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External Cladding

External Cladding

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Published by: Kamble Ravi on Jul 09, 2011
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P A R T

EXTERIOR CLADDING
The exterior surfaces form the skin of the house, and are referred to as cladding. Cladding components include—
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wall surfaces I soffits and fascia I windows and doors I trim, flashings, and caulking There are many different styles and materials in exterior cladding. You will learn how to recognize each of these materials, how they tend to fail, and what to advise your client. We will also discuss tips and techniques for inspecting cladding. Some issues related to siding are not covered in detail in this part because—
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they are not usually accessible for inspection I there are different requirements among various siding products, jurisdictions, and manufacturers You may want to research your local requirements for each siding material.

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C H A P T E R AN OVERVIEW OF WALL SURFACES LEARNING OBJECTIVES 1 By the end of this chapter you should know: I I I ten types of exterior siding material six components of a typical wall assembly four common problems that crop up on any exterior wall system 7 .

wind. They also provide thermal insulation and have a long life expectancy. and hardboard metal products. including several types of cladding. including shingles and shakes. easy to install. 1. and concrete block poured concrete stucco (either over wood frame or masonry) synthetic stucco (EIFS. stone. have great cosmetic appeal. They are also designed to carry the dead load of the siding and the live load of wind. and vermin entry. including steel and aluminum vinyl asphalt shingles slate and clay tiles fiber-cement The best wall systems are highly resistant to water. and low maintenance. OSB. cement board. These include— I I I I I I Structural Members structural members—studs or masonry. plank siding. typically insulation and an air/vapor barrier (usually on the interior side of the insulation) sheathing—wood plank. gypsum board. Our discussions here are focused on weather-tightness. 1. We don’t get to see much of the wall structure during an inspection. We think of the exterior as a weather-tight skin for the building. . let’s briefly review typical wall assemblies (Figure 1. OSB. or Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems) wood products.8 Part I Exterior Cladding INTRODUCTION In this chapter we are going to look at exterior wall surfaces. poured concrete.1 summarizes the characteristics of some common wall coverings. including— I I I I I I I I I I Ideal Wall Claddings masonry products such as brick. mechanical damage.1).2 WALL ASSEMBLIES Before we look at individual sidings. and provide good security. fiberboard.1 MATERIALS AND CHARACTERISTICS There are many siding materials. building paper or housewrap siding Structural members include wood frame and masonry walls. Most sidings do only some of these things well. for example interior finishes—plaster or drywall. etc. plywood. They are inexpensive. Table 1. plywood. These are designed to carry the live and dead loads from floors and roofs. There are no perfect siding materials.

bulging • Allowing water into walls • Coming off in sheets • Rot. Wind) • Varies • Brick is porous Good. Snow. but vulnerable at joints Good Strength (Resistance to Mechanical Damage) Good Structural Properties (Capable of Carrying Loads) Yes Surface Type Brick Stone Concrete Stucco Cost High Insulating Value Poor Maintenance Requirements Low. unless unpainted or unstained Low Low Most Common Failure Modes • Spalling • Cracking • Missing mortar • Cracking.TABLE 1.1 Characteristics of Various Wall Surfaces Weather-Tight (Water. but vulnerable at joints • Fair • Joints/edges vulnerable • May swell Good Good Fair No No No High Medium Low Poor Poor Poor Low Low High An Overview of Wall Surfaces Hardboard and OSB Fair No Low Poor Low to High • Needs regular painting or staining unless prefinished 9 . unless painted Low. etc. Clay Tiles Fiber Cement Plywood Fair No Medium Good Fair No Medium Poor Good Good Fair to poor Fair to poor No No Low Low Poor Poor (insulated metal slightly better) Poor Good Poor No Low Low Chapter 1 Good Good Good. unless painted Low.) Vinyl Metal (Aluminum and Steel) Asphalt Shingles Slate. splits • Cupping. curling • Burn-through • Rot • Cracking • Mechanical damage • Loose and missing pieces • Denting • Loose and missing pieces • Tearing • Curling • Surface wearing off • Pieces breaking off or slipping out of place • Pieces breaking off or slipping out of place • Needs regular painting or staining • Rot • Swelling • Fungus • Cracking Fair No Medium Poor • EIFS is good Poor Wood Shingles and Shakes Wood Siding (Clapboard. unless painted or stained High.

