Insfrucion book for the PFAFF Sewing Machine (Model 130)
For best results, study these instructions carefully-particularly those parts on the care of the machine. Before leaving the factory your PFAFF was adjusted, carefully tested, and found to be perfect in every respect. If you follow the simple suggestions outlined here, you will enjoy your PFAFF... find it endlessly useful.., and, through-out the years be glad that your choice is the finest sewing machine in the world.

to help you get

I. Useful hins

the best results with your PFAFF

Use fine thread and a fine needle adjusted for loose tension when sewing thin, light fabrics. For ordinary lock stitch or zigzag seams, regulate the tension so that the interlacing of upper and under threads takes place in the center of the stitching. For making buttonholes, stitching on buttons, eyeletting rolling seams, and hemstitching, the tension of the under thread should be somewhat tight, since it is desirable to have the threads interlock more toward the underside of the fabric. Use unglazed thread for ordinary sewing, and soft yarn for embroidering, darning, etc. Since these yarns are smoother and more flexible than the hard and brittle glazed cotton, they assure well-drawn-in stitches, thus protecting the seams when the fabric is washed. Skipping of stitches may be caused by: 1. Needle not having been inserted properly. 2. Using other than the recommended PFAFF Needles. 3. Needle being bent by wrong handling, or too fine for the thread used.

Thread breaking may be caused by; 1. Any of the three reasons mentioned above. 2. Tension too tight. 3. Using bad or knotty thread. Bad stitches may be caused as a result of; 1. Tensions being too loose or too tight. Both tensions should be equal. 2. Using needles and threads that do not conform to the thickness of the fabric. Top and bottom thread should be the same. 3. Fluff having accumulated between the upper tension discs, or underneath the tension spring of the bobbin case.

Heavy working of the machine may be caused by:
1. The motor belt having become too loose after constant use, therefore, not pulling properly. In that case, the motor bracket has to be adjusted. 2. The motor belt being too tight. Do not over-tighten it. 3. The shuttle race being obstructed by fluff, which must be removed. 4. The machine having become clogged. Note the following instructions for proper oiling and cleaning.

II. To oil and clean the machine
Apply rust-proof grease on all nickel-plated and polished parts. This done, all greased parts should be cleaned with a clean rag. Then, apply a little PFAFF-Sewing Machine Oil at the oiling points marked with arrows in Figures 1, 2, and 3. 2

Fig. 1

Fig. 2 L4 .

Fig. 3 .

or has not been used for a long time. apply to the hook a drop of PFAFF Sewing Machine Oil. There should be as little pressure as possible on the presser bar-use just enough to feed the material. it thumb screw. Make it a rule to clean and oil the machine from time to time. call in qualified PFAFF mechanic. IV.After raising the presser foot. VERY IMPORTANT: Before using the machine for the first time. The needle If the needle is inserted incorrectly. and tear. IMPORTANT-When inserting a new needle. Keep the oil can clean. the top thread will jam in the hook. In general. Feeding If the material does not feed (move). especially when it has been in constant use. then tighten thewill cause SKIPPING needle is notand posin this way. 6 . If the of stitches. The correct way to install the needle is with the flat of the shank toward the hand lift. III. When in doubt. The needle plate should be taken off frequently and cleaned of accumulated fluff on the underside. turn presser bar pressure screw to the right to increase the pressure. run the machine for a little while without thread. follow this simple rule: Use a finer needle for finer thread and a heavier needle for heavier thread. wipe off the down-dripping oil and apply a drop of PFAFF Sewing Machine Oil to all points where there is friction. inserted sible needle breakage. Too much pressure causes excessive wear in feeder and foot. make sure that the needle thumb screw is loose enough to permit you to slide the needle all the way up to the stop pin.

