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By following several simple steps discussed here, you may find that getting rid of flies has never been easier. You can virtually eliminate flying pests without having to resort to hiring an exterminator who uses insecticide or fumigation techniques that can harm the environment and may do little to stop infestations, long term. This involves understanding how a variety of strategies all work in concert to discourage house flies reproduction and to eliminate the flies that do make it to adulthood. Take these steps to heart and you should get rid of flies and other flying pests like never before. Number one is cleaning up your property. It may sound simple, but stressing sanitation is the first step in fly control and eliminating flies in house. More importantly, is understanding just what effective sanitation actually involves. All outside trash and manure areas should be kept as clean as possible. Make sure all your garbage cans feature lids that seat tightly and always line them with garbage bags. Garbage cans that are kept clean combined with properly sealed, garbage bags, means a huge decrease in odor, which dramatically reduces attracting flies looking to lay their eggs. Keep garbage as far from stables, kennels and housing as possible. Also, flies and dogs can be notorious bed fellows, if you don't keep your dog's area routinely picked up. If you spot flies on dogs on your property, it's time to get extremely aggressive with your canine's sanitation. Weekly garbage and manure disposal is critical to fly prevention , as house flies require a minimum of eight days to emerge from their cocoon or pupae. Keeping fly breeding materials such as rotting hay, loose straw, leaves, wet manure and mulch either down to a minimum or covered with black plastic is critical. The plastic encourages the materials to warm up, which in turn destroys fly larvae. If necessary, consider investing in a utility trailer, dump trailer or landscape trailer to enable the easy transport and removal of fly friendly materials. If you operate a major livestock or boarding facility, you might wish to consider a heavy duty trailer, as well. Remember, fly breeding is always centered around moist manure, vegetation or rotting organic matter. Be careful about leaving horse feed like beet pulp out to soak prior to feeding your livestock. Consider using alfalfa hay rather than alfalfa cubes or alfalfa pellets for horses. Alfalfa hay is felt to be the least attractive to flies, of the three choices. And, understanding how to get rid of flies means really understanding how flies live and interact with the ecosystem, feed and waste by products found on your property. Spreading potential breeding materials out thinly so that they can dry out, also discourages completion of the fly's development. This is because flies require very specific moisture and warmth ratios in the materials the pupaes are maturing in. And, swift disposal of any road kill near your property will help keep quick fly infestations from having a chance to develop. Weed control is another critical component in fly control. Flies need somewhere to rest as well as to escape from extreme temperatures. Tall grasses and weeds provide the perfect fly haven. By eliminating
weeds and maintaining closely cropped lawns and fields, flies can often be encouraged to rest and get cooled down, elsewhere.
Understanding The Difference Between Fighting Adult Flies & Discouraging Fly Reproduction.
When you're struggling with a fly infestation, bear in mind, you're targeting the 10% of the population that's in the adult fly stage. Standard spraying can leave a toxic residue, is rarely effective for very long and does little to address your real problem. You're surrounded by another 90% that's in various stages of the larvae and pupae stage, so, your problems have only just begun. Effective fly control starts with eliminating flies while they are in the process of transforming from larvae to full grown adult fly. Before they emerge from the cocoon. Interestingly enough, only 2 to 4% of flies ever actually make it to adulthood. That's because they are attacked, in the pupae stage by a naturally occurring, fly killer predator that's harmless to people and animals. These insects are known as fly parasites, fly predators or beneficial insects and they use the metamorphosing fly's body as a nest. What allows fly infestations to occur is that flies breed nine times as quickly as fly parasites. So, the next phase in pro-active, organic pest control is spreading these fly predator species around your property to increase the ratio of fly parasites to fly pest species. Doing this gives these beneficial insects the opportunity to kill off more of the imminent fly population that is waiting to emerge from their cocoons. You should begin doing this as soon as the temperature hits the 60-65 degree mark. Now, while strategic use of beneficial insects such as fly parasites is critical (Check out this fly predators review) to keeping fly populations tamped down, comprehensive fly control may also require the use of fly traps. It's important to understand which kind of fly trap will affect which kind of fly pests and how best to use them.