since most interior finishes provide adequate rigidity. Many modern buildings do not rely on sheathing to prevent racking. or it can be mounted on either side of the wall structure behind exterior or interior finishes. Again. Some sheathings are rigid insulation board.. It adds rigidity to the structure to help prevent racking.10 Part I Exterior Cladding FIGURE 1. we don’t get to see much of the insulation or air/ vapor barrier. They also help to separate the indoor environment from the outdoor environment by restricting air movement through the wall. Sheathings provide a substrate for building paper and help to reduce air movement through the wall assemblies. The air-transported moisture is the more important of these two mechanisms.1 Wall Assemblies Structural members (studs in this case) Insulation Sheathing (e. Their primary function is to control heat loss. Many sheathings are vapor permeable or have loose fit joints. which would reduce the effectiveness of the insulation . plywood) Vapor barrier (interior side of insulation in cooler climates) Interior finish (e.g. and the builder’s or homeowner’s commitment to energy conservation and low energy costs. Sheathing has traditionally been provided on the exterior of wood frame walls. the local building requirements.g. drywall) Building paper or housewrap Siding u Fo a nd tio n Flashing Sill gasket Interior Finishes Insulation and Air/Vapor Barriers Sheathing Insulating Sheathing Building Paper or Sheathing Paper Interior finishes are largely cosmetic and provide the base for the interior decoration. so they won’t trap moisture moving out through the wall. although they are found in most areas. The functions of building paper (also called building felts or sheathing paper) include— I protecting the wall from water that gets past the siding I helping to prevent wind blowing into the wall system. The insulation can be between the studs in a wood frame wall. The amounts of insulation installed vary depending on the climate. Insulation and air/vapor barriers are more important in cold climates than in warm climates.. Many older homes have no insulation or air/vapor barrier in the walls. Moisture is carried through walls by the air that leaks through and by vapor diffusion (no air movement needed).

There are exceptions to this. These are typically spun polyolefin fabrics that are designed to protect against water that gets through the siding and against wind blowing into the wall system. such as studs. against wind and water penetration. concrete) must be supported on foundations and footings . Stucco is typically held in place with wire mesh that is nailed through building paper and sheathing.2). are usually held in place with nails. we won’t be able to see whether building paper or housewrap was used behind the siding. FIGURE 1. concrete block. Proponents of housewraps maintain that these are more effective than building paper. These heavier systems include stone. including wood. Housewraps also need to be breathable so that vapor moving out through the wall system won’t be trapped and condense in the wall assembly. vinyl. and fibercement. fiber-cement. asphalt. Siding is typically attached through the building paper and sheathing to structural members. synthetic stucco. or metal siding where all joints are protected against wind and water penetration. and brick. stone. concrete. Again. plywood. Masonry veneer sidings are held against walls with metal ties. being largely replaced by housewraps. Some wall surface systems must rest on the building foundations and footings because of their weight (Figure 1. in most cases. metal. Many sidings. Building paper is. in many areas. These ties have several different shapes and sizes. Most sheathings are not strong enough to support the siding itself with conventional fasteners. Some argue that there are very few systems that provide 100 percent protection. Those people maintain that sheathing paper should be provided in all cases: the sheathing paper provides a backup or second line of defense against moisture penetration. Lighter sidings are hung on the building frame.2 Support for Siding Brick ties are for lateral support only Lighter sidings can be supported by the building frame Sheathing Building paper Sheathing Wire lath Stucco Masonry veneer Joist Joist Foundation Foundation Flashing Drip screed Heavy sidings (brick.Chapter 1 An Overview of Wall Surfaces 11 I Not Always Required allowing vapor moving through the wall from indoors to escape to the exterior (building paper must breathe) Housewrap Siding Connectors Masonry Ties Stucco Support for Siding Sheathing paper may not be required under hardboard. especially at joints. clay. slate.