Press down on winder catch 4 to lock bobbin in winding position. Place bobbin on winder spindle so that the single slot fits into the pin in the side of the winder spindle. so as to get used to this operation. around the tension discs 3. and into the lower hole of the take-up 7 down through thread guide 8 into guide above the needle 9-and thread needle from front to back. release is automatic. 5) Turn the machine back on its hinges. Now you are ready to wind bobbin. tighten lock screw-and you're ready to sew. release latch again and the bobbin will drop right out.1. Draw thread down between tension disc 2 to the bobbin placed on winder spindle 3. around circular guide 2. 2. To remove the bobbin. To wind the bobbin (Fig. 6) For beginners it is suggested that the balance wheel be disconnected so that the machine will not turn. and through check spring 4. (Fig. When bobbin is full. 7 . Open latch in bobbin case by grasping latch between thumb and forefinger (it is easier with the left hand)-and pull. draw through hook guide 1. The bobbin case comes right out. Place spool of thread I on either spool holder (1). press winder disconnect lever 5. Turn on power until bobbin is wound. 4). If you do not wish to wind the bobbin to capacity. Practice a few times. Threading Ale needle Put spool on spindle. the balance wheel can remain connected if desired so that a bobbin can be wound while sewing on a garment. 3. Insert needle with flat shank to back. Wind thread around the bobbin a couple of times away from you. To remove bobbin case (Fig. To "t the nedie LOOSEN lock screw above needle clamp. For experienced operators. around guides 5 and 6. 4.

V Bt 6 I Fig. 4 .

Fig. 5 9 .

6 10 .Fig.

With bobbin case latch opened. Fig. away from you. Push down bobbin case with thumb to make sure that case is lacked in position. To commence Sewing IMPORTANT-Turn wheel towards you to pickup bobbin thread. between thumb and forefinger. slip bobbin into center hook and drop latch back. Turn machine back on its hinges exposing base for bobbin case. under tension spring 2. and draw the thread through the bobbin case slot 1. Allow needle to descend and rise once.5. The under thread then appears in the form of a loop out of the needle hole. 7 6. Draw both upper and lower thread ends under the presser fot and to the rear. 1t . 7) Slip bobbin into bobbin case. To replace bobbln caseo (Fig. Then lower presser foot by means of presser foot lever.

as illustrated in Fig. give a slight pressure with your knee against the knee control-or against the foot control on some portable models. If the upper tension is too tight. the under thread is drawn up. as a result of the proper adjustment of both tensions. it will become looser. (Or turn the wheel to complete the stitch. At the some time. forming little knots or loops as shown in Fig. 7. To remno the work Stop the machine.To protect presser foot and feed. Cut the thread close to the material on the thread cutter. 8. the under thread will pull down the upper thread. If the upper tension is too loose. Turn the balance wheel toward you until the take-up (see section on threading the needle) is at its highest point. (you can best judge this tension for yourself by pulling the thread gently with your hand when you have threaded the machine through the tension spring). (On lifting the presser foot. Unscrewing it. Having adjusted the tension for a certain kind of thread. 8.) Raise presser foot. 4). With the cloth inserted and the presser foot lowerec( turn the balance wheel toward you. 12 . 9 Fig. counterclockwise.) Draw the cloth to the rear of the needle. just glance at the number marked in the bell behind the tension nut. 10 shows the locking in the two threads in the center of the material. never operate machine without placing fabric under the presser foot. the tension is automatically released. Turning this screw clockwise. the tension will become tighter. and note its relative position. (Fig. To regulate the tension of the upper thread The tension of the upper thread is regulated by means of tension nut (M).

The numbers above zero are for forward stitching. and tighten the small tension screw (Z) in a clockwise direction with the aid of the screw driver. In the zero-(or neutral). To regulate tension of th under thread If the tension is too loose. unscrew it in a counterclockwise direction. 13 . 11). (Fig. 5). there is no feeding at all. 9 Fig. 10 9. the space below for reverse stitching. 10. take the bobbin case out of the machine (Fig. (Fig. If the tension is too tight.position. 6). To regulate the length of stitch The length of the stitches is regulated by the stitch regulator screw. 8 Fig.Fig.

