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Poznan In Your Pocket

Poznan In Your Pocket


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Poznan In Your Pocket: the only guide to Poznan, Poland, you will ever need.
Poznan In Your Pocket: the only guide to Poznan, Poland, you will ever need.

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Published by: In Your Pocket City Guides on Oct 09, 2008
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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels



No. 41, July - October 2015
July - October 2015 3 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Lake Rusałka 6
Arrival & Transport 10
City Basics 14
Basic History 16
Culture & Events 18
Restaurants 24
Cafés 42
Nightlife 44
Essential Poznań 53
Sightseeing 54
Ostrów Tumski 62
Citadel Park 64
Jewish Poznań 67
Wielkopolska Uprising 68
1956 Uprising 69
Further Afeld
Gniezno 70
Leisure 74
Lake Malta 76
Shopping 78
Directory 84
Hotels 86
Maps & Index
Street Index 93
Listings Index 94
Features Index 95
City Map 96-97
City Centre Map 98
If you’re here in the autumn, Lake Rusałka is the best place in Poznań to watch the colours turn. Find more reasons to visit the area in our
feature on page 6. Photo courtesy of City of Poznań
4 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Whether it’s your first time in the city, or you’ve been privy to
Poznań’s charms in the past, there’s precious little doubt that
you’ve timed your presence perfectly to enjoy this Polish city
to its fullest. Something about the rising temperatures and
hemlines, summer sunshine and short nights make the
market square townhouses seem more colourful (page 54),
the locals more alluring, the beers more refreshing, and the
clubs more lively. Poznań is a unique cocktail of youthful
exuberance - enhanced by 130,000 students attending
PL’s third largest university - epic nightlife (page 44) and a
deep history which dates back to the very roots of Polish
statehood (see pages 17 and 70). Get your kicks on the
cobblestones and the dancefloor before you go.
As summer gives way to autumn, the morning sun burns
the fog off the extraordinary lakes which flank the Old Town
to both the east and west, and the city’s resplendent green
spaces explode in swaths of gold, orange and red. It’s one
of our favourite natural phenomenons, and no small part of
the reason that this issue we’ve zeroed in on the best place
in town to see this chromatic maneuver occur - Lake Rusałka
- by featuring it in our guide for the very first time. The area
has much to offer those eager to escape urbanity and get
off the beaten path (and even off the IYP map); learn more
about all there is to see and do in this surprisingly untamed
area just northwest of the Old Town on page 6.
In addition to meticulously updating all of the information
in this guide, and bringing you new reviews of all the latest
restaurants and dram houses to open since we last went to
press, we’ve also been hard at work putting the finishing
touches on the new inyourpocket.com. Check it out and
let us know what you make of it via our Facebook page
(/PoznanInYourPocket) or via old-fashioned email to
editor_poland@inyourpocket.com. Enjoy Poznań.
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków
Company Offi ce & Accounts
General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676
Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716
15,000 copies published 3 times per year
Editor: Garrett Van Reed; Contributing Writer: Steve Sibbald;
Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan,
Kalina Klimaszewska; Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Maria
Rulaff, Janina Krzysiak; Photography: All photographs In Your
Pocket unless otherwise stated;
Cover © Agata Urbanowicz
Sales & Circulation
Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager:
Monika Szymanek 668 876 351
Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643
Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642
Gdansk/Malbork Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824
Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City
Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD
ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form without written permission from the
copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
We have been busy these past couple
of months. Aside from launching a
brand-new guide in Milan, Italy, we
have also been applying the finishing
touches to our new digital platform at
inyourpocket.com. Radically redesigned
and restructured to place the visitor at
the heart of the cities we cover, our new
website puts you in total control of our
content on whatever desktop, laptop
or mobile device you are using. Give it
a go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward
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in all formats.
To keep up with all that’s new at In Your
Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.
com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.
Traditional Polish Cuisine & Sous Vide Technique
PHONE: +48 618 510 513
Lake Rusałka
Poznań boasts a dense historic Old Town directly between two of Poland’s
largest man-made urban recreation areas in lakes Malta (to the east) and Rusałka
(to the northwest). While it’s the more developed and commercialised Lake
Malta (see page 76) that grabs most of the tourist attention, this issue we explore
the unheralded area surrounding Lake Rusałka, which is rich in history (most of it
tragic), natural beauty (both tamed and untamed) and opportunities to escape
the urban patter of Poznań.
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July - October 2015 7 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Lake Rusałka
If lakes Malta and Rusałka were siblings (and in a sense they
are), Rusałka would be the athletic and attention-seeking
Malta’s mysteriously beautiful and slightly introverted sister.
Indeed, the lake’s very name - derived from Slavic mythology
and denoting a water nymph or mermaid - belies the area’s
natural wonder and allure. While Lake Malta is favoured by
families and sportsmen, and characterised by an artificial ski
slope, adrenaline rides, mini-golf, a zoo and other diverting
amusements and activities (see p.76 for more), the slightly
smaller Rusałka (36.7 hectares) has long been favoured by
naturalists and fishermen, hikers, cyclists and photographers,
and is characterised by 3,300 metres of largely wooded
coastline woven with intimate walking paths, ancient trees (a
group of which near the north shore are a designated natural
monument), misty streams, and several forgotten war
memorials. Like Lake Malta, Rusałka is a man-made reservoir
initiated during WWII, but in contrast to her younger brother,
Rusałka’s shores are almost entirely devoid of commercial
development and provide a unique opportunity to immerse
oneself in a natural setting without leaving the city centre.
That’s not to say that this old girl doesn’t know how to have
fun, however. In summertime a designated section of the
northern coast becomes Poznań’s most popular swimming
and sun-bathing destination, even overseen by lifeguards
and offering water sports equipment rental. In fact this
season the shore will host the new Rusałka restaurant and
beach bar, and there are numerous events and activities
planned in an effort to get more people engaged in one of
Poznań’s most beautiful and under-utilised recreation areas.
Summer - when hot bodies hit the beach, and autumn
- when the leaves perform that magical chromatic
manoeuvre of theirs, are absolutely the best times of year to
visit the area (take your camera). Tourists will also find several
other points of interest nearby, including Park Sołacki -
which leads directly into Lake Rusałka’s eastern shore, and
the Botanical Gardens on the southern shore. For those
fascinated by Poland’s painful past, Rusałka also conceals
several unkempt WWII-era memorials and mausoleums,
and the Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum is also within
walking distance of the south shore. If your interests include
nature, history or photography, escape the agoraphobic Old
Town and explore Rusałka’s unique and natural charms, as
well as her dark secrets. You’d be wise to pick up a map of
the area from tourist information (p.55), wear comfortable
shoes (prepare for lots of walking), and off you go.
Located just below the southeast shore of Lake Rusałka,
Poznań’s lovely Botanical Garden boasts a vast 22 hectares
and over 7,000 varieties of plants from almost every kind of
climate and ecosystem in the world. Impeccably maintained,
the garden is both a recreational and educational park
owned by the Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań, and its
history dates back to 1922 when it was only a 6 hectare plot.
The park includes several greenhouses, a snazzy two-storey
exhibition pavilion with a gallery, bookshop and cafe, several
enormous standing stones they took great trouble to bring
here, and a lovely ballerina fountain designed by Margaret
Węcławska - a graduate of the Poz Academy of Fine Arts.
Absolutely worth visiting on a nice day, though note that
it is quite popular on weekends.Qul. Dąbrowskiego 165
(Ogrody), tel. (+48) 61 829 20 13, www.obuam.robia.pl.
Open 09:00 - 20:00; from Sept open 09:00 - 19:00; from
Oct open 09:00 - 18:00; from Oct 25 open 09:00 - 17:00;
closed from Nov. Pavilion open 09:00 - 19:00; from Nov
open 09:00 - 16:00. Admission free. U
Located northwest of Poznań’s Old Town (just beyond
E-1 on the IYP map), and just northeast of the airport,
Lake Rusałka is perfectly accessible via public transport,
but getting there usually involves a complex cocktail of
trams and buses and obviously depends entirely upon
where you are and which part of the area you want to
explore. As such, taxi is definitely your easiest option, and
a ride out to the western suburbs should only set you
back between 15 and 25zł depending on where you are
in the centre. Nonetheless, here are your best options for
visiting key points in the area via public transport.
To the Botanical Gardens and south shore:
The ‘Ogrody’ tram roundabout is just outside the
entrance of the Botanical Garden. At the moment the
tramline is under construction after Rynek Jeżycki (E-3),
but bus T2 makes the same route. Take tram 17 from
‘Plac Wielkopolski’ (C-1) and change to bus T2 at ‘Rynek
Jeżycki’ (E-3), getting off at ‘Ogrody.’ From ‘Ogrody’ it is
also only about a 20min walk up ul. Botaniczna, across
ul. Wawrzyńca, and to the trail on the lake’s south side.
To the north shore beach area:
Catch bus 60 from ‘Małe Garbary’ (D-1), getting off at
‘Golęcin;’ or bus 64 from Rynek Jeżycki (E-3), getting
off at ‘Golęcinska’ (one stop further than ‘Golęcin’). It’s
a 15-20min walk through the woods from either stop,
though “Golęcinska’ is a bit closer.
Photo by Martyna Łuczak. Courtesy of City of Poznań
8 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Lake Rusałka
Separated from the public gardens and woods surrounding
Lake Rusałka by only a road, Park Sołacki essentially ushers
you into this lush green district just northwest of the Old
Town. Really, on it’s own it would be enough - with the
Bogdanka River running right through it, and two ponds
with charming bridges spanning them, plus lots of ducks
and waterfowl, this is perhaps Poznań’s most intimate and
picturesque park (except for that weird sculpture at the
north end, keep your kids away from that one). With no
fence hemming it in you’re free to wander the more than 14
hectares it covers and enjoy the peace and quiet anytime
you like. Pack a picnic, or dine in the restaurant of the Hotel
Meridian, which is right in the park. Get there via bus 60
from ‘Małe Garbary’ (D-1) to ‘Nad Wierzbakiem’ (E-1), which
is directly outside the east entrance to the park.QE-1,
Between ul. Małopolska and ul. Litewska.
Lake Rusałka is ideal for sunset walks, biking and bird
watching, but if the birds you’re eager to ogle are the kind
without feathers, then head for Rusałka’s north shore. Each
summer an artificial beach right in the middle of the north
coast becomes a popular sunbathing and swimming area,
with lifeguards on duty and kayak and canoe rental. This
year a lot of energy and investment has gone into making
the area more attractive than ever, for both students and
families. In addition to an increased focus on community
events, the north shore now boasts a new playground, a
beach bar (PiachBar) serving drinks, ice cream, waffl es and
snacks, a barbecue area with three grills, and the brand
new Rusałka restaurant located in the old boathouse. A
great place to spend a sunny day, beat the heat and relax
with the locals.Qul. Golęcińska 27, www.samafrajda.pl.
Open from July 4, 10:00 - 18:00.
One of 18 forts built by the Prussians in the 1870s to protect
Poznań’s perimeter, ‘Fort VII’ gained notoriety when it was
used as a Gestapo penal camp between 1939 and 1944. At
least 18,000 Polish prisoners were processed here, of which
4,500 were murdered, though other estimates have the
death toll as high as 20,000. The windswept grassy grounds
make for a thought-provoking walk, along which visitors
will see the ‘death wall’ - where up to seven prisoners were
executed daily during Nazi rule, as well as dark underground
tunnels used as makeshift gas chambers. Elsewhere a
vaulted brick room holds a small but haunting display
that includes a guillotine, an execution block, truncheons,
whips and arrest warrants. The personal effects of prisoners
have also been preserved, including hand-written letters,
playing cards, rosaries and identity papers. Chillingly graffi ti
etched into the walls by prisoners can still be discerned,
the writing framed with red and white ribbons. Reaching
Fort VII is only slightly easier than being there, and your
best bet is taking a cab (20-25zł). Alternatively take tram
17 from ‘Plac Wielkopolska’ (C-1) and change to bus T2 at
‘Rynek Jeżycki’ (E-3), getting off at ‘Ogrody;’ from Ogrody
it’s a 20min walk down ul. Dąbrowskiego before you turn
left on ul. Polska, or you can take bus 56, 61 or 833 one
stop further to ‘Polska.’QAl. Polska (Jeżyce), tel. (+48)
61 848 31 38, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. From
October 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission
2/1zł. Tue free. N
Before becoming a picturesque recreational area, the
neighbourhoods of Ogrody (literally ‘Gardens’) and
Golęcin, between which Lake Rusałka now rests, were
preoccupied with protecting the city from invasion
as part of the ‘Fortress Poznań’ ring of defences built
in the late 19th century. Bogdanka Battery today lies
somewhere in the murky depths below Lake Rusałka,
while some traces of larger Fort VIa can be found in the
woods north of the lake (the fort was badly damaged
during WWII and then demolished). The primary
fortress in the area, however, was Fort VII, which still
stands just south of the lake and is easily the most
dark-hearted place in Poznań. Fort VII had already
been turned into a Nazi concentration camp (the first
on Polish territory) as early as October 1939, when
the Reich got the idea of damming the Bogdanka
tributary and creating a lovely lake here in 1943...
using Jewish slave labour. It’s unclear how many lives
it cost to do the work, and sources disagree on how
many people - the vast majority of them Poles from the
Wielkopolska region - were executed at Fort VII and in
the forests surrounding Lake Rusałka during World War
II; with all documentation destroyed, estimates actually
range from a conservative 4,500 to a terrifying 20,000.
Today Fort VII can be visited under the auspices of the
Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum, and modest memorials
can be found at massacre sites scattered across all four
sides of Lake Rusałka. Though some of these memorial
places are close to the trail that circles the lake, and
all four can be found with some very determined
sleuthing, none of them are particularly conspicuous,
nor well-maintained, making their discovery all the
more moving.
Photo by J. Waśko
A business lunch, a family dinner,
a date or a beer with friends...
Original dishes from European
cuisine and unique beer brewed
in our own brewery help create
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place like it
in Poznań
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Arrival & Transport
small surcharge. Check the timetables online at the Polish
railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited,
but effective English functionality; if you want a seat on a
particular train, it is best to book ahead.
Taxis await you immediately outside, and a ride to the
main square costs about 10-20zł. Bus 51 also runs near
the city centre (drops at ‘Małe Garbary,’ D-1) with buses
leaving every 15 minutes; a 15-minute transport ticket
is enough to get you there. Construction work still being
done close to the station means that the tram network is
in a bit of a mess at the moment, but tram number 6 from
‘Most Dworcowy’ will take you to ‘Półwiejska’ (G-4), which
is an easy 10 minute walk from the main square.QE-4,
ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign
mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that
due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be
made between 00:00 - 01:00.
Poznań’s main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is
opposite the Trade Fair Centre and about 10 minutes by
taxi to the main square. The site of a massive 160 million
złoty redevelopment project over the last few years, a
new transportation centre has arisen alongside the old
train station building, which integrates rail, tram, and bus
connections in one modern, state-of-the-art underground
transit station. As a result, this is now the point of entry
for most visitors to the city, including those arriving at the
airport and taking the direct bus to the centre, which drops
off here.
In this day and age, ‘modern’ and ‘state-of-the-art’ not only
connote sleek, fully handicap-accessible facilities, but the
incorporation of a new shopping mall (with parking for 900
cars), plus dozens of other opportunities for consumerism
and refreshment dotted around the station (welcome to
the 21st century). Other now-standard amenities include
lockers for large luggage (have some coins handy),
currency exchange and bank machines. The city of Poznań
operates a tourist information desk, but there’s also the
PKP-operated Train Station Offi ce (open 07:00 - 21:00),
which can help you plan your trip, get tickets, and even get
into town.
Normal ticket windows are conveniently open 24hrs, but
using the ticket machines (which have English options) is
just as easy. If you’re running late, note that it is possible
to buy tickets onboard the train from the conductor for a © Tomasz Francuzik; courtesy of City of Poznań
July - October 2015 11 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Arrival & Transport
At the end of 2013, PKS Poznań Bus Station was integrated
into the city’s spiffy new transportation centre below
Poznań City Centre - more info on which you can find under
Main Train Station, including what amenities are available,
and how to get into town.QF-4, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2,
tel. (+48) 703 30 33 30, www.pks.poznan.pl. Ticket offi ce
open 06:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
Poznań Ławica Airport lies 7km west of central Poznań
and recently opened a new arrivals terminal, with the old
terminal now utilised for departures. Note, however, that
the entire airport will be closed from September 21 to
October 11 while the runway is renovated.
In the new Arrivals terminal you’ll find an exchange bureau
(kantor), cash machine (bankomat) and food vendors, as
well as a tourist info point where you can pick up additional
copies of Poznań’s best guidebook. As with all sensible
airports in this day and age, there is absolutely no left
luggage facility. Calling home is no problem; find phone
booths located before passport control - chip cards to
operate them are available from every newsagent. They’ll
also be able to sell you SIM cards and pre-paid cards for
your mobile phone.
Getting to town is a cinch. Car rental is available, and taxis
stand right outside the entrance - you’ll probably overpay
to take one, however. With taxi rates to the centre rather
ridiculously ranging from 20-50zł depending on the time
of day, it’s hard for us to say how much you should pay, but
you should always agree on a fare with the driver before
Alternatively, cut costs by catching a bus, which will get you
to the centre in 15-20 minutes. From the stop right outside
the entrance, Line 59 heads to Rondo Kaponiera every half
hour from 05:05 to 22:55; Express Line L (Airport - Main
Train Station) sends two buses per hour from 5:15 - 22:15.
At other times the airport is connected to the train station
by night bus 242, with one an hour from 23:52 till 03:52;
journey time 23 mins. Single 40-minute tickets (4.60/2.30zł)
can be bought from kiosks, TI or ticket machines; remember
to validate your ticket immediately upon boarding.Qul.
Bukowska 285 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, www.
Poznań is criss-crossed by 19 tram routes (of which one
runs at night), and 58 bus lines (20 at night). During the
day these run from around 05:00 to 23:00 with trams and
buses running approximately every ten minutes. Tickets are
bought from automated machines found on most buses
and trams, as well as at most transport stops, and the fact
that you can pay by card means you don’t have to stress
about having change. The galaxy of ticket options travellers
are presented with is far too complex to review here; you
can take it to heart that you won’t be leaving ‘Zone A’ unless
you’re travelling far outside of the city-centre, as even Lake
Malta is within Zone A. Tickets are timed, and the cheapest
option is a not-very-cheap 3zł for only 10mins - which
might only get you 3 or 4 stops. A 40-min ticket for 4.60zł
is the safer bet, but if you plan on travelling often, you may
want to consider a 24hr or 48hr ticket. Another option if
you are here for a few days is the Poznan City Card which
gives you free unlimited use of the public transport system
as part of the price. It’ll save an awful lot of headaches. Note
that kids under five and adults over 70 ride for free.
Finally, it is extremely important that you remember to
validate your ticket by punching it in the ‘kasowniks’
found by the bus/tram exit as soon as you board. If you
don’t have a valid ticket and find yourself nicked by a plain
clothes inspector you’ll be fined 140zł on the spot as well
as the cost of the ticket you didn’t purchase/validate; and if
you don’t pay within seven days the fine jumps up to 280zł.
Yes, Poz public transport is a bit of a racket.
Poznań’s tram and bus network is incredibly easy to
use, but if you want to make it even easier, check out
the poznan.jakdojade.pl website and the jakdojade
app for your smartphone. The former is a great tool for
advance planning, but the app is more practical for
figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re
out in town and away from your computer. Just type in
your starting address (the app does this automatically)
and destination, select the time you want to depart or
arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best
method for you to get there. Finished at the museum
and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell
you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the
correct stop and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s
brilliant and absolutely worth the couple Euros you’ll
spend to download it.
If you don’t have the patience for public transport in
the first place, there’s a nifty app for ordering taxis in
PL: iTaxi.pl. iTaxi allows you to compare rates, arrival
times, car models and more, sending the cab of your
choice to your location without you having to talk to
any dispatchers. Best of all, the drivers register to create
a profile, and are heavily vetted so there’s no funny
business. Download it for free from their website.
12 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Arrival & Transport
Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of getting behind the wheel here. A lethal combination of
poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of
different traffi c and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour
result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the
country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the
vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban
areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on
motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched
on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit,
replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper
registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict
drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol
limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU citizens may
use their home driving licences as long as they are valid (and
you have it on you when driving), however citizens of countries
that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and
America) will find their licences technically invalid (though this
has never been a problem for anyone we know).
Driving to Poznań is fairly easy as it’s on the main E30
highway between Warsaw and Berlin. Once you’ve arrived,
driving around Poznań’s congested one-way streets can be
incredibly trying, however, so we suggest you ditch your
vehicle for public transport at the first opportunity, which
raises the question of where to put it.
Public parking lots are marked on the maps in the back of our
print guide, and free parking is basically non-existent, though
some hotels have limited parking spaces for guests; check
when booking your room. For street parking you’ll easily
recognise the universal large blue ‘P’ sign, but be aware that
a blue circle with a red ‘X’ over it means ‘No Parking’ (not sure
which universe that sign is from). Pay via the automated ticket
machines on the sidewalk, but note that they only take coins
or special chip cards from the parking authority offi ce (so
forget that option). Generally having a private car in Poznań is
a bad idea unless you have a safe, inexpensive place to keep it.
Enterprising tourists
should consider the
Poznań Tourist Card - a
splendid piece of plastic
that entitles the bearer to
free or discounted admis-
sion to more than 70 places, plus optional free travel on
the city’s public transport system for a small additional
fee. The card comes a guide explaining how to use it,
which places offer free admission (most museums)
and which offer discounts (a selection of restaurants,
theatres and other attractions such as the zoos, Lech
Visitors Centre and various leisure activities). The card
can also be used in selected places outside of the city,
such as Kórnik Castle, where it is valid for an additional
day on top of the number of days it is valid in the city.
Cards cost 35zł for 1-day (30zł without transport),
49zł for 2-days (35zł without transport), and 59zł
for 3-days (45zł without transport), and can be
purchased from every Tourist Information Centre as
well as a few hotels. Every venue in our guide which
accepts the Poznań Tourist Card has been marked with
a Y symbol.
We don’t like to boast, but we wholeheartedly believe
that Poznań In Your Pocket is the best guide, bar none,
to Poznań and the surrounding region on the market.
Written in a witty, impartial and informative style, here
and on our website - poznan.inyourpocket.com -
you’ll find almost limitless amounts of info on what to
see and do while in town, plus all the history and cultural
background you could possibly wish for. Best of all, the
information we give here is meticulously updated
every four months so that it is as current and accurate
as we can possibly make it at press time. Even more
importantly, and in contrast to our competition, the
editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is completely
subjective and independent of paid-for advertising
or sponsored listings. Contrary to urban myth, IYP
writers do not accept free meals, sexual favours, first-
born children or other bribes in return for favourable
reviews, and we reserve the right to say whatever we
damn well please about the venues listed in our guides,
regardless of disagreement from advertisers, owners or
the general public. The editor has also done everything
possible to ensure the accuracy of this guide at the time
of going to press, but assumes no responsibility for
unforeseen changes, errors, American spellings, poor
service, unexpected pregnancies, disappointing food or
terrible hangovers. To contact the editor directly, write
to editor_poland@inyourpocket.com.
The ‘Maluch’ - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly
unavailable to rent.
July - October 2015 13 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Arrival & Transport
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid
foreign driver’s licence or international driving permit. Be
aware, however, that citizens from countries that didn’t
ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia)
cannot legally drive on their licences and run the risk of
hassle from the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we
know from borrowing their girlfriend’s car, or renting one
for that matter). Enjoy cruising the EU, but don’t try leaving
it in a rental car.
Qul. Bukowska 285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849
23 57, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00.
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable
and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling
ahead should get you a better fare, but if you hail one from
the street make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with
a company name and phone number displayed, as well as
a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now
legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journey’s
end further limiting the likelihood of any funny business.
You should expect to pay 5zł for entering the taxi followed
by 2zł per kilometre. Prices rise on Sundays, holidays, late at
night and for travel outside of the city limits.
Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a point of contention.
Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a
tip and thereby, if you’re Polish, the driver may not expect one.
But double standards being what they are, it’s anticipated that
foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate, or
simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.
EURO TAXIQtel. (+48) 61 811 11 11,
M1 TAXIQtel. (+48) 61 822 22 22, www.taxi.poznan.pl.
RADIO LUX TAXIQtel. (+48) 61 196 62,
ZTP POZNAŃQtel. (+48) 61 196 22, www.taxi.com.pl.
Avis, the global leader in
car rentals, offers short and
long rental cars, vans and
chauffeur-driven vehicles, including everything from
small city cars to shared vans, even hybrids. Over
1,000 models are available - all equipped with air
conditioning, airbags and ABS to ensure both comfort
and safety. Flexible terms of cooperation from experts
in professionalism, convenience and safety. Also at Pl.
Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel, G-4).Qul. Bukowska
285 (Ławica Airport), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 35, www.
avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. Telephone line manned 24hrs a day.
tel: +48 22 572 65 65
14 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
City Basics
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line
or public phone should use the following numbers: 999
for an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997
for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be
forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking
assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the
linguistic capabilities of the operator.
English, German and Russian speakers have the option of
using separate lines specifically designed for foreigners
in distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or + 48 22 278 77 77.
Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a
land line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles
during your stay. The lines are active year round with later
hours during the high-tourist season.
If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of
some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling
a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously
long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can be
found in the Directory section of our guide. Further help can
be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can
also be found in the Directory. If it’s a financial emergency your
hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks
and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such
transactions, just keep an eye out for the Western Union logo.
In general Poznań is far safer than most Western cities, and
visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply
employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers
should be on guard against pickpockets; if you’re in a bar or
restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not
inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling
by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Avoid being
ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked
cabs, something to bear in mind around the train station and
airport. The vagrants and pondlife who gather around the
train station are by in large harmless and easily ignored.
Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier
for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are
rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to
make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front
of the law. In recent years visitors ranging from folks in
Chewbacca costumes to complete fools who’ve thought
it’s perfectly acceptable to drop trousers and urinate in
a city centre fountain have tested the patience of the
local law enforcement. Their tolerance threshold is now
decidedly low so don’t push your luck. Those who do may
well be treated to a trip to Poznań’s premier drunk tank (ul.
Podolańska 46), where you can expect a strip search, a set
of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling
vagrantsa chastening experience which will set you back
250zł for a 6-24 hour stay. In return for your cash expect
a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km),
Lithuania (103km), the mysterious Russian exclave of
Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine
Longest River
The river Vistula (Wisła) is Poland’s longest river at
1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw before
reaching the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Poznań
sits on the Warta river which reaches the Baltic via the
Odra at Szczecin.
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the Tatra
Mountains on Poland’s southern border.
Population (2014)
Poland - 38,502,396
Warsaw - 1,729,119
Kraków - 759,800
Łódź - 708,554
Wrocław - 633,105
Poznań - 546,829
Gdańsk - 461,935
Katowice - 294,889
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Poznań it’s 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices. Market values as of June 18, 2015
based on €1 = 4.11zł
McDonald's Big Mac 8.70 zł € 2.12
Snickers 1.69 zł € 0.41
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 26.69 zł € 6.49
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.89 zł € 0.70
0.5ltr beer (bar) 8.00 zł € 1.95
Loaf of white bread 2.39 zł € 0.58
20 Marlboros 15.00 zł € 3.65
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.06 zł € 1.23
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 4.60 zł € 1.12
July - October 2015 15 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
City Basics
a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine
(credit cards not accepted, of course).
Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding
public transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport,
Public Transport) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If
you are from a country which doesn’t have or respect
jaywalking laws, you’ll be surprised to see crowds of people
standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to
change. The reason for obeying this little rule is the fact
that the local city police (Straż Miejska) will quite freely give
you a 50-100zł fine for crossing a road at a place where no
crossing is marked or a 100zł fine when the ‘walk’ light is red.
And don’t think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor.
You too are subject to the law and your non-residency
means you will be forced to pay the fine on the spot.
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents,
public toilets, even the occasional restaurant or bar will often
refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can
be, do carry small change for such moments.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming ‘Kantor’. Kantors will
often provide better value than the banks in your home
country or the ATM, though for obvious reasons be very
wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to
tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the best
rate. For a list of Kantors in Poznań, see Directory.
Since EU ascension, prices in Poland have been on the rise,
making the country less of a bargain than it was ten years ago.
Having said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues
and transport still remain comparably cheap in contrast to
Western Europe. A ticket to the cinema typically costs 15-25zł
while admission to most museums costs around 5-15zł.
According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles are
Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on baptisms
and the number of actual practising Catholics is probably
closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one of the most
religious countries in Europe. For over one thousand years
Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against
the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism
for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was
partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the Church for
solace and during the communist era, underground resistance
meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased
Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of
pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than
cynics in the West can understand. Those used to the more
easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm
a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent
processions that occur from time to time and the droves that
flock to mass. Tourists should remember while visiting Poznań’s
many churches that these aren’t museums, but active places of
worship to be treated with the requisite respect.
Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be
terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many
Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command
of the English language. Though you can probably get
by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will
nonetheless smooth your time in Poznań and may even
win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is offi cially recognised as one of
the most diffi cult languages for native English speakers to
learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in
Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.
This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each
letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent
the same sounds as they do in English, below we have
listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic
words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation
‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’
‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’
‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’
‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘
‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’
‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’
‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’
‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’
‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’
‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’
‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’
‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’
‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’
‘r’ is always rolled
Polish Words & Phrases
Yes Tak (Tahk)
No Nie (Nyeh)
Hi/Bye (informal) Cześć (Cheshch)
Hello/Good day (formal) Dzień dobry (Jen doh-bri)
Good evening (formal) Dobry wieczór (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)
Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)
Please Proszę (Prosheh)
Thank you Dziękuję (Jen-koo-yeh)
Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)
My name is... Mam na imię... (Mam nah ee-myeh…)
I’m from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee)
Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku? (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)
I don’t speak Polish. Nie mówię po polsku. (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)
I don’t understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
Two beers, please. Dwa piwa proszę. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)
Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)
Where are the toilets? Gdzie są toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
You are beautiful. Jesteś piękna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
I love you. Kocham cię. (Ko-hahm chuh.)
Please take me home. Proszę zabierz mnie
do domu.
(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh
Call me! Zadzwoń do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)
Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)
Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
One ticket to… Jeden bilet do… (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)
16 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Basic History
Seeing that Poland occupies
a fair chunk of Europe it’s safe
to assume it has a history to
match the greatest of nations.
Indeed, to pen the full story
of Poland and its origins
would be to come up with a
tome thick enough to stun
an elephant. So we’ve taken
a few shortcuts and present
you here with some highlights
of Poznań’s millennium-long
journey - from its Dark Ages
settlement to its 21st century commercial awakening.
10th century
In 968 the first Polish cathedral is erected here. In 992
Mieszko I, the first ruler of Poland, is buried in Poznań
12th century
Poznań begins to develop. At the end of the century,
members of the Knights of Malta settle at St. Nicholas’
Church and found the first hospital in Poznań.
13th century
In 1253, Przemysł, Prince of Wielkopolska, bestows
Magdeburg Law rights to the town of Poznań. A regular
street system is laid out around a central marketplace and a
castle is added to the fortifications.
14th century
Poznań goes through its greatest period of expansion and
is soon a major centre of European trade.
16th century
A golden age in the city’s development, though in 1536 a
fire devastates the Jewish quarter, the market square, Town
Hall and the Castle.
17th century
Prosperity falls after the devastatingly expensive Swedish
Wars of 1655-1657 and a series of fires and floods. Swedes
occupy Poznań in 1655, Brandenburgians in 1656.
18th century
Poznań runs out of luck. During the Northern War, Russian
and Saxon troops besiege the city in 1704. In 1710 a plague
largely depopulates the town and its suburbs. In 1725 a
hurricane destroys the towers of the Town Hall and the
Cathedral. And in 1736, the worst flood in the town’s history
wipes out almost a third of its buildings.
