CPFAFFD® 90
INSTRUCTIONS
FOREWORD Your dream has come true! You are now the proud owner of a Pfaff 90, the sewing machine which will enable you to master all ordinary sewing, ornamental stitching and darning jobs that may come up in a home. This instruction book will help you understand the machine and give you valuable tips to make sewing more fun for you. Even if you are an experienced seamstress, you will find this book a valuable guide to easy sewing. Follow these simple instructions and familiarize yourse lf with the exclusive features of your machine. You will find sewing exciting on your easy-to-operate Pfaff 90. If you hove any sewing problems, please contac t your Pfaff dealer. He will be glad to help you at any time. G. M. PFAFF AG Karlsruhe-Durloch Branch

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GR 022 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Foce cover Take-up lever Thread retainer Spool pins Stitch width dial Needle position lever Bobbin winder 8 9 10 11 12 13 Balance wheel Stop motion knob Stitch length control Reverse feed control Bed slide PFAFF rotary sewing hook 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Dual-purpose needle plate Sewing foot thumb screw Light switch Needle thread tension Presser bar lifter Needle set screw Sewing toot

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GR 050

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, turn it toward you turn the balance wheel enever you have to • Wh ). shown by black arrow (counter-clockwise as htened balance wheel is tig motion knob on the • Make sure stop ing. before you begin sew ric under the unless you have fab a threaded machine • Never run sewing foat. t before you put under the sewing foo ce both threads back • Pla fabric into the machine. t auto under the sewing foo will feed the material • The machine work. e to do is guide the matically. All you hav before you begin . its highest position bring take-up lever to • Always pleted a seam. and after you have com the thread to slip out of rule may cause the take-up lure to observe this Fai the work with the is easier to remove needle eye. Also, it lever up.

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GRO51

an extension may be attached to the left side of the bedplafe.ratitn t’t Engaging the Sewing Mechanism . The sewing mechanism is then disengaged for bobbin winding.R 8218A Cj. This extension is kept on the left of the carrying case. Disengaging the Sewing Mechanism Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob counter-clockwise (toward you). I I 4 R8287 .4 Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob clockwise. cj’taEe cxtensicn To enlarge the sewing orea of portable machines.

.. Far - Nr. franz. par debajo del volante de maniobro. viene a colocarse el motor en posiciOn de servtcio. itol. En tot formo. ii motore si trovero olloro in postzone di riposo. si riolzo In levo disposto o destra sotto ii volantino. span. 20243 HO Einiegebiort in Fomiho Gebrauchsonleeungen dcuiscfi. Dispositivo per to messa fuori d’azione del motore Nello Vostra macchina ê applicato a destro sotto ii volonte o mono uno levo che. que debe de girarse hacia abojo. si giro ali’ingiü verso ii segno a punto. Frlkpbling af motor Poc Deres moskine er til ha ire under haandhjuiet onbrogt et greb. De begynder at sy. og motoren vii do vre arbejdsstilling. .. Volendo interrompere ii avoro di cucito per molto tempo. sobre to marco de punto. saa det stoar ondret. don. conviene despegar et motor otra vez y ponerto en posiciôn de reposo. En tal posiceón puede coserse a pedal tambien con Jo máquino elêctnca. sn que ci motor tenga que giror unto. a Ia derecha..Mecanismo pam despegue del motor En su mOquina. at De nu kan benytte en med rtiotor udrustet maskine som trdemaskiae. Ved lngere afbrydelse of Deres syarbejde trkker De grebet fremod. En casos de no usor to mâquina por tiempos proiongodos. uden at motoren laber med. drejes dette greb nedad til punktmrket. hvilket bevirker. og motoren vii do vre kobiet fri. se encuentro una palanca. niecierL engi.. ed ovendo uno mocchinc corredato di elettromotore si puô cucire onche con comondo a pedole senza moimento concornitante del motore.. II motore s colloco cosi in posizione di Jovoro. prima di iniziore Ia cucituro.

