried the experiment.172 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO far CHAP." escaping death. once gave me a graphic description of his marvellous escape from an infuriated rhino. and had shot and apparently . and they described it as a very painful proceeding. have met one or two men who have been tossed generally means in on the horns of these animals. Eastwood. about eighty miles north of the railway from Nakuru. Mr. I On the other hand. B. life.

Not content breaking four ribs and his right arm. . How to live for the eight before imagine days after this doctor could be got to him I cannot but in the end he fortunately made a the he managed which elapsed good recovery. a . with this. poor Eastwood where he had Finally. right arm. waiting in their ghoulish manner for life to be extinct before beginning their meal. repeating this operation once or twice. only sign of his his terrible experience being the absence of which had to be amputated. however.xv UNSUCCESSFUL RHINO HUNTS a rhino. He was alone at the time. who were only attracted to the spot by the numbers of vultures hovering about. leaving helpless and fainting in the long grass fallen. 173 killed On its walking feet up to it. the brute rose to and literally fell on him. for and by it was not some hours that he was found his porters. it lumbered off. it then stuck its horn through his thigh and tossed him over its back.

near Mount Kilima N'jaro. and naturally discussed the local Amongst other things we con- chatted about the new road which was being structed from Voi to a rather important missionary station called Taveta.CHAPTER XVI A WIDOW'S STORY VERY March as I shortly before I left Tsavo I went (on 1899) on inspection duty to Voi. . but this state of affairs has now been completely altered away the jungle. which. by drainage Dr. was the good old custom to put up with any friend one came across towards nightfall. guineaworm. At this time it was a miserable. over. We spent a very pleasant evening together. is about thirty miles 11. Rose was and in by clearing and as medical charge it of the place at the time of my I visit. swampy spot. on the Mombasa side of Tsavo. made him my host when my all day's work was news. have already mentioned. and all kinds of horrible diseases were rampant . where fever.

CH. O'Hara engineer in (the charge of the road-making). They shouted back " The master ") and when I asked what bwana. Bwana " that during the night their master had been killed by a the lion. O'Hara. Fearing that some accident had happened. At directed to find men to the hospital and told them where Dr. I went quickly to meet them and called out to ask what they were carrying. was encamped in the Wa Taita country. they told me (" . Rose mentioned that Mr. but had not gone far from the doctor's tent when I saw in the distance four Swahili carrying something which looked like a stretcher along the newly-made road. and without waiting to hear any further particulars hurried I on as could fast as possible to give poor Mrs. while a little o child held on to her skirt. xvi A WIDOW'S STORY 175 and Dr. and that his wife and children were this I following behind along the road. Some considerable way back I met her toiling alone with an infant in her arms. utterly tired out with the what assistance to long walk. helped her to finish the distance to the doctor's tent she was so unstrung by her terrible I ." On enquiring what exactly had happened. and so exhausted by her trying march carrying the baby that she was scarcely able night's experience . with his wife and children. Early next morning I went out for a stroll with my shot-gun. about twelve miles away from Voi. Rose. they replied "Bwana O'Hara.

and was able to tell us the following dreadful story. HOSPITAL TENT AT VOI WHERE MRS.176 to speak. and one bed and my two and in another. Rose at once did all CHAP. . I heard what I thought was I at once woke a lion walking round the tent. " I shall give as nearly as possible in her own We I were in all asleep in the tent. late in the afternoon sleeping draught and made comfortable When she was she appeared again much refreshed. got up give her . I The baby was to feverish so and something to drink as I was doing so. which words. he could both her a and for the children. for THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO Dr. the mother being- given in one of the tents. o'HARA RESTED. my husband children restless.

it and this fortun- ately frightened the lion. that was a lion standing beside looked up and saw the huge beast glowering at At this me. by a feeling as if the pillow were On being pulled away from under my head. He looked tent. told 177 my a him I felt sure there was lion taking his outside gun with He jumped up and him. heard a noise I among the boxes outside the door. I then called to the askari saying I me. ran up to him and tried to lift him. telling me not to worry as it was only a donkey " that I had heard. went out. but he there refused. moment the askari fired his rifle.xvi A WIDOW'S STORY husband and about. looking round I found that my husband was denly roused gone. but found my I could not do so. The night being very hot. at once jumped off N . not more than two yards away. but was sudme. so rushed out and saw I poor husband lying between the boxes. round the the of the and spoke to Swahili askari who was on sentry by the camp fire a little distance off. I jumped up and Just then called I him loudly. but got no answer. for into the bush. to come and help me. The askari said he had seen nothing about except a donkey. so my husband came in again. my husband threw back the tent door and lay down again beside After a while I dozed off.

for husband had died instantly and without while she had been resting Dr. growl- ing and purring. and it was only by firing through the tent every now and then that we I kept him out. He found that O'Hara had evidently been lying on his back at lion. . O'Hara's story. had closed We doctor reading the funeral service. tinued to walk round the tent until daylight. while in I assisted It was lowering the rude coffin into the grave. The weeping widow. At daybreak he disappeared and I had my husband's body carried here. the saddest scene imaginable. the lion door. but did no damage beyond frightening him away again for He soon came back and cona moment or two. while I followed with the children until met you.178 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO came forward and the bed. CHAP. back on to He was quite We had hardly got back into the tent before returned and prowled about in front of the in showing every intention of springing to recover his prey. The we could give her was to assure her pain . buried him before nightfall in a peaceful spot close by. ''All four askaris then lifted my husband dead. the its mouth. The askaris fired at him. and that the seizing his head in its long tusks through his temples until they met again in the brain." pitiful Such was only comfort that her Mrs. the time. Rose had to this made had a post-mortem examination of the body and come conclusion.

very terrible tragedy of real I am glad to say that within a few weeks' time the lion that killed was responsible Taita.XVI A WIDOW'S STORY '79 the wondering faces of the children. the dusky forms of a few natives who had gathered round all combined to make a most striking and solemn ending to a life. N 2 . for this tragedy was by a poisoned arrow. shot from a tree top by one of the Wa _~ IN THE BAZAAR AT KAMPALA. the gathering gloom of the closing evening.

the latter being treeless and . In good spirits. time railhead had reached a place called By this Machakos Road." CHAPTER XVII AN INFURIATED RHINO MY when I work at Tsavo was finished in March. as the line progressed onward I to the interior. set out my new headquarters on March 28. the as I same was very glad to be given this new post. knew that there would be a great deal of interI esting work to be done and a constant change of camp and for scene. 1899."THE GREAT ATHI PLAINS. For many reasons I was sorry to say good-bye to Tsavo. where I had spent an eventful year but all . received instructions to proceed to railhead and take charge of a section of the work there. therefore. some two hundred and seventy-six miles from Mombasa and within a few miles of the great Athi Plains.

with the lofty peak of Kibo topping the fleecy clouds with its snowy head. found the country and the climate very different from that to which. timbered here and there like it open downs. which the great herds of game keep closely cropped. where game of all kinds abounds and can be seen grazing peacefully within a few lies through a hundred yards of the railway. however. the fairly open and interesting journey tract of country. xvn AN INFURIATED RHINO 181 waterless expanses. After leaving Tsavo.CH. an English park and . the difference in temperature was also very marked. Here I could see for I At Machakos Road miles across stretches of beautiful. bare of everything except grass. and it is about two hundred miles from the coast through the not until Makindu is reached that a run change is apparent. I had grown accustomed at Tsavo. and the air felt fresh and cool . On the way I was lucky enough to get some fine views of Kilima N'jaro. From this place. the character of the country remains unaltered for some considerable distance. is some four thousand feet higher above the sea level than Tsavo. the whole mountain from base to summit standing out clearly and grandly. was a great relief to be able to overlook a wide feel tract of country and to in on' all hemmed was no longer sides by the interminable and that I As Machakos Road depressing thorny wilderness. the line continuing to thorny nyika.

fifty I miles further on across soon began to find plateEverything has to laying most interesting work. which My instructions were to hurry on the construcNairobi. move has to as by clockwork. the tion of the line as fast as possible to proposed headquarters of the Railway Administra- " FIRST THE EARTH SURFACE HAS TO BE PREPARED. and level cuttings have to be . made and hollows hills banked up tunnels have to be bored through ." tion.182 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO in CHAP. First the earth surface be prepared and rendered perfectly smooth if . compared with that of the sun-baked valley I had spent the previous year. which lay about the Athi Plains and .

XVII AN INFURIATED RHINO 183 .

and nuts while following these are the men gang who actually fix the rails on the sleepers and link up Finally. in along the centreorder to spy out the land and to form a rough estimate of the material that would in be required the way It of sleepers. fishplates. able lo lay only a few yards. and bridges thrown across coolies Then at a line of regular moves .1 84 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO rivers. while on other days we might do over a mile all depended on the nature of the country we had to cover. as it . . I Com- made it my custom to take a rails walk each morning for some distance ahead of line of the railway. CHAP. and. the packing from one to another. finishes the work by filling in earth and ballast under and around the steel sleepers to give them the Some days we were necessary grip and rigidity. in etc. On one occasion . breaking the record for a day's and were gratified at receiving a in telegram of congratulation from the Railway mittee at the Foreign Office. after About I ten days in this my arrival at Machakos Road walked way It for five or six miles ahead of the last-laid rail. was rather unusual for me to go so far. we succeeded platelaying. another gang drops the rails in their yet another brings along the keys. placing sleepers intervals places bolts . girders to for this temporary bridges. was necessary do order to avoid undue delay taking place owing to shortage of material of any kind. along.

About two miles away on my left. continued to advance very cautiously." made out I the form of a great rhinoceros lying down.XVII AN INFURIATED RHINO 185 happened. time he evidently suspected to his feet. and thinking it. I was alone on this occasion. and on getting nearer "ANOTHER GANG DROPS THE RAILS IN THEIR PLACES. my presence. found that was bigger still game than an ostrich. Mahina having been left behind in camp. however. for rising in he looked straight my direction and . wriggling until at length I through the short grass fifty got within yards I Here lay huge beast was resting. it was an ostrich I I started off towards it Very soon. and watched him but after some little of where the . I noticed a dark-looking object.

I fired instantly . to turn him. my surmise . he whipped round in his tracks like a cat and came for me in a bee- Hoping further. As soon as had These. then proceeded to walk round a half-circle. but luckily for me he did not catch sight of left. however. but unfortunately my On soft-nosed bullets merely annoyed effect him and had not the slightest seeing this. I on his thick hide. while scarcely dared to breathe. more than up-wind at ever. quite flat flung myself down ten feet on the grass and threw my helmet some away in the hope that he would perceive it his and vent rage on I it instead of me. and then gored the ground most viciously and started off once more on the This proceeding terrified me semi-circle round me. sending the dry mud Their only real effect.1 86 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO me in CHAP. could hear him snorting and rooting up the grass quite close to me. was to make him still more angry. as I felt sure that he would I come me again. got wind of me. indeed. my courage began to revive again. He stood stock-still for a moment. and could scarcely hope to escape a second time. off in little clouds of dust. me and he charged by a few yards to my passed me. The moment he line. On he I thundered. Unfortunately. and I could not resist the temptation of sending a couple of bullets after him. simply cracked against his hide and splintered to pieces on it.

we caught little two rhinos us. One day when ing. and assuredly did not attempt He went off for good I this annoy him further. when from my lying nearer caught sight. He had missed of the infuriated beast rushing by. yet dared not move or look up he should see me. I fully expected myself tossed into the Nearer and came the heavy thudding. out of the corner of my eye. Dr. for directly he scented me. My heart was thumping like a steam hammer. and I had quite given myself up for lost. had this not actually seen one do so before my eyes. I f he had found me he would certainly have pounded me to atoms. as he was an old bull and in a most furious and vicious mood. up went his nose in the air and down he charged like a battering-ram. and it was with great satisfaction that appear it in the distance. feet lest and felt the thud of his great pounding along. position I me again ! I never felt so relieved in to my life. a hollow some distance from and .xvn AN INFURIATED RHINO 187 proved correct. as flat as ever was a few inches high. Brock and incident I were out shootfar shortly after this it and not sight of from where in occurred. I fairly I pressed could. watched him gradually disI could not have believed possible that these huge. and turn and twist in their I tracks just like monkeys. I myself into the luckily the grass ground. and every to find moment air. time. ungainly-looking brutes could move so rapidly.

to it When decided upon gave me the chance instantly at had been waiting for. Proceeding carefully manner. fifty yards apart one or other of us would be able to get in a broadside shot. advantage of every fold of the ground in doing so and keeping about In that event in case of a charge. wondering which of us it ought Brock.i88 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO to stalk them. I fired the hollow between neck and shoulder . which commenced would probably in this roll the beast over. we managed to IT NEVER MOVED AGAIN. ' get within about sixty yards of them. attack. and save for one or two . just as it was moving at last I its great head from one it side to the other. the brute dropped at once. I took aim at the larger of the two. and as it was my turn for a shot. taking CHAP.

We it did not want to and accordingly spent about two hours in shouting and throwing stones at driving prize . tough job. before at last we succeeded in it away. its comrade. it considerable fight as fallen we attempted to approach kill it. but may be imagined. proved rather a we managed it in the end. as We then proceeded to skin our this." I HAD TAKEX . 'THE TKOI'HV WAS WELL WORTH THE PAINS TO ADD IT TO MY COLLECTION. The second rhino proved to be a well-grown youngster which showed back. and the r trophy was well w orth the pains it I had taken to add to my collection.XVII AN INFURIATED RHINO its convulsive kicks of its stumpy legs as it lay half on never moved again.

and. waterbuck. leopard. eland. The great feature of the un- dulating plains. hartebeeste.CHAPTER XVIII LIONS ON THE ATHI PLAINS SHORTLY after I took charge at railhead we entered the Kapiti Plain. indeed. giraffe. tract of rolling downs covered with and inter- sected here and there by dry ravines. which gradually merges into the Athi Plain. wildebeeste. is the great abundance game of almost every conceivable kind. is hardly to be distinguished from the ter latter in the of the country. except in the Athi River (some forty miles away) and in a few water-holes known only to the wild animals. however. trees along the the only baked banks of which a few stunted ones to be seen In all this struggle to keep themselves alive. rhinoceros. zebra. is expanse there absolutely no water in the dry season. and the one which gives them a of I never-failing interest. appearance or general characTogether they form a great grass. . Here myself have seen lion.

191 wart-hog. ostriches. xvni LIONS ON THE ATHI Thomsoni. . and a host of other animals and birds too numerous to name . . marabout. while along the Athi and close to its banks may be found large numbers of hippo and crocodiles.CH. Grant!. am very glad to say that the whole of this country on the south side of the railway as far as the boundary of German East Africa. these great plains also JACKSON S HARTEBEESTE. is now a protected Game is Reserve and so long as this huge expanse thus maintained as a sanctuary. At the time I was there. formed the principal grazing ground herds of cattle for the I immense owned by the Masai. from the Tsavo River on the east to the strictly Kedong Valley on the west. AND ZEBRA. PLAINS impala. besides greater and lesser bustard.

there can be no danger extinct. nor could we hope for any until we had got to the other side of the plain and had reached the Athi River. became a very serious matter indeed. the greatest difficulty I had to contend with was the provision of sufficient water for the three thousand workmen WATERBUCK. for not a drop could be obtained on the way.192 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO of any of these CHAP. as any break- . species becoming While crossing this dry expanse. which could not be accomplished under a progressed onwards couple of months. the waterless As we this into belt. employed about railhead.

more daring spirits go out on to the plains in the exist search of waterholes. The only result of these expeditions. and so night work had to be abandoned. and when I was experiencing to the o . which. which. was what befell that three of these men never returned . the trains returned to railhead. day under the blazing sun of a Every day two trainloads of water last fell tanks were brought up from the passed. of course. that once or twice some of to among them ventured herds of game. indeed. to get a plentiful supply of water. When we this had proceeded some distance across dry land.xvin LIONS in ON THE ATHI would PLAINS 193 down the supply have had the most disastrous consequences among so large a body of men working in great all tropical climate. and consequently no material . however. The coolies themselves were so anxious. them is not known to this day. the line was blocked the time the water was being pumped into the tanks. but on one occasion a lion came unpleasantly close to the men working the pump. At first I had most of the tank-filling done by night. by reason of the large we knew must somewhere. who often quarrelled and when fought in their eagerness to get at it. for construction could come through and a good deal of time was also wasted. in distributing the water to the workmen. daily stream further we had to the rear. for This was a source of considerable all delay.

