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Krakow In Your Pocket

Krakow In Your Pocket

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Kraków
No. 98, February - March 2016
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inyourpocket.com
February - March 2016 3 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Contents
Feature
Tadeusz Kościuszko 6
Arrival & Transport 12
City Basics 18
Basic History 20
Culture & Events 22
Restaurants 28
Polish Food 46
Cafés 56
Nightlife 58
Kazimierz Nightlife 64
Sightseeing 66
The Royal Route 68
Old Town 70
Wawel 84
Kazimierz 88
Podgórze 94
Jewish Ghetto 98
Nowa Huta 100
Further Afield
Wieliczka 104
Auschwitz 107
Tarnów 110
Leisure 114
Shopping 118
Directory 124
Hotels 126
Maps & Index
Tram Map 132
Nowa Huta Map 135
City Map 136
City Centre Map 139
Street Index 140
Listings Index 141
Features Index 142
Having a think over a drink with Jerzy Waszyngton (George Washington) in the Kościuszko Mound wax museum (p.11), we wax poetic
about Kazimierz Pułaski (left) on page 82, and Tadeusz Kościuszko (right) on page 06.
4 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Foreword
Whatever happened to ‘Winter Wonderland?’ you might be
asking yourself. Well, to their credit, the Poles did stretch
the holidays out over an entire two months before the
pine needles finally fell away and the smog and slush won
their war over the tinsel and twinkling lights. Though the
city may be hunkering down for the last two inglorious
months of winter, don’t think for a second that it’s gone
into hibernation - it hasn’t, and neither should you.
Kraków still boasts two of the most magical historical
districts in Europe (UNESCO says so) in the Old Town
(p.68) and Kazimierz (p.88), plus you simply can’t take the
shine off of Wawel Royal Castle (p.84). This city’s beauty
is intoxicating at any time of year, but having the world’s
highest density of bars and clubs (p.58) certainly helps.
Don’t fail to familiarise yourself with the wonderful world
of flavoured Polish vodkas (p.44), or the local innovation of
hot mulled beer (p.65) while in town. Alternatively, those
aiming for maximum bleakness can always make the trip
out to Auschwitz-Birkenau (p.107), or stay within a short
taxi ride of the hotel by visiting Schindler’s Factory (p.96),
the Pharmacy Under the Eagle (p.95), the Former Gestapo
Cells (p.78), or the new PRL Museum (p.102). Local tales
of WWII tragedy are widely known, however, so this issue
we’re shining a light on one of the country’s most heroic
icons - Tadeusz Kościuszko. If the weather is bumming you
out, find yourself a cosy cafe and allow our scholarly feature
(starting on page 6) to introduce you to quite simply the
greatest Pole ever; if his story doesn’t inspire you to name
your first-born son Tadeusz, well we simply don’t know
what will. Whatever your interest, within these pages we’ve
compiled and dutifully updated all of the information you
could ever need (and a lot more, actually) to have a great
time in Kraków. You’ve basically got the place to yourself, so
tuck this handy tome under your arm (or, if you’re feeling
randy, in your pocket) and go make the most of it.
CZECH
REPUBLIC
SOUTH
AFRICA
DUTCH
CARIBBEAN
POLAND
ROMANIA
HUNGARY
SERBIA
BOSNIA
ALBANIA
GREECE
FYR MACEDONIA
BULGARIA
MONTENEGRO
ITALY
CROATIA
SLOVENIA
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
UKRAINE
GEORGIA
BELARUS
LITHUANIA
LATVIA
ESTONIA
RUSSIA
GERMANY
BELGIUM
NETHERLANDS
NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND
Publisher
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków
krakow@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Company Office & Accounts
General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676
Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716
Circulation
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Editorial
Writer & Editor: Garrett Van Reed; Research Manager:
Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan, Anna Żbikowska;
Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak;
Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise
stated; Cover © Garrett Van Reed
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Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City
Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD
ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form without written permission from the
copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under
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ABOUT IYP
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Meantime, back in the world of print,
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6 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Feature 1
Tadeusz Kościuszko
History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746–1817). Men who by
the depth of their skills, the purity of their beliefs, the compassion in their hearts
and their uncompromising commitment to a cause are able to inspire not only
individuals, but entire nations. Kościuszko’s highest ideal was freedom, and he
used his own to try and secure it for all those less fortunate. In one country –
Poland – he failed and is remembered as the greatest hero who ever lived.
In another country – America – he succeeded, and yet has been almost
completely forgotten. Read on to learn the story of quite simply the greatest
Pole ever (sorry JPII).
February - March 2016 7 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Tadeusz Kościuszko
wisdom, the Pole remarked, “I would choose rather to leave
all, return home and plant cabbages.” Supervising the
strengthening of Fort Ticonderoga, Kościuszko’s ignored
assertion that cannons be mounted on nearby Sugar Loaf
Hill came back to bite the Americans as the British instead
took the position and forced them to abandon the fort
with hardly a shot fired. Kościuszko would soon get his
vindication however, gaining all credit from the American
command for his choice of Bemis Heights as the place to
engage the enemy when the American side scored victory
in what would become the decisive turning point of the
war – the Battle of Saratoga in October 1777. The victory
at Saratoga not only won the northern campaign, but also
earned the American colonies the alliance of the French as
Louis XVI officially recognised America as an independent
country.
Private cabbage planting comments aside, Kościuszko
won favour in America not only for his intelligence and
expertise, but also for his treatment of the troops, humility
and general agreeability – the latter of which was an
occasional point of contention between the American
command and Kościuszko’s Polish compatriot Kazimierz
Pułaski (p.82). It also sealed his appointment over the
French engineer Radiere as the man in charge of fortifying
the critical position known as the ‘American Gibraltar’ -
West Point, New York. With a workforce of 2,500 under
him, Kościuszko spent the next two years building the
impenetrable fortress that would later become America’s
premier military academy, as suggested by Kościuszko to
General George Washington when they met there in the
first of several encounters.
THE EARLY YEARS:
EDUCATION & HEARTBREAK
Born to parents of noble lineage but modest means
in a small, now non-existent village within the Polish-
Lithuanian Commonwealth in modern day Belarus, young
Kościuszko received a well-rounded ‘gentleman’s’ education
before shipping off to Warsaw in 1765 to enroll in the
Cadet Academy. Rather patriotically trained as a military
engineer, Kościuszko achieved the rank of captain and was
granted one of only four royal scholarships to continue his
education in Paris. Devoting himself to military study for
the next five years, Kościuszko basked in his exposure to the
ideals and philosophy of Enlightenment-era Paris, however
he was beset by financial problems and could only watch
from afar as his country was carved like a Thanksgiving
turkey by its land-grabbing neighbours Russia, Prussia and
Austria during what became known as the ‘First Partition of
the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth’ (1772).
Finding his country enslaved and pandering to outside
powers, Kościuszko retired to the Polish countryside where
a job was arranged for him teaching the children of one
of the richest men in Poland, Lord Sosnowski, a friend of
his father’s. The penniless Kościuszko soon fell in love with
one of his pupils, Ludwika Sosnowska, whose hand in
marriage had already been promised to Prince Lubomirski.
Her father condemned the relationship and accounts vary
as to whether Tadeusz and Ludwika attempted to elope, he
kidnapped her, or they were separated before he had the
opportunity to liberate her from the marital arrangement
made on her behalf. Having lost the woman that was to
be the only love of his life, however, Kościuszko was either
forced or felt compelled to flee the country.
Eventually Kościuszko returned to Paris where all the buzz
of the day was about the American fight for independence.
The French, who went about aggravating the British
and undermining their interests abroad with special
zeal, openly supported the outbreak of the Revolution,
romanticising its ideals to the impressionable Kościuszko.
Seeing an opportunity to apply his credentials to a cause
complicit with his own beliefs, Kościuszko emigrated to
America and joined the struggle.
‘REAL AMERICAN HERO’
Arriving at the age of 30 in Philadelphia, the cradle of the
revolution, Kościuszko was quickly put to work fortifying
the crucial city’s defences along the Delaware River.
These defences, which were never tested by the British,
remain to this day and earned the Pole the confidence of
the American command and the rank of Colonel in the
engineering core. Sent to the Northern Army under the
command of General Horatio Gates, who took an instant
liking to his engineer, Kościuszko was asked to report on
the defences of the Hudson River which were underway at
Ticonderoga. Appalled by the poor strategy in place and
frustrated over his suggestions being superseded by flawed
Bust of Kościuszko inside the United States Capitol building.
8 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Tadeusz Kościuszko
Having distinguished himself in his valorous service to the
American cause, upon the war’s conclusion Kościuszko was
promoted by Congress to the rank of Brigadier General,
given American citizenship and granted land near present
day Columbus, Ohio. However Kościuszko wanted nothing
more than to return to his native Poland, whose aggressive
neighbours further threatened its sovereignty.
KOŚCIUSZKO ON THE RISE
When Kościuszko returned to his boyhood home in 1784,
there were many peasants under his authority whose
labour he immediately reduced, freeing the women from
serfdom and cutting the obligations of the men to two days
a week. As a result he lived in poverty tending his own farm
and gardens, the stipend he was supposed to receive from
America suspiciously failing to ever reach him and not being
of his particular concern. Having arrived in his struggling
nation with an enhanced adherence to the democratic ideas
which had attracted him since his earliest days, and with the
first-hand experience of how a largely untrained and unpaid
volunteer army could defeat a much greater opponent
through the sheer strength of their belief in the cause and
their passion for freedom, it should come as little surprise
that Tadeusz Kościuszko’s retirement was quite short-lived.
The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth at this time was
making a belated effort to strengthen itself against the
surrounding powers through controversial reform, and
when The Great Sejm of 1788-92 initiated the creation
of a large army to defend its borders Kościuszko found
himself being drawn back into the military sphere. On May
3, 1791 the Commonwealth created the first constitution
in modern Europe (second in the world after America),
enacting widespread reforms and unwittingly provoking
the surrounding powers, who felt their influence over the
politics of the Commonwealth were threatened. Four days
after the passing of the constitution, the Russian army
(wouldn’t you know it) crossed the border headed for
Warsaw, triggering the Polish-Russian War of 1792.
Kościuszko had already applied himself to the country’s
new army under commander-in-chief Prince Józef
Poniatowski. Betrayed by their supposed Prussian allies
Kościuszko left before West Point was finished however,
wishing to join his friend Gates in the southern campaign. In a
less than trivial side note to a well-known story of the American
Revolution, it was Kościuszko’s plans for West Point that the
traitor Benedict Arnold attempted to sell to the British after
he took over command of Kościuszko’s abandoned post.
Upon his arrival to Philadelphia at the outset of the war,
Kościuszko had wasted no time in reading The Declaration
of Independence and found himself so moved by its
language, inspired and in concert with its ideology that
he determined to meet the man who wrote it, Thomas
Jefferson. En route to joining the southern campaign he
stopped in Virginia to meet with Jefferson and the two
men began a lifelong friendship which became so binding
that Kościuszko later made Jefferson the executor of his
will (having never married or had children). In describing
Kościuszko to Gates, Jefferson called him “the purest son of
liberty among you all that I have ever known, and of that
liberty which is to go to all, not to the few or the rich alone.”
It was in Virginia and his time in the South that Kościuszko
was also made acutely aware of the inhumanity of the
slave trade and the troubling plight of Africans indentured
throughout the South, which he later attempted to use his
moderate means to alleviate as much as he could.
When Kościuszko reported to the Southern Army, Gates had
been deposed following a disastrous defeat at the Battle of
Camden and Kościuszko served the rest of the war under his
successor General Nathaniel Greene, who held the Pole
in the highest esteem. Together they orchestrated the re-
conquest of the Carolinas and Georgia, in which Kościuszko’s
expertise as a scout, engineer, soldier and commander
proved indispensable. During the campaign, which involved
guerilla-like warfare across inhospitable terrain, Kościuszko
saw extensive action as a soldier and was very nearly
killed on several occasions, sustaining a bayonet wound to
the posterior in one engagement. He finished the war in
Charleston, South Carolina, finally applying his engineering
prowess to a spectacular fireworks display upon news of the
signing of the Treaty of Paris in April of 1783.
Plaque on Kraków’s market square marking the spot where
Kościuszko swore an oath to lead the Polish nation against
oppression and initiated the Kościuszko Uprising.
SAY MY NAME
Though commonly anglicised as ‘Thaddeus Kosciusko,’
and despite adorning dozens of streets, bridges, parks,
monuments and other world landmarks - including
an island in Alaska and Australia’s highest mountain
- the name ‘Kościuszko’ has ultimately proven too
unpronounceable to those outside of Poland to secure this
great man his rightful place in history. No one remembers
a name they can’t pronounce, after all. That’s why we want
you to get hooked on phonics and say it with us now:
Koash-choosh-ko.
Koash-choosh-ko.
Koś-ciusz-ko.
Kościuszko.
February - March 2016 9 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Tadeusz Kościuszko
who did not oppose the advancing Russians, Poniatowski
and Kościuszko defeated a much larger army at Zieleńce,
and Kościuszko was among the first recipients of the newly
minted Virtuti Militari medal which remains PL’s highest
military decoration to this day. Earning the reputation of
Poland’s most brilliant military commander at ensuing
battles, King Stanisław Poniatowski promoted Kościuszko to
Lieutenant General, however the cause was immediately
lost when the King suddenly surrendered to the Russians
before word of the worthless promotion had even reached
Kościuszko’s camp. The ‘Second Partition of Poland’ (January
21, 1793) was set in motion, Polish independence was
restricted and its population shrank to one third of the size it
had been before 1772. Outraged by the King’s capitulation,
Kościuszko – who hadn’t lost a single battle of the short-
lived campaign – and the other notable commanders and
politicians still faithful to the cause emigrated to Leipzig to
plot an uprising against Russian rule in Poland.
THE KOŚCIUSZKO UPRISING
In the aftermath of the Second Partition of Poland, those
constituencies of the population which had opposed the
reforms of the May Constitution had lost all credibility and
Kościuszko saw the prospect of orchestrating a successful
national uprising as less than impossible and more than
necessary. Organisation was extremely difficult, however;
preparations were slow and unrest was breaking out as the
Russian and Prussian governments dissolved the Polish Army
and arrested supporters of independence. With the outlook
increasingly desperate, Kościuszko was forced to execute
his plan before he wanted and announced the Uprising on
Kraków’s market square on March 24th, 1794. Assuming
the powers of commander-in-chief of all Polish forces,
he issued an act of mobilisation requiring at least one able-
bodied male from every five houses in Małopolska to join
his army equipping themselves with an axe, pike or carbine.
Arming the troops proved to be a problem and Kościuszko
was forced to form large units armed only with scythes, a
new homemade variation of which he is credited with
designing during the Uprising. Hardly a professional army,
the Russian Tsarina, Catherine the Great, quickly ordered
an attack on Kraków hoping to quash the Uprising in one
blow. On April 4th the two sides collided near the village
of Racławice, with Kościuszko’s forces actually having the
man advantage if you include all the peasants with sharp
sticks. After a bloody battle they won the day, but were
too weak to pursue the Russian troops, who remained in
the area. Though of no lasting strategic significance, news
of the Polish victory spread quickly, rousing great support
for Kościuszko’s Uprising. Today the battle is still a source of
national pride and also considered to be the beginning of
the Polish peasantry’s ascension from second-class serfs to
equally entitled citizens.
Inspired by Kościuszko’s victory, insurrections broke
out across Poland, particularly in Vilnius and in Warsaw,
where a 6,000 strong Russian garrison was forced to
evacuate the city. On May 7th, 1794 Kościuszko issued the
‘Proclamation of Połaniec’ – a less snappy-sounding fore-
bearer of Lincoln’s ‘Emancipation Proclamation’ in which he
partially abolished serfdom in Poland and granted civil
liberties to the peasantry. Though the law never fully
came to fruition and was rejected by much of the nobility,
it was a landmark announcement and did much to draw
peasants into the conflict. Kościuszko’s ideals had mass
appeal to all the oppressed; in what has become a historical
footnote, Józef Berkelicz called Kościuszko a ‘messenger of
God’ and founded a Jewish cavalry unit to fight at his side –
the first all-Jewish military unit since biblical times.
Epic in both scope and size, Jan Matejko’s historical painting ‘Battle of Racławice’ can be seen in the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.76).
10 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Despite the steady and swift recruitment of forces,
the Polish defeats began to accumulate once Prussia
entered the war in an alliance with Russia. Kościuszko
was defeated in the Battle of Szczekonicy and Kraków
was captured uncontested soon afterwards. Though an
uprising in Wielkopolska was enjoying some success, a
newly equipped Russian corps was advancing on Warsaw
in an effort to join the existing Russian force. To prevent
their coalition, Kościuszko boldly, fatalistically provoked
the Battle of Maciejowice on October 10th, making
a misjudgement and bearing the brunt of both armies
which engaged him simultaneously. His army outmanned
by more than four to one, Kościuszko was wounded and
captured in the crushing defeat. Things only got worse
for new revolutionary commander Tomasz Wawrzecki as
a vicious Russian assault on the Warsaw suburb of Praga
destroyed the district and claimed the lives of 20,000
inhabitants. On November 5th, Warsaw was captured
and less than two weeks later Wawrzecki was forced to
surrender. The flames of revolution had been extinguished
across Poland and a year later the ‘Third Partition of Poland’
(October 24th, 1795) divided its lands between Austria,
Prussia and Russia, officially erasing it from the jigsaw of
Europe for what would transpire as the next 123 years.
THE LATER YEARS: EXILE
In a state close to death, Kościuszko was taken to Saint
Petersburg and imprisoned with his closest surviving
comrades and advisors within Prince Orlov’s Marble Palace
where they remained for two years. Here he was generally
well-treated, however his wounds had been poorly tended
and he would be crippled for the rest of his life. Upon the
death of Catherine II in November 1796, amongst the
first acts of the new Tsar Paul I – a man with profound
sympathy and respect for Kościuszko’s dedication to his
country – was to pardon and release him, along with 12,000
Polish prisoners from the Uprising, under the condition
Kościuszko swear an oath of allegiance to the Tsar. After a
morally excruciating deliberation, Kościuszko resigned to
the oath and left Russia to make the long journey to what
he considered his second home, America.
Kościuszko received a hero’s welcome upon arrival in
Philadelphia on August 18, 1797. Here he lived for a year
entertaining old friends, principally soon-to-be US president
Thomas Jefferson, who quickly arranged his secret passage
to Europe, obtaining him false documents and the means
of the journey, when Kościuszko felt he could do service
to his country once again by negotiating with Napoleon.
Before he left America, he entrusted Jefferson with his last
will and testament, which stated that the money from the
substantial estate he had been granted (and never visited)
be used to free and educate Jefferson’s own, and as many
additional, black slaves as possible. Jefferson, betraying
his friend, later failed to execute the will and none of the
designated money was used for the betterment of blacks,
though the first school for coloured people in America was
named for Kościuszko, opening in Newark in 1826.
Returning again to Paris, Kościuszko quickly developed
an intuitive distrust of Napoleon and refused to be used
as a pawn to gain favour with Poles. Napoleon gained it
without him and Kościuszko isolated himself from his
countrymen by condemning the false Emperor. After the
eventual fall of Napoleon’s empire, Kościuszko met with
Tsar Alexander I over returning Poland to the map by her
Tadeusz Kościuszko
FURTHER READING
THE PEASANT PRINCE: THADDEUS KOSCIUSZKO
AND THE AGE OF REVOLUTION.
By Alex Storozynski, published by Thomas Dunne Books
If you think we’ve exaggerated the extent to which
Kościuszko has been forgotten or underappreciated
by western historians, you could kindly explain how a
scholarly account of his life and accomplishments went
unwritten in English until April of 2009. Fortunately
Pulitzer-winning author Alex Storozynski rectified
that, writing a well-researched, comprehensive and
colourfully told biography that paints a complex and
humanitarian portrait of its subject which should
do much to retrieve Kościuszko from obscurity and
return him to his proper place in history. Available in
paperback, The Peasant Prince is highly readable and
highly recommended.
‘True Beauty’: Articles attesting to the cult of Kościuszko on display
in the museum at Kościuszko Mound.
February - March 2016 11 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
as a strategic lookout point. Demolishing a chapel of St.
Bronisława at the site, the thoughtful Austrians actually
built a new chapel, incorporating it into the stronghold.
By contrast, the Germans later threatened to entirely level
the Mound and surrounding fortifications during their
WWII occupation as they set about destroying all Polish
monuments and national symbols (along with 3 million
Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress were destroyed,
the complex has been restored and significant engineering
improvements have been made to the Mound to ensure
its longevity.
Climbing to the peak is tiring work, but the panoramic
views of Kraków are a worthwhile reward. The neo-Gothic
Chapel of St. Bronisława, which contains a medley of objects
connected to Kościuszko’s life, can also be visited and the
surrounding fortifications also house two cafes, a radio
station, restaurant, and four additional historical exhibitions
- one of which is wax museum of famous Poles. Admission
to all exhibits is included with admission to the Mound.
QF-3, Al. Waszyngtona 1, tel. (+48) 12 425 11 16, www.
kopieckosciuszki.pl. Mound open daily from 09:00 until
dusk. Exhibits open 09:30 - 15:30; from March open 09:30
- 16:30. Admission 12/10zł, family ticket 30-40zł. N
TADEUSZ KOŚCIUSZKO MONUMENT
Greeting visitors above the northern entrance to Wawel
Castle is the slightly larger-than-life bronze likeness of
Tadeusz Kościuszko on horseback, graciously doffing his
cap to the crowds. One of the city’s most popular pomniks
(monuments), the hero of Polish and American freedom
was created by Polish sculptor Leonard Marconi, but not cast
until after the artist’s death in 1900, during the city’s period
of Austrian occupation. As a result it waited in a Podgórze
warehouse until after WWI, when independence finally
returned to Kościuszko’s homeland exactly 103 years after his
passing. Twenty years later the Nazis took a liking to Wawel
Castle, but certainly couldn’t abide with having Kościuszko
there and destroyed the monument in 1940. The current
replica is a gift from the people of the German city of Dresden,
and, after thorough examinations that it wasn’t a Trojan horse,
was placed near Wawel Cathedral, where the former General’s
remains are interred in the national pantheon. The city of
Kraków gave an identical monument to the people of Detroit
for some reason in 1978.QWawel Hill.
original borders and met with much of the same false
promises and ultimate betrayal. Despairing that he would
never witness the arrival of freedom in his homeland,
Kościuszko retreated to Solothurn, Switzerland where his
friend Franciszek Zeltner was mayor. Here he spent the final
years of his life before old wounds, old age and typhoid
fever finally caught him on October 15th, 1817 at age 71.
WHAT TO SEE
Monuments, memorial plaques and objects named in
Kościuszko’s honour abound not only across America
and Poland, but the entire world. Nowhere will you find
the name and image of Kościuszko more cherished than
in Kraków, however, where his mortal remains lie in the
Royal Crypts beneath Wawel Cathedral alongside the
country’s kings (p.87). Below we list the most noteworthy
sites connected to his memory which should be seen and
visited by tourists.
KOŚCIUSZKO MOUND (KOPIEC KOŚCIUSZKI)
Upon Kościuszko’s passing Polish authorities demanded his
body be sent from Switzerland to be interred in the Wawel
Royal Crypts (p.87). Such was the love for Kościuszko that
the people proposed to honour him with a monument in
the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak (p.96)
and Wanda (p.103) – and to make it the grandest in Kraków.
With the approval of the Norbertine Sisters who granted
the land, city authorities began developing an artificial
burial mound to be constructed atop Bronisława Hill in
Zwierzyniec. When construction began there was no lack
of pomp and ceremony. First mass was held, followed
by speeches; documents, heirlooms and artefacts from
Kościuszko’s illustrious life were placed – as well as soil from
his many battlefields, including those in America – before
friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries dumped the first
wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years people of all
ages from all over Poland brought soil from their villages
to add to the mound. Though a committee was formed for
its oversight, the work was all done voluntarily. Officially
completed in November 1823, Kościuszko Mound stands
34 metres high, 326 metres above sea level, and on a clear
day the Tatra Mountains can be seen from the top.
In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities
built a brick fortress around the Mound, which they used
Tadeusz Kościuszko
12 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Kraków Airport | Photo by Emily Meadows
Though getting through check-in and security should still
be relatively speedy, travellers should give themselves
some extra time to negotiate any unexpected delays on
the local roadways around the airport (if not taking the
train), where some work may still be going on.
GETTING TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
The best way to get between the airport and
Kraków’s Old Town is by train. Trains run every 30mins
between 04:00 and 24:00 and depart from platform 3 of
Kraków’s train station at :04 and :34 past the hour; and
from Kraków Balice Airport at :17 and :47 past the hour.
The journey time is 18mins, and passengers are dropped
off at a new Balice station that is right near the airport
terminal. Ticket prices have actually been reduced to 8zł,
and can be bought from ticket machines on the platform,
or on-board the train.
In the unlikely event that you can’t take the train,
public buses 292 (departs every 20mins) and 208
(once an hour) also make the journey, as does night
bus 902 (hourly departures between 23:25 and 04:55).
Bus is the cheaper option, but the journey takes
35-45mins depending on traffic. Buy a 4/2zł single
journey fare from the ticket machine at the bus-stop
or on-board the bus. Upon leaving Terminal 1, you’ll
find the bus stop to your right. To get to the airport,
buses depart from the Kraków Bus Station (ul. Bosacka
18, E-1) at the stop ‘Dworzec Główny Wschód’ - located
on the lower level of the bus station, just east of the
train station. Exact bus times can be checked online at
mpk.krakow.pl.
Kraków is well-connected regarding transport, with a new
airport just 17km west of the centre, a recently modernised
joint train and bus station on the edge of the Old Town, and
some of Poland’s better roads connecting it to Katowice,
Wrocław and Berlin to the west, Tarnów and Rzeszów to
the east, Kielce and Warsaw to the north and Budapest to
the south. The city also boasts a comprehensive and easy-
to-use public transportation system, which some visitors
won’t even find necessary thanks to most attractions
being within easy walking distance of one another (not
to mention walking being one of the best ways to enjoy
Kraków). In this section you’ll find all you need to know
about getting in and out of Kraków, as well as around the
city with general ease.
BY PLANE
KRAKÓW AIRPORT
Located 17km west of the city centre, Kraków Airport
was the subject of a one billion PLN investment, which
resulted in the opening of a brand-new passenger terminal
as recently as the end of September 2015. The newly
expanded and modernised T1 passenger terminal now
handles all airport operations and has been conveniently
designed to connect directly with the parking garage, the
Hilton Garden Inn hotel next to it, and the new Balice train
station via a skywalk leading straight into the terminal.
Terminal 1 now boasts the full services and amenities of
a modern airport, including ATMs and currency exchange,
tourist information, restaurants and shops, new business
lounges and VIP services. Note that car rental is now located
in the multi-storey parking garage across from the terminal.
Arrival & Transport
February - March 2016 13 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Arrival & Transport
AIRPORT TAXIS
The airport has its own ‘Krakow Airport Taxi’ service with
vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrance. The idea
is that this ‘trusted’ service offers a set price range of 69-
89zł from the airport to the Old Town, with no monkey
business and no night time price hikes. In reality, this
service is fleecing people by protecting its ridiculously
high prices. If you go more than 15km the price jumps
from 69zł to 89zł, so expect to pay 89zł unless your hotel
is en route on the outskirts of the city centre. We advise
confirming the fare for the 25-35min journey beforehand,
and trying to split the cost with other travellers in the
same situation.
Conversely, fares from the Old Town back to the airport
range from only 35-70zł depending on time of day, and
whether you call ahead or hail one in the street. Use our Taxi
listings and you should be able to negotiate a daytime fare
as low as 40zł from the Old Town. That’s a huge difference.
Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295 58 00,
www.krakowairport.pl.
BY BUS
KRAKÓW BUS STATION
Although somewhat integrated into the Kraków Glówny
underground transportation centre, Kraków retains its
own separate bus station, located directly east of the
train platforms. The small building comprises two floors
with access to two levels of bus departure gates. Inside
the top floor of the bus station you’ll find the main ticket
windows (tickets can also be bought downstairs), a 24-
hour toilet, food vendors, exchange bureau (kantor), ATM
(bankomat) and information point (open 07:00-20:00).
Lockers for left luggage cost 8-15zł (depending on size) for
24 hours, however are unavailable when the main hall is
closed between 22:00 and 06:00. During this time there is a
separate night time waiting room.
Those arriving to Kraków by bus will find taxis nearby on
both the upper and lower floors, as well connections to
public transport nearby. Unfortunately, the most direct
way into the Old Town is through the underground Kraków
Główny; once you’re inside this labyrinth follow the clearly
marked signs for ‘Stare Miasto’ or ‘ul. Lubicz’ to exit in the
direction of the market square.
Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra
Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour
journey. For exact departure times check the website which
is also in English. Mini-bus is actually your best option for
getting to some popular destinations like Wieliczka and
Niepołomice. Many mini-buses leave not from the bus
station, but from the bus lot across from Galeria Krakowska
at the corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (D-2). Only a
short walk away, follow signs to ‘ul. Pawia’ into and out of
the shopping mall to get there.QE-1, ul. Bosacka 18, tel.
(+48) 703 40 33 40, www.mda.malopolska.pl. Ticket
office open 07:00 - 19:45.
PRIVATE TRANSPORT
KRAKÓW AIRPORT TRANSFER
As noted elsewhere, taxi service from the airport to
the Old Town is a bit of a racket. Skip it by using
this business class transport service that actually
sticks to the promised 69zł fare, no matter where
you’re headed in the centre, what time it is, or which
day of the week. Enjoy the thrill of being greeted
at Arrivals by a well-dressed and English-speaking
chauffeur holding a card with your name on it,
before climbing into a Mercedes and getting out
at the door of your destination. Larger vehicles are
available for groups, and in addition to Kraków and
Katowice airports, this outfit can arrange transport
all across PL, and also nearby capitals like Prague
and Berlin; daytrips to Auschwitz, Wieliczka and
Zakopane are also organised.Qtel. (+48) 662 90 59
05, www.krakowairporttransfer.pl.
KRAKOW SHUTTLE
Kraków and Katowice airport transfers at a good
value, as well as tours of hard to reach sights
in and outside the city ( Wieliczka, Auschwitz).
Call their 24hr infoline for bookings and
assistance.QK-4, tel. (+48) 510 56 00 00, www.
krakowshuttle.com.
phone: +48 662 905 905
email: info@iqpd.pl
We offer transfers to and from
Cracow airport - 69PLN
www.krakowairporttransfer.pl
We also offer one-day trips
from Cracow to:
Auschwitz, Wieliczka Salt Mine,
Zakopane and the
Tatra Mountains
www.bestkrakowtours.pl
14 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Arrival & Transport
BY TRAIN
MAIN TRAIN STATION
Following a 130 million PLN modernisation project,
Kraków Główny - the catch-all title of the city’s vast
underground transportation centre - now offers easy
transfers between train, bus and tram transport. Of course
the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall is also cleverly
integrated, and along with modern conveniences like
waiting rooms, escalators and elevators, you’ll also find
plenty of additional consumer opportunities, including
cafes, supermarkets, souvenir shops, bookstores and more.
With tunnels, stairs and signs leading off in every direction,
it’s all quite confusing (erm, we mean, modern!), but fear
not - IYP will help you sort it out.
SERVICES
Pretty much everything the modern traveller could ever
expect or desire can be found somewhere inside the
sprawling, but spiffy facilities of the Kraków train station.
In addition to being fully handicap-accessible, there are
also special paths for the blind, plus SOS call boxes if you
get lost and can’t find your way out for several days. 24
ticket windows (some open 24hrs), plus several automated
ticket machines (in English) throughout the station limit
the possibility of long queues. The station is wifi-enabled,
there are several waiting areas (including a place for first-
class ticket holders to quarantine themselves), tourist
information (open 06:00 - 22:00), currency exchange,
luggage lockers, showers, and dozens of food and
refreshment opportunities, not to mention the Galeria
Krakowska shopping mall.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Conveniently situated at the north-east edge of the Old
Town, Kraków Główny is within easy walking distance of
most Old Town accommodation, making trams and taxis
largely unnecessary. If you’re travelling further than you
care to walk, you can catch trams to Kazimierz (number
19 in the direction of ‘Borek Fałęcki’ stops at ‘Miodowa’ (E-
5) in Kazimierz, for example) and other parts of the city by
following signs underground to ‘Dworzec Główny Tunel.’
Further tram stops are located just outside the station
exits. To skip that trouble however, when you disembark
your train immediately head up rather than down from the
platform and you’ll find yourself on the top floor parking
garage where taxis are waiting to whisk you away.
STATION HISTORY
The work of architect Peter Rosenbaum, Kraków’s
original main train station hall was built between 1844
and 1846, with neo-renaissance flourishes like turrets
and crenellations whimsically decorating the exterior.
Over the following decades, however, the facade was
continuously re-modelled, and in spite of extensive
modernisation in the 1920s, the first of many plans for its
demise was drawn up in 1934 when efforts were made
to relocate the train station entirely - albeit by only 300
metres. During occupation the Nazis also apparently
found fault with the station and quickly drafted plans
for a new one across the river in Dębniki. Even after
the Nazis were vanquished the train station could not
breathe easy; in keeping with the decentralisation
policy of communist planning, sketches were drawn up
to build a new primary station next to Rondo Mogilska,
an area that the authorities wanted to develop in a bid
to outshine the decadent Old Town. Fortunately cash is
king and the commies had run out of it; the only sign of
their grandiose plan today for over 40 years was the half
finished NOT building, lovingly referred to by locals as
‘Skeletor’ (K-2), which will finally be completed in 2017.
With the Soviet era scuppered and the capitalists at
the controls, the city went about cleaning up the
area around the train station, creating a new plaza in
front of it and capping it with the Galeria Krakowska
shopping mall in 2006. But why stop there when
there’s more EU money to spend? Following a 130
million PLN investment, Kraków Główny was moved
completely underground in the form of a modern
transportation hub connecting the city’s train, bus and
local tram services. Opened as recently as February
2014, the new train/transportation centre offers even
more commercial opportunities and does a great job
of making the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall, rather
than the square in front of it, the main gateway into the
city for new arrivals. Go figure.
And what of the old station building? Now obsolete, its
future is uncertain, but there are rumours that the local
government has been in talks to purchase it. Here’s to
putting it to good use.
February - March 2016 15 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Arrival & Transport
BY CAR
Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different
traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in
the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country.
Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in
front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside
urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/
hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights
switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle,
first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker
and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland
also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum
blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single
beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences
as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when
driving), however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licences technically invalid (though this has never
been a problem for anyone we know).
With that out of the way, how to get here? The A4 highway
runs right through Kraków connecting it to Berlin (via
Katowice, Opole and Wrocław) to the west and Rzeszów to
the east (via Tarnów). While points east are currently toll-
free, a 10zł toll is paid when you enter the motorway in the
direction of Katowice, and again when you exit.
Driving around the city itself is incredibly frustrating
thanks to constant roadwork, one-way streets, streets that
require a permit to drive down, and high traffic volume;
parking is yet another challenge. Put it all together and
we recommend you ditch your vehicle in favour of public
transportation at the first opportunity. Street parking is
available between the large parking signs on the sidewalks,
and is free on weekends; otherwise buy a parking pass
from the ticket machine (most of which only take coins,
of course) or neon-bibbed warden patrolling the area, and
place it on the driver’s side of your dashboard. The cost of
street parking is 3zł for the first hour, 3.50zł for the second,
4.10zł for the third, and after that back to 3zł. Public parking
lots are also marked on the map in the back of this guide.
If you opt to walk - and we encourage you to do so,
discovering the Old Town on foot is dreamy - you’ll find that
getting out of the station is a bit of a challenge. There are at
least four exits and it’s wise to choose the correct one, based
on where you want to go. Following signs to ‘ul. Pawia’ will
lead you straight into the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall
(in the words of Admiral Ackbar: “It’s a traaap!”). Signs to
‘Dworzec Autobusowy’ or ‘ul. Bosacka’ will put you on the
east side of the transport complex (further from the market
square). If you want to head straight to the market square
(do it, it’s only 10mins away!) it is easier to take the stairs
down from the platforms to the old ‘Magda’ tunnel, rather
than the escalators into the new complex. Once in the
tunnel there is a staircase just after platform 1 that will lead
you to daylight. If you end up in the new main complex,
follow the clearly marked signs to ‘Stare Miasto’ or ‘ul. Lubicz’
to escape. Once outside, cross the plaza in front of the old
station building (Galeria Krakowska is on your right) to the
Andels Hotel and follow the crowds through the underpass
(D-2); bear right and enjoy a stroll through the Planty Park
for two blocks before making a left on Floriańska Street at
the Barbican (D-2) and you’re on the ‘Path of Kings’ to the
market square. You’ve arrived.
DEPARTING BY TRAIN
With the train station having been moved completely
underground, there’s no longer a clear-cut main entrance,
but rather several ways to enter. Basically it is directly
underneath the train platforms and bus station (E-1), so use
those as your geographical targets and you’ll find your way;
you can also cut through Galeria Krakowska to get there.
Easily accessed by public transport, there are tram stops all
around the train station. If you take the tram or bus to the
‘Dworzec Głowny’ stop you will end up somewhere near the
intersection of Basztowa/Lubicz and Pawia/Westerplatte
streets (D-2, there are several stops at this intersection);
head through the underpass (if necessary) and across the
square in front of Galeria Krakowska to the train platforms.
If you take the tram or bus to ‘Dworzec Główny Zachód’
(D-1), enter Galeria Krakowska, descend one level and
follow the signs. If you take the tram to ‘Dworzec Główny
Tunel’ (E-1) you are basically already in the underground
transport centre - just follow signs to the train platforms.
Finally, if you take a tram or bus to ‘Dworzec Główny
Wschód’ (E-1) navigate yourself through the roundabout
toward the buses and you will see the main entrance of the
new train station. All of these are perfectly good options, it
just depends where you are coming from.
Station departures (odjazdy) are listed on yellow
timetables, arrivals (przyjazdy) are the white ones; check
the timetables online at the Polish railways website -
rozklad.pkp.pl. If you want a seat on a particular train
it is best to book ahead. If in a rush, tickets can also be
bought on board the train from the conductor, but expect
a surcharge.QE-1, ul. Pawia 5a, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757
(from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp.pl.
Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance, seat
reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.
16 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Arrival & Transport
CAR RENTAL
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid
foreign licence or international driving permit. Be aware,
however, that citizens from countries that didn’t ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot
legally drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle
from the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know
from borrowing their girlfriend’s car, or renting one for that
matter). Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving it in a
rental car.
EUROPCAR
Offering both short and long term rental options with
9 different categories of car available for your individual
needs. Excellence in service with benefits tailored to your
specific requirements. Europcar is present at all Polish
airports including Kraków-Balice, tel. 12 258 12 86.QJ-4, ul.
Nadwiślańska 6 (Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 56 96,
www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Internationally trusted service
offering a range a vehicles
from two-door sedans to
luxury mini-vans. Located here near the train station,
with a pick-up/drop-off point nearby at ul. Wita
Stwosza 4 (open 08:00 - 22:00). Also at the airport
(open 06:00 - 24:00; contact by phone possible after
working hours).QJ-2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel. (+48) 601 20
07 02, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 -
13:00, or by prior arrangment.
A wide range of cars
including Audis,
BMWs, Skodas, Kias,
Nissans, Subarus and
the spacious Mercedes E220 CDi station waggon. All cars
are equipped with power steering. Satellite navigation
systems are also available. Special rates offered to those
who order through the Joka website.QD-2, ul. Zacisze 7
(3rd floor, room 7), tel. (+48) 601 54 53 68, www.joka.
com.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed
Sun. Outside of these hours on request.
The ‘Maluch’ - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly
unavailable to rent.
Antique tram outside the City Engineering Museum
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
While Krakow has no underground metro system it does
have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from
05:00-23:00, with night trams and buses continuing less
frequently after that. Check timetables and network maps
online at mpk.krakow.pl (which has English functionality),
and purchase tickets from the handy ticket machines (also
in English) at major stops, on-board most trams and buses,
or from the driver immediately on boarding if there is no
ticket machine. Note that the ticket machines at stops take
bills and bank cards, but most of those on board trams and
buses take coins only, so have some change handy.
Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed,
allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within
the alloted time. The cheapest fare is good for 20mins at a
cost of 2.80zł. By our estimation, this is about the time it
should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic, and ideal
for travel around the Old Town, Kazimierz and Podgórze. If
you’re going outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example),
we recommend you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80zł.
1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend
family passes for 16.00zł are also options. Note that ISIC
and Euro‹26 Student cards are valid for transport ticket
discounts, but you must carry your ID and be under 26.
Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately
on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board,
even if you bought your ticket on-board. Beware that sneaky
plain-clothed inspectors regularly travel on the lines handing
out costly fines to those without valid tickets.
Find a map of Kraków’s tram system
on p.132-133.
February - March 2016 17 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Arrival & Transport
CONTACT:
tel: +48 22 572 65 65
www.avis.pl
* NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED,
ECONOMY CLASS CAR, UNLIMITED MILAGE.
ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC,
GET ON THE OPEN ROAD
AND EXPLORE POLAND
WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL
PRICES FROM 98 PLN
*
.
SPECIAL WEEKEND
OFFER FOR YOUR
CAR RENTAL.
In_Your_Paket_04-2014_pion_v1_wybrana.indd 1 2015-04-27 16:10:28
USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS
Kraków’s tram and bus network is incredibly easy to use,
but if you want to make it even easier, check out the
krakow.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade app
for your smartphone. The former is a great tool for advance
planning, but the app is more practical for figuring out
how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town
and away from your computer. Just type in your starting
address (the app does this automatically) and destination,
select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade
magically churns out the best method for you to get there.
Finished at the museum and want to head back to the
hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram
to get on, lead you to the correct stop and even tell you
which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth the
couple euros you’ll spend to download it.
If you don’t have the patience for public transport in
the first place, there’s a nifty app for ordering taxis in
PL: iTaxi.pl. iTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival
times, car models and more, sending the cab of your
choice to your location without you having to talk to
any dispatchers. Best of all, the drivers register to create
a profile, and are heavily vetted so there’s no funny
business. Download it for free from their website.
TAXIS
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable
and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling
ahead will get you a better fare, but if you hail one from
the street make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with
a company name and phone number displayed, as well as
a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now
legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s
end further limiting the likelihood of any funny business.
You can expect a standard fare to be about 7zł plus about
2.30zł per kilometre; at night and on Sundays, however,
fares increase by up to 50%.
For those just arriving, taxis await you on the rooftop
parking lot of the train station, and outside the airport
terminals where ‘Kraków Airport Taxi’ has a monopoly on
service to the Old Town, charging an outrageous 69-89zł for
the fare. We suggest you split it with like-minded travellers
in the same predicament.
Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit of a point of
contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that
necessitates a tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may
not expect one. But double standards being what they are, it’s
anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is
appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.
BARBAKAN TAXIQtel. (+48) 12 196 61,
www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl.
MEGA TAXIQtel. (+48) 12 196 25, www.megataxi.eu.
RADIO TAXI 919Qtel. (+48) 12 191 91,
www.radiotaxi919.pl.
18 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
City Basics
HEALTH & EMERGENCY
In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should
dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department
or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following:
Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.
English, German and Russian speakers have separate
lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48
608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can
be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are
hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay.
The lines are active year round with later hours during the
high-tourist season.
For urgent medical emergencies, a list of Emergency
Rooms can be found in the Directory section of this guide
(page 124). If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging
headache, a swollen foot you can’t put weight on and
vague memories of some kind of calamity, we suggest you
sort it out by calling a private clinic, thus avoiding the
hassle of the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals;
a list of private clinics can also be found in the Directory
(p.125). Further help can be provided by embassies and
consulates, a list of which you’ll find on page 124.
LAW & ORDER
In general Kraków is far safer than most West European
cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they
simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist,
and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if
you’re in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your
trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around.
Perhaps the biggest danger in Kraków is posed by groups
of drunken football hooligans who can be easily avoided
and heard coming a mile away. Finally, foreign men should
be suspicious of young women who take an overactive
interest in them and suggest going to some dodgy
nightclub not in this guide where they stand the chance
of being intimidated into paying for vastly inflated drink
charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately, it happens.
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly
easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka
are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to
make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the
law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of geniuses - from
those in Chewbacca costumes to complete prats who’ve
thought it perfectly acceptable to drop their trousers and
urinate in a city centre fountain - have tested the patience
of local law enforcement, which is now decidedly low so
don’t push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a
trip to Kraków’s premier drunk tank on ul. Rozrywka (which
literally translates as ‘Entertainment Street’), where you can
expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company
of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine
(credit cards not accepted, of course).
Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding
public transport without a ticket (see p. 16) and, silly as
it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which
doesn’t have or respect jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised
to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing
MARKET VALUES
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices. Market values as of January 21,
2016 based on €1 = 4.49zł
McDonald's Big Mac 9.70 zł € 2.16
Snickers 1.69 zł € 0.38
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 23.99 zł € 5.34
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.99 zł € 0.67
0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 zł € 2.00
Loaf of white bread 1.99 zł € 0.44
20 Marlboros 15.50 zł € 3.45
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 4.24 zł € 0.94
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.80 zł € 0.85
FACTS & FIGURES
TERRITORY
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km),
Lithuania (103km), the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad
(210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).
LONGEST RIVER
Kraków is split by the Vistula (Wisła) River. At 1,047km
it is Poland’s longest river, flowing through Warsaw and
into the Bay of Gdańsk.
HIGHEST POINT
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. By comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat
and the city lies 219m above sea level.
POPULATION (2015)
Poland - 38,478,602
Warsaw - 1,735,442
Kraków - 761,873
Łódź - 706,004
Wrocław - 634,487
Poznań - 545,680
Gdańsk - 461,489
Katowice - 301,834
LOCAL TIME
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Kraków it’s 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
February - March 2016 19 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
City Basics
LANGUAGE SMARTS
Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be
terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many
Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command
of the English language. Though you can probably get
by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will
nonetheless smooth your time in Kraków and may even
win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of
the most difficult languages for native English speakers to
learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in
Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.
This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each
letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent
the same sounds as they do in English, below we have
listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic
words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation
‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’
‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’
‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’
‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘
‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’
‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’
‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’
‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’
‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’
‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’
‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’
‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’
‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’
‘r’ is always rolled
Polish Words & Phrases
Yes Tak (Tahk)
No Nie (Nyeh)
Hi/Bye (informal) Cześć (Cheshch)
Hello/Good day (formal) Dzień dobry (Jen doh-bri)
Good evening (formal) Dobry wieczór (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)
Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)
Please Proszę (Prosheh)
Thank you Dziękuję (Jen-koo-yeh)
Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)
My name is... Mam na imię... (Mam nah ee-myeh…)
I’m from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee)
Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku? (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)
I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku. (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)
I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
Two beers, please. Dwa piwa proszę. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)
Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)
Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
You are beautiful. Jesteś piękna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
I love you. Kocham cię. (Ko-hahm chuh.)
Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie
do domu.
(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh
doh-moo.)
Call me! Zadzwoń do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)
Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)
Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
One ticket to… Jeden bilet do… (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)
waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this
little rule is the fact that the local city police (Straż Miejska)
will quite freely give you a 50-100zł fine for crossing a road
at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when
the ‘walk’ light is red. And don’t think you are exempt by
being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and
your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the
fine on the spot.
MONEY
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the
100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, and even the occasional
restaurant or bar, will often refuse to break a large note for
you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for
such moments.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor.’ Kantors will
often provide better value than the banks in your home
country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very
wary of kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to
tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the best
rate. For a list of kantors in Kraków that won’t rip you off,
see p. 124.
Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist
destination, prices in Poland and especially Kraków have
been on the rise, making the country less of a bargain
than it was ten years ago. Having said that, however, prices
for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain
comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket
to the cinema typically costs 15-25zł, while admission to
most museums costs around 5-15zł.
RELIGION
According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles
are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on
baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is
probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one
of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one
thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism,
fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking
to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity.
When Poland was partitioned in the 19
th
century, many
turned to the Church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches. Kraków’s own Pope John Paul II remains a
genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way
more profound than cynics in the West can understand.
Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may
find the Polish enthusiasm for the Church a bit unnerving at
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that
occur from time to time, and the droves that flock to mass.
Tourists should remember while visiting Kraków’s many
churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of
worship to be treated with the requisite respect.
20 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Basic History
The 17
th
century was marked by the pillaging of the
Swedish Invasion (1655) and a bout with the ‘Black
Death’ that claimed 20,000 residents. In the late 18
th

century, Poland passed the world’s second democratic
constitution (after the US) on May 3, 1791, however only
days later the country’s more militarised and expansionist-
minded neighbours Russia, Prussia and Austria invaded
and imposed the First Partition of Poland (1772-73) on
the weakened country; a second partition transpired
twenty years later. Kraków developed a reputation as a
bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in 1794,
Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kościuszko initiated
his famous Insurrection on Kraków’s market square; it
eventually failed and the Prussians soon stepped into
the city to loot the entire royal treasury. Poland was
partitioned a third time (1795) and Kraków became part
of the Austrian province of Galicia.
Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms
of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being
absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation
Kraków’s fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable
exceptions of the section around the Floriańska Gate and
the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where
they once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that
imposed in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and
as a result Kraków became a centre of Polish nationalism,
culture and art during the pre-war ‘fin de siecle’ era. The city
was also modernised during this time with running water,
electricity and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being
installed ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20
th