motor to its operative position. Motor Disengaging Mechanism h serves to swing the underneath the balance wheel whic Your machine features a lever To do this. fri dieser Loge können Sie bei einer mit Elektromotor befindet sich’dann in Ruhestellung antrieb ndhen. n its top position in order to retur mechanism can be agement. . ur Dispositif de dótachement du mote un levier gui est a tourner droite. de yotre machine ii y a Au-dessous du volant de tête. Fuf3 ousgerOsteten Moschine ouch mit Motorvrijstelappaw t met een stelknopje. er on.Moeorabhebevorrkhtung ht. ohne den Motor mitzubewegen. Der Motor Nâharbeit heben Sie den Hebel wied Bei langerer Unterbrechung lhrer . zodat de iarbeid drukt U bet knopje weer Bij langere anderbreking der naa ing kurt U ook door voetaandrijving racier zonder dot stell motor in vrijstellirig is. Le moteur se entrainement a pied sans agiter le moteur. flick the lever to and before you put the machine away After you have completed sewing the motor to the inoperative position. dot U. In deze de motor meeloopt. den Sie vor dem dem Handrod em Heb: angebrac An Hirer Maschine ist rechis unter ke drehen. Par cette mani vers le bas jusquau point de position de travail pulation le moteur se trouve en ure reportez le levier a so longee de votre travail de cout repos et en cette position Lors de l’interruption assez pro position de trouve mointenant en position initiole. flick the lever down to the dot mark. pouvez coudre aussi avec vous . a repêre avant de commencer a coudre. Dodurch befindet sich der Motor in Arbeits Ndhen nach unten zii der Punkimar stellung. olvorens zich rechts onder het handwiel t draaien Uw mochine Aan markeringspunt moe naaien te beginne. in richting der naar boven. the machine with treadle With the motor swung out of eng driven by foot power.

remove the belt from the stand whee L 14? 4 R 7132 Foot Control et within easy reach of your Place the foot control under the cabin rol pedal and press. To switch on Push sewlight plug into wall outlet. push button on face cover.‘cw t’iO? 2 into receptacle 3 on foot Push plug 1 into wall outlet and plug control. you press. pulling it to the right. l. the faster the machine will 5 . Rest the right foot on the cont run. Mou Before you drop the machine sewlight. Foot Drive nt driving belt. The harder foot.

GR 018 set: 4 For straight-stitch sewing 0 Dial A Center Lever B — — For detailed instructions please Control 6 regulates the stitch length. simply depress the refer to page 18. To backtack the end finger-tip control. of a seam. 6 GROO9A .

Thus the stitching can be moved from the center to the left or right of the slot.. The position of lever B (left. Control G lengthens zig zag stitches or packs them more closely together (sa tin stitch). Lever B changes the position of the needle in the needle plate slot.GR 052 9 ip4 $ivinj If you want to switch from straight (A on .O”) to zigzag stitching. VTI 7 . center. as desired. right) indicates the position of the needle in the needle plate slot. 4— ‘I. turn dial A to desired stitch width (indicated by numbers 1 to 4).

GR 014 7?. When you release the latch. Lift latch k with the thumb of your left hand and pull out bobbin case with bobbin. GROI3 8 . the bobbin drops out.euIooinfJ the 73c66iui Ca.ce The needle has to clear the needle-plate. Lift front end of bed slrde and pull.

break off end of thread. Bobbin winder will stop automatically when bobbin is full. from inside. Raise the spool pins to the vertical position. Pass end of thread through slot in bobbin. Press bobbin winder lever toward bobbin and start winding. . Thread retainer with two holes: Pull thread from spool 1 and pass it through the holes in thread retainer 2. Before you drop the machine into the cabinet or place it in the carrying case (portable machines) the spool pins should be swung forward to the horizontal position.— - nil tOmn?tnj th 73c66in Disengage the sewing mechanism (see page 4) and flick presser bar lifter to highest position. clockwise around tension 3 (between the rear and centre tension discs) and clockwise around bobbin 4. - Thread retainer with four holes: Lead thread as shown by design below. Place spool of thread on one of the spooi pins and set bobbin on bobbin winder spindle so that the key at base of spindle enters slot in bobbin. Having wound a few turns.

inic ?t’ in 66 Ca. f 0 R 5867 R 5869 2 8 5870 3 8 5868 4 hi) .a 9uU 73c66í. Leave about three inches of thread hanging from the bobbin case. Pull the thread under the tension spring until it emerges from the opening at the end of the spring. and insert bobbin into bobbin case. hold bobbin in left hand so that the thread end falls from the top down toward you.‘ . Hold the bobbin firmly in the bobbin case and pull the thread into the case slot.c - As shown in illustration 1. Hold the case by its open latch so that the bobbin cannot fall out.

