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Here's my list of art materials as requested. I'll do my best to explain what I use and why as well as where to get them. Lots of Manga specific art materials available HERE.
Work Space: How to set it up
Pencils: What Kinds do you need?
Erasers: They aren't only pink and square
Pens: What kind of inker are you?
Templates: Need a fast circle?
Curves and Edges: How to keep it all clean
Paper: How to choose.
Accesories: Not required..but nice to have
Digital Art: Is your system ready?
What you see: A) A nice, large,clean, flat,sturdy, well lit table. B) A storage system for paper, reference materials, tools and other art related objects. C) A tool rack within easy reach. D) a comfortable chair.
Pencils com in a wide array of options. You can pick up a box of designer pencils like the ones you see to the left. Or you can just individually pick out 2 or 3 that will work for you. I'll try to explain what factors should influence your decision.
The chart to the right shows what the different "Grades" of pencil are. You've seen the infamous yellow #2 or 2B pencil all your life at school. Now looking at this chart you can see what that means. H = Hard lead. Hard lead makes a lighter line and is used mostly for drafting. 9H is as hard as it gets. On the opposite side of the spectrum are the B grade pencils. B has a soft lead so it makes a darker line. 9B is like mascara.
I choose the middle ground. an HB or F pencil has a nice versatile grade.
I use about 5 different pencils over the course of a drawing. I rough in with a photoblue. Clean up line art with a lead-holder pencil and then detail with a . 03 mechanical.
I've used Millions of erasers over the course of my art career but I've finally whittled my choices down to 2 kinds. A) Kneaded Eraser: This eraser usually comes as a plain Grey or Blue square. Once you open it from it's wrapping you start working it like silly putty. Squeezing it into a Ball...pulling it into a ribbon..folding it, squishing it..Kneading it, really. What's the purpose? Well, you can squeeze it down into a fine point and erase lines in hard to reach places without disturbing the pencil lines around it. Another handy feature is that it doesn't completly erase lines...If you just dab the eraser over the lines you can lighten them up for inking. B) White Nylon Eraser: This style is the best eraser I have ever used for
I'm going My personal favorite inking pen. They tend to "bleed" quite a bit on regular paper so leave a space between your blackline and fill area. Debris is that rubb off you get from your eraser. They have all to list the pens I personally choose to get the job done. SO the harder you press the wider your line will be. Otherwise your drawings come out flat like a coloring book. When they are new they have an excellent point and a very uniform Black. a semi-flexible tip. You can fill in the gap between with a . They come in . . I only use these for coloring large areas of black.completly removing pencil lines without destroying your inks or gouging your paper..005 (very fine) to .00 for the whole set at your local art store.08 Sakura micron Sharpies are available almost everywhere...experiment as They may or may not work techpen yet they also have needed. the clean qualities of a for you. Sakura Pigma Micron: Pens are a difficult thing to reccomend since so much of what you chppse is based on how you ink. These pens are great but only useful for a short period of time. It also has a low "debris" factor. The Sanford Sharpie: I use these pens to fill in large black areas..08 (very thick) These pens usually run about $12.never for line work or detailing. Variable line weight is very important for inking.
trees. Gun Muzzles.. It's not very good for inking mechanical things like Robots. Templates come in a variety of shapes and sizes and are save you a great deal of time in precise drawing .just about anything.The Tombo Brush Pen: This pen takes a little getting used too.They are flat so ink can run underneath them and smear your drawing. But it's great for inking Hair. This pens a little harder to find but should be at most your major art stores. Tape pennies under the edges of the template to raise it from the surface and avoid the ink smear.. One problem though.ect. ships or cars. It also saves you from using a traditional compass and punching holes in your paper. fur.. Organic natural objects. . It acts like a brush but without all the hassle of cleaning a brush. Car wheels.
The 45 degee angles com in andy for drawing perspective lines back to the "Vanishing point". some kind of machine. I suck at drawing word balloons and before I purchased Adobe Illustrator this was the only way I could draw them with looking like an amatuer. I'll cover perspective in another tutorial. You can also purchase a see what Curve" for us. You rotate them around on your drawing till you find an Youegde that closelygood job without these tools unless can't really do a matches the curve you're trying to yourink.A little searching can turn up some very useful templates like this one I picked up in Tokyo. Use the T-square to draw Horizontal lines and the Triangle to draw Vertical lines. Triangles: A must have for Comic book paneling and perspective work. French Curves: These tools come in several different sizes and shapes. I use at least 4 on any given drawing. Let's "Flexible they do which looks like a peice of rubber railroad track. It's no good for tight curves but works nice on long curves. The triangle rest on your TSquare. .
Be very carefull when inking not to drag your hand across the page or you'll end up with smudges and smears. Bristol takes ink very well but because of it's smoothness it takes the ink a bit longer to dry. This paper can be expensive so don't use it for sketching. Acid Free board will stay whiter longer.. If that edge was flat on the paper the ink would bleed between the edge on the paper making an ugly mess.( Age can yellow the paper). It's for final peices. It comes in several sizes and surfaces... . The Ruler edge is raised from the drawing surface allowing the ink to apply cleanly. Also give the ink a while to dry before attempting to erase your pencil marks. Notice the diagram on the left depicting the way an inking edge works with a Pen. all your tools should have an inking edge. if you buy it you can do whatever you want with it. Bristol Board Smooth: Bristol board is a heavy.. For comic book art you want a fairly large size (11x14) and a smooth surface.. Vellum coating is ultra smooth and ideal for inking.see if I care.course. bright white paper.Ruler with Inking Edge: Really.
It protects your art and removes a lot more crap than your hand does. The only thing that kinda sucks about the dummy is that he's not really all that poseable. Still. The brush is the elegant answer to debris removal.the Dummy: This can be an excellent tool for helping you keep anatomy proportions correct. Most drafting supply stores carry the brush. . Everyone should have a dummy. I've found that I get more out of Highly detailed action figures (like Todd McFarlanes). the Brush: How many times have you gone to swipe off the eraser debris with you hand an smear the inks on your picture with your big sweaty mits.