19th century
Napoleon has his headquarters here for two weeks in 1806.
As the Prussians convert Poznań into a military stronghold,
the local Poles resist the Germanisation process and form
their own cultural and economic organisations.
20th century
The Wielkopolska Uprising of December 1918 starts in
Poznań and wins freedom for the region. In 1918-1919,
Poznań is the base of the National People’s Council and
the administrative centre for lands formerly under Prussian
rule. From 1939-1945, the local Jewish community is wiped
out, much of the town’s population is killed or displaced
and about half of the city’s buildings are destroyed. On
January 23, 1945, Russian troops reach Poznań. With 5,000
mobilised locals, they drive out the Germans after a month.
The Warsaw Pact is created in 1955.
In what becomes known as the 1956 Uprising, in late June
120,000 protestors in Poznań demand “bread, truth and
freedom,” and 76 are killed in street fighting with the army.
A political thaw begins that year under Władysław Gomułka.
Gdańsk shipyard workers strike in December to protest
poor living standards and rising prices. The police and army
intervene, killing 44 strikers. Unrest forces Gomułka out of
the government.
Polish Cardinal Karol Wojtyła is elected Pope and takes the
name John Paul II.
The fledgling Solidarność trade union, led by shipyard
electrician Lech Wałęsa, calls a general strike.
Explore the alleys hidden behind the Town Hall and
you’ll come across a fountain featuring a traditionally-
dressed Bamberg peasant girl carrying pails of water.
The Bambergers were poor Catholic farmers from
Bavaria, Germany, who came to Poznań about 300
years ago at the invitation of the city authorities to help
rebuild villages devastated by war and plague. The
Bambergers quickly assimilated, becoming patriotic
Poles and later even resisting Prussian attempts to re-
Germanize them. The bambrzy, as they were called,
played an important part in the history and culture of
Poznań, and you can learn more about them by visiting
the Poznań Bamber Museum (ul. Mostowa 7/9, D-2).
July - October 2015 17 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Basic History
The Prime Minister, General Wojciech Jaruzelski, declares
martial law on December 13th.
Pope John Paul II makes his first visit to Poznań. Martial law
is lifted and Wałęsa wins the Nobel Peace Prize.
Poland’s economic crisis deepens and popular frustration
Solidarność is legalised and the government agrees
to meet 21 demands for improved living and working
conditions. Partly free elections are held. When
Solidarność sweeps the elections the communist regime
collapses. Nonetheless, the parliament elects General
Jaruzelski president, and the first post-communist
prime minister, Tadeusz Mazowiecki, forms a coalition
Price and monetary restrictions are abandoned in an
attempt to find a natural economic equilibrium. Inflation
leaps, at one point reaching 79% per year. In December
Lech Wałęsa becomes the first popularly elected president
of post-communist Poland.
Former communist Aleksander Kwaśniewski defeats Lech
Wałęsa in the November presidential elections.
Populist parties enjoy unprecedented success in
parliamentary elections and Solidarność, a major force in
1989, disappears from the political scene.
Poland enters the European Union on May 1, 2004 sparking
a mass exodus of young Poles seeking their fortunes
Following a long battle with illness Pope John Paul II passes
away on April 2. His funeral in the Vatican is attended by a
million Poles.
Poland hits world headlines after the sign above Auschwitz
concentration camp is stolen, but later recovered.
In April, Poland enters national mourning after a plane
carrying president Lech Kaczyński crashes killing all on
Poland successfully co-hosts the Euro 2012 football
tournament with neighbouring Ukraine (though the Polish
team didn’t make it out of the group stage).
More than any other major city in the country, Poznań’s
history is tied to the Piast dynasty and the very birth of
Poland. Poland’s first ruling family were the Piasts, and
though the family line goes back to the 8th century we’ll
start with Mieszko I, Poland’s first ruler (he’s the fella on
the 10zł note). Born in 935AD his life generally revolved
around the battlefield, but when he wasn’t leading his
troops into conflict from the Baltic Coast to the plains of
Silesia, he spent most of his time here in Wielkopolska,
specifically his fortresses in Poznań, Gniezno and Ostrów
Lednicki. Baptised in 966 he founded Poznań Cathedral
two years later, a move seen by many as the beginning
of the nation’s Christianisation.
Meanwhile, Adalbert - the first Bishop of Prague - arrived
in Gniezno in search of a quieter life. Soon, however, he
was persuaded out of exile to convert the barbarous
Prussian tribes to Christianity, but his head almost
immediately ended up on a spike. Back in Poz, Mieszko
had been succeeded by his son Bolesław I (find him on
the 20zł note) in 992, who decided he would personally
make the perilous journey to recover Adalbert’s corpse.
Bolesław’s act so impressed the Pope that he sent Otto
III - the head of the Holy Roman Empire - to Gniezno in
1000 to view Adalbert’s remains and meet with Bolesław.
It was during this meeting that an archbishopric was
established in Gniezno, and 25 years later Bolesław had
himself crowned King. Commonly known as ‘Bolesław
the Great’ or ‘Bolesław Chrobry’ the nation’s first regent
is credited with unifying the regions of Poland, as
well as strengthening Poland’s international standing
through his smart diplomacy. Although his son and
heir, Mieszko II, died in suspicious circumstances
nine years into his reign, the Piasts remained in power
and continued to rule Poland for centuries, despite
frequently finding themselves in conflict with the
landowners. Poland’s fragile unity regularly threatened
to disintegrate, and upon the 1320 coronation of
Władysław I concerted efforts were again made to
unite Poland’s various provinces. The work of Władysław
was carried on by King Kazimierz, who would later
be known as ‘Kazimierz the Great’ - he doubled the
size of Poland, stabilised the economy, commissioned
the construction of a numerous castles and forts, and
eventually got himself on the 50zł note. What he failed
to do, however, was have a son (despite the efforts of
four wives), and his death in 1370 marked the end of
the Piast dynasty. Although the royal court was moved
to Kraków in the 11th century the Wielkopolska region
is synonymous with the Piasts and their time at Poland’s
helm. Today, a special tourist route called ‘The Piast
Route’ connects the most important sites integral to
Poland’s early beginnings; for a comprehensive list visit
the website of the Piast Route Tourist Organisation:
18 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
| Poz Poz Poznań nań n Op Open en | P | Phot hoto: o: Pio Piotr tr & P & Pawe aweł R ł Rych ych y ter ter
Culture & Events
ARSENAŁ CITY GALLERYQC-2, Stary Rynek 6, tel.
(+48) 61 852 95 02, www.arsenal.art.pl. Open 13:00 -
20:00, Tue 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission free.
ARTISTIC CERAMICSQD-2, ul. Woźna 4, tel. (+48) 61
853 02 35, www.ceramikawozna.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 61 859 61 22, www.
artstationsfoundation5050.com. Open 12:00 - 19:00.
Admission free.
GARBARY 48 GALLERYQD-3, ul. Garbary 48, tel.
(+48) 61 852 91 70, www.garbary48.com.pl. Open 11:00
- 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
tel. (+48) 605 47 44 99, www.kinomalta.pl. Box offi ce open
from 15 minutes before the first showtime. Tickets 7-16zł.
PAŁACOWEQA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82 (Castle Cultural
Centre), tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Box
offi ce open 10:00 - 21:00. Tickets 14-17zł, Tue 11zł.
RIALTOQE-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. (+48) 61 847 53
99, www.kinorialto.poznan.pl. Box offi ce open from 30
minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after
last showtime. Tickets 10-18zł, 3D screenings 15-20zł.
80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52 60, www.ckzamek.pl. Box offi ce
open 10:00 - 21:00. Admission depending on repertoire.
POZNAŃ ESTRADAQC-1, ul. Masztalarska 8, tel.
(+48) 61 852 88 33, www.estrada.poznan.pl. Box offi ce
open 15:00 - 18:00; Tue, Fri 10:00 - 13:00; Sat, Sun on
performance days only.
tel. (+48) 61 852 47 08, www.filharmoniapoznanska.pl.
Box offi ce (University Hall, F-3, ul. Wieniawskiego 1) open
13:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 1 hour before the performance.
Note that the Philharmonic takes a summer break until
the end of September. Tickets 15-60zł.
MUSIC THEATREQG-4, ul. Niezłomnych 1e, tel. (+48)
61 852 29 27, www.teatr-muzyczny.poznan.pl. Box offi ce
open 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 09:00 - 15:00, Sat 15:00 - 18:00;
Sun 1 hour before the performance. Note that the theatre
takes a summer break until September 25. Tickets 5-120zł.
QB-2, ul. 27 Grudnia 8/10, tel. (+48) 61 852 56 28, www.
teatr-polski.pl. Box offi ce open from 10:00 until the last
performance; Sat, Sun 1 hour before performances.
Closed Mon. Note that the theatre takes a summer break
until the end of August. Tickets 20-70zł.
July - October 2015 19 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Culture & Events
19.07 SUNDAY
Led by Andrew Latimer (the only original member still in
the band), Camel are a progressive rock band from London
that grew out of a trio called The Brew in the seventies. They
have released fourteen studio albums to date, the most
recent one being A Nod and a Wink (2002).QE-4, Poznań
International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14. Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 159zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 -
21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
Far from silent, Suicide Silence are a rather bash
deathcore band from sunny California. Founded in 2002
as a side project (since most members were involved
in other groups at the time), the band released their
self-titled debut EP in 2005 and went on to record four
studio albums and sustain the death of lead singer
Mitch Lucker (not by suicide, but in a tragic motorcycle
accident). Their newest album, with vocals by Hernan
“Eddie” Hermida, is titled You Can’t Stop Me, after a set
of lyrics left behind by Lucker.QB-1, Pod Minogą Club,
ul. Nowowiejskiego 8. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
60zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary
Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00).
11.09 FRIDAY
This bunch of Aussie kids (born between 1993 and 1996,
in case you want to feel old) are YouTube comedy/music
sensations, known for awkward-teen-themed singles
like “Friend Zone”, “Real Girls Eat Cake”, and “That’s What
She Said”. Their moniker is actually an acronym for Just
Another Name Of Silly Kids In Another Nation. They
released their first EP earlier this year.QEskulap Club, ul.
Przybyszewskiego 39 (Jeżyce). Concert starts at 18:00.
Tickets 99zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik
(Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
These two renowned rock bands are both celebrating
their 50th anniversary - an impressive feat to be sure.
Started in Bradford (England), and Gdańsk, respectively,
both groups have gone through a number of line-
up changes since the sixties and amassed a loyal
fanbase. Czerwone Gitary have just released a special
anniversary album titled Jeszcze raz (One More Time).
QArena Hall, ul. Wyspiańskiego 33 (Grunwald).
Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 90-170zł, VIP 250zł.
Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary
Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
20 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
The X Factor winner James Arthur is a spunky, if vacant-
gazed 27-year-old from Middlesbrough, England. His debut
single “Impossible” came out in 2012, soon after the reality
show finale, and went on to sell an impressive 2.5 million
copies, winning an NRJ Music Award along the way. Arthur’s
debut album, named after himself, came out in November
of 2013, drawing critical reviews but peaking at no. 2 on UK
charts.QEskulap Club, ul. Przybyszewskiego 39 (Jeżyce).
Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 90-110zł. Available at
www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul.
Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
American blues rock musician Joe Bonamassa has been
a true child prodigy, opening for B.B. King at only twelve
years of age - damn impressive. He has delivered in his
adult life as well, releasing eleven studio albums, most
of which reached no. 1 on the Billboard Blues charts,
and getting a Grammy nomination for SeeSaw, a 2013
collaborative album recorded with Beth Hart. Joe has
also collaborated with Stephen Stills, Eric Clapton,
Warren Haynes, Derek Trucks, Buddy Guy, Foreigner, and
Steve Winwood. His most recent studio album, Different
Shades of Blue (2014), is the first to feature only original
songs (other than one Jimy Hendrix cover).QArena
Hall, ul. Wyspiańskiego 33 (Grunwald). Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 195-496zł. Available at www.
These stoner rock vets are celebrating 25 years of music-
making under the name Fu Manchu (after the fictional
criminal mastermind created by novelist Sax Rohmer).
Their origins go back another five years, to a formation
called Virulence - only one original member of which is
still in the band. Their most recent album, Gigantoid, came
out in 2014.QB-1, Pod Minogą Club, ul. Nowowiejskiego
8. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 55-65zł. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul.
Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
Pink Martini is one of the most multicultural bands ever,
not necessarily in terms of band member ethnicity,
but definitely in terms of musical inspiration and
multilingualism: as they say, one minute “you feel like you’re
in the middle of a samba parade in Rio de Janeiro, and in
the next moment, you’re in a French music hall of the 1930s
or a palazzo in Napoli”. Their newest album, Dream a Little
Dream, a collaboration with the von Trapps, came out in
2014.QE-4, Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska
14. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 159-249zł. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul.
Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
QA-1, ul. Fredry 9, tel. (+48) 61 659 02 31, www.
opera.poznan.pl. Box offi ce open 13:00 - 19:00; Sun
16:00 - 18:00 on performance days only. Note that
the Opera takes a summer break until September 25.
Tickets 6-130zł. Y
One night, two top-notch choreographers. This special
performance at the Great Theatre will feature Serenade
by Georges Balanchine, a 1935 classic set to Tchaikovsky’s
music, and the brand-new Infolia by contemporary
Polish choreographer Jacek Przybyłowicz, set to
music by Wojciech Kilar, Henryk Górecki, and Prasqual
(Tomasz Praszczałek).QPerformance starts at 19:00.
Ticket prices undecided at press time.
09.10 FRIDAY, 11.10 SUNDAY
If you’re planning on visiting the opera during your
stay in Poland, we recommend going for something
authentically Polish - in this case, Halka, an 1848 opera
by composer Stanisław Moniuszko, with a libretto by
poet Włodzimierz Wolski. A tale about the tragic love
of highlander girl Halka’s love for noble-born Janusz, it
depicts scenes of 19th-century Polish highlanders and
nobility.Q Tickets 12-110zł.
Alice in Wonderland
Madame Butterfly
July - October 2015 21 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Culture & Events
25.10 SUNDAY
Ever heard of the Polish duo Sistars (they were quite
popular back in 2005 or so)? Well, this is one half of that
pop/soul formation. Natalia Przybysz, who has also gone by
the stage names Natu and N’Talia, has been pursuing a solo
career since 2008, occasionally returning to collaborations
with her sister. She has released four solo studio albums so
far; most recently, Prąd (Current, 2014).QEskulap Club, ul.
Przybyszewskiego 39 (Jeżyce). Concert starts at 19:00.
Tickets 50-55zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 -
21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
26.10 MONDAY
American smooth jazz trumpeter and Grammy award
winner Chris Botti evidently likes visiting Poland, having
toured here eight or so times before - welcome back.
Throughout his career he’s collaborated with Sting, Aretha
Franklin, Bob Dylan, Diana Krall, Rod Stewart, and countless
others, while Andrea Bocelli, Mark Knopfler, and Vince Gill
are all featured on his (newest) 2012 album Impressions.
QE-4, Poznań International Fair, ul. Głogowska 14.
Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 179-299zł. Available
at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Stary Browar, C-3, ul.
Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
The world might be becoming increasingly Westernised,
but - luckily - culture and customs still flow both ways,
and the Indian spring festival of colours and love, Holi,
seems to have found more than a few enthusiasts in
many European countries, including Poland. The date
might be wayyyy off, as the real Holi is traditionally
celebrated in March (sometimes February), but you’ve
gotta make adjustments for us Northern folk who
only get a few months of real warmth. Powder will
be available for purchase at the festival (and might be
available for free if sponsors are found); bringing your
own powder isn’t allowed due to safety concerns.QŁęgi
Dębińskie, www.festiwalkolorow.pl. Admission free.
22 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
20.06 SATURDAY  18.10 SUNDAY
An exhibition dedicated solely to the art of movement;
a mishmash of music videos, clips found on the internet,
excerpts from recent dance shows, and interactive
installations that require visitors to move their own
body.QG-4, Art Stations Foundation, Stary Browar,
ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 61 859 61 22, www.
artstationsfoundation5050.com. Open 12:00 - 19:00.
Admission free.
02.07 THURSDAY  24.07 FRIDAY
This outdoor exhibition showcases three series of pho-
tographs taken by Maria Magdalena Kwiatkiewicz during
a two-week trip to Cameroon  in the fall of 2014; they
show urban culture, a spiritual rite, and everyday life in
a remote village.  QPl. Adama Mickiewicza. Admission
14.06 SUNDAY  12.09 SATURDAY
This free, summer-long series of concerts aims to promote
Poznań musicians and somewhat underappreciated parts
of the city, like the new pedestrian zone on ul. Wrocławska
and the Ballet School courtyard. There’ll be jazz, classical,
latino, and sung poetry.QC/D-1/2, The Old Town Square.
Admission free.
10.07 FRIDAY  16.07 THURSDAY
Animated films end up on the back-burner of many film
festivals, but not this one! For the eighth time, Animator
Festival will mean a week’s worth of screenings,
concerts, workshops, and lectures. Enjoy a selection
of international animated movies and music by over
thirty artists.Qwww.animator-festival.com. Tickets
1-10zł. Festival pass 50zł. Available at www.bilety24.
pl, Poznań Estrada box offi ce (ul. Masztalarska 8, C-1;
open 15:00 - 18:00; Tue, Fri 10:00 - 13:00) and at the
venue before the event.
17.07 FRIDAY  19.07 SUNDAY
Jarocin Festiwal started way back in the seventies.
Though the beginnings were humble, the festival
has since grown to considerable proportions. This
year’s line-up: Acid Drinkers, My Riot, KSU, Skubas,
The Rumjacks, Young Guns, Natalia Przybysz, Curly
Heads and many others. Get a tent, camp out, and
enjoy the summer!QJarocin, ul. Maratońska, www.
jarocinfestiwal.pl. Tickets 90-100zł. Festival pass
160zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik
(Stary Browar, C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 -
21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
July - October 2015 23 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Culture & Events
07.08 FRIDAY  14.08 FRIDAY
Combining concerts and film screenings has really become
a thing for summer festivals. Transatlantyk may be only a
couple of years old, but it has established itself firmly on
the cultural scene, featuring around 100 special guests
per edition, and coining the word glocal: global and local.
Qwww.transatlantyk.org. Ticket prices undecided at
press time.
13.08 THURSDAY  16.08 SUNDAY
Good Taste Fest is an awesome foodie holiday with an
international food fair, culinary shows and workshops,
concerts, and competitions. Brittany oysters, Hungarian
hams and preserves, Lithuanian black bread and Kindziuk,
French galettes, Belgian beer, Cypriot halloumi, Spanish
olive oils, wines from nearly every European wine-making
region - these are just some of the appetizing treats you’ll
have the opportunity to taste. Naturally there will be plenty
of regional Polish dishes as well.QC/D-2, Stary Rynek,
www.ofds.pl. Admission free.
Dancing Poznań is a week-long contemporary dance
workshop, with no restrictions concerning age or level
of ability. There’s a dizzying array of classes to chose
from (admittedly a bit heavy on jazz): lyrical jazz, modern
jazz, Broadway jazz, swing jazz, funk jazz, salsa, afro
cubano, samba, gaga, dancehall, hip-hop, pilates, yoga...
Different levels, so be sure to check!Qwww.ptt-poznan.
pl. Workshops 370-450zł. Registration at www.ptt-
Breakfast has never really been a big thing in Poland,
especially as far as eating on the town is concerned, but
that might slowly be changing as breakfast markets gain in
popularity across the country. The breakfast market features
food stands from local restaurants and caterers in a family-
friendly, outdoor environment, and is a great way to start the
weekend. On Saturdays it takes place in Park Kasprowicza
(southwest of the train station), and on Sundays in Park
Wodziczki (E/F-1).Qwww.targsniadaniowy.pl. Open Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 16:00 only.
17.10 SATURDAY  18.10 SUNDAY
Poznań Game Arena is one of the biggest video game
/ entertainment / multimedia fairs in this part of Europe.
Expect game premieres, competitions, cosplayers, and
interactive shows.QE-4, Poznań International Fair,
ul. Głogowska 14, www.gamearena.pl. Tickets 20zł.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Stary Browar,
C-3, ul. Półwiejska 42; open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 -
11.07 SATURDAY  19.07 SUNDAY
This is the twelfth time the Association of Tennis
Professionals (ATP) Challenger Tour is coming to
Poland. Previous stars who have appeared on Poznań
tennis courts include Yevgeny Kafelnikov, Marat
Safin, Juan Carllos Ferrero, Juan Martin Del Potro,
and Gilles Simon. Get ready for lots of action!QE-1,
Park Tenisowy Olimpia, ul. Warmińska 1, www.
poznanopen.pl. Tickets 10-15zł, pass 30zł. Available
before the event.
11.10 SUNDAY
If you’re a runner who doesn’t take vacations, and
you happen to be in Poznań in October, running the
Poznań Marathon could be a fun thing to do (not to
mention a good way to see the city from a different
perspective). The organisers boast that the marathon
has been occurring yearly since “the beginning of the
century”, which sounds impressive until you realize
it only means the year 2000.Qwww.marathon.
poznan.pl. Event starts at 09:00. Registration fee
Photo: Piotr & Paweł Rychter
Photo: Adam Ciereszko
24 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Poznań might have a reputation as an international centre
of commerce, but its restaurant scene is still basically in its
infancy. You will find a scattering of world-class restaurants,
but your ethnic options are limited in both number and
quality. While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the
city, the explosion of the market and its sheer redundancy
now makes that pursuit impossible. Our print guide
carries a wide selection of what we feel are Poznań’s most
noteworthy restaurants, however there are many more
listed on our website (poznan.inyourpocket.com) where
we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places
you’ve visited.
All our reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective
and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets represent
the cheapest and costliest main courses on the menu. The
opening hours we list are given to us by the restaurants but
are rough guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to
be working. Where the venue is not on our map we have
included the district where it is located in brackets. Below
is a selection of recommendations depending on what you
may be looking for.
Any ‘best of’ list in Poznań is invariably going to see a slew
of nominations for Blow Up Hall 5050 (International),
where you’ll find very modern versions of Polish cooking
in an impossibly cutting edge neo-industrial setting. For
upmarket on the market square, think nowhere else but
Le Palais (French), or for something out of the centre
the daringly modern SPOT. (International) is an ideal
Restauracja MUGA (International), and its attached Casa
De Vinos wine bar (p.46), is the perfect place to impress
your date, while Figaro (Italian) is so over-the-top you
half expect to be served by Cupid himself. For something
completely different, think of all the naughty things you can
do under the table in the pitch black of Dark Restaurant
(see p.41).
The market square’s Ratuszova is the best Polish food
you’ll find in Poznań, in one of the most elegant interiors
you’ve ever eaten in. In contrast, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem
and Wiejskie Jadło do traditional interpretations of Polish
food in rustic environs, while the hip Yeżyce Kuchnia gives
Polish cuisine a modern makeover.
The options on the market square can be overwhelming,
but Le Palais (French) and Ratuszova (Polish) are in a class
of their own, while Brovaria (International) is the people’s
choice. Gospoda Poznańska (Polish) is the place for
traditional dishes and costumed waitresses, while Whiskey
In the Jar (see p.48) serves up burgers, whiskey cocktails
and live rock bands.
In addition to our Vegetarian listings on p.40, don’t
miss hip locales like Projekt Kuchnia and SPOT. (both
International) for gluten-free and vegan dishes. If it’s Polish
food you’re after, Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem will adapt any
of their dishes exactly to your dietary needs and desires.
Sea Sea Sea Seafoo foo foo fo d i dd i d i is t s s tt s t s t s t s tthe hhe hhe he ee he hee ho hho hou hou ho ho ho ho ho se se specialty y of offf o Re Re Re Reesta sta sta sta staura ura uracja cja cja j Mo Mo M mo, mo, review on ppage g 30.
July - October 2015 25 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Seemingly divorcing themselves from the well-known
Sioux franchise, but changing almost nothing, this hokey,
but endearing Central European take on the Wild West
is good fun, especially with little outlaws. The spaghetti
western décor of wagons, wigwams and staff dressed as
ranch hands lends it a bit of a theme park atmosphere,
and the menu can’t seem to decide between steakhouse,
Mexican cantina, American diner, and European tavern, but
most everyone we know admits this tourist trap is a guilty
pleasure.QD-2, Stary Rynek 93, tel. (+48) 61 851 62 86,
www.restauracjaclassic.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (15-99zł). TGBSW
Some baulk at the prices, but there’s no escaping that
Someplace Else is the full monty - here’s a place that
gets both food and drink completely right, with a largely
American/Tex-Mex menu hitting points for the best burger
for miles - sometimes that’s just what you need. The diner
design is straight out of road-trip USA, and a great spot
for ties-off, after-offi ce chow and beers. With 9 TVs, this is
also one of your best bets for catching that match - be it
European or American.QE-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton
Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.
someplace-else.pl. Open 17:00 - 00:30, Sun 12:00 -
23:30. (14-67zł). TUGSWY
Only a stones throw from Stary Rynek, what was once a
location known for late night ex-pat drinking sessions (under
the auspices of ‘The Vikings’ and ‘Murna’) has managed to re-
establish itself as a rather excellent French bistro specialising
in fresh ‘fruits de mer’ and duck confit. The small, but cosy
interior makes is plenty inviting, but the outdoor summer
garden is the real reason to visit. Why battle for seats when
you can enjoy fresh mussels and a carafe of fine French wine
in a relaxed atmosphere before entering the bright lights of
the square? Well recommended.QC-2, ul. Murna 3a (corner
of ul. Kozia), tel. (+48) 600 44 17 69, www.bistrolacocotte.
pl/poznan. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (25-46zł). TGBW
G No smoking T Child-friendly
6 Animal friendly N Credit cards not accepted
S Take away U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery X Smoking room available
E Live music W Wi-fi connection
ulica Murna 3a, 61-771 Poznań
/lacocotte.poznan, tel. 600 441 769
Mon - Fri lunch 13:00 - 17:00 for 17 PLN
Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing
while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re
likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego!
(Enjoy your meal!)
śniadania breakfast
zupa soup
przystawki appetisers
dania główne main dishes
dodatki side dishes
ziemniaki potatoes
kapusta cabbage
ser cheese
chleb bread
warzywa vegetables
owoce fruit
mięso meat
kurczak chicken
wieprzowina pork
wołowina beef
ryba fish
deser dessert
ciasto cake
lody ice cream
napoje drinks
kawa coffee
piwo beer
26 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
A standout restaurant that’s been winning the plaudits
for years. The main square location may mark it out as a
tourist trap, but that couldn’t be further from the truth - Le
Palais scores points for excellent nouvelle cuisine, as well
as a wine cellar that knocks spots off the competition. As
evening hits expect this modern, cream-coloured eatery
to fill out with big shots making full use of the expense
account.QC-2, Stary Rynek 37, tel. (+48) 61 665 85 85,
www.lepalaisdujardin.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00; Fri, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 01:00. (19-89zł). TGBSW
Despite being within spitting distance of the Rynek,
Podgórna isn’t the most fashionable street in Poznań so we
were pleasantly surprised to discover this trendy eatery and
cafe. Fresh sourdough bread is baked before your eyes in the
minimal-chic interior, and the menu comprises not only a
range of sandwiches, soups and appetisers to complement
the bakery, but also a full card of rich and colourful fusion
creations to complement the upmarket tastes of the wine list.
Everything from the kitchen looks like it could be featured in a
food art magazine (in fact they sometimes offer workshops on
food photography), and overall Drukarnia is evidence of just
how far the city’s culinary scene has come on in the past few
years.QC-2, ul. Podgórna 6, tel. (+48) 61 850 14 20. Open
07:00 - 22:00, Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00
- 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (15-79zł). T6GBSW
Top class dining in the Sheraton’s showpiece restaurant.
Chic and sexy this is designer dining the way it’s meant to
be with inventive dishes like Thai style noodles appearing
from out of the open kitchen. Floor to ceiling windows
allow for plenty of light, as well as views of the proletariat
scurrying to work. Also of interest is their intimate wine
room which can be booked in advance for up to 4 people,
a menu created with the chef and where over 60 wines
are available to go with the meal of your choice.QE-3,
ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61
655 20 00, www.fusion-poznan.pl. Open 06:30 - 11:00,
12:00 - 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 17:00. (40-85zł).
There was a time back when non-carnivore tourists had to
make do with either cheese-filled pierogi, boiled cabbage
or potatoes. But the times they are certainly a-changing.
This little restaurant sets the standards high and the garden,
with its perfect mix of candles and plants, makes for the
perfect romantic setting. In a country not known for its love
of spicy cuisine, the ‘hot Thai curry’ goes down very well
and the samosa starters are a great way to get you prepared
for your main dish. Big thumbs up all round.QD-2, ul.
Woźna 17, tel. (+48) 61 639 35 95. Open 12:00 - 20:30,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (16-35zł). T6GBSW
Restaurant & Bar
ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. +48 61 859 05 90
gastronomy@donprestige.com, www.donprestige.com
ul. Podgórna 6
Poznan 61-82§
Lel. +/8 61 8¸O 1/ 2O
July - October 2015 27 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
The Don Prestige has seen an impressive reboot from top
to bottom, with the ShaDes restaurant being the final
touch on one of the better city centre hotels. The space is
a cosy mix of plums and greens with an elaborate bar that
promotes an impressive array of cocktails and a seasonal
menu of simple sandwiches and entrees that prove ShaDes
was not an afterthought in the hotel’s redesign. Note
that the restaurant will be closed in July and August,
reopening in September when opening hours may
change.QC-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2 (Don Prestige Hotel), tel.
(+48) 61 859 05 05, www.donprestige.com. Open 12:00
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. (12-70zł). TGSW
Relive your Mediterranean summer at this Greek owned
joint. Blue and white interiors come adorned with pics of
Greek beach scenes and scale models of fishing vessels
while the menu is a romp through classics like souvlaki and
lamb ribs.QB-2, Pl. Wolności 14, tel. (+48) 61 853 34 36,
www.tawerna-mykonos.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (28-56zł). TGSW
Regular readers of our Poznań guide will know that the
city has had some issues with ethnic food over the years,
none so much as Indian. Not here though. If it’s Indian
you want then this is the recommended place in this city,
though because of the paucity of the competition that’s
not the plaudit it might sound. Lunches from 11:30-15:30
Mon-Fri include a 19zł vegetarian option and an 24zł
meat option.QA-2, ul. Mielżyńskiego 16/3a (entrance
from ul. 27 Grudnia), tel. (+48) 61 855 75 57, www.
restauracjaindyjskashivaz.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:30, Sun
12:00 - 21:30. (24-34zł). UVGBSW
For those staying in the centre, it’s easy to overlook Taj India
due to its location up at Lake Malta. But if a walk around
Malta is on your to-do list then you could do a lot worse
than pop in for a bite to eat. Granted, from the outside it
doesn’t look like much, but the inside decor is authentic
without being too over the top and the staff are extremely
helpful. The menu provides all you’d expect from an Indian
restaurant, including Chicken Vindaloo, Lamb Roghan
Josh, a good selection of veggie options and all the
extras - naans, beers, poppadoms and the like - required
to supplement the meal.QJ-4, ul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48)
61 876 62 49, www.tajindia.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (22-
46zł). TUGBSW
Join us for
Immaculate buffet with Mediterranean
and Polish specialties.
Dishes prepared by our chefs based on
your individual preferences.
Every Sunday from 1 PM until 5 PM.
130 PLN per person.
Discounts for children.
Fusion Restaurant (Sheraton Poznan Hotel)
ul. Bukowska 3/9, Poznan
phone 61 655 2000
135+ Restaurant reviews online:
28 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Overlooking Lake Malta, 3 Kolory is a bright, modern
and welcoming restaurant which is definitely worthy of
a visit despite its location on the far side of the lake.
The menu caters to all tastes (salads, fish, steaks, pizzas,
spaghetti) and the dishes are so beautifully presented
(steaks served on cedar planks!) that it’s almost a shame
to have to eat them. But don’t let that stop you. The food
is cooked via the sous vide technique (low temps) and
on grill stones to create unique flavours. The karkówka
steak would be our personal recommendation, but to
be fair every dish being brought out of the kitchen
looked tempting and a return visit is certainly on
the cards.QK-4, ul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 501 40
28 27, www.3-kolory.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. (25-105zł).