century.
One of the oldest cities in Poland,
archaeological evidence proves
that there were settlements
in the Kraków area as early as
the Palaeolithic period, with
stone tools found on Wawel Hill
dating back - way, way back - to
50,000BC. Legend attributes the
city’s founding to Krakus, the
mythical ruler who vanquished
the Wawel Dragon. The
mysterious earthwork Mounds
named after Krakus and his daughter Wanda, located in
the Podgórze and Nowa Huta districts respectively, were
probably built in the 7
th
century. However, historians date
the settlement of Kraków’s Old Town slightly later in the
8
th
century, crediting it to a tribe of pagan Slavs known as
the ‘Vistulans.’ By 966, the date of the first written record
of the city’s name, Kraków had already grown into a busy
commercial centre, thanks in part to the amber trade.
In the late 9
th
century the region was ruled by the
Moravians, passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule
before being incorporated into the principality of the
Piast dynasty in the 990s, thus creating the Kingdom
of Poland. The city developed rapidly, acquiring its own
bishopric in 1000, and in 1038 Kraków became the
capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle becoming
the residence of Polish kings. The 13
th
century was marked
by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in 1241
when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was
dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and
1287. Following this last embarrassment, the city was
surrounded by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers
and gates which would be modernised over the next few
centuries.
Kraków particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz
the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and
established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz -
which were closely connected with and would later be
incorporated into Kraków. A huge patron of the arts and
sciences, in 1364 he founded the Kraków Academy, now
known as Jagiellonian University - one of the oldest
institutions of higher learning in Europe. Prosperity
continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian Jagiello
dynasty (1386-1572) as Kraków experienced its ‘golden
age.’ Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived
from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive
new buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks,
and Wawel Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance
architecture. However, after several centuries of roaring
times the city’s fortunes began to turn with the death
of King Zygmunt II in 1572, who left no heir. With the
throne passing to the Swedish House of Vasa, Kraków’s
importance began to decline, resulting in Sigismund III’s
decision to move the Polish capital to Warsaw in 1596;
however Kraków maintained its role as the official site of
royal coronations and burials.
Woodcut of Kraków from the Nuremberg Chronicle, 1493
View of Rynek Główny and the Cloth Hall, 1870
February - March 2016 21 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Basic History
When the First World War broke out, Kraków was
besieged by Russian troops forcing many residents to
flee the city. Kraków became the first Polish city liberated
from Austrian rule on October 31
st
, 1918 when a planned
revolt against the Austrian garrison in Podgórze freed
the city in advance of the war’s end. The Treaty of
Versailles would establish the first sovereign Polish
state in over a century, however twenty years later in
September 1939, Nazi German forces entered Kraków,
setting up command of their ‘General Government’ (the
Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be
purified and incorporated into the Rhineland) in Wawel
Castle. Over 150 professors from Jagiellonian University
were rounded up and shipped to concentration camps
in what is known as ‘Sonderaktion Krakau.’ The Jewish
population was ejected from Kazimierz into a ghetto
in the Podgórze district, with the Liban and Płaszów
work and concentration camps close by. The Jewish
ghetto, whose population fluctuated between 15,000
and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants
shot where they stood, sent to work in Płaszów or sent to
their deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Kraków was liberated
on January 18
th
1945, with the architectural fabric of the
city miraculously coming through the Soviet offensive
almost completely intact.
Following WWII, the dubious process of ‘Sovietisation’
began, and the district of Nowa Huta was built around
the country’s largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an
attempt to weaken Kraków’s intellectual and artistic
heritage through industrialisation. Almost forty-five
years of communism followed, including a year and a
half of martial law, before the Solidarity independent
trade union gathered enough momentum to force free
elections in 1989 in which Lech Wałęsa became the first
post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Kraków’s
Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the
first UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year
Kraków’s archbishop Karol Wojtyła became the first
non-Italian pope in 455 years. Because of its preservation,
today Kraków is arguably Poland’s most important
historical and cultural artefact. In 2014 the city was visited
by 9.9 million tourists.
HISTORICAL TIMELINE
966: First written record of the city
1000: Kraków bishopric established
1038: Kraków becomes the capital of Poland
1257: Kraków granted municipal rights
1320: First royal coronation in Wawel Cathedral: King
Władysław the Short
1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of
the Wisła River
1364: Jagiellonian University founded
1386: Kraków wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and
Lithuanian grand duke Jagiello creates the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw
1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city
1683: King Jan III Sobieski defeats the Ottoman
Empire in the Battle of Vienna, saving Christian
Europe
1734: Final coronation in Wawel Cathedral: King
August III
1791: The May 3
rd
Constitution is passed; the First
Partition of Poland follows
1794: Prussian army captures Kraków after the failed
Kościuszko Uprising
1796: Kraków becomes part of Austrian Galicia after
the Third Partition of Poland
1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe
1939: Nazi occupation begins
1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in Podgórze
1942: Płaszów concentration camp established in
Podgórze
1943: Liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto
1945: Kraków ‘liberated’ by the Soviet Army
1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta
1978: Kraków’s Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz
added to the UNESCO World Heritage List;
Karol Wojtyła inaugurated as Pope John Paul II
1981: Martial law declared in Poland
1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wałęsa wins the Nobel
Peace Prize
1989: Free elections in PL; Communist regime
crumbles
1999: Poland joins NATO
2000: Kraków is the first Polish city to be named
‘European Capital of Culture’
2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Błonia to
participate in a mass by Pope John Paul II
2004: Poland joins the European Union
2005: Pope John Paul II passes away
2010: 96 Polish delegates die in a plane crash
near Smolensk, Russia, including President
Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria, who are
controversially buried in the Wawel Royal Crypts
2013: Kraków is designated UNESCO ‘City of
Literature’
2016: Kraków to host Catholic World Youth Day
Jewish captives, assembled for slave labour, 1939.
22 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
International Cultural Centre, p.27 | Photo: Press materials
Culture & Events
CINEMAS
ARS CINEMA
QC-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 11, tel. (+48) 12 421 41 99, www.
ars.pl. Box office open 30 minutes before the first
showtime to 30 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets
10-20zł.
CINEMA CITY GALERIA KAZIMIERZ
QJ-3, ul. Podgórska 34, tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, www.
cinema-city.pl. Box office open 10:00 - 22:30. Tickets
16-31zł.
IMAX KRAKÓW
QL-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 90 90, www.
cinema-city.pl. Box office open 30 minutes before the
first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime.
Tickets 23-34zł.
KIJÓW.CENTRUM
QH-3, Al. Krasińskiego 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 00 33, www.
kijow.pl. Box office open 10:00 - 20:30. Tickets 13-26zł.
KINO POD BARANAMI
QC-3, Rynek Główny 27, tel. (+48) 12 423 07 68, www.
kinopodbaranami.pl. Box office open 45 minutes
before the first showtime until 15 minutes after the last
showtime. Tickets 11.90-22zł. N
THE TURK
4, 5, 6, 8
MA R C H
WWW.OPERA.KRAKOW.PL
I N I T A L Y
February - March 2016 23 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Culture & Events
BALLET
17.02 WEDNESDAY
MOSCOW CITY BALLET - ROMEO AND JULIET
Shakespeare’s immortal play about a teenage romance so
intense that it ended in multiple deaths was set to music by
Sergei Prokofiev in 1935, featuring a happy ending (quite
different from the original story) which proved controversial
with the Soviet officials. This time it’ll be reinterpreted by
the Moscow City Ballet, meaning marvelous choreography
and impeccable technique.QB-7, ICE Kraków Congress
Centre, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17, www.makroconcert.
com/pl. Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 129-169zł.
Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria
Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00).
CONCERTS
07.02 SUNDAY
LOUDSOFTLOUD VOL. 1
This new cyclical event brings together bands and solo
artists from Krakow, wider Poland, Europe and the US.
As the concept suggest, there are three acts, two louder
groups sandwiching a quieter one… kind of mirroring a
Pixies’ song. The first edition will feature Scottish synthpop
trio Featherwest, British singer-songwriter Karl Culley and
Krakow’s very own Eluktrick.QC-3, Szpitalna 1 Club, ul.
Szpitalna 1. Event starts at 21:00. Tickets 10zł. Available
before the concert.
27.02 SATURDAY
SYMPHONICA
Symphonic remakes of powerful rock and metal hits have
become quite popular, and for good reason. In keeping
with the fad, Symphonica is a musical multimedia show
combining the songs of Metallica, Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Deep
Purple, AC/DC, Guns N’ Roses, Aerosmith, Soundgarden,
and Nightwish with a full symphonic orchestra. Among the
performers will be the stars of The Voice of Poland singing
competition show.QB-7, ICE Kraków Congress Centre, ul.
Marii Konopnickiej 17. Event starts at 16:00. Tickets 119-
179zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria
Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00).
28.02 SUNDAY
PASION DE BUENA VISTA
Cuban artists Pasion De Buena Vista are returning with
their signature brand of peppy Caribbean music that
brings a blast of island warmth to Poz. The atmosphere
is like a breezy Havana club complete with saucy dancers
and Latin rhythms - - it’s almost more like a vacation to
Cuba than just a concert.QB-7, ICE Kraków Congress
Centre, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17, www.makroconcert.
com/pl. Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 129-169zł.
Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria
Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00).
24 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
02.03 WEDNESDAY
BRIAN MAY & KERRY ELLIS
The Queen guitarist and the musical theatre star have been
a professional duo since Brian cast Kerry in the musical We
Will Rock You; they have recently recorded the single “One
Voice”, which lent the name to their current tour.QB-7,
ICE Kraków Congress Centre, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17.
Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 149-349zł. Available at
www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul.
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
04.03 FRIDAY
SCORPIONS
German “Wind of Change” rock band are celebrating
their 50th anniversary! Now one of the best selling music
artists of all time, with 75 million records sold worldwide,
Scorpions are not only still touring, but also recording -
their newest studio album, Return to Forever, was released
in February of 2015.QA/B-7, Tauron Arena Kraków, ul.
Stanisława Lema 7. Concert starts at 20:30. Tickets 190-
320zł. Available at www.tickepro.pl and Empik (Galeria
Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00).
EXHIBITIONS
16.10 FRIDAY - 27.03 SUNDAY
ARTISTS FROM KRAKOW: THE GENERATION
1980–1990
The Museum of Contemporary Art’s newest series of
exhibitions will focus on artists who live and work in
Krakow. For this first year of exhibitions the museum will
present works by artists born between 1980 and 1990.
Paintings will dominate the selection; however, there will
also be sculptures, videos, photographs, drawings, and
installations. The focus of these exhibitions is to showcase
the leading trends in Krakow’s contemporary art scene. In
the world of art, Krakow has been famous as the site of
many ‘firsts’. It was in Krakow that the first Polish Academy
of Fine Arts opened, the first National Museum was funded,
and the first Institute of History of Art in Poland saw the light
of day. The city has always been synonymous with quality
painting and the selection of works presented by MOCAK
for the present exhibition bears out this perception.QK-4,
Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12
263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon, Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
10/5zł, Tue free.
06.02 SATURDAY - 02.10 SUNDAY
WESELA 21
The Ethnographic Museum in Kraków decided to go
beyond their usual studies and research the phenomenon
of 21st-century Polish weddings - from sales proposals to
preparations to the celebrations themselves - to examine
what they say about contemporary times.QD-7, Dom
Esterki, ul. Krakowska 46, tel. (+48) 12 430 60 23, www.
etnomuzeum.eu. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Tickets 10/6zł. Sun free.
SHANTIES FESTIVAL
25.02 THURSDAY - 28.02 SUNDAY
SHANTIES 2016
For 35 years running, Kraków has hosted this salty
sea shanty festival with so much success that it
has spawned an astounding twenty other shanty
festivals across Poland and risen to become not only
the most important celebration of maritime music
in this country, but the largest in all of Europe (quite
an accomplishment for a land-locked city in Central
Europe). Attracting salt-creased sea dogs, selkies, and
sirens from across the continent, the biggest stars of
sea songs will be performing four days of concerts,
plus a raft of workshops, photo exhibitions, and other
accompanying events.
Thursday, February 25th
19:00, Rotunda Cultural Centre: Ballads Concert
featuring Wojciech Dudziński, Paweł Jędrzejko,
Krzysztof Jurkiewicz, Andrzej Korycki, Piotr Zadrożny,
and Lodya Russian Shanty Group
Friday, February 26th
12:00, Rotunda Cultural Centre: Children’s Concert by
Klang.
19:00, Rotunda Cultural Centre: Songs Not Only from
the Forecastle Concert featuring Cztery Refy, Flash
Creep, Formacja, Klang and Jerzy Porębski
23:00, Rotunda Cultural Centre: Shanty 50 Concert
featuring Irish Stew (Netherlands), Formacja, Flash Creep,
Klang, Andrzej Korycki, Mechanicy Shanty and Trzecia Miłość
Saturday, February 27th
12:00, Studio Club: “Zejman’s School Under the Sails”
Children’s Concert by Zejman & Garkumpel
15:00, St. Catherine’s Church, ul. Augustiańska 7:
Concert of Traditional Maritime Songs
17:00, Rotunda Cultural Centre: Songs from the
Forecastle Concert featuring Banana Boat, Majtki
Bosmana, The Nierobbers, Lodya Russian Shanty Group,
Zejman and Garkumpel
22:00, Studio Club: 30 Years of EKT Gdynia featuring
Mechanicy Shanty, Mietek Folk Olsztyn, Orkiestra
Samanta, The Nierobbers, and indeed EKT Gdynia
Sunday, February 28th
12:00, Rotunda Cultural Centre: 30 Years of Mechanicy
Szanty featuring Brasy, Perły i Łotry, Stare Dzwony, Irish
Stew (Netherlands), and - guess it - Mechanicy Shanty
16:00, Rotunda Cultural Centre: Finale Concert
featuring Banana Boat, Zejman and Garkumpel, Lodya
Russian Shanty Group, and the Slogmåkane Norwegian
Shanty Choir
Qwww.shanties.pl. Tickets 18-48zł. Festival pass
260zł. Available at the Rotunda box office (Open
16:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire),
Stary Port tavern (ul. Straszewskiego 27, open 09:00
- 01:00; Thu, Fri 09:00 - 03:00; Sat 12:00 - 03:00; Sun
12:00 - 01:00) and before the concerts.
February - March 2016 25 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Culture & Events
24.02 WEDNESDAY - 03.04 SUNDAY
UKRAINE. WAITING FOR A HERO
The difficult situation in Ukraine - particularly the Maidan
protests - has already started spawning art, as artists
attempt to cope with an atmosphere of despair and
hopelessness or to capture the general mood of the
nation. This exhibition features paintings by Volodymyr
Kostyrko and Yevhen Ravski, Ukrainian artists associated
with Lviv.QC-3, International Cultural Centre, Rynek
Główny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11. Open 10:00 -
18:00. Closed Mon. Admission to the gallery 10/6zł,
family ticket 14zł. Tue, Wed between 10:00 and 11:00
admission 1zł.
FESTIVALS
21.03 MONDAY - 27.03 SUNDAY
MISTERIA PASCHALIA
This is the 13th edition of Kraków’s popular Misteria
Paschalia festival presenting “early” music - as in, early
classical and sacral. The repertoire is carefully crafted to
thematically coincide with Easter, arguably the most
important religious holiday on the Polish calendar. The
seven concerts will be held at four different venues: the
Philharmonic (ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, B-4), St. Catherine’s
Church in Kazimierz (ul. Augustiańska 7, D-7), St. Kinga’s
Chapel in the Wieliczka Salt Mine - which just happens
to be a UNESCO World Heritage site - and the new
International Congress Centre (ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17,
B-7).Qwww.misteriapaschalia.com. Tickets 40-140zł,
festival pass 240-620zł. Available at www.eventim.pl
and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
FOR THE KIDS
05.02 FRIDAY
FROZEN
Just when you thought Frozen fever was over... Let it
goooo, let it goooo! This special screening of the Disney
blockbuster will have a live soundtrack performed by the
Beethoven Academy Orchestra, the Polish Radio Choir, and
soloists including Kasia Łaska (as Elsa) and Magda Wasylik
(as Anna). Expect special light effects as well!QA/B-7,
Tauron Arena Kraków, ul. Stanisława Lema 7. Event
starts at 18:00. Tickets 50-199zł. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia
5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
MISC. EVENTS
14.02 SUNDAY
NAJEDZENI FEST!
Najedzeni Fest! is a food festival series that takes place four
times a year, with a smattering of additional, smaller events
every now and then. The February edition will be dedicated
to love and aphrodisiacs from all around the world.QHotel
Forum, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Admission free.
26 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
OPERA
27.02 SATURDAY
OPERA É LA VITA
“Opera is life” - love, lies, betrayal, and death in the
best operatic dramas of all time. Narrated by Maciej
Miecznikowski as a phantom of the opera, this unique
show will feature arias and duets from Don Giovanni,
The Magic Flute, The Marriage of Figaro, Traviata, Tosca,
Nabucco, Carmen, and others. Performed by Małgorzata
Walewska (the “first lady of Polish opera”) and certain
talented young soloists.QB-7, ICE Kraków Congress
Centre, Marii Konopnickiej 17. Event starts at 19:00.
Tickets 140-280zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 -
22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
04.03 FRIDAY - 06.03 SUNDAY
THE TURK IN ITALY
This opera buffa in two acts by Gioachino Rossini is rarely
seen on Polish stages - indeed, this is the first time it’ll be
performed in Kraków. The work, a true comedy of errors,
is a convoluted story involving a Turkish prince, his former
lover, and a couple experiencing marital problems.QE-2,
Kraków Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62,
www.opera.krakow.pl. Events start at 18:30. Ticket 28-
140zł. Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 2 hours before
the evening performance.
SPECIAL EVENTS
28.03 MONDAY
EMAUS
Emaus, named after the biblical village, is a traditional
Kraków odpust (indulgence) taking place in Salwator every
Easter Monday. Indulgence fairs accompanying church
services are customary in Poland, and usually mean stands
with candy, toys, and gingerbread hearts, shooting galleries,
carousels, lotteries, and all sorts of merry nonsense that
children particularly enjoy. Emaus is basically the mother of
all Polish odpusty, and crowds descend on Salwator each
year to attend. Great chance to buy souvenirs.QG-3, Near
the Church of St. Augustine and St. John, ul. Kościuszki 88.
29.03 TUESDAY
RĘKAWKA
If you’re craving something unique and Slavic on your
travels, this is for you - Rękawka is an old Easter tradition
celebrated in Kraków the Tuesday after the holidays. With
distinctly pagan roots, it originally involved inhabitants of
the city climbing the Krakus Mound to toss down food and
coins as offerings to ancestors; nowadays you can expect
historical reenactments, traditional fire rites, and concerts.
QK-5, Krakus Mound. Admission free. Event starts at
11:30.
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February - March 2016 27 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Culture & Events
HOLIDAY MARKETS
18.03 FRIDAY - 28.03 MONDAY
EASTER MARKET
Wooden stalls are back up on the Main Square, offering
everything you’d expect from a regional fair - smoked
cheese from Podhale, hearty sausage and cabbage served
on paper plates, overpriced tablecloths, painstakingly
decorated Easter eggs, hand-painted pottery, decorations
and trinkets galore, and - of course - plenty of Galician
mulled wine. It’s what the tourists are here for!QC-3,
Rynek Główny, www.kiermasze.com.pl. Open 10:00 -
20:00. Admission free.
SPORT
12.03 SATURDAY
DIVERSE NIGHT OF THE JUMPS
Freestyle motocross world championships will be coming
to the Kraków Arena! The first time this dangerous
tournament took place in Poland was in 2006 at the
Katowice Spodek, but venues have since been switched to
allow the competitors more room. The performances and
competitions will be accompanied by a pit party, where
audience and athletes will get to interact with each other.
QA/B-7, Tauron Kraków Arena, ul. Stanisława Lema 7.
Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 99-199zł. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, ul. Pawia 5,
D-1; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
THEATRE
20.02 SATURDAY
THE ADDAMS FAMILY MUSICAL
Originally created as a series of single-panel cartoons, the
Addams family have since gotten their own television
series, films, video games, and indeed a musical by Andrew
Lippa, originally shown in Chicago in 2009.QB-7, ICE
Kraków Congress Centre, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17.
Event starts at 20:00. Tickets 130-160zł. Available at
www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul.
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
08.03 TUESDAY
FIDDLER ON THE ROOF
Beloved Jewish musical Fiddler on the Roof opened
on Broadway in 1964 and surpassed three thousand
performances, eventually spawning a movie adaptation
and four Broadway revivals. This rendition will be performed
by the Chorzów Entertainment Theatre.QB-7, ICE Kraków
Congress Centre, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17. Event starts
at 18:00. Tickets 90-140zł. Available at www.eventim.pl
and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00). Ukraine
Waiting for a Hero
Kostyrko, Rawski
Exhibition
24.02−
03.04.2016
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INT. CULTURAL CENTRE
03.03 THURSDAY - 08.05 SUNDAY
TEMPUS FUGIT. TIME AND TRANSIENCE
See how artists across the ages tackled transience
in their works - by contrasting the old and the
young, depicting ruins of once-flourishing cities, or
utilising concrete poetry. The exhibition will feature
works by Giovanni Benedetto Castiglione, Giovanni
Battista Piranesi, Václav Hollar, Jacob de Gheyn III,
Henricus Hondius, and various Polish conceptualists
including Stanisław Dróżdż and Roman Opałka.QC-3,
International Cultural Centre, Rynek Główny 25, tel.
(+48) 12 424 28 11. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission to the gallery 10/6zł, family ticket 14zł.
Tue, Wed between 10:00 and 11:00 admission 1zł.
Photo by P. Mazur.
What’s going on?