Just find what works for you. .As time rolls on the above figures will look very dated.Top 10 System Recommendations: A great system (for PC) consist of 1) Faster the better (600mhz minimum) 2) 256 MB of Ram (more is better) 3) 32mb Video Card 4) 13-25 Gig hard drive 5) A Wacom Tablet (shown at Right) 6) A 5 button Mouse 7) a 19-22 inch monitor 8) Adobe Photoshop 5.6.0 9) A digital Camera 10) A Scanner I'm not going to get into what brands I think are the best because I don't want to start any arguments.5 . Just get as fast and as much of Everything as you can.
Here we are at the beginning. The Ears should be located on horizontal lines drawn out from the eyebrows and the nose. I always liked the presence of lips. If your shooting for a more traditional anime style.All Japanese anime eyes share similar traits across the board. I believe the eyes set the styles apart from each other. Don't go making an arrowhead out of the chin but think more along the lines of the bottom half of a heart. for females.. you can tell who did what just by looking at the construction of the eyes. the width of the mouth would be determined by the center point of the pupils of the eye. The lower lashline is also heavy and defines the curve of the eye. 3. But I will admit . The human head is pretty much an "egg" shape. There's not much to mouths. the set up for this is to draw a circle representing the top of the head and an inverted cone for the chin.I beg to differ. It's like a fingerprint.OK. Lot's of clueless folks say "all that japanese stuff looks alike" . 1. eye. Anime chins are much sharper than standard chins.. . The shape is more "catlike" than just oval. They must be big and have the ability to water up at any moment 2. s The Head itself should be 4 big eyes wide: Half an eye on the left. eye. 4.. Experiment with whatevers best for you. Anime mouths are somewhat smaller so I use the inside corners of the eye as a guide.. s I draw mouths different than most Anime designers.not the biologically correct heart) The placement of the nose should be located on a horzontal line between the eyeline and the chin line On a normal human face. half on the right..the upperlash line is heavy.I'd study some manga. eye.. The upper edge of the cheeks gets dashed with lines to define the edge of the eye socket.. (the cartoon kind of heart. eh? Here's where it starts getting into "Style". Starting to shape up a bit.
erasing and cleaning brings us to stage 3.. Designate a point on the lower center line of the oval.. This is the anchor point we'll use for our fingers. The big deal to this stage is defining the hair and a relevant light source so you know which lines to make heavy and wear to put shadows n' stuff.well. Hair is tricky business.the oval Draw an oval. Anime hair comes in all sorts of colors so go nuts. A little more pushing.Tada!. Do what you want but just make sure you sweep some of it into the eyes. It should have "highlight squiggles" (for lack of an actual term) that makes it look like hair from a pantene pro V commercial. Much like the one you see to the left. almost. shoving. . Hands : Step 1.
The longest line will be the middle finger.Hands : Step 2. The knuckle closest to the tip of the finger is slightly less than 1/3 the way down from the finger tip. . Hands : Knuckle placement The remaining finger lengths fall on an arc from the height of the middle finger. The thumb has 3 knuckles as well but the anchoring is hidden inside the palm.make it just slightly shorter than 2 oval lenghts.radials Draw 5 lines radiating out from the anchor point. The next knuckle splits the difference between the remaining length to the top of the palm oval...
at the knuckles and along the palms. This hand is definately mine. Everybody's hand is slightly different. .Hands : Fleshing in Flesh in the fingers as shown here. The thumbs arc peaks at the middle knuckle of the index finger. The thumb swings inward on its Anchor Knuckle and bends down at its second knuckle to point at the base of the Ring finger. The fingers start narrow at the base... (Notice I am Right handed and that's why my hand model is a Left hand) Hands : The opposable Thumb The thumb kinda has it's own thing going on. It rotates around on its own axis.widen at the first knuckle then taper down again toward the tip. Believability is added by drawing creases in the places the hand bends the most.. Look at your own hand for reference.
Hands : Finger lengths The Index finger and the Ring finger are nearly the same height. Notice how the hand is not Square but Wedge shaped.. The Ring finger is just slightly longer.about the halfway point of the middle finger "tip". The Pinky finger comes up to the last knuckle line of the Ring finger. even when drawi ng the hand .
Notice the foot does not sit FLAT on the ground plane... Here I chose a modified US Army Jungleboot. That will give you a better idea on how to wrap the shoe around the foot form.. A shoe is basically just a wrap for the basic foot shapes. 1) a cylinder for the shin 2) a half a peanut for the front 3) A roundish shape for the heel Side view Here you can kinda see those basic shapes beneath the foot. Make sure you make the Sole of the shoe go below where the bottom of the foot would be.The Foot: Know your basic forms! Like everything else you draw. There's about a 1/4 of an inch to 4" of rubber between the bottom of the foot and the bottom of the sole. I break it down into 3 parts. the foor also consist of basic forms. ..there's an arch between the toe pads and the heel pad. If the shoe fits. Looking at pictures of shoes will give you ideas for styles. Draw the foot first. If your stuck. The shin comes into the ankejoint which then branches back for the heel and forward to the toes..
the Wedge Notice how the foot is shaped like a rounded wedge the bend IN towards the body's center. Take a good look at those basic shapes I drew in step one and see if you can find them in this drawing to the left.. . Everyone's seen foorptints in the sand.. The toes are also arced like the fingers of the hand. This characters har parts down the middle so I add another guidline to represent the partition from front to back.the middle toe is usually the longest. Practice Practice Practice! Step 1: Define the Hairline The hairline is located on a line that extends from ear to ear at a 45 degree angle up from the eyeline.bisects the forehead horizontally between the eyes and the crown of the head. The heel and Ball of the foot are linked by the outside edge of the foot. this foots a bit wide but you see the important structures.. The Instep Okay. The arch of the foot doesn't come into contact with the ground. Mastering forms in perspective Once you understand how a foot is put together you can start getting creative with action poses. Or.
