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Case Studies

Case Studies


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Despite the apprehensions of some analysts, many players began taking interest in the
Western women’s wear segment in India. Leading textile company Arvind Mills (the
market leader in the Indian denim market with brands such as Lee, Levis and
Newport) planned to enter into the women’s Western wear segment by early-2003
under its popular premium brand ‘Arrow.’ Darshan Mehta, President, Arvind Brands,
said, “In the US, there is a strong women’s line under Arrow, which we plan to launch
in India.”

Meanwhile, existing players were also working towards the success of their brands.
Raymond’s planned to extend its distribution chain to 100 exclusive Be outlets by
2003, mainly through the franchisee route. The company also considered the
possibility of integrating Be with the existing Raymond’s retail outlet network. Said
Singhania, “We already have 250 outlets for Raymond. Going down the line, we will
certainly look at integrating Raymond with Be.” Madura announced that it would
strengthen its retail network and record a turnover of Rs 500 million during 2002-
2005 through the Allen Solly women’s wear range.

Even private fashion labels were entering the business, attracted by the changing
market dynamics. Many leading fashion designers such as Ritu Beri and Puja Mehra


Marketing Management - I

Gupta (Puja) launched their range of women’s clothing through exclusive retail
outlets. These clothes were not exorbitantly priced like private fashion labels usually

Ritu Beri’s ‘Label’ collection offered Western wear, ethnic and party wear while
Puja’s Bizarre’s collection offered only Western wear. With four exclusive
showrooms in Delhi, Puja planned to expand to other cities. Puja had split Western
women’s wear into five categories, daywear, lounge wear, club wear, holiday wear
and party wear. Catering to all the above categories, Bizarre garments were priced
between Rs 500 to Rs 5000.

Though the projected growth rates were attractive, industry observers felt that there
was not enough room for so many players. Moreover, they were of the opinion that
companies would find it tough to figure out the perfect fit and offer the best dressing
solutions for working women. However, the players seemed to be confident about
their prospects as the number of working women was expected to increase in the
future. One important question needed to be answered: would the projected growth
rates of Western women’s wear turn into real figures?

Questions for Discussion:

1.Examine the circumstances that prompted Madura to launch women’s Western
wear in the Indian readymade women’s wear industry. Why do you think
companies primarily offered only men’s wear in the branded readymade apparel
segment in the country? What kind of cultural and social changes led to the
launch of Allen Solly Women’s Wear?

2.Critically analyze the product development, retailing and promotional strategies
adopted for Allen Solly women’s wear. What are the essential differences
between marketing readymade apparel to men and marketing readymade apparel
to women in a developing country? How would your answer differ if the target
customer base belonged to a developed country?

3.‘Madura has taken a major risk by extending a ‘pure men’s brand’ to the
women’s wear segment.’ Comment on this statement in light of observation that
men might switch over to a pure male brand in the future. Do you think Madura’s
move could erode Allen Solly’s brand equity?

4.With many players entering the women’s Western wear segment, do you think
Allen Solly would be able to grow as planned? As part of a team responsible for
managing the brand, help the company design a marketing strategy plan to attain
leadership position in the women’s western wear segment.

© ICFAI Center for Management Research. All rights reserved.


Allen Solly – Entering the Indian Women’s…

Exhibit I

Madura – The Company

Madura Garments began functioning as a subsidiary of Madura Coats Ltd. (Madura
Coats), in which Coats Viyella plc, Europe’s largest clothing supplier, held a
majority stake. Coats Viyella owned internationally established brands such as
Peter England, Louis Philippe, Van Heusen, Allen Solly and Byford, which were
marketed in India by Madura Coats. The company was the pioneer in the branded
readymade men’s wear market in India.