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28 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Modern Polish sous vide cuisine ‘under the nose’ of Wawel Castle in Pod Nosem (p.52).
Restaurants
With the development of the market in Krakow the number
of places to eat is now extremely wide, and while the city’s
culinary rep is improving all the time, its restaurants are still
waiting for starry-eyed acceptance from a certain French
tyre company. That said, there are more good restaurants
to visit in this town than you could possibly fit in one trip,
so fear not, you won’t have to eat tyres.
While our print guide carries a wide selection of Kraków’s
most noteworthy restaurants, there are many, many more
listed on our website (krakow.inyourpocket.com), where
we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places
you’ve visited. All IYP reviews are updated regularly, com-
pletely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in
brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses
on the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by
the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can
expect the chef to be working. Smacznego!
SPLURGE
Wierzynek (p.54) is Kraków’s oldest and most upscale
restaurant, right on the Rynek. Close behind is Pod
Aniołami (p.51), while the sophisticated wine lists and
seasonal cuisine of Copernicus (p.32) and Trzy Rybki
(p.36) are also both bankable for your best meal while in
town. Szara (p.36) - with locales on both the market square
and in Kazimierz - also never disappoints.
CHEAP
A Polish milk bar (p.50) is as cheap as you’ll eat anywhere
in your life, but for a pinch of atmosphere try Smakołyki
(p.54). If you’re not a fan of Polish food, Alebriche (p.44) -
Kraków’s Mexican eatery - is excellent and super affordable.
LADS
Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like a king for
pauper prices in Bierhalle (p.32), or try Restauracja
Sukiennice (p.53) where the food spills off the edges
of the plate, and you can watch whoever’s walking the
runway of Kraków’s Rynek while clinking glasses. To
literally recieve a bib with your food, order the outstanding
ribs at Rzeźnia (p.30).
FAMILIES
Slowly but surely, more and more places in Kraków now
have things like changing tables, high chairs, and play
corners - look for the Child-Friendly symbol T at the
end of each listing. Nothing in town beats Pod Wawelem
(p.52), however, which has a huge rumpus room for kids
and food that they’ll eat.
COUPLES
Kraków is a marvellous backdrop for romance and you
shouldn’t have to search far for ‘the perfect place.’ Make
a reservation in ZaKładka (p.31), Destino (p.44), Pod
Nosem (p.52) or Bianca (p.38) and let the atmosphere do
the rest.
SPECIAL DIET
For vegans, vegetarians and health-conscious foodies,
the street of choice in the Old Town is ul. Krupnicza (A-
2), where you’ll find Sissi Organic Bistro (p.34), Karma
(p.56) and Pod Norenami (p.55); in Kazimierz head to Plac
Wolnica (D-7), home to Vegan Bistro Nova Krova (p.55).
For traditional Polish food that’s assuredly gluten-free, visit
Pod Baranem (p.52).
February - March 2016 29 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Restaurants
AMERICAN
BOBBY BURGER
Poland has burgers on the brain, and having been to
several Bobby franchises around the country (including
a few others in Kraków), we have to rate this one just off
the market square as the best we’ve been in. The options
for compiling your own burger exactly as you want are
extensive, including veggie patties and gluten-free buns,
and seeing a menu with chilli cheese fries, mac ‘n’ cheese
and milkshakes on it always brings a smile to our face.
In the context of the current gourmet burger craze, and
considering the location, prices here are actually below
market, and best of all it’s open late.QC-3, ul. Szczepańska
3, tel. (+48) 730 97 94 85. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 04:00. (9-20zł). 6 U G S W
GRANDE GRILL
Contrasting with the inflexible traditionalism of Wierzynek,
this fresher effort from the same team behind Kraków’s
most famous restaurant balances modern styling and
cuisine with its medieval setting. The year-round patio
garden packed with plants hanging from timber beams
has long been regarded as one of the best in town, and
the stylish indoor dining area and occassional rock/blues
concerts only enhance it. The menu is a simple selection
of steaks, salads and burgers, all expertly made-to-order
with the kind of service you would expect from the city’s
most established restaurateurs.QC-3, Rynek Główny 16,
tel. (+48) 12 424 96 21, www.grandegrill.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:00. (29-75zł). T U E G W
HARD ROCK CAFE
The international Hard Rock Cafe chain has set up shop
on some of the city’s most hallowed ground next to
St. Mary’s Basilica. Inside you’ll find an absurdly large
number of staff members milling around amongst rock
memorabilia including a pair of Elton John’s spectacles
to an unplayable home-made guitar from Polish legends
T. Love. Featuring a modern interior stacked over three
levels, stop by to enjoy an expertly mixed drink and a juicy
burger while gazing at a scarf John Lennon once wore.
QC-3, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 12:00 - 23:30.
(20-90zł). T 6 U G W
SYMBOL KEY
G No smoking T Child-friendly
6 Animal friendly N Credit cards not accepted
S Take away U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery X Smoking room available
I Fireplace W Wi-fi connection
E Live music
DECODING THE MENU
Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing
while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re
likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!
(Enjoy your meal!)
śniadania breakfast
zupa soup
przystawki appetisers
dania główne main dishes
dodatki side dishes
ziemniaki potatoes
kapusta cabbage
ser cheese
chleb bread
warzywa vegetables
owoce fruit
mięso meat
kurczak chicken
wieprzowina pork
wołowina beef
ryba fish
deser dessert
ciasto cake
lody ice cream
napoje drinks
kawa coffee
piwo beer
TIPPING TRIBULATIONS
Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal
to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll
be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word
‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication
that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural
slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the
waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the
fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money
back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of
your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are
happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise
we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when
handing back the bill and the payment.
Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid
in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more
than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner
may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity).
As such, we encourage you to reward good service
when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually
unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because
waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you
won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have
some change or small bills handy in order to leave your
server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change.
30 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
including great views of the Rynek. In the evenings, Odeon
does takes on an appropriate air of Parisian decadence and
is a great place for a cocktail, catching a live concert on their
intimate first floor stage, or getting your ya-yas out during
their weekend dance parties.QC-3, Rynek Główny 28, tel.
(+48) 605 05 72 34, www.klubodeon.pl. Open 10:00 -
20:00. (12-25zł). 6 E X W
LA FONTAINE
The courtyard terrace is the pick of places to eat at La
Fontaine, though the interior of rough hewn stone walls
and brick arches has a perfectly pleasing elegance as
well when there’s a gale outside. Here delicious French
delicacies are served by a well-trained staff who actually
appear to enjoy what they do. So does the chef, clearly,
as he turns out such wonderful dishes as tournedos with
potato casserole and a bearnaise, wine, or roquefort sauce.
Home to some of the city’s most outstanding cuisine
and an excellent wine cellar, it’s easy to understand why
this veteran restaurant has received so many awards and
remains a mainstay of the local restaurant scene after so
many years.QC-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65
64, www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
(25-69zł). X W
250+ restaurant reviews online:
krakow.inyourpocket.com
RZEŹNIA - RIBS ON FIRE
This small ‘meatery’ offers a concise menu of carnivore
cravings - tartar, blood pudding, sausage and ribs, with
sides of fries and slaw, and a good selection of bottled beers.
Though that sounds like something you’d find written on
the side of a food truck, this place has more class than that
with a red-flecked interior that looks could pass for a Spanish
tapas bar in a pinch, and a huge flatscreen tele so the lads
can watch league action. Order the ribs (no, really - order
the ribs) and you get the entire rack, not a sawn-off section,
and we guarantee you’ll be sucking the bones clean. The
coleslaw is also the best we’ve had in this cabbage crazy
country. Tuck in your bib (they’ll provide you with one) and
give this a try.QD-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 14, tel. (+48) 12 430
62 96, www.restauracjarzeznia.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (19-59zł). U G W
FRENCH
NEW
KLUB ODEON
Ascending the grand staircase of this somewhat obscure,
but surprisingly elegant market square tenement you
might expect to crash a high-society soiree upon reaching
the top, but once inside you’ll find a curious, casual French
bistro with two bars and a billiards table. Big breakfasts,
classic toasted sandwiches like madame croque, crepes,
galettes (gluten-free crepes) and salads are served all
day, and are a great value considering the surroundings,
February - March 2016 31 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Restaurants
ZAKŁADKA - FOOD & WINE
Located in a restored tenement just over the Bernatka
footbridge in Podgórze, this thoroughly classy French-style
bistro strikes the perfect balance of modern elegance,
exciting upscale cuisine and below market prices to make
it outrageously popular. The new menu changes seasonally
and tackles French delicacies and regional Polish dishes
with equal respect and aplomb, including fresh mussels,
smoked trout, snail casserole, veal tongue, salmon tartare
and grilled octopus in the rotation. Prices are absolutely
pedestrian when one considers the skill of each meal’s
preparation and presentation. A perfect date destination,
from the moment you step inside Zakładka seemingly
everything - from the sharp black and white interior to
the excellent food and wine (the owner even has his own
vineyard) - becomes an aphrodisiac; make a reservation
now.QJ-4, ul. Józefińska 2, tel. (+48) 12 442 74 42,
www.zakladkabistro.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00; Sun 12:00 - 21:00; closed Mon. (23-48zł).
T G W
ZAZIE BISTRO
While no stranger to fine French dining, this pleasant
Kazimierz eatery is the closest Kraków has come to a casual
Parisian bistro, complete with classic set meals (including
an appetiser, main and dessert) for an affordable 29zł,
fantastic creme brulee, quiche that you can order by size
(from 1/8th to the whole pie) and even escargot. Set over
two levels, the ground floor tries its luck at looking like
a Parisian sidewalk terrace with a wall-length mural of
France’s famous phallus landmark, interior streetlights and
even a candy-striped roll-out canopy over one table; head
to the cellar for a more romantic atmosphere of candlelight
and wine racks. Overall a great way to enjoy French cuisine
without indulging any stereotypes about snobbery, and an
excellent value for your money.QE-6, ul. Józefa 34, tel.
(+48) 500 41 08 29, www.zaziebistro.pl. Open 12:00 -
23:00, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (29-43zł).
T 6 G S W
INDIAN
INDUS TANDOOR
Full of reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns, Indus’s slim
interior is bursting with colour, but it’s the spacious fabric-
draped summer garden that we prefer when the weather’s
warm. The near constant people filing in and out speaks to
the high quality of the food, and while spice levels rarely
threaten to reach volcanic, Indus is a vast improvement on
the ethnic experience of yesteryear. Try the business lunch
specials (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00) for a fantastic value; orders
placed Mon-Thu after 16:00 receive a free appetiser.QC-2,
ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 423 22 82, www.
indus.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-
45zł). V G S W
We invite you to enjoy
our original Indian dishes.
Catering service available.
Ul. Sławkowska 13-15, phone: 012
4232282, www.indus.pl, indus@indus.pl
Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00
THE BEST INDIAN
CUISINE IN TOWN
La Fontaine
Full Center – Old Town
The best of the french cusine
Tel: +48 12 431 09 30 /48 12 422 65 64
www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl
lafontaine@lafontaine.com.pl
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32 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
INTERNATIONAL
APERITIF
This city-centre oasis features a warm, modern interior with
window seating on Mały Rynek and delightful garden dining
in the back during the summer. While the atmosphere and
interior may invoke the sunny Mediterranean, the menu
features some modern interpretations of Polish classics
alongside French and Italian dishes, and the Polish tasting
menu offers a somewhat different (and more delicious)
take on traditional Polish food. A bottle of wine is the
perfect companion here, though any date will be well-
pleased by your choice.QC-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12
432 33 33, www.aperitif.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (28-
65zł). T 6 U X S W
BIERHALLE
This familiar tourist-friendly franchise lives up to its name,
bringing its Oktoberfest atmosphere to Kraków’s Mały
Rynek. At Bierhalle they brew their own, offering 3 different
ales most commonly ordered by the litre, but you can also
go gorilla with a 5l barrel. The beer-friendly franchise menu
of German bratwurst, breaded cutlets and dumplings
has been recently expanded and improved by star chef
Kurt Scheller (and his stellar moustache), all while staying
affordable, and open late as well. A helpful multi-lingual
menu, nice service, and TVs streaming sports in every room
make it a lads magnet, but we found Kraków’s locale to be
less rowdy and more refined than expected. This is one of
those happy cases where success seems to have actually
improved the brand.QC-3, Mały Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 517
38 26 42, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00
- 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (10-60zł).
T U G S W
COPERNICUS
Inside one of Kraków’s most exclusive hotels you’ll find
one of its most exclusive restaurants, with high-class
service inside an elegant gothic interior that features
original frescoes. Copernicus is enthusiastically awarded
each year, and its gourmet cuisine has been enjoyed by
Nobel Prize winners (Miłosz, Szymborska) and political
dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl) alike. The menu
changes every month and is kept simple by Chef Marcin
Filipkiewicz who offers a tasting menu of amazing seasonal
flavours; choose between 5 (180zł), 7 (240zł) or 12 courses
(350zł). At Copernicus you get what you pay for, making
it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.QC-5,
ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34
21, www.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. T G S W
ENOTEKA PERGAMIN
The latest effort from Pergamin combines everything
needed for any occasion into one location. On the ground
floor it’s an affordable family bistro where the chefs are at
work behind a long deli counter of local delicacies used
to create delicious cheese and meat plates, brick-fired
pizzas, sandwiches and fresh seafood dishes. After 17:00,
the upscale cellar features its own card comprised of five
SHOULD I DRINK
THE WATER?
Although over the past few years the city has been on
an official campaign to convince people that Kraków’s
water passes all the tests and is safe to drink, locals
will still look at you like you’re taking your life into
your own hands if you drink from the tap. Despite the
official endorsement, and our own personal belief that
the tap water is perfectly ‘potable,’ hypochondriacs
and others with a quivering constitution may want
to avoid drinking it; indeed, the antique plumbing in
some buildings can still affect the water quality, so if
you have any doubts we suggest you play it safe and
just drink bottled water, which is widely available
and inexpensive. Inexpensive unless you’re in a
restaurant, that is. Tourists from countries where the
right to drink water is a guaranteed freedom may be
surprised to find that water is not complimentary in
Polish restaurants; in fact it’s downright expensive and
comes in a tiny glass that will barely wet your thirst.
By comparison, beer is a much better value as you get
more than twice as much for only a couple złoty more;
such is Poland’s ‘drinking problem.’ If you’re still set on
drinking water with your meal, be prepared to declare
a preference between gazowana (carbonated water)
and niegazowana (still water).
February - March 2016 33 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Restaurants
separate tasting menus (179-199zł), and the space includes
a smoking room full of leather armchairs, and a small, cosy
wine and cocktail bar. With a huge wine cellar, not only
can the sommelier recommend the perfect bottle for your
meal, but the bartender is one of the best mixed-drink men
in town. Also functioning as a delicatessen and wine shop,
Enoteka Pergamin is basically whatever you want it to be,
but also one of the few places we know where you can
really splash out on a nice bottle of wine and still enjoy an
affordable meal.QC-4, ul. Grodzka 39, tel. (+48) 797 70
55 15, www.enotekapergamin.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
(17-199zł). X S W
LA BICICLETTA
Endeavouring to be a meeting place for dining and
cycling culture, La Bicicletta favours elegance over
urbanism, aiming for the spandex set, rather than the
hipsters with rolled-up trouser legs who are in no short
supply locally. With framed jerseys on the walls and the
peloton on the tube, this is probably one of the few places
in Kazimierz that you can walk into in your full skin-tight
cycling kit and not get a few giggles, though you’ll note
it’s more attuned to tourists with a pension upstairs and
an info desk out front. Regardless, the chef outdoes
himself serving up fine Polish and European food at fair
prices. Pretty much everything on the menu is delicious,
the desserts are to-die-for, and there’s a lush garden out
back.QD-6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 14 14,
www.labicicletta.com.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00. (12-38zł).
T G S W
PINO
Though it’s a bit ironic (if not outright silly) to take a historic
Old Town townhouse and make it look like a warehouse
with a modern post-industrial interior, such are the today’s
trends, and PINO actually pulls it off beautifully. Full of
i-beams, wrought iron and exposed brick - and featuring
a mezzanine level, open kitchen, pizza oven and seasonal
patio dining - the space is exceedingly well-designed and
wonderful for casual meetings, family dinners, or after-
work cocktails and beers. The range of the menu covers
pizza (recommended), pasta, burgers, seafood, ribs and
steaks, you name it - and everything is made on-site,
from the burger buns to the ice cream. Affordable and
delicious, the service is great, and this is definitely one
of our new favourite places in the Old Town. Try it.QB-3,
ul. Szczepańska 4, tel. (+48) 609 01 50 16, www.
restauracjapino.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
24:00. (28-69zł). G W
PLAC NOWY 1
Located in a new building buttressing Plac Nowy, we’ll
admit we initially disapproved of this project, but we
never imagined it would be pulled off with this much
elan. Adapted to its surroundings while subtly outclassing
them, Plac Nowy 1 features a lovely modern interior full of
natural light and plant life. With plenty of space, patrons
have their choice between the high-ceilinged main dining
room, sidewalk tables, covered patio, or mezzanine, and
34 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
there’s even bowling in the basement. The menu wanders
across cuisines to follow recent food trends (fancy burgers,
tempura), but includes uniquely modern takes on Polish
classics as well, and they put a big emphasis on craft beer,
offering regional beer tasting sets. Earning wide approval,
this is arguably now the nicest place to eat on Plac Nowy.
QD-6, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 00, www.
placnowy1.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 -
02:00. (26-65zł). T U G S W
RESTO ILLUMINATI
Though the name comes off as a tad trendy and eager
to be elite, Illuminati’s connotations of smart, secretive
and ancient recipes are an apt portrayal of this attractive
restaurant hedging modern Warsaw style into a medieval
Kraków setting. Most enjoyable and undervalued is the
ability to dine in ancient vaulted brick surroundings
without being buried underground in a windowless crypt.
Check the wall-length blackboard for choice selections
from their tantalising menu of modern, flavour-melding
main courses. Reassuringly there’s no need for blood rites
to be a regular.QC-3, ul. Gołębia 2, tel. (+48) 12 430 73
73, www.restoilluminati.pl. Open 07:30 - 22:00. (35-
79zł). T 6 G S W
SCANDALE ROYAL
Scandale Royal successfully skirts the line between lounge,
cafe and bistro by being one of the most stylish places
to be all day and night. In more shades of violet than we
knew possible, it nonetheless stays well-lit and inviting
thanks to wall-length windows and a massive chandelier
bisecting the two floors like a fragile fire-pole. On the
card you’ll find salads, pastas, and meat dishes to taste,
with proper breakfast in the mornings and an after 22:00
menu (featuring tapas) late night, when everything inside
from the cushions to the clientele looks edible.QB-2, Pl.
Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale.
pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00; Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00. (24-79zł).
T U X S W
SISSI ORGANIC BISTRO
This wonderful restaurant emphasises healthy eating
and organic ingredients (including their own jams,
locally-sourced meat, and their own fresh-baked
bread) to create exquisite fusion dishes that change
regularly. Complemented by choice bottled beers and
an excellent wine selection, there’s really nothing we
can’t recommend from the stellar soups to the unique
sandwiches, and their homemade ice cream is out-
of-this-world. The pleasing interior of blonde woods
includes a lovely seasonal garden, the staff exude
confident professionalism, and the prices are curiously
low for such an elegant experience. Each time we’ve
visited we’ve witnessed other patrons literally gushing
at their tables over what a pleasant surprise this place
is.QB-2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 602 23 45 55, www.
sissibistro.pl. Open 08:30 - 20:30; Fri, Sat 08:30 - 21:30.
From March open 08:30 - 23:00; Fri, Sat 08:30 - 24:00.
(10-79zł). 6 G S W
BREAKFAST
BAGELMAMA
Kazimierz’s favourite bagel spot, with a range of
different toppings and cream cheeses, drip coffee,
wraps, homemade soups and more - served all day,
naturally.QE-6, ul. Dajwór 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16 46,
www.bagelmama.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. (4-20zł).
T 6 G S W
CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO
Early risers won’t find any better place in the Old Town
than Charlotte, which offers great coffee, fresh bread,
pastries, a variety of breakfast sets (served all day) and
a wonderful atmosphere all day. High ceilinged and full
of natural light from wall-length windows overlooking
Plac Szczepański this is a great place to read the paper,
open the laptop or slowly unwind the day ahead of
you.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80,
www.bistrocharlotte.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri
07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
(9-18zł). 6 G S W
MILKBAR TOMASZA
With half the menu devoted to early morning eats,
Milk Bar is an astute place to start the day. Select from
a range of scrambled, fried, and even poached(!) egg
platters, crepes and paninis, and their excellent Irish
breakfast, served all day.QD-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 24, tel.
(+48) 12 422 17 06. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 -
20:00. Closed Mon. (10-18zł). T U G S W
MOMENT
It’s Sunday brunch every day in Moment where
breakfast is served until 16:00. Their large and diverse
breakfast options include Polish, English and French
sets, and are some of the best bargains in town at
14-19zł, including tea or coffee.QE-6, ul. Estery 22,
tel. (+48) 668 03 40 00, www.momentcafe.pl. Open
09:00 - 01:00. (14-19zł). T U G S W
SCANDALE ROYAL
Mornings in Scandale Royal feature a full breakfast
buffet, or order a la carte and choose from two pages of
exciting breakfast options, including eggs, omelettes,
pancakes, and a solid English breakfast. If you consider
breakfast a proper meal, this is one of the best places in
town to go.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422
13 33, www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00; Fri, Sat
07:30 - 02:00. Breakfast served until 13:00. (11-27zł).
U S W
MAŁY RYNEK 7
KRAKÓW
+48 517 382 642
WWW.BIERHALLE.PL
VISIT US AT BIERHALLE IN KRAKÓW
TRADITIONAL BEER
DELICIOUS DOWN TO THE LAST DROP
POLISH CUISINE
SO TASTY THAT YOU WON'T WANT TO LEAVE THE TABLE
AN UNFORGETTABLE AND MAGICAL ATMOSPHERE
- GUARANTEED !!!
36 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
TRUFLA
This cosy place on Plac Szczepański sets itself apart by
offering great food at the right price. A simple, predominantly
white decor with wooden furniture allows you to relax while
interpreting the stylistically pleasing yet difficult to decipher
handwritten cursive menu of classic Italian dishes. The open
kitchen lets you in on the ‘creative’ cooking process and the
charming seasonal garden - with its small Japanese-style
garden - is one of the most gorgeous you’ll find around.
With limited tables inside and out, plus Trufla’s loyal band
of followers, reservations might be wise.QC-2, ul. Św.
Tomasza 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 41. Open 09:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (25-50zł). 6 G S W
TRZY RYBKI
Hotel Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the
interiors of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring,
balancing the modern with finely preserved details of this
ancient building. Serving fine Modern European cuisine
with a Polish twist, the menu changes like the seasons - or
with them, rather, meaning a steady effort from the kitchen
to use the freshest ingredients. Favoured by high-flyers and
local business honchos who have been regulars for years,
this is a Kraków gem.QC-2, ul. Szczepańska 5 (Hotel
Stary), tel. (+48) 12 384 08 06, www.likusrestauracje.pl.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (79-95zł). 6 U G S W
VANILLA SKY
The flagship restaurant of Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla Sky
is one of the city’s only restaurants to use only certified
organic ingredients, and you’ll be happily commiting to the
eco-craze once you see the menu of tantalising dishes like
‘duck breast in cherry-rosemary sauce with gold potatoes
and fried apples.’ Set in the centre of a spacious dining room
on the hotel’s third floor, the well-dressed tables circle
a gorgeous grand piano on which evening concerts are
performed Wed-Sat, as well as Sunday afternoons.QH-4,
ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski & Spa), tel. (+48) 12
297 40 05, www.vanilla-sky.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (36-
64zł). T U E G S W
ISRAELI
HAMSA
In a district whose dining establishments still treat
Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past, here’s a
restaurant free of nostalgic pre-war décor and wooden roof
fiddlers, where ‘Jewish cuisine’ doesn’t mean traditional
East European fare. Making a bold impression simply by
being bright, modern and free of clutter, Hamsa offers a
range of authentic Middle Eastern specialties in a casual
environment. The mezze sets are perfect for sharing, and
not only give you a chance to sample delicious starters like
the humus, babaganoush, labnah and muhammarah (our
recommended choice), but are also beautifully presented
in hand-painted dish ware. Fairly-priced and generally a
breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight.QE-6, ul. Szeroka
2, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, www.hamsa.pl. Open 10:00 -
23:00. (30-60zł). T 6 G S W
STUDIO QULINARNE
Housed inside an old bus hangar on the site of the City
Engineering Museum, Studio Qulinarne has taken this
airy industrial interior of bricks and timbers and turned
it into one of Kraków’s most elegant dining destinations.
Potted plants and illuminated white drapes cleverly hang
between fine table settings with refreshingly mismatched
18th century chairs as a pianist plays in the main dining
area, and the chefs oversee sizzling pans in the open
kitchen. The menu ranges from affordable pasta dishes to
pricey exotic game, and we can recommend not only the
venison, but the entire experience.QE-7, ul. Gazowa 4,
tel. (+48) 12 430 69 14, www.studioqulinarne.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (40-90zł). T 6 U 
E G S W
SZARA
Enviably located right on the market square, Szara’s
reputation as one of the best restaurants in town hasn’t
wavered over the years and if you’re looking for a place
to impress guests or treat yourself to a special ‘last night
in town meal,’ this is a sure bet. Gorgeous, painted ceiling
arches, crisp linen and outstanding service create an
atmosphere of complete elegance, but Szara manages to
avoid the stuffiness suffered by other venues of this ilk.
Case in point: their modern and casual bar just next door
is a smart place to start the day (breakfast served 08:00-
12:00), or enjoy a coctail in the evening.QC-3, Rynek
Główny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69, www.szara.pl. Open
08:00 - 23:00. (34-85zł). U G B S W
SZARA KAZIMIERZ
Opening after its sister establishment on the Rynek, the
second Szara achieved local legend status just as quickly.
What makes it so special is not the convenient location
on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly staff, but the food:
nowhere in the city can you eat so well for so little. This
is top cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up on the
blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple,
affordable and very cheerful, all of Kraków should be like
this.QE-6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429 12 19, www.
szarakazimierz.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (24-73zł). I G 
S W
TRADYCYJA
Though somewhat haunted by the spectres of past
incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner goes largely
unused), there’s no need to mess with this historic market
square locale, which oddly blends old Polish aristocracy
with Roman antiquity, including a beautifully painted
timber ceiling and an outrageously gaudy chandelier
(which we love for just that reason). Like the interior, the
simple menu of Polish and Italian dishes seems to have
collected the highlights of previous kitchens, but the results
cover for the sometimes uneven service, and the prices are
well within reason. Keep an ear out for semi-frequent live
folk music and dance performances.QC-3, Rynek Główny
15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16, www.tradycyja.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. (20-59zł). T U E G W
www.likusrestauracje.pl
MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13
LEVEL -1
38 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
FOOD TRUCKS
Food trucks are the latest culinary trend to roll into
PL, and Cracovians have taken to the idea of meals on
wheels with zeal. Unfortunately, they’ve basically been
kept out of the Old Town, so you’ll have to trek down to
Kazimierz in order to enjoy eating off of your lap. We list
the city’s food truck parks below.
DAJWÓR 21 FOOD TRUCK PARK
Though lacking some of the size and scenesters of
Skwer Judah, this new gravel lot for food trucks, beach
chairs and palette tables has a similar vibe, and its
success is secure thanks to a tourist-friendly location
across from Galicia Jewish Museum. Most of the food
trucks here do lunch elsewhere, so note the late open
times. On our last visit we found Calavera Mexican Grill
(recommended), Zacny Burger and Flamingo’s (wraps
and salads), and there’s also the Armon Bar in the back
of the lot, which basically uses the space as its beer
garden.QE-6, ul. Dajwór 21. Open 16:00 - 20:00.
FOOD TRUCK SQUARE
Food trucks are the latest Polish food fad, and Skwer
Judah in Kazimierz - so named after the massive street
mural that adorns it - provides the parking for this
culinary trend. Here you’ll find several meals on wheels
to choose from, and in warm weather beach chairs,
benches and palettes are placed all over this concrete
pitch, making it one of the coolest places in town to
catch some quick grub. Tenants change often, but
during our most recent visit the options included Big
Red Busterant (a vintage UK double-decker bus with
upstairs seating, serving soup, sausage, and fish and
chips), Frytki Belgijskie (Belgian-style fries), Boogie Truck
(burgers, paninis), Pan Kumpir (loaded jacket potatoes),
Andrus Food Truck (serving maczanka - the Cracovian
pulled pork sandwich), Kocham Naleśniki (crepes), Yatai
(sushi) and Chimney Cake Bakery. Opening hours and
availability vary with each, of course, but most are open
roughly 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00 (note that
there are fewer venues open on Monday).QE-6, Skwer
Judah, ul. Św Wawrzyńca 16.
ITALIAN
AMARONE
Upmarket Italian food served in an elegant setting to
a discerning audience - all of whom appear to know
exactly what they are ordering and how it should be
prepared. The pressure is on, but the Amarone team
comes through every time and the clients keep coming
back. Enjoy fresh bread (baked daily), homemade pasta
and authentic ingredients straight from Italy in an
exclusive atmosphere made Mediterranean via plenty of
natural light and potted plants. Weekdays 12:00 - 16:00
offer a fantastic five-course tasting menu for only 50zł.
QC-2, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. (+48) 12
424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (49-
65zł). T 6 U E G W
BIANCA
This small Italian bistro next to St. Mary’s Basilica comes
preceded by a big reputation and strong pedigree
courtesy of the local dining dynasty behind La Campana
and Marmolada. No surprise then that our scallops were
delicious, and though the side dishes (order one) are almost
as large as the pasta dishes, the value is still incredible. Close
scrutiny of the relaxed, prevalently white (go figure) interior
reveals a high level of perfectionism in each element (don’t
fail to notice the hand-painted ceiling), but wisely leaves
big impressions to the kitchen situated in full view at the
end of the intimate room, where the professionalism of the
chefs is on full display.QC-3, Pl. Mariacki 2, tel. (+48) 782
29 77 15, www.biancaristorante.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
(25-60zł). G W
BOSCAIOLA
With pedigree and another winning design job from the
team behind the popular Mamma Mia, this surprisingly
upscale Italian eatery on bustling Szewska Street boasts
a stylish interior full of lovely timber and white ceramic
fittings, with large windows that bring a bit of sunshine and
street theatre to the front tables; downstairs is a beautiful
cellar full of wine bottles and wire-brushed brick and
stone. The menu is a by-now familiar array of pizzas and
pastas, but there’s no skimping on the quality or quantity of
ingredients - only on the total of the bill at the end. Classy
budget dining, right in the centre.QB-3, ul. Szewska 10,
tel. (+48) 12 426 41 27, www.boscaiola.eu. Open 11:00 -
23:00. (15-63zł). T U G S W
INVITO PIZZA & PASTA
The concept here is as simple as the food: a stylish interior
with a comfortable atmosphere in which to enjoy good
company and affordable food (two-course meals for as
little as 15.90zł, pizza of the day 12.90zł). The decor nicely
balances touchstones of a casual, rustic trattoria with
the elegance of numerous wine racks and classic black
and white Belle Epoque photos, thereby outshining the
menu which is little more than a concise list of budget
pizzas and do-it-at-home pasta dishes that come out of
the kitchen quickly. With cute students on the orders,
February - March 2016 39 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Restaurants
Pizza, pasta
e magia
Recommendation Recommendation
ul. Szewska 10, Kraków
tel. +48 12 426 41 27
www.boscaiola.eu
Classy budget dining,
right in the centre.
Krakow In Your Pocket
Kraków
ul. Kanonicza 7
tel. +48 12 430 22 32
www.lacampana.pl
“Amazing place...
excellent pastas, great
service, just delicious!!!”
krakow.inyourpocket.com
40 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
QUICK EATS
Here we list some local alternatives to the fast food
franchises you might be familiar with from back home
(if it’s the ‘Golden Arches’ you’re looking for you’re on
your own). Note that Kazimierz is a Mecca for fast street
food, with zapiekanki dispensed daily from Plac Nowy
(D-6), the famous sausage stand at Hala Targowa (p.54),
and the food truck movement finding its home on on
Skwer Judah and at Dajwór 21 (E-6, p.38). For more fast
dining options, get adventurous by visiting a local milk
bar (p.50) or Polish Snacks & Shots bar (p.59).
CHIMERA SALAD BAR
This beautiful courtyard buffet has been sealed off from
the elements and now overflows with ambience year
round. Full of potted plants, climbing ivy, natural sunlight
and surrealistic murals, Chimera’s Salad Bar may be the
most pleasant budget dining environment in town;
unfortunately it tends to overshadow the food a bit.
Choose a plate for four or six portions, say ‘proszę’ and
point at your pick of the salads, quiche, stuffed vegetables
and more. It’s not the best veggie fare in town, but it’s fast,
easy, cheap and a great place to relax.QB-3, ul. Św. Anny
3, tel. (+48) 12 292 12 12, www.chimera.com.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00. (13-25zł). 6 G S W
CURRY UP!
This small food hatch across from Plac Wolnica serves
up large, steaming portions of dal tadka, butter chicken,
hoisin beef and chole masala, plus a few smaller street
food snacks for ‹10zł. The chicken is evidently their best
seller, but we can also recommend the beef; the jasmine
rice is perfect, the lassis are decent, and the two lads that
work here have basically built themselves a solid following.
With only three small tables, a slick mural on the wall and
music from a small Bose speaker, most of their trade is
take-out.QD-7, ul. Krakowska 29, tel. (+48) 730 77 50
73, www.curryup.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (12-17zł). S
NEW
KYOTO TAKOYAKI
‘Japanese fast food’ the window declares, so what’s inside
- grilled octopus balls? Oh. Well then. If you aren’t familiar
with takoyaki (and no, we weren’t), they are basically
dough balls filled with diced octopus, cooked in a
special cast iron griddle that gives them a slightly crispy
outside and soft gooey inside. The octopus actually gives
the takoyaki more texture than flavour - most of which
comes from the toppings and sauce; choose between
6 versions, including wasabi-mayo, sour soy and
traditional kyoto. If the thought of eating octopus makes
you squirm, they also have cheese balls - basically the
same thing without the chewy bits. Delicious, cheap and
served fast, even though you’re not in Japan this is a bit of
food tourism you just have to try.QC-2, ul. Św. Tomasza
10, tel. (+48) 504 22 86 39, www.kyototakoyaki.pl.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. (14-16zł). G S W
football on the large teles, queens Nina Simone and E.
Badu on the stereo and low totals on the bill at the end,
there’s really nothing to disagree with here.QD-3, ul. Św.
Tomasza 33, tel. (+48) 12 421 30 92, www.invitopizza.
pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (11-35zł).
T U G S W
LA CAMPANA TRATTORIA
Planted on picturesque Kanonicza Street, in summertime
La Campana Trattoria is worth visiting just to relax in the
gorgeous ivy-green garden and cobbled patio; full of
sunlight and singing birds, it may be the best dining
environment in Kraków; in winter, retreat to the romantic
cellars and dream of better weather. From the same tried
and true team behind Miód Malina and Wesele - two of our
favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees) - the pasta and
risotto are as good as you’d expect, and the atmosphere
is tough to beat.QC-4, ul. Kanonicza 7, tel. (+48) 12 430
22 32, www.lacampana.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-65zł).
T E G S W
LA GRANDE MAMMA
Responsible for some of the most understated but sterling
restaurants in town, the team behind Miód Malina and
Boscaiola has put their talents on display again with La
Grande Mamma. Located on the corner of the market
square, upscale Italian dining is a treat here, with an
ambience ideal for romantic trysts over wine and Brodetto
(brothy fish stew), or more casual meetings consecrated
with delicious pizzas and pasta. In addition to outstanding
food and service, interior design is another of their fortes,
and the stripped wood and mirrored tiles employed here
give a fresh finish to their successfully established style.
As usual, acute attention is paid to every detail, and the
payoff is more than worth the figure on the bill at the end.
QB-3, Rynek Głowny 26, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 58, www.
lagrandemamma.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł).
T G S W
MAMMA MIA
Dispatched from a traditional wood-fired oven, pizzas are
the pride of this place, but the plethora of home-made
pastas and other Italian standards prove Mamma Mia
is more than just a one trick pony. The interior of clever
lighting and exposed bricks makes a cool backdrop for
casual dining, and the army of regulars is testament to
Mamma Mia’s venerated reputation.QB-2, ul. Karmelicka
14, tel. (+48) 12 422 28 68, www.mammamia.net.pl.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. (14-43zł). U G S W
NOLIO
Priding themselves on their fine Italian ingredients (water
buffalo mozzarella, pistachios from the foot of Mt, Etna),
Nolio makes Kraków’s only authentic Neopolitan-style
pizza. The dough is left to sit for eight hours and baked in
a wood-fired oven for only a minute in strict accordance
with Napoletana ingredients and technique. The interior
is all black (like the inside of their oven) with blond wood
furnishings, and the menu is minimal, offering five types
MODERN POLISH CUISINE
POD RÓŻĄ RESTAURANT
14 Floriańska Street, Krakow
RISTORANTE AMARONE
14 Floriańska Street, Krakow
(entrance from Św. Tomasza Street)
3 RYBKI RESTAURANT
5 Szczepańska Street, Krakow
COPERNICUS RESTAURANT
16 Kanonicza Street, Krakow
www.likusrestauracje.pl
2 0 1 6
42 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
JEWISH
ARIEL
You’ll hear mixed reports about Ariel; while our last visit was
underwhelming, we’ve met many who extol the virtues of
this veteran restaurant’s varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is
typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding
to the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated
in a charmingly cluttered style. The live klezmer music is a
popular draw and quintessential tourist experience, though
you may appreciate it less when you learn you are being
charged (25zł) to listen to it. In summer performances take
place daily, but in winter you should call to find out; either
way reservations are recommended.QE-6, ul. Szeroka 17-
18, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20, www.ariel-krakow.pl. Open
10:00 - 24:00. (19-78zł). 6 E X S W
DAWNO TEMU NA KAZIMIERZU
From the outside this venue is disguised to look like a row
of early 20th century trade shops and is decorated with
awnings relating to the area’s Jewish heritage. Things are
no less colourful on the inside with mannequins, sewing
machines and carpenters’ work surfaces adorning the
interiors. A great attempt at capturing the old Kazimierz
spirit, and a must-visit for those tracing the district’s past,
enjoy live klezmer music every evening except Saturdays.
QE-6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17, www.
dawnotemu.nakazimierzu.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:30, Fri,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (19-49zł). 6 U E G S W
of homemade pasta and a concise choice of classic pizzas.
Though there are a few gourmet options like pizza with
pumpkin puree or tuna steak, we recommend the ‘Mezze
Luna’ - half pizza, half calzone. Absolutely packed from the
first moment it opened, is this really the best pizza in town?
We believe it is.QD-7, ul. Krakowska 27, tel. (+48) 12
346 24 49, www.nolio.pl. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00
- 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
(17-35zł). T 6 G S
TRATTORIA CYKLOP
Located on what has become one of Kazimierz’s busiest
blocks, this building’s renovation has played its role in the
renaissance and is now home to Cyklop - a family trattoria
and pizzeria. Building their name on delicious wood-fired
pizzas (with some rather intriguing toppings) and fresh
homemade pastas, Cyklop’s menu includes meat and
fish mains, and ranges through the entire Italian canon
of cuisine from calzones to tortellini. The homey interior
features soft lighting, lots of drapes and curtains, sturdy
timber tables for large family feeds, a kids’ corner, and a
fantastic year-round garden full of happy plants. Great
for a date or family get-together, there’s an affiliated
bar next door, the cool Kotłownia club downstairs, and
a second location in the Old Town at ul. Mikołajska
16.QD-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 7, tel. (+48) 12 341 58 82,
www.trattoriacyklop.pl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Mon 13:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (20-
48zł). T G S W
February - March 2016 43 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Restaurants
ul. Karmelicka 14, Kraków
Phone +48 12 430 04 92
www.mammamia.net.pl
English and Italian
menu available.
“Ci voglio ritornare!”
xassi1,oo n\
“Nowhere in Cracow have I eaten
a better pizza.”
Taoiusz Piarix n\
THE OBWARZANEK
Any culinary journey through Kraków is likely to start with
the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled (usually
extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame seeds,
obwarzanki are sold from rolling carts on every other street
corner in Kraków, and are so inescapable they’ve become
an unofficial symbol of the city. In fact the obwarzanek is
one of only two Polish foods currently protected by the EU
on its Traditional Foods List. Known as the Cracovian bagel,
the obwarzanek gets its name from the Polish word for
‘par-boiled’ and therefore differs slightly from the bagel, in
addition to being its internationally popular counterpart’s
predecessor. Though the origins of the Jewish bagel are
complex, confusing and hotly-contested, most agree that
it was invented by Kraków Jews after 1496 when King
Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted the
production of baked goods to the Kraków Bakers Guild.
First written mention of the obwarzanek meanwhile
dates back to 1394, meaning that it’s been a daily sight
on Kraków’s market square for over 600 years. Though
increased tourism in recent years has jacked the price of
an obwarzanek up to around 1.50zł (sacrilege!), you’ll still
see countless people on the go munching these pretzel
rings. Tasty and filling when fresh, the art of truly enjoying
an obwarzanek leaves a lot up to chance. Cracovian bakers
produce up to 200,000 obwarzanki daily in the summer,
despite the fact that on leaving the oven the baked goods
have a sell-by date of about three hours. As such, finding
a hot one is essential. Enjoyed by people of all ages,
obwarzanki also feed Kraków’s entire pigeon population
when in the evenings the city’s 170-180 obwarzanki carts
essentially become bird-food vendors.
44 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
KLEZMER HOIS
Located in an old former mikveh - a ritual Jewish bath
house - on ul. Szeroka, this is one of Kazimierz’s most
well-established restaurants, and a portal into the dusty
sepia days of pre-war Poland. Serving traditional Jewish
Galician dishes from the 19th century, the restaurant
generally follows kosher rules, though there’s no rabbinical
supervision. Incredibly popular klezmer concerts (28zł) take
place each evening during dinner at 20:00 - keeping the
crowds amused and the wine flowing.QE-6, ul. Szeroka
6, tel. (+48) 12 411 12 45, www.klezmer.pl. Open 09:00 -
22:00. (19-59zł). U E G S W
MEDITERRANEAN
CORSE
Suitably situated on a quiet, curving Old Town side-street
(that could adequately stand-in for a sleepy Mediterranean
town on film), this Corsican restaurant offers upmarket
dining and excellent service in a maritime interior full
of rigging and lanterns that achieves just the right levels
of formality and romance. While a date is also advisable,
wine is an absolutely necessary companion to any of
the delicious fresh fish and seafood dishes, but with the
separate ordering of sides, bear in mind that the bill here
can quickly become as rich as the food. Recommended
by many guides, including ours.QC-4, ul. Poselska 24,
tel. (+48) 12 421 62 73, www.corserestaurant.pl. Open
13:00 - 23:00. (22-71zł). G W
DESTINO
One of the Old Town’s most impressive establishments,
Destino is a professional effort all around - from the interior,
to the menu, to the staff, to the kitchen, and then back
to your table. The spacious, Provencal interior of white
timber furnishings, soft lighting and soothing jazz is not
only relaxing, but positively uplifting, and the exquisitely
curated Mediterranean menu is full of fresh seafood, risotto
and paella, including a baked sea bream we can heartily
recommend. Save on lunch specials Mon - Fri 12:00 - 17:00.
The perfect place to prove you have good taste, enter with
your special someone, open a bottle of sparkling wine, and
you’ll both leave glowing.QC-2, ul. Św. Jana 8, tel. (+48)
12 421 04 90, www.restauracjadestino.com. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (19-55zł). T U G S W
MEXICAN
ALEBRICHE
In a town that should be admonished for its awful Mexican
food, Alebriche has almost nothing in common with its
competition, and here’s the simple difference: it’s actually
owned and operated by a local Mexican family (gasp!).
Developing an immediate cult following upon opening,
Alebriche sends ex-pats into ecstasy with its simple,
@KrakowIYP
POLISH VODKA
The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka
since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some
of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two
most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be
Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any
alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing
them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally
reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of
Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most
popular of which we describe below.
WIŚNIÓWKA
Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka,
wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see
students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at
the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in
corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit
juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright
red monogamy cure.
ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA
Due to its very name, which translates to something
like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives
even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under
the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-
coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices,
Żołądkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed
when sipped on ice.
KRUPNIK
A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and
mulling spices added.
ŻUBRÓWKA
One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports,
Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since
the 16
th
century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific
to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each
bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild
fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as
it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined
with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’
February - March 2016 45 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Restaurants
authentic, dirt-cheap Mexican eats. The menu includes
everything from huevos rancheros to flan, with spicy soups,
tamales and proper chicken mole in between. In addition
to margaritas and micheladas, this is the only place in town
where you can get horchata (our fave). A simple, but bright,
colourful interior full of paper streamers and folk costumes
confirms that the main focus is on the food - so good you’ll
be coming back until you’ve tried everything on the menu.
Also at ul. Karmelicka 56 (A-1), and heartily recommended.
QE-6, ul. Szeroka 31, tel. (+48) 516 57 63 06, www.
restauracjalebriche.com. Open 14:00 - 22:00. (15-50zł).
T U G S W
THE MEXICAN
Further proof of Poland’s naivete towards Mexican cuisine,
this franchise finally arrives in Kraków after tying its mule
to posts in five other Polish cities prior (that’s the sound of
us smacking our foreheads). Gimmicks include busty Polish
senioritas with exposed bellies slinging tequila shots from
the bottle holstered to their belts, light fixtures fashioned
from Desperados bottles, and ‘Wanted’ posters featuring
sombreroed patrons tacked everywhere. As for food
and drink, all dishes come with pickled cabbage and the
margaritas are rimmed with sugar, so forget authenticity.
Still, this colourful, over-priced cantina could be great fun
for a group piss-up, and though the placebo doesn’t work
on us, all the snogging couples would suggest it’s a proven
date destination. Ay carumba.QC-2, ul. Floriańska 34,
tel. (+48) 500 10 31 00, www.mexican.pl. Open 11:30 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. (15-50zł). 6 E X S W
HAVE YOUR SAY
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed
in this guide, let the 1.1 million yearly unique visitors
to our website, krakow.inyourpocket.com, know
about it. Every venue on our website has a function for
comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical,
so spill it.
LE SCANDALE (p.64)
La Scandale is one of the few places in Krakow to find
an extensive cocktail menu featuring things such as
mint juleps (served in a metal cup encrusted with a
thick layer of ice) and whisky sours (with a softball sized
ice ball). The tapas are equally good and a unique find
in Krakow. The prices are a bit steep by Polish standards,
but the drinks, food, and atmosphere make it worth it.
Karen from US
BUNKIER CAFE (p.59)
Bunkier is one of my favorite cafes in Kraków. It borders
the Planty and is easy to reach from the main square.
Its open-walls and antique tables give it a nice laid
back atmosphere for an lazy brunch or evening catch-
up drink. The menu is good but isn’t very extensive.
It has both smoking and non-smoking sections.
I recommend a visit!
Aseem from Krakow
46 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Polish Food
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost
uniformly off-white in colour. You simply haven’t had a
thorough sampling of it until you’ve tried all the traditional
dishes below, all of which can be found at almost any Polish
restaurant or milk bar (see p.50) in town. Smacznego!
BIGOS
Though there is no standard
recipe for this hearty stew,
ingredients usually include lots
of fresh and pickled cabbage,
sausage, onion, mushrooms,
garlic and whatever else is on
hand. In fact, metaphorically
bigos translates to ‘big mess,’
‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. Seasoned with
peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the
stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A
Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured
on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.
GOŁĄBKI
Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish consists of
boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice
before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom
sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army
gołąbki before a battle against the Teutonic Order, and their
unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal
ever since.
GOLONKA
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish delicacy,
the boiled, braised or roasted meat should slip right off the
bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with
beer. Go caveman.
KIEŁBASA
Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an enormous
variety, made with everything kind of meat imaginable,
from turkey to bison. Head to Kielbaski z Niebieskiej
Nyski at Plac Targowy (see p.54) to get a taste of Kraków’s
most famous kiełbasa, however. Two old-timers have been
grilling sausage out of a van since time immemorial at this
hallowed sidewalk stand.
NALEŚNIKI
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin
pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can
dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in
any dodgy Polish dining establishment.
PIEROGI
Doughy dumplings traditionally
filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet
cheese, meat, mushrooms and
cabbage, strawberries or plums,
though if you nose around you
will find plenty of maverick
fillings like broccoli, chocolate
or liver; the possibilities are truly
limitless and they are served
almost everywhere in the city.
PLACKI
These greasy, fried potato
pancakes are very similar to
Jewish latkes and best enjoyed
with goulash on top (placki
po Węgiersku). Highly caloric,
they’re also a tried and true
hangover cure.
ZAPIEKANKA
The ultimate Cracovian drunk
food. Order one at any train
station in PL and you’ll get half
a stale baguette covered with
mushrooms and cheese, thrown
in a toaster oven and squirted
with ketchup. Underwhelming
to say the least, however the vendors of Kazimierz’s Plac
Nowy (D-6) have made a true art out of the ‘Polish pizza.’ With
endless add-ons (including salami, spinach, smoked cheese,
pickles, pineapple, feta – you name it), garlic sauce and chives
have become standard procedure at this point. Because of
their popularity you’ll witness ridiculous lines at the various
windows around the roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At
8-10zł it’s a great value and will sustain you through a night
of heavy drinking. To leave town without having tried a Plac
Nowy zapiekanka would be felonious, as would settling for
one anywhere else in Kraków.
ZUPA (SOUP)
Poland has two signature soups:
barszcz and żurek. A nourishing
beetroot soup similar to Russian
‘borscht,’ barszcz may be served
with potatoes tossed in, with
mini-pierogi floating in it, or with
a croquette for dunking, but we
prefer to order it ‘solo’ - in which case it comes simply as
broth in a mug expressly for drinking. Żurek is a unique
sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg
chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.
© robert6666 - dollarphotoclub
Barszcz
quinn.anya/www.flickr.com/CC BY-SA 2.0.
February - March 2016 47 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Restaurants
“Friendly efficient staff,
delicious food, and had
a very happy evening!”
Margaret by krakow.inyourpocket.com
Kraków
Rynek G³ówny 10
tel. +48 12 422 74 60
www.weselerestauracja.pl
BEST
PLACE
TO EAT
ul. Sienna 12, Kraków
Phone 12 426 49 68
www.kogel-mogel.pl
What a hearty introduction
to Polish quisine!
Stuart Forster,
British Guild of Travel Writers
Recommendation
Recommendation
Recommendation
Recommendation
48 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
POLISH
CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT
Formerly known as Bar 13, Likus has revamped their
excellent wine bar more in the mould of their other
culinary successes, and now serves modern Polish
cuisine with Italian influences. Drawing from the
exclusive vintages (served by the glass or bottle) and
local delicacies of the adjacent delicatessen and wine
shop, the dining room features a contemporary open
kitchen and seasonal minimalist menu featuring rich,
creative dishes like octopus salad and pierogi with duck
confit, wild cherries and pistachios. Located in Pasaż 13,
dining the cellar of a shopping mall has never been this
classy.QC-3, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel. (+48)
12 617 02 12, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open 12:00 -
22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (25-55zł). U G S W
CZERWONE KORALE
This traditional Polish restaurant may be discreet from
the street, but the interior is one of the most vibrant and
welcoming in the Old Town. Cheerful wicker chandeliers
wound with bright ribbons and beads give the dining
rooms a warm glow, while photos of dancing highlanders
and peasant maidens frolicking in folk costumes line the
walls. Even more colour comes from the kitchen, which
serves all the Polish standards, but with some creative
innovations and a flair for presentation you’d hardly
expect. There’s an entire page of vegetarian dishes(!)
and the overall quality of the food makes Czerwone
Korale not only a pleasant surprise, but also a great value
(particularly during their 14 zł lunch deals Mon-Fri 12:00
- 16:00).QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 430
61 08, www.czerwonekorale.eu. Open 09:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (13-45zł). V G S W
DOBRA KASZA NASZA
Considering the simple concept, and the fact that it’s
discreetly tucked off a corridor full of noisy music clubs,
this is a surprisingly sophisticated restaurant, featuring
a beautiful timber ceiling and modern art on the walls.
While some familiar Polish standards share the menu,
train your attention to the first page for an introduction
to Polish ‘kasza’ - that is, groats or hot cereal. Choose from
pearl groats with chicken curry and black olives, or millet
with pumpkin, turkey and garlic sauce. A tasty, filling meal
on the market square for under 20zł? Hard to believe and
even harder to beat.QB-3, Rynek Główny 28, tel. (+48)
531 62 64 47, www.dobrakaszanasza.pl. Open 12:00 -
22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (16-30zł). T U G 
S W
ED RED
This upscale ‘beef-stro’ (our turn-of-phrase, thanks)
specialises in locally-sourced seasoned meat, dry-aged
on-site for at least twenty days. With an industrial interior
offset by large timber tables, and featuring a vast open
kitchen, Ed Red conveys the atmosphere of an NYC
steakhouse, but the curt menu is built upon local Polish
Traditional Polish cuisine,
modern character
Open: Sun- Thu 10-22 Fri-Sat 10-24
ul. Sławkowska 13-15, Kraków
tel. 12 430-61-08
www.czerwonekorale.eu
DISHING UP HISTORY
With a past that stretches back several centuries,
Kraków’s Old Town is a breathing history lesson, and
it’s not hard to unsuspectingly find yourself doing
your dining and boozing inside a piece of history.
The most famous restaurant in town is Wierzynek
(p.54), whose opening in 1364 was attended by
five kings and nine princes. The occasion was
allegedly to stop Europe from going to war, though
by all accounts the congress turned into a 21-
day marathon of feasting and binge drinking. The
restaurant has been drawing big names ever since,
with Spielberg, Castro and Daddy Bush being only
a few.
Drink in more modern history in the Noworolski
Café (p.57), where Lenin liked to entertain both
his wife and his mistress; the fabulous art nouveau
motifs inside are the work of Jozef Mehoffer, who has
his own museum at ul. Krupnicza 26 (p.80).
If you like what you see there, you’ll find a trove of
art and relics from the era inside Jama Michalika
cafe (p.56), which was the preferred meeting place
of Poland’s artists and intellectuals at the turn of the
century. In 1905 they created Poland’s first cabaret
here and the place hasn’t changed a bit since.
February - March 2016 49 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Restaurants
products and delicacies like tripe soup, blood sausage
and even a pork chop served on a bed of bigos, alongside
choice steaks and burgers. Though casual in style, the
service is outstandingly professional, and everything
from the tempting and creative culinary cocktails to the
monogrammed cloth napkins reveals that this is a fully
thought-out effort. We were positively impressed.QC-2,
ul. Sławkowska 3, tel. (+48) 690 90 05 55, www.edred.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (29-59zł).
U G S W
JAREMA
This classy veteran restaurant presents old world Eastern
Polish cuisine in a slightly ostentatious, 19th-century
interior adorned with stag antlers and faded oil paintings.
Comely waitresses in traditional costume bustle about
serving steak tartar with quail yolk, large platters of
pheasant and wild boar, and shots of vodka as live folk
music is performed each evening. Despite the now-familiar
hearkening back to the old days, Jarema is no tourist trap,
but rather a heartily recommended destination for carving
into some royal cuisine.QD-1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12
429 36 69, www.jarema.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (18-55zł).
T 6 U I V E G S W
KOGEL MOGEL
Kogel Mogel as it was, it seems, was too refined for its
own good. Ditching the concept of grand banquet hall
for the communist elite, Kogel Mogel now envelopes
you in its elegance without any ‘comrade’ kitsch. The
menu has gone full Galician and offers out-of-towners
the chance to take home a much better impression of
the local cuisine than you might acquire elsewhere. The
duck and goose dishes are particularly excellent, the fried
trout is outstanding and the large seasonal garden and
experienced staff also make this a good place for groups
and dinner events.QC-3, ul. Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12
426 49 68, www.kogel-mogel.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
(17-65zł). T E G S W
MARMOLADA
Marmolada offers delicious local Małopolska delicacies,
perfectly prepared and fired for a few minutes in a large
stone oven before arriving at your table. Narrow, yet long
and cavernous, Marmolada utilises floral folk patterns,
canopied ceilings, big timber tables and poinsettas to
create their unique combination of a comfortable local
atmosphere and low prices with great food and service.
Go elegant on Grodzka, just doors down from the city’s
most exclusive restaurant (Wierzynek), and you can leave
with a bill that’s less than half the size.QC-3, ul. Grodzka
5, tel. (+48) 12 396 49 46, www.marmoladarestauracja.
pl. Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (17-54zł). T U 
G S W
vine.co/inyourpocket
“Heaven! Fantastic food,
excellent wine, great service.
In one word: PERFECT!”
Maria - London
Kraków
ul. Grodzka 5
tel. +48 12 396 49 46
www.marmoladarestauracja.pl
BEST
PLACE
TO EAT
50 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
Kraków
ul. Grodzka 40
tel. +48 12 430 04 11
www.miodmalina.pl
“One of the best dining experiences
we have ever had. This place
deserves a michelin star!”
James by krakow.inyourpocket.com
MILK BARS
A lot has changed since
communism got knee-
capped and Poland joined
the EU. While many of the
old ways of the old days
have disappeared or be-
come slightly disneyfied
in today’s tourist-laden
Kraków, one relic remains
resolutely un-Western: the Polish milk bar (‘bar mleczny’
in Polish). These steamy cafeterias serving proletariat cui-
sine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and stu-
dents provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and
have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas
station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins
you can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an ex-
tremely well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a visit to the milk
bar is a required cultural experience for anyone who has
just set foot in the country.
Poland’s first milk bar was actually opened on Kraków’s
own market square on May 30
th
, 1948. As restaurants
were nationalised by PL’s communist authorities, milk
bars appeared in their place to provide cheap, dairy-
based meals to the masses (as cheerlessly as possible,
apparently); in fact meals at the local milk bar were often
included in a worker’s salary. In addition to milk, yoghurt,
cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars
offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-
based foods like pierogi. Times were so desperate under
communism that many milk bars chained the cutlery to
the table to deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning
you’ll notice that most milk bars today use disposable
dishes and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic
cups with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by
ashen-faced, all-business babcias (Polish grannies), and
the food is as inspired as ever - the only difference being
that meat is no longer rationed in modern PL. With the
collapse of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt,
however, some of these feed museums were saved and
continue to be kept open through state subsidies. The
range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing time
approaches, so go early, go often.
BAR KAZIMIERZQD-7, ul. Krakowska 24, tel. (+48)
12 430 68 45. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00,
Sun 08:00 - 15:00. (3-8zł). G S
POD TEMIDĄ
The easiest to find: look for the blue and white ‘Bar
Mleczny’ sign.QC-4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12 422
08 74. Open 09:00 - 20:00. (10-18zł). U N G S
February - March 2016 51 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Restaurants
Reservation +48 12 421 39 99
MORSKIE OKO
Morskie Oko aims to capture the mountain spirit of
Zakopane so there’s plenty of primitive looking furniture,
waitresses with bits bursting out of traditional costume
and regular live bands making a racket. The food is
caveman in style - delicious hunks of grilled animals - but
it has a dedicated following.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 8, tel.
(+48) 12 431 24 23, www.morskieoko.krakow.pl. Open
12:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł). T E G S W
POD ANIOŁAMI
One of the city’s most historic and charming restaurants,
Pod Aniołami offers a quintessentially Cracovian
encounter with royal medieval Polish cuisine. This
cavernous, candle-lit, almost monastic haven is
incredibly warm and inviting considering that some of
its 13th century dining areas are two levels underground;
inside you’re surrounded by historical artefacts, and two
beech wood-fired grills allow you to watch the creation
of your meal from beginning to end. The extensive menu
includes Pod Aniołami’s famous pierogi, plus everything
imaginable that can be smoked, grilled, or was
enjoyed by the Polish nobility in days of old, including
special recipes made with actual gold - an homage to
the building’s past as a goldsmithy. One of Kraków’s
richest restaurant experiences indeed, and highly
recommended.QC-4, ul. Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421
39 99, www.podaniolami.pl. Open 13:00 - 24:00. (30-
140zł). 6 G S W
MILKBAR TOMASZA
An Irishman’s upgrade of the classic Polish cafeteria, this
popular, foreign-friendly ‘Milk Bar’ offers tasty budget Polish
slow food in clean, modern surroundings with a pleasant
atmosphere (thus disqualifying it outright from being
considered a proper milk bar). Here slippered grannies have
been swapped for a staff of cute students, and institutional
interiors exchanged for wall-length windows and a bit of
colour. The daily special (18zł) includes soup and an entree, or
select from the set menu of pierogi, potato pancakes, crepes,
bagels and breakfast options. Comfort, cleanliness and taste
are worth the extra 5zł in our opinion.QD-3, ul. Św. Tomasza
24, tel. (+48) 12 422 17 06. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 -
20:00. Closed Mon. (10-18zł). T U G S W
MIÓD MALINA
Consistently excellent meals have seen Miód Malina
establish themselves as one of the top restaurants in town,
so book ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views
afforded by the raised window-side seating. This cheerful
restaurant comes with raspberries painted on the walls and
a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker evenings. Floral
touches aplenty here, lending a storybook, candy cottage
atmosphere, while the menu mixes up the best of Polish
and Italian cooking. The prices remain pegged generously
low making a visit here not just recommended (as the
Michelin Guide did), but essential.QC-4, ul. Grodzka 40,
tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:00. (26-60zł). T U G S W
52 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
POD BARANEM
An admirable establishment near Wawel Castle, the upscale
interior features exposed brick, timber ceiling beams and a
fireplace, offset by framed photos of family and guests on
the walls, creating a truly comfortable and classy dining
environment. Serving excellent incarnations of Polish
standards, the menu includes more meat than you’ll find
at a livestock market (including deer and wild boar), plus
a special page dedicated to gluten-free meals, and the
complimentary pre-meal smalec and bread may be the
best in Kraków.QC-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48) 12
429 40 22, www.podbaranem.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
(23-100zł). T U I X S
POD NOSEM
An elegant upscale dining experience on Kraków’s oldest
street, ‘under the nose’ (as the name translates) of Wawel
Castle - tantalising smells from the open kitchen will hit
yours upon entry. This establishment uses the sous vide
method to create a curt menu of modern, beautifully
presented Polish and international cuisine, which changes
every time we visit. The interior has some fine and creative
touches with regal tapestries, embroidered seating,
gorgeous dishware and some clever lamp fixtures whose
profile pay tribute to the name. Utterly professional, and
guaranteed to be one of the most unforgettable parts of
your experience in Kraków.QC-5, ul. Kanonicza 22, tel.
(+48) 12 376 00 14, www.podnosem.com. Open 12:00 -
23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (16-55zł). G W
POD RÓŻĄ (UNDER THE ROSE)
Excellent Polish cuisine served under the glass atrium of
the magnificent Pod Różą Hotel. The open and elegant
design features plenty of potted plants, a piano perched
on a raised platform and mezzanine seating overlooking
the main floor. In addition to delicious coffees, to-die-for
desserts, and an extensive wine list, the menu of seasonally
inspired entrees includes a menagerie of perfectly prepared
poultry and large game. Prices are high, but then so are the
standards.QC-2, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 18:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (49-69zł). T U E G W
POD WAWELEM
The place to visit if you’re looking to hit your daily calorie
quota in one meal. Huge portions of standard Polish fare
cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards they’re
served on, while uniformed staff weave between the bench
seating serving frothing steins of lager. Great for groups and
families, kids have their own large rumpus area, while the
grown-ups soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over
energetic live folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and
half-price on Mondays, and there’s a handy ‘vomitorium’
in the men’s room - i.e, two enormous steel basins for
those suffering from over-consumption. Now a second
location in the Cloth Hall (Restauracja Sukiennice).QC-5,
ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 23 36, www.
podwawelem.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:30.
(20-40zł). T U E G S
PĄCZKI
Pressing on in our semi-encyclopedic review of Polish
cuisine brings us to pączki (singular = pączek). These
traditional round deep-fried doughnuts have been
known in PL since the Middle Ages, earning the status
of the nation’s number one pastry. Pączki are typically
filled with confiture (rose jam or other marmalades),
glazed with sugar and sometimes topped with a few
pieces of candied orange peel. Similar to American jelly
doughnuts, the main difference is American doughnuts’
penchant for squirting the eater with disgusting jelly
and Poland’s conservative tendencies ensuring there
is only a drop of marmalade in the centre somewhere,
which an elaborate game could be made around trying
to find.
So beloved are pączki in Poland that they even have
their own holiday. Like other Catholic countries that
celebrate the last day before the fasting season of
Lent begins, Poland has its own version of the French
Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday), known locally as Tłusty
Czwartek, or Fat Thursday. With Lent forbidding
sweets and treats, Fat Thursday is a similar celebration
of gluttonous indulgence as in other countries, but
with the date bungled, and instead of parading and
partying the Poles queue up in lines that sometimes
stretch around the corner (a separate Polish tradition)
in order to purchase pączki from the local cukiernia, or
bakery. This year Fat Thursday falls on February 4th,
but pączki can be purchased any day of the year.
Flickr user Mel Sharlene CC BY-SA 2.0
February - March 2016 53 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Restaurants
RESTAURACJA SUKIENNICE
Known for their enormous schnitzel pork chops (seriously, just
split one), daily promotions (including 1-litre beers for only
7.50zł on Mondays!) and complimentary cherry vodka shots
with the check, this restaurant has been a rampant success
in one of the most high-rent locales in the country. Less
beer-hally than its sister establishment Pod Wawelem, enjoy
outdoor seating in the shadow of the Town Hall Tower in warm
weather, or the surprisingly intimate Austro-Hungary-inspired
interior inside the Cloth Hall, all while stuffing yourself silly on
local specialties at some of the lowest prices on the market
square. The fact that it isn’t a shameless tourist trap, makes it
even more of a tourist magnet.QB-3, Rynek Główny 3, tel.
(+48) 12 421 09 09, www.sukiennice-restauracja.pl. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (16-50zł). T G S W
RESTAURACJA W HOTELU FRANCUSKIM
Dingy, deliberately unfinished walls contrast with the olde-
world, over-the-top service of white suit-jacketed gentlemen
who serve everything at your table, even preparing some
of it in front of you (like the laborious mincing of the steak
tartar), all while a pianist tickles ivories in the corner. As such,
you’ll get a real kick out of dining here, and the set lunch offer
- served 12:30 - 17:00 each day - is a fantastic opportunity
to experience Francuski’s high society inter-war elegance for
a shocking 18zł (33zł on Sundays, when it includes a glass
of wine). We love it.QC-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 530 67
95 19, www.hotel-francuski.com.pl. Open 07:00 - 11:00,
12:30 - 21:00. (18-60zł). T U E G S W
SĄSIEDZI
Probably the best restaurant in Kazimierz for introducing
yourself to traditional Polish food, Sąsiedzi (‘Neighbours’)
offers up delicious portions of all the standards in a lovely
tavern-style interior that perfectly balances elegance with
homely comfort. The honeycomb of intimate rooms in
the cellar are perfect for small groups, but we’d dine in the
flower-festooned patio and winter garden every time if
there’s a table available. The staff are refreshingly friendly
and helpful, and tested classics like żurek, potato pancakes
and perch in lemon-saffron sauce all earn top marks. This
is the Polish dining experience you’re looking for, but at
prices beneath those you’d get for the same Michelin-
recommended results in the Old Town.QD-6, ul. Miodowa
25, tel. (+48) 12 654 83 53, www.oberza.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:00. (12-80zł). T X S W
SŁAWKOWSKA 1
Marrying the modern steakhouse and the country kitchen,
Sławkowska 1 is a good place to carve into Polish classics like
golonka (pork hocks), baked ribs and fresh trout - all served on
actual cutting boards - but the house specialty is steak. With a
range of locally-sourced sirloin and choice cuts from across the
world, for something really interesting cut your teeth on their
signature ‘strawberry steak.’ As with most restaurants around the
market square, the prices are aimed at tourists, and the savings
are to be had during lunch hours (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 17:00).QC-3,
ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 51 41, www.slawkowska1.
pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (25-73zł). T 6 U G S W
54 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
SMAKOŁYKI
An editorial favourite. Budget food isn’t hard to come by
in this town, but when it does, it’s typically service and
ambience that you sacrifice for your savings. Not here
though. This hip, trendy bistro serves simple, delicious
Polish cuisine inside a spacious, slightly urban, slightly retro
interior that features a mezzanine and nifty wall art made
from pinned string. Daily specials make the deals even
sweeter, and plenty of space, plus an abundance of wall
plugs and wifi that actually works(!), also make this a great
place to work.QB-3, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 12
430 30 99, www.smakolyki.eu. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. (9-24zł). T 6 G S W
WESELE
This warm, timber-framed, two-level eatery is one of
the most popular on the market square thanks to a
reputation built on Michelin recommendations, friendly
service and a comfortable atmosphere. If your Polish is
about as good as your Chinese, the name ‘wesele’ refers
to the lengthy celebration of family, food, love and vodka
that takes place after a traditional Polish wedding service,
and if this place weren’t full of tourists all the clinking
glasses and smiling faces might make you think you’d
actually crashed a Polish wedding party. The menu is
classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant,
and the goose breast is fabulous. We recommend it also.
QC-3, Rynek Główny 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60, www.
weselerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (17-65zł).
T U E G S W
WIERZYNEK
Quite a launch party this place: according to legend the
opening night back in 1364 was attended by five kings
and nine princes. Since then it’s been one esteemed guest
after another, with former diners including De Gaulle,
Bush, Castro and other world leaders, as well as starlets
like Sophie Marceau and Kate Moss. The immaculate
interiors of original period furnishings, tapestries, oil
paintings and incredible timber ceilings aren’t too
dissimilar from a tour of Wawel Castle and you can expect
a royal treatment from the staff. The seriously high-end
menu is based on the traditional feasting habits of the
Polish monarchy, but it hasn’t failed to adopt modern
influences as well, meaning you’ll eat like a king and
remember the experience - one you could only have in
Kraków - for quite a long time.QC-3, Rynek Główny 16,
tel. (+48) 12 424 96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Open 13:00
- 23:00. (32-118zł). T E G W
VEGETARIAN
CAFE MŁYNEK
The best cafe south of ul. Józefa since its inception over a
decade ago, in addition to a classic Kazimierz art gallery
atmosphere, good coffee (including drip) and square-
side seating in summer, Młynek also serves a smattering
of yummy vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free dishes like
humus, falafel, vegan latkes, Spanish tomato soup (like
LATE NIGHT EATS
When it comes to late night street food, Kraków has
you covered. Though you’ll find kebab stands all over
popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriańska and
ul. Szewska in the Old Town, your options are actually
better than that, from all night pierogi shops to the
24hr vodka and herring bars that have sprung up all
over town (see p.59). Perhaps Poland’s most popular
street food is the ‘zapiekanka’ and the best place to
get one is out of one of the hatches of the Plac Nowy
roundhouse (D-6) which generally stay open until at
least 02:00. Required eating by any visitor, the only
late night food spot more legendary is the Kielbaski z
Niebieskiej Nyski sidewalk sausage stand.
KIELBASKI Z NIEBIESKIEJ NYSKI
This legendary sidewalk sausage stand has been a
Cracovian street food institution for over twenty years.
Here two old boys in white smocks set up shop outside
their blue Nyska (a Soviet model van) every evening
except Sundays to grill kiełbasa sausages over a wood
fired stove for the hungry, drunken masses. For 8zł
you get a delicious sausage, slightly stale roll, ketchup,
mustard and an unforgettable experience. Don’t miss it
if you’re in the neighbourhood.QE-4, ul. Grzegórzecka
(Hala Targowa). Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
PRZYPIECEK
Join legions of happy locals tucking into a large range
of pierogi with various stuffings, served all night long
with no fuss and no formality. Sure, it’s not as fast as a
kebab, but it’s a much better value, better quality, and
they even offer tables to sit at. At the end of a night
of clubbing, there are few better places in Kraków for
filling your stomach.QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 32, tel.
(+48) 12 422 74 95. Open 24hrs. (9-18zł). G S W
SCANDALE ROYAL
This sexy lounge and bistro has its own special late
night menu served from 22:00 until close, comprised
of tasty tapas dishes. Choose from exotic and elegant
finger foods like bruschetta, tuna empanadillas, Black
Tiger prawns with garlic, meat balls and a lot more.
QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33,
www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 -
01:00. (8-23zł). U X S W
February - March 2016 55 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Restaurants
gazpacho, but served hot) and a big vegan breakfast.
QD-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 02, www.
cafemlynek.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00.
(16-26zł). T 6 G S W
MOMO
A cheap and cheerful vegetarian/vegan restaurant
churning out plates of brown rice, organic vegetable
mashes, a good choice of salads, a few Indian and Asian
dishes and even kimchee. Popular with left-leaning
schoolteachers, the wacky backpacker set and people that
refuse to stop smiling, Momo’s prices remain ludicrously
cheap and the food is both healthy and worth coming back
for. Try the excellent spicy sambar soup and don’t forget to
smother your food with their coveted peanut sauce.QD-6,
ul. Dietla 49, tel. (+48) 609 68 57 75. Open 11:00 - 20:00.
(6-19zł). 6 U G S
POD NORENAMI
Practised in the art of Asian vegetarian cuisine and the
metamorphic powers of the soybean like no other place
we’ve seen in PL, Pod Norenami’s long menu (too long if
we’re honest) features tofu, mock chicken and mock beef
prepared in an astounding variety of traditional dishes from
the kitchens of Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Korea and China.
While some Far East standbys (curries, tempura, sushi, pad
Thai) aren’t new to Kraków, a true vegetarian restaurant that
emphasises mock meat certainly is, and the results have
got people packing this place out and returning often. A
fun place to fool or educate the Polish palate, the interior
is modest and casual (much like the prices) as opposed to
modern and kitsch. Do Kraków’s vegetarians have it hard?
Hardly.QB-2, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel. (+48) 661 21 92 89,
www.podnorenami.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 23:00. (20-50zł). T G S W
VEGAN BISTRO NOVA KROVA
Formerly focussed on combining two current food trends
that would otherwise seem at odds - veganism and
burgers - Nova Krova has branched far beyond food in a
bun to become a full-blown vegan bistro. Enjoy a variety of
delicious dishes made from faux meats, whole grains, nuts,
beans and other vegan buddies, vegan Sunday brunch
(10:00 - 13:00, 15zł), delicious dairy-free desserts, coffee
with soy, almond or coconut milk, obscure beers and
homemade ginger- and lemonade. Burgers are still around,
and now you basically ‘build your own’ with whatever
ingredients you want, including your choice of patty
(bulgar, beans, tofu, seitan, quinoa, falafel) and bun (white,
wheat, gluten-free). As you might expect the hipster
quotient here is exceptionally high - almost as high as our
opinion of the place.QD-7, Pl. Wolnica 12, tel. (+48) 530
30 53 04, www.novakrova.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (10-18zł). 6 U 
N G S W
/polandinyourpocket
56 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Enjoy a taste of Art Nouveau decadence in Noworolski Cafe.
Cafés
KARMA COFFEE ROASTERS
Arguably the best cup of joe in town, Karma roasts their
own beans and boasts one of the best espresso machines
in the world (Synesso, from Seattle, write it down). But this
is hardly the snobby or pricey realm of the Starbucks set.
Karma caters to a more alternative crowd with a range of
vegan and gluten-free baked goods, and daily vegan
lunch specials that will make you feel great about what
you’re eating, as well as how little you’re paying. With a
full breakfast menu to complement their coffee, Karma is
a wonderful place to not only wake up, but become a bit
more conscious. Also a second location in Kazimierz at ul.
Św. Wawrzyńca 9/2 (D-7, open Sat-Sun only, 10:00 - 16:00).
QA-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 662 38 72 81, www.
karmaroasters.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
19:00. T 6 G S W
KOLANKO N°6
One of Kazimierz’s most under-appreciated venues, Kolanko
has plenty going for it. The main attractions have to be the
large garden with plenty of summertime shade and winter
warmth, and the occasional concerts that take place in the
venue space beyond it (check their FB page). Don’t forget the
cheap menu of soups, salads and creatively-stuffed sweet
and savoury crepes, however; nor the delicious and too-
often overlooked local amber and dark beers on draught.
Quirky attic knickknacks combined with klezmer and world
music selections give Kolanko 6 an escapist atmosphere
well-appreciated by couples, laptoppers and loners like
ourselves. Recommended.QE-6, ul. Józefa 17, tel. (+48)
12 292 03 20, www.kolanko.net. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu
08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. 6 G S W
CUPCAKE CORNER BAKERY
The haute cupcake trend that has spread all the way from
Beverly Hills to NYC to Kraków, and this cheerful (but
pricey) American bakery couldn’t be more authentic if it
was run by Martha Stewart herself. Offering 21 different
cupcake flavours on various days of the week (12 daily),
choose from delicious creations like Peanut Butter Brownie,
White Chocolate Pistachio, gluten-free Chocolate Cashew,
Red Velvet and Carrot Cake. If that sounds good, wait until
you try their all-natural, artisanal ice cream and milkshakes.
Organic coffee and a large selection of delicious bagels are
also on hand, everything is made entirely from scratch,
and custom orders are invited. Also at ul. Grodzka 60 (C-5)
and ul. Michałowskiego 14 (A-2).QC-3, ul. Bracka 4, tel.
(+48) 12 341 42 72, www.cupcakecorner.pl. Open 08:00
- 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. T U G S W
JAMA MICHALIKA
Established in 1895, it was in this very establishment that
Młoda Polska - Poland’s Art Nouveau movement - was
founded, with many of the leading artists of the day choosing
to take their libations inside this grand venue, and tack their art
on the walls. The place has hardly changed a bit since then and
still features loads of original artwork from the fin-de-siecle era,
as well as period furnishings, stained glass, an anachronous
cloakroom and smoking section. There’s also a full menu of
Polish food and regular folk dancing concerts. Although the
abundance of tourist groups and the poker-faced nature of
the staff limits the appeal of return visits, stopping in at this
legendary venue is still essential.QD-2, ul. Floriańska 45, tel.
(+48) 12 422 15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Open 09:00 -
22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 6 U E X W
February - March 2016 57 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Cafés
NOWOROLSKI
This local classic inside the Cloth Hall has seen the
city’s highs and lows since opening in 1910. Famous as
Comrade Lenin’s preferred hangout during his visits, WWII
occupation saw Noworolski become the top haunt of Nazi
nabobs, before being commandeered by the communist
authorities during the PRL era. Things have changed little
here, making Noworolski a creaky throwback favoured
today by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years,
but live piano concerts and the exquisite art nouveau
interiors by Józef Mehoffer make it well worth a look. You
can find cheaper and better coffee, but it won’t be served
against such an atmospheric backdrop.QC-3, Rynek
Główny 1, tel. (+48) 515 10 09 98, www.noworolski.com.
pl. Open 08:30 - 24:00. E G S W
SŁODKI WIERZYNEK
This classy cafe/shop on the ground floor of Kraków’s most
famous dining destination is everything you’d expect
based on its unrivalled pedigree. Enjoy the prime Rynek
real estate while indulging in gourmet coffee and cakes,
pralines, truffles, macaroons, chocolate figures and more
- all of which are made on-site and can be taken home
in snazzy gift-boxes; or comfortably order later from their
online shop.QC-3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96
36, www.slodkiwierzynek.pl. Open 08:30 - 21:00. G W
NEW
SWEET LIFE
This bakery and cafe is stocked with all-American goodies
like cupcakes, brownies and cheesecake, as well as savoury
quiches, soups and fortifying granola power bars - and
many of the options are vegan and gluten-free. Though
the location is off the typical tourist trail, it’s near the train
station and is a great place to post up for a laptop session
with plenty of space and unobtrusive (if slightly banal)
music. Their coffee is a definite boon with no less than
seven brewing methods on offer, including alternative
techniques like Chemex and Aeropress. Sweet indeed,
especially if you haven’t been around American service in
some time.QD-1, ul. Warszawska 7, tel. (+48) 793 01 15
44, www.thesweetlife.pl. Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 -
21:00. Closed Sun. T G S W
TEKTURA
Seemingly transplanted from Brooklyn, Tektura solidifies
the case for Krupnicza being the Old Town’s coolest street,
while getting their name in the talk over Kraków’s best
coffee. A point of pride for the baristas, in addition to being
espresso, AeroPress and Chemex experts, the staff are up for
any kind of coffee challenge you can give them. There’s an
entire shelf of enticing microbrews, a cocktail list and a full
range of fresh sandwiches, salads and sweet baked goods
to boot. Sporting a hip, urban, eco-industrial-chic interior,
Tektura also provides plenty of outlets to laptoppers,
reliable wifi, boardgames and basically everything you
could ever ask from a cafe/bar.QA-2, ul. Krupnicza 7, tel.
(+48) 797 82 78 07. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00. 6 G S W
58 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Klub Odeon, p.63.
Nightlife
If you believe urban legend (like we do) Kraków has the highest
density of bars and clubs in the world. Simply hundreds of
drinking dens can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching
from the Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them
open, of course, are thousands of students, and the millions of
tourists that flock to Kraków every year. With increased tourism
comes increased prices, however, and these days you can
expect to pay 7-10zł (2-3 Euros) for a large beer.
For clubbing, the main hedonist high streets are Floriańska
(C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where nary a medieval cellar
will be left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or
Saturday night; you can also expect most clubs to charge
a cover of anywhere from 5-20zł those nights. While the
opening hours we list here are confirmed by the venues
themselves, most are rather flexible; basically if people are
drinking, the barman is pouring. Note that bars and clubs
in the Kazimierz district have their own separate section in
the guide on page 64.
Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so use
our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - to find reviews
of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your
comments about all of those which you’ve visited. Below
is a list of nightlife recommendations depending on what
you’re looking for.
COCKTAILS
Those who want the sexiness of a strip club, without the
laddish antics can try Stalowe Magnolie (p.62) - essentially
Kraków’s version of the Moulin Rouge. Baroque (p.59) and
Diva (p.62) also offer excellent cocktails in an upscale
atmosphere, with dancing downstairs; in Kazimierz, try Le
Scandale (p.64) for expert drinks and sharp company.
CRAFT BEER
Microbrews are all the rage in Kraków these days, so there’s
simply no excuse for drinking bad beer anymore. Take your
tipples in Multi Qlti or Viva La Pinta (p.61) and you can
officially consider yourself a beer snob.
STUDENTS
Not the most discriminating demographic, students
will go anywhere there’s cheap drinks - namely Pijalnia
Wódki i Piwa (p.59). Those who like to dress up and dance,
meanwhile, head to Cien, Frantic (p.62) and Społem
Deluxe (p.63).
LADS
Irish Pub Pod Papugami (p.61) and Bierhalle (p.32) -
where matches are on and the staff are used to boisterous
behaviour - welcome stag groups, after which you can try
the local institution known as Cien (p.62). Alternatively,
head to T.E.A. Time (p.60) for a taste of home, or sample
200+ Polish and foreign ales at House Of Beer (p.60).
COUPLES
Couples looking for some face time should go wine tasting
in Bottiglieria 1881 (p.65), catch a jazz concert in Piec’Art
(p.62), snuggle in a cosy loft at Święta Krowa (p.61), or
converse by candlelight in Mleczarnia or Eszeweria (p.64).
ALTERNATIVE
Take your tattoos, tight pants and non-prescription specs
to Forum Przestrzenie (p.60) or Miejsce (p.64), your
long hair and black nail polish to Antycafe (p.59) and
your unfinished screenplay to Dym (p.60).
February - March 2016 59 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Nightlife
BARS & PUBS
ANTYCAFE
As tempting as it would be to call Antycafe a ‘hipster haven’,
since mocking hipsters is more hip than being one these
days, we wouldn’t want to do this eclectic establishment
that disservice. Between the two full bars on opposite ends
of this 30m long ‘anti’-café, you’ll find an array of candlelit
nooks, an assortment of eccentric, somewhat sinister art,
great music, and a very unique, very cool vibe indeed. True
to its name, the alternative atmosphere belies more of an
edgy bar than a quaint café, and with a great beer selection
and one of the least ostracising smoking sections in the
Old Town, you’ve all the more reason to occupy a table. If
you can find a free one, that is.QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 12,
tel. (+48) 506 48 18 88, www.antycafe.pl. Open 12:00 -
02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. U N X W
BAROQUE
Over several rooms of plush seating, high fashion
photographs, dangling chandeliers and a spacious garden
during the warmer part of the year, Baroque is a sharp,
modern space that mixes the new with the old. Seductively
attractive, its range of cocktails is consistently among the
best in the city. Choose from knock-out creations like the
Polish Spring Punch or put your head down and do your best
to rip through the 100-plus vodkas on the list. While Kraków’s
mojito love-affair continues unabated, Baroque’s still looks
the best and comes in positively huge portions. After years
of being a premier cocktail bar and restaurant, they’ve gone
and jumped into the dance scene, keeping the signature
Baroque style in the downstairs weekend club space.QC-2,
ul. Św. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06, www.baroque.
com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. X W
BUNKIER CAFE (THE BUNKER)
Attached to Kraków’s best contemporary art gallery,
this enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles
a spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been
replaced with couples, happy hour colleagues and English
teachers giving private lessons around wobbly tables and
chairs, and a sandbox for kids to dig through in summer.
A year-round pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters),
Bunkier’s inviting atmosphere is marred only by the
slow to completely negligible table service that can’t be
circumnavigated.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 3a, tel. (+48) 12
431 05 85, bunkiercafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 09:00 - 02:00. X W
SYMBOL KEY
N Credit cards not accepted G No smoking
U Facilities for the disabled 6 Animal friendly
X Smoking room available E Live music
W Wi-fi connection
POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS
A very popular Polish phenomenon is the 24-hour
snack and shot bar. Known locally as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’
(literally ‘Appetisers & Snacks’), these trendy dives cash
in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices
by offering a small selection of Soviet-era bar food, and
drinks at half the usual price. Much like an all-night milk
bar with a liquor license, Zakąski Przekąski bars are a
great place to keep the party going and meet the city’s
strangest characters.
AMBASADA ŚLEDZIA
There’s a vodka and śledź bar on seemingly every
corner in Kraków these days, and we’re gonna go
ahead and blame Ambasada Śledzia for this fishy fad.
They were first, and if we’re judging by food, they’re
also the best. In case you’re wondering, pickled herring
(śledź) is a ‘delicacy’ in these parts in the same way that
vodka is local parlance for ‘medicine.’ The two go great
together and for 12zł it’s a cheap fling with foreign
culinary culture. Though the primary ‘Herring Embassy’
now closes at midnight, the all-night shenanigans that
once characterised this cult hipster haven have simply
moved down the street to ul. Stolarska 5 (‘Śledź u
Fryzjera,’ open 10:00 - 06:00).QC-3, ul. Stolarska 8/10,
tel. (+48) 662 56 94 60. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. G W
PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA
Well-positioned on Doubting Thomas Lane, Pijalnia’s
around the clock crowds make it hard to miss. Flooded
inside and out with students and street urchins,
Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this tried and
trendy formula: offer 4zł drinks and a small 8zł menu of
traditional vodka and beer snacks in dingy environs that
conjure communist nostalgia while simultaneously
being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and
ostentation of the city’s nightlife. Did we get that right?
Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnia’s faithful
have us in the fold for being one of the city’s most fun
destinations any time of day or night, and for making
vodka blindness cool again. Finally! Also at ul. Szewska
20 (B-3) and Pl. Nowy 7 (D-6).QC-3, ul. Św. Jana 3-5
(entrance from ul. Św. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80
75. Open 24hrs. N G W
Photo by Karol Grzenia
60 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
DYM (SMOKE)
Lost in the sauce somewhere between cafe and bar,
Dym is a long, dark drink-den, the dull design of which
is made up for by the character of the clientele: primarily
self-proclaimed artists and intellectuals that blow a lot of
smoke. How many advances and grants have been blown
here it’s hard to know, but spend a few nights at Dym and
you’re guaranteed to become a character in at least two
unfinished novels. Yes, we were all so full of promise back
then; back before all our ambition and drive went into
drink, we went broke and ended up scribbling for this rag...
Ah, glory days.QC-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 13, tel. (+48) 12
429 66 61. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00.
N G W
FORUM PRZESTRZENIE
In the former reception lobby of the Soviet-era Forum
Hotel, Forum Przestrzenie is one of Kraków’s most original,
intriguing and effortlessly cool locales. The owners have
simply added dozens of bean bags, sofas and a bit of
street art sensibility to the original interiors, assembled
a highly competent kitchen to create stellar sandwiches,
salads and pizzas, stocked the bar with decent beer,
and watched the talented, tattooed post-college crowd
(“hipsters” you might call them) turn this vast riverside
venue into the trendiest place to be day or night. With
great views and plenty of space, in warm months their
huge riverside terrace is sprawling with beach chairs,
while inside there’s enough space for ping-pong tables
and foosball. DJ parties and other events are a constant,
making Forum one of the most unpredictable and
exciting venues in town.QI-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28,
tel. (+48) 514 34 29 39, www.forumprzestrzenie.com.
Open 10:00 - 02:00. E G W
HARD ROCK CAFE
Sit back enjoying your cocktail or beer overlooking the
market square and Cloth Hall from Hard Rock’s modern
split-level bar. The chaps here know how to make that
drink and the smiling faces can sometimes be all you
need after a long day facing stern museum curators. Not
the cheapest place in town, but one of comfort for many.
QC-3, Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 10:00 - 02:00.
6 U G W
HOUSE OF BEER
With over 200 bottles and 21 draught beers, this high-
ceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large
leather sofas is serious about improving the beer culture of
Poland’s drinking capital. Full of foreigners and locals alike,
the atmosphere is friendly without being overly laddish, or
having the unnecessary and all too common distraction
of TVs nattering in the background. Some bottles can be
a bit pricey so find out what the damage is before asking
the barman to uncork one, or try the local ales on draught
for more of a bargain.QD-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 35 (entrance
ul. Św. Krzyża 13), tel. (+48) 731 36 96 74, www.
houseofbeerkrakow.com. Open 14:00 - 02:00. G W
BREWERIES
BROWAR LUBICZ
Founded in 1840, and reopening after 14 years of
silence, this historic brewery has reinvented itself as an
upscale brew-pub, replete with a snazzy logo, stylish
post-industrial design, door greeters, sports on the tele,
a full card of local fare, live music on Saturday evenings,
and signature ales brewed on-site. Thoroughly
professional, Browar Lubicz exhibits all the traits of the
corporate clients it seems to be catering to, it’s only
misstep being a menu that includes 11 beers, when
only 3 are on draught at any one time, making for an
unforgivable tease. Honey-roasted wheat malt comes
as a beer snack and the solid menu offers beer-infused
interpretations of local standards like ‘maczanka’ and
‘golanka’ and a tasty beer soup. Overall, a lot of care has
gone into the rising of this phoenix, and it’s a welcome
return.QE-2, ul. Lubicz 17J, tel. (+48) 12 353 99 44,
www.browar-lubicz.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 01:00. U E X S W
STARA ZAJEZDNIA (THE OLD DEPOT)
This old tram depot has assumed a second life as
Kraków’s biggest brewery and beer hall. A large
complex of cavernous brick and timber buildings, Stara
Zajezdnia’s size is both a blessing and a curse. When
the sun’s out hundreds of beach chairs dot the garden,
but the enormous main hall is too impractical to open
except for large-scale special events. The smaller out-
buildings can still feel pretty lonely without a large party
inside, but if you happen to be in one, do bring it here.
Flat-screens are on hand for football and their lager,
wheat, plum and honey ales do well to wash down the
traditional fare tailored to complement them. Also don’t
overlook the menu of single malt whiskies if you want to
beat your friends in the race to be first under the table.
QE-6, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39 88,
www.starazajezdniakrakow.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (24-35zł). U G W
T.E.A. TIME
The name is an acronym for Traditional English Ale,
which they brew on-site and dispense from six
draughts (two of which are hand-pumped). The ales
on offer are in constant rotation, but include a bitter,
porter, English IPA and American wheat, all served by
the pint (13.6% larger than the typical Polish half-litre,
and ranging from only 9-10zł), half-pint and third-pint.
References to the UK abound in the interior, and as you
might expect, this place is a major ex-pat magnet, with
the boon of staying open a bit later than the bars back
home. Though not far from Wawel, you won’t find it by
accident, but it’s certainly worth seeking out.QC-7, ul.
Dietla 1, tel. (+48) 517 60 15 03. Open 10:00 - 24:00,
Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 -
23:00. G W
February - March 2016 61 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Nightlife
ul. Św. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl
Open: Mon – Sun 12.00 – Till the last guest
Irish Pub
Certified quality Guinness,
a wide range of whiskey,
live Irish music and live
sports on a big screen in
a great atmosphere in one
of Krakow’s oldest and
biggest pubs.
• Two bars
• Pool • Darts
• SKY – TV
(All matches shown)
The Best
Guinness
in Poland!!!
Awarded first place for quality in
Poland’s Guinness Competition.
IRISH PUB POD PAPUGAMI
A nice amalgamation of classic Irish pub and Cracovian
cellar bar. Over two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish
bric-a-brac, a billiards table, darts, plasma screens
streaming sports, fresh baked pizza and pints of
Murphy’s, Guinness and cider, Pod Papugami has a
friendly sociable atmosphere beloved by lads and
gentlemen alike. A great place to meet people and
find out just what exactly ‘the craic’ is, PP actually
captures everything we like about being in an Irish
bar.QC-2, ul. Św. Jana 18, tel. (+48) 12 422 61 01,
www.podpapugami.krakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00.
U X W
MULTI QLTI TAP BAR
If you enjoy good beer, bring yourself here. With 20
draughts, hundreds of bottles and knowledgeable
bar staff, connoisseurs will be hard pressed to call
it quits once they’ve cottoned to the fact that PL’s
current craft beer craze (and low prices) is making
the country heaven on earth for hop-heads. Hidden
on the first floor above one of Krakóws clubbing high
streets, Multi Qlti is a relative oasis of refinement,
with a low-key atmosphere of chill sounds, street
art stylings on the walls and a smoking room with
large windows overlooking the street scene below.
Bottoms up, bro.QB-3, ul. Szewska 21, 1st floor,
tel. (+48) 12 341 58 47. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
15:00 - 03:00. X W
ŚWIĘTA KROWA (THE HOLY COW)
One of the most laid-back bars in the Old Town, Święta
Krowa is an intoxicating alchemic elixir of alcohol, incense,
candlelight, cloves and ambient eastern grooves. Hidden
in a small, soulful brick cellar off Floriańska, ‘The Holy Cow’
inhabits two oriental sitting rooms slung with prayer flags,
low cushioned stools and two lofted lounge areas. Amiable
barmen conjure a range of invigorating alcohol infusions
and this is the perfect hideaway for a cold mojito in summer
or mulled cider in winter (and maybe an opium nap). A
highly recommended cult hangout.QC-2, ul. Floriańska
16, tel. (+48) 12 426 01 18. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 06:00. 6 X W
VIVA LA PINTA
Pinta has been one of PL’s most popular and most-awarded
microbreweries since 2011 when it began producing craft
ales in Zawiercie, just 70km northwest of Kraków. Hidden off
ul. Floriańska, this - their flagship brew-pub - is rightfully one
of the trendiest locales in town for hipsters and hop-heads.
Offering 14 delicious draughts and plenty more in the packed
fridge, the selection isn’t limited to Pinta ales alone, showing
an admirable solidarity among PL’s small indie breweries. The
short menu features some dishes made with their ales, but
isn’t nearly as special as the drinks - one of which is sure to
meet even the most distinct and demanding of tastes.QC-3,
ul. Florianska 13, tel. (+48) 12 421 05 90. Open 16:00 -
01:00; Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. From March
open 14:00 - 01:00; Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. G W
62 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
CLUBS
CIEŃ (SHADOW)
One of Kraków’s best clubs for over a decade, Cień keeps itself
looking sharp with leather upholstery and the latest in club
lighting. With top DJs doling it out over two dancefloors, Cień
is a wet dream for foreign lads weaned on commercial house
music and enjoying favourable exchange rates while being
fawned over by bombshell blondes who make a sport of
their sex appeal. It may be all smoke, mirrors and false phone
numbers under the interrogation lamp of the dawn, but
witness yourself scrambling back for more. As long as you’ve
made the effort to look the part and can stand up straight,
your impatience with the door queue is probably the most
likely thing to keep you out of Cień’s ultra-modern medieval
cellars.QC-2, ul. Św. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 21 77, www.
cienklub.com. Open Thu - Sat only, 22:30 - 06:00. X W
DIVA MUSIC GALLERY
A young fashionista’s idea of paradise, Diva unfolds over
two levels: the sexy cellar club full of disco balls and laser
beams, leather divans and scantily-clad sirens beyond
the red velvet rope, and the ground floor cocktail lounge
(open from 16:00) for those who don’t make it past the
pretentious face control. The former makes for a fun
place to mingle with coquettish calendar girls between
pretending to enjoy dancing to soulless electro music,
while the latter is a better for being seen with an expensive
cocktail before swanking off to your own self-image in one
of the many mirrors suspended on the walls. On weekends
prepare to dispense some cash to get downstairs.QC-3, ul.
Św. Tomasza 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 20 66, www.divaclub.
pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. E X W
FRANTIC
Dance alongside hourglass figures in what asserts itself
as one of Kraków’s best clubs/meat markets. The design
is your typical Cracovian cellar contrast of rough exposed
rock, modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes, but
the sound system lures some of the best DJs around to
put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish
pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast of flesh and fast
times for those with well-rehearsed chat-up lines eager to
jump inside the cat’s pyjamas.QC-3, ul. Szewska 5, tel.
(+48) 12 423 04 83, www.frantic.pl. Open 22:30 - 04:00,
Fri 22:50 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. X W
KLUB 30
If you’re tired of mingling with students and backpackers,
or generally feeling like a geezer when you want to hit the
town, we have a somewhat surprising recommendation
- Klub 30, the largest club in Kraków. With four floors
covering over 1000m2 of sleek walls, modern lighting,
and plush colourful surfaces, Klub 30 looks the part of a
cutting edge club, and despite a strict 25+ policy at the
door, its popularity actually overcomes its size. The music is
hardly groundbreaking, but you have three dance-floors to
choose from - each with their own bar and distinct music -
and a there’s smoking lounge at the top. Instead of feeling
LIVE MUSIC & JAZZ
PIEC’ART
The legend of this esteemed jazz den dates back to
1999, and it has managed to remain at the forefront
of Kraków’s respected jazz scene ever since, attracting
some of the biggest names in the world jazz scene
to its stage. Live concerts take place almost nightly
(check their website for exact details) in the vaulted
brick cellars, attracting an artsy crowd of jazz playing
peers and purists. A recent expansion upstairs onto ul.
Szewska has made Piec’Art more inviting than ever,
with a classy coffee and whiskey bar, featuring the
longest bar in town and silent films flickering on the
wall.QC-3, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 16 02,
www.piecart.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00. E X W
STALOWE MAGNOLIE (STEEL MAGNOLIAS)
Oozing Parisian boudoir appeal, Stalowe Magnolia is
essentially Kraków’s equivalent of the Moulin Rouge.
The interior is an intoxicating arrangement of scarlet
fabrics, red fairy lights, jewel-encrusted picture-frames
and deep sofas, where a team of young waitresses in
evening dress bring premium-priced drinks to your
table. The nightly live music is frequently outstanding,
with velvet-voiced chanteuses crooning to the
appreciative applause of sharply attired couples and
Rolexed businessmen, while in the VIP section plush,
silk-canopied beds forbid bashful behaviour. You can
catch shows nightly from 21:30 Sun-Wed and 22:00
Thu-Sat.QC-2, ul. Św. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 84
72, www.stalowemagnolie.pl. Open 19:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. E X
THE PIANO ROUGE
The red-light interior of this opulent underground
venue on the market square embraces burlesque
sensuality with boudoir curtains, velvet cushions,
plush loveseats, exotic lamps and an outstanding
bartop lined with piano keys. The Parisian decadence is
matched perfectly with attentive staff in sexy evening
attire, great cocktails and European fare, and live piano
jazz, pop and soul performances that take place every
day from 21:00 - 24:00.QC-3, Rynek Główny 46, tel.
(+48) 12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com.pl.
Open 10:00 - 02:00. E G W
Stalowe Magnolie
February - March 2016 63 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Nightlife
like you have to prove you can keep up with the kids, here’s
a club where you can enjoy behaving like one amongst
your peers.QA-5, ul. Kościuszki 3, tel. (+48) 725 70 02
15, www.klub30.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 21:00 - 04:00. X
NEW
KLUB ODEON
Laid out over two upper floors overlooking the market
square, whiffs of Parisian decadence linger in this once-
patrician locale which features a gorgeous stairwell, full-
length mirrors and elegant chandeliers. A billiards table
and budget restaurant serving big French breakfasts,
sandwiches and crepes, reveal that Odeon is actually a
casual affair for all comers at any time of day, but it’s also the
kind of place that inspires you to get dressed up and spend
the evening drinking old fashioneds. Looking to become a
player in the local live music scene, weekly Friday concerts
on the intimate stage will be organised from March, and
dance parties take place Fri and Sat. There’s something for
everyone here, so expect a diverse crowd.QC-3, Rynek
Główny 28, tel. (+48) 605 05 72 34, www.klubodeon.pl.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. E X W
NEW
SPOŁEM DELUXE
This new off-shoot of the classic, communist-themed
Społem club so successfully captures the atmosphere and
style of its predecessor that it would have been more aptly
dubbed ‘Społem Redux.’ With more space than ever for the
surprisingly stylish Soviet-era wallpaper patterns, neons, and
other colourful kitsch that earn it its namesake, Społem Deluxe
delivers a separate space for smoking and a mercifully self-
contained dance area where the DJ spins nostalgic pop hits
inside a 1968 van, but without making conversation elsewhere
impossible. Though there’s a dance party or karaoke every
night, craft beers and boardgames let you know that this isn’t
a typical nightclub, but one where you can come as you are
(no cover!) and only hit the dancefloor if the mood strikes you.
That’s our kind of place and we’ll certainly be back.QD-2, ul.
Floriańska 53, tel. (+48) 12 341 57 51. Open 18:00 - 03:00;
Wed, Thu 18:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. X W
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
PARADISE CLUB
Boy will be boys they say, and the shocking growth of strip
clubs inside Kraków’s UNESCO-listed Old Town seems to
confirm that men indeed become lads when they go abroad.
Unfortunately, with the growth of Kraków’s naughty clubs
come rumours of scams and shady, sometimes dangerous
dealings, which is why we list Paradise Club in our guide.
Right in the centre, enter and enjoy, and leave when you want
without being extorted for overpriced drinks or having to take
a cab to back to the Old Town. Inside you’ll find an executive
atmosphere and plush leather booths surrounding the dance
area, so you won’t need to get the binoculars out to observe
these birds of Paradise preening themselves on the club’s two
go-go poles.QC-2, ul. Św. Jana 10, tel. (+48) 510 48 15 51,
www.paradiseclub.pl. Open 20:00 - 04:00. X
THE BEST
STRIP CLUB
IN CRACOW
THE PLACE
WHERE DREAMS
COME TRUE
ul. St. Jan 10, Krakow
+48 12 430 61 64 (call after 8 pm)
+48 510 481 551
Open: 7pm - 4am, Mon - Sun
www.paradiseclub.pl
64 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Kazimierz Nightlife
ALCHEMIA
One of Kraków’s most evocative bars, the aptly-named
Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia candlelight,
forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of the
former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day, in
the evenings Alchemia’s murky mystique metamorphoses
blood into beer for the ruddy regulars and excitable tourists
queuing before the indifferent bar staff. The cellar, when it’s
not being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the
best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual
jazz and klezmer festivals, and the adjacent Alchemia od
Kuchni serves a full menu of excellent eats until 23:00
(24:00 Fri & Sat). Essential in every way.QE-6, ul. Estery
5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00, www.alchemia.com.pl. Open
09:00 - 03:00, Mon 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00,
Sun 09:00 - 02:00. E X W
BISTRO TRÓJKĄT
Escape the dishevelled din of nearby Plac Nowy for the
slightly more civilised, but just as boozy pub society of Bistro
Trojkąt. Here you can sample exclusive organic vodkas from
Raciborz, fine unfiltered Czech beers, Hungarian wines,
and an assortment of Central European snacks. The laid-
back decor is in keeping with the slightly scuffed Kazimierz
district, and the chummy company of the staff and clients
is perfect for those who appreciate good ale and spirits,
and approach drinking them with unwavering head-down
determination.QE-6, ul. Józefa 30, tel. (+48) 664 46 86
23, www.bartrojkat.pl. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri 15:00 -
03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. G W
ESZEWERIA
Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than
any bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszeweria’s old world
antiques, candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled
walls once played host to some of the city’s most novel
concerts, however these days it’s more of a sleepy hang-
out for hip nostalgics with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling
off their lips. Perfect for ducking the tourists, having a quiet
drink and catching the vibe of the neighbourhood, the
large seasonal garden is lush oasis, and the restroom may
be the most romantic in town (no wonder there’s a queue).
QD-6, ul. Józefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27. Open 10:00 -
02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. U N X W
LE SCANDALE
Right on Plac Nowy (and outclassing most of the
neighbourhood), Le Scandale unfolds over a series of
sleek rooms draped with sultry ladies and sharp-dressed
business sharks, before revealing an enormous garden
(heated in winter) in the back, which includes a smoking
section, second bar, and a grillmaster cooking up delicious
steaks right in front of you. Long home to some of the best
cocktails in Kraków, Le Scandale also features a full fusion-
inspired menu (served late) and sexy service. This is modern
Kraków at its finest - you may not want to leave.QD-6, Pl.
Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 55, www.lescandale.pl.
Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. U E X W
MIEJSCE
Known simply as ‘The Place’ in Polish, Miejsce offers a solid
range of homemade vodkas (nalewki), craft beers and
signature cocktails in intimate, artsy atmosphere that’s
a bit like a hipster house party. With half the patrons not
hesitating to go behind the bar themselves, here you’ve put
yourself at the centre of a closely-knit social scene, which a
flapper dress or oversized spectacles and tight pants will
ease your integration into, if that’s the goal. Decked out in
a rainbow of chairs and lamps of different shapes and sizes,
offset by hastily painted white walls and fantastic Polish
film posters, Miejsce is effortlessly original and offers a
nice departure from the brooding, gloomy nostalgia of the
district’s other offerings.QD-6, ul. Estery 1, tel. (+48) 608
49 87 37, www.miejsce.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 04:00. U G W
MLECZARNIA
In summer this is the most glorious beer garden in Kraków,
and right next to an easily recognisable film set from
Spielberg’s Schindler’s List. If that parade gets rained on, or
Alchemia
When the steady revitalisation of Kraków’s former Jewish
district began back in the 1990s, much of the investment
came from business owners able to purchase derelict
buildings, fill them with the curbside detritus pervading
the area that passes for furniture, add a liquor shelf and
presto! - open a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly
captured the spirit of the neighbourhood. The district
quickly became synonymous with cafe/bars choked with
smoke, candlelight, antiques and bohemians, where under
the stewardship of alcohol one might be able to commune
with a lost, forgotten world beneath the haze. As the area’s
clean-up, aided by the 1993 release of Schindler’s List,
brought more and more tourists to its historical sights,
Kazimierz went through a renaissance that saw it quickly
develop into the city’s hippest neighbourhood. Today the
area is chock-a-block with bars, clubs and restaurants, even
ousting the Old Town per square metre, and though a trace
of that original charisma vanishes with each new cocktail
bar opening, there is no better place in Kraków for a night
out. Kazimierz’s history makes it a requisite stop for tourists,
but it is the district’s nightlife that gives it its true vitality and
much of the mystique it still carries today.
February - March 2016 65 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Kazimierz Nightlife
you find yourself here during the dregs of winter, take solace
in the cross-street interior with its Old World atmosphere
of candlelight, rickety furniture, murky portraits, wooden
floors and wide-open, floor to ceiling street-side windows
(not to mention the enchanting bathroom). A great place
for a romantic evening conversation or afternoon coffee
with a book, this is what the whole of Kazimierz was once
about: taking things as they come. Recommended.QD-6,
ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85 32, www.mle.pl.
Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. G W
MOMENT
From locals to tourists, laptoppers to hipsters, they take all
kinds in Moment and seem to know how to please them
all. Somewhat retro with low, loungy sofas in splashy
fabrics, and a great menu of bargain breakfasts, Italian
appetisers, wraps, salads and a range of entrees, Moment
and similarly-styled not-distant neighbour Nova Resto
Bar (ul. Estery 18) have captured Kazimierz in their time-
stopping tractor beam (no surprise then that it’s the same
owners). In fact, Moment’s plethora of Plac Nowy seating,
evening drink specials and variety of inaccurate vintage
clocks lining the walls offer a handy excuse for missing
your next day rendezvous with last night’s club conquest.
Though this would certainly be an ideal place for it.QE-6,
ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668 03 40 00, www.momentcafe.
pl. Open 09:00 - 01:00. U G W
MOSTOWA ART CAFE
This seemingly nondescript gallery/cafe/bar is the linchpin
in a raft of new venues that have turned this quiet street
between Plac Wolnica and the pedestrian bridge to
Podgórze into one of the hippest places to hang out these
days. In warm weather the small interior of white walls
dressed in art canvases spills out onto the sidewalk as
young people compete for a place to pass the time drinking
delicious microbrews and homemade vodkas served out of
a tiny fridge. Check their FB profile to see what art films
they’ll be screening this week. It doesn’t take much, but
whatever it is - this place has it. If you don't know, now you
know, hipster.QE-7, ul. Mostowa 8, tel. (+48) 730 48 04
77. Open 12:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. G W
SINGER
One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for
all that was to come, essentially inventing the evocative
aesthetic of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety
antiques and candlelight associated with the district today.
Despite its long tenure, lofty reputation and intrusion of
tourists, today Singer still holds all the magic it did when
it first opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day,
Singer hits its stride around 03:00 when tabletops turn into
dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and
spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer, celtic
and swing music, the entire bar begins to feel like a ferris
wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are
obliterated. Yeah, we’ve had a few good ones here.QD-6,
ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. Open 09:00 - 03:00;
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. X W
HOT BEER?
Though the Polish winter is famous for being long and
brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the
bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably
guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those
in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of
vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane
piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot
pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon
and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty
is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas
present, and others still an utter profanity. Regardless,
it’s a necessary invention and a must-try (at least once)
for anyone travelling in PL during the winter months.
Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as
you’ll notice by the barrel-shaped stands selling cups of
it during an outddor fair in winter. The popular regional
brand is Grzaniec Galicyjski and if you enjoy drinking it
in public so much, you’ll be delighted to discover you
can buy it in almost any alcohol shop and easily prepare
it at home as well. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...
and Na zdrowie!
WINE BARS
BOTTIGLIERIA 1881
Discreetly hidden near Plac Wolnica, this small, intimate
wine bar exudes class and taste with a sharp decór
of fine stonework and rough-hewn timber, an open
kitchen, VIP service, and an expertly stocked wine
cellar (of course). Chef Paweł Kras has put together a
concise, mouth-watering menu of delicious dishes,
and tailors a tantalising assortment of fresh tapas
(4zł each) right before your eyes, while sommelier
Michał Jancik complements them perfectly with
his recommendations. A great place for business or
courtship, Bottiglieria earned an ‘Award of Excellence’
from Wine Spectator magazine, and recently won a
top local award for their cuisine.QE-7, ul. Bocheńska
5, tel. (+48) 660 66 17 56, www.1881.pl. Open 12:00 -
23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. G W
CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT
Serving modern upscale Polish food with Italian
influences, Concept 13 benefits from the select vintages
and regional products of their adjacent delicatessen
and wine shop. Sit at the bar, or in their dining room
in front of the open kitchen, and enjoy an exclusive
selection of red, white and sparkling wines by the glass
or the bottle. Located in Pasaż 13, drinking wine in the
cellar of a shopping mall has never been this classy, and
it makes for a welcome break from being teased by the
3000zł shoes for sale nearby.QC-3, Rynek Główny 13,
tel. (+48) 12 617 02 12, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. U G S W
Kraków Sightseeing
Kraków is much more than just cellar bars and sexy ladies
(though that would suffce for most). So put that drink
down, set an alarm, and go discover the magic of this city
- district by district.
Intrepid tourists have the city’s spoils largely to themselves this time of year, so go make the most of it. | © R.Babakin / dollar photo club
February - March 2016 67 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Sightseeing
Kraków has always been, in many respects, a charmed city.
With a history that dates back to the 4
th
century settlement
of Wawel Hill, Kraków has fortuitously avoided destruction
since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area in the
13
th
century, growing into one of the most prominent
cities in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland
not to come out of World War II looking like a trampled
Lego set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on
the enchanted city centre during 45 years of supervision,
forced to erect their gray communist Utopia in the outlying
suburb of Nowa Huta. As a result, Kraków is today one
of the most beautiful showpieces of Eastern Europe - a
claim validated by its historic centre’s inclusion on the first
ever UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978, along with the
nearby Wieliczka Salt Mine and only ten other places in the
world. A city of majestic architectural monuments, cobbled
thoroughfares, cultural treasures, timeless courtyards,
priceless artworks and legendary beer cellars and gardens,
Kraków’s historic centre is the pride of Poland.
WHAT TO SEE
Kraków’s centre can be divided into two main sections -
the Old Town and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter),
with Wawel (the former Royal Castle) towering between
them. These three areas are requisite for anyone visiting
the city - even if just for a day - and have been given their
own separate treatment with accompanying cultural
listings within this guide. Though one could spend their life
wandering in and out of the cobbled streets, courtyards,
cafes, clubs and museums of the Old Town and Kazimierz
(we’ve attempted to make a life out of it), don’t hesitate to
take a trip across the river into Podgórze - arguably the city’s
most evocative and mysterious district; the Jewish heritage
trail also naturally leads you from Kazimierz to Podgórze,
where the worst horror of Kraków’s Nazi occupation played
out and Schindler made a name for himself.
Just west of the Old Town lies Salwator - Kraków’s greenest
district, and home to one of its most unique outdoor
attractions, Kościuszko Mound. Within these pages you’ll
also find a section devoted to Nowa Huta, one of only two
planned socialist realist cities ever built. Designed to be
the antithesis of everything Kraków’s Old Town represents,
both culturally and aesthetically, the commie comforts
of Nowa Huta are only a tram ride away. Those staying in
the area for a week or more should strongly consider day
trips to Wieliczka, Auschwitz-Birkenau and Tarnów,
information about all of which you’ll find here by reading
on. However long your stay, the meticulously updated
information in this guide will help you make the most of it.
Enjoy exploring Kraków and Małopolska.
KRAKÓW IN 24HRS
Kraków’s nucleus is the market square (p.68), and as
such, the first thing you should do after dropping off
your bags is figure out how to get there - on foot, or via
krakow.jakdojade.pl (p.17) if you’re staying somewhere
beyond the confines of our map on p.139. Exploring
the ‘Royal Route’ (p.68) and the market square en
route to Wawel can take a full day if done correctly with
short stops/detours for culture, coffee and comfort
food - and it’s exactly what you should do if you’re here
with limited time. Have breakfast in Charlotte (p.34),
and later a filling Polish lunch in Kogel Mogel (p.49), or
go for more familiar fare in Aperitif (p.32).
Make sure that your time on the market square coincides
with the turning of the hour so you hear the famous
hejnał mariacki (p.72) - the bugle call played from the
tower of St. Mary’s Basilica (p.73), and visit the church’s
interior to see the magnificent altarpiece. Also take an
hour to visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.76)
inside the Cloth Hall and stand in awe of some of the
largest canvases you’ve ever seen in your life.
After lunch start working your way down ulica
Grodzka (C-4) towards Wawel, and make sure that you
stop inside St. Francis’ Basilica (p.73) quickly to see
Wyspiański’s colourful interiors and mind-blowing
stained glass window. After admiring the apostles
outside the Church of Saints Peter & Paul (p.72),
it’s on to Wawel Castle (p.84). If there’s plenty of
time consider a trip through the State Rooms, or rent
the audioguide for Wawel Cathedral; if not, content
yourself with simply admiring the architecture from the
castle’s interior courtyards (it’s free to walk around after
all) and later have a stroll along the riverbanks of the
Wisła River below the castle.
After dark head back to ul. Kanonicza for a romantic
dinner in Pod Nosem (p.52) or La Campana (p.40),
or backtrack a bit more to Pod Aniołami (p.51) or
Miód Malina (p.51). After dinner return to the heart
of the Old Town for jazz in Piec’Art (p.62), cocktails
in Baroque (p.59), or Polish microbrews in Multi Qlti
(p.61). For a late night food tourism it’s Pijalnia Wódki
i Piwa (p.59).
Alternatively, this is your chance to check out
Kazimierz (p.86); if you’re interested in a klezmer
concert get to Klezmer Hois (p.44) by 20:00, or just go
straight to Plac Nowy and start drinking in Alchemia
(p.64). Make sure you try at least a few flavoured vodkas
(p.44) and if they do their magic, head to Singer (p.65)
after midnight to start dancing on tables. For late night
hunger pangs, ordering a zapiekanka (p.46) on Plac
Nowy (p.92) is basically obligatory. Now all that’s left to
do is fall in love and stay forever...
Find loads more content
and leave your comments at
krakow.inyourpocket.com
68 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
The Royal Route
Any exploration of Kraków’s Old Town should start with
the ‘Royal Route’ - the historical coronation path of the
Polish kings when Kraków served as the royal capital from
the 14th century to the very end of the 16th century.
Most of the Old Town’s prime sights lay along this route
from the Floriańska Gate to Wawel Castle. For many of less
noble lineage, however, the route begins at Kraków’s train
station (E-1), a walk from which to the main market square
is among the most regal and awe-inspiring introductions
to any city in Europe. Following the human traffic from
the station through the ul. Basztowa underpass will plant
you in the green space that encircles the Old Town known
as the Planty (D-2, p.79). Ideal for a fair weather stroll,
the Planty was once a series of medieval fortifications
surrounded by a moat. After Poland’s Third Partition in
the late 18th century, the order came down from Austrian
Emperor Franz Joseph I to dismantle these neglected
structures, however thanks to local effort the northern
parts of the wall were spared, including the magnificent
Barbican and Floriańska Gate. Walking the two blocks
towards the Barbican, take note of the Słowacki Theatre
(D-2, p.69) to the left on ul. Szpitalna. A marvellous
Baroque masterpiece from 1893, while it’s a bit difficult
to infiltrate during the day, buying an affordable ticket to
the theatre is highly recommended. On ahead, the circular
fortress of the Barbican (D-2, p.69) was added to the city’s
defences in the late 15th century while, directly across
from it, the Floriańska Gate (D-2) that officially began
the Royal Route dates back to 1307. Pass through it and
you’re on one of Kraków’s main commercial streets. Behind
the Golden Arches, kebab and souvenir signs don’t fail to
notice the architectural detail of the facades. On this street
you’ll find the Jan Matejko House (C-2, p.79), as well as
the under-appreciated Pharmacy Museum (p.82).
FOLLOWING THE ROYAL ROUTE
This walking tour from the train station to the Castle
takes you past most of the Old Town’s major sights -
more info on which you’ll find in the following pages.
MAIN MARKET SQUARE
Kraków’s main market square (Rynek) serves as the
city’s gravitational centre, and is the natural start and
finish point for any tour of the city. Originally designed
in 1257 - the year Kraków was awarded its charter - the
grid-like layout of the Old Town and its central square
have changed little in the centuries since. Measuring
200 metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the
largest medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded
by elegant townhouses, all with their own unique
names and histories. The Rynek has always been the
city’s natural assembly point for public celebrations,
parades, protests and even executions; it was here that
homage to the King was sworn until 1596, here that
Tadeusz Kościuszko famously inspired the locals to
revolt against foreign rule in 1794 (see feature p.6), and
here also that ‘Der Führer’ himself announced the name
changed to ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ during Nazi occupation.
Fortunately the moniker didn’t last long and today the
Rynek remains a stage for Polish culture, hosting annual
Christmas and Easter markets, as well as numerous
festivals and outdoor concerts.
Taking centre stage is the huge Cloth Hall (Sukiennice)
- effectively the world’s first shopping mall, built in
the 14th century. To this day it is still crammed with
merchant stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork and
assorted tourist tat. Beneath it the hi-tech Rynek
Underground museum traces its history, as well as
that of the entire city, while the second floor hosts the
underrated 19th Century Polish Art Gallery.
On the square’s east side stands one of Kraków’s best-
loved monuments - that of Poland’s most eminent
scribe, Adam Mickiewicz - between the Cloth Hall and
the Rynek’s other crowning glory, St. Mary’s Basilica.
Don’t miss Veit Stoss’ magnificent altarpiece inside, or
hearing the hourly bugle call played from its tower.
On the square’s other side is the 70 metre Town Hall
Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall
remaining after many fires, renovations and short-sighted
demolitions. From March visitors can once again ascend
up to the 3rd floor through Gothic vaulted rooms which
contain, amongst other things, 1960s photographs of
Kraków and a view out on the square below.QC-3.
mrallen / Dollar Photo Club
Floriańska Gate Photo: eunikas, Dollar Photo Club
February - March 2016 69 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
The Royal Route
Arriving upon Kraków’s main market square or ‘Rynek’ (C-3,
p.68), you are now standing in the heart of Poland with
your finger on its pulse. Historically, culturally and spiritually
the Rynek and Wawel may be the two most important
sights in the country (sorry Warsaw). The largest medieval
market square in Central Europe, Kraków’s Rynek is 200
metres square and functions as the city’s social gravitation
point. Lined with cafes and restaurants, filled with people,
pigeons, street performers, musicians and horse-drawn
carriages, this is a place of festivals, concerts, parades and
other events. At its centre lies the impressive Cloth Hall
or ‘Sukiennice’ (p.76) - a neo-Gothic structure which
has served as a market for merchants since the Middle
Ages, and whose history you can now learn in the Rynek
Underground museum (p.82) housed beneath it, not to
mention the wonderful 19th Century Polish Art Gallery
(p.76) on the first floor. Directly before you as you’re leaving
Floriańska is St. Mary’s Basilica - or Mariacki Cathedral
(p.73) - one of the most dazzling cathedrals in the country
famed for its incredible altarpiece and stained glass. It’s
from atop the taller of the two cathedral towers that a
bugler plays an abbreviated tune every hour on the hour -
don’t miss it. On the other side of the square you’ll find the
Town Hall Tower (p.83), with a viewing platform at the top
(open March - October) and a theatre and restaurant in the
former basement prison.