Step 2: Define the strands Hair grows up and out of the head like spikes on a sea-urchin. (uni anyone? hah, sushi joke). Except hair isn't rigid like a spike. It's soft so it falls back downward because of gravity. Draw the hair in smooth sweeps from the hairline and part. Remember..hair is individual strands.. It's not a helmet made of playdoe. Obviously you aren't going to draw a million strands but do draw enough the give body and depth to the hair. Step 2: Define the body After you have your strands figured out. Define the outline of the hair. Trim away stray lines you aren't using and add shading where the hair is farther away from the viewer or deeper toward the scalp. Notice the darker shade of purple I used and how it rounds out the hair? (granted this is a very simplified piece). Step 4: Create the highlites Highlites give hair that healthy Anime Pantene glow. The anime highlite is usually like a halo sitting on the upper 1/3 if the hair. This all depends on the available light you're using and whether or not this person would have Shiny hair. Look in fashion magazines and comics for more style ideas!
Hair in Action: Hair can be a very useful visual cue for describing motion and adding a dynamic element to your art. The trick is to show how the hair follows the direction of the head. If the character is falling..the flow of the hair is the opposite direction. if the character is blown backward, the hair shoots forward...see? (p.s. forgive the high quality cocktail napkin art over here..I just wanted to use this to make a point)
Step 1: Define the Hairline The hairline is located on a line that extends from ear to ear at a 45 degree angle up from the eyeline. Or..bisects the forehead horizontally between the eyes and the crown of the head. This characters hair doesn't really part down the middle but I use the center line to help me keep things even.
Step 2: Define the strands Male hair is typically shorter....at least in MY world. Longer hair would be drawn similar the the female style on the other page. I still make sure the hair strands grow OUT from the scalp and flow along in a natural direction. Here I chose a Ceasar cut style. Magazines are your best reference material. get a collection of style and study the hairgrowth pattern. Step 2: Define the body See how it kinda works like connect the dots? I work the body of the hair into the flow lines I created in the last step. I make hair closer to the viewer lighter to add that sense of depth.
Step 4: Create the highlites Guys hair isn't usually shiny like girls hair. A ceasar cut is a bit rough and spikey so I don't use the halo highlite. I will, instead, add a highlight to the cowlick area to help define space and depth.
Here is the long awaited expression tutorial.This tutorial is very similar to the tutorial available in the "How to draw Manga" book...since it's so hard to find I thought I'd convert the lesson using my own art and post it up here for you. Click on the face to the left to download a blank template you can use to
Really Mad: The eyebrows come down. the pupils shrink and you Kinda mad: Pupils back to normal Miffed: Mouth goes up in an upside get a little x on your forehead. size but the eye brows are still down. down lopsided "u". Eyebrows are Fanged teeth help convey the No popping veins or fanged teeth. still down but not as far. emotion.
Super sad: WaaAAAAAHHH! Upset: Eyebrows up, mouth not as distraught: Eyebrows up...eyes all Eyes squeezed shut. Mouth wide wide open..eyes have more sparkles a-sparkle with tears. Mouth in open..tears of shame and grief in them to convey "wet". Tears still upside down "U" mode. streak the face. Eyebrows up. visible in corners of the eye
Joyous: Eyes shut from smiling. Gleeful: Eyebrows up. A thin line
Content: Same as gleeful but the
.. try drawing your character from the side then use a ruler to draw lines from key parts off the the side like I did below.. sick or disgusted: Features are drawn in a minimalist way to convey humor. The eyes are a bit wider open.. the side. Mouth is an upside down "V". Mouth in a Eye's usually looking up and to lopsided"O". If you're really stuck.eyes wide up. Mouth in sideways "D" mode. goes follows the upper curve of the eye to convey a relaxed state. A tip on Foreshortening: Foreshortening is never really easy and it's something you will have to get comfortable with over time with practice. Eyebrows up. maybe add a sweat drop. Thoughtful: My personal favorite. Mouth is lower eyelid covers the bottom of the a small bow curve. Mouth is a squiggle low on the face. one eyebrow down. Use these lines as a guide to draw your character from the front . eyelids and eyebrows are a flat line. Mouth is a sideways "D" but a bit smaller.Happy (ureshii) Rays of blushy joy on cheek. one Suprised: Eyebrows UP.but here's a tip. but pupils small. pupil to mak it "squinty happy".
sad. happy. Think about your character. Are they graceful? Are they clumsy? Do they laugh. Get your stick figure exactly right before you Here a little personality shows through.Normal Stance Adventurous/ Courageous A big part of developing a character is knowing what kind of body language they use. Completely neutural stance. I often see pics posted by others that have a character standing with a weapon like they are sitting in a Sears studio for family photos.think about what it is your character does.. bad. Figure is "S" shaped. S is for "Sexy". Stance is wide and Posture is open giving the impression of confidence. Check these examples to help you along your way. As you can see.. you can say a lot with just a stick figure.. Hips and shoulders are suggestive of a seductive nature. . play or mope..what effect would that have on the way they carried themselves. Slinky/Sexy Not much to it. you have no idea whether or not this person is good. A big mistake beginners make when drawing pin-ups of their characters is ignoring the personality of the character they are doodling. skip.NO! Try and avoid a using the normal stance.. Picture this in your head before you put the pencil to paper.. drag and cry.
Stance is wide to assert dominance Hands clasped together as whistful and goofy with love.Secretive Combative Lovestruck Stance is closed. Arms are crossed. this wet your appetite and now you have some food for This figure cries "Come and get some!". Hopefully. Back is almost turned from the viewer. Fist are raised in challenge. .
