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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO CREATING A SUB-BRAND CASE 1: LEVII

STRAUSS &CO - XY DNG THNG HIU CON

GII THIU Ma xun nm 1985, Levis Strauss & Co (LS&Co.) trn ngp thnh cng trong th trng qun jeans. Chin dch ca cng ty, c tn gi l 501 Blues mang li sc sng mi cho cng ty sau nhiu tht bi khi m rng vo cc phn khc th trng trong nhng thp nin trc y. T tin vo ln sng ca s thnh cng 501, cng ty ln k hoch nhng bc hnh ng tip theo khi nhng nghin cu ch ra rng c s suy gim trong lng mua qun jeans ca nhng phn khc khch hng mc tiu : nhng ngi sinh sau th chin th 2. Tm li, khch hng ngun sng (bread & butter bnh m v b) ca cng ty trong 30 nm cui nhng thanh thiu nin Nam M - by gi 25 49 tui v ang ri khi th trng jeans mt t l ng bo ng. gi chn nhng khch hng ny, cng ty gii thiu loi qun ph thng c tn l Levis Dockers. L mt ci tn c rt gn, Dockers l mt trong nhng sn phm mi thnh cng ca thp nin 80 trong th trng thi trang. Ngi tiu dng a chung s thoi mi v tin li ca sn phm, lng mua Dockers tr thnh thng hiu ng gi 1 t USD vo nm 1993.

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO CREATING A SUB-BRAND Trong sut nhng nm 1990s, LS&Co ch vic thng thc s thnh cng hin tng ca n t thng hiu con Dockers. Thng hiu Dockers t c s tng trng doanh s bn k lc vo nm 1998 v tp ch Fortune c tnh vo nm 1999 rng 75% n ng M s hu mt cp qun Dockers, v trung bnh khch hng s hu 3,8 chic qun. Vo nm , s lng ngi s hu qun Dockers vt qu 40 triu. Tuy nhin, cng ty cng lu rng vo thi im khch hng tr bt u t a thch qun Dockers, h cho rng n dnh cho b ca h. Vo cui nhng nm 1990, Levis Strauss pht trin mt chin dch qung co mi v gii thiu thng hi u con Dockers . Doanh s bn Dockers vn duy tr mc trn 1t USD trong nm 2000, nhng s tng trng doanh s th chm chp. Nhiu ngi nghi ng v s tng trng di hn ca thng hiu con Dockers. Liu rng Dockers c p ng c th hiu ang thay i v hng n nhng tiu chun thi trang mi ca khch hng c khng? Thng hiu c th duy tr c lng khch hng trung thnh trong khi vn thch ng vi nhng phong cch mi c hay khng? NGUN GC CA LEVIS STRAUSS&CO V LEVIS 501 JEANS Vo nm 1849, mt ngi nhp c ngho tn l Levi Strauss t chn n San Francisco, California, theo li mi ca ngi anh r, David Stern, ng ch ca ca hng git l. Ca hng git l ny sau ny c bit n vi ci tn Levi Strauss &Co. Strauss nhanh chng pht hin ra rng nhng ngi th o vng ang tm kim mt loi qun bn c th thch ng vi li sng g gh ca h. p ng nhu cu ny, Strauss thit k mt loi qun t cht liu ging nh vi bc mu nu sm chic qun jeans u tin ca th gii. Chic qun ca Levis nhanh chng tr thnh mt phn khng th thiu trong ng phc ca nhng ngi th m. Strauss gi chic qun ny l waist high overalls. Nhng ngi th m gi chng l qun ca Levis .

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND Chng bao lu Strauss khm ph ra mt loi cht liu cng cp hn c tn gi l Nimes, lm Nimes, Php, may qun. Tn cht liu sau ny c rt gn thnh denim, v thuc nhum mu chm c thm vo lm cho chic qun jeans c mu xanh da tri. Nm 1873, inh tn c thm vo lm cho chic ti qun mnh m hn, m trc y nhng chic ti qun ny khng th chu ng c trng lng ca nhng cc qung vng ca nhng ngi th m. Nm 1890 , s ni ting ca qun jeans LS&Co. v nhng sn phm khc lan rng, v bt kp vi s lan rng ca dng sn phm mi, LS&Co. hnh thnh danh mc sn phm mi. Qun jeans Levis c nh du vi con s 501 v con s 501 c xem nh l tn thng hiu. Doanh s bn ca qun jeans 501 ca Levis tng mnh trong sut nhng nm 1990. Trong sut nhng nm 1930, s ni ting ca qun jeans Levis m chi khi nhng b phim jeans mu Chu u bt u tn dng chic qun xanh, to

