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Here's my list of art materials as requested. I'll do my best to explain what I use and why as well as where to get them. Lots of Manga specific art materials available HERE.
Work Space: How to set it up
Pencils: What Kinds do you need?
Erasers: They aren't only pink and square
Pens: What kind of inker are you?
Templates: Need a fast circle?
Curves and Edges: How to keep it all clean
Paper: How to choose.
Accesories: Not required..but nice to have
Digital Art: Is your system ready?
What you see: A) A nice, large,clean, flat,sturdy, well lit table. B) A storage system for paper, reference materials, tools and other art related objects. C) A tool rack within easy reach. D) a comfortable chair.
Pencils com in a wide array of options. You can pick up a box of designer pencils like the ones you see to the left. Or you can just individually pick out 2 or 3 that will work for you. I'll try to explain what factors should influence your decision.
The chart to the right shows what the different "Grades" of pencil are. You've seen the infamous yellow #2 or 2B pencil all your life at school. Now looking at this chart you can see what that means. H = Hard lead. Hard lead makes a lighter line and is used mostly for drafting. 9H is as hard as it gets. On the opposite side of the spectrum are the B grade pencils. B has a soft lead so it makes a darker line. 9B is like mascara.
I choose the middle ground. an HB or F pencil has a nice versatile grade.
I use about 5 different pencils over the course of a drawing. I rough in with a photoblue. Clean up line art with a lead-holder pencil and then detail with a . 03 mechanical.
I've used Millions of erasers over the course of my art career but I've finally whittled my choices down to 2 kinds. A) Kneaded Eraser: This eraser usually comes as a plain Grey or Blue square. Once you open it from it's wrapping you start working it like silly putty. Squeezing it into a Ball...pulling it into a ribbon..folding it, squishing it..Kneading it, really. What's the purpose? Well, you can squeeze it down into a fine point and erase lines in hard to reach places without disturbing the pencil lines around it. Another handy feature is that it doesn't completly erase lines...If you just dab the eraser over the lines you can lighten them up for inking. B) White Nylon Eraser: This style is the best eraser I have ever used for
08 Sakura micron Sharpies are available almost everywhere. They tend to "bleed" quite a bit on regular paper so leave a space between your blackline and fill area.00 for the whole set at your local art store. They have all to list the pens I personally choose to get the job done.. Debris is that rubb off you get from your eraser. I only use these for coloring large areas of black.completly removing pencil lines without destroying your inks or gouging your paper.. It also has a low "debris" factor. They come in . These pens are great but only useful for a short period of time. Sakura Pigma Micron: Pens are a difficult thing to reccomend since so much of what you chppse is based on how you ink. Variable line weight is very important for inking. SO the harder you press the wider your line will be. Otherwise your drawings come out flat like a coloring book.never for line work or detailing.005 (very fine) to . a semi-flexible tip. I'm going My personal favorite inking pen. The Sanford Sharpie: I use these pens to fill in large black areas. You can fill in the gap between with a .. the clean qualities of a for you. . When they are new they have an excellent point and a very uniform Black.experiment as They may or may not work techpen yet they also have needed..08 (very thick) These pens usually run about $12.
just about anything. Organic natural objects.. ships or cars. This pens a little harder to find but should be at most your major art stores. fur. Gun Muzzles.The Tombo Brush Pen: This pen takes a little getting used too. It's not very good for inking mechanical things like Robots.. One problem though. It also saves you from using a traditional compass and punching holes in your paper.. But it's great for inking Hair. Templates come in a variety of shapes and sizes and are save you a great deal of time in precise drawing . Tape pennies under the edges of the template to raise it from the surface and avoid the ink smear.They are flat so ink can run underneath them and smear your drawing.ect. . Car wheels. trees. It acts like a brush but without all the hassle of cleaning a brush.
The triangle rest on your TSquare. French Curves: These tools come in several different sizes and shapes.A little searching can turn up some very useful templates like this one I picked up in Tokyo. I'll cover perspective in another tutorial. It's no good for tight curves but works nice on long curves. Use the T-square to draw Horizontal lines and the Triangle to draw Vertical lines. The 45 degee angles com in andy for drawing perspective lines back to the "Vanishing point". Triangles: A must have for Comic book paneling and perspective work. I use at least 4 on any given drawing. I suck at drawing word balloons and before I purchased Adobe Illustrator this was the only way I could draw them with looking like an amatuer. You can also purchase a see what Curve" for us. some kind of machine. . You rotate them around on your drawing till you find an Youegde that closelygood job without these tools unless can't really do a matches the curve you're trying to yourink. Let's "Flexible they do which looks like a peice of rubber railroad track.
It's for final peices. if you buy it you can do whatever you want with it. Bristol Board Smooth: Bristol board is a heavy. This paper can be expensive so don't use it for sketching. Vellum coating is ultra smooth and ideal for inking.Ruler with Inking Edge: Really.( Age can yellow the paper). Notice the diagram on the left depicting the way an inking edge works with a Pen. If that edge was flat on the paper the ink would bleed between the edge on the paper making an ugly mess. It comes in several sizes and surfaces. Be very carefull when inking not to drag your hand across the page or you'll end up with smudges and smears..see if I care. . For comic book art you want a fairly large size (11x14) and a smooth surface.. Also give the ink a while to dry before attempting to erase your pencil marks. Acid Free board will stay whiter longer.. bright white paper.. The Ruler edge is raised from the drawing surface allowing the ink to apply cleanly. all your tools should have an inking edge..course. Bristol takes ink very well but because of it's smoothness it takes the ink a bit longer to dry.
Most drafting supply stores carry the brush. I've found that I get more out of Highly detailed action figures (like Todd McFarlanes). . The brush is the elegant answer to debris removal. It protects your art and removes a lot more crap than your hand does. Everyone should have a dummy. The only thing that kinda sucks about the dummy is that he's not really all that poseable. the Brush: How many times have you gone to swipe off the eraser debris with you hand an smear the inks on your picture with your big sweaty mits. Still.the Dummy: This can be an excellent tool for helping you keep anatomy proportions correct.