N hold the loose end In replacing the bobbin case. bobbin case on center until slot points up (see arrow).Dns2rtmnf7 he 3c66in Ca52 lift the latch with Raise take-up lever to its highest point and Turn bobbin case the thumb and forefinger of your right hond. GR O5 11 . Place stud s of hook. it is •best to between bobbin case of thread so that it will not get jammed against bobbin case and hook. Release the latch and press irrproperly inserted bob until you hear it snap into place. An bin case will cause needle breakage..

plastics. madras. Determined by weight Determined of fabric 40 to 50 by thread size 60 to 80 12 I — -s . muslin. The same size threads should be used in the needle and an the bdbbin. slipcover fobrics. etc. Some experienced seamstresses prefer a somewhat thinner bobbin thread. sheer woolens. the bobbin thread never should be thicker than the needle thread. thread and fabric. botiste. draperies. brocades. Acetate including nylon. 50 to 70 B&C twist 90 Heavy Fabrics such as cooting. lightweight canvas. bed ti&ings. Rayon. twi St or 70 I 1=. chiffon. Select the proper thread sizes and needles from this chart. gabardine. 50 thrçad should normally be used. corduroy. dacron. 70 to 80 A & 3 tWist 80 The appearance of the finished seam is dependent on the correct relationship between needle. heavy silks and rayon. to 100 to 000 . - Medium Fabrics such as lightweight wooiens. silk. r Lightweight Fabrics such as dress silks arid cottons. 40 to 50 C&D twist 100 Synthetics. lawn. a No. How ever. orion. shirting.— . voile. For embroidery and darning work. denim.Types of Fabrics Mercerized Cotton Silk Needle Size usie Fine Fabrics 80 0 /1 3 an ‘7ha? such as georgette.

flotshank needles are usd for oil ordinary sewing ond embroidery work. ii Chainj tk /t Bring needle bar to its highest point and lower sewing foot. System 130 R. Insert new needle into opening of needle clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Make sure that the flat side of the shank faces toward the back and long groove toward you.t4t /?tc On Pfaff 90 sewing machines. 13 . System 130 R. Tighten needle set screw a. Bent or blunt needles should not be used. loosen needle set screw a half a turn and pull aid needle out of needle clamp. are available from every Pfaff dealer.£Juicttwt 9acLc a6. Genuine Pfaff needles. The last column in the chart on page 12 gives you the needle size required for the material in hand.

Make sure that the presser bar lifter is at its top position II (see page 21). front to back. Then thread needle. Lead thread clockwise around tension and pull it between any two of the tension discs 3. 14 . Bring take-up lever 4 as high as it will go and pass thread from right to left through the hale at its end and into slot at left of thread guide 5. For thread retainer with four holes see page 9.Urni 9 (haIn Place spool of thread on one of the spool pins 1 and lead thread end through both thread retainer openings 2.

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e ‘Zeniu.n 7c u(aacn 9 Balanced tensions ore essential for sewing. Turn balance wheel toward you until the needle moves once down and up again. Sketch II The threads interlock on the surface of the fabric.in U tk 73i’66mn A Hold needle thread lightly in your left hand. you will have perfect seams as sketched below (Ill). Sketch I The threads interlock on the underside of the fabric. Ii III w 16 . 9 Za.Ci. Lightly pull needle thread to draw bobbin thread up through the needle hole. Cause: — Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight. OR 046 I. Place both threads back under the sewing foot. If your tension is correct. — Cause: Upoer tension too tight or lower tnsion too loose.

Choose the lower tension slightly stronger when doing ornamental stitching to be sure you always have o neod satin stitch on the right side of thefobric. Do not turn the knurled screw too far to the left to keep it from falling out. Determine whether the bobbin thread tension is set for 0 medium grade by holding the thread end between thumb and forefinger and letting the bobbin case hang freely. Turn it right for tighter tension. for tighter tension. the tighter the tension. the bobbin case should gradually slide down.irr F’ 79u1atis19 th ‘7ha ‘7nietn The bobbin thread tension has been set for a medium grade and need not be adjusted for all ordinary sewing operations. The tension should be strong enough to keep the bobbin case from being pulled down by its own weight.’ . (The longer the mark. The marks on the tension housing and the dot on the tension knob moke it easy to restore any ten sion setting whenever you hove hod to change the tension for onother sewing job.) The upper tension has a third disc for two-needle work. f [ I 17 1. If a special sewing operation should require a looser or tighter tension. However. as you jerk your hand slightly. as follows: Turn left Turn right V —(C )?*m4 — — for looser tension.s: Turn it left --E for looser tension. turn the small knurled screw on the bobbin case with the tip of your thumb as fol lov. — — GIl 012 A The final stitch appearance can be reguloted by the upper tension knob.

18 .$atch nh 7fp4tatiin The stitch length control sees to regulate the stitch length and to limit it in sewing backwards. turn the control until the desired number is fully visible at the top of the slot (see arrow). the machine ceases feeding. Numbers 0 to 9 on the control indicate the stitch length {the higher the number. This feature is ideal for backtocking the beginning or end of a seam and for darning rips. simply press the fingertip control down. To regulat e the stitch length. the longest stitch is obtained by setting the control on “9” (about 6 stitches to the inch). the longer the stitch). When the control is set on “0”. When the control is released. ‘ L To sew in reverse. the machine resumes forward sewing.