Blow Up 5050 is a combination of gastronomy and art
that will blow your socks off. The name is a combination
of the 1966 Antonioni thriller combined with the owner’s
philosophy of making all her enterprises 50% art and 50%
business. Complementing the award winning hotel and
bar is the restaurant, where prices are at the very top end of
the Poznań market - as is the quality. The seasonal cuisine is
superb and the surroundings will leave you feeling you’ve
become part of a living art exhibition, making it a truly
unique experience in Poland, and perhaps even Europe.
QG-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 90, www.
blowuphall5050.com. Open 15:00 - 22:00. (20-130zł).
Go formal and pick the right hand room for a
smoothly subdued dining area or else do as the rank-
and-file and head either to the brewing hall outback,
the bar to the side, or the al fresco terrace. Brovaria
have something for everyone, with the premium
prices reserved for a tender fillet steak served with
a separate bowl of swirly mashed potato. Or consider
tucking into the beer feast - essentially a huge platter
piled inches high with a mix of seafood and meat. Not
for nothing have Brovaria been crowned king of the
expatriate scene.QC-2, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria
Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl.
Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (23-64zł).
A long-standing editorial favourite, thanks to their
willingness to buck trends and try something different.
The design is what you would call post-industrial and
the clientele sharp-dressed and out to impress. The food
comes beautifully presented by effi cient staff and the
menu features some mouth-watering options such as beef
tenderloin in truffl e sauce with foie gras, served on roasted
July - October 2015 29 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
We specialise in international cuisine
without any boundaries - original
imaginative dishes created daily.
Above all we fell in love with fsh and
seafood. Seafood platter, pot of
mussels, tuna steak and lobster
are our specialities.
MOMO love at frst bite
Address: Szewska 2, 61-760 Poznań
Reservation: +48 501 415 136
cauliflower puree . There’s now a live cooking station,
and local DJs sometimes take to the decks to provide a
chilled-out mood, so check out what’s on beforehand.
QE-3, ul. Zwierzyniecka 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 44 19, www.
concordiataste.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
(18-69zł). TUGSW
Climb up the steps and enter what is one of the city’s more
innovative and fresh-looking restaurants. The light and
airy wood-filled rooms make it a great place to drool over
the menu (while we weren’t able to sample everything
this time, the pork tenderloin with chanterelle mushroom
sauce has certainly given us an excuse to return) and a
great little kids area allows you to enjoy your meal in peace.
QE-3, ul. Dąbrowskiego 42 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 797 99
79 95, www.dabrowskiego.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri
10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (18-
62zł). T6GBSW
Poznań fine dining doesn’t get better than this. Winner
of countless accolades, Delicja serves a combo of
Mediterranean and Polish recipes including a superb roast
lamb. This definitely falls at the upper end of the food chain,
and the interior comes filled with silver candleholders,
immaculate linen and live classical music - check online
for when concerts are scheduled.QB-2, Pl. Wolności 5, tel.
(+48) 61 852 11 28, www.delicja.eu. Open 13:00 - 23:00.
(48-85zł). T6EGBSW
Tucked away deep inside the IBB Andersia Hotel,
Flavoria isn’t the type of place you just stumble across
by accident. But those willing to sniff it out will find
a smart, modern restaurant with a good mixture of
international cuisine ranging from standard buffet
breakfasts (06:30 - 11:00 daily) to more sophisticated
evening dishes like boar loin and garlic. With daylight
streaming through the large windows by day and dim
candlelight during dinner, Flavoria is one of the city’s
more formal restaurants, ideal for business lunches
and other such upmarket eating occasions.QG-4, Pl.
Andersa 3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 80
81, www.andersiahotel.pl. Open 06:30 - 11:00, 13:00 -
23:00. (33-95zł). TGWY
An excellent place to indulge in some fine food whilst
taking in the sights and sounds of Stary Browar. A modern
and classy interior is matched with a spot-on menu which
uses fresh, organic ingredients. As well as serving up
all-day breakfasts, salmon fillets, pizzas and pastas, the
bread is cooked on-site and their home-made jams will
leave you licking your lips and wanting more. If the sun
is shining, enjoy your lunch in the garden terrace.QG-4,
ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 44,
www.le-targ.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
(19-59zł). TUGSW
30 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Poznań’s culinary scene has come on leaps and bounds
over the last couple of years and nowhere is it more evident
than here. Located in the heart of the city’s bustling Stary
Browar shopping centre, Projekt Kuchnia provides a sleek,
sexy environment in which to enjoy some of the finest
food around town. Oh, and did we mention that much of
it is organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free or dairy-free?
Though the menu doesn’t discriminate against carnivores
by any stretch, those on a special diet will find their Shangri-
La here, and their foodie friends will be glad they tagged
along. The top quality extends from the breakfast menu
to the wine list, and if you’re browsing around the Old
Brewery, you can stop your search for the best place to eat -
this is it.QC-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping
Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 67 77, www.projektkuchnia.pl.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00
- 20:00. (30-110zł). TUGSW
Taking over from the well-loved Muchos Patatos, Momo
has a lot to live up to, but plays it off deftly. Pasta dishes,
steaks and salads are all on offer, but it’s the fresh seafood
that really stands out with outstanding and imaginative
dishes created daily. The chef changes the first page of the
menu each morning, and the friendly staff is more than
willing to top up your wine glass. With plenty of rooms to
choose from, we prefer the room to the right with the menu
plastered on the wall, but for something a bit more relaxing
head to the back where you can park yourself down in one
of the colourful couches and let off some steam - a perfect
stress-free zone.QD-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 501 41 51
36. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (30-70zł).
Located right next door to Casa de Vinos wine bar (just
step through the glass door), MUGA has managed to serve
up a perfect mixture of fine European food, great service
and excellent wine. The seasonal menu rivals anything
else we’ve sampled and the bright, well-lit interior makes
for a warm and inviting stay. Though veering towards the
higher-end of the scale, stop in for lunch (served Mon-Fri
13:00 - 15:30) to get a starter, entree and coffee or water
for 45zł. A perfect spot for courting couples, business deals
and those looking to impress, first-daters should head
to the far corner where intimacy is almost encouraged.
QC-3, ul. Krysiewicza 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 10 35, www.
restauracjamuga.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Note that opening hours may be subject to change. (55-
90zł). TGW
Situated within spitting distance of the main square, this
is one of Poznań’s hidden treasures. The main dining room
is much like that of any restaurant, but head through
the back and you find yourself in a small, beautifully-lit
covered courtyard which will have you kneeling down
on one knee and proposing to your darling within
Not a popular meal in Poland, breakfast (śniadania)
means a cigarette and coffee to most, or if you’re lucky
a plate of ham, cheese, tomato and bread. Breakfast on
Poznań’s main square is elusive, and often not available
until at least 10:00. But who’s getting up early after a
night on the town? Here are your best local bets for a
fortifying start to the day.
An open buffet costing 38zł in one of Poznan’s top
locations, right on the square.QC-2, Stary Rynek 73-
74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.
brovaria.pl. Breakfast served 07:00 - 10:00. (38zł).
The Sheraton Sunday Brunch is one of the best
reasons to get out of bed. Adults pay 130zl (half price
kids between 6-12, free for anyone younger), which
covers a lavish buffet spread and a free flow of booze.
Popular with high rolling Poles and expats, you’ll be
hard pressed to find a better use for Sunday afternoon.
QE-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel),
tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.fusion-poznan.pl.
Brunch served Sun 13:00 - 17:00. TUGSW
A perfect breakfast option, where the most important
meal of the day is served all day. Choose from French
classics like croque madame, crepes, croissant
sandwiches, tartines and more - all made from
authentic French ingredients, and delicious fresh bread
that is baked on-site.QG-4, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary
Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (10-20zł). UGBSW
Combine this with Petit Paris and apparently Stary
Browar is the place in Poznań to start the day. Breakfast
options here are plentiful, healthy and eco-minded in
terms of the ingredients - eggs come from free range
chickens, rice, almond and soy milk are available, as is
fresh-squeezed orange juice. Choose from omelettes,
scrambled eggs, yoghurt with granola, porridge,
sandwiches and more, including some vegan, gluten-
free and dairy-free options.QC-3, ul. Półwiejska
42 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 67 77, www.
projektkuchnia.pl. Breakfast served 09:00 - 12:00,
Sun 10:00 - 12:00. (14-20zł). TUGSW
July - October 2015 31 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
minutes. With shrimps, duck breast and mussels on the
menu, there are plenty of high-brow choices, but leave
some space for wine as well. An absolute diamond, you
won’t want to go anywhere after your meal.QD-2, Pl.
Kolegiacki 5 (Hotel Kolegiacki), tel. (+48) 61 855 05 05,
www.patioprovence.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (22-70zł).
Fashion, design and cuisine collide at SPOT, a unique
shopping complex set inside the beautifully restored late
19th century Wilda power station, which is surrounded by
a lovely green park. Home to several shops and services,
including a fashion boutique, hairdresser, spa and photo
studio, it all serves as mere garnish for the excellent
restaurant, which should be your main motivation for
visiting. Sporting a smart post-industrial swagger with
monochrome colours, exposed bricks and retro kitsch
decor, the atmosphere is inspired and the menu offers
sophisticated European cuisine accented by exotic Asian
flavours, including vegetarian and gluten-free dishes.
With Belgian lagers, a large selection of wines and their
own sommelier, this is Poznań at its cutting edge best.
QG-5, ul. Dolna Wilda 87, tel. (+48) 61 835 88 40,
www.spot.poznan.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00
- 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (28-61zł).
Is Vine Bridge the smallest restaurant in Poland? Their
three-table dining room sure makes a good case for their
claim. Each table is garnished with a tiny tomato plant,
echoing the wee-ness of the experience. The menu offers
intriguing dishes like flax seed pancakes and “meat in clay,”
which are meant to echo the cuisine of centuries ago in
Ostrówek (appropriately, Poland’s smallest city), where
the restaurant is located. You’ll also notice it’s one of your
only eating options in the area around Ostrów Tumski. The
brainchild of the Dark Restaurant folks, it’s unlikely you will
leave unsatisfied, and the dishes themselves will be worthy
of photographs.QI-3, ul. Ostrówek 6, tel. (+48) 61 875 09
34, www.vinebridge.pl. Open 12:30 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 -
20:00. Closed Mon. (20-45zł). T6GSW
Weranda is a restaurant worthy of its setting at the
confluence of the old and new portions of the vast Stary
Browar shopping centre, with an open two-story skylit
space (what the hell are those colourful things hanging
from the ceiling?) that is breathtaking even in a building
that’s known for its architecture. If upscale mall dining
exists then Weranda has perfected it, with a dish of the
day (27zl from 12:00-16:00) that can be anything from
pasta to grilled meat to whatever strikes the chef’s fancy.
All of it can be paired with wine, easily making shopping
an afterthought.QG-4, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar),
tel. (+48) 61 859 69 69, www.werandafamily.com. Open
09:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 -
20:00. (30-42zł). TUGSW
32 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Looking for Poznań’s best pizzeria? Look no further. To be honest,
labelling this place a pizzeria is a bit of a cop out as the menu also
offers up breakfasts, macaroni dishes and salads, and the smart,
elegant interior rivals some of the city’s better restaurants. A
good mixture of wines to order by the glass or bottle and plenty
of beers and spirits mean that if you’re coming here to line your
stomach, that inevitable ul. Taczaka pub crawl may kick off later
than you planned.Qul. Taczaka 11, tel. (+48) 61 883 43 15,
www.baraboo.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00, Sat
11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (10-29zł). TUXSW
If five pages of pizzas to choose from doesn’t convince you
of what Donatello’s star attraction is, then the swift trade in
takeout will: we watched one employee whose sole task it
was to assemble pizza boxes for delivery. Toppings include
everything from mussels to anchovies, and you can even
build your own if the double-digit options somehow don’t
appeal to you. A banquet room is available, but the customary
trattoria décor is easily outshined by the food, which also
includes plenty of pasta dishes and crispy garlic bread. Also
at ul. Wrocławska 7.QE-3, ul. Grunwaldzka 29c, tel. (+48) 61
865 32 99, www.donatello.poznan.pl. Open 13:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. (17-60zł). TUVGS
Romantic repasts and serious business dinners take place
amongst these starched tablecloths and vases of flowers.
Prices are steep, but well within the spending power of
most Western visitors. Diners can choose from a large list
of pastas, beef tenderloin, veal and an expansive wine
list. What Figaro is famous for though is its fresh fish and
seafood, which is said to be among the best in the city.
Those wanting to really push the boat out may wish to take
advantage of the restaurant’s VIP room, which can be hired
out for those extra special occasions.QC-3, ul. Ogrodowa
17, tel. (+48) 61 856 01 89, www.restauracjafigaro.eu.
Open 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. From September 13:00 -
23:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (25-83zł). TGSW
Poznań has more than its fair share of Italian restaurants,
but few command more confidence and sophistication
than Lugana. Suitably located inside the modern City Park
complex, Lugana features a smart, simple interior and lovely
seasonal terrace, beset with wine glasses waiting to be filled
with their signature Lugana vintage. Activate your taste
buds with original dishes that not only delight the senses,
but impress the eye with their outstanding presentation -
octopus carpaccio, buratta cheese salad, and rabbit loin
with potato puree, smoked bacon, beets, figs and nuts. We
were impressed, and so will be anyone you’re wise enough
to make a reservation for here.Qul. Wojskowa 4, tel. (+48)
61 307 05 02, www.lugana.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. (23-74zł). TUGBSW
ul. Ogrodowa 17, 61-821 Poznań
tel. +48 61 856 01 89
July - October 2015 33 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
This charming Italian venture sets itself apart by letting
the food speak for itself with simple dishes that will knock
you out. We aren’t kidding about the simple - your pasta
can be as basic as spaghetti noodles with olive oil, garlic,
tomatoes and parmesan, and in your snobbier moments
you might think it sounds like something you could easily
do at home. You can’t. Even the straightforward grilled
veggies seem elevated somehow. An Italian restaurant
delightfully free of cliché, but full of flavour, stop by during
lunch (Mon-Fri 11:00 - 17:00) for some savings on your bill.
QB-2, ul. Św. Marcin 34, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 33, www.
mollini.pl. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. (20-
60zł). TGSW
Attached to the side of the Stary Browar shopping
mall, Piano Bar rates as one of the top options in
Poz. The background aesthetics are fantastic, with
cream shades paired with moody lighting and
striking art exhibitions. Although you’ll find all the
expected Italian pasta and Mediterranean dishes, it’s
the fish that tends to steal the show here, which is
something of a boon in landlocked Poznań.QC-3,
ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall),
tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl.
Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (28-140zł).
The tendency in Poland is for a new cuisine to be
launched and then a procession of new restaurants
to open all serving pretty much the same ‘fashionable’
cuisine. Here Kuro have taken the cuisine of a few years
ago - Sushi - and mixed it with the cuisine of the last
year - Thai. The results to be fair are very, very good
and the ul. Wodna location means you won’t have
to go far to find it. Find both hot and cold Japanese
dishes and some very tasty Thai in a handsome room
with remarkably friendly people working there.QD-2,
ul. Wodna 8/9, tel. (+48) 61 887 04 30, www.kuro.pl.
Open 13:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-
40zł). TGSW
The City Park development just to the west of the centre
(past the Trade Fairs) is home to some of the city’s best
eating establishments and this is true for Kyokai, one of
Poznań’s best Japanese efforts. Laid out over two floors,
sushi sets revolve around a circular bar, while a sushi
sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. Set in a series of
converted red brick buildings, the surroundings look
chic and sexy, as do the clientele. Definitely one to check
out, take tram 13 to the ‘Wojskowa’ stop.Qul. Wojskowa
4 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 519 37 61 82, www.kyokai.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (35-60zł).
Mollini Ristorante
ul. Sw. Marcìn ¸/
61-8O6 Poznan
keservaLìon. +/8 61 8¸ 2¸ ¸¸¸
Welcome in a real
Italian restaurant
34 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Five star sushi served inside a pale vanilla coloured interior
equipped with all the necessary rice paper panels and bamboo
extras. Raw fish circles the bar in small wooden boats, ready to be
snapped up by wasp-waisted fashionista revelling in the chance
to showoff deftly executed chopstick moves.QD-2, ul. Wodna
7/1, tel. (+48) 61 853 16 39, www.sakana.pl. Open 12:00 -
23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (40-80zł). TUVGSW
An expansion from their Warsaw and Wrocław operations,
Zindo’s modern beige-heavy space still appears to be struggling
to attract attention from the folks in Poznań. A lunchtime sushi
buffet was the busiest we saw the place, and provides more of a
bang-for-your-buck experience than the pricier dinner option.
The Korean menu is a standout, and adventurous eaters can
indulge in octopus, fried squid or raw fish with vegetables to
test their mettle. More traditional options like kimchi are reliably
well done.QD-1, ul. Kramarska 15, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 78,
www.zindo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (30-70zł). TGSW
Poznań’s classic Jewish restaurant Cymes has morphed into
Ludwiku do Rondla (Ludwik to the Pan, a way of saying
“make my dinner!”), which means the menu is now a mix
of traditional Polish cuisine as well as the consistent Jewish
dishes (like herring in marinade and a Jewish caviar) that
were the hallmark of Cymes. Note that you will have to stifle
a giggle while paging through the English translations of
the Jewish dishes as the poultry stomachs brewed in curry
have been randomly translated as “goose cunt.” Yes, we
snapped a picture too.QD-2, ul. Woźna 2/3, tel. (+48) 61
851 66 38. Open 13:00 - 22:00. (14-32zł). TGS
A bit of a new kid on the block, this bright, industrial-styled
Mexican restaurant was absolutely heaving when we visited.
The menu boasts all the usual classics such as tacos, enchiladas
and nachos, and there’s a decent section for the little ones as
well. These boys clearly know what they’re doing and if our
trip was anything to go by, this looks like it’s going to be a hit.
QB-3, ul. Taczaka 24, tel. (+48) 61 225 77 55. Open 12:00 -
22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (15-46zł). TGBSW
Is the Polish food in Mexico this bad? Boyish waiters dressed as
cowboys greet diners at the door, then lead you to take your
chances on what might stand out as the most shocking meal
of your year. We’d like to see a picture of the cook added to the
Wanted posters, as the man is clearly a charlatan of the most
sinister design. Barely defrosted tortillas arrive hidden under sickly
green gunk that wastes no time in letting the guts know they’re
in serious trouble.QC-1, ul. Kramarska 19, tel. (+48) 61 851 05
36, www.mexican.pl. Open 13:30 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Sun 11:30
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. (20-41zł). TEGSW
ul. Kramarska 15, www.zindo.pl
reservation (61) 853-01-78
Korean-Japanese cuisine
Circular sushi bar
60zł per person
Eat all you want
All week!

12:00 - 17:00
July - October 2015 35 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
A lot has changed
since communism
got kneecapped and
Poland joined the EU.
While many of the old
ways of the old days
have disappeared
or become slightly
disneyfied in today’s
tourist-laden Kraków, one relic remains resolutely un-
Western: the Polish milk bar, or bar mleczny. These
steamy cafeterias serving proletariat cuisine to an
endless queue of tramps, pensioners and students
provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and
have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a
gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a
few coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin,
albeit an extremely well-fed one. Put Ostrów Tumski
on hold, a visit to the milk bar is a required cultural
experience for anyone who has just set foot in the
As restaurants were nationalised across the country
by PL’s communist authorities after WWII, milk bars
appeared in their place to provide cheap, dairy-based
meals to the masses (as cheerlessly as possible,
apparently); in fact meals at the local milk bar were
often included in a worker’s salary. In addition to milk,
yoghurt, cottage cheese and other dairy concoctions,
milk bars offered omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as
flour-based foods like pierogi. Times were so desperate
under communism that many milk bars chained
the cutlery to the table to deter rampant thievery;
by this same reasoning you’ll notice that most milk
bars today use disposable dishes and the salt and
pepper are dispensed from plastic cups with a spoon.
Similarly, the orders are still taken by ashen-faced, all-
business babcias (Polish grannies), and the food is as
inspired as ever - the only difference being that meat
is no longer rationed in modern PL. With the collapse
of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt,
however, some of these feed museums were saved and
continue to be kept open through state subsidies. The
range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing
time approaches, so go early, go often.
APETYTQC-2, ul. Szkolna 4, tel. (+48) 61 852 07
42. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00
- 20:00.
POD ARKADAMIQB-2, Pl. Ratajskiego 10, tel.
(+48) 61 852 22 98. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 -
17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. N
PRZYSMAKQC-2, ul. Podgórna 2, tel. (+48) 61 852
13 39. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. N
Traditional beef roulade served with black lentils and beetroot puree
Traditional Polish Cuisine
Sous Vide Technique
PHONE: +48 618 510 513
OPEN: MON-SAT 12-23, SUN 12-22
PHONE +48 519 376 182, SUSHIKYOKAI.PL
36 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Polish cuisine
Gospoda Poznańska
Stary Rynek 82, Poznań
+48 (61) 851 80 22
Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the
world of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the
following to the test:
Bigos: Also known as Hunter’s Stew. Though there’s no
standard recipe for this hearty dish, it’s usually made
using meat, cabbage, onions, sauerkraut and whatever
else is around, and then left to simmer for a few days.
If you have second helpings then consider yourself a
Pole by default.
Gołąbki: Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite
dish consists of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with
beef, onion and rice before being baked and served
with a tomato or mushroom sauce.
Golonka: Pork knuckle, as in pig’s thigh. A true Polish
delicacy, the meat should slip right off the bone, be
served with horseradish, and washed down with beer.
Go caveman.
Kiełbasa: Sausages, and in Polish shops you’ll find an
enormous variety, made from everything from turkey
to bison.
Pierogi: Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with
potato (Ruskie), sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and
cabbage, or fruit, though if you nose around you will
find plenty of maverick fillings like broccoli, chocolate
or liver; the possibilities are truly limitless and they are
served almost everywhere.
Placki: These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very
similar to Jewish latkes and best enjoyed with goulash
on top (placki po Węgiersku). Highly caloric, they’re also
a tried and true hangover cure.
Zupa (Soup): Poland has two signature soups: barszcz
and żurek. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be
served with potatoes or mini-pierogi floating in it, or
with a croquette for dunking, but we prefer to order it
‘solo’ in a mug for drinking. Żurek is a unique sour rye
soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg
chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.
Gołąbki © quinn.anya/www.flickr.com/CC BY-SA 2.0
July - October 2015 37 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
BAZAR 1838
Set in the historic building that once housed (and will
again someday, according to rumours) the Hotel Bazar,
the name of this smart restaurant honours both the
building and the year it was built. Looking far pricier from
the outside than it actually is, the food scores well in the
price to quality ratio, and is served by a friendly English-
speaking staff. Along with imaginative interpretations of
typical Polish dishes you’ll find pastas, salads and a variety
of original dishes. Definitely a place to impress without
buckling the credit card, though you may have to protect
the plastic from the exclusive shops nearby.QC-2,
ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 222 68 64, www.
bazar1838.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
(24-89zł). TUGSW
Anyone who has set foot in Poland before will have no
doubt eaten in Chłopskie Jadło - a national franchise which
offers good old Polish grub at a reasonable price. This new
Poznań location nails the formula and trademark tourist-
approved standards like pierogi (over 30 varieties), hearty
cutlets and żurek soup in crusty bread bowls are as good
here as you’ll find anywhere. The interior is also refreshingly
modern, while retaining some folksy motifs, and a
playground for kids makes this a good option for families.
As is the case with most Polish restaurants, you’ll be leaving
extremely filled with a smile on your face, and a willingness
to come back.QA-1, ul. Fredry 12, tel. (+48) 61 855 00
88, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00. (10-60zł). TUGBSW
Those looking for decent hearty grub in the centre could
do worse than Gospoda Poznańska. Good old-fashioned
Polish fare such as gołąbki in tomato sauce or breaded pork
cutlets will line your stomach and set you up perfectly for
a night of pub-crawling across the main square. Kitted out
in typical folk cottage style, the decor consists of wooden
beams, local photos and brick walls, providing the perfect
backdrop for throwing back a few flavoured vodka shots
to help you digest your meal.QC-2, Stary Rynek 82,
tel. (+48) 61 851 80 22, www.gospodapoznanska.
pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (18-59zł).
Filled with dusty bottles and timber touches, the Mill
Wheel is a signature Polish restaurant with a menu
that takes its ingredients seriously; the fish are caught
first thing in the morning, while the duck apparently
comes from the adjacent lake. Tell them in advance and
they’ll spit-roast a pig for you. Recommended.Qul.
Browarna 37 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 878 99 35,
www.mlynskiekolo.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00. (30-70zł).
Genuine Polish Cuisine
Within a modern folk scenery,
you can savour traditional meals
based on classic Polish recipes.
We offer you over 30 types
of “pierogi” dumplings,
sour rye soup in bread
and country style specialties.
Fredry 12 st.
61-701 Poznan
tel. (72) 510-05-25
“pierogi” dumplings
sour rye soup in bread
p|atnosc kartç
cred|t card
ogródek |etn|
summer garden
car park
38 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Poznań, ul Garbary 54
tel.: 061 851 99 70
A kitchen like at mama‘s
with recipes like at Granny‘s

Resembling a traditional mountain lodge, ‘Under the Bell’
is bursting with giant timber beams, beautiful 200-year-
old wooden furniture, rusty machinery, old pots and pans,
piles of dusty books - even the barstools are fashioned
out of saddles. It all contributes to a congenial rustic
atmosphere, and while the menu focuses on traditional
Polish fare with mouth-watering renditions of classics
such as żurek soup, ribs and goose, the philosophy of the
kitchen is hardly the throwback that the interior suggests;
all dishes can be prepared vegan, gluten-free or to any
other dietary needs if specified when ordering. Score a
sweet deal with soup and an entree for only 15zł Mon-
Fri 12:00 - 16:00.QD-2, ul. Garbary 54, tel. (+48) 61
851 99 70, www.oberza.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (18-69zł).
A long-standing restaurant squirreled away in the
complex of buildings at the centre of the town
square. Tiffany lamps, stained glass panels and
other classic touches add an awkwardly formal
feel to the restaurant, though that does nothing to
detract from a strong European menu that includes
several local dishes. The pierogi are excellent. QC-2,
Stary Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 99 17, www.
bamberka.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (28-68zł).
Bare brick walls, chalked-up menus and a general
stripped-down approach seems to be all the rage for
new eateries in Poznań these days - and that’s certainly
the path Racja Mięsa have chosen to go down. But why
change a winning formula? It’s basic, it’s minimal but
the food’s decent enough (think local soups and steaks)
and the staff are happy to talk you through the menu,
which changes on a regular basis. The on-wall diagrams
depicting the different parts of pigs and cows should be
enough to get any avid meat eater excited. Yep, we like
it.QD-1, ul. Szewska 20, tel. (+48) 515 69 20 20. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
(12-55zł). 6UGSW
One of the longest established places in town and
with good reason. Located right on the main square,
Ratuszova serves up a vast array of healthy and modern
seasonal dishes using the innovative sous vide method
not found in many other Poznań restaurants. If the
beautiful and unique interior doesn’t impress you
(and it should) then the menu surely will. Prepare to
indulge yourself with classics such as roast duck with
apple, veal cheeks, czernina (duck blood) soup, pierogi
and other Polish standards. A perfect spot to spoil
yourself.QC-2, Stary Rynek 55, tel. (+48) 61 851 05
13, www.ratuszova.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (19-89zł).
July - October 2015 39 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
PHONE: +48 618 510 513
Where King Jan II Kazimierz Waza
resided in 1657-1658 you may savour
authentic traditional Polish cuisine
and dishes of an international flavour
expertly prepared by our highly
experienced Chef. Four different areas
are available for our Guests:
Restaurant, Cafe, Bar & Summer Garden
Sous - Vide beef sirloin steak in cracked pepper sauce
Traditional polish ginger cake with vanilla ice - creams
Traditional Polish Cuisine
Sous Vide Technique
Warto nad Wartą seems to have it bang on - a classy joint
located plonk in the centre, but just far away enough to
escape the hustle and bustle of the main market square. To
simply label this as a Polish restaurant would be an injustice
given its range of international dishes and our main picks
would be the mushroom risotto and the steak. The fine
selection of desserts (and great selection of wines) coupled
with a smart interior make this a fine starting point before
hitting some of the city’s more upmarket bars.QC-1, Al.
K. Marcinkowskiego 27a, tel. (+48) 600 83 68 46, www.
wartonadwarta.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (25-80zł). T6UVGSW
After hearing that Wiejskie Jadło had undergone a recent
refurb and drafted up a new menu, we were tempted back
to sample the results. We weren’t disappointed. It’s what
you expect from a Polish restaurant - a warm wooden
interior, bustling staff and big decent portions of hearty
grub. We enjoyed the żurek soup and after gut-busting
sausages, it’s good we didn’t have far to go - they’re
located just off the market square.QD-2, Stary Rynek 77
(entrance from ul. Franciszkańska), tel. (+48) 61 853 66
00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00. (17-53zł). T6UGBSW
Yeżyce Kuchnia offers the perfect opportunity to feel like
“part of the scene” and mingle with Poznan’s young, local
in-crowd. The cool common room/caff-style decor is
enough to keep people returning, but combine that with
an ever-changing top-draw menu and you’ll soon see
why this place is one of the most talked about venues in
town. Food-wise, it’s traditional Polish fare served up with
a bit of imagination, but the desserts and cakes make a
visit to Yeżyce Kuchnia worth it alone. During the summer
months, shade-totting hipsters sit in the tiny outdoor
garden playing board games and swinging on hammocks.
Qul. Szamarzewskiego 17 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 663 05
06. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 -
21:00. (15-40zł). T6GSW
A great place to kick-start your evening, there’s a distinct
pre-party feel to Czerwona Papryka - from the huge black
bull welcoming you out front to the lively buzz of chattering
patrons and Spanish music found inside. The menu allows
you the chance to relive those magical Mediterranean
moments with a choice selection of tapas and other
dishes to get you in the mood for the night ahead. As
you’d imagine, there’s a decent selection of Spanish wine
to work through as well, and the bubbly staff are only
too willing to keep your glass full.QD-2, Stary Rynek 49,
tel. (+48) 61 855 04 13, www.czerwonapapryka.com.
pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (15-60zł).
40 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Stary Rynek 77
(entrance from the Franciszkańska street)
tel. (+48) 618 53 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl
One of the great things about Poznań is the fact that
everything is within walking distance (or at most only
a couple tram stops away). Pad Thai is one of those
that requires a tram ticket (get off at ‘Poznań Plaza’),
but this luxurious restaurant inside the Thai Spa centre
makes the 3zł ticket seem meaningless. To break fast
between beauty treatments chose from their enticing
curries, fish dishes and sushi. A beautiful, relaxing
interior and friendly staff make this place a winner.Qul.
Drużbickiego 11 (Piątkowo), tel. (+48) 61 840 76 66,
www.padthairestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (30-50zł).
A little gem of a place if you fancy quick, simple and
tasty Thai favourites at lunch special prices, Fast Wok was
recently enlarged to accommodate more traffi c. Found
through an archway leading from ul. Ratajczaka, Fast Wok,
while having a Pole in the open kitchen, does seem to
have got the basics of this ethnic dish right, something
which isn’t a given in Poland. Nasi Goreng, red and green
curry and chicken in black bean sauce are a few of the
dishes on the concise menu.QB-2, ul. Ratajczaka 18
(Pasaż Apollo), tel. (+48) 508 52 89 89, www.fastwok.
pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (18-28zł).