As time rolls on the above figures will look very dated. Just get as fast and as much of Everything as you can.Top 10 System Recommendations: A great system (for PC) consist of 1) Faster the better (600mhz minimum) 2) 256 MB of Ram (more is better) 3) 32mb Video Card 4) 13-25 Gig hard drive 5) A Wacom Tablet (shown at Right) 6) A 5 button Mouse 7) a 19-22 inch monitor 8) Adobe Photoshop 5.0 9) A digital Camera 10) A Scanner I'm not going to get into what brands I think are the best because I don't want to start any arguments.6. .5 . Just find what works for you.
Lot's of clueless folks say "all that japanese stuff looks alike" .I'd study some manga. the width of the mouth would be determined by the center point of the pupils of the eye. 1. It's like a fingerprint.OK. eye. Experiment with whatevers best for you. eye.All Japanese anime eyes share similar traits across the board.. . 4. for females..not the biologically correct heart) The placement of the nose should be located on a horzontal line between the eyeline and the chin line On a normal human face.. There's not much to mouths. Starting to shape up a bit.. The human head is pretty much an "egg" shape. eye. The shape is more "catlike" than just oval.the upperlash line is heavy. s I draw mouths different than most Anime designers. The upper edge of the cheeks gets dashed with lines to define the edge of the eye socket. They must be big and have the ability to water up at any moment 2.Here we are at the beginning. you can tell who did what just by looking at the construction of the eyes. half on the right.. If your shooting for a more traditional anime style.I beg to differ.. Anime mouths are somewhat smaller so I use the inside corners of the eye as a guide. I always liked the presence of lips.. But I will admit . (the cartoon kind of heart. The Ears should be located on horizontal lines drawn out from the eyebrows and the nose. The lower lashline is also heavy and defines the curve of the eye. Anime chins are much sharper than standard chins. I believe the eyes set the styles apart from each other. 3. s The Head itself should be 4 big eyes wide: Half an eye on the left. eh? Here's where it starts getting into "Style". the set up for this is to draw a circle representing the top of the head and an inverted cone for the chin. Don't go making an arrowhead out of the chin but think more along the lines of the bottom half of a heart.
almost.the oval Draw an oval. Much like the one you see to the left.. Designate a point on the lower center line of the oval. The big deal to this stage is defining the hair and a relevant light source so you know which lines to make heavy and wear to put shadows n' stuff. Hands : Step 1. This is the anchor point we'll use for our fingers. erasing and cleaning brings us to stage 3. Hair is tricky business.. Do what you want but just make sure you sweep some of it into the eyes. A little more pushing.Tada!. Anime hair comes in all sorts of colors so go nuts. shoving. It should have "highlight squiggles" (for lack of an actual term) that makes it look like hair from a pantene pro V commercial. .well.
The next knuckle splits the difference between the remaining length to the top of the palm oval.Hands : Step 2. .radials Draw 5 lines radiating out from the anchor point. The longest line will be the middle finger.. The thumb has 3 knuckles as well but the anchoring is hidden inside the palm..make it just slightly shorter than 2 oval lenghts. The knuckle closest to the tip of the finger is slightly less than 1/3 the way down from the finger tip. Hands : Knuckle placement The remaining finger lengths fall on an arc from the height of the middle finger.
at the knuckles and along the palms. The thumbs arc peaks at the middle knuckle of the index finger..widen at the first knuckle then taper down again toward the tip.Hands : Fleshing in Flesh in the fingers as shown here. The thumb swings inward on its Anchor Knuckle and bends down at its second knuckle to point at the base of the Ring finger. The fingers start narrow at the base. Look at your own hand for reference. Believability is added by drawing creases in the places the hand bends the most. Everybody's hand is slightly different. It rotates around on its own axis. This hand is definately mine. ... (Notice I am Right handed and that's why my hand model is a Left hand) Hands : The opposable Thumb The thumb kinda has it's own thing going on.
about the halfway point of the middle finger "tip".Hands : Finger lengths The Index finger and the Ring finger are nearly the same height. Notice how the hand is not Square but Wedge shaped. The Ring finger is just slightly longer. even when drawi ng the hand . The Pinky finger comes up to the last knuckle line of the Ring finger..
The shin comes into the ankejoint which then branches back for the heel and forward to the toes. A shoe is basically just a wrap for the basic foot shapes. Here I chose a modified US Army Jungleboot.there's an arch between the toe pads and the heel pad. the foor also consist of basic forms. Notice the foot does not sit FLAT on the ground plane. If the shoe fits... Make sure you make the Sole of the shoe go below where the bottom of the foot would be. 1) a cylinder for the shin 2) a half a peanut for the front 3) A roundish shape for the heel Side view Here you can kinda see those basic shapes beneath the foot. . There's about a 1/4 of an inch to 4" of rubber between the bottom of the foot and the bottom of the sole.. Looking at pictures of shoes will give you ideas for styles. Draw the foot first. If your stuck.The Foot: Know your basic forms! Like everything else you draw. I break it down into 3 parts... That will give you a better idea on how to wrap the shoe around the foot form.
The Instep Okay.bisects the forehead horizontally between the eyes and the crown of the head. The arch of the foot doesn't come into contact with the ground.. Practice Practice Practice! Step 1: Define the Hairline The hairline is located on a line that extends from ear to ear at a 45 degree angle up from the eyeline. This characters har parts down the middle so I add another guidline to represent the partition from front to back. . Or. The heel and Ball of the foot are linked by the outside edge of the foot. Everyone's seen foorptints in the sand. The toes are also arced like the fingers of the hand.. Mastering forms in perspective Once you understand how a foot is put together you can start getting creative with action poses. this foots a bit wide but you see the important structures..the Wedge Notice how the foot is shaped like a rounded wedge the bend IN towards the body's center. Take a good look at those basic shapes I drew in step one and see if you can find them in this drawing to the left.the middle toe is usually the longest.