Position one is the smallest stitch.mal position. 12) is pressed against the body of the machine. The Dial-A-Stitch If the nose of the Dial-A-Stitch lever (G). will sew still farther to it the right. is on point zero of the scale. When you have chosen the size of stitch you want. and push up to desired position from 1 to 5. (G). is turned to the left. 12). (Fig. below position zero. the machine is performing the straight stitch. The width of the zigzag stitch is increased asthe lever. (G). bringing the width of the zigzag stitch up to a maximum of 11/64". 11 Loosen regulator screw. the machine will sew to the right of the stitch made in the nor. If lever H (Fig. to the left.machine is doing the zigzag stitch. It will automatically sew the some size stitch in reverse. simply push the locked screw downward. and then shifted down into position II. To sew in reverse. If you turn the lever. continuing the same kind of stitch for which the 14 . 11. tighten the screw. the .z Fig. In position III.

opart and clean the kook (Fig. the needle might be bent or broken. B Fig.dial is set. If the machine is not running. This is useful for applique. 12 12. or the size of the zigzag stitch should not be changed. and sewing on buttons. To tak. lint or dust have gotten inside the hook. 13) If pieces of thread. embroidery. straight sewing. Otherwise. impeding the action of the machine. the shifting procedure should not be made. unless the need. it is necessary 15 . buttonholes. is malted. fancy stitching.

13 16 . E-2. and take off the hook bow. Unscrew these. Replace the hook bow. and screw the three screws back Fig.to remove the upper and lower parts of the bobbin case. Replace lower bobbin case. and E-3. Clear out the dirt with a cloth. and turn the balance wheel gently until the lower case slips out. Grasp center hook between thumb and forefinger. it is necessary to use great care so as not to lose them. Turn the balance wheel so as to see clearly screws EI. and put a drop of oil on the running surface under the case. as It will damage the part. NOTE: Since these screws are extremely small. Do not force it.

Turn it right to lower the feed. the feed can be lowered by turning the knob (X). (Fig. 16. 13. 17 . When working on thick or hard materials. 14. replaced free of charge.into position. The direction for turning the lever is indicated by "" for loose (light). do not force it-cal'for Parts damaged by force will not be your mechanc. ease the tension of the thread controller spring a little more than in the case of sewing. the tension should be tighter. (Fig. turn the lever of the tension sleeve as shown in Fig. turn it left to raise the feed. b) indicating the normal position. and to regulate it for the type of material used. If this is difficult. 4. on the front right-hand side of the bed plate. To tighten the tension. 6). These are finely machined. 4). The needle Make sure that you use the PFAFF needles designed for your mohine-Needle Series 130 R. and are availIto11. To regulafe pressure of the presser fool Screw or unscrew the bushing (V). and "F" for fast (tight). To lower the feed For darning and embroidering. to increase or decrease pressure of the presser foot. Adjusting the tension of the thread confroller spring For embroidering and darning. a) indicating the position for darning and embroidering. 15. for the most delicate to the heaviest acle in sizes sewing. tempered and polished steel. c) indicating the position for sewing thick and hard materials.

Fig. holding it firmly in place between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand and tighten the screw.or four-hole buttons. No. 14). 46120 for sewing on two. 16 18 . This should remain on your machine most of the time. and lift presser foot out to the left. 16 and 17) Use foot No. 15). The PFAFF comes equipped with a hinged presser foot. To replace it.45037. 15 17. 44088 (Fig. loosen the screw. for snaps. which is used for these purposes. 18). To remove it. (Fig.NO ATTACHMENTS ARE NEEDED for all normal sewing and most types of fancy sewing. Fig. 14 44088 44088 Luse 45037 45037 dard type of presser foot. 46120 46120 Fig. Sewing on bufions (Fig. Lower the feed. hooks and small bone or metal rings. is included for those who prefer to it. slip it back into position. No. Lower lever H of the Dial-A-Stitch into position III with dial set as far to the right as possible. (Fig.

so that needle passes through center of right hole of the button. 19 . leave the needle at the right and adjust the machine for straight stitches of which a few will suffice to lock the stitch. place the fabric with the button as far back as necessary to permit fastening the second pair of holes. under button foot. At the lost stitch. Then adlust the zigzag stitch with the dial so that the needle posses through the center of the left hole of the button. 18 With stitch regulator set between 1 and 2. 17 Fig. To fix the button to the fabric.Fig. place button on fabric. too. When stitching on buttons having four holes. four or five double stitches will do.