Tilt the foot sidew ays and pull it down — —— Reverse procedure to slip on new foot and tighten screw b sec urely GR 043 19 1 .ChanfJmn7 th Lift both needle and presser bar to their highest positio ns and turn sewing foot thumb screw b to the left.

tl 41ahine 1 A Remove the sewing foot and the bed slide.eraIn. Press down stud and replace bed slide. /tt. Lift front end of needle plate and tilt out. 20 GR007 . Turn needle plate half a turn so that raised portion is at the front (see illustration) and replace. Thread the needle with doming wool and flick presser bar lifter to position I (see page 21).

and tighten screw b. When set at position II. c c WC7CJitiC1 Zes5 a 7 4i( II When the presser bar lifter is flicked to position I. Hold spring cli. 847 610 from the rear.9 anin 7 Remove the sewing foot. CR W6 21 . the presser bar is raised but the needle thread tension is still activated (important for embroidering and darning).p c so that ii is behind the needle set screw. I Some machines have a presser bar lifter with only position II. the presser bar lifter disengages the needle thread tension (which facilitates winding the bobbin and removing the work from the machine). 93-100154-91. If your sewing machine has a presser bar lifter with only position II. Attoch darning foot No. use darning foot No.

Removing. tilt it back.the face cover see page 24. All moving and rotating ports requ ire regular lubrication.Cate 4I1 aintena. loosen the large thum b screw on the underside of the machine base. The principal oiling points are marked by arrows in the illustrations on these pages. I R 8223 22 . and remove the base. Never lubricate machine with anim al or vegetable oils. In replacing the machine base. If you hove a portable machine. Ligh tly tighten thumb screw GR C53. lubricate the needle bar frame bearings in the sewing heod. Use Pfaff sewing machine oil only. make sure that the cable sheath is locoted in the appropriate hole in the base. I A LI 9 L From time to time. Begin unde r the bedplate.ice 4 1 Longevity and smooth machine performance are dependent on regu lar and proper cleaning and oiling.

(rom time to time. one on the left and the other at the back (see arrows). Take out the bobbin case and the bobbin and clean the vicinity of the sewing hook. remove the needle pla te and clean the machi feed with a soft brush. The raceway in the sewing hook is the mo st important oiling poi Put one drop of oil int nt. o the raceway each day you sew (see picture at lop right). : w:. These openings ore the oil holes of the zigzag mechanism. remove the dir t and lint which has accumulated on these parts. Do not lubricate the bob bin winder. Before you begin to oil the mechanism under the bedplate and at the needie-bar end of the machine.There are two openings in the rim of the stitch width dial. 23 . ne Take a toothpick and remove accumulations of packed lint.

V 7iicoIn tk ac Cco To change the light bulb or oil the parts at the needle-bar end. Press bulb in cpd turn right. push the bulb into its socket. remove the face cover. To change the light bulb. be sure to slide bulb pins into socket slots. When inserting sew light bulb. turn left. remove the face cover by pulling it upwards. GR 029 24 . 7et1tacinf1 9r2t? Cco& Slip tip d into slot e and push face 4 cover up until it snaps into place.GR 024 6 3u1 Ckanjij th bifjht 7 The built-in 15-watt sewing light illuminates the area of stitching perfectly. and pull out.

Machine Skips Stitches Cause: Needle incorrectly inserted.) Insert new needle. Hook raceway is jammed with thread or needs Oiling. Choose the correct needle from chart on page 12. Machine threaded improperly. Polish needle plate slot with fine emery cloth. use System 130 R needles. [ 25 L . Needle too fine or too thick for the thread. Wrong needle. Use correct needle and thread (see chart on page 12).1e 6 Y14 7 111 ‘ $h. Check and correct threading as instructed on pages 14 and 15. (For ordinary sewing. above. Clean and oil hook raceway. Adjust tensions as instructed. Remedy: Push needle up as far as it will go and be sure that the long groove faces toward you. Use good quality threads only. Needle Thread Breaks Cause: The above mentioned may cause thread breakage. Needle bent. Burrs or sharp edges on needle plate slot. Poor or knotty thread used. and flat side of shank away from you. Remedy: See remedies listed under 1.ctt 1. Thread tension too tight. 2.