" . is like the So I decided to start very early next morning on a search for this pond In for such my informant described it meantime the poor fellow. have heard." he . full my tank trains. he . Great Master wants water I can show This was good news.i 94 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO the disadvantage and delay caused by CHAP. who appeared starving there was a sore famine among the natives of the district at the time was given to be. In the evening had a long talk with him in broken Swahili round the camp fire. to which interesting belonged. and ascertained that some time previously exactly in how long ago I could not gather he had been the locality on a raiding in finding water. and made a ravenous meal. had had experience of M^bali kidogo before Irishman's "mile and a bit. I expedition and had succeeded asked in if the place was far away. and obtained some I insight into many of the strange and barbarous tribe customs of the Masai." . On being asked I his business. it "that the to him. if it could be relied upon so I questioned him closely. and got the reply " " Swahili: I Now. replied. it M'bali kidogo (" A little distance"). the food and drink. a native from some remote corner of the plains with nothing by way of dress but a small his left piece of cowhide thrown over shoulder- came on to my tent door one his heels in " day and squatted down the native fashion.

whose name we found to be Lungow. whether of "kills" or of animals which had died of thirst I could not say. made a big detour from the o 2 to . The Our search for Masai and the Indian were sent back while Mahina and I camp. but which. Our Masai guide. and zebra. and gave vent to tions in his peculiar language. hartebeeste. some miles to the right The march was full of interest. on the way we passed within easy range of herds of wildebeeste.xvin LIONS ON THE ATHI I PLAINS 195 In the morning rifle started off betimes. Our guide appeared very much upset when he found the pond empty. trip. in " " rolled like a kettledrum. pleasure for the homeward Late in the forenoon we arrived at Lungow's pond a circular dip about eighty yards in diameter. seemed be quite certain of his way. but of for its centre-line. I expected to was now quite dry. gazelle. which without doubt had contained water very recently. as find. I was out attempt strictly on business. and led us across the rolling plains more or less in the direction in which the railway was to run. r many exclamawhich the letter I water having thus proved a failure. A considerable number of bones lay scattered round it. and by another Indian carrying the necessary food and to water. taking my and being accompanied by Mahina with 303 the 1 2 -bore shot-gun. however. and did not reserving that a shot. determined to try my luck with the game.

tions. In this fruitless manner we covered several miles. specimens of Thomson's and Grant's I might have attempted a shot once or twice. and that I vain can be called "stalking." when as a matter of fact one has to move in the openstalked if it splendid gazelle. dried-up water-hole. and told Mahina to drive the hunting knife right through his heart so as to put him quickly out of doing all pain. and I was and I think there beginning to think that we should have to return to camp without so much as firing a shot. for I singled out the biggest head and waiting a favourable at once. which appeared to be dying. and seemed unable to pierce the tough hide. I them. I was suddenly jumping to his by the wildebeeste For a moment he . and with much care managed to get within three hundred yards of however.196 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO Game abounded it CHAP. I handed him my rifle and took the knife in order to do it myself. nothing so painful as to see an animal limping about in a crippled condition. fired at him. dropping him ran up to the fallen beast. saw a herd of wildebeeste. Just as I raised the knife to strike. I moment. As Mahina was I not it this as skilfully or as quickly as thought might be done. startled feet. Just then. but the probability was that owing to the it long range would have resulted only is in a wound. in all direc- but the animals were much more shy than was in they had been in the morning.

instant He sprang quickly aside. and then to my a dazed and tottery kind of amazement he turned and he moved with such a shaky and uncertain gait that I felt confident that he could only go a few yards before dropping so. To my utter astonishment. as I did off.xvm LIONS ON THE ATHI me in PLAINS 197 stood looking at way. not wish to disturb the other firing a game around us by it second shot. I thought best just to wait. From I that time I lost all trace of him. though followed up like for four or five miles. broke into his ordinary gallop and quickly rejoined the herd. He the had knocked his wilde- beeste over in much was dead . but attended with more serious results. and air. . time had an 'e's experience very similar to mine. after he had staggered for about sixty yards he seemed to revive suddenly. an up went the camera into the followed the the next moment by the unfortunate Indian. and thought it he was very keen on obtaining photographs of game. is Kipling's Fuzzy- Wuzzy and "'e's generally shammin' when this my friend Rawson about dead". however. in fact. and as same way. made At first . about to take the picture. he took his stand-camera from the Indian who carried it and proceeded to When he was just focus it on the animal's head. The wildebeeste. he was thunderstruck to see the wildebeeste jump up and come charging down in upon him.

the animal. asked Mahina if make out what I it was. had disappeared kept my eye on the spot. whatever I was.way towards the home "FORTUNATELY THE BRUTE FELL DEAD AFTER THIS FINAL EFFORT. we had not gone far on our . and before could get it my field-glasses to bear. a I reddish colour moving in good distance he could to to our left front. but he was unable do so.198 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO its CHAP. how- . After abandoning the chase of my wildebeeste. leaving Rawson grateful for his escape. into the grass. wildebeeste having stuck horn right through the man's thigh and tossed him over its back. Fortunately the brute fell dead after this final effort." camp when I thought I observed something of a a patch of long grass.

a lion "Dekko. When we were about a hundred yards off.xviii LIONS ON THE ATHI PLAINS 199 and we gradually approached it. and called out. I whispered to him to be quiet "). than the shaggy head of a lion peeping over the long grass. the lion also twisted round and so always make a shoulder . . there would he go also him. we shot possible but as moved. while advice. I watched the lion carefully out of the corner of Every now and then he eye as we closed in. tried my best to follow on. hidden as it was in the grassy thicket. to I asked Mahina in a whisper sher if if he I equal facing a charge from the should wound I where simply that and right went. sher!" ("Look. edging up towards the beast. . but apparently oblivious of his As presence. my own So we kept we drew felt nearer. Sahib. was a fascinating sight to see how he slowly raised his massive head above the top of the grass again and gazed calmly and him. I therefore if circled cautiously round in order to see the back to the covert was sufficiently thin at . This time Mahina also saw what it was. as he lay there grimly watching us. would disappear from view for a moment and it my . the reddish object again appeared and I saw that it was nothing less ever. I and to take no notice of him. steadily at us as we neared Unfortunately I could not distinguish the outline of his body. He answered well he kept his word. ! Master.

I took careful aim at his head. kept his head a half-circle. spite of the risk which one must always run by attacking a lion at such close quarters on an open plain as flat as so in a standing position the palm of the hand . Again the tip took aim. a bare seventy yards yet I must confess still. The . the lion turning a complete somersault over his tail. I thought he was done and for. I on us. to my horror and astonishment was joined by a lioness whose presence we had never even thought of or suspected. he would have allowed us to depart in peace. look with which he had at and was now not give on the regarded but still he did me the impression if that he meant to charge. I. this time for a spot below of his nose. fully He alert . lion. and I fired. so far as could see but continued his steadfast. We us were now within seventy yards of the to who appeared the closer take the greater interest in we approached. More astonishing the beast made not the slightest movement I did not even blink an eye. however. questioning I gaze. and again I fired with more success. had first lost the sleepy us. was bent on war. When I had described and that my found that the grass was no thinner chances of a shot had not improved. to a disgraceful miss. . as have said. distance was. but he instantly sprang to his feet again.200 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO full CHAP. and no doubt we had in not provoked him.

xvin

LIONS

ON THE ATHI

PLAINS

201

Worse was still to follow, for to our dismay both made a most determined charge on us, bounding along
at a great pace

and roaring angrily as they came.
"Sahib, do sher ata hai /"
!

Poor Mahina
("

cried out,

Master, two lions are coming "), but I told him to stand stock-still and for his life not to make the
slightest

movement.

In the twinkling of an eye the

two beasts had covered about forty yards of the distance towards us. As they did not show the least sign
of stopping,

thought we had given the experiment of remaining absolutely motionless a fair trial, and was just about to raise the rifle to my shoulder as a
I

last

resort,

when
a

suddenly
fell

the
to

wounded
to

lion

stopped, staggered, and
lioness

the ground.

The
us,

took

couple

of

bounds nearer
relief
this

and

then to
for

my

unmeasured

turned to look

round

her mate,

who had by

time managed
stood,

to get to his feet again.

There they both

what growling viciously and appeared to me to be a succession of ages. The lioness then made up her mind to go back to the
lashing their tails, for

and they both stood broadside on, with their heads close together and turned towards us, snarling
lion,

in

a most aggressive manner.
or
foot just

Had
it

either of us

moved hand
probably a

then,

would,

I

am

convinced, have at once
fatal charge.

brought on another and

As

the two great brutes stood in this

position

202

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
us,
I

CHAP.

looking at

had, of course, a grand opportunity
I

of dropping both, but
to
it

confess
I

I

did not feel equal

at the

moment.

could only devoutly hope

that

they would not renew their attack, and was
let

only too thankful to

peace if they would, without any further hostility on my part.
Just
at
this

them depart
the
lion

in

juncture

seemed

to

grow

He staggered some ten yards suddenly very weak. back towards his lair, and then fell to the ground
;

the lioness followed, and lay
still

down

beside him

both

watching us, and growling savagely. After a few seconds the lion struggled to his feet again and
retreated a
little
fell

further, the lioness

him

until

he

once more.
I

A

third time the
to breathe

accompanying same

thing took place, and at last
freely,

began

more
from

as they had

now reached

the

thicket

which they had originally emerged.
I

Accordingly took a shot at the lioness as she lay beside her
I

mate, partly concealed in the long grass.
think
I

do not

but anyhow she at once made off and bounded away at a great rate on emerging into
hit her,

the open.
I

sent a few bullets after her to speed her on her

way, and then cautiously approached the wounded He was stretched out at full length on his lion.
side,

with his back towards me, but

I

could see by

the heaving of his flanks that he was not yet dead,
so
I

put a bullet

through his spine.

He

never

xvin

LIONS
after this

ON THE ATHI
;

PLAINS

203

but for safety's sake, I made no attempt to go up to him for a few minutes, and then
only after Mahina had planted a few stones on his

moved

body

just to

make
felt

sure that he was really dead.

We
paws,

both

very pleased with ourselves as

we

stood over

him and looked
clean,

at his fine head, great

and long,

sharp
in

tusks.
fine

He

was a
and

young, but full-grown lion

condition,

measured nine
tip of

feet

eight

and a half inches from

nose to

tip of tail.

My

last

shot had entered

the spine close to the
in

the body

;

the
;

first

and had lodged shot was a miss, as I have
shoulder,

already said

but the second

had caught him on

the forehead, right between the eyes.

The

bullet,

however, instead of traversing the brain, had been turned downwards by the frontal bone, through

which

it

crashed, finally lodging in the root of the
I

tongue, the lead showing on both sides.

cut

out the tongue and hung it up to dry, intending but unfortunately a vulture to keep it as a trophy
;

swooped down when my back was
carried
it

turned,

and

off.
I

From
first

the time

knocked the
fell

lion

over

until

he

staggered and

not more than a minute

could have elapsed
to

quite long enough, however,
to cover the distance
us.

have enabled him

and to

have seized one or other of

owed our

lives to the fact

Unquestionably we that we both remained

204

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
motionless
;

CHAP.

speak too highly of Mahina for the splendid way in which he Had he acted as did another stood the charge.
absolutely
I

and

cannot

gun-boy I know of, the affair might not have had so happy an ending. This gun-boy went out with
very neighbourhood, and not came across a long after our adventure.

Captain

G

- in this

G

-

lion just

as

we

did,

and wounded

it.

It

charged

down on them,
still,

but instead of remaining absolutely
fled,

the terrified gun-boy

with the result that

the lion

came

furiously on,

and poor

G

-

met

with a terrible death.

in

While Mahina was scouring the neighbourhood search of some natives to carry the skin back

camp, I took a good look round the place and found the half-eaten body of a zebra, which I
to

noticed had been killed out in the open and then

dragged into the long grass. The tracks told me, also, that all the work had been done by the lion,

and

this

set

me

thinking of the lioness.

I

accord-

ingly swept the plain with
tion in

my

glasses in the direcoff,

which she had bounded
I

and

after

some

searching

discovered

her about a mile
in

apparently lying
hartebeeste,
notice of

down

the

away, midst of a herd of

who grazed away without taking any her. I felt much inclined to follow her up
rf

but

I

was

afraid that

if

I

did so the vultures that
settle

were already hovering around would

on

my

xvm
lion

LIONS
and

ON THE ATHI

PLAINS

205

spoil the skin, for the destruction of

which

these ravenous birds are capable, even in the space of only a few minutes, is almost beyond belief. I

accordingly returned to the dead beast and sat
astride of him.
lion
I

down

had read that a

frontal shot at a

was a very risky one, and on carefully examinfor owing ing the head it was easy to see the reason to the sharp backward slope of the forehead it is
;

almost impossible for a bullet fired
reach the brain.
in this district

in this

manner

to

As

there were lots of lions about
I

and as

wanted

to

bag some more,

I

set myself to think out a plan
frontal shot

might be got rid afterwards I had an opportunity of putting my scheme into practice, happily with most excellent
results
;

whereby the risk of a of. About a fortnight

this,

however,

is

another story, which

will

be told later on.
I

next commenced to skin

my

trophy and found

it

a very tough job to perform by myself.
to

proved be a very fat'beast, so I knew that Mahina would make a few honest and well-earned rupees out of
believing that

He

him, for Indians will give almost anything for lion
fat,
it is

an

infallible

cure for rheuma-

tism and various other diseases.
the

When

at length
I

skinning

process

was

completed,

waited

impatiently for the return of Mahina,
this
It is

who had by
I

time been gone

much

longer than
I

expected.

rather a nerve-shattering thing

am

speaking

206

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
myself
with
to

CH.

xvm

for

remain absolutely alone
beside
the

for

hours on

a

vast

open plain
vultures

carcase of a dead

lion,

wheeling about above one, and with nothing to be seen or heard for It was a great miles around except wild animals.
incessantly
relief,

therefore,

when

after

a

long

wait

I

saw

Mahina approaching with half-a-dozen
naked natives
had
lost his

practically

in

his train.

It

turned out that he
it

way back
all.

to me, so that
lost

was lucky he
back

found
to

me

at

We

no time

in getting

camp, arriving there just at sundown, when my first business was to rub wood ashes into the skin

and then stretch

it

on a portable frame which

I

had

made

a few days previously.
that
night,

The camp

fire

was a

and the graphic and highly coloured description which Mahina gave to the eager circle of listeners of the way in which we slew the
big one
lion

would have made even " Bahram, that great
for his fame.

Hunter," anxious

CHAPTER XIX
THE STRICKEN CARAVAN

NOT

long after this adventure the permanent way

reached the boundary of the Kapiti Plains, where a station had to be built and where accordingly we took up our headquarters for a week or two. A

few days after we had settled down in our new camp, a great caravan of some four thousand men
arrived from the interior with luggage and loads of

regiment which was on its way down to the coast, after having been engaged in
food for a Sikh

suppressing the mutiny of the Sudanese in Uganda. The majority of these porters were Basoga, but
there were also fair numbers of

Baganda
of

(i.e.

people

of

Uganda) and of the

natives

Unyoro, and

various other tribes.

Of

course none of these wild

men

of Central Africa had either seen or heard of a
all

railway in

their

lives,

and they consequently
in

displayed

the

liveliest

curiosity

regard to

it,

crowding round one of the engines which happened

and afterwards thoroughly enjoyed a short run which I had to make down the line in order to bring up some construction to material.208 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO be standing at the station. and on attempting to do any walk- . magical. their curiosity gradually over- powering return. until shut off steam and stopped Then. so I stepped on to the footplate and blew off the steam. two of their chiefs summoned up courage enough to climb on to the engine. at the time sounding the whistle. Eventually. CHAP. Just after this caravan had moved on we were rain-storms. nor did the stampede cease the whistle. and then with heads well down and arms well spread out they fled wildly in all I directions . very cautiously they began to approaching the locomotive stealthily as though it were some living monster of the jungle. them. thought I would provide a little entertainment for them. to and hazarding the wildest guesses as to its origin and use in a babel I of curious native languages. The mud in no time. of a black sub-soil. the effect of a heavy this downpour of rain in sun-baked is which ground. and stopped railway work the time Indeed. becomes a mass of thick district is extraordinary. into for subjected some torrential which transformed the whole plain all a quaking bog being. o flat same The first effect was simply The whole crowd threw themselves on the ground howling with fear.

some of them would soon get hausted and we should then be able to catch them. and the I ground was very boggy. become roaring torrents from bank to bank in an incredibly short time while for . many hours or even a few days the rivers become absolutely impassable in this land of no bridges. I at a standstill owing noticed a great herd of zebra about a couple of miles away on the north side of the railway. rivers On leaving my tent one morning when work was to the rain. my . as quickly subside. I selected for the hunt a dozen fleet-footed Indians who p . so zebra up and thought that if we could surround the herd judiciously and chase the down from point to point through the exheavy ground. o o hour previously not one drop of water was to be seen. for otherwise a flood may come down and detain in these parts him and stream for rain his on the wrong side of the perhaps a week. it had long been ambition to capture one of these animals alive " " The Here is my chance so I said to myself. Now. Of course when the caravan the floods ceases. the and dongas dry up. where half an Innocent-looking dongas.xix THE STRICKEN CARAVAN 209 ing one slides and slips about in the slush in a most uncomfortable manner. ! men could do nothing owing to the rain. and the country once more resumes its normal sun-cracked appearance. On this account it is the custom of the wise traveller always to cross a river before camping.

biting At first he was exceedingly vicious. flourished splendidly. ing me heavily to the ground. the halfcircle of coolies began to advance with wild shouts. whose I kept for myself. however. We singled out a few young ones to do made straight for and succeeded still. a sturdy two-year-old. and who once entered with great zest into the spirit of the scheme. while the other three were given to the Surfacing men had assisted in the hunt. he once planted both his hind feet on my chest. whereupon the zebras galloped madly about from side to side. Two after . . . were employed on the earth works. but did me no serious damage beyond throwIn time.210 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO at CHAP. to bring in them Three of the captured zebras Engineer. where they soon became more or less helpless. After having partially surrounded the herd. and then did just what we wished them an exceptionally boggy part of the ground. : In way we captured no than six they were very wild and fractious. and kicking everyone who approached him indeed. but eventually \ve managed triumph to the camp where they were firmly secured. giving us a great deal of trouble in getting them along. The whole expedition lasted little more than a couple of hours. of my three unfortunately died very shortly but the third. when we running them to an absolute standthrew them down and sat on their in heads this until the other men came up less with ropes.

allowing himself to be led about by a rope and head collar. much my ' \VE MANAGED TO BRING THEM' IN TRIUMPH TO THE CAMP. that he had disappeared. my He used to be left to graze picketed by a to long rope to a stake in the ground I ." On making annoyance. and would drink from a bucket and eat from hand. Some few days after our successful sortie against P 2 .XIX THE STRICKEN CARAVAN 211 he became very tame and domesticated. but one after- noon on returning to camp found. I learned from my servants that a herd ot wild zebra had galloped close by. and that this had so excited him that he managed to tear the picket- ing peg out of the ground and so rejoin his brethren in freedom. enquiry.

very little among such a number. added some condensed milk and the greater part of a bottle of brandy to it. as of course it was quite impossible for the whole caravan to halt in the wilderness where neither food nor water was to be There was only one European with the party.212 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. while the Basoga themselves seemed quite indifferent to the sufferings of their comrades. and although he worked like a slave he could do had. Thirteen poor wretches fell out to die close to less condition my and tent . but alas. the great caravan of Basoga porters re- turned from the coast on their way back to their own country in . tins of I boiled a bucketful of water. The ranks of the caravan were terribly decimated. and the poor fellows were in their epidemic of dysentery had broken out amongst them. the zebra. doubtless caused by their having eaten food to which they were entirely a pitiable state! frightful A unaccustomed. ! with what a terrible difference All their gaiety and lightappearance heartedness was gone. and dozens of men were left dead or dying It was a case along the roadside after each march. and fed them with the mix- . As soon discovered them. their simple diet in their own homes consisting almost entirely of bananas. they were in the most hopeto far too weak to be able as I do any- thing at all for themselves. from which they also make a most refreshing and stimulating drink. of the survival of the fittest.