nn huyn thoi Chu u ca 501. Qun jeans ca Levis tr thnh mt sn phm c gi tr trong sut chin tranh th gii th 2, khi m chnh ph tuyn b chng nh l mt thnh phn khng th thiu i vi nhng ngi lnh. Vo nhng nm 1950, s xut hin ca nhng thn tng tui teen James Dean v Marrlon Brando mc qun jeans trong b phim Rebel Without a Cause v The Wild Ones, lm say m mt th h nhng ngi sinh sau th chin th 2. LS&Co ngng ton b hot ng git i v tp trung hon ton vo vic bn sn phm mi ny cho th h mi ny th h c hng triu khch hng tim nng. Nm 1959, doanh s bn ca Levis tng cng l 46 triu USD. Cn st tnh yu qun jeans Levis tip tc cho n nhng nm 1960 khi m sinh vin bt u mc qun jeans 501 nh l mt hnh thc th hin bn thn. Cng lc vi l hi Rock Woodstock nm 1969, qun jeans Levis l thi trang khng th thiu ca th h nhng ngi sinh sau th chin 2. Chic qun jeans tr thnh biu

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND tng ca s t do, s khm ph, v s c lp. Qun jeans 501 ca Levis l mt biu tng, v ci tn Levis ng ngha vi qun jeans. A DNG HO: 1970 1984 Gn 30 nm sau chin tranh th gii th 2, LS&Co phc v cho th trng qun jeans khng y1. Sut nhng nm 1950 v 1960, cng ty tng gp i doanh s bn mi 3-4 nm. Cui nm 1960, sn phm ca cng ty bao gm jeans, qun nhung k (cords), slacks v trang phc nam, cng nh hng lot sn phm khc dnh cho ph n v tr em. Nm 1968, mt b phn mi chuyn v trang phc tr, th thao v trang sc ph kin c thnh lp. n v marketing Levis cho Gals m rng thnh b phn trang phc n. Hn na, Levi Strauss International c thnh lp nh l mt chi nhnh, to iu kin cho cng ty nh cuc vi huyn thoi hnh nh All- American vi khch hng ngoi quc. Vi tt c hot ng tng trng ny, doanh s bn ton cu ca LS&Co nm 1969 tng cng l 251 triu USD. S m rng nhanh chng i hi cn nhiu vn u t hn. Nm 1971, cng ty ln sn vi gi tr l 47,5 USD mi c phiu. Doanh s bn ca LS&Co tip tc tng chng mt khi m th h sinh sau th chin th 2 vo i hc. Nm 1975, doanh s bn t n 1 t USD, v tng ln 2 t nm 1979. Trong sut thi gian ny, sn phm dn u ca cng ty jeans 501 l sn phm c doanh s bn top u, v LS&Co tip tc nm gi gn nh l 1/3 th trng qun jeans M. S sn xut c m rng v tip tc p ng nhu cu. Trong nhng nm u 1980, LS&Co theo ui chin lc mi bn cnh dng qun jeans ct li cng ty cn m rng sang cc dng sn phm khng jeans khc. Chng ti s khng qun ngi bn nhy cng Robert Haas, ph ch tch gii thch, v chu gi my i ca nh sng lp ni rng Chng ti mun ti nhn mnh

