1l

4

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO

MACMILLAN AND
LONDON
.
.

CO., LIMITED

BOMBAY CALCUTTA MELBOURNE
BOSTON CHICAGO SAN FRANCISCO
.

THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
NEW YORK
ATLANTA
.
,

THE MACMILLAN

CO. OF CANADA, LTD. TORONTO

IIKADS OF EIGHT LIONS SHOT BY THE AUTHOR IN BRITISH HAST AFRICA. .

S. H. WITH A FOREWORD BY FREDERICK COURTENEY SELOUS Wl TH ILL USTRA TION^ MACMILLAN AND ST. CO. LIMITED MARTIN'S STREET.-COL. LONDON 1907 .THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO AND Other ast African Adventures BY LIEUT..O. PATTERSON. D. J.

G. LIMITED. BREAD STREET HILL.RICHARD CLAY AND SONS. October. AND BUNGAY.. . November and December. 1907. E. 1907. First Edition. Reprinted.. SUFFOLK.

determined to much hesitation at last do I so. I have toned down and have endeavoured to write a perfectly plain and straightforward account of things as they must be remembered that at the time these actually happened. who have perhaps never been very far away from civilisation. The railway. It events occurred. the conditions prevailing in British East Africa were very different from what they are to-day.PREFACE IT I is with feelings of the greatest diffidence that . will be inclined to think that some of the can only assure them the facts rather than otherI incidents are exaggerated. that wise. which has modernised the aspect . place the following pages before the public but those of my friends who happen to have heard of have so my rather unique experiences in the wilds often urged that after me to write an account of I my adventures. have no doubt that many of my readers.

was then only in process of construction. as indeed.. for book so kindly an introduction " " is Foreword provided by the to write. 1907. in even a small way to call attention to the beautiful and valuable country which we possess on the Equator. Mr. T. K. giving my little to the public as F. If this in it still is. am much Sir indebted to the Hon.C. August. P. Mrs. away from the simple account of two years' work and play or help the wilds should prove of any interest. Cyril Ward. I shall feel more than compensated for the trouble I I have taken in writing it. C. and the country through which it was being state. H. C. Guilford Molesworth. Mr. Spooner and Mr. E. which he has been good enough J. My reproduce photographs taken by warmest thanks are also due to that to veteran pioneer of Africa. allowing Rawson for their kindness in me them.I. Selous. .viii PREFACE of the place and brought civilisation in its train. J. built was still in its primitive savage railway.

a by Col. Nay more I knew that the author had told his story in a most modest manner. Fortunately he did not lose his nerve. then an engineer engaged on the construction of the Uganda Railway. and sucin ceeded shooting the lion. brief account written My me at own long experience once that every word of African hunting told in this thrilling : narrative was absolutely true. laying but little stress on the dangers he had run when sitting up at nights death of the terrible and compass the man-eaters. especially on that to try light one occasion when whilst watching from a very scaffolding. approached him from behind. H. point of springing But had I lion it would pro- . just when think it was on the this upon him. of the Tsavo man-eating lions. supported only by four rickety poles. he was himself stalked by one of the dread beasts. Patterson.FOREWORD IT first was some seven or eight years ago that I read. in the pages of The Field newspaper. J.

But no have put some on record myself. have ever heard or read equals in I sustained lion story its long- and dramatic as interest the story of the Tsavo man-eaters lion story terrible is told by Col. A usually a tale of adventures. often very pathetic. for in of three trees Col. Patterson to its long list my own experience I have known instances of men having been pulled from huts built or on platforms at a greater height from the ground than the crazy structure on which Col. begged me . and hours of one night eaters is which occupied but a few but the tale of the Tsavo manterrible tragedies spread out an epic of over several months. and only at last brought to an end by the resource and determination of one man. . and he was so deeply as he is in all true stories interested in the story of the nature that he and characteristics of wild animals to send him the short printed This I did account as published in The Field. .FOREWORD bably have added of victims. Patterson was watching on that night of terrors. Patterson. all I remembered about it. lion I innumerable have been told and written. From stories the time of Herodotus until to-day. was some years after I read the first account published of the Tsavo man-eaters that I made the It I told him acquaintance of President Roosevelt.

probable that the chapters recounting the story of the Tsavo man-eating lions will be found more absorbing than the other portions of Col. rhinoceroses and other dangerous animals was sur- passed by the pluck. a great pity that manent form. I am now glad to think that in will be preserved to permanent form Patterson the that . and I venture assure will Col. described the those two you sent me.FOREWORD and it xi was only " : in the last letter I received from him velt that. lions. President RooseI wrote think that the incident in of the Uganda man-eating articles lions. but I think that most of his is readers will agree with full me that the whole volume of interest and information. tact and determination he mutiny which showed in quelling the formidable once broke out amongst his native Indian workers. The in account given all by Col. difficulties Patterson of how he overcame the which confronted him building a strong and permanent railway bridge across the Tsavo river makes excellent reading whilst the courage he . President Roosevelt be amongst most interested readers of his book. is most remarkable It is account of which it we have any record. Finally. displayed in attacking. It is Patterson's book . single-handed. referring to this story. ." it should not be preserved in perWell. let me say that I have spent the best.

WORPLESDON. for I felt that every word I read was true. Patterson's book. 1907. SELOUS.xii FOREWORD part of two nights reading the proof-sheets of Col. C. SURREY. and I can assure him that the time passed like magic. My interest was held from the first page to the last. . September 18. F.

UILDING OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE IV 41 CHAPTER V TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN 5O CHAPTER THE REIGN OF TERROR VI 6l CHAPTER VII 75 THE DISTRICT OFFICER'S NARROW ESCAPE CHAPTER VIII 84 THE DEATH OF THE FIRST MAN-EATER .CONTENTS CHAPTER MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO I I'AflE I CHAPTER II THE FIRST APPEARANCE OF THE MAN-EATERS 2O CHAPTER THE ATTACK ON THE COODS-WAGON III 2Q CHAPTER THE P.

KS CHAPTER A NICIIT XII 131 AFTKK HIPPO CHAPTER A DAY XIII 143 ON THK N'hfNCr K>( AK I'M KNT CHAPTER XIV THK FINDING OF THK MAN-KATKRS' DKN 153 CHAPTER XV UNSUCCESSFUL RHINO HUNTS 1 66 CHAPTER XVI A WIDOW'S STORY 174 CHAPTER AN INI-VKIATKD RHIN'o XVII l8o CHAPTER LIONS "IN Till' XVII 1 ATIII PLAINS 190 CHAPTER XIX I Hi: -IUKKKN CARAVAN 2OJ CHAPTER XX A DAY ON THK ATM I RIVER 2lS CHAPTER XXI THK MASAI AND OTHKR TRI1!K> 228 . ()4 CHAPTER X THE COMPLETION OF THK T>AY(> KR1DUK . 107 CHAPTER THK SNVAHILI XI II~ AND OTHKR NATIVK TRIP. . THK DKVIII OF I HI' SECOND M \N-KATKK .xiv CONTENTS HAPTER IX PAGB .

AT NAIROBI ' 289 CHAPTER XXVII THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND 296 APPENDIX 3'7 .CONTENTS CHAPTER HOW ROSHAN KUAN >AVH> MY LIFE xv XXII HAGE 243 CHAPTER A SUCCESSFUL LION XXIII 260 HUNT CHAPTER XXIV BHOOTA'S LAST SH/KAK 269 CHAPTER XXV A MAN-EATER IN A RAILWAY CARRIAGE 282 CHAPTER XXVI WORK.

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Mombasa " 2 3 5 Well-wooded best hills Yasco da Gama way and slopes of the mainland " Street and Pillar .. 23 29 We shared a hut of palm leaves and boughs of the " " 30 " The camps workmen had also been surrounded by 31 ... 18 of Uganda The Tent from which jemadar Ungan Singh was " " My own tent was pitched in an open clearing " Women 19 carried off ... "The " I to get there was \^ gharri" " 6 7 pitched my " is tent under some shady palms " " Jesus Fort Kilindini 8 .. . from the Harbour The Native Quarter. . . on the opposite side of the island" " Deep Waters brought down the huge ...LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Heads of Africa eight Lions shot by the Author in British East Frontispiece I Mombasa. . 10 it " " " " " The Place of A lucky I shot bird " " 14 15 17 " slept that night in a little palm hut This interminable nyika''' The river crossed by means of a temporary bridge . with occasionally a friend 43 . with its two or three thousand workmen" " The two wounded coolies were left where they lay. thorn fences " Railhead Camp. a piece of torn tent having fallen over 33 them " 35 "A luncheon served to share " it in the wilds..

. and stood three feet eleven and a half inches high "The bridge over the Tsavo rapidly neared completion" . 125 Wa Taita Men M'Kamba Woman " 127 129 134 136 Until it joins the Athi River" "The banks of the Sabaki are lined with trees" . " " " ' The women The women wear a long. 121 123 We arrived at M'Gogo's capital " in the 124 Making pombe hollowed-out stump of a tree" . ..... cook.. brightly-coloured cloth themselves only in " attire a short kilt " ...xviii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS I'AGE " very soon became a great pet " Heera Singh made a wild spring into the water to get clear It " 46 of the falling stone " " 47 " The door which was to admit the lion "When the trap was ready.. 119 120 Such was my ... 109 first Very soon had the satisfaction of seeing the train cross the finished work" the Flood 110 1 1 1 The completed Tsavo Bridge One of the Trolley Lines after 112 Swahili Caravan Porters " The old caravan road which crossed the " " 118 Tsavo at a ford " . Mabruki . 70 " Perched on the top of water-tanks " 73 77 " I took up my position in a crib made of sleepers" Whitehead on a Trolley at the exact spot where the Lion jumped upon him Abdullah and his two Wives 79 80 83 A " party of Wa Jamousi His length from tip of nose to eight inches" tip of tail was nine feet 92 Head "The " of the " first Man-Eater I 93 following evening took up my position in this same 99 102 107 tree nine feet six inches from tip of nose to tip " of tail... . " " stones were The into He measured heavy swung its position " " 108 109 " " " The And girder was run over finally exact place lowered gently into position I . . I pitched a tent over it" " They found him stuck fast in the bushes of the l>oma 62 64 .

. Slaves chained neck to neck as was the custom" 172 Hospital Tent at Voi where Mrs.. with Collabus Monkey N'derobbo Girl . which bowled the antelope over stone-dead" managed to bring them " . 241 277 .. . O'Hara rested In the Bazaar at Kampala " The great Athi Plains " " " First the earth surface has to be prepared " Cuttings have to be made and hollows banked 176 179 180 182 up" 183 185 "Another gang drops the " " It rails in their places" never moved again well " " 188 The trophy was it worth the pains I had taken to add 189 191 to my collection Jackson's Hartebeeste and Zebra Waterbuck " 192 fell Fortunately the brute dead in after this final effort " " We I " triumph to the camp got near enough for a safe shot. 198 211 215 Wart-hog " 217 A successful snapshot of an A Masai Chief Masai Warriors Masai Masai impala just after it had been shot " 225 229 231 Woman Women 232 233 Masai Girls N'derobbo Boy N'derobbo Boy. the man-eaters' den " ! 1 56 "\Vatchtheanimalscomedowntodrink" " The antelope swinging by his feet " Hippo Head " 159 163 165 .... Imam Wa .. . . 234 235 236 237 Wa Kikuyu Wa Wikuyu " " 239 240 of the The women " Kikuyu carry the heavy loads Din" Spooner's plucky servant...LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS " I xix caught sight of a him over" fine waterbuck and successfully bowled 144 close to " A young one was lying down quite all me " 145 151 A " Crocodile on the Sabaki Beyond doubt.

. away to the north amid en- chanting scenery" \Va Kikuyu Warriors 329 338 Map of British East Africa 339 . took a photograph of him standing beside his fine trophy" " Succeeded in finishing him off without further trouble" .xx LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE A " Collection of Trophies 281 " . . The Grand Falls. . on Lake Victoria N van/a . 294 295 Steamer unloading at Kisumu. War Canoe View on Lake Victoria Nyanza. . 287 Impala " 288 . . Tana River Water" (Eldama Ravine) . . near the Ripon Falls 319 Preparing Breakfast in Camp in the Kenya Province flying visit in a in 320 324 325 " "A " rickshaw to Kampala'' Clad long flowing cotton garments 326 327 Jinja " " Rushing over the Ripon Falls" 328 The mighty river stretching . and then shot . 296 297 298 Shimone. . oryx pattersonitinits 313 316 . "The Place of Falling Oryx Roan Antelope " 299 An excellent. cheery fellow . . . 300 301 Crossing a Stream on the Cook's Box Crossing the Angarua River 303 305 Reedbuck The New Eland Thomson's Gazelle T.. . named Landaalu " . He was I kept on view for several days... 291 .

was much struck with the which gradually opened strange beauty of the view Contrary to my anticipation. separated from the mainland only by a very narrow channel. that I found myself entering the narrow and somewhat dangerous harbour of Mombasa. quaint old Portuguese fortress 1 built over three hundred years ago. THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAPTER I MY ARRIVAL AT TSAYO IT first was towards noon on March i. which forms the harbour and as our vessel steamed slowly in. out before me. close under the . 1898. FROM THE HARBOUR. on the east coast of Africa. every B - . The town lies on an island of the same name.MOMBASA.

even at the .>r. to me. flat roofs and dazzlingly white walls peeped out THK NAIIVK (. huge baobabs and spreading mango darker background of well-wooded trees hills . in plentifully sprinkled with I Arab some of which.\KTI-:K. dreamily between waving palms and lofty cocoanuts. and the and slopes on the mainland formed a very effective setting to a beautiful and. The old town was bathed in brilliant sunthing shine and reflected its itself lazily on the motionless sea. and green. MOM1SASA.2 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO looked fresh CHAP. unexpected picture. and an oriental glamour of enchantment seemed to hang over the island. The harbour was dhows. believe.

men on board. as they do. Ocean. I remember once coming terrible across a dhow becalmed its in the middle of the Indian distress. and how they manage weather the "\VEU. storms that at certain seasons of the year suddenly visit eastern seas. a few slaves are occasionally smuggled off to Persia and Arabia. and crew making signals of our captain slowed four down all to investigate. There were . It has always been a the navigators of matter of great wonder to these little me how vessels find their way from to port to port.-\VOODED HILLS AND SLOPES ON THE MAINLAND.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO present day. without the aid of either compass or sextant. nearly dead from thirst they had been without drink of any kind for several days B 2 .

leaving them still becalmed midst of that glassy sea. and our vessel resumed in the its journey. our vessel was surrounded by a fleet .THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO and had CHAP. this time. the romantic surroundings of the harbour of Mombasa conjured up visions of stirring adventures of the past. principal street the of Mombasa Street appropriately called still Vasco da Gama there is stands a curiously-shaped pillar which said to have been erected by this great seaman in his visit. we directed them to Muscat (the port they wished to make). and have sacked the town but for the timely In submission and apologies of the Sultan. giving them some casks of water. After completely lost their bearings. when. in Luckily. nefarious design was discovered and the bold navigator also w ould r promptly hanged the pilot. As our steamer made its way to its anchorage. who plotted wreck the vessel on the reef which bars more than half the entrance to the harbour. Whether they managed to reach their destination I never knew. as by magic. which as a boy that it it had been my delight to read. I remembered was at this very place that in 1498 the great Vasco da Gama nearly lost his ship and life through to the treachery of his Arab pilot. commemoration of if Scarcely had the anchor been dropped. and recalled to my mind the many tales of reckless doings of pirates and slavers.

I found myself being vigorously rowed to the foot of the landing steps by the bahareen (sailors) who had been successful in the VASCO DA GAMA STREET AND PILLAR. officials from one of the Customs quarters of the railway were to be found. enquired where the headI As soon as I landed. therefore. encounter. and .MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO " " of small boats and dug-outs manned by crowds After a short of shouting and gesticulating natives. Now. my object in coming out to East Africa at this time was to take up a position to which I had been appointed by the Foreign Office staff of on the construction the Uganda Railway. fight between some rival Swahili boatmen for my luggage and person.

on the other side of the The best way to get there. I was further informed. baobab. which once outside the most part through dense groves of mango. and was soon flying down the track. laid which are pushed by two strapping Swahili boys. with town lay for the . I secured one of these vehicles. were at a place called Kilindini. some island. having two seats placed back to back under a little canopy and running on narrow rails "THE BEST WAY TO GET THERE ." which are town. WAS BY gharri. banana and palm here and there brilliantly-coloured trees. three miles away.THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO was told that they CHAP. through the principal street of the Accordingly. was by gharri. . . which I found to be a small trolley.

I made my way to the Railway Offices and was informed that I should be stationed inland and should receive further instructions in the course of a day or two. tent under some shady palms near the gharri and busied myself in exploring the island and in procuring the stores and the outfit necessary The town of for a lengthy sojourn up-country.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO creepers hanging in luxuriant festoons from the branches. Mombasa attention. On arrival at Kilindini.D. discovery of ancient ." pitched my line. itself It is naturally occupied most of my supposed to have been founded but the about A. 1000. Meanwhile I " I PITCHED MY TEXT UNDER SOME SHADY PALMS.

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. it is believed. of a still older stronghold. rovers piously named it These enterprising sea"Jesus Fort." occupation remains fortress. built in the shape of the grim old about 1593 on the site. The Portuguese occupation . Egyptian idols. from 1505 to 1729 by a permanent memorial of whose "JESUS FORT. and of coins of the early Persian and Chinese dynasties. goes to show that it must at different ages have been settled by people of the very earliest times. Coming off to more modern was held on and the Portuguese. it civilisations." and an is still inscription recording this to be seen over the of main entrance.

is pathetic to read that fleet only two days later a large Portuguese off the harbour. remain in nominal possession of to the present Mombasa day . which in 1888 was formed . returned the next year ever. treachery and famine. the little garrison held out valiantly in Jesus Fort. until last December 12. to the sword. they did not succeed. sur- rounded the In spite of plague. After this the Portuguese made attempts to reconquer Mombasa. when the town was stormed and captured by General Sampayo. The Arabs. but in 1887 Seyid Bargash. but were unsuc- cessful until 1728. The in Arabs. both men and appeared several women. 1696. determined attack and captured the It putting the remnant of the defenders. when the Arabs made a citadel.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO Mombasa was. to regain their lost supremacy. the then Sultan of Zanzibar. not without its vicissitudes. although the latter made one more attempt in 1769 . From March 15. how- overwhelming and again drove the Portuguese out and numbers. as represented by the Sultan of Zanzibar. to which they had been forced to retire. which completely island. 1698. for example. gave for an annual rental a concession of his mainland territories to the British East Africa Association. the town was besieged for thirty-three consecutive months by a large fleet of Arab dhows. however. bringing the long-looked-for rein- forcements.

Altogether.. Mombasa . East Africa Company." so recently as 1895-6. ever. The last serious fighting on the island took place "KILINDIM is . and was finally forced to flee southwards into has in German territory.IO THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP.. proclaimed . and a Protectorate was into the Imperial British and ten years later the administration of the country was transferred to the Colonial Office. ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OK THE ISLAND. who had three times previously risen in rebellion against the Sultan of Zanzibar. when a Swahili chief named M'baruk bin Rashed. attempted to defy the British and to throw off their He was defeated on several occasions. howyoke. In 1895 the Foreign Office took over control of the Company's possessions.

has a much finer harbour than The channel between that possessed by Mombasa.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO the past well deserved its ii native name of Kisiwa M'vita. and as name " the place of deep waters" implies. it does a large forwarding trade with the "THE PLACE OF DEEP WATERS. and as the port of entry Uganda. or "Isle of rule War". readily be obtained. from a needle to an anchor. but under the settled now obtaining. as I have its said. may Kilindini is. it is rapidly becoming a thriving for and prosperous town. ." interior and has several excellent stores where almost anything. on the opposite side of the island.

being always used by the liners and heavier vessels. the principal Medical Officer and .12 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO island CHAP. the and the mainland is here capable of giving commodious and safe anchorage to the very largest vessels. I found the journey a most interesting one. about one hundred and thirty-two miles from the charge of the construction of the section of the line at that place. called the Salisbury Bridge. The island of Mombasa separated from the mainland by the Strait of Macupa. and on . the Superintendent of Works. park upwards through country. and as the jetty is directly connected with the Uganda Railway. For twenty miles our train main- wound steadily . McCulloch. in honour of the great Minister for Foreign Affairs under whose direction the Uganda Railway scheme was underafter reaching the taken. and was becoming very anxious to get my marching orders. as the country was in every way new is to me. and the railway crosses this by a bridge about three-quarters of a mile long. when one morning I was delighted to receive an official letter instructing me to proceed to Tsavo. and Dr. Anderson. I had spent nearly a week in Mombasa.like beautifully wooded. daylight I accordingly started at next morning in a special train with Mr. Kilindini has now really become the principal port. which had just then coast. land. and to take been reached by railhead.

We managed. fine if Dr. From here onward game more or less plentiful. The summit of the Rabai Hills having been reached.i MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO 13 looking back out of the carriage windows we could every now and again obtain lovely views of Mombasa and Kilindini. the next and greater difficulty. McCulloch having a race with us. we entered on the expanse of the Taru Desert. and finds the carriage as is way into everything in the train passes along. This its dust is of a most penetrating character. prize. As our \ve train sped onwards through the level uplands ostrich striding along parallel with saw a line. at once seized his rifle and by a lucky shot brought the as down the huge bird . and also noticed some of the natives." but almost the only difference to be noticed in the character of the country was that the colour of the dust had changed. while beyond these the Indian Ocean sparkled in the glorious sunshine as far as the eye could see. the to catch sight of a few from the carriage windows. a wilderness covered with poor scrub and stunted trees. Wa Nyika. but the animals are very difficult to see owing to the thick undergrowth in which they hide themselves." At Maungu. or "children of the wilderness. some eighty miles from the coast. was to secure the For a time the . and carpeted in the dry season with a layer of fine red dust. however. however. we came to the end of this "desert.

about a hundred this miles from the coast." Soon after this we reached Voi. we soon discovered that a pleasant change had occurred in the character of . was shunted back to where be the ostrich We found it to to an all exceptionally fine specimen.14 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO signals CHAP. and we succeeded in attracting his and the had train fallen. and as was the most yet important station on the line that to. but at last attention. resuming our journey. and had exert our strength to drag it on board the train. we had come we made a short halt in order to inspect some construction work which was On going on. engine-driver took no notice of our shouts. "A LUCKY SHOT BROUGHT DOWN THE HUGE BIRD.

the dwelling- " I SLEPT THAT NIGHT IN A LITTLE PALM HUT. the railway runs for wooded country. towards dusk. we arrived at our destination. while on our right rose the rigid brow of the N'dungu Escarpment. which stretches away westwards for scores of miles. some miles through a beautifully which looked all the more inviting after the deadly monotony of the wilderness through which we had just passed. To the south of us could be seen the N'dii range of mountains. From a place called N'dii.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO the landscape. Here our journey was slow. to inspect the permanent works in progress but eventually. I slept that night in a . Tsavo. as every now and again we stopped ." place of the Wa Taita people.

country as far as could see was covered with low " stunted trees. appeared to be for the railway where the narrow track had been cut. presented a ghastly and sun- and here and there a ridge of dark-red heat-blistered rock jutted out above the stricken appearance . whom they might devour. and added by its rugged barrenness to the dreariness of the picture. wait-a-bit " The only clearing. I could see the stars I twinkling through little knew then neighbouro that what adventures awaited me in this hood time . not even possessing a door. thick undergrowth and thorns. This interminable nyika.16 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. I found that the whole r . was rather broken-down and I dilapidated. and two if I had realised that brutes at very savage were prowling I round. hardly think in my rickety Next morning I was up betimes. eager to make acquaintance with my new surroundings. My first impression on coming out of my hut was that I was hemmed a little in on all : sides penetrable jungle hill by a dense growth of imand on scrambling to the top of I close at hand. or wilderness of whitish and leafless dwarf trees. little palm hut which had been built by some previous traveller. and which was fortunately unoccupied It for the time being. and as lay on my narrow camp bed the roof. Away to the north-east . jungle. seeking I should have slept so peacefully shelter. indeed.

I returned to my hut. and began I When earnest to make preparations for my stay in this out- of-the-way place. and little my "boys" pitched my tent in a clearing close . The one redeeming This is feature of the neighits bourhood was the river from which Tsavo takes a swiftly-flowing stream. the general monotony of the had thus obtained a rough idea of the in neighbourhood. the being an exceptional "THIS INTERMINABLE Ityika" attribute in this part of East Africa of lofty green relief trees to along its and the fringe banks formed a . while far off to the south I could just catch a glimpse of the snow-capped top of towering Kilima N j'aro. The stores were unpacked. welcome landscape.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO N'dungu Escarp- stretched the unbroken line of the ment. always cool latter and always running. name.

i8 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO where I CHAP. My principal to work was complete miles to erect the all permanent structure. to had slept the night before and not far Railhead had from the main camp of the workmen. and sent my . and some thousands of Indian coolies and other the line workmen were encamped there. a diversion had been made and the river crossed by means to of a temporary bridge." had be pushed on with all speed. As " THE RIVER CROSSED BY MEANS OF A TEMPORARY BRIDGE. at this time just reached the western side of the river. and the other works for a distance of side thirty on each survey of of Tsavo. to I accordingly made a what had be done.

C 2 . came pouring drilling district. through the and blasting. and the workmen and noise of hammers echoed merrily and sledges.MY ARRIVAL AT TSAVO requisition for labour. supplies In a short time in. tools and material to the head- quarters at Kilindini. WOMEN OF UGANDA.

Many a time the . they actually succeeded in bringing the they were not always successful railway works to a complete standstill for about three weeks.CHAPTER II THE FIRST APPEARANCE OF THE MAN-EATERS UNFORTUNATELY continue for long. This when a perfect reign of terror in December. in it in the vicinity of Tsavo. but as time went on they stopped at nothing and indeed braved any danger in order to obtain their favourite food. Their methods then became so uncanny. in happy state of affairs did not and our work was soon interrupted this a rude and startling manner. and for over nine months waged an intermittent warfare against the railway and all those connected with culminated 1898. firmly believed that they were not real animals but devils in lions' shape. Two most voraci- ous and insatiable man-eating lions appeared upon the scene. and their man-stalking so well-timed and so certain of success. At first in their efforts to carry off a victim. that the work- men at all.

no time in lost making an examina- tion of the place. and dragged Naturally off I and eaten. and was told that they their tents had been carried off by night from and devoured by lions. I was roused one morning about daybreak and told that one of my jemadars. the hands of some of it They happened. This suspicion. and was more inclined to believe that the unfortunate at men had been the victims of foul play their comrades. About three weeks after my arrival. so I thought it were. was absolutely They were quite convinced that the angry spirits of two departed native chiefs had taken this form in order to protest against a railway being made through to their country. as quite likely that some scoundrels from for the the gangs had murdered them sake of their money. At the time I did not credit this story. very good workmen. and had each saved a fair number of rupees.CH. Shortly afterwards one or two coolies I mysteriously disappeared. insult and by stopping its progress thus shown to them. ii APPEARANCE OF THE MAN-EATERS me that it 21 coolies solemnly assured useless to attempt to shoot them. I avenge the had only been a few days at Tsavo when I first heard that these brutes had been seen in the neighbourhood. was very soon dispelled. however. a fine powerful Sikh named Ungan Singh. and was soon convinced that the . had been seized in his tent during the night.

The next moment he was gone. We an easy matter to follow the route taken by the lion. while the furrows made by the heels of the victim showed the direction in which he had been dragged away. himself met with a it tragic fate very shortly afterwards.22 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO indeed been carried off by a lion. Singh must have died hard but what chance had he? As a coolie gravely remarked. who happened be staying at Tsavo found at the time. He graphicat about midnight. Moreover. and one of his bedfellows had actually witnessed the occurrence. as he appeared to have stopped several times before beginning his meal. poor fellow. CHAP. and threw arms up round the lion's neck. and his panic-stricken companions lay helpless. fellow cried out his O0n? " (" Let go"). the jemadar shared his tent with half a dozen other workmen. where he doubtless . forced to listen to the terrible Poor Ungan struggle which took place outside. fighting with a lion " ? I On hearing this dreadful story at once set out to try to track the animal. suddenly put seized its head in at the open tent door and Ungan Singh " the opening who happened to be nearest The unfortunate by the throat. man had as its "pug" marks were plainly visible in the sand. and was accompanied by to Captain Haslem. and who. the lion ally described how. " Was he not . Pools of blood marked these halting-places.

(I have been led to believe that this is their custom from the I appearance of two half-eaten bodies which : subse- quently rescued the skin was gone in places. all round was covered with blood and morsels of flesh and bones.) THE TENT FROM WHICH Jemadar UNGAN SINGH WAS CARRIED OFF. but the unfortunate jemadars head left intact. reaching the spot where the body had been devoured.n APPEARANCE OF THE MAN-EATERS 23 indulged in the man-eaters' habit of licking the skin off so as to get at the fresh blood. had been save for the holes made by the lion's tusks on seizing him. and lay a short distance away from the other remains. the eyes staring wide . as if it had been sucked. The ground a dreadful spectacle presented itself. and On the flesh looked dry.

experience of man-eating I Thus occurred my lions. for first there and then that would no pains to I little neighbourhood of the knew the trouble that was in store rid the me.24 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. and I vowed spare brutes. for we did not bury. Shortly after settling hopes of bagging one of the brutes were raised by the sound of their ominous down my vigil. open with a startled. Presently this . return to for hoping that the lions would I was followed to another victim. but took back to camp for identification before the Medical Officer. We collected the remains as well as we could and its heaped stones on them. or how narrow were to be my own escapes from sharing poor Ungan Singh's fate. horrified look in them. more terrified coolies. perch by a few of the. but no more doors were open. The place was considerably cut up. the head with terrified stare seeming to watch us all the it fixed. one barrel loaded with ball and the other with to slug. That same night I sat up in a tree close to the late jemadars it tent. had with me my 303 and a 12 -bore shot gun. It was the most gruesome sight I had ever seen. my roaring coming closer and closer. and on closer examination we found that two lions had been there and had probably struggled for possession of the body. begged to be allowed to sit up in the tree with my all who me . time. the other workmen remained left in I their tents.

as one of men his turn I lamp was followed by another leading a goat. . my however. but the feeling I well remember of impotent enced when cries disappointment I experiabout midnight I heard screams and and a heartrending shriek. did not at the idea of walking the half-mile to the place after dark. hoping to get a shot. which told me that the man-eaters had again eluded me and had claimed another victim elsewhere. therefore. All at once. shortly after I A steady commenced had settled down night of watching. I took up I my position all like in a suitable tree near this tent. we heard a great uproar and frenzied cries coming from another camp about half lions a mile away . we knew then that the lions had seized a victim there. my He in tempted drizzle to seize it instead of a coolie. and quiet reigned for an hour or two. my uncomfortable post. Next morning I found that one of the brutes had broken into a tent at Railhead Camp whence we had heard the commotion during the night and had made off with a poor wretch who was lying there asleep. and I was soon thoroughly I stuck to chilled and wet. but all the same I felt fairly safe. however. and that we should see or hear nothing further of them that night. as always stalk their prey in complete silence.ii APPEARANCE OF THE MAN-EATERS 25 ceased. After a night's rest. which tied under my tree in the hope that the lion might be to carried a bright close behind me.

In a thick jungle of the kind round Tsavo the hunted animal has every chance against the hunter. moreover. to have an extraordinary and uncanny faculty of finding out our plans beforehand. so that the lions had a range of some eight miles on either side of Tsavo to work upon . from there onwards. it was most difficult to forestall them. in such a camp. time the various camps for the workmen were very scattered. gave up hope of some day finding their lair. a dead twig or something of the sort is sure to crackle just at the Still I never critical moment and so give the alarm. time when attempting I to force to my way through this bewildering tangle had be released by r my gun" . as however careful the latter may be. " bearer from the fast clutches of the w ait-a-bit and often with immense pains only to lose the trail I succeeded in tracing the lions to the river after they had seized a victim. particular place they invariably avoided that and seized their victim for the night from some other Hunting them by day.26 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO At this CHAP. dense wilderness as surrounded us. and accordingly continued to devote all my spare time to Many a crawling about through the undergrowth. They almost appeared. and as their tactics seemed to be to break into a different camp each night. so that no matter in how likely or how tempting a spot we lay in wait for them. owing to . was an exceedingly tiring and really foolhardy undertaking. too.

who quickly made his way up the nearest tree and remained there. and the lion was just about to seize the trader. I At this early stage of the struggle. and one or two relieve amusing incidents occurred to the tension from which our nerves were On one occasion an enterprisbeginning to suffer. his tent one night. The donkey was other his claws badly wounded. oil The rattle were strung across the donkey's and clatter made by these as he dragged them after him gave him such a fright that he turned tail and bolted off into the jungle. a shivering with fear. for the rest of the night. to the intense relief of the terrified bunniah. off with the mattress Though rudely awakened. am glad to in their say. Shortly after this Greek contractor equally named Themistocles Pappadimitrini had an marvellous escape. and seized on which he was He and made lying. the lions were not always successful a efforts to capture human being for their nightly meal. ing bunniah (Indian trader) was riding along on his donkey late one night. when in some way. was sleeping peacefully in when a lion broke in. the Greek was quite unhurt and suffered from nothing worse than a .ii APPEARANCE OF THE MAN-EATERS 27 the rocky nature of the ground which they to seemed be careful to choose in retreating to their den. knocking over both man and in beast. when suddenly a lion sprang out on him. episode. or became entangled tins a rope by which two empty neck.

On another occasion fourteen coolies who slept together in a large tent were one night awakened by a lion suddenly jumping on to the tent and breaking through it. CH. but perished miserably of thirst on the way. and except as food they beings. met with a melancholy fate not long afterwards. shouting and firebrands they alike held in derision. they would allow nothing to deter them from securing him. which was badly torn . and made off with it. as will be seen. . Shots. The brute landed with one claw on a coolie's shoulder. however. n bad This same man. but instead of seizing the man himself. whether he were protected by a thick fence. flurried or frightened them in the least. These. however. or inside a closed tent. were only the earlier efforts of Later on. showed a complete contempt for human Having once marked down a victim. and on cut the return journey attempted to take a short across country to the railway. in his hurry he grabbed a large bag of rice which happened to be lying in the tent. or sitting round a brightly burning fire. dropping it in disgust some little distance away when he realised his mistake. to the Kilima N 'jaro district to buy He had been cattle. nothing the man-eaters.28 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO fright.

Rose. how- ever. plainly revealed the pug marks of a lion.VS c. so that on that occasion I fancy one or other of us this experience. we were awakened about midnight by hearing something tumbling about among the tent ropes.[TIIK AI'THOR. \V. . was staying with me. Warned by . Dr.'' -CHAPTER III THE ATTACK ON THE GOODS-WAGON ALL this time my own tent was pitched in an open clearing. " " Daylight. but on going out with a lantern we could discover nothing. unprotected by a fence of any kind One night when the medical officer. round it.] [MR. had a narrow escape. KAW'SON ] "MY 0\VX TENT PITCHED IX AN OPEN CLEARING.

Brock." and we had surrounded by a circular boma. close to the old caravan route leading to Uganda .30 at THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO once arranged to move to take medical CHAP. and went to join forces with Dr. well it made and thick and high. or thorn fence. the verandah of this hut in the evenings but was . at who had just arrived district.M LEAVES AND BOUGHS. and a bright night. I my quarters. about seventy yards in diameter. Tsavo charge of the We we shared a hut of palm leaves and boughs. was always kept up throughout the sake of coolness. Brock and I used For the under it to sit out . which had constructed on the eastern side of the river. Our personal servants fire also lived within the enclosure. "\VE SHARED A HUT OF PAI.

too. and be on us before we were therefore kept our rifles within easy aware. been surrounded by thorn fences nevertheless the lions managed to jump over or to break through . By also this time." On but one or two occasions. the camps of the workmen had . We reach. we found in the morning fence .in THE ATTACK ON THE GOODS-WAGON trying to 31 our nerves to attempt to read or write there. as we never knew when a lion might rather spring over the boma. and cast many an anxious beyond the glance out into the of the firelight. inky darkness circle "THE CAMPS OF THE WORKMEN HAD ALSO BEEN SURROUNDED BY THORN FENCES. that the lions had come quite close to the in fortunately they never succeeded getting through.