Poznan’s veggie restaurant scene isn’t exactly buzzing
and this place will do little change that. Nondescript
and with next to nothing in the way of decorations,
Chwirot is more a canteen than a restaurant, offering
all the standards such as macaroni dishes, vegetable
stews and potato cutlets. The service is fast and friendly
and the ladies are more than happy to go through the
menu in more detail with customers which does partly
compensate for the lack of atmosphere. Perhaps a few
extra touches and decorations here and there would add
the something it’s missing and help transform it into
a decent little eatery.QC-3, ul. Rybaki 10, tel. (+48)
61 851 04 10. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. (11-17zł). 6NGS
A chain of budget vegetarian restaurants that are a Polish
success story. Often packed with students who know a
good deal when they see one, find a well prepared and
generous range of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free
dishes, including excellent pancakes and juices. Also at
ul. Taczaka 2 (B-3) and ul. Zeylanda 3 (E-3).QB-1, ul. 23
Lutego 11, tel. (+48) 61 852 52 41, www.greenway.pl.
Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (7-
19zł). T6GS
Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal
to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money,
you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the
word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an
indication that you won’t be wanting any change back.
This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and
expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does
their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed
for asking for your money back, or conveniently
disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be
careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for
the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we
advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when
handing back the bill and the payment.
Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid
in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more
than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner
may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity).
As such, we encourage you to reward good service
when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually
unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because
waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you
won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have
some change or small bills handy in order to leave your
server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change.
July - October 2015 41 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
uL.u8uZ8lCklLCC 11
(nLx1 1C ÞCZnAn ÞLAZA)
1LL. +48 61 84 07 666
On a street better known for boozy student chaos and greasy
fast food, Je Sus flips the script(ure) on ul. Taczaka by offering
healthy, strictly vegan eats. Make what you will of the subtle,
ironic iconography related to Poland’s favourite bearded
messiah, and the slightly slapdash interior of paint-splattered
stepladders, wiry plants and mismatching furniture, this
is hipster heaven and vegan nirvana. The menu changes
constantly to stay fresh and seasonal, and features non-dairy
plant-powered takes on pizza, breakfast omelettes, spring rolls
and more - most of it prepared by Ewelina, the owner, and all
of it divine. Like the menu, there are no strictly kept opening
hours, so god speed and good luck.QB-3, ul. Taczaka 22, tel.
(+48) 721 31 31 83. (10-20zł). T6GBSW
Poznan’s ethnic restaurant scene has certainly blossomed
over recent years and this is a great addition. Hidden down
one of Poznan’s little side streets, this cosy Turkish haunt
offers a wide variety of nutritious, healthy vegan and veggie
dishes such as curries, baked potatoes, burgers, soups
and salads. For those with a bit more of a sweet tooth,
you could do far worse than sample one of their desserts
(pancakes, waffl es, cheesecakes) or fruit cocktails. A sure-
fire winner.QC-2, ul. Jaskółcza 15, tel. (+48) 799 06 97
98. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (12-20zł).
“Adventurous” isn’t a word we often like to pair with
the word “dining” (after all, that’s how folks on reality
TV end up eating spiders), but this place proves to be
the exception. As its name implies, Dark Restaurant
is devoted to having diners eat their dinner in inky
blackness. We’re not talking mood lighting, either; the
cavernous room is so dark that the waiters actually wear
night vision goggles. The idea behind Dark Restaurant
is that by impairing your sense of sight, you enhance
your other senses, which makes for a more exciting
dining experience. It’s also a great excuse to eat with
your hands, because utensils are completely useless
without the benefit of eyesight. Each of the menu
themes - bizarre food, mood food, and a more standard
option - comes with a variety of courses, and you aren’t
told what you’re digging into until the meal is over. All
these factors add up to a messy and intriguing meal
that will have you guessing with every bite. Sure, some
of the foods are obvious, but basil ice cream? Oranges
with sea salt? Your tongue will undoubtedly be
tantalized. Fortunately, your meal ends with a chance
to talk with your waiter and the head chef, who delight
in making you guess what you ate.QD-2, ul. Garbary
48, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 57, www.darkrestaurant.pl.
Open 16:00 - 21:30, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. (80-120zł).
42 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Caf C f C f C f Caf a e B e B BB e Bord ord ord d rd ord or oooooo
inside where a topsy-turvy interior comes sprinkled with
chintz. Recently expanded to include a restaurant in an
adjacent room.QD-2, ul. Świętosławska 9, tel. (+48)
61 852 95 29, www.cocorico.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
As if you needed any more motivation to seek out this
outstanding cafe, famed for its seasonal garden, Bordo
now boasts a full menu of eats - from soups and salads
to mains like goose in plum sauce. A firm favourite of
locals and IYP editors alike, enjoy the serene and secluded
summer garden stuffed with flower pots, vines and a
fountain, while chilly days hold no less charm in the
interior, where the aroma of herbal tea hangs thick in the
air, and a middle-aged crowd whisper amid flickering
candles and bottles of wine.QD-1, ul. Żydowska 28/3,
tel. (+48) 61 851 00 81, www.cafebordo.com. Open
10:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
There are a slew of cosy little cafes dotted around the
back streets of Stary Rynek, and competition is indeed
tough; Lavenda slots right in there with the very best of
them though. A relaxed atmosphere and a great array
of hot drinks, wines and snacks (salads and pasta etc.)
make this the perfect place to share a lunchtime coffee
or to meet for an intimate first date.QD-2, ul. Wodna
3/4, tel. (+48) 61 852 49 95, www.lavenda-cafelunch.
pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00.
Hearing the word ‘Poland’ might not immediately conjure
connotations to coffee, cakes and cafe culture, but let’s
remember it was a Pole - Jerzy Kulczycki - who opened the
first coffeehouse in Vienna. Poznań has more than its fair
share of great cafes, though in this city the line between
cafe and bar can often be a blurry one, with clients shifting
from coffee to beer in the same place as day turns to
night. The venues we’ve listed here tend to favour caffeine,
sweets and ice cream over beer and booze, and when
most cafe/bar establishments are turning up the music for
their “til last guest” clientele, these are more often closing
their doors.
Set overlooking the inner courtyard of the City Hall building
next to the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus, Cafe Misja is a
cultural meeting place as much as anything. With a range
of artistic events this is a wonderful place to sit back in what
feels like someone’s lounge with fair trade coffee, cake and
ice cream during the day, or a beer in the evening. The very
friendly staff make you feel right at home and seem happy
to give you advice of how best to enjoy their city.QD-2,
ul. Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 531 58 41 87, www.cafemisja.
pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 -
22:00. T6UGBSW
Couples wallow under starlight in a backyard that’s
potted with plants and almost grotto-like in magic
(they’ve even won an award for the space, which is
closed in winter). There’s no doubt about it, it’s a garden
of memories. If the sun falls out of the sky seek shelter
July - October 2015 43 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Ministerstwo Browaru has earned itself quite a reputation
and is the perfect pub to find a healthy mixture of expats,
business types and tourists enjoying one of the best
selection of beers in Poz. But its sister venue - Minister CAFE
- has also earned a faithful following and it’s easy enough
to see why. A laid-back and homely interior awaits those
who venture in and their creative menu offers up an array
of sarnies, soups, home-made cakes and other delightful
puddings that will leave you watching your waistline.QB-2,
ul. Ratajczaka 34 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47, www.
ministerstwobrowaru.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 -
24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. GBW
Some of the best buildings on Poznań’s Old Market Square
are the old Merchant Houses and that’s exactly where you’ll
find Pod Pręgierzem. For years this was Post Offi ce Cafe, but a
recent transformation has seen it aim towards those looking to
grab a quick bite rather than a cup of coffee. The menu boasts
plenty of breakfast options (from ‘continental’ to ‘full English’)
and the sandwiches aren’t bad either. Soft music, cheery staff
and walls decked out in photos paying homage to some of
the city’s finest buildings make this a fine choice. There’s even
a kid’s play area downstairs which kept us entertained while
we were waiting for our soup.QC-2, Stary Rynek 25/29, tel.
(+48) 61 855 00 06, www.podpregierzem.pl. Open 09:00 -
21:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. T6BXSW
The owners of the popular Kawiarnia Nocna Kisielice bar
have opened an equally cool (if not cooler) café upstairs,
drawing the same artsy crowd during daylight hours when
they’re in need of coffee and sandwiches. The interior
features one wall covered in stray pieces of wood (more
intriguing than it sounds, we promise), the menu is a simple
array of salads, pastas and snacks like hummus, while the
true standout is their minimal beer selection, featuring
bottled beer made locally by Ministerstwo Browaru and
other local microbrews. A low-key winner.QB-3, ul.
Taczaka 20, tel. (+48) 509 82 54 45. Open 08:00 - 22:00,
Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. 6GBSW
Not the easiest place to find despite being only a stone’s
throw from the square, which makes its discovery (head
into what looks like a shop to find it tucked away at the
back) even more of a pleasant surprise. Clearly a labour of
love as reflected by the hundreds of paper birds hanging
from the ceiling which create a riot of colour set against
the mismatch of wooden furnishings, exposed brick and
copious shrubbery. Spread over a number of small rooms,
Zielona Weranda is one of our favourite lunch spots with a
tasty, well-prepared range of soups, salads, sandwiches and
snacks. The tea, coffee and cake options are so encyclopaedic,
the harder aspect of spending time here is deciding what to
have.QC-2, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 851 32 90,
www.werandafamily.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue,
Wed 10:00 - 23:00. T6UGBS
A prime location on the ground floor of Poznan’s
bustling Stary Browar shopping complex means that
this cafe/boulangerie is never short of customers
looking to take a break from their latest spending
spree. The interior is smart but informal, and the
friendly staff busy themselves serving up everything
from fresh coffees and teas to crepes, tarts, pastries and
fresh French bread. For those looking for something
a little more substantial there’s an excellent breakfast
selection, daily soups, and a range of lunches to line
your stomach before sampling one of their wines. Bon
appétit!QG-4, ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel.
(+48) 61 667 15 55. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 -
20:00. UGBSW
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed
in this guide, let the 1.1 million yearly unique visitors
to our website, poznan.inyourpocket.com, know
about it. Every venue on our website has a function for
comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical,
so spill it.
We dined here and it was one of the finest meals we
had had in a long time. It was presented beautifully and
the taste was out of this world. We had starters, mains,
desserts and 4 beers and it was £44. Back home that
standard of meal would set you back at least double
that. And the staff were very helpful and pleasant,
highly recommended.
Hayley from UK
Yes, visit this Belgian bar while in Poznan! It’s an
absolute must. Great selection and excellent barman.
We liked the environment, very chill. We’ll be back soon!
Melissa from UK
Gorgeous, worth a visit for sure.
Megan from Yorkshire
44 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Poznań bars are flexible - no matter what the offi cial
closing times are, most bars and pubs will stay open until
the last customer has stumbled out. Most night spots are
concentrated around the Old Town Square area, but also
check out ul. Nowowiejskiego (B-1) and ul. Taczaka (B-3) both
of whom draw students in droves. If you don’t see it listed
here, visit our website - poznan.inyourpocket.com - for
reviews of almost every place in town, and the opportunity
to leave your comments about all of them. Below are a few
suggestions depending on what you might be looking for:
The best cocktails in Poznań are found in Blow Up 50 50,
which is conveniently situated close to one of the most
exclusive danceterias in town - SQ. Look the part if you
want to be accepted into either. If you don’t want snooty,
you can easily run up your tab sipping choice monastic
ales at Kriek Belgium Pub & Cafe, while Piano Bar mixes
luxury drinks and atmosphere for a swanky well-rounded
With so many options, Poz’s Rynek can be
overwhelming, but without doubt the most popular
place is Brovaria, which regularly sees people queuing
for tables in order to enjoy the in-house brewed beers.
Of course it’s impossible not to mention Pacha here
- the legendary Ibiza club which has brought its
international cred and celebrity crowds to Poz; good
luck getting in. For the plebs, it’s the ever-popular
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa, of course.
Ministerstwo Browaru emphasises plenty of obscure
beers (including their own) for connoisseurs, while
Brovaria has excellent lagers brewed right on-site.
Falstart is a great local sports pub, or keep it more classy
at the Sheraton’s Someplace Else. Keep the night going
in Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa, a cheap 24-hour eatery on
the Rynek that will help you offset your hangover with
piles of white sausage and pickled herring; it’s also a
great place to meet the locals.
Another vote for Blow Up 50 50, the best destination for
seductive cocktails. If it’s entertainment you’re after check
out Blue Note Jazz Club, which attracts great international
performers to serenade your better half. Basilium does an
excellent job of combining cocktails with cosy spaces as
well, or make it a fine bottle of red in Casa De Vinos (see
Wine Bars, p.46).

Brave the dark basement of Kawiarnia Nocna
Kisielice - an experimental hangout that the locals
love for the alternative music and atmosphere, or
check out the plywood and graffiti art stylings of
Mrowisko. Ambitious hipsters should certainly
seek out seasonal shipping container riverside bar
KontenerART (p.46), and the artsy cultural collective
known as OFF Garbary (p.50). Craft beer is all the rage
in PL these days, and Poz has hopheads well-served
with Basilium, Chmielnik, Setka and Kriek.
PPPho Pho P to to by by Gre Gregor gorz B z Babi abicz. cz. Co Court urtesy esy of of Ci City ty of of offf Poz Poz Poz Poznnań nań.
July - October 2015 45 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
A smart and cosy little location found just off the Rynek,
and well-loved by the entire IYP team. Warm lighting and
decorations ranging from old gramophones to flattened
beer bottles suspended from the ceiling help create a laid-
back atmosphere, but the main reason for parking yourself
in one of the comfy chairs or propping yourself up an empty
wooden barrel is the vast selection of beer on offer. Whilst
there are a few on draught, it’s the rows and rows of bottles
on the shelves that will have you gawping and unsure quite
where to start. With over 150 brews, this is one of the best craft
beer bars in Poz. In addition to this, there’s a nice selection of
snacks.QD-2, ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open
12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. 6UGBW
Woah, if there’s one place that keeps leaving an impact it’s
the Blow Up. The bar is the final word in industrial chic, with
metal floors, exposed brickwork and ceilings that stretch
to the clouds. The artwork is mad, and deliberately messes
with your head, as do the cocktails, truly the work of a
scientific hand. As for the bar itself, that’s a multi-angled,
zinc plated masterpiece that has no rival, and features a
Davidoff Lounge where you can buy cigars. It’s not often
we attach the words unmissable to a venue, so take note
and visit.QG-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99
91, www.blowuphall5050.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00.
A vast multi-level jazz club whose spangly interior has
shades of 90s club tragedy written all over it. Don’t let
that discourage you, however, this is a legendary venue
that has hosted some of the biggest names in Polish
and international jazz. Do check their website for what’s
cooking first - this space has been known to be rented out
for teen hip-hop nights and other hooded-top twaddle,
and if there’s no concert scheduled then they aren’t open.
QA-1, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08, www.
bluenote.poznan.pl. Open 1 hour before event; check
website. EG
G No smoking N Credit cards not accepted
6 Animal friendly U Facilities for the disabled
E Live music X Smoking room available
W Wi-fi connection B Outside Seating
Over 100 Nightlife reviews online:
draught beers and bottles
46 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Brovaria feels an integral part of Poznań life, and it’s certainly
become established as the main expat haunt since the
demise of Dom Vikingow. Yet while it feels an ingrained
piece of Poznań one look at the design reveals a modern,
industrial space, one where steel and glass combine to
create a sharp looking area that looks as edgy now as when
it first opened. However, coming here to admire the interiors
would be missing the point; this place is all about beer,
namely the excellent house lagers that are brewed out back
in the copper vats. Here’s one of the best microbreweries in
Poland, quite possibly the best: enjoy it.QC-2, Stary Rynek
73-74 (Brovaria Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.
brovaria.pl. Open 10:00 - 01:00. GBW
Set inside the old malt house (Słowdownia) of the former
Brewery Huggerów which has now become the vast Stary
Browar mall, Browar Pub attracts a monied and grown-up
crowd you’re unlikely to see filling clubs around Poznań’s main
square. The arched brick ceilings add architectural interest,
though all eyes are typically focused on the dance floor.
Theme nights are popular here on weeknights, with weekends
devoted to hits from 70s through to the present day, which
might explain the classier crowd. Our only complaint is that
Browar’s location deep inside the mall can make it tough to
spot from outside, but follow the dolled up crowd up the
outside stairs on Półwiejska as it’s worth the effort.QC-3, ul.
Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61
859 65 70, www.slodownia.com. Open 22:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. YEGB
One of the best bars on ul. Ż ydowska, Chmielnik sports a smart
wood and stone interior, on-site brewing tanks and spot-on
selection of microbrews to pull in a trendy 20-something
crowd. The seasonal garden out back is a summer staple and
word is that from May it will be bigger than ever, as will the
entire local, as they kick up their game by opening a kitchen
on the premises. Already one of our favourite places for lazy
get-togethers that go late into the night, we can’t wait to
visit in the spring and see what they’ve done with the place.
QD-1, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. (+48) 790 33 39 46. Open
14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00. 6GBW
Formerly known as BSA Sports Pub, this bar is something
of a Poznań institution amongst sports fans and hardcore
boozers alike. Its recent makeover has seen a name change
and a lick of paint but little else appears to have been altered.
It’s a no-frills affair with framed shirts, old tennis rackets and
a shedload of TVs blasting out every sport from boxing to
NBA to footy from around the globe. Above the bar is a list of
the 100-some different shots on offer - including ‘King Kong’,
‘Highway to Hell’ and the stickily-named ‘Cumshot’ - to bring
on the afterglow. A welcome change from the soulless glam
and glitz sports bars that seem to be all the rage these days.
QC-3, ul. Długa 11, tel. (+48) 61 671 32 85. Open 16:00 -
24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. NGW
Thirty seconds from bustling Półwiejska Street, Casa
de Vinos wine bar serves as an ideal stop-off for those
who know they deserve a relaxing glass of wine (or
two) after a hard day of shopping and sightseeing. The
friendly and knowledgeable staff are happy enough
to talk you through the 300 plus bottles on display
before offering you a comfy seat in which to enjoy your
final choice. It’s small, it’s intimate and it makes for a
perfect little place to sample some of the finest wines
from around the globe. Keep your credit card at hand -
you’ll be needing it when it comes to ordering a bottle
or three to take back home.QC-3, ul. Krysiewicza 5,
tel. (+48) 61 815 28 26, www.casadevinos.pl. Open
10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. GW
One of Poznań’s most original spots, the seasonal
KontenerART occupies a stretch of grass along the
Warta River that makes finding the unusual venue
feel like a drink-worthy achievement. Head down
Ewangelicka (H-3) toward the Warta River and you
may hear the clamouring of KontenerART before you
see it. It’s worth the trouble - after all, where else can
you drink in a stack of shipping containers surrounded
by an artificial beach and “art” installations that stretch
the definition of the word? One container operates
as a stage, one as a bar, and the rest are filled with art
projects that are more confusing than creative. Deck
chairs and wooden pallets are the seating of choice at
this hipster oasis, where no one is without a Grolsch and
a pair of skinny jeans. Climb the stairs for a second-story
seat that offers a view of the river and the ideal perch
for people-watching. A welcome and unique summer
alternative to pubs and clubs in the Old Town.QI-4, ul.
Ewangelicka (on the Warta between Chrobrego and
Focha bridges), www.kontenerart.pl. Open May 1st
to August 31st only, 10:00 - 23:00. EGBW
July - October 2015 47 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Kawiarnia Nocna Kisielice (formerly just Kisielice) has
somehow always managed to divide opinion and its
refurb will continue to do just that. Gone are the knackered
old sofas, replaced instead by smart new chairs, a
predominantly dark decor and an extremely low bar which
might take the regulars a little while to get used to. The
K-Hole has always been one of the city’s more experimental
bars when it comes to music policy (think hardcore punk
to electronica to African tribal chanting) and if our recent
trip is anything to go by, little here has changed. Definitely
original and worth a look.QB-3, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. (+48)
509 82 54 45, www.kisielice.com. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 20:00 - 04:30. Closed Mon, Sun. BXW
If ever we were pushed to name a favourite bar in Poznań, this
place would be a first impulse. Setting it apart is a collection of
170 Belgian beers, admirably promoted by Sławek, a gregarious
giant whose principal aim is to spread the good gospel of
lager. Even better, they now also serve food, including the
only pulled pork sandwich in Poz. Permanently cast in shadow,
Kriek is a sure-fire winner, and a hefty bill is as expected as the
heavy head that follows. Highly recommended.QD-2, ul.
Wodna 23, tel. (+48) 508 26 75 70. Open 13:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 13:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. UGBW
One of our favourite haunts for Polish craft beers, find
AleBrowar brews like Black Hope and Rowing Jack on tap
alongside the establishment’s own Ministerstwo beers and
top-rated European names like Delirium Tremens. If we had
it our way all pubs would be run by folks as knowledgeable
as these fellows, who’ve boiled it down to wood benches
and great beer. If you’re up before it’s afternoon, you’ll
find the equally awesome Minister Cafe upstairs.QB-2,
ul. Ratajczaka 34, tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47, www.
ministerstwobrowaru.pl. Open 16:00 - 02:00. GBW
Known in local circles as ‘Mr. Whisky’(due to its slightly confusing
sign), this place has ‘hipster’ written all over it, from its graffi ti-
laden design to its shopping trolley full of second-hand books
and board games. And that’s before you even sample some of
the off-beat beers on offer. Cheap, cheerful and drawing a lively
mix of students and foreigners, this place has quickly made its
mark on the Poznań scene.QD-1, ul. Szewska 20A, tel. (+48)
690 22 59 42, www.mrowiskopoznan.pl. Open 16:00 - 01:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. GW
The perfect spot to take clients. A clean cream interior
punctuated by some well chosen local art. The mobile drinks
cabinet can be dispatched to your party if an emergency
surfaces, such as an inability to walk. Waiters are decked out
suitably and can handle any cocktail you should require.
QC-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall),
tel. (+48) 61 859 65 70, www.pianobar.poznan.pl. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. UEGBWY
Stylish and spacious pub
with a casual atmosphere.
A perfect place to watch
your favorite sport events,
have fun or simply enjoy
your friends’ company.
The best Tex-Mex menu in Poznan.
Delicious burgers & steaks
Original drinks and cocktails.
Sports events on large screen and LCD TVs.
2 Glasses are Better than 1 offer (every weekend)
SOMEPLACE ELSE (Sheraton Poznan Hotel)
ul. Bukowska 3/9, Poznan
phone 61 655 2000
48 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
The newspapered interior and nostalgic communist-
era concept here are exactly the same as their dozens of
locations all over the country (including a second in Poz
at ul. Wrocławska 8, C-2): dirt cheap booze and dirt cheap
grub like pickled herring and cold pork in jelly to soak
up the aforementioned booze. This place is packed at all
hours, though it’s best sampled during the later stages of
the evening when you’re guaranteed a right assortment of
characters who are happy to spill out their life story for the
price of a 4zł beer. Very ‘Polish’ and a welcome alternative
to some of the Rynek’s more expensive and snobby bars.
QC-1, Stary Rynek 85, tel. (+48) 791 85 95 55. Open
09:00 - 05:00, Fri 09:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun
10:00 - 05:00. UNGW
Decorated with chipped tankards, rusty bike wheels and
jumble sale furniture that looks like it’s just climbed out
of a nearby skip, Setka is as rough and ready a drinking
experience as you could hope for in Poznań. With 20
draughts and an additional 350 bottled beers to work your
way through (including a damn fine selection of IPAs), it’s
always good fun, even brilliant sometimes. Tuesday is quiz
night (starts at 20:00) and every Sunday at 20:30 is a folk
jam session, so feel free to bring your concertina, mandolin,
or folk instrument of choice if you want to join in.QC-2, ul.
Św. Marcin 8, tel. (+48) 604 77 75 81. Open 15:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. EXWY
SPE is a natural born winner - few places are better geared to
meet foreign demands, and while the prices are undoubtedly
steep (do you expect anything else from the Sheraton?), it’s
a place where foreigners and locals mix with seamless ease,
chatting about travels while sports beam down from their 9
TVs. American in spirit, you’ll find Route 66 extras mingled
with rock pics, as well as more whimsical touches such as
a car bonnet bursting from the wall. Taking centre stage is
a circular bar, the perfect base to chat to staff while they
fix earthquake cocktails and velvet smooth Guinness.QE-3,
ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel), tel. (+48) 61
655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl. Open 17:00 -
01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. UGBWY
What with Stary Rynek being most people’s first port of
call, it’s always good to have a bit of variety. Whiskey in
the Jar ticks the box for ‘good-old-fashioned rock ‘n’ roll
bar,’ but this isn’t your typical grubby rock pub - rather a
classy joint serving steaks and burgers and killer cocktails
guaranteed to leave your head spinning (Don’t believe us?
See how many of their Jack Daniel’s Whisky Jars you can
work your way through in one sitting). The stage hosts live
bands Wed - Fri from 21:00, with DJs keeping the trendy
punters entertained on Saturday nights with the likes of
Metallica, Jimi Hendrix and The Clash.QC-2, Stary Rynek
56, tel. (+48) 690 28 88 98, www.whiskeyinthejar.pl.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. 6UEGBW
Wrocławska 5 street
entrance from the street Kozia
Phone: +48 785 559 428
+48 531 393 636
E-mail: info@deep-gogo.pl
July - October 2015 49 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Though most ‘rock bars’ in this town are head-banging
student dives, Atmosphera is a smartly designed space for
mixed drinks and live music, with plenty of instruments
incorporated into the design - the bar itself is even made
from flight cases for extra effect. What helps Atmosfera
stand out from other Rynek pubs is the fact it’s easy to
mingle, so you can get chatting to that tasty leather-clad
blonde on the other side of the room without too much
hassle, and the fun only picks up the longer the night
goes on: note that they host after parties here on Saturday
starting at 05:00 in the morning, and don’t make ‘last call’
until 11:00 Sunday (just in time for ‘drunch,’ that is, drunken
brunch).QC-2, Stary Rynek 67, www.atmosfera-klub.
pl. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Sat 18:00 - 11:00. Closed Sun.
Set down a shadowy courtyard basement the newly
expanded Cuba Libre is a bouncy Latin venue replete with
whitewashed walls, pics of Che and wall space dedicated
to an assortment of Cuban goodies. This place goes for
detail, so much so that drinkers can even take a seat in one
of those clapped-out vintage bangers you see pootling
round the streets of Havana. The Fiesta Latino nights on
Friday and Disco Latino nights on Saturday prove seriously
popular, though if you’ve got two left feet then consider
brushing up on your dance jiggles at one of their Monday
salsa classes.QC-2, ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 61 855
23 44, www.cuba-libre.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue
21:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. EXW
A local institution. Upstairs is a noisy wood-furnished bar,
downstairs a hot labyrinthine club. Music is usually no more
challenging than chart hits, though they do occasionally
draw reputable DJ’s and a crowd hell-bent on tipping lots
of booze down their gobholes.QC-2, ul. Jaskółcza 13, tel.
(+48) 690 06 50 19. Open 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Wed, Sun. BXW
ul. Wroclawska 21
tel. 061 855 23 44
Everything in Pacha will look out-of-this-world once your retinas
have been fried by laserbeams.
The popular concept of the ‘pub crawl’ hasn’t quite
taken off locally in PL. Generally speaking, Poles prefer
to find themselves a decent bar, park their butt for the
night and let the alcohol do the rest. Not a bad idea, but
don’t let yourself fall too far into that trap when visiting
Poznań - this city has made a name for itself when it
comes to nightlife, and is simply too full of fine boozers
to limit yourself to just a few. As an alternative to the
almost boundless drinking opportunities on the main
square, more adventurous visitors may want to check
out Ulica Taczaka (A/B-3), where you can approach local
alcohol culture in much the same manner as you might
sightseeing - namely by attempting to absorb as much
of it as you can as effi ciently as possible in the short time
that you’re here. Located just five minutes from the market
square, Taczaka is known as the ‘high street’ of Poznań’s
down-at-heel ‘student ghetto,’ and is densely packed
with divey proto-Polish cellar pubs, the likes of which it’s
hardly worth the energy to differentiate between here -
all feature the same trusty formula for good times: cheap
beer, familiar music, unbashful boozed-up students, and
foreign boys practicing pigeon Polish on the local birds.
It’s certainly not for everyone, but if that sounds like
your society, start at Taczaka’s top end (off ul. Ratajczaka,
B-3) and get down on all fours for a crawl down one of
Poznań’s most prodigious nightlife expressways.
50 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Credit crunch you say? Not in Poznań, people. While
the rest of the world staggers around like a shot pig the
denizens of Poznań are living the high life in places like
Czekolada. To call this place sexy would be a disservice, this
is the final word in design drinking and the sort of cocktail
spot/lounge club the city deserves. Huge chandeliers, shiny
surfaces and black finishes lend a real svelte look to this
spot, and you’d be a fool to turn up looking like anything
less than a celebrity.QC-2, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48)
665 55 08 91, www.klubczekolada.pl. Open 22:00 -
05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. XW
Pacha? As in, the world’s most famous clubbing franchise
Pacha? In Poznań? We’re as shocked as you, but yep, those
cherries are real, and this is the only Pacha in Central Europe
- validating Poznań’s growing international rep as a prime
party city. Decked out in plush design and pumping out
house music for the masses, Pacha is a divorcee’s paradise
and one which is attracting big crowds looking to dance
away those working-week blues. Will its reputation be
enough to pull in the punters from Warsaw, Wrocław and
Berlin? Time will tell...QC-2, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel.
(+48) 519 30 02 60, www.pachapoznan.com. Open Thu-
Sat only 22:00 - 05:00. XW
Dance with the fittest and the hippest in SQ, by far the most
envied dance space in town. Silly haircuts and expensive
wardrobes abound here, and they’re here for the music not
the design - DJs arrive from all across Poland to play here,
sometimes even further. The interior isn’t all that, but the
nights are legend, and you’ll find no better place to puff
the chest out and behave like a big time Bertie.QC-3, ul.
Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 663 78 65 47, www.sqklub.pl.
Open 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. EX
Head through the door, make your way down the steps and
prepare to feast your eyes on some of the city’s top talent.
Unlike some clubs of its ilk, Deep Go Go caters for both stag
and hen parties, with a number of set-price options on offer
depending on both budget and number of guests. The
modern interiors look as good as the ladies, and as we’ve
learned first-hand, anyone searching for an evening of spicy
adult entertainment will not leave the club disappointed;
check the website for more details and enjoy.QC-2, ul.
Wrocławska 5 (entrance from ul. Kozia), tel. (+48) 531 39
36 36, www.deep-gogo.pl. Open 20:00 - 05:00. XW
More reviews online:
Located around the courtyard of a former furniture
warehouse, OFF Garbary is a culture collective boasting
1600m of space that has been divvied amongst
Poznań’s creatives and devoted to art, culture and
cuisine. On hand are shops, galleries, cafes, food trucks,
bars and even a hairdresser, and the area is host to
frequent workshops, concerts and other events (find
specifics at their FB page: /garbaryoff). While during
the day there’s almost a family vibe, after dark this is
one of the most happening places in town - a huge
beer garden with legendary weekend DJ parties.
Opening hours vary, but most places are open from
12:00, with the bars opening later and staying open all
night. To find it look for the umbrellas overhead.
During its short tenure since opening, LAS has
established itself as Poz’s best live music venue by far,
with gigs ranging from Colombian free jazz to German
electronica to French hardcore. With a spit and sawdust
warehouse feel, the bar staff will happily ply you with
Czech beer as you get down and dirty with the locals.
Perhaps the best thing to come out of Poznań since
a pint of Lech Pils, check their FB page to see what’s
on.QD-1, ul. Małe Garbary 7a, tel. (+48) 535 79 22
22. Open during concerts only and Fri, Sat 20:00 -
05:00. NG
Featuring a huge garden and outdoor bar, inside this
OFF Garbary dive bar it’s all knackered sofas, chandeliers
and a wall of VHS videos. While a more relaxed vibe
prevails during the week, come the weekend the music
gets pumped up and the dance floor fills out with
plenty of student totty and sexy locals ready to shake
off the hang-ups of the working week. One minute
it’s a quiet pint at the bar discussing the first Doors
album, the next you’re up, unbuckled and barefooted,
forgetting where you’ve left your wallet. Poznań
doesn’t get more real and dirty than this.QD-1, ul.