— the correct size for the needle and Dont run thread over finger when winding the bobbin. as desired. but lead it around needle thread tension. Use correct needle and thread sizes. Thread too heavy. Faulty Stitch Formalion Cause: Improper tension. Use only first-rate thread fabric. Pieces of thread between tension discs. Bobbin unevenly wound. Machine Feeds lmpropery Remedy: Replace needle at once to prevent further damage. Guide the material lightly.3. Bobbin case inserted incorrectly. Take off needle plate and remove lint with a stiff brush. 5. Raise presser bar lifter and remove thread. knotty or hard. Push bobbin case until you hear it snap into place. Needle too thin or thread too heavy. Needle Breaks Cause: Bent needle strikes point of sewing hook. Cause: Machine does nat feed because stitch length control set on “0”. 4. Fabric pulls needle so it bends and strikes needle plate. Don’t force the feeding motion. Remedy: Adjust tensions as instructed. Remedy: Regulate stitch length. Accumulations of lint pocked between feed teeth. 26 .

Machine Works Heavily Cause: Hocyk raceway lacks oil or is obstructe d by pieces of thread. Thread jamming can be avoided. Remedy: Clean and oil hook raceway.6. Use only Pfaff sewing machine oil — never salad oil or glycerine. however . If thread should happen to jam in the raceway of the sewing hook. by following the instructions on page 3. jerk the balance wheel back and forth to overcome hard working of the mechanism . even if the machine shou ld be handled improperly. Stop bobbin winder. Bobbin winder working while sewing. Mechanism clogged by inferior oil. Thread Jamming The new PFAFF rotary hook will not normally jam. 27 .

Edge stitcher No. slippers. V Machine Setting: A. Turn fabric to right side. Run a straight seam close to left edge of zipper. GR 032 Quilting Machine Setting: A—0 8—4. 1?11 ta€h$ft?IltS (setting see page 6) Edge Stitching 8476OO Zipper Insertion Machine Setting: A—0 Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong side of fabric. stitch across end and up the other side in one continuous operation. 53077 and the edge stitcher {without quilting gauge). Use right edge of foot as a guide.I’LcinfJ $ewinfy et B—i. turn edge guide half a turn and use low end as a guide.i Sew parallel rows of straight or zigzag stitches at various distan ces from the fabric edge by using adjustable seam guide No. The seam guide is fastened to the machine bed with the long thumb screw. GRCO2 28 GR OCE . For widermarginal stitching.B-. 847 600 used with the quilting gauge sews pa rallel rows of stitching at any distance over the entire surface of the fabric. Always guide the gauge finger along the preceding row of stitches. Position of zipper depends on whether or not you want the edge of the fabric to overlap the zip per.0 to 4. Attractive tea cosies. seat pads and covers can be quilted.

place them under the needle right side up. it. as illustrated. and stitch down to the left. mode in two zigzag stitches are Flat felled seoms usually are straight-stitched. GR 048 Second Seam insert seam Open the two pieces. truding bottom fabric is folded over edge of top piece and stitched down. second seam is placed close to the edge but nat beyond permit zigzag The felling foot has a needle slot. so that inch. Make sure that ridge into felling foot opening.847 56 Flat Felled Seams Machine Setting: A —0 or 2 B — fobric. They ore Flat felled seams ore used to durobly join two pieces of operotions. 29 GR049 . Make sure that protruding seam allowance is not folded twice. used for felling on First Seam the bottom piece pro Lay pieces together with the wrong sides facing and the Feed both pieces into felling foot. rather than a needle hale. Norrow elosticized fobrics only. to felling.

II GR 004 . Clip off the corn er of the fabric to facilitate insertion into the hemmer foot curl. GROO5 30 . If you feed less. press the fabric against the needle plate on the left side of the foot before you come to the end of the hem.847 551 Hemming Machine Setting: A—O or 2 to 3 The hemmer foot is indispensabte if you wont to sew a uniform hem. Feed fabric so that the raw edge is in line with the left edge of the hem mer foot. To do this. the fabric will not be folded twice and the raw edge will show. depending on the type of fabric you are using. You can hem with straight or zigzag stitches.4 Avoid ugly ends by slowing down feeding.

Hem raw edges of sheet. wide zigzag stitches to obtain a neat and flat seam. -— — . Place the selvaged edges of the remai ning pieces of sheet under the sewing foot so that the abutted edges ore centered under the needle. N 31 GR 045 L : . Worn bed sheets may be mended this way. GR 037 838 954 Butt Seaming r Machine Setting: A 3 or 4 B Two similar pieces of fabric which do not ravel easily may be butted to gether and joined with zigzag stitches. You may overcast edges after fabric is cut and before the pieces are joined.838 954 Overcasting Edges Machine Setting: A—2 to 4 B—. 4 Overcasting prevents froyed edqes. Cut out worn center strip. Join them with close. Use a long wide zigzag stitch and sew edge with the needle taking one stitch into the fabric and the other over its edge (normal tension setting).