Leaving the Rynek follow the kings down ul. Grodzka to
Plac Wszystkich Świętych (C-4). To the right is St. Francis’
Basilica (B/C-4, p.73) with an Art Nouveau interior by
Stanisław Wyspiański that should not be missed, while
directly before you are three more incredible Wyspiański
stained glass windows in a specially-made modern
building. Ulica Grodzka leads you past the Church of
Saints Peter & Paul (C-4, p.72) with its striking sculptures
of the 12 disciples before it. Cut across the small square to
your right and you’ll find yourself on one of Kraków’s most
handsome streets, ul. Kanonicza. The late Pope John Paul
II’s former residence is at numbers 19-21, which now house
the Archdiocesan Museum (C-5, p.77). Kanonicza lets
out directly at the foot of Wawel Castle (B/C-5, p.84), the
city’s defining landmark. A source of great pride, patriotic
and spiritual strength, Wawel is worth spending half a day
exploring, as well as the Wisła riverbanks below.
Church of Saints Peter & Paul © Jörg Hackemann - dollar photo club
SŁOWACKI THEATRE
Regarded today as an architectural masterpiece, the
Słowacki Theatre came under fierce criticism when
construction began, due to the demolition of the
medieval Church of the Holy Ghost to make room for it.
Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski modeled his design
on the Paris Opera and the structure is distinguished for
its elaborate facade decorated with allegorical figures.
Sadly, the interior is usually off limits to the public
unless there is a production on, however a pleading
look may be enough to get past this obstacle. The foyer
and marble staircase are supreme examples of fin-de-
siecle thinking, and the lavish stage curtain featuring
paintings by Henryk Siemiradzki is alone worth the
deviousness needed to sneak in.QD-2, Pl. Św. Ducha
1, tel. (+48) 12 424 45 25, www.slowacki.krakow.pl.
BARBICAN
The showpiece of the city’s medieval defences, the
Barbican was built at the end of the 15th century to
protect Kraków’s main entrance and was connected
to the Floriańska Gate via a drawbridge over the moat
that surrounded it. 24.4 metres in diameter with walls
3 metres thick this masterpiece of medieval military
engineering proved impenetrable and today stands
as one of the only surviving structures of its kind in
Europe. Built in Gothic style, the Kraków Barbican is
topped by seven turrets and includes 130 defensive
slots used by archers and riflemen. Today the Barbican
is used for various special events (medieval pageants,
jousting contests) and can be visited as an outdoor
museum, where you’ll learn the history of Kraków’s
defensive walls.QD-2, ul. Basztowa, tel. (+48) 12
422 98 77, www.mhk.pl. Closed until mid-March.
Admission 8/6zł, family ticket 16zł. Y N
Patryk Michalski / Dollar Photo Club
70 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Old Town
GUIDED TOURS
If IYP’s authoritative print guide and exhaustive web portal
just aren’t enough, there are plenty of tour companies to
choose from in Kraków and we list the best of them here.
If you’re wondering about the ever-popular antique horse-
drawn carriages that line the market square, routes and
prices are individually determined with the driver but rides
generally cost about 150zł/30mins or 250zł/hr. Just don’t
expect them to disseminate any information about what
you’re seeing along the way (see, you might need our help
after all); that bright idea hasn’t occurred to anyone yet.
CRACOW TOURS
A variety of tour packages available, including thematic
city centre tours and popular day-trips to Auschwitz,
the Wieliczka salt mines, Zakopane and more.QB-2, ul.
Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 430 07 26, www.cracowtours.
pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
DISCOVERCRACOW.EU
This helpful tourist office offers walking and electric car
tours of Kraków, as well as airport transfers and excursions
to Wieliczka and other area attractions. Also a sales point
for the Kraków Tourist Card and museum tickets. Second,
larger location at ul. Św. Jana 2 (C-3, open 09:00 - 19:00;
from March open 08:00 - 20:00).QC-3, Rynek Główny 30,
tel. (+48) 12 346 38 99, www.discovercracow.eu. Open
09:00 - 19:00. From March open 08:00 - 20:00.
FREE WALKING TOUR
As advertised, this outfit offers free English-language
walking tours of the Old Town every day at 10:00 and 14:00,
with tours of Jewish Krakow at 10:30 and 13:30. Both tours
last about 2.5 hours, and leave from in front of St. Mary’s
Basilica on the market square (look for the ‘Free Walking
Tours’ sign). Given by professional licenced tour guides,
have some cash ready to tip these fine people, and check
their website to see all the other free tours they offer.Qtel.
(+48) 513 87 58 14, www.freewalkingtour.com.
S-TOURS
This family-owned outfit organises personalised guided
tours of Kraków and the surrounding region for individuals,
rather than standardised group trips. Airport transfers and
accommodation can also be arranged. For more info and
prices, contact them by email: guides@s-tours.pl.Qtel.
(+48) 530 17 07 80, www.s-tours.pl.
WOW KRAKOW!
Use WOW KRAKOW’s iconic red bus at your leisure, getting a
guided tour of the town as it zips between 11 stops, where
you can get off and on again as you wish. The bus runs from
about 09:30 - 18:30, appearing at each stop every 45mins
(exact schedule online).QD-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 601
50 21 29, www.hophopbus.pl. Tickets 60/40zł for 24hrs,
90/70zł for 48hrs; 40/30zł if you just want the tour
without getting on and off the bus; kids under 12 free.
Cracow City
Guides
Professional, licensed city guides of Cracow and
Małopolska region are inviting you to private tours.
s Half Day City Tour
s Half Day City tour and Jewish heritage
s Wieliczka Salt Mine private tour
s Auschwitz - Birkenau museum private tour
Also available: Full day city tour of Kraków, Zakopane
(winter capital of Poland), Pope John Paul II tour,
Jewish Heritage tour, Czestochowa tour, Ojcow tour
Contact: guides@s-tours.pl
Ph: +48 530 170 780
Office working hours: Mo-Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00
www.s-tours.pl
YOUR TRAVEL PARTNER IN POLAND
February - March 2016 71 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Old Town
TOURIST CARD
The enterprising tourist should
consider picking up the Kraków
Tourist Card, a superb piece
of plastic that allows you
free entry to over 40 Kraków
museums (that’s basically all of them, except Wawel),
and free travel on trams and buses, day and night -
including to and from the airport and Wieliczka Salt
Mine. An impressive savings, two and three day cards
are available, priced at 100zł and 120zł, respectively.
Another option is the ‘Museum & Attractions Pass’ -
essentially the same card without free transport, valid
for three days, and priced at 70/60zł. Every venue listed
in our guide which accepts the Kraków Tourist Card has
been marked with a Tourist Card Y symbol. Available
at most tourist information offices, for a full list of
vendors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com.
TOURIST INFORMATION
CRACOW CITY TOURS
Also at ul. Floriańska 44 (D-2, tel. 12 421 13 27, open 10:00 -
18:00).QD-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 13 33, www.
cracowcitytours.com. Open 08:30 - 17:00. Y
DISCOVERCRACOW.EU
Also at ul. Św. Jana 2 (C-3, open 09:00 - 19:00; from March
open 08:00 - 20:00).QC-3, Rynek Główny 30, tel. (+48) 12
346 38 99, www.discovercracow.eu. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
From March open 08:00 - 20:00.
INFOKRAKÓW
The official tourist info office run by the city of Kraków,
with four other locations around the Old Town: ul. Św. Jana
2 (C-3), ul. Szpitalna 25 (D-2), ul. Powiśle 11 (B-5) and Pl.
Wszystkich Świętych 2 (C-4, Wyspiański Pavilion).QC-3,
Rynek Główny 1/3 (Cloth Hall), tel. (+48) 12 433 73 10,
www.infokrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
INFOKRAKÓW KAZIMIERZQD-6, ul. Józefa 7, tel. (+48)
12 422 04 71, www.infokrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
JORDAN TOURIST INFORMATION AND
ACCOMMODATION CENTRE
Also at ul. Długa 9 (C-1), the bus station (E-1) and ul. Gęsia 8
(Galaxy Hotel, K-3).QD-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 60
91, www.krakowhelp.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun.
SEEKRAKOW
Also in the train station (E-1, open 07:00 - 21:00), at ul. Grodzka
18 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:00), Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2 (C-4,
open 09:00 - 20:30) and the ul. Basztowa underpass (D-2,
open 09:00 - 20:00).QC/D-2, ul. Floriańska 6, tel. (+48) 12
429 44 99, www.seekrakow.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
%
AUSCHWITZ-BIRKENAU FROM 80 PLN
WIELICZKA SALT MINE FROM 80 PLN
KRAKÓW CITY TOUR FROM 80 PLN
72 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Old Town
CHURCHES
While the religious sanctuaries in this city are almost
innumerable, we’ve used a bit of discrimination in only
listing the most remarkable and unavoidable of the bunch
here. The following places of worship are all located in
the Old Town, while Kazimierz, Podgórze and Nowa Huta
churches are listed in their respective sections.
CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL
Kraków’s premier Jesuit Church was built in the
early 1600s, and its crypt serves as the new national
pantheon for Poles distinguished in the arts, science
and culture (Sławomir Mrożek was the first interred here
in September 2013). The twelve disciples standing on
the gates outside are the church’s most striking feature,
although the interior has been extensively renovated
and the airy, austere grandeur of this late Renaissance
building is now evident. Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault
Pendulum - a device invented by French physicist Leon
Foucault in 1851 which proves the earth’s rotation, shows
demonstrating its use generally occur on Thursdays at
10:00, 11:00 and 12:00, but check their website to be sure.
QC-4, ul. Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65, www.
apostolowie.pl. Open 11:00 - 15:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30.
Closed Mon.
ST. ADALBERT’S
Kraków’s oldest church sits not unlike a lost orphan
at the southeast corner of the Cloth Hall - a mad mix of
pre-Roman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque
architecture. The earliest parts of the building date to the
11th century, thus pre-dating the Rynek and explaining
its seemingly random position within it. St. Adalbert had
his own cult following at the time, which explains how it
managed to survive. A look inside is well worth it, not least
because the floor sits some two metres below the surface
of the main square, and a great way to enjoy the church
is during the frequent concerts by the Royal Chamber
Orchestra.QC-3, Rynek Główny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, no visiting during mass, please. Y
THE HEJNAŁ
One of the most captivating Cracovian traditions is the
hejnał (pronounced “hey-now”) – a short, melodious
bugle call played every hour, on the hour, in the four
cardinal directions from the left tower of St. Mary Basilica
(C-3). For centuries it has been the job of local firemen
to climb the 239 steps to the top of the tower, ring the
church bell and perform the hejnał precisely on the hour.
A source of pride and family heritage for the few men
chosen to do it, the job requires not only great discipline,
but also bravery as local legend would have it. The first
written mention of the song dates all the way back to
1392, and though its exact origins are unclear, it was
apparently used as a warning of fires or invasions. As the
story goes, in 1241, as Tartar invaders crept near the city
gates for a nefarious nocturnal attack, a night watchman
saw them coming and played the signal from atop the
defensive walls to arouse the slumbering city to arms.
As he did so, an arrow pierced him through the throat,
abruptly suspending the song in mid-melody. To this day,
the tune likewise cuts off in mid-report to symbolise the
city’s vigilance, and commemorate the lone guardsman
who woke the city and thereby saved it.
It’s a nice story, and since trumpet calls were used
commonly across Europe during medieval times to
open and close the city gates, its entirely conceivable
that the legend is true. However, some have claimed
that the story of the arrow-stricken trumpeter is a
complete fiction made up in the 20
th
century. Polish
journalist Leszek Mazan even went so far as to suggest
that an American fabricated the whole ‘legend’ in
1929 (blasphemy!). Whatever its origin, any visitor
or Cracovian will surely attest that the hejnał’s living
tradition defines and shapes Kraków. In addition to
pleasing visitors able to witness the bugle call live
from the church tower every hour, the tune can also be
heard all over Poland when it is broadcast live over the
radio every day at noon. St. Adalbert’s Church, with St. Mary’s Basilica in background; photo
by Artur Turyna, wawel.net
February - March 2016 73 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Old Town
ST. ANDREW’S
St. Andrew’s offers the finest example of Romanesque
architecture in Kraków. Built between 1079 and 1098, it
has been a place of worship for 900 years and was used
as a refuge and fortress during Tartar invasions. Most of the
relics were looted anyway, making a trip inside a bit of a
letdown. Remodelled by Baldassare Fontana during the
mad-for-all-things-Baroque 18th century, note the pulpit
which resembles a boat - typical of the Baroque style.
QC-4, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 12. Open by
prior arrangement.
ST. FRANCIS’ BASILICA
Kraków’s most colourful church, and our personal
favourite, thanks to the gorgeous Art Nouveau
interiors by native son Stanisław Wyspiański,
which nicely balance the organic and geometric
with unique floral patterns. Wyspiański also
made the eight stained-glass windows around
1895, including the controversial and iconic
centrepiece, ‘God the Father in the Act of
Creation.’ Dating back to the 13th century, St.
Francis’ Basilica was the first brick building in
the city and is well worth popping in, even for
those who could care less for looking at another
church.QC-4, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel.
(+48) 12 422 53 76, www.franciszkanska.pl.
Open 10:00 - 16:00 except Sunday when there
is no visiting due to mass.
Plac Mariacki 2
31042 Kraków
tel.: 782 297 715
www.biancaristorante.pl
Eatalian
Food Concept
Simple, modern
cooking right in
the heart of Cracow.
Krakow In Your Pocket, 2014
Recommendation
ST. MARY’S BASILICA
After Tartar raids in the 13th century left the original church
in ruins, St. Mary’s was rebuilt in Gothic style on its existing
foundations and consecrated in 1320. In the early 15th
century the towers took the iconic form they have today,
when the northern tower was raised to 80m high and
made into a watchtower for the city. It is from here that
the hejnał mariacki - the city’s famous bugle call - is
played every hour on the hour; don’t miss it.
Inside the altar, stained glass windows, and blue, star-
filled ceiling of St. Mary’s will take your breath away.
The magnificent wooden altarpiece was the principal
work of 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka
Wit Stwosz) for twelve painstaking years, and depicts
the Virgin Mary’s Quietus among the apostles; note,
however, that gradual conservation work on the altar is
currently underway (projected to last until 2020), and
not all elements may be on display during your visit.
Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings by
Polish masters Matejko, Mehoffer and Wyspiański done
in the late 19th century.
The church is available for worship without paying an entry
fee via the main entrance. Tourists are asked to use a side
entrance, however, and not visit during services; we list the
tourist visiting hours below. Tickets (10/5zł) are purchased
in a separate building across from the tourist entrance.
QC-3, Pl. Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.
mariacki.com. Open 11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
Last entrance 15 minutes before closing. Y
74 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Old Town
MONUMENTS
ADAM MICKIEWICZ
One of the most important statues in Poland, the large
likeness of the romantic poet and national hero Adam
Mickiewicz (1798-1855) was originally unveiled in 1898 to
celebrate the centenary of the great man’s birth, and, like so
many other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the
occupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in
the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygier’s original,
and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place.
Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (who’s most famous work, Pan
Tadeusz begins with the words ‘Lithuania, my country!’ and
who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas
Mickevičius) never visited Kraków until 35 years after his
death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just down
the road at Wawel.QC-3, Rynek Główny.
EROS BENDATO
Among Kraków’s most well-known landmarks, this
sculpture in the western corner of the market square is
a popular meeting place and at some point serves as a
photographic backdrop for almost every tourist who visits
the city. Affectionately referred to as ‘The Head’, the bronze
body part’s official title is ‘Eros Bendato’ (Eros Bound) and is
the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj (1944 - 2014). A student
of Tadeusz Kantor at the Kraków School of Art, an exhibition
of 14 of Mitoraj’s monumental works dressed the Rynek
from October 2003 to January 2004, during which the artist
gifted this work to the city, sparking controversy over what
to do with it. Initially, the sculpture was designated for the
square in front of Galeria Krakowska (E-2), but the artist was
indignant about having his work in front of a commercial
building. Despite protest from historians and many locals,
the sculpture eventually found its current place near the
Town Hall Tower, where it has become an unexpected
tourist attraction. In summer, children can be seen
crawling all over the hollow edifice, sticking their heads
and limbs through the eyeholes for camera-snapping
parents, though winter too often finds it profaned with
trash and foul-smelling liquids. Fans of Mitoraj’s work will
find another of his large sculptures - titled ‘Luci di Nara’ -
adorning the charming courtyard of Collegium Luridicum
(ul. Grodzka 53, C-4), and another in front of the Kraków
Opera building (ul. Lubicz 48, E-2).QB-3, Rynek Główny.
KRAKÓW IYP ONLINE
Due to space restrictions in our print guide, we’re
actually only able to publish a fraction of all the
excellent content we have on Kraków and the
surrounding region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit
our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just
how much of the country we cover, and to download
guides to Warsaw, Gdańsk, Wrocław, Katowice and
other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small
sampling of great Kraków-related content we didn’t
have room for this issue, with links to where you’ll find
it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!
PŁASZÓW CONCENTRATION CAMP
The story of the Holocaust in
Kraków didn’t end when the
Jewish Ghetto was liquidated.
Six to eight thousand Jews
were moved to this concentra-
tion camp within the city’s lim-
its, where the horror continued
to unfold. We have the most
exhaustive English-language guide to the site:
iyp.me/plaszow
LITERARY KRAKÓW
In October 2013 Kraków was designated a ‘UNESCO
City of Literature.’ The city’s resume includes the first
bookstore in Europe, and Nobel Prize winners for
Literature - Czesław Miłosz and Wisława Szymborska.
Our guide to Literary Kraków introduces you to the
city’s most famous authors and best literary locales:
iyp.me/literarykrakow
STAINED GLASS
Some of Kraków’s most iconic
works of art aren’t applied on can-
vas or carved in stone, but com-
posed of light and glass. Thanks to
local luminaries like Wyspiański,
Mehoffer and Żeleński, Kraków is
home to some of the most awe-
inspiring windows in the world,
and we tell you where to find them here:
iyp.me/krakowstainedglass
POPE JOHN PAUL II
Born in nearby Wadowice, Karol Wojtyła studied at
Jagiellonian University and served as the city’s Bishop
before becoming Pope in 1978. Aside from the Vatican,
no city is more associated with the late pope than
Kraków, which remained his spiritual home throughout
his life. IYP takes a look at his life, legacy and some of
the local sites associated with ‘Poland’s Pope’ in Kraków
and the surrounding region:
iyp.me/thepope
February - March 2016 75 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Old Town
GRUNWALD MONUMENT
The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint armies
of Poland and Lithuania against the German-Prussian
Teutonic Knights on July 15, 1410, was one of the largest
battles of Medieval Europe, and is considered one of
the most important military victories in Polish history.
This weighty monument was unveiled in front of an
estimated 160,000 people on the 500th anniversary of the
event in 1910. Unsurprisingly, Antoni Wiwulski’s original
masterpiece was destroyed by the occupying Nazis during
WWII and the copy you see today was made from his
original sketches and models in 1976. At the top on his
horse is Polish King Władysław Jagiełło, his sword pointing
downwards in his right hand. At the front is his cousin
the Lithuanian prince Vytautas (Vitold), who is flanked
on either side by victorious soldiers from the joint army.
The dead man at the front is Urlich von Jungingen, the
Teutonic Order’s Grand Master, who lost his life during the
battle.QD-1, Pl. Matejki.
JAN MATEJKO
Unveiled as recently as November 2013, this monument
pays homage to one of Poland’s greatest painters, and one
of Kraków’s most beloved sons. Famous for his epic and
outsized historical paintings, which have been reproduced
enough to become imprinted within the national psyche,
Matejko’s work can be seen throughout Kraków from
Collegium Novum to the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery
in the Cloth Hall, to the monumental polychrome he did
inside St. Mary’s Basilica in his final years. Educated in
Kraków and later principal of the Academy of Fine Arts,
Matejko also trained an entire generation of great Polish
painters, including Wyspiański, Mehoffer and Malczewski.
This impressive monument, which depicts the artist seated
within a large picture-frame, is the work of Jan Tutaj, and
located beside the Barbican along what was Matejko’s daily
walk from his home to the Fine Arts Academy which now
bears his name on nearby Plac Matejki (also named in his
honour). To learn more about Matejko, visit his home and
museum at ul. Floriańska 41 (D-3, see Museums); die-hards
can also visit his manor house (see Nowa Huta Museums).
QD-2, ul. Basztowa.
76 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Old Town
MUSEUMS
The museums listed here are in the Old Town, while
Kazimierz, Podgórze and Nowa Huta museums are listed in
their respective sections of the guide.
19TH CENTURY POLISH ART GALLERY
This magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall
covers Polish art from in and around the 19th century, and
its major trends of portraiture and epic historical painting.
Comprising four rooms, the collection is refreshingly small,
giving proper attention to each piece, some of which are
enormous and all of which are gorgeously framed. Almost
everything by Jan Matejko here is rightly considered a national
treasure, and the collection also includes works by Jacek
Malczewski, Józef Chełmoński and Stanisław Witkiewicz, as
well as Władysław Podkowiński’s famous ‘Frenzy’ from 1894.
Like a small slice of the Louvre in Kraków, but without the
crowds, one of the perks of a visit is access to the magnificent
balcony overlooking the market square. Recommended.
QC-3, Cloth Hall, Rynek Główny 3, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 00,
mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 14/8zł,
family ticket 26zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with
valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y
ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
Though it may still seem a bit out-dated and underwhelming
to some visitors, particularly in comparison to the city’s other
(mostly excellent) museums, Kraków’s Archaeology Museum
has improved. In addition to the famous Zbruch Idol, regional
Stone Age artefacts and a charming room dedicated to local
clothing from 70,000 BC to the 14th century, the museum
houses a permanent collection of artefacts from ancient
Egypt including some beautiful shrouds, a number of
intricately decorated sarcophagi and some mummified
cats; the latter exhibition is best enjoyed with the aid of an
audio guide (5zł). Housed in an old monastery, the biggest
highlight of the Archaeology Museum may be its beautiful
garden (1zł charge if you aren’t visiting the museum) - a great
place to relax with fantastic views of Wawel in the distance.
QB-4, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 71 00, www.
ma.krakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00,
Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 9/6zł, Sun free
for permanent exhibitions. Y N
THE CLOTH HALL
The iconic showpiece at the centre of the market
square, the origins and development of Kraków’s Cloth
Hall can be traced as those of the city itself. Proof of a
structure at this site dates back to the mid-13
th
century.
When King Kazimierz the Great approved construction
of a purpose-built trading hall in the mid-14
th
century,
Kraków’s importance as an east-west trading post
vastly increased and the city thrived. Though the
name ‘Sukiennice’ literally refers to textiles and fabrics,
Kraków’s Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities
bought and sold in its merchant stalls including wax,
spices, leather and silk, as well as lead and salt from
the nearby Wieliczka mines. After a fire in the mid-16
th