Małe Garbary 7a, tel. (+48) 786 17 50 66. Open 14:00
- 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue. BXW
Is that Twoja Stara?
Poznań Sightseeing
Crowded with cobbled streets, soaring steeples and historical
monuments, Poznań’s Old Town is a collage of architectural styles
and historical monuments, waiting to be explored…
Pho ho ho hoto by yyyyyy Łuk ukasz asz sz z sz Wy Wy Wy Wy Wypió ió pió pióó pió pi r. rr. r. Cou ou ou Co Co ou C rte r sy y of of of Cit Cit Cittty o y y o y o yyy y f Poznań.
July - October 2015 53 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Cathedral on Ostrów Tumski (p.63) with its twin towers
and surrounding chapels. This site is connected not only
with the founding of the city of Poznań, but with the very
birth of the Polish nation - a story which is now told in
all its glory at the outstanding Porta Posnania (p.64).
This modern complex in Sródka is now the mandatory
starting point for exploring Ostrów Tumski - Poznań’s
glorious ‘Cathedral Island.’ Once you’ve finished strolling
the Old Town, make sure you have the better part of a day
to enjoy the medieval ambience and relative tranquility
of Ostrów Tumski.
Poznań also boasts some glorious parks and green spaces.
Lake Malta (p.76), just east of the centre is one of the
most unique urban leisure areas in the country, and offers
loads of family activities for all seasons, including skiing,
roller-coasters, and the New Zoo. Meanwhile, just north
of the Old Town, Citadel Park’s 89 hectares of public
greenery are stuffed with interesting monuments, and
even two museums focussed on the city’s military history
If you’re in the area for longer, you might also consider the
comfortable day trip out to Gniezno (p.70) - Poland’s first
capital. No matter how long your stay, you’ll find plenty in
Poznań to keep your interest. Use our Sightseeing section
to explore it all and enjoy one of Poland’s most ancient and
exciting cities.
With a deep and typically complex history, Poznań is rife
with historical monuments and has much to offer those
who enjoy outstanding architecture and diverse cultural
attractions. While part of the beauty of Poznań lies in
aimlessly roaming the streets and alleys, making chance
findings from one turn to the next, there are a number
of must-see sights whose discovery should not be left to
Your natural start point should be the Old Town, and its
main square, the glorious Stary Rynek (p.54). Taking
centre stage is the Old Town Hall (p.57), once renowned
as the most beautiful building north of the Alps. Today it
is home to the Historical Museum of Poznań (p.57) as well
as a pair of mechanical goats who emerge at noon to the
delight of the sightseers gathered below. Of course there’s
more to the Rynek than just the Town Hall, and visitors
with plenty of time will enjoy investigating the other
museums that line the perimeter of the square, including
the charming Musical Instruments Museum (p.58), the
brutal Wielkopolska Military Museum (p.60), and the
Wielkopolska Uprising Museum (p.68) - chronicling the
1918 Uprising which culminated in Poznań switching from
German to Polish hands.
Poznań also boasts two castles. First up is the Royal Castle
(p.58), located just west of the Rynek, which was the seat
of the first Polish kings; neglected for decades, the castle
is currently being returned to its pride of place and will
be open to the public in summer of 2015. Further west
is the Imperial Castle (p.69), built as the residence of
Prussian ruler Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1910. Today the chambers
and cellars of this fearsome complex house numerous
restaurants and bars, as well as the 1956 Uprising
Museum (p.69).
To avoid churches in Poznań would take a serious case
of river blindness. The gem of the Old Town is the Lesser
Basilica of St. Stanislaus (p.56), which boasts an interior
by a veritable who’s who of Roman Baroque artists, as
well as a flamboyant pink facade. The most important
place of worship in Poznań, however, is the Poznań
Essential Poznań
The Old Town Square Photo by Artur Zawisza. Courtesy of City of Poznań.
Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus
Photo by Zbigniew Ratajczak; courtesy of City of Poznań
54 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
If an authoritative print guide, website and iPhone app
simply aren’t enough, and you need someone to literally
take you by the hand (hey, we kid), there are plenty of tour
companies to choose from in Poznań and we list the best
of them here.
Excellent local guides offering tours in English, German,
Polish, Italian, Russian, French and Spanish to attractions
throughout Poznań and beyond (the Piast Route). During
Poland’s EU presidency, City Guides was chosen to show
delegates of the European Commission around the city -
solid credentials indeed. Walking tours vary in length with
prices depending on length of tour and language required,
and bike tours are also available by prior arrangement.Qtel.
(+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityguide-poznan.com.pl.
City guides offering tours of Poznań and the surrounding
area. Languages spoken include German, English, Russian,
Ukrainian, Spanish. Please call in advance to book a tour.
Qtel. (+48) 601 87 16 61, www.kultour.pl.
Tour guide services provided by the city’s Tourist
Information Centre, available in English, German, French,
Spanish, Italian, Russian, Ukrainian and Czech. Call at least
2 days in advance to book a guide or organise a tour.Qtel.
(+48) 61 852 61 56, www.cim.poznan.pl. 160zł/hour,
210zł/2 hours, 285zł/3 hours, 370zł/5 hours.
VisitPoznan offers a wide variety of traditional and
alternative-themed walking tours for groups and
individuals. Regular Old Town tours (20zł) in English leave
from Góra Przemysła (C-2, near the Royal Castle) Thu-Sat at
15:00 (from October on Thu and Sat only at 15:00); other
languages and tours by prior arrangement, with prices
below.Qtel. (+48) 663 03 62 95, www.visitpoznan.
info. For groups 1-6 people 190zł/2hrs, 250zł/3hrs,
340zł/5hrs; prices negotiable for larger groups.
The Old Town Square (Stary Rynek) was the centre
of old Poznań, and to this day is rich in historic
architecture, museums and restaurants. Around 60
per cent of the Old Town was flattened during WWII,
though most of the houses were meticulously rebuilt
in the 1950s following Baroque and Renaissance
styles. Aside from the two concrete carbuncles planted
needlessly in the middle, the town square remains one
of the most picturesque in Central Europe. Behind the
Town Hall lies the City Scales building that once housed
the hardware for weighing merchandise on its way to
the market.
As you explore the market square, keep your eyes
peeled for several interesting buildings rimming the
Stary Rynek 43 - Poznań’s oldest pharmacy, Under the
White Eagle has been operating here since 1564.
Stary Rynek 48 - Originally built in the 12th century
the house boasts the oldest gothic cellars in the city.
During the 16th century it was the residence of town
mayor Kacper Goski. Author of Plague in the Air, Goski
also dabbled in astrology. His unlikely, but ultimately
accurate, prediction of the Turkish defeat at the Battle
of Lepanto immortalised him across Europe.
Stary Rynek 50 - Worth noting for its gothic façade
and the small portico over the doorway. During a
bawdy drinking bout King August II of Saxony tumbled
out of the window; the roof broke his fall and saved his
life. Nearby a tablet marks the level that floodwaters
reached in 1736.
Stary Rynek 52 - Once owned by Mikołaj Ridt, the
trader was apparently turned into a werewolf after a
foul-mouthed outburst directed at a neighbouring
convent. Following war damage the house was rebuilt
in 1945 in Renaissance style.QC/D-1/2.
© gekaskr / Dollar Photo Club
Visit Poznań
20 PLN
Thursday to Sunday
at 3:00 pm
at Góra Przemysła Street
tel. +48 663 036 295
July - October 2015 55 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
A walk around the castle grounds is a must, especially
the rose garden out back. It’s here one finds the Katyń
monument, a 6.5 metre bronze effort permanently
festooned with flowers and candles. Unveiled on
September 17, 1999 - the 60th anniversary of the Soviet
invasion - this hefty memorial commemorates the 22,000
Polish offi cers massacred by Beria’s NKVD in 1940.QA-1,
Near the corner of ul. Fredry and Al. Niepodległości (The
Imperial Castle Garden).
The bronze statue of a
man with a bicycle that
you may find yourself
colliding with is that
of Stary Marych (Old
Marych), one of Poznań’s
most beloved citizens.
A fictional character
who came to symbolise
the typical Poznanian,
the grumpy but decent
Stary Marych was the
creation of Juliusz Kubel,
and featured heavily on
Polish radio, all the time
speaking in his particular and highly amusing Poznań
dialect. Sculpted by Robert Sobociński, the photogenic
codger has stood since 2001.QC-3, Corner of ul.
Półwiejska and ul. Strzelecka.
The Greek goddess Hygieia can be seen sitting serenely
upon this water well on Plac Wolności. The story begins
in 1841 when Edward Raczyński constructed the city
waterworks, choosing to place a well, decorated with
intricate reliefs, between Marcinkowskiego and Lutego
streets. In 1908 the well was moved down to ul. Podgórna,
but not before Albert Wolf further embellished it with the
goddess of good health, cleanliness and hygiene. The well
found its current place in 1971.QC-2, Pl. Wolności.
This feisty fellow mounted on horseback commemorates
the 15th Poznań Lancers Regiment, which fought against
the Bolsheviks in 1920 and with the Poznań Army in 1939.
The original was created by Mieczysław Lubelski and Adam
Ballenstaedt and unveiled in 1927, but it was destroyed by
the Nazis during World War II. The version that exists today was
installed in 1982 and created by Józef Murlewski and Benedykt
Kasznia and is the site of military ceremonies and the annual
Poznań Lancers Day event (April 17-19).QC-2, ul. Ludgardy.
The work of Gdańsk artist Mariusz Kulpa, this large
installation dedicated to the wartime Polish Underground
State and Home Army was unveiled in September 2007
and consists of numerous tablets commemorating both
individuals and organisations, as well as six stone eagles
seemingly suspended in mid-air, which represent Poland’s
(seemingly paradoxical) flight and fight for independence.
It’s truly a stunning work, and even more so in the evening
when illuminated by the dim flicker of candles placed
in tribute.QA-1, Between ul. Wieniawskiego and Al.
Niepodległości (Wieniawski Park).
QB-2, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 851 96 45,
www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun.
QE-4, ul. Dworcowa 2 (Main Train Station), tel. (+48)
61 633 10 16, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 08:00 -
21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Maps and guides in Polish, English and German.
Assistance in those languages plus French, Spanish,
Italian and Portuguese.QC-2, Stary Rynek 59/60, tel.
(+48) 61 852 61 56, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open 10:00
- 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. From Oct. 16 10:00 -
18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Qul. Bukowska 285 (Poznań Ławica Airport,
Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 849 21 40, www.cim.
poznan.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
© City of Poznań
56 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Poland’s first bishopric was established in Poznań way
back in 968AD, meaning the city is home to the oldest
Christian places of worship in this extremely devout
country. Poznań Cathedral was Poland’s first, and you
can read more about it and other churches in that district
in our Ostrów Tumski section on page 62; here we list
churches in the city centre only - all of which are still
active to varying degrees, so please be respectful and try
not to visit during services.
Built from 1674-1728, there’s seemingly not much to
church just off the market square. Hidden behind the
bland exterior, however, is an absolute explosion of
baroque over-indulgence, with colourful carved wood,
stucco and paintings by local monk Adam Swach. His
brother, Antoni, designed the high altar and ornamented
stalls, which literally jump out at you in their bright
flamboyance. It’s a spectacle worth seeing, but visitors
also flock to this church to see the Marian shrine, which
has housed a famous picture of the Miracle-Working Virgin
Mary, also known as the Lady of Poznań, for 300 years.
QC-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 852 36 37,
www.poznan.franciszkanie.pl. Open 07:00 - 18:45. No
visiting during mass please.
One of Poznań’s most impressive historic monuments,
the The Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus, which it became
in October 2010, was created as a Jesuit temple in the
17th century. It boasts an interior by a veritable who’s
who of Roman Baroque artists, with some fine period
ornamentation found in the chapels of the Holy Cross
(which features a 16th-century crucifix), and the Virgin
Mary (which has a precious copy of the painting of The
Mother of God of Incessant Help). The Basilica hosts organ
concerts played on an instrument dating from 1876 on
Saturdays at 12:15.QC/D-2, ul. Gołębia 1, tel. (+48) 61
852 69 50. Open 10:00 - 18:30. No visiting during mass
This small, uniquely-shaped Gothic building was
constructed in the early 15th century and is notable for
its adjacent wooden belfry and Art Nouveau murals.
The high altar features a Late Gothic relief of the
assumption of the Holy Virgin Mary and the other altars
are manneristic, dating from around 1630. Since 1923 it
has held the Crypt of Eminent Citizens of Wielkopolska,
the resting place of Jozef Wybicki, who wrote the words
of the Polish national anthem, and the urn containing
General Jan Henryk Dąbrowski’s heart. The church also
contains the sarcophagus of Karol Marcinkowski, the
famous doctor and social activist.QG-2, ul. Wzgórze
Św. Wojciecha 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 69 85, www.
swietywojciech.archpoznan.pl. Open before mass and
by prior arrangement.
After being annexed by Nazi Germany in 1939,
Poznań was incorporated into the Third Reich and
underwent aggressive Germanisation, with over
100,000 civilians expelled from the city and replaced
with Volksdeutch settlers from the Baltic States and
other regions. Of those ‘exiled’ many actually died
in mass executions conducted in 1940 in the area
surrounding Lake Rusałka (see this issue’s feature
starting on page 6). It was also in Poznań in 1943 that
Himmler declared Nazi intentions to exterminate
Jewish life, and today little survives of Poznań’s
Jewish heritage (p.67), with the early 19th century
graveyard on ul. Głogowska (E-4) destroyed by the
Nazis, before being incorporated into the Poznań
International Trade Fair complex (p.90) by communist
authorities after the war.
Under occupation, Poznań’s Imperial Castle (p.59)
was remodelled as a residence for Nazi Governor
Arthur Greiser by infamous Reich architect Albert
Speer. Gestapo HQ was located in Dom Żołnierza
(ul. Niezłomnych 1), which became an interrogation
centre with thousands of Poles tortured in the
basement. It was stormed by the Red Army in
February 1945 and fiercely defended by the SS,
who ultimately opted for mass suicide over capture.
Completely battered by this siege, the only original
remnant of the building is its tower, spared the
brunt of Soviet aggression so it could be used as a
reference point by artillery units. Prisoners processed
through Dom Żołnierza usually ended up in the
(still functioning) prison on ul. Młynska (B-1), or the
notorious Fort VII west of the Old Town. The first Nazi
concentration camp established on Polish soil, this
19th century fort today serves as the Wielkopolska
Martyrs Museum (p.8), and its sombre subterranean
chambers are filled with relics recovered from the site
– photographs, cutlery, wallets and rosaries. Outside,
the ‘Death Wall’ commemorates the thousands shot
by firing squad.
The Soviet siege of Poznań resulted in 90% total
destruction of the city’s Old Town, and a few images
of the city in ruins can be viewed in the Historical
Museum of Poznań inside the Town Hall (p.57).
Another area defended to the last man was the fortress
in Citadel Park just north of the Old Town, which today
houses two military museums - the Poznań Army
Museum and the Museum of Armaments (p.66).
In addition to several war monuments, Citadel Park
also hosts a British military cemetery (p.65), which
is the resting place of Allied airmen shot down over
Poland during WWII and also several of those captured
during “The Great Escape” - the famous POW escape
story popularised by the Hollywood movie with Steve
July - October 2015 57 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
See Ostrów Tumski, p.63.QI-2, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel.
(+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl. Open
10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission 8/5zł, family ticket 12zł. Y
Curious to see an Egyptian mummy named Hat? Then step
right in. Poznań’s Archaelogy Museum contains a collection
of 42,000 rare and mystifying objects that chart life in Ancient
Egypt and prehistoric Poland. The first part of the museum
takes you through the earliest settlements in the region, with
life-sized figures as well as miniature dioramas depicting
life from the Stone Age to the Iron Age. It’s here you’ll find
everything from flints and urns to models of hairy men
holding aloft dead rabbits. The other permanent exhibit,
‘Death and Life in Ancient Egypt,’ features 120 rare pieces - of
note are the granite obelisk of Rameses II that stands in the
courtyard outside, and the granite statue of the lion-headed
god Sachmet. The section on death presents colourful
coffi ns, guides to the afterlife titled ‘Book Of What Is On The
Other Side’ and the mummified remains of Hat, a boy named
Padiseb and sacred animals, including two cats, a falcon
and a crocodile.QD-2, ul. Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), tel.
(+48) 61 852 82 51, www.muzarp.poznan.pl. Open 10:00
- 17:00; Fri, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
From September 09:00 - 16:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun
12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, family ticket
20zł. Sat free. Guided tours by prior arrangement 70zł.
Free audio guides avaliable in English. YU
The show-stealing Town Hall proves a fitting venue for a
museum of this stature. The gothic cellars - originally the
municipal prison - hold exhibits dating back to the earliest
times of settlement in the 10th century. On the ground
floor, rooms built in the 16th century hold exhibits covering
the city’s urban and economic development during that
time. The Renaissance Hall, Royal Hall and Court Hall on the
first floor hold the most valuable documents and artefacts,
and the opulent vaulted ceilings - depicting griffi ns, lions
and eagles - are worth the photography surcharge alone.
Exhibits include a 13th century crosier from Limoges, a
table clock with the Poznań coat of arms from 1575 and a
globe from 1688 - resist the temptation to give it a spin lest
you wish to incur the wrath of hawkish curators. Much of
the second floor is dedicated to the 19th century when the
city was under Prussian rule, and features everyday objects
and portraits of prominent citizens. The final part of the
museum depicts the history of 20th century Poznań, and
exhibits include the disturbing photograph of a swastika
fluttering from the Town Hall.QC-2, Stary Rynek 1, tel.
(+48) 61 856 81 93, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00,
Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
From September 16 open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00;
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free. YN
First erected in the early
14th century, Poznań’s glo-
rious Town Hall (Ratusz) re-
ally flowered in mid-1500s
when Italian architect
Giovanni Quadro of Luga-
no added the Renaissance
loggia, attic, and classical
tower, earning the struc-
ture acclaim as ‘the most
beautiful building north of
the Alps.’ Unfortunately a
catalogue of historic disas-
ters - including a 1675 fire, 1725 hurricane and WWII
bomb damage - have resulted in the sad reality that
today little of the original structure actually remains,
though it has been faithfully rebuilt to retain its status
as the city’s showpiece.
Today the Old Town Hall houses the Historical Museum
of Poznań, whose collection encompasses exhibits
from the 10th century till the present day. The biggest
draw is the Great Entrance Hall with its elaborately
decorated vault, supported by two huge pillars. The
tableaux are inspired by the bible, astrology and figures
from mythology. Directly outside the Town Hall is the
original whipping post, dating from 1535, with a recently
repaired figure of Poz’s executioner standing on top.
Crowds gather outside the Town Hall each day to
witness two mechanical billy goats emerge from a
door above the clock at precisely 12:00 and proceed to
butt heads twelve times. Simultaneously, a trumpeter
plays the town’s traditional bugle call from a balcony.
The bugle call (hejnał) dates back at least to the 15th
century, and the goats have been ramming heads
1551. Replaced and restored over the years, the present
pair have been bludgeoning each other since 1954. Of
course there’s a half-baked legend to go along with
them: When the clock was completed in 1511, the
governor of the Poznań province was invited for the
unveiling. The hapless cook preparing the celebratory
feast burnt the venison, so he went out and managed
to steal a pair of goats to serve instead. Alas, the goats
escaped and traipsed up to the top of City Hall, where
the governor saw them butting heads and decreed
they be added to the clock. The rest, as they say, is
history - much like the cook, who was likely tied to the
whipping post and given a bloody good thrashing.
QC-2, Stary Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 61 856 81 93, www.
mnp.art.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From September 16
open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00
- 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 7/1-5zł, Sat free. Y
58 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Every European city worth its salt has a castle, and
Poznań actually has two. Indeed, the 20th century
‘Zamek’ west of the Old Town is neither Poznań’s oldest,
nor most important castle. Wander just one block west
of the market square and you’ll find yourself at the foot
of Góra Przemysła, crowned by Poznań’s former Royal
Castle, which is currently being rebuilt by the city to
reflect its former glory.
Once the pride of Poznań, the original construction
was begun approximately 1249 by Przemysł I - Duke
of the Piast dynasty who had chosen Poz as his capital.
Work on the royal residence was continued by his son,
and by the time Kazimierz the Great (a prince at the
time) moved in in the early 14th century, Poznań’s
Royal Castle was the largest non-ecclesiastical building
in Poland. Its fortunes took a serious turn for the worse
in early 18th century when it was sacked several times
in quick succession by the Swedes, the Russians, and
then disgruntled nobles. Governor General Kazimierz
Raczyński restored the medieval buildings and created
a state archive here in 1783 - a function it would serve
until WWII. During the Siege of 1945, the castle had
the misfortune of being in the line of fire with the Nazi
stronghold on Citadel Hill and that was that.
In 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s
contribution to the hill, which today houses the
Applied Arts Museum (currently closed for
renovation). Until recently, the Castle’s rich historical
value as the seat of early Polish royalty, numerous royal
births, weddings and treaty signings seems to have
been undervalued, but that’s in the past now. In 2002 a
committee for rebuilding the Castle was founded and
work began in December 2010 on the total restoration
of Poznań’s Royal Castle. To date, most of the exterior
work has been completed, including the castle tower,
while the interiors should finally open to the public in
2016.QC-1/2, Góra Przemysła.
Winner of the Nobel Prize in 1905, and once one of
the world’s most popular authors, Sienkiewicz is best
known internationally as the author of Quo Vadis, a
birth-of-Christianity epic that has been translated into
50 languages. This museum dedicated to his legacy
is located in a house that once belonged the Italian
architect Jean Baptiste Quadro (that’s his bust you can
see outside), and the collection is the life work of Ignacy
Moś, who started collecting Sienkiewicz memorabilia
after paying the ransom to free Sienkiewicz’s only son
from the Gestapo. The exhibition includes the author’s
Lennon-style specs, post-mortem facial and hand casts,
correspondences and a collection of his novels including
an English version of Quo Vadis dating from 1899. The
opulent rooms are crowded with chandeliers, portraits
and period furniture, his writing desk, and pictures of
our hero posing with his series of wives. Though recently
fully renovated and featuring more of the requisite
multimedia trappings of modern museums, this special
interest exhibit remains a domain that should probably
be reserved for literary scholars and Sienkiewicz’s
extended family. If that’s you, you’ll be delighted to
discover that an audioguide is now available in English
and German.QD-2, Stary Rynek 84, tel. (+48) 61 852
89 71, www.bracz.edu.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 4/2zł, Sat
free. Audioguide 25zł. N
The only Polish museum of professional and folk
instruments, with over 2000 items from Poland and around
the world. Combining music, history and ethnography,
it’s more interesting than it sounds. Three floors of
exhibits include lutes dating back to the 15th century, a
collection of 160 pianos illustrating the development of
the instrument over the centuries, and a room of relics
from the life of Frederic Chopin. Rounding off the exhibit
is a collection of mechanical instruments: music boxes,
barrel organs, juke boxes, player pianos and gramophones.
QD-2, Stary Rynek 45-47, tel. (+48) 61 852 08 57, www.
mnp.art.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From September 16 open
09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/1-
5zł, Sat free. YN
© stavrida / Dollar Photo Club
July - October 2015 59 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
More a palace than a ‘castle,’ work began on Poznań’s
fearsome ‘Zamek’ in 1905 to serve as the provincial
residence of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Designed in the neo-
Romanesque style by Franz Schwechten, the west
wing held Wilhelm’s living quarters, the east wing
his immaculate throne room, with the northern
part of the complex consisting of service rooms and
beautiful gardens based on the Alhambra’s Courtyard
of the Lions. The Kaiser got the keys in 1910 but didn’t
stay long before WWI and the following Wielkopolska
Uprising resulted in a Polish Poznań once again.
Between the wars the Zamek became the seat of
Poznań University, before the Third Reich swooped in
and Albert Speer, Hitler’s pet architect, transformed
the tower chapel into the Fuehrer’s offi ce, and the
second floor into the residence of Arthur Greiser
(Nazi governor of the district). The castle was badly
damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was
even a post-war campaign to have the structure
bulldozed. In the end the drastic measures stopped
with reducing the principal tower to a third of its
original height.
Used by the University in the two years following the
war, and then as the seat of local government, the
Zamek has operated as a cultural centre since 1962,
hosting hundreds of theatre performances, concerts,
film screenings and other events in its palatial halls
each year. The basement houses the 1956 Uprising
Museum (see p.69), and throughout the large
complex visitors will find several restaurants, cafes and
bars, including the popular Dubliner Irish Pub. Guided
tours of the castle in English are available for 120zł but
must be booked in advance by calling +48 61 646 52
88.QA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 646 52
60, www.ckzamek.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Admission
depending on repertoire.
See Citadel Park, p.64.QG-1, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48)
61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.
pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 6/3zł. Fri free. NY
An excellent museum with a rich collection of modern
Polish art (including interesting Impressionist works) in
the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian, Dutch
and Flemish paintings in the connected old building.
The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish
art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland and plenty
of Polish art from the 16th century onwards. In addition,
a Monet painting stolen in 2000 was recently recovered
and is back on display. Selected paintings have extensive
English explanations about the artist and topic.QC-2, Al.
Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, www.mnp.
art.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. From September 16 open
09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
12/1-8zł, Sat free. YN
One of the smallest museums in Poznań, and certainly the
trickiest to find - go through the courtyard, ring the doorbell
then climb to the second floor. The series of rooms here
are filled with rusty pots, scales, vials and cast iron mortars
from the 17-19th centuries. While once you’d find yourself
wandering around in ignorance, the museum now offers
small guides in English, German and French. One room
has been designed to mimic a 19th century pharmacy -
complete with a box for morphine - while another includes
over 1,200 rare medical books, a stuffed alligator and an
inmate’s uniform recovered from Mathausen.QC-2, Al.
Marcinkowskiego 11, tel. (+48) 61 851 66 15. Open 09:00
- 15:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. Last entrance 1 hour
before closing. Admission free.
See Citadel Park, p.64.QH-1, Al. Armii Poznań (Po.
Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.
muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00;
Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł. Fri free.
© GKor / Dollar Photo Club
60 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Learn more than you ever wanted to about the Bamber
people inside an interesting museum that includes a
19th century timber house once owned by a wealthy
Bamber farmer. Inside displays include a 17th century
bonnet, looms, paintings, clothing and timber furniture
- everything you’d expect in an ethnographic museum.
QD-2, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel. (+48) 605 62 16 11, www.
bambrzy.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission free.
Situated inside an eye-poking communist-era pavilion
on the market square, the Military Museum documents
the history of the Polish military from the 11th century
onwards. Starting with scythes and halberds the collection
includes the armour of winged hussars, sabres, muskets
and cannons, as well as portraits of Polish military
commanders and famous moments in their history. The
unwieldy musket ‘kolowy’ is a particularly impressive effort,
and surely completely useless in combat. The 20th century
section features grenades, compasses and medical kits,
and the upstairs is devoted to the Wielkopolska Uprising,
with medals, uniforms and postcards from the era. The
collection was decimated during WWII, with the only
surviving item being a fragment of Wojciech Kossak’s 1901
painting, The Battle of the Pyramids.QD-2, Stary Rynek 9,
tel. (+48) 61 852 67 39, www.mnp.art.pl. Open 11:00 -
17:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. From September 16 open 09:00 - 15:00, Fri 12:00
- 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 7/1-5zł. Sat free. YN
See Wielkopolska Uprising, p.68.QC-2, Stary Rynek 3. Y
A huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented in
Brau-Hogenburg’s illustration sketched in 1618. Constructed
over a period of six years the model takes up a space of
50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The decorative details
are impressive, and you can expect lots of kids as well as
anoraked model enthusiasts pulling up the school seats
around it as they wait for the show to begin. As the lights
dim a recorded commentary begins and visitors are taken
through the area-by-area story of Poznań’s development.
Foreigners are given headsets broadcasting heavily
accented commentary in the language of their choice,
though this is at times drowned out by hilarious background
noise that includes medieval soldiers screaming in agony.
And it doesn’t end there. Now they’ve added similar models
depicting Poznań in the 10th century, as well as a detailed
model of the main square.QC-2, ul. Franciszkańska 2
(basement of the Franciscan Church, entrance from
Ludgardy Street), tel. (+48) 61 855 14 35, www.makieta.
poznan.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:15. From September open
11:00 - 17:00. Admission 15zł. YN
The Poznań Brewery - one of the largest in PL, and
producers of Lech, Tyskie, Żubr and Redds - lies on the
outskirts of the city and is a must for beer aficionados.
There is no minimum number of people required for a
tour, so you can happily book by yourself, but they do
ask that you make an appointment the day before, or at
very least on the morning of your planned visit. Despite
this, our unannounced arrival presented no significant
problems, other than having to wait half an hour in the
bar (our preferred habitat) while a guide was rustled up.
The two hour tour, available in English and German,
is both informative and thorough, and guided by
employees of the brewery chosen for their experience
and interest in the brewing process. The brewery itself,
dating from 1980, is fairly impressive and thoroughly
modern. The first hour of the tour consists of a waltz
through the production process, fermentation and
mashing, as well as the usual guff about water purity and
the like. The most striking thing about the production
plant is the lack of humans and the sheer amount of
sparkling steel and technology. For your second hour
you’ll be whisked off to the ‘multimedia centre’ for a film
on the history of the company, as well as a galaxy of other
attractions telling the story of Lech. We recommend that
you take notes because you will be quizzed on the film
when it finishes, we kid you not. Later, have your photo
taken inside a huge can of Lech, which you can then
instantly email to all of your friends, or get involved in the
bottling process which is guaranteed to bring out the
child engineer in everyone. The tour finishes with a well-
earned beer, which you can choose from their portfolio
of brands, and you of course exit through the gift shop.
To get to the brewery take tram 16 from ‘Most
Teatralny’ (F-3) to the M1 shopping centre and you can’t
miss the brewery opposite, as it has three huge towers
draped in bright green Lech flags. Alternatively a taxi
ride from the centre will set you back about 25zł.Qul.
Szwajcarska 11 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 667 74
60, www.zwiedzaniebrowaru.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun. Tours start every 2 hours from 10:00
onwards with the last tour at 18:00. You should book
a day in advance. Admission 12/6zł. Y
July - October 2015 61 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Originally built in
1980, when Poznań
was chosen to host
the EURO2012 football
championships, the
city’s stadium was re-
developed rather than
completely reconstructed, and capacity raised from
27,000 to 43,090, at an investment of €160 million.
Today the home of popular local side Lech Poznań,
INEA Stadium is one of the top stadiums in Europe,
featuring covered seating throughout, plus all the
service points you would expect at a modern sports
complex, including the rather splendid ‘12 Sports Bar
& Restaurant.’ Host to large-scale events throughout
the year, the stadium has also become a bit of a tour-
ist attraction with 45min-1hr guided tours available
in Polish, English, German and French, during which
you’ll get a chance to experience the changing rooms
that Lech Poznań call home, the Presidential boxes,
press room, conference room, the Hall of Fame and, of
course, the pitch itself; check their website for exact
tour times and prices. Getting there is easy - just catch
buses 50, 63 or 91, getting off at ‘INEA Stadion.’Qul.
Bułgarska 17 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 886 30 31,
Looking for remnants of the Peoples’ Republic? Cast
your camera to the western end of ul. Grudnia (A-2),
where the imposing Okrąglak (Rotunda) presides over a
four-point intersection. This cylindrical marvel is one of
Poznań’s defining icons and has been a listed building
since 2003. Constructed between 1948 and 1955 this
beast is a leading example of Polish modernism, built to
a blueprint by Marek Leykam. Originally slated to be ten
storeys, this eight floor masterpiece once housed Poznań’s
top department store, and it was here that during the lean
years of communism locals would queue to buy ‘luxury’
products unavailable elsewhere.