Even though the form is bending at the point of impact. Kinda get the idea? These rules aren't set in stone. Eyes are bigger and rounder. Making the fist a "blur" good on both characters there's something that needs to be done of lines helps give a sense of speed and power to the to show this punch packed a wallop. The force of the punch is shown in the shape of an arrow. Kicking . Eyes are huge.Evil Heroic Innocent Eyes are thin and dark.I just want to give you the idea of what to shoot for when you are Strong jawline. angular features.. it just lacks a certain force. Face has sharp. punch. Face is softer and rounder Fighting: A Show of Force Punching GOOD PUNCH: This is MUCH better. The horizontal line coming BAD PUNCH: from the attacker and the lines of the targets body It's not horrible. the pupil is smaller the more evil the character is till there's no pupil at all. Features are less sharp. Eyebrows hardly ever down.
the bare minimum for translating this throw. his head is knocked back from the point of impact. Fighting: Choosing an Angle It's not that her position isn't dynamic. all the balance is thrown into it giving the impression of a mighty delivery. It just doesn't do justice to the action being shown. with the target being stick as a board it tells us this kick was nothing special.. . I put curved lines on his check to show an indentation where her fist connected.GOOD KICK: BAD KICK: Same deal here. He probably won't be getting up for a while. Adding Details: When you get to the stage of cleaning up your work and adding in details be sure and incorporate lines that translate the action taking place.the horizontal line of force crumples the targets body around the point of impact. His hair and spit show the continuance of the force of the punch. Also the attacker's body is much more a part of this kick. Too flat and lifeless. the attacker appears to be merely raising her foot at the target Now THAT had to hurt! Again. The edges of her fist and arms are quick strokes following the direction her arm is travelling.
. Imagine cutting off the top round parts of a valentine heart shape and attaching the lower part to a sphere.. A basic ovoid shape will do nicely. . To show this move took him out of commision.. sound effects or speech balloons.That's how we got what you see to the left.but still it could be better. The composition is more pleasing and leaves room for backgrounds.This is much better in the sense that you can really tell the target has been thrown. Best Booooom! Choosing an angle that shows Front View : Step 1. are heartshaped..the chin Add the chin. I'd use this angle if the target was going to hit something important or was going to get out of the damage by landing on his feet. It doesn't need to be a perfect circle like this.. Manga faces. Front View : Step 2. we need some closure.the oval Draw a circle. espescially femal ones. The circle is the foundation of the head for any veiwpoint.
Divide the lower portion in half again horizontally. This line is the bottom of the ear and nose line. 1/3 down from the horizontal noseline is the mouthline. Front View : Step 5. The ears should be placed on the same line that the bottom of the nose is on. The inner oval goes from hairline to chin. Ears span from the lower noseline to just above the eyeline. I do more serious stuff so my eyes aren't as large as some other styles of Manga. Front View : Step 4. These axis lines are the Nose line (vertical) and the eyeline (horizontal). . The Mouth should be as wide as the space between the inside corners of the eyes. I draw an additional oval shape inside to help me keep the facial features centered on the front plane of the head.the eyes Eye proportions depend on the "Cute" level of the character you're drawing. I've noticed cute or comical story characters have larger eyes.Front View : Step 3-Facial Divisions Split the face shape in half vertically and horizontally. I place the corners of the eyes on the horizontal eyeline. The eyes should be apporxmately 1 "eye" length apart from each other and half an eye length in from the edge of the face.Feature Placement Divide the lowest portion into 3rds.
You got yer ball for the head.Profiles are a bit easier than frontview and way easier than 3/4 view. Ok.... well. this is for EAR placement.. you got your cone for the chin. The ear is still located on the horizontal axises provided by the eye and the mouth.. This Gasmask shape will get tweaked into the nose and mouth on the next page. You know the eyes get located on the middle horizontal bisecting line. The other thing to note is that the head gets bisected vertically.. Set up still starts with a ball and a cone. I start the slope outward from just below the eyeline and run it back down to the chin.we put on what I call the "gas mask".so what's new? . Once you have this you're ready for some detailing.
Sorry for the mess.. The chin will come down from the center point of the outside edge of the circle to about half that length below the bottom edge of the circle. The nose is slightly upturned. The Jawline should come back towards the center of the bottom edge of the circle as shown here. The eye is located on a gentle upward curve from the edge of the mouth. .In detailing this image.the chin Add the chin..but you still get to see the basic underlying structure used to get here. Profile : Step 1. Profile : Step 2.thing to note are: The upper lip is smaller and darker than the lower lip. Whoa! That's a bad gif.. The forehead is smooth and rounded.. It doesn't need to be a perfect circle like this.the oval Draw a circle. I'll have to rescan it. The circle is the foundation of the head for any veiwpoint. A basic ovoid shape will do nicely.
More Divisions Divide the space between the eyeline and the chin in half. Profile: Step 4. Divide the space below the noseline into 3rds. . Profile: Step 3-Hair Line The Hairline is located by drawing a 45 degree angle from the intersection of the horizontal eye line and the vertical ear line. This is the "Bottom of the Ear and Nose" line. The outside corner of the eye should hit this new division line and the inside corner should be just inside of the outer edge of the mouth.Profile : Step 3-Facial Divisions Split the face shape in half vertically and horizontally. This is where we place the eye on the eyeline. These axis lines are the ear line (vertical) and the eyeline (horizontal). the upper 3rd is the Mouth line. Notice the ear sits in the verticle axis toward the back of the head and rest between the nose line and the brow line.the eye Divide the space between the front of the head and the vertical earline axis. Profile : Step 2.
Female head: 3/4 view Stage1 Okay. As with most other setup's... this one also starts with a egg/sphere set up.here we have the basic set up for the head. The difference is where you bisect it..the opposite is true for "looking down. If I chose to put the eye-line higher than center I could make her "look up". The middle horizontal line for the eyes and the verticle line tell us which ways she's a lookin'. Here I chose a basic 3/4 bisect. .