Each man felt.32 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CH. scattered over a Tsavo. I with the railway. I suppose. were kept burning Within these enclosures all fires night. matters altered considerably. the attentions of the lions became more apparent and made a deeper impression. men to and as all the complete the permanent works remaining workmen were naturally camped together. the chances of their selecting him in particular were But when the large camp moved ahead very small. was then left with only some few hundred . area to as Railhead Camp with its two or three thousand wide remained take at men. and it required powers of persuasion to induce the men to stay on. and it was also the duty of the night-watchman to keep clattering half a dozen empty oil tins suspended from a convenient tree. I succeeded in doing so only by allowing them to knock off all regular work until my they had built exceptionally thick and high bonias round each camp. that as the man-eaters had such a large number of victims to choose from. in some one or other nights a of these. however. panic A regular all consequently ensued. workman coming in So long. These he manipulated by means of a long . and regularly every few carried off. In fact. the coolies appeared not much notice of the dreadful deaths of their comrades. man was the reports of the to disappearance of this or that me with painful frequency.

am D .

cessful. and in doing so box containing medical stores. he was more sucas he jumped on to and broke through a which eight patients were lying. their camp was stood rather apart from the other camps. unfortunately. Two of . as if barriers were of no avail against the "demons ". It seemed. while sitting in safety within his tent frightful and the up all noise thus produced was kept at frequent intervals during the night in the hopes of terrifying away the man-eaters. which gave the Assistant such a fright that he jumped backwards. for before very long one of them found a weak spot in the boma and broke through. however. in a clearing about three-quarters of a mile from my hut. CHAP. but was all protected by a good thick fence and to appear- ance was quite secure. however. The beast made a spring towards him. When hospital the railhead left workmen moved behind. On this occasion the HearHospital Assistant had a marvellous escape. he opened the door of his tent and was yards away looking at him. It on. the lions would not be denied. rope. horrified to see a great lion standing a few ing a noise outside. In spite of these precautions. tent in Here. luckily upset a This crashed down with such a loud clatter of breaking glass that the lion was startled for the moment and made off to another part of the enclosure. and men continued to disappear.34 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO .

a piece of torn tent and in this position the over them found them on our arrival soon after . while a third poor wretch was seized and dragged off The two wounded bodily through the thorn fence. We at once decided to move the hospital closer to the main camp . a fresh site a all enclosure. A PIECE OF TORN TENT HAVING FALLEN OVER THEM. decided to up all night in the D 2 .in THE ATTACK ON THE GOODS-WAGON 35 them were badly wounded by his spring. coolies were left having fallen I doctor and where they lay. "THE TWO WOUNDED COOLIES WERE LEFT WHERE THEY LAY. and hedge built round the the patients were moved in before stout lions generally visit recently sit As I had heard that I deserted camps. nightfall. was prepared." dawn next morning.

seized out. managed to him by the box and pulled him In desperation the un- fortunate water-carrier clutched hold of a heavy in a vain attempt to prevent himself being carried off. As soon as the lion managed his throat to get him after clear of the tent. then caught hold of a tent rope. with his head towards the centre of the tent and his feet nearly touching the side. and dragged it with him until he was forced to let go by He being stopped by the side of the tent. like a huge cat with a mouse. to the place at daylight I Hurrying found that one of the lions had jumped over the newly erected fence and had carried off the hospital bhisti (water-carrier). me only too plainly dreaded foes had once more eluded me. The bhisti. and he sprang at a few vicious shakes the poor bhisti s agonising cries were silenced for ever. and clung its it tightly to until it broke. vacated boma in the hope of getting an opportunity of bagging one of them but in the middle of my . and that several other coolies had been unwilling witnesses of the terrible scene which took place within the circle of light given by the big camp fire. The brute then seized him in his mouth. it appears. The lion get foot its head in below the canvas.36 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. lonely vigil I had the mortification of hearing shrieks direction and cries coming from the telling of the that new our hospital. had been lying on the floor. and ran up and down the boma .

castes). with the teeth (a much prized by certain in India. had a covered goods-wagon placed in a favourable position on a siding which ran close to the site which had just been abandoned. was sent to the man's widow Again again. and also tied up a few cattle in in it as bait for the lions. Four miles from Tsavo they had attempted to seize a coolie who was walking along the line. This he found and plunged into. who had been places in seen the no less than three different neighbourhood during the afternoon (April 23). it was decided to move the hospital . On one of these relic was a silver ring. Dr. and this. and to sit in this Brock and I arranged still up that night. We left a couple of tents standing within the enclosure. and before nightfall.in THE ATTACK ON THE GOODS-WAGON weak spot to 37 looking for a presently break through. Fortu- . including a stronger and thicker boma. I When the patients had been moved. of the unfortunate bhisti Very only the skull. still the work was completed. dragging his victim with him and leaving shreds of torn cloth and flesh as ghastly evidences of his passage through the thorns. and soon found the remains about in four hundred yards away the bush. Brock and I were easily able to follow his track. little There was left was the usual horrible sight. a few of the larger bones and a portion of the palm with one or two fingers attached. the jaws.

quiet. tree. however. the doctor and I set out after dinner for the goods-wagon. reached our destination to our in safety. he had just time to escape up a where he remained. nately. In the light of subsequent events. we did a very foolish thing in taking up our position so late nevertheless. more dead than alive. . In accordance with our plan. Soon afterwards we heard a dull thud. which. some heavy body had The cattle. until he was rescued by the Traffic Manager. to our right. however. and settled down the watch about ten o'clock. who They caught sight of him from a passing train. a dry twig snapped. when suddenly. and a couple of hours later some workmen saw one of the lions stalking Dr. and we could hear them moving about restlessly. we were unable to see in the inky darkness.38 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. and we knew that an animal of some sort was about. we . Brock as he was returning about dusk from the hospital. Then again came dead silence. while : upper half was left wide open for observation and we faced. which was about a mile away from our hut. as jumped over the boma. For an hour or two everything was and the deadly silence was becoming very monotonous and oppressive. in the direction of the abandoned bovia. We had the lower half of the door of the wagon closed. of course. became if very uneasy. next appeared close to Tsavo Station. too.

thought he had seen lest I to say so something move. As a matter however. I saw something coming very I towards feared. my eyes. silently reconnoitring our Presently stealthily to I fancied us. for at that very did moment one of the man-eaters although we not know it was quietly stalking us. so under my breath I asked Brock whether he saw anything. come in our direction with Brock. as I could see better in that that position should the lion his prey. Orders had been given for the entrance to the boma to be blocked up. he was closed. at the I same time covering the dark object as well as . outside position. and a few seconds afterwards I was heartily glad that had taken his advice. however. of fact. but was afraid . all the time. could with my rifle. however. persuaded me to remain I where I was .in THE ATTACK ON THE GOODS-WAGON At this juncture I I 39 proposed to my companion should get out of the wagon and lie on the ground close to it. to trust which by that time were strained by prolonged staring through the darkness. and was even then almost within springing distance. Brock did not answer he told me afterwards that he. and accordingly we were listening in the expectation of hearing the lion force his way out through the bushes with his prey. too. the doorway had not been properly and while we were wondering what the lion could be doing inside the boma for so long.

and we realised that we had had a very lucky and very narrow escape. fold alert. inch or two. The next morning we found Brock's bullet embedded have in the could not sand close to a footprint it missed the lion by more than an . he would undoubtedly have got one of us. The lion I shouted. Mine was nowhere first to be found. and we too both fired almost simultaneously not a moment it soon. After this there was intense " silence again " ! for a second or two. off in As was. then with a sudden bound a huge body sprang at us. probably blinded by the flash and frightened by the noise of the double report which was increased a hundred- by the reverberation of the hollow iron roof of Had we not been very much on the the truck.40 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO fire CH. direct encounter with one of . Thus ended my the man-eaters. in should and it turn out to be nothing after all. for in another second the brute would assuredly have landed inside the wagon. he must have swerved his spring.

While this on. another gang of men were laying the foundations of a girder bridge which was to span for all traffic to pass was going . rock-drillers to work at once and soon had ample room made unimpeded.CHAPTER IV THE BUILDING OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE troublesome period the construction of the railway had been going steadily forward all this DURING and the first important piece of work which arrival I had commenced on was completed. I . and consequently any material which happened to project outside the wagons or trucks caught on the jagged for room myself saw the door of a guard's van. smashed to atoms in this way and accordingly I put a gang of faces of the cutting. it This was the widening of a rock cutting through which the railway ran just before reached the river. In the hurry of pushing on the laying of the just enough to allow of the rock had originally been cut away an engine to pass. line. which had been left ajar.

This would have taken too long to erect when rail- head was round to the side. On one occasion in particular. and the permanent way laid on an easy grade. went a long way up the my was and was accompanied by a young member of staff. but nevertheless he decided to give it a trial. so a diversion had been made the temporary track leading down almost bed of the nullah and up again on the further When the foundations and abutments were was spanned by an iron girder. took my While doing this. a gully between this cutting and Tsavo Station. When little it was finished. and a luncheon served with occasionally a friend to share it in the wilds. so when our work my should build a raft companion suggested that we and float down-stream home. we pushed out of the backwater . The day had been exceedingly hot and tired we were both correspondingly finished. I often camp-kit with me. we soon had a raft lashing the poles together with the fibre which grows in abundance all over the it district. ting to work with our axes. the gully Then. I feasibility of the was rather doubtful of the scheme.42 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. also. when a river friend was available I was delightful. at the place. and this meant some very pleasant work me in taking levels up the banks of the river under the cool shade of the palms. the slopes leading up to it banked up on either side. a water supply had to be established for . ready. Setbuilt. it.

moment my time was fully occupied. he laughed as heartily as I at the adventure. it when much I promptly toppled gracefully friend to scramble quickly up the bank out of reach my amusement over.] : [MR.] A LUNCHEON SERVED IN THE WILDS. when. and the young All went well until it got engineer jumped aboard. RAWSON." his ducking. Superintending the various works and a hundred other duties kept me busy all day long. where out into midstream. none the worse for [THE AUTHOR. while my . Except every for an occasional relaxation of of this sort. c.iv THE BUILDING OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE it 43 had been constructed. WITH OCCASIONALLY A FRIEND TO SHARE IT. helped my to of possible crocodiles.

too. Then we found we had to sink much deeper than foundation. Another great difficulty with which we had to contend was the absence of suitable stone in the neighbourhood. and low levels had to be found. we struck solid rock on foundation-stones could be laid with perfect safety. despair of finding one and was began about to resort to pile-driving. the sinking went on and on. It was not that there was none to .44 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. hearing reports the various among jemadars and complaints from and workpeople. to my which the huge relief. current and the volume of water at all mean. for the principal piece of work the river building of the railway bridge over the Tsavo were going personal on apace. and in Preparations. the rate of the flood. These involved much work on my part cross and oblique . as the river broke in several times. in the district studying the Swahili language. when at last. I These having at length been marked out the positions for the piers. completed. and the work of sinking their The two centre piers in foundations was begun. evenings were given up to settling disputes the coolies. and had to be dammed particular up and pumped dry again before work could be resumed. abutments and caused a great deal of trouble. and the necessary calculations made. until I we expected to in order to reach a solid Indeed. sections of the river had to be taken.

and on examination found that the bank of the ravine was formed of stone.iv THE BUILDING OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE district 45 be found. to and was beginning think that we should be forced to use iron columns for the piers.hunting. on getting should drive them over in my direction. for the whole but that it abounds in rock. another chance. was so intensely hard as to be almost impossible to work. for Brock had got to work. crouching down among the ferns. when one day and accident on the very thing. though at first I had grave misgivings about the distance to be traversed and the difficulty of transporting the stone across the . had scarcely time to load when over flew a which I missed badly and I did not have I . and which was exactly the kind of which I had long been fruitlessly was greatly delighted with my unexpected discovery. which extended for some distance. " stumbled quite by Brock and I were out I pot." cackling hearing I some guinea-fowl circuit half in his shot. and a bridge built of it would I have been very costly. and being a first-rate shot had quickly bagged a brace. Meanwhile I felt the ground very hard under my knee. spent many a weary day trudging through the thorny wilderness vainly searching for suitable material. I among the bushes. made a round them so that Brock. There bird. eventually got into position on the edge of a deep ravine and knelt on one knee. for I material searching.

grew so tame that it would at meal times and eat from my When the road for the trolley line was cleared. who promptly dropped it and held fast. Accordingly. to save the graceful little animal's and took it home to my camp. intervening country. the a basket over it jemadar. One morning when they were thus engaged. the next piece of work was the building of the two . that the only found in the end way of getting the material to the place where it was wanted was by laying down a along the ravine. to I set men cut work at once to down the jungle and prepare a road on which to lay the double trolley line. Terrified it of the men. tram line right throwing a the temporary bridge across the Tsavo. following stream down and re-crossing it again close to the site of the permanent bridge. table jump upon my hand. a little paa a kind of very " small antelope IT sprang out VERY SOON BECAME A GREAT PET _" and round in i r i suddenly the midst of a gang ir itself 111 of coolies. I happened it to arrive just in time life. and confused by the shouting ran straight at Shere Shah. I CHAP. where it very soon became a great pet.46 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO Indeed. indeed.

and had a flood come down away .iv THE BUILDING OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE river. this did not occur until the permanent work was completed. An amusing day when I was taking a photograph of an enormous block of stone which incident occurred one . they would. of course. however. have both been swept fortunately. and trollies were soon plying backwards and also forwards with loads of stone and sand.RA SINGH MADE A WILD SPRING INTO THE WATER TO GET CLEAR OF THE FALLING STONE. as discovered quality in we the the latter in abundance and of good bed of the ravine." this feeding line was finished in a very short time. 47 temporary bridges over the in the These we made roughest fashion out of palm trees and logs felled at the crossing places. The whole of HEF.

superintended the gangs of men who hauled the ropes at either end in order to steady it up and down the inclines. It rest fled as for their lives to sight. no one was injured in the operation. came to the sharp incline which led to the log bridge . and the stone was recovered undamaged with but little trouble. Heera direct Purshotam Hurjee. But we did not know that the in stream had succeeded washing away the foundaand as the weight tions of one of the log supports of the trolley with the stone came on the under. heavy load required head mason. Not long after this occurrence my own labours were one day nearly brought to a sudden and unI was travelling along in an empty pleasant end. trolley which. was altogether a most comical at the very I and an extraordinary chance that of the accident moment should be taking a photograph of Fortunately. pushed by two sturdy Pathans. stood on the top of the stone to operations. while the overseer. the rails tilted up and over went the as I whole thing into the picture. my Singh. just snapped the into the Heera Singh made a wild spring to water get clear of the falling if stone. mined pier. As the trolley with its very careful manipulation. river. was being hauled across one of these temporary bridges. while Purshotam and the the bank. the slightest.48 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. was Presently we returning to the quarry for sand.

slope. the heavy trolley falling clear of also.iv THE BUILDING OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE river. and flew without brake of any kind. leaping off. where I was I afraid the trolley would jump the rails still. flying head river. down Near the hill we the bridge was a sharp curve in the line. dull was happily .beside the trolley. thought it was better to stick to it than to risk there . unattended by injury to anyone. This accident. the pole was by some accident dropped overboard. just missing by a hair's breadth a projecting beam but luckily I landed on a sand bank at the side of the s . which one of them carried and by which the wheels could be locked. 49 over the was the custom of the men. A first moment afterwards I felt myself over the edge of the bridge. however. to step on to it and to let its own momentum take it down the it Here speed when necessary by a brake in the shape of a pole. me with a thud close by. instead of running. moderating its On this occasion.

for the time being at any rate. and drew up a scale of pay which would enable the genuine . I our troubles with the lions . arose with the workmen themselves.CHAPTER V TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN IT seemed fated that the building of the Tsavo peace Bridge should never be allowed to proceed for in any length of time. have already described and no sooner did the beasts of prey appear to have deserted us. than other troubles. of them had not the faintest notion of stone-cutting. and were simply ordinary coolies who had posed as masons in order to draw forty-five instead of twelve rupees a month. I imme- diately instituted a system of piece-work. I had discovered the stone for the bridge. to I sent down dress to the coast for gangs of it. On discovering this fact. no less After serious. masons sent work and for this The men who were me purpose were mostly Pathans and were supposed to be expert workmen but I soon found that many .

the impostors in the majority .CH. knew had demanded only a perfectly that of work from each man. I ran back with him at once and but found seven badly out on the ground. v TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN to earn his forty-five rupees a mason a little month and more if he felt inclined and would cut down the impostors to about their proper pay as coolies. sitting after one evening at the door of my hut. as is often the case in this world. I had to play (native beds) These . were greatly and accordingly they attempted to intimidate the remainder into coming down to their own standard as regards output of thereby inducing abandon the piece-work system of payment. was dusk One particularly serious disturbance of this sort I a rather amusing sequel. as work. succeeded injured in restoring order. which lay Presently a only a few hundred yards away. jemadar came rushing up to me to say that the men were all fighting and murdering each other with sticks and stones. Now. I had no intention of doing. when I heard a great commotion in the masons' camp. and I had frequently to go down to their camp to quell disturbances and had to separate the Hindus from the Mohammedans. men I lying stretched had carried up to my own boma on charpoys and Brock being away. E 2 . in the hope of me I to This. however. I fair amount These masons were continually having quarrels and fights amongst themselves.

and accord- him that I would send him to the hospital line) Voi (about thirty miles down the to be attended to properly. I gave instructions that he was not . groaning grievously all the time. however. who possible. got some brandy and ran down to the camp. Scarcely had he been removed. when the head jemadar came and informed me that the man was not hurt at all. On to I hearing this. and that as a matter of fact he was the sole cause of the disturbance. go to Voi in the special train with the others but had not heard the last of him yet. groaned loudly and held a cloth over his face as On lifting this covering. concluded that he must have received some ingly told at internal injury. his He was then carried back to camp. stitching one and bandaging another and generally doing what was There was one man. at once pulled my boots. where . He was now pretending to be badly injured. who if was well known to I me as a prime mischief-maker carefully. among I the men.52 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO I CHAP. him to be a certain mason called Karim Bux. in order to escape the punishment which he knew he would receive if I discovered that he was the instigator of the trouble. examined him I but as could discover nothing amiss. the doctor myself as best could. I found he were dying. About eleven I o'clock that night was called up and asked on to go down to the masons' to camp I to see a man who was supposed be dying.

\\e pulling the blanket over his head. "foxing. There were around. also a score or so of his friends hanging of doubtless waiting in the expectation When the bed seeing the "Sahib" hoodwinked. \. but was told that he was too I I asked for ill to walk. was placed on the ground near me. that for he was only (medicine). and a few moments he arrived in his charpoy. accordingly ordered him to be carried to in my boma. knew quite well that he was only shamming. put them under the bed and set fire to . at the same time feeling him to make sure that fever. He pretended to be desperately ill and again asked for dawa but having finally satisfied myself that it was . Next day at noon when it was my custom to told have evil-doers brought up for judgment Karim Bux. and carefully covered him up again. I lifted the blanket with which he had covered himself and he had no thoroughly examined him." but I when he asked dawa him gravely that I would give him some very good dawa in the morning. I could see.v TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN I 53 my surprise and amusement my friend Karim Bux who was was perfectly evident to me to found that it was It at death's door. I then got a big armful of shavings from a carpenter's bench which was close by. which was shouldered by four coolies who. as jemadar had said pure budmashi (devilment) I told him that I was going to give him some very effective dawa.

and hammers . watched little their pro- ceedings through the bushes for a while. fright then firing it occurred to rifle me to give them a my over their heads. I watch night. sprang from the bed " exclaiming devil ! Beiman fled skaitan!" ("Unbelieving "). he threw the blanket from him. who got in a couple of good whacks on his shoulders with a stout stick before he effected his escape. pursued by a Sikh sepoy. On the report : being heard. later in never had any He came back imploring the day. he . and further trouble with Karim Bux. for the man-eaters during the Coming unexpectedly to find on the was amazed dead silence reigning stretched out in the it I and my rascals of workmen all shade under the trees taking sleeping. His amused comrades greeted me with shouts of " Shabash. very easy some and by some playing cards. as he was a few days after this incident I was returning home one morning from a tree in which I had been A keeping previous quarry. peeped over the edge of the blanket and when he saw the smoke and flame leaping up round him. I Sahib!" ("Well done. sham invalid felt the heat. which clever workman.54 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO As soon as the CHAP. readily granted. the scene changed like magic each man simply flew to his particular work. and like a deer to the entrance of my boma. sir!"). them. with I clasped hands forgiveness.

they came to the conclusion that the best thing to do would be to . but been watching them to their consternation late. of course. was Shortly after I this. that was still some distance as off I and had not seen them. nately for them. fined every present heavily. In order to give a semblance of truth to an otherwise bald tive. and they had also forgotten to make corresponding all holes in their clothing. had been silence a moment before. but had scarcely arrived there when two of the scoundrels tottered up after me. however. bent almost double and calling Heaven to witness that I had shot them both in the back. besides summarily degrading the Headman. They I thought.v TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN chisels all 55 and where resounded merrily and energetically. I shouted to them that they were too for I had some time. and unconvincing narrathey had actually induced one of their fellow to workmen make a few holes like shot holes in their backs. who had thus shown himself utterly unfit for his position. so that they achieved by this elaborate tissue of falsehood to bring on themselves the derision of their comrades and the imposition of an extra fine. when the masons realised that fair intended to make each man do a day's work for his this money. I man then proceeded to my hut. I Unfortu- had been carrying a rifle and not a shot gun. and would allow nothing to prevent intention from being carried out. and these were bleeding profusely.

and was rather inclined to think that the informant had been sent merely to frighten me. crept cautiously out of the bushes and warned my me asking him the reason. and affixed his finger-mark to a long strip of cheerful proposal every man paper as a binding token. however. I was aroused by one of the conspirators. but that he and not to proceed. and then they were to say To this that I had been killed and eaten by a lion. Accordingly the next morning (September 6) started off as usual along the trolley line in I to the line. but determined to go to the quarry in the the same. lonely quarry. present at the meeting agreed.56 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO me quietly out of the way. to On my twenty other masons were not going work that . a very good man. who had crept into my camp to give me warning. I thanked him for his information. Heera Singh. Within an hour after the meeting had dispersed. all CHAP. as at this stage of affairs morning really all I did not believe that they carrying out such a diabolical were capable of scheme. As I reached a bend the head mason. made my to be usual visit to My body was it thrown into the jungle. where of course would soon be devoured by wild beasts. he said that he dared not tell. being sworn to secrecy. that I and to after a long palaver it was arranged I was be murdered next day when the quarry. put Accordingly they held a meeting one night.

had refused to do what he as I told suppose he thought that it was never to leave the place alive. whatever came of it. jemadar. All the everything seemed perfectly peaceful. he went so far as to I point out the two men who. but I laughingly assured him there would be no trouble and continued on my way. the villain. and As soon felt that there was something in the wind. When we got to the further gang. this in I At began to I think that there was some- had heard overnight. men were working away busily. I noted their names my my usual manner. On my arrival at the thing the story quarry. thought I would see the adventure through. and Immediately a yell of rage was raised by the whole body of some sixty men. as I came up the to the first gang of workmen. . and asked me if I would further felt go and see them. as they were afraid of trouble at the quarry. . device to lure at once that this was a me into the where. with gangs in narrow part of the ravine. a treacherous-looking that informed me men working I refused to obey his up the ravine had orders. front of me and behind me. answered by a similar shout from those I had turned to retrace my steps. did not matter whom in he complained pocket-book in of. so there would be no escape still I accompanied the jemadar up the gully. but after a moment or two I noticed stealthy side glances.v TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN 57 clay. he them I said.

and threw him closely from in. hurled if the in man next him at me and he had succeeded knocking me down. both wrists I easily wrenched . The that habit of obedience held them. I told them about their plot to murder me. first who numbered about a hundred. carrying crowbars and flourishing their heavy hammers. and the man intended to knock me down was himself thrown violently against a rock. but that was his exact expression. and one man rushed '' me. my arms I free. I stepped quickly aside. never have got up again alive. waiting them to act. This occasioned a moment's confusion. and before they had time to recover themI selves I had started haranguing them still I in Hindustani.58 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO passed. I am certain that I should As it was. and but that they could certainly do so if they wished that if they did. over which he fell heavily. and fortun- ately they listened to I what had to say. to deal a blow. many of them would assuredly be knew all . brute. . Both groups of men. for I stood at still. however. of which I quickly took advantage. seizing and shouting out that he was going my to "be hung and shot for me rather a curious way of putting it. me but by this time was hemmed and everywhere I looked I could see nothing One burly but evil and murderous-looking faces. afraid to be the first . sprang on to the top of the rock. then closed in on me in the narrow part of the ravine. and CHAP.

self-respecting Pathans going to allow themselves to be led away by men of that kind? Once having got them to listen to me. and instantly crowd was raised. I felt a little more secure. called return to work to upon those who were willing to hold up their hands. Even supposing they were to carry out their plan of killing " " Sahib at once be set over me. 59 hanged as the Sirkar (Government) would soon find out the truth and would disbelieve their story that that I I had been carried quite well that it off knew by a lion. measuring a stone here and there and commenting . and after dismissing them.v TROUBLES WITH THE WORKMEN for it. jumped down from the rock and if continued my rounds as nothing had happened. I said was only one or two to to allow scoundrels among them who had induced them stupidly. and real worker . were upright. behave so and urged them not fools of in this themselves to be made way. I every hand that for the in the then felt moment I the victory was mine. and might he not be an even harder task- master the ? They all knew it that I was just and fair to was only the scoundrels and shirkers who had anything to fear from me. and I accordingly went on to say that the discontented among them would be allowed to return at once to Mombasa. of their take I no notice foolish conduct. while I if the others I resumed work and would Finally heard of no further plotting. would not another them.

who also told me that he was afraid to held. roll. Two or three days after- wards the Railway Police arrived and arrested the ringleaders in the mutiny. prompt action alone saved me from being attacked that very night. certain in a very un- mood. sentenced to various terms of imprisonment in the chain-gangs. however. so it was with feelings of great relief that an hour later I made my way back. another meeting being and a fresh plot made to murder me during Of this I was soon informed by my the night. who immediately marched his road to my assistance. . tried before full Mr. Mr. the British when the details of the plots to murder me were unfolded by one of them who turned Queen's All the scoundrels were found guilty and evidence. that his men I twenty-five miles by have no doubt. go out and call the At kill him also. as they had threatened to further outrage I this lost no time in telegraphing for the Railway Police. time-keeper. and not at all to be relied upon. and I was never again troubled with mutinous workmen. to Tsavo. unfortunately. Crawford. and also to the District Officer. v on the work done. for The danger was scarcely had I turned my back to go home when the mutiny broke out again. not yet past. indeed. safe and sullen and sound. Whitehead.60 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO They were still CH. who were taken to Mombasa and Consul.

CHAPTER VI THE REIGN OF TERROR THE lions seemed to have got a bad Brock and wagon. pieces of telegraph wire. It and a length of was divided into two compart- . it not. I fright the night in the sat up in wait for them goods- for they kept molest us in away from Tsavo and did not any way for some considerable time long after Brock had left me and gone on safari (a caravan journey) to Uganda. a trap would perhaps offer the best chance of getting at them. in fact. strong trap out of wooden tram-rails. In this breathing space which they vouchsafed us. heavy chain. and that if I could construct one in which a couple of coolies might be used as bait without being subjected to any danger. the lions would be quite daring enough to enter it in search of them to to and thus be caught. I accordingly set once. and in a short time managed sufficiently work at make a sleepers. until occurred to me that should they renew their attacks.

A sliding door at one end admitted the former. at the opposite end of the structure. was not necessary for the lion to seize the bait in order to send the door clattering down.62 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO one for the CHAP. This part of the contrivance was arranged in the . The door which was to admit the lion was. but otherwise the whole thing was very much on except that the it principle of the ordinary rat-trap. and once inside safe. if he entered this rails the other. of course. compartment they were perfectly as between them and the lion." heavy wooden sleepers. ran a cross wall of iron only three in inches apart. ments men and one for the lion. and embedded both top and bottom "THE DOOR WHICH WAS TO ADMIT THE LION.

any way. he would be bound to his weight on this would on the spring release the wire.THE REIGN OF manner. strongly secured by stout wire. as In it fell and he could not push it out into a groove between two in the rails firmly embedded this trap. . so as to enable It be fastened by the wire to the chain. and in an instant down would come the door behind him in . ground. tread one in the As soon as the lion entered sufficiently far into the trap.vi . the ends hanging down and opening . which to in was kept in its place by a wire fastened end and passing down to a spring concealed ground inside the cage. occurred to me. TERROR 63 following A heavy chain was lion's secured along the top part of the doorway. and on making the experiment I was glad to find that a hole was made as cleanly as if it had been punched my '303 out. . we were them from to rather at a loss for want of tools to bore holes in the rails for the doorway. and which abutted against the top of the doorway when turn lifted up. lot making which cost us a of work. short lengths of rails placed about six inches apart. The door was of a piece of held in this position by a lever made rail. to the to ground on either side of the these were fastened. that a hard-nosed bullet would penetrate the iron. This made a sort of flexible door which could be packed into a small space when not in use. however.

proved false.THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO When the trap CHAP. pulling a bush after them . but nothing happened except that had . and another entrance "WHEN THE TRAP WAS READY." just in front of the door of the cage for the lions. was ready I pitched a tent over it in order further to deceive the lions. i PITCHED A TEXT OVER IT. which they were to close on going in by. One small for made back of the enclosure the men. their predictions . and built an exceedingly entrance was strong boma at the round it. as will be seen later. For the first few nights I baited the I trap myself. was left I open The wiseacres to whom showed my invention were generally of the opinion that the man-eaters would be too cunning to walk into my parlour but.

time. about ten miles away. when suddenly in the middle of the night one of the brutes F . while another was taken from a place called EngoWithin a very short mani. routine. it was some months before the lions attacked us again. believing that their dreaded foes had permanently deserted the district. one of whom was killed and eaten. As I have said. terror-sticken cries and screams awoke the camps. On this occasion a number of men had been sleeping At last outside their tents for the sake of coolness. two more men being seized. Not long after our night in the goods- wagon. though from time to we heard of their depredations in other quarters. we at Tsavo enjoyed complete immunity from attack. and we knew that the " demons" had returned and had commenced a new list of victims. thinking. that the lions had gone for good. As time a matter of fact.vi THE REIGN OF TERROR 65 a very sleepless and uncomfortable time. and life in the camps returned to its normal we were suddenly startled out of this One dark night the familiar feeling of security. two men were carried off from railhead. and the other so badly mauled that he died within a few days. and was badly bitten by mosquitoes. resumed all their usual habits and occupations. of course. this latter place was again visited by the brutes. and the coolies. however.

as I had works in There the progress all up and down the line. of this I took up tree. and dragged him off He was joined through the thick thorn fence. except that had from a hysena. for the midst of the terrified group. and sticks. they took no notice of these and did not attempt to move I until their horrible meal that was finished. but devoured him within thirty yards of the tent where he had been seized. seized an unfortunate wretch amid the cries and burst companions. The alarm was at once given. lion hurled in the avail. however. The few scattered fragments to remained of the body would not allow be buried at once. outside by the second lion.66 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. and the next morning I learned that the lions had attacked another camp about two miles from Tsavo for by this time the camps were again scattered. stones and firebrands were intruder. . direction of the All into was of no the however. was discovered forcing its way through the boma. my station at nightfall in a con- venient Nothing occurred to break I the monotony of a visit my watch. Although several shots were fired in their direction coolie by the jemadar of the gang to which the belonged. and so daring had the shrieks of his two brutes become that they did not trouble to carry their victim any further away. hoping that the lions would return and on the chance to the spot the following night .

successful in obtaining a whom. and to to hear the deep roars of these dreadful monsters nearer and know growing gradually that some one or other of us was doomed be their victim before the vicinity of morning dawned.vi THE REIGN OF TERROR had been as in 67 man-eaters victim. the devil coming"). is shaitan ata (" Beware. and still is. Shouts would then pass from camp " camp. Khabar dar. watching was most dreary and fatiguing work. the to previous the instance. a mystery to me I should have thought that it was next to impossible for devoured quite close . the Once they reached roars camps. and without a sound being heard. for they took man after from different places without ever once giving This constant night chance of a shot at them. that the completely ceased. sat up every night for over a week near likely camps. but all in vain. F 2 brothers. Either the lions saw me and then went elsewhere. and stalking for we knew " they were their to prey. but I felt man me a that it was a duty that had to be undertaken. an animal to get tinually did so. they How they camp. I After this occurrence. forced their way through the bomas without making a noise was. but the warning . Yet they conthrough at all. as for protection. the men naturally looked to me In the whole of my life I have never experienced anyto thing more nerve-shaking than nearer. or else I was unlucky. bhaieon.

success. as everything would have I been in their favour. track.68 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. it seemed and the lions were really life. devils after all bore a charmed As I have said before. while succeeding at the same time in obtaining a victim. it was much more likely that they would have added me to their list matter of fact. I in was naturally very disheartened at being foiled this way night after night. About this time. if I of victims than that killing I should have succeeded in either of them. and several to officers naval and military came Tsavo from the coast and sat up night after night in order to get a shot at our daring All of us. had many helpers. I have a very vivid recollection of one particular . civil. ing them through the jungle was a hopeless task but as something had to be done to keep up the men's spirits. however. too. met with the same lack of foes. As a had come up with the lions on any of these expeditions. and sooner or agonising shrieks would break the silence cries later and next another man would be missing from roll-call morning. I spent many a weary day crawling on my hands and knees through the dense undergrowth of the exasperating wilderness around us. and was soon at wits' if my as end to know what " to do " . and the lions always seemed capable of avoiding the watchers. would prove of no avail.

only one of the man-eaters had made the attack and had done the . could plainly hear them crunching the filled bones. man had been lying ill in their and on making enquiry I found that they had I immediately took callously left him behind alone. and the sound of their dreadful purring the air and rang in my ears for days afterwards. time matters gradually became worse Hitherto. rememcamp. but soon afterwards bered that one my I boma. . who mine. had died of shock at being deserted by his this companions.vi THE REIGN OF TERROR when the brutes seized a 69 night man from to the railway to station and brought him I close my camp devour. while the other waited outside in the bush but they began to change the bomas together and each seizing a victim. some men with me entering his tent that I to bring him to my boma. Some half a dozen enclosure close to workmen. now their tactics. From and worse. but on He saw by the light of the lantern the poor fellow was beyond need of safety. The terrible thing was to feel so helpless it was useless to attempt to fellow go out. foraging. as of course the poor was dead. as a rule. became so lived in a small terrified on hear- ing the lions at their meal that they shouted and implored me to allow them to come inside This I willingly did. entering In . and in addition it was so pitch it dark as to make impossible to see anything.

this last way two Swahili porters were killed during the week of November. one being immediately and devoured. Within a few days of this the two brutes made a most ferocious attack on the largest camp in the . He was still alive when I saw him next morning. and when his terrified com- panions at last summoned up sufficient courage to go fast in the to his assistance.7o THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. but so terribly mauled that he died before he could be got to the hospital. they found him stuck "THEY FOUND HIM STUCK FAST IN THE BUSHES OF THE Boma" bushes of the boma. carried off The other was heard moaning for a long time. through which for once the lion had apparently 'been unable to drag him.

we After examining the spot at once set out to follow the Mr. workmen. in the gloom what of the we at first took to be a it lion closer inspection. Mr. but they were not to be frightened and calmly lay there until began their feast close beside the The their in meal was finished. Dalgairns feeling confident that he had wounded one of them.vi THE REIGN OF TERROR which for safety's 71 section. in the direction in which he heard the lions. to be the the remains unfortunate which man-eaters had legs. . fired over fifty shots Inspector. it evidently abandoned at our approach. ominous growlings. and was the stiff fingers of the other arm trailing along . Suddenly the dead of night the two man-eaters burst in the terrified among boma. sand like that of the toes of a broken limb. The one arm and half the body had been eaten. Dalgairns. stricken cries of " could plainly hear the paniccoolies. and even from 1 my some distance away. as there was a trail on the brutes. After some careful stalking. we suddenly found ourselves in the vicinity of the lions. the morning. showed coolie. shrieking of the Then followed They've taken him horrible they've taken him. and were greeted with Cautiously advancing and pushing the bushes aside. we saw cub . however." as the brutes carried off their unfortunate victim and camp. sake was situated within a close to stone's throw of Tsavo Station and a in Permanent Way Inspector's iron hut.

not to supply food for No sooner had they either lions or "devils." delivered this ultimatum than a regular stampede took place. therefore. to find on my return to that to to same afternoon (December i) the men had all struck work and were waiting camp that speak to me. swarming on of trucks Some hundreds to the and throwing fled in their possessions anyhow. they After this from the accursed spot. not stand constant district terrors of this sort indefinitely. When I sent for them. we had taken By this to be the trail of a wounded to time the it beasts had retired far into the thick jungle where was impossible follow them. will much less the ordinary Indian coolie. in a body and stated that they would not remain at Tsavo any longer for anything or any- body they had come from India on an agreement to work for the Government. first rails them stopped the passing train by throwing themselves on the in front of the engine. Now the bravest men in the world. the railway for stopped . and works were completely the next three weeks practically nothing was done but build "lion-proof" huts for .72 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO left CHAP. the sand which had the marks lion. so we had the remains of the coolie buried and once more returned home disappointed. and I was not at all surprised. they flocked my boma . and then. The whole was by this time thoroughly panic-stricken.

Every good-sized tree in . "PERCHED ON THE TOP OF WATER-TANKS. was a strange and amusing sight these shelters perched on the top of water-tanks. covering the top over with heavy logs of wood." and girders anywhere for safety while some even went so far as to dig pits inside their tents. into roofs which they descended at night.VI THE REIGN OF TERROR workmen who had had It 73 those sufficient courage to to see remain.

when the camp was attacked. hurling remember one night its terror-stricken load of shrieking coolies close to the very lions they were trying to avoid. vi the as many beds bear lashed on to it as its I branches would and sometimes more. a victim had already been secured. to pay . so many men swarmed on to one particular tree that down it came with a crash.74 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO camp had that CH. Fortu- nately for them. and the brutes were too busy devouring him attention to anything else.

rushed back trembling with terror. asking him to come up and assist paign against the lions. He replied accepting the invitation. train was due I at Tsavo about six o'clock in the evening. and informed me that there was no sign of the train or of the railway staff. the "boy" camp. so sent my "boy" up to the station to meet him and to help in carrying his baggage to the In a very short time. but that an enormous lion was standing on the This extraordinary story I did station platform.CHAPTER VII THE DISTRICT OFFICER'S NARROW ESCAPE SOME I little time before the flight of the workmen. the District Officer. and told me to expect him about dinner-time on December 2. which His turned out to be the day after the exodus. however. not believe in the least. Whitehead. as by this time the coolies never remarkable for bravery were in such a . me in my cam- and to bring with him any of his askaris (native soldiers) that he could spare. to had written Mr.

they were state of fright that sure to imagine it was a lion . but I found out next day that it was an actual fact. were constantly being fired off in the neighbourhood of the camp. concluded that he must have postponed his journey until the next day. they caught sight of a hyaena. rifles During the meal I heard a but paid no attention to them. or a baboon. they had found to eat. as I was surprised to and purring and had heard no commotion bitter in the camps. I waited some little time for Mr. and my had position in a crib built made of sleepers which which I I on a big girder close to a camp Soon thought was likely to be attacked. and that both stationmaster and signalman had been obliged to take refuge from one of the man-eaters by locking themselves in the station building. Later in the evening. but I eventually. or even a dog. as he did not put in an appearance. Whitehead. I went out as usual took up to watch for our elusive foes. and so had my dinner in my customary solitary couple of shots. The only conclusion I could come to was that they had pounced upon some poor un- . as state. after settling down at my post. in the bush.76 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO if CHAP. I hear the man-eaters growling crunching up bones about seventy yards from the I could not understand what crib. and experience that every meal the brutes obtained from us was announced by shrieks I knew by and uproar.

devouring and to retire quietly over a slight "I TOOK UP MY POSITION IN A CRIB MADE OF SLEEPERS. Mr. to I After a time was able make out their eyes glowing in the darkness. . There they As soon them. as it was daylight. whom should meet but my missing guest. looking very pale and ill.vii DISTRICT OFFICER'S NARROW ESCAPE I 77 suspecting native traveller. finished their meal at their ease. and in the took as careful aim as was possible . I got out of I my crib and went towards the place where had I last heard On the way." which prevented me from seeing them. Whitehead. circum- stances and fired the but the only notice they paid to carry off shot was to whatever they were rise. and generally dishevelled.

you must have dreamed cried astonishment.78 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO "Where on earth CHAP. For answer he turned round and showed me back. That what's up ? asked. " " Why didn't you turn up to dinner last night " ? A nice reception you give a fellow when you invite him to dinner. It had made him considerably got from him the whole story of the events of the night. my camp lay through a was accompanied by Abdullah." said Whitehead. have you come from?" I exclaimed. " his That's not much of a dream. his sergeant of askaris. so that it was quite dark when he arrived at Tsavo Station. I " in Nonsense. " is it ? he asked. I and bathed and dressed wounds and when more comfortable. appeared that his train was very late. showing red and angry through the torn cloth." was " I his only reply. from which the track to small cutting. I hurried his him . nearly did for " it ! infernal lion of yours me last night. and on the flesh there were four great claw marks. Without further parley. All went well until they were He about half-way through the gloomy . off to my I tent. " " Why. who walked close behind him carrying a lighted lamp. His clothing was rent by one huge tear from the nape of the neck downwards.