Step 2: Define the strands Hair grows up and out of the head like spikes on a sea-urchin. (uni anyone? hah, sushi joke). Except hair isn't rigid like a spike. It's soft so it falls back downward because of gravity. Draw the hair in smooth sweeps from the hairline and part. Remember..hair is individual strands.. It's not a helmet made of playdoe. Obviously you aren't going to draw a million strands but do draw enough the give body and depth to the hair. Step 2: Define the body After you have your strands figured out. Define the outline of the hair. Trim away stray lines you aren't using and add shading where the hair is farther away from the viewer or deeper toward the scalp. Notice the darker shade of purple I used and how it rounds out the hair? (granted this is a very simplified piece). Step 4: Create the highlites Highlites give hair that healthy Anime Pantene glow. The anime highlite is usually like a halo sitting on the upper 1/3 if the hair. This all depends on the available light you're using and whether or not this person would have Shiny hair. Look in fashion magazines and comics for more style ideas!
Hair in Action: Hair can be a very useful visual cue for describing motion and adding a dynamic element to your art. The trick is to show how the hair follows the direction of the head. If the character is falling..the flow of the hair is the opposite direction. if the character is blown backward, the hair shoots forward...see? (p.s. forgive the high quality cocktail napkin art over here..I just wanted to use this to make a point)
Step 1: Define the Hairline The hairline is located on a line that extends from ear to ear at a 45 degree angle up from the eyeline. Or..bisects the forehead horizontally between the eyes and the crown of the head. This characters hair doesn't really part down the middle but I use the center line to help me keep things even.
Step 2: Define the strands Male hair is typically shorter....at least in MY world. Longer hair would be drawn similar the the female style on the other page. I still make sure the hair strands grow OUT from the scalp and flow along in a natural direction. Here I chose a Ceasar cut style. Magazines are your best reference material. get a collection of style and study the hairgrowth pattern. Step 2: Define the body See how it kinda works like connect the dots? I work the body of the hair into the flow lines I created in the last step. I make hair closer to the viewer lighter to add that sense of depth.
Step 4: Create the highlites Guys hair isn't usually shiny like girls hair. A ceasar cut is a bit rough and spikey so I don't use the halo highlite. I will, instead, add a highlight to the cowlick area to help define space and depth.
Here is the long awaited expression tutorial.This tutorial is very similar to the tutorial available in the "How to draw Manga" book...since it's so hard to find I thought I'd convert the lesson using my own art and post it up here for you. Click on the face to the left to download a blank template you can use to
Really Mad: The eyebrows come down. the pupils shrink and you Kinda mad: Pupils back to normal Miffed: Mouth goes up in an upside get a little x on your forehead. size but the eye brows are still down. down lopsided "u". Eyebrows are Fanged teeth help convey the No popping veins or fanged teeth. still down but not as far. emotion.
Super sad: WaaAAAAAHHH! Upset: Eyebrows up, mouth not as distraught: Eyebrows up...eyes all Eyes squeezed shut. Mouth wide wide open..eyes have more sparkles a-sparkle with tears. Mouth in open..tears of shame and grief in them to convey "wet". Tears still upside down "U" mode. streak the face. Eyebrows up. visible in corners of the eye
Joyous: Eyes shut from smiling. Gleeful: Eyebrows up. A thin line
Content: Same as gleeful but the
A tip on Foreshortening: Foreshortening is never really easy and it's something you will have to get comfortable with over time with practice. one eyebrow down. Mouth is a squiggle low on the face. but pupils small.. Thoughtful: My personal favorite. The eyes are a bit wider open.. Mouth is a sideways "D" but a bit smaller. Mouth is lower eyelid covers the bottom of the a small bow curve. maybe add a sweat drop. pupil to mak it "squinty happy". Mouth in sideways "D" mode. Mouth in a Eye's usually looking up and to lopsided"O". eyelids and eyebrows are a flat line. goes follows the upper curve of the eye to convey a relaxed state. Use these lines as a guide to draw your character from the front .but here's a tip. Eyebrows up. Mouth is an upside down "V". If you're really stuck... the side. try drawing your character from the side then use a ruler to draw lines from key parts off the the side like I did below.eyes wide up. one Suprised: Eyebrows UP. sick or disgusted: Features are drawn in a minimalist way to convey humor.Happy (ureshii) Rays of blushy joy on cheek.
Normal Stance Adventurous/ Courageous A big part of developing a character is knowing what kind of body language they use.. Figure is "S" shaped. Get your stick figure exactly right before you Here a little personality shows through. Completely neutural stance. drag and cry. Check these examples to help you along your way. play or mope. happy. you have no idea whether or not this person is good.. Are they graceful? Are they clumsy? Do they laugh.. skip. As you can see. Think about your character. bad.. .what effect would that have on the way they carried themselves. Hips and shoulders are suggestive of a seductive nature. Picture this in your head before you put the pencil to paper. A big mistake beginners make when drawing pin-ups of their characters is ignoring the personality of the character they are doodling. Slinky/Sexy Not much to it. you can say a lot with just a stick figure. Stance is wide and Posture is open giving the impression of confidence. S is for "Sexy".. sad. I often see pics posted by others that have a character standing with a weapon like they are sitting in a Sears studio for family photos.think about what it is your character does.NO! Try and avoid a using the normal stance..
this wet your appetite and now you have some food for This figure cries "Come and get some!".Secretive Combative Lovestruck Stance is closed. Fist are raised in challenge. Back is almost turned from the viewer. Arms are crossed. . Stance is wide to assert dominance Hands clasped together as whistful and goofy with love. Hopefully.
Face is softer and rounder Fighting: A Show of Force Punching GOOD PUNCH: This is MUCH better. Kicking .I just want to give you the idea of what to shoot for when you are Strong jawline.Evil Heroic Innocent Eyes are thin and dark. punch. Making the fist a "blur" good on both characters there's something that needs to be done of lines helps give a sense of speed and power to the to show this punch packed a wallop. Eyes are bigger and rounder. it just lacks a certain force. The horizontal line coming BAD PUNCH: from the attacker and the lines of the targets body It's not horrible. angular features. the pupil is smaller the more evil the character is till there's no pupil at all. Even though the form is bending at the point of impact. The force of the punch is shown in the shape of an arrow.. Eyes are huge. Features are less sharp. Eyebrows hardly ever down. Kinda get the idea? These rules aren't set in stone. Face has sharp.
all the balance is thrown into it giving the impression of a mighty delivery. It just doesn't do justice to the action being shown. Too flat and lifeless.GOOD KICK: BAD KICK: Same deal here.. Adding Details: When you get to the stage of cleaning up your work and adding in details be sure and incorporate lines that translate the action taking place. his head is knocked back from the point of impact. He probably won't be getting up for a while. I put curved lines on his check to show an indentation where her fist connected.the horizontal line of force crumples the targets body around the point of impact. the attacker appears to be merely raising her foot at the target Now THAT had to hurt! Again. Fighting: Choosing an Angle It's not that her position isn't dynamic. the bare minimum for translating this throw. His hair and spit show the continuance of the force of the punch. The edges of her fist and arms are quick strokes following the direction her arm is travelling. with the target being stick as a board it tells us this kick was nothing special. . Also the attacker's body is much more a part of this kick.