Drop on some wild Anime hair do!! .Female head: 3/4 view Stage1. I use 1 vertical line to decide the eye/nose mouth plane and 1 to decide the ear plane (not airplane. make a triangle to figure where the other eye should go. Bisect the sphere vertically in half along the directional axis. Normal proportions say that line is for the nose. Keep those speculars even!! She still doesn't quite look like a hotty yet so we need to imbelish on the established lines a bit. I'm trying to be a generic as possible here.closer to the mouth. Here you will have to figure on what is halfway between the ear plane and nose plane to decide eye placement. Make the upper eyelash line thicker.. There's many different styles and variations in Anime.. The "Speculars" or glinty things in the eye should be used to give some sense or direction for wich way the eyes are looking. Ready to move on to stage 2? Female head: 3/4 view Stage2 Startiing to get the idea? All that framework we did before is so this part would be easy. Eyes go on the points of the triangle we established in the detail section. This triangle also serves as a nice guide to keep the features all snug and secure in the head.Detail Start with the blue circle. If you don't get them exactly even (Like what I did here for illustrative purposes) you get the impression that she's cross-eyed.. It's a good idea to decide wich way she'll be looking at this point since you can't put the chin on till ya know. The nose line is a little less than halfway between the mouth and eyeline.EARplane. Add more detail to the eyes and ears. Draw a line from the mouthline to the newly appointed eye placement point on the horizontal eyeline.but this is anime and the face is smaller.wa ha ha) The mouth line is halfway between the chin and eyeline...
3/4 View : Step 1. are heartshaped. To keep her dainty we need to keep the lines of the nose and mouth thinner. A little gues work is involved here as far as were to bow the cheek curve in at the eyeline and how sharp an angle to do the Jawline.the chin Add the chin.Female head: 3/4 view Stage3 Whoa!! What a difference a few lines make. espescially femal ones. A basic ovoid shape will do nicely.the oval Draw a circle. The Eyes and Cheek/chin give the character mass and depth so they should be heavier and detailed. For now just make something like you see here. 3/4 View : Step 2. eh? At this point you kinda know what she's gonna look like but to keep your drawing from looking as flat and unappealing as a pokemon coloring book we need to add "weight" to some lines and fade up on others. Hair is also kinda "whispy" so be careful with the line weight there. Manga faces. lowe lip and under the chin. Shadows go well under the nose. It doesn't need to be a perfect circle like this. The circle is the foundation of the head for any veiwpoint. Little adjustments will have to be made over the course of the drawing. .
3/4 View : Step 3-Facial Divisions Split the face shape in half vertically and horizontally. After lots of practice you won't need to draw as many setup lines. Just a fast loose stick figure that will serve as our foundation piece. Shoulders are a Head and a half from the top. 3/4 View : Step 5. . The top of the ear indicates the "Brow" line. This is to simulate the curvature of the head. These axis lines are the Nose line (vertical) and the eyeline (horizontal). 1/3 down from that is the mouth line. Notice how the jawline meets up with the vertical earline 3/4 View : Step 4. Note that the form is 7 heads high. Notice that the eye father away from the viewer is shorter in length. The Female Body Here we are at stage 1: Nothing fancy. Shoulders and hips are 2 heads wide. Hips are 3 heads down. The top of the ear should extend just above the Eyeline. Keep it loose at this stage but be wary of your proportions. A 45 degree angle between the eyeline and the vertical earline is where we place the hairline. Knees are 5 heads down.Feature Placement Divide the lower portion of the face in half horizontaly to provide the bottom of the nose line. The Noseline should extend in a curved line from the top of the head to the point of the chin.the eyes Eyes are to be placed on the eyeline (imagine that). Follow the curve of the face toward the back to see that the bottom of the ear sits on this same line. I set the corners of the eye on that line. It takes a little bit of practice to make this look right but if you laid out all your proportion lines correctly it will make the task of feature placement much easier.
Body mass is distibuted equally on both sides of this axis for balance.NEXT The Female Body stick figure stage 2: Notice that you can draw a line straight up and down from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet. . ARMS 2 and a half heads down is where we locate the belly button. The arm starts at the shoulder and ends with the hands around mid-thigh. This is also where the elbow goes if the arm is hanging naturally at her sides.
Curvy. The Knees are located halfway between the top of the hip and the bottom of the foot. NEXT The Female Body Sketch figure stage 1: Now we start to flesh her out a bit. You have to be good at drawing cylinders and ovals to do this right. Nothing on a human being is ruler-edge straight but that goes double for a female. Curvy. Study muscle groups to get an idea of how the shoulders. Try to use only curved lines. arms and legs are formed. It has the female form all broken down into it's basic shapes and was a powerful influence for . the legs are slightly longer than the upper half of the body. The Breast are located at the halfway point of the upper torso.LEGS In ANIME. Curvy! A good study model is Shirow's M-66 unit from Black Magic. TORSO The female torso can be defined in casual. sexy stance by slatning the shoulders and hips in different directions.
NEXT The Female Body . Grab a kneaded eraser and start blotting away the fine sketchy lines and keep only the lines you wish to use for your final piece. The cleaner you get at the end of this stage makes the next stage that much easier. Now's where you start tightening up your art.me as far as getting my sketches to this stage.
I go over and start correcting mistakes I made in the building process and get the art really tight for inking. removing my stray lines and getting a nice. usable piece of art. There's nothing worse than inking sloppy pencils so BE CLEAN!! NEXT .Sketch figure stage 2: I gradually start to build her by outlining my fleshed out sketch from the last stage and smoothing over all the "Ball and Cone" joints I used to build her with. clean. The Kneaded eraser is my best friend at this point as I blot over her.
. Not my best ink job but it gets the point across.P) This tutorial is to serve as a reference guide to give you an idea of how to construct a body. As always. Back to Tutorials! . It shouldn't be used as an A to B to C tutorial because that just shows you how to copy stuff...let me know if I can explain anything further to you and I'll do my best to assist. (I just so happen to have a tutorial explaining how to do that .. Try to use the rules here to make different poses and characters. Hope this helps somewhat.and here she is.The Female Body Final Figure: . I will have another tutorial on the female in action and even a "How to draw males" class. All traces of pencil are removed at this point and I take the final inked sketch to the scanner and get her all colored up.
The Lids wrap around the contour of the orb.Step 1: Ball As with most things. This represents the orb of the eye and helps with the general placement of the eye in the skull. The thickness of the lashes will depend on a character. Lush Lashes Up until now the eye was kinda "Blah". Imagine streching a sheet of rubber over a cue ball. Step 3: the Pupil The eye in a relaxed state hides some of the pupil and iris behind the lids.the eye also starts as a circle. Step 2: Lids Here's where most budding artist go wrong. Flesh out the eyelids with some heavy duty. Obviously Male characters won't have this trait and younger females should also have a thinner line. It also draws the viewers attention. This occurs only in Anime/Manga and a few black velvet posters from the 60's. Notice how the iris takes up most of the surface area of the orb. The Eyelid hugs the curvature of the eye.. Step 4: Long. fluttering lashes. This eye is more for the sexy adult female . This adds weight to the eye so it's not ust floating around on the face.