Whitehead but without effect. . he had his carbine with him. lion a second or two. was: "Eh. off. the Fortunately.vii DISTRICT OFFICER'S when one of the like I NARROW ESCAPE lions 79 cutting. suddenly jumped down upon them from Whitehead over in high bank. however. simba" ("Oh. knocking a ninepin. "). but the next instant the brute for like lightning pounced with on the unfortunate Abdullah. enabling Whitehead to disengage himself. a lion the bank. and instantly fired. Bwana. The flash and the loud report must have dazed the the manner had WHITEHEAD ON A TROLLEY AT THE EXACT SPOT WHERE THE LION JUMPED UPON HIM. and tearing his back seen. whom he at once made All that the poor fellow could say Master. As the lion was dragging him over fired again.

3. the night. of course. It into the darkness this was. December the forces arrayed . On the same day. Whitehead himself had a marvellous escape his wounds were happily not very deep. lions unfortunate man whom I had heard the devouring during ABDULLAH AND HIS TWO WIVES.8o THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. and the brute quickly disappeared with his prey. . and little caused him or no inconvenience afterwards.

my trap was put in thorough installed working order. Nothing happened until about nine o'clock. arrived from the coast with a score of sepoys to assist in hunting down the man-eaters. preparations were quite complete by nightall took up our appointed positions. they were so terrified when he rushed Q in . rifle. his men being posted on the most convenient trees near every camp." I thought." But the sequel was an ignominious one. lion inside the crib Further. Mr. in spite of some chaff. however.vii DISTRICT OFFICER'S NARROW ESCAPE 81 against the lions were further strengthened. They had also been given strict orders to shoot at once if a lion should enter the trap. Several other officials had also come up on leave to join in the chase. at least of the brutes is done for. when to great satisfaction and we my the intense stillness was suddenly broken by the noise of the door of the "At last. Mr. and each of these guarded a likely spot in the same way. and cautions were taken. and were each armed with a with plenty of ammunition. "one trap clattering down. Farquhar. whose fame had by this time the most elaborate pre- spread far and wide. The Martini bait-sepoys had a lamp burning inside their part of the cage. the Superintendent of Police. Instead of doing so. and two of the sepoys were Our fall. as bait. Whitehead sharing my post on the girder.

whose post was close by. indeed. minutes not. There was. and began madly against the bars of the cage. but it and always will be. brute. that they completely lost their heads and Not for some were actually too unnerved to fire. shouted at them and cheered them on did they at all recover themselves. but though we heard their growls from time to time. some blood scattered about the trap. indeed. thus allowing our How they failed to prize to make good his escape. we never succeeded in actually coming up with them. and when hunt was at once arranged. whose capture and death seemed so had only been slightly wounded. Then when at last they did begin to they fired with a vengeance anywhere. kill him several times over complete mystery to muzzles of their rifles absolutely touching his body. Accordingly we spent the greater part of the day on our hands and knees following the lions through the dense thickets of thorny jungle. until Mr. Altogether they fired over a score of shots. a me. Whitehead and I were at right angles to the direction in which they should have shot. a not morning unduly dejected. Farquhar. was small consolation to know that the certain. fire.82 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO to lash himself CHAP. and in the end succeeded only in blowing away one of the bars of the door. and yet their bullets came whizzing all round us. Of the . as they could have put the is. anyhow. Still we were came.

Two and days more were spent with equal in .vii DISTRICT OFFICER'S NARROW ESCAPE 83 whole party. district. A PARTY OF \VA JAMOUSI. and once again I was left alone with the man-eaters. the same then manner. G 2 . Whitehead also departed for his the coast. unsuccess and Farquhar and his sepoys were obliged to return to Mr. only Farquhar managed to catch a momentary glimpse of one as it bounded over a bush.

and were at that moment busy devouring it not far off. were I confining attention strictly to their meal. I saw a Swahili running excitedly ! " towards me. but being foiled in this had seized and killed one of the donkeys. when unfortunately my . led by the Swahili. Now was my I chance ! rushed for the heavy rifle which Farquhar had kindly left with me for use in case an opportunity such as this should arise.CHAPTER VIII THE DEATH OF THE FIRST MAN-EATER A as I DAY or two after the departure of my allies. and could just was getting on splendidly. their who. I started most carefully to stalk the lions. I devoutly hoped. and. and every now and again looking behind him as he ran. On questioning him I found that ! the lions had tried to snatch a man from the camp by the river. make out the outline of one of them through the dense bush. shouting out " Simba ! Simba / (" Lion Lion "). was leaving my boma soon after dawn on December 9.

CH. vin

DEATH OF THE

FIRST

MAN-EATER

85

The wily beast guide snapped a rotten branch. heard the noise, growled his defiance, and disappeared in a moment into a patch of even thicker
jungle close by.
his escaping

In desperation at the thought of

me

once again,

I

crept hurriedly back

camp, summoned the available workmen and told them to bring all the tom-toms, tin cans and
to the

other noisy instruments of any kind that could be
found.

As

quickly as possible

I

posted them in

a half-circle round the thicket, and gave the head jemadar instructions to start a simultaneous beating
of the tom-toms
I I

and cans as soon as he judged that had had time to get round to the other side.
found a

then crept round by myself and soon

good position and one which the lion was most likely to retreat past, as it was in the middle of a
broad animal path leading straight from the place I where he was concealed. lay down behind
a small ant
I

and waited expectantly. Very soon heard a tremendous din being raised by the
hill,

advancing
to

line of coolies,

and almost immediately,
It

my

intense joy, out into the open path stepped
lion.

a huge maneless o during had a
all

was the

first

occasion
I

these trying months upon which

had

fair

chance at one of these brutes, and
the

my

satisfaction at

prospect

of bagging

him was

unbounded. Slowly he advanced along the path, stopping I was only every few seconds to look round.

86

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
from view, and
if

CHAP.

partially concealed

his attention

had not been so
him,

fully

occupied by the noise behind

he must have observed me.
to

As he was
I

oblivious

my

presence,

however,

let

him
me,

approach to within about fifteen and then covered him with my rifle.
I

yards

of

The moment

moved to do this, he caught sight of me, and seemed much astonished at my sudden appearance,
for

he stuck his forefeet into the ground, threw himself back on his haunches and growled savagely.

As

I

covered his brain with
I

my

rifle,

i

felt

that

at last

had him absolutely at my mercy, but I .... never trust an untried weapon pulled and to my horror heard the dull snap the trigger,
!

that tells of a misfire.

Worse was

to follow.
this

I

was so

taken

aback
that

and disconcerted by
I

untoward accident
the
left

entirely

forgot
rifle

to

fire

barrel,

and
the

lowered the

from
if

my
I

shoulder

with

intention of reloading

should be given time.

Fortunately for me,

the

lion

was

so

distracted

by the terrific din and uproar of the coolies behind him that instead of springing on me, as might have been expected, he bounded aside into the jungle
again.
just as

By

this

time
I

I

had

collected

my

wits,

and

he jumped

let

him have the

left barrel.

An
;

answering angry growl told me that he had been hit but nevertheless he succeeded once more in getting
clear away, for although
I

tracked him for some

little

vm

DEATH OF THE
I

FIRST

MAN-EATER
in

87

distance,

eventually lost his

trail

a rocky patch

of ground.
Bitterly did
I

anathematise the hour

in

which

I

on a borrowed weapon, and in my disappointment and vexation I abused owner, maker, and
relied
rifle

had

with fine impartiality.
I

On

extracting the un-

exploded cartridge,
that the

found that the needle had not
;

struck home, the cap being only slightly dented

so

whole

fault did

indeed

lie

with the
polite

rifle,

which

I

later returned to

Farquhar with

comill-

pliments.

Seriously, however,
;

my

continued
result

luck was most exasperating
the Indians were

and the

was

that

more than ever confirmed
were

in their

belief that the lions

really evil spirits,

proof

against mortal weapons.
to bear

Certainly, they did

seem

charmed

lives.

After this dismal

failure

there was, of

course,

nothing to do but to return to camp.
so,

Before doing

however,
I

which

proceeded to view the dead donkey, found to have been only slightly devoured
I

at the quarters.

It is

a curious fact that lions always

begin at the

tail

of their

towards the head.

As

prey and eat upwards their meal had thus been
I

interrupted evidently at the very beginning,

felt

pretty sure that one or other of the brutes would

return to the carcase at nightfall.

Accordingly, as
at hand,
I

there

was no

tree of

any kind close
feet

had a

staging erected

some ten

away from the body.
feet

This mac han was about twelve

high and was

88

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
into the

CHAP.

composed of four poles stuck
inclined

towards each

other at

ground and the top, where a
Further, as

plank was lashed to serve as a
the nights were
still

seat.
I

pitch dark,

had the donkey's

carcase secured by strong wires to a neighbouring

stump, so that the lions might not be able to drag it away before I could get a shot at them.

At sundown,

therefore,

I

took up

my

position on

my

airy perch,

and much
I

to the disgust of

my

gun-

I decided to go alone. would gladly have taken him with me, indeed, but he had a bad cough, and I was afraid lest he should make

bearer,

Mahina,

any involuntary noise or movement which might Darkness fell almost immediately, and spoil all.
everything became extraordinarily still. The silence of an African jungle on a dark night needs to be

most impressive, especially when one is absolutely alone and isolated from one's fellow creatures, as I was then. The
experienced to be realised
;

it

is

solitude
all

and

stillness,

had

their effect

and the purpose of my vigil, on me, and from a condition of
I

strained expectancy

gradually

fell

into a

dreamy

mood which harmonised
Suddenly
I

well with

was

startled out of
:

snapping of a twig
further sound,
I

and,
I

my surroundings. my reverie by the straining my ears for a
the
bush.

fancied

could hear the rustling of

a large body forcing
"

its

way through

The

man-eater,"

to-night

my

thought to myself; "surely luck will change and I shall bag
I

vin

DEATH OF THE FIRST MAN-EATER
of

89

one

the
;

brutes."
I

Profound

succeeded

sat

on

my
to

eyrie like

again a statue, every

silence

nerve tense with excitement.
ever,
all

Very soon,
of

howlion

doubt as

the

presence

the

was

dispelled.

sign of hunger
rustling

deep long-drawn sigh sure came up from the bushes, and the

A

In

commenced again as he cautiously advanced. a moment or two a sudden stop, followed by an
told
I

angry growl, and noticed
;

me

that

my

presence had been

began

to fear that

disappointment

awaited

me
;

once more.
matters quickly took an unexpected turn.
the

But no

The

hunter became

hunted

;

and instead of
prepared

either

making

off or

coming

for the bait

for him, the lion

began

stealthily to stalk

me

!

For

about two hours he horrified

me by

slowly creeping

round and round

my

crazy structure,

gradually

Every moment edging his way nearer and nearer. I expected him to rush it and the staging had not been constructed with an eye to such a possibility.
;

one of the rather flimsy poles should break, or if the lion could spring the twelve feet which separated
If

me from
and

the ground
I

.

.

.

the thought was scarcely
to feel distinctly "creepy,"
folly in

a pleasant one.

began

heartily repented

my

having placed myI

self in

such a dangerous position.

kept perfectly
:

still, however, hardly daring even to blink my eyes but the long-continued strain was telling on my

nerves,

and

my feelings may

be better imagined than

9o

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO

CHAP.

described

when about midnight suddenly something
and struck
I

came
For
a

flop

me on

the back of the head.
I

moment
I

was so

terrified that

nearly

fell

off

the plank, as

me

thought that the lion had sprung on from behind. Regaining my senses in a second or
I

by nothing more an owl, which had doubtless misformidable than
two,
realised that
I

had been

hit

taken

me

for

the branch

of a tree

not a very

alarming thing to happen in ordinary circumstances, I admit, but coming at the time it did, it almost

The involuntary start which I could paralysed me. not help giving was immediately answered by a
sinister

growl from below.
I

again kept as still as I could, though and in a absolutely trembling with excitement
;

After this

short while

I

heard the lion begin to creep
I

stealthily

towards me.

could barely

make

out his form as
;

he crouched among the whitish undergrowth but I saw enough for my purpose, and before he could

come any
trigger.

nearer,

The

took careful aim and pulled the sound of the shot was at once followed
I

by a most

terrific

roar,

and then
I

I

could hear him

leaping about in

all

directions.

to see him, however, as his

was no longer able first bound had taken

him

into

the thick bush

;

but to

make assurance

doubly sure, I kept blazing away in the direction in which I heard him plunging about. At length came a series of mighty groans, gradually subsiding into

deep

sighs,

and

finally

ceasing altogether

;

and

I

felt

vni

DEATH OF THE

FIRST

MAN-EATER
who had

91

convinced that one of the "devils"

so

long harried us would trouble us no more.

As soon

as

I

ceased

firing,

a tumult of inquiring

voices was borne across the dark jungle from the

men

in

camp about a quarter
I

of a mile away.

I

shouted back that

was
:

safe

and sound, and that

one of the

lions

was dead
all

cheer went up from
astonished
around.
the

whereupon such a mighty the camps as must have
jungle for miles
lights twinkling

denizens of the
I

Shortly

saw scores of
:

through the bushes

and with

camp turned out, tom-toms beating and horns blowing came
every
in

man

running to the scene.

They surrounded my

eyrie,

and

to

my amazement

prostrated themselves on the

" ground before me, saluting me with cries of Mabarak ! Mabarak!" which I believe means "blessed

one

"

or

"

saviour."
to

All the same,

I

refused to allow
for the

any search
the
lion, in
it

be made that night

body of
;

case his companion might be close by

besides,

was possible

that he might be
last spring.

still

alive,

and capable of making a

Accordingly

returned in triumph to the camp, where great remainder of the rejoicings were kept up for the

we

all

night,

the

Swahili

and

other

African

natives

celebrating the occasion by an especially wild and

savage dance.

For

my

part,
it

I

anxiously awaited the
light
I

dawn

;

and

even before

was thoroughly
I

was on

my

way

to the eventful spot, as

could not completely

and I was relieved so to find that my luck after playing me many I exasperating tricks had really turned at for last. had scarcely traced the blood more than "HIS LENGTH FROM Til' OF NOSE TO TIP OF TAIL WAS NINE FEET EIGHT INCHES. on rounding a bush. On looking satisfied myself that he was whereupon my followers crowded round. persuade myself that even yet the "devil" might not have eluded me in some uncanny and mysterious way. huge lion right and crouching for however. I in front of me. to see a I was startled alive closer. shoulder-high round the dead body. and bore me in triumph really and truly stone-dead. These thanks- . laughed and danced and shouted with joy like children.92 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. seemingly a spring." a few paces when. Happily my fears proved groundless.

. he stood three feet nine inches high. HEAD OF THE FIRST MAN-EATER. prize The was indeed one tip to be proud of. and it The took eight men to carry him back to camp. only blemish was that the skin was much scored by the boma thorns through which he had so often forced his way in carrying off his victims. I examined the body and found that two bullets had taken effect one close behind the left shoulder.vin DEATH OF THE FIRST MAN-EATER 93 giving ceremonies being over. : of the death of one of the notorious soon spread far and wide over the telegrams of congratulation came pouring and scores of people flocked from up and down the railway to see the skin for themselves. his length tail from of nose to tip of was nine feet eight inches. The news man-eaters country in. and the other in the off hind leg. evidently penetrating the heart.

with a convenient loophole in it On for firing . did not or to open the door. Go away to shouted angrily fortunately for him. thinking " it The " ! Inspector. noise and was a drunken but. hearing of this occurrence. attempt to obtain a meal of the lion seized a couple of the Inhis spector's goats and devoured them there and then. climbing up the steps of his bungalow and prowling round the verandah. hearing the coolie. few nights elapsed before he made an attempt get at the Permanent to Way Inspector. Only a still at large. Fortunately there was a vacant iron shanty close at hand. attempt come out in Thus disappointed human flesh. companion was to and very soon began make us unpleasantly aware of the fact.CHAPTER IX THE DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER IT this must not be imagined that with the death of lion our troubles at Tsavo were at an end his . I determined to sit up the next night near the Inspector's bungalow.

pounced on one of the goats and made off with rail it. direction. at the all. off. I often longed for a flash- Next morning I started off in pursuit and was I found joined by some others from the camp. and we soon came up. goats as bait. when at last the lion turned up. ix DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER . with the exception of one of my assistants. tying them Ibs. every man of the scrambled hastily up the nearest tree. who brute. he suddenly made a finally. a half-length of night passed weighing about 250 The un- eventfully until just before daybreak. Winkler. pace. and it fired several shots but was pitch dark I and quite impossible to see anything. about a quarter of a mile away. as charge. Mr. to where the lion was at his still busy thick . 95 from and outside this I placed three to full-grown rail. and however. we guessed by the silence he had slunk We therefore advanced . meal. that the trail of the goats and rail was easilyfollowed. rushing through In the bushes at a great party an instant. stood steadily by me throughout. same time dragging I away in his the others. did not press his on throwing stones into the bushes where : The charge home we had that last seen him. on such occasions. He was concealed in some bush and growled angrily on hearing our approach we got closer.CH. so hitting light only succeeded in one of the goats.

Thinking that in all probability the lion would return as usual to finish his meal. I was just dozing off comfortably when suddenly I felt my arm seized. the I open and pass almost directly beneath both barrels practically together into his shoulder. strong scaffolding put up a few feet had a very away from the I dead goats. for In I few moments the was I rewarded. on he getting up to the place us. "S/ier/" ("Lion!") all was he whispered. and to my joy could see him go fired down under I the the force of the blow. discovered had indeed escaped leaving two of the goats scarcely touched. cautiously. I Nevertheless was confident of getting him in . there was a rustling among the bushes and I saw him stealthily emerge into us. as watched spot where expected the lion to appear. having spent so many nights on the look-out. in and on looking up saw Mahina pointing the direction of the goats. for magazine rifle. had to fire after him quite at random. Quickly before I reached it. my I position on it before On this occasion brought my gun-bearer. I Mahina. but could use and I he was out of sight among the bushes. I and waited patiently. this to take a turn at watching. and took up dark. which had charged with a slug. I I grasped my double smooth-bore. as was by time worn out for want of sleep.96 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO and that CHAP.

and accordingly set out as soon as was light..ix DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER 97 the it morning. late Consulting Engineer to the Govern- ment of India Railways. one to or two of which he has kindly allowed He we reproduce in this book. he took a Office. there was no sign of our enemy for about ten days after this. About this time Sir Guilford Molesworth. passed through Tsavo on a tour of inspection on behalf of the Foreign for State examining the bridge and other works and expressing his satisfaction. and we began to hope it As that he had died of still his wounds in the bush. hunt proved fruitless. When I he asked I me if I expected to get the second lion soon. and was me delighted that one at least was dead. happened. For over a mile there was no in difficulty following the I blood-trail. for my after a time the traces and the surface of the ground became rocky. his half-doubting smile as I well remember rather too confidently asserted that hoped to bag him also in the course of a few days. H .I. All the same we took every precaution at night. however. felt and as he had rested several times been badly wounded. of blood sure that he had In the end. K. After number of photographs. thoroughly sympathised with us in all the trials had endured from the man-eaters.E. so that I was no longer able to ceased follow the spoor.C.

but the man-eater had evidently prowled about for some time. For was clear and cloudless. as the moon was hidden by dense clouds and it was the effect that a lion absolutely impossible to see anything . and least list. as otherwise at to the one more victim would have been added For on the night of December 27.. was fortunate that we did so.m. who slept in a tree close outside my boma. to was trying to get at them.98 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO it CHAP. for we found in the morning that he had gone right into every one of their tents. As may be imagined. when I roused Mahina to take his turn. I came down again very quickly. . I The following evening same tree. more than a yard in front of one so all I could do was to fire off a This few rounds just to frighten the brute away. apparently had the desired effect. I was sud- denly aroused by terrified shouts from my trolley men. for the men were not further molested that night . as while climbing perch I very nearly put my hand on a venomous snake which was lying coiled round one up to my of the branches. and round the tree was a regular rin<r c? of his footmarks. It would have been madness to have gone out. The night began badly. in took up my position in this the hope that he would make another attempt. I kept watch until about 2 a. but one of my men managed to despatch it with a long pole. Fortunately the night and the moon made everything almost as bright as day.

I Only I half satisfied. ing that something was wrong.ix DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER I 99 about an hour tree. I too could discover nothing unusual. with only a small bush every here and there and from our position it was a most fascinating sight to watch this great brute stealing stealthily round us. open round our tree. The ground was H 2 . I was about to lie back again." something move a bushes. It was the man-eater. though I looked carefully round us on all sides. taking fairly . little way off among the low On I seconds. gazing intently at the spot for a few found I was not mistaken. however. when fancied saw ' I UK FOLLOWING EVENING I TOOK UP MY POSITION IN THIS SAME TREE. slept peacefully with my back to the and then woke suddenly with an uncanny feelMahina. was on the alert. cautiously stalking us. and had seen nothing and al.

His advantage of every bit of cover as he came. so that was free to keep a good look-out. and showing his tusks in an angry snarl. I heard it the bullet strike him. Splashes of blood being quickly . Instantly he sprang out and made a most determined charge clown on us. but unfortunately had no knock-down and made effect. I him this accordingly waited away he got quite close about twenty yards and then fired my '303 at his chest. but in a second .TOO THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. plentiful. however. skill showed that he was an old hand at the terrible game undue of man-hunting risk of losing until : so I determined to run no time. we were able to get along and we had not proceeded more than a quarter of a mile through the jungle when suddenly in front I a fierce warning growl us. and another growl told also taken effect. and at the glimmer of dawn we set out to hunt him clown. I I took a native tracker with me. I at once took careful aim and fired. while Mahina followed immediately behind with a Martini carbine. was heard right of Looking cautiously through the bushes. three managed have more shots at him from the magazine rifle. for with a fierce growl he turned off with great long bounds. could see the man-eater glaring out in our direction. I fired again and knocked him over . I- Before he to disappeared from sight. me that the last of these had We first awaited daylight with impatience.

effect. leg. late. he started I to limp back to the thicket but by this time had I seized the carbine from Mahina. biting savagely at a branch which had fallen to the ground. hoping to stop him with my hand for the To my dismay. A had no apparent so I put out it. he dropped away from me.ix DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER me 101 he was up once more and coming for lie as fast as third shot could in his crippled condition. however. attracted . I to at When the lion found he was too . and died gamely. fired fell and the first shot for from it seemed to give him his quietus. his had barely time reach before he arrived was. I at over and lay motionless. To my surprise and no little alarm he jumped up and attempted another charge. Martini. not five yards By this time all the workmen in camp. and this time well on their there way up a nothing to loss of time tree. the brute would most certainly Even as it swing myself up out of the foot of the tree. it was not there. was do but follow : which I did without and but for the fact that one of my shots had broken a hind have had me. den charge had proved too both he and the carbine were by The terror of the sudmuch for Mahina. once scrambled down from the tree and walked up to- wards him. however. he Rather foolishly. a This Martini bullet in the chest and another in the head finished in his tracks him for good and all . In the circumstances suit. time.

amid the wild could pieces. tip He measured nine tail. AND STOOD THREE FEET ELEVEN AND A HALF INCHES HIGH. and so great was their resentment against the brute who had it killed such numbers of their comrades that I was only with the greatest difficulty that restrain them from tearing the dead body to Eventually. by the sound of the firing. rejoicings of the natives "HE MEASURED NINE FEET SIX INCHES FROM TIP OF NOSE TO TIP OF TAIL." and coolies. I had the lion carried to my boma. On examination we found no in than six bullet holes little I the body. feet six- inches from of nose to tip of and stood .THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. had arrived on the scene. which was less close at hand. and embedded only a way in the flesh of the which had fired back was the slug into him from the scaffolding about ten days previously.

most highly prized and The inscription on it reads as my We. after I had killed the two Instead of wishing to murder me. the change which took place in the attitude of the workmen towards me lions. Best of all. The news of the death of the second " devil soon spread far and wide over the country. as they did. and natives up and down the line to have a " look at my trophies and at the devil-killer ". and as a token of their gratitude they presented me with a beautiful silver bowl. indeed. as well as with a long poem \\ ritten in Hindustani describing all our trials and my ultimate victory. : won trophy. in As the poem relates our troubles somewhat quaint and it biblical language. Mistaris and Workmen. The bowl shall always consider hardest follows SIR. present you with this bowl as a token of our gratitude to you for your bravery in killing . skin was disfigured by being deeply scored all over by the " boma thorns. but. as they called me. I have given a translation of I in the appendix. to notice by man-eaters. Timekeepers. your Overseer. the of his companion. once they could not now do enough for me.ix DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER feet 103 three as in eleven case and a half inches high the . the coolies who had absconded actually travelled from came flocking back to Tsavo. and much to my relief work was resumed and we were never again troubled It was amusing.

shall ever remain. In presenting you with this bowl. conditions. two man-eating thereby saving us from the fate by these terrible monsters who nightly broke into our tents and took our fellow-workers from our side." . Of course it is difficult to work a railway under these lions. your own life. " I leave the subject of the man-eaters of that these two Tsavo. of being devoured we all add our prayers for your long life. Speaking of the in which had been of encountered the construction the : Uganda Railway. Sir. and rid until we found an enthusiastic sportsman to get of these our enterprise was seriously hindered. of having been specifically referred to in the House of Lords by the Prime Minister of the difficulties day.104 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO lions at great risk to CHAP. BaboO PURSHOTAM HURJEE PURMAR. happiness and prosperity. Dated Before at Tsavo." it may be of interest to mention lions possess the distinction. 1899. At last labourers entirely declined to go on unless they were guarded by an iron entrenchment. January 30. probably unique among wild animals. the late " Lord Salisbury said of the works were put a stop to for three weeks because a party of man-eating lions The whole in appeared the taste locality and conceived a most the unfortunate for our porters. Overseer and Clerk of Works. on behalf of your Workmen. We Your grateful servants.

back. white or black. carcases of transport animals which had died from the bite poisoned of the tsetse fly were placed in likely spots.ix DEATH OF THE SECOND MAN-EATER Also. the story of these two beasts. wish to propitiate the local deities is easily understood. and impossible the survival of primitive foe ! how it becomes to account for as his For fire main safeguard against the carnivora these cared nothing. . early in against this kind of which has hitherto been regarded man the history of man. and if the Samaritans had quarter as " The good cause their for their fears as had the railway coolies. in savageness or in sheer insolent contempt for man. If the whole body of lion anecdote. 105 The Spectator of March entitled 3. for its powers are employed with strange skill by the men in the tropical forest. but without effect. for strychnine is easily 1 Poison may have been used used. both in American and West Central The that poison was tried. were collated and brought together. armed or unarmed. . 1 I may mention . but the wily man-eaters would not touch them. it would not equal in tragedy or atrocity. 1900. " To what a distance the whole story carries us . and with effect. It is curious that the Tsavo lions were not killed by poison. and much preferred live men to dead donkeys. had an the article "The Lions that Stopped Railway." taken : from which the following extracts are parallel to the story of the lions which the rebuilding of Samaria must occur to stopped everyone. from the days of the Assyrian Kings till the last year of the nineteenth century.

no evidence that the old inhabitants of Europe.io6 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO But there is CH. From When the jungle twinkled with hundreds of that the lamps. ix Africa. or some champion. and the Africans danced savage and ceremonial dances of thanksgiving. or of Assyria or Asia Minor. they had devoured between them no less than twenty-eight Indian coolies. services to man even at this distance of time. to kill these monsters for them. Mr. ever killed lions or wolves by this means. It was not the sport but the duty of Kings. as the hurrying crowds fell prostrate in the midnight forest. as the shout went on from camp to camp first lion was dead. They looked to the King or chief. Hercules. this the all lion killer . the story of the Tsavo River we can appreciate their. who cleared the roads of beasts St. . in addition to scores of unfortunate African natives of whom no official record was kept. and the rest of their owed to their everlasting fame." son must have realised in Well had the two man-eaters earned all this fame. George. and class robbers . laying their heads on his feet. and was in itself a title to be a ruler of men. and might pass at any moment under the savage dominion of the beasts. Theseus. the dragon-slayer. Patter- no common way what it was to have been a hero and deliverer in the days when man was not yet undisputed lord of the creation.

"THE BRIDCE OVER THE TSAVO RAPIDLY NEARED COMl'I. and the bridge over the Tsavo rapidly neared completion." CHAPTER X THE COMPLETION OF THE TSAVO \ViiF. As the piers and abutments progressed in height.ETION. These were at a distance of bolted together at the top. while the other ends were fixed about ten feet apart in a .x all IJKIlMIE the excitement had died down and there was no longer any dread of the man-eaters. the question of briskly. work went on how to lift the large stones into their positions had to be solved. so work and improvised a shears made of a couple of thirty-foot rails. I We set to possessed no cranes for this purpose.

next business The w as r to span the sixty-foot "THE HEAVY STONKS WERE SWUNG INTO POSITION. As I had neither winches nor to haul these over into sufficient blocks and tackle to position. distance between the piers with iron girders. built up crib-shape of wooden sleepers. Great wooden beams were stretched across from the stone piers to these cribs.io8 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO block of CHAP. so that in a very short time masonry of the bridge was completed. This contrivance acted and by manipulation of ropes and pulleys the heavy stones were swung into position quickly capitally. and without the difficulty. I was driven erect temporary piers in the middle of each span. and the . and laid with rails . large wood.

" AND FINALLY LOWERED GENTLY INTO POSITION." .x COMPLETION OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE 109 'THE GIRDER WAS RUN OVER ITS EXAC TJZPLACE.

" FIRST TRAIN- girder was thus successfully placed. no time was lost I in linking up the permanent way. trucks. and very soon had the satisfaction of seeing the first train cross the finished work. It had been brought up from was next were "jacked" up from the which hauled away empty. Curiously enough. "VERY SOON i HAD THE SATISFACTION OK SERINS THE CROSS THE FINISHED WORK. exact place. bridge had been only a day or so after the completed and the intermediate cribs cleared away. a tremendous rain-storm broke . the temporary bridge was dismantled. and the girder When the last finally lowered gently into position. while still on the trucks in which the coast.no girder THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO was run over its it CHAP.

I watched expectantly for the two temporary TIffi COMPLETED TSAVO BRIDGE. it will in be remembered. soon flooding its banks and becoming a raging murky torrent. tearing up trees by the roots and straws. for long to soon caught sight of a solid mass of Nor had palm stems and railway sleepers sweeping with almost irresistible force round the bend of the river . and standing on my bridge. The river started to rise rapidly. whirling them along like Steadily higher and higher rose the flood.x COMPLETION OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE in over the country. I w ait r . we order to bring stone had built across the stream and sand to the main work to give way before the I ever-rising volume of water. trolley bridges which.

was so were twisted round the broken they had been so tier The double and hurled of much ordinary wreckage now swept a sullen forward. indeed. furthest On it came. some distance above the bridge. and with I an additional bank of stormy-looking water. a rerrding and riving of timbers. The impact. for the space of a held my breath moment . itself with plunge . rails if it. as it actually leaped at the second frail structure there was a dull thud and ONE OF THE TROLLEY LINES AFTER THE FLOOD. leaving not a vestige of the two bridges behind great that the o tree-trunks as wire. trolley crossing it This I knew up was the debris of the the river. and then the flood rolled on towards me.112 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO little CHAP.

no one dared stir out to investigate the I . Leopards especially are most destructive. never long without excitement of some When the camp was kind or another at Tsavo. and other inhabitants of the jungle around us. and which were secured at sundown in a grass hut at one corner of my boma. and saw the remnant of the temporary crossings swirl through the great spans and quickly disappear on its journey to the ocean. but as this was before the man-eaters startled were killed. I confess that thrill I witnessed the whole occurrence with a of pride. it was by leopards. hap : and not for food : and I pened at the time to have a flock of about thirty sheep and goats which I kept for food and for milk. often killing simply for pleasure have always harboured animosity towards them since the night when one I wantonly destroyed a whole herd of mine. wild cats. but it to my immense satisfaction bridge took without a tremor. wild dogs. 113 against the cutwaters of The shock the I was great. not We were being attacked by man-eating lions. and there was always great rejoicing when a capture was made in one of the many traps that were laid for them. hyaenas. One particularly dark night we were in this by a tremendous commotion shed. visited These animals did a great deal of damage to the herds of sheep and goats which were kept to supply the commissariat.x COMPLETION OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE my stone piers.

but had killed them out of pure love of destruction. to see died down and everything became still soon as it was dawn I went to the shed As what had happened. hoped that he would return the next night make a mea* and should he do so. Nor were . I accordingly left the carcases exactly as they lay. cause of the disturbance. steel trap like and having a very powerful an enormous rat-trap. Darkness found everyone the in my botna on alert and listening anxiously to hear the noise the leopard would make moment he was caught in the trap. I found every one of my sheep and goats lying stretched dead on the ground with its throat bitten through. and quite if strong enough to hold a leopard his foot in it I he should put to a long stake placed this it in the opening into the shed and secured by a stout chain the driven into the ground outside. to my intense anger.u4 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO I CHAP. A hole had been made through this the frail wall of the shed. the intruder naturally thought that all I was one of the "demons. I determined I . He had not eaten all one of the flock. to to have my revenge. it him away." but fire could do was to several shots in the direction of the hut. hoping to frighten these. In spite of was some time before the noise again. and there. and I saw from and from the tracks all found that the author of the wholesale slaughter had been a leopard. however.

who shouted that he too wanted revenge. bringing others the lanterns in the With the came my Indian overseer. at once everyone all the boma turned place. fired four ally not Natur- one of these touched the beast. for about midnight 115 we by all we heard the click of the powerful spring. the leopard made a spring in our direction as far as the chain would allow him. and shutting his eyes shots in rapid succession. tightly.x COMPLETION OF THE TSAVO BRIDGE disappointed. followed by the chankidar (watchman) carrying the lamp. who scattered rapidly to right and I left 2 . but they caused considerable consternation amongst the onlookers. I called out that in he was dead. so immediately rushed out. As far as I could make out. as his struggles ceased and and was still. he kept dodging in and out through . but I knew the general direction in which to fire and accordingly emptied my magazine at the beast. as some of the goats had belonged to him. leaving me in utter darkness. and this so frightened the chaukidar that he fled in terror. As we frantic approached the shed. Whereupon he levelled his revolver at the dead leopard. I could see absolutely nothing . had been sitting evening with I my rifle by my side and a lantern lighted. followed immediately I frantic roaring and plunging. the broken wall of the goat-house but in a short time my all shots evidently told. The and night was as black as had been the previous one. out.

and often caused great losses among our sheep and goats. x Next morning a party of starving Wa Kamba happened to be passing just as I was about to skin the leopard. specimen and never had another chance of obtain- was very sorry that I as I badly wanted a . bigger than a collie. chase. thirty yards of me. when really driven by hunger. Wild dogs are also very destructive. Many a night have I listened to these animals hunting and harrying some poor creature of the wilds round my camp they never relinquish a . with jet-black hair and a tail. I man at or beast. off. was Tsavo Station rifle one day of these unfortunately without my when one dogs came up and stood within about He was a fine-looking beast. and will attack anything. I white-tipped bushy had not brought my rifle. and in a very few minutes the skin had been neatly taken and the famishing natives began a ravenous meal on the raw flesh.n6 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CH. I and asked by means of signs to be do the job for me and then to take the of course assented to this proposal. allowed to meat.

however. Still I had little district around us was practic- was of course a good number of Swahili among my workmen. together with a few Wa Kamba.CHAPTER XI THE SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES I HAVE always been very keenly native races of Africa. interested in the different and consequently scope for this at availed myself of every opportunity of studying their manners and customs. said. being fathers the descendants of Their name coast . as the ally uninhabited. Tsavo. The principally along the coast of British East Africa and at Zanzibar. to be really a corruption of the words but it has also been sawa kill." How- . Wa N'yam Wezi. by some who have found them scarcely so guileless as might have been expected. They Arab are a mixed race. those who cheat all alike. and others. there so I soon became more or habits of less acquainted with Swahili live the these tribes. is and negro mothers. derived from the Arabic word sudhil. that " is.

carrying heavy loads of provisions and trade-goods on the one journey. improvident people. the CHAP.u8 ever that THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO may be. and are very fond of good things of this world. enjoying them thoroughly whenever they get the all the - SWAHILI CARAVAN PORTERS. that of caravan porters. light-hearted. They are away for many months at a time on these they expeditions. They are a careless. men are as a rule of splendid physique and well qualified for the calling that the majority of them follow. and returning with similar loads of ivory or other products of the country. chance. Their life is spent in journeying to and from the interior. cannot spend and consequently as money on the march they .

or even beyond. Nothing ever seems Swahili porter. his load . Many a time have I watched them 'THE OLD CARAVAN ROAD WHICH CROSSED THE TSAVO AT A FORD/' road which crossed trudging along the old caravan the Tsavo at a ford about half a mile from the here a halt was always called. so that thev migfht wash and bathe in the cool waters c> s railway station : of the river. they join another caravan and begin a new safari to the Great Lakes. to damp the spirits of the Be his life ever so hard. and when no more return Mombasa. fun can be bought.xi SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES a 119 have their goodly to number of rupees to draw on These generally disappear with wonderful rapidity.

he straightway forhis troubles. ever so heavy. Mabruki. the off his back and he has disposed of gets all posko (food). MABRUKI. if he were the happiest Such was my cook. I remember that one day he was opening a tin of . and begins to laugh and sing \\\s "SUCH WAS MY COOK.120 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO moment it is CHAP. and his merry laugh was quite infectious." and joke with his fellows as and luckiest mortal alive.