Best Booooom! Choosing an angle that shows Front View : Step 1. Front View : Step 2. I'd use this angle if the target was going to hit something important or was going to get out of the damage by landing on his feet.. The circle is the foundation of the head for any veiwpoint.. The composition is more pleasing and leaves room for backgrounds.That's how we got what you see to the left.but still it could be better. espescially femal ones. .This is much better in the sense that you can really tell the target has been thrown.the oval Draw a circle.. Manga faces.. we need some closure. To show this move took him out of commision. Imagine cutting off the top round parts of a valentine heart shape and attaching the lower part to a sphere. A basic ovoid shape will do nicely. are heartshaped. sound effects or speech balloons. It doesn't need to be a perfect circle like this..the chin Add the chin.
Ears span from the lower noseline to just above the eyeline. These axis lines are the Nose line (vertical) and the eyeline (horizontal). I place the corners of the eyes on the horizontal eyeline. The eyes should be apporxmately 1 "eye" length apart from each other and half an eye length in from the edge of the face. 1/3 down from the horizontal noseline is the mouthline.Front View : Step 3-Facial Divisions Split the face shape in half vertically and horizontally. The inner oval goes from hairline to chin. Front View : Step 4. . The ears should be placed on the same line that the bottom of the nose is on. Divide the lower portion in half again horizontally. The Mouth should be as wide as the space between the inside corners of the eyes. I've noticed cute or comical story characters have larger eyes. I do more serious stuff so my eyes aren't as large as some other styles of Manga. This line is the bottom of the ear and nose line.the eyes Eye proportions depend on the "Cute" level of the character you're drawing.Feature Placement Divide the lowest portion into 3rds. Front View : Step 5. I draw an additional oval shape inside to help me keep the facial features centered on the front plane of the head.
..so what's new? . Ok. I start the slope outward from just below the eyeline and run it back down to the chin.. This Gasmask shape will get tweaked into the nose and mouth on the next page. Set up still starts with a ball and a cone..You got yer ball for the head. You know the eyes get located on the middle horizontal bisecting line. The ear is still located on the horizontal axises provided by the eye and the mouth. well. this is for EAR placement...Profiles are a bit easier than frontview and way easier than 3/4 view.we put on what I call the "gas mask". Once you have this you're ready for some detailing. The other thing to note is that the head gets bisected vertically. you got your cone for the chin.
. The circle is the foundation of the head for any veiwpoint. The chin will come down from the center point of the outside edge of the circle to about half that length below the bottom edge of the circle. The forehead is smooth and rounded.thing to note are: The upper lip is smaller and darker than the lower lip. Whoa! That's a bad gif. It doesn't need to be a perfect circle like this. The eye is located on a gentle upward curve from the edge of the mouth. ..In detailing this image. Profile : Step 1. Sorry for the mess.but you still get to see the basic underlying structure used to get here. The Jawline should come back towards the center of the bottom edge of the circle as shown here.. I'll have to rescan it. A basic ovoid shape will do nicely. Profile : Step 2.the chin Add the chin..the oval Draw a circle. The nose is slightly upturned.
This is the "Bottom of the Ear and Nose" line. Profile : Step 2.the eye Divide the space between the front of the head and the vertical earline axis. The outside corner of the eye should hit this new division line and the inside corner should be just inside of the outer edge of the mouth. the upper 3rd is the Mouth line. Divide the space below the noseline into 3rds. Profile: Step 3-Hair Line The Hairline is located by drawing a 45 degree angle from the intersection of the horizontal eye line and the vertical ear line. These axis lines are the ear line (vertical) and the eyeline (horizontal). Notice the ear sits in the verticle axis toward the back of the head and rest between the nose line and the brow line.More Divisions Divide the space between the eyeline and the chin in half. . This is where we place the eye on the eyeline. Profile: Step 4.Profile : Step 3-Facial Divisions Split the face shape in half vertically and horizontally.
If I chose to put the eye-line higher than center I could make her "look up".here we have the basic set up for the head. The middle horizontal line for the eyes and the verticle line tell us which ways she's a lookin'.. As with most other setup's. this one also starts with a egg/sphere set up. The difference is where you bisect it.. . Here I chose a basic 3/4 bisect.the opposite is true for "looking down..Female head: 3/4 view Stage1 Okay.
closer to the mouth.. There's many different styles and variations in Anime.but this is anime and the face is smaller. Ready to move on to stage 2? Female head: 3/4 view Stage2 Startiing to get the idea? All that framework we did before is so this part would be easy. It's a good idea to decide wich way she'll be looking at this point since you can't put the chin on till ya know. Here you will have to figure on what is halfway between the ear plane and nose plane to decide eye placement. Normal proportions say that line is for the nose.Detail Start with the blue circle.wa ha ha) The mouth line is halfway between the chin and eyeline. make a triangle to figure where the other eye should go. If you don't get them exactly even (Like what I did here for illustrative purposes) you get the impression that she's cross-eyed. The nose line is a little less than halfway between the mouth and eyeline.EARplane. I use 1 vertical line to decide the eye/nose mouth plane and 1 to decide the ear plane (not airplane. The "Speculars" or glinty things in the eye should be used to give some sense or direction for wich way the eyes are looking. Keep those speculars even!! She still doesn't quite look like a hotty yet so we need to imbelish on the established lines a bit.. Bisect the sphere vertically in half along the directional axis.Female head: 3/4 view Stage1. Drop on some wild Anime hair do!! .. Add more detail to the eyes and ears.. Draw a line from the mouthline to the newly appointed eye placement point on the horizontal eyeline. I'm trying to be a generic as possible here. Make the upper eyelash line thicker. This triangle also serves as a nice guide to keep the features all snug and secure in the head. Eyes go on the points of the triangle we established in the detail section..