42297. (Buttonholes can be made with or without cord The cord used can varied. 5). With Dial-A-Stitch lever H in position stitch regulator between zero and one. adjust Adjust the fineness of the zigzag stitch with screw B. depending on your choice. towards the rear. 19 and 20) Screw on buttonhole foot. 19 20 . Butonholes (Fig. 12). draw the cord through the hole in the buttonhole foot. No. The length of the buttonhole should be marked in pencil on the fabric.18. For corded buttonhole. I. The tension of the upper and under thread must be tightened to obtain a well drawn-in stitch. from the finest be to Pearl Cotton No. to the left of Fig. (Fig.

Now. clockwise. 20 21 . When this is done. This makes neater buttonholes. Fig. Keep the work clean. according to the heaviness of cording used. so that the edge now lies at the right of the needle. Then lower the presser bar and allow the needle to make one more stitch to the left. if the zigzag is set at number two. parallel with the cord guide. the first edge is sewn to the marked length. raise the presser bar and swing the fabric half around. leave the needle at the right side of this edge in the fabric. After these preparations. this is adequate for most cardings.the dial. Cut off excess cord.

leave the needle in the fabric to the left. This must be performed with care to avoid damaging the buttonhole threads. being sure that the needle is raised before switching the zigzag lever. 19. (Fig. An additional variety of effects is produced by alternating seams to the right and left of center. push lever H down. To make the bar. On makinp the last stitch of the bar. 21). and while doing these. 22 . The cutting of the buttonhole is made with the buttonhole knife. By skillfully alternating straight and zigzag stitches of varying width and length. the wider zigzag stitch for the first bar tack is set. to sew right of center. To sew left of center. Now sew edge two. In this way. 41350. the fabric must be held somewhat to reduce the forward feeding. No. This second bar tack made. (Fig. bring the needle up and push lever G back into its first groove in the position in which you sewed the first edge. four to five zigzag stitches are necessary. For parallel seams use the edge stitcher with ruler. 22). Readjust the lever into the second groove to make the second bar tack. push lever H up. Colored thread is often used to enhance the appearance of the work. Ornamental seams For plain and straight ornamental seams use the normal presser foot. you can make any number of attractive patterns-especially interesting as dress decorations. Then. again raise the needle and push lever G back to the farthest position on the right and make some plain stitches to lock the threads. Raise the needle and push lever G into its second groove by turning it to the left. Insert either the narrow or the broad blade into the holder and fasten it by tightening the screw.The needle is now in the fabric at the left of the cord.

Cut the projecting edge off carefully with a pair of scissors. small to . Fold the edge as required and baste if necessary. Then cover the folded edge with zigzag stitches. 21 20 Overedged hems Overedged hems are very popular for trimming ladies' and children's dresses. at a stitch length of 1/16th inch.Fig.medium-small. underwear. 23 . etc.

(Fig. with the cloth to be appliqued extending 1/16th inch beyond the edge of the design. 22 An additional ornamental seam. Applique work Trace the design on both fabrics. Place the cutting on the fabric so that it corresponds to the pattern. adds a handsome effect. 21.Fig. parallel to the edging. 23). and baste it on. 24 .

23 25 .Fig.

Then reinforce the seam with a wider and more dense zigzag seam. 24 and 25). 26 . 25 Follow the lines of the design with a narrow and not too dense zigzag stitch. 24 Fig.Fig. (See Fig. and cut the projecting edges off the cutting.