4 excessive cloth on the wrong side of the material close to the seam. Sew it down with a wide zigzag stitch of medium length. and preferably iron it down. 32 I . For additional strength stitch over corners twice. U FR 838 954 Inserting Patches Machine Setting. following the texture. Place the straight edge of the lace on the fold of the fabric and sew it down with narrow zigzag stitches. Place the patch over the damaged area.GR 055 R 7157 Large holes con be patched quickly. Fold the edge of the fabric about over to the wrong side. Turn over and trim close to seams. Cut patch square or rectangular so that the grain will match the rest of the fabric. taking one stitch into lace and fabric and the other into lace only. “ B— . Cut off . A—4 I I 838 954 Attaching Lace Machine Setting: A—2 u I I GR 044 You can attach lace edging in one simple operation. The follqwing method may par ticularly be used for jersey fabrics.

pinafores. frocks. covers. use buttonhole foot No. wall hangings.GR 033 Applique is easy and modern. If you want to give the design a plastic effect. Outline design on wrong side with a narrow zigzag stitch—and the motive will appear on right side. but essential sections of design with granite stitches. u 838 954 Machine Setting Applique Work A__11J to 2 . R 7167 33 R7220 . Fill out small. V Trim excess material close to the seam and sew over edges of applique with a mediumwide satin stitch. 847 616. bibs. Applique is very effective on busier suits. Trace design on wrong side of fabric and baste a piece of contrasting material to right side. flick lever B to the left ond satinstitch over a filler thread (see also page 36) :1. 8—4. or wherever a gay nate is desired.

The thread size. System 130 Zwi-Ho. threading procedure and thread tension are the same as for cording work (see page 4!). The harder the fabric yarn. Guide fabric in such a way that wing needle penetrates the needl holes it has made and enlarged previously. . are best suited to hemstitching. can be obtained with Pfaff’s System 130 twin needle.838 954 Straight-Stitch Hemstitching Machine Setting: A—C Stitch Length: 2—4 . handkerchiefs. . georgette. Imitation hemstitching thus requires at least two operations. turn fabric half a turn and sew second row. additional straight or curved ornamental seams may be stitched parallel to the first one.4 Insert twin hemstitching needle. while woolly fabrics are not recommended. For this reason. Zigzag Hemstitching . Exciting decorative effects may be obtained by using van-colored embroidery and darning threads. At the end of the seam. the more pronounced the hemstitching will be. as instructed on page 13. organdy. etc. Guide fabric so that wing needle stitches along traced line. Turn out needle set screw a little further than for ordinary needles. batiste. If desired. R 8427 34 . GR 001 Procedure Fold fabric to mark seamline or trace seamline on fabric. except that the wing needle should penetrate the traced line only when it is on the left of its throw.4 Machine Setting: A— Up to 11/s B Procedure Same as above. Sew first row. Beautiful hemstitching effects on blouses. dresses. doilies and so forth.

reposition button and repeat the above process. stitching through the second pair of holes. eyelets and rings on curtain s etc.847 608 GR 036 Button Sewing Don’t be afraid to sew on buttons. eyes or rings with your PFAFF. The raised portion of the needle plate features an elongated needle hole. until needle on the right of its throw is centered over right hole. The needle wont break and the threads will not get loose either. eyes or rings are attached in the same manner. but you will appreciate this feature when sewing lines of buttons on pillow and bed covers . usually to 3. Let needle stitch through hole and make one or two tying stitches. Raise needle. When sewing on four-hole buttons. Attach button sewing foot No. Hooks. It won’t be worthwile to take the machine out for sewing on a single button. The latter may happen only with ready-made clothing sewn with a chain stitch. on shirts or dresses. hooks.847608 and turn the needle plate half a turn so that the raised portion is at the front (see picture at the bottom of page 20). Start machin e and sew as many zigzag stitches as you deem neces sary to fasten button securely. or when fastening hooks. Turn dial A counter-clockwise. 35 . Machine Setting: A—0 B— • Place button under button sewing foot and align so that needle will enter left hole. There your machine will come in very handy. Return dial A to 0 and make two or three tying stitches.

The buttonhole is the right length when beginning of first seam reaches red end of slide indicator (see arrow).GR 034 Attach buttonhole foot No. it is advisable to place a piece of tissue paper under the material. the bartacks at each end of your buttonhole will be twice as wide as a buttorhole seam. 847 616 and set sLide on buttonhole gouge. — If you prefer more prominent buttonholes. pull a filler cord through the hole in left toe of foot. Sewing Buttonholes 11/2 (2) (first notch) Machine Setting: A B Stitch Length (far buttonhole seam): Almost 0 Use only embroidery and darning thread No. When you follow the procedure on the opposite page. to buttonhole length desired. — . 50. To strengthen buttonholes in tricot and knit fabrics. sew on a piece of scrap material. In making buttonholes in soft or loosely woven fabrics. To get the correct stitch length. insert a piece of firmly woven cotton material between the fabric layers. GR035 36 .