After years of abject neglect, the Okrąglak has been now
been restored and converted into 51,000 square metres of
A-class offi ce space. If you’re in need of a quick bite, visit the
surprisingly good Kuchnia Marche restaurant inside.QA-2,
ul. Mielżyńskiego 14, www.immobelpoland.com.
Built in waves beginning in 1910, the Palm House in Wilson
Park began as a small showcase for palm trees and cacti
and is now one of the largest of its kind in Europe. After the
Red Army liberated Poznań in 1945 the heavily damaged
Palm House lost almost all of its tropical plants, though
quickly restocked and reopened again in 1946. Today the
interior is filled with 1100 species of plants from all over
the globe and 170 species of fish - including some of the
largest goldfish we’ve ever seen. While all of the minimal
signage is in Polish and Latin, it doesn’t inhibit your visit if
the goal is awe. The soaring greenhouses include plants
from savannahs, deserts and tropical climates (and the
temperature reflects that; be prepared to shed some
layers when visiting this humid site) interspersed with
tanks that host creatures like iguanas and giant snakes.
The lone non-greenhouse space is reserved for temporary
exhibits and always worth a peek. Located just west of
the train station, the easiest way to get there is catch the
number 13 tram south of the market square (‘Wrocławska’
or ‘Marcinkowskiego’) and get off at ‘Matejki,’ from which
it’s only a short walk south.Qul. Matejki 18 (Grunwald),
tel. (+48) 61 865 89 07, www.palmiarnia.poznan.pl.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00; closed Mon.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 7/5zł.
Children under 3 free. YU
© Marek Hołysz; courtesy of
City of Poznań
© Michał Wrombel; courtesy of City of Poznań
62 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
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Ostrów Tumski
Just north-east of the centre of Poznań sits Ostrów Tumski
(Cathedral Island) - the island where Poznań was founded,
and “where Poland began” in the words of Pope John Paul
II. According to the prolific legend, three Slav brothers
known as Lech, Czech and Rus met on this tiny island after
not seeing each other for many years. To commemorate
their reunion the brothers named the place ‘Poznać,’ after
the Polish word for ‘to meet.’ From there the island thrived,
with a castle erected in the 9th century and Ostrow Tumski
becoming a major centre of the Piast state. More than
a millennium ago one of Poland’s first rulers, Mieszko I,
ushered the country into Catholicism here and soon after
the first bishopric was established in 968. The first iteration
of the Cathedral of Poznań was built in the second half of
the 10th century, and in the island’s thousand-year history
it has been home to kings and bishops alike. Remains of
19th century Prussian fortifications are still visible on the
Cybina riverside, easily viewable from the Jordan Bridge
(I-3). In more recent times the Communists showed their
disdain for the Catholic Church’s heavy presence in Poznań
by building a road across the island that bisected the
Archbishop’s garden (what jerks!).
A trip to Ostrów Tumski not only makes a peaceful respite
from the tackiness and tourist noise of Stary Rynek, but also
serves as an important crash course on early Polish history
and Poznań’s role in the country’s birth as a nation. Taking
that task on as its very mission, in fact, is the new Porta
Posnania Centre, which straddles the river (with its own
bridge) between Ostrów Tumski and Śródka, and should
be considered the mandatory starting point for all visitors
before carrying on to the magnificent Poznań Cathedral
Opened in early 2014, this modern culture complex
symbolically connects Poznań’s two oldest districts -
Ostrów Tumski and Śródka - via a covered ‘skywalk’ bridge
between the main exhibition building and the Cathedral
Lock - a restored section of the former Prussian river
fortifications. The main building is actually on the Śródka
side of the Cybina River, and presents the fascinating
history of the area from medieval times to the modern
day, emphasising its importance to Polish national identity
along the way, via an excellent audioguide and interactive
multimedia displays designed for the entire family. The
touring route concludes by leading visitors across the
‘skywalk’ straight into Ostrów Tumski itself, making this
the ideal starting point for exploring the district. The
audioguides are an extra charge, but are intended to
be used to explore not just the Centre, but the entire
district. Available in English, German, French and Spanish,
there are three specially designed audiotour routes -
one for individuals, one for groups, and one for families
- that make the experience worthwhile for everyone,
especially kids. Topping it off is a cafe/bar, souvenir shop
and a lovely rooftop terrace that offers unique views
of Poznań Cathedral and the surrounding area. Highly
recommended.QI-3, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76
34, www.bramapoznania.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour
before closing. Admission for the permanent exhibition
15/9zł. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 30zł. Group tickets
(10+ people) 8zł per person. Audio guide 5/3zł, family
10zł. U
July - October 2015 63 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Ostrów Tumski
The most stunning site on Ostrów Tumski is certainly
Peter & Paul Cathedral, more commonly called ‘Poznan
Cathedral,’ which ‘Cathedral Island’ takes its name from.
Originally erected way, way back in 968, this was the first
cathedral in Poland, and has had a storied history. As it
was razed, rebuilt and remodelled numerous times over
the centuries, each resulted in the addition of a new
architectural style: a 1622 fire led to a Baroque finish,
while a 1722 fire ushered in a change to neo-Classicism.
During the 1945 battle to liberate Poznań, 65 percent of
the Cathedral again burned down, exposing the building’s
buried Gothic elements and leading to its restoration in the
style visitors see today.
The interior is a trove of sacral and historical treasures,
surrounded by twelve different chapels, including
the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, which has several
outstanding examples of Renaissance art (the tombstones
of the Gorka family and Bishop Benedykt Izbienski, to be
specific) and the Baroque altar houses a miraculous crucifix
brought to the Cathedral from the former Wrocławska
town gate. The Golden Chapel was designed as the
mausoleum of the first Polish monarchs and houses the
sarcophagi of Kings Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry;
the two kings are also depicted in a bronze monument
together, above which is a painting by January Suchodolski
showing Mieszko I, the instigator of Catholicism in Poland,
destroying pagan idols.
The eye-catching high altar at the centre of the Cathedral
is a 14th/15th polyptych depicting Our Lady surrounded
by 14 female saints, while the outer wings feature
eight paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The
Cathedral’s lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning
and dates to 1720. Also worth noting are the Cathedral’s
five Gothic and early Renaissance bronze tomb slabs,
which originated at the famed Nuremburg workshop of
Herman and Peter Vischer. The slabs were originally on the
Cathedral floor to cover the entrances to tombs, but were
later mounted on pillars and chapel walls. Stolen during
the war, the slabs were returned to Poznań in 1993 and
are back on display.
Visit the vestry to request entry to the crypt, where you’ll
see evidence of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque
versions of the Cathedral, and a 10th century baptismal
font most likely used to baptise the first Polish sovereign
and his subjects. Excavations here also unearthed two
tombs, most likely of the first Polish monarchs Mieszko I
and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt houses an
exhibition of artefacts found during the excavation, and it
also leads to the crypt of the Poznań archbishops. Be aware
that the lights in the crypt are motion-activated, so if you
stand and look too long, you’ll suddenly end up in the dark.
QI-3, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.
katedra.archpoznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:30. No visiting
during mass please. Crypt entrance 3.50/2.50zł, rest of
the Cathedral free.
This small Gothic church was built in 1432-1448 and
is modelled on the West Pomeranian building style,
with a three-nave hall, star vaulting and polychromatic
decorations. The altar was designed by Wacław
Taranczewski in 1954. The adjoining building with the
crowstep gables is a Late Gothic Psalteria, dating to
1518, which contained flats for the clergy. Unfortunately
the church is closed for renovation until 2016, so it is
presently impossible to get inside.QI-3, ul. Panny Marii,
tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl.
Adjacent to the Cathedral is the large Lubrański Academy
building, once home to Bishop Jan Lubrański’s institute of
higher learning and today the Museum of the Archdiocese.
The first floor is devoted to temporary exhibits, while the
next two floors are filled with all manner of religious art
and relics, including numerous statues and paintings of the
Madonna, Jesus, and various saints, plus well-preserved
robes and heavily-bejewelled rings from Poznan’s long line-
up of bishops.QI-2, ul. Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852
61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 8/5zł, family
ticket 12zł. NY
Genius Loci gives a different view on Poznań’s medieval
genesis by unearthing, reconstructing and offering insight
into the lives of those early individuals who inhabited
the island one thousand years ago. Explore multimedia
displays and documentary films, and brave the glass
walkways while peering down at the city’s original walls
and embankments. The audioguide (included in the price)
comes in both Polish and English and helps explain how
Poznań took shape centuries ago.QI-3, ul. Ks. I. Posadzego
3, tel. (+48) 61 852 21 67, www.muzarp.poznan.pl/
rezerwat. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00; closed Mon. From October
open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 10:00 - 15:00; closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, family
ticket 10zł. Sun free. Y
Church of the Virgin Mary with Poznan Cathedral in background.
Radomil | Wikipedia | CC BY-SA 3.0
64 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
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Citadel Park
Just north of Poznań’s Old Town sits Winiary Hill and 89
hectares of picture-perfect green space known as Citadel
Park. Much like any coveted location in Poland, this scenic
overlook has a long history that involves multiple name
changes, military battles and even some old-fashioned
mystery. For visitors, the park offers not only beautiful
promenades and leafy city escapes, but also a plethora of
monuments, museums and historical tales.
The hill itself didn’t become notable until Prussia took
over Poland in 1793 and Poznań suddenly found itself in
a strategic location on the Prussian-Russian border, less
than 300km from Berlin. A fort seemed in order, and design
responsibilities were given over to the exasperatingly-
named General Carl Wilhelm Georg von Grolman. Work
began in 1828 after moving two villages - Winiary and
Bonin - to make room, and continued over the next decade.
The result was an impressive polygonal brick fortress with
1.3-1.8 metre-thick walls, observation towers, artillery
decks and even a moat, making it the central element of
the city’s defences.
Despite the efforts that went into the construction, and
seemingly opportune wars with Denmark, Austria and
France, the fort saw little military action, instead serving as
a military prison throughout the 19th century. By the time
WWI arrived, the fort was too outdated for modern warfare
and played no role until it was captured by insurgents
during the Wielkopolska Uprising in 1918, after which it
was home to Polish army units throughout the inter-war
years. When Nazi Germany occupied Poland in 1939 the
fort returned to its role as a POW camp (British, Russian
and Polish soldiers ended up here) until it was thrust into
the history books as the final Nazi stronghold during the
Battle of Poznań in 1945, finally captured by the Soviets on
February 23, 1945.
After the war, the ravaged and obsolete fort was largely
dismantled, contributing its bricks to help rebuild local
housing estates and decimated cities like Warsaw. Yet
plenty of the fort still remains, and those intrepid enough
to wander off the park’s paths will be rewarded with a
close-up look at history (this is where a guide comes in
handy, as ours pointed out locations of strategic Russian
movements, how the fort was breached, and even the
charred bricks where a group of the last German soldiers
evidently met their end). Under communism, the fort and
surrounding area were given a new strategic purpose when
Winiary Hill was turned into the chummy ‘Monument Park
of Polish-Russian Friendship and Brotherhood’ in 1962,
and a Russian cemetery and Red Army memorial soon
found a home here. Re-dubbed ‘Citadel Hall’ in 1992
after the regime finally fell, today visitors will find this
former military stronghold is home to art installations,
monuments, several museums, cemeteries and large
outdoor events. There are few better ways to spend an
afternoon in Poznań than exploring all there is to see and
do in the city’s largest park.
July - October 2015 65 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Citadel Park
Citadel Park hosts several cemeteries, but the one typically
of most interest to tourists is British Military Cemetery (also
known as the Commonwealth Cemetery). Why? It’s here
that you’ll find the graves of several of the men involved
in what is now known as “The Great Escape” (it wasn’t just
a movie folks!). In addition to the 174 servicemen from
the First World War (all of whom died in various parts of
Poland as prisoners of war) there are also 283 World War II
servicemen buried in the cemetery. Many of those graves
are airmen who died in bombing operations over what is
now the Polish city of Szczecin, but there are also several
graves of soldiers involved in the mass escape from Stalag
Luft 3 in Żagan, a feat depicted in the popular Hollywood
film, The Great Escape.
Following their daring escape, most of the fugitives were
captured by the Nazis, executed and their ashes were
buried in the local cemetery at Sagan/Żagan, before being
later moved to the military cemetery in Poznań where they
can be found today. To locate them enter the cemetery at
al. Armii Poznań (G-2); turn right and you’ll see a large white
cross and the graves of most of the murdered. The man
considered to be the mastermind of the escape is Squadron
Leader Roger Bushell, renamed “Bartlett” in the film and
portrayed by Richard Attenborough. Keep the name change
in mind when looking for Bushell’s grave, and be sure to sign
the visitor’s book that can be found inside a small door on
the large white cross monument.QG-2, Park Cytadela.
Unveiled as part of Poznań’s 750th birthday celebrations
in 2002, this massive troop of towering, headless cast iron
figures marching aimlessly across Citadel Park is offi cially titled
“Unrecognised.” 112 in all, each measuring 2 metres tall, the
odd installation is the work of local arts grad and international
art star Magdalena Abakanowicz, who is keeping mum on its
meaning. Those with ties to Chicago might recognise a similar
installation in Grant Park, while a few more of Abakanowicz’s
headless fright patrol can be found wandering lost in the
courtyard of the Imperial Castle.QH-1, Park Cytadela.
One of the most noticeable features of Citadel Park is the
Soviet Obelisk located prominently at the top of the grand
staircase as you enter the park from Aleja Armii Poznan (G-2).
The giant Socialist Realism column is dedicated to the Russian
soldiers killed during the 1945 siege of the fort, and it’s most
interesting aspect is perhaps the one you can no longer see:
the large red star affi xed to the top which disappeared in the
dead of night after the fall of communism in Poland in 1989.
Offi cial complaints by the Russian Embassy to track down
the star and its thieves were, unsurprisingly, largely ignored
by police, and for years the public was left to speculate what
became of the red emblem (a rumour that the star was filled
with jewels proved to be one popular urban myth). In recent
years, however, a local journalist looking into the mystery
was able to swiftly solve it: local firemen had removed the
star using their rescue ladders. They fessed up and turned
it over without consequence to the city, which has plans to
restore it and eventually put it on display at the Historical
Museum of Poznań.QG-1, Park Cytadela.
If the weather is nice there’s no reason not to walk to
Citadel Park from the Rynek. The stroll is just under 2km
and should take 25-30 minutes. Those who prefer a
quicker route can grab a bus at the ‘Fredry’ stop (near
Pl. Ratajskiego, B-2) and take it four stops to the ‘Armii
Poznan’ stop outside the park. Another option is tram
#3 from ‘Małe Garbary’ near the Rynek (D-1); seven stops
later you jump off at ‘Armii Poznań’ and you’re there.
City Guide Poznań offers thorough tours dedicated
solely to Citadel Park upon request that will invariably
knock your socks off. From detailed descriptions of the
Prussian-era fort’s original construction to pointing out
the sites of various World War II exchanges between
Russian and German soldiers their knowledge puts the
term “in depth” to shame.Qtel. (+48) 608 28 42 08,
Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, fot. D. Krakowiak
Wikipedia/Mateusz.Woźniak/CC BY-SA 3.0
66 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Citadel Park
The remains of this Prussian fort (which was used as a war
laboratory to produce gunpowder and shells during World
War II) prove to be the perfect location for the Museum of
Armaments, which features displays of various weaponry
and ammunition as well as photos of battles from Poznań’s
history. Most interesting for military buffs however is
the outdoor exhibition laden with a whole host of war
machinery including a T-34 tank, a ‘Katyusha’ rocket launcher,
bombers and a MIG-15. Pick up the 0.50zl English language
guide to get the most out of the place.QG-1, Park Cytadela,
tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.
poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 6/3zł, Fri free; ticket also valid for the
nearby Poznań Army Museum. NY
Recently re-opened after a long renovation, the museum
provides visitors with the chance to learn more about the
city’s military history, with particular focus on the Second
World War and the interwar period. A large number of items
from these times are on display, including various newspaper
cuttings, weapons, photos and uniforms. But other eras are
covered too, with some artifacts - such as old bullets and army
storage devices - dating back as far as 1897. Note that the
ticket also includes entrance to the Museum of Armaments,
also located in Citadel Park.QH-2, Al. Armii Poznań (Po.
Armii Poznań Citadel), tel. (+48) 61 820 45 03, www.
muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł, Fri free; ticket
also valid for the nearby Museum of Armaments. NY
Certainly one of the nicest and most popular parts of Citadel
Park, particularly in fine weather, is the ‘rosarium.’ Consisting
of six landscaped terraces planted with different roses, trees
and shrubs descending to a small lake at its centre, this is
perhaps Poz’s most romantic corner, as evidenced by all
the couples getting very cosy on the numerous benches
scattered about. Go for a stroll, stop to smell the roses, and
maybe sneak in a snog on the side.QG-1, Park Cytadela.
Erected in 1986, the ‘Bell of Peace and Friendship Among
Nations’ was installed too late to spare Poznań from a
largely turbulent 20th century, but it plays a role in the
remembering when it’s rung on holidays and anniversaries
such as Liberation Day (February 23rd) when the Germans
capitulated at the fort during World War II. Weighing 850
kg, the dove-embossed bell hangs 10m above the ground
and can allegedly be heard from 10km away.QH-1, Park
Photo courtesy of City of Poznań
Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, fot. D. Krakowiak
Umberto’s move from
Poznan’s busy café
quarter to the quieter
spot inside a former
bunker in Citadel Park
was a genius one. The
location is a relaxing
oasis surrounded by an elaborate garden, drawing
in Citadel visitors refuelling on simple salads and an
extensive list of pizzas. A small window allows folks on
the move to buy drinks, snacks and ice cream quickly
as well. But we advise you to grab a seat and enjoy
one of their trattoria’s staples, especially since a large
playground abuts the restaurant, making Umberto an
ideal spot for families using the park (there’s even water
dishes available for pets). Also at ul. Grunwaldzka 222
(Grunwald).QG-1, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) 61 670 08
99, www.umberto.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00. (25-
36zł). T6UGBS
July - October 2015 67 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Jewish Poznań
The history of Jews in Poznań dates back to the first days
of the city, though like so many other towns in Central and
Eastern Europe this rich heritage was all but extinguished
with the horrors that followed Hitler’s rise to power.
Although first recorded mention of a Jewish presence is
dated to 1364, it is commonly accepted that the first Jewish
settlers arrived in the 13th century when Prince Bolesław
the Pious issued a decree granting Jews his protection. As
Poznań grew so did the Jewish population, and by the start
of the 15th century it’s estimated that one in four buildings
on ulica Sukiennicza - the de facto centre of the Jewish
community - were occupied by Jews, a fact not lost on
city planners who promptly rechristened it ‘ulica Żydowska,’
or ‘Jewish Street’ (D-1). An influx of German burghers
and suspicious arsons marked a 15th century decline for
Poznań’s Jews, though Poznań’s Jewish population stood
around 3,000 in the early 17th century when racial tensions
reached a nadir with the infamous 1736 trial of Rabbi
Yossef, who was accused of ritual slaughter and publicly
burnt at the stake.
When the city fell under Prussian jurisdiction in the 19th
century, however, Jews slowly found themselves accepted
into the fold. Following the Great Fire of 1803 they were
allowed to live freely throughout the rest of the city and as
such ties between Jews and Germans strengthened. In fact,
so solid were these relations that the Jewish community
rallied around the Germans during the 1918-1919
Wielkopolska Uprising, a fact not forgotten by the local
Poles. When Poznań was absorbed into the Polish nation
in 1919 the Jews found themselves once more on the hard
end of local feelings, and a significant number migrated
west to Germany, where they expected greater tolerance.
With WWII looming, Poznań’s Jewish population stood
around 1,500 - a number that would vanish soon after the
city was annexed into the Third Reich in 1939. The city was
named capital of the Wartegau province, and a plan was
hatched to rid the city of its Jews within three months.
Deportations began on December 11th of the same year,
with Jews packed into cattle trucks bound for the ghettos
of Warsaw or Lublin, and on April 15, 1940, the fascist rag
Ostdeutscher Beobachter gleefully reported the removal
of the Star of David from the last synagogue left standing.
Those who remained in the Poznań region were sent to a
labour camp next to the city stadium where their duties
primarily consisted of building roads and other back-
breaking work. The camp operated until August 1943,
when the decision was taken to liquidate both camp and
inmates. Indeed, Poznań was something of a model Nazi
city, and on October 4, 1943, Heinrich Himmler gave a
sordid speech to his Nazi cronies about the extermination
of the Jewish people. A small number of Jews survived
in hiding, and after the war several hundred actually
returned to re-settle in the city. However no effort was
made by the government to re-establish Jewish culture,
and the subsequent anti-Zionist policies of the post-war
communist government saw the number of Jews dwindle
to well under a hundred.
The Nazis were meticulous in their destruction of Jewish
heritage and traces of it are few and far between today.
Rather miraculously, however, Poznań’s Old Synagogue
(D-1, ul. Wroniecka 11a) survived the war by being
converted into a swimming pool and rehabilitation
centre for Wehrmacht offi cers. The ‘swimagogue’ (as it was
cheekily known) was returned to the Jewish community
in 2002, however disrepair forced its closure and plans for
its restoration have stalled.
The early 19th century Jewish cemetery on ul.
Głogowska was destroyed and its tombstones used to pave
roads during WWII, after which the area was incorporated
into the Trade Fair grounds. In recent times, however, steps
have been taken to commemorate its existence with a
memorial plaque on ul. Głogowska 26a (E-4), and in 2008
a ceremony took place to commemorate Rabbi Akiva Eger -
commonly accepted as Poznań’s greatest Rabbi. Previously
a parking lot, his grave site has been turned into a grassy
square named in his honour. A memorial to the victims
of Poznań’s Nazi labour camp stands by the Multikino
cinema (G-5, ul. Królowej Jadwigi 51), and prayer services
take place each Friday at ul. Stawna 10 (D-1). Other efforts
to reintroduce Jewish culture to the city include the annual
Tzadik Poznań Festival (www.tzadikpoznanfestival.pl),
a feast of music aimed at celebrating the past, building
bridges and opening dialogue between local communities
(slated for September 2015, further info was unavailable at
press time).
The Old Synagogue/’Swimagogue’ at ul. Wroniecka 11a
Founded in 1999, Poznań’s Jewish community
organises commemorative events and exhibitions
around the city. Contact them by email via poznan@
jewish.org.pl for more information, or to participate
in Friday prayer services.QD-1, ul. Stawna 10, www.
68 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Wielkopolska Uprising
Since 1795 - when it was carved between Imperial Russia,
Prussia and Habsburg Austria - Poland had been off the
map and effectively ceased to be a country. Poznań
enjoyed brief freedom when Napoleon’s conquering troops
liberated much of Poland during their march east in 1806,
however Napoleon’s military disaster on the plains of Russia
resulted in the 1815 Congress of Vienna, which saw Poznań
delivered back into Prussian hands where it would remain
for over a century.
With Europe reeling after World War I, Germany in collapse,
and Russia plunged into revolutionary chaos, Polish
patriotic fervour once more simmered to the surface. The
overwhelmingly Polish people of Poznań could sense
independence was near, but there remained one crucial
sticking point: German stubbornness to relinquish the
Wielkopolska region. Woodrow Wilson’s plans for an
independent Poland had failed to set any boundaries,
and though Warsaw was back in the hands of a Polish
government, Poznań was still answerable to Berlin. Ever
since the Kaiser’s abdication on November 9, 1918,
Poznań’s Poles had been plotting an uprising. Positions
in local government and industry were forcibly seized by
Poles and the countdown was on for outright war.
Following weeks of tension the fuse was finally lit on
December 27th. Historical accounts of how the Uprising
started vary; some sources claim it was the shooting
of Franciszek Ratajczak and Antoni Andrzejewski on
the steps of the police headquarters that started the
initial fighting, though most point to a stirring speech
given by the pianist and patriot Ignacy Jan Paderewski
on the balcony of what was then the Bazar Hotel
(Al. Marcinkowskiego 10, C-2). While addressing the
Polish crowd assembled below a German counter-
demonstration passed by - within moments shots had
been fired and the Uprising had begun. Historians
disagree on which side started the hostilities, but either
way there was no turning back the clock. Within hours
Polish forces had captured the Poznań train station and
post offi ce, while other towns in the region joined them
in rebellion.
Under the temporary charge of Stanisław Taczak, the
Polish forces scored swift successes against a German
army shattered from four years of world war, liberating
neighbouring Kórnik and Mogilno, but counter attacks
suggested a stiffening German resolve. Fighting continued
and by January the situation was out of hand. To save the
region from total anarchy, the government in waiting
(christened NRL) took charge of all civil and military issues,
conscripting all Polish men born between 1897 and 1899
into military service. Taking their oaths of allegiance in what
is today Plac Wolności (B-2), the Polish troops continued to
march into increasingly fierce battles with their German
Thankfully, peace was just around the corner, due in no
small part to French intervention. February 14, 1919 saw
the beginning of international peace talks, and within two
days the French delegation had persuaded the Germans
to sign an extension of the Allied-German armistice, this
time including the Wielkopolska front. Sporadic fighting
continued for the next few days, but to all intents and
purposes, Poznań, and with it Wielkopolska, were liberated.
Sitting in the northwest end
of Drweckich Park, the Wiel-
kopolska Uprising Monu-
ment was designed by Alfred
Wiśniewski and unveiled
on September 19, 1965.
The monument itself is a
granite-covered 17 metre tall
tower decorated with reliefs
that depict the Wielkopol-
ska struggle, including the
student strike in Września,
famed Polish revolutionary
Marcin Kasprzak and the
death of the first upriser Franciszek Ratajczak. Standing
proudly next to the monument are statues of two upris-
ers: one is an offi cer with a sabre, the other a private hold-
ing a gun.QF-4, Corner of ul. Królowej Jadwigi and ul.
Primarily chronicling the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising
(though the exhibition starts at the time of partition) this
museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served
as home to the Royal Guard. The exhibition includes a
1908 Maxim heavy machine gun sitting behind a row of
sandbags, a copy of the uniform worn by the Uprising’s
commander-in-chief, as well as original state decorations
awarded to him. Other points of interest include a replica
banner flown on the night of the Uprising’s outbreak,
photos of troop formations and a series of postcards
issued to commemorate the event.QC-2, Stary Rynek 3,
tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.
poznan.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł. Sat free. NY
Radomil, pl.wikipedia.org
July - October 2015 69 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
1956 Uprising
The Poznań Riots, or the ‘1956 Uprising’ (because PL loves
its Uprisings), was the first recognised strike and street
demonstration in Communist Poland. Although brutally
suppressed, this show of the people’s strength remains
an intense source of pride for the local community, and
though it would be another 33 years until the people of
Poland would enjoy complete freedom from the Kremlin,
the uprising led to a significant liberalisation of Soviet
policy in Poland, and would act as a prelude to the 1980
Lenin Shipyard Strikes in Gdańsk that saw the birth of the
Solidarity movement.
The death of comrade Stalin in 1953 provoked a certain
degree of optimism among Poles, promising an end to the
social and political terror associated with the Soviet Union’s
hegemony of Central and Eastern Europe. Hopes were
short-lived, however, as Nikita Khruschev’s address to the
20th Convention of the USSR’s Communist Party in 1956
spoke of strengthening socialism’s grip on the East, and of
the dangers of individualism. Simmering with discontent
the Polish media helped stir local discord and on June 28th
strikes broke out in Poznań’s factories - first in the Stalin
brick factory (later the ‘Hipolita Cegielskiego Factory’),
before spreading to the city’s other major industrial
plants. An estimated 100,000 workers descended on the
Municipal National Council (now the Zamek building),
chanting slogans like ‘Bread and Freedom’ and ‘Out with
Bolshevism,’ while demanding lower prices, higher wages
and a reduction in work quotas.
Initially peaceful, the protests took a violent turn when it
was revealed that the team negotiating on behalf of the
strikers in Warsaw had been arrested and detained by
the authorities. Infuriated, the demonstrators stormed
Poznań prison, liberating 257 inmates, destroying
records and seizing armaments. Armed with assorted
small arms and petrol bombs, the insurgents marched
back to the city centre to continue their protests. With a
volatile atmosphere threatening to run out of control,
the communist authorities reacted by deploying 10,300
soldiers, 400 tanks and 30 armoured personnel carriers
to Poznań. Fierce street battles followed, but with the city
cut off from the outside world, order was quickly restored
by June 30th. The clashes offi cially left 76 civilians and
eight soldiers dead, with over 600 strikers injured (though
unoffi cial estimates were vastly higher). Victims included a
thirteen year old boy shot through the heart while waving
a Polish flag, and the news of the riots helped spark an
equally heroic anti-communist uprising in Budapest.
Although Poland was to suffer another three decades
of Communist control, the riots had a huge influence in
the shaping of post-war Poland. The Polish Communist
Party was left reeling from the chaos, and several
Stalinist hardliners found themselves dismissed in a bid
to appease the people, as limited social reforms and a
small-scale lifting of press censorship followed. A museum
commemorating the events of 1956 in the Zamek (ul. Św.
Marcin 80/82, A-2) is worth visiting to really understand
the momentous events of the ‘Poznan June.’
However impressive the nearby Adam Mickiewicz is, he
finds himself outshone by the soaring 1956 Uprising
Monument. Made of steel, the two crosses (21 and 19
metres for the number crunchers) were unveiled on June
28th, 1981, the 25th anniversary of the first rebellion
against Soviet control. A tablet commemorates a visit by
Pope John Paul II in 1997, while close by is an excellent
multi-lingual electronic information point filled with facts
about the rising.QA-2, Pl. Mickiewicza.
The Zamek is an impressive building alright, but pride of
place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring the
first armed resistance the communist regime faced. Hidden
down a side entrance this basement masterpiece features
stretchers used to carry the wounded, a tank, a display of
arms and rifles, a room of Socialist propaganda posters,
a typical Poznań family’s flat from the 1950s and a direct
copy of a detention cell. Most poignant of all, though, is
the space set aside for 13 year old Roman Strzałkowski,
the youngest to die in the troubles. Exhibits include his
harmonica and domino set, and newspaper clippings
showing Strzałkowski picking up prizes for his piano skills.
QA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64,
www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 -
17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/3zł, Sat free.
70 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
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While the people of Poznań are eager to claim their city as
Poland’s first capital, anyone with a passing knowledge of
Polish history will recognise this as a fib. That title belongs to
Gniezno, a picturesque town lying just 50km east of Poz. In all
of Poland nowhere is more synonymous with the foundation
of the Polish state than Gniezno - more about which you can
learn by reading our box on ‘The Piasts’ on p.17. Although
the capital was eventually shifted to Kraków and then
Warsaw, Gniezno remained an important centre of worship
and is still regarded today as Poland’s ecclesiastical capital. For
the visitor it is an intriguing town full of spires and cobbles - a
superb medicine to the frantic flap of urban Poland.
If your eyes are still hankering for the sight of more
treasure after a trip to the Cathedral, head here to view a
lavish collection of ecclesiastical riches: golden goblets,
embroidered vestments, state gifts received by cardinals, oil
paintings, coffi n portraits and even a chalice purporting to
have once belonged to St. Adalbert are all presented here.
An absolute feast for the eyes that is sure to present moral
dilemmas for kleptomaniacs.Qul. Kolegiaty 2, tel. (+48)
61 426 37 78, www.muzeumag.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 6/4zł. N
Housed in a functional concrete carbuncle this modern
museum features numerous audio-visual presentations
designed to appeal to the constant school trips that file
through the doors, as well copies of archaeological relics
dating back to the founding of the Polish state – that
means lots of pots, vases, bowls and daggers. Permanent
and temporary exhibits over three floors focus on the
history and culture of the Middle Ages, and the telling
of the beginnings of the Polish state in Gniezno and
Wielkopolska is aided by a 3D movie, which runs in several
languages.Qul. Kostrzewskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 426 46
41, www.mppp.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; closed Mon. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/7zł, family
ticket 30zł, group ticket over 10 people 9/6zł per person,
Sun free. U
Nothing could be easier than getting to Gniezno from
Poznań. Trains run frequently throughout the day and
you’ve got two types to choose from: the TLK is direct
and costs 19zł, while the 13.50zł REGIO is slower and
lurches to a stop at every hamlet along the way. Journey
time will take 35-55 minutes, depending. Travellers
using the TLK train should note that Gniezno is the first
stop on the route; don’t expect any announcements
alerting you to your arrival. The train station is a simple
affair featuring an ATM, newsagent and cafe, and it’s
a 10min walk to the Rynek, with the Cathedral lying
just beyond - simply follow ul. Dworcowa until you
reach ul. Mieszka I, and then follow the latter to its
conclusion. Alternatively 10zł should be enough to get
you dropped off in the market square (Rynek) by a cab.