(Fig. In the case of finer fabrics such as voile and cambric. etc. the lace is applied 1/16th inch from the edge. 41621. (Fig. 41621. 41621 41621 Fig. 26). 27 27 . Running on lace This is done with the regular sewing foot. use foot No.or a more raised effect is desi- If a cord is to be appliqued. unless cord is to be used. The edge of the lace is then covered with zigzag stitches and the projecting fabric cut off. 26). With strong fabric such as linen. and basted on if necessary. the lace is sewn on with straight stitches as above des- Fig. 26 22. use the special cording foot No. red. This is available at extra cost. shirting. If so.

together so that the lower layer the right side. 29 Felling (Fig. 27). Then guide the two just as when hemming. 41242. 41746. a special foot. 28 Fig. is available at extra cost. This curls the edge of the fabric under as the lace is sewn on. Even hems (Fig. use the Place the two fabrics projects about I/. with the machine set for straight zigzag stitch. If special. 41248. No. 41246.. 30) Even hems are sewn by using hemming foot. or with the larger hemming foot. No.cribed. (Fig. (Fig. and the projecting fabric cut off. clean-edge lace borders are desired for sewing curtains. The lower . With light tension and medium-sized zigzag stitches. or letting it go forward. 23. bed linens. For felling. 28). With tight tension and broad zigzag stitches an undulating rolled hem is obtained." on pieces into the feller. Then the projecting edge of the fabric is folded under. the double edge is covered with zigzag stitches. (Fig. By holding the lace back. No. lace borders can be shirred or sewn on flat. the rolled edge of the fabric remains even and smooth. Special effects are obtained by using thread of different shades. 28 24. etc. (Fig. 29). 31). In this manner. 32) felling foot No. opening of the fabric is made impossible. 41144 41246 441248 Fig. especially desirable in the case of knitted silk goonds.

Fig. 32. Now iqfold the two pieces of cloth as shown in Fig. and sewn to the top piece. 30 $41242 4 41242 Fig. and once more guide the edge thus formed through the feller. use the straight lack stitch. flatten the seam. except for thin or elastic fabrics and knitted goods.fabric is then folded once. 32 29 . When felling. which require a medium-sized zigzag stitch for good strong seams. 31 Fig.

30 Fig. 33 .

(Fig. It is helpful to use an embroidery ring in any convenient size. 34 Fig. use soft.25. 34 31 . Raise the presser bar. the thread tension is re-established. as shown in Fig. If large parts are to be mended. inserting a fresh piece of fabric. 40 to 80 depending on the thickness of the fabric. and fastening it with zigzag stitches. By lowering the presser bar lever. we recommend cutting out the damaged pieces. Eabrkg mand danng Remove the presser foot and lower the feed. For darning. mercerized cotton No. and with the short end into hole (C) of the face plate. 33). place wire clamp (A) with its bent end wound the shank of foot screw (B).

28. 41842. in addition to the cording foot. Embroidery yarn No. 27. 36). The length of stitch depends on the effect you wish to bbtain. may be used Crochet yarn No. to assure a uniform appearance. The two edges where the threads have been drawn must now be sewn with narrow zigzag stitches. (as shown in Fig. Ruffling Ruffling is done with the same type of cording mentioned above. with a medium zigrzag stitch. and that the length of stitch is the same as on the first edge. Henstitching (Fig. 35). The fabric con now be puckered together for uniform ruffling. Sew the cord on the line you have traced. just as if hemstitching by hand.26. All of these are available at a slight extra cost. No. (See Fig. This. 32 . and tighten it after completing the seam. Soft cording effects can be obtained by using a filler thread. When sewing the second edge. and place the fabric under the presser foot. For this work an embroidery ring is very useful. 41319 with five grooves. make sure that the same threads are covered. to prevent the ruffling from becoming undone. The opposite end of the cord must be fixed. using the regular presser foot. Covered cords Covered cords are made with the feed cover plate and cord guide No. sewing silk. Fasten one end of the filler thread. or standard sewing cotton. 37) First draw the threads according to the pattern. 3 or 5 can serve as cord. Pass the crochet yarn through the cording guide. is done with smaller zigzag stitches. 40.

35 33 .Fig.

36 34 .Fig.

37 35 .Fig.