Turn dial A to second notch position (or “4”). When beginning of seam reaches red end of slide indicator on buttonhole gauge. pull filler cord taut and lay it parallel to completed line of stitching. Trim filler cord at end of first stitch row. slightly holding the material to reduce length of bar. it is the right length. as instructed above (under 3). Be careful not to injure the bortacks. Make 4 to 6 bartack stitches. Make second tack. 5 6 Turn dial A to “0” and make 3 or 4 fastening stitches. 2 Lift foot. turn fabric around clockwise. Turn dial A until it is caught in second notch (or stops at 4). Sew second row and stop about 4 to 6 stitches (1/ic”) from end of first row. Leave needle in fabric on right side of its throw.InstructionsforButtonholing Sew first side over a filler cord. using needle as a pivot. a) C 5) (/) D 0 pun 0 0 C 0 U 5) 3 D 4 Change dial A to “1 /“ (2). Open the buttonhole with your seam ripper. Lower foot. 7 Trim both the sewing and filler threads. 31 . take one stitch to the left.

Then turn the fabric at right angles and sew back and forth over preceding work with short stitches.V I GR £11 Darning GR 056 GR 057 Machine setting A— 0 B—+ Prepare your machine for darning as instructed on pages 20 and 21. Long rips may be darned with the normal sewing foot and without hoops. Note that far be set at position I. Place fabric into darning hoop. across and lengthwise. Small Holes Darn small and medium-size holes by trimming ragged edges with the fabric grain. the damag ed area being in Thin Spots TriongularTears Remember thot “a stitch in time saves Triangular tears ore best darned by nine” and reinforce spots that have placing the torn section between worn thin with short stitches made hoops and making close stitches lengthwise and across worn section. position and use forwardreverse feed control. Set needle plate in its normal. 38 darning the presser bar lifter should the center of the hoop. Move work If fabric is clamped into darning under the needle with both hands. or sewing. move it under the needle with both hands. Make sure the stitches are taken right into the good mate rial. . hoops. First stitch back and forth across the hole from one side to the other with the machine runfling at high speed.

Be sure stitches ore closely spaced. Let the needle stitch into the fabric at the beginning of your design and draw bobbin thread up through the fabric. making sure that seams do not overlap at joints of letters. Hold both thread ends and sew over outline. To give your monogram dimensional quality. 838 954 and set machine for satin stitch.GR 032 Monogram Embroidery Machine Setting: A —3 to 4 B —. Script letters are best for monogram embroidery without a sewing foot. 954 Sewing Monograms j 838 Machine Setting: A—2 1/2 to 3 3—4 The procedure below is primarily used for block letters. The fabric should be held taut in the hoops and the presser bar lifter lowered to position I. Sew outlines of mono gram. embroider outline twice. Set needle plate so that feed dog feeds the material. 4 Prepare machine as far darning. 39 GR 031 . Attach zigzag sewing foot No. It requires a little practice. moving hoops slowly and evenly. You will soon enjoy creative embroidery once you have learned to move the material at a uniform rate.

Changing the Needle and the Sewing Foot Bring take-up lever to highest point. Make sure that the flat side of the shank faces toward the back. are supplied on special request and at extra cost.6 (1/16”). up as far as it will go. 1.8. Cording feet and twin needles. GR 020 40 .) and a 1. and pull ordinary needle out of needle clamp.6-mm twin needle. loosen needle set screw a. 847675 (5 grooves.0 (5/64”).2-mm twin foot No. For narrow cording use cording twin needle with a needle Wider cording is made with cording foot No. use a cording foot and o twin needle. Tighten needle set screw a securely. as follows: needle.0. 3. 2.5 (332”).0 (5/32”) Twin needles ore available for needle distances of 1. and 4.0 or 2. Pin tucks are made with cording foot No. 3/64” wide each) and a 1. 2. Insert twin needle into opening of needle clamp and push it. 1.5 millimeters. System 130. Cording feet are available in three varieties. 1/16” wide each.2 (3/64”). see ill. millimeters. 5/64” wide each) and a distance of 2. 847 671 (3 grooves.Cording Machine Setting: A—fl B—i - To cord on your Pfaff 90. 847680 (7 grooves.

