The 2 for 1 Hat | Knitting | Crochet

The 2 for 1 Hat

By Josh Ryks

Materials: 3 24’’ size 9 circular needles 2 skeins of worsted weight yarn, about 150-200 yds of each Scissors Cable needle 2 yarn needles A size G Crochet hook

Explanation of double knitting:
This hat is knit in double knitting. This type of knitting produces a two-sided fabric and allows the hat to be completely reversible. To double knit, you have two times the number of stitches necessary to make a hat. For instance in this hat you have 80 stitches for one side of the hat. But since it’s double knitting, you are essentially making two hats with a stitch count of 80 each, for a total of 160 stitches. Now when you double knit, you have a sequence of one stitch A, followed by one stitch B, followed by one stitch A, followed by one stitch B, etc. To knit these stitches, you essentially do K1, P1 ribbing around, but you carry both yarns together. So when you start a round you are going to knit the first stitch with yarn A, then grab both yarns and bring them both to the front and purl the next stitch with only yarn B. You then take both

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yarns to the back and knit the next stitch with only yarn A. You repeat this across the row and throughout the hat. To do chart knitting in double knitting you take your chart and follow it, matching a B stitch with an A stitch. To do this, when the chart says to knit 1 stitch with A, it is accompanied by a purled B stitch and when the chart says to knit 1 stitch with B, it is accompanied by a purled A stitch. This forms the chart on both sides of the fabric, making the fabric inverses of each other, i.e. completely reversible. To decrease in double knitting, you need to reorient the stitches so that there are 2 A stitches next to each other and 2 B stitches next to each other. To do this, you need a cable needle and a little patience. The next step is really easy once you understand what to do. To decrease, slip the A stitch purlwise to the right needle, slip the B stitch purlwise onto the cable needle and hold in the back, slip the next A stitch purlwise to the right needle, slip the B stitch from the cable needle onto the left needle, slip both of the slipped A stitches onto the left needle and k2tog or ssk as the pattern states, then p2tog, or p2tog tbl as the pattern states.

Earflap:
You will be making two sets of earflaps and joining them together to double knit. So you will have four earflaps in total and two brims. In the earflaps, you will be slipping the first stitch of every row knitwise and purl the last stitch. This forms a edge to crochet in later and makes a clean edge. You also will be joining the earflaps into a band and placing one aside and working on the other set. After finishing the last earflap band, you will join them together and begin double knitting in the round. With B, CO 10 sts. R1: k9, p1. R2 (RS): Sl 1 kwise, M1, k8, M1, p1. R3: Sl1 kwise, k10, p1. R4 (RS): Sl 1 kwise, M1, k10, M1, p1. R5: Sl 1 kwise, k12, p1. R6 – 16: Repeat row 5 for a total of 8 ridges in the earflap. Break yarn, place on a needle, and make another earflap like the first. Do not break yarn.

Earflap Band:
R1 (RS): Sl 1 kwise, M1, knit to end of earflap, turn, CO18 sts using the knitted cast on, turn, join other earflap by knitting to the last st of earflap, M1, p1. (48 sts) R2: Sl 1 kwise, knit to last st, p1. R3: Sl 1 kwise, M1, knit to last st, M1, p1.

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R4: Sl 1 kwise, knit to last st, p1. R5: CO 30 sts using the knitted cast on, knit to end of row. Set aside, leaving on needle, but do not break yarn! Make another earflap band with A up to Row 5 of joining the earflaps.

Joining Round:
This is where you’ll join the hat together for double knitting. You are still using A and this round starts after Row 4 of the earflap joining. You will be using the set aside needle with the color B earflap band and set the hat up for double knitting. With A, CO 30 sts using the knitted cast on. Joining rnd: * k1 A, Slip 1 pwise B from the set aside needle. Rep from * until there are 40 A sts and 40 B stitches on the circular needle, then grab another needle and continue k1 A, sl 1 pwise B until all the stitches are on the needle. (160 sts total, 80 on each needle) After that long row, you are finally set up for double knitting!

Brim:
Join and begin working in the round. The hat is done on two circular needles and has 40 A stitches and 40 B stitches on one needle and the same amount on the other needle. Now you are going to knit 5 garter “ridges” for the brim. A garter ridge is formed by: Rnd 1: Place both yarns on their respective sides (i.e. put yarn A on the right side (front) and put yarn B on the wrong side (back)) and p1 A, k1 B to the end of rnd. Now take both yarns, hold them in the back and keep them together for this round. Rnd 2:* k1 A, bring both yarns to the front, p1 with only yarn B, bring both yarns to the back and k1 with only yarn A; rep from * to end of rnd. Repeat Rnds 1 – 2 until you have done 10 rnds. On the last round, place a marker after the 20th B stitch on each needle.