July - October 2015 71 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Gniezno’s Cathedral is regarded as the spiritual home of
Poland’s former monarchy - it’s here Poland’s first five kings
were crowned. To truly enjoy it requires two visits; a guided
tour sees all manner of stories and legends revealed, while
a follow up solo tour allows you to really take stock of the
riches and relics before you.
Ask anyone and they’ll tell you the
principal highlight of the Cathedral is
the ‘Gniezno doors,’ a pair of winged
bronze doors from the 12th century
where you naturally begin your tour.
Featuring 18 panels, each masterfully
engraved with scenes from the life
of St. Adalbert, start from Adalbert’s
birth on the bottom left panel, and
then follow his story upwards and
around. Of note are an exorcism
illustrated on the sixth panel, and his
murder on the fourteenth. Yep, that’s
his head on a stick in the next. Regarded as one of the most
important pieces of Romanesque art in Poland, ironically
no one has a clue who created them, unlike the portal
that frames the door - look closely and you’ll notice the
signature scribble of the craftsmen on the left side. Worthy
of further investigation in its own right, the portal dates
from 1400 and features an engraving of Jesus sitting on a
rainbow (rainbows were believed to mark the entrance to
heaven) with two swords in his mouth - symbolic of the
power he wields in both heaven and earth.
Next up is a trip to the crypt - the highlights of which include
Poland’s oldest gravestone, the coffi ns of the country’s past
primates, and the pattern of the tiled floor (which you might
recognise from the 10zł note) - before onto the Cathedral
proper. Originally built between 1324 and 1370 the Cathedral
has been patched up and embellished over the course of
time, and nowadays it is the Baroque flourishes that steal
the show. It’s impossible to put a figure on the number of
must-see details, and it’s at this stage where having a guide
becomes invaluable. The 13 arcades around the presbytery
are symbolic of Jesus and the 12 apostles, and there’s a
heavy emphasis on allegorical symbolism. At the rear of the
Cathedral you can spot one of only two works by Wit Stwosz
found outside Kraków. In total the Cathedral is surrounded
by 13 side chapels holding a number of points of interest,
including a miracle working crucifix found in the Chapel of
Jesus. The cross has accompanied the Polish army into battle
since the 17th century when it was first seen to bleed.
The elaborate gold confession, situated at the top end of
the Cathedral, is stunning, and said to be modelled on
the Confession of St. Peter’s in Rome. Beneath it is the
silver sarcophagus of St. Adalbert, designed by Gdańsk
master craftsman Peter van Rennen. Considered the most
important relic in the country the silver coffi n is balanced
on six eagles, and carried on the figures of a priest, peasant,
townsperson and knight.
An interesting church with a Gothic tower whose key
feature is a ‘millennium clock’ complete with a moving
figure of St. Adalbert. Much of the church was destroyed
by fire and its interiors were thereafter treated with a
baroque brush. Outside are the only skeletal remains of
the ancient city walls which once ringed Gniezno.Qul.
Farna 6, tel. (+48) 61 426 15 55, www.fara.gniezno.
pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. No visiting
during mass please.
Photo by Janos Korom Dr., flickr.com, CC BY-SA 2.0
© gkordus/istockphoto.com
72 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Unfortunately visitors are denied the opportunity to view
the library. Treasures here include Poland’s oldest book
(dating from 880AD), a papal edict that features the first
recorded use of the Polish language, and numerous letters
penned by Poland’s former regents. Though frustrating, this
locked door policy is fully understandable. The Cathedral
has had misfortune served up in spades. Its significance
to the Polish state has not been lost on invaders and as
a result it’s been burned, looted, battered and destroyed
on numerous occasions. Napoleon’s troops turned it into
a stable, while the ‘liberating’ Red Army shelled it for no
apparent reason.
The Nazis, meanwhile, replaced St. Adalbert’s portrait with
that of Hitler and planned to use the building as a concert
venue for high-ranking fascists. Legend goes, however,
that on opening night a bishop drifted unannounced
across the hall and disappeared into the crypt below.
Shots were fired at the unannounced gatecrasher, but
none hit their mark, spooking the Nazis enough to scrap
their plans and not set foot inside again. Unfortunately this
didn’t stop them from employing Volksdeutsch workers
and systematically stripping the building of its valuables,
melting the gold and shipping off countless treasures to
shady vaults. Only the confession and the organ escaped
them - the latter only to be blown to smithereens by the
Soviets in 1945. The bell tower shared the same fate, which
explains why you’ll see the original bell lying outside the
main entrance. Rebuilt (with no bell) the bell tower is
open from May 1st and its 231 steps lead to panoramic
views across town.Qul. Łaskiego 7, tel. (+48) 61 424
13 89. Open 09:00 - 11:45, 13:00 - 17;00; closed Sun.
From September 09:00 - 11:45, 13:00 - 16:00; closed
Sun. Admission requires 3 tickets to see the Cathedral’s
3 highlights: Cathedral 1.50zł/1zł, Underground
2.50zł/2zł, Doors 2.50zł/2zł.
To get the most out of your visit we recommend you hire
a guide; again each section is separate: Cathedral 30zł,
Underground 20zł, Doors 10zł. Note the prices here are
to hire the guide, not the price per person, and you still
need a separate ticket/s.
Photo by Marcin Chady, flickr.com, CC BY 2.0
Gniezno received its city charter in 1285, as a bustling
area of commerce developed around its market square
(Rynek). The great fire of 1819 gutted this area, and
most buildings have been rebuilt. What remains of
the city’s defensive walls can be found south of the
Rynek close to ul. Słomianki and the Holy Trinity
Church. You’ll notice religious buildings at every turn,
though predictably none representing the Jewish faith;
after a high-ranking Nazi offi cial broke his leg while
clambering up it in an alcoholic stupor, he ordered the
town synagogue set ablaze. In recent years, Gniezno’s
finest moment came when the Congress of Gniezno
was held here in 2000. The leaders of Germany, Poland,
Czech Republic, Hungary and Slovakia met in Gniezno
to celebrate the town millennium, and in a symbol of
unity planted five oak trees in the ‘reconciliation valley’
running north of the Rynek. The German chancellor
later dined in the restaurant of the Hotel Pietrak (itself
a former vodka factory), and today diners have the
opportunity to order exactly what he ate.
An Aladdin’s cave of Gniezno-related info. Expect English
language pamphlets, maps and brochures, as well as hotel
and restaurant lists and guided tours supplied courtesy of
an amicable young team of local enthusiasts.QRynek
14, tel. (+48) 61 428 41 00, www.szlakpiastowski.com.
pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. From
October open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
International Festival Wratislavia Cantans
7he e|desr and mesr jameas |n W·ec|aw jesr|za|
of vocal and choir music and
a celebration of the oratory tradition.
Brave Festival
A voice against cultural exile.
7he W·ec|aw /esr|za| ej Dwa·js
L|rr|e and h|g c|r|zens ej W·ec|aw ce|eh·ared.
7-Meh||e New He·|zens
International Film Festival.
74 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Whether you’re looking to take a break from the bustle
of the Rynek or just want an excuse to stretch your legs,
Poznań offers a multitude of parks, green spaces and
recreational activities to consider. First and foremost
are the 89-hectare Citadel Park (see p.64) - full of leafy
promenades, historical monuments and museums, and
Lakes Malta and Rusałka - two of the most unique urban
recreation areas in the country. As such, we’ve devoted a
separate section to each; find our feature on Lake Rusałka
on page 6, and a special subdivision of our Leisure pages
devoted to all of the attractions and activities around Lake
Malta’s shores on page 76. Whatever you’re looking for, use
the listings here to stay active in every season.
Add authenticity to the paintball experience by taking
aim at your mates in Fort IXA - a 19th century military fort
in Dębiński Forest.Qul. 28 czerwca 1956 352 (Wilda),
tel. (+48) 511 20 58 55, www.poznan-paintball.pl.
Open by prior agreement. Prices are available via their
website and depend on the type of route and play
Poznań’s premier go karting track with over 2,600 metres
of track and carts for both kids and adults.Qul. Bolesława
Krzywoustego 72, (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 872 01
97, www.gokartypoznan.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 24:00. Admission 22.50-37.50 zł per 12min.
At first glance, MK Bowling looks like a cross between an
American diner and a night club - mainly down to the red
booths, large bar and larger choice of drinks - including
the very American option of ordering beer by the pitcher.
It’s on the lanes (seven in total) where you’ll find the real
fun, however, and there are plenty of daily promotions,
including student discounts Mon-Thu until 17:00 (before
which bowling is only 40zł/hour). If you can beat our top
score of 268 then the next pitcher is on us.QB/C-2, ul.
Święty Marcin 24 (Galeria MM), tel. (+48) 61 222 50 51,
www.mkbowling.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 03:00. Prices vary depending on day of the week and
hour of day: 10-16zł per person per game, or rent 1hr of
lane time for everyone for 59-89zł.
You’ll find pretty much all you could ever need for some
serious ‘R&R’ (that’s rest and relaxation) in this 500m2 beauty
salon and wellness club on the 2nd floor of the Andersia
Hotel. Includes a swimming pool with hydro-massage,
jacuzzi, Finnish and steam sauna, gym, relaxation room,
aerobics room, solarium, bar and more.QG-4, Pl. Andersa
3 (IBB Andersia Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 667 83 00, www.
spaharmonia.pl. Wellness section open 06:30 - 22:30;
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:30 (sauna, solarium, gym, jacuzzi). Spa
open daily 10:00 - 22:30 (body treatments). Y
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July - October 2015 75 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Experience everything from a traditional Thai foot massage
to a full body massage at Thai-Land, which features
monthly promotions and passes that give customers a
welcome discount.Q(C-3), ul. Długa 14, tel. (+48) 510 40
45 04, www.thai-land.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
Anyone looking to escape the raucous buzz of Poz’s city
centre could do a lot worse than relaxing with a fine
massage. A peaceful, modern environment (with English
speaking staff) only five minutes from the market square,
Thai Smile Massage is an ideal place to forget about the
day’s woes while you let one of the authentic Thai massage
therapists work their wonders. Two rooms to choose
from (massage room and the oil room) and a cup of tea
afterwards is enough for the IYP staff to give this place the
thumbs up.QB-3, ul. Ogrodowa 17/4, tel. (+48) 727 90
52 96, www.thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
After a strenuous day of of shopping and sightseeing,
what better way to relax those weary muscles and
kick back than a nice massage? With soft music and
wonderful staff who know just what you want without
even asking, Thai Spa caters for all needs and is the
perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle of the busy
centre. It’s easy enough to get to (just hop on the
number 15 or 16 tram to ‘Poznan Plaza’), but make sure
you check the timetable back as you might end up
staying longer than you planned. Qul. Drużbickiego
11 (Piątkowo), tel. (+48) 61 840 76 66, www.thaispa.
com.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Poland’s oldest zoo dates to 1874 and still has some
picturesque old pavilions, but most of the critters have
been carted off to the New Zoo on the other side of
the city, and the Old Zoo has largely been reshaped as a
public park. There is, however, a modern Reptile House
here, where you can watch Komodo dragons strutting
their stuff, pythons slithering, and caymans splashing
around. It’s worth the admission price, and enjoyable to
visit without the exhaustion and crowds of the New Zoo.
QE-3, ul. Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. (+48) 61 848 08 47,
www.zoo.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. From October
open 09:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission free; 8/6zł for the Reptile House. YU
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76 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
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Lake Malta
Of Poznań’s many lakes it’s Malta - to the east - that is the
best known, and its surroundings are well worth further
investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of damming the
Cybina, this 2.2km long lake is the largest man-made lake in
the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Surrounded by
parks and woodland, it is today one of the principal recreation
areas in the region - in both summer and winter - with an ice-
rink, ski slope (the first in former communist Europe), a world-
class regatta course, zoo, water park, and dozens of other
attractions, including several historical sights. Just east of the
centre, but miles from the madness of the market square, if
you’re in town to decompress, head to Malta.
What you see before you wasn’t always a lake, more of a
river running by Poznań. In 1178 Prince Mieszko invited
representatives of the Knights Hospitaller to the region, and
they in turn built St. John of Jerusalem Church (J-3, ul.
Świętojańska 1) - now regarded as the oldest brick place of
worship in the country. By 1530 the West European branch
of the Knights had resettled on Malta, and so their order
found itself renamed The Knights of Malta. The chaps who
had come to Poland followed suit, and soon the locals were
also referring to the area they decamped to as ‘Malta.’
For the next few hundred years Malta went largely
unnoticed, and it was only in the 19th century that the
people of Poznań suddenly realised they had a great
place to head for a weekend stroll, or wobble around on
a newfangled contraption called a bicycle. Adding to
Malta’s appeal was its dense greenery and relative isolation
from prying eyes, making it popular with frisky couples.
After WWI numerous ideas for Malta came to the fore,
but all eventually hit a wall with the exception of Adam
Ballenstaedt’s ‘Freedom Mound.’ Not ones to faff around and
wait for planning permission it was the Nazis who actually
changed Malta to the Malta we know today. It was on their
initiation that thousands of slave workers were drafted in
and began damming the river to create a lake, and while
they never saw their plans realised, the communists who
took over did. The job was finished in 1952, and the results
you can see for yourself.
Between 1980 and 1989 the lake was completely drained,
and the surrounding area given a facilities facelift in time
for the World Canoeing Championship in 1990. Today it’s
still regarded as a top-quality course, as proved by the
decision to hold the 2009 World Rowing Championships
here. An enormously popular leisure destination for people
throughout the region, new attractions and facilities are
constantly being added as the area’s allure continues to grow.
Lake Malta is situated just to the east of the city centre,
and Rondo Śródka (J-3), at the lake’s northwest corner,
is the best place to access it. Below are the public
transport options from three main points in the centre.
Alternatively, a taxi from the centre to the north shore
will cost about 15-20zł.
From the train station (E-4): Take tram 6 from the
‘Most Dworcowy’ stop directly to ‘Rondo Śródka.’ The
journey takes about 15 minutes.
From ul. Podgórna (C-3): There is no directly tram
connecting Podgórna with Rondo Śródka. You should
take trams 5 or 16 from the ‘Wrocławska’ stop and get
off at the ‘Kórnicka’ stop. Then take tram 6 to the ‘Rondo
Śródka’ stop.
From ul. Małe Garbary (D-1): Take tram 17 from the
‘Małe Garbary’ stop and get off at ‘Rondo Śródka.’
July - October 2015 77 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Each summer Malta Ski hosts the Malta Ski Summer Cinema,
with free outdoor lakeside screenings of popular films on a
giant screen, and room for over 300 people. This year the
cinema will occupy the terrace near Sygnatura restaurant,
beside the Alpine Coaster. Screenings occur on Friday and
Saturday nights in July and August at 22:00 (from mid-
August 21:00), but it is subject to the weather. Check their
FB page to see what’s playing.QK-4, ul. Wiankowa 2, tel.
(+48) 533 31 50 55 , www.maltaski.pl.
Located on the east end of Lake Malta, this adventure park
features 4 ropes courses (3 for adults, one for kids over 3
years old) and Tyrolka - a sweet 65m zip line.Qul. Abpa
A. Baraniaka/Chartowo, tel. (+48) 660 04 89 01, www.
pyrlandpark.pl. Open every day 10:00 - 18:30, though
bear in mind that this is a weather-dependent attraction.
Rope courses 20-35zł each, or 30-60zł for both; kids 15zł;
familly ticket (2 adults plus 1 kid) 70-80zł. Tyrolka 15zł
(10zł with ropes course receipt). Y
The 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in
1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over
2,000 beasts representing 140 species, it’s comprised of 60
percent pine and mixed forests with a man-made stream
and string of ponds running through the grounds. In this
way many of the creatures live in recreations of their natural
habitats rather than concrete pens. Highlights include the
modern elephant house, and circling the whole shebang
is a year-round mini-railway, meaning visitors can jump
off at whatever creature cage takes their fancy. On top of
that, your ticket is also valid for a guided tour of Fort 3 -
part of Poz’s system of 18 separate 19th century forts that
circle the city. Fort 3 is located smack in the centre of the
zoo, and offers a chance to creep around in claustrophobic
underground passageways.
Located beyond the far east end of Lake Malta (not actually
on the lake), you can get there by taking the Maltanka
mini-railway to the last stop ‘Zwierzyniec.’ If coming from
the centre of Poz, you can take tram 8 to the end of the line,
but it’s bit of a hike from there (about 940m); alternatively
get yourself to Rondo Rataje (I-5) and catch bus 84 to
‘Nowe ZOO.’ A taxi from the centre costs about 30zł.Qul.
Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877 35 17,
www.zoo.poznan.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. From October
open 09:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 15/8zł, family ticket 35zł; weekend admission
20/10zł, family ticket 50zł. YU
Hit speeds of 50km on this summer toboggan run, a
daredevil experience that twists and turns the foolish and
the brave over the course of a 530 metre track. Prices start
from 5-7zł per dash, and the run should be open once the
weather warms.QK-4, ul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 533 31
50 55 , www.maltaski.pl. Y
Lake Malta
A 500 metre long roller coaster filled with twisting loops
(even a 360 degree twist) that hauls screaming visitors
around the track at 40km per hour.QK-4, ul. Wiankowa 2,
tel. (+48) 533 31 50 55 , www.maltaski.pl. Opening hours
depend on the weather. 1 ride in a 1-person cart 7zł;
3rides 15zł. 1 ride in a 2-person cart 12zł; 3 rides 25zł. Y
Pleasing the paying public since 1956, this is one of the
last 600mm narrow gauge railways in PL, faithfully pulled
by ‘Borsuk’ (Badger) - a steam engine with two whistles.
Operating from May to the end of September it’s a unique
attraction for rail buffs, and also a great way to view Malta.
Better still, this is one of the most practical ways to get to
the ‘New Zoo’ - catch it from the Maltanka stop near Rondo
Śródka (J-3) and ride it to the end, namely the Zwierzyniec
stop at the zoo. Trains run on the hour Mon-Fri 10:00
- 18:45; weekends on the half hour 10:00 - 18:00; tickets
6/4zł.Qtel. (+48) 61 839 66 90, www.mpk.poznan.pl/
18 hole mini golf course overlooking Lake Malta; hours and
availability weather-dependent.QK-4, ul. Wiankowa 2,
tel. (+48) 533 31 50 55 , www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00 -
21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Admission 13-17/11-14zł.
Our first thought was boat rental, but nope, that would
be too conventional for Lake Malta. This what happens to
Poz’s 70m artificial ski slope in summer (April to the end of
September to be exact) - people go speeding down it in
plastic inner tubes.QK-4, ul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 533
31 50 55 , www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. Admission 4zł. Y
Located on the north shore of lake Malta this year-round
facility offers sport pools (one Olympic-sized and another
with a 10-metre diving tower), a water park (a series of
11 pools including a wave pool and children’s play pool)
and 12 water slides along with two wild rivers. There is
also the World of Saunas (14 saunas, two of which are
outdoors, and a vapour bath) and, most recently, a full
spa complex (Spa 1306) with underground thermal
springs, offering a range of therapeutic baths, massages
and other health treatments from the fully trained staff.
QK-4, ul. Termalna 1, tel. (+48) 61 222 61 61, www.
termymaltanskie.com.pl. Sport pools open 06:00 -
23:00, Sun 07:00 - 23:00; water park open 09:00 - 23:00;
World of Saunas open 15:00 - 23:00, Sat & Sun 13:00
- 23:00; Spa 1306 open 13:00 - 21:00, Sat & Sun 11:00
- 21:00. Admission 20-30zł (sport pools + water park
+ saunas) for the first hour with prices getting lower
each additional hour. Y
78 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
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Yes, that’s a Burberry store you see in Poznań. And Armani.
Even Versace. You can wander through the vast, award-
winning Stary Browar mall or the new Poznań City Centre
spending złoty until you’ve solved the European debt
crisis, but if you’re bringing gifts back to show your loved
ones what a trip to Poznań is like, a Burberry bag made in
London won’t cut it. That’s why throughout this section
we’ve made an effort to list establishments selling gifts that
actually say, “I went to Poland.”
Vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the country
is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely
shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of
jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some
Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.
YES jewellery stores can be found throughout Poland,
but this location on ul. Paderewskiego sets itself apart by
being an exclusive gallery, curated by YES founder Magda
Kwiatkiewicz herself, showcasing the highest achievements
in artistic jewellery by Polish designers. As such, it has
played a significant role in the shape and direction of the
Polish jewellery market for over a decade, and in addition
to their lovely commercial display cases, the exhibits held
here are always worth a peek.QC-2, ul. Paderewskiego 7,
tel. (+48) 61 851 58 48, www.galeriayes.pl. Open 11:00 -
19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
The Global Blue Card
Your Passport to Great Savings,
The World Over (more information at gb’s website)
1. You are a non-EU traveler
2. In the shop you spent a minimum of 200 PLN
3. You export the purchased goods
outside of the EU
Non-EU residents are entitled to claim a VAT tax re-
fund on purchased goods that they are taking out
of European Union in an unused condition in their
personal luggage. Refunds apply to all merchandise
in any shop displaying the Global Blue logo, and
the minimum total purchase (including VAT) must
be 200zł (about 50 Euro). Fill out a Tax Free Form at
check-out when shopping, and then have it stamped
when leaving your final point of departure from the
EU in order to reclaim your money. For full details
check www.globalblue.com.
July - October 2015 79 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Major amber retailer and wholesaler with over 20 years of
experience to their name.QC-3, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary
Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 66 88, www.
desta-amber.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
The historic centre is filled to bursting with dusty little
stores selling antiques (look for signs saying ‘Antyki’ or
‘Antykwariat’). A quick exploration of the side streets
will reveal everything from WWII memorabilia to 19th
century coins and navigational charts. Do remember
when purchasing that permission will be required if you’re
planning on taking anything pre-1945 out of the country -
for the most part such a certificate will be provided by the
shop, though do check beforehand.
Specialises in old toys, technological relics, pre-war
postcards and other special keepsakes.QD-2, ul.
Klasztorna 1, tel. (+48) 61 851 75 13. Open 11:00 - 18:00,
Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
A vintage bookseller that rewards those who are patient
enough to dig through boxes of old postcards, prints and
telegrams. It’s easy to lose track of time while meandering
along the well-stocked shelves. Also at ul. Wielka 10 (D-2).
QC-2, ul. Paderewskiego 3/5, tel. (+48) 61 852 63 12,
www.antykwariat.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun.
Poznań’s premier commercial gallery, Mokra specialises in
19th and 20th century pre-war WWII Polish painting, and
their consultants boast serious credentials. This is a place for
earnest art collectors, with canvasses available from some of
the biggest names in Polish art, including Olga Boznańska,
Wojciech Weiss, Piotr Michałowski, Leon Wyczolkowski and
Jacek Malczewski.QH-3, ul. Chwaliszewo 72/2, tel. (+48)
61 851 87 37, www.galeriamokra.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
This large store is a one stop shop for foreign press and
magazines (prices are gougey though), guidebooks, there’s
a somewhat decent English-language book selection, CDs,
DVD, video games and more. Find them in almost any Polish
shopping mall. Also in Galeria Malta (J-4).QC-3, ul. Półwiejska
42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 667 12 01,
www.empik.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Poznań’s open-air markets are the best places to get
cheap local produce and some of the only places in the
centre where you can buy vegetables that aren’t white
or in jars. Add to that meats, cheeses, spices, baked
goods, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders
and literally anything else you can think of and you’ve
got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well. Practise
your “Proszę” and point skills at any of the unique
shopping environments listed below, and remember
that haggling and attempting to pay with large bills
will both be met with disdain.
One of Poznań’s most historic and centrally located
markets is just west of the Old Town on historic
Rynek Jeżycki. Established in 1891, this was once one
of the city’s finest market squares, as evidenced by
the faded glory of some of the intricate Art Nouveau
facades on the tenement buildings that surround
it. Lately the area has been going through a bit of a
resurgence, and though the market itself may be a bit
tatty and you can hardly expect English to be spoken
or understood, the 400 merchant stalls here are still
a good place to pick up fresh fruit and vegetables,
as well as peruse clothing and other random goods
you might be wiser not to take home. You certainly
won’t beat the prices.QE-3, Rynek Jeżycki, www.
targowiska.com.pl. Open 06:00 - 18:00. Closed
With Poznań’s historic main market square apparently
not big enough, fruit and veg merchants have been
relegated to this 1600 square metre plaza only a few
minutes walk away. Renovated and generally more
orderly than some of Poz’s other open-air markets,
this is the best place for fresh produce in the Old
Town. Among its 200 tent-covered stalls you’ll also
find copious amounts of meat, cheese, nuts and
other food products, fresh-cut flowers, pots and pans,
socks and sweatpants, sweets, screws, staplers, toilet
scrubbers and whatever else you can imagine.QC-1,
Pl. Wielkopolski, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open
06:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
More reviews online:
80 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
Poznań happens to be the comics capital of Poland (if
we can proclaim such a title), and home to Centrala - the
country’s top publisher of independent comics (in English!,
www.centrala.org.uk), as well as Ligatura - the country’s
biggest festival devoted to comics (July 03-05 2015, www.
ligatura.eu). Plug into Poland’s comic book culture by
visiting KiK - a very centrally located comic book store with
an assortment of graphic novels in English, plus fantasy
novels, games and other nerdy fanboy stuff.Qul. Św.
Marcin 26. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed
Worth seeking out, this is Poznań’s best music store - full
of thousands of new and used vinyl records and CDs
covering all genres, but also with an emphasis on more
contemporary DJ-favoured sounds like techno, house,
electronica, drum’n’bass, breakbeat, etc. Inside you’ll also
find plenty of DJ and home stereo equipment, accessories
for taking care of records, music merch and other gear that
make the crew behind Vinylgate the leading ambassadors
for the city’s vinyl revival.QB-2, ul. Garncarska 3, tel. (+48)
501 72 77 97, www.vinylgate.eu. Open 13:00 - 19:00, Sat
12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
This former bistro and cafe has blossomed into a shop
since we last visited, and a look at their website (from
which you can also purchase their goods) gives you a good
idea of what’s on offer: top quality organic and gluten-
free products such as pasta, spices, jams, honey and other
cooking supplies, all at surprisingly reasonable prices. For
those wanting to experience the place first-hand, there
are still a few tables left for enjoying their limited ala carte
menu, which includes pizza, pancakes, sandwiches and
freshly-baked gluten-free sweets. The on site mini-bakery
alone makes it worth a trip.Qul. Śmigielska 13A, tel. (+48)
665 45 08 58, www.friendlyfoodshop.pl. Open 12:00 -
18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
When it comes to eateries and boozers, ul. Wrocławska has a fair
few strings to its bow, but now here’s another reason to take a
look - and it’s aimed at families. In this charming and colourful
hand-made sweets shop, most of the interior is occupied by
the long work counter where young ladies are busy rolling out
the delicious goodies that cover the shop shelves as children
and their parents watch in wonder. Not only a great local
gift idea, but a unique experience for children, choose from
a range of reasonably-priced lollipops and hard candies that
come in dozens of flavours from rhubarb to whiskey-cola.
Candy making takes place daily at 12:30, 14:00, and 16:00 (and
also 17:00 until the end of August), and Sat-Sun they add two
more chances at 15:00 and 17:00.QH-3, ul. Wrocławska 12,
tel. (+48) 511 59 29 19, www.slodkieczarymary.pl. Open
11:00 - 19:00. From October open 10:00 - 18:00.
Anyone familiar with the ‘Weranda Family’ knows that their
cafes guarantee great service, a cosy atmosphere and some of
the best decor around. Weranda Deli & Gifts is no different and
given the fact it’s located on Poznań’s most exclusive street, you
can now add bragging rights to the above list. But the main
highlight here is the gift shop where you can treat yourself to
some of their jams, honeys and olive oils. Bring a large bag -
you’ll need it.QC-2, ul. Paderewskiego 7, tel. (+48) 697 67 78
55, www.werandadeli.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00.
A leading chain of souvenir shops selling native arts and
handicrafts.QD-2, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. (+48) 61 852
58 14, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun.
Hand-crafted and hand-painted ceramics originating in the
south-west of Poland with many of the patterns forming an
important part of the shared Silesian culture of Germans and
Poles. The ceramics available cover a wide range of designs and
functions with everything from small egg cups to huge flower
pots on offer. The designs are often attractively simple and can
make for an interesting present.QB-2, ul. Mielżyńskiego 16,
tel. (+48) 61 853 47 98, www.ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
A wide selection of souvenirs connected with Poznań
including lots of stuff with the most popular symbols of
Poznań. Pick up t-shirts, cups, ornaments, post cards, and
the like all associated with the head-banging goats for
instance. You’ll also find the most popular selection of
books and albums relating to Poznań, Wielkopolska and
Poland in foreign languages as well as locally produced art.
A smaller selection of the above is also available at Stary
Rynek 59/60 (C-2) and at the airport.QB-2, ul. Ratajczaka
44, tel. (+48) 61 854 07 54, www.cim.poznan.pl. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Located in the gorgeously renovated Bazar Hotel
(right next to Burberry), this luxury fashion boutique
features women’s clothing, shoes and accessories from
top designer brands like Casadei, Christian Louboutin,
Gianvito Rossi, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, One Teaspoon,
Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino and Victoria
Beckham. Shop online to find even more swag and
savings.QC-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 10, tel. (+48) 61
855 19 54, www.Moliera2.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Moliera 2 Baza zar Pozn znaanski
Moliera 2 Bazar Poznanski
+48 61 855 19 54
82 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
This outlet centre is preoccupied with fashion, offering top
brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping
malls. Recognisable names among the brands include
Puma, Calzedonia, Desigual, Gino Rossi, Mango, Reserved
and more. One of the only such outlet centres in Europe,
free bus 630 runs there regularly from Rondo Rataje (I-5).
If the Rondo is too far a hike, you can take trams 12 or 18
from ‘Most Dworcowy’ (E-4) to get there.Qul. Dębiecka 1,
Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 652 30 30, www.factory.pl. Open
11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
The largest retail and entertainment centre in western
Poland with over 162,000 square metres of shopping
and leisure opportunities. Opened in March 2009, Malta
features a Multikino as well as a Marks & Spencer, H&M,
TK Maxx, Benneton, Tatuum, Pull & Bear, Vero Moda and
Empik. Dining opportunities include Salad&Co and Coffee
Heaven. Bus lines 57 and 84 go right to the door, as do
trams numbers 4 and 6.QJ-4, ul. Maltańska 1, tel. (+48)
61 658 10 22, www.galeriamalta.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Shopping ‘centres’ simply don’t get any more ‘central’
than this modern marvel located right next to Poznań’s
impressive new train station; as such, it couldn’t possibly be
better connected to public transport or easier to get to and
from. Featuring over 200 retail spaces, including Saturn,
H&M, TK Maxx, Royal Collection and Toys R Us, Poznań
City Centre also offers plenty of cafes, restaurants and
fast food eateries, as well as a multi-level parking garage.