Japanese Kanji is produced by a series of strokes in a specific order and pattern.. Understand the Shape The mouth has a "Bow" shape to it. I find this order also works well for eyes. .the more streched the lip therefore you should draw it thinner if it is WIDE open.. 1) start light and press harder as you move to the outside.but we are going to expand on this.the specular should be on the upper left of the iris.Stroke Order: I didn't really have this part down until I started studying "Kanji". The lower lip is more like a Bow from a bow and arrow set. In this case. I have made a few centerlines here to help me define the correct angle of the lips for the next step.If the light is coming from the upper left.. Here's a low detail anime mouth. Step 2: bow in the top lip a bit Start to work in that Seagull shape to the top lip. Step 1: The setup Now that you now the difference between the top and bottom lip we can begin to apply that to our traditiona anime mouth. Speculars are also used to add emotion to the character.. Step 5: Spectacuar Speculars A "Specular" is the reflection of light on a reflective surface. The wider open the mouth. 2) Start harder and lighten pressure as you move down 3) Start medium and lighten pressure as you move down 4) Start light and increase pressure as you move to the outside. the eye. However. In Manga. The light enters the eye from the upper left and exits through the lower right. If there was an upper row of teeth visible and maybe a small shadow to define the lower lip we would be done. It adds sparkling life to happy eyes and quivering tears to sad eyes. The upper lip is like those seagulls you used to draw when you were a kid. The placement of the specular on the eye should be indicative of the light source. in this case. Open and shut case These shape principles remain the whether the moust is open or shut.. Begin to visualize this as a 3D object..
Add some teeth and darken the interior of the mouth (if visible) to give it some depth. . He tends to draw lips on his characters as well . Mouths are only as wide as the inside corner of the eyes (for women).Detailing Work in the lips as shown here and in the first 2 pics. I intentionally drew this pic in "Ultra-Shirow" mode since Shirow is one of the few manga artist that actually draw lips. Keeping it "Anime" Traditionally.it's best define the lips through color shading. Step1: Two heads are better than 1 Chibi characters are only 2 heads high. BUT. Check out Adam Warren's stuff too. If you are coloring the piece.. Upper lip should be darker than the lower lip. if a person is looking straight ahead you could draw a dotted line from the middle of their eye down their face and find the corners of the mouth. since this is anime.a little too big sometimes but it still looks good. That's how you would normally determine width.. Start your drawing by stacking 2 same sized ovals on top of each other.
DON'T: Make a Disney-esque little Lu Lu foot. . awwwwww.do's and dont's DO: Taper the leg down to a tiny nub. Step 3a: Hands . You don't really need to define the knees. The arms and legs taper to a rounded point. Use similar techniques to construct this body as you do a regular sized body.do's and dont's DO: make a small. Make a small line to separate the foot from the leg. well formed hand like a baby's hand. Don't actually define the typical wedgey foot. Build a mannequin out of basic shapes.Step 2: Big head. The leg should come straight down into the foot. dats so cute. Little body Now that you know how little space you have to make the body sketch in some cute little pose. Chubby forearms tapering into dainty little fingers. Like a tiny balerina foot. DON'T: Make a Mickey Mouse styled cartoon hand Step 3b: Feet ..
From here it's pretty easy.. The nose is not defined as a strong line.ain't she sweet?! Maybe I'll make a keychain out of her. It's best to leave it out all together or define iy with shading if you decide to color it in. Note that the form is 7 heads . A nice little Chibi friend to call your own.Step 4: Define the key features. Voila And there we have it. Slap on some clothes and start adding details. The mouth is like the letter "D" turned on it's side. The Male Body Here we are at stage 1: Nothing fancy. Just a fast loose stick figure that will serve as our foundation piece. Step 5: Cleaning up: Use a kneaded eraser (see Materials) and blot away your lighter support lines while darkening in the lines you wish to keep.
Hips should be narrower than the shoulders. Shoulders are a Head and a half from the top.high.(mouse over the image to see the guides)This is also where the elbow goes if the arm is hanging naturally at his sides. Hips are 3 heads down. (more for heroic types. The Male Body stick figure stage 2: Notice that you can draw a line straight up and down from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet. Body mass is distibuted equally on both sides of this axis for balance.less for dweebies) Hips are about a head and a half wide. The arm starts at the shoulder and ends with the hands around mid-thigh. Keep it loose at this stage but be wary of your proportions. LEGS .. ARMS 2 and a half heads down is where we locate the belly button. Shoulders are 2 or more heads wide. Knees are 5 heads down.
The Male Body Sketch figure stage 1: Study muscle groups to get an idea of how the shoulders. Here's a little help for the chest.In ANIME. arms and legs are formed. . the legs are slightly longer than the upper half of the body. The Knees are located halfway between the top of the hip and the bottom of the foot.
Emphasis is placed on the shoulders rather than the hips. The Male Body Sketch figure stage 2: I gradually start to build him by outlining my fleshed out sketch from the last stage and smoothing over all the "Ball and Cone" joints I used to build him with. The cleaner you get at the end of this stage makes the next stage that much easier. The Kneaded eraser is my best friend at . Grab a kneaded eraser and start blotting away the fine sketchy lines and keep only the lines you wish to use for your final piece.The Male figure carries itself different than the female. Now's where you start tightening up your art.
clean. Try to use the rules here to make different poses and characters. I go over and start correcting mistakes I made in the building process and get the art really tight for inking.. As always. removing my stray lines and getting a nice.this point as I blot over her.. There's nothing worse than inking sloppy pencils so BE CLEAN!! The Male Body Final Figure: This tutorial is to serve as a reference guide to give you an idea of how to construct a body. usable piece of art. It shouldn't be used as an A to B to C tutorial because that just shows you how to copy stuff.let me know if I can explain anything further to you and I'll do my best to assist. .