.xi SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES 121 THE WOMEN . BRIGHTLY-COLOURED CLOTH. . WEAR A LONG. .

the people who inhabit the thorny nyika (wilder- ness) which borders on the Taru Desert. They have a happy knack of giving a nickname to every European with whom race. and wear a long brightly-coloured cloth which they wind tightly round their bosoms and graceful then allow to the fall to the feet. to the women entirely who are too liberally endowed be go about with bare arms and shoulders. or appearance. generous liking. All are followers of Prophet. biscuits for me. perhaps the most extraordinary-looking are the Wa Nyika. thinking that assured me that he would not spoil the tin ! The Swahili like men wear a night-shirt. On the whole. kanzu. folk. whom one cannot to be seen they help Of the many tribes which are about the railway on the way up from the coast. to pull off the flap in his under-licl with his fingers. I magnificent teeth and tugged at shouted to . They . a long called a white cotton garment. Mohammedan they have to do. are a kindly.122 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO and not being able CHAP. temper. him he might break a tooth but he misunderstood my solicitude and gravely to stop. such nickname generally making reference to something peculiar or striking in his habits. he seized the it. and the their social customs those are con- sequently much same as of any other though with a good admixture of savagedom.

away." Both men and women adorn themselves with brass chains round the neck and coils of copper and iron wire round the arms. The men wear nothing the in the way of dress but a scanty and very dirty cloth thrown over the shoulders. some thirty miles this place.xi SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES 123 are exceedingly ugly and of a low type. attire "THE WOMEN ATTIRE THEMSELVES ONLY IN A SHORT KILT. who dwell in the mountains near N'dii. My work often took me and on one of my visits. finding . The nearest native inhabitants to Tsavo are the Wa to Taita. while women is which themselves only in a short kilt tied round them very lowlat the waist.

who had about just come in for a shauri (consultation) some affair of State. me to some way up the the hills. about four miles away. The old fellow appeared delighted to meet me. us.124 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. so we started on our heavy climb. the Head Chief of the Wa Taita. I set out to pay a long" promised visit to the District Officer. A fairly good road ran from N'dii Station to his house at the foot of the mountains. coming with After a . Bhawal. my Indian servant. myself with some spare time on my hands. I jumped at the prospect of seeing presently off Wa Taita at home. and promptly invited his kraal. and on my arrival I was not only most to hospitably entertained but was also introduced M'gogo.

where I was at once introduced to his wives." tree. however. scramble up a steep and we arrived at M'gogo's capital. he became the centre of attraction. but carefully doubtless as the put for it into a bag with her other treasures future investigation. I for on tasting it.LOWED-OUT STUMP OF A TREE.xi SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES 125 couple of hours' steady slippery goat-path. her child. but she did not understand what it was.MAKING poillbe IN THE HO1. presented one of them with an orange for. and I was eclipsed. He happened . who were busily engaged in making pombe (a native fermented drink) in the hollowed-out stump of a " . it she made a wry it face and would not eat Still she did not throw away. As soon women to saw Bhawal.

with lots of gold work on it. where I found I was well rewarded for my trouble all by the sides.126 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. magnificent views we obtained on The the great Kilima N'jaro effec- stood out particularly well. it After a stiff climb for another two hours. we emerged on the summit." It is. examined every ecstasies line it most as carefully and went their into over just European sisters would have done over the latest Parisian creation. Like most other natives of Africa. . the are Wa Taita exceedingly superstitious. and this failing is " turned to good account by the all-powerful witchdoctor " or "medicine-man. to the top of and then started again on our journey hills. or This "lion medicine". I background but to fine was surprised to find a number I of well-fed cattle on the mountain top. an extraordinary sight to see the absolute faith with which a Ki Taita will blow the simba-dawa. and this took their fancy immensely they . have on a new puggaree. part of through a thick black forest. fancy casting an evil spell M'gogo thought I was over them when he saw me photographs of them as they grazed peacefully on the sweet grass which covered the taking plateau. and tive made a very panorama. for instance. We the made a short halt for rest and refreshment. to the four points of the compass before lying down to sleep in the open.

they may devour after and blowing he will ceremony lie the down to sleep in perfect confidence. 127 daw a of course. that he does not live to if become an it while he it is is not attacked. more- \VA TAITA MKN. but the Ki Taita firmly believes that a few grains of this dust blown round the him of from the palm is hand a complete against seek- safeguard raging lions ing whom . even in the midst of dis- a man-eater's trict. .xi SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES which is. he never loses this touching faith . in if the efficacy of the witch- doctor's charm it for he is attacked by a lion. to is of course quite clear that the daw a that he owes his immunity. over. the brute sees to unbeliever. In the nature of things. usually carried in a tiny horn stuck through a slit in the ear. obtainable only consists simply of a little from black the witch-doctor powder.

indeed. roughly-fashioned sword) hung on a leathern thong round the waist. the mixture. As usual. is the filing of the front teeth into sharp which gives the whole face a most peculiar diabolical and rather expression. ideas of costume are rather primitive the men loins. slung on the shoulder when on the march. their . they hardly ever ventured fastnesses. and. while their ears are hung with pieces The men of chain and other fantastic ornaments. but the family huts are clustered together. Both sexes adorn themselves with a great quantity of copper or iron wire coiled round their arms and all legs. sometimes wear a scrap of cloth round the while the women content themselves with the same or with a short kilt. The most curious custom of the tribe points. and as a rule all live in perfect harmony. also . as well as a seemie (a short. For the the Wa Taita are essentially a . peace-loving and industrious people before the arrival of the British in the country. down from their their mountain warlike owing for to dread of the Masai. and smear their bodies over with grease. Many of the men adding red clay to the women also wear dozens of rows of beads. afford to Each man has pay in as many wives cattle .128 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO rest. as he can sheep or he provides each spouse with a separate establishment. always carry bows and poisoned arrows. stool is A three-legged and is an important part of their equipment. CHAP.

though when driven it to by hunger they will commit very cruel and treacherous acts of wholesale murder. province. and to the may be seen from M'toto Athi River. the front teeth. While the railway was being constructed. M'KAMHA \YOMAN. who inhabit the Ukambani Andei tribe. As a a too.xr SWAHILI AND OTHER NATIVE TRIBES The next 129 people met with on the road to the Great Lakes are the Wa Kamba. a severe famine occurred in their part of the country.split up into many clans under who govern in a chiefs patri- archal kind of way. During this period they several times swooped clown on isolated railway maintenance gangs and utterly annihilated them. in order to obtain possession of the food which they knew would be K stored . They are a very large little but have cohesion. they are peace-loving people. rule. In appearance and dress or the want of like it they are very the Wa and they have the same custom of filing Taita. being. when hundreds of them died of starvation.

These attacks were always made by Like most other native races in East Africa. in addition to caring for their spiritual .130 in THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CH. life. flesh is The arrow-head remains is in the when the shaft withdrawn. pitchy-looking essence which remains. arms are the bow and poisoned arrow. This am glad to however. by boiling down a particular root. I within an hour or two. xi the camps. that owing to the establishment of several Mission Stations amongst them. the skin round the wound turning yellow and mortifying fresh. I believe. the \Va Kamba are quickly becoming . the arrow-heads being clipped in the black. night. and if the poison and death very quickly follow. the most civilised natives in the country and the missionaries have adopted the sensible course of teaching the people husbandry and the practical arts and crafts of everyday needs. their only but in the use of these primitive weapons they are specially expert. say. paralysis deadly poison is obtained.

lashed the gun in the fork of a tree. go off especially anxious to to made up my mind the Sabaki. so I try my luck on the banks of I Unfortunately. In these I had double charges of powder and a hardened bullet made I of lead well mixed with about the anxiety an eighth part of tin. and then taking shelter behind a K 2 .CHAPTER XII A NIGHT AFTER HIPPO DURING my to stay at Tsavo I made many little excursions into the surrounding country. occurred to me to supply the deficiency by manufacturing a few cartridges for my smooth-bore. with which I fired the ammunition. and used on a short shooting and exploring expeI was dition whenever I had the opportunity. rifle. remember first round of my home-made As I more than I half expected that the barrel would burst. bag a hippopotamus. is possessed no heavy which but it almost a necessity for hippo shooting. tied a piece of string a hundred feet longto the trigger.

me I All the great confidence in the weapon. CHAP. that gleams of light soon began to return to my eyes. My plan was to remove the shot from the cartridge. This was quite good enough for my purpose. All my preparations having been made. cook Mabruki. taking with me my Indian gun- bearer Mahina. for some unknown reason. however. found that they would smash through a steel plate an eighth of an inch thick at thirty yards' range. put in the additional powder. and gave same. for I had been blinded. More than I on trying the penetrative effect of my bullets. and in a few hours' time I was almost all right again and able to go on with my cartridge making. I Everything became groped my way about the hut I in thought agony of mind as well as of body.132 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO stump pulled off. I had clamped my refilling machine the table. I am thankful to say. and little face. the whole charge exploded right into my pitch dark to me. that. and replacing the ram in this well in before wad and putting the bullet. I set out for the Sabaki. and was stamping to my rough-hewn charge of double powder well down into the cartridge. a bhisti (waterand a couple of natives to carry our odds my . carrier). friendly To my great satisfac- tion the barrel stood the test perfectly. when suddenly. had a very narrow escape one day while this manufacturing some of ammunition.

if one is from the be it only for tempted to stray away a few yards. things). Palms festooned with brilliant flowering flourish along its course kinds of all trees. thorny wilderness of Here the sun beats down stunted. On these occasions I usually took no but bivouacked in the open. and are found oreat numbers amon<r o o the rocks along the banks of the rivers. foot The river has its source at the of snow-crowned Kilima N'jaro. to their lack of a of which indeed they possess not even a vestige. They owing them tupu (shameless. and other creepers. one comes immediately into the parched. naked tail. but I could always depend upon getting a paa. monkeys chatter and jabber in the shade overhead to branch. leafless trees. . took some bread and a few tinned provisions with us. and makes the nyika of the Tsavo valley almost intolerable. 133 and tent. Our River. river. but the Swahili will not touch call them. giving a very tropical aspect to the scene.xii A NIGHT AFTER HIPPO ends. partridge or rock-rabbit for the larder on the We march. These rock-rabbits are more in like big rats than rabbits. its route lay by the always interesting Tsavo Along the banks everything within reach of moisture is delightfully fresh and green. They are not at all bad eating. pitilessly. as they swing themselves from branch while birds of the most gorgeous plumage flutter about. guineafowl. On the other hand. whence it .

We had gone about half the distance to the Sabaki when we came upon an unexpected obstacle in the shape of a great . about seven miles united below Tsavo Station. flows for about eighty miles in a northerly direction until it joins the Athi River. we caught glimpses of startled bush-buck and also. owing to the engaged. some seventy miles north of Mombasa. but although we followed our journey was nevertheless a very slow " UNTIL IT JOINS THE ATHI RIVER. while occasionally the sound of a splash in the water told of a wary crocodile. water-buck. The march was full of interest." overhanging branches and creepers. From this point the streams take the name of Sabaki and flow more or less eastwards until they reach the Indian Ocean at Malindi.i 34 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. from which we had constantly to be disone. for it was not long before we came upon fresh tracks both of hippo and rhino. A along narrow and tortuous its Masai warpath winds this trail whole length. Every now and again. however.

and was much relieved. which extended for about a mile or so on both banks of the sheer river. therefore. the haste Although we do at once made we could to get round the ridge of rocks. The river took a sharp bend in this gorge. in an instant. no clanger. to find safe when we reached him and sound. lifted right off his feet by the rush of the water and whirled away. therefore determined to make a detour round it. rugged rock. he tied it to his back and stepped rocky ledges. about a hundred feet high. the river-side once more.xii A NIGHT AFTER HIPPO J 35 ridge of barren. however. For a few minutes he was all went well. I took us nearly half an hour to had almost given up hope of ever seeing Mahina again. I could walk along in the river at the possibility of there hinted mildly being crocodiles under the that declared. the last glimpse we caught of him showing him all it vainly trying to catch hold of an overhanging branch. and he was round it and out of our sight in no time. The I sides of this gorge went down into the water. Then. it. Eventually we arrived the junction of the . but Mahina was confident that he itself. and were quite im- possible to scale. and making a bundle of his there was lower garments. and little the worse for his adventure. Luckily he had been dashed up against a rushy bank. and had managed to scramble out with no more serious damage than a bruised at shin. Mahina into the water.

I believe. As with lined the Tsavo. affording most the welcome shade from the heat of skirting the river still is sun : and a caravan road from the interior gling slaves used. smugwhere dhows for are in readiness to convey them to Persia or Arabia." round.WITH TREES. and proceeded some way down the Sabaki. which hippo find capital covert the year "THE BANKS OK THE SABAKI ARE LINED. . Several islands are dotted about tall in mid-stream and are overgrown with in reeds and all rushes. and ivory to the coast. trees the banks various of the Sabaki are with of kinds.'36 rivers THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. beside which the Tsavo looks very insignificant.

in which to spend of the Having some difficulty in we crossed to the other rather a risky finding a likely spot. side the river thing to in do it : on account a of the number of crocodiles we found fairly shallow ford. but proany other game was We had not gone very far when Mahina. It was the antelope. I left my followers encamped a safe boma a mile away from the river. about. who was a little way ahead. fine I and was delighted with the but might have got twenty yards or so nearer. As there was still about an hour before sundown. started near a night. first time I I had seen one of these sight. picked out a tree close to the river and commanding a stretch of sand which was all flattened At length down and looked as if at least one hippo rolled there regularly every night. .xii A NIGHT AFTER HIPPO After an early dinner. hippo run ". we did not take up our station at once. signalled to me. however. Here. we found innumerable traces of both hippo and rhino in fact the difficulty was to decide which track was the best and I freshest. out with Mahina to find a suitable " and tree. and managed to get safely over. on what was evidently an island during flood time. and ceeded along the bank to see if on joining him I saw a splendid-looking waterbuck standing in a shallow pool of the river. which 137 Mabruki soon got in ready.

and then turned and galloped quickly behind an island which completely hid I thought had better not risk him from view. The buck gave one leap into the air. knock-down strikes a part and even then. We I waited for him to clear the rushes at the other end of this island. regardless rounding the island. an a animal wounded with a hard bullet is likely to make a speedy recovery. moving. that unless it it This '303 effect in the has very vital little . On the other hand. appointed at follow was keenly my : failure. which is a great blessing. Mahina was even more upset at the escape of the buck than I was. an animal may manage to go far enough to be lost. but as he did not appear the else. By of a splendid moon we settled ourselves on a great . bush country. he was evidently or turned off the shelter of the I reeds and so dis- gained the opposite bank. and set to in. nowhere to be seen. and had while in On anything however.138 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO I CHAP. him up to was impossible do so we should have had for it to to make a long detour to get across the river. got impatient and plunged into of crocodiles river. and as we trudged back through the sand to our tree. he was full of gloomy forebodthe light ings of an full unlucky night. so I aimed at the shoulder and fired. by that time darkness would have incident shows the great drawback namely.

but as he emerge seemed determined not to show himself I lost patience and watched made up my mind handed to go down to after to him. to was nothing a be seen. and began to descend carefully. . I my ill-luck and want of patience. this For ungainly from his covert. just as to was this helpless half-way the hippo suddenly came out calmly bitterly ground. the great from his shelter and lumbered lamented along right underneath me.xii A NIGHT AFTER HIPPO branch. most tantalising way. or a rhino or hippo crash through the bushes on its way to the water : now and again we Still could there even hear the distant roar of the lion. peculiar sounds a night bird would a crocodile shut his jaws with a snap. Soon the jungle around us with its began to be alive call. completely hid him Here he stood tooting and snorting from view. 139 outspreading and commenced our vigil. holding on by the creepers lower to me which encircled the tree. but unfor- tunately took up his position behind a tree which. After waiting at for last some considerable his time. condition. the and splashing about what seemed hours creature to to I his heart's for content. I therefore my rifle Mahina on reaching the ground. To my I intense vexation in and disappointment. great hippo made in appearance and came splashing along in our direction.

for could almost . Then we heard lion the by.have touched It I his broad back as he passed. so I did not disturb them. I climbed up to my perch again without loss of time. and returned no more. and is without doubt he looking brute I the ugliest and most forbidding have ever beheld. traction engine. the great beast had passed our tree. I broke the creepers by which I was holding on and landed on my back in the sand at the foot of the tree none the worse for my short drop.140 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO I CHAP. I likelihood of getting a shot at him from our foot. they far off for a shot. smashing through them like a In screwing myself round to watch him go. made up my mind through the trees to stalk him on so we both slowly- descended from our perch and made our way in the semi-darkness. Shortly after this we saw- two rhino come down were too to the river to drink . conditions that was under these exasperatingsaw a hippo for the first time. and dived into the bushes close by. snorted loudly. The moment he scented us. and they gradually waddled up-stream out of sight. however. but he was evidently as much frightened as I was. but considerably startled at the thought that the hippo might come back at any moment. awe-inspiring- roar of a hungry close and presently challenge a another hippo gave little forth his tooting way down the river. There . As there seemed no tree.

not twenty-five yards away. so I thought the best thing to do was to attempt to get on to the island and too. to us made me rather anxious for our more his especially as just then he rose to feet and gave forth the peculiar challenge or call which we had already heard so often during the .xii A NIGHT AFTER HIPPO I 141 were numbers of animals about. was quite our knees. I was surprised to find that I On could see nothing of the hippo I . and neither of us in felt am for sure that very comfortable as we . but I soon realised that on lowering my was looking too far ahead. His half covered closeness safety. Mahina. however. crept along the direction of the splashing hippo I my own part fancied every moment that I saw in front of me the form of a rhino or a lion ready to charge down upon pitch. which here shallow and reached only to slowly across. with nerves strung to the highest only we reached the edge of the river in safety. and waded peering cautiously through the reeds at the corner of the island. so we let our- selves quietly into the water. on the other side of which our quarry could be heard. to have a shot at him from there. to find that we were again baulked by a small There was a good breeze rush-covered island. was eager for the fray. blowing directly from him. only and practically facing us. In this manner. for eyes there he was. lying down in the shallow water. us out of the shadow of the bush.

as my first shot had been brain. which were rather flesh. I CH. xn night. good ones. He whirled round. who had been hunting in the neighbourhood. make assurance doubly sure. I gave him a couple more a bullets as he lay. but we found afterwards that they were not needed.142 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO All the same. . glad and relieved to be in safety once more. and then lay quite still. and feasted ravenously on the while I turned my attention with gratitude to the hot coffee and cakes which Mabruki had meanwhile prepared. to our very lucky left We one and had penetrated the him where he fell and got back perch. fired at it. As soon as it was daylight we were joined by my own men and by several Wa Kamba. The natives cut out the tusks of the hippo. made a plunge forward. To staggered and fell. as he raised his head.

Mabruki was a great and by no means courageous. We put us all in excellent spirits. careful that a it it warned him that he had better be lion did not scent the meat. as if did would be I sure to follow up and kill him. I heard a . which northern bank.CHAPTER XIII A DAY ON THE N'l)UNGU ESCARPMENT IMMEDIATELY after breakfast and accompanied by a few of started off for the camp was struck. some three or miles from its had not gone very far before I caught sight of a fine water-buck and successfully bowled him over a good omen for the day. we a frown- N'dungu Escarpment four ing ridge which runs for a great distance parallel to the Sabaki. so I wanted seriously . but to frighten him. As we trudged along towards the hill. Of course did not mean this glutton. Mabruki cut off several strips of the tough on a sharp I stick to dry in meat and impaled them the sun as he went along. the Wa Kamba.

watching the . and on looking over the crest.THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP." away and straining their long necks to get at the tops of some mimosa-like trees. while a young one was lying down in the grass quite close to me. distance For some time I remained concealed. peculiar noise behind a small rising on our right. I was delighted to see two beautiful giraffe feeding peacefully a little " I CAUGHT SIGHT OF A FINE \VATERI5UCK AM) SUCCESSFULLY BOWLED HIM OVKR.

" IN THE C. towards the escarp- . accordingly. their way back to their home on the escarp- They seemed on the most affectionate terms. shoot these rather rare and I left very harmless creatures.RASS (JUITK CLOSE gently biting each other on the shoulders. unless one special purpose. is required for a We pushed on. occasionally entwining their great long necks and "A YOUNG ONE WAS LYING DOWN TO ME. as I Much should have liked to have added a giraffe to collection of trophies. and were slowly making ment. my as I think it a pity to them undisturbed.xin A DAY ON THE N'DUNGU ESCARPMENT interest : 145 full-grown pair with great they had evi- dently just come up from the river.

was very impatient to get to the top and explore a place where I felt convinced no other From the river the white man had ever set foot. Here I found the same kind of nyika as that round . Tsavo Station and other itself. buildings were plainly visible.146 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO I CHAP. and was covered more or less densely with stunted trees " and bushes. Having taken a few photographs of we turned and struck through the N'dungu Plateau. ment. could be seen for the many miles winding its way through parched wilderness. home tents. The climb up the escarpment itself was a stiff one. made we a mental note to do so on some future occasion. however. and of course the inevitable " I was fortunate enough. which lay spread out Our like a map about five hundred feet below us. for ground rose gently upwards to the foot of the ridge. to find a rhino path which afforded a fairly comfortable and open road. but on way up I discovered that there was an enormous cleft some miles to the right which would probably have afforded an easier ascent. and the railway like a shining snake. explore it I had not time but I to on this particular day. the bridge. on which we could walk upright the greater part of the way. and had the to be negotiated principally on all-fours. After a two hours' journey from the river sat panting on the summit after our scramble and sur- veyed the valley of the Tsavo. wait-a-bit thorns. the scene.

and charged away from us through the jungle.that there were more green trees about.xiu A DAY ON THE N'DUNGU ESCARPMENT 147 Tsavo. was more frightened than we. I was leading the way. even the joining in usually silent Wa Kamba the general laughter as they scrambled for the discarded meat. though a few steps further on brought us to the remains o of a zebra . the only difference being. along which we could walk upright in comfort. however. and was intersected by hundreds of broad and well-beaten animal paths. moreover. It gave a fierce growl and at once bounded off through the bush but to Mabruki who doubtless recalled then . \Ve saw nothing more of the lion. The country. Mabruki enough. For about two hours we pursued our journey into L 2 . the warning I had given him in fun earlier in the day the incident appeared so alarming that he flung his stick-load of to down much meat and fled for his life. the amusement of the others. was somewhat more open. followed closely by Mahina and Mabruki. kept only carefully the Curiously a short while later we had an exactly similar adventure with a rhino. into it we walked Like the before it we were aware. as owing rio-ht o to the tortuous nature of the path. lion. which he had recently after this killed and feasted on in but rear. when suddenly we almost walked upon a lion which was lying down at the side of the path and which had probably been asleep.

and indeed the whole region was so dry and waterless as to be quite uninhabitable. we saw no signs. wart - hog. was to return to the river and in order to accom- plish this before dark should be out so lost.giraffe. including. climbed highest could find order to have a good I look round. bush-buck. the lesser kudu. time we were therefore in all and the bkistis I beginning to feel stock of water was the running tree I low. same the a eye could reach place should one be lost . and saw and heard a wonderful variety of game. the last being of a redder colour than those of the Tsavo valley.148 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. baboons and monkeys. hopeless. Of human habitations. which accounts for the thousands of animal paths leading from the plateau to the river. however. The animals that require water have to make a nightly journey to and from the Sabaki. by savage beasts staring one Clearly. the only thing to do or . terrible with certain death either in by thirst the face. then. most in it. By very this tired. rhino. interspersed here and there with a few green trees not a landmark of any sort or kind as far as flat . was necessary that no time But we had been winding in and it much through the animal paths that it was no . zebra. and any number of natives or of pact. the plateau. but absolutely nothing could direction but the see in any thorny wilderness.

Kamba followers as to the First I consulted my Wa route back I . I accordingly insisted on our keeping to this path. a couple of away from the place where we had made the Here a halt was called a sheet was spread ascent. to my great relief. confirmed my own at once. however. we found that we were at the edge of the escarpment. but volunteered the helpful and cheering information that we were as to our sun. had been following a broad white rhino path.xin A DAY ON THE N'DUNGU ESCARPMENT 149 easy matter to say in which direction the Sabaki lay. Then asked Mahma. who pointed out a direction exactly I opposite to that which one. knew nothing. miles . and the great footmarks of one of these beasts were fresh and plainly visible in the dust. and I felt sure that he must have from drinking in been returning the river. we trudged along the fearful object heat without striking a single familiar or landmark. felt confident was the right Mabruki. even Mahina expressed grave doubts as to whether " " had taken the right direction only Sahib the . direction to For some time we He had been travelling in the opposite us. the Wa Kamba stalked along in re-assuring silence. idea way by comparing my watch and to start the and gave the order solid For in two hours. of course. lost and would I all be killed by lions. In these circumstances. they simply shook their heads. and very soon. Mabruki murmured loudly . .

but I might not have enjoyed it quite so much if I had known then of the terrible fate which awaited one of my followers in the I same river the next clay. The place where previous we had evening was some I struck the Sabaki the miles further before. but in the wilds the unexpected always happening. By and the time fully got back to appreciated. so trail I down its the stream than had ever been decided to take advantage of the Masai until the along I bank Tsavo River was reached.i5o THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO trees. over some of the stunted and under food. had some and drank the last of our water. and arrived at the Sabaki good time before sundown. CHAP. and a start was at once made on our return journey to Tsavo. having bagged a couple of guinea-fowl and a paa on the for dinner. the wild beasts in At dawn Mabruki roused me with a cup of steaming hot coffee and some biscuits. way to serve After the long and fatiguing day my bathe in a clear shady pool was a real delight. After this we pushed on with in renewed vigour. its shade we rested for half an hour. with did not think we should meet any further adventure on is our way home. regardless of Africa. camp supper was ready The tireless Mahina had for also collected some dry grass my bed. and slept the all sleep of the just. and I turned in at once. with my rifle handy. Shortly after we started one of .

but on hearing the cries of the others I A CROCODILE ON THE SABAKI. I was on ahead at the time and so did not witness the occurrence. native. seized the poor fellow and in a moment had dragged him in. whose loss did not .xin the to A DAY ON THE N'DUNGU ESCARPMENT 151 Wa Kamba fill went with down to the river's edge his calabash water. much and the other three Wa Kamba certainly did not appear to be affected by the incident. all it see any sign of either crocodile or Mahina matter philosophically remarked that after was only a washenzi (savage). ran back as quickly as possible to too late. but calmly possessed panion's themselves of their dead comquiver of poisoned arrows. and bow and . however. when a crocodile suddenly rose up out of the stream.

on the rocks at the head of these marching and some hours' hard reached camp without further incident. . He was filling his water bottle at the river. and best the thunder of the falling water can then be plainly water. when one of these brutes caught him by the hand and attempted to draw him in. and the falls heard at Tsavo. I have since learned that accidents of this kind are of fairly frequent occurrence along the banks of these rivers. We crossed the falls. Fortunately one of his servants rushed to his assistance and pull managed to him out of the crocodile's clutches with the loss only of two of his fingers. xm of the he had left on the bank. when the wind river after is in the right direction. but a series this cascades.152 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO stock of meat which CH. At time the river was in low consequently did not look their but in flood time they form a fine sight. over seven miles away. On one occasion while I was in the country a British officer had a very lucky escape. we about a hundred' and of fifty feet high not a sheer drop. . As we made our way up discovered a beautiful waterfall the Sabaki.

who was so stout that he went by the name of Moota (i. On this occasion. In the course of my little excursions round I Tsavo I gradually discovered that to was nearly always able make my way to any required point of the compass by following certain well-defined animal paths.e. accompanied by Mahina and a Punjaubi coolie. we were in fortunate enough to find a rhino path leading the right direction.CHAPTER XIV THE FINDING OF THE MAN-EATERS* DEN THERE were some south-west of rocky-looking I hills lying to the particularly Tsavo which was anxious to explore. " Fattie "). I for the day owing to lack of set off for them. so on one occasion when work had been stopped material. as soon as we had crossed the river and had struck into the jungle. which I mapped out bit by bit during my explorations. As we were making our way along this path through the dry bed of a . for instance. which greatly facilitated our progress.

Unfortunately he caught sight of us as well. through a break in the trees a huge rhino standing in full view near the edge of a ravine. and its : facets looked as if I they Amsterdam glass expert.i 54 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO I CHAP. that by an tested the stone on my watch cut cut had been and found I it my initials quite easily. trated the dense foliage. though I unlike any other mineral had ever come across. and began to have rosy dreams of a . and as the spot looked likely enough. at the gravel with I started to dig vigorously my hunting knife. For a moment or two I was greatly delighted with did not to me my discovery. this and though well. it knew seem that quartz to would do as have either the general appearance or angles of any quartz I had ever seen. I After a few I minutes of this work. diamond mine but I am sorry to say that on closer I examination and testing clusion that was forced to the con- my find was not a diamond. came across what at first took to be a magnificent diamond sparkling in the damp sand it was about half an inch long. This at once filled my head with thoughts of precious stones. a millionaire having My hopes of rapidly becoming thus been dashed to the ground. happened to notice that the sandy bottom sparkled here and there where the sunbeams penenullah. I noticed of a gloomy forest. getting further and further into the depths A little distance on. and before I . we proceeded on our way.

Through this tangle there was a well-defined archway. soft sand. in which were In the indistinct tracks of numberless animals. he snorted loudly and crashed off through the tangled undergrowth.xiv FINDING THE MAN-EATERS' DEN 155 could take aim. In this Beyond all doubt. and on looking over the top of this I saw on the other side a fearsome- looking cave which seemed to run back for a conRound siderable distance under the rocky bank. I observed on my left a little nullah which opened out of the main channel through a confused mass of jungle and creeper. with here and there a copper bangle such as the natives wear. I had no . one corner of this bay. close under an overhanging tree. stood a little sandy hillock. this ravine. the entrance and inside the cavern I was thunder- struck to find a number of human bones. far had not gone very came upon a big bay scooped out of the bank by the stream when in flood and carpeted with when I a deposit of fine. which I had lair of these once-dreaded spent so many days searching for through the the in- exasperating and time interminable jungle during terrorised when they Tsavo. I stumbled upon the " demons ". As I followed up walking stealthily along in the delightful shade of the overhanging palms. and quite by accident. so decided to enter and explore what lay beyond. the man-eaters' den! manner. doubtless made by I I the regular passage of rhino and hippo.

gladly the horrible "BEYOND ALL DOUBT. two into the cavern through a hole in the roof. that my eyes . nothing came out I . Save for a swarm of bats. I my steps to the main ravine. then made only to discover. after all my trouble. and quickly signed to stay perfectly still. it. continued I my journey I along After a little while fancied saw a hippo among some the bank. and left after taking a photograph of the cave.i 56 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO to CHAP. I tall rushes growing on to Mahina and Moota a careful stalk. thankful that the !" which once inhabited Retracing it savage and insatiable brutes were no longer at large. clination interior. THE MAN-EATERS' DEN spot. explore the gloomy depths of the still I but thinking that there might possibly fired a shot or be a lioness or cub inside.

as he remarked. Mohammedan is followers rush in so quickly when an animal it shot and cut the head off so short that is afterwards quite useless as a trophy. Moota. I so I selected the largest and fired. darkness was fast approaching. When them he dropped in his tracks stoneI stood over the handsome creature I for Not so having killed him. be a living animal.xiv FINDING THE MAN-EATERS' DEN 157 had deceived me and made me to imagine a black bank and a few rushes now left the top. however. We the bed of the ravine. was positively sorry was done. and crouching under the flying past. and as was quite close to dead. flesh of and no true Mohammedan will eat the at any animal unless the throat has been cut the proper place and the blood allowed to flow. and advanced along This turned out to be a good move. Under it we built a . bushes saw a line first of startled zebras This was the time I had seen these beautifully marked animals in their wild state. By the time the zebra was skinned." for Moota was a devout follower of the Prophet. I rushed round a corner in the path a few yards ahead. for soon we heard the galloping of a herd of some animal or other across our front. and This before I could stop him had cut his throat. so to we selected a suitable tree in which pass the night. " to make the meat lawful. who rushed up in ecstasy. This custom has often caused for me great annoyance.

We then betook ourselves to the branches at least. proved simply delicious. and which were I strolled off kept a sharp look-out for game. and said full he of would sleep on the ground. We both laughed heartily at his extraordinary haste to get out of danger. I now only about half a mile distant. about midnight a great rhino passed our way. CHAP. until. courage later He for was not so on. I had no more time at my disposal in which to . Unfortunately and made off before I . winded us and snorted so loudly that Moota scrambled was in abject terror up our tree. while the boys were pre- paring breakfast. But he was too quick for me. and never ceased climbing until he was far above us. The and in the early morning. and Mahina chaffed rest of him unmercifully. goodly made some I of quails which and roasted a couple had shot early in the day and tea. and a leopard is too wary a beast to be caught napping. but came across nothing save here and there a paa and a few guinea-fowl. Mahina and I which did . the night passed without incident. Moota was afraid of nothing. just as I was about half-way round the hill. I saw a fine leopard lying on a rocky ledge basking in the morning sun.158 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO fire. He as nimble as a monkey for all his stoutness. I had not could get a shot approached noiselessly enough. hills which I towards the rockyhad seen from Tsavo. however.

and we were all 'WATCH THE ANIMALS COME DOWN TO DRINK." very glad when at length we reached the home camp. were made in a northerly direction. however. resume so after work at Tsavo as soon possible breakfast we packed up the zebra skin and began to retrace our steps through the jungle. It was an intensely hot day. 159 explore as I was anxious as to . Most of my little trips of this sort. towards the everAfter a long and it interesting Athi or Sabaki rivers. tiring walk through the jungle what a pleasure was to lie up in the friendly shelter of the rushes .xiv FINDING THE MAN-EATERS' DEN these hills.

the river. near a favourite drinking place. and here there was luckily a particularly well-defined rhino of. who were staying with me at Tsavo. took several photographs of scenes of this kind. as I have already learned to be much more cautious. but unfortunately many in of the negatives were spoiled. I Often. How exaspera- was. to the country. and watch the animals all come I down to drink. which banks. waiting for a shot at what- ever fortune might send ting it my way. being I new . I At the time. too. unconscious of my presence. and gave me away to the rhino or other animal I had sat there for hours patiently awaiting ! Occasionally vigil would get heartily tired of my weary and would wade ashore through the warm I water. to make my bed in the soft sand regardless snap of the crocodiles which could plainly be heard from the deeper pools up and down of the snap. described I The shortest way of reaching the Athi river from Tsavo was to strike through the jungle in a north- westerly direction.160 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO line the CHAP. when the wind changed at the critical moment. to spend a night on one occasion when . on a brilliant moonlight night have sat on a rock out the middle of the stream. I path it which I always made use discovered I quite by accident on had asked some guests. after did not realise the risks ran but later on my poor Wa Kamba follower had been seized and dragged under.

which appeared to lead in the direction in felt which I wished it to go. came across this well-trodden path. After all an hour or more. Our progress was now and the track led through fairly open glades where traces of bushbuck and water-buck were numerous indeed once or .xiv FINDING THE MAN-EATERS' DEN 161 the banks of the river. we caught glimpses of these animals as they bounded away to the shelter of the thicket. In the morning they went off as soon as it was the river. and as I convinced that at any rate I would bring us to it the river somewhere. guests greatly although one of them got rather a bad fright from a rhino which suddenly snorted close to our camp. in and my enjoyed their night the open. evidently very annoyed at our intrusion on his domain. We had a delightful picnic. for In the end. it struck the Athi at an ideal spot for a camping ground. so when they had I down would to rest after a hearty meal. As we were making our way I slowly and painfully through the dense jungle. see if I thought not sally forth and could meet M . however. followed easy. where some lofty trees close to the bank of the river gave a most grateful and refreshing shade. the old rhino path proved a true guide. they returned. emptysettled I handed but very hungry . while I light to try their luck along remained in camp to see to breakfast. as I anticipated. with confidence. warned twice by the sound of our approach.

and in the cool of the evening we made our way back to Tsavo without further adventure. and with the next moment was rewarded by I seeing a splendid in a bush-buck advance from the water manner. and that he had made off through I therefore re-loaded. thus giving me time to aim at where I supposed When I fired. The animal was soon skinned and furnished us with a delicious roast for lunch . and for the fraction of a second he stopped to gaze at at This movement me. . I lost no time in getting back to camp. I stopped instantly.1 62 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO better success. On the alert. and advanced carethe bush. but to my unbounded came upon the buck stretched out dead in his tracks. yards off. so suddenly and so completely that I felt sure that I had missed him. with my bullet through his heart. I CHAP. fully with the intention of following up his delight I trail . I raised my rifle to my shoulder to once caught his eye. the antelope swinging by his feet from a branch borne by two sturdy coolies and my unlucky friends were very much astonished when they saw : the fine bag I had secured in so short a time. but as he was only some fifty fire. could only most stately make out his head and neck above the undergrowth. had gone only a short distance up the right bank of the river. he disappeared his shoulder to be. when I thought I observed a movement among the bushes ahead of me.

is saiip ! (" Oh. while one of these to friends (Mr. M 2 . Master. wanted something from my so. C.xiv FINDING THE MAN-EATERS' DEN little 163 Some same at time after this. fetch it. we were dark be again under the verandah of my hut." when I called him back and told him to take a lantern for fear of snakes. which was only a " dozen yards Sahib. He was going my Indian chaukidar. to off in the dark to do "THE ANTELOPE SWINGING BY HIS FEET. Rawson) happened sitting after I Tsavo. there a big snake here ") "Where?" I shouted. This he did. and as soon as he got to the door of the tent. and sent Meeanh. tent. hurra off. Art. he called out hai ! " frantically.

the edge of the full of fight. and the poor man was so panicstricken that in a second he had torn off every atom at of his clothing." he seized cried. which I always kept handy. and we eventually found the snake. it men who had it Rawson now picked to the light. who happened to be standing near. blood.1 64 " THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO Here by the bed. about seven feet long. quickly. He made a last vicious dart at one of the run up. this. its He then put his up and brought foot on the back open the jaws. him clean half with the shot tail part remained where but the head half quickly wriggled off and The trail of disappeared in the gloom of the tent. by the light of the lantern. and rushed to the tent. " CHAP. enabled us to track still it. gazing at me the from the side of my campin it bed. I instantly fired at him. . but was quickly given the happy despatch by a blow on the head. where. of head and with a stick forced when suddenly we saw two perfectly clear jets of An Indian baboo poison spurt out from the fangs. was. cutting ." I the shot-gun. it I do no harm penetrated a cut or open wound in the never found out the name of this snake. Bring the gun. got the full benefit of this. (clerk). I saw a great red snake. however. unless flesh. under ground-sheet. We were very much amused could as of course we knew that although the poison it was exceedingly venomous.

but I also I was so much taken did not think about aback at its it appearance that it shooting until had glided off and disappeared in the thick undergrowth. colour have . . hissing venomously . said. I came upon it suddenly one day when out shooting. and stood erect.XIV FINDING THE MAN-EATERS' DEN as all I 165 which. It was evidently much startled. I was of a dark brick-red only saw one other of the I over all and same kind the time was in East Africa. HI Pro HKAl).