on account of the enormous numbers of its stones in bed and along follow its I ordered left my I tent to me later in the day. indeed. and died that night . as knew should be away all night. and I directions for the care of the sick Basoga. 213 ture. but the re- maining seven I managed to nurse into complete As our camp recovery in about a fortnight's time. One or two of them. could hardly do even this. until finally they were well enough to resume their journey to Usoga. and were so weak as to be unable to swallow the spoonful of milk which I In the end six proved to be put between their lips. they was moved them. and banks. " Bwana. My road lay along the taken by the home-returning caravan. this nourish- ment were heartrending some could only whisper. The day I after I first found these stricken natives had arranged to ride on my pony for some miles in advance of the railway. Master "). beyond all help. and then open their mouths. and every hundred yards or so I passed the swollen corpse of some unfortunate porter who had fallen route . in order to make arrangements for the building of a the Stony Athi River so-called temporary bridge over a tributary of the Athi. were brought along from place to place on the top of trucks. Bwana" ("Master.xix THE STRICKEN CARAVAN Their feeble cries for some of . very grateful indeed for the care which we had taken of on.

kiboko. however. coveting the highly-coloured and highly-prized article. had him soundly theft. so I put spurs my pony as if scoundrel. turned . back. the main further and I then marched him in front of the caravan. and callously rolled the dying to man out of it as one would unroll for a bale of goods. This he eventually did. Before very long I came up with and here I the rearguard of this straggling army. act of was witness of as unfeeling an barbarism as can well be imagined. I some little distance handed him over to the officer in charge. rolled himself up in his scarlet blanket and lay down by the roadside to die whereupon one of his companions. making and galloped up to the to thrash him with my In a whip made of rhinoceros hide. A poor wretch. I me to camp of Here on. moment he put his hand on his knife and half or it drew from its sheath. seized one end of the blanket. This was too much me. who. I this little act of retributive pushed on towards the Stony Athi. though sullenly enough. that would fire if he did not once go back and replace the blanket round his dying comrade.214 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. out and died by the wayside. but on rifle seeing me dis- mount and point my tried to run at him. I I made clear to him by at signs. utterly unable to go a step further. am glad to say. thrashed for his brutality and After performing justice. it he desisted and away. On .

of which they are " I GOT NEAR ENOUGH FOR A SAFE SHOT. ripped him open. Basoga from the caravan had followed me. wriggled from tuft to folds of the ground until eventually handing them my pony. and my glasses discovered that it was a finefew looking buck with a capital pair of horns. and devoured huge chunks of the raw and still . which bowled the antelope Scarcely had he dropped when the Basoga swooped down on him. I tuft and crawled along in the I got near enough for a safe shot." inordinately fond . so. over stone-dead. doubtless the aid of A in the hope of obtaining meat.xix THE STRICKEN CARAVAN way while still 215 the I not far from the caravan camp by spied a Grant's gazelle in the distance. WHICH BOWLED THE ANTELOPE OVER STONE-DEAD.

two of them willingly agreed to go on with me and carry the head and haunch of the I gazelle. I dismounted at . lutely dry. quivering flesh. and as he had very fine and exceptionally long once and bagged him too. gave them. with my tent just at this juncture. morning I started early on my return The next to railhead. who arrived tusks. were thoroughly disgusted the sight of this very hideous-looking pig.216 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. camp which the Basoga caravan had just but the spectacle of about a dozen newly-made graves which the hyaenas had already torn open caused me to put spurs to . a great wart-hog suddenly jumped up almost at my horse's feet. and of made my notes temporary bridge. but I was necessary for the At the time the river was absowhat that it knew might at any moment . and promptly cut off the head but my own people. close to on the banks of the Stony where the railway was to cross. The Basoga were delighted at this. When we I had got very nearly to the place where intended to camp for the night. On my way I had to pass the left. lapping up the warm blood in the In return for the meat which palms of their hands. become a roaring torrent if rain should set in it would therefore be necessary to span it with a forty-foot girder in order to prevent constant "washouts" during the rainy season. and who were all good Mohammedans. I at camped for the night Athi.

railhead I When through had almost got back happened to notice a huge serpent stretched out on the grass. unfortunately peared. the his beautiful colouring soon to disap- old gold turning white and the bright green to lustreless black. and the muscular long contortions after death throughout his body gave me a very vivid idea of the tremendous squeezing power possessed by these Skinning him was an easy process. but reptiles. WART-HOG . and was He I probably drowsy and sated with a heavy meal. warming himself. shot him through the head as he lay. notice of me as I appeared to take little cautiously approached. his skin of old gold and bright green sparkling brilliantly in the sunshine.XIX THE STRICKEN CARAVAN horse and to gallop as fast as possible I 217 my to the pestilential spot.

so I had to make make one or two expeditions various to this river in order to to select a suitable place for the crossing and other I arrangements. Each day railhead crept a mile or so further across the Plains. and on April 24 we reached the Stony Athi River. where our for a great camp was pitched few days while the temporary bridge was being thrown across the dry Still another temporary bridge bed of the stream. which was some eight miles further on. that this was anything but a safe place in which . had to be arranged for the Athi itself.CHAPTER XX A DAY ON THE ATHI RIVER IN spite of all our difficulties. On one of these occasions was busy attending to the pitching of my tent after arriving at the Athi late in the evening. rapid progress continued to be made with the line. when on looking round to see I was very much surprised two European ladies sitting under the shade As I knew of some trees on the river bank.

of the for their to arrive. was perhaps a great and as blessing that I happened to be there the ladies were both very tired and hungry. which of course made the by roads bad and the tents about double their usual weight. It is indeed wonderful what dangers and hardships these delicately nurtured ladies will face cheerfully in order to carry out their self-appointed mission. I these circumstances it . owing to the number of lions about. but there was as yet no sign of the little caravan. After a thorough examination of all the possible situations. I chose the most suitable and pitched my tent close to it for a night or two while I made the necessary calculations for . they had I next morning to resume their started out and made a search up and left down the river for the proper position for my temporary bridge. xx A DAY ON THE ATHI RIVER 219 to rest. up to and found that they were American missionaries journeying to their stations further inland. and as a matter party did not arrive until Jong after nightfall.CH. I went them to see if I could be of any assistance. The men every moment with of fact In it were expected the porters. When journey. was glad to be able to place my tent at their disposal and to offer them as good a dinner as it was possible to provide in the wilds. They were waiting but their camp equipment had been considerably delayed porters some very heavy rain.

I proceeded to lay out the curve again. experienced considerable as for some reason or other I could not the theodolite last make the peg on the curve come anywhere near the tangent-point where the curve should link up I with the straight. carrying out the work. so I started to work them out for myself and soon discovered a serious misprint. too. with grassy glades here and there among the trees. temporary diversion of the line. The which runs almost due north here. and in laying this out with to difficulty. but always with the same result. crossing on which I had decided had sharp curve in I be approached by a somewhat the line. Every now and again. repeated the whole operation time after time. when at last everything came out accurately and After I to my this satisfaction. while in others about a quarter of a mile wide.220 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO The CHAP. and accordingly determined to try my luck after lions had pegged out up-stream river towards the source of the Athi. Eventually I came to the conclusion that there must be some mistake in the table of angles from which I had been working. I thought I richly deserved a few hours' play. This being rectified in my calculations. before taking a turn eastward to the Indian Ocean- forms part of the western boundary of the Athi Plains. In some it places is this quite narrow. and is fringed all along its course by a belt of thorny fringe is hardwood trees. .

ever been hunted previous to my time. I had noticed that a lion after having eaten and drunk well. At this time the beaters were in line about a hundred yards behind me. I decided to use as a rule I my pony on foot. to way mount patches in front of the but after having gone about six miles in without adventure of any kind. while along- the banks frequent patches of stunted bushes. lions in this part of the country for they had rarely if had as yet no fear. I As felt rather tired after my morning's work. river. this expedition. and even of man the .nothing he came to except man ever disturbs him. although went on Mahina and half-a-dozen accompany left natives to beat the belt of trees were to me. would throw himself down quite without caution in the first shady spot of course. shouting and halloing with all their might as they advanced through the scrub and undergrowth. and after a hasty lunch off we started up the bank of the first. which struck me as very likely places for the king of beasts to sleep in after having drunk at the river. I decided again.xx A DAY ON THE ATHI RIVER 221 the stream itself widens out into a broad stretch of water. while I rode . nearly always covered over with tall reeds are and elephant grass. I walked for some distance at partly because the I ground was very stony and lion partly because thought a likely might suddenly bound out of some beaters this .

fired. fancied I saw a movement among the bushes and pulled up suddenly to watch the spot. leading apparently to a kind of gap in the bank of the river. but did not dismount. who raced straight across the open strip into the next patch of jungle. called out that he could see the lion awaiting our approach. I Throwing myself seized my rifle to get a shot at the my pony. Just as the men got up to a rather thicker piece of I jungle than usual. and was just about to pull the trigger. when to my utter amazement out sprang a huge black-maned lion. which had evidently been worn . second lioness as off she galloped past. and had the tells I satisfaction of hearing hit. quickly followed by another. Fully a quarter of an hour must have elapsed in this slow yet exciting search. well to the flank so as to be ready for any emergency. I however. with his head just visible in a large in bed of rushes only a short distance front of where I then was. some fifty or sixty yards to my left. Almost at the same I moment found blood marks left by the wounded animal. and a little ahead of the line. taking advantage of every bit of cover and keeping a sharp look-out for the wounded animal as we crept from tree to tree. Before he could reach the further thicket. before one of the men.222 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. The next moment out bounded a lioness. the deep growl that of a serious The beaters and now advanced with great care. making all haste after his mates.

I saw that it was no use to attempt to climb as the prevented continued me overspreading foliage would have from obtaining any view ahead so I . except Mahina. to remain behind . And lion there. my enemy. I accordingly made for this with the greatest caution.xx A DAY ON THE ATHI RIVER 223 down by a rhino going to and fro to drink. fired plump at the side of his head. my slow advance with a fast-beating heart. the . if On my calling out that the lion was done for. Emboldened fact that to till a certain extent. and steadying the barrel against the trunk of the tree and standing on I tip-toe in order to get a better view. however. me. not me. I was able to look over the bank. a tree. without making the slightest sound. not knowing where the huge brute was and expecting every moment that he would charge out at me over the bank from his reedy refuge. crouched the but the native directed luckily first who had seen him and I who had very me to where he was. It was as he had suddenly been hit with a sledge-hammer. for he fell over instantly and lay like a log. by the up then I had heard no movement on I the part of at last. crept steadily forward and from the shelter of a friendly tree behind the bole of which I hid myself. raised my rifle cautiously. ordering all the men. and as noiselessly as possible I slipped from cover to cover in my endeavour to obtain a peep over the bank. not twenty yards from watching.

224 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO . as the two beaters lionesses were probably still close at hand. came running up shouting with joy and although I warned them to be careful. let When to try this half done. beaten out : had the patch of rushes thoroughly but as no traces of the lionesses could to be found. yards fired again. I fired but only badly hipped him so I ran up as fast as I could and at ten This time I missed him entirely. another shot quickly put the Still wounded animal out of pain. Once indeed felt it convinced all : saw one. had the 200- yards sight On rectifying this. they did in a not seem to care in the slightest and twinkling had the dead bank. decided to Mahina other finish the operation. source. we commenced was about skin my I I fine trophy. might as were very fine ones. and gave chase to with my rushed through the long grass but a nearer view showed me nothing more than a huge As I wanted the tusks. my day's sport was not yet over. : and was puzzled to account for my looked at my back sight and found accident it failure until I that I by some had got raised and that up. however. lion lifted I Before I from the reeds on to the dry allowed anything further to be done. While . CHAP. while went on ahead my luck either with more lions or with any that might to game come my way. which I noticed wart-hog. but no I I followed lions up the river almost crossed that I its more my it path.

another occasion I find On had was fortunate enough to get a it successful snapshot of an impala just after and the photograph gives a very good idea of what mine was like." and on reaching my prize I was delighted to that its horns were much above the average. the beautiful animal being bagged without much trouble. Q . I caught sight of a graceful-looking antelope in the distance.XX A DAY ON THE ATHI RIVER 225 rambling back through the trees. been shot by a friend. 'A SUCCESSFUL SNAPSHOT OF AN IMI'ALA JUST AFTER IT HAD BEEN SHOT. closer saw that it was an My stalk was crowned with success. and on cautiously approaching impala.

with the I lion's skin already it pegged out to dry. to meet one of the " other engineers. but how on earth did you hear of " it ? Oh " ! "Good I Reynolds told me. reach. he said. As to was now growing late. home long after dark and there I found Mahina and sound." heavens. all and the only conclusion I could had returned I come to was that he to the camp at the temporary bridge. On my way back I happened called out.226 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO it CHAP. " he left before shot " it." . day before. my trophies and returned to my work at railhead. so that could not find in my heart to give him the severe scolding he deserved for having Next morning I packed up returned without me. I made all haste back where I had left Mahina skinning the lion." was his reply " . "that you heard I had got a fine lion ? " No. but to astonishment he was nowhere to be seen. no. "why. " whatever do you mean " Didn't you say." full : My thoughts being I of " my I adventures of the did . " answered " Yes. ing safe accordingly pushed on. a fine line for the tem- porary bridge over the river." " I asked. I my fired several shots without response . and shouted myself hoarse. who Hallo ! I hear you have got a fine line." I replied." ? Shot " ? he exclaimed.

and when he saw my to trophy. he agreed that it was quite fine enough monopolise my thoughts and else. prevent from thinking of anything Q 2 . which was being carried by my man me just behind me.XX A DAY ON THE ATHI RIVER 227 We both laughed heartily at the misunderstanding.

I While have an was stationed in the Plains managed to inter- view with the chief. Uganda latterly to Mombasa the Their numbers have become greatly men. the majority of the tribe being now settled on the Formerly they were by far the most powerful native race in East Africa. He was affability presenting me with a spear and shield as a memento of the occasion but he had the reputation of being a most wily old potentate. as whenever he was asked an awkward . itself. lithe. remnant of the still more especially the a fine. at one of his " royal residences.CHAPTER XXI. clean-limbed people. but as a rule they keep away from the railway. and when on the war-path were the terror of the whole country Laikipia Plateau. but tribe. THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES A FEW Masai may still be seen on the Athi Plains. from the furthest limits of itself." a kraal near Nairobi. quite correct. and I found this . Lenana. are I reduced through famine and small-pox.

and they made a very fine group indeed but unfortunately the negative turned out . managed to induce him and his wives and children to sit for their photograph. he would Prime Minister and I command him to for him. wonderfully well-organised of the warriors (elmorani] . Lenana's nephew and a combat with the spear and play with their long keen and both made fine blades. I also got warrior to engage in shield. A MASAI CHIEF. very badly.CH. which more than once penetrated the oppon- ent's shield. xxi THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES nudge answer his 229 question. The Masai have a The military system.

of course. The Masai. The object of these raids was. never made slaves or took prisoners. but were I always quite friendly alone. however. to capture live stock. although the country abounds with it. sheep and goats. Besides the spear and shield they generally carry a sword or knobkerrie. kraal was captured killed all the male defenders were with the spear. and it is also a common custom for them to drink daily a pint or so of blood taken from a live bullock. suspended from a raw-hide waist-belt their and they certainly look very ferocious in weird-looking head-dress when on the war. path. sudden raids were constantly being made by them on the weaker tribes in the country and when a .230 tribe THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO must attend to strictly to their CHAP. even was practically rule. instantly and proud boast that where a party of elmorani had passed. and . indeed. As they thus live entirely on cattle. Once to or twice I met detachments out on they these expeditions. duties. Curiously enough they do not hunt game. while the women were put to death during the night with clubs. for the Masai are not an agricultural people their and their wealth consists entirely in herds of cattle. nothing of any kind was left it was their alive. and are not allowed until after their marry or to smoke or to drink term of active service is completed. but live principally on beef and milk . though Before the advent of British me.

They also worship a Supreme MASAI WARRIORS. but is this term is applied anything which beyond their understanding. Being also whom they to call N'gai. of the customs of the Perhaps the most curious .XXI THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES 231 as cattle cannot thrive without not unnatural to find that good pasture. it is they have a great reverence for grass.

of grass. MASAI I re- WOMAN member once being out with a Masai one day when we came across the bleached skull of a long defunct member at of his tribe. Masai the extraction of the two front teeth from It is the lower jaw. when lockjaw was very prevalent amonoand it the was found that still if these teeth were pulled out food could be taken. I and give it only for what it is worth but : whatever the reason for the custom. of course easily recognisable as such by the absence of the proper teeth. the absence of these two teeth constitutes a most distinct ive de nt f ying i i mark. at a said that this habit originated time tribe.232 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO is CHAP. ful The Masai it. spat upon once plucked a handand then placed it very . e This xplanation seems scarcely sa tisfactory or sufficient.

but nowadays like most other native races they have adopted our English fashion of shaking hands.XXI THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES . Formerly the Masai used to spit in the face as a mark of great friendship. conscientiously to answer him in the affirmative. 233 carefully within the skull to avert evil this from himself. The same man asked me among many other questions if my country was am afraid I was unable nearer to God than his. was done. I MASAI GIRLS. he said. Another very common custom amongst them is .

or a little round tin canister. are often almost completely encased with are very fond of covering these rings. bunches of brass-headed Nearly all nails.234 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. bells on their ankles to give notice of their approach. rings. which I should think must be very . that of distorting the lobe of the ear it by stretching It is until it hangs down quite five or six inches. and by hanging to it pieces of chain. quantities of iron or copper wire. little the men wear according to fancy. indeed. while the women themselves with large Their limbs. beads. then pierced and decorated in various ways by sticking through it a piece of wood two or three inches in diameter. or MASAI WOMEN.

N'DEROBBO BOY. as they consider this custom to be prejudicial to the soil the bodies are simply carried some little . . As a rule. and the more she possesses the higher does she stand in the social scale.XXI THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES : 235 heavy and uncomfortable but no Masai woman considers herself a lady of fashion without them. the Masai do not bury their dead.

distance from the village and to be devoured of burial by birds and wild is beasts. I came these mounds one day near Tsavo very carefully. but found and opened possibly I it nothing : did not pursue my search deep enough . remains a large across one of mound is also raised. WITH COLI. for The honour chief. reserved only a great over whose N'DEROBBO OY.236 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO left CHAP.ABVS MONKEY.

as they hide away caves and thickets. right and honourable savage and it is a great pity that they are gradually dying out. the Masai are an uprace. In general. unlike their over-lords. who. More hunters. and keep . are a race of They are seldom to be in met with.XXI THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES 237 into the earth. N DEROBBO GIRL. however. or less serfs of the Masai are the Wa N'derobbo.

use the spear and . however. who are similar to the Masai in build. They live in little villages composed of beehive huts and always find. to On one occasion I and crawling on make my way into one of these kraals. district from Nairobi to the Kedong River. they not nearly so good-looking. with the exception of the Masai. is the bow and poisoned arrow. though of a different shape their principal weapon. dwell the Wa Kikuyu. moving from place to place following the Not long ago I saw a few of them in the : neighbourhood of the Eldama Ravine but these were more or less civilised. who were quite graceful. which hide. and in the Kenya Province. situated in the very thickest patches of forest that they can and their cattle kraals are especially strongly built and carefully hidden. Unlike the Masai. in is slung round the waist by a belt of raw filed to Their front teeth are a sharp point all the same manner as those of nearly the other native tribes of East Africa. shield. but Like the latter. constantly game.238 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. and was much amazed to notice what labour and ingenuity had been expended on its construc- managed after a great deal of difficulty all-fours tion. the Wa Kikuyu have a . and the girls. They also frequently carry a rudely made two-edged short sword in a sheath. had abandoned the native undress costume In the for flowing white robes.