Manga faces. For now just make something like you see here. . Hair is also kinda "whispy" so be careful with the line weight there. To keep her dainty we need to keep the lines of the nose and mouth thinner. Shadows go well under the nose. The circle is the foundation of the head for any veiwpoint. espescially femal ones. 3/4 View : Step 1.the oval Draw a circle. A basic ovoid shape will do nicely. are heartshaped. Little adjustments will have to be made over the course of the drawing.the chin Add the chin. 3/4 View : Step 2. It doesn't need to be a perfect circle like this. A little gues work is involved here as far as were to bow the cheek curve in at the eyeline and how sharp an angle to do the Jawline. The Eyes and Cheek/chin give the character mass and depth so they should be heavier and detailed. eh? At this point you kinda know what she's gonna look like but to keep your drawing from looking as flat and unappealing as a pokemon coloring book we need to add "weight" to some lines and fade up on others.Female head: 3/4 view Stage3 Whoa!! What a difference a few lines make. lowe lip and under the chin.
Shoulders and hips are 2 heads wide. The top of the ear should extend just above the Eyeline. These axis lines are the Nose line (vertical) and the eyeline (horizontal).3/4 View : Step 3-Facial Divisions Split the face shape in half vertically and horizontally. 1/3 down from that is the mouth line. 3/4 View : Step 5. After lots of practice you won't need to draw as many setup lines. It takes a little bit of practice to make this look right but if you laid out all your proportion lines correctly it will make the task of feature placement much easier. Shoulders are a Head and a half from the top.the eyes Eyes are to be placed on the eyeline (imagine that). I set the corners of the eye on that line. The top of the ear indicates the "Brow" line. This is to simulate the curvature of the head. Notice how the jawline meets up with the vertical earline 3/4 View : Step 4. Keep it loose at this stage but be wary of your proportions. A 45 degree angle between the eyeline and the vertical earline is where we place the hairline. . Notice that the eye father away from the viewer is shorter in length. Follow the curve of the face toward the back to see that the bottom of the ear sits on this same line. Hips are 3 heads down. Knees are 5 heads down.Feature Placement Divide the lower portion of the face in half horizontaly to provide the bottom of the nose line. Just a fast loose stick figure that will serve as our foundation piece. Note that the form is 7 heads high. The Noseline should extend in a curved line from the top of the head to the point of the chin. The Female Body Here we are at stage 1: Nothing fancy.
This is also where the elbow goes if the arm is hanging naturally at her sides. Body mass is distibuted equally on both sides of this axis for balance. The arm starts at the shoulder and ends with the hands around mid-thigh. . ARMS 2 and a half heads down is where we locate the belly button.NEXT The Female Body stick figure stage 2: Notice that you can draw a line straight up and down from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet.
Study muscle groups to get an idea of how the shoulders. TORSO The female torso can be defined in casual.LEGS In ANIME. The Breast are located at the halfway point of the upper torso. Curvy! A good study model is Shirow's M-66 unit from Black Magic. Curvy. Nothing on a human being is ruler-edge straight but that goes double for a female. arms and legs are formed. NEXT The Female Body Sketch figure stage 1: Now we start to flesh her out a bit. Curvy. It has the female form all broken down into it's basic shapes and was a powerful influence for . sexy stance by slatning the shoulders and hips in different directions. The Knees are located halfway between the top of the hip and the bottom of the foot. You have to be good at drawing cylinders and ovals to do this right. Try to use only curved lines. the legs are slightly longer than the upper half of the body.
Grab a kneaded eraser and start blotting away the fine sketchy lines and keep only the lines you wish to use for your final piece. The cleaner you get at the end of this stage makes the next stage that much easier. NEXT The Female Body .me as far as getting my sketches to this stage. Now's where you start tightening up your art.
The Kneaded eraser is my best friend at this point as I blot over her. removing my stray lines and getting a nice. usable piece of art. clean. I go over and start correcting mistakes I made in the building process and get the art really tight for inking.Sketch figure stage 2: I gradually start to build her by outlining my fleshed out sketch from the last stage and smoothing over all the "Ball and Cone" joints I used to build her with. There's nothing worse than inking sloppy pencils so BE CLEAN!! NEXT .
P) This tutorial is to serve as a reference guide to give you an idea of how to construct a body.The Female Body Final Figure: .and here she is.let me know if I can explain anything further to you and I'll do my best to assist. Hope this helps somewhat. As always.. I will have another tutorial on the female in action and even a "How to draw males" class. Back to Tutorials! .. It shouldn't be used as an A to B to C tutorial because that just shows you how to copy stuff.. Try to use the rules here to make different poses and characters.. (I just so happen to have a tutorial explaining how to do that . Not my best ink job but it gets the point across. All traces of pencil are removed at this point and I take the final inked sketch to the scanner and get her all colored up.
The Eyelid hugs the curvature of the eye. This occurs only in Anime/Manga and a few black velvet posters from the 60's. It also draws the viewers attention. The Lids wrap around the contour of the orb. fluttering lashes.. Step 4: Long. Obviously Male characters won't have this trait and younger females should also have a thinner line. The thickness of the lashes will depend on a character. Notice how the iris takes up most of the surface area of the orb. Lush Lashes Up until now the eye was kinda "Blah". Step 2: Lids Here's where most budding artist go wrong. This represents the orb of the eye and helps with the general placement of the eye in the skull. This adds weight to the eye so it's not ust floating around on the face. Step 3: the Pupil The eye in a relaxed state hides some of the pupil and iris behind the lids. Imagine streching a sheet of rubber over a cue ball.the eye also starts as a circle. Flesh out the eyelids with some heavy duty.Step 1: Ball As with most things. This eye is more for the sexy adult female .