3 Condensation in Walls Outside Inside Outside Inside Insulation Drywall Warm.12 Part I Exterior Cladding 1. Water may also be a problem in wall systems if warm. If the siding is deteriorating. let’s look at some of the issues that apply to all types of wall surfaces. moist air Cool air Cool air Warm. Rainwater may enter wall systems in several ways. 3. vapor barrier.3. 6. 2.1 Water Penetration CAUSES Condensation IMPLICATIONS Concealed Damage Most serious wall problems are related to water in one way or another.3). They include— 1. moist air Exterior sheathing Condensation Condensation Floor framing Floor framing Summer Cross section Siding.3 GENERAL STRATEGY Now. You should watch for water damage to wall systems. Smaller amounts of condensation may also form if moisture moves into the walls by vapor diffusion. Water penetration Too close to grade Too close to roofs Planters and gardens against the wall Vines Insulation problems 1. there is a good chance FIGURE 1. and sheathing paper not shown Winter . moist air moving through the wall (from indoors in cold weather and from outdoors in warm weather) is cooled and deposits condensation inside the wall system (Figure 1. 5. although in many cases you won’t be able to see it. It may be driven by wind or it may enter by gravity or by capillary action. 4.

g. FIGURE 1. However. 1. the water getting into the wall system will show up on interior finishes. The ability of a wall system to dry often determines the amount of damage done to the cladding and the structure. at least not in the early stages. for example. Wall systems with sidings with good drying potential. Your inspection of the inside of the building should focus on the vulnerable areas that you noticed outside. metal or vinyl siding and synthetic stucco) the siding looks fine while the sheathing and wall structure behind are deteriorating. may be less likely to suffer damage than synthetic stucco. This means that we can see some of the foundations above grade and below the siding. Brick veneer systems with vented rain screens have good drying potential. whereas most stucco systems do not. in many cases (e. As you look at exterior wall surfaces.3. Second. allowing you to confirm your suspicions. look first at the cladding materials and see if they’re in good repair.2 Too Close to Grade Wall cladding materials should be 6 to 8 inches above grade to protect the cladding system and the structure from water damage (Figure 1. However. damage to wall assemblies doesn’t always show up on the building interior.4). In some cases. we want to see them.Chapter 1 An Overview of Wall Surfaces 13 Drying Potential STRATEGY that there is some damage behind it. People may not like the appearance of exposed foundations. such as aluminum or vinyl. but from a functional standpoint. try to determine how water might get into the wall system and whether there are any areas where you might reasonably suspect concealed damage. Pay attention to the drying potential of the wall system. Foundations are designed to withstand the moisture in the soil. which has poor drying potential.4 Too Close to Grade Wall framing 8" minimum clearance for siding and stucco Floor framing 6" minimum clearance for masonry Foundation wall Slop e for drai nag e Finish grade Building paper not shown ..

Water won’t be able to drain out.5). but allow for the possibility that it may be the correct type. If the siding is too close to grade because the grade has been elevated to form a garden. but there are bigger problems if this is the case. The more serious and concealed implications are the damage to the wall and floor structures behind the siding. This includes rot and insect damage at sheathing.14 Masonry Part I Exterior Cladding Other Sidings CAUSES Masonry should usually be at least 6 inches above grade. veneer walls with weep holes and flashings along the bottom course suffer dramatically if the weep holes are below grade (Figure 1. and vinyl. Damage to interior finishes and components is also possible. You’ll be able to tell on older buildings whether the brick was designed for use below grade by looking for damage. Siding materials too close to grade are typically the result of— I poor original construction and landscaping I grade levels altered during landscaping or surface water control work It’s possible that the siding is too close to grade because the building is settling. it’s hard to know. including wood and wood-based products. How far above grade is the top of the wall? The foundation wall may be too short to allow the siding to end 6 to 8 inches above grade. This is less disruptive and expensive. air won’t be able to get in. Sometimes damage is not visible until it is serious. This is the more serious situation. stucco. . for example. and moisture may seep from the soil into the building through weep holes. metal. sill plates. or cracking wood-based products peeling paint staining rusted fasteners rusted lath and drip screed on stucco STRATEGY The Worst Case A Better Case In some cases. This may include— I I I I I I I I Weep Holes Covered IMPLICATIONS spalling (crumbling or flaking) and cracked brick and missing mortar obstructed weep holes in masonry veneer rotted wood swollen. the solution may be to restore grade level to its original position. buckled. If possible. Most other sidings. It’s easy to recognize the damage to the wall cladding materials. Note the areas where siding is too close to grade and check inside the building for evidence of water leakage and damage. Check around the building perimeter for adequate clearance between siding and grade. Try to find the top of the foundation wall. We can’t remove soil and create a trench around the house because we’ll have a chronic flooding problem as surface water is funneled against the house. are designed for use at and below grade. but this can be very disruptive and expensive. The foundation is ideally raised to solve the problem. studs. On new homes. fibercement. for example. There are exceptions because some bricks. look first for damaged siding. This may be the first indication that there is a problem. Can you see part of the foundation? Where the siding is below or too close to grade. should be at least 8 inches above grade. You should describe any new brick within 6 inches of grade as suspect. probe to look for damage to the structural members behind. and floor joists. Severe spalling can occur. headers.