.xxi THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES good m'tama idea (a 239 fairly of agriculture. sugar-cane. and grow crops of kind of native grain from which WA KIKUYU. and tobacco. flour is made). sweet potatoes.

murdered by some members of this tribe. he made it his custom all to dissect the bodies of those that died. The Wa Kikuyu have the reputation people. of being a very cowardly and treacherous and they have undoubtedly committed some very cruel deeds. finding Kikuyu country and as he was keenly charge of interested in about the tropical diseases from which the animals suffered. in He left me to go up out to the the transport.240 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. Captain Haslem. was barbarously WA KIKUYU. A friend of mine. The superstitious Wa Kikuyu were fully convinced that . with whom I lived for a few months at Tsavo.

of them working at one thing or another at Nairobi and never had any trouble with them.XXI THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES 241 by this he bewitched their cattle. For my part. On the contrary I found them well-behaved and intelligent to learn. found them not nearly so black as they "THE WOMEN OF THE \VA KIKUYU CARRY THE HEAVY LOADS." I had about four hundred had been painted to me. all and most anxious As is the case with of the other African races. which at the time were dying in scores from rinderpest. the women Wa Kikuyu do the manual labour of R . however. So instigated no doubt by the all-powerful witch-doctor killed they treacherously I him.

the bundles being held in position on their back by a strap passing round the forehead. a bead or two here and there . perhaps. Of They to little is the other tribes to be met with in this part of the world. Notwithstanding this some of them are quite pleasant looking. simple people.242 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CH. devoted a agriculture and hospitable in the extreme addicted to thieving. the Kavirondo are the most interesting. about the best of the East African . do not object to being photo- graphed. They are clothed (to use Mark Twain's expression) in little but a smile. but then that scarcely considered a sin in the heart of Africa. xxi the village and carry the heavy loads for their lords and masters. and once they have overcome their fear of the European. are an industrious. being considered ample raiment are modest in their nevertheless they ways and are on the whole tribes.

I Of course I was always ready should be delighted for a hunt when it was said I possible for " me we were held up to get " away. and Shortly he suggested that we should go for a shooting expedition on the morrow. accordingly. enough was consequently most anxious after his arrival. where. I could R 2 . as there be was a great deal of miscellaneous done.CHAPTER XXII LIFE HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY ON May work to 12 railhead reached the Athi River. and as just at the time by the Athi River. joined quite unexpectedly by my who had shared wagon by one of the exciting adventure with in me at Tsavo the night we were attacked the man-eaters. to bag a do so. and that I should trot out for his benefit one of the local lions. I was friend Dr. our headquarters remained established for after some little time. Brock. in we had settled down One day not long our new camp. so far not been fortunate the goods- Now to Brock had lion.

and honest and pleasant-looking. and warned the to "boys" who were early start. in the world. manage a day filled So we made the usual preparations for a day's absence from camp our water-bottles with tin of sardines in tea. for if my shikar would in next day.244 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO off quite easily. As made the differ- ence us. and just as dozing off to sleep. thinking that could make little difference whether in all he came with us or stayed behind things turned out. he had not accompanied all probability have ended disastrously He was a very dusky- coloured young Pathan about twenty years of age. looked care- fully to our rifles and ammunition. and possible to get there if by daybreak. I and rushes which fringed the banks of the We therefore retired to rest early. slit Roshan Khan. one of was my Indian servants. . CHAP. put in his head through the at my tent door and asked leave to accompany the I " Sahibs" the morning so that he might see what shikar like. lithe and active. it camp. it (hunting) was This request sleepily granted. We should thus have a better chance of catching one of the lords of the plain as he returned from his nightly depredations to the kindly shelter of the tall grass river. as lions lay I accompany us I as beaters to be ready before dawn. put a loaf of bread and a our haversacks. however. decided to make wanted a very knew that the most I likely place for some distance away.

line. bison-like antelopes. He came across at I once and started off towards the herd. when I noticed a big herd of wildebeeste browsing quietly I some distance to our right. most interesting and exciting work all the same. We had just beaten through a most hopeful-looking covert without success and had come out on to a beautiful open grassy glade which stretched away for some distance ahead of us. Brock.xxu HOW ROSHAN KHAN He much SAVED MY LIFE for 245 as Pathans go. Brock also wanted a wildebeeste. indeed. breakfasted by candle light and We of the managed as it to get several miles on our Athi before daylight. though we advanced through many patches of rushes and long It was grass likely to conceal our expected quarry. so I whistled softly to him. besides having a touching faith in my prowess in shikar probably. as the guest. this time and was was the reason why he stuck so close to me throughout the hunt. while sat . thoroughly way towards dawn. had been my "boy" : some attached to me. while close behind Roshan Khan followed In this me with the day's provisions. being placed in the most likely position for a shot. order we trudged steadily forward for a couple of miles without coming across anything. as we never knew but that a lion might the next moment jump up at our very feet. As soon we extended in the source was Dr. and pointed out the weirdthat knew looking.

of Africa shenzi. five tall. slim Masai approaching spear each carrying six-foot right hand. On coming in nearer. but approach and kept steadily moving on. " M'bali kidogo (" A little distance "). the leader of the party eagerly asked Swahili. Some time elapsed I still sat without a shot. down watch stalk. expecting every moment to hear the sound of Brock's rifle." filled This " me " ? with interest at once. the proceedings. came the stereotyped reply. Sahib. the wildebeeste quickly noticed his and waited. until at last they disappeared over one of the gentle rises which are such a feature of the Athi Plains. said I.246 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO to CHAP. . you many. "What ") does " ? the " Bwana Makubwa (" Great Master desire Simba" ("Lions"). on as the Indians called the natives of the interior . and follow I was just about to him up and find out how things were going. Sahib. or savages a and looking in in round Indian his I saw file. I " How far away are they asked. " I will show "Come. however. in the least the savages are coming ). when Roshan Khan suddenly exclaimed excitedly : " Dekko. He made really a beautiful difficult still which was rendered by the open nature of the very country. I was not alarmed at this somewhat all startling announcement. shenzi ata hain /" " ! (" Look." he replied.

it To my surprise and delight saw that was the head of a huge black-maned tree. he extended his spear in a most dramatic : manner." exclaimed " Look. I which completely hid pulled up short . vouchsafed me no answer and continued to walk steadily on. however. " but could see no sign of him. casting little I keen glances ahead. so. for as I started to run towards the trees in order to cut off the fast disappearing lioness from a stretch of rushes for which she was making. in case the " lions should get many away in the meantime. and pointing to a clump of trees just ahead. and at once caught sight I of a lioness trotting off behind the bushes. lion peering out from behind the trunk of the his body. there are the lions. the mbali kidogo proved a good distance in this case. I began to get impatient at the long tramp. and called out to the Masai to know where his lions were but he . I looked. I told the Masai to lead the way.xxn I HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY LIFE 247 immediately had a good look round for Brock. also saw some suspicious-looking thing at the foot of one of the big trees. As usual. over two miles Indeed. a low and closer at the object made me look aroused I growl which had first sinister my suspicions. Master . but came to the conclusion that it was only a growth of some kind projecting from the trunk. I was soon to be undeceived. and off we started. " After a " time Where are the lions ? This again asked.

and stared Although he was not seventy difficult yards away from me. I stood. yet owing to the nature of the background especially as steadily at it was very to make him out. but the fourth stood broadside on.248 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO at him. looking. so after I knelt fired taking careful aim. CHAP. I ran all my might for a point of vantage from which might have a better chance of bagging him as he passed. low bounds. at each other . had almost got beyond the surprise stage where lions were concerned yet I must admit that I was thoroughly startled and Now by this time I . gazing It was only when the great mouth me. For a few seconds we stood thus and looked again and made not get a fair shot at him from where with I then he growled As I could off after the lioness. opened in an angry snarl that I could see plainly what he really was. down The and dis- lioness appeared from sight instantly. and on looking over . In the twinkling of an eye three of them had disappeared after their lord in long. not at me. he kept his head perfectly still. and talking and gesticulating This gave at once me fifty a splendid chance for a shoulder shot at about yards' distance. my who by this time were grouped together excitedly. brought to a full stop in the middle of my race by seeing no less than four more lionesses jump up from the covert which the lion had just left. but at followers.

threatening growls. apparently deliberating should return to her rescue. as she was on her back. me that when he heard the growl of rage from the lioness after she was shot. watching my at vent to his anger every movement and giving my presence in low. but to He soon caught sight of him again.xxn HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY I LIFE 249 the top of the grass saw that my shot had told. however. where he was half hidden by some low bushes. clawing the air and growling As she looked to me to be done for. Evidently. running towards him. at an altitude of more than 5. he took up his station under a tree. he had decided that discretion was the better part of valour. which. I viciously. the time.000 feet above sea-level. shouted to some of the men to remain behind and at watch her. Fortunately he was travelling leisurely. and had probably I stopped several times to see what I indeed the men. above which the lion perceived When me only his head showed. leaves one very breathless at the end of it. Here he stood. he made whether he quite a long halt. and was delighted him fast but I had I . my had not made off very quickly. a run to try feared that the check with once more the lioness might have lost him to me altogether. wjiile I set off I to catch up the relief lion. who could see him afterwards told was up all to . I did . to find that still to was gaining on run about two hundred I yards at my best pace.

world so. taking as steady an aim as was possible in I the circumstances. and all was still. and if there had been another tree close by. and soon the growling and commotion ceased. as the rifle barrel wobbled about. pulled the trigger. about head run.250 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO all CHAP. I therefore fired half a dozen shots into the bushes at the spot where I imagined he lay. As a matter for of fact. . I was confident the brute was dead. but in of the risk I would not have missed it for the . not at like the look of him. as I of any kind at hand meant to I him at all costs. Instantly the shaggy head disappeared from view. I should certainly have scrambled up it into safety before attempting to fire. keenly anxious to finish him off before he could charge out and cover the short distance which separated us. however. do to keep the sight on the fierce-looking target and I thought to myself. and covered his great with and was my rifle. there was no shelter so." spite was a most exciting moment. and such a succession of angry roars and growls of the bushes that I came up out and felt was fairly startled. that it was all could . I sat down where have a try was. my arms were so I so breathless after my I shaky. sixty yards from him. " If will I don't knock him over with the and then first he be out of these bushes and down on I me like greased lightning It know what to expect. shot. so I called up one of the men to stay and watch the .

while I took up my position on one side. however. so as to obtain a good shot when she broke covert.xxn HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY LIFE I 251 place. some of the natives masked my fire. and attach themselves to one obtaining hope of some portion of the kill. she made good her the reeds. had joined the sentry had deserted his post and . to find the man had told to watch him still I on guard. By signal I ordered them to advance in line on the thicket in which the lioness had just taken refuge. as when one to spring hunting from nowhere in these plains natives in the most mysterious in the manner. found that To my my intense vexation. as the river. The line of natives shouting their native cries and striking their spears together soon disturbed her. of course. while speed jumpover such rocks and bushes as came in my way ing to have a shot at a lioness that was still in sight. Whether or not I hit her then I cannot say escape into until I any rate. and out she sprang into the open. again rushed off at full By seem this time my followers is numbered about thirty men. at Brock should arrive. expecting. where I decided to leave her . and I had consequently to wait until she got almost to the edge of the rushes. now retraced my steps towards the spot where I had shot the I lion. to making for a clump of rushes close Unfortunately she broke out at the most unfavourable spot from my point of view.

but that he still breathed. I when The I result his dis- could not where lay the lion which believed to fine be dead . and as there were numbers of trees fell. and thus going over the whole place thoroughly. by any chance he might not be dead but they paid little heed to the warning. however.252 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO men left CHAP. and was told that he was nearly so. was not so easy as might be thought the chase after the lioness had taken us some distance from where I had shot him. rather. obedience was that now the dead lion or. I to I have a look and went up shouted to them as hurried along to be careful and not to go too near. dividing the strips. and On getting near I very pleased and excited. other of the party. some half-dozen of them were in case gathered in a group at the lion's tail. He was . asked if the lion was dead. . gesticulating wildly and chattering each in his all own language. so jungle into began a systematic search. had more courage or at the beast. having become frightened of tell I by himself. A number of those nearest to him. curiosity. The task of finding him. both Indians and natives. . At last one of the lion men sang at the he had found the same time running away from the spot as hard as ever he could. it about similar to that under which he really a very difficult matter to hit was upon the right out joyfully that place. but I had no intention of losing so a trophy. and by the time I got up.

belief. for as took a step backwards. was more delighted than can he was indeed a very fine specimen. who had still remained I close behind me. Fortunately for had approached the lion's head with my rifle The impact ready. a way I hope never When this perilous situation so I unexpectedly developed itself. for flanks heaved with each respiration still absolutely with all the men but as he lay jabbering within a . He still breathed regularly. he were quite unhurt his eyes blazed and his lips were drawn well back. and as I stepped back I fired. and stepped round to have a The moment I came into his look at his head. his feet. he suddenly diabolical ferocity. me. was not more than The instant the lion rose. Possessed with this very foolishly allowed my curiosity to run away with my caution. as if became possessed of a With a great roar he sprang to . yard of him. I assumed that he was on the point of death and unable to rise. and when saw him I at close quarters tell. however. I almost trod on Roshan Khan. keeping my eye on the infuriated animal. with fury. all the men fled as if the Evil One himself were after them. and made I for the nearest trees with one exception. For a moment or two I stood with the group of natives. three paces away from him. in exposing his tusks and teeth to witness again.xxii HOW ROSHAN KHAN full I SAVED MY LIFE I 253 lying at length on his side. . I view. as his admiring him.

but in an he was up again and coming for me so quickly that I had not even time to raise my rifle to my shoulder. and saw the bullet raise the dust at the heels of a . Beyond all question this movement saved me. Help came from an unexpected muzzle of my and this and unconscious quarter. it if this were possible. levelled my and fired but whether because of the speed at which he was going. and suddenly fled for his screaming and shrieking with all his might. for just at this moment Roshan Khan seemed all at once to critical realise the danger of the situation. it now became my turn to do all I could to save him. gave chase instead to the yelling Roshan Khan having thus unwittingly rescued me from my perilous position. sight of something darting away from him diverted and following his the lion's attention from me. delaying him for a second or so as before. natural instinct. he fugitive. I In far less time than takes to tell the story. but fired point blank at him from my instant hip. the pursuing lion. or because of my over-anxiety " to save my boy ". as I was almost within his clutches. lightning.254 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO him back on his CHAP. had swung round rifle after . of the "303 bullet threw just as he haunches was in the act of springing. for the life. I missed him completely. He the was up again like rifle . and again time I at thought that nothing on earth could save me.

indeed. convulsed with uncontrollable mirth. and made me roar with laughter. The sight that met my eyes turned tragedy into comedy in an instant. what "was happening His puggaree had been torn off by one . the magazine. however. and just as he had Roshan Khan within striking distance and was about to seize him. indeed. earnestly bent on getting to the very topmost branch as quickly as ever he could climb . was so utterly absurd that I half-way up a thorn tree. was he able a glance at to spare to cast beneath. the of the sight brute his left youth caught shoulder. not a moment. it threw myself down on the grass and rolled over and over. I then looked round to see right. Just at moment. he dropped in the middle of what would otherwise assuredly have been the fatal spring bowled over with a broken shoulder.xxii HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY LIFE Like lightning I 255 flying Masai. if Roshan Khan was lion all as in I was not sure whether the had succeeded mauling him or not. he came broadside on to me. For there was Roshan Khan. but now it loaded again from the lion was within a spring to expect to of his prey. and seemed hopeless terrified save poor Roshan this Khan from over his clutches. As the lion turned to follow him. stone-dead. and providentially made a quick swerve to the right. This gave me time to run up and give him a final shot. and with a deep roar he fell back full length on the grass.

between himself and the dead could stop laughing. CHAP. and to my surprise and amusement proved themselves excellent mimics. been thoroughly and little wonder. One played the part of the lion and jumped growling at a comrade. some three or four of them beginning at once to act the whole adventure. indeed. Ta.256 thorn. seemed delighted at the way in which he his had been defeated. especially. and waved gracefully in the breeze a fancy waistcoat adorned another spiky branch. until he had reached the very top of . There was no stopping him. their wild from the resuscitated and crowded round dead body in the highest spirits. THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO . shouting " Ta. with the pseudo lion roaring of these proceedings At the end up came . I As soon him to as I called out to come down. Poor fellow. The Masai. duced to and even then he could scarcely be income down again. but quite the tree in vain. who immediately ran backwards just as I had done. and his long white cotton gown was torn to ribbons in his mad endeavour to put as great a distance as possible lion. Finally the whole audience roared with delight when another tree bolted as fast as he could to Roshan Khan's after him. he had terrified. My shelter followers now began various to of the trees emerge from the and bushes where after they had flight concealed themselves lion. Ta " and cracking his fingers to represent the rifle-shots.

more Our only other adventure was with a stolid old rhino. and as had no wish the knoll. so we to reluctantly abandoned the chase and were fated lions that day. Here see no our efforts to turn her out failed. on gaining the top of a gentle rise. Separated by about a hundred yards or so. You are the wards.xxii HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY LIFE who had been firing. however. It jumped I as it lay wallowing to its feet instantly I and came it. for I where stood. I suddenly came upon the ungainly animal in a hollow. to shoot made a dash for cover round On reaching s . we were walking over the undulating ground a short distance from the river. who gave me rather a fright and induced Brock to indulge in some lively exercise. so I stalked carefully I up from whose shelter the finishing shot. tree. 257 Brock. when. she was still very much when to a we reached neighbouring her. attracted to the place by the to sound of the see first He was much astonished a lucky beggar " ! my fine dead " lion lying stretched out. and his After- remark was. Like her alive mate. he rightly considered had first thought. and went on to the rushes where the second lioness had taken cover. me even more lucky than he Our next which I business was to go back to the lioness first had shot and left for dead. when he heard full story of the adventure. We then left gave her Mahina and the other men all to skin the two beasts.

to pull it who was very active. he turned to see how pursuer was behind. where we found that the invaluable Mahina had accordingly trophies. but confident that Brock. his rifle flying from his grasp. After this we returned to the scene of my morning's adventure. . In the meantime Brock had got to his feet again. however. and I sat on the rise and for the second time that day laughed till my sides ached. would manage far his off.258 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO rise. and doing so put his foot in a hole in the ground. and then. and to my horror fell head over heels. in in putting on his best pace an endeavour stood to reach the shelter of a tree which off. the top of the the rhino winded its and once changed Brock lost no time at direction my companion and made for him. When in he got about half-way to the tree. with perhaps the exception Roshan Khan. some distance while I I sat down and it watched the exciting race. We of made our way back camp with our of us. It was a most comical sight. but to my intense relief the old rhino I stopped dead when he saw the catastrophe which had taken place. well satisfied with the day's outing. and raced for dear life to the tree without ever looking round. suddenly made off in the opposite direction as hard as he could go. felt thought would be a pretty close thing. CHAP. all finished skinning the to two lions. in expected the great brute to be on him a moment. failing (I suppose) to understand it.

xxii HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY LIFE afterwards I 259 Whenever I wanted to chaff this " boy ". Sahib " (" Never again. had only to ask whether he would like to come and see some more shikar. shake his head emphatically and assure me " Kabhi nahin. He would then look very solemn. s 2 . Sir ").

too tired I drink. with a great deal of clanking and puffing. threw myself into a long deck chair. was touch-and-go whether it would manage to get its heavy load of rails and sleepers to the top of It . at I about three o'clock in the afternoon. and from dawn to dark exerted ourselves to the very utmost. the Nairobi was pushed forward as rapidly as possible. idly watching our tiny construction engine forging its -way.CHAPTER XXIII A SUCCESSFUL LION HUNT WHEN the Athi river section of the line to had been bridged. therefore. up a steep gradient just across the river. had been out in the broiling superintending the sun ever since daylight construction of banks and cuttings and the erection of temporary bridges. Here and anything beyond a long cool rested for an hour or so. we all One day and I (May 28) the weather was exceptionally hot. On returning to my hut. amused by for the bustle at the small wayside station we had just built.