It launched the Louis Philippe range of shirts and trousers in 1989, which emerged
as the market leader in the super premium men’s wear category in India (the range
included silk printed shirts, trousers, blazers, ties, T-shirts, socks and other
accessories). In 1990, the Van Heusen range targeted at corporate executives was
launched. Van Heusen soon became India’s largest selling brand in the readymade
shirts segment. Allen Solly, which was launched in India in 1993, introduced the
concept of Friday Dressing in the country. Allen Solly also targeted corporate
executives and was positioned as ‘formal wear with a relaxed attitude.’

Encouraged by the success of Louis Philippe and Allen Solly, Madura launched
another brand, Peter England in 1997, which targeted the mid-segment The
company also entered into the knits segment with Byford. In 1998, it launched San
Frisco men’s trousers and trouser sub-brands Spiritus (of Louis Philippe) and
Elements (of Peter England). Through Elements, Madura entered the casuals
(trousers and jackets) segments. In December 1999, the Aditya Birla group textile
company, Indian Rayon, took over Madura.

Madura continued launching innovative styles under its premium brands
Uncrushables, Tencel, 7 day Fit and Citrus collection under Allen Solly;
Permapress, Stretch and Monet under Louis Philippe; and Durapress, Boardroom
Black, Flat Front Trousers, and Contemporary Creams under Van Heusen. Madura
also launched a highly innovative brand in the form of Van Heusen’s odor-free
range Durafresh. In the same year it also launched Louis Philippe’s Stretch

Madura Garments also concentrated on the export segment, and became a supplier
to global players such as Tommy Hilfiger and Marks & Spencer. To improve its
designs, Madura set up a full-fledged design studio at Bangalore headed by Stephen
King. In 2002, the company registered a turnover of Rs 3.5 billion and its export
revenues reached Rs 500 million.

Source: ICMR

Exhibit II

Traditional Clothes Worn By Indian Women


Source: www.google.com Source:www.neerus.com


Marketing Management - I

Exhibit III

The New Western Wear Offerings for Indian Women


Source: www.scullers.com Source: www.blonnet.com Source:


Exhibit IV

An Allen Solly Print Media Advertisement

Source: The Times of India, December 22, 2002.


Allen Solly – Entering the Indian Women’s…

Additional Readings & References:

1.Kurian Bobby, Womenswear to be Launched Under Indigo Nation...., Business Line,
April 4, 2000.

2.Apparel Allen Solly Brand to Dress Up Women as Well, www.textileoffice.com, June

1, 2001.

3.Raymond's Be: For the ‘Complete Woman,’ The Catalyst, July 31, 2001.

4.Madura Garments: Gets into Women’s Range, Business Line, December 18, 2001.

5.Chatterjee Purvita, Raymond Wants to Be: With it, Business Line, January 10, 2002.

6.Mary Vijaya S. B., When Sally met Solly, The Hindu, April 23, 2002.

7.Begg Yusuf, Hoping for a New Wardrobe, Business Standard, June 8, 2002.

8.Who's wearing the pants? Allen Solly Launches Womenswear, Business Line, August
23, 2002.

9.Jagannathan Venkatachari, All’s Well that Sells Well, www.domain-b.com, August 31,


10.Challapalli Sravanthi, The Woman in Allen Solly, The Catalyst, September 12, 2002.

11.Chandran Praveen, Rs 10-crore Fund for Allen Solly Women’s Wear, Business Line,
October 3, 2002.

12.Joseph Jaimon, Allen Solly: Now for Women, biz.yahoo.com, October 4, 2002.

13.Allen Solly Womenwear Targets Rs 10 cr, Economic Times, October 4, 2002.

14.It’s Friday Dressing for Women Now, Business Line, October 5, 2002.

15.Raymond May Take Premium Brand Global, Business Standard, October 5, 2002.

16.Raymond's First Be: in Mumbai, Business Line, October 12, 2002.






Hindustan Lever – Rural Marketing

“Consider the market, out of five lakh villages in India only one lakh have been

tapped so far.”

Irfan Khan, Corporate Communications Manager, Hindustan Lever Ltd., in

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