century, the Sukiennice was given a Renaissance facelift
by Jan Maria Padovano, making it the most magnificent
building in all of Kraków. By the mid-1870s, however,
Poland had been partitioned for nearly a century and
the Cloth Hall was in a rather sorry state; the Austrians
tore down many of the outbuildings, and oversaw the
addition of the neo-Gothic colonnades and outside
arcades by Tomasz Pryliński, a student of Jan Matejko.
The interior was converted into a series of wooden
stalls and in 1879 the first Polish National Museum was
established on the upper floor, making the Cloth Hall
the focus of a huge upsurge of Polish patriotism.
The 20
th
century saw much of the 19
th
century
interior replaced, but by the start of the 21
st
century,
it was again in need of attention in order to meet
the standards of a modern museum or commercial
area. From 2006 to 2010, the interiors were given a
complete modernisation and the 19
th
Century Polish
Art Gallery was reopened on the upper floor. The
building’s sloped attics were converted into lovely
terraces on the east side, where Cafe Szał now offers
great views overlooking the market square and St.
Mary’s Basilica. Opened in 2010, the subterranean
Rynek Underground Museum details the historical
development of the area around the market square,
and the historical 1910 Noworolski Cafe on the
ground floor boasts Art Nouveau motifs by Jozef
Mehoffer. A stroll through the tourist stalls in the Cloth
Hall’s central thoroughfare is essential, after which you
can claim that you’ve been in world’s oldest shopping
mall.QC-3, Rynek Główny 1/3, mnk.pl.
© Stanisław Kłosin
February - March 2016 77 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Old Town
JAGIELLONIAN UNIVERSITY
COLLEGIUM MAIUS
Jagiellonian University’s oldest building (and one of
the oldest in Kraków), Collegium Maius was built as
the university’s main campus in the late 14th century,
36 years after the university’s founding. A century
later it was redesigned as the late-Gothic structure
surrounding the picturesque arcaded courtyard that has
survived to this day. While professors lived and worked
upstairs, it was in the ground floor lecture halls that
Nicolaus Copernicus made doodles in the margins of his
notebooks in the 1490s. Today a museum, visitors can
explore the interiors and exhibits on their own or reserve
a place on one of the daily guided tours for the same
price. A full hour-long tour in English is given Mon-Fri
at 13:00 (16/12zł), while more basic 30-minute tours in
English depart every 20 minutes (12/6zł); it is suggested,
however, that you call or visit in advance to reserve
yourself a place on any of the tours. Inside you’ll visit the
lecture halls, common rooms, professors’ quarters, library
and treasury, seeing some fabulous interiors, paintings,
furniture, medieval scientific instruments, rectors’ maces
and other university memorabilia along the way, as well
as the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas.
There is also a separate interactive exhibit about
mathematics entitled Everything...is a Number (open
09:00 - 13:30; closed Sun. Admission 7/5zł). Another
highlight of visiting is the courtyard clock, from which
wooden historical figures appear and parade past to
music from the mid-16th century every two hours
between 09:00 and 15:00. The building’s courtyard also
houses a gift shop and cafe, and don’t miss the peaceful
Professors’ Garden just next door (accessible via a
beautiful painted passageway).QB-3, ul. Jagiellońska
15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13 07, www.maius.uj.edu.pl.
Open 10:00 - 14:20, Tue 10:00 - 15:20. Closed Sun.
Admission 12/6zł for permanent exhibit, 16/12zł for
entire museum. Admission free for self-guided tours
on Tuesdays from 14:00 - 15:20. N
ARCHDIOCESAN MUSEUM OF CARDINAL
KAROL WOJTYŁA
John Paul II lived here - twice. Once as Karol Wojtyła, the
young priest with a penchant for skiing (his Head skis are
on show), and later as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms.
The Archdiocesan doubles as a small but well-presented
showcase of beautiful sacral art, some dating back to the
13th century. Among the items on display, you will find
presents to His Holiness from heads-of-state. All very nice,
but the exhibition will only hold the attention of true papal
enthusiasts, and visitors can expect to be tailed by over-
zealous curators. Guided tours available for individuals and
groups up to 25 people in French, English and Polish. A
second branch of this museum - the Wojtyła Apartment
at ul. Tyniecka 10 (H-4) - shows the apartment where the
future pope lived with his father in the late 1930s (open
Wed, Sat and Sun only 10:00 - 14:00, free admission).QC-5,
ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421 89 63, www.
muzeumkra.diecezja.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł, family ticket
12zł. Guided tours 60zł. Y N
BISHOP ERAZM CIOŁEK PALACE
Reopened after a 2015 renovation, this early 14th century
palace holds three permanent exhibitions: Kraków At
Your Fingertips, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to 18th
Centuries, and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic.
The first is a depository of local architectural sculpture
fragments, while the latter two consist almost entirely
of sacral art from before the idea of ‘art’ was applied to
non-religious subject matter (how many centuries did
that take?). Most of it came directly out of Kraków’s
own churches or others in the region, and is admittedly
superb, if that’s your thing. If it’s not, it’s a bit of a snooze-
fest.QC-5, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 20,
mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and
students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free;
Sun free. U
CELESTAT
This rather bonkers branch of the Kraków History Museum,
located in a small park near the bus station, has finally re-
opened. The permanent exhibit presents the history of
the uniquely Cracovian ‘Fowler Brotherhood’ - essentially a
male-only cult of hunters and marksmen who wear strange
hats, worship a silver chicken and have their very own king.
In existence since the end of the 13th century, the history
of the Brotherhood and their role in the defence of the
city is laid out courtesy of a series of oil paintings, guns,
teapots, photographs and other relics, while inside the
Sharpshooters’ Hall you’ll see the object of their adoration
- a mystical silver chicken from the 16th century. There’s
plenty of fodder for a parody here, and the cock jokes
literally write themselves; we’ll just say that despite being
well-presented, we left wondering why we had visited
sober on a nice day.QE-2, ul. Lubicz 16, tel. (+48) 12 429
37 91, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. Admission 8/6zł, family ticket 16zł. Y
78 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Old Town
EUROPEUM CENTRE FOR EUROPEAN CULTURE
Located in a 17th century granary on formerly-forgotten
Sikorski Square, this branch of the National Museum was
opened in 2013 and houses the city’s large collection of
European painting and sculpture, in addition to hosting
lectures, concerts and other events. Displaying Lorenzo
Lotto’s 1507 The Adoration of the Infant Jesus - the
consensus ‘most-valuable foreign work’ in the possession of
Kraków’s National Museum, other highlights include John
the Baptist Preaching by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, The
Crucifixion by Paolo Veneziano, and more early Renaissance
Italian paintings. While we’re happy to see this collection
find a permanent home, those who have seen their share of
European art museums can probably justify skipping it.QA-3,
Pl. Sikorskiego 6, tel. (+48) 12 433 57 60, mnk.pl. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
9/5zł; family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26
(with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free. Y
GALLERY OF ANCIENT ART
This small branch of the National Museum is also a satellite
of the Czartoryski Museum across the street, and brings
together three unique collections of ancient art amassed
abroad during the 19th and 20th centuries by the Czartoryski
family, the Potocki family of Krzeszowice and the Kraków
National Museum. On display are artefacts primarily from
ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome dating from between 3000
BC to the 7th century AD, with highlights including marble
sculptures, Egyptian sarcophagi and animal mummies. It’s
amazing that these items found their way to Kraków and
they provide an interesting look at the material culture of
the ancient world, but are hardly required viewing for those
without a special interest in antiquity.QC-2, ul. Pijarska 8,
tel. (+48) 12 370 54 60, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/5zł, familly ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and
students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free;
Sunday free for permanent exhibitions. Y
HIPOLIT HOUSE
The Hipolits were a merchant family who lived in this
fine building around the end of the 16th and beginning
of the 17th centuries, though the building dates back
considerably further than that. The inside has been
transformed into a series of recreations of typical Polish
bourgeois living spaces from the 17th to early 20th century,
and is interesting for the insights it gives into how the
other half lived as well as being a showcase for some truly
remarkable furniture and antiques. Worth a visit.QC-3, Pl.
Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl. Open
09:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/7zł,
family ticket 18zł. Wed free. Y N
HISTORY MUSEUM
Established in 1899, Kraków’s History Museum - also known
as Krzystofory Palace - has been undergoing an extensive
transformation over the last several years, including the
renovation of the 17th century Baroque building that houses
it, the complete digitisation of the museum collection,
FORMER GESTAPO CELLS
Consisting of two separate exhibits, Ulica Pomorska offers
the most chilling museum experience in Kraków (which is
saying something). Located in the Dom Śląski, or ‘Silesian
House,’ this infamous building became the Kraków
headquarters of the Gestapo during WWII, who converted
its cellars into detention cells for the interrogation and
torture of political prisoners. These cells have been
preserved and are free and open to the public as the
‘Former Gestapo Cells’ - immediately to your right as you
enter the courtyard. Though the attendant will encourage
you to enter straight away, we recommend you begin
with the building’s main exhibit ‘People of Krakow in
Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956,’ entered via a staircase in
the corner of the courtyard. This ambitious and excellent
exhibit takes visitors chronologically through the city’s
not-so-distant past, illustrating the terror and tyranny of
both the Nazi and Stalinist regimes in Kraków through an
abundance of documents, photographs, audio recordings
and other archival materials. From the first victims
executed by the Nazis to the communist show trials of the
mid-50s, the stories of individual citizens and their varying
experiences and reactions to both regimes is revealed in
vivid and sometimes distressing detail.
While the broad, more traditional museum presentation
of this history is affecting enough, the immediacy of
the Gestapo cells is truly haunting. An unimaginable
600 inscriptions scratched into the walls by prisoners
awaiting their fate remain intact and provide a shocking,
sobering and undeniable account of the suffering of
hundreds of Cracovians during Nazi occupation. As you
might expect, there are no fairy-tale endings here, so
prepare yourself for the blunt force trauma of human
tragedy. A worthwhile and memorable experience,
reserve at least 90 minutes for visiting. Ulica Pomorska
is a 20min walk from the market square, near the tram
stop ‘Plac Inwalidów.’QH-1, ul. Pomorska 2, tel. (+48)
12 633 14 14, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Thu
12:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
7/5zł, family ticket 14zł, Tue free. Admission to
Former Gestapo Cells is free. Y
February - March 2016 79 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Old Town
and the preparation of a new
ambitious permanent exhibit.
The first part of the future
permanent exhibit, titled
Cyberteka. Kraków - Time
& Space, is now open and
chronicles the spatial and
urban development of the city
from its earliest beginnings
until about 1915, via spiffy
multimedia displays and 3D
films. During the holidays the
History Museum also hosts its
most popular annual exhibit
- the display of Cracovian
Christmas Cribs (or ‘szopki’). One of Krakow’s most
unique and cherished Christmas traditions, these strange
amalgamations of a gaudy gingerbread house, dollhouse
and nativity scene (or something like that) will be on display
until February 28th; the exhibit has its own opening hours
(09:00 - 18:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 19:00), and requires a separate
ticket (9/6zł; Mon 3zł; family ticket 18zł). Krzystofory Palace
is also home to a large museum shop with lots of souvenirs,
posters, books and other information available.QC-3, Rynek
Główny 35, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 30, www.mhk.pl. Open
10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, family ticket
24zł. Wed-Sun free admission to Christmas Cribs with
regular ticket. Y
HISTORY OF PHOTOGRAPHY MUSEUM
Allegedly Poland’s only museum dedicated exclusively
to photography, this modest museum tracks the
development of the art form over several cupboard-size
rooms, including changing photographic exhibitions,
an old darkroom, heaps of ancient cameras and a nice
collection of historical images of Kraków. There’s plenty
here to fascinate shutterbugs, but if your primary camera
is also your phone, you may not deem it worth the journey.
QH-1, ul. Józefitów 16, tel. (+48) 12 634 59 32, www.
mhf.krakow.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 -
15:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 8/5zł, Sun free. Y
JAN MATEJKO HOUSE
Jan Matejko was Poland’s greatest historical painter whose
work and life is honoured in the house where he was
born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s. As well
as some witty imaginings of Kraków medieval life, studies
for gargoyles, and collections of Renaissance furniture and
antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of Matejko’s life is
preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in this relatively small
museum. A fascinating tribute to a genuine Polish master,
and a man of many parts, fans of Matejko should definitely
visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery where many of his
greatest works are displayed.QD-3, ul. Floriańska 41, tel.
(+48) 12 433 59 60, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket 19zł,
kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids
under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent exhibitions. Y
Bronisław Pięcik, MHK
POLISH AVIATION MUSEUM
Located on one of the oldest military airfields in Europe,
this oft-overlooked, but highly regarded museum holds a
premier collection of aircraft, artefacts and exhibits related
not only to Polish, but world aviation history and heritage.
The museum features a new exhibition building bursting
with interactive displays, a cinema, museum shop and
extensive collection of historic aircraft. The original exhibits
in the airfield’s numerous hangars and out-buildings are
stuffed with old photographs, engines, uniforms and
plenty more airplanes, helicopters and gliders, while the
yards surrounding them are literally littered with Russian
fighter jets from the days of the Warsaw Pact. While many
of the displays are in Polish only, this is still a great outing
(Dads love it) that can take the better part of a day to
explore thoroughly. A bit out of the centre in the direction
of Nowa Huta, to get there take tram 52 from ‘Dworzec
Główny’ (the train station) to ‘Muzeum Lotnictwa.’QAl.
Jana Pawła II 39 (Czyżyny), tel. (+48) 12 642 87 00, www.
muzeumlotnictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 14/7zł, Tue free. Y U
THE PLANTY
Once the site of the city’s 13
th
century defensive
fortifications, the moats were filled, the walls razed and
the towers demolished - with the notable exceptions of
the grand Floriańska Gate and impenetrable Barbican -
during Austrian occupation in the first half of the 19
th

century. While today it’s easy to regret the short-sighted
destruction of Kraków’s medieval city walls, we can
thank the Austrians for replacing them with this lovely
strollway of greenery encircling the centre of the Old
Town. Known as the ‘lungs of the city’, the Planty is one
of Kraków’s most unique and charming features - three
kilometres of public parks and gardens filled with trees,
flowers, benches and historic monuments. Walking its
circuit would take over an hour, but represents a great
way to see the city. A popular place for street musicians
to perform, drunks to drink (note that drinking in public
will win you a fine from the police) and teenage couples
to make out, if you haven’t smooched someone on a
park bench in the Planty before leaving town, well then
you haven’t finished your itinerary.QC-4/5.
80 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Old Town
HOME ARMY MUSEUM
This beautifully restored 3-floor red-brick railway building
has been adapted (including a gorgeous glass atrium)
to house the Home Army Museum - documenting the
size, organisation and efforts of Poland’s underground
military resistance from the time of the failed September
campaign of 1939 to the underground armed forces
official disbanding in 1945. The Home Army’s continuing
fight for freedom within the country’s two occupied
zones (Nazi and Soviet) is one of World War II’s less
acknowledged aspects, and though this enormous
museum goes to great length to demonstrate that
Poland’s government, military and civilian population
never surrendered, the sprawling exhibits are confusing
and chaotically organised; as a result you may want to
dish out the 100zł (plus ticket price) for a guided tour.
Nevertheless it’s a must for those interested in WWII
history, and you should reserve at least two hours for
visiting.QJ-1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07
70, www.muzeum-ak.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
13/7zł. Sun free for permanent exhibit. Y U
HUTTEN-CZAPSKI MUSEUM
Located in a 19th century neo-Renaissance palace in the
very centre of Kraków, this branch of the Kraków National
Museum houses a comprehensive collection of Polish
‘numismatics’ - that is, antique Polish coins, banknotes
and medals. The collection of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski,
who once owned the place, also includes old books,
manuscripts, maps and other national memorabilia from
the medieval period to today. As we’ve come to expect,
the displays are gorgeous and additional info (in Polish and
English) about each artefact is conveyed via touchscreen
computers. The palace and gardens themselves have
been stunningly restored (and are guarded by a fantastic
gargoyle out front), but nonetheless this one should
probably be reserved for die hard Polish patriots with
a fascination for coin collecting. Is that you?QA-3, ul.
Piłsudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 40, mnk.pl. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
9/5zł, family ticket 19zł, kids 7-16 and students under
26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sunday free for
permanent exhibitions. Y
JÓZEF MEHOFFER HOUSE
Mehoffer was one of the turn of the 20th century’s artistic
elite, a skilled stained-glass artist collaborating with
Wyspiański on the interiors of numerous Kraków churches,
as well as his own installations across Galicia. This, his
house, was where the artists of the Młoda Polska (Young
Poland) movement often met and is a delight to visit, filled
with elegant furnishings, Art Deco to impressionist-era
art and many sketches, designs and finished stained glass
pieces that attest to his important artistic legacy.QA-2,
ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 80, mnk.pl. Open
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5zł, family ticket
19zł, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł,
kids under 7 free; Sunday free. Y
KRAKÓW STREET ART
Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with
large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known
internationally for their high artistic quality; anyone
who makes the strongly recommended visit to Kraków’s
Poster Gallery (p.119) will easily discover why. With
such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles
would have a penchant for street graphics as well. And
they do. In Kraków, as in other cities around PL, street
art is currently going through a tidal wave of popularity,
and in the last few years new street murals have become
a common sight around Kraków’s city centre. More
restaurants and businesses are turning to street artists to
playfully embellish their public spaces, and city authorities
have even taken the surprising step of sponsoring some
large scale murals around the city centre. In fact, the
emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised
artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in
Kraków’s urban landscape between both sanctioned and
unsanctioned works of ‘graffiti art’ and the prolific gang
signs, slurs and football-related graffiti that city paint
crews have targeted in their war on ‘vandalism.’
At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have
little trouble tracking it down in Kraków, and we’re
making it even easier. On the maps in the back of our
print guide we’ve marked street art locations with a
spray can symbol , so you can literally use them to
give yourself a tour of Kraków’s urban art. Not only that,
but we’ve also put it all online with GPS coordinates at
iyp.me/krakowstreetart so that your smartphone
can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just
that, and check out some of Kraków’s alternative artistic
visions.
February - March 2016 81 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Old Town
MANGGHA
The Manggha Museum of Japanese Art & Technology has
many hats - including performance hall, Japanese cultural
centre, sushi bar and home to local legend Feliks Jasieński’s
fabulous 6,500-piece collection of Japanese artefacts. Located
on the Wisła riverbanks across from Wawel, the original
exceedingly modern building was funded by legendary
Polish film director Andrzej Wajda upon winning the Kyoto
city prize in 1987; July 2015 saw the opening of the adjacent
European - Far East Gallery, which has doubled the space for
temporary exhibits, several of which are on at any given time
(check their website for specifics).QB-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26,
tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03, www.manggha.pl. Open 10:00 -
18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, family ticket 35zł,
children age 7-16 1zł (does not apply to groups), group
ticket 100zł (up to 30 people), Tue free. Guided tours 100zł.
NATIONAL MUSEUM, MAIN BUILDING
Far from being the shoeless peasants many cynical historians
would have us believe, previous generations of Poles have
in fact excelled in the arts, and the National Museum of
Art in Kraków showcases many superb examples of their
work. As well as a number of world-class temporary shows
(for which separate tickets are required, admission varies),
the museum also houses fine collections of Polish applied
arts and weaponry and gives its entire top floor over to the
permanent 20th-century Polish Art exhibition - a truly
awesome collection showcasing the works of such visionaries
as Kantor, Witkacy and Wyspiański (whose epic monument
stands outside the entrance) that any gallery would be
proud to own. Aside from perhaps Wawel, this is the largest
museum in Kraków, so you’d be wise to focus on what you’re
most interested in; to see it all would take the entire day. The
museum also houses a small shop and café.QH-3, Al. 3 Maja
1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission for permanent
exhibits 11/6zł, family ticket 20zł, kids 7-16 and students
under 26 (with valid ID) 1zł, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y
KRAKÓW
NATIONAL MUSEUM
Visitors should note that all branches of the National
Museum are free on Sundays, and students under
26 (with proper ID) pay only 1zł all other days. Also,
ambitious tourists can buy one ticket that is valid for
all branches for six months for only 35/28zł; that’s a
heck of a deal and includes the 19th Century Polish Art
Gallery, Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace, Europeum, Gallery
of Ancient Art, Hutten-Czapski Museum, Jan Matejko
House, Józef Mehoffer House, the National Museum -
Main Building, and the Szołayski House. In addition to
the permanent collections of those museums, below we
list a few temporary exhibits that are currently on view.
UNTIL JULY 3, 2016
FROM JAPAN TO EUROPE.
BEAUTIFUL AND USEFUL OBJECTS.
Feliks “Manggha” Jasieński, Polish art collector and critic,
amassed what was perhaps the largest collection of
Japanese artwork owned by any Pole. Upon his death
in 1929, he bequeathed over 6500 items to the National
Museum in Kraków, a mere fraction of which is currently
on display at the Szołayski House.QB-2, Szołayski
House, Pl. Szczepański 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 50, mnk.
pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 12/9zł, family ticket 20zł, Sun free.
UNTIL APRIL 17, 2016
FASHIONABLE IN COMMUNIST POLAND
Being fashionable in the People’s Republic was not an
easy task. With wide-ranging shortages, empty store
shelves, and higher-quality items available at Pewex
shops only to those who could pay in US dollars,
options were extremely limited - and information
about Western trends could only trickle in here and
there. Despite these difficulties, many women regarded
fashion as a way to defy the ubiquitous greyness of the
regime; see how they did it in this fascinating historical
exhibition.QH-3, National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel.
(+48) 12 433 55 00, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 15/9zł.
82 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Old Town
KAZIMIERZ PUŁASKI
A Polish and American military hero, like his comrade-
in-arms Tadeusz Kościuszko, Kazimierz Pułaski is
immortalised on monuments and place names in both
countries, but especially in America where Casimir
Pulaski Day is actually celebrated as an official bank
holiday in Chicago. Born in 1745 to Polish nobility,
Pułaski was educated in Warsaw and then served the
Polish King in the Duchy of Courland (in present day
Latvia) before the Duchy was occupied by Russia and
the nobility expelled in 1763. As Russia forced the
Polish parliament to pass resolutions weakening the
power of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth in
1767-68, Pułaski helped found the ‘Bar Confederation’
- a military association opposed to the capitulating
home government, and dedicated to defending the
Commonwealth from Russian aggression. Quickly
becoming one of the Confederation’s best commanders,
Pułaski was eventually besieged in Berdyczów
(northern Ukraine today) and after a valiant two-week
defense he was captured by the Russians, but foolishly
set free after pledging not to return to the cause; Pułaski
continued to fight the Russians for four more years in
what is regarded today as the First Polish Uprising.
In 1769, he incited another revolt against the Russians
near Vilnius, and successfully defended the Jasna Góra
monastery in Częstochowa in 1770. The heroic legacy
of the Bar Confederation changed, however, when a
mysterious Pułaski-endorsed kidnapping of the King
resulted in the intervention of Austria and Prussia and
the partitioning of Poland in 1773. The Confederation
was condemned and disbanded and Pułaski fled the
country with a bounty on his head.
Turning up in Paris, Pułaski was recruited by Benjamin
Franklin and LaFayette to take his freedom-fighting
skills to America. During his first engagement in the
Battle of Brandywine, Pułaski led a successful charge
against the British and saved the life of General
George Washington, for which he received the rank
of Brigadier General of the American Cavalry. His
challenging personality and poor command of English
soon forced him to resign the position, but he quickly
formed an independent cavalry corps - the legendary
‘Pulaski Legion.’ Driving the British from Charleston,
South Carolina in February 1779, the Pulaski Legion
soon engaged the enemy in the Siege of Savannah,
Georgia. Here Pułaski was struck in the groin with
grapeshot while leading a courageous charge. Taken
aboard a brigadier vessel, Pułaski died two days later.
Though eyewitnesses claimed he was dishonourably
buried at sea, unknown remains believed to belong
to Pułaski were discovered beneath the Pułaski
monument in Savannah’s Monterey Square. In 2009, US
President Barack Obama posthumously made Pułaski
an ‘Honourary Citizen of the United States’ - only
the seventh person to be so honoured.
PHARMACY MUSEUM
Located inside a wonderful 15th-century building, Kraków’s
brilliant Pharmacy Museum is laid out over five floors and
includes all manner of exhibits from full-scale reproductions
of ancient apothecary shops to some beastly snakes in jars
and, on the top floor, a really good display of traditional
herbal medicines. Also of note is an exhibit dedicated to
the extraordinary and brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who
operated a pharmacy in the Kraków Ghetto during WWII.
Overall, this surprising museum is a lot more interesting
than it sounds.QC-2, ul. Floriańska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421
92 79, www.muzeumfarmacji.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:30,
Tue 12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes
before closing. Admission 9/6zł. N
RYNEK UNDERGROUND
This hi-tech and highly popular museum takes visitors four
metres under the surface of the market square to explore the
recently excavated medieval merchant stalls that predate
today’s Cloth Hall, and to experience the city’s entire history
- from its first settlers right up today over the course of
some 6,000 metres of multimedia exhibits. Because of the
museum’s popularity, and the fact that it is limited to only
300 people at a time, timed tickets should be bought in
advance to avoid long queues or the disappointment of
no ticket availability. This can be done either online or from
the information office confusingly located on the opposite
side of the Cloth Hall from the museum entrance. The actual
museum entrance is located on the side opposite St. Mary’s
Basilica, of course, and once you’ve negotiated the scrum
of getting inside your experience begins with a short film
projected on a wall of smoke, before following the trail of
truly remarkable exhibits displayed in what is essentially an
archaeological site. Relying heavily on touch-screens and
holograms, highlights include a fascinating look into life
before Kraków received its charter and the market square was
laid out, displays on trade and transport in the city, a fantastic
area for kids that includes a performance by automated
puppets, and the remains of an 11th-century cemetery
replete with ‘vampire prevention burials’ (seriously). Visitors
should also reserve time to view the excellent series of short,
subtitled documentaries covering different ages of Krakow’s
history at the end of the tour route. In addition to the
multilingual displays, audio guides are available in English,
German, French, Russian, Italian and Spanish.QC-3, Rynek
Główny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www.mhk.pl. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Every first Tue closed. Last
entrance 75 minutes before closing. Admission 19/16zł,
family ticket 38 zł, Tue free. Audioguide 5zł. Y
February - March 2016 83 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Old Town
EASTER IN KRAKÓW
As a deeply Catholic country, Poland takes its Easter
(Wielkanoc) celebrations very seriously. As such, you
can expect bars and restaurants to be largely empty of
locals or completely closed from Good Friday to Easter
Sunday (March 25-27, 2016); shops are closed on Easter
Sunday and Monday (March 27-28).
Leading up to the holiday you will see traditional
handmade ‘palms’ for sale all over Kraków’s market
square, particularly during the annual Easter Fair
(March 18-28, p.27). Representative of the branches laid
before Jesus during his entrance into Jerusalem, these
elaborately woven folk decorations are made from a
variety of dried flowers and plants, and taken to church
on Palm Sunday (March 20) to be blessed before
decorating homes for the duration of the season.
On Easter Saturday (March 26), Polish families bring
baskets of food to church to have these blessed as well.
These baskets traditionally contain ‘pisanki’ (beautiful
hand-painted eggs), sausage, bread, boiled egg, salt,
horseradish and a ram made out of dough - each of
which has a symbolic meaning, of course. Rezurekcja
(Resurrection), a traditional mass with procession, is
held Saturday night or Easter morning depending on
parish tradition. On Easter Sunday (March 27), families
gather together to feast from their baskets, plus żurek
(Polish rye soup), mazurek (a decoratively iced dessert
pie) and other traditional foods. Each person places a
small piece of the blessed food on their plate before
exchanging wishes with other members of the family.
Although bunny-free, things do take on a more
lighthearted air on Easter Monday (March 28). Known
as ‘Śmingus Dyngus,’ the day is dominated by public
water fights and everyone is given carte blanche to
drench anyone they see with water, so be on your
guard. Although it’s never pleasant to have a jug of
water thrown over your head, this is an improvement
over the past when young people were beaten with
sticks; apparently either will bring you luck. Easter
Monday is also the day of Kraków’s traditional Emaus
fair in Salwator (p.26), and Tuesday (March 29) marks
the annual Rękawka Festival in Podgórze (p.26).
STAINED GLASS MUSEUM
Located in the premises of S.G. Żeleński’s historic
stained glass studio, this ‘living museum’ offers the truly
unique opportunity of visiting an active stained glass
workshop, where you’ll witness masters at work, learn the
artistic process involved in producing large-scale glass
installations, and see some superb designs and examples
of finished works from throughout the over hundred-year
history of the studio. Known as the ‘cradle of Polish stained
glass art,’ Żeleński opened this studio in 1902 as a place for
the best artists of the Młoda Polska/Art Nouveau era to
meet and work, including such luminaries as Wyspiański,
Mehoffer and Stefan Matejko (nephew of Jan). Many of PL’s
most outstanding examples of stained glass were created
here, and today the studio remains the largest of its kind in
the country. Visiting is only possible with a guide and the
approximately 45-min tour is offered hourly in Polish (at
:30 past the hour) and English (on the hour); stained glass
workshops can also be arranged (in Polish, English, French,
Italian or German; minimum 2 people). The museum now
also includes a cafe and gift shop where you can pick
up beautiful stained glass pieces created on-site in the
workshop. Though more expensive than other museums,
a visit is absolutely worth it for fans of the medium, as well
as Art Nouveau enthusiasts.QH-3, Al. Krasińskiego 23, tel.
(+48) 512 93 79 79, stainedglass.pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Guided tours 32/24zł per person in
English; 25/18zł in Polish. N
SZOŁAYSKI HOUSE
This well-located branch of the National Museum offers
several temporary exhibits at any given time. Presently,
on the ground floor is a small free exhibit that honours
Kraków’s Grand Dame of poetry Wisława Szymborska by
displaying articles collected from her apartment after her
passing in 2012. At the moment, you’ll also find From
Japan to Europe. Beautiful and Convenient Things
(12/9zł, family ticket 20zł, Sun free) upstairs. The Tribecca
cafe on the ground floor is also a great place to recharge
the batteries, and the museum shop offers an array of
artbooks.QB-2, Pl. Szczepański 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54
50, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Y U
TOWN HALL TOWER
After many fires, renovations and uncaring demolitions,
the only element of the 14th century Town Hall remaining
is this 70m-high tower, proudly standing next to the
Cloth Hall. As a museum, it offers little aside from some
medieval costumes, black and white photos, information
about the clock at its top, decent views, and lots of stairs.
With the balconies off limits, you can take some so-so
snaps by leaning out the open windows, but they aren’t
the calendar quality panoramas you might be anticipating.
Overall we’d say a visit here is over-priced, underwhelming,
and completely skippable.QC-3, Rynek Główny 1, tel.
(+48) 12 426 43 34, www.mhk.pl. Closed in Feb, open
from March 1st 10:30 - 17:00. Last entrance 30mins before
closing. Admission 8/6zł, family ticket 16zł. Y N
84 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
View of Wawel Hill and the Wisła River | Marcin Mrowka, Dollar Photo Club
The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top
of the hill of the same name immediately south of the
Old Town (B-5), is by far the most important collection
of buildings in Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope,
self-rule and not least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers
a uniquely Polish version of the British Buckingham Palace
and Westminster Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous
assortment of predominantly Romanesque, Renaissance
and Gothic architecture dating from around the 14th
century onwards, Wawel is the crown jewel of Kraków’s
architectural treasures and required visiting for Poles and
foreigners alike.
Even for those who know or care little about the
country’s past, Poland’s ancient seat of royalty contains
a vast wealth of treasures inside its heavily fortified
walls that can’t fail to inspire. Made up of the Castle
and the Cathedral, of which the former contains most,
but by no means all of the exhibitions, Wawel’s must-
see highlights include the Cathedral’s mind-boggling
interior, a tantalising glimpse of Poland’s very own
crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury and, weather
permitting, a leisurely stroll around its courtyards and
gardens. After the April 2010 Smolensk disaster, Wawel’s
Royal Crypts became the final resting place of President
Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria; their tombs are open
to the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which
is hard work but comes with its own rewards, can take
an entire day.
CASTLE
Wawel’s prominence as a centre of political power predates the
building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD. Evidence
shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified castle
before Poland’s first ruler, Mieszko I (circa 962-992) chose Wawel
as one of his official residences. The first Polish king crowned in
Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Władysław the Short (1306-
1333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would
see a further 35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th
century. All of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all
of them added their own architectural details to the building.
The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Poland’s
subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle fall
into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used it as a
military hospital and even went so far as to demolish several
buildings including a number of churches on the site. The 20th
century saw the Castle change hands on a number of occasions,
with the huge ongoing renovation works that continue to
this day being halted for a number of reasons, most famously
when the Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi
Governor General, Hans Frank, during the German occupation
of WWII. Today’s Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles
including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and
Baroque. The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is
a true architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained
within do much to contribute to Kraków’s rightful status as a
truly world-class city.QB-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 22 422 51
55 ext.219, www.wawel.krakow.pl.
Wawel
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Wawel
STATE ROOMS & ROYAL PRIVATE APARTMENTS
Two collections in one, of which the latter is only accessible
on a specially conducted guided tour, these are the rooms
in which the royals once lived and did their entertaining.
The spectacular State Rooms seemingly go on forever
(reserve about 40mins for visiting), and are full of luscious oil
paintings, intricate 16th-century Flemish tapestries, some
truly extraordinary wallpaper and the breathtaking Bird
Room. Highlights include the eerie Deputies Hall, complete
with 30 wooden representations of former Kraków residents’
heads on the coffered ceiling and an original throne that
really brings the majesty of Poland’s past to life. The Royal
Private Apartments, meanwhile, are equally stunning.
Packed with delightful Gothic and Renaissance details, your
40-60min guided tour will include the wonderful Guest
Bedroom, complete with original Renaissance larch wood
ceiling, and the charmingly named Hen’s Foot - two small
rooms inside the 14th-century Belvedere Tower, which
offer great views.QOpen 09:30 - 16:00; Sun 10:00 - 16:00
(State Rooms only); closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour
before closing. Note that the State Rooms will be closed
for conservation works Feb. 29 - March 21; Royal
Apartments closed Feb. 22 - March 7. Admission to State
Rooms 16/9zł (free Sun). Royal Apartments 21/16zł.
CROWN TREASURY & ARMOURY
Containing Poland’s very own equivalent of the Crown
Jewels among its many wonders, the Crown Treasury &
Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the world of
the sumptuous, extravagant and brutally violent. To the left,
the Crown Treasury features several glass cases of golden
and bejewelled goblets, platters, coins and other marvels,
of which Szczerbiec - the country’s original coronation
sword - is the ultimate highlight. To the right the Armoury
contains a wealth of weaponry including some exceedingly
swanky crossbows and a frightening array of spiky pikes,
while the cellar holds a collection of cannons and replicas
of the banners captured at the Battle of Grunwald.QOpen
09:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Last entrance 1 hour
before closing. Admission 16/9zł. Check ticket office for
ticket availability.
LOST WAWEL
This smartly conceived and executed exhibit presents
the remaining fragments of medieval Wawel, including
remnants of the Rotunda of the Virgin Mary (Kraków’s first
church). A computer generated model of Wawel gives
visitors a peek into the early 10th century construction.
QOpen 09:30 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Note that the exhibit
will closed Feb 8 for conservation works. Admission 8/5zł,
Sun free. Check ticket office for ticket availability.
ORIENTAL ART
This exhibit in the western wing of the castle comprises art
from the Near East which was highly prized and fashionable
amongst the Polish nobility as it entered the kingdom via
military and trade contact with Turkey, Iran, the Caucasus
and Crimea. Visitors will see unique collections of Chinese
ceramic and Japanese porcelain, but the part of the exhibit
that makes it essential are the trophies, banners, weapons
and other artefacts captured during King Jan Sobieski
III’s famous victory over the Turkish army at Vienna in
1683, including Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha
Para’s sabre.QVisiting is possible Tues-Sat at 11:00 and
14:00 only. Note that exhibit is closed Feb. 8 - 22 for
conservation works. Admission 7/4zł.
WAWEL VISITOR CENTRE
Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are
timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To
guarantee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand
in long queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve
tickets for the exhibition you want to see at least one
day before you visit. Tickets should be collected at
the Wawel Visitor Centre Reservation Office at least
30mins before the reserved tour time. All exhibits are
self-guided except for the Royal Apartments, however
foreign language guides can be arranged at extra cost
if done in advance. In addition to ticket sales and pick-
up, the Visitor Centre is also the place to get more info
about various theme tours on offer, pick up free maps
or make use of the small post office, gift shop, cafe/
restaurant and toilets.QB-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12
422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow.pl. Open
09:00 - 17:00. From March open 09:00 - 18:00.
The Senator’s Hall Photo by Anna Stankiewicz
The Renaissance courtyard at Wawel.
86 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Wawel
CATHEDRAL
The scene of the crowning of almost every Polish king and
queen throughout history, the current Wawel Cathedral
is the third to be built on the site. The first cathedral
was built of wood, probably around 1020, but certainly
after the founding of the Bishopric of Kraków in 1000AD.
Destroyed by fire it was replaced by a second cathedral
that subsequently burnt down again. The current building
was consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders of
Poland’s first king to be crowned at Wawel, Władysław the
Short (aka. Władysław the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who
was crowned among the charred rubble of its predecessor
in 1319. Considered the most important single building
in Poland, Wawel’s extraordinary Cathedral contains much
that is original, although many glorious additions have
been made over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning
as that of its cousin St. Mary’s on the Rynek, the interior
of Wawel Cathedral more than makes up for its visual
shortcomings thanks to the sheer amount of history
packed inside. At its centre is the imposing tomb of the
former Bishop of Kraków, St. Stanisław (1030-1079), a
suitably grand monument dedicated to the controversial
cleric after whom the Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18
chapels, all of them about as ostentatious as you’re ever
likely to see, of particular interest is the 15th-century
Chapel of the Holy Cross, found to the right as you enter
and featuring some wonderful Russian murals as well as
Veit Stoss’ 1492 marble sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. The
Royal Crypts offer a cold and atmospheric diversion
as the final resting place of kings and statesmen - most
recently former president Lech Kaczyński - while at the
top of a gruelling wooden series of staircases is the vast,
12.6 tonne Sigismund Bell - so loud it can supposedly
be heard 30km away.QB-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429
33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00,
Sun 12:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing.
CATHEDRAL TICKETS
The Cathedral and the Castle have different ticket
offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can be purchased
only in the ticket office directly opposite the Cathedral
entrance. While entrance to the actual cathedral itself
is free you will need a ticket to enter the adjoining
Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower. A single
ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral Museum.
Audioguides are recommended to make the most
of the experience, and can be rented here for 7/5zł
(in Polish, English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish,
Czech, French and Hungarian).QB-5, Wawel Hill,
tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.katedra-wawelska.
pl. Open 09:00 - 15:30, Sun 12:30 - 15:30. Tickets
covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal Crypts and
Sigismund Bell cost 12/7zł. Note that the Cathedral
Museum is closed Sun, but your ticket is valid to
visit another day.
LADY WITH AN ERMINE
Kraków’s prized art piece is
this Leonardo Da Vinci canvas
- one of only three Da Vinci oil
paintings in the world, and a
sentimental favourite of Poles,
reproduced and hung in many
a home. Leonardo’s Lady has a
chequered history; when she
isn’t entertaining she always
seems to be on the run or in
hiding somewhere. For centuries she was off the map
completely, before having a rendezvous with Prince
Adam Czartoryski during his Italian holiday in 1800.
Gentleman that he was, he brought her home to
his native Poland, where she was part of the family
until escaping to Paris in 1830 during the Warsaw
Insurrection. The Lady later returned to Poland in
1876 moving into what would become her official
address in Kraków’s Czartoryski Museum, only to
be captured by the Nazis and moved to Berlin. In
1946 the Americans rescued her and returned her
to Kraków where she is today one of the city’s most
beloved treasures.
Leonardo’s Lady will be on display at Wawel until its
proper home in the Czartoryski Museum is reopened
after renovation. Exhibited on its own alongside in
depth information about its complicated history
and authenticity, the priceless painting requires a
separate admission ticket and absolutely shouldn’t
be missed.QOpen 09:30 - 16:00; Sun 10:00 -
16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 10/8zł, Sun free (but ticket still
required).
Wawel Cathedral
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Wawel
ROYAL CRYPTS
While all Poland’s pre-16th kings were buried beneath or
within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral
today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I
had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault.
He joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in
the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of
nine more Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their
children thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and
kingdom itself ), the honour was extended to statesmen
with Prince Józef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kościuszko
(1818), poets Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Słowacki
(1923), Józef Piłsudski (1935) and General Władysław Sikorski
(1993) all securing themselves a place here. Most recently -
in April of 2010 - the late President Lech Kaczyński and his
wife Maria were controversially interred here after the tragedy
in Smoleńsk; admission to their tomb (and that of Piłsudski)
is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral into the
remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th century
St. Leonard’s Crypt - the best Romanesque interior in PL; the
exit deposits you back outside.QB-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12
429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00,
Sun 12:30 - 16:00. Last entrance 30mins before closing.
CATHEDRAL MUSEUM
Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtyła just before he became Pope
John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum features a wealth
of religious and secular items dating from the 13th century
onwards, all related to the ups and downs of the Cathedral
next door. Among its most valuable possessions is the sword
deliberately snapped into three pieces at the funeral of the
Calvinist king, Zygmunt August (1548-1572) - the last of the
Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as all manner of coronation robes
and royal insignias to boot.QB-5, Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429
33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. Last entrance 30mins before closing.
SIGISMUND BELL
Follow the crowds up many gruelling flights of stairs to
reach the infamous Sigismund Bell - a resounding symbol
of Polish nationalism ala Philadelphia’s Liberty Bell. The
largest of five bells hanging in the same tower, Sigismund’s
Bell weighs in at an astounding 12.6 total tonnes (9650 kgs
just for the bell itself ), measures 241cm in height, 242cm
in diametre and varies from 7 to 21cm thick. The bronze
beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of King Sigismund I
and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanislav and St. Sigismund
as well as the coat of arms of Poland and Lithuania. Rung
to this day on religious and national holidays, as well as
significant moments in history (like the funeral of late
President Lech Kaczyński and his wife) the bell’s peal can
be heard 30km (186 miles) away and is quite an enterprise
to ring, requiring twelve bell-tollers who are actually lifted
from the ground by the bell’s force. The entrance is within
the Cathedral and tickets (good for the Royal Crypts as well)
are purchased at the ticket office across from the Cathedral
entrance.QB-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.
katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 -
16:00. Last entrance 30mins before closing.
THE WAWEL DRAGON
Standing on the Wisła riverbank in the shade of Wawel
Castle (B-6) is a rather ugly likeness of the Wawel
Dragon (Smok Wawelski), who - according to local
legend - once reposed in the large cave behind him
when not out and about in town scarfing up virgins
and sheep. Finally vanquished when he was tricked
into eating a bag of sulphur, this monument in his
honour was unveiled in 1972 to a design by the local
artist Bronisław Chromy. Extremely popular with the
kids you’ll find climbing all over it, the monument
actually breathes fire at random intervals about every
5-10mins. To witness this spectacle, just be patient and
don’t look down his throat.
Outside the entrance of Wawel Cathedral (B-5), you
may also notice an odd collection of massive bones
chained up on the left outside the entrance. While
legend obviously purports these to be the bones of
Wawel’s fearsome dragon, more conventional wisdom
has claimed they might be parts belonging to a blue
whale, woolly mammoth, rhinoceros, or all three. At
any rate, they haven’t been removed and inspected
for centuries due to their magical properties, which
are credited with protecting the city from destruction
during centuries of Polish partition and particularly
during WWII when almost every other major city in
Poland got pancaked.
88 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Kazimierz
Kazimierz - the district south of the Old Town between the
Wisła River and ul. Dietla (where a tributary of the Wisła
once flowed) - was the centre of Jewish life in Kraków for
over 500 years, before it was systematically destroyed
during World War II. Neglected during the communist
era, Kazimierz became one of Kraków’s dodgiest districts
before its rediscovery in the 1990s, thanks to the fall of the
regime and worldwide exposure through the lens of Steven
Spielberg. Kazimierz has since been on the rebound and is
today arguably Kraków’s most exciting district - a bustling,
bohemian neighbourhood packed with historical sites,
atmospheric cafes and art galleries. Traces of Kazimierz’s
Jewish history have not only survived, but literally abound in
the form of numerous synagogues and Jewish cemeteries.
In fact, no other place in Europe conveys a sense of pre-war
Jewish culture better than Kazimierz. As a result, the district
has become a major tourist draw and could almost be
considered a pilgrimage site for Jews, which has led to the
return of contemporary Jewish culture to the area in recent
decades. Each summer since 1988 the massively popular
Jewish Culture Festival fills Kazimierz’s streets and cafes with
music, while educating Kraków’s residents and guests about
the city’s pre-war Jewish history and celebrating modern
Jewish culture. The fact that it’s one of the year’s biggest
parties proves that there’s more to Kazimierz than sepia
photographs and old synagogues. Here you’ll find the heart
of Krakow’s artistic, bohemian character behind the wooden
shutters of dozens of antique shops and art galleries, and
in the obscure courtyard cafes and shadowy bars centered
around the former Jewish square known today as Plac
Nowy. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities, Kazimierz
is an essential point of interest to any visitor.
USEFUL CONTACTS
JEWISH COMMUNITY
The Jewish Community of Kraków is over 700 years old
and currently has around 140 members tasked with
maintaining Kraków’s Jewish culture, religious sites, and
organising community events and gatherings. Shabbat
services currently take place every Friday in Kupa
Synagogue (ul. Warszauera 8, D/E-6); however, after the
completion of renovations at the Remuh Synagogue
(expected sometime in Feb-March), services will begin
taking place there (ul. Szeroka 40, E-6).QD-6, ul.
Miodowa 27, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11, www.krakow.
jewish.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE
The headquarters of Kraków’s strengthening Jewish
community. JCC organises numerous events (check
their website or FB for details), exhibits and tours. Walk-
ins are always welcome, but if you want to participate
in a Shabbat dinner you need to contact them a few
days in advance.QD-6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12
370 57 70, www.jcckrakow.org. Open 10:00 - 20:30,
Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat.
JUDAICA FOUNDATION
This civic and cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits
reflecting Jewish life past and present, and includes a cafe.
QD-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, www.
judaica.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Mural at Plac Bawól 3 in Kazimierz, dedicated to the Bosakóws- a Jewish family which occupied the building for over 400 years.
February - March 2016 89 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Kazimierz
recognisable to many as the backdrop of dramatic scenes
from Spielberg’s Schindler’s List. Along the way you’ll pass
the Judaica Foundation at ul. Meiselsa 17 and arguably
Kraków’s best beer garden (Mleczarnia) if you’re here
during the warm season.
While on your Jewish culture crawl of Kazimierz do
also put aside time to visit the Temple Synagogue (ul.
Miodowa 24, D-6), Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwór
18, E-6) and New Jewish Cemetery (ul. Miodowa 55, E-6)
- all of which are nearby and essential points of interest.
Kazimierz is not exclusively Jewish, however, with several
noteworthy Catholic churches moored in the district. The
most noteworthy is Skałka (ul. Skałeczna, C-7), where
Stanisław, the Bishop of Szczepanów, was murdered and
then quartered at the whim of King Bolesław the Bold; a
blood-splattered stone can allegedly be seen beside the
altar. Stanisław went on in death to become the patron
saint of Poland, and Skałka is also the final resting place
of local heroes Czesław Miłosz and Stanisław Wyspiański.
Kazimierz is also home to some of Kraków’s most popular
museums; both the City Engineering Museum (ul. Św.
Wawrzyńca 15, E-7) and Ethnographic Museum (Plac
Wolnica 1, D-7) are good choices for taking the kids and
keeping them entertained.
WHAT TO SEE
Intimate and perfectly walkable, to get a feel for the
area start your tour of Kazimierz at the top of ulica
Szeroka, coming from ulica Miodowa (E-6). More
a square than an actual street, Szeroka conveys the
sense of a medieval marketplace; indeed it was here
that Kazimierz’s first Jewish merchants settled, and
the square is bookended by two of the city’s most
important synagogues - the Old Synagogue and the
Remuh Synagogue, whose historic cemetery extends
to ul. Miodowa and ul. Jakuba. Ul. Szeroka 6 (now the
Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant) formerly housed the
Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse that gained notoriety
in 1567 when the wooden floor collapsed and ten
women drowned. Nearby beneath a ring of maples
at the street’s northern end is a memorial and “Place
of meditation upon the martyrdom of 65,000 Polish
citizens of Jewish nationality from Cracow.” Today
ul. Szeroka’s picturesque cobbled lanes are primarily
lined with businesses and restaurants tastefully aimed
at tourists like Rubinstein (ul. Szeroka 14) - so named
because the ‘Queen of Cosmetics’ was born next door
at number 14, and Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (‘Once
Upon a Time in Kazimierz,’ ul. Szeroka 1), with its row of
faux Jewish shop fronts; next door you’ll find Jarden (ul.
Szeroka 2), the area’s first Jewish bookstore.
Taking a right onto ulica Józefa just past the Old
Synagogue, you’ll find the High Synagogue at number
38, so called because the prayer room was located on
the first floor. Today it houses the Austeria bookshop
(see Shopping) and a small exhibition space with
rotating historical exhibits about the history of Poland’s
Jewish population. Along this block of ul. Józefa you
can easily spot indentations left by mezuzahs, and a
Hebrew inscription on the building next door to the High
Synagogue. Make a right onto ul. Kupa (literally ‘Poop
Street’ in English, at least that’s the PG version) to visit
the Isaac Synagogue (ul. Kupa 18, E-6), whose restored
interiors now house a permanent exhibition titled ‘In
Memory of Polish Jews’ and a small shop selling kosher
food. In 1939 a member of the synagogue committee
was executed inside these halls after refusing to set fire
to it.At the end of ul. Kupa at ul. Warszauera 8 (D-6) is the
17
th
century Kupa Synagogue, whose northern wall was
flush with the medieval Kazimierz defensive walls, which
can still be seen from the ul. Miodowa side. It’s there at
Miodowa 27 that you’ll find the entrance, and today the
restored synagogue is regularly used for religious services
by the Jewish Community.
A short walk down ul. Warszauera leads you to Plac
Nowy (D-6), formerly known as ‘Plac Żydowski’ (Jewish
Square) and still today the district’s bustling epicentre, lined
with bars, cafes and street food stalls. To continue your tour
head west out of the square down ul. Meiselsa (D-6) to
find what many regard as Kraków’s most picturesque
passageway on your left, which should be immediately
Old Jewish shopfronts at ul. Szeroka 1.
Temple Synagogue photo by Artur Turyna, wawel.net
90 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Kazimierz
CHURCHES
CORPUS CHRISTI CHURCH
This massive brick beauty from the 14th century takes up
two entire blocks in Kazimierz, making it one of the city’s
largest holy sites. A three-naver in the Gothic style, the
pulpit features a golden boat (with oars and a mast even)
being held aloft by two mermaids. And though there are
few things we like more than mermaids, the crowning
glory has to be the towering golden altarpiece. According
to legend, a robber who had stolen a precious relic from
another church repented on this spot, abandoning
the reliquary. The priests in pursuit saw a strange light
emanating from the ground and discovering their sacred
prize, founded a church here in recognition of the miracle.
QD/E-6/7, ul. Bożego Ciała 26, www.bozecialo.net.
Open 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 19:00. No visiting during
mass please.
SKAŁKA & THE PAULINE MONASTERY
This gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most
important religious sites in Kraków, with a fair share of
history. In 1079, King Bolesław the Bold accused the bishop
of Kraków, Stanisław Szczepański, of treason. According to
legend, the bishop was beheaded with the sword seen
next to the altar and then his body was chopped into
pieces on a tree stump. After the murder, the royal family
fell under a curse. To appease the spirit of the wronged
bishop, the family built this church and made regular
pilgrimages here to atone for the murder. Szczepański was
canonised in 1253. The Skałka crypt is packed tight with
important Poles including composer Karol Szymanowski,
writer Czesław Miłosz and painters Stanisław Wyspiański
and Jacek Malczewski.QC-7, West end of ul. Skałeczna,
tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44, www.skalka.paulini.pl. Open
09:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass
please.
HISTORY
The history of Kazimierz can be traced back to 1335
when it was officially founded on an island outside
of Kraków by King Kazimierz the Great. It was not
until 1495 when Jews began to be expelled from
Kraków that they started to move over the river to
Kazimierz en masse. Awarded its Magdeburg Rights,
which allowed markets to be held on what is now
Pl. Wolnica, Kazimierz prospered and became one
of the most influential Polish towns during the
Middle Ages. By the 17
th
century Jewish life was
flourishing and numerous synagogues had been
constructed when the plague hit in 1651. Four years
later Kazimierz was ransacked by Swedish invaders,
famine, floods and anti-Jewish riots followed in quick
succession, and a mass migration to Warsaw began,
leaving the once vibrant Kazimierz a shadow of its
former self.
In 1796 Kraków came under Austrian control, and
four years later Kazimierz was incorporated into its
neighbouring city. Ironically this would bring about
the area’s rebirth as the Austrians worked hard to
redevelop the city: the streets were cobbled, the
crumbling defensive walls were torn down, the first
gas lamps were illuminated in 1857, and the suburb
had a power station by 1905. The governing Austrians
also ordered all of Kraków’s Jews to resettle in
Kazimierz, and a rich cultural life arose around them;
by 1910 the Jewish population stood at 32,000, a
figure that was to nearly double during the inter-war
years. This, as we know, would come to a dramatic
end with the Nazi occupation of Kraków and Hitler’s
systematic extermination of the Jews of Europe.
Herded across the river to a ghetto in Podgórze,
Kraków’s Jews met their end there, in Płaszów, or
Bełżec (primarily). A mere 3-5,000 survived the
Holocaust, a large proportion of them saved by Oskar
Schindler.
Although 5,000 Jews were registered as living
in Kraków in 1950 any hopes of rekindling the
past soon vanished. The anti-Zionist policies of
the post-war communist authorities sparked
waves of emigration to Israel, and by the 1970s
signs of Jewish life had all but disappeared and
the area had become a bandit suburb. The fall of
communism in 1989 sparked new hope, however;
investment began trickling in, 1988 saw the first
Jewish Festival take place, and five years later the
Judaica Foundation was opened. That was also
the year Spielberg arrived to film Schindler’s List, a
film that would put Kazimierz on the world map
and irrevocably change its fortunes. Today a visit to
Kazimierz ranks just as high on itineraries as a trip
to Wawel, illustrating the historical importance and
public regard the area possesses.
February - March 2016 91 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Kazimierz
PLAC WOLNICA
Perhaps Kraków’s most forgotten square, it’s hard
to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once equal in size
and stature to Kraków’s Rynek Główny. When laid out
as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek Kazimierski)
upon the town’s establishment in 1335, this space
measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter on each
side than Rynek Główny) making it the second largest
market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was here
that all the administrative and judicial authorities of
Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of
market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco
to salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace
it once was, today’s Plac Wolnica (named so since
the end of the 18
th
century when it was granted the
privilege of free trade) covers only a small fragment of
the square’s original size. However, the Town Hall has
managed to survive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierz’s
incorporation into Kraków in 1802, the Town Hall was
taken over by local Jewish authorities who renovated
it into its present neo-Renaissance style in the late 19
th

century. Since WWII it has housed the recommended
Ethnographic Museum. Ironically, it has been the
once more predominantly Jewish neighbourhoods
around Plac Nowy that have keyed Kazimierz’s revival
over the last decade as Plac Wolnica has become
more synonymous with parking, pigeons and drunken
derelicts. That is all beginning to change however, with
more cafés and restaurants opening around its edges
and a new pedestrian bridge connecting Kazimierz
with Podgórze over the river to the south.QD-7.
Ethnographic Museum
Inside the Ethnographic Museum Photo by Marcin Wąsik
MUSEUMS
CITY ENGINEERING MUSEUM
This charming museum inside an old tram depot actually
features five separate permanent exhibitions, plus temporary
exhibits. The first two permanent exhibits deal with the
history of public transport in Kraków and the development
of the Polish automotive industry through a hangar full of
old tram cars and trolleys and a large collection of unique
wheeled vehicles, the third explores the history of printing in
Kraków from the 15th to 20th centuries, the fourth is a look at
engineering feats in the city, while ‘Around the Circle’ teaches
kids fundamental scientific principles via 30 hands-on play
stations. More fun than it sounds and recommended for
families, the science exhibit will hold kids’ interest long enough
for Dad to look at cars, while Mom dreams of escaping on that
motorbike.QE-7, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 12
42, www.mimk.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 29zł. Y U N
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
Founded in 1911 by the teacher and folklore enthusiast
Seweryn Udziela (1857-1937) and located inside Kazimierz’s
former Town Hall, this cultural highlight often gets overlooked
by tourists, but offers wonderful and charming insight into
Polish folk culture and rural traditions, including beautiful
recreations of 19th-century peasant interiors, folk costumes
and instruments, extraordinary examples of local nativity
cribs (‘szopki’). The permanent exhibition is currently going
through a transition, half of which has been completed, with
new exhibits called ‘Od-nowa’ (Anew) - focussed on rural
rituals of spring in Poland (painted Easter eggs and palms),
and ‘Unattainable Earth’ - which guides visitors through
hundreds of works of folk art via the words of Czesław Miłosz
(taken from his poem of the same name). With exhibits
sufficiently explained in English, those that visit here will be
happily rewarded. A separate gallery for changing exhibits
can also be found nearby at ul. Krakowska 46.QD-7, Pl.
Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 60 23, www.etnomuzeum.eu.
Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 13/7zł, Sun
free for permanent exhibitions. Y U N
GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM
The brainchild of late award-winning photo-journalist
Chris Schwarz, the permanent exhibit is comprised of
hundreds of photographs aimed at keeping the memory
of Jewish life in southern Poland and western Ukraine alive
in the aftermath of the Holocaust. The images of forgotten
cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death camps prove
haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to be an essential
part of any Kazimierz tour. The converted warehouse also
houses small temporary exhibits, a café, information point
and a large bookstore selling a large range of titles of
Jewish interest.QE-6, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68
42, www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 15/10zł, family ticket 30zł, children under
7 free. Guided tours (available in English and French)
for groups of over 10: 13.50/8zł per person; individual
guided tours: 60zł/30-45mins, 100zł/60mins. Y U
92 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Kazimierz
SYNAGOGUES