It’s also true where the bottom of the siding intersects a roof (Figure 1.3. especially if the moisture in the brick freezes. The best practice is to keep the siding material 2 inches above the roof. There should be a weep hole (missing vertical mortar joint) about every fourth brick along or near the bottom of the wall. and plywood draw moisture into the wood enthusiastically. It’s common to see siding deterioration along a roof/wall intersection. CAUSES IMPLICATIONS . Paint may peel. Look to see if these have been buried. Brick may crack and spall. 1. the solution may be to remove the bottom few inches of siding. We’ve talked about this with respect to grade level. End grains of wood and cut edges of hardboard. Wood and wood-based products are particularly vulnerable to moisture wicking up into and damaging the siding. Masonry veneer walls typically have weep holes and flashings near the bottom of the wall.Chapter 1 FIGURE An Overview of Wall Surfaces 15 1. Most sidings discolor if they are chronically wet. water damage to the siding and possibly to the structure behind are the implications.6). Again. OSB. Buried weep holes can lead to considerable damage to the brick veneer and the structure. There are step flashings under the siding and roof.5 Weep Holes below Grade Masonry veneer Stud wall Wate r Grade le vel Wood gets wet and rots Joist Water gets in and air can’t get out Weep hole Foundation Cross section Another Better Case Masonry Veneer Walls If the siding has simply been installed too low.3 Too Close to Roofs Siding materials should not be chronically wet. so it’s okay to keep the siding above the roof surface. Most people settle for a 1-inch clearance. Efflorescence may develop on the brick. This is only practical if the foundation is tall enough. Stucco may soften and crumble.

A raised planter with three sides and the building acting as the fourth .16 Part I Exterior Cladding FIGURE 1.to 2-inch separation of siding and roofing materials.3.7 Watch for Planters or Gardens Against Walls Planter raises soil level next to house Watering and rain Brick veneer Wall framing Rot Floor framing Water infiltration Topsoil Spalling Foundation wall Backfill Basement Cross section STRATEGY Look for a 1.6 Siding Too Close to Roof Siding should have 1" (preferably 2") clearance from roof shingles to prevent water damage Metal step flashings FIGURE 1. 1.4 Planters or Gardens Gardens should not be built against houses such that earth is held against the siding (Figure 1.7). look and probe for deteriorated siding materials. Where there is little or no clearance.