One day was out exploring in the dense bush some six or seven miles away from camp. I was very pleased. therefore. and found my progress more than usually slow. nor to be realised. In this were some fresh rhino footprints which seemed barely an hour old. After . owing to the fact that I had to spend most of my time crawling on through the jungle. to emerge suddenly on a broad and wellall-fours beaten track along which in I could walk comfortably an upright position. passage of many heavy animals and as I pushed cautiously forward I fully expected to come face to face with a rhino at every corner I turned. The roadway was beaten in places into a fine white dust by the I .CHAPTER XV UNSUCCESSFUL RHINO HUNTS the jungle round Tsavo was a network of rhino paths I had never so far been successful ALTHOUGH my efforts to obtain was my ambition yet in I one of these animals. so determined to follow them up.

The next afternoon. however. just at that expected his head to appear. who scented us immedi- gave a mighty snort and then dived madly away through the jungle. the clearing Nearer and nearer we I heard him coming steadily on. and ready. ately. monster as he approached there I knew. and by dusk we were safely but uncomfortably perched among I the branches directly over the path. moment the wind veered round and blew straight from us towards the rhino. however. had in my rifle I pointing it in the direction which But. For some considerable . xv UNSUCCESSFUL RHINO HUNTS 167 having gone a little way I fancied that I really did see one lying at the foot of a tree some distance ahead of me. to We had scarcely been there an hour when our delight we heard in a great rhino plodding along the track our direction. Unfortunately the moon had not was unable to catch sight of the .CH. Mahina and made our way back to the place. accordingly. so I yet risen. This. alas. that to see was light enough for me into him when he little emerged from the bushes round the foot of our tree. so I resting-place which was to made up my mind spend a night in the overhanging branches of the tree. was evidently a regularly used. but on approaching cautiously found that it was nothing more than a great brown heap of loose earth which one of the huge beasts had raised rolling about by on the soft ground.

time hear him crashing in through everything that came his ponderously way. tree. and was My scarcely more successful. next attempt to bag a rhino took place some months later. I had come down from Tsavo in the afternoon.i68 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO we could CHAP. and wedged himself in a fork of the tree way below me. and he must have gone a long distance before he recovered from his fright and slowed down to his usual pace. and stood out like a picture From my first looked at through a stereoscope. and spent a wakeful and uncomfortrate we neither able night for nothing. perch among the branches I watched a water-buck . but still some eight or ten calm and perfect in the tropics in . forefoot poised in the air thoroughly on the alert and looking round carefully and nervously for any . I at once its my position for the night in to sit Mahina preferred some little where he could take a comfortable nap. within a few yards of the it. and finding a likely river and with fresh footprints under decided to take up branches. night. accompanied by Mahina. It was a from the ground. such as can be seen only everything looked mysteriously feet beautiful the glorious moonlight. come to drink in the river . then a bush-buck a tiny paa emerged from the bushes and paused at every step with one graceful later. At any heard nor saw anything more of him. on the banks of the Sabaki.

xv UNSUCCESSFUL RHINO HUNTS At length it 169 trace of a possible enemy. looked round to discover the cause of this hurried exit. so I cautiously raised my rifle and levelled it at him. and to my surprise saw a large and very beautiful leopard crouching down and moving noiselessly in the At first I thought it must be direction of our tree. and then made off out of I sight as fast as ever he could go. I do not know . but I soon realised that it was Mahina that the brute was stalking intent on. if left to himself. on the poor little antelope. the jackal a second. but at last his appearance on the scene. the leopard would actually have made a spring at my sleeping but I had no intention gun-bearer. Just below us there . more For a long time after this nothing disturbed our the quarry I had hoped for made peace. All of a stopped dead for however. I at once to woke Mahina and made him come up secure quarters beside me. some animal on the ground below us. not even rustling a fallen in safety. Absolutely noticed it noiseless as I was in doing this. leaf in its stealthy advance sudden. he the on possibly a glint of moonlight barrel caught his eye into the bush before I and immediately disappeared could get in a shot. Just then I saw a jackal come up on its trail and begin carefully to stalk it. of letting him have a chance of even attempting this. reached the brink of the river and stooped to drink. Whether.

strange and curious things appeared. I consoled myself by thinking that he could not go far. This but instead of that time I expected him to fall had the mortification of seeing him rush off into I round like a peg-top. Mahina. filled gap was suddenly Without warning by a huge black mass a rhino making his shallow water. . was also of this opinion. a with his awkward our view. and of miles the spoor could thus for a couple. the huge beast whirled whereupon I fired again. and through this the broad stream like silver in the moonlight. On way. Instantly. and with extraordinary rapidity. we the of found the the wounded rhino clearly marked by great splashes of blood. ponderous certain stateliness combining strides. ful Almost directly beneath us he halted and stood for an instant clearly exposed to This was my opportunity . be easily followed. as he was hard hit. any reason for silence. and that I should easily find him when daylight arrived. out of the he came with a slow. and as there was no longer he chatted to me about many until When track grey dawn we got down from our perch. was an opening shone this the elephant grass which lined the river's edge. I took care- aim at his shoulder and fired. tread. . very leisurely. the jungle and of hearing him crash through it like a great steam-roller for several minutes.1 7o THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO in CHAP. who was in a wild state of excitement over the burra janwar (great animal).

One day they Tsavo in the afternoon very will sheer off on meeting a to attack . was no help arrived at so we struck out for home and tired. Rhinos are extraordinary animals. and there was no possibility of telling which way our finally . human being and make no attempt the next day. beasts have a very keen sense of smell. as I I did not like to for it. will only it and it is said that if a hunter stand perfectly still on meeting a rhino. will pass him by without attempting to molest I him. hungry and disappointed. was exceedingly sorry for this. but equally indifferent eyesight. it 171 At got fainter and fainter. however. and ceased altogether. that I have .xv UNSUCCESSFUL RHINO HUNTS length. was being smuggled down to the coast and was proceeding path. was told for a fact by an official who had been may long in the country that on one occasion while a gang of twenty-one slaves. These huge party by the suddenness of his rush. feel bound to add. they I execute a most determined charge. chained neck to neck as was the custom. for no apparent reason. so that we had to abandon the search the ground round about was rocky. a to in Indian file along a narrow rhinoceros suddenly charged out at right angles impaled the centre man on its horns and broke the necks of the remainder of the them. and not in any way to be depended upon. leave him wounded but there . quarry had gone. however.

172 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO far CHAP. have met one or two men who have been tossed generally means in on the horns of these animals. Eastwood." escaping death. so failed to come across anybody who has actually tried the experiment. I On the other hand. Mr. B. It being a cripple for if one even succeeds "SLAVES CHAINED NECK TO NECK AS WAS THE CUSTOM. He was on leave in at the time on a hunting expedition the neighbourhood of Lake Baringo. about eighty miles north of the railway from Nakuru. once gave me a graphic description of his marvellous escape from an infuriated rhino. the chief accountant of the Uganda Railway. and they described it as a very painful proceeding. and had shot and apparently . life.

How to live for the eight before imagine days after this doctor could be got to him I cannot but in the end he fortunately made a the he managed which elapsed good recovery. only sign of his his terrible experience being the absence of which had to be amputated. who were only attracted to the spot by the numbers of vultures hovering about. it then stuck its horn through his thigh and tossed him over its back. poor Eastwood where he had Finally. for and by it was not some hours that he was found his porters. . He was alone at the time. leaving helpless and fainting in the long grass fallen. right arm. however. 173 killed On its walking feet up to it.xv UNSUCCESSFUL RHINO HUNTS a rhino. the brute rose to and literally fell on him. repeating this operation once or twice. with this. it lumbered off. waiting in their ghoulish manner for life to be extinct before beginning their meal. Not content breaking four ribs and his right arm. a .

where fever. is about thirty miles 11. swampy spot. guineaworm. made him my host when my all day's work was news. and naturally discussed the local Amongst other things we con- chatted about the new road which was being structed from Voi to a rather important missionary station called Taveta. which. over. on the Mombasa side of Tsavo. by drainage Dr. near Mount Kilima N'jaro. At this time it was a miserable. but this state of affairs has now been completely altered away the jungle. and all kinds of horrible diseases were rampant . was the good old custom to put up with any friend one came across towards nightfall. . have already mentioned.CHAPTER XVI A WIDOW'S STORY VERY March as I shortly before I left Tsavo I went (on 1899) on inspection duty to Voi. Rose was and in by clearing and as medical charge it of the place at the time of my I visit. We spent a very pleasant evening together.

about twelve miles away from Voi." On enquiring what exactly had happened. but had not gone far from the doctor's tent when I saw in the distance four Swahili carrying something which looked like a stretcher along the newly-made road.CH. with his wife and children. they replied "Bwana O'Hara. while a little o child held on to her skirt. helped her to finish the distance to the doctor's tent she was so unstrung by her terrible I . and without waiting to hear any further particulars hurried I on as could fast as possible to give poor Mrs. I went quickly to meet them and called out to ask what they were carrying. Rose. utterly tired out with the what assistance to long walk. At directed to find men to the hospital and told them where Dr. O'Hara engineer in (the charge of the road-making). Fearing that some accident had happened. O'Hara. They shouted back " The master ") and when I asked what bwana. and so exhausted by her trying march carrying the baby that she was scarcely able night's experience . and that his wife and children were this I following behind along the road. Early next morning I went out for a stroll with my shot-gun. was encamped in the Wa Taita country. xvi A WIDOW'S STORY 175 and Dr. Rose mentioned that Mr. Some considerable way back I met her toiling alone with an infant in her arms. Bwana " that during the night their master had been killed by a the lion. they told me (" .

Rose at once did all CHAP. HOSPITAL TENT AT VOI WHERE MRS. " I shall give as nearly as possible in her own We I were in all asleep in the tent. he could both her a and for the children. . and one bed and my two and in another. my husband children restless. for THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO Dr. late in the afternoon sleeping draught and made comfortable When she was she appeared again much refreshed. and was able to tell us the following dreadful story. the mother being- given in one of the tents. o'HARA RESTED. I heard what I thought was I at once woke a lion walking round the tent. which words. got up give her .176 to speak. I The baby was to feverish so and something to drink as I was doing so.

went out. by a feeling as if the pillow were On being pulled away from under my head. The night being very hot. He looked tent. round the the of the and spoke to Swahili askari who was on sentry by the camp fire a little distance off. moment the askari fired his rifle. so my husband came in again. but found my I could not do so. but got no answer. telling me not to worry as it was only a donkey " that I had heard. The askari said he had seen nothing about except a donkey. looking round I found that my husband was denly roused gone. to come and help me. my husband threw back the tent door and lay down again beside After a while I dozed off. I then called to the askari saying I me. for into the bush. but he there refused. told 177 my a him I felt sure there was lion taking his outside gun with He jumped up and him. but was sudme. at once jumped off N . I jumped up and Just then called I him loudly. it and this fortun- ately frightened the lion. heard a noise I among the boxes outside the door. so rushed out and saw I poor husband lying between the boxes. ran up to him and tried to lift him. not more than two yards away. that was a lion standing beside looked up and saw the huge beast glowering at At this me.xvi A WIDOW'S STORY husband and about.

the its mouth. and that the seizing his head in its long tusks through his temples until they met again in the brain. . the saddest scene imaginable. for husband had died instantly and without while she had been resting Dr. the lion door. while I followed with the children until met you. and it was only by firing through the tent every now and then that we I kept him out.178 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO came forward and the bed. growl- ing and purring. ''All four askaris then lifted my husband dead. The weeping widow. Rose had to this made had a post-mortem examination of the body and come conclusion." pitiful Such was only comfort that her Mrs. He found that O'Hara had evidently been lying on his back at lion. back on to He was quite We had hardly got back into the tent before returned and prowled about in front of the in showing every intention of springing to recover his prey. CHAP. but did no damage beyond frightening him away again for He soon came back and cona moment or two. O'Hara's story. The askaris fired at him. The we could give her was to assure her pain . tinued to walk round the tent until daylight. while in I assisted It was lowering the rude coffin into the grave. had closed We doctor reading the funeral service. the time. buried him before nightfall in a peaceful spot close by. At daybreak he disappeared and I had my husband's body carried here.

XVI A WIDOW'S STORY '79 the wondering faces of the children. N 2 . shot from a tree top by one of the Wa _~ IN THE BAZAAR AT KAMPALA. very terrible tragedy of real I am glad to say that within a few weeks' time the lion that killed was responsible Taita. for this tragedy was by a poisoned arrow. the gathering gloom of the closing evening. the dusky forms of a few natives who had gathered round all combined to make a most striking and solemn ending to a life.

as the line progressed onward I to the interior. set out my new headquarters on March 28. time railhead had reached a place called By this Machakos Road. the as I same was very glad to be given this new post. therefore. 1899. the latter being treeless and . received instructions to proceed to railhead and take charge of a section of the work there." CHAPTER XVII AN INFURIATED RHINO MY when I work at Tsavo was finished in March. some two hundred and seventy-six miles from Mombasa and within a few miles of the great Athi Plains. For many reasons I was sorry to say good-bye to Tsavo. where I had spent an eventful year but all ."THE GREAT ATHI PLAINS. In good spirits. knew that there would be a great deal of interI esting work to be done and a constant change of camp and for scene.

and the air felt fresh and cool . On the way I was lucky enough to get some fine views of Kilima N'jaro. From this place. Here I could see for I At Machakos Road miles across stretches of beautiful. however. the character of the country remains unaltered for some considerable distance. and it is about two hundred miles from the coast through the not until Makindu is reached that a run change is apparent. timbered here and there like it open downs. found the country and the climate very different from that to which. the difference in temperature was also very marked. the fairly open and interesting journey tract of country. I had grown accustomed at Tsavo. bare of everything except grass.CH. the line continuing to thorny nyika. xvn AN INFURIATED RHINO 181 waterless expanses. After leaving Tsavo. which the great herds of game keep closely cropped. with the lofty peak of Kibo topping the fleecy clouds with its snowy head. was a great relief to be able to overlook a wide feel tract of country and to in on' all hemmed was no longer sides by the interminable and that I As Machakos Road depressing thorny wilderness. where game of all kinds abounds and can be seen grazing peacefully within a few lies through a hundred yards of the railway. is some four thousand feet higher above the sea level than Tsavo. an English park and . the whole mountain from base to summit standing out clearly and grandly.

made and hollows hills banked up tunnels have to be bored through . compared with that of the sun-baked valley I had spent the previous year." tion. move has to as by clockwork. which My instructions were to hurry on the construcNairobi. and level cuttings have to be . which lay about the Athi Plains and . the tion of the line as fast as possible to proposed headquarters of the Railway Administra- " FIRST THE EARTH SURFACE HAS TO BE PREPARED.182 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO in CHAP. fifty I miles further on across soon began to find plateEverything has to laying most interesting work. First the earth surface be prepared and rendered perfectly smooth if .

XVII AN INFURIATED RHINO 183 .

and nuts while following these are the men gang who actually fix the rails on the sleepers and link up Finally. we succeeded platelaying. after About I ten days in this my arrival at Machakos Road walked way It for five or six miles ahead of the last-laid rail. as it . along. and. fishplates. On one occasion . I Com- made it my custom to take a rails walk each morning for some distance ahead of line of the railway. in etc. . while on other days we might do over a mile all depended on the nature of the country we had to cover. the packing from one to another. in along the centreorder to spy out the land and to form a rough estimate of the material that would in be required the way It of sleepers. and bridges thrown across coolies Then at a line of regular moves . able lo lay only a few yards. finishes the work by filling in earth and ballast under and around the steel sleepers to give them the Some days we were necessary grip and rigidity.1 84 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO rivers. another gang drops the rails in their yet another brings along the keys. girders to for this temporary bridges. was rather unusual for me to go so far. breaking the record for a day's and were gratified at receiving a in telegram of congratulation from the Railway mittee at the Foreign Office. placing sleepers intervals places bolts . CHAP. was necessary do order to avoid undue delay taking place owing to shortage of material of any kind.

XVII AN INFURIATED RHINO 185 happened. continued to advance very cautiously. it was an ostrich I I started off towards it Very soon. I was alone on this occasion. About two miles away on my left. time he evidently suspected to his feet. and thinking it. wriggling until at length I through the short grass fifty got within yards I Here lay huge beast was resting. found that was bigger still game than an ostrich." made out I the form of a great rhinoceros lying down. Mahina having been left behind in camp. for rising in he looked straight my direction and . and watched him but after some little of where the . and on getting nearer "ANOTHER GANG DROPS THE RAILS IN THEIR PLACES. my presence. however. I noticed a dark-looking object.

but luckily for me he did not catch sight of left. however. while scarcely dared to breathe. On he I thundered. sending the dry mud Their only real effect. and I could not resist the temptation of sending a couple of bullets after him. then proceeded to walk round a half-circle.1 86 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO me in CHAP. he whipped round in his tracks like a cat and came for me in a bee- Hoping further. indeed. my courage began to revive again. and could scarcely hope to escape a second time. Unfortunately. quite flat flung myself down ten feet on the grass and threw my helmet some away in the hope that he would perceive it his and vent rage on I it instead of me. but unfortunately my On soft-nosed bullets merely annoyed effect him and had not the slightest seeing this. got wind of me. me and he charged by a few yards to my passed me. The moment he line. could hear him snorting and rooting up the grass quite close to me. I fired instantly . He stood stock-still for a moment. and then gored the ground most viciously and started off once more on the This proceeding terrified me semi-circle round me. simply cracked against his hide and splintered to pieces on it. off in little clouds of dust. As soon as had These. I on his thick hide. was to make him still more angry. as I felt sure that he would I come me again. more than up-wind at ever. my surmise . to turn him.

position I me again ! I never felt so relieved in to my life. I myself into the luckily the grass ground. I fully expected myself tossed into the Nearer and came the heavy thudding. I fairly I pressed could. and turn and twist in their I tracks just like monkeys. watched him gradually disI could not have believed possible that these huge. when from my lying nearer caught sight. and it was with great satisfaction that appear it in the distance. for directly he scented me. and I had quite given myself up for lost. Dr. I f he had found me he would certainly have pounded me to atoms.xvn AN INFURIATED RHINO 187 proved correct. He had missed of the infuriated beast rushing by. time. and assuredly did not attempt He went off for good I this annoy him further. One day when ing. Brock and incident I were out shootfar shortly after this it and not sight of from where in occurred. up went his nose in the air and down he charged like a battering-ram. we caught little two rhinos us. as he was an old bull and in a most furious and vicious mood. My heart was thumping like a steam hammer. and every to find moment air. a hollow some distance from and . out of the corner of my eye. ungainly-looking brutes could move so rapidly. yet dared not move or look up he should see me. feet lest and felt the thud of his great pounding along. had this not actually seen one do so before my eyes. as flat as ever was a few inches high.

we managed to IT NEVER MOVED AGAIN. to it When decided upon gave me the chance instantly at had been waiting for. fifty yards apart one or other of us would be able to get in a broadside shot.i88 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO to stalk them. I fired the hollow between neck and shoulder . taking CHAP. advantage of every fold of the ground in doing so and keeping about In that event in case of a charge. which commenced would probably in this roll the beast over. ' get within about sixty yards of them. just as it was moving at last I its great head from one it side to the other. I took aim at the larger of the two. Proceeding carefully manner. the brute dropped at once. and save for one or two . attack. wondering which of us it ought Brock. and as it was my turn for a shot.

tough job.XVII AN INFURIATED RHINO its convulsive kicks of its stumpy legs as it lay half on never moved again. as We then proceeded to skin our this. but may be imagined. before at last we succeeded in it away. and the r trophy was well w orth the pains it I had taken to add to my collection. We it did not want to and accordingly spent about two hours in shouting and throwing stones at driving prize ." I HAD TAKEX . The second rhino proved to be a well-grown youngster which showed back. 'THE TKOI'HV WAS WELL WORTH THE PAINS TO ADD IT TO MY COLLECTION. it considerable fight as fallen we attempted to approach kill it. its comrade. proved rather a we managed it in the end.

eland. is hardly to be distinguished from the ter latter in the of the country. tract of rolling downs covered with and inter- sected here and there by dry ravines. however. hartebeeste. waterbuck. trees along the the only baked banks of which a few stunted ones to be seen In all this struggle to keep themselves alive. giraffe. is expanse there absolutely no water in the dry season. is the great abundance game of almost every conceivable kind. rhinoceros. except in the Athi River (some forty miles away) and in a few water-holes known only to the wild animals. and the one which gives them a of I never-failing interest. wildebeeste. zebra. which gradually merges into the Athi Plain. and. The great feature of the un- dulating plains. Here myself have seen lion.CHAPTER XVIII LIONS ON THE ATHI PLAINS SHORTLY after I took charge at railhead we entered the Kapiti Plain. . indeed. appearance or general characTogether they form a great grass. leopard.

xvni LIONS ON THE ATHI Thomsoni. besides greater and lesser bustard. from the Tsavo River on the east to the strictly Kedong Valley on the west. ostriches. and a host of other animals and birds too numerous to name .CH. PLAINS impala. while along the Athi and close to its banks may be found large numbers of hippo and crocodiles. At the time I was there. 191 wart-hog. Grant!. formed the principal grazing ground herds of cattle for the I immense owned by the Masai. . is now a protected Game is Reserve and so long as this huge expanse thus maintained as a sanctuary. am very glad to say that the whole of this country on the south side of the railway as far as the boundary of German East Africa. marabout. . AND ZEBRA. these great plains also JACKSON S HARTEBEESTE.

which could not be accomplished under a progressed onwards couple of months. species becoming While crossing this dry expanse. the greatest difficulty I had to contend with was the provision of sufficient water for the three thousand workmen WATERBUCK. became a very serious matter indeed.192 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO of any of these CHAP. employed about railhead. as any break- . there can be no danger extinct. the waterless As we this into belt. for not a drop could be obtained on the way. nor could we hope for any until we had got to the other side of the plain and had reached the Athi River.

more daring spirits go out on to the plains in the exist search of waterholes. the trains returned to railhead. day under the blazing sun of a Every day two trainloads of water last fell tanks were brought up from the passed. which. the line was blocked the time the water was being pumped into the tanks. daily stream further we had to the rear. them is not known to this day. in distributing the water to the workmen. to get a plentiful supply of water. however. who often quarrelled and when fought in their eagerness to get at it. and when I was experiencing to the o . for construction could come through and a good deal of time was also wasted. but on one occasion a lion came unpleasantly close to the men working the pump. The only result of these expeditions. of course. which. and consequently no material . and so night work had to be abandoned.xvin LIONS in ON THE ATHI would PLAINS 193 down the supply have had the most disastrous consequences among so large a body of men working in great all tropical climate. was what befell that three of these men never returned . indeed. The coolies themselves were so anxious. by reason of the large we knew must somewhere. that once or twice some of to among them ventured herds of game. for This was a source of considerable all delay. When we this had proceeded some distance across dry land. At first I had most of the tank-filling done by night.

if it could be relied upon so I questioned him closely. a native from some remote corner of the plains with nothing by way of dress but a small his left piece of cowhide thrown over shoulder- came on to my tent door one his heels in " day and squatted down the native fashion." . I expedition and had succeeded asked in if the place was far away. and made a ravenous meal. it M'bali kidogo (" A little distance"). who appeared starving there was a sore famine among the natives of the district at the time was given to be. On being asked I his business. full my tank trains. he . and got the reply " " Swahili: I Now.i 94 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO the disadvantage and delay caused by CHAP. replied." he . it "that the to him. have heard. to which interesting belonged. had had experience of M^bali kidogo before Irishman's "mile and a bit." . the food and drink. and obtained some I insight into many of the strange and barbarous tribe customs of the Masai. is like the So I decided to start very early next morning on a search for this pond In for such my informant described it meantime the poor fellow. and ascertained that some time previously exactly in how long ago I could not gather he had been the locality on a raiding in finding water. Great Master wants water I can show This was good news. In the evening had a long talk with him in broken Swahili round the camp fire.

whether of "kills" or of animals which had died of thirst I could not say. Our guide appeared very much upset when he found the pond empty. some miles to the right The march was full of interest. determined to try my luck with the game. however. I was out attempt strictly on business. I expected to was now quite dry. The Our search for Masai and the Indian were sent back while Mahina and I camp. but of for its centre-line. and gave vent to tions in his peculiar language. and led us across the rolling plains more or less in the direction in which the railway was to run. hartebeeste. taking my and being accompanied by Mahina with 303 the 1 2 -bore shot-gun. as find. and zebra. r many exclamawhich the letter I water having thus proved a failure. but which. and did not reserving that a shot. which without doubt had contained water very recently. seemed be quite certain of his way. whose name we found to be Lungow. trip. on the way we passed within easy range of herds of wildebeeste. and by another Indian carrying the necessary food and to water. A considerable number of bones lay scattered round it. made a big detour from the o 2 to . in " " rolled like a kettledrum. gazelle.xvin LIONS ON THE ATHI I PLAINS 195 In the morning rifle started off betimes. pleasure for the homeward Late in the forenoon we arrived at Lungow's pond a circular dip about eighty yards in diameter. Our Masai guide.

and told Mahina to drive the hunting knife right through his heart so as to put him quickly out of doing all pain. and seemed unable to pierce the tough hide. In this fruitless manner we covered several miles. in all direc- but the animals were much more shy than was in they had been in the morning. I them. I handed him my rifle and took the knife in order to do it myself. nothing so painful as to see an animal limping about in a crippled condition. Just then. for I singled out the biggest head and waiting a favourable at once. saw a herd of wildebeeste. dropping him ran up to the fallen beast. and with much care managed to get within three hundred yards of however. I was suddenly jumping to his by the wildebeeste For a moment he . fired at him. Just as I raised the knife to strike. and I was and I think there beginning to think that we should have to return to camp without so much as firing a shot. I moment.196 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO Game abounded it CHAP. As Mahina was I not it this as skilfully or as quickly as thought might be done." when as a matter of fact one has to move in the openstalked if it splendid gazelle. dried-up water-hole. which appeared to be dying. but the probability was that owing to the it long range would have resulted only is in a wound. startled feet. and that I vain can be called "stalking. tions. specimens of Thomson's and Grant's I might have attempted a shot once or twice.

not wish to disturb the other firing a game around us by it second shot. He the had knocked his wilde- beeste over in much was dead . as I did off. made At first . .xvm LIONS ON THE ATHI me in PLAINS 197 stood looking at way. and air. and thought it he was very keen on obtaining photographs of game. however. he was thunderstruck to see the wildebeeste jump up and come charging down in upon him. instant He sprang quickly aside. though followed up like for four or five miles. an up went the camera into the followed the the next moment by the unfortunate Indian. is Kipling's Fuzzy- Wuzzy and "'e's generally shammin' when this my friend Rawson about dead". The wildebeeste. after he had staggered for about sixty yards he seemed to revive suddenly. From I that time I lost all trace of him. about to take the picture. he took his stand-camera from the Indian who carried it and proceeded to When he was just focus it on the animal's head. and as same way. broke into his ordinary gallop and quickly rejoined the herd. I thought best just to wait. and then to my a dazed and tottery kind of amazement he turned and he moved with such a shaky and uncertain gait that I felt confident that he could only go a few yards before dropping so. To my utter astonishment. but attended with more serious results. in fact. time had an 'e's experience very similar to mine.

way towards the home "FORTUNATELY THE BRUTE FELL DEAD AFTER THIS FINAL EFFORT. wildebeeste having stuck horn right through the man's thigh and tossed him over its back. a I reddish colour moving in good distance he could to to our left front. After abandoning the chase of my wildebeeste. whatever I was.198 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO its CHAP. we had not gone far on our . leaving Rawson grateful for his escape. Fortunately the brute fell dead after this final effort. how- . had disappeared kept my eye on the spot. and before could get it my field-glasses to bear." camp when I thought I observed something of a a patch of long grass. but he was unable do so. the animal. into the grass. asked Mahina if make out what I it was.

. ! Master. sher!" ("Look. my own So we kept we drew felt nearer. the reddish object again appeared and I saw that it was nothing less ever. This time Mahina also saw what it was. I and to take no notice of him. was a fascinating sight to see how he slowly raised his massive head above the top of the grass again and gazed calmly and him. hidden as it was in the grassy thicket. the lion also twisted round and so always make a shoulder . I whispered to him to be quiet "). He answered well he kept his word. Sahib. edging up towards the beast.xviii LIONS ON THE ATHI PLAINS 199 and we gradually approached it. as he lay there grimly watching us. we shot possible but as moved. would disappear from view for a moment and it my . tried my best to follow on. to I asked Mahina in a whisper sher if if he I equal facing a charge from the should wound I where simply that and right went. there would he go also him. I therefore if circled cautiously round in order to see the back to the covert was sufficiently thin at . but apparently oblivious of his As presence. a lion "Dekko. while advice. steadily at us as we neared Unfortunately I could not distinguish the outline of his body. than the shaggy head of a lion peeping over the long grass. and called out. I watched the lion carefully out of the corner of Every now and then he eye as we closed in. . When we were about a hundred yards off.

spite of the risk which one must always run by attacking a lion at such close quarters on an open plain as flat as so in a standing position the palm of the hand . distance was. We us were now within seventy yards of the to who appeared the closer take the greater interest in we approached. he would have allowed us to depart in peace. was bent on war.200 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO full CHAP. to my horror and astonishment was joined by a lioness whose presence we had never even thought of or suspected. . Again the tip took aim. I thought he was done and for. look with which he had at and was now not give on the regarded but still he did me the impression if that he meant to charge. I on us. kept his head a half-circle. the lion turning a complete somersault over his tail. I. however. to a disgraceful miss. The . I took careful aim at his head. a bare seventy yards yet I must confess still. fully He alert . as have said. questioning I gaze. this time for a spot below of his nose. but he instantly sprang to his feet again. had first lost the sleepy us. and no doubt we had in not provoked him. and I fired. so far as could see but continued his steadfast. and again I fired with more success. lion. More astonishing the beast made not the slightest movement I did not even blink an eye. When I had described and that my found that the grass was no thinner chances of a shot had not improved.

xvin

LIONS

ON THE ATHI

PLAINS

201

Worse was still to follow, for to our dismay both made a most determined charge on us, bounding along
at a great pace

and roaring angrily as they came.
"Sahib, do sher ata hai /"
!

Poor Mahina
("

cried out,

Master, two lions are coming "), but I told him to stand stock-still and for his life not to make the
slightest

movement.

In the twinkling of an eye the

two beasts had covered about forty yards of the distance towards us. As they did not show the least sign
of stopping,

thought we had given the experiment of remaining absolutely motionless a fair trial, and was just about to raise the rifle to my shoulder as a
I

last

resort,

when
a

suddenly
fell

the
to

wounded
to

lion

stopped, staggered, and
lioness

the ground.

The
us,

took

couple

of

bounds nearer
relief
this

and

then to
for

my

unmeasured

turned to look

round

her mate,

who had by

time managed
stood,

to get to his feet again.

There they both

what growling viciously and appeared to me to be a succession of ages. The lioness then made up her mind to go back to the
lashing their tails, for

and they both stood broadside on, with their heads close together and turned towards us, snarling
lion,

in

a most aggressive manner.
or
foot just

Had
it

either of us

moved hand
probably a

then,

would,

I

am

convinced, have at once
fatal charge.

brought on another and

As

the two great brutes stood in this

position

202

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
us,
I

CHAP.

looking at

had, of course, a grand opportunity
I

of dropping both, but
to
it

confess
I

I

did not feel equal

at the

moment.

could only devoutly hope

that

they would not renew their attack, and was
let

only too thankful to

peace if they would, without any further hostility on my part.
Just
at
this

them depart
the
lion

in

juncture

seemed

to

grow

He staggered some ten yards suddenly very weak. back towards his lair, and then fell to the ground
;

the lioness followed, and lay
still

down

beside him

both

watching us, and growling savagely. After a few seconds the lion struggled to his feet again and
retreated a
little
fell

further, the lioness

him

until

he

once more.
I

A

third time the
to breathe

accompanying same

thing took place, and at last
freely,

began

more
from

as they had

now reached

the

thicket

which they had originally emerged.
I

Accordingly took a shot at the lioness as she lay beside her
I

mate, partly concealed in the long grass.
think
I

do not

but anyhow she at once made off and bounded away at a great rate on emerging into
hit her,

the open.
I

sent a few bullets after her to speed her on her

way, and then cautiously approached the wounded He was stretched out at full length on his lion.
side,

with his back towards me, but

I

could see by

the heaving of his flanks that he was not yet dead,
so
I

put a bullet

through his spine.

He

never

xvin

LIONS
after this

ON THE ATHI
;

PLAINS

203

but for safety's sake, I made no attempt to go up to him for a few minutes, and then
only after Mahina had planted a few stones on his

moved

body

just to

make
felt

sure that he was really dead.

We
paws,

both

very pleased with ourselves as

we

stood over

him and looked
clean,

at his fine head, great

and long,

sharp
in

tusks.
fine

He

was a
and

young, but full-grown lion

condition,

measured nine
tip of

feet

eight

and a half inches from

nose to

tip of tail.

My

last

shot had entered

the spine close to the
in

the body

;

the
;

first

and had lodged shot was a miss, as I have
shoulder,

already said

but the second

had caught him on

the forehead, right between the eyes.

The

bullet,

however, instead of traversing the brain, had been turned downwards by the frontal bone, through

which

it

crashed, finally lodging in the root of the
I

tongue, the lead showing on both sides.

cut

out the tongue and hung it up to dry, intending but unfortunately a vulture to keep it as a trophy
;

swooped down when my back was
carried
it

turned,

and

off.
I

From
first

the time

knocked the
fell

lion

over

until

he

staggered and

not more than a minute

could have elapsed
to

quite long enough, however,
to cover the distance
us.

have enabled him

and to

have seized one or other of

owed our

lives to the fact

Unquestionably we that we both remained

204

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
motionless
;

CHAP.

speak too highly of Mahina for the splendid way in which he Had he acted as did another stood the charge.
absolutely
I

and

cannot

gun-boy I know of, the affair might not have had so happy an ending. This gun-boy went out with
very neighbourhood, and not came across a long after our adventure.

Captain

G

- in this

G

-

lion just

as

we

did,

and wounded

it.

It

charged

down on them,
still,

but instead of remaining absolutely
fled,

the terrified gun-boy

with the result that

the lion

came

furiously on,

and poor

G

-

met

with a terrible death.

in

While Mahina was scouring the neighbourhood search of some natives to carry the skin back

camp, I took a good look round the place and found the half-eaten body of a zebra, which I
to

noticed had been killed out in the open and then

dragged into the long grass. The tracks told me, also, that all the work had been done by the lion,

and

this

set

me

thinking of the lioness.

I

accord-

ingly swept the plain with
tion in

my

glasses in the direcoff,

which she had bounded
I

and

after

some

searching

discovered

her about a mile
in

apparently lying
hartebeeste,
notice of

down

the

away, midst of a herd of

who grazed away without taking any her. I felt much inclined to follow her up
rf

but

I

was

afraid that

if

I

did so the vultures that
settle

were already hovering around would

on

my

xvm
lion

LIONS
and

ON THE ATHI

PLAINS

205

spoil the skin, for the destruction of

which

these ravenous birds are capable, even in the space of only a few minutes, is almost beyond belief. I

accordingly returned to the dead beast and sat
astride of him.
lion
I

down

had read that a

frontal shot at a

was a very risky one, and on carefully examinfor owing ing the head it was easy to see the reason to the sharp backward slope of the forehead it is
;

almost impossible for a bullet fired
reach the brain.
in this district

in this

manner

to

As

there were lots of lions about
I

and as

wanted

to

bag some more,

I

set myself to think out a plan
frontal shot

might be got rid afterwards I had an opportunity of putting my scheme into practice, happily with most excellent
results
;

whereby the risk of a of. About a fortnight

this,

however,

is

another story, which

will

be told later on.
I

next commenced to skin

my

trophy and found

it

a very tough job to perform by myself.
to

proved be a very fat'beast, so I knew that Mahina would make a few honest and well-earned rupees out of
believing that

He

him, for Indians will give almost anything for lion
fat,
it is

an

infallible

cure for rheuma-

tism and various other diseases.
the

When

at length
I

skinning

process

was

completed,

waited

impatiently for the return of Mahina,
this
It is

who had by
I

time been gone

much

longer than
I

expected.

rather a nerve-shattering thing

am

speaking

206

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
myself
with
to

CH.

xvm

for

remain absolutely alone
beside
the

for

hours on

a

vast

open plain
vultures

carcase of a dead

lion,

wheeling about above one, and with nothing to be seen or heard for It was a great miles around except wild animals.
incessantly
relief,

therefore,

when

after

a

long

wait

I

saw

Mahina approaching with half-a-dozen
naked natives
had
lost his

practically

in

his train.

It

turned out that he
it

way back
all.

to me, so that
lost

was lucky he
back

found
to

me

at

We

no time

in getting

camp, arriving there just at sundown, when my first business was to rub wood ashes into the skin

and then stretch

it

on a portable frame which

I

had

made

a few days previously.
that
night,

The camp

fire

was a

and the graphic and highly coloured description which Mahina gave to the eager circle of listeners of the way in which we slew the
big one
lion

would have made even " Bahram, that great
for his fame.

Hunter," anxious

CHAPTER XIX
THE STRICKEN CARAVAN

NOT

long after this adventure the permanent way

reached the boundary of the Kapiti Plains, where a station had to be built and where accordingly we took up our headquarters for a week or two. A

few days after we had settled down in our new camp, a great caravan of some four thousand men
arrived from the interior with luggage and loads of

regiment which was on its way down to the coast, after having been engaged in
food for a Sikh

suppressing the mutiny of the Sudanese in Uganda. The majority of these porters were Basoga, but
there were also fair numbers of

Baganda
of

(i.e.

people

of

Uganda) and of the

natives

Unyoro, and

various other tribes.