Bottomless

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO CREATING A SUB-BRAND vo s t nhin ca chng ti. Nhng chng ti mun mang nhng sn phm bn sn vo ngnh cng nghip, lm cho chng th v hn LS&Co gii thiu sn phm mi, p ng nhu cu ca lng ln cc gia nh. Nhiu trong s ny n t nhng b phn ng thi ca cng ty. Dng sn phm mi bao gm qun jeans vi bng cho v nhung k cho c n ng, ph n v tr em. Action Suits v Tailored Classic blazers v slacks cho nhng ngi n ng chuyn nghip v Activewear cho nhng ngi chi th thao trt vn, tennis v nhng ngi tham gia cc hot ng ngoi tri. Nhiu kch c, mu sc v kiu dng, cng ty cung cp hng ngn loi qun pants, vy, vest, smi, o cc tay, qun i v o cnh c c qun jeans v o cho ph n mang thai. Mt chin lc lin minh c thc hin nhm tm kim s tng trng hn na. S lin minh nm 1979 ca LS&Co vi Koracorp Industries, mt nh sn xut o qun California ng gi 185 triu USD, ngay lp tc lm tng gp i doanh s bn trang phc n ca Levis. Koracorp bao gm: Koret ca trang phc n Bc M, m Byer Rolnick, trang phc nam Oxford v mt b phn trang phc tr em Chu u. Mt lin minh khc ca Levis bao gm m Resistol, qun o cng nhn Rainfair v trang phc chy Frank Shorter. Cng ty cng k nhiu hp ng c quyn cho cc sn phm bao gm giy thng dng v qun i mang thng hiu Levis cng nh k hp ng c quyn vi cc nh thit k, bao gm Perry Ellis America, Alexander Julian v Andrew Fezza, nhm m rng hot ng kinh doanh ca LS&Co sang nhng phn khc thi trang hn. Nhng nhn hiu thi trang mi b phn th thao nam David Hunter v b su tp trang phc ph thng nam Roegiers Tourage SSE l nhng dng sn phm duy nht khng mang logo Levis. Kt qu ca nhng hot ng lin minh ny, LS&Co s hu nhng doanh nghip cung cp nhng sn phm p ng hu ht phong cch thi trang. CHIN LC TRUYN THNG CA LEVI STRAUSS & CO.

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND Theo lch s, nhng qung co ca LS&Co u tp trung vo cht lng ca qun jeans Levis dnh cho nam. Nhng mu qung co, d l qung co TV hay qung co in n, u nhn mnh vo cht lng, sc bn, v tnh v hn ca qun jeans Levis dnh cho nam. Nhng ngi th o vng Chu u thng tr tinh thn chung ca nhng mu qung co. Tuy nhin, bt u t nhng nm 1970, LS&Co thay i chin lc qung co ca n nhm phn nh s thay i ca cng ty. LS&Co thay th rng ri ci hn min Ty truyn thng ca n, hnh nh nhng ngi th m hay ngi thm d qung bng hnh nh hp thi hn, phiu diu hn ca mt ngy. Vi s gip ca chi nhnh qung co, Foote, Cone & Belding, cng ty lm quen vi k thut sng to thay th s tht (alteration of reality) v pht trin mt chui qung co c s dng ng vt vi vic s dng nhng k xo ho. Trong n lc by tn thng hiu Levis nhng qung co ny nhn mnh vo tnh phong ph, a dng v hp thi trang ca nhng sn phm khng jeans ca Levis. Nhng dng nhn qung cao bao gm Levis dont have to be blue they just have to be good (Levis khng phi l mu xanh chng phi tt); Quality never go out of style (Cht lng khng bao gi tch khi phong cch v We put a little blue jean in everything we make (Chng ti thm 1 t jean xanh vo mi th chng ti to ra). Cng lc , ngay c khi h a dng ho, cng ty cng mun chc chn rng nhng ngi n ng M hiu rng LS&Co vn bn qun jeans truyn thng nh l trang phc lm vic cho n ng, vn duy tr s nhn mnh truyn thng vo qun jeans nh l mt loi qun cht lng, c gi tr cao cho nhng ngi n ng M lm vic vt v. Khi LS&Co nhn din c cu trc a b phn ca mnh vo u nhng nm 1980, mi b phn chu trch nhim cho chin lc qung co ca chnh mnh. Kt qu l, cu trc ca cng ty dch chuyn thnh nhng nhm tch bit mc tiu thay v bn sn phm qua nhiu b phn. Nhng mu qung co c xy dng qung co