. Understand the Shape The mouth has a "Bow" shape to it.. Here's a low detail anime mouth. In this case. 2) Start harder and lighten pressure as you move down 3) Start medium and lighten pressure as you move down 4) Start light and increase pressure as you move to the outside. Step 2: bow in the top lip a bit Start to work in that Seagull shape to the top lip.Stroke Order: I didn't really have this part down until I started studying "Kanji". I have made a few centerlines here to help me define the correct angle of the lips for the next step.. The upper lip is like those seagulls you used to draw when you were a kid. 1) start light and press harder as you move to the outside.. However. in this case. Step 1: The setup Now that you now the difference between the top and bottom lip we can begin to apply that to our traditiona anime mouth.but we are going to expand on this.. the eye. The light enters the eye from the upper left and exits through the lower right. Begin to visualize this as a 3D object. . Open and shut case These shape principles remain the whether the moust is open or shut..If the light is coming from the upper left.the specular should be on the upper left of the iris. In Manga. Step 5: Spectacuar Speculars A "Specular" is the reflection of light on a reflective surface.the more streched the lip therefore you should draw it thinner if it is WIDE open. The wider open the mouth. The lower lip is more like a Bow from a bow and arrow set. Japanese Kanji is produced by a series of strokes in a specific order and pattern. The placement of the specular on the eye should be indicative of the light source. Speculars are also used to add emotion to the character. It adds sparkling life to happy eyes and quivering tears to sad eyes. I find this order also works well for eyes. If there was an upper row of teeth visible and maybe a small shadow to define the lower lip we would be done.
it's best define the lips through color shading. Add some teeth and darken the interior of the mouth (if visible) to give it some depth. Mouths are only as wide as the inside corner of the eyes (for women). Start your drawing by stacking 2 same sized ovals on top of each other.a little too big sometimes but it still looks good. since this is anime. . Keeping it "Anime" Traditionally. Upper lip should be darker than the lower lip. I intentionally drew this pic in "Ultra-Shirow" mode since Shirow is one of the few manga artist that actually draw lips. That's how you would normally determine width. If you are coloring the piece..Detailing Work in the lips as shown here and in the first 2 pics. BUT. Check out Adam Warren's stuff too.. if a person is looking straight ahead you could draw a dotted line from the middle of their eye down their face and find the corners of the mouth. Step1: Two heads are better than 1 Chibi characters are only 2 heads high. He tends to draw lips on his characters as well .
Like a tiny balerina foot. well formed hand like a baby's hand. You don't really need to define the knees. Don't actually define the typical wedgey foot. Chubby forearms tapering into dainty little fingers. The leg should come straight down into the foot. Little body Now that you know how little space you have to make the body sketch in some cute little pose. dats so cute. Use similar techniques to construct this body as you do a regular sized body. Make a small line to separate the foot from the leg. DON'T: Make a Mickey Mouse styled cartoon hand Step 3b: Feet .Step 2: Big head.do's and dont's DO: Taper the leg down to a tiny nub. Build a mannequin out of basic shapes. .do's and dont's DO: make a small. DON'T: Make a Disney-esque little Lu Lu foot. The arms and legs taper to a rounded point. Step 3a: Hands . awwwwww..
The Male Body Here we are at stage 1: Nothing fancy. From here it's pretty easy.ain't she sweet?! Maybe I'll make a keychain out of her. It's best to leave it out all together or define iy with shading if you decide to color it in. Slap on some clothes and start adding details. The nose is not defined as a strong line. A nice little Chibi friend to call your own. Voila And there we have it. The mouth is like the letter "D" turned on it's side..Step 4: Define the key features. Step 5: Cleaning up: Use a kneaded eraser (see Materials) and blot away your lighter support lines while darkening in the lines you wish to keep. Just a fast loose stick figure that will serve as our foundation piece. Note that the form is 7 heads .
The Male Body stick figure stage 2: Notice that you can draw a line straight up and down from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet. ARMS 2 and a half heads down is where we locate the belly button. Shoulders are 2 or more heads wide. LEGS ..(mouse over the image to see the guides)This is also where the elbow goes if the arm is hanging naturally at his sides. Shoulders are a Head and a half from the top. Knees are 5 heads down. (more for heroic types. Body mass is distibuted equally on both sides of this axis for balance.less for dweebies) Hips are about a head and a half wide. Hips should be narrower than the shoulders. The arm starts at the shoulder and ends with the hands around mid-thigh.high. Keep it loose at this stage but be wary of your proportions. Hips are 3 heads down.
arms and legs are formed.In ANIME. Here's a little help for the chest. The Male Body Sketch figure stage 1: Study muscle groups to get an idea of how the shoulders. The Knees are located halfway between the top of the hip and the bottom of the foot. . the legs are slightly longer than the upper half of the body.
Emphasis is placed on the shoulders rather than the hips. Now's where you start tightening up your art. The Kneaded eraser is my best friend at . The cleaner you get at the end of this stage makes the next stage that much easier. The Male Body Sketch figure stage 2: I gradually start to build him by outlining my fleshed out sketch from the last stage and smoothing over all the "Ball and Cone" joints I used to build him with.The Male figure carries itself different than the female. Grab a kneaded eraser and start blotting away the fine sketchy lines and keep only the lines you wish to use for your final piece.
Try to use the rules here to make different poses and characters. I go over and start correcting mistakes I made in the building process and get the art really tight for inking. It shouldn't be used as an A to B to C tutorial because that just shows you how to copy stuff. There's nothing worse than inking sloppy pencils so BE CLEAN!! The Male Body Final Figure: This tutorial is to serve as a reference guide to give you an idea of how to construct a body.let me know if I can explain anything further to you and I'll do my best to assist. As always. . removing my stray lines and getting a nice.. clean.this point as I blot over her. usable piece of art..