38 30.PkM# edging Picot edging is obtained by cutting the above hemstitched hem along the center. 46261 X 1. This type of edging is used to prevent the unravelling of the plain cloth-edge. Railed hems Rolled hems are produced with the aid of sewing foot No. Use small zigzag stitches to ensure a neat effect. Fig. 38).36 .2. 39).5 (Fig. . (Fig.

Fig. is rerommended. 41) Scalloped rolled hems on knitted goods are made with foot No. Fig. In this case.4"261 x 1. the rolled hem described above is too thick. 41 32. 40 31. 46261 x 3. Scalloped roiled hems (Fig. 37 . 42) On neck pieces and lingerie strops of heavy knit goods. The scalloped form of the hem is the result of the wide zigzag stitch sewn with firm tension. 26862. the making of a scalloped edge with edge stitcher No. available at extra cost. No. The latter one is available at slight extra cost. Scalloped edge (Fig. 39 Fig. 41350 and the ruler with cording guide.

Lower needle-bar until the top of the eye of the needle is level with the top of the base of the hook. 38 . Now the height of the needle bar is set. Make sure dial is set on zero. Loosen needle-bar clamp lockscrew. and lock with needle-bar clamp lock-screw. Mechanical Adjustments (These are suggested only for those who have complete mechanical familiarity with the machine.Fig. 42 V.) 1. and you can proceed with the timing of the hook. Turn hand wheel until needle bar is at lowest point. Settling the Height of ihe Needle Bar Remove the face plate. and lever (H) is set in center. Hold needle bar so that it does not move.

... 9.... Useful hints .. Turn hand wheel until needle bar is on extreme left..2 6 6 7 7 7 7 11 11 12 12 13 13 14 15 39 .. 3.. To commence sewing .. .. .. ... To replace bobbin case .... 4... 10......... Hold it there and turn hand wheel in direction of rotation (towards front of machine) until the top of the eye of the needle is approximately 1/32" below the bottom of the point of the hook. The Dial-A-Stitch .... To take apart and clean the hook ...... To regulate the tension of the under thread ....... Now the hook is timed...2......... 2...... 8. Feeding 1........... IV... To remove bobbin case ..... 12. To wind the bobbin ..... To set the needle .. 11.... Threading the needle ... and at the lowest point.... To oil and clean the machine Ill... Index I... To remove the work .. To regulate the tension of the upper thread ..... To regulate the length of stitch ... and lock the hook in position on the hook shaft.... Loosen the two lock-screws of the hook and take off base stop.... 5. . Replace base stop.... . 7............... Bring the hook as close as possible to the needle without touching the needle.... The needle .............. and push it towards the front of the machine until you ve got a least 1/32" or more clearance between the base stop and the base... II... Timing of ihe Hook Set zigzag dial on Position 4 (widest stitch)...... 6.. I 2.. Bring the point of the hook around to the needle....

.. 32 . ...... 28.. 18 17... . 23....... .. To regulate pressure of the presser foot 14..... 1. .. The needle . . .. . ....... Picot edging . . .. ... . Ornamental seams . .. . . ... .. . . ... 23 . . .. Timing of the Hook 38 38 39 Printed in Germany N......... 32 .. Setting the Height of the Needle Bar . ... . 28 . . Felling . . 22. ..... . . 16... V.. . 31.. . . ... . ...... ... 26 Covered cords . . 37 . 17 .. . 29.. . ......... .. ..... Embroidering and darning . .. 32 . 24. ... 20. 2..... . .... ..... 28 . Even hems ... . 17 . .. 32. .... .. . Scalloped edge . . . Buttonholes 22 19.. 27. Ruffling ... . . Running on lace ... . ... . .. 17 15. Applique work ... . Scalloped rolled hems . 27 ....... Sewing on buttons . . . . .... .. 37 . Rolled hems .. .. .17 13. 723 P 954 40 . 30. Mechanical adjustments ... . .. Adjusting the tension of the thread controller spring .... Overedged hems ..... To lower the feed .. . .... .. 21.. .. 36 36 . 20 18..... 25 . .31 25.... . ..... Hemstitching .

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