Before answering. and asked him what he wanted." killed a zebra are now devouring On hearing this I straightway forgot that I had already done a hard I day's work in the full blaze of an equatorial sun . forgot that I was tired and hungry . " they have just it. clothed in a very inadequate piece of wildebeeste hide which was merely slipped under the left arm and He looped up in a knot over the right shoulder. to the last " fyrbali kidogo" question he was bound to answer . in fact. on his heels. I forgot everything that was not directly connected with the Even the old savage excitement of lion-hunting. turned round and saw a lean and withered half-bred Masai. at my feet grinned it. however. his old bones cracking two and lions. the fingers extended and the palm turned towards me I all indicating that he came on a friendly visit. and contest that I became so interested in the between steam and friction did not notice that a visitor and gravity. Naturally. he dropped down " I want to lead the Great Master to as he did so." he said. xxiii A SUCCESSFUL LION HUNT I 261 the incline or not.' when he saw how keen I was about both lions him with questions were they or lionesses ? had they manes ? how far I plied away were they? and so on. returned his salutation. had approached I and was standing quietly beside me. stood for a moment with the right hand held out on a level with his shoulder.CH. On hearing the usual salutation.

as he was afraid that they would seize all the zebra-meat that the lions had not However. Wa way we were Kamba. Master"). even more scantily the On joined by some attired than our guide. Of nothing ever is to a native of East Africa. but hoped to be back by nightfall. and within an hour six miles still there was no sign . who happened from camp just at the moment. and soon a dispute arose between these hangers-on and the old Masai. about six hundred yards off were a lion and a lioness busily engaged on the carcase of a zebra. that I had gone after two lions. getting to the low crest of one of the long swells in the ground. On using my field-glasses. on already eaten. Eventually. and sure enough. I told him not to bother. and that I would look after him all right. also left word my friend Spooner.262 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO course they were not far away . our guide extended a long skinny finger and said " proudly. the upshot was that in a very few minutes I had a mule saddled. However. CHAP. I . and with the old Masai as guide. I Tazama. We travelled at a fully had covered of lions. but to hurry up and show me the lions. who refused to allow them to accompany us. looked the direction in which he pointed. good pace. in Bwana " (" See. to be absent the District Engineer. started off accompanied by my I faithful Mahina and another the skin for if I coolie to help to bring home should prove successful.

the way. when the lion would make a him and scare him away. There was not an atom of cover to be seen. for it so I started to walk did not slope in the required direction in open in a sidelong direction towards the formidable-looking pair. he took a short run at the body.xxin A SUCCESSFUL LION HUNT to observe a jackal in attendance 263 was amused the pair. in this and putting his claws well manner tore off great strips of the hide. scampering off before short rush at the huge beast with his tail well down . The little jackal looked most ridiculous. As soon as they left . coming up selves on the to the top of the showed themat once. I except a jackal or a was also interested to notice the way in which the lion got at the flesh of the zebra . and then the lioness bolted. the lion following her at a more leisurely trot. my and followers became impatient my rise. They allowed me to come a hundred yards or so nearer them. into the skin. sky-line. close to on Every now and then he would come too the zebra. by than he crept nearer again. nor any chance of taking advantage the of the rolling . The lions saw them turning round and standing erect to stare at them. inactivity. ground. While I was thus studying at the picture. that a lion will eat every kind of animalincluding even other lions hyaena. but no sooner did the lion stop and return to his meal The natives say.

In the meantime the lion. and I saw that . as deserved. and after in sight when I reached the top of the rise. Accordingly I made for a point which would bring me about two hundred yards to the right of the lioness. the body of the zebra. I could plainly make out her light-coloured form in the grass. who mean- while had disappeared over another rise. and took careful aim and fired. to restore order I had and leave a coolie he to see that our guide got the largest share. rush for so that it. I now turned my attention to the lion. hearing the o 7 noise of the squabble. In an instant she was kicking on her back and tossing about. of bowling her over as she came up the rise towards me. and which would leave a deep natural hollow between us. with three or . and galloped as hard as luckily found the pair still jumped on could my mule him. halted on the hill crest of the dis- to take a deliberate look at I I me. By this time Mahina and the other Indian. so as to give me a better chance. but the lion continued to move steadily away.264 T HE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO my CHAP. in the event of a charge. the lioness took covert in some long grass that almost concealed her when she lay down. evidently hard hit in a few seconds more she lay perfectly still. African following made a and began a fierce fight over the remains. As soon as they saw me following them up. and then to appeared over the brow. she was dead.

pretended not to have seen him. at this range. fifty Raising rifle the sight another yards. as he seemed to be it thought best to risk a shot even put up the 2ooyards sight and the . and again missed I fortunately. then decided to put into practice the scheme thought out the day I sat astride the lion killed I I had had on the Kapiti Plain : so I told all my followers move off to the right. Nor was for we had scarcely topped the next of the disappointed. offering shot. for as the men moved round to so did the lion. and to make a half-circle round the animal. lurking I somewhere that if I the grass not far and knew could depend upon the native eye to find him he showed so I much as the tip of his ear. I lay motionless in the grass and succeeded admirably. taking the mule with them. while The ruse waited. and advanced to within two We hundred yards or getting uneasy. so felt A SUCCESSFUL LION the disappointed started off in a HUNT 265 Wa body Kamba. in I sure that he was off. I rested the on . however. when. bullet fell short but the lion never moved. the lion still remained quiet. rise when one Wa Kamba spotted the dark brown head of it the brute as he raised for an instant above the grass in order to watch us. steady aim and fired. with the result that he rolled over and over. and . Mahina's back for the next shot. had come in pursuit we of him.xxni four of up. I I so. however. I me at last a splendid shoulder took very careful.

and the last few miles do by the guidance of the Tramping over . It was almost dark when the skinning process was finished. A final shot laid him out. busy doing this. then I or two attempts to get up but failed. so without delay we started on our way camp. and through both he was still game. and twisted round so shoulders as to face me. giving vent all the time to savage helpless bullet he was with a growls. one of the at While we were suddenly Wa Kamba drew my attention to the fact that being stalked at that lions. It was a good two hours I after night had fallen before we got anywhere near was obliged to stars. but the men I morrow were unable sure that to find sent out to do the job on any trace of her lay. their big shaggy heads rising every now and again above the grass to give us a prolonged stare. for I they probably missed the place where she am I killed her.266 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO made one as CHAP. then ran up to within a few yards of him. the railway. however. we were actually very moment by two other who eventually approached to within five hun- dred yards' distance and then lay down to watch us skinning their dead brother. At the time I little knew next what a stirring adventure was in store for me day while in pursuit of these same brutes. The lioness I thought I should leave to be skinned the back to next day the . which was about seven miles off. and we once proceeded to skin him.

xxin A SUCCESSFUL LION HUNT 267 the plain on a pitch-dark night. so gave a reply rise. fired guessed once that was by I my good friend Spooner signal I . telling had I down comfortably to dinner fired him of Spooner's sporting ardour by the fine pair of lions who had watched us skinning their companion. about must have it. he holding the view that . order to guide to me. had come out with a number of the workmen I in camp in to search for me in the direction had taken the afternoon. with lions and rhino all about. When he found that had returned by nightfall. Spooner and I had often had many friendly arguments in regard to the comparative courage of the lion and the tiger. heartily was by no means pleasant work. lost I I in camp. and fearing that I had met with some mishap. and on getting plain the top of the next saw the in front of me I all twinkling with not lights. when my to my was beginning to think that I bearings and was getting anxious relief I I heard a at in rifle shot about it half a mile ahead of us. settled which was still When we that night. He was delighted to find lion's skin me safe and sound and with a I as a trophy. and we agreed at once to go out next day and try to bag them both. and wished myself and my men safely back Indeed. while to have his was equally glad escort and company back to camp. over a mile away. Spooner had become nervous about me.

the fray at least. "Stripes" was the more formidable while though admitting to the full the courage of the tiger. He may and not show fight . his conversion taking place the next day in a very melancholy manner. but get him in the mood. and only his death or yours will end that. xxm I. CH. or wound African him. lions. and most dangerous enemy at times slink off one could meet with. . I experience of East think that Spooner has now come was my round to my opinion.268 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO foe. maintained from lively personal experience that the lion when once roused was unequalled was in fact the for pluck and daring.

it I was quite midday before we made ready ought to mention before going further that as a rule Spooner declined my company on shooting trips. According to our over-night arrangement. start. we were up betimes in the morning. when one knows he around is safe behind iron bars . with a single blow he could tear to pieces. as he was convinced that I should get . all this roaring was of good omen for the next day's sport. but quite another to listen to in the vicinity him when he is ramping of one's fragile tent. but as there was a great deal of work to be done before we could get to away. which Still.CHAPTER XXIV BHOOTA'S LAST SHIKAR LONG awake after I had retired to to rest that night in I lay listening roar answering roar every direction round our camp. It is one thing to hear a lion in captivity. and realised that we were indeed in the midst of a favourite haunt of the king of beasts.

this was rather a bone of contention between us. Indeed." as he contemptuously termed my '303. Imam Din. rode a in the tonga. sooner or later if I persisted in going scuppered " after lions with a popgun. has precisely the same in this instance action it as one's own . while I always did my best to defend the On this 303 which I was in the habit of using. and certainly almost proved disastrous.270 " THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO " CHAP. Having thus seen to our rifles and ammunition in the and taken care also that some brandy was put luncheon-basket in case of an accident. but there no better way of getting about country like the Athi Plains. my and myself. occasion we effected a compromise for the day. we set off is early in the afternoon in Spooner's tonga." Now it may seem a strange plan to is go lion-hunting in a tonga. one of whom. he being a firm believer (and rightly) in a heavy weapon for big and dangerous game. so where long as it is dry there is little or . rifle I accepting the loan of his spare 12 -bore as a second gun in case I should get to close quarters. Spooner's Indian own gun-boy Mahina. while the other led " spare horse called Blazeaway. which a two-wheeled cart with a hood over consisted of Spooner it. and two other Indians. But my experience has been that it is always a very dangerous thing to rely on a borrowed gun or unless it rifle. The party shikari Bhoota.

as fresh meat was badly needed in camp besides. them. and here we allowed Bhoota. little After some time the excitement began by our spying the black-tipped ears of a lioness projecting above the grass. struck no doubt by the npvel appearance of our conveyance. they offered we rattled over the smooth expanse . and on the way bagged a hartebeeste and a couple of gazelle.xxiv BHOOTA'S LAST SHIKJR traffic. so we moved further on and had another good beat round. 271 nothing to obstruct wheeled Once at a started. Next we came upon a herd of wildebeeste. a slight covered with long grass but there was now no trace of them to be discovered. lions on the previous day . too. they both turned and slowly trotted lion stopping the every now and again to gaze round in our direction. After staring fixedly at us in an inquiring sort of way as we slowly advanced upon off. for they stood stock-still gazing at us. and did the job I At t\vo last we reached the spot where had seen the hollow. Very imposing and majestic he looked. servant of Spooner's. most tempting shots. defiantly towards shaggy head and Spooner had to admit his great . as he thus turned us. good rate. to stalk a solitary He was highly pleased admirably. and the next moment a very fine lion arose from beside her and gave us a full view of his grand head and mane. who was a wary shikari and an old bull. at this favour.

he had ever seen.272 that it THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO was the finest sight CHAP. she rose to her feet and followed the grass who had escaped uninjured. nearer As there seemed to be no we decided to open fire At first I prospect of getting at this range. As leave was now no late in the afternoon. and as there to seemed possibility of inducing the lions which they had concealed themselves.done for her. into some long from which we could not hope to dislodge it them. and at the third shot the lioness tumbled over to my 303. into by the the pair on rounding the however. intendthe thicket in ing to come out again the next day to track the . sight over a bit into of rising we jumped retreat. hit. whence we caught sight of them about four hundred yards away. although evidently . as for a few minutes she lay on the ground kicking and struggling but in the end. thought I had . For a while but rinding at length that they were getting away from us and lost to we followed them on foot would soon be ground. On getting to the other side. quickly the tonga and galloped round the base of the knoll so as to cut off their the excitement of the rough and bumpy ride being intensified a hundredfold probability of our driving slap rise. . so we drove on as hard as we could to the top. we turned back towards camp. they were nowhere to be seen. badly lion.

which sprang up out of the grass almost from beneath his when suddenly he and quickly scampered off. I 273 wounded and was trotting was now riding " Blazeaway " along in advance of the tonga. for they came slowly towards me for about ten yards or so and then lay down. lions not I Suddenly I felt " " was startled to see two fine the pair more than a hundred yards away. evidently which I had seen the day before and which really we had as if come in search of. and on looking over my left shoulder to discover the reason. I I me " steadily all the called out to Spooner. I pulled up for a moment and sat watching the hyaena's ungainly bounds. Here are the lions told in and you about. wondering whether he were worth a shot. By this time so I my '303 and dis- mounted. when they off. feet Blazeaway trembling violently beneath me. the arrangement being that Spooner was to take the right-hand one had got to within sixty yards' range without incident and were just about to and I the other.xxiv BHOOTA'S LAST SHIKAR lioness. We sit down comfortably to " " pot them. They looked they meant to dispute our passage." and he whipped up the ponies a moment or two was beside me with the had seized at tonga. watching time. we once commenced a cautious advance on the crouching lions. I suddenly surprised us by turning and bolting T . shied badly at a hyaena.

274

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO

CHAP.

managed, however, to put a bullet into the one I had marked just as he crested a bank, and he
looked very grand as he reared up against the For a sky and clawed the air on feeling the lead. second or two he gave me the impression that he

was about

to charge

;

but luckily he changed his

mind and followed
escaped scot
"

his
I

companion, who had so
"

far

away

Blazeimmediately mounted and galloped off in hot pursuit, and after
free.
stiff

about half a mile of very them once more. Finding
get away,

going got up with
that they could not
to

now

they

halted,

came

bay and

then

charged down upon me, the wounded lion leading. I had left my rifle behind, so all I could do was to
turn

could go, Blazeaway praying inwardly the while that he would not put When the lions saw that they his foot into a hole.
fly

and

as

fast

as

"

"

were unable to overtake me, they gave up the chase and lay down again, the wounded one being about

two hundred yards in front of the other. At once I pulled up too, and then went back a little way, keeping a careful eye upon them and I continued
;

these tactics of riding up and
distance until Spooner

down

at a respectful
rifles,

came up with the
it

when

we renewed the attack. As a first measure I thought
able the unhurt lion 303,
I

advisable to disstill

using the got him with the second shot at a range of
if

possible, and,

xxiv

BHOOTA'S LAST SHIK4R

275

about three hundred yards. He seemed badly hit, for he sprang into the air and apparently fell heavily. I then exchanged my -303 for Spooner's spare 12bore
lion,
rifle,

and we turned our attention
all this

to the nearer
still,

who

time had been lying perfectly

watching our movements closely, and evidently just waiting to be down upon us the moment we came
within charging distance. opportunity,

He was

never given

this

however,

for

nearer than ninety yards,

we did not approach when Spooner sat down

comfortably and knocked him over quite dead with one shot from his '577, the bullet entering the left
shoulder obliquely and passing through the heart. It was now dusk, and there was no time to be
lost
if

we meant

to

bag the second

lion

as well.

resumed our cautious advance, moving to the right as we went, so as to get behind us what The lion of course light there was remaining.
twisted round in the grass in such a
to
I

We therefore

way

as always

keep facing us, and looked very ferocious, so that was convinced that unless he were entirely disfirst

abled by the
a whirlwind.

shot he would be
I

down on

us like

All the same,

felt

confident that,

even

in

this

event, one

of us would

succeed

in
;

stopping

but

in

him before he could do any damage I was unfortunately to be proved this

mistaken.

Eventually we managed to get within eighty yards T 2

276

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
I

CHAP.

of the enraged animal,
to

being about

five

yards

the

left

front
at

of Spooner,

who was

followed

by Bhoota
rear.

By

about the same distance to his right this time the lion was beside himself

with fury, growling savagely and raising quite a cloud of dust by lashing his
It
tail

against the ground.

was

clearly high

time
fire,
I

that
I

we

did something,

so asking Spooner to

dropped on one knee
in suspense, for the

and waited. Nor was

kept long

moment Spooner's shot rang out, up jumped the lion and charged down in a bee-line for me, coming in
I fired the right low bounds at great speed. barrel at about fifty yards, but apparently missed the

long,

;

left

at

effect.

about half that range, still without stopping I knew then that there was no time to reload,

so remained kneeling, expecting

him

to be

on me the

Suddenly, just as he was within a bound of me, he made a quick turn to my right.
next moment.