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It was quic k. eas y and I didn 't spe nd an hou r wor king on the upp er tors o and wai st as sep erat e entit ies. Try this met hod out if you r finis hed art is look ing too bloc ky. . The wor k has a mor e fluid feel to it.yed it in.
Male faces aren't as round and heart-shaped as female faces. I'll stick with a standard type here.the bottom of the chin and the eyeline about halfway between. For now just make something like you see here. It seems there are more variations available for the male face than the female face. Measure out the face by figuring the top of the head.the chin Add the chin and Jawline. It doesn't need to be a perfect circle like this. Make the angles sharper and the chin square. 3/4 View : Step 2... 3/4 View : Step 3-Facial Divisions Here I decide the facial planes.the oval Draw a circle.don't come to a point. It helps me keep the features together and tight.(Do es it look like Ryo Haz uki to any one else ?) 3/4 View : Step 1. A basic ovoid shape will do nicely. Notice how the jawline meets up with the vertical earline . The circle is the foundation of the head for any veiwpoint.
3/4 View : Step 4.Clearing it up Now you can start to erase your support lines and concentrate on detailing the features.3/4 View : Step 4. 3/4 View : Step 4. 3/4 View : Now you got it Here's what I came up with for a final version (granted a messy one).That Male Face The Cheekbones and Jawline is what really helps differentiate your character from other male characters you will create.Rough it in Here I lightly figure where the feeatures go using the same rules you learned in my other head tutorials. They are more rectangular than almond shaped and the lash lines arent as heavy. Make them more "Wedge" shaped. The ear is placed vertically between the browline and the noseline. the bottom of the nose sits on a line halfway between the eyeline and the chin. Male eyes aren't as large and sparkly as female eyes. The mouth about 1/3 the way down from that. Eyes approximately 1 eye-width apart. It also helps define your character as distictly male if your having problems with you males looking to "feminine" (Or maybe you draw bishoujo style. nevermind). I made the halftone in photoshop to give it that "manga" feel . Make the eyebrows strong and dark.in which case.. The nose should not be tipped up like on female faces.
cones and cylinders.ch .Action: ok.. I just posted another tutorial on Foreshortening. so you've Pre-Step: Stick Figure Hero! This is as complicated as Step 3: Fleshing it out In my 2 prior tutorials I show you how to draw body parts using balls.
Voila Step 1: Stick Step 3: Fleshing it out In my 2 prior tutorials I show you how to draw body parts using balls. cones and cylinders..Step 4: Finishing up: Use a kneaded eraser (see Materials) and blot away your lighter support lines while darkening in the lines you wish to keep. I just posted another tutorial on Foreshortening.c .
Voila Step 1: Stick figure set-up Here I got a spy type set-up.. I just posted another tutorial on Foreshortening. The character is sneaking into the headquarters of GloboChem to steal the plans for the experimental biotoxin. I just concentrate on making the Step 2: How do I make it Dynamic? The first thing I draw (and I shoulda shown this first) is the Line of motion. through the Step 3: Fleshing it out In my 2 prior tutorials I show you how to draw body parts using balls. cones and cylinders. This line is a smooth curve that goes from the top of the characters head.Step 4: Finishing up: Use a kneaded eraser (see Materials) and blot away your lighter support lines while darkening in the lines you wish to keep.ch .
eck those out for Step 4: Finishing up: Use a kneaded eraser (see Materials) and blot away your lighter support lines while darkening in the lines you wish to keep. I start with a stick figure. I make sure I leave the shoulders wide and the legs set apart for balance. I'm sticking to the basics here so I'm going to draw a humanoid mech. . Voila Final Note: Nothing helps with Mecha : Step 1-the structure Like everything. You don't even have to make them humanoid. With Mechs you can be more creative with the proportions.
sensor arrays.. Instead I think bulky and powerful. If I do I always end up with a Transformer type mech and those are too blocky and old school.. I try and make sure the joints. I dont really do the Ball & Cone setup. Armored joints.Mecha : Step 2. Large bulges that house machinery. can move freely. This mechs about 9 ft tall and unmanned .. I add seam lines and tiny access panels all over the meI made the chest cavity large cuz because that's where the engine would have to be.roughing in Now here's where I do mechs different than humans.ect. What good is a mech if it can't make it's hands meet in front of it. Think about the function of the mech..is it for urban use? Space? Does it doe heavy lifting? Does it need to be fast? Does it need to withstand harsh environments? Mech : Step 3-detailing After I get to a shape I'm happy with I start erasing unecessary lines and and darkening the ones I want to keep. though armored.
Here Ive included lines to help me place the waistline. Machines look better with a heavy outline and fine lines on interior details.Mech : Step 4. I use a realatively thin line for the details. boots and sleeves but no details yet. Step 1: Draw a basic figure When you first draw your character don't worry about putting clothes on yet.inking I've added a few more details and got the the inking stage. Print this picture out and grab a pencil to follow along . Instead. make sure you have them fleshed out correctly (see the body tutorial if you need help with proportions).
If you raise your arm.). her chest.Step 3: Go with the flow I now start to fill in the clothing based on the lines I discoverd on the last page. Imagine small hoola hoops around your arms. neck and legs. how does the hoola hoop hang? Which part of your arm is touching the hoola hoop? The part that touches would be were the clothing would outline your arm and the folds would radiate out and away from there. Fold lines radiate out and away from the bends. . succumb to gravity and fall in downwards. (cont.. Other areas of clothes in a more relaxed state. her left elbow. Notice the clothing is smooth and taught over areas that are bent or push against the fabric (her left knee. her right thigh). waist.
used for military type characters. A little attention to detail will make your pics looks sharper. You would notice the hoop would touch our waist on the right side and hang towards the area you lept from to the left. Draw the buckle as shown here with the strap overlapping the back end of the buckle and ticking into the loop. They bunch up and hang in the opposite direction of the motion. When you landed the hoop would carry the force back to the right trying to continue in the direction you leapt towards. Here's a Quick Release buckle.Step 4: Clean up If you lept to the right wearing the hoola hoop. It'll take some practice to get it to look right.. Clothes can be drawn in the same manner. . The strap is made of webbing instead of leather. Burne Hogarth has an exceptional book on this subject called "Dynamic Wrinkles and Drapery" Need help with Buckles and laces? You would think the buckle is simple but most people represent it as a square box on a thick line. The buckle is undone by pressing the tabs toward each other and pulling the ends apart.