Lay the end of the filler cord bock under the cording foot (together with the needle and bobbin thread ends under the bed slide and place the ball ). Pfaff recommends y fabrics or render your carding thickness depends on the cording sizethat you insert a filler cord. and thread each need its highest position and pass both threads le from front to back. Slip on cording foot ond tight en screw b It is best to turn out screw I. center and front tension discs of uppe r tension 3. Upper Threading Place a spool of thread on each of as illustrated on page 15. Lead onethe two spool pins. Its you want. Pull a filler cord forward in your lap. Raise take-up lever 4 to tension discs. Remove the bed slide and pass the filler cord from below through hole g located in front of the oval need le hole f (see ill. wider cording with sewing silk in the needle Set the machine for a medium stitc h length (about 4). If the faint zigzag line on the other side. bobbin thread should appear as a Filled Cording If you wont to make cording in film more prominent. the on the type of fabric used. 50 embroidery threa and on the bobbin. The bobbin thread is drawn up as instructed on page 16. 41 GR 019 . an page 40). and increase or decrease tension has been set correctly. hold both needle threads in your left hopd . Pass both thread ends through both thread retainer thread between the rear and center openings 2.Turn sewing foot thumb screw b to the left and take out the sewing securely. Thread Tension Slightly increase the bobbin thread the needle thread tension dependingtension. Thread Size Pin tucks and narrow cording are made with a No. and the other between the through the hole at its end. To do this. Pull threads into slot 5. d. foot. complete ly if you want to slip on a cording foot with the guide attached.

leave needle in fabric (up to needle eye only). vertical and diagonal tucks or stitching curved tucks (see ill. use the adjustable guide (see ill on page 41) which is part of every cording foot. turn fabric all the way. lower foot.Spacing between Tucks To ensure uniform spacing between parallel tucks. GR 058 Various Cording Effects Attractive cording effects may be obtained by combining horizontal. GR 040 GR 041 GR 039 / 42 . turn fabric halfway. below). lift foot. If you want to turn a corner. place the preceding seam into one of the grooves of the foot and use it as a guide. and continue sewing. To stitch an acute angle. and resume stitching. turn fabric. let needle make one stitch. For a larger spacing between tucks.

stitch width or needle position by hand. V Interesting two-needle effects can be obtained by using a 1. This will be easy after you have hod sufficient pratice. 838954.6-mm twin needle (see page 40) and different color thread. For twin-needle Se wing. varying stitch length. the stitch width dial should not be turned beyond “1 ‘. Some of the designs you can make are illustrated below. For ornamental sewing. use zigzag sewing foot No.GR 059 _838 954 Ornamental Sewing You con make exciting fashion stitch designs by alternating straight and zigzag stitching. 43 R 5414 .

9 24 25 Using Sewing Feet and Attachments 10 11 12 13 13 14 16 16 17 18 18 19 20 21 21 . . . Zipper Insertion Edge Stitching Quilting Flat Felled Seams Hemming Overcasting Edges Butt Seaming Inserting Patches Attaching Lace Applique Work Straight-Stitch Hemstitching Zigzag Hemstitching Button Sewing Sewing Buttonholes Darning Monogram Sewing. 4 5 6 7 . Embroidery Sewing Monograms Cording Ornamental Sewing . . 22 24 Bedplate Extension Power and Foot Drive Straight Stitching Zigzag Sewing Removing the Bobbin Case Winding the Bobbin Inserting a Full Bobbin into Bobbin Case Inserting the Bobbin Case Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes Important Facts about Needles Changing the Needle Upper Threading Correct Tension Regulation Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread Regulating the Thread Tension Stitch Length Regulation Reverse Sewing Changing the Sewing Foot Preparing Your Machine for Darning Darning Foot Positions of Presser Bar Lifter .8 . . 36 38 39 39 40 43 . 28 28 28 30 31 31 32 32 33 34 34 35.Contents Page Foreword Essential Parts Fundamentals of Machine Operation Operation of Your Sewing Machine Care and Maintenance 2 3 Page Cleaning and Oiling Removing and Replacing the Face Cover Changing the Light Bulb Trouble Shooting -.

holding your arms in a comfortable position. thanks to their fold-away side flaps. you work while you are seated. And what is more. You may choose between a rigid floor model and a folding roll-away model. take up very little space. With these new mochines Pfaff offers pro gressive women a household appliance which embodies the some high quality standords as are incorporated in the long-valued Pfaff sewing machines. Rigid floor model Yor Plaff dealer will be glad to give you a free demonstration of these new ironers. these machines are ideal for every modern home because they make ironingday drudgery a matter of the past.Here is another interesting Pfaff product for you: Pfciff Ironers Th System Ironrite Incorporating the latest technological ad vances. These efficient machines are easy to move from room to room and. . With the Pfaff Ironers you can iron your household wash three times as fast as before. without any obligation an your part.

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