Opened as recently as October 2013, if nothing else this
mega-complex is worth checking out just to appreciate
how much Poznań has developed and progressed over the
last several years.QE-4, ul. Stanisława Matyi 2, tel. (+48)
61 627 01 90, www.poznancitycenter.pl. Open 09:00 -
Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the award-
winning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed an art,
leisure and shopping extravaganza, and its success a sign of
Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its opening in 2003 after a
$66 million USD investment also marked a successful move
away from out-of-town developments, and a new trend
for inner-city regeneration projects. Covering an area of
over 100,000m2, and drawing an average of 40,000 people
daily, Stary Browar features over 210 retail units, including
the Van Graaf designer store, Alma gourmet delicatessen,
several bookshops, some outstanding restaurants and
much, much more. 2007 marked the completion of phase
II of the Stary Browar project - the expansion of a new wing,
thereby nearly doubling it in size.QG-4, ul. Półwiejska 32,
tel. (+48) 61 859 60 50, www.starybrowar5050.com.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka
since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some
of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two
most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be
Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any
alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing
them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally
reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of
Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most
popular of which we describe below.
Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka,
wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see
students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at
the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in
corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit
juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright
red monogamy cure.
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of
its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka
flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly
palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and
mulling spices added.
One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports,
Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since
the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific
to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each
bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild
fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as
it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined
with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’
84 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
In Poznań, unfortunately, unless you are Russian or
American, your nearest embassy is likely in the capital,
Warsaw, some 310km away.
CZECH REPUBLICQul. Koszykowa 18, Warsaw, tel.
(+48) 22 525 18 50, www.mzv.cz/warsaw.
DENMARKQul. Marszałkowska 142, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 565 29 00, www.polen.um.dk.
GREAT BRITAINQul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.
IRELANDQul. Mysia 5, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 849 66
33, www.embassyofireland.pl.
NETHERLANDSQul. Kawalerii 10, Warsaw, tel. (+48)
22 559 12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.
RUSSIAQE-3, ul. Bukowska 53a, tel. (+48) 61 841 77 40.
SLOVAKIAQul. Litewska 6, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 525
81 10, www.mzv.sk/varsava.
TURKEYQul. Malczewskiego 32, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22
854 61 10, www.warsaw.emb.mfa.gov.tr.
USAQC-2, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. (+48) 61 851 85 16,
HCP - CENTRUM MEDYCZNEQul. 28 Czerwca 1956
r. 186 (Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 831 29 03, www.centrum-
Qul. Szwajcarska 3 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 873 93
46, www.szpital-szwajcarska.poznan.pl.
BERLITZQF-3, ul. Mielżyńskiego 14A, tel. (+48) 61 222
20 22, www.berlitz.pl.
EMPIKQB-1, ul. 27 Grudnia 17/19 (2nd floor), tel.
(+48) 61 851 00 62, www.empikschool.com.
POCZTA POLSKAQA-2, ul. Kościuszki 77, tel. (+48)
61 869 74 08, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 07:00 -
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
QE-4, ul. Głogowska 17, tel. (+48) 61 869 72 67, www.
poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.
Our services directory lists everything possible that we
think could be of use and which doesn’t fit nicely elsewhere.
Use the listings here when things go wrong and you need
to find a doctor or embassy, or when you’ve become so
smitten with Poz that you’ve decided to relocate here
permanently. Whether a traveller or expat, we hope you’ll
find these listings helpful.
QC-1, ul. 23 lutego 18, tel. (+48) 61 852 26 25.
APTEKA GALENICAQC-3, ul. Strzelecka 2/6, tel.
(+48) 61 852 99 22, www.aptekagalenica.pl.
LOTOSQJ-3, ul. Jana Pawła II 2, tel. (+48) 519 07 56 26.
MAŁGOSIAQB-1, ul. Karola Libelta 6.
Currency exchange offi ces (‘Kantor’) are easy to find
in Poznań, but as with any international destination, it’s
imperative to check the rates to ensure you aren’t getting
fleeced. The general rule is you should never change
your money at city entry points, particularly at the airport
where the rates are almost criminal. To help put your
mind and your wallet at ease, we’ve vetted them for you
and assembled a list of well-located exchange offi ces
that won’t rip you off or take a commission.
KANTOR CORNERQE-4, ul. Głogowska 79, tel.
(+48) 61 866 01 19, www.kantorcorner.pl. Open
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
KANTOR GOLDQC-3, Pl. Wiosny Ludów 2 (Kupiec
Poznański), tel. (+48) 61 850 89 51, www.kantor-
gold.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00.
KANTOR PRZEMEKSQG-4, ul. Półwiejska 42
(Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 859 64 66, www.
kantorprzemeks.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00
- 20:00.
KANTOR PRZEMEKSQD-2, ul. Garbary 62, tel.
(+48) 61 855 76 10, www.kantorprzemeks.pl. Open
09:30 - 17:30.
July - October 2015 85 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
POCZTA POLSKAQD-2, ul. Wodna 17/19, tel. (+48)
61 886 55 19, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 -
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
QE-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 324, tel. (+48) 61 867 99 01,
LUXMEDQE-3, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. (+48) 22 33 22
888, www.luxmed.pl.
QA-2, ul. Fredry 1 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 602 21 55 09,
Polish services translated to English at 10:00 every Sunday.
QOs. Bolesława Chrobrego 117 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48)
514 919 664, www.k5n.pl.
Services take place Fridays at 13:30.Qul. Biedrzyckiego 13
(Wilda), tel. (+48) 61 864 10 48.
English-speaking service at 10:30 every Sunday.QE-3, ul.
Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznań Hotel), tel. (+48) 791 99
04 94, pastor@international.pl, www.international.pl.
Qul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 737
72 00, www.corstjens.com.
Qul. Księdza Wawrzyniaka 2, Komorniki, tel. (+48) 61
665 01 61, www.uer.pl.
Translation services including English and German as well
as many European and Asian languages.Qul. Starowiejska
1a/5 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 828 80 81, www.btd.pl.
European and oriental languages.Qul. Szeherezady 47
(Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 868 44 47, www.btbs.com.pl.
The new
puts you in
On any device.
86 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
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QG-4, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 80, www.
blowuphall5050.com. 22 rooms (22 singles, 18 doubles).
PHUKD hhhhh
QE-4, ul. Wyspiańskiego 26a, tel. (+48) 61 221 84
00, www.cityparkhotel.pl. 88 rooms (88 apartments).
PTH6FKDC hhhhh
QG-4, Pl. Andersa 3, tel. (+48) 61 667 80 00, www.
andersiahotel.pl. 171 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles,
27 apartments). PTH6UFLKDXCw
QA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 67, tel. (+48) 61 624 88 00, www.
nh-hotels.com. 93 rooms (93 singles, 93 doubles).
QE-3, ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.
sheraton.pl/poznan. 180 rooms (167 singles, 167 doubles,
13 apartments). PTH6UFLKDCw
Visitors to Poznań will be pleasantly surprised to find that the
city is home to some of the most impressive hotel properties
in the country. While Poznań’s role as Poland’s epicentre
for conferences and fairs has clearly benefited those who
like plush accommodations and modern conveniences to
come standard, on the flip side those major conferences
can cause prices to shoot up when space is in demand
(rates tend to double during the annual MTP, Polagra,
Budma and Infosystem fairs). Fortunately most hotels
compensate by offering impressive weekend discounts to
encourage travellers to stick around and explore the city.
With the increasing irrelevance of offi cial rack rates these
days due to these special offers, online booking discounts
and other price variations, we no longer find it particularly
instructive to list room prices in our guide, as we once did.
Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a
combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities.
The venues listed here also serve as distribution points
for our print guide, which can be picked up for free at the
reception desks of the addresses listed.
On our website you’ll also find full reviews, plus photos and
reader comments, on all of the hostels and hotels listed in our
print guide, plus dozens of other accommodation options in
the region; unfortunately, space constraints no longer allow
us to print these reviews. Accommodation is categorised here
subjectively based on a combination of lodging type, location,
price and amenities. The venues listed here also serve as
distribution points for our print guide, which can be picked up
for free at the reception desks of the addresses listed. Sleep well.
July - October 2015 87 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
QC-2, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68,
www.brovaria.pl. 21 rooms (3 singles, 17 doubles, 1
apartment). PTHK hhh
QC-2, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. (+48) 61 859 05 90, www.
donprestige.com. 73 rooms (52 singles, 47 doubles, 20
suites). PTH6FLK
QD-2, Pl. Kolegiacki 5, tel. (+48) 61 855 05 05, www.
hotelkolegiacki.pl. 24 rooms (24 singles, 21 doubles).
PHUK hhhh
Qul. Chojnicka 49 (Kiekrz), tel. (+48) 502 78 78 10,
www.regattahotel.pl. 23 rooms (22 singles, 22 doubles,
22 triples, 1 apartment). THUFKDCw
Qul. Wałecka 2 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 847 58 38,
www.hotel-solei.pl. 23 rooms (6 singles, 16 doubles, 1
apartment). TH6K hhhh
QK-4, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. (+48) 61 874 11 00, www.
hotelepark.pl. 97 rooms (96 singles, 96 doubles, 1
apartment). PTYH6UK hhh
Qul. Bułgarska 115 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 868 78 31,
www.hotelmats.pl. 35 rooms (3 singles, 21 doubles, 9
suites, 2 apartments). TH6UKD hhh
QE-3, ul. Roosevelta 20, tel. (+48) 61 855 80 00, www.
mercure-poznan-centrum.com. 228 rooms (227 singles,
187 doubles, 1 apartment). PTH6UFLKD
Y hhhh
Ul. Św. Marcin 2, 61-803 Poznań
Tel. +48 61 8590 590
Fax. +48 61 8590 591
P Air conditioning H Conference facilities
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking on site
K Restaurant w Wellness
D Sauna X Smoking rooms available
6 Animal friendly C Swimming pool
88 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
QE-2, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. (+48) 61 845 66 00,
www.campanile.com. 80 rooms (76 singles, 76 doubles,
4 apartments). PTH6UK hh
QD-1, ul. Wroniecka 24, tel. (+48) 61 222 29 99, www.
gardenhotel.pl. 18 rooms (3 singles, 12 doubles, 2 suites,
1 apartment). PTK
QE-4, ul. Grunwaldzka 222, tel. (+48) 61 899 32 63,
www.hotel-222.pl. 51 rooms (51 singles, 51 doubles).
PHK hh
Qul. Dworska 1 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821 36 66,
www.hotelforza.pl. 24 rooms (24 singles, 24 doubles).
PTHK hhh
Qul. Ostrowska 391/393 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48)
61 872 63 19, www.hotelkj.pl. 24 rooms (6 singles, 17
doubles, 1 apartment). PTHK hhh
Qul. Krańcowa 4, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 649 99 88, www.
hotelpoznanski.pl. 107 rooms (100 singles, 100 doubles,
7 suites). THUK hhh
QH-4, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. (+48) 61 858 44
00, www.accorhotels.com. 146 rooms (146 singles, 146
doubles). PTH6UK hh
QG-2, ul. Kościuszki 118, tel. (+48) 61 658 71 05, www.
hotelewam.pl. 145 rooms (57 singles, 80 doubles, 8
suites). PTH6ULK hhh
QA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 74, tel. (+48) 61 853 01 51, www.
hotel-lech.poznan.pl. 77 rooms (77 singles, 44 doubles,
3 triples). H hh
QE-1, ul. Litewska 22 (Park Sołacki), tel. (+48) 61 656 53
53, www.hotelmeridian.com.pl. 10 rooms (10 singles, 10
doubles). PH6K hh
Traditional Thai Massage
Open 7 days a week
Reservation: ul. Długa14/2a
+48 510 404 504
QG-4, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. (+48) 61 858 70 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 480 rooms (160 singles, 310 doubles,
10 apartments). PTH6UFLKY hhhh
QK-3, ul. Termalna 5, tel. (+48) 61 654 31 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 149 rooms (149 singles, 149 doubles).
Qul. Reymonta 19 (entrance from ul. Wyspiańskiego)
(Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 882 39 40, www.
platinumpalace.pl. 14 rooms (14 singles, 13 doubles).
PTH6K hhhh
QD-1, ul. Stawna 12, tel. (+48) 61 333 10 00, www.
purohotel.pl. 136 rooms (134 singles, 134 doubles, 2
suites). PTH6UFK hhhh
ROYALQA-2, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. (+48) 61 858 23
00, www.hotel-royal.com.pl. 39 rooms (11 singles, 26
doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment). THL hhh
QG-1, ul. Winogrady 9, tel. (+48) 61 858 81 00, www.
vivaldi.pl. 48 rooms (38 singles, 9 doubles, 1 apartment).
PTH6KDw hhhh
Full reviews of 87 hotels,
hostels and apartments online:
July - October 2015 89 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Qul. Browarna 37 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 878 99
35, www.mlynskiekolo.pl. 14 rooms (12 singles, 12
doubles, 2 apartments). 6K
Qul. Lechicka 101 (Stare Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821 07
00, www.quality-hotels.pl. 107 rooms (42 singles, 58
doubles, 7 apartments). PTH6UKDC
QD-1, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 510 11 01 30, www.hotel-
solei.pl. 10 rooms (6 singles, 2 doubles, 2 apartments).
QC-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 22, tel. (+48) 61 852 81 21,
www.hotelrzymski.pl. 87 rooms (28 singles, 53 doubles,
1 suite, 5 apartments). TH6ULK hhh
QC-3, ul. Rybaki 36, tel. (+48) 61 659 00 43, www.
hotelstaremiasto.pl. 23 rooms (3 singles, 18 doubles, 1
suite, 1 apartment). PH hhh
TOPAZQF-5, ul. Przemysłowa 34a, tel. (+48) 61 833
76 00, www.hotel-topaz.pl. 38 rooms (9 singles, 26
doubles, 2 triples, 1 suite). TH6UK hhh
QD-2, ul. Klasztorna 19, tel. (+48) 61 224 94 22. 6 rooms
(6 singles, 4 doubles, 2 quads). T6
GOLDQul. Bukowska 127a (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 842
07 74, www.goldhotel.pl. 11 rooms (11 singles, 11
doubles). H6 hh
Qul. Dąbrowskiego 474 (entrance from ul. Wejherowska
10, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 94 99, www.hotelramka.pl.
26 rooms (24 singles, 24 doubles, 2 suites). P6K
QE-4, ul. Śniadeckich 7, tel. (+48) 606 88 88 00, www.
evelvet.pl. 9 rooms (9 apartments).
QC-3, ul. Piekary 16, tel. (+48) 61 852 53 00, www.
capitalapart.pl. 29 rooms (29 apartments). T6
QB-3, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 671 05 66,
www.apartamenty.platinumpalace.pl. 27 rooms (27
apartments). T6
90 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
QC-3, ul. Rybaki 12, tel. (+48) 515 377 320, www.
apartamenty-pomaranczarnia.pl. 41 rooms (41
apartments). T6
QD-3, ul. Wszystkich Świętych 6, tel. (+48) 600 96 55
55, www.explorerhostel.pl. 22 rooms (22 singles, 12
doubles, 6 triples, 3 quads). LK
QF-3, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. (+48) 61 852 12 30,
www.fusionhostel.pl. 17 rooms (3 doubles, 3 triples, 70
dorm beds ). UY
QC-2, ul. Marcinkowskiego 20, tel. (+48) 61 852 20
74, www.lagitarra.com/poznan. 16 rooms (2 singles, 5
doubles, 6 quads, 60 dorm beds ). 6
QC-2, Stary Rynek 67 (entrance from ul. Kozia 16), tel.
(+48) 61 851 60 60, www.melody-hostel.pl. 16 rooms (2
singles, 10 doubles, 1 quad, 22 dorm beds ). T
QB-3, ul. Taczaka 23, tel. (+48) 796 23 05 55, www.
hostel.poco-loco.pl. 10 rooms (2 doubles, 4 quads, 50
dorm beds ). 6
QC-2, ul. Wrocławska 13, tel. (+48) 61 855 27 61. 9
rooms (9 singles, 9 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad). T
QC-2, Stary Rynek 77, tel. (+48) 61 639 40 04, www.
sleepinhostel.pl. 27 rooms (20 singles, 20 doubles, 7
apartments). 6
QE-3, ul. gen. Jana Henryka Dąbrowskiego 27a, tel.
(+48) 793 27 27 20, www.sodahostel.com. 14 rooms (8
singles, 5 doubles, 3 quads, 36 dorm beds ). TY
QC-2, Al. Marcinkowskiego 11/17, tel. (+48) 61 855 17
63, www.very-berry.pl. 21 rooms (8 singles, 13 doubles,
4 triples, 3 quads, 24 dorm beds ). 6
Qul. Jeziorna 1a, Komorniki, tel. (+48) 61 810 80 75,
www.greenhotel.pl. 44 rooms (40 singles, 36 doubles, 4
apartments). PTH6ULKD hhh
While many foreign visitors to Central Europe may be
unfamiliar with Poznań, businesspeople involved in
foreign trade are likely to be more than aware of the
city. That’s because Poznań is Poland’s trade fair capital
with the title justified by the country’s largest fair
grounds, where the biggest and best fairs in Poland
take place each year.
Though Poznań’s rich trading tradition can be
traced back to the thirteenth century, the true
predecessor of today’s fair was the 1911 East German
Industrial Exhibition, which showcased Germany’s
achievements in annexed Polish territories. Six years
later the Union of Merchant Associations, comprising
merchants from Greater Poland and Eastern
Pomerania, decided to develop a specialised cyclical
expo based on the successful model of the Leipzig
Trade Fair. This idea reached fruition on May 28, 1921,
when the first Poznań Fair took place. Since then,
the Fair’s fortunes have risen and fallen according to
the political and economic changes that periodically
moved through Poland and Europe: from playing a
key role in re-integrating economic activities in the
newly independent second Polish Republic, to the
near-demise of the fair complex during WWII air raids
(which destroyed the iconic Upper Silesian Tower),
and to a new start in the post-war communist state.
Though the 1950s were a time of uncertainty and
tension, with the fair closed down for a few years due
to the Cold War atmosphere, the ‘60s proved to be a
period of robust growth, so much so that organisers
started running out of exposition space. From 1973
on, the event was broken up into smaller chunks, as
more specialised fairs branched off from the main
Currently, the Poznań International Fair constitutes
over 60% of the Polish exhibition industry, hosting
some 10,000 exhibitors a year - approximately a
quarter of them foreign - in the complex’s sixteen halls,
which add up to 150,000 square meters of space. The
total number of annual visitors attending the sixty
or so trade fair events - everything from welding to
horticulture, logistics to beach fashion - usually reaches
half a million.
200 stores 
30 restaurants 
1 500 parking spaces - 1h free
July - October 2015 93 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Street Register
23 Lutego B/C-1
27 Grudnia B-2
3 Maja B-1/2
Al. Armii Poznań G-1/2
Al. Cytadelowiczów G-1
Al. Marcinkowskiego C-1/2
Al. Niepodległości A-1/3
Al. Republik H-1
Al. Wielkopolska E-1/F-2
Barzyńskiego E/F-2
Bastionowa G-1
Berdychowo I-4
Bnińska K-2/3
Bolesława Krzywoustego
Brandstaettera H-1
Bukowska E-3/4
Bydgoska J-2/3
Cegielskiego H-4
Chopina F-2/3
Chwiałkowskiego F/G-5
Cicha F/G-2
Czartoria H/I-3
Długa C/D-3
Dominikańska D-1
Dożynkowa G-1
Droga Dębińska H-5
Drzewna F-4/5
Drzymały E/F-1
Dworcowa E/F-4
Działowa G-2
Działyńskich B-1
Dziekańska I-2/3
Ewangelicka H-3/H/I-4
Filipińska I/J-3
Franciszkańska C-2
Fredry A-1/2
Gajowa E-3
Garbary D-1/2
Garncarska A-2
gen. Dąbrowskiego E-3
gen. Maczka F-1
Głogowska E-4/5
Główna J-1/2/K-1
Gołębia C/D-2
Góra Przemysła C-1/2
Górna Wilda F/G-5
Graniczna E-5
Grobla D-2
Grochowe Łąki G-2/3
Grudzieniec E/F-2
Grunwaldzka E-3/4
Gwarna A-2
Inflancka K-5
Jana Pawła II I-4/5/J-3/4
Jaskółcza C-2
Jeżycka E-2
Kaliska J-4
Kanałowa E-5
Kantaka B-2
kard. Wyszyńskiego I-3
Katowicka J-4/5
Kazimierza Wielkiego H-4
Klasztorna D-2
Kochanowskiego E-2/3
Kopernika G-4
Koronkarska J-2
Kościuszki A/B-1/2/3
Kozia C/D-2
Kórnicka I-4/5/I/J-5
Krakowska G-4
Kramarska C/D-1
Krasińskiego E/F-3
Kraszewskiego E-3
Królowej Jadwigi G-4/5
Krysiewicza C-3
ks. Posadzego I-3
ks. Wujka F-5
Księcia Józefa G-2
Ku Cytadeli H-2
Kurpiowska F-2
Kurza Noga C-2
Kwiatowa G-4
Libelta A/B-1
Lubrańskiego I-2/3
Ludgardy C-2
Łady E-2
Łaskarza J-3
Łazienna H-3/4
Łąkowa G-4
Łucznicza I-5
Majakowskiego J/K-4
Małachowskiego J-2
Małe Garbary D-1
Małeckiego E-5
Małopolska E-1
Mansfelda E-2/3
Mariacka K-1
Masztalarska C-1
Mazowiecka E-1
Mączna E-2
Mickiewicza E-3
Mielżyńskiego B-1
Młyńska B-1
Mokra D-1
Mostowa D-2
Murna C-2
Muśnickiego D-3
Mylna E-2
Na Podgórniku G/H-2
Na Szańcach H/I-1
Nad Bogdanką E-2
Nad Wierzbakiem E-1
Niedziałkowskiego F/G-5
Noskowskiego F-2/3
Nowowiejskiego B-1/2
Ogrodowa C-3
Ostrów Tumski I-3
Ostrówek I-3
Owsiana F/G-1
Paderewskiego C-2
Panny Marii I-2/3
Pasaż Apollo G-4
Piaskowa H-3
Piastowska H-5
Piekary B-3
Pl. Andersa G-4
Pl. Wolności B/C-2
Podgórna C/D-2/3
Podolska E-1
Podwale J-2/3
Wielkopolskich A-3
Poznańska E-2
Północna H-2
Półwiejska C-3
Prużańska K-5
Przemysłowa F-5
Przepadek G-2
Przystań I-4
Pszenna G-1
Pułaskiego F-2
Ratajczaka B-2/3
Ratuszowa C-2
Roosevelta E/F-3
Rybaki C-3
Rynkowa C-1/2
Serafitek I-4/5
Sienkiewicza E-3
Sieroca C-2
Składowa A-3
Skośna F-3
Sochaczewska F-1
Sokoła E-1
Solna G-3
Sowia J-5
Spadzista G-5
Stary Rynek C/D-2
Stawna D-1
Strusia E-5
Strzałkowskiego E-2/3
Strzałowa C-3
Strzelecka C-3
Szelągowska I-1
Szewska D-1
Szkolna C-2
Szymańskiego C-3
Śląska E-1
Ślusarska D-2
Śródka I/J-3
św. Czesława F/G-5
św. Jacka I-3
św. Marcin A/B-2/3
św. Marii Magdaleny D-3
św. Michała J/K-3
św. Wawrzyńca E-2
św. Wojciech G-3
Święcickiego E-4
Świętojańska J-3
Świętosławska D-2
Święty Marcin F/G-3
Taczaka A/B-3
Taylora A-2/3
Topolowa H/I-3
Warszawska J-3
Wąska E-2
Wenecjańska H-3
Weteranów I-5
Wielka D-2
Wieniawskiego A-1
Wierzbięcice F-5
Wierzbowa H-4
Wieżowa I-3
Winogrady G-1
Wodna D-2
Wojska Polskiego E-1
Wolnica C-1
Wołyńska E-1
Woźna D-2
Wrocławska C-2
Wroniecka D-1
Wszystkich Świętych D-3
Wysoka B/C-3
Za Bramką D-3
Za Cytadelą G/H-1
Zachodnia E-4/5
Zagórze I-3
Zamkowa C-1
Zdrojowa K-3
Zeylanda E-3
Zielona D-3
Żniwna G-1
Żydowska D-1
94 Poznań In Your Pocket poznan.inyourpocket.com
3 Kolory 28
1956 Uprising Monument
1956 Uprising Museum 69
Adrenaline Alpine Coaster
Antykwariat 79
Antykwariat Naukowy 79
Apartamenty Velvet 89
Apetyt 35
Archdiocese Museum
57, 63
Archeological Museum 57
Atmosfera Live Music Club
Bar a Boo 32
Basilium 45
Bazar 1838 37
Bistro La Cocotte 25
Blow Up Hall 5050
28, 45, 86
Blue Note Jazz Club 45
Botanical Garden 7
British Military Cemetery 65
Brovaria 28, 30, 46, 87
Browar Pub 46
Cafe Bordo Restaurant 42
Cafe Misja 42
Campanile 88
Capital Apartments 89
Casa de Vinos 46
Cepelia 80
Ceramika Bolesławiecka 80
Chłopskie Jadło 37
Church of the Virgin Mary
Chwirot 40
City Guide Poznań 54, 65
City Information Centre 55
City Park Hotel &
Residence 86
Classic 25
Cocorico 42
Concordia Taste 28
Cuba Libre 49
Czarna Owca 49
Czekolada 50
Czerwona Papryka 39
Dąbrowskiego 42 29
Dark Restaurant 41
Deep Go Go 50
Delicja 29
Donatello 32
Don Prestige 87
Drukarnia Skład Wina &
Chleba Poznań 26
Empik 79
Explorer Hostel 90
FACTORY Outlet 82
Falstart 46
Figaro 32
Flavoria 29
Franciscan Church 56
Friendly Food 80
Fusion Hostel 90
Fusion Restaurant 26, 30
Galeria Malta 82
Galeria Mokra 79
Galeria YES 78
Garden Boutique
Residence 88
Genius Loci Archeological
Park 63
Gniezno Archdiocese
Museum 70
Gniezno Cathedral 71
Gold 89
Gospoda Poznańska 37
Green Hotel 90
Green Way 40
Harmonia SPA 74
Headless Figures 65
Historical Museum of
Poznań 57
Holy Trinity Church 71
Hotel 222 88
Hotel ForZa 88
Hotel Kolegiacki 87
Hotel Księcia Józefa 88
Hotel Poznański 88
Hotel Ramka 89
Hotel Regatta 87
Hotel Solei Golf 87
HP Park 87
Hygieia 55
IBB Andersia Hotel 86
Ibis 88
Ikar 88
INEA Stadium 61
Kawiarnia Nocna Kisielice
KiK 80
Kontenerart 46
Kriek Belgian Pub & Cafe 47
KulTour.pl 54
KURO by Panamo 33
Kyokai Sushi Bar 33
La Guitarra 90
LAS 50
Lavenda Caffe Drinks Food
Lech 88
Lech Visitor Centre 60
Le Palais du Jardin 26
Lesser Basilica of St.
Stanislaus 56
Le Targ 29
Literary Museum of
Henryk Sienkiewicz 58
Ludwiku do Rondla 34
Lugana 32
Maltanka Mini Railway 77
Malta Ski Mini Golf 77
Malta Ski Pontoon Hire 77
Malta Ski Summer Cinema
Maltese Baths 77
Mat's 87
Mavi Kuş 41
Melody Hostel 90
Mercure Poznań Centrum
Meridian 88
Minister CAFE 43
Ministerstwo Browaru 47
MK Bowling 74
Młyńskie Koło 37, 89
Models of Poznań 60
Moliera 2 Bazar Poznański
Mollini 33
Monument of the 15th
Poznań Lancers Regiment
Monument of the Polish
Underground State &
Home Army 55
Monument to the Heroes
of the Poznan Citadel 65
Monument to the Victims
of Katyń & Siberia 55
Mrowisko 47
Museum of Armaments
59, 66
Summer is lake season in Poznań. Find out all there is to do at Lake
Malta (pictured) on page 76, while this issue’s feature focusses in on
Lake Rusałka (p.6). © Dariusz Krakowiak
July - October 2015 95 facebook.com/PoznanInYourPocket
Breakfast 30
Currency exchange 84
Dark Restaurant 41
Decoding the Menu 25
Editor's Note 12
Facts & Figures 14
Have Your Say 43
INEA Stadium 61
Kontenerart 46
Lake Rusałka 6
Language Smarts 15
Lech Visitors Centre 60
Market Values 14
Markets 79
Milk Bars 35
Off Garbary 50
Polish Food 36
Polish Vodka 82
Poznań Tourist Card 12
Poznań Trade Fairs 90
Taczaka Street 49
The Bambergers 16
The Imperial Castle 59
The Old Town Hall 57
The Old Town Square 54
The Piasts 17
The Royal Castle 58
Tipping Tribulations 40
Useful Transport Apps 11
Wine Bars 46
World War II Poznan 56
Musical Instruments
Museum 58
Mykonos Grecka Tawerna
National Museum 59
NH Poznań 86
Novotel Poznań Centrum
Novotel Poznań Malta 88
Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem 38
Off Garbary 50
Okrąglak 61
Pacha 50
Pad Thai 40
Paintball Fort Dębiec 74
Palm House 61
Park Sołacki 8
PETIT PARIS Boulangerie
30, 43
Pharmacy Museum 59
Piano Bar 47
Piano Bar Restaurant &
Cafe 33
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 48
Platinum Palace
Apartments 89
Platinum Palace Residence
Poco Loco Hostel 90
Pod Arkadami 35
Pod Pręgierzem 43
Pomarańczarnia 90
Porta Posnania Interactive
Heritage Centre of
Cathedral Island 62
Poznań Army Museum
59, 66
Poznan Bamber Museum
Poznań Cathedral 63
Poznan City Center 82
Poznań Indoor Karting 74
Pracownia 26
Projekt Kuchnia 30
Przy Bamberce 38
Przysmak 35
PURO Hotel Poznań 88
Pyrland Park 77
Quality System - Hotel
Poznań 89
Racja Mięsa 38
Ratuszova 38
Restauracja Mamasitas 34
Restauracja Momo 30
Restauracja MUGA 30
Restauracja Patio Provence
Rezydencja Solei B&B 89
Rose Garden 66
Rosemary's Hostel 90
Royal 88
Rusałka Beach 8
Rzymski 89
Sakana Sushi Bar 34
Salon Posnania 80
Setka 48
ShaDes 27
Sheraton Poznan Hotel 86
Shivaz 27
Sleep In Hostel &
Apartments 90
Słodkie Czary Mary 80
Soda Hostel & Apartments
SomePlace Else 25, 48
SPOT. 31
SQ 50
St. Adalbert's Church 56
Stare Miasto 89
Stary Browar Shopping
Mall 82
Stary Marych 55
Świat Bursztynu 79
Taczaka 20 43
Taj India 27
Targowisko Jeżyckie 79
Targowisko Wielkopolskie
Thai Fast Wok 40
Thai-Land Massage 75
Thai Smile Massage 75
Thai SPA 75
The Bell of Peace and
Friendship Among Nations
The Imperial Castle 59
The Mexican 34
The Museum of the
Origins of the Polish State
The New Zoo 77
The Old Town Hall 57
The Old ZOO 75
The Royal Castle 58
Toboggon Run Pepsi 77
Topaz 89
Tour Guide Services 54
Tourist Information Centre
Twoja Stara 50
Umberto 66
Very Berry Hostel 90
Villa Atelier 89
Vine Bridge 31
Vinylgate Recordstore 80
VisitPoznań 54
Vivaldi 88
Warto nad Wartą 39
Weranda Deli & Gifts 80
Weranda Lunch & Wine 31
Whiskey in the Jar 48
Wiejskie Jadło 39
Wielkopolska Martyrs
Museum 8
Wielkopolska Military
Museum 60
Wielkopolska Uprising
Monument 68
Wielkopolska Uprising
Museum 60, 68
Yeżyce Kuchnia 39
Zielona Weranda 43
Zindo Sushi Korean -
Japanese Restaurant 34
Lake Rusałka
Old Zoo
Fancy House
Poco Loco
La Guitarra
NH Poznań
City Park Hotel & Residence

Blow Up
Stary Browar
IBB Andersia
Boutique Hotel
Puro Hotel
Poznań Army
Museum of
Rose Garden

Citadel Park
i R
0 m 175 m 350 m 525 m

HP Park


















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