it should be 8 inches above grade. This insulation can include cellulose and controversial materials such as urea formaldehyde foam insulation. soffit. Many people are prepared to live with these disadvantages to enjoy the cosmetic effect. This is not a common detail. Masonry walls are more tolerant of vines than is wood siding.5 Vines Several types of vines and ivies grow on buildings. Vines should be kept away from all wood trim. 1. Some do more damage than others. The implications are damage to the siding and wall structure behind and below. Some vines can even damage masonry. the implications may include insect and pest entry and moisture deterioration to the wall because of slow drying. depending on the type of vines. All provide pest entry opportunities. Vines are generally grown intentionally by the homeowner. particularly at the trim. look for evidence of damage to the siding on the outside and look for evidence of water penetration and damage on the interior.8). or stucco. Vines should be kept off aluminum siding. they often indicate insulation blown into the wall. This approach is usually taken when no interior renovations are planned but insulation improvements are considered a priority. Where you see raised gardens or planters. but you should point out to clients that it may be difficult to remove all traces of the vines. soffits. You may recommend removal of the vines. fascia.Chapter 1 An Overview of Wall Surfaces 17 CAUSE IMPLICATIONS STRATEGY side is a poor arrangement. windows. Adding insulation through building exteriors is a retrofit to reduce energy costs and improve house comfort. All tend to hold moisture against walls and trim. As discussed. including doors. Look for siding to be 6 to 8 inches above exterior grade. Siding materials are not designed to be in contact with earth. A wall covered with vines cannot be fully inspected. This limitation should be noted in the report. and gutters. providing a direct path for water into the building. CAUSE . Evidence of moisture damage to the building skin or mechanical damage caused by the vines themselves should be reported. If these are in a uniform pattern (Figure 1. brick. but it’s a lot easier on the building. The situation is worsened when people water their gardens and the soil is perpetually damp. Most home inspectors evaluate vines on a case-by-case basis and pull them back in several areas to look for damage.3. Raised planters close to buildings should have four sides and should be set out roughly 2 inches from the siding. This includes the trim. and fascia.3. especially from rough-textured stone. Better on Masonry Inspection Limitation CAUSE IMPLICATIONS STRATEGY 1. In severe cases. Planters and gardens against siding are a landscaping problem. If the siding itself is susceptible to water damage. often through trim areas. root systems or attachment nodes can damage siding or enter the building.6 Insulation Problems Sometimes you will see a large number of patched holes on exterior wall surfaces.

you’ll have to check on the inside as well as the outside of the building.g. The insulation makes the wall cavity colder. Watch for areas on the north or west sides of buildings. because they tend to be cool and uncomfortable. especially near the bottoms of wall assemblies.8 Insulation Holes A uniform pattern of patched holes on exterior surfaces usually mean that some kind of insulation (e. This includes second floors overhanging first floors.18 Part I Exterior Cladding FIGURE 1. bay and oriel windows. . or urea formaldehyde) has been added The plugged holes may only be found in some walls or portions of walls IMPLICATIONS Leak Spots Insulation May Cause Damage STRATEGY Adding insulation from the outside creates a number of holes in the exterior siding that may not be well patched. Poor patches may be water entry points. Watch for evidence of water damage. Insulation in old walls can reduce temperatures in wall assemblies and result in condensation problems where none had existed before. In some cases. they are patched so well that they are completely invisible. cellulose. Check that the application holes have been patched and are weather-tight. the patches are very visible. Since insulation is often added without providing an air/vapor barrier. In other cases. It’s often not done to the whole building. there’s a higher risk of the warm. Watch for patched holes that suggest insulation has been blown in.. etc. which are typically colder. Watch also for small areas that project out from the house. moist air that leaks through the walls condensing within the wall system. especially in cold climates. mineral wool. Again. Suspect concealed water damage to the walls caused by condensation. because it’s expensive.

5. Housewrap is used instead of ________. List three functions of building or sheathing paper. and on the exterior cladding. refer back to the chapter to review the relevant material. List ten exterior wall surface materials that you’ll commonly find.7 Summary Water kills houses. 2. What are the implications of a foundation wall that is below the exterior grade level? 8.Chapter 1 An Overview of Wall Surfaces 19 1. at foundations. It’s a problem at roofs.3. List six common components of an exterior wall assembly. What is used to secure brick veneer walls to wood frame houses? 6. 1. 7. then check your results against the answers provided in Appendix E. 3. If you have trouble with a question. What are the implications of burying weep holes on brick veneer walls? KEY TERMS cladding wall assemblies structural members interior finishes insulation air/vapor barriers sheathing building paper housewrap siding spalling weep holes veneer walls planters vines . List six common problems that are found on all wall systems. CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS Instructions: Answer the following questions on a separate sheet of paper. think about water getting into the building. 4. If you think about nothing else as you inspect the outside of homes.

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