Fly Traps: Which Fly Trap To Use Where & When.
The most common kind of trap, the attractant trap, is used to target the most pervasive of flying pests: House Flies. There are many popular brands and the majority use a non-poisonous attractant to draw the flies in. Most are effective to a radius of 100-150 feet. These traps should be used to draw the flies away from the areas where you keep livestock, pets, etc. Sticky traps, on the other hand, can be hung in barns and stables as they don't encourage flies, getting rid of the ones who just happen to be around. Eliminating Biting Stable Flies means Fly traps equipped with a visual lure. Traps used for House Flies are worthless when dealing with Deer, Horse and Biting Stable Fly issues. Biting Stable Fly traps should be placed at least 10 feet from horse corral and stables, no more than four feet from the ground and where
the sun hits hardest. Pasture issues mean placing each fly trap roughly 50 to 100 feet from each other and out of reach of all livestock. While you needn't worry about toxicity, these traps are extremely sticky. Also, Deer and Horse Fly issues require specialty traps, uniquely configured to thwart the culprits as they repeatedly fly upwards to escape. Blue Blow Flies are inclined to breed primarily in decaying animal matter. A female "blue green fly" can lay hundreds of eggs during her lifetimes. The eggs require ninety percent relative humidity to hatch successfully. With sufficient moisture, hatching occurs almost immediately.The larvae mature rapidly and, when ready, are known to crawl several feet to pupate in drier places, either in the soil or in building crevices. New adults emerge in two to three weeks with several reproduction cycles per season. Blue Blow Flies or blue flies are seldom a significant pest, but their use of your barn as safe harbor during the colder seasons might be an issue. Properly disposing deceased animals should help keep their numbers down.
The adult Green Bottle Flies (Also known as green flies) are shiny metallic green to bronze. Medium-sized, these stout flies are 1/4”-1/2” long. The thorax has 3 cross-grooves and black bristle-like hairs. The antennae and legs are black. The wings are clear with light brown veins.
Female Green Bottle Flies lay up to 180 eggs on carrion, dead fish, manure, unprotected wounds, or garbage. The larvae attain full size in 2-10 days, drop to the soil, and burrow shallowly before pupating. There are up to 8 generations a year, the last overwintering as larvae in the soil. The Green Bottle Fly is not as attracted to the smell of fresh meat as is the Blue Bottle Fly. It is also less likely to enter homes. It is often found near dog feces, manure, and garbage cans.
Flies, How To Get Rid Of Overwhelming Infestations, Quickly.
If the flies have hit your property in bulk, it's time to fight back with poison fly bait. This targets the adult flies that are swarming your property. Don't hesitate to initiate your beneficial bugs and fly traps at the same time, so that you're fighting both the immediate problem and the continual series of new adult flies, waiting to emerge. Poison fly bait's biggest benefit is that it neither attracts nor attacks the fly parasites, much unlike fly spray, which can wipe the good bugs out. Most insect repellent and insecticides are indiscriminate and will destroy your beneficial insects along with the flying pests, which could create an even bigger fly problem. Summary: to annihilate flies, get rid of the larvae while they're still in the cocoon, exterminate the adult flies with all due haste and your fly problem should begin to disappear. Poison fly bait also leaves other critical bugs, like Dung Beetles & Mites, untouched. (These free creatures are strictly natural inhabitants.) Fly traps, strict sanitation, fly parasites and these, "beneficial bugs," should keep your fly problem in check, sans fly spray. However, eliminating your own fly problem might just leave you confounded about how to deal with the stray, visitor flies coming your way from a neighbor's place. Fear not! Invite your neighbor over to ask advice on some fictitious barn or animal problem. You'll be amazed at how quickly he or she realizes you are virtually fly free and starts asking questions. As soon as they ask your advice on pest control products & how to get rid of flies, take the opportunity to show them the routine changes that have given you and your animals a greener, friendlier environment.
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