Dra wa bea n You sit dow n to dra w and I was looking at .
k See how The we'll fact atta that ch I the use limb d a A bean at any angle: bea n Practice drawing the bean shape from different angles and sha imagining how the limbs would attach to it in that position..so it's not reall ya bea A n. that Ima it's gine you rnow that old it's sch infla ool ted G.I. The Torso in to it's entirety is about 3 heads high (from collar to groin) The makupper torse being 2 heads and the waist being 1 head tall.le a gs ball and A arm fini s she pop d ped wor off. Double check your proportions.you Ball oon ani mal s OK. e this tors o wou . and Joe you doll can with twis the t it hea like d. .ju ne st w vag vie uely w bea n Ima sha gine ped now . pe Be creative.
The wor k has a mor e fluid feel to it. Try this met hod out if you r finis hed art is look ing too bloc ky. . It was quic k.yed it in. eas y and I didn 't spe nd an hou r wor king on the upp er tors o and wai st as sep erat e entit ies.
For now just make something like you see here. I'll stick with a standard type here. Notice how the jawline meets up with the vertical earline . The circle is the foundation of the head for any veiwpoint. Male faces aren't as round and heart-shaped as female faces.(Do es it look like Ryo Haz uki to any one else ?) 3/4 View : Step 1. It seems there are more variations available for the male face than the female face. Make the angles sharper and the chin square.the bottom of the chin and the eyeline about halfway between. 3/4 View : Step 3-Facial Divisions Here I decide the facial planes. It doesn't need to be a perfect circle like this. A basic ovoid shape will do nicely..don't come to a point. Measure out the face by figuring the top of the head.the chin Add the chin and Jawline. 3/4 View : Step 2.the oval Draw a circle. It helps me keep the features together and tight..
The mouth about 1/3 the way down from that. I made the halftone in photoshop to give it that "manga" feel .Rough it in Here I lightly figure where the feeatures go using the same rules you learned in my other head tutorials. nevermind).. 3/4 View : Now you got it Here's what I came up with for a final version (granted a messy one). 3/4 View : Step 4.That Male Face The Cheekbones and Jawline is what really helps differentiate your character from other male characters you will create. Male eyes aren't as large and sparkly as female eyes.Clearing it up Now you can start to erase your support lines and concentrate on detailing the features.3/4 View : Step 4. 3/4 View : Step 4. The nose should not be tipped up like on female faces.in which case. Make the eyebrows strong and dark. They are more rectangular than almond shaped and the lash lines arent as heavy. Eyes approximately 1 eye-width apart. It also helps define your character as distictly male if your having problems with you males looking to "feminine" (Or maybe you draw bishoujo style. The ear is placed vertically between the browline and the noseline. Make them more "Wedge" shaped. the bottom of the nose sits on a line halfway between the eyeline and the chin.
ch . I just posted another tutorial on Foreshortening. so you've Pre-Step: Stick Figure Hero! This is as complicated as Step 3: Fleshing it out In my 2 prior tutorials I show you how to draw body parts using balls.Action: ok. cones and cylinders..
. I just posted another tutorial on Foreshortening. cones and cylinders.Step 4: Finishing up: Use a kneaded eraser (see Materials) and blot away your lighter support lines while darkening in the lines you wish to keep.c . Voila Step 1: Stick Step 3: Fleshing it out In my 2 prior tutorials I show you how to draw body parts using balls.
I just posted another tutorial on Foreshortening. cones and cylinders. The character is sneaking into the headquarters of GloboChem to steal the plans for the experimental biotoxin. through the Step 3: Fleshing it out In my 2 prior tutorials I show you how to draw body parts using balls. Voila Step 1: Stick figure set-up Here I got a spy type set-up.ch . I just concentrate on making the Step 2: How do I make it Dynamic? The first thing I draw (and I shoulda shown this first) is the Line of motion. This line is a smooth curve that goes from the top of the characters head.Step 4: Finishing up: Use a kneaded eraser (see Materials) and blot away your lighter support lines while darkening in the lines you wish to keep..
eck those out for Step 4: Finishing up: Use a kneaded eraser (see Materials) and blot away your lighter support lines while darkening in the lines you wish to keep. With Mechs you can be more creative with the proportions. I start with a stick figure. I make sure I leave the shoulders wide and the legs set apart for balance. . Voila Final Note: Nothing helps with Mecha : Step 1-the structure Like everything. I'm sticking to the basics here so I'm going to draw a humanoid mech. You don't even have to make them humanoid.
though armored. I dont really do the Ball & Cone setup. can move freely. If I do I always end up with a Transformer type mech and those are too blocky and old school. What good is a mech if it can't make it's hands meet in front of it.ect. I try and make sure the joints.. I add seam lines and tiny access panels all over the meI made the chest cavity large cuz because that's where the engine would have to be...roughing in Now here's where I do mechs different than humans. Large bulges that house machinery. This mechs about 9 ft tall and unmanned .is it for urban use? Space? Does it doe heavy lifting? Does it need to be fast? Does it need to withstand harsh environments? Mech : Step 3-detailing After I get to a shape I'm happy with I start erasing unecessary lines and and darkening the ones I want to keep. Armored joints. Instead I think bulky and powerful. sensor arrays. Think about the function of the mech.Mecha : Step 2..
Step 1: Draw a basic figure When you first draw your character don't worry about putting clothes on yet. Instead.Mech : Step 4. Machines look better with a heavy outline and fine lines on interior details. make sure you have them fleshed out correctly (see the body tutorial if you need help with proportions). I use a realatively thin line for the details. Print this picture out and grab a pencil to follow along . boots and sleeves but no details yet.inking I've added a few more details and got the the inking stage. Here Ive included lines to help me place the waistline.
. waist. her right thigh). Imagine small hoola hoops around your arms.Step 3: Go with the flow I now start to fill in the clothing based on the lines I discoverd on the last page. If you raise your arm. (cont. neck and legs. Fold lines radiate out and away from the bends. Notice the clothing is smooth and taught over areas that are bent or push against the fabric (her left knee.. her chest. Other areas of clothes in a more relaxed state.). her left elbow. succumb to gravity and fall in downwards. how does the hoola hoop hang? Which part of your arm is touching the hoola hoop? The part that touches would be were the clothing would outline your arm and the folds would radiate out and away from there.