Of

course none of these wild

men

of Central Africa had either seen or heard of a
all

railway in

their

lives,

and they consequently
in

displayed

the

liveliest

curiosity

regard to

it,

crowding round one of the engines which happened

to and hazarding the wildest guesses as to its origin and use in a babel I of curious native languages. The mud in no time. and stopped railway work the time Indeed. magical. Just after this caravan had moved on we were rain-storms. and afterwards thoroughly enjoyed a short run which I had to make down the line in order to bring up some construction to material. nor did the stampede cease the whistle. at the time sounding the whistle. until shut off steam and stopped Then. o flat same The first effect was simply The whole crowd threw themselves on the ground howling with fear. becomes a mass of thick district is extraordinary. into for subjected some torrential which transformed the whole plain all a quaking bog being. and then with heads well down and arms well spread out they fled wildly in all I directions . them. and on attempting to do any walk- . so I stepped on to the footplate and blew off the steam.208 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO be standing at the station. very cautiously they began to approaching the locomotive stealthily as though it were some living monster of the jungle. their curiosity gradually over- powering return. two of their chiefs summoned up courage enough to climb on to the engine. the effect of a heavy this downpour of rain in sun-baked is which ground. of a black sub-soil. CHAP. Eventually. thought I would provide a little entertainment for them.

Now. become roaring torrents from bank to bank in an incredibly short time while for . many hours or even a few days the rivers become absolutely impassable in this land of no bridges. for otherwise a flood may come down and detain in these parts him and stream for rain his on the wrong side of the perhaps a week. so zebra up and thought that if we could surround the herd judiciously and chase the down from point to point through the exheavy ground. as quickly subside.xix THE STRICKEN CARAVAN 209 ing one slides and slips about in the slush in a most uncomfortable manner. where half an Innocent-looking dongas. On this account it is the custom of the wise traveller always to cross a river before camping. and the I ground was very boggy. rivers On leaving my tent one morning when work was to the rain. Of course when the caravan the floods ceases. I at a standstill owing noticed a great herd of zebra about a couple of miles away on the north side of the railway. some of them would soon get hausted and we should then be able to catch them. ! men could do nothing owing to the rain. my . it had long been ambition to capture one of these animals alive " " The Here is my chance so I said to myself. o o hour previously not one drop of water was to be seen. I selected for the hunt a dozen fleet-footed Indians who p . and the country once more resumes its normal sun-cracked appearance. the and dongas dry up.

while the other three were given to the Surfacing men had assisted in the hunt. and then did just what we wished them an exceptionally boggy part of the ground. After having partially surrounded the herd. whereupon the zebras galloped madly about from side to side. but did me no serious damage beyond throwIn time. flourished splendidly. to bring in them Three of the captured zebras Engineer. Two after . and who once entered with great zest into the spirit of the scheme. ing me heavily to the ground. the halfcircle of coolies began to advance with wild shouts. he once planted both his hind feet on my chest. and kicking everyone who approached him indeed. of my three unfortunately died very shortly but the third. : In way we captured no than six they were very wild and fractious. The whole expedition lasted little more than a couple of hours. but eventually \ve managed triumph to the camp where they were firmly secured. whose I kept for myself. however. giving us a great deal of trouble in getting them along. where they soon became more or less helpless. We singled out a few young ones to do made straight for and succeeded still. were employed on the earth works. . when we running them to an absolute standthrew them down and sat on their in heads this until the other men came up less with ropes. .210 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO at CHAP. biting At first he was exceedingly vicious. a sturdy two-year-old.

but one after- noon on returning to camp found. enquiry. that he had disappeared. much my ' \VE MANAGED TO BRING THEM' IN TRIUMPH TO THE CAMP. I learned from my servants that a herd ot wild zebra had galloped close by. allowing himself to be led about by a rope and head collar. Some few days after our successful sortie against P 2 . my He used to be left to graze picketed by a to long rope to a stake in the ground I ." On making annoyance.XIX THE STRICKEN CARAVAN 211 he became very tame and domesticated. and would drink from a bucket and eat from hand. and that this had so excited him that he managed to tear the picket- ing peg out of the ground and so rejoin his brethren in freedom.

but alas. the zebra. and dozens of men were left dead or dying It was a case along the roadside after each march. their simple diet in their own homes consisting almost entirely of bananas. tins of I boiled a bucketful of water. of the survival of the fittest. The ranks of the caravan were terribly decimated. doubtless caused by their having eaten food to which they were entirely a pitiable state! frightful A unaccustomed. from which they also make a most refreshing and stimulating drink. they were in the most hopeto far too weak to be able as I do any- thing at all for themselves. As soon discovered them. very little among such a number.212 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. and the poor fellows were in their epidemic of dysentery had broken out amongst them. added some condensed milk and the greater part of a bottle of brandy to it. ! with what a terrible difference All their gaiety and lightappearance heartedness was gone. while the Basoga themselves seemed quite indifferent to the sufferings of their comrades. and fed them with the mix- . the great caravan of Basoga porters re- turned from the coast on their way back to their own country in . and although he worked like a slave he could do had. Thirteen poor wretches fell out to die close to less condition my and tent . as of course it was quite impossible for the whole caravan to halt in the wilderness where neither food nor water was to be There was only one European with the party.

and were so weak as to be unable to swallow the spoonful of milk which I In the end six proved to be put between their lips. and I directions for the care of the sick Basoga. indeed. they was moved them. One or two of them. 213 ture. could hardly do even this. very grateful indeed for the care which we had taken of on.xix THE STRICKEN CARAVAN Their feeble cries for some of . The day I after I first found these stricken natives had arranged to ride on my pony for some miles in advance of the railway. on account of the enormous numbers of its stones in bed and along follow its I ordered left my I tent to me later in the day. as knew should be away all night. " Bwana. and died that night . and every hundred yards or so I passed the swollen corpse of some unfortunate porter who had fallen route . in order to make arrangements for the building of a the Stony Athi River so-called temporary bridge over a tributary of the Athi. and banks. Master "). were brought along from place to place on the top of trucks. this nourish- ment were heartrending some could only whisper. beyond all help. and then open their mouths. Bwana" ("Master. until finally they were well enough to resume their journey to Usoga. but the re- maining seven I managed to nurse into complete As our camp recovery in about a fortnight's time. My road lay along the taken by the home-returning caravan.

coveting the highly-coloured and highly-prized article. I me to camp of Here on. and callously rolled the dying to man out of it as one would unroll for a bale of goods. turned . Before very long I came up with and here I the rearguard of this straggling army. so I put spurs my pony as if scoundrel. This was too much me. it he desisted and away. making and galloped up to the to thrash him with my In a whip made of rhinoceros hide. back. who. act of was witness of as unfeeling an barbarism as can well be imagined. rolled himself up in his scarlet blanket and lay down by the roadside to die whereupon one of his companions. had him soundly theft. moment he put his hand on his knife and half or it drew from its sheath. thrashed for his brutality and After performing justice. though sullenly enough.214 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. out and died by the wayside. seized one end of the blanket. A poor wretch. I some little distance handed him over to the officer in charge. however. utterly unable to go a step further. the main further and I then marched him in front of the caravan. that would fire if he did not once go back and replace the blanket round his dying comrade. kiboko. This he eventually did. On . I this little act of retributive pushed on towards the Stony Athi. but on rifle seeing me dis- mount and point my tried to run at him. am glad to say. I I made clear to him by at signs.

WHICH BOWLED THE ANTELOPE OVER STONE-DEAD. and my glasses discovered that it was a finefew looking buck with a capital pair of horns. Basoga from the caravan had followed me. I tuft and crawled along in the I got near enough for a safe shot. over stone-dead.xix THE STRICKEN CARAVAN way while still 215 the I not far from the caravan camp by spied a Grant's gazelle in the distance. doubtless the aid of A in the hope of obtaining meat. which bowled the antelope Scarcely had he dropped when the Basoga swooped down on him. and devoured huge chunks of the raw and still . of which they are " I GOT NEAR ENOUGH FOR A SAFE SHOT. ripped him open. so." inordinately fond . wriggled from tuft to folds of the ground until eventually handing them my pony.

two of them willingly agreed to go on with me and carry the head and haunch of the I gazelle. a great wart-hog suddenly jumped up almost at my horse's feet. gave them. morning I started early on my return The next to railhead. and who were all good Mohammedans. I dismounted at . with my tent just at this juncture. lapping up the warm blood in the In return for the meat which palms of their hands. lutely dry. and as he had very fine and exceptionally long once and bagged him too. I at camped for the night Athi. were thoroughly disgusted the sight of this very hideous-looking pig. and promptly cut off the head but my own people. become a roaring torrent if rain should set in it would therefore be necessary to span it with a forty-foot girder in order to prevent constant "washouts" during the rainy season. but I was necessary for the At the time the river was absowhat that it knew might at any moment . and of made my notes temporary bridge.216 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. When we I had got very nearly to the place where intended to camp for the night. close to on the banks of the Stony where the railway was to cross. The Basoga were delighted at this. quivering flesh. On my way I had to pass the left. who arrived tusks. camp which the Basoga caravan had just but the spectacle of about a dozen newly-made graves which the hyaenas had already torn open caused me to put spurs to .

and the muscular long contortions after death throughout his body gave me a very vivid idea of the tremendous squeezing power possessed by these Skinning him was an easy process. railhead I When through had almost got back happened to notice a huge serpent stretched out on the grass. warming himself. unfortunately peared. but reptiles. notice of me as I appeared to take little cautiously approached. the his beautiful colouring soon to disap- old gold turning white and the bright green to lustreless black. and was He I probably drowsy and sated with a heavy meal. WART-HOG .XIX THE STRICKEN CARAVAN horse and to gallop as fast as possible I 217 my to the pestilential spot. his skin of old gold and bright green sparkling brilliantly in the sunshine. shot him through the head as he lay.

that this was anything but a safe place in which . so I had to make make one or two expeditions various to this river in order to to select a suitable place for the crossing and other I arrangements. where our for a great camp was pitched few days while the temporary bridge was being thrown across the dry Still another temporary bridge bed of the stream. Each day railhead crept a mile or so further across the Plains. and on April 24 we reached the Stony Athi River.CHAPTER XX A DAY ON THE ATHI RIVER IN spite of all our difficulties. when on looking round to see I was very much surprised two European ladies sitting under the shade As I knew of some trees on the river bank. On one of these occasions was busy attending to the pitching of my tent after arriving at the Athi late in the evening. had to be arranged for the Athi itself. rapid progress continued to be made with the line. which was some eight miles further on.

they had I next morning to resume their started out and made a search up and left down the river for the proper position for my temporary bridge. which of course made the by roads bad and the tents about double their usual weight. but there was as yet no sign of the little caravan. The men every moment with of fact In it were expected the porters. When journey.CH. They were waiting but their camp equipment had been considerably delayed porters some very heavy rain. It is indeed wonderful what dangers and hardships these delicately nurtured ladies will face cheerfully in order to carry out their self-appointed mission. xx A DAY ON THE ATHI RIVER 219 to rest. owing to the number of lions about. and as a matter party did not arrive until Jong after nightfall. I chose the most suitable and pitched my tent close to it for a night or two while I made the necessary calculations for . I went them to see if I could be of any assistance. up to and found that they were American missionaries journeying to their stations further inland. After a thorough examination of all the possible situations. was perhaps a great and as blessing that I happened to be there the ladies were both very tired and hungry. I these circumstances it . of the for their to arrive. was glad to be able to place my tent at their disposal and to offer them as good a dinner as it was possible to provide in the wilds.

and in laying this out with to difficulty. so I started to work them out for myself and soon discovered a serious misprint. with grassy glades here and there among the trees. while in others about a quarter of a mile wide.220 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO The CHAP. carrying out the work. but always with the same result. Eventually I came to the conclusion that there must be some mistake in the table of angles from which I had been working. when at last everything came out accurately and After I to my this satisfaction. I proceeded to lay out the curve again. The which runs almost due north here. temporary diversion of the line. crossing on which I had decided had sharp curve in I be approached by a somewhat the line. and is fringed all along its course by a belt of thorny fringe is hardwood trees. and accordingly determined to try my luck after lions had pegged out up-stream river towards the source of the Athi. I thought I richly deserved a few hours' play. Every now and again. before taking a turn eastward to the Indian Ocean- forms part of the western boundary of the Athi Plains. In some it places is this quite narrow. too. . experienced considerable as for some reason or other I could not the theodolite last make the peg on the curve come anywhere near the tangent-point where the curve should link up I with the straight. repeated the whole operation time after time. This being rectified in my calculations.

and after a hasty lunch off we started up the bank of the first. nearly always covered over with tall reeds are and elephant grass. ever been hunted previous to my time. I decided again. I decided to use as a rule I my pony on foot. I walked for some distance at partly because the I ground was very stony and lion partly because thought a likely might suddenly bound out of some beaters this . I As felt rather tired after my morning's work. this expedition. river. while along- the banks frequent patches of stunted bushes. shouting and halloing with all their might as they advanced through the scrub and undergrowth.xx A DAY ON THE ATHI RIVER 221 the stream itself widens out into a broad stretch of water. and even of man the . which struck me as very likely places for the king of beasts to sleep in after having drunk at the river. while I rode . to way mount patches in front of the but after having gone about six miles in without adventure of any kind.nothing he came to except man ever disturbs him. lions in this part of the country for they had rarely if had as yet no fear. At this time the beaters were in line about a hundred yards behind me. although went on Mahina and half-a-dozen accompany left natives to beat the belt of trees were to me. I had noticed that a lion after having eaten and drunk well. would throw himself down quite without caution in the first shady spot of course.

fancied I saw a movement among the bushes and pulled up suddenly to watch the spot. Before he could reach the further thicket. taking advantage of every bit of cover and keeping a sharp look-out for the wounded animal as we crept from tree to tree. some fifty or sixty yards to my left. Just as the men got up to a rather thicker piece of I jungle than usual. quickly followed by another.222 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. fired. when to my utter amazement out sprang a huge black-maned lion. before one of the men. well to the flank so as to be ready for any emergency. and was just about to pull the trigger. the deep growl that of a serious The beaters and now advanced with great care. which had evidently been worn . leading apparently to a kind of gap in the bank of the river. Fully a quarter of an hour must have elapsed in this slow yet exciting search. second lioness as off she galloped past. and had the tells I satisfaction of hearing hit. called out that he could see the lion awaiting our approach. I however. The next moment out bounded a lioness. Almost at the same I moment found blood marks left by the wounded animal. with his head just visible in a large in bed of rushes only a short distance front of where I then was. making all haste after his mates. I Throwing myself seized my rifle to get a shot at the my pony. and a little ahead of the line. who raced straight across the open strip into the next patch of jungle. but did not dismount.

if On my calling out that the lion was done for. my enemy. I saw that it was no use to attempt to climb as the prevented continued me overspreading foliage would have from obtaining any view ahead so I . It was as he had suddenly been hit with a sledge-hammer. crouched the but the native directed luckily first who had seen him and I who had very me to where he was. And lion there. my slow advance with a fast-beating heart. fired plump at the side of his head. crept steadily forward and from the shelter of a friendly tree behind the bole of which I hid myself.xx A DAY ON THE ATHI RIVER 223 down by a rhino going to and fro to drink. to remain behind . and as noiselessly as possible I slipped from cover to cover in my endeavour to obtain a peep over the bank. raised my rifle cautiously. not twenty yards from watching. and steadying the barrel against the trunk of the tree and standing on I tip-toe in order to get a better view. not knowing where the huge brute was and expecting every moment that he would charge out at me over the bank from his reedy refuge. for he fell over instantly and lay like a log. by the up then I had heard no movement on I the part of at last. Emboldened fact that to till a certain extent. me. a tree. I accordingly made for this with the greatest caution. without making the slightest sound. the . except Mahina. however. I was able to look over the bank. ordering all the men. not me.

source. they did in a not seem to care in the slightest and twinkling had the dead bank. we commenced was about skin my I I fine trophy. and gave chase to with my rushed through the long grass but a nearer view showed me nothing more than a huge As I wanted the tusks. my day's sport was not yet over. might as were very fine ones. lion lifted I Before I from the reeds on to the dry allowed anything further to be done. I fired but only badly hipped him so I ran up as fast as I could and at ten This time I missed him entirely. however. CHAP. as the two beaters lionesses were probably still close at hand. Once indeed felt it convinced all : saw one. which I noticed wart-hog. yards fired again. but no I I followed lions up the river almost crossed that I its more my it path. decided to Mahina other finish the operation. came running up shouting with joy and although I warned them to be careful. beaten out : had the patch of rushes thoroughly but as no traces of the lionesses could to be found. while went on ahead my luck either with more lions or with any that might to game come my way. : and was puzzled to account for my looked at my back sight and found accident it failure until I that I by some had got raised and that up. While .224 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO . let When to try this half done. another shot quickly put the Still wounded animal out of pain. had the 200- yards sight On rectifying this.

another occasion I find On had was fortunate enough to get a it successful snapshot of an impala just after and the photograph gives a very good idea of what mine was like." and on reaching my prize I was delighted to that its horns were much above the average. been shot by a friend. the beautiful animal being bagged without much trouble. I caught sight of a graceful-looking antelope in the distance.XX A DAY ON THE ATHI RIVER 225 rambling back through the trees. closer saw that it was an My stalk was crowned with success. and on cautiously approaching impala. Q . 'A SUCCESSFUL SNAPSHOT OF AN IMI'ALA JUST AFTER IT HAD BEEN SHOT.

" was his reply " . " answered " Yes. On my way back I happened called out. "why. I made all haste back where I had left Mahina skinning the lion. so that could not find in my heart to give him the severe scolding he deserved for having Next morning I packed up returned without me. I my fired several shots without response . my trophies and returned to my work at railhead. reach. he said." heavens. home long after dark and there I found Mahina and sound." I replied. but to astonishment he was nowhere to be seen. no. all and the only conclusion I could had returned I come to was that he to the camp at the temporary bridge. and shouted myself hoarse. " he left before shot " it." " I asked. " whatever do you mean " Didn't you say. to meet one of the " other engineers. "that you heard I had got a fine lion ? " No. a fine line for the tem- porary bridge over the river. day before. As to was now growing late. but how on earth did you hear of " it ? Oh " ! "Good I Reynolds told me." full : My thoughts being I of " my I adventures of the did . with the I lion's skin already it pegged out to dry." ." ? Shot " ? he exclaimed. who Hallo ! I hear you have got a fine line.226 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO it CHAP. ing safe accordingly pushed on.

he agreed that it was quite fine enough monopolise my thoughts and else. and when he saw my to trophy. prevent from thinking of anything Q 2 .XX A DAY ON THE ATHI RIVER 227 We both laughed heartily at the misunderstanding. which was being carried by my man me just behind me.

but tribe. remnant of the still more especially the a fine. but as a rule they keep away from the railway. and when on the war-path were the terror of the whole country Laikipia Plateau. from the furthest limits of itself. Uganda latterly to Mombasa the Their numbers have become greatly men. quite correct. THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES A FEW Masai may still be seen on the Athi Plains. at one of his " royal residences. itself. as whenever he was asked an awkward . He was affability presenting me with a spear and shield as a memento of the occasion but he had the reputation of being a most wily old potentate. Lenana. lithe. and I found this . clean-limbed people. I While have an was stationed in the Plains managed to inter- view with the chief." a kraal near Nairobi. the majority of the tribe being now settled on the Formerly they were by far the most powerful native race in East Africa.CHAPTER XXI. are I reduced through famine and small-pox.

CH. wonderfully well-organised of the warriors (elmorani] . very badly. Lenana's nephew and a combat with the spear and play with their long keen and both made fine blades. xxi THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES nudge answer his 229 question. he would Prime Minister and I command him to for him. A MASAI CHIEF. managed to induce him and his wives and children to sit for their photograph. which more than once penetrated the oppon- ent's shield. I also got warrior to engage in shield. and they made a very fine group indeed but unfortunately the negative turned out . The Masai have a The military system.

nothing of any kind was left it was their alive. but were I always quite friendly alone. kraal was captured killed all the male defenders were with the spear. Once to or twice I met detachments out on they these expeditions. never made slaves or took prisoners.230 tribe THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO must attend to strictly to their CHAP. and . even was practically rule. for the Masai are not an agricultural people their and their wealth consists entirely in herds of cattle. however. As they thus live entirely on cattle. Curiously enough they do not hunt game. and are not allowed until after their marry or to smoke or to drink term of active service is completed. duties. sheep and goats. path. indeed. and it is also a common custom for them to drink daily a pint or so of blood taken from a live bullock. sudden raids were constantly being made by them on the weaker tribes in the country and when a . though Before the advent of British me. although the country abounds with it. The object of these raids was. while the women were put to death during the night with clubs. instantly and proud boast that where a party of elmorani had passed. of course. to capture live stock. The Masai. suspended from a raw-hide waist-belt their and they certainly look very ferocious in weird-looking head-dress when on the war. Besides the spear and shield they generally carry a sword or knobkerrie. but live principally on beef and milk .

Being also whom they to call N'gai. but is this term is applied anything which beyond their understanding. of the customs of the Perhaps the most curious .XXI THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES 231 as cattle cannot thrive without not unnatural to find that good pasture. it is they have a great reverence for grass. They also worship a Supreme MASAI WARRIORS.

232 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO is CHAP. ful The Masai it. Masai the extraction of the two front teeth from It is the lower jaw. I and give it only for what it is worth but : whatever the reason for the custom. MASAI I re- WOMAN member once being out with a Masai one day when we came across the bleached skull of a long defunct member at of his tribe. when lockjaw was very prevalent amonoand it the was found that still if these teeth were pulled out food could be taken. e This xplanation seems scarcely sa tisfactory or sufficient. at a said that this habit originated time tribe. the absence of these two teeth constitutes a most distinct ive de nt f ying i i mark. of course easily recognisable as such by the absence of the proper teeth. spat upon once plucked a handand then placed it very . of grass.

XXI THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES . Formerly the Masai used to spit in the face as a mark of great friendship. was done. he said. Another very common custom amongst them is . conscientiously to answer him in the affirmative. I MASAI GIRLS. 233 carefully within the skull to avert evil this from himself. The same man asked me among many other questions if my country was am afraid I was unable nearer to God than his. but nowadays like most other native races they have adopted our English fashion of shaking hands.

are often almost completely encased with are very fond of covering these rings. rings. little the men wear according to fancy. which I should think must be very . and by hanging to it pieces of chain. or a little round tin canister. beads. indeed. then pierced and decorated in various ways by sticking through it a piece of wood two or three inches in diameter. while the women themselves with large Their limbs. bells on their ankles to give notice of their approach. or MASAI WOMEN. bunches of brass-headed Nearly all nails. quantities of iron or copper wire. that of distorting the lobe of the ear it by stretching It is until it hangs down quite five or six inches.234 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP.

XXI THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES : 235 heavy and uncomfortable but no Masai woman considers herself a lady of fashion without them. the Masai do not bury their dead. . as they consider this custom to be prejudicial to the soil the bodies are simply carried some little . and the more she possesses the higher does she stand in the social scale. As a rule. N'DEROBBO BOY.

reserved only a great over whose N'DEROBBO OY.236 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO left CHAP. for The honour chief. WITH COLI. remains a large across one of mound is also raised. but found and opened possibly I it nothing : did not pursue my search deep enough .ABVS MONKEY. I came these mounds one day near Tsavo very carefully. distance from the village and to be devoured of burial by birds and wild is beasts.

In general. are a race of They are seldom to be in met with.XXI THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES 237 into the earth. the Masai are an uprace. N DEROBBO GIRL. and keep . or less serfs of the Masai are the Wa N'derobbo. who. right and honourable savage and it is a great pity that they are gradually dying out. however. unlike their over-lords. More hunters. as they hide away caves and thickets.

238 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. moving from place to place following the Not long ago I saw a few of them in the : neighbourhood of the Eldama Ravine but these were more or less civilised. and the girls. but Like the latter. who were quite graceful. constantly game. They also frequently carry a rudely made two-edged short sword in a sheath. in is slung round the waist by a belt of raw filed to Their front teeth are a sharp point all the same manner as those of nearly the other native tribes of East Africa. They live in little villages composed of beehive huts and always find. they not nearly so good-looking. Unlike the Masai. with the exception of the Masai. and in the Kenya Province. however. though of a different shape their principal weapon. and was much amazed to notice what labour and ingenuity had been expended on its construc- managed after a great deal of difficulty all-fours tion. the Wa Kikuyu have a . to On one occasion I and crawling on make my way into one of these kraals. shield. is the bow and poisoned arrow. use the spear and . district from Nairobi to the Kedong River. which hide. dwell the Wa Kikuyu. situated in the very thickest patches of forest that they can and their cattle kraals are especially strongly built and carefully hidden. had abandoned the native undress costume In the for flowing white robes. who are similar to the Masai in build.

sweet potatoes. flour is made). and tobacco. . and grow crops of kind of native grain from which WA KIKUYU.xxi THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES good m'tama idea (a 239 fairly of agriculture. sugar-cane.

Captain Haslem. finding Kikuyu country and as he was keenly charge of interested in about the tropical diseases from which the animals suffered. of being a very cowardly and treacherous and they have undoubtedly committed some very cruel deeds.240 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CHAP. murdered by some members of this tribe. The superstitious Wa Kikuyu were fully convinced that . was barbarously WA KIKUYU. A friend of mine. in He left me to go up out to the the transport. The Wa Kikuyu have the reputation people. with whom I lived for a few months at Tsavo. he made it his custom all to dissect the bodies of those that died.

For my part. all and most anxious As is the case with of the other African races. On the contrary I found them well-behaved and intelligent to learn." I had about four hundred had been painted to me. of them working at one thing or another at Nairobi and never had any trouble with them.XXI THE MASAI AND OTHER TRIBES 241 by this he bewitched their cattle. So instigated no doubt by the all-powerful witch-doctor killed they treacherously I him. however. found them not nearly so black as they "THE WOMEN OF THE \VA KIKUYU CARRY THE HEAVY LOADS. the women Wa Kikuyu do the manual labour of R . which at the time were dying in scores from rinderpest.

the Kavirondo are the most interesting. the bundles being held in position on their back by a strap passing round the forehead. Notwithstanding this some of them are quite pleasant looking. a bead or two here and there . simple people. do not object to being photo- graphed. are an industrious. Of They to little is the other tribes to be met with in this part of the world.242 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CH. and once they have overcome their fear of the European. about the best of the East African . They are clothed (to use Mark Twain's expression) in little but a smile. but then that scarcely considered a sin in the heart of Africa. devoted a agriculture and hospitable in the extreme addicted to thieving. perhaps. xxi the village and carry the heavy loads for their lords and masters. being considered ample raiment are modest in their nevertheless they ways and are on the whole tribes.

Brock. accordingly. I Of course I was always ready should be delighted for a hunt when it was said I possible for " me we were held up to get " away. as there be was a great deal of miscellaneous done. I could R 2 . in we had settled down One day not long our new camp. I was friend Dr. and that I should trot out for his benefit one of the local lions. our headquarters remained established for after some little time.CHAPTER XXII LIFE HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY ON May work to 12 railhead reached the Athi River. joined quite unexpectedly by my who had shared wagon by one of the exciting adventure with in me at Tsavo the night we were attacked the man-eaters. and Shortly he suggested that we should go for a shooting expedition on the morrow. where. and as just at the time by the Athi River. enough was consequently most anxious after his arrival. so far not been fortunate the goods- Now to Brock had lion. to bag a do so.

manage a day filled So we made the usual preparations for a day's absence from camp our water-bottles with tin of sardines in tea. We should thus have a better chance of catching one of the lords of the plain as he returned from his nightly depredations to the kindly shelter of the tall grass river. it (hunting) was This request sleepily granted. and honest and pleasant-looking. in the world. one of was my Indian servants. As made the differ- ence us. and possible to get there if by daybreak. lithe and active. put in his head through the at my tent door and asked leave to accompany the I " Sahibs" the morning so that he might see what shikar like. and just as dozing off to sleep. for if my shikar would in next day. he had not accompanied all probability have ended disastrously He was a very dusky- coloured young Pathan about twenty years of age. I and rushes which fringed the banks of the We therefore retired to rest early.244 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO off quite easily. and warned the to "boys" who were early start. it camp. as lions lay I accompany us I as beaters to be ready before dawn. decided to make wanted a very knew that the most I likely place for some distance away. looked care- fully to our rifles and ammunition. put a loaf of bread and a our haversacks. CHAP. . thinking that could make little difference whether in all he came with us or stayed behind things turned out. however. slit Roshan Khan.

breakfasted by candle light and We of the managed as it to get several miles on our Athi before daylight. line. this time and was was the reason why he stuck so close to me throughout the hunt. Brock. He came across at I once and started off towards the herd. most interesting and exciting work all the same. though we advanced through many patches of rushes and long It was grass likely to conceal our expected quarry. order we trudged steadily forward for a couple of miles without coming across anything. as the guest. We had just beaten through a most hopeful-looking covert without success and had come out on to a beautiful open grassy glade which stretched away for some distance ahead of us. when I noticed a big herd of wildebeeste browsing quietly I some distance to our right. indeed. while close behind Roshan Khan followed In this me with the day's provisions.xxu HOW ROSHAN KHAN He much SAVED MY LIFE for 245 as Pathans go. bison-like antelopes. while sat . Brock also wanted a wildebeeste. thoroughly way towards dawn. besides having a touching faith in my prowess in shikar probably. and pointed out the weirdthat knew looking. as we never knew but that a lion might the next moment jump up at our very feet. being placed in the most likely position for a shot. As soon we extended in the source was Dr. had been my "boy" : some attached to me. so I whistled softly to him.

"What ") does " ? the " Bwana Makubwa (" Great Master desire Simba" ("Lions"). the leader of the party eagerly asked Swahili. said I. you many. On coming in nearer." he replied. Sahib. He made really a beautiful difficult still which was rendered by the open nature of the very country. five tall. shenzi ata hain /" " ! (" Look. I " How far away are they asked. " I will show "Come. expecting every moment to hear the sound of Brock's rifle. " M'bali kidogo (" A little distance "). when Roshan Khan suddenly exclaimed excitedly : " Dekko. slim Masai approaching spear each carrying six-foot right hand. and follow I was just about to him up and find out how things were going. came the stereotyped reply. in the least the savages are coming ). Some time elapsed I still sat without a shot. the wildebeeste quickly noticed his and waited. but approach and kept steadily moving on. Sahib. on as the Indians called the natives of the interior . I was not alarmed at this somewhat all startling announcement." filled This " me " ? with interest at once. or savages a and looking in in round Indian his I saw file. . of Africa shenzi. down watch stalk. however. until at last they disappeared over one of the gentle rises which are such a feature of the Athi Plains. the proceedings.246 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO to CHAP.

" After a " time Where are the lions ? This again asked. " but could see no sign of him. and called out to the Masai to know where his lions were but he . also saw some suspicious-looking thing at the foot of one of the big trees. the mbali kidogo proved a good distance in this case. and off we started. I which completely hid pulled up short . and pointing to a clump of trees just ahead. As usual. he extended his spear in a most dramatic : manner. I told the Masai to lead the way. I began to get impatient at the long tramp.xxn I HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY LIFE 247 immediately had a good look round for Brock. casting little I keen glances ahead. Master . however. so. a low and closer at the object made me look aroused I growl which had first sinister my suspicions." exclaimed " Look. but came to the conclusion that it was only a growth of some kind projecting from the trunk. vouchsafed me no answer and continued to walk steadily on. lion peering out from behind the trunk of the his body. and at once caught sight I of a lioness trotting off behind the bushes. I looked. I was soon to be undeceived. in case the " lions should get many away in the meantime. it To my surprise and delight saw that was the head of a huge black-maned tree. there are the lions. for as I started to run towards the trees in order to cut off the fast disappearing lioness from a stretch of rushes for which she was making. over two miles Indeed.

he kept his head perfectly still. gazing It was only when the great mouth me. looking. and on looking over . and talking and gesticulating This gave at once me fifty a splendid chance for a shoulder shot at about yards' distance. had almost got beyond the surprise stage where lions were concerned yet I must admit that I was thoroughly startled and Now by this time I . CHAP. For a few seconds we stood thus and looked again and made not get a fair shot at him from where with I then he growled As I could off after the lioness. but at followers. brought to a full stop in the middle of my race by seeing no less than four more lionesses jump up from the covert which the lion had just left.248 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO at him. and stared Although he was not seventy difficult yards away from me. low bounds. but the fourth stood broadside on. I ran all my might for a point of vantage from which might have a better chance of bagging him as he passed. at each other . so after I knelt fired taking careful aim. my who by this time were grouped together excitedly. yet owing to the nature of the background especially as steadily at it was very to make him out. down The and dis- lioness appeared from sight instantly. not at me. I stood. In the twinkling of an eye three of them had disappeared after their lord in long. opened in an angry snarl that I could see plainly what he really was.

shouted to some of the men to remain behind and at watch her. I did .xxn HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY I LIFE 249 the top of the grass saw that my shot had told. apparently deliberating should return to her rescue. and had probably I stopped several times to see what I indeed the men. a run to try feared that the check with once more the lioness might have lost him to me altogether. I viciously. where he was half hidden by some low bushes. wjiile I set off I to catch up the relief lion. as she was on her back. who could see him afterwards told was up all to .000 feet above sea-level. running towards him. Fortunately he was travelling leisurely. however. he took up his station under a tree. leaves one very breathless at the end of it. my had not made off very quickly. which. Here he stood. he made whether he quite a long halt. watching my at vent to his anger every movement and giving my presence in low. at an altitude of more than 5. Evidently. and was delighted him fast but I had I . clawing the air and growling As she looked to me to be done for. but to He soon caught sight of him again. he had decided that discretion was the better part of valour. threatening growls. me that when he heard the growl of rage from the lioness after she was shot. the time. above which the lion perceived When me only his head showed. to find that still to was gaining on run about two hundred I yards at my best pace.

shot. about head run. but in of the risk I would not have missed it for the . so I called up one of the men to stay and watch the . keenly anxious to finish him off before he could charge out and cover the short distance which separated us. I was confident the brute was dead. and if there had been another tree close by. not at like the look of him. . As a matter for of fact. taking as steady an aim as was possible in I the circumstances. and such a succession of angry roars and growls of the bushes that I came up out and felt was fairly startled. that it was all could . pulled the trigger. there was no shelter so. do to keep the sight on the fierce-looking target and I thought to myself. as I of any kind at hand meant to I him at all costs. as the rifle barrel wobbled about. I therefore fired half a dozen shots into the bushes at the spot where I imagined he lay. I sat down where have a try was. and all was still.250 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO all CHAP. " If will I don't knock him over with the and then first he be out of these bushes and down on I me like greased lightning It know what to expect. I should certainly have scrambled up it into safety before attempting to fire. however. Instantly the shaggy head disappeared from view. and covered his great with and was my rifle. world so. and soon the growling and commotion ceased." spite was a most exciting moment. my arms were so I so breathless after my I shaky. sixty yards from him.

to find the man had told to watch him still I on guard. she made good her the reeds. to making for a clump of rushes close Unfortunately she broke out at the most unfavourable spot from my point of view. while I took up my position on one side. found that To my my intense vexation. The line of natives shouting their native cries and striking their spears together soon disturbed her. By signal I ordered them to advance in line on the thicket in which the lioness had just taken refuge. at Brock should arrive. while speed jumpover such rocks and bushes as came in my way ing to have a shot at a lioness that was still in sight. and I had consequently to wait until she got almost to the edge of the rushes. so as to obtain a good shot when she broke covert. had joined the sentry had deserted his post and . however. and out she sprang into the open. as the river. where I decided to leave her . expecting. now retraced my steps towards the spot where I had shot the I lion.xxn HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY LIFE I 251 place. of course. Whether or not I hit her then I cannot say escape into until I any rate. as when one to spring hunting from nowhere in these plains natives in the most mysterious in the manner. and attach themselves to one obtaining hope of some portion of the kill. some of the natives masked my fire. again rushed off at full By seem this time my followers is numbered about thirty men.

and On getting near I very pleased and excited. but that he still breathed. so jungle into began a systematic search. both Indians and natives. by any chance he might not be dead but they paid little heed to the warning. having become frightened of tell I by himself. I to I have a look and went up shouted to them as hurried along to be careful and not to go too near. dividing the strips. but I had no intention of losing so a trophy. had more courage or at the beast. . curiosity. asked if the lion was dead. was not so easy as might be thought the chase after the lioness had taken us some distance from where I had shot him. rather. and by the time I got up. it about similar to that under which he really a very difficult matter to hit was upon the right out joyfully that place. . however. and thus going over the whole place thoroughly. He was . At last one of the lion men sang at the he had found the same time running away from the spot as hard as ever he could. The task of finding him.252 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO men left CHAP. other of the party. gesticulating wildly and chattering each in his all own language. I when The I result his dis- could not where lay the lion which believed to fine be dead . A number of those nearest to him. obedience was that now the dead lion or. some half-dozen of them were in case gathered in a group at the lion's tail. and as there were numbers of trees fell. and was told that he was nearly so.

he suddenly diabolical ferocity. however. with fury. was not more than The instant the lion rose. who had still remained I close behind me. for flanks heaved with each respiration still absolutely with all the men but as he lay jabbering within a . as if became possessed of a With a great roar he sprang to . I view. belief. . his feet.xxii HOW ROSHAN KHAN full I SAVED MY LIFE I 253 lying at length on his side. me. For a moment or two I stood with the group of natives. and as I stepped back I fired. for as took a step backwards. three paces away from him. he were quite unhurt his eyes blazed and his lips were drawn well back. a way I hope never When this perilous situation so I unexpectedly developed itself. I almost trod on Roshan Khan. and when saw him I at close quarters tell. He still breathed regularly. in exposing his tusks and teeth to witness again. as his admiring him. Fortunately for had approached the lion's head with my rifle The impact ready. I assumed that he was on the point of death and unable to rise. and made I for the nearest trees with one exception. keeping my eye on the infuriated animal. yard of him. all the men fled as if the Evil One himself were after them. Possessed with this very foolishly allowed my curiosity to run away with my caution. and stepped round to have a The moment I came into his look at his head. was more delighted than can he was indeed a very fine specimen.

gave chase instead to the yelling Roshan Khan having thus unwittingly rescued me from my perilous position. delaying him for a second or so as before. it if this were possible. Help came from an unexpected muzzle of my and this and unconscious quarter.254 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO him back on his CHAP. I In far less time than takes to tell the story. or because of my over-anxiety " to save my boy ". had swung round rifle after . and suddenly fled for his screaming and shrieking with all his might. he fugitive. sight of something darting away from him diverted and following his the lion's attention from me. Beyond all question this movement saved me. it now became my turn to do all I could to save him. I missed him completely. but in an he was up again and coming for me so quickly that I had not even time to raise my rifle to my shoulder. natural instinct. and saw the bullet raise the dust at the heels of a . of the "303 bullet threw just as he haunches was in the act of springing. for the life. as I was almost within his clutches. levelled my and fired but whether because of the speed at which he was going. He the was up again like rifle . and again time I at thought that nothing on earth could save me. the pursuing lion. for just at this moment Roshan Khan seemed all at once to critical realise the danger of the situation. but fired point blank at him from my instant hip. lightning.

and made me roar with laughter. he dropped in the middle of what would otherwise assuredly have been the fatal spring bowled over with a broken shoulder. convulsed with uncontrollable mirth. Just at moment. indeed. the of the sight brute his left youth caught shoulder. if Roshan Khan was lion all as in I was not sure whether the had succeeded mauling him or not. however. was he able a glance at to spare to cast beneath. and seemed hopeless terrified save poor Roshan this Khan from over his clutches. and with a deep roar he fell back full length on the grass. I then looked round to see right. the magazine. but now it loaded again from the lion was within a spring to expect to of his prey. As the lion turned to follow him. and providentially made a quick swerve to the right. and just as he had Roshan Khan within striking distance and was about to seize him. This gave me time to run up and give him a final shot. The sight that met my eyes turned tragedy into comedy in an instant. For there was Roshan Khan. indeed. earnestly bent on getting to the very topmost branch as quickly as ever he could climb . stone-dead.xxii HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY LIFE Like lightning I 255 flying Masai. was so utterly absurd that I half-way up a thorn tree. not a moment. what "was happening His puggaree had been torn off by one . he came broadside on to me. it threw myself down on the grass and rolled over and over.

between himself and the dead could stop laughing. Ta. their wild from the resuscitated and crowded round dead body in the highest spirits. he had terrified. especially. THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO . until he had reached the very top of . duced to and even then he could scarcely be income down again. Ta " and cracking his fingers to represent the rifle-shots. Poor fellow. Finally the whole audience roared with delight when another tree bolted as fast as he could to Roshan Khan's after him. been thoroughly and little wonder. The Masai. There was no stopping him. and his long white cotton gown was torn to ribbons in his mad endeavour to put as great a distance as possible lion. indeed. I As soon him to as I called out to come down. shouting " Ta. who immediately ran backwards just as I had done. My shelter followers now began various to of the trees emerge from the and bushes where after they had flight concealed themselves lion. One played the part of the lion and jumped growling at a comrade. and waved gracefully in the breeze a fancy waistcoat adorned another spiky branch. but quite the tree in vain.256 thorn. some three or four of them beginning at once to act the whole adventure. seemed delighted at the way in which he his had been defeated. with the pseudo lion roaring of these proceedings At the end up came . CHAP. and to my surprise and amusement proved themselves excellent mimics.

when he heard full story of the adventure. me even more lucky than he Our next which I business was to go back to the lioness first had shot and left for dead. for I where stood. and as had no wish the knoll. tree. he rightly considered had first thought. when.xxii HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY LIFE who had been firing. I suddenly came upon the ungainly animal in a hollow. more Our only other adventure was with a stolid old rhino. You are the wards. Like her alive mate. 257 Brock. Separated by about a hundred yards or so. she was still very much when to a we reached neighbouring her. we were walking over the undulating ground a short distance from the river. Here see no our efforts to turn her out failed. however. attracted to the place by the to sound of the see first He was much astonished a lucky beggar " ! my fine dead " lion lying stretched out. to shoot made a dash for cover round On reaching s . on gaining the top of a gentle rise. and his After- remark was. who gave me rather a fright and induced Brock to indulge in some lively exercise. so we to reluctantly abandoned the chase and were fated lions that day. and went on to the rushes where the second lioness had taken cover. so I stalked carefully I up from whose shelter the finishing shot. We then left gave her Mahina and the other men all to skin the two beasts. It jumped I as it lay wallowing to its feet instantly I and came it.

he turned to see how pursuer was behind.258 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO rise. but confident that Brock. . and then. well satisfied with the day's outing. where we found that the invaluable Mahina had accordingly trophies. suddenly made off in the opposite direction as hard as he could go. When in he got about half-way to the tree. We of made our way back camp with our of us. felt thought would be a pretty close thing. failing (I suppose) to understand it. his rifle flying from his grasp. would manage far his off. but to my intense relief the old rhino I stopped dead when he saw the catastrophe which had taken place. in in putting on his best pace an endeavour stood to reach the shelter of a tree which off. and raced for dear life to the tree without ever looking round. in expected the great brute to be on him a moment. It was a most comical sight. and I sat on the rise and for the second time that day laughed till my sides ached. the top of the the rhino winded its and once changed Brock lost no time at direction my companion and made for him. and to my horror fell head over heels. to pull it who was very active. In the meantime Brock had got to his feet again. however. After this we returned to the scene of my morning's adventure. all finished skinning the to two lions. and doing so put his foot in a hole in the ground. some distance while I I sat down and it watched the exciting race. with perhaps the exception Roshan Khan. CHAP.

s 2 .xxii HOW ROSHAN KHAN SAVED MY LIFE afterwards I 259 Whenever I wanted to chaff this " boy ". Sir "). Sahib " (" Never again. had only to ask whether he would like to come and see some more shikar. He would then look very solemn. shake his head emphatically and assure me " Kabhi nahin.

amused by for the bustle at the small wayside station we had just built. the Nairobi was pushed forward as rapidly as possible. therefore. On returning to my hut. threw myself into a long deck chair. with a great deal of clanking and puffing. we all One day and I (May 28) the weather was exceptionally hot. idly watching our tiny construction engine forging its -way. was touch-and-go whether it would manage to get its heavy load of rails and sleepers to the top of It . at I about three o'clock in the afternoon. up a steep gradient just across the river. Here and anything beyond a long cool rested for an hour or so. too tired I drink.CHAPTER XXIII A SUCCESSFUL LION HUNT WHEN the Athi river section of the line to had been bridged. had been out in the broiling superintending the sun ever since daylight construction of banks and cuttings and the erection of temporary bridges. and from dawn to dark exerted ourselves to the very utmost.