"Good
flash

heavens,"
I

I

thought,
in this,

"he

is

going

for

Spooner."

was wrong

however,

for like a

he passed Spooner also, and with a last tremendous bound seized Bhoota by the leg and rolled
over and over with

him

for

some yards
throat,

in

the

impetus of the rush.

Finally he

stood over him

and

tried

to

seize

him by the
into
at

which the
stuffing

brave fellow prevented by courageously
his
left
!

arm

right

the
the

great
critical

jaws.

Poor

Bhoota

By moving

moment, he

xxiv

BHOOTA'S LAST SHIKAR
diverted the
lion's

277

had

attention

from

me and

had drawn the whole fury of the charge on to
himself.

All this, of course,

happened

in

only a second or
I

two.

In the short instant that intervened,

felt

a

cartridge thrust into
servant,

my hand

by Spooner's plucky

Imam
all

Din,

who had
1

carried the

2 -bore

day and

who had
gallantly

stuck to

me

throughout
;

the

charge
it in, I

and
rushed
could

shoving
to

as quickly as

I

Bhoota's

rescue.

Meanwhile,

Spooner
:<

had got there before me and when I came

SPOONER'S PLUCKY SERVANT, IMAM
DIN."

up actually had
vain

his left

hand on the

lion's flank, in

a

attempt to push him off Bhoota's prostrate body and so get at the heavy rifle which the poor
fellow
still

stoutly clutched.

The lion, however, was
arm
that he paid
efforts.

so busily engaged mauling Bhoota's

not the slightest attention to Spooner's
fortunately, as
tion,
I

Un-

had
I

to

he was facing straight in my direcmove up in full view of him, and the
in

moment
the

reached his head, he stopped chewing

arm,

though

still

holding
his

it

his

mouth,

and threw himself back on

haunches, prepar-

278

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
the

CHAP.

ing for a spring, at
his
lips
I

same time curling back
a

and exposing

his long tusks in

savage

snarl.

knew then
I

that

I

had not a moment

to spare, so

threw the

rifle

up

to

and

trigger. Imagine and horror when it did not go off! " Misfire spair again," I thought, and my heart almost stopped As I took a step backwards, I felt it was beating.

pulled

the

my shoulder my utter de-

all

he would never give extract the cartridge and load again.
over now,
for

me
Still

time to
I

took

another step backwards, keeping my eyes fixed on the lion's, which were blazing with rage and in the
;

middle of

my

third

step, just as

the brute

was

gathering himself for his spring, it suddenly struck me that in my haste and excitement, I had forgotten
that
I

was using a borrowed

rifle

and had not pulled

back the hammer (my own was hammerless). To do this and put a bullet through the lion's brain

was then the work of a moment
instantly right

;

and he

fell

dead

on the top of Bhoota.

We

did not lose a

moment

in rolling his great

carcase off Bhoota's body and quickly forced open

the jaws

so

which

still

disengage the mangled arm, remained in his mouth. By this time
as
to

the poor shikari was in a fainting condition, and
flew to the tonga for the brandy flask which

we
a

we had

so providentially brought with us.

On making

rough examination of the wounded man, we found that his left arm and right leg were both frightfully

xxiv

BHOOTA'S LAST SHIK4R

279

mauled, the latter being broken as well.
lifted

He

was

tenderly into the tonga
to

how

thankful
at

we now
once set

were

have

it

with us

!

and Spooner
the doctor.

off with

him

to

camp and

Before following them home I made a hasty examination of the dead lion and found him to be a

very good specimen
satisfied

every way. I was particularly to see that one of the two shots I had fired
in

as

he charged down upon me had taken effect. The bullet had entered below the right eye, and
Unfortunately
it

only just missed the brain.
steel

was a

one which Spooner had unluckily brought in his ammunition bag by mistake still one would
;

have thought that a shot of this kind, even with a hard bullet, would at least have checked the lion for
the moment.
clean

As

a matter of

fact,

however,

it

went

through
effect.

him without

stopping
lead,

My

last

having the slightest bullet, which was of soft
*

right eye and embedded itself in the brain. By this time it had grown almost dark, so I left the two dead lions where they lay and rode for camp, which I was lucky

had

entered

close

to

the

enough
mishap.

to
I

reach

without

further

adventure
early

or

may mention
;

here

that

next

morning two other lions were found devouring the one we had first shot but they had not had time to
do much damage, and the head, which
I

have had

mounted, makes a very fine trophy indeed. lion that mauled Bhoota was untouched.

The

2 8o

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
arrival in

CHAP.

On my
that

camp

I

found that everything

was possible was being done for poor Bhoota by Dr. McCulloch, the same who had travelled up with
to

me
on

Tsavo and shot the
first

ostrich from the train

my

arrival

in

the country, and

who was

His wounds had been skilfully on the spot. dressed, the broken leg put in splints, and under the influence of a soothing draught the poor fellow was
luckily

soon sleeping peacefully. At first we had great hope of saving both life and limb, and certainly for

some days he seemed
as could be expected.

be getting on as well The wounds, however, were
to

very bad ones, especially those on the leg where the
long tusks had met through and through the flesh, the arm, leaving over a dozen deep tooth marks
;

It was though dreadfully mauled, soon healed. wonderful to notice how cheerfully the old shikari

bore

and a pleasure to listen to his tale of how he would have his revenge on the whole tribe
it

all,

of lions as soon as he was able to get about again.

But

alas, his

shikar was over.

The
in,

leg got rapidly
it

worse, and mortification setting

had

to

be

amputated half way up the thigh. Dr. Winston Waters performed the operation most skilfully, and

enough the operating table was canopied with the skin of the lion which had been responcuriously
sible for the injury.

Bhoota made a good recovery from the operation, but seemed to lose heart when he found that he had only one leg left, as according

and died on after a brother . The Author.XXIV BHOOTA'S LAST SHIKAR 281 to his ideas he had now but a poor chance of being allowed to enter Heaven. We did all that was possible for him. The hunt which had proved in to be the last such a disastrous sequel occasion on which I met a lion got out of the hunting country shortly afterwards and for the rest of my stay in East Africa I had too much work to do to be the open.] A COLLECTION OF TROPHIES. as able to we go any distance in search of big game. . Imam Din. and Spooner especially could not have looked to more tenderly but our great sorrow he sank gradually. ioner. Bhoota. July 19.

in his inspection I Poor Ryall little carriage on the railway. in his efforts to obtain a and one meal. master. or the pointsman night. he actually climbed up on to the roof of the station buildings and tried to tear off the corrugated. Ryall. indifferent as to whether he carried off the station.CHAPTER XXV A MAN-EATER IN A RAILWAY CARRIAGE TOWARDS Africa. A little man-eating lion had taken up his quarters at a roadside station called Kimaa. quite railway staff.iron sheets. I the end of my stay in British East dined one evening with Mr. ! thought then what a terrible fate was to overtake him only a few months later in that very carriage in which we dined. and had devel- oped an extraordinary taste for the members of the He was a most daring brute. the signalman. in At this the terrified baboo charge of the telegraph instrument below sent the following laconic message . the Superintendent of the Police.

poor Ryall met his tragic and untimely June 6. and succeeded in frightening away for the time being. accompanied by . Another night. On one occasion an engine-driver arranged to iron water-tank in the sit up all night in a large at him. paralysed with fear and had to crouch so low down as to be unable to take anything like proper aim. xxv the MAN-EATER IN RAILWAY CARRIAGE Traffic 283 to Manager in his " : Lion fighting with station. in the top through which he Fortunately the tank was just too deep for the brute to be able to reach the man but the latter was naturally half at the bottom had squeezed . Send urgent succour. It was in a vain attempt to destroy this pest that On end. however. leaving large bloodstains on the in roof. hope of getting a shot and had a loop-hole cut in the side of the tank from which to fire.CH. he succeeded carrying off the native driver of the pumping-engine. the hunter became the hunted middle of . He fired. the lion turned the up in the the night." " was not victorious Fortunately he " fight with the station . But as so often happens. and soon afterwards added several other victims to his list. but he tried so hard to get in that he cut his feet badly on the iron sheeting. however. 1900. overthrew tank and actually tried to drag the driver out through the narrow circular hole in. he was travelling up in his inspection the lion carriage from Makindu to Nairobi.

CHAP. while he kept the first watch. Huebner occupied the high berth over the table on the one side of the carriage. where. the only other berth being on the opposite side of the compartment and lower down. This Ryall . did not stand perfectly level. In the afternoon the lion. it owing list to the unfinished state ot the line. Huebner and Mr. but only noticeable they what they took to be two very bright and steady glowworms. Parenti.284 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO friends. Ryall's carriage was accordingly detached from they at the train once made and shunted into a siding close to the station. so up their minds to remain there for the night and endeavour to shoot him. Ryall persuaded his two friends to down. but had to a pronounced one out side. two Mr. which about two hundred told that and fifty miles from Mombasa. After events proved that these could have been nothing else than the eyes of the man-eater steadily watching them all the time and studying their every movement. Afterwards they the all sat up on guard thing for some time saw was . is When they reached Kimaa. the three friends went to look for but finding no traces of him whatever. The hour now growing lie late. they returned to the carriage for dinner. they were their train the man-eater had been seen close to the station only a short time before arrived. and there being apparently no sign of the lion.

than the cunning he had railway to mount two very high but these he steps from to the line. wheels. would be quite comfortable on the accordingly lay the sliding and he down to sleep. or at any rate not secured in any way. It is supposed that time. berth and dozed off.xxv MAN-EATER IN RAILWAY CARRIAGE declined it. 1285 offered to Parenti. after watching to for some considerable must have come the its conclusion that the lion was not going to make appearance that night. it But owing to the tilt of the carriage and to his on the one side. but him had actually to plant his feet on Parenti. with his feet towards door which gave admission to the carriage. Ryall. who. which ran very easily on a brass runner and as was probably not quite shut. who saying that he floor . managed negotiate this successfully and in silence. doubtless. The door from platform into the carriage was a sliding one on . in sprang at once at Ryall. He order to reach it . reach the little platform at the end of the carriage. for he lay down on the lower No sooner had he done man-eater began In order to cautiously to stalk the three sleepers. thus leaving him shut up with the three sleeping men in the compartment. the door slid to great extra weight and snapped into the lock the moment he got his body right in. it was an easy matter for the lion to thrust in a paw and shove it open. so.

but appears that in horror of the moment he actually did fortunately the his lion sounds scarcely the excitement and this. was sleeping on the floor. A moment afterwards a great crash was heard. it when the trembling coolies their instantly tied up again with turbans.286 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO be remembered. to fast his dismay. will At moment Huebner was suddenly awakened by a loud cry. he found that it was held on the other side by the terrified coolies. who had been aroused by the disturbance caused by the lion's In utter desperation he made frantic entrance. managed to reach the but there. and that was through the panic-stricken at the sight. for the its great bulk It up all space beneath his berth. But in order to reach to the door Huebner had literally to jump on filled man-eater's back. and victim to was too busily engaged with pay any attention to him. while his forepaws rested on poor Ryall. So he door in safety . Small wonder that he was feet There was only one possible way of escape. and the . CHAP. it credible. managed and exerting all his strength at pull it back sufficiently far to allow him to squeeze through. and on looking down from his berth was this horrified to see an enormous lion standing with his hind on Parenti's body. efforts to last open to it. which was opposite to that by which the this lion had entered. second sliding door communicating with the servants' quarters.

that poor Ryall's death . and floor. carrying off poor Ryall with him. 287 whole carriage lurched violently to one side the lion had broken through one of the windows. AND THEN SHOT. Being now released.xxv MAN-EATER IN RAILWAY CARRIAGE ." escape was little short of miraculous. the wood-work of the window had been broken by the passage of the in his is to pieces lion as he sprang through with his victim All that can be hoped mouth. Parenti lost no time in jumping through the win- dow on for the opposite side of the carriage. as the lion had been actually standing on him as he lay on the The carriage itself was badly shattered. his "HE WAS KEPT ON VIEW FOR SEVERAL DAYS. and fled to refuge one of the station buildings .

xxv was instantaneous.A. . and were taken to Nairobi for burial. the terrible am this glad to be able to add that very shortly afterwards brute who was responsible for tragedy was caught in an constructed by one of the railway awful ingenious staff.MI'AI. His remains were found next in the I morning about a quarter of a mile away bush. l. trap He was kept on view for several days. and then shot.288 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CH.

and was bemoaning to me his bad luck in never having shot or even seen a lion all the time he had been in the country." " ." he retorted out hunting. ling I the lion which caused poor Bhoota's last I was the managed line at to shoot in East saw several others afterwards while different I travel- up and down the times on construction work. I when few days. " were standing on the the time. I do nothing else when am . facing each other. he with his " I We My dear Mac. In particular. engine at back to the north.CHAPTER XXVI WORK AT NAIROBI ALTHOUGH death Africa." said. remember one very curious incident which happened early on the morning of June was travelling towards The Nairobi." " I Rubbish. Doctor was going home on leave in the course of a 2. accompanied by Dr. McCulloch. it is because you don't look out for them.

" I CHAP. Needless to say he was tremendously delighted with his success. Mac." Just continued." " driver. evidently just killed.290 " THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO Well. "are you really very anxious to " shoot one before you go home ? " I would rather get a lion than anything else the world. and after the dead lion had been carried to the train and . Just as he I was about one of them bolted." I Now. " in was the emphatic then. other quickly before he too made good This one was looking at us over his shoulder with one paw on the dead wildebeeste. a chance jump round off and bag those two over blank astonishment and eyes there." called to the "stop the engine. as " the here's train was quickly brought to a standstill. for you. so called out to him shoot the his escape." He turned in could hardly believe fine lions only his when he saw two engaged in about two hundred yards off. and while he stood bullet in this attitude Mac dropped him with a through the heart. the engine in a second and He to fire to was off made directly for the two beasts. reply. so as to give him a greater surprise. busily devouring a wildebeeste which they had I had spotted them almost as soon as Mac had begun to talk of his bad luck. replied. I Very good. Sultan. and had only waited to tell him until we got nearer.

" was an immense amount of work to be done in converting an absolutely bare plain.XXVI 291 propped up against a carriage. turnu 2 . three hundred and twenty-seven miles from the nearest place where even a nail could be purchased. I took a photograph of him standing beside his fine trophy. into a Roads and bridges had to busy railway centre. houses and work-shops built. given charge of the new Nairobi was to be the head- quarters of the Railway Administration. so there " I TOOK A I'HOTOC. Three days after this incident railhead reached Nairobi. be constructed. and I was division of the line.RAI'H OF HIM STANDING RKSIDF: HIS KINK TROl'HY.

a water supply on. out the plague. the news on to On my one occasion. I passed Dr. but unfortunately I could never spare time to go out in quest of them. They frequently brought me in word that the shambas (plantations. however. we now were. which did not reappear during the time I was in With a several little persuasion of the I managed Kikuyu. station quarters erected. two I of plague the broke out before very so inhabited it gave an hour's notice natives to and Indians who clear out. the nucleus present town began take shape. as but all the same it effectually stamped the country. . gardens) at the back of the hill on which my camp was pitched were being destroyed by elephants. was mildly called over the coals. come and to in induce hundred Wa to whose at country Nairobi. friend. of the Wonderfully soon. and a hundred to and one other of things done which go the making to a railway township. and on my own responsibility promptly burned the whole place to the ground. work and very useful and capable they proved little themselves after a training. For this somewhat arbitrary proceeding I I expected .292 tables laid THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO and CHAP. a or case long. however. however. Winston Waters. and a a thriving "bazaar" sprang into existence with mushroom-like growth. In this.

and determined let and left although barrel Waters well. he soon scrambled out. He set out in quest of the depredator. it quickly him have the .xxvi WORK AT NAIROBI 3 with the result that he had a most exciting adventure with a big bull elephant. but to fly for all dear life . As for Waters. so down a path raced Waters for he was worth. soon came upon him hidden among some Waters was a great believer in a shady trees. The elephant responded by a prompt charge. This sudden descent of his enemy he stepped on to the false apparently into the bowels of the earth so startled the elephant that he stopped short in his career and made off into the jungle. screaming and trumpeting with rage. for the huge but at the critical on him . There was nothing for it. monster moment cover of a carefullyconcealed game pit and disappeared from view as if by magic. as the at the bottom nor very pit was neither staked deep . In a few seconds matters began to look very serious for the was almost sportsman. the ele- phant giving vigorous chase and gaining rapidly. aiming for the heart. guided by a few of the Wa Kikuyu. close shot. as proved of no effect and on he came. following up . and. he was luckily none the worse for his fall. so he stalked up to within a few yards of the animal and then fired his "577. therefore. and.

my Wa Kikuyu came me. my . A in I started called to cold. I could hardly imagine of myself arriving four hundred in London with a body-guard less I more or only with difficulty that naked savages. succeeded in finishing CHAP. children ". The ever- Mahina. I Towards the end of 1899 few days before " I left for all England. my "boy" Roshan Khan. as they themselves. but they assured me that these were nothing to them. " as they only wished to continue to go.294 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO wounded elephant." and its great distance from their native land . a body and begged pictured to them the be taken with wet climate of England 'SUCCEEDED IN FINISHING HIM OFF WITHOUT FURTHER TROUBLE. the off" him without further trouble. my " children and wherever I went. but it was persuaded them that they had better remain faiihful in their own country.

where they bade me a for sorrowful I farewell and left India the day before sailed on my homeward journey. . STEAMER I'NI. and a few other coolies who had been to a long time with me.XXVI WORK AT NAIROBI 295 honest chankidar Meeanh.OADINC. AT KISl'MU. accompanied me the coast. ON LAKE VICTORIA NYAN/A.

or . I wanted very much to spend a day or two in the old place. I took the trouble. TANA RIVER. deserved. but my companions were anxious to push on as quickly as possible to better hunting-grounds. at midnight. half wondering every moment if the ghosts of the two man-eaters would spring at me out of the bushes. Naturally I could not expect them. to wake them out of their peaceful slumbers in order to point out to by the pale moonlight. . CHAPTER XXVII THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND DURING the early part of last year (1906) I revisited the scene of my former labours and adven- tures on a shooting which I Unfortunately the train by travelled up from Mombasa reached Tsavo trip. but all the same I got out and prowled about as long as time would permit. the strength and beauty of the Tsavo bridge but I fear this delicate as it little attention was scarcely appreciated them. however.THE GRAND FALLS.