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND cho ngi tiu dng mt cch ng thi, v nhng dng sn phm thng c qung co trong cng 1 mu qung co. Nhiu mu qung co jeans cho nam nhm mc tiu vo qun jeans Levis v nhn mnh vo s a dng ca mu sc v kiu dng. Nhng mu qung co ny thot khi hnh nh phiu diu ca nhng thp nin 70 v chuyn sang cm gac cng ngh cao, k nguyn khng gian. Chic qun vi bng cho tip tc nhn mnh vo cht lng ca qun jeans Levis trong n lc hng n nhng ngi n ng lm vic vt v. Mc d qung co ca LS&Co ban u tp trung vo sn phm cho n ng, s m rng ca nhng dng sn phm dnh cho ph n v thanh nin khin LS&Co u t hng la vo qung co nhng dng sn phm ny. qung co sn phm mi, LS&Co m rng ngn sch qung co t u nm 1978. Nm 1982, ngn sch qung co tng ln 100 triu USD. Hn na, phi thc qung co thay i ng k, vi s m rng ca phng tin truyn thng tng t 6.4 triu USD nm 1976 ln 19,7 triu USD nm 1978 v 28.7 triu USD ln 1980. TV l mt phng tin qung co tng mnh t 1.8 triuj USD nm 1976 ln 15 triu USD nm 1980. TR GC LI VI NGUN

Nhng n lc a dng ca LS&Co mang li kt qu. Tuy nhin, bt u t nm 1980, LS&Co suy gim doanh s. T nm 1980 n nm 1982, doanh s bn ca LS&Co gim 10% v thu nhp rng gim 76%. Mc d lng bn v doanh thu hi phc nm 1983 nh n lc m rng phn phi bn l n Sear v J.C.Penny, h li gim vo nm 1984. Nhiu dng sn phm khng jeans ca cng ty gp phi s cnh tranh mnh m. C mt mi bn tm l s gim mnh ca nhng sn phm khng jeans c th nh hng n hnh nh ca qun jeans. Ban qun tr LS&Co nhn thy rng trong khi thng hiu Levis l ti sn mnh nht ca cng ty, vi nhng sn phm khc n c nhn din mt cch gii hn. Khi doanh s gim, cng ty bt u tnh n

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND chuyn m rng phn phi vo cc nh bn l nh Wal mart v K Mart. Robert Haas m t tnh hnh ny nh sau: Chng ta a dng ho qu nhiu. Chng ta sn xut mi th t m n o qun nhng chng ta khng cn ng vng cho mi th. Chng ta mt s tp trung vo sn phm ct li ca cng ty. Mi quan h vi cc nh bn l i n im th ch Vo thng 10 nm 1984, Tom Tusher, ch tich ca Levi Strauss International, c ct nhc ln lm Executive Vice president v Chief Operating Officer. Vo cuc hp qun tr m quan im ca ng c thng bo, ng thc thi quyt nh u tin ca mnh LS&Co s khng m rng phn phi na, s tp trung vo sn phm ct li v ti xy dng mi quan h v cc i tc cc ca hng kinh doanh trc y. Do , di s dn dt ca Tusher, cng ty nh: 1) Tng cng mi quan h vi cc nh bn l v 2) Cng c li ci tn v hnh nh thong hiu Levis cng nh doanh s bn. i vi Tusher v Haas, mc tiu chnh ca LS&Co l bo tn nhng gi tr v nhng truyn thng quan trng ca cng ty. t c nhng mc tiu ny, LS&Co d nh b nhng sn phm khng ct li v ti nhn mnh vo qun jeans v nhng dng sn phm qun nhung k, l nhng sn phm mang li hn 2/3 doanh thu cho cng ty, l im ta (rng ct) chnh ca cng ty trong nhng nm 1990 v tng trng cng ty t y thng qua nhng hiu qu ln hn, am hiu th trng hn v thng qua s tit kim chi ph. NHN MNH HNH NH THNG HIU Tip theo, LS&Co tp trung vo nhng n lc Marketing nhm

lm mnh thng hiu Levis. Vo gia nm 1985, sau khi mt 114 triu USD, cng ty kim v li 1,65 t USD mt mc li nhun ln nht t trc ti nay. Ch dn chin lc ca

Tusher vo cui nm 1984 quay ngc li tp trung vo sn phm ct li bt u Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng 8