Clothes can be drawn in the same manner. Draw the buckle as shown here with the strap overlapping the back end of the buckle and ticking into the loop. A little attention to detail will make your pics looks sharper.used for military type characters.Step 4: Clean up If you lept to the right wearing the hoola hoop. You would notice the hoop would touch our waist on the right side and hang towards the area you lept from to the left. The buckle is undone by pressing the tabs toward each other and pulling the ends apart.. The strap is made of webbing instead of leather. Here's a Quick Release buckle. When you landed the hoop would carry the force back to the right trying to continue in the direction you leapt towards. Burne Hogarth has an exceptional book on this subject called "Dynamic Wrinkles and Drapery" Need help with Buckles and laces? You would think the buckle is simple but most people represent it as a square box on a thick line. They bunch up and hang in the opposite direction of the motion. It'll take some practice to get it to look right. .
These aer available on most major gun brand websites: http://www. the Frame and the Grip (handle). I like to just get by. It looks better if you draw the laces as 3D objects rather than a quick line.sigarms. Sorry for the messy ovals.I can't find my template. It takes a little extra time but people notice the effort. Each "tooth" is a small square with a circle on top of it. Snaps are pretty straight forward and you don't really get to see the 2 halves together unless the jacket is open. Again.com/ http://www. .com/ http://www.glock.com/ http://www. The major parts of a pistol is the Slide.com/ Beats getting the suspicious looks when buying a gun magazine.they interlock as shown here. Here we have a Glock 26 or "Baby Glock" 9x19 Basic Shapes Break the gun down into basic shapes. but for close ups. Laces are often represented as criss cross lines. good for detail in a close up. The tongue of the shoe/boot should push through the criss cross a little bit to give the impression that the laces are cinched down on the shoe. Also.ruger-firearms. The Basic Pistol The best way to draw a gun is to look at pictures of guns.Zippers are usually represented as a zig-zag if you are distanced from your character. try and make it like you see here.hecklerkoch-usa. Show the one docking end smaller and rounded on the lip. The more you know about the mechanics of guns the better if your a detail freak. Show them overlapping each other and passing through the eyelets... Notice how I curved the material around the eyelets to show that. since the laces are pullig toward each other there will be buckling in the material around the stress points.
Only reference material will help you here.don't worry about it. The force of the bullet leaving slams the slide back and loads the next bullet into the chamber... Again.the red sillouette is more or less the actual shape of a Glock26. the firing pin (not shown) smacks the back of the bullet and sends the lead part flying down the barrel.. The Grey area is the basic shape we already had. The esthetics Now that we now the basic shap and what components are needed to make a gun it's time to pretty it up a little with some sleek lines.Make sure the top of the barrel lines up with the top of the cylinder so the bullet can ..the brass casing ejects out the top of the gun.. depending on single or double action... The most important difference is a Cylinder( shown in red) instead of a clip.but it's more detail than a comic book artist usually needs :) The handle should be wide and long enough to accomodate the clip..and smacks the butt of the bullet and sends the lead flying down the barrel. The trigger ratchets the cylinder around to bring the next full chamber up to the barrel. When the trigger is squeezed.after you get more comfortable with styles of pistols you can start getting creative with the lines.just look at Shirow's Seburo sidearms! A little Detail Notice I've added a bevel to the slide and put the verticle grips on the rear of the slide. reference material helps a lot.. Pulling back on the trigger also releases the (green) hammer. Build up a scrapbook of guns to whip out whenever your stuck..The Guts My father's a gun aficionado so he'll laugh his head off when he sees my lame cross-section and explanation.. Pulling back on the slide pulls the first bullet out of the clip and into the chamber.. Wanna see more? The Basic Shapes The Revolvers has a few different parts than the Pistol.. I've contoured the grip and made the trigger well a bit more comfortable.
fo you.exit the gun safely. You could take off the whole empty cylinder and slap another loaded one in there. Some. Detailing: Have fun with it. I gave this one a laser sight under the barrel and a nice ergonomic grip so it doesn't look like an old cowboy gun.. like this one. . Check out the gun manufacturer links on the previous page.. Reloading There's a few styles of revolver. There's some really sweet "New Style" revolvers. pivot foward for quick loading (ala TRIGUN). Some have the cylinder flip out to the side.
make sure my perspective is correct. .See? After I'm happy with the roughs I can start concentrating on how they would "panel out" on a page. ....ect..which panels should be big.PolyKarbon StoryBoards Page1 Storyboards are essential for laying out action and deciding camera angles..... I start by just having a grid of 6 squares.. Only 1 action per square! For example: Script says "Character pulls a coin from pocket and examines it" There are 2 important actions there.which panels should be small. Working from the script I draw each important action in its own square. 1) Character pulls coin from pocket 2) Character examines it (The journey of the coin from the pocket to being in front of the face is not important) So I would have 1 panel being the character rummaging for the coin and the next panel being the coin held up in front of the character.yadda yadda I lay the new roughs on a light table and repencil them in a SUPER clean fashion.
yadda yadda I lay the new roughs on a light table and repencil them in a SUPER clean fashion..See? After I'm happy with the roughs I can start concentrating on how they would "panel out" on a page..make sure my perspective is correct... Working from the script I draw each important action in its own square.ect. 1) Character pulls coin from pocket 2) Character examines it (The journey of the coin from the pocket to being in front of the face is not important) So I would have 1 panel being the character rummaging for the coin and the next panel being the coin held up in front of the character.... .which panels should be big.which panels should be small. I start by just having a grid of 6 squares... . Only 1 action per square! For example: Script says "Character pulls a coin from pocket and examines it" There are 2 important actions there.PolyKarbon StoryBoards Page2 Storyboards are essential for laying out action and deciding camera angles.
I lay the original on a light table and trace the form out so I can save time when drawing another set to describe another outfit.. I also use it to help me figure out her proportions to other characters and objects. Back and Side. After I draw the initial views.Front. I use t to make sure I'm drawing her the same way everytime.PolyKarbon Date:07-00 I've had several requests to post some more of my "technical" work stuff. This here is a Turnaround or Model Sheet.s . ..
. Hohner sometimes has trouble dealing with the stark contrast in the way he used to view the world versus the way .however. A wetware prosthetic compensates for his condition.PolyKarbon: Hohner Character sheet 10-2000 Hohner was born with Down's Syndrome.
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