Show the one docking end smaller and rounded on the lip.hecklerkoch-usa. Laces are often represented as criss cross lines..they interlock as shown here. I like to just get by.sigarms. the Frame and the Grip (handle).I can't find my template.. The major parts of a pistol is the Slide.Zippers are usually represented as a zig-zag if you are distanced from your character. The Basic Pistol The best way to draw a gun is to look at pictures of guns. The tongue of the shoe/boot should push through the criss cross a little bit to give the impression that the laces are cinched down on the shoe. It looks better if you draw the laces as 3D objects rather than a quick line. It takes a little extra time but people notice the effort. but for close ups. Again. The more you know about the mechanics of guns the better if your a detail freak. These aer available on most major gun brand websites: http://www.ruger-firearms. since the laces are pullig toward each other there will be buckling in the material around the stress points. try and make it like you see here. Snaps are pretty straight forward and you don't really get to see the 2 halves together unless the jacket is open.com/ http://www.glock.com/ http://www. Also.com/ http://www. Sorry for the messy ovals. . Show them overlapping each other and passing through the eyelets. Here we have a Glock 26 or "Baby Glock" 9x19 Basic Shapes Break the gun down into basic shapes. good for detail in a close up. Notice how I curved the material around the eyelets to show that.com/ Beats getting the suspicious looks when buying a gun magazine. Each "tooth" is a small square with a circle on top of it.
I've contoured the grip and made the trigger well a bit more comfortable.and smacks the butt of the bullet and sends the lead flying down the barrel.. The force of the bullet leaving slams the slide back and loads the next bullet into the chamber. Pulling back on the trigger also releases the (green) hammer..Make sure the top of the barrel lines up with the top of the cylinder so the bullet can . reference material helps a lot. The Grey area is the basic shape we already had...just look at Shirow's Seburo sidearms! A little Detail Notice I've added a bevel to the slide and put the verticle grips on the rear of the slide. Again.The Guts My father's a gun aficionado so he'll laugh his head off when he sees my lame cross-section and explanation. The esthetics Now that we now the basic shap and what components are needed to make a gun it's time to pretty it up a little with some sleek lines.the red sillouette is more or less the actual shape of a Glock26. depending on single or double action.... When the trigger is squeezed.. Build up a scrapbook of guns to whip out whenever your stuck.but it's more detail than a comic book artist usually needs :) The handle should be wide and long enough to accomodate the clip...the brass casing ejects out the top of the gun. The trigger ratchets the cylinder around to bring the next full chamber up to the barrel.. The most important difference is a Cylinder( shown in red) instead of a clip. Pulling back on the slide pulls the first bullet out of the clip and into the chamber.. Only reference material will help you here. the firing pin (not shown) smacks the back of the bullet and sends the lead part flying down the barrel..don't worry about it.after you get more comfortable with styles of pistols you can start getting creative with the lines. Wanna see more? The Basic Shapes The Revolvers has a few different parts than the Pistol.
like this one. Detailing: Have fun with it. Reloading There's a few styles of revolver. I gave this one a laser sight under the barrel and a nice ergonomic grip so it doesn't look like an old cowboy gun. . Some. Check out the gun manufacturer links on the previous page.. You could take off the whole empty cylinder and slap another loaded one in there. There's some really sweet "New Style" revolvers. pivot foward for quick loading (ala TRIGUN). Some have the cylinder flip out to the side..exit the gun safely.fo you.
PolyKarbon StoryBoards Page1 Storyboards are essential for laying out action and deciding camera angles. . Working from the script I draw each important action in its own square.yadda yadda I lay the new roughs on a light table and repencil them in a SUPER clean fashion....which panels should be big.which panels should be small.make sure my perspective is correct. I start by just having a grid of 6 squares.ect... 1) Character pulls coin from pocket 2) Character examines it (The journey of the coin from the pocket to being in front of the face is not important) So I would have 1 panel being the character rummaging for the coin and the next panel being the coin held up in front of the character. Only 1 action per square! For example: Script says "Character pulls a coin from pocket and examines it" There are 2 important actions there.See? After I'm happy with the roughs I can start concentrating on how they would "panel out" on a page..... .
... Working from the script I draw each important action in its own square.which panels should be small..ect. Only 1 action per square! For example: Script says "Character pulls a coin from pocket and examines it" There are 2 important actions there. I start by just having a grid of 6 squares...which panels should be big...PolyKarbon StoryBoards Page2 Storyboards are essential for laying out action and deciding camera angles.yadda yadda I lay the new roughs on a light table and repencil them in a SUPER clean fashion.See? After I'm happy with the roughs I can start concentrating on how they would "panel out" on a page. 1) Character pulls coin from pocket 2) Character examines it (The journey of the coin from the pocket to being in front of the face is not important) So I would have 1 panel being the character rummaging for the coin and the next panel being the coin held up in front of the character... .make sure my perspective is correct.
I use t to make sure I'm drawing her the same way everytime. This here is a Turnaround or Model Sheet. Back and Side...PolyKarbon Date:07-00 I've had several requests to post some more of my "technical" work stuff. After I draw the initial views. I also use it to help me figure out her proportions to other characters and objects.s .I lay the original on a light table and trace the form out so I can save time when drawing another set to describe another outfit.Front. .
however. A wetware prosthetic compensates for his condition. Hohner sometimes has trouble dealing with the stark contrast in the way he used to view the world versus the way ..PolyKarbon: Hohner Character sheet 10-2000 Hohner was born with Down's Syndrome.
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