& JEWISH CEMETERIES
HIGH SYNAGOGUE
The third oldest synagogue in Kraków, the High Synagogue
was completed in 1563, and is unique for having its
prayer room upstairs; it’s widely theorised that this was
a safety precaution to protect the congregation from
unfriendly neighbours. The design didn’t save it from being
the subject of arson during WWII sadly, and today no
furnishings remain. The upstairs prayer room has retained
some original details, however, including the Holy Ark, two
golden griffins have survived above the Aron Kodesh, and
some of the murals have been restored. The size of the
high-ceilinged room and quality of those details that do
remain indicate that this was a magnificent space before its
destruction. Today admission is paid to go upstairs to the
prayer room, where visitors will also see a small temporary
museum exhibit. On the ground floor is a large bookstore
with books of Jewish interest in a variety of languages.
QE-6, ul. Jozefa 38, tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Admission to upstairs exhibit 9/6zł, children
under 10 free.
ISAAC SYNAGOGUE
The Isaac Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque
style, was opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from a
wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. The design is decoratively
endowed with arabesques and arches, yet retains a sober
linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not least
the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer Gurary
runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to provide
information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher food,
sweets, Jewish calendars and other items, and around the
back you’ll find Szalom Falafel - Kraków’s only kosher fast food
restaurant (ul. Jakuba 21, open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00;
closed Sat). Klezmer concerts take place here Thu & Sun at
18:00 starting from March (60/40zł).QE-6, ul. Kupa 18, tel.
(+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.pl. Open 08:30 -
18:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat. Admission 7/4zł.
KUPA SYNAGOGUE
This rather unfortunately-named synagogue was founded
in 1643, using funds from the local kahal/qahal (mi-kupat
ha-kahal) - the autonomous Jewish government - which
we’re told explains where the name ‘Kupa’ comes from, but
doesn’t change the fact that it translates to ‘poop’ in Polish
(oh well). Designed in the Baroque style with a square
prayer room, the synagogue shared a wall with the original
Kazimierz city defensive walls, which can be seen from ul.
Miodowa. Undergoing several renovations and expansions
over the centuries, the synagogue was connected to the
adjacent building in the 19th century and meticulously
restored in 2000. The richly decorated interior features
paintings of Biblical scenes and holy places done by an
unknown artist in the 1920s.QD/E-6, ul. Warszauera 8
(entrance from Miodowa), tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11, www.
krakow.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 -
14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/3zł.
PLAC NOWY
While Kraków’s main square, Rynek Główny, makes all the
postcards and photographs, it is Plac Nowy in Kazimierz
that has emerged as the spiritual centre of Kraków
subculture. Lacking the splendour of the Old Town, Plac
Nowy is, if anything, something of an eyesore - a collection
of unkempt buildings surrounding a concrete square filled
with chipped green market stalls and rat-like pigeons
flapping about. If you want something completely
different from the Old Town, however, here it is.
Incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th
century, Plac Nowy (New Square) didn’t really begin
assuming its shape until the early 19th century, with its
central landmark, the Okrąglak (rotunda), added as late
as 1900. For generations this square was referred to by
locals as Plac Żydowski (Jewish Square); not only was it
the primary marketplace of the Jewish quarter, but the
rotunda served as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right
up until Nazi occupation. Today butcher shops still occupy
the interior, but the real activity is outside where hungry
locals of every ilk line-up in front of hole-in-the-wall food
hatches to enjoy the best ‘zapiekanki’in Poland. Essentially
a French bread pizza with the toppings of your choice,
visiting Kraków without eating a Plac Nowy zapiekanka
would be like visiting Dublin without having a Guinness.
Merchant stalls surround the rotunda, and you’ll find
something happening here daily from 7:00 in the
morning until early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets
and random rubbish are constant guarantees but weekly
highlights include junk/antique sale Saturdays, Sunday’s
clothing market, and Friday morning’s bewildering
small critter expo/pigeon fair. A photo essay waiting to
happen, arrive early to the latter to learn the answer to
the riddle, ‘How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?’
As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a
new guise: Kraków’s premier pub crawl circuit. Full
of shambolic charm, veteran boozers Singer and
Alchemia put Plac Nowy on the nightlife map, and
remain two of the square’s best bets for candlelit, pre-
war mystique, while down the road (ul. Meiselsa) dark
and arty Mleczarnia boasts the city’s best beer garden.
In recent years the bars on offer have begun to diversify,
but the fact of the matter remains that this bohemian
outpost is Kraków’s most interesting and exciting
nightlife destination.QD-6.
February - March 2016 93 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Kazimierz
TEMPLE SYNAGOGUE
Kazimierz’s newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with
several later expansions, the most recent of which was in
1924. Under Nazi occupation the building was used as a
warehouse and stables, yet survived the war and regular
services were even held here until 1968, before stopping
completely a decade later. Since restoration, the gilded
woodwork within now plays host to many concerts and
occasional religious ceremonies, particularly during the
annual Jewish Festival of Culture.QD-6, ul. Miodowa 24,
tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 -
14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 10/5zł.
NEW JEWISH CEMETERY
This enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and was
the burial ground for many of Kraków’s distinguished Jews
in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Its story takes on a
darker aspect with the decimation of the Jewish population
between 1939 and 1945. Many of the tombstones are
actually no more than memorials to entire families that were
killed in the Holocaust, which now lie in overgrown clusters.
The rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not fully penetrated the
walls of the New Cemetery, but there are many newly-lit
candles burning over the headstones.QE-5, ul. Miodowa
55. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat.
OLD SYNAGOGUE
Built on the cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, the Old
Synagogue serves as the oldest surviving example of Jewish
religious architecture in Poland and is home to a fine series
of exhibits that showcase the history and traditions of Polish
Judaism. It is no longer a working synagogue. The English
explanations assume no great depth of knowledge on
the reader’s part and are therefore a perfect primer on the
subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands the bimah
enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade. There are
also changing temporary exhibitions, and the bookshop sells
a fine selection of works related to Jewish Kraków in a number
of languages.QE-6, ul. Szeroka 24, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62,
www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00- 16:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, Fri
10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 10/8zł, family ticket 20zł, Mon free. Y
REMUH SYNAGOGUE & CEMETERY
The smallest but soon-to-be most active synagogue in
Kazimierz, dating from 1553. Current restoration works are
expected to be complete sometime in Feb-March, after
which Shabbat services will take place here each Friday;
until then groups need to make an appointment to visit, but
individuals are free to enter during opening hours and stroll
through the cemetery, which was in use until 1800. This
holy burial ground was spared by the vandalism of the Nazis
because many of the gravestones had been buried to avoid
desecration during the 19th century occupation of Kraków by
Austrian forces. Most famous is the tomb of the 16th century
Rabbi Moses Isserles, better known as the Remuh. Beside him
lies his wife, Golda Auerbach, in the cemetery’s oldest tomb.
QE-6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11. Open 09:00 -
16:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5zł.
Inside the Temple Synagogue photo by Grzegorz Ziemianski
The Old Synagogue kilhan / Dollar Photo Club
94 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Newly-renovated Rynek Podgórski and St. Joseph’s Church. | Photo by Maja Drząszcz
When Spielberg came to Kraków to produce his award-
winning film Schindler’s List, the result was a fast and
far-reaching revitalisation of Kazimierz, Kraków’s former
Jewish district. Ironically, however, it didn’t reach across
the river to Podgórze, despite the fact most of the film’s
historic events took place there, as did much of the filming.
As Kazimierz became super-saturated with tourists and
bars, predictions were that Podgórze would emerge as
Kraków’s next hip bohemian district; however aside from
a small stable of rogue cafes, things were slow to develop
and for a long time getting off the beaten path in Kraków
was as easy as crossing the river to Podgórze. Since the
opening of Schindler’s Factory as a major attraction and
the construction of the Bernatek footbridge (E-7) creating
a direct artery of tourist traffic into the district, that has
begun to change, but Podgórze remains Kraków’s most
mysterious and underappreciated neighbourhood.
A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and
unusual attractions, the first signs of settlement in
Podgórze date from over ten thousand years ago,
though the Swedish invasion in the 17th century saw
much of Podgórze levelled. Awarded the rights of
a free city in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor Joseph II,
the town was eventually incorporated as Kraków’s
fourth district in 1915, and the following decades saw
its aggressive development; quarries and brickworks
were constructed, and a string of military forts added,
of which Fort Benedict (K-5) is the only still standing.
An indication of Podgórze’s age is Krakus Mound (K-
5), excavations of which have dated it to the Iron Age.
However, the trespasses of more recent history are what
people most associate with the district.
On March 21, 1941, the entire Jewish population residing in
Kazimierz were marched across the Sileisan Uprisings Bridge
and crammed into what was to become known as the
Podgórze Ghetto. Traces of the Ghetto still exist, including a
prominent stretch of the wall on ul. Lwowska (K-4). Liquidated
on March 14, 1943, the majority of the Ghetto’s residents were
murdered there, while others met death in the nearby Liban
quarry (J/K-5) and Płaszów concentration camp, or in
the gas chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau and Bełżec. The
opening of the Schindler’s Factory Museum has, in addition
to helping the city bury the ghosts of the Holocaust, finally
endorsed Podgórze’s status as a bona fide tourist destination.
With plenty to see and do, you could easily spend an entire day
exploring Podgórze and a walk up into the hills of Krzemionki
behind old Podgórze is not only a great way to get ‘off the
beaten path’ - it’s also Kraków’s most evocative area.
CHURCHES
ST. JOSEPH’S
Presiding over the heart of historic Podgórze on the south
side of the district’s main square, this unmissable neo-gothic
juggernaut was built between 1905-09 on the design of
Jan Sas-Zubrzycki. Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower,
elaborate masonry dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of
saints, St. Joseph’s slender, yet imposing brick facade rates
among the most beautiful in Kraków and is gorgeously
illuminated at night. The interior is no less beautiful and visitors
should also note the abandoned 1832 belfry that stands on
a rocky outcropping behind the church - all that remains of
the original temple, dismantled due to design flaws.QJ-5, ul.
Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12 656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja.
pl. Open 30mins before mass and by prior arrangement.
Podgórze
February - March 2016 95 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Podgórze
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
Opened in 2011, Krakow’s Museum of Contemporary Art
(MOCAK) does not disappoint, capably holding its own with
comparable international art institutions. Tucked behind
Schindler’s Factory, the building alone will impress with it’s
avant-garde styling and ultra-modern layout. The museum
boasts a large and fine permanent collection of modern
art highlighting both Polish and international artists, plus
several provocative temporary exhibitions that are ever-
changing (see our Events section for more info), and a large
cafe. Despite the relatively late closing hour, make sure to
leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy all the museum has
to offer.QK-4, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.
mocak.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł, Tue free. Guided
tours (80zł) in English and German available, but must be
arranged by phone in advance. Y U
PHARMACY UNDER THE EAGLE
When the Nazis created the Jewish ghetto in Podgórze in
1941, this pharmacy on Pl. Bohaterów Getta and its Polish
owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at the very
heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and his staff were
the only Poles allowed to live and work in the ghetto and
over the two years of the ghetto’s existence, Apteka Pod
Orłem became an important centre of social life as well as
aid in acquiring food and medicine, falsified documents and
avoiding deportations. Pankiewicz (recognised today as one
of the ‘Righteous Among the Nations’) and his staff risked
their lives in many clandestine operations while bearing
witness to tragedy through the windows of the pharmacy
as the ghetto and its 15,000 inhabitants were ultimately
‘liquidated.’ Today the building is a branch of the Kraków
Historical Museum, recreated to look as it did during Nazi
MUSEUMS
CRICOTEKA
Tadeusz Kantor (1915-1990) was an avant-garde artist,
theatre director, set designer and a major figure in 20th
theatre reform, known for his revolutionary theatre
productions. In 1980 he created ‘Cricoteka’ as a ‘living
archive’ to document the achievements of himself
and his theatre company Cricot 2. In 2014, Cricoteka
opened its new headquarters here on the site of the
former Podgórze power station, with the aim of better
presenting his work and its impact on modern art and
theatre. The building itself is an apparent homage to
his experimental approach, literally hovering above the
existing buildings with a bizarre facade of rusted metal
and black mirror. Combined with the original buildings,
the multifunctional site hosts an exhibition space, archive,
theatre hall and bookshop; as a result, a large amount
of its programme involves happenings, performances,
workshops and other live events (check their website
for those). As a museum, it’s difficult to recommend
to those who aren’t already familiar with Kantor, or
fans of alienating, experimental theatre. Temporary
exhibits show art apparently inspired by Kantor’s ideas,
while the permanent exhibit shows the evolution of
Kantor’s increasingly eccentric career via stage props
he created (including lots of creepy mannequins) and
video footage. Free tablets with English-language info
are available for visitors at the ticket desk. Whether it all
resonates is purely a matter of personal taste, as public
opinion is notably divided.QJ-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 2,
tel. (+48) 12 442 77 70, www.news.cricoteka.pl. Open
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5zł, family
ticket 15zł. Y
LIPOWA 3 GLASS & CERAMICS CENTRE
Located directly across from MOCAK, this building has been
a glassworks since 1931 and actually flourished during
the PRL-era when up to 500 people were employed here
under the auspices of not only glass bottle production
but also glass art, scientific research and industrial design.
During the 1970s ‘Cracovian glass’ achieved international
renown for its bold experimentation with form, colour
and texture, and today Lipowa 3 is still used for national
glass research and production. The idea of an educational
museum showcasing Polish glass and glassblowing
technology has actually existed since 1972, and recent
investment has now made those collections open to the
public. The permanent exhibit includes bilingual displays
of historical glass tools and antique glassware, but the
highlight is the impressive ‘Cracovian Glass Art Collection’
of contemporary coloured glassware produced here
between 1931 and 1998. Live demonstrations of glass-
blowing have unfortunately been suspended for winter.
The ground floor includes a shop and a free gallery for
rotating exhibits of contemporary glass art.QK-4, ul.
Lipowa 3, tel. (+48) 12 423 67 90, www.lipowa3.
pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00; closed Sun.
Admission 8/6zł.
Photo by Rafał Sosin
96 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Podgórze
occupation, which through traditional and multimedia
displays, and extensive testimonials from both Poles and
Jews, heartrendingly describes life in the Kraków Ghetto.
Information is displayed inside the chests and cupboards
of the pharmacy, and visitors are encouraged to handle
dozens of replica artefacts and reprinted photographs,
heightening the reality of the events described and creating
a very intimate visiting experience. Though comprising only
5 rooms, set aside at least an hour for visiting this excellent
museum.QJ-4, Pl. Bohaterów Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656
56 25, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 -
14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Note
that it is closed on the second Tuesday of every month.
Admission 10/8zł, family ticket 20zł, Mon free. Y
SCHINDLER’S FACTORY
After years of preparation, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled
Goods Factory (to give it its full name) re-opened to the
public as a world-class museum in 2010. The story of
Oskar Schindler and his employees is one which has been
well-known since Steven Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List
(which was shot almost entirely in Kraków) brought it to
audiences across the world in 1993, and while that story
is now covered in detail on the original site where many
events took place, the museum casts the city of Kraków
in the main role of its permanent exhibition titled, ‘Kraków
During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945.’ Individual histories of
Kraków’s wartime inhabitants guide visitors through the
exhibit which covers the war of 1939, everyday life under
occupation, the fate of the Jews, the city’s underground
resistance and more, using vast archival documents, photos,
radio and film recordings, period artefacts and dynamic
multimedia installations. Other exhibits change regularly,
while a separate section of the original factory is reserved
for film screenings, lectures and other events. A must-visit,
Schindler’s Factory is one of the most fascinating museums
in the entire country and we recommend you reserve at
least two hours if you want to see everything. To get there
take a tram to Pl. Bohaterów Getta (J-4) and it’s a 5-10
minute walk down ul. Kącik, under the train overpass, onto
ul. Lipowa and you’re there.QK-4, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48)
12 257 10 17, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon
10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 1.5 hours before closing.
Admission 21/16zł, family ticket 50zł. Groups of over 15
people must book in advance and visit with a guide (20zł
per person). Mon free for permanent exhibitions. Y
KRAKUS MOUND
The oldest structure in Kraków, Krakus Mound (Kopiec
Krakusa) is one of two prehistoric monumental mounds in
the city and is also its highest point, providing incredible
panoramic views from its worn summit. 16m high, 60m
wide at the base and 8m wide at the top, Krak’s Mound
has received some much-needed attention lately with
gravel now spread over what was formerly a very muddy
trail winding up to a bald peak. The site of pagan rituals
for centuries, the mound retains an ancient, evocative
atmosphere amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of
Krzemionki, the green rolling fields of Płaszów, the grim
Liban quarry and the Podgórze cemetery. With incredible
views of the city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one
of Kraków’s least explored and most captivating areas and
should be visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding
detour from the beaten path. It can be approached most
easily from the ‘Powstańców Wielopolskich’ tram stop via
ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod Kopcem (K-5), or
by following ul. Dembowskiego (J-5) to the pedestrian
bridge over al. Powstańców Wielopolskich to the base of
the mound.
The result of great human effort and innovative
engineering, Krakus Mound has long been a source
of legend and mystery. Connected with the legend of
Kraków’s mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound
is said to have been constructed in honour of his death
when noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with
sand and dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an
artificial mountain that would rule over the rest of the
landscape. In the interwar period, extensive archaeological
studies were undertaken to try to date the mound and
verify if Krak was indeed buried beneath it. Though much
about the ingenuity of the mound’s prehistoric engineers
was revealed, no trace of a grave was found; a bronze
belt from the 8
th
century was unearthed and there is
general agreement today that the mound was created
by a Slavonic colony sometime between the latter half of
the 7
th
century and the early 10
th
century, though other
hypotheses credit it to the Celts. Originally four smaller
mounds surrounded the base of Krak’s mound, however
these were levelled in the mid-19
th
century during the
construction of the city’s first fortress which surrounded
the area with a wall embankment and a moat (later levelled
in 1954). The legend of Krak’s mound inspired the modern
creation of burial mounds for Kościuszko and Piłsudski and
today it remains one of Poland’s greatest archaeological
mysteries.QK-5, above ul. Maryewskiego.
© fotopolska.eu
February - March 2016 97 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Podgórze
PLACES OF INTEREST
FORT BENEDICT
The only surviving fortress of three that were built in
Podgórze in the mid-19th century to protect the Vistula
River and the road to Lwów, Fort Benedict is one of
only a few citadels of the ‘Maximillion Tower’ type left
anywhere. An impressive two-storey brick artillery
tower in the shape of a sixteen-sided polygon with
a round interior yard, the fort has a total surface area
of 1500 square metres. Atop the Krzemionki cliffs on
Lasota Hill, it takes its name from nearby St. Benedict’s
church. The fortress quickly lost its usefulness in the
1890s and has since been used as Austrian military
barracks and was even converted into apartments in
the 1950s, though today it lies in general dereliction,
filled with abandoned furniture and building materials.
After numerous projects involving the fort failed
to develop, care of Fort Benedict has recently been
transferred back to the city of Kraków, with plans for
its renovation awaiting approval. At the moment,
however, it remains impenetrable to tourists, adding
to the scenery and mystique of one of Kraków’s most
surprising and strange corners.QK-5, Lasota Hill.
PLAC BOHATERÓW GETTA
First plotted out in 1836, this public square just across
the river from the Powstańców Śląskich bridge has had
a turbulent history, with turns as a marketplace, horse
stable, execution site, taxi rank and bus terminal over
the years. During the time of the Kraków Ghetto it was
at once the source of the residents’ greatest relief and
also the scene of their greatest horrors and humiliation.
As the ghetto’s largest open space, Plac Zgody was
a place for people to socialise, relax and escape the
oppressive overcrowding of the tenements. It was also
the site of families being torn apart, mass deportations
to the death camps, beatings and executions. Following
deportations and the final liquidation of the ghetto, Plac
Zgody was strewn with furniture, clothes, luggage and
other belongings that the victims had been forced to
abandon - this image would later inspire the redesign of
the square. Though after the war the name of Plac Zgody
was changed to Plac Bohaterów Getta (Ghetto Heroes
Square) and a small monument was erected, the space’s
historical significance never felt more pertinent than its
post-war use as a public toilet or parking lot. Finally, after
decades of neglect, Plac Bohaterów Getta was renovated
in 2005, sparking significant controversy over the
design. Nonetheless, today it is perhaps the most iconic
place in Podgórze. Laid out with 70 large well-spaced
metal chairs meant to symbolise departure, as well as
subsequent absence, the entire square has essentially
been turned into an evocative memorial to the victims
of the Kraków Ghetto. A place for candles and reflection
was also added within the small, former bus terminal
building at the north end of the square, however it still
goes sadly ignored (see if you can do something about
that).QJ-4.
LIBAN QUARRY
One of the creepiest, most forgotten places in Kraków,
the Liban Quarry should first and foremost be a place of
remembrance for the victims of the Nazi labour camp
that operated here during WWII. That said, the site -
which largely lies in overgrown abandon today - offers
adventurous visitors some intriguing opportunities for
exploration, photography, and personal reflection. Left to
slowly evolve into a nature sanctuary for local waterfowl,
pheasants, birds of prey and various other creatures,
the quarry’s towering limestone cliffs, ponds and dense
vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting refinery
equipment, fence posts, gravestones and tangles of barbed
wire that can still be found amongst the brush here.
The Jewish limestone company ‘Liban and Ehrenpreis’
established a quarry here in 1873, and by the end of the
19
th
century a complex of buildings had been established
inside and a railway line had been laid. During Nazi
occupation, however, Liban was seized and set-up as
a cruel penal camp where 800 Poles were forced to
perform grueling slave labour from 1942 to 1944. A small,
discreet and easily overlooked memorial for 21 inmates
executed during the liquidation of the camp lies beside
the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site.
In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all
the scenes from Schindler’s List that take place in the
Płaszów concentration camp. During filming 34
barracks and watchtowers were set-up around the
quarry, and though most of the set was subsequently
removed, some traces remain confusingly mixed with
the genuine historical leftovers from the war, making
it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel as
you walk amongst the many gallows-like fence posts
strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly,
the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved
with Jewish headstones; we can put you at ease by
assuring you it is not genuine. An incredibly evocative,
yet peaceful and beautiful site, enter the quarry at
your own risk by following a trail from Krakus Mound
toward Podgórze Cemetery along the rim of and into
the quarry, or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though
there is nothing unlawful about being in the quarry,
city employees of the Housing Office buildings at the
quarry’s entrance have been known to deny entry or
ask people to leave.QJ/K-5, ul. Za Torem.
98 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Jewish Ghetto
facing ‘Aryan’ Podgórze were bricked or boarded up to
prevent contact with the outside world and a 3 metre
high wall was erected around the confines of the ghetto,
crowned with arches conscientiously designed to resemble
Jewish tombstones. Four guarded entrance gates accessed
the ghetto - the main gate from Rynek Podgórski on
ul. Limanowskiego (J-4), another on the east end of ul.
Limanowskiego near its intersection with ul. Rękawka and
ul. Lwowska (K-4), a third close by at the intersection of
ul. Lwowska and ul. Józefińska (K-4), and another at Plac
Zgody (today known as Plac Bohaterów Getta, J-4). A tram
initially ran through the ghetto, and though it made no
stops, food and other valuable commodities frequently
found their way into the ghetto via its windows.
Many Jewish institutions were transferred into the ghetto,
and several non-Jewish businesses continued to operate,
most notably Tadeusz Pankiewicz’s Pharmacy Under the
Eagle on Plac Zgody (J-4). Many Jews also worked outside
the ghetto, particularly in the Zabłocie industrial district,
which included Oskar Schindler’s enamelware factory
at ul. Lipowa 4 (K-4).
DEPORTATIONS
Following an October 15
th
, 1941 decree requiring all Jews
of the Kraków region - not just the city centre - to move
to the Podgórze Ghetto, a further 6,000 Jews from villages
around Małopolska entered the ghetto, making conditions
unbearable. To alleviate the distress Nazi authorities happily
announced that they would begin deportations, and 1000
people - mostly elderly and unemployed -were loaded into
cattle cars and sent to Kielce, where they were expected to
find aid from local Jewish authorities. Not knowing what
else to do, many of them actually returned clandestinely to
their families in the Kraków Ghetto.
Following the Wannsee Conference in January 1942,
the Nazis began to initiate ‘The Final Solution’ - Hitler’s
systematic plan for the annihilation of European Jewry.
May 29
th
1942 was the first of ten days of terror within the
Kraków Ghetto as it was surrounded by Nazi troops and all
documents were inspected. Those who couldn’t produce
proper work permits were assembled on Plac Zgody
before being transferred to Płaszów rail station, loaded
into cattle cars in groups of 120, and sent to Bełżec death
camp in eastern PL. Unsatisfied by the initial numbers, the
Germans continued their arbitrary round-ups for days.
One June 6
th
all previous documents were declared invalid
and ghetto occupants were required to apply for a new
‘Blauschein’ or Blue Pass; those that were denied likewise
met their deaths in Bełżec, including popular poet and
songwriter Mordechai Gebirtig and renowned painter
Abraham Neuman. By the end of the action, 7,000 Jews
had been sent to their deaths, and many more simply shot
in the streets. [The June deportations were one of the best
documented of such actions, however photos from the
events are still commonly misidentified as being taken
during the ghetto’s liquidation in March 1943.] Two weeks
later the area of the ghetto was reduced almost by half
Kraków has always been regarded as the cultural centre
of Poland, and before World War II it was likewise an
important cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews -
one quarter of the city’s total population - who enjoyed the
city’s relatively tolerant climate. Persecution of the Jewish
community began almost immediately following German
occupation in early September 1939, however. Despite an
increasing series of regulations restricting the civil rights
and personal freedom of Jews, more and more were
arriving in Kraków from the rest of PL in the hope of finding
safety amidst the city’s dense community. In October 1939,
the Nazis registered 68,482 Jews in Kraków.
Conditions continued to worsen, however, and in April 1940,
Hans Frank - Nazi commander of the ‘General Government’
(the part of German-occupied PL that was not directly
incorporated into Germany) - ordered the resettlement of
Kraków’s Jews, in keeping with his desire for the capital of
the General Government to be a “Jew-free city.” As a result of
resettlement in late 1940, Kraków’s Jewish population was
reduced to the 16,000 deemed necessary to maintain the
economy at the time, with the 52,000-odd others forcibly
deported, largely to labour camps in the east.
ESTABLISHMENT
On March 3
rd
, 1941 Otto Wächter, Governor of the Kraków
district, decreed the establishment of a new ‘Jewish
Housing District’ on the right bank of the Wisła River in
the district of Podgórze. What would become known as
the ‘Kraków’ or ‘Podgórze Ghetto’ initially comprised an
approximately 20 hectare (50 acre) space of some 320
mostly one- and two-story buildings in Podgórze’s historic
centre bound by the river and the Krzemionki hills to the
north and south, and between the Kraków-Płaszów rail
line and Podgórze’s market square to the east and west. In
the 17 days between the ghetto’s establishment and the
March 20, 1941 resettlement deadline, approximately 3,000
original residents of the district were relocated across the
river to be replaced by some 16,000 Jews, whose property
and possessions were confiscated with the exception
of what they could carry into the ghetto. Thousands of
unregistered Jews also illegally entered the ghetto seeking
protection, bringing the total population of the Kraków
Ghetto to about 18,000.
Overcrowding was an obvious problem with one
apartment allocated for every four families and an average
of two square metres of living space per person. Windows
February - March 2016 99 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Jewish Ghetto
TRACES OF THE GHETTO
GHETTO WALL FRAGMENT
Kraków’s most prominent evidence of its ghetto is this
12-metre stretch of the original ghetto wall. In 1983,
a commemorative plaque was raised, which reads in
Hebrew and Polish: “Here they lived, suffered and died
at the hands of the German torturers. From here they
began their final journey to the death camps.”QK-4, ul.
Lwowska 25-29.
GHETTO WALL FRAGMENT
An even longer and arguably more evocative section of
the original ghetto wall can be seen in the playground
behind the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego
60/62. Those looking to continue their creepy tour of
the area should climb the steep trail leading from the
back of the playground straight up to the Old Podgórze
Cemetery, to the right from which is the abandoned
Fort Benedict.QK-5, ul. Limanowskiego 62.
STARMACH GALLERY
Built between 1879-1881, this unique brick building
was one of four former prayer houses within the area
of the ghetto, the others being located at numbers 6
and 7 on the very same street and nearby at ul. Krakusa
7. Religious practise was outlawed by the Germans
during the war (though it continued in secret) and
the synagogue was converted into a warehouse and
then a factory. When the ghetto was established, many
valuable religious artefacts from Kazimierz synagogues
were transferred here for protection, however the
eventual liquidation of the ghetto guaranteed that they
were looted and lost. After the war the building slowly
fell into dereliction until Andrzej and Teresa Starmach
rescued it in 1996, restoring the facade and turning it
into one of the largest and most renowned private art
galleries in PL. The exhibitions are always outstanding
and a visit is highly recommended.QJ-4, ul. Węgierska
5, tel. (+48) 12 656 43 17, www.starmach.eu. Open
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
to the north side of ul. Limanowskiego and demarcated
by barbed wire. The increased density of the population
and increasing brutality of the Germans set off a wave of
suicides. Though some remained optimistic, worse was to
come. Work was also beginning on the nearby Płaszów
labour camp, which would eventually portend the end of
the Kraków ghetto.
In late August and early September, 12-13,000 Jews (many
originating from Kraków) were also sent to Bełżec as the
ghettos in nearby Słomniki and Wieliczka were liquidated.
Following these brutal events, the correlation between
deportation and death became fully understood perhaps
for the first time in Kraków. In October the Germans
announced that the Kraków ghetto would be consolidated
again and selections began anew, with no regard toward
employment status, age or health. Another 4,500 victims
were sent to their deaths in Bełżec, while some 600 were
shot inside the ghetto. With the liquidation of the ghetto
hospital, orphanage and elderly home, many orphans and
invalids were sent to the newly established Płaszów labour
camp, only to be murdered on arrival. Afterwards the area
east of Plac Zgody ceased to be part of the ghetto, and a
month later the remaining territory was divided into two
sections: Ghetto A was reserved for the healthiest, most
able-bodied residents, and Ghetto B for those less desirable
and destined for deportation. Residents of Ghetto A began
commuting daily to work on the construction of Płaszów
labour camp, and after Amon Goeth arrived in Kraków
as its new Camp Commandant the pace of the camp’s
development hastened the ghetto’s demise.
LIQUIDATION
As soon as enough barracks had been built, Goeth ordered
that the inhabitants of Ghetto A permanently relocate to
Płaszów, and on March 13
th
1943 local SS Commander
Julian Scherner ordered the final liquidation of the
Kraków Ghetto. Carried out in two phases, at least 6,000
Jews (some sources cite up to 8,000) from Ghetto A were
immediately transported to Płaszów; residents of Ghetto
B and all children under 14 were ordered to assemble on
Plac Zgody the next day. Despite likely knowing what lay
in store, many mothers stayed behind when Ghetto A was
liquidated, refusing to abandon their children.
March 14
th
1943 was likely the bloodiest day in Podgórze’s
history. The ghetto - which at that point essentially consisted
of only Plac Zgody and the block of buildings just south of it
- was surrounded by German troops who attempted to herd
its residents to the transports leaving from the square. Chaos
reigned and those who resisted or attempted to escape
were shot. Over 1,000 people were killed in the streets
(some estimates are as high as 2,000) and the 3,000 that left
via cattle car went almost directly to the gas chambers in
Auschwitz. After this final deportation, the Germans cleaned
their mess, looting the houses, stripping the luggage strewn
everywhere of anything valuable, and taking down all the
barbed wire. The Kraków Ghetto disappeared leaving
almost as little trace as the Jews who lived there.
The outline of the former ghetto
can be seen on our map, page 136.
100 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Photo by Vereonique Mergeau | flickr
The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the
huge Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct
antithesis of everything cuddly Kraków is. Gargoyles and
tourists? Not here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta
is one of only two entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities
ever built (the other being Magnitogorsk in Russia’s Ural
Mountains), and one of the finest examples of deliberate
social engineering in the world.
Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed
up a huge swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the
ancient village of Kościelniki (as well as parts of Mogiła
and Krzesławice) in an attempt to create an in-your-face
proletarian opponent to intellectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale
Kraków. The decision to build NH was rubber stamped on
May 17, 1947 and over the next few years construction of
a model city for 100,000 people sprung up at breakneck
speed. Built to impress, Nowa Huta featured wide, tree-
lined avenues, parks, lakes and the officially sanctioned
architectural style of the time - Socialist Realism. Nowa
Huta’s architects strove to construct the ideal city, with
ironic inspiration coming from the neighbourhood
blocks built in 1920s New York (that despicable western
metropolis). Careful planning was key, and the suburb
was designed with ‘efficient mutual control’ in mind: wide
streets would prevent the spread of fire and the profusion
of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while the
layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a
fortress if it came under attack.
Work on the first block of flats began on June 23, 1949,
and it was a massive task, with volunteer workers flocking
from across Poland to take part in this bold project. Feats of
personal sacrifice were rife and encouraged with one man,
Piotr Ożański, publicly credited with laying an stupendous
33,000 bricks in one single day. For the workers life was
tough; many were still sleeping in tents when the first
winter arrived, legends abound of bodies buried in the
foundations, and crime was rampant.
Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was
Nowa Huta was never fully realised. A fearsome town hall
in the style of the renaissance halls found across Poland
was never built, nor was the theatre building across from
it and the ornamental architectural details planned for the
monumental buildings of Plac Centralny were never added.
However what was completed is very much worth the trip
for intrepid tourists willing to teleport themselves into a
completely different reality far from the cobbled kitsch of
Kraków; it’s as easy as a tramride.
Scale model of original urban plan for Plac Centralny and Roses
Avenue.
Nowa Huta
February - March 2016 101 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Nowa Huta
WHAT TO SEE
Jump off a tram at the ‘Plac Centralny’ stop, and find
yourself at the very nucleus of Nowa Huta. From 1973 to
1989 an enormous monument of Vladimir Lenin towered
over the citizens of Nowa Huta at the north end of Plac
Centralny. Dismantling it after the fall of communism in
Poland was an important act of symbolism (cheered by
thousands of spectators), which later turned into almost
comic irony when the square he once stood on - and which
was named for a time after Joseph Stalin - was officially re-
designated ‘Ronald Reagan Square’ in 2004. Speak to any
local, however, and you’ll still hear it referred to as Plac
Centralny. A walk around Plac Centralny’s fearsome social
realist arcades brings you to several points of interest,
including the iconic Markiza neon sign, and Cepelix folk
art shop. Also within easy walking distance is the former
Świtowid cinema, another social realist stalwart that today
houses the PRL Museum (p.102). Make it one of your
first stops before wandering back to Plac Centralny and
down Roses Avenue to the Nowa Huta District Museum
(p.102).
Although Plac Centralny and Roses Avenue serve as the
focal point for visitors, it’s the Steelworks (ul. Ujasek 1, T-2)
that Nowa Huta is famous for, not to mention named after.
Employing some 40,000 people in its heyday the ‘Lenin
Steelworks’ were capable of producing seven million tonnes
of steel annually, and boasted the largest blast furnace in
Europe. Like Plac Centralny, the steel mill entrance has been
given the full socialist treatment, flanked by two concrete
monstrosities built to echo the fine old buildings of Poland.
Enjoy the view because you’ll go no further; the steelworks
are sadly off limits to tourists at the moment.
Nowa Huta was meant to be a showcase socialist city,
but it soon became a hotbed of anti-communist activity
and played a huge role in the Solidarity strikes of the early
1980s, preceded by the struggle for permission to build the
city’s first church; though it took 28 years, The Lord’s Ark
(p.102) was finally consecrated in 1977. While much of NH
is the product of the last half century, a true tour of the area
reveals a number of treasures of much older historical value.
The most epitomising example of a pre-steel age in the
area is Wanda’s Mound (p.103), a mysterious prehistoric
earthwork that proves the area’s settlement predates that
of Kraków’s Old Town. The quiet neighbouring village
of Mogiła (p.101) meanwhile harbours one of the most
cherished religious sites in Małopolska in the Cistercian
Monastery and its morbidly miraculous cross.
GETTING TO NOWA HUTA
Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram
network. Tram 4 from ‘Dworzec Główny’ (the train
station stop, D-2) goes straight to Plac Centralny (O-4)
in about 20mins.
MOGIŁA
CISTERCIAN MONASTERY
& CHURCH OF ST. BARTHOLOMEW
Located in what remains of the sleepy village of Mogiła
that Nowa Huta was plunked down upon, this small
cluster of ancient religious buildings - which includes
the Cistercian Monastery and its two adjoining churches,
as well as St. Bartholomew’s Church across the street -
was the closest place of worship to Plac Centralny until
Arka Pana Church was finally consecrated in 1977. The
vast and splendid Holy Cross Basilica and the adjoining
Cistercian cloister, which date way, way back to 1266,
are recognised as among the most important religious
buildings in Małopolska. During the Renaissance the
monastery was well known for its master painters and
the huge interior of Holy Cross Basilica as well as the
monastery library feature many fine works from the
period. Most importantly, Holy Cross Basilica also stores
the famous Cross of Mogiła - the source of many
miraculous legends. Discovered when a blacksmith’s
son jumped into the Wisła River to save what he
thought to be a drowning man floating downstream,
the cross was brought to the monastery and cemented
its reputation for miracles when it was the only part of
the church’s furnishings not destroyed by the fire of
1447, despite being made of wood. Christ’s hair and
loincloth were burned however, and ever since that
time he has donned a wrap of true fabric and a wig of
real human hair. Weird.
The timber Church of St. Bartholomew’s was erected
across from the monastic complex to provide a place of
worship for the Catholic layman, one of whom - master
carpenter Maciej Mączka - put his name and completion
date on the door after building this enduring wooden
treasure. Founded by Kraków bishop Iwo Odrowąż, who
brought the Cistercians to Mogiła from Silesia in 1222,
the present structure dates from 1466. Exceptional for its
three aisles - a rarity in wooden sacral architecture - the
18
th
century belfry and beautiful domed entrance gate
have also been preserved.
Mogiła is easily accessed from Plac Centralny via trams
10 and 16; get off at ‘Klasztorna’ and it’s a short walk
south. QR-5, ul. Klasztorna 11, www.mogila.cystersi.
pl. Open by prior arrangement only.
102 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Nowa Huta
MUSEUMS
NOWA HUTA MUSEUM
This small museum features sweet neon signage and
a series of changing exhibitions relating to the life and
culture of the district. A requisite stop for anyone in the
area, here you can also pick up plenty of information about
NH, and they arrange sightseeing tours of the district as
well.QO-2, os. Słoneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12
425 97 75, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 6/4zł, family ticket
12zł, Wed free. Y U N
PRL MUSEUM
In development for years, this museum inside the
former Kino Światowid - a local landmark in social realist
architecture, completed in 1957 - is dedicated to Polish
history between the years 1944 and 1989, telling the
story of everyday life during the country’s communist era.
Though the building is awaiting further renovations, part
of the permanent exhibit has now been installed in the
basement, while temporary exhibits occupy the ground
floor. Due to a lack of English translations, the current
temporary exhibit (open until the end of February) on
how locals spent their free time during communism is
unlikely to engage tourists much, but descend into the
former cinema’s cellars for the intriguing ‘Nuclear Threat:
Shelters of Nowa Huta’ exhibit. There are actually some
250 shelters beneath NH - enough to accommodate every
resident in the district - and this is the largest in Kraków.
Well-translated throughout, including an instructive film
with English subtitles, here you’ll learn about the very
organised and intricate plan Poland had for dealing with a
potential nuclear attack during the Cold War, and the role
every citizen would play in such an event. If you’re from the
West, it’s akin to mild culture shock, and the space itself is
impressively vast. Within easy walking distance from Plac
Centralny, if you’ve made the trip out to NH there’s no
reason not to make a stop here. A small shop inside selling
genuine antiques from the PRL era is an added bonus.
QO-4, Os. Centrum E 1, tel. (+48) 12 446 78 21, www.
mprl.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission
9/7zł.
CHURCHES
THE LORD’S ARK
Built between 1967 and 1977, Nowa Huta’s first house
of worship was designed by Wojciech Pietrzyk and was
pieced together brick by brick by volunteer workers with no
assistance from the communist authorities. The complete
opposite of what Nowa Huta was meant to stand for, The
Lord’s Ark is a remarkable building, and a true symbol of
the Polish belief in Catholicism. With no outside help it was
down to the locals to mix cement with spades, and find
the two million stones needed for the church’s facade. The
first corner stone was laid in 1969 by Cardinal Karol Wojtyła,
who would later assume fame as Pope John Paul II, but the
discovery of a WWII ammunition dump delayed work, as
some 5,000 mines and shells had to be carefully removed.
Finally, on May 15th 1977, the church was consecrated.
Built to resemble Noah’s Ark, with a 70 metre mast-shaped
crucifix rising from the middle, the church houses an array
of curious treasures, including a stone from the tomb of St.
Peter in the Vatican, a tabernacle containing a fragment of
rutile brought back from the moon by the crew of Apollo
11, and a controversial statue of Christ that shows him not
on a cross, but about to fly to the heavens. If you think
that’s odd, check out the statue dedicated to Our Lady
the Armoured - a half metre sculpture made from ten
kilogrammes of shrapnel removed from Polish soldiers
wounded at the Battle of Monte Cassino. In the early 1980s,
the church became a focal point during anti-communist
protests, not least for the shelter it afforded the locals from
the militia. Protesting during the period of Martial Law
was dangerous business, as proven by the monument
dedicated to Bogdan Włosik opposite the church. Włosik
was shot in the chest by security services, and later died
of his injuries. His death outraged the people, and his
funeral was attended by 20,000 mourners. The monument
commemorating the site of his death was erected in 1992
and is a tribute to all those who died during this period. As
recently as September 2012, Kraków City Council awarded
Arka Pana the ‘Cracoviae Merenti’ silver medallion for its
significance to the city’s history.QN-1, ul. Obrońców
Krzyża 1, www.arkapana.pl. Open 07:00 - 18:00. No
visiting during mass please.
February - March 2016 103 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Nowa Huta
PLACES OF INTEREST
CENTRAL SQUARE & ROSES AVENUE
The centre of Nowa Huta’s architectural layout, Plac
Centralny (Central Square) is the district’s primary
landmark and one of social realism’s highest architectural
achievements, despite never being completed. The two
main structures of the square were to be the towering
Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN) at the northern end
and a colonnaded theatre at the southern end, with an
obelisk in between; though the designs were in place, none
saw development. Similarly, the grand promenade linking
them - Roses Avenue (Aleja Róż, O-3) - was never fully
realised, and terminates after a mere four blocks, making
it a fine example of your typical Stalinist ‘road to nowhere.’
While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining
the way, you’ll find several curiosities. First and foremost,
don’t miss the gorgeously restored ‘Markiza’ neon sign
at the corner of os. Centrum A and al. Jana Pawła II (O-4).
Though the cake shop it advertised is long gone, the sign
stanmds out as the area’s most nostalgic memento from
the PRL era. Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta
is Cepelix (os. Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat
10:00-13:00, closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and
design, this amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to the
original 50s interior of stylised furnishings, metal chandeliers
and a coffer ceiling with colourful hand-painted ceramic
plates. The character of this place hasn’t changed a bit and
as such it’s a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework, famous
Bolesławiec pottery, and even Nowa Huta souvenirs. Across
the street is a typical milk bar (bar mleczny), one of the
Soviet era worker cafeterias which still thrive in the district.
If you think that can’t be topped, take a trip to the other end
of the block to see the hideously outdated interiors of the
famous Stylowa Restaurant - one of the only places to eat
in NH that isn’t a milk bar. Once one of the most exclusive
restaurants in town, this place carries on in the same spirit as
the day it opened with an interior that hasn’t changed in well
over 30 years. Stop in Saturday after 18:00 (10zł cover believe
it or not) to witness pensioned locals strutting their stuff on
the dancefloor to live disco polo sets by a crooning husband
and wife team, and we guarantee you won’t be able to leave
before dancing with at least two grannies and having at least
three unwanted conversations. A rare cultural experience,
few places like Stylowa still exist anywhere.QO-4.
WANDA’S MOUND
Though construction of Nowa Huta began in 1949,
Wanda’s Mound (Kopiec Wandy) is indisputable evidence
that the history of the area goes back much further. In
fact, the village of Mogiła, which Wanda’s Mound is near
the historical centre of, has been inhabited since 5000
BC without interruption, while archaeologists date the
settlement of Kraków’s Old Town much later in the 8th
century. Together with Krakus Mound in Podgórze (K-5)
- Kraków’s other prehistoric earthwork - Wanda’s Mound
plays a role in one of Poland’s greatest archaeological
mysteries as the mound’s date of construction, builders
and function all remain a subject of great speculation.
Leading theories suggest that both mounds were erected
sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries, by either
the Slavs or the Celts, as burial mounds or pagan cult sites;
perhaps most likely is that they were created as burial
mounds which later became cult sites. Though seemingly
random within the layout of modern Kraków, the location
of the two mounds can hardly be seen as an accident;
when standing atop Wanda’s Mound on the evening of the
summer solstice, the sun can be seen setting in a direct line
behind Krakus Mound.
Off a major road behind a handy tram stop (station
‘Kopiec Wandy’ - tram 21 takes you there, but you must
request the stop), Wanda’s Mound is a conical earthwork
rising 14m with a winding path to the top, adorned by a
small monument from the 19th century by Jan Matejko
who lived in the Krzesławice Manor nearby. The victim
of general neglect and geographical trespasses, Wanda’s
Mound today lies just outside the fence of the fearsomely
enormous Sendzimir steel plant, of which unglamorous
glimpses can be seen through the trees. The view to the
southwest is an improvement, where Krakus Mound and
Podgórze can be seen in the distance, though Wanda’s
Mound unfortunately doesn’t offer sweeping views of
the same calibre as Kraków’s other mounds. The parkland
surrounding the mound is in need of development, not
to mention some proper modern archaeological studies;
behind the mound is a footpath leading to the right
towards one of Kraków’s hidden 19th century Austrian
fortresses, but, honestly, it just gives us the creeps.QT-4,
Near intersection of ul. Ujastek Mogilski and ul. Bardosa.
TOURS
CRAZY GUIDES
Specialising in communist-themed tours of Nowa Huta:
experience Stalin’s gift to Kraków - one of the world’s
only centrally planned cities - in a genuine Eastern Bloc
Trabant 601 automobile. Considering the large size and
somewhat underwhelming nature of walking around
the district on your own, this may be the best way to
get the most out of a trip to Nowa Huta.Qtel. (+48)
500 09 12 00, www.crazyguides.com. ‘Communism
Tour’ 139zł per person.
104 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Wieliczka
WIELICZKA SALT MINE
A visit to the salt mine begins at the Daniłowicza Shaft; buy
your ticket from the adjacent ticket office and check the
outside display for the time of the next guided tour in your
language. Your ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine:
the Tourist Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, and
the Underground Museum which takes an additional
hour to visit. In between there’s an opportunity to take a
break, use the restrooms and even get something to eat
(or escape if that’s your preference). However, be aware
that the tour does not end at the restaurant as many
tour guides suggest it does to foreign groups; in fact, they
are obliged to escort you to and through the Underground
Museum (which you have already paid for) as well.
Be prepared to do a lot of walking and bear in mind that the
mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. If you want to
endear the guides, memorise the wonderful words Szczęść
Boże (shtench boes-yuh); this essential, unpronounceable
bit of miner’s lingo effectively means ‘God be with you’ and
substitutes for Dzień dobry (‘hello’) when underground.
Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden
stairs (don’t worry, you won’t have to climb them) to the
first level 64m underground. Of nine levels, the tour only
takes you to the first three (a max depth of 135m), with
the 3.5kms covered during the 3 hour tour (including
both parts) comprising a mere 1% of this underground
realm. While wandering the timber-re-enforced tunnels
you’ll gain insight from your guide into the history of the
site, the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives
of the men who worked there. There’s the opportunity
to not only operate a medieval winch used for moving
massive blocks of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring
some tequila). The tour visits numerous ancient chambers
and chapels in which almost everything around you is
made from rock salt, including the tiled floors, chandeliers,
sculptures and stringy stalactites that hang down. The
highlight of the tour is the magnificent 22,000m³ St.
Kinga’s Chapel dating from the 17
th
century. Known for
its amazing acoustics, the chapel features bas-relief wall
carvings from the New Testament done by miners that
display an astonishing amount of depth and realism.
After passing a lake that holds more than 300g of salt
per litre, and a hall high enough to fly a hot-air balloon
in (you can take a lift to the balcony at the top for 10zł),
Kraków is without a doubt one of the most popular
tourist cities in Central Europe, and as you’ve likely heard,
one of its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually
located in Wieliczka—a small town about 15km to
the southeast. An astounding 1.2 million people visit
Wieliczka Salt Mine each year (that’s one out of every
seven or eight visitors to Kraków), and it’s hardly a recent
phenomenon—people have been visiting the salt mine
for centuries with notable guests including Nicolaus
Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk
Chopin, Ignacy Panderewski, Pope John Paul II and
former US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the first official
tourist trail opened underground here way back in the
mid-19
th
century. But it’s not only tourists who come to
visit. So deep is the love of the locals for this place that in
a recent survey, Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine as
their number one favourite thing about Kraków; again,
not bad for an attraction in another town 15 kilometres
away. Not only is Wieliczka a World Heritage Site, but it
has the distinction of having been included (along with
Kraków’s Old Town and Kazimierz districts) on UNESCO’s
first-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you know,
back when being a World Heritage site actually meant
something). Additional accolades aside, this unique
industrial heritage site has been a popular destination
for centuries and if you’re visiting Kraków, you should
also consider the short side trip out to Wieliczka, which
in addition to the famous salt mine, also boasts a health
resort, castle and museum.
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
GETTING TO WIELICZKA
Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east
out of Kraków (aptly named ul. Wieliczka within city
limits) leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15
minutes. Alternatively, a new train service direct from
Kraków’s main train station to within walking distance
of the mine makes getting to Wieliczka easier than ever
for tourists. Trains leave every 30mins, the journey time
is only about 20mins, and tickets are 3.00zł each way.
106 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Wieliczka
the first part of the tour ends at the underground
restaurant and souvenir stands, at which point you
should be instructed on your two options: how to exit
(option A) or where and when to join the second part
of the tour (option B). If this option B is unmentioned or
unclear, inform your guide that you also want to see the
Underground Museum and ask them how to do so.
At your leisure you should be able to find your way past
the restaurant and restrooms, beyond which you’ll find the
queue for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that
shoots you back up to the surface (option A), and separate
area to the right for those that want to continue on to
the Underground Museum (option B, which we heartily
recommend). Your original guide should admit you into
the museum exhibition which comprises an additional
16 chambers over 1.5kms packed full of artwork, artefacts
and mining equipment which your guide will elaborate
on. Perhaps the most fascinating and informative part of
the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of these beautiful
exhibits include two paintings by famous 19
th
century Polish
artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of sparkling salt
crystals. Upon completion your guide leads you back to the
ancient lift which takes you above ground back to where
you started.Qul. Daniłowicza 10, Wieliczka, tel. (+48)
12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. Open 08:00 - 17:00.
Admission 79/64zł; 84/64zł for non-Polish tours; taking
photos is an additional 10zł. In addition to the popular
‘Tourist Route’ described above, several other routes are
offered including a handicap-accessible route, a route for
children, and the ‘Miner’s Route’ (open 10:00 - 14:30) - an
interactive tour in which tourists are assigned a role by the
foreman/tour guide and experience the daily routines,
rituals and secrets of working underground.
WIELICZKA HISTORY
About 20 million years ago, Kraków and the surrounding
area lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea.
Unfortunately the beaches are gone, but left behind
were some enormous salt deposits, shifted hundreds of
metres underground by tectonic movements. Though
cheap and universally accessible today, salt was an
extremely valuable commodity centuries ago due to
its ability to preserve food, especially meat. An ancient
sign of wealth, salt was used as currency before there
was money; Roman soldiers who ably performed their
duties were said to be ‘worth their salt’ and the word
‘salary’ comes from the Latin word ‘salarium’ used to
describe their salty wages.
Salt extraction by boiling water from briny surface
pools in the regions surrounding Kraków can be
traced back to the middle Neolithic era (3500 BC),
but it was the discovery of underground rock salt in
the 13
th
century that led to the rapid development
of the area. Underground extraction began in
nearby Bochnia in 1252 and was established on
an industrial scale in Wieliczka by the 1280s; soon
both cities had earned municipal rights and by
the end of the 13
th
century the Cracow Saltworks
was established to manage both mines, with its
headquarters in the Wieliczka Castle complex.
One of the first companies in Europe, the Cracow
Saltworks brought vast wealth to the Polish crown
for the next 500 years until the first partition of
Poland in the 18
th
century. Its heyday was the
16
th
and 17
th
centuries when it employed some
2,000 people, production exceeded 30,000 tonnes
and the Saltworks accounted for one third of the
revenue of the state treasury.
Under Austrian occupation (1772-1918) production
was further increased by mechanising the mining
works with steam and later electric machinery, and
the first tourist route was opened. By the 20
th
century
however, over-exploitation and neglect of necessary
protection works had begun to destabilise the mine’s
condition and the market value of salt no longer made
it a viable enterprise. In 1964 the extraction of rock
salt was halted in Wieliczka and in 1996 exploitation
of the salt deposit was stopped altogether. Despite
the significant hazards of the day (flooding, cave-ins,
explosive gas), over the course of seven centuries 26
access shafts and 180 fore-shafts connecting individual
levels had been drilled in Wieliczka. 2,350 chambers
had been excavated with over 240km of tunnels
reaching a maximum depth of 327m underground.
Due to its unique saline microclimate and innovative
engineering, the mine has been well preserved and
is today used for historical, medicinal and tourist
purposes.
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
February - March 2016 107 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
The infamous Auschwitz I entrance gate. | Noel Moore, Dollar Photo Club
Auschwitz
For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater
community, largely bypassed by world events. That
changed with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’
under German occupation, became the chosen site of
the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1
million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here,
etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history
books and countless films, documentaries, books and
survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective
consciousness.
Visitors to Kraków are faced with asking themselves
whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz.
It is a difficult question. There are few who would say
they actually ‘want’ to visit Auschwitz, though many are
compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us
who don’t feel so compelled, it’s easy to give reasons for not
going: not having enough time, already knowing as much
as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally
connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit,
or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site
of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds
of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all
of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly
reasonable until you’ve actually visited the site; you’ll be
hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and
still argues against going.
The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most
horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion,
poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it
almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself.
Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is
presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps
spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by
the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter how
much you think you know on the subject, the perspective
gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you
choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However
it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of
Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy
concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern.
As such, we believe everyone should visit.
VISITING AUSCHWITZ
Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum can be chaotic and
confusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket
windows with different designations, and excessive
signage that contradicts itself. This can be avoided by going
as part of an organised group tour, organised by a local tour
company. If you are visiting independently however, or in a
small group, find the queue for the desk marked ‘Individual
Guests’. During peak tourist season the museum makes it
obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a guided
tour unless you get there before 10:00 (difficult to do from
Kraków) or after 15:00; in the off season (November 1st -
March 31st) it is also possible to explore the museum for
free without a guide regardless of the time. Be that as it
may, we strongly recommend the guided tour, which is
excellent, profound and professional; afterwards you’ll find
it hard to imagine getting as much out of your visit had you
explored the grounds on your own. Tours in English depart
most frequently, and there are also regularly scheduled
108 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Auschwitz
tours in German, French, Italian, Polish and Spanish. Tour
departure times change frequently; exact times can be
seen online at auschwitz.org and it would be wise to look
them up before visiting. The museum makes a big effort to
provide the tour in the native language of each guest, and
tours in languages other than those just mentioned can be
easily arranged if done in advance.
After purchasing your ticket and headphones, your
experience typically begins with a harrowing 20 minute
film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army
when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945.
The film (not recommended for children under 14) is
not guaranteed year-round however, in which case your
tour of the camp begins straightaway with a live guide
speaking into a microphone which you hear through your
headphones.
Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare
accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of
Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve
eaten breakfast. After completing the tour of the first
camp, there is only a short break before the bus leaves
for Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same
tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be
wise to pack some food for the day (though there is
some limited food available at the museum). The tour
of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours. Buses
regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or
catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz
I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food
bar and restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at
Auschwitz II-Birkenau. If exploring Auschwitz without
a guide, it is highly recommended that you pick up the
official guidebook (5zł), whose map of the camp is crucial
to avoid missing any of the key sites; these can be picked
up at any of the numerous bookshops at both sites.Qul.
Więźniów Oświęcimia 20, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844
81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Auschwitz I open 08:00 -
16:00; from March open 08:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 1
hour before closing.
Auschwitz II - Birkenau open 08:00 - 17:00; from March
open 08:00 -18:00. Last entrance 1.5 hours before
closing. An individual ticket for a foreign language
guided tour of both camps costs 40/30zł. Tours for
groups range from 300-450zł depending on size. The
film costs 4/3 zł. Official guidebook 5zł. Note that prices
may change in March.
JEWISH MUSEUM
AUSCHWITZ JEWISH MUSEUM
& SYNAGOGUE
If you have more time to spend in Oświęcim, head
to this historic synagogue (one of three surviving
in the centre of Oświęcim) for more information on
the town’s Jewish heritage, including a permanent
exhibition on Jewish life there before World War II.
Located near Oświęcim’s market square 3km from the
Auschwitz museum, the centre offers specially tailored
programmes for those plan their visits in advance,
and there’s a cafe here with a sweet roof terrace in the
warmer months.QPl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Oświęcim,
tel. (+48) 33 844 70 02, www.ajcf.org. Open 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat. Admission 10/6zł, family ticket
15zł, kids 6 and under free.
GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ
Lying 75km west of Kraków, there are several ways
to get to Oświęcim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be
signing on for a tour organised by a multitude of
Kraków-based tour companies (like Cracow City Tours
or Cracow Tours) to ensure everything goes smoothly;
providing transportation, tickets and general guidance,
the organisational help of these outfits can eliminate
significant confusion upon arrival.
For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart for
Oświęcim from the main bus station (ul. Bosacka 18, E-1);
most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance, but not
all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you may end up
at the Oświęcim bus station which is at the other end of
town. The journey takes 1hr 40mins and costs 12zł.
Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between
Kraków and Oświęcim, with a journey time of 1hr
45mins - 1hr 55mins and a cost of about 8.50zł; note,
however, that early trains to Oświęcim can be eerily
crowded, particularly on weekends.
The Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 22)
lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz
II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers
24-29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a ticket (under 3zł) from
the nearest kiosk. Museum buses regularly shuttle
visitors between the two camps, or catch a cab for 15zł.
Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour (+48 605 31
50 77) can take you back to Kraków from either camp -
a group of eight would pay about 30-40zł/person.
The infamous ‘Wall of Death’
February - March 2016 109 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Auschwitz
The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific
suffering of individual nations, including a block dedicated
in memory of the Roma (gypsy) people who perished.
The tour concludes with the gruesome gas chamber
and crematoria, whose two furnaces were capable of
burning 350 corpses daily. The gallows used to hang camp
commandant Rudolf Hoss in 1947 stands outside.
AUSCHWITZ II - BIRKENAU
Having completed the long tour of Auschwitz I, some
visitors decline the opportunity to visit Auschwitz II -
Birkenau, however it’s here that the impact of Auschwitz
can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope and solitude
of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau contained
300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that covered
175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Conference on
January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen rubber-
stamped the wholesale extermination of European Jews,
it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all the
Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held
there in 1944.
The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the
camp still remain. Here a grim selection process took
place with 70% of those who arrived herded directly
into gas chambers. Those selected as fit for slave labour
lived in squalid, unheated barracks where starvation,
disease and exhaustion accounted for countless lives.
With the Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to
hide all traces of their crimes. Today little remains, with
all gas chambers having been dynamited and living
quarters levelled. Climb the tower of the main gate for
a full impression of the complex’s size. Directly to the
right lie wooden barracks used as a quarantine area,
while across on the left hand side lie numerous brick
barracks which were home to the penal colony and also
the women’s camp. At the far end of the camp lie the
mangled remains of the crematoria, as well as a bleak
monument unveiled in 1967. After a comparably brief
guided tour of the camp, visitors are left to wander and
reflect on their own before catching the return bus to
Auschwitz I.
AUSCHWITZ I
Your tour of Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a
replica of the infamous ‘Arbeit Macht Frei’ (‘Work Makes You
Free’) entrance gate. [The original sign was actually made
by inmates of the camp on Nazi orders and is no longer on
display after it was stolen in December 2009 and found in
pieces in northern Poland a few days after the theft.] From
the entrance gate, the prescribed tour route leads past
the kitchens, where the camp orchestra once played as
prisoners marched to work, before starting in earnest inside
Block 4. Here an overview of the creation and reality behind
the world’s most notorious concentration camp is given,
with exhibits including original architectural sketches for
gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B used for extermination and
mugshots of inmates. Most disturbing is over seven tonnes
of human hair once destined for German factories, which
does much to demonstrate the scale and depravity of the
Nazi death machine.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived
prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some
of which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of
artificial limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits
and, most affectingly, children’s shoes. Block 6 examines
the daily life of prisoners with collections of photographs,
artists’ drawings and tools used for hard labour while the
next set of barracks recreates the living conditions endured
by prisoners: bare rooms with sackcloth spread out on the
floor, and rows of communal latrines, one decorated with a
poignant mural depicting two playful kittens.
Block 11, otherwise known as ‘The Death Block’, is arguably
the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the ‘Wall of Death’
- against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS
- has been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it
was here that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his ground-
breaking visit in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic
cellars of Block 11 the Nazi’s conducted their experiments
with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the cell of
Father Maximilian Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to death
after offering his life to save another inmate, is marked with
a small memorial, and tiny ‘standing cells’ measuring 90 x
90 cm - where up to four prisoners were held for indefinite
amounts of time - remain intact.
110 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Tarnów Old Town. Photo by Krzysztof Gzyl, courtesy of Tarnów Tourist Information Centre
Tarnów
EAT & DRINK
CAFE TRAMWAJ
It’s been over 70 years since streetcars graced the streets of
Tarnów, but this antique tram parked on Plac Sobieskiego
takes tourists and locals back in time to Tarnów’s golden
era, when electrified public transport was a symbol of the
city’s stature. Capturing the spirit of the old days (the good
ones, mind you) this wood-trimmed, authentically furnished
tram car full of sepia postcards and inter-war souvenirs is
the perfect place to meet for coffee, a slice of cake and a
conversation. There’s ice cream, a mini-library with books on
the region, and it’s also a free wifi hotspot, which is hardly
taken for granted in this town. If you can score one of the
limited number of tables, you’ll be happy you did.QD-4, Pl.
Sobieskiego 2, tel. (+48) 503 37 23 29. Open 06:30 - 21:00,
Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 6 N G S W
SOPRANO
This is bona fide fine dining, from the exceptional Italian
cuisine down to the gold tablecloths. Unfortunately the
best seats in the house are in the lush seasonal garden -
where you can watch the chef at work with the brick, wood-
fired pizza oven - but that shouldn’t stop you from making
this your dinner destination in lousy weather as well. The
soups are delicious and come with fresh olive bread, while
our beef cheeks were a worthy follow-up. Probably the
most money you can spend on a meal out in Tarnów, and
still a heck of a bargain.QC-5, ul. Mościckiego 6, tel. (+48)
14 621 09 09, www.soprano-tarnow.pl. Open 10:00 -
22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (20-48zł).
T U G S W
Eighty kilometres east of Kraków lies the charming and
hospitable city of Tarnów. Małopolska’s second city by size,
Tarnów is absolutely dwarfed by Kraków but features many
of the same cultural and architectural charms without the
crushing crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of
herd mentality that unfortunately come along with a tourist
market the size of Kraków’s. On the contrary, Tarnów offers
tourists the comforts of a small town with a long history and
the cultural intrigue and activities of a much bigger city. In
addition to a well-preserved medieval Old Town - which
includes a glorious Cathedral, a cute market square and
Town Hall, and many pedestrian avenues - in Tarnów visitors
will discover several unique and worthwhile museums,
wooden churches, historic cemeteries, castle ruins and a
scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic and historical
monuments at every turn. Those with a special interest in
Tarnów’s Jewish heritage will still find traces of it today in
the city’s small, but evocative Jewish district and large
Jewish Cemetery. While the town’s nightlife may not have
the sizzle of Kraków, there are still plenty of bars, cafes and
restaurants where you’ll find it easy to meet friendly local
folks who are proud of their city and eager to present a
good impression to foreigners. All told it’s enough to easily
warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as Tarnów
also makes a superb base for exploring the wealth of other
nearby sites in the region, including the Castle at Dębno,
the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of Bochnia. You’ll
find more information on Tarnów and all the surrounding
area has to offer on our website (tarnow.inyourpocket.
com), but make sure you also pay a visit to the fine folks at
the Tourist Information Office when you arrive and pick up
a copy of IYP’s special Tarnów mini-guide.
February - March 2016 111 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Tarnów
SIGHTSEEING
CATHEDRAL
Dating from the 14
th
century with major additions and
rebuilds in the 15
th
and 19
th
centuries, the Neo-Gothic
Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, just northwest
of the Rynek and one of the oldest brick buildings in the city,
must rate as one of the most impressive parish churches in
Poland. Of note is the 16
th
-century portal, the impressive
several-metre-long monuments to the Tarnowski and
Ostrogski families, a number of extraordinary paintings and
the impressive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of reference
when getting lost in one of Tarnów’s many rambling
back streets. Some nice recent additions are also evident,
including the fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on
the southern side of the building, and a large monument
of Pope John Paul II outside the entrance.QD-4, Pl.
Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14 621 45 01, www.katedra.
tarnow.opoka.org.pl. Open 09:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 18:00
(except Sundays). No visiting during mass please.
DIOCESAN MUSEUM
To paraphrase the late John Paul II, the Church needs art
to better understand what lies inside the soul of man, and
Tarnów’s superb Diocesan Museum, established in 1888,
does a very good job at doing just that. An astonishing
collection of religious art from the 15
th
century onwards,
housed inside an equally wonderful ensemble of 16
th
-
century houses, the museum’s most precious artefact
is the original alter from St. Leonard’s church in nearby
Lipnica Murowana, moved here for preservation reasons at
the insistence of UNESCO. Other highlights include some
truly breathtaking Gothic triptychs and sculptures from
Małopolska, a collection of church fabrics from the Middle
Ages and a few pieces of 19
th
-century religious folk art. A
marvellous and highly recommended experience.QD-4,
Pl. Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum.
diecezja.tarnow.pl. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00;
Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission
free.
TARNÓW DISTRICT MUSEUM - MAIN BRANCH
The new headquarters of the many branches of the Tarnów
District Museum, located in an historical building right on
the Rynek, this museum currently hosts rotating temporary
exhibits, and is the permanent home Tarnów’s collection of
fragments of the Transylvania Panorama - a lost masterpiece
painted on an epic scale depicting local hero Józef
Bem’s victory at the Battle of Sibiu during the Hungarian
Revolution of 1848. Displayed in Lwów, Budapest and then
Warsaw, regrettably in 1928 the enormous panoramic
canvas was cut into 100 pieces, the majority of which have
yet to be recovered. A pet project of the Tarnów District
Museum, the museum currently possesses 15 out of the
36 fragments which have been located.QD-4, Rynek 3,
tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open
09:00 - 15:00, Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Mon, Sat. Admission 8/5zł, family ticket 16zł; Sun free for
the permanent exhibition (Transylvania Panorama). N
GETTING TO TARNÓW
Only 80km east of Kraków, Tarnów is most easily
reached by road - a hassle-free drive down the new
A4 highway that takes less than an hour. Buses from
Kraków to Tarnów run about once an hour, with the
first leaving as early as 06:45 and the last bus back to
Kraków departing at 21:35; the journey takes between
1hr 15mins and 2hrs. Tarnów is also served by some
30 or so trains every day from Kraków, with a journey
time of between 90 and 145 minutes depending on
whether you take a local or express train.
MARKETS
Located at the intersection of several trade routes,
Tarnów has been home to a large marketplace since
medieval times. In addition to the actual market square,
the city has had an open-air market just south of the
Rynek at the bottom of the ‘Great Stairs’ for centuries.
Known locally as ‘the Burek,’ this area actually extends
for several blocks and includes several small squares
and pavilions selling all manner of goods, from food
and flowers to clothing and cosmetics. Whatever it is,
whether it’s worth anything or not, you can get it at
the Burek - and a trip here is the quintessential Tarnów
shopping experience.
The name ‘Burek’ officially refers to the fruit, produce,
meat and dairy market on Plac Bema, which was
recently modernised - don’t miss the charming
Organ Grinder. Beyond it, however, you’ll also find
the large Hala Targowa (or ‘Hala Miejska’ as it’s also
called) clothing market as well as some other random
merchants hawking their wares in the vicinity. Have
some change and small bills handy, as asking the
vendors to break a 100zł note is unlikely to win any
smiles. Opening hours vary and some vendors open
and close as they please, but the general rule is to get
there early, as trade dries up by mid-afternoon.
112 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Tarnów
RYNEK & THE OLD TOWN
Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets
and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways
from a lower, surrounding loop (formerly the city walls
and defensive towers), Tarnów’s exemplary Old Town
began life in the 14
th
century, although most of what
now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is
the Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four
sides by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from
the 16
th
to the 18
th
century.
At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a
lovely 15
th
-century building originally constructed in
the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16
th