"THE PLACE OF FALLING WATER" (ELDAMA RAVINE). to . but the ordinary traveller of course knows nothing of this and doubtless thinks it only a very commonplace and indeed. brought stress up through and danger and troubles of all SHIMONE. now a flourish- .CH. xxvii THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND else. 297 anyone of view I view the bridge quite from my point looked on it as a child of mine. insignificant structure We spent a few days at Nairobi. kinds.

We all got a fair amount of . cool and bracing.000 inhabitants. Victoria Nyanza and Uganda. and the climate way. including a well and after a short trip to Lake laid-out race course . we made our way back to the Eldama Ravine. some 6. which Here we lies some twenty bioO miles north of Landiani Station in the province of Naivasha. which to am glad to say proved be a most delightful and interesting one in every The country was lovely. supplied with every modern comfort and luxury. started in earnest on our I cyame expedition.THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO ing town of CHAP.

our including rhino. Our on party of including one lady left who rode and shot equally January 22. roan antelope. pala. straight. I but for the present must confine myself to a short account of how I ROAN ANTELOPE. ostrich. hartebeeste. the off Kldama Ravine in and trekked an easterly direction across the Laikipia Plateau. waterbuck. five. wildebeeste. . was lucky enough to shoot a specimen of an entirely new race of eland. etc. oryx.xxvn THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND bag- 299 sport. im- reedbuck. hippo. As the trail which we were to take was very little known and .

we had also to engage an the interpreter. District CHAP." Uashin Gishu Masai named Uliagurma. the kindly Officer at the Ravine. an excellent. NAMED LANDAALU. very a procured us a reliable man young "AN EXCELLENT. cheery fellow of same tribe named Landaalu . . But as he could not speak a word of Swahili.300 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO impossible to follow without a guide. almost Mr. CHEERY FELLOW. . and he in his turn . Foaker.

took us through the Solai Swamp. I noticed that Uliagurma. Strange to say. though uncomplainingly.xxvn THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND who insisted 301 possessed a kinsman on coming too. and grateful that he spread my Uliagurma was so fame as a " medicine- . my doctoring most successful. and across many rivers and streamlets. Our route although he was no earthly use to us. our kirongozi was suffering extremely. from earache. march (guide). so I told him to come lo me when we proved got to camp and I would see what I could do for him. over the Multilo and Subu unexpected Ko Lultian ranges. On our first CROSSING A STREAM ON THE COOK'S BOX.

and visited our camp in swarms an hour or so after our arrival. I used to do what I could. women in and children every state of disease and crippledom came and besieged our camps. we pitched our river. and no sooner had cleared the . and wide among the natives wherever we The consequence was that men. however. Riding my pony ance in their and accompanied by Landaalu as interpreter. . on the banks of Angarua where camp we found a big Masai kraal. After we had climbed the Subu Ko Lultian and got a footing on the plateau. to asked that there was any game about and was told some might be found a few miles . man far trekked. friendly. of them and only hope I did not injure many but it was heartrending to see some of the I quite hopeless cases was expected the to cure. when the cliuorani (warriors) gave for entertainment an exhibition of the gymnastic exercises which they practise regularly in order more render particularly them if strengthen their legs and After the performance I supple. was a perfect belt afternoon. the inhabitants of which seemed much astonished at our sudden appear- They were very neighbourhood. I returned their in afternoon.302 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO " CHAP. call and the my my gun-bearer Juma. begging for some of the magical dawa (medicine). to the north of the kraal so I set out at once with Landaalu It I and Juma to try my luck.

I game away on the the feeding peacefully steadily rolling prairie. aid of the my glasses in I saw a herd of zebra and other distance. of eland were gradually drawing away from the rest of the herd. made my way I towards them. and noticed as went that a couple CROSSING THE ANGAKUA RIVER. fully I marked these for my own.xxvii THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND when by 303 of scrub which grew round the kraal. My succeeded continued admirably. to the two fine plan animals come straight towards me without . and care- I disnoting the direction they were taking. mounted and made a detour round a rise so as to lie in wait for them and cut them for off.

3 o4

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
by the way.
I

CHAP.

suspicion, feeding quietly

When

they

got to within eighty

yards or so,

picked out the

bigger head and was only waiting for him to make a slight turn before pulling the trigger, when bang

went the heavy

rifle

half a mile away.

companions about In an instant the two eland had
of one of

my

bounded

off,

and

I

decided not to risk a shot,
settle

in

the

hope that they would soon
give

down again and
firing

me

another chance.

Mentally blessing

my

friend

for

at

this

untimely moment, I watched them belt of wood about a mile further
against hope
side that they

make
on,

for

a

hoping would remain on the near
luck,

of

it.

No
it

such

however,

for

they

plunged
out of

into

my

and were quickly swallowed up sight. Running to my pony, which
I

Landaalu had dexterously brought up,
in

galloped

the

direction

of the

spot
;

in

the

trees

where
vexa-

the eland had disappeared
tion

but imagine

my

up sharp on the edge of a nasty-looking swamp, which at first sight appeared too boggy and treacherous to
I

when

I

found that

had

to pull

attempt to cross.

I

rode up and

down

it

without

being able to find anything like a really safe crossing
place, so in desperation
I

at last

determined to take

along an old rhino path where the reeds were flattened down. My pony floundered
the risk of crossing
it

bravely through, and eventually succeeded

in get-

xxvii

THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND
I

305

ting safely to the other side.

then

made my way
was relieved
I

cautiously through the belt of trees, and
to find that
it

was only half a mile or so broad.

RKEDBUCK.

dismounted as

I

neared the further side, and, tying

my pony

to a tree, crept quietly forward, expecting
;

to see the eland not far off

but to

my

disappoint-

ment there was no

trace of

game

of any kind on the

x

306

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO

CHAP.

whole wide stretch of country that met my view. I therefore tried another direction, and, taking a half
turn
to

my

left,

made my way
to the top of

carefully through

some open glades
far off.

a

little

rise

not

The

sight that
;

now met my eyes

fairly

took

my

breath away

for there, not three

and stalking placidly along at herd of fully a hundred eland of

hundred yards off a slow walk, was a
all

ages and

sizes.

The

column was brought up by a magnificent old bull, and my heart jumped for joy as I watched him from the shelter of the bushes behind
rear of the

which

I

lay concealed.

The

next thing to be done

was

to decide

on a plan of

attack,

and

this

had

to

be

thought of without loss of time, for the wind was blowing from me almost in the direction of the
eland,
I

who would
not

certainly scent

me

very soon

if

did
in

tion
all

Quickly noting the direcwhich they were moving, I saw that if
get

away.

went well they ought

to pass close

to a little

hillock about a mile or so off;

and

if

I

were very

thought I could make a circuit through the wood and be on this rise, in a good position for both wind and cover, before the
sharp about
it,

I

herd could

reach

it.

Accordingly

I

crept

away

with the object of finding

my

mount, but to

my

stood delight just behind me and well hidden the undefeated Landaalu, who in some mysterious

xxvir

THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND
followed
it

307

way had
had
left

me
a

up, found the

tied

to

tree,

pony where I and brought it on to me.

bright grin on his face he thrust the reins into my hand, and I was up and galloping off in an
instant.
I

With a

soon discovered that
I

I

had further
to

to

go than

big detour order to keep out of sight of the herd but on once or twice and peeping through the trees halting
I

expected, for

was forced

make a

in

;

I

saw that

still

last

was going well and that they were The calmly moving on in the right direction. of a mile had to be negotiated in quarter
all
I

found that by lying flat down on my pony's back I was completely hidden from the advancing herd by an intervening swell in the
the open, but

In this manner I managed to get unground. observed to the lee of my hillock, where I dis-

mounted, threw the reins over a stump, and crawled
stealthily but

could to the top. I was in great doubt as to whether I should be in
I

as quickly as

time or not, but on peering, hatless, over the crest, I was overjoyed to find the whole herd just below

me.

One
at once,
It

of the eland, not twenty yards

off,

saw

me

and stood

still

to gaze at
I

me

in astonish-

ment.

was a female, however, so
looked round
near.
to

took no notice

of her, but

see

if

my

great bull
;

were anywhere

Yes, there he was
I

he had

passed the spot where

lay,

but was not more than

x

2

3 o8

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
off,

CHAP.

forty yards

as

when

I

moving in the same leisurely fashion An instant later, he first saw him.

noticed the general alarm caused by

my

appearance,

and stopped and turned half round to see what was This gave me my opportunity, so I the matter.
fired,

The way in aiming behind the shoulder. which he jumped and kicked on feeling the lead told

me

got two more bullets into him from the magazine of my '303 before he managed to gain the shelter of a neighbouring In the meantime the thicket and was lost to sight.
I

had

hit

him hard, and

I

whole herd had thundered
pearing
I

off at

full

gallop,

disap-

in

a few minutes in a cloud of dust.
little difficulty

was confident that there would be
finding

in

the

wounded

eland,

and on Landaalu

coming up
to

which, by the way, he did almost im-

mediately, for he was a wonderful goer

we

started

make

a rough search through the thicket.

Owing

to the

growing darkness, however, we met with no success, so I decided to return to camp, which was

many

miles

away, and to

resume the

quest

at

daybreak the following morning. It turned out that we were even further from home than I thought,

and black night came upon us before we had covered
a quarter of the distance.

Fortunately the invalu-

able Landaalu had discovered a

good crossing over the swamp, so we were able to press on at a
good pace without losing any time
in

overcoming

xxvn

THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND

309

the obstacle.

we
by

After an hour or so of hard travelling, were delighted to see a rocket go up, fired
friends
to

my
is

guide us on our way.

Such a
far

sight

wonderfully cheering

when one

is

away

from camp, trudging along in the inky darkness and none too certain of one's direction and a rocket
;

equipment should
before
to

invariably

be

carried

by the

traveller in the wilds.

we

Several more were sent up got anywhere near camp, and I remarked

Landaalu that we must have gone a very long " way after the eland. Long way," he replied
;

"

why, Master, we have been

to

"

Baringo

!

This
away.

lake as a matter of fact

was
I

fully fifty miles fired

When

finally

we

arrived

the ardour of

my
had

companions by relating the adventures of the noon and telling them of the wonderful herd
seen
;

afterI

and

it

was

at

once agreed that we should stay

where we were

for a

day or two

in

the hope of

good sport being obtained. As soon as it was daylight the next morning
sent out a party of our porters with
full

I

instructions

where

to find

my

eland,

which

I

was sure must

be lying somewhere in the thicket close to the hill from where I had shot him and very shortly afterwards we ourselves made a start. After a couple of
;

hours' travelling
sight

we were
of the
stalked

lucky enough

to

catch

of a

portion

herd of

eland,

when

we dismounted and

them

carefully through

3 io

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
All of a sudden one
fifty

CHAP.

the long grass.

popped up

its

head unexpectedly about

yards away.

One
at

of
it,

companions immediately levelled his rifle but from where I was I could see better

my

than

he that the head was a poor one, and so called
out
late,

to

him not

to
at

fire.

however, for
It

that

The warning came moment he pulled
too,

too

the

trigger.

was rather a

difficult shot,

as the

body of the animal could not be seen very well owing to the height of the grass as the head still,
;

instantly disappeared

we hoped

for the best

and ran

up

to the place, but

no trace of the eland could be

found.
little

Accordingly we pushed on again and after a rested for a short time under the shade of some

trees.

We

had

gone
for

about

three

miles

after

game, when one of the porters remembered that he had left the water-bottle he was carrying at the trees where we had halted, so resuming our search
he was sent back
for
it

with

strict injunctions to

make

haste and to rejoin us as quickly as possible.
trifling incident

Curiously enough, this
providential
;

proved quite

for

the

porter

(whose

name was

recovering the water-bottle, found himself unable to trace us through the jungle and
Sabaki),
after

accordingly

On his way camp. back he actually stumbled over the dead body of the eland which I had shot the previous day and which
struck

home

for

the search party

I

had sent out

in the

morning had

and then carried it to the camp. homewards. Shortly after noon we had it a light lunch. who was in a great . however. This interference was naturally strongly resented by the bees. This the jolly fellow saying that if soon go and get the honey. Uliagurma and in Landaalu. discovered a bees' nest a fallen tree and proceeded to try to extract the honey. he only had a jacket like mine he would I gave him my jacket at once. a Masai. it When was . the nest was properly examined. to be put to flight by a few bees. as it was very short and he had practically nothing else on. we knew nothing of all this. We were met by Sabaki.xxvn THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND They were still 311 failed to find. of course. of which the Masai are very fond. and chaffed him unmercifully for allowing himself. and while we were eating our guides. and soon the semi-naked youths ran flying past us with the I angry swarm in full pursuit. at however. looking for it close at hand. so Sabaki hailed them and they once set to work to skin and cut up the animal. about dusk. found that the so after taking at bees had eaten all the honey guides some photographs of our the work among bees we all pro- ceeded reaching camp with nothing to show for our long day's hunt. laughed heartily at Landaalu. Meanwhile. and a most comical figure he cut in it. took very good-humouredly. and continued our hunt for game.

that materially from those any other eland that had ever seen. did I not long after but even then. How know to till great this good fortune was . For one . as it was very much bigger than the and it was not till later one he had fired at . in the at evening when the I visited Landaalu. He not greeted me by saying that after gone to Baringo for nothing the previous day. On viewing the head. xxvn state in and who started to explain very bad Swahili how he had come across the dead eland. I quickly called up Sabaki and after some trouble got from him the whole story of how he had found taking it we had for the body close to my little hillock it. when I came found of examine the head and skin they both differed I carefully. curled up camp fire. granted that I knew it was mine.3 i2 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO of excitement. that the mystery was exall plained. and near where my men ledged were searching to for So at I broke the truth gently my friend. CH. and rejoiced him at this piece of good luck. and on my asking him what he meant he told me about the finding of the eland. we could not understand it. who once acknow- my claim and congratulated me on my I good fortune. Misunderstanding what he said. I told my friend that Sabaki had found the eland in which he had shot heartily with the morning. however.

] .AND T. [From a photograph by Rowland Ward. oryx pattencniaiuis.THE NEW El.

which indicate a transition from the ordinary South African animal in the direction of eland.R. killed the giant eland 1 (Taurotragus derbianns) of In error for the " British. and set up by Mr. and on the lower part of the face there was a much larger brown patch than is to be seen on the ordinary eland.S.. I sent up. the body The striping on was very in to slight. Lydekker. white stripe in though eland. smaller those the found forehead the giant The sides of were of a reddish colour. on account of certain peculiarities in colouring and markings. while lower corner of each similar to. was no from long tuft the of hair on the forehead. H. eye ran an incomplete than. F. On my head while England Ward's April. the chief markings being return to to three lines across the withers. R. in the well-known naturalist and specialist big game." . Mr.3 i4 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO there CHAP. as showing the existence of a hitherto unknown race eland. Lydekker also contributed the following notice describing the animal to The Field of September 29. Rowland Ward. of the British Museum. the Rowland it be set and there was seen by Mr. thing. Patterson in Portuguese East Africa. 1906 " : Considerable interest attaches to the head of an 1 by Colonel J. who wrote to tell me of that it possessed great zoological interest.

the upper part of the face has the hair rufous and shorter than in the ordinary eland. In the striped variety {Taurotragus oryx livingstonianus] of the ordinary South African eland. and no white stripe from the lower angle of the eye. derbianus gigas]. On the other hand. although rather smaller than. dark-brown. apparently although bordered band on the side of the neck. as represented by a bull figured by Mr.xxvn THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND district 315 Bahr-el-Ghazal and West Africa. above and between the eyes. Patterson's it specimen recalls the the giant eland. the On the lower sides of the forehead being rufous. lacks dark white- Portuguese East Africa where Colonel Patterson's . characteristic If all the elands from that part of of the latter. the whole middle line of the face of the adult bull is uniformly dark. of the face there is a larger dark-brown area part than in the ordinary eland. "In Colonel Patterson's eland (which may well be designated T. recalling the white chevron of the kuclu. in the Sudani form of the giant eland (T. although there is a is rufous the fawn-coloured patch on each side above In both the latter respects Colonel nostril. oryx pattersoniamis) there is an incomplete white chevron similar to. while 'only a narrow stripe in the middle line of the face. or even blackish-brown. the one found in the giant eland. while from the lower angle of each eye a white stripe runs inwards and downwards. with a tuft of long bushy hair on the forehead. although the two stripes do not meet in the middle line. Rothschild in Novitates Zoologicae for 1905.

are only races of one and the same species. xxvn specimen was obtained turn out to be of the same type. so sportsmen and naturalists might have an opportunity of seeing it at the Natural History Museum at South Kensington. While. and as the authorities of Museum expressed a desire to possess it head. there will be a strong presumption that the and the giant eland. where it now is. like the various local forms of giraffe and bonte-quagga. that THOMSON'S GAZELLE." As my eland the British its thus proved to be of some con- siderable scientific value. even if the present true specimen be only a likely). it will (which I consider unserve to show that the southern and sport ' ' northern elands are more nearly related than has hitherto been supposed. all I gladly presented to the Trustees. .316 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CH.

APPENDIX .

.

and 500 12-bore shot cartridges of.WAR CANOE ON LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA. couple of hundred rockets of various colours should certainly be taken. Leather bandoliers to sufficient for a three months' trip. should consist of a '450 express. NKAR THE RIl'ON KAI. and a 12-bore shot gun and I should consider 250 rounds of '450 (50 hard . APPENDIX i.LS. and . SPORTSMEN who think of visiting British East Africa on a shooting trip may be glad of a few general hints on points of interest and importance. say. and 200 soft). The battery. a '303 sporting rifle. to be sufficient for all needs. as they are invaluable for signalling to A and from camp after dark. each of these different cartridges would also prove carry 50 very useful. the 6 and 8 sizes. These can be obtained so as to fire from a 12-bore shot gun or from a short pistol. 300 rounds of '303 (100 hard and 200 soft).