Naturally. on his heels.CH." he said. stood for a moment with the right hand held out on a level with his shoulder. the fingers extended and the palm turned towards me I all indicating that he came on a friendly visit. however. clothed in a very inadequate piece of wildebeeste hide which was merely slipped under the left arm and He looped up in a knot over the right shoulder. to the last " fyrbali kidogo" question he was bound to answer . " they have just it.' when he saw how keen I was about both lions him with questions were they or lionesses ? had they manes ? how far I plied away were they? and so on. and asked him what he wanted. and contest that I became so interested in the between steam and friction did not notice that a visitor and gravity. had approached I and was standing quietly beside me. in fact. turned round and saw a lean and withered half-bred Masai. On hearing the usual salutation. I forgot everything that was not directly connected with the Even the old savage excitement of lion-hunting. at my feet grinned it. he dropped down " I want to lead the Great Master to as he did so. forgot that I was tired and hungry . xxiii A SUCCESSFUL LION HUNT I 261 the incline or not. his old bones cracking two and lions. Before answering." killed a zebra are now devouring On hearing this I straightway forgot that I had already done a hard I day's work in the full blaze of an equatorial sun . returned his salutation.

but to hurry up and show me the lions.262 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO course they were not far away . and within an hour six miles still there was no sign . in Bwana " (" See. We travelled at a fully had covered of lions. started off accompanied by my I faithful Mahina and another the skin for if I coolie to help to bring home should prove successful. who refused to allow them to accompany us. On using my field-glasses. as he was afraid that they would seize all the zebra-meat that the lions had not However. CHAP. even more scantily the On joined by some attired than our guide. I told him not to bother. and soon a dispute arose between these hangers-on and the old Masai. Master"). to be absent the District Engineer. However. good pace. also left word my friend Spooner. our guide extended a long skinny finger and said " proudly. I Tazama. that I had gone after two lions. and with the old Masai as guide. Wa way we were Kamba. about six hundred yards off were a lion and a lioness busily engaged on the carcase of a zebra. I . the upshot was that in a very few minutes I had a mule saddled. and that I would look after him all right. who happened from camp just at the moment. and sure enough. Of nothing ever is to a native of East Africa. but hoped to be back by nightfall. looked the direction in which he pointed. on already eaten. getting to the low crest of one of the long swells in the ground. Eventually.

coming up selves on the to the top of the showed themat once. They allowed me to come a hundred yards or so nearer them. when the lion would make a him and scare him away. but no sooner did the lion stop and return to his meal The natives say. sky-line. The lions saw them turning round and standing erect to stare at them. ground. by than he crept nearer again. While I was thus studying at the picture. that a lion will eat every kind of animalincluding even other lions hyaena. my and followers became impatient my rise. The little jackal looked most ridiculous. scampering off before short rush at the huge beast with his tail well down . There was not an atom of cover to be seen. inactivity.xxin A SUCCESSFUL LION HUNT to observe a jackal in attendance 263 was amused the pair. I except a jackal or a was also interested to notice the way in which the lion got at the flesh of the zebra . for it so I started to walk did not slope in the required direction in open in a sidelong direction towards the formidable-looking pair. close to on Every now and then he would come too the zebra. in this and putting his claws well manner tore off great strips of the hide. he took a short run at the body. the way. and then the lioness bolted. the lion following her at a more leisurely trot. As soon as they left . into the skin. nor any chance of taking advantage the of the rolling .

264 T HE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO my CHAP. but the lion continued to move steadily away. the lioness took covert in some long grass that almost concealed her when she lay down. who mean- while had disappeared over another rise. and I saw that . hearing the o 7 noise of the squabble. halted on the hill crest of the dis- to take a deliberate look at I I me. and took careful aim and fired. evidently hard hit in a few seconds more she lay perfectly still. rush for so that it. so as to give me a better chance. African following made a and began a fierce fight over the remains. In the meantime the lion. of bowling her over as she came up the rise towards me. with three or . In an instant she was kicking on her back and tossing about. she was dead. to restore order I had and leave a coolie he to see that our guide got the largest share. and galloped as hard as luckily found the pair still jumped on could my mule him. I could plainly make out her light-coloured form in the grass. Accordingly I made for a point which would bring me about two hundred yards to the right of the lioness. and then to appeared over the brow. As soon as they saw me following them up. and which would leave a deep natural hollow between us. I now turned my attention to the lion. as deserved. in the event of a charge. By this time Mahina and the other Indian. and after in sight when I reached the top of the rise. the body of the zebra.

Nor was for we had scarcely topped the next of the disappointed. I me at last a splendid shoulder took very careful. lurking I somewhere that if I the grass not far and knew could depend upon the native eye to find him he showed so I much as the tip of his ear. in I sure that he was off. the lion still remained quiet. offering shot. and to make a half-circle round the animal. as he seemed to be it thought best to risk a shot even put up the 2ooyards sight and the . then decided to put into practice the scheme thought out the day I sat astride the lion killed I I had had on the Kapiti Plain : so I told all my followers move off to the right. had come in pursuit we of him. I I so. while The ruse waited. pretended not to have seen him. however. for as the men moved round to so did the lion. and . at this range. taking the mule with them. I lay motionless in the grass and succeeded admirably. steady aim and fired. and advanced to within two We hundred yards or getting uneasy. when. so felt A SUCCESSFUL LION the disappointed started off in a HUNT 265 Wa body Kamba. and again missed I fortunately. fifty Raising rifle the sight another yards. however. rise when one Wa Kamba spotted the dark brown head of it the brute as he raised for an instant above the grass in order to watch us.xxni four of up. Mahina's back for the next shot. bullet fell short but the lion never moved. with the result that he rolled over and over. I rested the on .

then I or two attempts to get up but failed. then ran up to within a few yards of him. their big shaggy heads rising every now and again above the grass to give us a prolonged stare. however. so without delay we started on our way camp. but the men I morrow were unable sure that to find sent out to do the job on any trace of her lay. for I they probably missed the place where she am I killed her. we were actually very moment by two other who eventually approached to within five hun- dred yards' distance and then lay down to watch us skinning their dead brother. and we once proceeded to skin him. A final shot laid him out. busy doing this. The lioness I thought I should leave to be skinned the back to next day the . and through both he was still game. and the last few miles do by the guidance of the Tramping over . one of the at While we were suddenly Wa Kamba drew my attention to the fact that being stalked at that lions. At the time I little knew next what a stirring adventure was in store for me day while in pursuit of these same brutes. It was almost dark when the skinning process was finished. It was a good two hours I after night had fallen before we got anywhere near was obliged to stars. which was about seven miles off. giving vent all the time to savage helpless bullet he was with a growls. and twisted round so shoulders as to face me.266 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO made one as CHAP. the railway.

When he found that had returned by nightfall. order to guide to me. settled which was still When we that night. had come out with a number of the workmen I in camp in to search for me in the direction had taken the afternoon.xxin A SUCCESSFUL LION HUNT 267 the plain on a pitch-dark night. with lions and rhino all about. Spooner and I had often had many friendly arguments in regard to the comparative courage of the lion and the tiger. so gave a reply rise. when my to my was beginning to think that I bearings and was getting anxious relief I I heard a at in rifle shot about it half a mile ahead of us. fired guessed once that was by I my good friend Spooner signal I . lost I I in camp. Spooner had become nervous about me. over a mile away. while to have his was equally glad escort and company back to camp. and on getting plain the top of the next saw the in front of me I all twinkling with not lights. and we agreed at once to go out next day and try to bag them both. and fearing that I had met with some mishap. telling had I down comfortably to dinner fired him of Spooner's sporting ardour by the fine pair of lions who had watched us skinning their companion. and wished myself and my men safely back Indeed. he holding the view that . He was delighted to find lion's skin me safe and sound and with a I as a trophy. heartily was by no means pleasant work. about must have it.

"Stripes" was the more formidable while though admitting to the full the courage of the tiger. maintained from lively personal experience that the lion when once roused was unequalled was in fact the for pluck and daring. but get him in the mood.268 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO foe. the fray at least. . xxm I. or wound African him. lions. I experience of East think that Spooner has now come was my round to my opinion. CH. his conversion taking place the next day in a very melancholy manner. and only his death or yours will end that. and most dangerous enemy at times slink off one could meet with. He may and not show fight .

CHAPTER XXIV BHOOTA'S LAST SHIKAR LONG awake after I had retired to to rest that night in I lay listening roar answering roar every direction round our camp. with a single blow he could tear to pieces. which Still. According to our over-night arrangement. when one knows he around is safe behind iron bars . and realised that we were indeed in the midst of a favourite haunt of the king of beasts. we were up betimes in the morning. as he was convinced that I should get . all this roaring was of good omen for the next day's sport. but quite another to listen to in the vicinity him when he is ramping of one's fragile tent. It is one thing to hear a lion in captivity. start. it I was quite midday before we made ready ought to mention before going further that as a rule Spooner declined my company on shooting trips. but as there was a great deal of work to be done before we could get to away.

occasion we effected a compromise for the day. and certainly almost proved disastrous. But my experience has been that it is always a very dangerous thing to rely on a borrowed gun or unless it rifle. has precisely the same in this instance action it as one's own . which a two-wheeled cart with a hood over consisted of Spooner it. but there no better way of getting about country like the Athi Plains. The party shikari Bhoota.270 " THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO " CHAP. Having thus seen to our rifles and ammunition in the and taken care also that some brandy was put luncheon-basket in case of an accident. this was rather a bone of contention between us. and two other Indians. while the other led " spare horse called Blazeaway. Spooner's Indian own gun-boy Mahina. he being a firm believer (and rightly) in a heavy weapon for big and dangerous game. one of whom. while I always did my best to defend the On this 303 which I was in the habit of using. sooner or later if I persisted in going scuppered " after lions with a popgun. my and myself. rifle I accepting the loan of his spare 12 -bore as a second gun in case I should get to close quarters. so where long as it is dry there is little or . Imam Din." Now it may seem a strange plan to is go lion-hunting in a tonga. rode a in the tonga." as he contemptuously termed my '303. we set off is early in the afternoon in Spooner's tonga. Indeed.

who was a wary shikari and an old bull. servant of Spooner's. and here we allowed Bhoota. Next we came upon a herd of wildebeeste. at this favour. little After some time the excitement began by our spying the black-tipped ears of a lioness projecting above the grass. so we moved further on and had another good beat round. most tempting shots. Very imposing and majestic he looked. as he thus turned us. and the next moment a very fine lion arose from beside her and gave us a full view of his grand head and mane. too. struck no doubt by the npvel appearance of our conveyance. defiantly towards shaggy head and Spooner had to admit his great . a slight covered with long grass but there was now no trace of them to be discovered.xxiv BHOOTA'S LAST SHIKJR traffic. for they stood stock-still gazing at us. After staring fixedly at us in an inquiring sort of way as we slowly advanced upon off. and on the way bagged a hartebeeste and a couple of gazelle. them. and did the job I At t\vo last we reached the spot where had seen the hollow. they offered we rattled over the smooth expanse . lions on the previous day . good rate. to stalk a solitary He was highly pleased admirably. as fresh meat was badly needed in camp besides. 271 nothing to obstruct wheeled Once at a started. they both turned and slowly trotted lion stopping the every now and again to gaze round in our direction.

done for her. . thought I had . he had ever seen. into some long from which we could not hope to dislodge it them. we turned back towards camp. and as there to seemed possibility of inducing the lions which they had concealed themselves. they were nowhere to be seen. and at the third shot the lioness tumbled over to my 303. nearer As there seemed to be no we decided to open fire At first I prospect of getting at this range.272 that it THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO was the finest sight CHAP. sight over a bit into of rising we jumped retreat. As leave was now no late in the afternoon. as for a few minutes she lay on the ground kicking and struggling but in the end. whence we caught sight of them about four hundred yards away. On getting to the other side. hit. quickly the tonga and galloped round the base of the knoll so as to cut off their the excitement of the rough and bumpy ride being intensified a hundredfold probability of our driving slap rise. so we drove on as hard as we could to the top. she rose to her feet and followed the grass who had escaped uninjured. into by the the pair on rounding the however. although evidently . badly lion. intendthe thicket in ing to come out again the next day to track the . For a while but rinding at length that they were getting away from us and lost to we followed them on foot would soon be ground.

I I me " steadily all the called out to Spooner." and he whipped up the ponies a moment or two was beside me with the had seized at tonga. They looked they meant to dispute our passage.xxiv BHOOTA'S LAST SHIKAR lioness. and on looking over my left shoulder to discover the reason. We sit down comfortably to " " pot them. the arrangement being that Spooner was to take the right-hand one had got to within sixty yards' range without incident and were just about to and I the other. for they came slowly towards me for about ten yards or so and then lay down. lions not I Suddenly I felt " " was startled to see two fine the pair more than a hundred yards away. Here are the lions told in and you about. By this time so I my '303 and dis- mounted. watching time. wondering whether he were worth a shot. evidently which I had seen the day before and which really we had as if come in search of. shied badly at a hyaena. which sprang up out of the grass almost from beneath his when suddenly he and quickly scampered off. when they off. we once commenced a cautious advance on the crouching lions. I 273 wounded and was trotting was now riding " Blazeaway " along in advance of the tonga. I pulled up for a moment and sat watching the hyaena's ungainly bounds. I suddenly surprised us by turning and bolting T . feet Blazeaway trembling violently beneath me.

274

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO

CHAP.

managed, however, to put a bullet into the one I had marked just as he crested a bank, and he
looked very grand as he reared up against the For a sky and clawed the air on feeling the lead. second or two he gave me the impression that he

was about

to charge

;

but luckily he changed his

mind and followed
escaped scot
"

his
I

companion, who had so
"

far

away

Blazeimmediately mounted and galloped off in hot pursuit, and after
free.
stiff

about half a mile of very them once more. Finding
get away,

going got up with
that they could not
to

now

they

halted,

came

bay and

then

charged down upon me, the wounded lion leading. I had left my rifle behind, so all I could do was to
turn

could go, Blazeaway praying inwardly the while that he would not put When the lions saw that they his foot into a hole.
fly

and

as

fast

as

"

"

were unable to overtake me, they gave up the chase and lay down again, the wounded one being about

two hundred yards in front of the other. At once I pulled up too, and then went back a little way, keeping a careful eye upon them and I continued
;

these tactics of riding up and
distance until Spooner

down

at a respectful
rifles,

came up with the
it

when

we renewed the attack. As a first measure I thought
able the unhurt lion 303,
I

advisable to disstill

using the got him with the second shot at a range of
if

possible, and,

xxiv

BHOOTA'S LAST SHIK4R

275

about three hundred yards. He seemed badly hit, for he sprang into the air and apparently fell heavily. I then exchanged my -303 for Spooner's spare 12bore
lion,
rifle,

and we turned our attention
all this

to the nearer
still,

who

time had been lying perfectly

watching our movements closely, and evidently just waiting to be down upon us the moment we came
within charging distance. opportunity,

He was

never given

this

however,

for

nearer than ninety yards,

we did not approach when Spooner sat down

comfortably and knocked him over quite dead with one shot from his '577, the bullet entering the left
shoulder obliquely and passing through the heart. It was now dusk, and there was no time to be
lost
if

we meant

to

bag the second

lion

as well.

resumed our cautious advance, moving to the right as we went, so as to get behind us what The lion of course light there was remaining.
twisted round in the grass in such a
to
I

We therefore

way

as always

keep facing us, and looked very ferocious, so that was convinced that unless he were entirely disfirst

abled by the
a whirlwind.

shot he would be
I

down on

us like

All the same,

felt

confident that,

even

in

this

event, one

of us would

succeed

in
;

stopping

but

in

him before he could do any damage I was unfortunately to be proved this

mistaken.

Eventually we managed to get within eighty yards T 2

276

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
I

CHAP.

of the enraged animal,
to

being about

five

yards

the

left

front
at

of Spooner,

who was

followed

by Bhoota
rear.

By

about the same distance to his right this time the lion was beside himself

with fury, growling savagely and raising quite a cloud of dust by lashing his
It
tail

against the ground.

was

clearly high

time
fire,
I

that
I

we

did something,

so asking Spooner to

dropped on one knee
in suspense, for the

and waited. Nor was

kept long

moment Spooner's shot rang out, up jumped the lion and charged down in a bee-line for me, coming in
I fired the right low bounds at great speed. barrel at about fifty yards, but apparently missed the

long,

;

left

at

effect.

about half that range, still without stopping I knew then that there was no time to reload,

so remained kneeling, expecting

him

to be

on me the

Suddenly, just as he was within a bound of me, he made a quick turn to my right.
next moment.

"Good
flash

heavens,"
I

I

thought,
in this,

"he

is

going

for

Spooner."

was wrong

however,

for like a

he passed Spooner also, and with a last tremendous bound seized Bhoota by the leg and rolled
over and over with

him

for

some yards
throat,

in

the

impetus of the rush.

Finally he

stood over him

and

tried

to

seize

him by the
into
at

which the
stuffing

brave fellow prevented by courageously
his
left
!

arm

right

the
the

great
critical

jaws.

Poor

Bhoota

By moving

moment, he

xxiv

BHOOTA'S LAST SHIKAR
diverted the
lion's

277

had

attention

from

me and

had drawn the whole fury of the charge on to
himself.

All this, of course,

happened

in

only a second or
I

two.

In the short instant that intervened,

felt

a

cartridge thrust into
servant,

my hand

by Spooner's plucky

Imam
all

Din,

who had
1

carried the

2 -bore

day and

who had
gallantly

stuck to

me

throughout
;

the

charge
it in, I

and
rushed
could

shoving
to

as quickly as

I

Bhoota's

rescue.

Meanwhile,

Spooner
:<

had got there before me and when I came

SPOONER'S PLUCKY SERVANT, IMAM
DIN."

up actually had
vain

his left

hand on the

lion's flank, in

a

attempt to push him off Bhoota's prostrate body and so get at the heavy rifle which the poor
fellow
still

stoutly clutched.

The lion, however, was
arm
that he paid
efforts.

so busily engaged mauling Bhoota's

not the slightest attention to Spooner's
fortunately, as
tion,
I

Un-

had
I

to

he was facing straight in my direcmove up in full view of him, and the
in

moment
the

reached his head, he stopped chewing

arm,

though

still

holding
his

it

his

mouth,

and threw himself back on

haunches, prepar-

278

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
the

CHAP.

ing for a spring, at
his
lips
I

same time curling back
a

and exposing

his long tusks in

savage

snarl.

knew then
I

that

I

had not a moment

to spare, so

threw the

rifle

up

to

and

trigger. Imagine and horror when it did not go off! " Misfire spair again," I thought, and my heart almost stopped As I took a step backwards, I felt it was beating.

pulled

the

my shoulder my utter de-

all

he would never give extract the cartridge and load again.
over now,
for

me
Still

time to
I

took

another step backwards, keeping my eyes fixed on the lion's, which were blazing with rage and in the
;

middle of

my

third

step, just as

the brute

was

gathering himself for his spring, it suddenly struck me that in my haste and excitement, I had forgotten
that
I

was using a borrowed

rifle

and had not pulled

back the hammer (my own was hammerless). To do this and put a bullet through the lion's brain

was then the work of a moment
instantly right

;

and he

fell

dead

on the top of Bhoota.

We

did not lose a

moment

in rolling his great

carcase off Bhoota's body and quickly forced open

the jaws

so

which

still

disengage the mangled arm, remained in his mouth. By this time
as
to

the poor shikari was in a fainting condition, and
flew to the tonga for the brandy flask which

we
a

we had

so providentially brought with us.

On making

rough examination of the wounded man, we found that his left arm and right leg were both frightfully

xxiv

BHOOTA'S LAST SHIK4R

279

mauled, the latter being broken as well.
lifted

He

was

tenderly into the tonga
to

how

thankful
at

we now
once set

were

have

it

with us

!

and Spooner
the doctor.

off with

him

to

camp and

Before following them home I made a hasty examination of the dead lion and found him to be a

very good specimen
satisfied

every way. I was particularly to see that one of the two shots I had fired
in

as

he charged down upon me had taken effect. The bullet had entered below the right eye, and
Unfortunately
it

only just missed the brain.
steel

was a

one which Spooner had unluckily brought in his ammunition bag by mistake still one would
;

have thought that a shot of this kind, even with a hard bullet, would at least have checked the lion for
the moment.
clean

As

a matter of

fact,

however,

it

went

through
effect.

him without

stopping
lead,

My

last

having the slightest bullet, which was of soft
*

right eye and embedded itself in the brain. By this time it had grown almost dark, so I left the two dead lions where they lay and rode for camp, which I was lucky

had

entered

close

to

the

enough
mishap.

to
I

reach

without

further

adventure
early

or

may mention
;

here

that

next

morning two other lions were found devouring the one we had first shot but they had not had time to
do much damage, and the head, which
I

have had

mounted, makes a very fine trophy indeed. lion that mauled Bhoota was untouched.

The

2 8o

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
arrival in

CHAP.

On my
that

camp

I

found that everything

was possible was being done for poor Bhoota by Dr. McCulloch, the same who had travelled up with
to

me
on

Tsavo and shot the
first

ostrich from the train

my

arrival

in

the country, and

who was

His wounds had been skilfully on the spot. dressed, the broken leg put in splints, and under the influence of a soothing draught the poor fellow was
luckily

soon sleeping peacefully. At first we had great hope of saving both life and limb, and certainly for

some days he seemed
as could be expected.

be getting on as well The wounds, however, were
to

very bad ones, especially those on the leg where the
long tusks had met through and through the flesh, the arm, leaving over a dozen deep tooth marks
;

It was though dreadfully mauled, soon healed. wonderful to notice how cheerfully the old shikari

bore

and a pleasure to listen to his tale of how he would have his revenge on the whole tribe
it

all,

of lions as soon as he was able to get about again.

But

alas, his

shikar was over.

The
in,

leg got rapidly
it

worse, and mortification setting

had

to

be

amputated half way up the thigh. Dr. Winston Waters performed the operation most skilfully, and

enough the operating table was canopied with the skin of the lion which had been responcuriously
sible for the injury.

Bhoota made a good recovery from the operation, but seemed to lose heart when he found that he had only one leg left, as according

The Author. and died on after a brother . and Spooner especially could not have looked to more tenderly but our great sorrow he sank gradually. We did all that was possible for him. . The hunt which had proved in to be the last such a disastrous sequel occasion on which I met a lion got out of the hunting country shortly afterwards and for the rest of my stay in East Africa I had too much work to do to be the open.XXIV BHOOTA'S LAST SHIKAR 281 to his ideas he had now but a poor chance of being allowed to enter Heaven. Bhoota.] A COLLECTION OF TROPHIES. as able to we go any distance in search of big game. July 19. Imam Din. ioner.

master. in his inspection I Poor Ryall little carriage on the railway. he actually climbed up on to the roof of the station buildings and tried to tear off the corrugated. and had devel- oped an extraordinary taste for the members of the He was a most daring brute. Ryall. indifferent as to whether he carried off the station. or the pointsman night. in his efforts to obtain a and one meal. ! thought then what a terrible fate was to overtake him only a few months later in that very carriage in which we dined. I the end of my stay in British East dined one evening with Mr. the Superintendent of the Police.iron sheets. the signalman. quite railway staff. in At this the terrified baboo charge of the telegraph instrument below sent the following laconic message .CHAPTER XXV A MAN-EATER IN A RAILWAY CARRIAGE TOWARDS Africa. A little man-eating lion had taken up his quarters at a roadside station called Kimaa.

he was travelling up in his inspection the lion carriage from Makindu to Nairobi. but he tried so hard to get in that he cut his feet badly on the iron sheeting." " was not victorious Fortunately he " fight with the station . the hunter became the hunted middle of . in the top through which he Fortunately the tank was just too deep for the brute to be able to reach the man but the latter was naturally half at the bottom had squeezed .CH. hope of getting a shot and had a loop-hole cut in the side of the tank from which to fire. however. accompanied by . poor Ryall met his tragic and untimely June 6. Send urgent succour. he succeeded carrying off the native driver of the pumping-engine. 1900. paralysed with fear and had to crouch so low down as to be unable to take anything like proper aim. Another night. On one occasion an engine-driver arranged to iron water-tank in the sit up all night in a large at him. however. overthrew tank and actually tried to drag the driver out through the narrow circular hole in. xxv the MAN-EATER IN RAILWAY CARRIAGE Traffic 283 to Manager in his " : Lion fighting with station. He fired. It was in a vain attempt to destroy this pest that On end. and succeeded in frightening away for the time being. the lion turned the up in the the night. leaving large bloodstains on the in roof. But as so often happens. and soon afterwards added several other victims to his list.

The hour now growing lie late.284 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO friends. it owing list to the unfinished state ot the line. two Mr. and there being apparently no sign of the lion. Huebner occupied the high berth over the table on the one side of the carriage. After events proved that these could have been nothing else than the eyes of the man-eater steadily watching them all the time and studying their every movement. CHAP. but had to a pronounced one out side. while he kept the first watch. so up their minds to remain there for the night and endeavour to shoot him. the only other berth being on the opposite side of the compartment and lower down. Ryall's carriage was accordingly detached from they at the train once made and shunted into a siding close to the station. is When they reached Kimaa. they returned to the carriage for dinner. In the afternoon the lion. This Ryall . did not stand perfectly level. the three friends went to look for but finding no traces of him whatever. they were their train the man-eater had been seen close to the station only a short time before arrived. Parenti. but only noticeable they what they took to be two very bright and steady glowworms. Huebner and Mr. where. which about two hundred told that and fifty miles from Mombasa. Afterwards they the all sat up on guard thing for some time saw was . Ryall persuaded his two friends to down.

but him had actually to plant his feet on Parenti.xxv MAN-EATER IN RAILWAY CARRIAGE declined it. He order to reach it . 1285 offered to Parenti. in sprang at once at Ryall. it But owing to the tilt of the carriage and to his on the one side. doubtless. berth and dozed off. for he lay down on the lower No sooner had he done man-eater began In order to cautiously to stalk the three sleepers. The door from platform into the carriage was a sliding one on . than the cunning he had railway to mount two very high but these he steps from to the line. it was an easy matter for the lion to thrust in a paw and shove it open. the door slid to great extra weight and snapped into the lock the moment he got his body right in. who. so. with his feet towards door which gave admission to the carriage. would be quite comfortable on the accordingly lay the sliding and he down to sleep. after watching to for some considerable must have come the its conclusion that the lion was not going to make appearance that night. reach the little platform at the end of the carriage. which ran very easily on a brass runner and as was probably not quite shut. or at any rate not secured in any way. thus leaving him shut up with the three sleeping men in the compartment. wheels. Ryall. who saying that he floor . managed negotiate this successfully and in silence. It is supposed that time.

managed to reach the but there. was sleeping on the floor. and victim to was too busily engaged with pay any attention to him. efforts to last open to it. So he door in safety . CHAP. and on looking down from his berth was this horrified to see an enormous lion standing with his hind on Parenti's body. But in order to reach to the door Huebner had literally to jump on filled man-eater's back. it credible. A moment afterwards a great crash was heard. managed and exerting all his strength at pull it back sufficiently far to allow him to squeeze through. to fast his dismay. he found that it was held on the other side by the terrified coolies. Small wonder that he was feet There was only one possible way of escape. but appears that in horror of the moment he actually did fortunately the his lion sounds scarcely the excitement and this. and the . which was opposite to that by which the this lion had entered. second sliding door communicating with the servants' quarters. will At moment Huebner was suddenly awakened by a loud cry. while his forepaws rested on poor Ryall. it when the trembling coolies their instantly tied up again with turbans. for the its great bulk It up all space beneath his berth.286 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO be remembered. who had been aroused by the disturbance caused by the lion's In utter desperation he made frantic entrance. and that was through the panic-stricken at the sight.

carrying off poor Ryall with him. and fled to refuge one of the station buildings . AND THEN SHOT. and floor. Being now released. as the lion had been actually standing on him as he lay on the The carriage itself was badly shattered. Parenti lost no time in jumping through the win- dow on for the opposite side of the carriage. his "HE WAS KEPT ON VIEW FOR SEVERAL DAYS. 287 whole carriage lurched violently to one side the lion had broken through one of the windows. that poor Ryall's death ." escape was little short of miraculous. the wood-work of the window had been broken by the passage of the in his is to pieces lion as he sprang through with his victim All that can be hoped mouth.xxv MAN-EATER IN RAILWAY CARRIAGE .

the terrible am this glad to be able to add that very shortly afterwards brute who was responsible for tragedy was caught in an constructed by one of the railway awful ingenious staff. and then shot. trap He was kept on view for several days.MI'AI. His remains were found next in the I morning about a quarter of a mile away bush. .A. and were taken to Nairobi for burial. xxv was instantaneous.288 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CH. l.

and was bemoaning to me his bad luck in never having shot or even seen a lion all the time he had been in the country. ling I the lion which caused poor Bhoota's last I was the managed line at to shoot in East saw several others afterwards while different I travel- up and down the times on construction work. accompanied by Dr. engine at back to the north. it is because you don't look out for them." he retorted out hunting. he with his " I We My dear Mac. remember one very curious incident which happened early on the morning of June was travelling towards The Nairobi. Doctor was going home on leave in the course of a 2. McCulloch. In particular.CHAPTER XXVI WORK AT NAIROBI ALTHOUGH death Africa. I do nothing else when am ." said. facing each other." " . " were standing on the the time. I when few days." " I Rubbish.

" Just continued.290 " THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO Well. Needless to say he was tremendously delighted with his success." He turned in could hardly believe fine lions only his when he saw two engaged in about two hundred yards off. so called out to him shoot the his escape. replied. for you. evidently just killed. I Very good. so as to give him a greater surprise. reply. Sultan. a chance jump round off and bag those two over blank astonishment and eyes there. and after the dead lion had been carried to the train and . the engine in a second and He to fire to was off made directly for the two beasts. Just as he I was about one of them bolted. other quickly before he too made good This one was looking at us over his shoulder with one paw on the dead wildebeeste. and while he stood bullet in this attitude Mac dropped him with a through the heart. busily devouring a wildebeeste which they had I had spotted them almost as soon as Mac had begun to talk of his bad luck. as " the here's train was quickly brought to a standstill." I CHAP. "are you really very anxious to " shoot one before you go home ? " I would rather get a lion than anything else the world. " in was the emphatic then." " driver. Mac." called to the "stop the engine." I Now. and had only waited to tell him until we got nearer.

houses and work-shops built." was an immense amount of work to be done in converting an absolutely bare plain. turnu 2 .XXVI 291 propped up against a carriage. given charge of the new Nairobi was to be the head- quarters of the Railway Administration. I took a photograph of him standing beside his fine trophy. Three days after this incident railhead reached Nairobi. into a Roads and bridges had to busy railway centre. be constructed. so there " I TOOK A I'HOTOC. three hundred and twenty-seven miles from the nearest place where even a nail could be purchased. and I was division of the line.RAI'H OF HIM STANDING RKSIDF: HIS KINK TROl'HY.

and a hundred to and one other of things done which go the making to a railway township. I passed Dr. gardens) at the back of the hill on which my camp was pitched were being destroyed by elephants. For this somewhat arbitrary proceeding I I expected . work and very useful and capable they proved little themselves after a training. and on my own responsibility promptly burned the whole place to the ground. as but all the same it effectually stamped the country. Winston Waters. two I of plague the broke out before very so inhabited it gave an hour's notice natives to and Indians who clear out. . however. In this. and a a thriving "bazaar" sprang into existence with mushroom-like growth. the news on to On my one occasion.292 tables laid THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO and CHAP. which did not reappear during the time I was in With a several little persuasion of the I managed Kikuyu. out the plague. a water supply on. a or case long. come and to in induce hundred Wa to whose at country Nairobi. we now were. however. station quarters erected. was mildly called over the coals. the nucleus present town began take shape. of the Wonderfully soon. They frequently brought me in word that the shambas (plantations. however. but unfortunately I could never spare time to go out in quest of them. friend.

therefore. and. The elephant responded by a prompt charge. There was nothing for it.xxvi WORK AT NAIROBI 3 with the result that he had a most exciting adventure with a big bull elephant. for the huge but at the critical on him . aiming for the heart. he soon scrambled out. In a few seconds matters began to look very serious for the was almost sportsman. as the at the bottom nor very pit was neither staked deep . so he stalked up to within a few yards of the animal and then fired his "577. and determined let and left although barrel Waters well. so down a path raced Waters for he was worth. soon came upon him hidden among some Waters was a great believer in a shady trees. following up . He set out in quest of the depredator. This sudden descent of his enemy he stepped on to the false apparently into the bowels of the earth so startled the elephant that he stopped short in his career and made off into the jungle. as proved of no effect and on he came. the ele- phant giving vigorous chase and gaining rapidly. screaming and trumpeting with rage. but to fly for all dear life . As for Waters. and. it quickly him have the . monster moment cover of a carefullyconcealed game pit and disappeared from view as if by magic. he was luckily none the worse for his fall. close shot. guided by a few of the Wa Kikuyu.

my Wa Kikuyu came me.294 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO wounded elephant. A in I started called to cold. my . children ". I could hardly imagine of myself arriving four hundred in London with a body-guard less I more or only with difficulty that naked savages. succeeded in finishing CHAP. but they assured me that these were nothing to them." and its great distance from their native land . as they themselves. The ever- Mahina. " as they only wished to continue to go. the off" him without further trouble. I Towards the end of 1899 few days before " I left for all England. but it was persuaded them that they had better remain faiihful in their own country. a body and begged pictured to them the be taken with wet climate of England 'SUCCEEDED IN FINISHING HIM OFF WITHOUT FURTHER TROUBLE. my "boy" Roshan Khan. my " children and wherever I went.