Hat:
Now you are going to add in some chart knitting and to have some fun!! Using the chart as a guide, begin double knitting the chart. To do this remember that an A stitch is immediately followed by a B stitch, and a B stitch is immediately followed by an

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A stitch. So if the chart says to knit a stitch with B, the very next stitch is a purled A stitch. And the same is true for a knit A stitch followed by a purled B stitch. The chart is one quadrant of the hat and needs to be repeated 3 more times to end a round. So you knit the chart to the marker, slip the marker, and repeat the chart for the next quadrant and you continue to do this until you have completed a whole round. So a whole round contains 4 complete charts. Work the chart remembering that a B stitch is followed by an A stitch and an A stitch is followed by a B stitch. Also remember that to double knit, carry both yarns along – but only knit or purl with the required yarn (yarn A or B) When you get to the decreasing section of the chart, remember to look at the explanation and relax! After you finish knitting the chart and doing the decreases, you should have 4 stitches A and 4 stitches B left. To finish off the hat, break yarn A leaving a long tail and thread onto a yarn needle. Break yarn B, leaving a long tail and thread onto another yarn needle. Now to draw the hat closed you need to grab the A stitches with the A needle and the B stitches with the B needle. (i.e. thread the needle with yarn A through the A stitches and the needle with yarn B through the B stitches) To do this, thread needle A through the A stitch, then thread needle B through the B stitch to the end of the round. Now you are going to push the B needle to the underside of the hat and keep needle A on the right side. Using A, draw the hat closed and secure by weaving the yarn through the stitches and tracing some stitches with the yarn. Clip the tail close to the fabric and allow the tail to slip in to the hat and away from sight. Repeat this for the B side.

Lining Earflaps:
With B, CO 10 sts. R1: k9, p1. R2 (RS): Sl 1 kwise, M1, k8, M1, p1. R3: Sl1 kwise, k10, p1. R4 (RS): Sl 1 kwise, M1, k10, M1, p1. R5: Sl 1 kwise, k12, p1. R6 – 21: Repeat row 5 for a total of 11 ridges in the earflap. Do not BO. Break yarn leaving a long tail. Thread through the stitches, skipping the first stitch and weave back skipping the first stitch. Make another earflap exactly like the first.

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Finishing:
Now you are going to finish the hat!! You will need your crochet hook, scissors, knowledge of crochet, and patience!! Pick a side of the hat that you like best. After choosing the side you like best, pick a color for the crochet trim. After all these decisions, you can do the trim. Join the color of choice in the back of the hat by the earflap. The back is where there are 7 ridges, rather than 5. Half-double crochet across the back. When you get to the earflap, slip a lining earflap in between the two earflaps. This should give you three earflaps to work in. Halfdouble crochet these earflaps together through all three layers of earflaps, working three stitches in each corner of the earflap. Half-double crochet across the front. When you come to the last earflap, slip a lining earflap in and half-double crochet through three layers around the earflaps, working three stitches in each corner of the earflap. Join to the first stitch with a slip st. Break yarn and weave in tail so that the tail cannot be seen easily. Now you are going to add the braids on the hat. Cut 4 strands of A and 2 strands of B for each earflap. Each strand should be about 40’’ each. Take six (4 A and 2 B) strands and thread them through the six stitches on the bottom of the earflap. Thread them in this order: 2 A, 2 B, and 2 A. Fold the strands over and meet its own end (i.e. meet its head to its toes) and even them up. (So you should have a doubled strand of yarn for each of the six strands.) Braid these together until you reach desired length and knot the end. Trim the tails and you’re done!! Now repeat for other side! Now you are done with the hat!!! Go out and wear it for a while!! You have to break in this hat so the earflaps lie flat around your ears, but go out and show it off!!!

Copyright 2011 by Josh Ryks (SwordofaKnitter on Ravelry) You may sell items made from this pattern, but please do not sell the pattern and claim it as your own. Exodus 20:15. If you sell this item, please give credit where credit is due and sell your hat!!

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This is the chart for the hat. The Green is A, the blue is B. / = K2tog A, p2tog tbl B. \ = ssk A, p2tog B.
40 38 36 34 32 30 28 26 24 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 / / / / / / / / \ \ \ 35 \ 33 \ 31 \ 29 \ 27 \ 25 \ 23 39 37

Copyright 2011 by Josh Ryks (SwordofaKnitter on Ravelry) You may sell items made from this pattern, but please do not sell the pattern and claim it as your own. Exodus 20:15. If you sell this item, please give credit where credit is due and sell your hat!!

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This chart is for you to design your own hat chart!!
40 38 36 34 32 30 28 26 24 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 / / / / / / / / \ \ \ 35 \ 33 \ 31 \ 29 \ 27 \ 25 \ 23 39 37

This area is for the chart. Only design in rows 1-22. / = k2tog A, p2tog tbl B. \ = ssk A, p2tog B.

Copyright 2011 by Josh Ryks (SwordofaKnitter on Ravelry) You may sell items made from this pattern, but please do not sell the pattern and claim it as your own. Exodus 20:15. If you sell this item, please give credit where credit is due and sell your hat!

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Abbreviations :
K = knit P = purl SSK= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, slip 1 as if to knit, k2tog through the back loops K2tog = knit two stitches together M1 = Make one CO = cast on BO = bind off Sl = slip Kwise = knit wise (i.e. as if to knit) P2 tog tbl = purl two together through the back loop Rnd = round R = row

Copyright 2011 by Josh Ryks (SwordofaKnitter on Ravelry) You may sell items made from this pattern, but please do not sell the pattern and claim it as your own. Exodus 20:15. If you sell this item, please give credit where credit is due and sell your hat!

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