320 APPENDIX some should always be left with the camp neopara (Headman) for use as occasion requires. The . soles . leather gaiters or a couple of pairs of puttees. The rifles. and sent off from London in tinlined cases at least a month before the sportsman himself It must be remembered that the Customs intends to start. House at Mombasa value of all articles 10 per cent. PREPARING BREAKFAST IN CAMP. duty on the so that the invoices should imported. charges a be preserved and produced for inspection. and rockets should be consigned to an agent in Mombasa. The hunter's kit should include a good pith sun-hat. wash-leather gloves to protect the hands from the sun. cartridges. a couple of suits of khaki. and two pairs of boots with long Norwegian boots will also be found very hemp useful.

the sun strikes down very fiercely towards midday. I myself and to Mr. most A well-filled medicine chest should of course not be forgotten. hints from some one of experience in the country are most useful. taken when I was I I . who enthusiastic photographer. warm overcoat will be much appreciated up-country good in the cool of the evenings. and those who feel the sun should also provide themselves with a spine-protector. and I should recommend others to do the same. I made it a practice on my last visit to the country to send him the exposed films for development whenever I reached a postal station. regards camp equipment. The latter is a useful article of kit. am much indebted am sure should not in the country in 1898-99. all that need be taken out from England are a small double-fly tent. for although the air may be pretty cool. a collapsible bath. a pair of knee and elbow pads will be found invaluable. have achieved much success in my pictures without it. As . With regard to the last item. and a Kodak with about 200 films should also be carried. and a light mackintosh for wet usual required A weather ought also to be included.APPENDIX underclothing worn in England is all that is if the shooting is to be done in the highlands. filter boxes (food) and other necessary camp gear should be Chop . I should strongly advise all intend to take photographs on their trip to pay a visit He is an to Mr. a Wolseley valise. three Jaeger blankets. two points which require most attention. D. as films indeed I had deteriorate rapidly on the voyage home nearly four hundred spoiled in this way. a hunting and skinning knife or two. A good field glass. Young's kindly advice. Young on arriving at Nairobi. W. and will gladly give advice to and as these are the all as to light and time of exposure . For use in rocky or thorny country. and a good and even these can be obtained just as good locally.

. each. especially on rough ground or on crossing streams. etc. the Government taking a and according to custom small fee for the registration half the wages due for the whole trip are advanced to the The . where the agents will put up just what is necessary personally. where every load has to be unpacked. in British East Africa is on the basis of 15 to the i . 20 12 2 Asian's (armed porters).. I should not advise anyone at Mombasa. About a month before sailing from England a letter . The sportsman will then find everything ready for him. so that an immediate start may be made. no object. each porter with a jersey. 30 Porters 10 each.. blanket and water-bottle. though the exact numbers usually he intends going depend upon many considerations i i : Headman Cook Gun-bearer " 50 rupees 35 l per month. Newland and Tarleton of the latter place very reliable. and then reloaded on the animal's back. as It must be remembered that for transport work men are infinitely preferable to donkeys. I found Messrs. will be required. carried over. should be sent to the agents. as equally good men can engage porters be obtained at Nairobi. the latter are exasperatingly slow and troublesome.. i 1 20 Boy " (personal servant). men The sportsman is obliged to is made. stating the date of arrival and what porters. thus saving 20 rupees per head in Unless money is to return railway fares. if The caravan far for one from the railway is sportsman made up as follows.322 obtained at APPENDIX Mombasa or Nairobi. provide before a start 1 The rupee sterling. porters are all registered.

and never had the least trouble with the porters all the time. The cook is also an important member of the caravan. His only of the sportsman. boy and askaris one and a half kibabas.APPENDIX " 323 while the gun-bearer and " boy get a pair of boots in addition. It is the duty of the Headman to keep discipline on the safari (caravan journey). never tried one. and to pitch and strike the Bwanas Y 2 . each . and could easily be found by this name at . but he was always known as M'zay. and to see to the distribution and safety of the loads. The food for the caravan is mostly rice. and demand about four times as much wages as an equally good Swahili. Anybody I cannot securing him as Headman will be lucky remember his real name. one kibaba. of which the Headman gets two kibabas (a kibaba is about \\ Ib. the pitching and striking of camp. etc. and a good one should be procured if possible. the duties of the askaris are to keep up the fire and watch at night. Mombasa. they certainly rate themselves very highly. the issue of posho (food) to the porters. " " per day. to secure a splendid neopara. gun-bearer. It is wonderful what an experienced native uipeshi (cook) can turn out in the way of a meal in a few minutes after camp is pitched. both in camp and on the march. and the ordinary porters. and on him depends greatly the general comfort For our trip at the beginning of 1906. we managed drawback was that he could not speak English. but am told that they are inclined to be As troublesome . but he told me when he left us that he was going to learn.) per day the cook. I have gun-bearer. In camp. He always brings up the rear of the caravan. most hunters prefer a Somali. cotton shelter-tent and a cooking pot must A also be furnished for every five men.

see that no desertions take . allow no straggling. and generally do what they can to protect the caravan. place. they sulky mutineers. the Swahili porter is . rally it very dangerous men to their friends when they take day in into their heads to fire their weapons. and build grass huts if a stay of more than a day is intended to be made at one place. . On the whole. pitch and strike camp. procure firewood and water. the (Master's) tent.APPENDIX On the march one leads the caravan. loads and day out without complaint. so long as they are well but stint them of their rice. They are each armed with an old snider rifle and 10 rounds of ball cartridge. other brings up the rear they give assistance in the event of any trouble with the loads. and are gene- VIEW IN THE KENYA PROVINCE. and they at once become fed In addition to carrying the loads. The ordinary porters will carry their 6o-lb.

and moved from station to station or left standing in a siding This is the cheapest and at the directions of the hunter. the best plan accommodation. and bath case. It may be that our sportsman intends to confine his shooting trip to the neighbourhood of the railway in this . can be attached to almost any train. and I have nothing but praise for him.APPENDIX 325 one of the jolliest and most willing fellows in the world. cooking. These carriages. which have good sleeping." is to hire one of the special carriages from the Traffic Manager of the Uganda Railway. . "A FLYING VISIT IN A RICKSHAW TO KAMPALA.

if the hunter intends shooting. may be obtained The pay of the only t\vo annas . or regular porters are some quite good sport can be obtained into Again. say.' Province. as many in from the official porters as he requires charge at Fort Hall.N<. .O\V1. COTTON GARMENTS. while he provides his own food neither is the asked to furnish him with a blanket. required and the bargain.AD IN LONG KI. in the Kenya " Cl. jersey. and sportsman . Kikuyu porter in circumstances is a day. such.326 APPENDIX in most comfortable way of spending a short time country. as no tent. the camp equipment.

single fare (First-Class) less is 42 IDS. available voyage 67 los. The JIXJA. but the fare is much for two years. take about seventeen Maritimes. governed as regards porters by its own special conditions. . in fact. Each Province is. takes longer by this route. There are various lines of steamers sailing to Mombasa- The steamers of the German East Ost-Afrika Linie) sail Africa Line {Deutsche from Marseilles or Naples. which can easily be ascertained on arrival in the country. is cheaper.APPENDIX 327 water-bottle so long as he is not taken out of his own Province. being only 20 First-Class . from Marseilles. the ordinary fare. sailing The First-Class fare from London is 45 return. The British East The Africa Line sails from London about once a month. while those who are . The return is double The Messageries 10 per cent. The voyage takes about eighteen days from Marseilles. days.

which may be obtained without difficulty at either of these two centres.50). This license imposes an obligation on the sportsman to make a return before he leaves the country of every animal shot by him. By obtaining a special Game License." out a Game License (costing the sum of .328 APPENDIX not pressed for time would probably enjoy calling in at the various ports en route. Before any shooting can be done it is necessary to take " RUSHING OVER THE RIPON FALLS. . Mombasa and Fairly good hotel accommodation can be had at both Nairobi.

15 in this must be paid in "THE MIGHTY RIVER STRETCHING AWAY TO THE NORTH AMID ENCHANTING SCENERY. in 329 be killed license. W. advance. A one bull eland.APPENDIX one bull buffalo. This fee of .C." all is. and is forfeited whether the animals are afterwards killed or not.. Fairly good Stanford's. . while the Game Laws and Regulations can be procured from the Colonial Office in Downing Street. maps of the country may be obtained at Long Acre. and one bull giraffe may addition to the animals covered by the ordinary fee of 5 is charged for each of these bulls . additional to the $O for the ordinary license. of course.

Passenger trains leave It is unnecessary to specify district by district where particular species of game are to be found. 164]. for the sportsman can easily learn this for himself and get the latest news of game movements on his arrival at Mombasa. The First-Class return fares from Mombasa to Nairobi. As the whole country abounds in game. sun-dried and packed in tin-lined cases with plenty of moth-killer for shipment home. some twenty-one miles off. though it usually takes twenty-seven. The voyage round the Lake in one of the comfortable railway steamers takes about eight days.330 APPENDIX Mombasa at 1 1 a. for years past. can be done in seventeen hours. the native capital. I spent a most . and Fridays. than go to Rowland I have had mine set up by this and have always found their work excellent. while the extravagant man spend very much more. the official capital of Uganda. The heads and skins should be very carefully a matter of fact. For mounting his trophies I think. the sportsman cannot do better. including I consider that passage both ways.15 next morning and at Kisumu (the railway terminus on Lake Victoria Nyanza) at 9 o'clock on the morning following. but the crossing to Entebbe. on Mondays. and 213! rupees respectively.m. Nairobi at 11. a trip to the Victoria Nyanza should certainly be made. and are timed to arrive at Wednesdays. traveller to long enough in Entebbe harbour to enable the energetic pay a flying visit in a rickshaw to Kampala. The frugal sportsman it on less. 400 should cover the entire cost of a three months' shooting trip to East Africa. as at night the boats anchor for The steamer remains shelter under the lee of an island. and there cannot be lack of sport and trophies for the keen sliikari. Kisumu and Entebbe are 92. will will doubtless do probably Should time be available. Ward firm of Piccadilly.

It is He made no it curious to find the Baganda (i. The disease is communicated by the is bite of an but happily this pest only found in certain well-defined regions. as regards sleeping sickness. and. as it is here that the Lake narrows into a breadth of only a few hundred yards. but unfortunately turned out a failure. is usually called at. and has quite depopulated the islands. river stretching is The magnificent view to the north away of the mighty amid enchanting scenery most inspiring. and busily engaged in bartering the products of the country under the shade of tattered umbrellas. which in the past few years has carried off thousands of the natives. clad in long flowing cotton garments.. so that if the traveller avoids these he is quite as safe. which were once densely shores of the inhabited. Jinja.e. infected fly. after enduring countless hardships. This place is of great interest. Unfortunately the great scourge of the district round the in the " bazaar " Lake is the sleeping sickness. and one can well imagine how elated Speke must have felt when. rushing over the Ripon Falls. He was then about nine years old. . at Mengo. forms the long-sought-for source of the Nile. as if he had remained in England. he at last looked upon it and thus solved one of the great problems of the ancients. On the return journey from Entebbe. people of Uganda) the majority are Christians surrounded as they are on all sides by nations of practically naked savages and it is a very interesting sight to watch them highly civilised . at Kampala. Daudi Chwa. and very bright and intelligentobjection to my taking his photograph. a port on the north side of the Victoria Nyanza.APPENDIX interesting 331 day last year in this way. and had a chat with the boy King of Uganda.

rhinoceroses. I. yet does he speak in mighty tones. camels. spirits. mountains. nor father nor son. 103: THE NAME OF ALLAH. His is the knowledge of the known and of the unknown. THE MERCIFUL. THE COMPASSIONATE : is must I speak to the praise and glory of God. size. Roshan. and dense deer. being himself incomparable and passionless. black varieties of baboons of giant birds . all animals .II The poem IN following is a literal translation of the Hindustani referred to on p. . He has no relatives. enemies of man . though without body or breath. all Also wolves. and Gorillas. forests abounding in and leopards buffaloes. black snakes. elephants. wild dogs. ferocious monkeys that attack men. that a hunter or sportsman could desire. First Who is without fault or error. came it to this country of Africa. who infinite and incomprehensible. and did find indeed a strange land Many lions rocks. and thousands of and Wild horses. . and although without a tongue. who is the Life.

whose very jaws were steeped in blood. and the people complaining of the deeds of the lions. Roshan. . and where was the man who did not feel afraid ? On would all sides arose sit and cry like cranes. and to our relate spiritual adviser. there are found those lions called are full man-eaters. And because of fear for their lives. the Prophet. and none dared to close his eyes in sleep yet would some of them . Because of the fear of these demons some seven or eight hundred of the labourers deserted. The lion's roar was such that the very earth would tremble at the sound. the forests bordering on this " line. and hundreds of men fell victims to these savage creatures. chief of will line. their hearts full of foreboding and terror." and moreover these forests of thorns and prickly shrubs.APPENDIX The forests are 333 so dark and dreadful that even the boldest warriors shrink from their awful depths. for the sake of their . but they were haunted by this terrible dread. skin and blood. weeping and wailing. Such was their habit. Now from the town of Mombasa. and here these lions fell on the workmen and destroyed them. day and night. Portions of this railway from Mombasa to Uganda are still being made. and remained idle Some two or three hundred still remained. flesh. kept some ten or twenty goats. and left not a trace behind them. also complained and in prayed to God. they devoured all. would sit in their huts. Everyone of them kept afire burning at night. Bones. be carried away to destruction. I. a railway line extends unto Uganda In . I my people. And now charge of the the story of the Engineer He milk .

this For damage the lion shall pay his life. Zal. and the valiant one has gone forth with his gun into the forest. most brave and of great strength is he. like unto those Persian heroes of old Rustem. fallen victims to Those who were proud or their lives uselessly .334 APPENDIX But one night a wild beast came. that the greatest warriors stood aghast Tall in stature. So brave at his action is . the English- man " spoke. young. And when took his gun and in very Patterson Sahib is indeed a brave and valiant man. Sohrab and Berzoor . and groups of people have their fury. injury . the fearless lion made his appearance . and said. and doing great all. and destroyed them not one being left. he. For such has been the habit of lions from time immemorial. And in the morning it was reported by the watchman. And they took the Engineer with them and showed him the footprints of the animal. Soon after the people had retired at night to their tents. From of those the other side of the line came the noise and cries who complained that these savage beasts were eating and destroying men. who also stated that the man-eater was daily destroying the labourers and workmen. boastful. Patterson Sahib loaded both barrels of his gun and went forth against him. And after seeing what the animal had done. ." night came he truth destroyed the beast. have but sacrificed But to-day himself! Patterson Sahib will watch for the lion For the people have complained loudly.

comparable to the and the Prophet judgment. and your spiritual ! adviser. Do not think of work to-day and be merry. for the forest. enjoy So the people had holiday and made merry with friends from whom they had been long parted." And in the morning all the people saw the lion lying . and their money allowed them A generous action. lion roared like thunder as the bullets found their is way to his heart." holiday. while the bullets followed So was in despair. the Prophet. safeguard you day and night . their hands. he lay down And beast after fell he had covered a chain's distance. This Englishman. on account of the And then the Sahib said. too deep for We Oh ! mortals have the Devil. the savage down. leave this kind of simile. most brave. to sinners God and criminals on the day of it is Oh thee . Patterson. " make lion : And the absence of those who had run away was forgiveness of forgiven. ever after us Roshan. this man-eater rendered helpless . and is indeed yet one glance from Patterson Sahib cowed the bravest of them. Lions do not fears He fled. bearing lights look at their dead enemy. lion. may God. the very essence of valour . ! poet. a corpse. my children the night is dark. all ran to But the Sahib said " Return. in Now the people. like unto a fierce . do not rush into danger. dead. hard after making him .APPENDIX He The fired 335 many times in succession and totally paralysed the animal. lions.

the lion appeared and remained from sunset to sunrise. bullet after a great uproar. . He kept on roaming about in the neighbourhood like a general reconnoitring the enemy's position. on the seventeenth day. But again. " Do not go out from said. seven chains away. he fired quickly. he saw the beast. or roam about. All thought of sleep was banished.336 APPENDIX lion. lion The made everyone began to shriek and groan in their uneasy jumping up in fear. we found the fired lion. a peaceful being well. a had Muslim And at night \vhen all retired to rest. And Patterson Sahib went forth into the field meet him. bullets . the afternoon even until the following morning. of the lion was heard." he Now festival : this was the night of SIiab-i-Kadr. And in the morning we followed the marks of blood that had flowed from the And And some five or wounded animal. when unexpectedly the roaring sleep. but the bullets nevertheless found a resting-place in his heart. the lion came to in a rage. and in great pain. And when bullet. remained. and fear came in its place : And the Sahib gave emphatic orders that no one should go out. and all for fear of him all went dread Sixteen days passed. and everyone enjoyed mind . lying wounded when the Sahib saw the animal he And incessantly . On the following day the Sahib sent for the people and warned them all to be careful of their lives . and fled for his life. One in however.

the savage animal. and the name of the mistari^ head of the workmen. in order to protect Previously. not taking a pice of it. leaps and bounds close to the Sahib But here he was to meet his match in a brave Sahib who loaded his gun calmly. . But the Sahib declined to accept the present. all this So they it trouble. in it might be converted into some suitable present. and consulted as how the service that the Sahib had done them could most suitably be rewarded. so much so that he roamed about us. pleased to accept it. to order that was agreed to send all the money to England. because he had undergone lives. Z . Which should bear an engraving of the two lions. the Sahib was a All the Punjaubis assembled together and agreed that man who appreciated and cared for others. in ! hundreds of rupees. The present should be such. Because the lion was very courageous and ferocious. risking his collected many own life in the forest.APPENDIX But when the lion 337 saw the Sahib. in the forests for our sake. 1 Foreman-mason. . Oh So then again the Punjaubis assembled. and the Sahibs were afraid But for the sake of our lives. and offered the Sahib. so that the Sahib would be it . such order to save our all the people appeared before the Sahib Roshan. And . " You are our benefactor " saying. burning with rage and pain. Patterson Sahib took . as to be acceptable to Patterson Sahib In colour it should resemble moon and sun and that would indeed be a fit present. and so suitably decorated. and fired again and again. killing Came by the beast. many Englishmen had come here to shoot but had been disappointed. as a present to peril.

in the thana of Domli. shooting action. left me. the district of Jhelum. of Composed by Roshan Office itiistari.338 APPENDIX I Oh! Roshan. hope that he as will the lions. sad and regretful. WA KIKUYU WARRIORS. and I shall miss him as long and now Roshan must roam about live. Dakhli. . and I have related this actually occurred. 1899. son Kadur mistaii Bakhsh. Post Domli. native of the village of Chajanlat. Dated 29th January. in Africa. district of Jhelum. some accept this present for small reward for his My which native is in story as it Patterson Sahib has as I home is at Chajanlat.

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2. nrpn JUN? 19882. AIIG8 1988 REIDAUG9 198810 . THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Santa Barbara THIS BOOR IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW.55 P3.

3 1205 00837 3191 FAC UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY ITY A 000580912 4 .

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