AT KISl'MU. where they bade me a for sorrowful I farewell and left India the day before sailed on my homeward journey.XXVI WORK AT NAIROBI 295 honest chankidar Meeanh. ON LAKE VICTORIA NYAN/A. STEAMER I'NI. . and a few other coolies who had been to a long time with me.OADINC. accompanied me the coast.

half wondering every moment if the ghosts of the two man-eaters would spring at me out of the bushes. I took the trouble. CHAPTER XXVII THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND DURING the early part of last year (1906) I revisited the scene of my former labours and adven- tures on a shooting which I Unfortunately the train by travelled up from Mombasa reached Tsavo trip. but my companions were anxious to push on as quickly as possible to better hunting-grounds. I wanted very much to spend a day or two in the old place. to wake them out of their peaceful slumbers in order to point out to by the pale moonlight. deserved. however. the strength and beauty of the Tsavo bridge but I fear this delicate as it little attention was scarcely appreciated them. Naturally I could not expect them. TANA RIVER. or . . at midnight.THE GRAND FALLS. but all the same I got out and prowled about as long as time would permit.

297 anyone of view I view the bridge quite from my point looked on it as a child of mine. xxvii THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND else. brought stress up through and danger and troubles of all SHIMONE. to . "THE PLACE OF FALLING WATER" (ELDAMA RAVINE). insignificant structure We spent a few days at Nairobi. but the ordinary traveller of course knows nothing of this and doubtless thinks it only a very commonplace and indeed. kinds. now a flourish- .CH.

cool and bracing. and the climate way. We all got a fair amount of .000 inhabitants. Victoria Nyanza and Uganda. some 6.THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO ing town of CHAP. we made our way back to the Eldama Ravine. including a well and after a short trip to Lake laid-out race course . supplied with every modern comfort and luxury. which Here we lies some twenty bioO miles north of Landiani Station in the province of Naivasha. which to am glad to say proved be a most delightful and interesting one in every The country was lovely. started in earnest on our I cyame expedition.

five. roan antelope. our including rhino. the off Kldama Ravine in and trekked an easterly direction across the Laikipia Plateau. was lucky enough to shoot a specimen of an entirely new race of eland. Our on party of including one lady left who rode and shot equally January 22. waterbuck. hartebeeste. straight. wildebeeste. ostrich. pala. etc.xxvn THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND bag- 299 sport. hippo. As the trail which we were to take was very little known and . I but for the present must confine myself to a short account of how I ROAN ANTELOPE. oryx. im- reedbuck. .

cheery fellow of same tribe named Landaalu . But as he could not speak a word of Swahili. and he in his turn ." Uashin Gishu Masai named Uliagurma. CHEERY FELLOW. the kindly Officer at the Ravine. almost Mr. . District CHAP.300 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO impossible to follow without a guide. very a procured us a reliable man young "AN EXCELLENT. NAMED LANDAALU. . Foaker. an excellent. we had also to engage an the interpreter.

Our route although he was no earthly use to us.xxvn THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND who insisted 301 possessed a kinsman on coming too. so I told him to come lo me when we proved got to camp and I would see what I could do for him. I noticed that Uliagurma. and across many rivers and streamlets. my doctoring most successful. took us through the Solai Swamp. and grateful that he spread my Uliagurma was so fame as a " medicine- . from earache. though uncomplainingly. over the Multilo and Subu unexpected Ko Lultian ranges. Strange to say. march (guide). our kirongozi was suffering extremely. On our first CROSSING A STREAM ON THE COOK'S BOX.

call and the my my gun-bearer Juma. and visited our camp in swarms an hour or so after our arrival. Riding my pony ance in their and accompanied by Landaalu as interpreter. of them and only hope I did not injure many but it was heartrending to see some of the I quite hopeless cases was expected the to cure. I used to do what I could. however. and no sooner had cleared the .302 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO " CHAP. and wide among the natives wherever we The consequence was that men. friendly. the inhabitants of which seemed much astonished at our sudden appear- They were very neighbourhood. to asked that there was any game about and was told some might be found a few miles . when the cliuorani (warriors) gave for entertainment an exhibition of the gymnastic exercises which they practise regularly in order more render particularly them if strengthen their legs and After the performance I supple. to the north of the kraal so I set out at once with Landaalu It I and Juma to try my luck. After we had climbed the Subu Ko Lultian and got a footing on the plateau. man far trekked. begging for some of the magical dawa (medicine). women in and children every state of disease and crippledom came and besieged our camps. on the banks of Angarua where camp we found a big Masai kraal. . was a perfect belt afternoon. I returned their in afternoon. we pitched our river.

and care- I disnoting the direction they were taking.xxvii THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND when by 303 of scrub which grew round the kraal. fully I marked these for my own. aid of the my glasses in I saw a herd of zebra and other distance. mounted and made a detour round a rise so as to lie in wait for them and cut them for off. to the two fine plan animals come straight towards me without . of eland were gradually drawing away from the rest of the herd. My succeeded continued admirably. and noticed as went that a couple CROSSING THE ANGAKUA RIVER. I game away on the the feeding peacefully steadily rolling prairie. made my way I towards them.

3 o4

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
by the way.
I

CHAP.

suspicion, feeding quietly

When

they

got to within eighty

yards or so,

picked out the

bigger head and was only waiting for him to make a slight turn before pulling the trigger, when bang

went the heavy

rifle

half a mile away.

companions about In an instant the two eland had
of one of

my

bounded

off,

and

I

decided not to risk a shot,
settle

in

the

hope that they would soon
give

down again and
firing

me

another chance.

Mentally blessing

my

friend

for

at

this

untimely moment, I watched them belt of wood about a mile further
against hope
side that they

make
on,

for

a

hoping would remain on the near
luck,

of

it.

No
it

such

however,

for

they

plunged
out of

into

my

and were quickly swallowed up sight. Running to my pony, which
I

Landaalu had dexterously brought up,
in

galloped

the

direction

of the

spot
;

in

the

trees

where
vexa-

the eland had disappeared
tion

but imagine

my

up sharp on the edge of a nasty-looking swamp, which at first sight appeared too boggy and treacherous to
I

when

I

found that

had

to pull

attempt to cross.

I

rode up and

down

it

without

being able to find anything like a really safe crossing
place, so in desperation
I

at last

determined to take

along an old rhino path where the reeds were flattened down. My pony floundered
the risk of crossing
it

bravely through, and eventually succeeded

in get-

xxvii

THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND
I

305

ting safely to the other side.

then

made my way
was relieved
I

cautiously through the belt of trees, and
to find that
it

was only half a mile or so broad.

RKEDBUCK.

dismounted as

I

neared the further side, and, tying

my pony

to a tree, crept quietly forward, expecting
;

to see the eland not far off

but to

my

disappoint-

ment there was no

trace of

game

of any kind on the

x

306

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO

CHAP.

whole wide stretch of country that met my view. I therefore tried another direction, and, taking a half
turn
to

my

left,

made my way
to the top of

carefully through

some open glades
far off.

a

little

rise

not

The

sight that
;

now met my eyes

fairly

took

my

breath away

for there, not three

and stalking placidly along at herd of fully a hundred eland of

hundred yards off a slow walk, was a
all

ages and

sizes.

The

column was brought up by a magnificent old bull, and my heart jumped for joy as I watched him from the shelter of the bushes behind
rear of the

which

I

lay concealed.

The

next thing to be done

was

to decide

on a plan of

attack,

and

this

had

to

be

thought of without loss of time, for the wind was blowing from me almost in the direction of the
eland,
I

who would
not

certainly scent

me

very soon

if

did
in

tion
all

Quickly noting the direcwhich they were moving, I saw that if
get

away.

went well they ought

to pass close

to a little

hillock about a mile or so off;

and

if

I

were very

thought I could make a circuit through the wood and be on this rise, in a good position for both wind and cover, before the
sharp about
it,

I

herd could

reach

it.

Accordingly

I

crept

away

with the object of finding

my

mount, but to

my

stood delight just behind me and well hidden the undefeated Landaalu, who in some mysterious

xxvir

THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND
followed
it

307

way had
had
left

me
a

up, found the

tied

to

tree,

pony where I and brought it on to me.

bright grin on his face he thrust the reins into my hand, and I was up and galloping off in an
instant.
I

With a

soon discovered that
I

I

had further
to

to

go than

big detour order to keep out of sight of the herd but on once or twice and peeping through the trees halting
I

expected, for

was forced

make a

in

;

I

saw that

still

last

was going well and that they were The calmly moving on in the right direction. of a mile had to be negotiated in quarter
all
I

found that by lying flat down on my pony's back I was completely hidden from the advancing herd by an intervening swell in the
the open, but

In this manner I managed to get unground. observed to the lee of my hillock, where I dis-

mounted, threw the reins over a stump, and crawled
stealthily but

could to the top. I was in great doubt as to whether I should be in
I

as quickly as

time or not, but on peering, hatless, over the crest, I was overjoyed to find the whole herd just below

me.

One
at once,
It

of the eland, not twenty yards

off,

saw

me

and stood

still

to gaze at
I

me

in astonish-

ment.

was a female, however, so
looked round
near.
to

took no notice

of her, but

see

if

my

great bull
;

were anywhere

Yes, there he was
I

he had

passed the spot where

lay,

but was not more than

x

2

3 o8

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
off,

CHAP.

forty yards

as

when

I

moving in the same leisurely fashion An instant later, he first saw him.

noticed the general alarm caused by

my

appearance,

and stopped and turned half round to see what was This gave me my opportunity, so I the matter.
fired,

The way in aiming behind the shoulder. which he jumped and kicked on feeling the lead told

me

got two more bullets into him from the magazine of my '303 before he managed to gain the shelter of a neighbouring In the meantime the thicket and was lost to sight.
I

had

hit

him hard, and

I

whole herd had thundered
pearing
I

off at

full

gallop,

disap-

in

a few minutes in a cloud of dust.
little difficulty

was confident that there would be
finding

in

the

wounded

eland,

and on Landaalu

coming up
to

which, by the way, he did almost im-

mediately, for he was a wonderful goer

we

started

make

a rough search through the thicket.

Owing

to the

growing darkness, however, we met with no success, so I decided to return to camp, which was

many

miles

away, and to

resume the

quest

at

daybreak the following morning. It turned out that we were even further from home than I thought,

and black night came upon us before we had covered
a quarter of the distance.

Fortunately the invalu-

able Landaalu had discovered a

good crossing over the swamp, so we were able to press on at a
good pace without losing any time
in

overcoming

xxvn

THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND

309

the obstacle.

we
by

After an hour or so of hard travelling, were delighted to see a rocket go up, fired
friends
to

my
is

guide us on our way.

Such a
far

sight

wonderfully cheering

when one

is

away

from camp, trudging along in the inky darkness and none too certain of one's direction and a rocket
;

equipment should
before
to

invariably

be

carried

by the

traveller in the wilds.

we

Several more were sent up got anywhere near camp, and I remarked

Landaalu that we must have gone a very long " way after the eland. Long way," he replied
;

"

why, Master, we have been

to

"

Baringo

!

This
away.

lake as a matter of fact

was
I

fully fifty miles fired

When

finally

we

arrived

the ardour of

my
had

companions by relating the adventures of the noon and telling them of the wonderful herd
seen
;

afterI

and

it

was

at

once agreed that we should stay

where we were

for a

day or two

in

the hope of

good sport being obtained. As soon as it was daylight the next morning
sent out a party of our porters with
full

I

instructions

where

to find

my

eland,

which

I

was sure must

be lying somewhere in the thicket close to the hill from where I had shot him and very shortly afterwards we ourselves made a start. After a couple of
;

hours' travelling
sight

we were
of the
stalked

lucky enough

to

catch

of a

portion

herd of

eland,

when

we dismounted and

them

carefully through

3 io

THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO
All of a sudden one
fifty

CHAP.

the long grass.

popped up

its

head unexpectedly about

yards away.

One
at

of
it,

companions immediately levelled his rifle but from where I was I could see better

my

than

he that the head was a poor one, and so called
out
late,

to

him not

to
at

fire.

however, for
It

that

The warning came moment he pulled
too,

too

the

trigger.

was rather a

difficult shot,

as the

body of the animal could not be seen very well owing to the height of the grass as the head still,
;

instantly disappeared

we hoped

for the best

and ran

up

to the place, but

no trace of the eland could be

found.
little

Accordingly we pushed on again and after a rested for a short time under the shade of some

trees.

We

had

gone
for

about

three

miles

after

game, when one of the porters remembered that he had left the water-bottle he was carrying at the trees where we had halted, so resuming our search
he was sent back
for
it

with

strict injunctions to

make

haste and to rejoin us as quickly as possible.
trifling incident

Curiously enough, this
providential
;

proved quite

for

the

porter

(whose

name was

recovering the water-bottle, found himself unable to trace us through the jungle and
Sabaki),
after

accordingly

On his way camp. back he actually stumbled over the dead body of the eland which I had shot the previous day and which
struck

home

for

the search party

I

had sent out

in the

morning had

looking for it close at hand. Uliagurma and in Landaalu. found that the so after taking at bees had eaten all the honey guides some photographs of our the work among bees we all pro- ceeded reaching camp with nothing to show for our long day's hunt. as it was very short and he had practically nothing else on. and continued our hunt for game. we knew nothing of all this. it When was . Meanwhile. who was in a great . of which the Masai are very fond. at however. This interference was naturally strongly resented by the bees. We were met by Sabaki. This the jolly fellow saying that if soon go and get the honey. to be put to flight by a few bees. a Masai. laughed heartily at Landaalu. took very good-humouredly. and then carried it to the camp. about dusk. of course. Shortly after noon we had it a light lunch. so Sabaki hailed them and they once set to work to skin and cut up the animal. homewards. and a most comical figure he cut in it. the nest was properly examined. and while we were eating our guides. and chaffed him unmercifully for allowing himself. however. and soon the semi-naked youths ran flying past us with the I angry swarm in full pursuit. he only had a jacket like mine he would I gave him my jacket at once.xxvn THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND They were still 311 failed to find. discovered a bees' nest a fallen tree and proceeded to try to extract the honey.

we could not understand it. On viewing the head. however. Misunderstanding what he said. CH. How know to till great this good fortune was . and on my asking him what he meant he told me about the finding of the eland. that the mystery was exall plained. and rejoiced him at this piece of good luck. He not greeted me by saying that after gone to Baringo for nothing the previous day. when I came found of examine the head and skin they both differed I carefully. granted that I knew it was mine. and near where my men ledged were searching to for So at I broke the truth gently my friend. as it was very much bigger than the and it was not till later one he had fired at . I quickly called up Sabaki and after some trouble got from him the whole story of how he had found taking it we had for the body close to my little hillock it. who once acknow- my claim and congratulated me on my I good fortune. xxvn state in and who started to explain very bad Swahili how he had come across the dead eland. For one . I told my friend that Sabaki had found the eland in which he had shot heartily with the morning. that materially from those any other eland that had ever seen. curled up camp fire. in the at evening when the I visited Landaalu.3 i2 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO of excitement. did I not long after but even then.

] . oryx pattencniaiuis.AND T. [From a photograph by Rowland Ward.THE NEW El.

S. smaller those the found forehead the giant The sides of were of a reddish colour. On my head while England Ward's April. which indicate a transition from the ordinary South African animal in the direction of eland. was no from long tuft the of hair on the forehead. 1906 " : Considerable interest attaches to the head of an 1 by Colonel J. eye ran an incomplete than. killed the giant eland 1 (Taurotragus derbianns) of In error for the " British. of the British Museum. I sent up. Lydekker also contributed the following notice describing the animal to The Field of September 29. and on the lower part of the face there was a much larger brown patch than is to be seen on the ordinary eland. thing. Mr. the body The striping on was very in to slight. white stripe in though eland. while lower corner of each similar to. H. the Rowland it be set and there was seen by Mr.3 i4 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO there CHAP.R. Rowland Ward." . the chief markings being return to to three lines across the withers. as showing the existence of a hitherto unknown race eland. Patterson in Portuguese East Africa. who wrote to tell me of that it possessed great zoological interest. F. Lydekker. and set up by Mr. R. in the well-known naturalist and specialist big game. on account of certain peculiarities in colouring and markings..

recalling the white chevron of the kuclu. lacks dark white- Portuguese East Africa where Colonel Patterson's . "In Colonel Patterson's eland (which may well be designated T. On the other hand. the whole middle line of the face of the adult bull is uniformly dark. of the face there is a larger dark-brown area part than in the ordinary eland. the upper part of the face has the hair rufous and shorter than in the ordinary eland. characteristic If all the elands from that part of of the latter. although there is a is rufous the fawn-coloured patch on each side above In both the latter respects Colonel nostril. Rothschild in Novitates Zoologicae for 1905. derbianus gigas].xxvn THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND district 315 Bahr-el-Ghazal and West Africa. above and between the eyes. the On the lower sides of the forehead being rufous. In the striped variety {Taurotragus oryx livingstonianus] of the ordinary South African eland. apparently although bordered band on the side of the neck. although the two stripes do not meet in the middle line. with a tuft of long bushy hair on the forehead. in the Sudani form of the giant eland (T. the one found in the giant eland. or even blackish-brown. while 'only a narrow stripe in the middle line of the face. oryx pattersoniamis) there is an incomplete white chevron similar to. as represented by a bull figured by Mr. while from the lower angle of each eye a white stripe runs inwards and downwards. although rather smaller than. Patterson's it specimen recalls the the giant eland. and no white stripe from the lower angle of the eye. dark-brown.

xxvn specimen was obtained turn out to be of the same type." As my eland the British its thus proved to be of some con- siderable scientific value. are only races of one and the same species. where it now is.316 THE MAN-EATERS OF TSAVO CH. While. . all I gladly presented to the Trustees. it will (which I consider unserve to show that the southern and sport ' ' northern elands are more nearly related than has hitherto been supposed. even if the present true specimen be only a likely). like the various local forms of giraffe and bonte-quagga. so sportsmen and naturalists might have an opportunity of seeing it at the Natural History Museum at South Kensington. that THOMSON'S GAZELLE. and as the authorities of Museum expressed a desire to possess it head. there will be a strong presumption that the and the giant eland.

APPENDIX .

.

the 6 and 8 sizes. couple of hundred rockets of various colours should certainly be taken. Leather bandoliers to sufficient for a three months' trip. The battery. each of these different cartridges would also prove carry 50 very useful.LS.WAR CANOE ON LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA. say. and a 12-bore shot gun and I should consider 250 rounds of '450 (50 hard . NKAR THE RIl'ON KAI. and 500 12-bore shot cartridges of. 300 rounds of '303 (100 hard and 200 soft). These can be obtained so as to fire from a 12-bore shot gun or from a short pistol. and 200 soft). and . to be sufficient for all needs. SPORTSMEN who think of visiting British East Africa on a shooting trip may be glad of a few general hints on points of interest and importance. as they are invaluable for signalling to A and from camp after dark. a '303 sporting rifle. should consist of a '450 express. APPENDIX i.

cartridges. soles . wash-leather gloves to protect the hands from the sun. charges a be preserved and produced for inspection. The rifles. The . duty on the so that the invoices should imported. PREPARING BREAKFAST IN CAMP. and rockets should be consigned to an agent in Mombasa. a couple of suits of khaki. House at Mombasa value of all articles 10 per cent.320 APPENDIX some should always be left with the camp neopara (Headman) for use as occasion requires. leather gaiters or a couple of pairs of puttees. and sent off from London in tinlined cases at least a month before the sportsman himself It must be remembered that the Customs intends to start. and two pairs of boots with long Norwegian boots will also be found very hemp useful. The hunter's kit should include a good pith sun-hat.

and will gladly give advice to and as these are the all as to light and time of exposure . filter boxes (food) and other necessary camp gear should be Chop . a Wolseley valise. and those who feel the sun should also provide themselves with a spine-protector. have achieved much success in my pictures without it. regards camp equipment. a hunting and skinning knife or two. two points which require most attention. who enthusiastic photographer. warm overcoat will be much appreciated up-country good in the cool of the evenings.APPENDIX underclothing worn in England is all that is if the shooting is to be done in the highlands. I myself and to Mr. three Jaeger blankets. and a light mackintosh for wet usual required A weather ought also to be included. With regard to the last item. Young on arriving at Nairobi. The latter is a useful article of kit. I made it a practice on my last visit to the country to send him the exposed films for development whenever I reached a postal station. D. most A well-filled medicine chest should of course not be forgotten. and a good and even these can be obtained just as good locally. hints from some one of experience in the country are most useful. am much indebted am sure should not in the country in 1898-99. taken when I was I I . the sun strikes down very fiercely towards midday. For use in rocky or thorny country. and I should recommend others to do the same. for although the air may be pretty cool. W. all that need be taken out from England are a small double-fly tent. Young's kindly advice. a pair of knee and elbow pads will be found invaluable. A good field glass. a collapsible bath. and a Kodak with about 200 films should also be carried. as films indeed I had deteriorate rapidly on the voyage home nearly four hundred spoiled in this way. As . I should strongly advise all intend to take photographs on their trip to pay a visit He is an to Mr.

322 obtained at APPENDIX Mombasa or Nairobi. should be sent to the agents. as equally good men can engage porters be obtained at Nairobi. provide before a start 1 The rupee sterling. carried over. though the exact numbers usually he intends going depend upon many considerations i i : Headman Cook Gun-bearer " 50 rupees 35 l per month. I should not advise anyone at Mombasa. thus saving 20 rupees per head in Unless money is to return railway fares. The sportsman will then find everything ready for him. as It must be remembered that for transport work men are infinitely preferable to donkeys. in British East Africa is on the basis of 15 to the i . stating the date of arrival and what porters. etc. and then reloaded on the animal's back. 20 12 2 Asian's (armed porters). where the agents will put up just what is necessary personally. each. if The caravan far for one from the railway is sportsman made up as follows. the Government taking a and according to custom small fee for the registration half the wages due for the whole trip are advanced to the The . blanket and water-bottle.. each porter with a jersey. About a month before sailing from England a letter . I found Messrs. i 1 20 Boy " (personal servant). will be required. where every load has to be unpacked. the latter are exasperatingly slow and troublesome. so that an immediate start may be made.. men The sportsman is obliged to is made. no object. 30 Porters 10 each. porters are all registered.. especially on rough ground or on crossing streams.. Newland and Tarleton of the latter place very reliable.

cotton shelter-tent and a cooking pot must A also be furnished for every five men. Mombasa. and to pitch and strike the Bwanas Y 2 . one kibaba. The food for the caravan is mostly rice. the issue of posho (food) to the porters. The cook is also an important member of the caravan. never tried one. Anybody I cannot securing him as Headman will be lucky remember his real name. In camp. boy and askaris one and a half kibabas. etc. It is the duty of the Headman to keep discipline on the safari (caravan journey). we managed drawback was that he could not speak English. the duties of the askaris are to keep up the fire and watch at night. It is wonderful what an experienced native uipeshi (cook) can turn out in the way of a meal in a few minutes after camp is pitched.APPENDIX " 323 while the gun-bearer and " boy get a pair of boots in addition. to secure a splendid neopara. and could easily be found by this name at . each . both in camp and on the march. and on him depends greatly the general comfort For our trip at the beginning of 1906.) per day the cook. the pitching and striking of camp. gun-bearer. but am told that they are inclined to be As troublesome . and to see to the distribution and safety of the loads. they certainly rate themselves very highly. I have gun-bearer. and never had the least trouble with the porters all the time. and a good one should be procured if possible. and demand about four times as much wages as an equally good Swahili. His only of the sportsman. most hunters prefer a Somali. of which the Headman gets two kibabas (a kibaba is about \\ Ib. but he was always known as M'zay. but he told me when he left us that he was going to learn. and the ordinary porters. He always brings up the rear of the caravan. " " per day.

They are each armed with an old snider rifle and 10 rounds of ball cartridge. . procure firewood and water. other brings up the rear they give assistance in the event of any trouble with the loads. see that no desertions take . so long as they are well but stint them of their rice. the (Master's) tent. the Swahili porter is . place. and generally do what they can to protect the caravan. loads and day out without complaint. rally it very dangerous men to their friends when they take day in into their heads to fire their weapons. The ordinary porters will carry their 6o-lb. they sulky mutineers. pitch and strike camp. and are gene- VIEW IN THE KENYA PROVINCE. On the whole. and they at once become fed In addition to carrying the loads.APPENDIX On the march one leads the caravan. and build grass huts if a stay of more than a day is intended to be made at one place. allow no straggling.

the best plan accommodation. cooking. "A FLYING VISIT IN A RICKSHAW TO KAMPALA. It may be that our sportsman intends to confine his shooting trip to the neighbourhood of the railway in this . These carriages. .APPENDIX 325 one of the jolliest and most willing fellows in the world. and I have nothing but praise for him. can be attached to almost any train." is to hire one of the special carriages from the Traffic Manager of the Uganda Railway. and moved from station to station or left standing in a siding This is the cheapest and at the directions of the hunter. and bath case. which have good sleeping.

O\V1. while he provides his own food neither is the asked to furnish him with a blanket. . such. and sportsman . in the Kenya " Cl. as no tent.AD IN LONG KI. jersey. the camp equipment.326 APPENDIX in most comfortable way of spending a short time country.N<. or regular porters are some quite good sport can be obtained into Again. Kikuyu porter in circumstances is a day. as many in from the official porters as he requires charge at Fort Hall. may be obtained The pay of the only t\vo annas . say.' Province. COTTON GARMENTS. if the hunter intends shooting. required and the bargain.

while those who are . but the fare is much for two years. single fare (First-Class) less is 42 IDS. There are various lines of steamers sailing to Mombasa- The steamers of the German East Ost-Afrika Linie) sail Africa Line {Deutsche from Marseilles or Naples. .APPENDIX 327 water-bottle so long as he is not taken out of his own Province. The voyage takes about eighteen days from Marseilles. The JIXJA. takes longer by this route. take about seventeen Maritimes. the ordinary fare. The return is double The Messageries 10 per cent. in fact. sailing The First-Class fare from London is 45 return. available voyage 67 los. days. being only 20 First-Class . is cheaper. from Marseilles. which can easily be ascertained on arrival in the country. Each Province is. governed as regards porters by its own special conditions. The British East The Africa Line sails from London about once a month.

Mombasa and Fairly good hotel accommodation can be had at both Nairobi.328 APPENDIX not pressed for time would probably enjoy calling in at the various ports en route. This license imposes an obligation on the sportsman to make a return before he leaves the country of every animal shot by him." out a Game License (costing the sum of . By obtaining a special Game License.50). Before any shooting can be done it is necessary to take " RUSHING OVER THE RIPON FALLS. which may be obtained without difficulty at either of these two centres. .

15 in this must be paid in "THE MIGHTY RIVER STRETCHING AWAY TO THE NORTH AMID ENCHANTING SCENERY. A one bull eland. in 329 be killed license. This fee of . advance." all is.C. of course. and is forfeited whether the animals are afterwards killed or not..APPENDIX one bull buffalo. . Fairly good Stanford's. and one bull giraffe may addition to the animals covered by the ordinary fee of 5 is charged for each of these bulls . while the Game Laws and Regulations can be procured from the Colonial Office in Downing Street. maps of the country may be obtained at Long Acre. additional to the $O for the ordinary license. W.

Kisumu and Entebbe are 92. including I consider that passage both ways. The First-Class return fares from Mombasa to Nairobi. and there cannot be lack of sport and trophies for the keen sliikari. 164]. though it usually takes twenty-seven. The heads and skins should be very carefully a matter of fact. The voyage round the Lake in one of the comfortable railway steamers takes about eight days. for the sportsman can easily learn this for himself and get the latest news of game movements on his arrival at Mombasa. Ward firm of Piccadilly. some twenty-one miles off. Nairobi at 11. traveller to long enough in Entebbe harbour to enable the energetic pay a flying visit in a rickshaw to Kampala. while the extravagant man spend very much more. I spent a most . and are timed to arrive at Wednesdays. the official capital of Uganda.m. As the whole country abounds in game. a trip to the Victoria Nyanza should certainly be made. than go to Rowland I have had mine set up by this and have always found their work excellent. 400 should cover the entire cost of a three months' shooting trip to East Africa.330 APPENDIX Mombasa at 1 1 a. For mounting his trophies I think. for years past.15 next morning and at Kisumu (the railway terminus on Lake Victoria Nyanza) at 9 o'clock on the morning following. the sportsman cannot do better. Passenger trains leave It is unnecessary to specify district by district where particular species of game are to be found. the native capital. on Mondays. but the crossing to Entebbe. sun-dried and packed in tin-lined cases with plenty of moth-killer for shipment home. will will doubtless do probably Should time be available. can be done in seventeen hours. and 213! rupees respectively. and Fridays. The frugal sportsman it on less. as at night the boats anchor for The steamer remains shelter under the lee of an island.

e. he at last looked upon it and thus solved one of the great problems of the ancients.. so that if the traveller avoids these he is quite as safe. .APPENDIX interesting 331 day last year in this way. as it is here that the Lake narrows into a breadth of only a few hundred yards. and had a chat with the boy King of Uganda. and one can well imagine how elated Speke must have felt when. and very bright and intelligentobjection to my taking his photograph. forms the long-sought-for source of the Nile. clad in long flowing cotton garments. river stretching is The magnificent view to the north away of the mighty amid enchanting scenery most inspiring. after enduring countless hardships. rushing over the Ripon Falls. and. infected fly. which in the past few years has carried off thousands of the natives. This place is of great interest. but unfortunately turned out a failure. It is He made no it curious to find the Baganda (i. people of Uganda) the majority are Christians surrounded as they are on all sides by nations of practically naked savages and it is a very interesting sight to watch them highly civilised . Jinja. Daudi Chwa. On the return journey from Entebbe. a port on the north side of the Victoria Nyanza. and busily engaged in bartering the products of the country under the shade of tattered umbrellas. at Kampala. which were once densely shores of the inhabited. as if he had remained in England. The disease is communicated by the is bite of an but happily this pest only found in certain well-defined regions. at Mengo. He was then about nine years old. is usually called at. Unfortunately the great scourge of the district round the in the " bazaar " Lake is the sleeping sickness. and has quite depopulated the islands. as regards sleeping sickness.

and although without a tongue. ferocious monkeys that attack men. . came it to this country of Africa. wild dogs. that a hunter or sportsman could desire. and Gorillas. size. camels. all animals . His is the knowledge of the known and of the unknown. nor father nor son. who is the Life. 103: THE NAME OF ALLAH.II The poem IN following is a literal translation of the Hindustani referred to on p. THE COMPASSIONATE : is must I speak to the praise and glory of God. THE MERCIFUL. forests abounding in and leopards buffaloes. Roshan. . I. being himself incomparable and passionless. black snakes. yet does he speak in mighty tones. and dense deer. and did find indeed a strange land Many lions rocks. He has no relatives. though without body or breath. enemies of man . First Who is without fault or error. spirits. black varieties of baboons of giant birds . mountains. who infinite and incomprehensible. rhinoceroses. all Also wolves. and thousands of and Wild horses. elephants.

and the people complaining of the deeds of the lions. they devoured all. the forests bordering on this " line. Because of the fear of these demons some seven or eight hundred of the labourers deserted. there are found those lions called are full man-eaters. And because of fear for their lives.APPENDIX The forests are 333 so dark and dreadful that even the boldest warriors shrink from their awful depths. Everyone of them kept afire burning at night. for the sake of their . Now from the town of Mombasa. but they were haunted by this terrible dread. weeping and wailing. Such was their habit. and left not a trace behind them. kept some ten or twenty goats. I my people. their hearts full of foreboding and terror. The lion's roar was such that the very earth would tremble at the sound. chief of will line." and moreover these forests of thorns and prickly shrubs. Roshan. a railway line extends unto Uganda In . and hundreds of men fell victims to these savage creatures. day and night. and remained idle Some two or three hundred still remained. and where was the man who did not feel afraid ? On would all sides arose sit and cry like cranes. whose very jaws were steeped in blood. would sit in their huts. I. and here these lions fell on the workmen and destroyed them. skin and blood. . Portions of this railway from Mombasa to Uganda are still being made. and none dared to close his eyes in sleep yet would some of them . Bones. the Prophet. flesh. and to our relate spiritual adviser. also complained and in prayed to God. be carried away to destruction. And now charge of the the story of the Engineer He milk .

fallen victims to Those who were proud or their lives uselessly . and destroyed them not one being left. And when took his gun and in very Patterson Sahib is indeed a brave and valiant man. So brave at his action is . and the valiant one has gone forth with his gun into the forest. injury . have but sacrificed But to-day himself! Patterson Sahib will watch for the lion For the people have complained loudly. For such has been the habit of lions from time immemorial. boastful. and groups of people have their fury. and said. Zal.334 APPENDIX But one night a wild beast came. Patterson Sahib loaded both barrels of his gun and went forth against him. he. most brave and of great strength is he. And in the morning it was reported by the watchman. . Soon after the people had retired at night to their tents. who also stated that the man-eater was daily destroying the labourers and workmen. like unto those Persian heroes of old Rustem. And after seeing what the animal had done. And they took the Engineer with them and showed him the footprints of the animal. that the greatest warriors stood aghast Tall in stature. From of those the other side of the line came the noise and cries who complained that these savage beasts were eating and destroying men. and doing great all. Sohrab and Berzoor . this For damage the lion shall pay his life." night came he truth destroyed the beast. the fearless lion made his appearance . young. the English- man " spoke.

Lions do not fears He fled. enjoy So the people had holiday and made merry with friends from whom they had been long parted. ! poet. the Prophet. the very essence of valour . to sinners God and criminals on the day of it is Oh thee . my children the night is dark. lion roared like thunder as the bullets found their is way to his heart. on account of the And then the Sahib said. This Englishman. " make lion : And the absence of those who had run away was forgiveness of forgiven. ever after us Roshan. bearing lights look at their dead enemy. and their money allowed them A generous action. while the bullets followed So was in despair.APPENDIX He The fired 335 many times in succession and totally paralysed the animal. and your spiritual ! adviser. safeguard you day and night . this man-eater rendered helpless ." And in the morning all the people saw the lion lying . the savage down. lions." holiday. all ran to But the Sahib said " Return. for the forest. their hands. leave this kind of simile. comparable to the and the Prophet judgment. too deep for We Oh ! mortals have the Devil. lion. in Now the people. hard after making him . Patterson. most brave. may God. Do not think of work to-day and be merry. do not rush into danger. a corpse. like unto a fierce . dead. and is indeed yet one glance from Patterson Sahib cowed the bravest of them. he lay down And beast after fell he had covered a chain's distance.

And when bullet. One in however. he saw the beast. the afternoon even until the following morning. . seven chains away. and fear came in its place : And the Sahib gave emphatic orders that no one should go out. he fired quickly. a peaceful being well.336 APPENDIX lion." he Now festival : this was the night of SIiab-i-Kadr. the lion appeared and remained from sunset to sunrise. All thought of sleep was banished. On the following day the Sahib sent for the people and warned them all to be careful of their lives . But again. bullet after a great uproar. lying wounded when the Sahib saw the animal he And incessantly . when unexpectedly the roaring sleep. but the bullets nevertheless found a resting-place in his heart. bullets . " Do not go out from said. remained. And Patterson Sahib went forth into the field meet him. and all for fear of him all went dread Sixteen days passed. we found the fired lion. the lion came to in a rage. a had Muslim And at night \vhen all retired to rest. and in great pain. lion The made everyone began to shriek and groan in their uneasy jumping up in fear. He kept on roaming about in the neighbourhood like a general reconnoitring the enemy's position. of the lion was heard. and fled for his life. on the seventeenth day. and everyone enjoyed mind . or roam about. And in the morning we followed the marks of blood that had flowed from the And And some five or wounded animal.

leaps and bounds close to the Sahib But here he was to meet his match in a brave Sahib who loaded his gun calmly. and the Sahibs were afraid But for the sake of our lives. in it might be converted into some suitable present. But the Sahib declined to accept the present. and offered the Sahib. . to order that was agreed to send all the money to England. such order to save our all the people appeared before the Sahib Roshan. and so suitably decorated. as to be acceptable to Patterson Sahib In colour it should resemble moon and sun and that would indeed be a fit present. Oh So then again the Punjaubis assembled. and fired again and again. pleased to accept it. burning with rage and pain. risking his collected many own life in the forest. . And .APPENDIX But when the lion 337 saw the Sahib. all this So they it trouble. in ! hundreds of rupees. 1 Foreman-mason. as a present to peril. killing Came by the beast. and consulted as how the service that the Sahib had done them could most suitably be rewarded. " You are our benefactor " saying. the Sahib was a All the Punjaubis assembled together and agreed that man who appreciated and cared for others. because he had undergone lives. many Englishmen had come here to shoot but had been disappointed. in the forests for our sake. in order to protect Previously. Which should bear an engraving of the two lions. and the name of the mistari^ head of the workmen. so much so that he roamed about us. Z . The present should be such. the savage animal. Patterson Sahib took . Because the lion was very courageous and ferocious. so that the Sahib would be it . not taking a pice of it.

sad and regretful. native of the village of Chajanlat. some accept this present for small reward for his My which native is in story as it Patterson Sahib has as I home is at Chajanlat. WA KIKUYU WARRIORS. 1899.338 APPENDIX I Oh! Roshan. and I shall miss him as long and now Roshan must roam about live. son Kadur mistaii Bakhsh. in Africa. Dakhli. left me. of Composed by Roshan Office itiistari. district of Jhelum. in the thana of Domli. and I have related this actually occurred. Post Domli. shooting action. Dated 29th January. hope that he as will the lions. the district of Jhelum. .

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55 P3. THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Santa Barbara THIS BOOR IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW. nrpn JUN? 19882.2. AIIG8 1988 REIDAUG9 198810 .

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