century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off
with an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which Tarnów’s
‘hejnał’ - a short traditional melody - is played every day
at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Cracovian cousin, the
Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a good
investigation, and includes a fairly well preserved Jewish
quarter to the east, one remaining defensive tower and a
pleasant pedestrian street, hugging its northern edge and
featuring several interesting buildings as well as a number
of monuments. In the spring and summer the Rynek
comes to life with tables and chairs from the multitude of
cafes and bars (and surprisingly few restaurants) lining it
and has a warm and welcoming appeal.QD-4.
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
As well as highlighting
local ethnographic tra-
ditions, this better than
average collection in-
cludes a large celebration
of Roma (Gypsy) culture,
which is allegedly the
only such collection in Eu-
rope. A truly fascinating, if
slightly dated, exhibition
tracing Roma culture in
Poland from its begin-
nings in the 15
th
century
to their fate at the hands
of the Nazis and beyond, the three rooms that make up the
exhibition include some excellent maps, models, costumes
and photographs; with about 350 Roma living in the Tarnów
area, their culture is still very much alive locally. In the mu-
seum’s back garden you’ll find several traditionally painted
gypsy caravans.QC-5, ul. Krakowska 10, tel. (+48) 14 622
06 25, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Thu
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admis-
sion 8/5zł, family ticket 16zł; Sun free. N
THE JEWISH CEMETERY
A 10-minute walk north
of the Old Town, this
cemetery was established
in the early 1580s and
is one of the oldest
and largest in Poland.
With several thousand
gravestones, almost all
of them untouched by
the Nazis, the Jewish
Cemetery is a haunting
albeit necessary part
of any visit to Tarnów.
Seriously overgrown in
places, some areas near the main entrance can still be easily
reached, and there are even signs in English marking a few
of the graveyard’s more eminent souls. Near the entrance
is a large memorial to the Jews of Tarnów, built from one
of the columns of the city’s destroyed New Synagogue. The
cemetery’s original gates are now in Washington’s Holocaust
Museum, and their replacements are kept firmly locked,
however it is possible to borrow a key by leaving a 20zł
deposit at the Tourist Information Centre at Rynek 7.QF-2,
Junction of ul. Słoneczna and ul. Matki Bożej Fatimskiej.
TOURIST INFORMATION
One of the most helpful offices in all of PL, here (and on
their multi-lingual website) you’ll find a wide range of
free info on Tarnów and the surrounding region, free
internet (browse away), bike rental, luggage lockers,
souvenirs, and there’s even accommodation available
upstairs. If you’re interested in a gadget-led tour, there’s
the Tarnów.Wooden Architecture App, nine different
mp3 audio tours, and a GPS guide. The friendly and
enthusiastic English-speaking staff, can give you a
better idea of what all that is, plus whatever additional
info or advice you need, so don’t be shy.QD-4, Rynek
7, tel. (+48) 14 688 90 90, www.tarnow.travel. Open
08:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. From March
open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
MUSEUM TICKETS
Note that all Tarnów museums are free on Sundays,
while on other days of the week a special sweetheart
ticket good for the Town Hall, District Museum, and
Ethnography Museum is available for only 16/10zł.
ArTo / Dollar Photo Club
February - March 2016 113 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Tarnów
THE ORGAN GRINDER
Tarnów’s newest monument was unveiled on Plac Bema
in July 2014 to celebrate the conclusion of renovation
works at the city’s primary marketplace, ‘the Burek.’ Paying
homage to the local and itinerant street performers
who were a common sight at the market during the 19
th

century, Arkadiusz Latos’ bronze sculpture actually comes
to life upon approach, faintly playing classics of the organ
grinder’s repertoire.QD-5, Pl. Bema.
TOWN HALL MUSEUM
Worth a visit for a peep
inside the Town Hall alone,
this extraordinary collection
over two floors includes
glass, porcelain, silver,
weaponry, and the most
extensive collection of 18
th
-
century Sarmatian portraits
in the country. Sarmatism,
if you’re wondering, was a
beguiling infusion of lifestyle,
culture and ideology that
predominated the Polish nobility from the 17
th
to 19
th

century. Based on the mistaken and rather amusing belief
that Poles were descended from a loose confederation of
ancient Iranian tribes, Polish Sarmatism evolved over the
centuries from a set of values based on pacifism into a
full-blown warrior philosophy that endorsed horseback
riding, outrageous behaviour and a propensity for lavish
Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar moustaches. The
Town Hall Tower can also be ascended if arranged ahead
of time, and offers panoramic views for a small extra fee.
QD-4, Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.
tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00; Thu 09:00 - 17:00; Sun
10:00 - 14:00; closed Mon, Sat. Museum admission
8/5zł, family ticket 16zł, Sun free for permanent
exhibition; tower admission 10/5zł; museum and
tower 15/8zł. U N
Explore more of Tarnów at
tarnow.inyourpocket.com
114 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
While drinking in cafes and beer gardens is probably the
number one local leisure activity, our Leisure section is
geared more for those looking for outdoor activities on a
beautiful day, or how to stay active on an ugly one. Generally,
Cracovians are spoiled with recreation opportunities, if only
for the fact that the Old Town is a joy to stroll around when
the sun is out and features several unique green spaces,
particularly the Planty (p.79) and Błonia (p.128). Kraków’s
unique and mysterious earthwork mounds also provide
interesting outdoor sightseeing opportunities near the city
centre - check out Krakus Mound in Podgórze (p.96) or
Kościuszko Mound in Salwator (p.11); or go deep into the
woods of Las Wolski to find Piłsudski Mound, as well as the
Zoo (p.115).
BOWLING & BILLIARDS
PLAC NOWY 1
Located in the basement of a modern building right on
Plac Nowy, this is the nicest bowling alley in Kraków.
With only six lanes, the space is intimate rather, so
reservations are wise. The bar puts an emphasis on
regional Polish microbrews, and you can order food
from the restaurant upstairs. Prices for one lane for one
hour (max 8 people) are 55, 75 or 95zł depending on
the day of the week and time of day.QD-6, Pl. Nowy
1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 11, www.placnowy1.pl. Open
14:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
THE STAGE
Probably Kraków’s most atmospheric billiards club, The Stage
is much more than just a pool hall and bar. In the evenings
this laid-back hangout often hosts events including concerts,
cabarets, and karaoke with a live band as locals rack ‘em up
on the seven handsome billiards tables in front of the street-
side windows.QB-1, ul. Łobzowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 681 63
85. Open 13:00 - 02:00. Cost of a table ranges between 15-
23zł/hr depending on the time of day.
ICE SKATING
BŁONIA ICE RINK
This year Kraków’s largest man-made glacier is actually next
to ‘the Błonia’ (that huge triangular tract of undeveloped
greenery just west of the Old Town) in Jordan Park. The
area includes two frozen pitches, a main 1000m2 patch,
and a separate 200m2 space for little ones to take their first
steps on the ice (and helmets to rent for paranoid parents).
A snack bar is also on hand with grilled sausages, hot
dogs, and hot drinks.QG-3, Jordan Park, entrance from
Al. 3-Maja, tel. (+48) 697 00 83 40, www.lodowisko-
krakowskieblonia.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat-Sun
09:00 - 22:00; closed from approxiomately mid-March.
Admission 9/8zł for 60mins ice time. Skate rental 8zł.
GALERIA KRAKOWSKA ICE RINK
This seasonal ice rink in front of the Galeria Krakowska
shopping mall offers the opportunity to stow your luggage
Leisure
February - March 2016 115 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Leisure
in a locker and hit the ice immediately after jumping off
the train. Rates are 9zł/hour for adults, 7zł for kids, and 8zł
for skate rental.QE-2, Pl. Jana Nowaka Jeziorańskiego.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00; closed from March.
INDOOR ATTRACTIONS
LASER PARK
Run amuck in the industrial wasteland around Schindler’s
Factory known as Zabłocie dodging laser beams and
zapping adversaries. Laser Arena uses a computer system
to register hits from the virtual bullets in a safe, simulated
gunfight within this highly unique setting. Prices are
complex and as follows: Mon-Thu 25/20zł for 30mins,
40/35zł for 60mins; Fri-Sun 35zł for 30mins, 55zł for 60mins.
Groups (10 players minimum) Mon-Thu 400zł, Fri-Sun
600zł.QI-4, ul. Zabłocie 20, tel. (+48) 12 296 01 30, www.
laserpark.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat
13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.
LET ME OUT
Escape games have become popular all across Europe, and
now Poland as well. Not for the claustrophobic, this exciting
challenge involves being willfully locked in a room and
using the clues around you to solve a series of puzzles, find
the key and free yourself as the clock ticks down from 45
minutes. Can you use your logic, problem-solving skills and
a bit of teamwork to escape in time? Let Me Out Kraków
offers three completely different rooms to choose from
for groups of 2-4 people; price 99zł per group, per game.
QA-2, ul. Józefa Szujskiego 6/4, tel. (+48) 788 55 61 50,
www.letmeout.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00.
LOST SOULS ALLEY
This year-round haunted house just off of the market
square takes you on a terrifying tour through a nightmare
gallery of sickening situations and encroaching peril.
Participants must work together to make their way
through ten rooms (most of which are locked and you
must find a key to free yourself and escape) of a creepy
ramshackle apartment full of blood-spattered beds,
hacked-off limbs, moaning invalids and reaching hands.
This isn’t a campy, Hollywood creature-feature brand of
horror, but a gruesome asylum full of tortured patients,
and twisted tenants; the scares are less of the pop-and-
shock variety, and more effecting of psychological dread
as you frantically fumble your way forward knowing that
terrifying shadows are closing in on you from all sides.
Incredibly well-done and effectively horrifying, as soon
as you enter you just want to make it to the end. Doing
so takes about 20mins, and we recommend this haunted
house for anyone 15 and over who loves a serious scare.
The best way to arrange a visit is to call in advance.
Discreetly hidden through a passageway off the main
street, past a strip club, and up a creepy set of stairs on
the first floor, visit if you dare.QC-3, ul. Floriańska 6, tel.
(+48) 666 98 60 69, www.lostsoulsalley.com. Open
12:00 - 20:00. Prices range from 18-30zł/per person
depending on how many are in the group.
KRAKÓW ZOO
Opened in 1929, this lovely zoological garden has
grown from a small menagerie to a 20 hectare park
offering visitors the chance to see nearly 1500 animals
of almost 300 species, but it’s still manageable in size.
Most of the exhibits are outdoors in the natural setting
of the surrounding Wolski Forest and there’s surprisingly
little to get depressed about. Peel your eyes for Indian
elephants, pygmy hippopotami, South American sea
lions, giraffes, camels, dwarf caimans and an impressive
array of brightly-plumed pheasants (our favourite).
There’s also a petting zoo, and some unavoidable
snack bars. Bus 134 leaves about every 30mins from
Stadion Cracovia (ul. Kałuży, H-3) and drops you off
at the entrance.QWolski Forest, tel. (+48) 12 425 35
51, www.zoo-krakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 18/10zł.
KRAKÓW WATER PARK
The huge indoor pool complex includes 800m of
water slides, dragon and pirate play areas, massage
fountains, climbing walls, wave machines, and other
in-water activities, Probably the thing your kid will
remember most about Kraków, you might not have
such a bad time yourself with access to the saunas,
jacuzzis, a fitness centre and a pool-side cafe from
which you can watch your little terrors dunk each other.
Prices are 20-26zł for one hour, 41-59zł for day access
(recommended - one hour just isn’t enough); note
that saunas and fitness centre arean additional charge,
and that on weekends this place is absolutely packed.
QL-1, ul. Dobrego Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31
90, www.parkwodny.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
116 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Leisure
WRT KARTING
Spin your wheels around this 250 metre indoor go-karting
course north of Nowa Huta. You can get there by taking bus
502 from ‘Dworzec Główny’ to ‘Wiślicka,’ then transferring to
bus 138, getting off at ‘Nowolipki’ (note that you may have
to request this stop).Qul. Nowolipki 3 (entrance from
ul. Makuszynskiego, Bieńczyce), tel. (+48) 509 43 70
61, www.wrt-karting.pl. Open 15:00 - 22:00, Fri 14:00 -
22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
SKIING
Kraków is conveniently located just an hour north of the
Tatra Mountains and within easy striking distance of
popular ski destinations like Koniki, Białka Tatrzańska and
Zakopane - Poland’s winter capital. The best way to get
from Kraków to the Tatras is by car or bus, or one of the
services listed below.
SKARPA TRAVEL
This firm organises day-trips to popular ski destinations
like Białka Tatrzańska, Jurgów and Wierholme. Transport is
provided for 40-50zł (depending on destination) and space
on the slopes is guaranteed. Pay an additional 85zł for the
ski pass when you get there.QD-5, ul. Dietla 50, tel. (+48)
12 619 48 00, www.skarpatravel.pl.
SNOW SPORTS
Snow boarding and ski lessons for beginners or those
more advanced during Saturday and Sunday trips to Białka
Tatrzańska or Czarna Góra. Includes transport, insurance
and instructor supervision for the entire day. 110zł per
person.QC-1, ul. Krowoderska 58/12, tel. (+48) 696 48
68 69, www.snowsports.pl.
SPA & BEAUTY
BOOK-A-BALANCE MOBILE SPA
This mobile spa service brings the pampering straight
to you. Qualified and experienced professionals arrive
at your apartment or hotel room with all the necessary
equipment to make you feel like royalty, ensuring that
you literally don’t have to lift a finger beyond making
the call. Offering a range of massages (130-310zł) and
beauty treatments (100-160zł).Qtel. (+48) 503 63 39
03, www.book-a-balance.pl. Available 7 days a week
between 08:00 and 22:00.
SLEIGH RIDES
The winter alternative of a horse-drawn carriage ride
around Kraków’s market square, a sleigh ride through
the countryside is arguably more magical and romantic,
and makes for a great family outing. A traditional ride
typically includes a large horse-drawn sled kitted out
with sleigh bells and flaming torches winding through
the beautiful snow-draped valleys surrounding Kraków
and concludes with a forest bonfire, grilled sausages,
tea or warm honey vodka. The companies listed here
offer such excursions for all ages as long as there’s snow
on the ground.
ECOTRAVEL
Organising sleigh rides through the gorgeous Ojców
National Park, 24km northwest of Kraków. Included
in the price of the sleigh ride are torches, a bonfire
with sausages and hot wine/or tea (you can bring
along your own vodka). They can tailor a tour to your
requirements, taking in, for example, the Kazimierz
Castle ruins. Rides take approximately one hour,
prices depend on the number in your party, and
excursions are available whenever there’s snow on
the ground. English speaking staff is available, so
give them a call to make arrangements.QM-2, Os.
Niepodległości 3a/5a (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12
681 36 92, www.ecotravel.pl.
STADNINA PODSKALANY
In addition to horse riding lessons, ‘natural
horsemanship’ instruction and trail riding, this
outfit offers sleigh rides for all ages from the first
winter snowfall until spring arrives. Located about
10km northwest of Kraków, rides are conducted
through the enchanting forests and valleys of
the Jura Highland and can include bonfires with
grilled sausage. Call to arrange times and cost.Qul.
Podskalany 61, Tomaszowice, tel. (+48) 606 91 50
09, www.stadnina.podskalany.pl.
© Mariusz Niedzwiedzki / dollarphotoclub
February - March 2016 117 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Leisure
FLOATARIUM
Experience a new level of relaxation in this sensory
depravation chamber. Floating in total darkness and silence
with no outside stimuli whatsoever, in water that is the
same exact temperature as your body, allows your mind to
relax in a way it never has before, enabling deep meditation.
Try it out, and if you don’t like it they’ll actually give you a
full refund. A 60min session is 120zł and booking 24 hours
in advance is recommended (though walk-ins are welcome
Mon-Sat 13:00 - 19:00).QD-7, Pl. Wolnica 4, tel. (+48) 787
78 87 77, www.floatarium.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00.
THAI SMILE MASSAGE
Treat yourself to a range of therapeutic Thai massages
performed by certified masseuses that will leave you
feeling energised and balanced. If you’ve never had
an authentic Thai massage, this is your chance - it’s an
incredible experience, and can be a fun thing to do with
a friend, partner or family member. Most massages are
done in loose, non-constraining clothes to make you
as comfortable as possible, and incorporate aspects of
Thai traditional medicine, acupressure, yoga and even
Buddhism. Give it a try and discover the wonder of getting
an invigorating full body workout without doing a thing.
QD-6, ul. Krakowska 3 lok. 1, tel. (+48) 531 90 59 65,
www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
VANILLA SPA
This luxurious spa in the centre of the five-star Niebieski Hotel
is a palace of pampering for your mind and body thanks to a
variety of holistic treatments in relaxing environs. Spoil your
skin through a series of peels and masks using top of the line
cosmetics and munch on organic ‘bio snacks’ courtesy of the
Vanilla Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam bath,
and massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation to have
their experts create your own personal care programme.
QH-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski & Spa), tel. (+48)
12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE
Improve blood and limphatic
circulation, release physical and mental
tension, strengthen the immune
system, improve joint flexibility and
remove toxins from your body with
an authentic Thai massage, performed
solely by highly qualified Thai
masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The
offer includes classical Thai massage, herbal compresses,
oil massages, feet and legs reflexology, back, shoulder
and head massages, and more. Receive a 10% discount
when you present In Your Pocket.QE-4, ul. Dietla 103/2,
tel. (+48) 12 422 65 49, www.tajskimasaz.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. Massages 100-300zł.
www.Thai-Smile.pl
+48 531 905 965
Kraków, Krakowska 3/1
TRADITIONAL THAI MASSAGE
10% off on 1h massage with this guide
@KrakowIYP
118 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Sometimes you have to suffer for your art, and this outdoor gallery on ul. Pijarska (C-2) will withstand withering temps to reach an audience.
WHAT TO BUY IN POLAND
ALCOHOL: Vodka (see p.44) is a given and alcohol
shops are in plentiful supply, but try the flavourful
infusions at Szambelan (p.119), or miód pitny (mead)
if the straight stuff isn’t to your taste.
AMBER: Though far from the Baltic Sea, Kraków was a
major stop on the Amber Road and you’ll find jewellery
made from this fossilised resin all over town (p.119).
BOLESŁAWIEC POTTERY: The hand-painted folk
patterns of Poland’s popular ceramic brand are beloved
internationally and make a great gift for anyone with a
kitchen. Head to Dekor Art (p.121).
FOODSTUFFS: The Poles absolutely love putting food
into jars and the best place to pick up handsomely
packed local delicacies is Krakowski Kredens (p.121).
GRAPHIC ART: PL has a rich tradition of graphic art,
and Kraków’s poster gallery - Galeria Plakatu (p.119) -
is a great place to peruse and purchase it.
LITERATURE: Kraków is a UNESCO City of Literature,
and boasts Massolit (p.120) - one of the best English-
language bookshops in Central Europe, with a great
selection of Polish literature, as well tomes on Polish
history and Jewish Studies.
Shopping
While Kraków can hardly be considered a shoppers’
paradise in the traditional sense, its artsy reputation
makes it a great place to pick up antiques, artwork and
jewellery. Areas of note include Kazimerz and the open
air markets - particularly Plac Targowy (E-4), while
the Cloth Hall (open roughly 09:00 - 18:00, C-3) in the
middle of the market square is obvious for typical local
souvenirs. For the generic western experience you can hit
one of the shopping malls we list, however throughout
this section we’ve made a concentrated effort to focus
not on recognised, international brands and franchises,
but unique, home-grown businesses; so we encourage
you to put your money where their mouth is. As this is PL,
remember many shops close early on Saturday and take
Sunday off altogether.
ALCOHOL
REGIONALNE ALKOHOLE
Kraków’s best, most diverse alcohol shop - ideal for an
education in Polish vodkas and the exploding Polish
craft beer movement. The selection of mostly-Polish
brews reaches up to 300(!) and there are literally
hundreds of vodkas and other quality Polish spirits to
whet your palette, plus a knowledgeable staff to make
deciding all the easier.QE-6, ul. Miodowa 28a, tel.
(+48) 533 59 33 35, www.regionalnealkohole.com.
Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00.
February - March 2016 119 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Shopping
SZAMBELAN
A huge selection of special vodkas, meads and Polish
absinthes decanted from enormous Erlenmeyer flasks. The
exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts which they can
ship for you, or go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle and
stuffing it in your luggage (or strolling the Planty). Sample
first, sample often.QC-3, ul. Gołębia 2 (entrance from ul.
Bracka 9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.pl.
Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
AMBER
Herbal vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland.
Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and
coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without
bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself
a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin is the Cloth
Hall (open 09:00 - 17:00) in the centre of the market square,
where prices are surprisingly competitive, or visit any of the
many galleries around the Old Town.
AMBER MUSEUM & LABORATORY
QC-3, ul. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 601 82 46 46, www.
ambermuseum.eu. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
WORLD OF AMBER
Also at ul. Floriańska 13 and 22 (C-3), and ul. Powiśle 7
(Sheraton Kraków, A-5).QC-4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12
430 21 14, www.worldofamber.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
ART & GRAPHICS
Art abounds in Kraków, and in addition to the galleries
proliferating the Old Town, local artists shop their work
to tourists right on the market square, and along ul.
Pijarska on either side of the Floriańska Gate (C/D-2).
ANDRZEJ MLECZKO GALLERY
These anti-establishment, often blasphemous, damn funny
cartoons by Poland’s favourite cartoonist and Kraków native
Andrzej Mleczko are bound to remind you of someone you
know. Ideal for Polish friends and family, but many of the
cartoons are universal enough to make great presents
and souvenirs for anyone on your list, and can be bought
as original prints, or printed on mugs, shirts, bedding sets,
posters and more.QC-2, ul. Św. Jana 14, tel. (+48) 12 421
71 04, www.sklep.mleczko.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
GALERIA PLAKATU (POSTER GALLERY)
Poland has a proud tradition of graphic poster art for film
and theatre. Here you can browse binders of designs for
different plays, various propaganda and alternative film
posters you never knew existed for your favourite flicks.
Many are in stock and many more available to order. They
make fantastic gifts and keepsakes, or go cheap by buying
a stack of unusual postcards.QC-3, ul. Stolarska 8-10, tel.
(+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergallery.com.
Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
www.globalblue.com
The Global Blue Card
Your Passport to Great Savings,
The World Over (more information at gb’s website)
1. You are a non-EU traveler
2. In the shop you spent a minimum of 200 PLN
3. You export the purchased goods
outside of the EU
YOU CAN USE THE TAX FREE
SHOPPING SERVICE
120 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
FASHION & ACCESSORIES
FORUM MODY
Intent on familiarising yourself with cutting edge Polish
fashion design? This large boutique on the ground floor
of the ultra-hip Forum Hotel is the real deal. Here you’ll
find over 50 stalls exclusively showcasing Polish designers
and brands, including clothing, jewellery, accessories and
home design. Added bonuses include the adjacent Forum
Designu home accessories showroom, and the Forum
Przestrzenie bar and restaurant, where you’ll find many
of these projects being worn by the urban hipsters that
populate the place.QI-4, ul. Konopnickiej 28 (Forum
Hotel), tel. (+48) 604 05 64 77. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun
11:00 - 17:00.
IDEA FIX CONCEPT STORE
The ‘idea’ here is promoting contemporary, young,
independent Polish artists and designers - and for once
we’re not talking about painted angels or folk pottery. This
shop is straight Soho (NYC) with an alternative urban chic
style and attitude that will hopefully encourage Kraków’s
hundreds of DJs to pick up their duds somewhere other
than H&M. Championing sustainable consumption, drop
in this expansive and sexy 230m2 concept store just off
Plac Wolnica to check out clothing and accessories by
independent local designers, Polish films and music, Polish
fibre arts, interior design and more.QE-7, ul. Bocheńska
7, tel. (+48) 12 422 12 46, www.ideafix.pl. Open 11:00 -
19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
FOOD & SWEETS
CRACOW CHOCOLATE FACTORY
Wall-length street-front windows with a view into
the Wonka-esque workshop lure tourists inside this
enormous 2-floor old-school chocolatier that includes
an immaculate shop/showroom and upstairs cafe. With
delicious handmade treats in every direction - truffles,
pralines, chocolate bars, postcards, figurines and more -
Cracow Chocolate Factory perfectly captures that ‘kid in a
candyshop’ excitement, and is great for dodging the rain,
spoiling the sweet tooth of a date or picking up souvenirs.
QB-3, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48) 502 09 07 65, www.
chocolate.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
DELIKATESY 13
Located in the basement of Kraków’s nicest, most central
shopping mall, this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range
of high-quality edible goods including over 100 varieties
of Italian cheese and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking
oils and balsamic vinagrettes, as well as delicious locally-
made preservative free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and
cakes are also made daily. The ideal place to go if you’re
planning an intimate dinner part, Delikatesy 13 is packed
with outstanding goods, and the adjacent wine shop offers
a top selection.QC-3, Rynek Główny 13 (Pasaż 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 27, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
BOOKS IN ENGLISH
AUSTERIA
Situated in the historical High Synagogue, Austeria
is the largest Jewish bookstore in Kraków, offering
literature, history, guide books and more in a number
of languages, plus music CDs and tourist information.
Upstairs is a gallery space showing revolving historical
exhibits related to Judaica in Kraków. Admission to the
exhibit 9/6zł, children under 10 free.QE-6, ul. Józefa
38 (High Synagogue), tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89, www.
austeria.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
MASSOLIT BOOKS & CAFÉ
The best English-language bookstore in Central Europe,
owing in large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With
books on all subjects and specialising in Polish, East
European and Jewish literature in English, here you’ll
also find recent English language periodicals (store
copies) to peruse over coffee and a slice of pie, or even
a glass of wine. Stocked with remaindered books from
the States, the selection is surprisingly good, and the
prices are the best you’ll find anywhere. This legendary
establishment has been long-running but constantly
needs and deserves support. Still if you’re on a budget
you can trade the novel you finished on the train for
credit towards a new one. Also look for their bakery
nearby at ul. Smolensk 17 (A-4).QA-4, ul. Felicjanek
4, tel. (+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
MATRAS
Boasting the UNESCO-condoned claim of ‘Europe’s first
bookshop,’ the building at Rynek 23 has been in the
book business, almost without pause, since 1610. Run
by the Silesia-based Matras company since 1998, the
interior includes a handsome cafe and reading room,
and is full of author-portraits and autographs from
lettered luminaries who have been guests of this literary
space, which Carlos Fuentes called ‘The Cathedral of
the Book.’ Their English section isn’t great, but carries a
decent selection of Polish authors in translation, as well
as popular titles.QC-3, Rynek Główny 23, tel. (+48)
12 422 60 89, www.matras.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Massolit
February - March 2016 121 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Shopping
KOPERNIK
A traditional dating back to the 15th century, Toruń
gingerbread is world-renowned and you can purchase
their range of novelty sweets in Kraków at this enticing
shop.QC-4, ul. Grodzka 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 13 06,
www.kopernik.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00.
KRAKOWSKI KREDENS
An old-fashioned dry goods store of expensive, yet
exquisite, Galician delicacies - including jams, honeys,
liquors, cured meats, candies and pickled things. This
is the perfect place to pick up handsomely packaged,
unequivocally Cracovian consumable goodies, and, when
available, a warm roll with their sliced pork and mustard
from the street-side window is actually a gourmet street
food bargain at only 5-9zł (depending on weight). Also in
Galeria Krakowska.QC-3, ul. Grodzka 7, tel. (+48) 696 49
00 12, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
CLOTH HALL (SUKIENNICE)
Your best and easiest bet for gifts in Kraków. Essentially
the world’s oldest shopping mall, inside this architectural
marvel in the middle of the market square you’ll find
dozens of stalls selling amber jewellery, lacework, cloth
handicrafts, wood carvings, sheepskin rugs and all sorts
of Polish souvenirs and trinkets at prices that are actually
more reasonable than you’d anticipate.QC-3, Rynek
Główny 1/3. Open 09:00 - 18:00, but really it’s up to the
vendors.
DEKOR ART
If you’re not familiar with this well-loved folk ceramic brand,
head here straightaway to get introduced. Crammed full
of colourful tableware with simple, hand-painted and
highly-recognisable folk motifs, this bargain shop is sure
to help you make someone on your list happy.QC-2, ul.
Sławkowska 11, tel. (+48) 515 45 29 69. Open 10:00 -
19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
KACPER RYX
One of Kraków’s most interesting gift stores, this small
“historical shop” skips the kitsch, instead offering a wide
variety of high-quality, hand-made, history-based craft
work. Enter via the same door as the Hipolit House
museum, and step into what a gift shop may have
looked like centuries ago, if there were such a thing:
shelves and tables stocked with swords, armour and
weaponry; leather flasks, pouches and bags; historical
wood-prints and archaeological replicas; beer steins,
goblets and pottery; cowls, dresses and other medieval
apparel. Prices are fair and items are nicer than much
of what you’ll find in the Cloth Hall. Recommended.
QC-3, Pl. Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 426 45 49, www.
kacperryx.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00,
Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
BUTIK LCS - BALENCIAGA, CÉLINE, CHLOÉ,
DSQUARED2, GFF FERRÉ, GIVENCHY, GUCCI,
JIMMY CHOO, JOHN GALLIANO, STELLA
McCARTNEY, YVES SAINT LAURENT, VIKTOR&ROLF,
ANDRÉ GRAND - COLETTI, CERRUTI 1881,
THOMPSON LONDON, VERSACE, BAGATT,
DIESEL, DIAMANTI, IPM DESIGN - MULHOLLAND
LIFE, PURE, KISS THE FROG, D.EFECT, MELISSA,
L’OCCITANE, LOOKBOOK MOKOBELLE, LOUVE
WITH EVOLUE – MOKOBELLE, ROBERT KUPISZ,
PAPROCKI&BRZOZOWSKI, GOSIA BACZYŃSKA,
ŁUKASZ JEMIOŁ, 303 AVENUE, NATALIA
JAROSZYŃSKA, WESTWOOD EYEWEAR, MAGGIE
PIU, MANIEWSKI HAIR&BODY, NESPRESSO,
TUTTI COLORI - MONALISA, CARAMELLA,
MINI MELLISA, BUNNY WHITE, VINICIO PAJARO,
LCONCEPT 13 - BAR & RESTAURANT 13,
DELIKATESY 13, VINOTEKA 13
www.pasaz-13.pl www.concept13.pl
MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13
OPEN: 9 AM - 9 PM; 11 AM - 5 PM
122 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
ROCK SHOP
You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe,
and is there anything which says ‘I’ve been there’ more than
a Hard Rock t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the ‘Kraków’ tee to add
to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St.
Mary’s Basilica. Classic white costs 99zł, black 115zł, but
the memory of buying it - priceless. Enjoy sales on most
merchandise throughout February and March.QC-3,
Rynek Główny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55,
www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
STAINED GLASS MUSEUM SHOP
Kraków’s Stained Glass Museum is also a great place to pick
up some beautiful and unique souvenirs. All of the stained
glass pieces on sale were made right here in the workshop
using the same techniques that have been employed for
centuries. Each piece is handsomely packed and includes
an official certificate of authenticity, as well as a special
holder so you can display it anywhere in your home.QH-3,
Al. Krasińskiego 23, tel. (+48) 512 93 79 79, stainedglass.
pl. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
HOME & DESIGN
FORUM DESIGNU
The very fashionable and trendy Forum Hotel makes a
suitable location for this large, spacious showroom for
Polish interior design and home accessories. Though some
European firms are represented, the emphasis here is on
unique local design using sustainable production methods,
and the result is a gorgeous sales boutique. An added bonus
is the neighbouring Forum Mody fashion showroom, and
together they organise numerous design fairs, workshops
and other events throughout the year.QI-4, ul. Konopnickiej
28 (Forum Hotel), tel. (+48) 604 05 64 77, www.
forumdesignu.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
SHOPPING MALLS
BONARKA CITY CENTER
Located just beyond the limits of the IYP map (imaginary
coordinates K-6), Bonarka offers 91,000m2 of retail space
with 240 shops including Auchan, Leroy Merlin, Media
MARKETS
PLAC NOWY
This historic square was a Jewish market in the pre-war
days, with its rotunda serving as a kosher slaughterhouse.
Today you’ll still find butcher shops inside, while fast
food windows line the exterior. In the open trading
stalls surrounding the roundhouse produce and junk
are sold daily, but in the mornings you never know what
you’ll find: Saturdays are junk/antiques, on Sundays it’s
all clothing, while Friday mornings it’s a full-on pigeon
fair (get there early, it’s usually over by 09:00). Markets
begin around 07:00 and generally end by early to mid-
afternoon, depending. In the evenings, Plac Nowy turns
into one of the best drinking destinations in town, lined
with atmospheric bars.QD-6, tel. (+48) 12 422 25 59,
www.placnowy.pl.
PLAC TARGOWY UNITARG
Known locally as ‘Hala Targowa,’ this is the city’s best
outdoor market. Open every day with everything
from fruit, flowers and produce to pirated DVDs,
dodgy underwear and cheap wristwatches, Sunday
is undoubtedly the best, but also the most crazy
day of the week at Hala Targowa, when it becomes
a sprawling full-blown flea market of Old World
antiques, Catholic icons, village detritus, vinyl records,
war memorabilia, mismatched shoes, stolen bikes and
pretty much anything you can dream of at negotiable
prices. Different vendors set their own hours, but
on weekends most are here shortly after dawn and
packing up anytime between 14:00 and sunset. At
night on Plac Targowy you’ll find two 24-hour alcky
shops and the best grilled kielbasa in town (open
20:00 - 03:00, closed Sun), sold from a van.QE-4, ul.
Grzegórzecka, tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55, www.unitarg.
krakow.pl.
STARY KLEPARZ
A tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered
marketplace just north of the Barbican offers bargain
prices and the best selection in the city for local
produce, fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices,
socks, sweaters and whatever oddball commodities
are the order of the day during your visit.QC/D-1,
Rynek Kleparski 20, tel. (+48) 12 634 15 32, www.
starykleparz.com. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 -
15:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00.
February - March 2016 123 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Shopping
Expert and 237 others, 20 restaurants and cafes, the
largest cinema complex in the city and 3,200 free parking
spaces. Built on the site of a former chemical plant - the
iconic smokestack of which remains - the heart of this ‘city
within a city’ features eight two-storey palm trees flanking
a fountain under a glass ceiling. To get there take buses
144, 173, 179 or 184 getting off at the ‘Bonarka’ stop.Qul.
Kamieńskiego 11 (Podgórze), tel. (+48) 12 298 60 00,
www.bonarkacitycenter.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
FACTORY OUTLET
15 minutes from the city centre, this outlet mall features 120
foreign and domestic brands - including Levi’s, Reserved,
Calzedonia, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen, Simple, Pepe
Jeans, New Balance and more - at 30-70% off the prices
you’d expect elsewhere. You can get there by catching a free
bus from Rondo Matecznego (I-5) or Plac Centralny (O-4).
Qul. Rożańskiego 32, Modlniczka, tel. (+48) 12 297 35 00,
krakow.factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA KAZIMIERZ
Opened in 2005, Galeria Kazimierz is still Kraków’s most
likeable shopping centre, boasting over 130 retail units
including media giants EMPiK and Euro RTV AGD, fashion
outfitters H&M, Zara and Simple, jewellers W. Kruk and
Swarovski, Alma supermarket, plus plenty of food options.
For recreational needs GK also touts a cinema and fitness
club. Easily accessed on foot, those arriving by car have
1,600 paid parking spaces to pick from.QJ-3, ul. Podgórska
34, tel. (+48) 12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl.
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA KRAKOWSKA
Hard to miss since it’s been sneakily incorporated into the
train station, making it one of the most centrally located
shopping malls in Europe. Covering 60,000m2 over 3 floors,
stores include H&M, Peek & Cloppenburg, Saturn, Carrefour
and over 260 other retail units, 1400 parking spaces, and
a bustling food court. The mall and large square in front
of it also host frequent exhibits and events, contributing
to the revival of this once-dodgy area.QD-1, ul. Pawia 5,
tel. (+48) 12 428 99 00, www.galeriakrakowska.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
PASAŻ 13
This gorgeous old Rynek townhouse was converted into a
snazzy upscale shopping area in 2005 to become the first
branch of the trademark Likus Concept Stores. Much nicer
than your typical shopping mall, Pasaż 13 has over a dozen
designer shops to peruse, plus a fine Italian delicatessen
and the Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant in the cellar, which
have their own hours.QC-3, Rynek Główny 13, tel. (+48)
12 617 02 12, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 17:00.
Full contents online:
krakow.inyourpocket.com
124 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Directory
24HR PHARMACIES
APTEKA DBAM O ZDROWIE
QI-5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel. (+48) 12 656 18 50, www.
doz.pl.
APTEKA POD OPATRZNOŚCIĄ
QB-2, ul. Karmelicka 23, tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.
24HR SHOPS
ALBI MARKET
QB-3, ul. Podwale 6.
CARREFOUR EXPRESS
QD-6, ul. Dietla 40, www.carrefour.pl.
SPARQA-1, ul. Karmelicka 47.
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
Currency exchange offices (‘Kantor’) are easy to find
in Kraków, but as with any international destination,
it’s imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t
getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never
change your money at city entry points, particularly
at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To
help put your mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve
vetted local exchange offices for you and assembled a
list of well-located kantors that won’t rip you off, and
don’t take a commission. In Kraków’s Old Town, you’ll
find kantors all along ul. Floriańska (C-2/3), but it’s two
streets over on ul. Sławkowska (C-2) that you’ll find
better, more competitive prices - this is the best place
to go rate hunting near the market square.
KANTORQD-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska),
tel. (+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
KANTORQJ-3, ul. Podgórska 34 (Galeria
Kazimierz), tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. Open 10:00 -
22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
KANTOR CFSQD-2, ul. Pawia 12, tel. (+48) 12 430
33 33. Open 24hrs.
KANTOR GROSZQC-2, ul. Sławkowska 4, tel.
(+48) 12 421 78 22. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Sun.
CONSULATES & EMBASSIES
DENMARKQB-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73
80, www.nordichouse.pl.
FINLANDQB-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
GERMANYQC-3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30
00, www.krakau.diplo.de.
HUNGARYQE-2, ul. Lubicz 17 H, tel. (+48) 12 359 99 20.
ICELANDQB-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
INSTYTUT FRANCUSKIQC-4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel.
(+48) 12 424 53 50, www.cracovie.org.pl.
JAPANQI-2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43
59, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp.
MEXICOQul. Wiedeńska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 505
03 49 49.
NORWAYQK-2, ul. Mosiężnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 633 03
76, www.amb-norwegia.pl.
RUSSIAQB-1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47,
www.krakow.mid.ru/web/krakow_pl/glowna.
SLOVAKIAQD-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425
49 70, www.cgcracow.mfa.sk.
SWEDENQB-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
UKRAINEQK-2, Al. Beliny-Prażmowskiego 4, tel. (+48)
12 429 60 66, krakow.mfa.gov.ua.
USAQC-3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00,
krakow.usconsulate.gov.
DENTISTS
DENTA-MED
Also at ul. Św. Gertrudy 4 (D-4) and ul. Augustiańska 13 (D-7) -
both open 08:00 - 21:00).QJ-4, ul. Na Zjeździe 13, tel. (+48)
12 259 80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl. Open 24hrs..
DENTESTETICA
QJ-1, ul. Kamienna 21, tel. (+48) 887 05 05 83, www.
dentestetica.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
EMERGENCY ROOM
MILITARY CLINICAL HOSPITAL NO. 5
QI-1, ul. Wrocławska 1-3, tel. (+48) 12 630 81 40,
www.5wszk.com.pl.
UNIVERSITY HOSPITALQJ-2, ul. Kopernika 50, tel.
(+48) 12 351 66 01, www.su.krakow.pl.
February - March 2016 125 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Directory
LAUNDRY
FRANIA CAFE
Kraków’s first and only laundromat cafe, let them do it for
you, or wash it yourself, while enjoying wifi, boardgames,
coffee, beer and booze from the bar.QE-5, ul. Starowiślna
26, tel. (+48) 783 94 50 21, www.franiacafe.pl. Open
10:30 - 24:00. 6 G S W
PEPE PRALNIA
A high-quality self-service laundromat right in the centre
of Kazimierz, this family company has great prices, and
other locations at ul. Długa 58 (I-1) and al. Jana Pawła II 82
(AWF).QD-6, ul. Dietla 51, tel. (+48) 666 11 11 19, www.
pepepralnia.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.
POST OFFICES
POCZTA POLSKA
QD/E-2, ul. Lubicz 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 91 68, www.
poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.
POCZTA POLSKAQD-4, ul. Westerplatte 20, tel. (+48)
12 421 44 89, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:30,
Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
PRIVATE CLINICS
ARS MEDICAQD-1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12
423 38 34, www.ars-medica.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
MEDICOVER
Also ul. Bora Komorowskiego 25B (Prądnik Czerwony, open
from 07:00 Mon-Fri), ul. Bobrzyńskiego 37 (Dębniki, same
hours as listed here).QK-3, ul. Podgórska 36, tel. (+48)
500 90 05 00, www.medicover.pl. Open 07:30 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
RELIGIOUS SERVICES
CHRIST THE KING CHURCH
English masses are held each Sunday at 10:30 in this
Evangelical church outside the Old Town.QK-2, ul.
Mogilska 43, tel. (+48) 509 50 16 39, www.kchk.pl.
ST. BARBARA’S
Holy Mass in German each Sunday at 14:30.QC-3, Mały
Rynek 8, tel. (+48) 12 428 15 00, www.swbarbara.jezuici.pl.
ST. FRANCIS’ BASILICA
Masses in Italian held every Sunday at 15:30, and in Spanish
every second Sunday of the month at 14:30.QC-4, Pl.
Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76, www.
franciszkanska.pl.
ST. GILES CHURCH
Holy Mass in English each Sunday at 10:30.QC-5, ul.
Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl.
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126 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Hotels
CREAM OF THE CROP
COPERNICUS
QC-5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 34 00, www.
hotel.com.pl. 29 rooms (4 singles, 17 doubles, 8 suites).
P H 6 F L K D C hhhhh
GRAND
QC-2, ul. Sławkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424 08 00,
www.grand.pl. 64  rooms (55  singles, 45  doubles,
9 apartments). P H 6 U F L K D hhhhh
GRÓDEK
QD-3, ul. Na Gródku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30, www.
donimirski.com. 23  rooms (21  singles, 18  doubles,
2 suites). P H 6 U L K D hhhhh
HOLIDAY INN KRAKOW CITY CENTER
QD-4, ul. Wielopole 4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www.
hik.krakow.pl. 237  rooms (236  singles, 236  doubles,
1  Presidential Apartment). P H 6 U F K
hhhhh
HOTEL STARY
QC-2, ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384 08 08, www.
hotel.com.pl. 53  rooms (8  singles, 34  doubles, 4  suites,
6 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). P H 6 U F L 
K D X C w hhhhh
15
th
century mansion apartments with castle views (Kanonicza 22, p.131)? Welcome to Kraków...
No matter your budget, thanks to Kraków’s ascent into
elite status as a European destination, there is no lack of
accommodation options in this fabled city. From fancy
5-star affairs to familiar franchises, boutiques to bed and
breakfasts, historic apartments to some 60-odd hostels -
you certainly shouldn’t struggle to find yourself a place to
sleep. On our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - we
list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and
around Kraków, with full descriptive reviews, photos, reader
comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space
constraints in our print guide no longer allow us to include
all of that content here as we once did, however we still
provide an updated list of reputable hotels, apartments and
hostels below. Sleep well.
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted
F Fitness centre H Conference facilities
K Restaurant U Facilities for the disabled
D Sauna L Guarded parking on site
6 Animal friendly w Wellness
C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available
February - March 2016 127 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Hotels
KOMOROWSKI LUXURY GUEST ROOMS
QC-1, ul. Długa 7, tel. (+48) 505 98 93 71, www.
hotelkomorowski.com. 7  rooms (7  singles, 7  doubles).
P
NIEBIESKI ART HOTEL & SPA
QH-3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. (+48) 12 297 40 00, www.
niebieski.com.pl. 40  rooms (38  singles, 38  doubles,
2 apartments). P H 6 U F K D w hhhhh
RADISSON BLU
QB-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 12 618 88
88, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-krakow. 196  rooms
(142  singles, 142  doubles, 19  apartments, 35  Business
Class Rooms). P H 6 U F K D w hhhhh
SHERATON KRAKÓW
QA-5, ul. Powiśle 7, tel. (+48) 12 662 10 00, www.
sheraton.pl/krakow. 232  rooms (221  singles,
221 doubles, 10 suites, 1 Presidential Wawel Apartment).
P H 6 U F K D X C hhhhh
UPMARKET
AMADEUS
QD-3, ul. Mikołajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60 70, www.
hotel-amadeus.pl. 22  rooms (20  singles, 20  doubles,
2 apartments). P H U F L K D hhhh
AMBER BOUTIQUE HOTELS
QB-2, ul. Garbarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 06, www.
hotel-amber.pl. 38  rooms (17  singles, 29  doubles,
8 triples, 6 suites). P H 6 U F D
ANDEL’S HOTEL CRACOW
QD-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12 660 01 00, www.
andelscracow.com. 159 rooms (153 singles, 153 doubles,
6 apartments). P H 6 U F K D hhhh
FRANCUSKI
QC-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31, www.
hotel-francuski.com.pl. 42 rooms (4 singles, 23 doubles,
15 apartments). H 6 F K hhhh
GALAXY
QK-3, ul. Gęsia 22a, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00, www.
galaxyhotel.pl. 205  rooms (200  singles, 200  doubles,
50  triples, 5  suites). P H U F L K D X C w
hhhh
HILTON GARDEN INN KRAKÓW
QI-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00,
www.hgi.com. 154  rooms (147  singles, 147  doubles,
7 apartments). P H 6 U F K hhhh
HILTON GARDEN INN KRAKÓW AIRPORT
Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 3, tel. (+48) 12 340 00 00,
www.hiltoneasteurope.com. 155  rooms (152  singles,
152 doubles, 3 apartments). P H U F K hhhh
128 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Hotels
HOTEL KOSSAK
QA-5, Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 379 59 00, www.
hotelkossak.pl. 60  rooms (55  singles, 55  doubles,
5 apartments). P H 6 U F K D X hhhh
HOTEL RUBINSTEIN
QE-6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48) 12 384 00 00, www.
rubinstein.pl. 28 rooms (23 singles, 19 doubles, 5 suites).
P H K hhhh
HOTEL UNICUS
QC-2, ul. Św. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12 433 71 11, www.
hotelunicus.pl. 35  rooms (12  singles, 23  doubles,
1 apartment). P H L K D hhhh
MATEJKO
QD-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37, www.
matejkohotel.pl. 51  rooms (48  singles, 45  doubles,
3 apartments). H 6 U K hhh
PARK INN BY RADISSON KRAKOW
QA-7, ul. Monte Cassino 2, tel. (+48) 12 375 55 55, www.
parkinn.com/hotel-krakow. 152  rooms (152  singles,
152 doubles). P H 6 U F K D w hhhh
POD RÓŻĄ (UNDER THE ROSE)
QC-3, ul. Floriańska 14, tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www.lhr.
com.pl. 57 rooms (50 singles, 37 doubles, 7 apartments).
P H 6 F K D hhhh
POLSKI POD BIAŁYM ORŁEM
QC-2, ul. Pijarska 17, tel. (+48) 12 422 11 44, www.
donimirski.com. 60  rooms (30  singles, 22  doubles,
5 triples, 3 suites). P H 6 U hhh
PURO HOTEL KRAKÓW
QD-1, ul. Ogrodowa 10, tel. (+48) 12 314 21 00, www.
purohotel.pl. 138  rooms (131  singles, 131  doubles,
7 suites). P H 6 U K hhhh
QUBUS HOTEL KRAKÓW
QJ-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6, tel. (+48) 12 374 51 00, www.
qubushotel.com. 194  rooms (183  singles, 170  doubles,
10  suites, 1  apartment). P H 6 U F K D C
hhhh
SENACKI
QC-4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 86, www.
hotelsenacki.pl. 20  rooms (20  singles, 16  doubles,
2 suites). P H 6 U F L K hhhh
WENTZL
QC-3, Rynek Główny 19, tel. (+48) 12 430 26 64, www.
wentzl.pl. 18  rooms (18  singles, 18  doubles, 8  triples).
P 6 L K hhhh
/polandinyourpocket
BŁONIA MEADOW
A massive and inexplicably undeveloped tract of
greenery directly west of the Old Town, the Błonia is
a huge, triangular open space measuring nearly 50
hectares. Technically a park, although lacking any trees
or other defining characteristics, the Polish name ‘Błonie’
denotes a ‘meadow’ - something of an amiable linguistic
redressing of the Błonia’s true and unchanged historical
function: it’s a cow pasture. The area’s ability to survive
to modern times as the largest city centre open space
in Europe can be credited to a perfect storm of boggy
undesirability, a centuries-long ownership dispute, and
finally a medieval legislative wrinkle. Used by locals to
graze cattle even midway into the 20
th
century, when
the now-defunct Cracovia Hotel was built next to it in
1965 the city moved to permanently ban unfashionable
bovines from the Błonia, only to find themselves
obstructed by an apparently still legally binding 14
th

century decree by Queen Jadwiga which they would
have to sort out with Warsaw. Warsaw not being the
most cooperative or expedient bureaucratic partner in
those times, city council decided to stick with the status
quo, making it perfectly acceptable for you to air old
Bessie on the Błonia to this day. Though a great idea
for a city-wide one day annual event (called ‘Bovines
on the Błonia’ - make it happen, Mr. Mayor), these days
the green triangle has primarily become the favourite
leisure space of dogs and their frisbee chasing, ball
playing owners, while the perimeter is a popular track
for cycling, running and roller-blading; in winter it hosts
cross-country skiers and an ice rink. Protected as a
National Heritage Site since 2000, the Błonia is ideal for
large-scale outdoor events, hosting numerous concerts,
rallies and - most notably - historic open air masses by
the Pope during his visits to Kraków.QG-3.
February - March 2016 129 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Hotels
MID-RANGE
ASCOT HOTEL
QE-3, ul. Radziwiłłowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 384 06 06,
www.hotelascot.pl. 49  rooms (49  singles, 36  doubles,
7 triples, 2 quads). P H 6 U hhh
AUTOMOBIL HOTEL
Qul. Płk. Dąbka 13, tel. (+48) 665 99 99 04, www.
automobilhotel.pl. 18  rooms (18  singles, 9  doubles,
1 triple, 2 suites). H U hhh
CAMPANILE
QD-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424 26 00, www.
campanile.com. 106  rooms (105  singles, 105  doubles,
43 triples, 1 suite). P H 6 U hhh
CHOPIN CRACOW
QK-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 00 00, www.
chopinhotel.com. 220  rooms (212  singles, 7  doubles,
1 apartment). P H 6 U F K D hhh
CLASSIC
QD-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03 03,
www.hotel-classic.pl. 31 rooms (26 singles, 26 doubles,
3 triples, 5 apartments). P 6 U X hhh
DOMUS MATERQL-5, ul. Saska 2C, tel. (+48) 12 290
63 01, www.domusmater.pl. 41  rooms (37  singles,
37 doubles, 4 suites). H U K
EDEN
QE-6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65, www.
hoteleden.pl. 27 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles, 5 triples,
2 suites). H 6 U D hhh
FLORYAN
QC-2, ul. Floriańska 38, tel. (+48) 12 431 14 18, www.
floryan.com.pl. 21  rooms (21  singles, 21  doubles,
8 triples, 3 quads). P H 6 K hhh
HOTEL KAZIMIERZ
QD-6, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 29, www.
hk.com.pl. 38  rooms (38  singles, 28  doubles, 2  triples).
P H 6 hhh
HOTEL KAZIMIERZ II
QE-5, ul. Starowiślna 60, tel. (+48) 12 426 80 70, www.
hk.com.pl. 25  rooms (25  singles, 23  doubles). H 6
hhh
IBIS KRAKÓW CENTRUM
QA-5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 33 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 175 rooms (175 singles, 175 doubles).
P J 6 U K hhh
vine.co/inyourpocket
130 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Hotels
As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow
just 5km from the Market Square, we ofer silence and
comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves
delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests
also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also
ofer a sauna and tanning bed.
Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Kraków
tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30
e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl
www.ruczajhotel.pl
Airconditioned suites,
Art Nouveau ambiance,
situated in the very heart of the Old Town...
ul. Szpitalna 30, 31-024 Kraków
Tel. +48 12 422 10 44, Fax: +48 12 422 13 89
rezerwacja@pollera.com.pl, www.pollera.com.pl
IBIS KRAKÓW STARE MIASTO
QJ-1, ul. Pawia 15, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 135  rooms (135  singles, 135  doubles,
16 triples). P H 6 U K hhh
KARMELQE-6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 00,
www.karmel.com.pl. 11  rooms (4  singles, 6  doubles,
1 suite). 6 K hhh
KAZIMIERZ ANNEX
QD-6, ul. Miodowa 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 29, www.
hk.com.pl. 11  rooms (11  singles, 11  doubles, 4  triples).
P 6 hhh
MALTAŃSKI
QB-4, ul. Straszewskiego 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 00 10,
www.donimirski.com. 16 rooms (16 singles, 14 doubles).
H 6 U L hhh
POD WAWELEM
QB-5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12 426 26 25, www.
hotelpodwawelem.pl. 48 rooms (47 singles, 42 doubles,
1 apartment). P H 6 U K D hhh
POLLERA
QD-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44, www.
pollera.com.pl. 42  rooms (31  singles, 24  doubles,
7 triples, 2 quads, 2 apartments). H 6 hhh
ROYAL
QC-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 35 00,
www.hotelewam.pl. 99  rooms (34  singles, 31  doubles,
12 triples, 9 quads, 10 suites, 3 apartments). P H 6 
U K hhh
RUCZAJ
Qul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00, www.ruczajhotel.
com.pl. 45  rooms (25  singles, 17  doubles, 12  triples,
4 quads, 4 suites). P H 6 U K D hhh
WAWEL
QC-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00, www.
hotelwawel.pl. 38  rooms (9  singles, 28  doubles,
1 apartment). P H K D w hhh
WIELOPOLE
QD-4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 14 75, www.
wielopole.pl. 35 rooms (9 singles, 27 doubles, 9 triples).
P 6 U K hhh
WYSPIAŃSKI
QD-3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 95 66,
www.hotel-wyspianski.pl. 231  rooms (150  singles,
109 doubles, 81 triples). H 6 U F L K hhh
youtube.com/inyourpocket
February - March 2016 131 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Hotels
BUDGET
IBIS BUDGET KRAKÓW STARE MIASTO
QJ-1, ul. Pawia 11, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 50, www.
accorhotels.com. 167 rooms (167 singles, 167 doubles).
P 6 U h
TOURNETQD-6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88,
www.accommodation.krakow.pl. 18  rooms (17  singles,
16 doubles, 10 triples). 6 K
HOSTELS
GOOD BYE LENIN PUB & GARDEN
QJ-3, ul. Joselewicza 23, tel. (+48) 12 421 20 30, www.
goodbyelenin.pl. 14  rooms (4  singles, 4  doubles,
62 dorm beds).
GREG & TOM BEER HOUSE
QC-2, ul. Floriańska 43, tel. (+48) 12 421 28 64, www.
gregtomhostel.com. 10 rooms (92 dorm beds). K
PINK PANTHER’S HOSTEL
QC-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 35, www.
pinkpanthershostel.com. 13 rooms (1 single, 6 doubles,
66 dorm beds).
SECRET GARDEN HOSTELQD-7, ul. Skawińska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 54 45, www.thesecretgarden.pl. 30 rooms
(30 singles, 30 doubles, 8 triples). 6 U
APARTMENTS
ANTON HOTEL ROOMS & APARTMENTS
Qtel. (+48) 720 88 33 80, www.antoncenter.pl.
10 rooms (10 apartments).
APARTMENT CRACOW
QC-2, ul. Floriańska 39, tel. (+48) 12 431 00 26, www.
apartmentcracow.com. 30  rooms (30  apartments).
6 U K
APARTMENTHOUSE GRODZKA
QC-3, ul. Grodzka 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 48 35, www.
grodzka.net.pl. 12 rooms (12 apartments). 6
B&B LA FONTAINE
QC-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 64, www.
bblafontaine.com. 11 rooms (11 apartments). K
KANONICZA 22
QC-5, ul. Kanonicza 22, tel. (+48) 603 95 13 77, www.
kanonicza22.com. 3 rooms (3 apartments). K
KRAKOW CITY APARTMENTS
QD-2, ul. Szpitalna 34, tel. (+48) 507 20 30 50, www.
krakowapartments.info. 15 rooms (15 apartments).
RED KURKA
QC-4, ul. Św. Gertrudy 5, tel. (+48) 535 91 91 35, www.
redkurka.com. 3 rooms (3 apartments). 6
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Schindler‘s
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Lipowa 3
National
Museum
J o r d a n P a r k
Kościuszko
Mound
Z
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Home Army
Rakowicki
Cemetery
Military
Cemetery
Botanical
Gardens
Jewish
Cemetery
Water Park
Cricoteka
Stained
Glass
MOCAK
Krakus
Mound
Bednar ski
Par k
New
Podgórze
Cemetery
Liban
Quarry
Fort Benedict
J
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s
k
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Galaxy
eee
view point
Jewish Ghetto
Jewish Cemetery
developed area
cinema
Etap
Hilton Garden
Forum
B
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F
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K
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Józefińska
Schindler‘s
Factory
Lipowa 3
National
Museum
J o r d a n P a r k
Kościuszko
Mound
Z
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c
k
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B
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D
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b
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P
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k
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B
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d
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Home Army
Rakowicki
Cemetery
Military
Cemetery
Botanical
Gardens
Jewish
Cemetery
Water Park
Cricoteka
Stained
Glass
MOCAK
Krakus
Mound
Bednar ski
Par k
New
Podgórze
Cemetery
Liban
Quarry
Fort Benedict
J
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r
o
z
o
l
i
m
s
k
a
Galaxy
eee
view point
Jewish Ghetto
Jewish Cemetery
developed area
cinema
Etap
Hilton Garden
Forum
B
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k
F
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Józefińska
Schindler‘s
Factory
Lipowa 3
National
Museum
J o r d a n P a r k
Kościuszko
Mound
Z
w
ie
rz
y
n
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c
k
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B
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D
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b
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c
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B
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P
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s
k
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B
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d
g
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Home Army
Rakowicki
Cemetery
Military
Cemetery
Botanical
Gardens
Jewish
Cemetery
Water Park
Cricoteka
Stained
Glass
MOCAK
Krakus
Mound
Bednar ski
Par k
New
Podgórze
Cemetery
Liban
Quarry
Fort Benedict
J
e
r
o
z
o
l
i
m
s
k
a
Galaxy
eee
view point
Jewish Ghetto
Jewish Cemetery
developed area
cinema
Europeum
History Museum
Szołayski
House
Town Hall
Tower
St. Anne’s
International
Congress Centre
Ibis
Centrum
Agrafka
Barbican
Floriańska
Gate
Słowacki
Academy
of Fine Arts
St. Florian’s
Cloth Hall
J. Mehoffer
House
St. Adalbert’s
Bishop’s
Palace
Hutten-Czapski
Geology
St. Francis
Sts. Peter & Paul
St. Andrew’s
St. Marcin’s
St. Ignacy’s
St. Bernard’s
Copernicus
Archdiocesan
Cathedral
Museum
Wawel
Cathedral
Royal
Castle
W a w e l
H i l l
Dragon’s Den
Manggha
Skałka
Ethnographic
St. Catherine’s
Corpus Christi
B
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F
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B
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id
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City Engineering
Temple
High
Old
Synagogue
Isaac
Ethnographic
Archaeology
St. Mary’s
St. Barbara’s
BLU
Plac
targowy
Aeroplatform
Jewish
Cemetery
140 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Street Register
29 Listopada, Al. J-1
3 Maja, Al. G/H-2/3
Akacjowa L-1
Akademicka H-2
Aliny L-1
Altanowa G-1
Ariańska J-2
Armii Krajowej, Al. F/G-1
Asnyka B-1/2
Augustiańska D-6-7
Bajeczna L-3
Bałuckiego A-6
Bandtkiego F-1
Bandurskiego K-1/2
Barska A/B-6/7
Bartosza E-6
Basztowa C/D-2
Batorego I-2
Beliny-Prażmowskiego, Al. K-1/2
Berka Joselewicza E-5
Bernardyńska B/C-5/6
Biała Droga H-4
Biernackiego H-1
Biskupia B-1
Blachnickiego, ks. J-3
Blich J-3
Bobrowskiego K-3
Boczna H-4
Bogusławskiego D-5
Bohomolca L-1
Bocheńska J-4
Bonerowska E-4
Bonifraterska D-7
Bora-Komorowskiego, gen. K/L-1
Borowego F-2
Bosacka E-1/2
Bożego Ciała D-6/7
Boznańskiej K-1
Bracka C-3/4
Brązownicza F-2
Brodowicza K-1/2
Bronowicka F/G-1
Brzozowa D-5
Bułhaka A-7
Buszka F/G-2
Bydgoska G-1/2
Bytomska H-1
Ceglarska H-5
Celna J-4
Chmielowskiego I/J-4
Chocimska H-1/2
Chodkiewicza J-3
Chodowieckiego G-2
Chopina H-2
Ciemna E-6
Cieszyńska I-1
Cicha F-1
Ćwiklowa F-5
Cybulskiego A-3
Cystersów L-2/3
Czapskich A-3
Czarnieckiego J-4
Czarnowiejska H-2
Czarodziejska G/H-4
Czysta A-2
Czyżówka J-5
Dąbrowskiego, gen. K-4
Dąbska L-2
Dajwór E-6
Daszyńskiego J-3/4
Dębnicka H-4
Dębowa A-7
Dekerta K-4
Dembowskiego J/K-5
Dietla C/E-4/6
Długa C-1
Długosza J-5
Dobrego Pasterza K/L-1
Dolnych Młynów A-2
Dominikańska C-4
Droga do Zamku B/C-5-6
Dunajewskiego B/C-2
Dworska H-4
Dzielskiego K/L-1
Estery D-6
Fabryczna L-2/3
Fałata H-3
Feldmana A-1
Felicjanek A-4
Fenn’a Sereno I-2
Filarecka H-3
Flisacka H-3/4
Floriańska C/D-2/3
Focha, Al. marsz. G/H-3
Franciszkańska B/C-4
Friedleina I-1
Galla G/H-1
Garbarska B-2
Garczyńskiego K-2
Garncarska H-2/3
Gazowa E-7
Gęsia K-3
Głowackiego G-1
Goetla G-2
Gołębia B-3
Gontyna G-3
Grabowskiego A-1
Gramatyka G-1
Grodzka C-3/5
Gromadzka L-4/5
Grottgera H/I-1
Grunwaldzka K-1/2
Gryfity G-3
Grzegórzecka E-4
Gzymsików I-1
Halicka J-3/4
Helclów I-1
Herlinga-Grudzińskiego K-4
Heweliusza L-5
Hofmana F-3
Humberta H-3
Igrców G-2
Ingardena H-3
Izaaka D/E-6
Jabłonowskich H/I-3
Jadwigi z Łobzowa F/G-1
Jagiellońska B-2/3
Jachowicza L-2
Jakuba E-6
Jaskółcza H-3
Joselewicza J-3
Józefa D/E-6
Józefitów H-1
Kadecka G-1
Kalwaryjska I/J-5
Kamienna I/J-1
Kamieńskiego I/J-5
Kanonicza C-4/5
Kapelanka H-4/5
Kapucyńska A/B-3
Karłowicza H-2
Karmelicka A/B-1/2
Kasztelańska G/H-3
Kazimierza Odnowiciela K-1
Kazimierza Wielkiego G/H-1
Kielecka K-1/2
Kiełkowskiego K/L-4
Kijowska, Al. G/H-1/2
Kilińskiego A-7
Klimeckiego K/L-4
Kmieca H-1
Kobierzyńska H-5
Kochanowskiego A-1/2
Koletek C-6
Kołłątaja E-3
Komandosów I-4/5
Konarskiego H-2
Konfederacka A-7
Konopnickiej A/B-5/7
Konwisarzy F-1/2
Kopernika D/E-3
Kordylewskiego K-2/3
Kościuszki H-3
Kosynierów L-2
Kotlarska K-3
Koźlarska L-5
Krakowska D-6/7
Krasickiego I-5
Krasińskiego, Al. H-3
Kraszewskiego H-3
Kredowa F-5
Kremerowska A-1
Królewska H-1
Królowej Jadwigi F/G-2/3
Krótka C-1
Krowoderska C-1
Krupnicza A/B-2/3
Krzemionki J-5
Krzesławicka L-1
Krzywa C-1
Krzywda L-4/5
ks. Kordeckiego C-6/7
Księcia Józefa F/G-4
Kujawska H-1
Kupa E-6
Kurkowa J-2
Kurniki D-1
Kwartowa L-1
Lanckorońska K-5
Lea F/H-1/2
Legionów Piłsudskiego J-4/5
Lenartowicza H/I-1/2
Leszczynowa F-3
Lewkowa E-6
Limanowskiego J/K-4
Lipowa K-4
Litewska H-1
Loretańska A-2/3
Lubelska I-1
Lubicz D/E-2
Lublańska K-1
Lubomirskiego J/K-2
Ludowa K-5
Ludwinowska I-4/5
Lwowska J-K/4
Łobzowska B-1/2
Madalińskiego A-6
Mała A-4
Malczewskiego F/G-3-4
Mały Rynek C-3
Masarska K-3
Matejki, Pl. I/J-2
Mazowiecka H/I-1
Meiselsa D-6
Metalowców E-3/4
Mickiewicza, Al. H-2
Michałowskiego A-1/2
Michałowskiego H/I-2
Mikołajska C/D-3
Miodowa D/E-5/6
Mitery I-5
Mlaskotów H-3
Młyńska K-1
Mogilska K/L-1/2
Moniuszki K-2
Monte Cassino A-7
Montelupich I-1
Mosiężnicza K-2
Mostowa D/E-7
Na Gródku D-3
Na Przejściu E-6
Na Szaniec L-3
Na Ustroniu I-4
Na Zjeździe J-4
Nadwislanska J-4
Nawojki G-2
Oboźna H-1
Odlewnicza F-1/2
Odrowąża I-1
Ofiar Dąbia L-3
Ogrodowa D-1
Oleandry H-2/3
Olszańska K-1
Orawska I-5
Orzeszkowej C-6/7
Owcy-Orwicza F-3
Paderewskiego C/D-1
Paproci L-4
Parkowa J-5
Patynów G-4
Paulińska C-6/7
Pawia D-1/2
Pawlickiego, ks. H-4/5
Pędzichów I-1/2
Piastowska F/G-1/3
Piekarska C/D-7
Pietrusińskiego G-4/5
Pijarów K/L-1
Pijarska C/D-2
Piłsudskiego A/B-3/4
Piwna J-4
Pl. Bawół E-6
Pl. Bernardyński C-5
Pl. Biskupi B/C-1
Pl. Bohaterów Getta J-4
Pl. gen. Sikorskiego A-3
Pl. Inwalidów H-2
Pl. Kossaka A-5
Pl. Mariacki C-3
Pl. Matejki D-1/2
Pl. Na Groblach B-4/5
Pl. Nowy D-6
Pl. Słowiański C-1
Pl. Serkowskiego J-4/5
Pl. Szczepański B-2
Pl. Św. Ducha D-2
Pl. Św. Marii Magdaleny C-4
Pl. Wolnica D-7
Pl. Wszytkich Świętych C-4
Płaszowska L-4
Pod Kopcem F-3
Pod Kopcem, Al. K-5
Podbrzezie J-3
Podbrzezie D-5/6
Podgórska E-7
Podchorążych G-1
Podskale I/J-5
Podwale B-2/3
Podzamcze B/C-5
Pokoju, Al. K/L-2/3
Półkole L-3
Pomorska H-1
Portowa K/L-4
Poselska B/C-4
Powiśle A/B-5
Powroźnicza A-6
Powstańców Śląskich, Al. J/K-5
Powstańców Wielkopolskich, Al.
K/L-4/5
Powstania Warszaw. Al. K-2/3
Prądnicka I-1
Prandoty J/K-1
Praska G/H-4
Prusa H-3
Przedwiośnie I-4/5
Przemysłowa K-4
Przybyszewskiego F-1
Pułaskiego A-6/7
Racławicka H-1
Radziwiłłowska E-2/3
Rajska A-2
Rakowicka J/K-1/2
Reformacka A/B-2
Rękawka J/K-4
Retoryka A-4
Reymana G-2
Reymonta G/H-2
Rodackiego J/K-5
Różana A-6
Ruczaj F/G-5
Rybaki I/J-4
Rybna L-4/5
Rynek Dębnicki A-6
Rynek Główny C-3
Rynek Kleparski C/D-1
Rynek Podgórski J-4
Rzeszowska E-6
Rzeźnicza K-3
Sądowa K-2
Salezjańska G/H-5
Salwatorska H-3
Sandomierska A/B-6
Sarego C/D-4/5
Saska L-4/5
Senacka C-4
Senatorska H-3
Siedleckiego E-4/5
Siemieńskiego G/H-1
Siemiradzkiego A-1
Sienkiewicza H-1
Sienna C-3/4
Skałeczna C/D-7
Skalica F-5
Skarbińskiego G-1
Skawińska C/D-7
Skłodowskiej-Curie D/E-3
Skwerowa A-7
Sławkowska C-2/3
Słomiana H-4/5
Słoneckiego K-1
Słonecznikowa F-3
Słowackiego, Al. H/I-1
Smocza B-6
Smoleńsk A/B-4
Smolki I/J-5
Sobieskiego I-2
Sobieskiego Jana III A/B-1
Sołtyka E-3/4
Spasowskiego A/B-1
Spiżowa F-1/2
Starowiślna D/E-4/6
Staszica I-1
Stawarza J-5
Stefana Batorego A/B-1
Stoczniowców L-4
Stolarska C-3/4
Stradomska C/D-5/6
Straszewskiego I-3
Strzelców K-1
Strzelecka E-2
Studencka A/B-3
Sukiennicza C-6
Supniewskiego K-1/2
Swoszowicka J-5
Symfoniczna H-2
Syrokomli H-3
Szablowskiego F-1
Szafera K-2/3
Szczepańska B/C-2/3
Szenwalda L-1/2
Szeroka E-6
Szewska B-2/3
Szklarska L-4
Szlachtowskiego G-1
Szlak I/J-1
Szpitalna C/D-2/3
Szwedzka H-4
Szymanowskiego H-2
Śląska I-1
Śliska I-5
Ślusarska K-4
Śniadeckiego J-3/4
Św. Agnieszki C-6
Św. Anny B-3
Św. Bronisławy G-3
Św. Filipa C/D-1
Św. Gertrudy C/D-4/5
Św. Idziego C-5
Św. Jacka H-5
Św. Jana C-2/3
Św. Katarzyny D-6/7
Św. Krzyża D-3
Św. Łazarza J-3
Św. Marka C/D-2/3
Św. Sebastiana C/E-5
Św. Stanisława C-7
Św. Teresy I-1
Św. Tomasza B/D-2/3
Św. Wawrzyńca D/E-6/7
Świętokrzyska I-1
Tenczyńska B-4
Tkacka H-2
Topolowa J-2
Toruńska G-2
Traugutta K-4
Trynitarska D/E-7
Twardowskiego H-5
Tyniecka F/H-4/5
Urzędnicza H-1/2
Wadowicka I-5
Wałowa K-4
Wandy K-3
Warmijska G-1
Warszauera D/E-6
Warszawska D-1
Wasilewskiego A-7
Wąska E-6
Waszyngtona G-3
Węglowa D-7
Wenecja A-3
Westerplatte D-2/3
Widok L-3
Wielopole J-3
Wierzbowa I-4
Wietora I-4
Wioślarska G-4
Wiślna B-3
Władysława Łokietka I-1
Włościańska F-1
Wodna L-5
Wodociągowa F-4
Wójtowska H-1
Wolnica, Pl. J-4
Worcela D-2
Wróblewskiego I-1/2
Wrocławska H/I-1
Wrzesińska E-4
Wyczółkowskiego G/H-3
Wygoda A-4
Wyspiańskiego H-1
Zacisze D-1/2
Zakątek H-1
Zamenhofa D/E-2
Zamkowa A-6
Zarzecze F-1
Zatorska I-4/5
Zaułek K-4
Zegadłowicza A-4
Zielińskiego, gen. G/H-4
Zwierzyniecka A/B-4/5
Zwycięstwa L-2/3
Zyblikiewicza D/E-3/4
Zygmunta Augusta J-2
Żelazna J-1
Żółkiewskiego K-3
February - March 2016 141 facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
Index
19th Century Polish Art Gallery
76
Adam Mickiewicz 74
Alchemia 64
Alebriche 44
Amadeus 127
Amarone 38
Ambasada Śledzia 59
Amber Boutique Hotels 127
Amber Museum & Laboratory
119
andel's Hotel Cracow 127
Andrzej Mleczko Gallery 119
Anton Hotel Rooms &
Apartments 131
Antycafe 59
Apartment Cracow 131
Apartmenthouse Grodzka 131
Aperitif 32
Archaeology Museum 76
Archdiocesan Museum of
Cardinal Karol Wojtyła 77
Ariel 42
Ascot Hotel 129
Auschwitz I 109
Auschwitz II - Birkenau 109
Auschwitz Jewish Museum &
Synagogue 108
Austeria 120
Automobil Hotel 129
Bagelmama 34
Barbican 69
Bar Kazimierz 50
Baroque 59
B&B La Fontaine 131
Bianca 38
Bierhalle 32
Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace 77
Bistro Trójkąt 64
Błonia Ice Rink 114
Bobby Burger 29
Bonarka City Center 122
Book-a-balance Mobile Spa 116
Boscaiola 38
Bottiglieria 1881 65
Browar Lubicz 60
Bunkier Cafe 59
Cafe Młynek 54
Cafe Tramwaj 110
Campanile 129
Cathedral 111
Cathedral Museum 87
Celestat 77
Central Square & Roses Avenue
103
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 117
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 34
Chimera Salad Bar 40
Chopin Cracow 129
Church of Saints Peter & Paul 72
Church of St. Bartholomew 101
Cień 62
Cistercian Monastery 101
City Engineering Museum 91
Classic 129
Cloth Hall 121
Collegium Maius 77
Copernicus 32, 126
Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant
48, 65
Corpus Christi Church 90
Corse 44
Cracow Chocolate Factory 120
Cracow City Tours 71
Cracow Tours 70
Crazy Guides 103
Cricoteka 95
Crown Treasury & Armoury 85
Cupcake Corner Bakery 56
Curry Up! 40
Czerwone Korale 48
Dajwór 21 Food Truck Park 38
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu 42
Dekor Art 121
Delikatesy 13 120
Destino 44
Diocesan Museum 111
DiscoverCracow.eu 70, 71
Diva Music Gallery 62
Dobra Kasza Nasza 48
Domus Mater 129
Dym 60
Ecotravel 116
Eden 129
Ed Red 48
Enoteka Pergamin 32
Eros Bendato 74
Eszeweria 64
Ethnographic Museum 91, 112
Europeum Centre for European
Culture 78
FACTORY Outlet 123
Floatarium 117
Floryan 129
Food Truck Square 38
Fort Benedict 97
Forum Designu 122
Forum Mody 120
Forum Przestrzenie 60
Francuski 127
Frantic 62
Free Walking Tour 70
Galaxy 127
Galeria Kazimierz 123
Galeria Krakowska 123
Galeria Krakowska Ice Rink 114
Galeria Plakatu 119
Galicia Jewish Museum 91
Gallery of Ancient Art 78
Ghetto Wall Fragment 99
Good Bye Lenin Pub & Garden
131
Grand 126
Grande Grill 29
Greg & Tom Beer House 131
Gródek 126
Grunwald Monument 75
Hamsa 36
Hard Rock Cafe 29, 60
High Synagogue 92
Hilton Garden Inn Kraków 127
Hilton Garden Inn Kraków
Airport 127
Hipolit House 78
History Museum 78
History of Photography
Museum 79
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center
126
Home Army Museum 80
Hotel Kazimierz 129
Hotel Kazimierz II 129
Hotel Kossak 128
Hotel Rubinstein 128
Hotel Stary 126
Hotel Unicus 128
House Of Beer 60
Hutten-Czapski Museum 80
Ibis Budget Kraków Stare Miasto
131
Ibis Kraków Centrum 129
Ibis Kraków Stare Miasto 130
IDEA FIX Concept Store 120
Indus Tandoor 31
InfoKraków 71
InfoKraków Kazimierz 71
InVito Pizza & Pasta 38
Irish Pub Pod Papugami 61
Isaac Synagogue 92
Jama Michalika 56
Jan Matejko 75
Jan Matejko House 79
Jarema 49
Jewish Community 88
Jewish Community Centre 88
Jordan Tourist Information and
Accommodation Centre 71
Józef Mehoffer House 80
Judaica Foundation 88
Kacper Ryx 121
Kanonicza 22 131
Karma Coffee Roasters 56
Karmel 130
Kazimierz Annex 130
Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski 54
Klezmer Hois 44
Andersa, al., gen. M/N-1/3
Artystów N-3
Bardosa T-4
Batalionu Parasol M-1
Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen.
M-2/3
Bulwarowa P/R-1/4
Centralny, pl. N/O-3
Cerchów P-4
Daniłowskiego R-4
Gajocha O-3/4
Gardy-Godlewskiego, płk.
O-2/3
Jana Pawła II, al. M/R-3/4
Klasztorna R-5
Kleinera T-1
Kocmyrzowska M/N-1
Lehra-Spławińskiego T-1
Ludźmierska N-1/2
Łempickiego S-1
Mierzwy O/R-3/4
Mościckiego O/P-1
Klub 30 62
Klub Odeon 30, 63
Kogel Mogel 49
Kolanko N°6 56
Komorowski Luxury Guest
Rooms 127
Kopernik 121
Kościuszko Mound 11
Krakow City Apartments 131
Krakowski Kredens 121
Kraków Water Park 115
Kraków ZOO 115
Kupa Synagogue 92
Kyoto Takoyaki 40
La Bicicletta 33
La Campana Trattoria 40
Lady With An Ermine 86
La Fontaine 30
La Grande Mamma 40
Laser Park 115
Le Scandale 64
Let Me Out 115
Liban Quarry 97
Lipowa 3 Glass & Ceramics
Centre 95
Lost Souls Alley 115
Lost Wawel 85
Main Market Square 68
Maltański 130
Mamma Mia 40
Manggha 81
Marmolada 49
Massolit Books & Café 120
Matejko 128
Matras 120
Miejsce 64
Milkbar Tomasza 34, 51
Miód Malina 51
Mleczarnia 64
Moment 34, 65
Obrońców Krzyża N-1
Orkana P/R-3
Padniewskiego, bp. M-4
Przyjaźni, al. N/O-2/3
Ptaszyckiego R/T-4/5
Róż, al. O-1/2
Rydza-Śmigłego, marsz.
M/P-1/2
Sieroszewskiego P/R-5
Solidarności, al. O/T-1/3
Stalowa O-1
Struga P-2
Tomickiego, bp. M-3/4
Ujastek T-1
Ujastek Mogilski T-2/4
Wańkowicza S-1
Wąwozowa S-1
Wiśniowy Sad M-2
Wojciechowskiego P-1
Zachemskiego P-4/5
Zuchów P-3/4
Żeromskiego O/P-1/2
NOWA HUTA STREET REGISTER
142 Kraków In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
Index
Momo 55
Morskie Oko 51
Mostowa Art Cafe 65
Multi Qlti Tap Bar 61
Museum of Contemporary Art
95
National Museum, Main
Building 81
New Jewish Cemetery 93
Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa 127
NOLIO 40
Nowa Huta Museum 102
Noworolski 57
Old Synagogue 93
Oriental Art 85
Paradise Club 63
Park Inn by Radisson Krakow 128
Pasaż 13 123
Pharmacy Museum 82
Pharmacy Under the Eagle 95
Piec'Art 62
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 59
Pink Panther's Hostel 131
PINO 33
Plac Bohaterów Getta 97
Plac Nowy 122
Plac Nowy 1 33, 114
Plac Targowy Unitarg 122
Pod Aniołami 51
Pod Baranem 52
Pod Norenami 55
Pod Nosem 52
Pod Różą 52, 128
Pod Temidą 50
Pod Wawelem 52, 130
Pollera 130
Polski Pod Białym Orłem 128
PRL Museum 102
Przypiecek 54
PURO Hotel Kraków 128
Qubus Hotel Kraków 128
Radisson Blu 127
Red Kurka 131
Regionalne Alkohole 118
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery
93
Restauracja Sukiennice 53
Restauracja w Hotelu
Francuskim 53
Resto Illuminati 34
Rock Shop 122
Royal 130
Royal Crypts 87
Ruczaj 130
Rynek Underground 82
Rzeźnia - Ribs on Fire 30
Sąsiedzi 53
Scandale Royal 34, 54
Schindler's Factory 96
Secret Garden Hostel 131
SeeKrakow 71
Senacki 128
Sheraton Kraków 127
Sigismund Bell 87
Singer 65
Sissi Organic Bistro 34
Skałka & the Pauline Monastery
90
Skarpa Travel 116
Sławkowska 1 53
Słodki Wierzynek 57
Słowacki Theatre 69
Smakołyki 54
Snow Sports 116
Soprano 110
Społem Deluxe 63
St. Adalbert’s 72
Stadnina Podskalany 116
Stained Glass Museum 83
Stained Glass Museum Shop 122
Stalowe Magnolie 62
St. Andrew’s 73
Stara Zajezdnia 60
Starmach Gallery 99
Stary Kleparz 122
State Rooms & Royal Private
Apartments 85
St. Francis' Basilica 73
St. Joseph's 94
St. Mary’s Basilica 73
S-Tours 70
Studio Qulinarne 36
Sweet Life 57
Święta Krowa 61
Szambelan 119
Szara 36
Szara Kazimierz 36
Szołayski House 83
Tadeusz Kościuszko Monument
11
Tarnów District Museum - Main
Branch 111
T.E.A. Time 60
Tektura 57
Temple Synagogue 93
Thai Smile Massage 117
The Jewish Cemetery 112
The Lord's Ark 102
The Mexican 45
The Organ Grinder 113
The Piano Rouge 62
The Stage 114
Tournet 131
Town Hall Museum 113
Town Hall Tower 83
Tradycyja 36
Trattoria Cyklop 42
Trufla 36
Trzy Rybki 36
Vanilla Sky 36
Vanilla Spa 117
Vegan Bistro Nova Krova 55
Viva la PINTA 61
Wanda's Mound 103
Wawel 130
Wentzl 128
Wesele 54
Wieliczka Salt Mine 104
Wielopole 130
Wierzynek 54
World of Amber 119
WOW KRAKOW! 70
WRT Karting 116
Wyspiański 130
ZaKładka - Food & Wine 31
Zazie Bistro 31
FEATURES INDEX
Barbican 69
Błonia Meadow 128
Breakfast 34
Breweries 60
Currency Exchange 124
Decoding the Menu 29
Dishing Up History 48
Easter in Kraków 83
Facts & Figures 18
Food Trucks 38
Former Gestapo Cells 78
Have Your Say 45
Hot Beer? 65
Jagiellonian University 77
Kazimierz Pułaski 82
Kraków Historical Timeline 21
Kraków in 24hrs 67
Kraków IYP Online 74
Kraków National Museum 81
Kraków Street Art 80
Kraków ZOO 115
Krakus Mound 96
Lady With an Ermine 86
Language Smarts 19
Late Night Eats 54
Liban Quarry 97
Live Music & Jazz 62
Main Market Square 68
Market Values 18
Milk Bars 50
Mogiła 101
Pączki 52
Plac Nowy 92
Plac Wolnica 91
Polish Aviation Museum 79
Polish Food 46
Polish Snacks & Shots 59
Polish Vodka 44
Quick Eats 40
Should I Drink the Water? 32
Sleigh Rides 116
Słowacki Theatre 69
Station History 14
Tadeusz Kościuszko 6
The Cloth Hall 76
The Hejnał 72
The Obwarzanek 43
The Planty 79
The Wawel Dragon 87
Tipping Tribulations 29
Tourist Card 71
Useful Transport Apps 17
What to buy in Poland 118
KRAKÓW

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