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND c thc thi. Gn kt vi sn phm ct li v l mt phng tin tr n, nhng b phn kinh doanh khng ct li b bn i hoc khng tip tc hot ng na. Rainfair nm 1984, Resistol nm 1985, Koret of North American Oxxford v Frank Shorter nm 1987. LS&Co chm dt hp ng c quyn vi Perry Ell America v Andrew Fezza nm 1986. Cng ty ng ca 40 nh my, gim nhn cng t 48000 ngi nm 1980 xung cn 36000 nm 1986. LS&Co cn ti sinh nhng sn phm ct li ca cng ty. Vo lc ny, cng ty ang phi i mt vi s cnh tranh gay gt v s dch chuyn ca nhng xu hng thi trang. Vo u nhng nm 1980, c s sinh si ny n ca nhng sn phm mi trong th trng qun o. Trong th trng qun jeans, s cnh tranh tng cao trong khi nhu cu khch hng th bt u gim. Hnh nh thnh ph ca qun jeans Lee v hnh nh min ty ca qun jeans Wrangler, vi nhng sn phm gi cao, hnh nh thi trang ca qun jeans Calvin Klein, Bill Blass v Gloria Vanderbilt l nhng e do n lng trung thnh ca khch hng dnh cho qun jeans 501. Tuy nhin, LS&Co nhn thy s tht bi doanh s ca h trong vic p ng mong i ca min ng M, c bit l nhng khu vc dn c ng c v th trng mc tiu l nhng ngi t 18 24 tui. S st gim bt ng trong doanh s mt phn l do s tht bi ca cng ty trong vic pht trin sn phm p ng s thay i trong th trng qun jeans. 501 BLUES Chin dch qung co 501 Blues 36 triu USD xy dng mt hnh nh cho qun jeans 501 cng nh trit l v nhng gi tr ca LS&Co. Qung co tp trung vo s khc nhau ca nhng con ngi tht l chnh h bng cch mc 501 nh l mt phn ca cuc sng hng ngy. Qung co 501 nhn mnh vo tnh duy nht ca Levis, co li va vn v quan im nt bay v dng nhc blues vi li ht t do. Hy vng rng chin dch s nhc nh khch hng hin ti v tnh duy nht ca 501

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO CREATING A SUB-BRAND v h cm thy thoi mi nh th no khi mc 501 hng ngy c gc l tnh v cm xc cng nh gii thiu sn phm ch o ca cng ty n th h ngi trng thnh mi. Chin dch dnh phn thng gip doanh s bn ca 501 tng ln gp i nm 1985, mc d s tht l doanh s bn loi bng cho trn th trng M gim. THCH MI THC

u nm 1986, ban qun tr t tin rng h ang i ng hng. Chin dch jeans 501 mang li s thnh cng trong phn khc th trng nhng ngi tr thnh ph t 12 -24 tui. Khng ch doanh s bn ci thin, chin dch cn mang thng hiu Levis tr v vi nhng gi tr ct li ca n. K hoch vn c tip tc vi nhng chin dch Blues cho nhng nm tip theo. Ngn sch qung co nm 1986 l 70 triu USD. B phn nghin cu trang phc nam ch ra mt s tht l: nhng ngi n ng M t 25 -49 tui trung bnh mua 1 2 chic qun jeans hng nm, so vi con s trung bnh 4 5 chic ca phn khc 15 -24 tui. Nm 1980, c 36.8 triu n ng M t 25 49 tui; n nm 1990, con s ny tng ln 47,5 triu, gn bng dn s nhng ngi trng thnh. Mc d th h nhng ngi sinh sau th chn 2 ln ln cng vi qun jeans Levis v trung thnh tuyt i vi thng hiu Levis, by gi h bt u tm kim nhng loi qun pant mi. Bi v th h nhng ngi sinh sau th chin 2 t xem mnh l khc bit vi th h cha m h trong khu v v li sng, h khng mun chic qun jeans nh l th c xem l dnh cho con nt, h mun ph cch v thot khi truyn thng. Trong khi nhng ngi n ng ny ng tui, nhng h vn mun nng ng , thi trang v thoi mi. Ty chay cht liu nhn to trong qu kh, h tm kim nhng cht liu thin nhin. Vo quy nh cho cng thi im , trong mi trng lm vic trnh trng truyn thng, nhiu cng ty bt u ni lng

php nhn vin mc trang phc thoi mi hn khi i lm.

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND V nhng l do , th h nhng ngi sinh sau th chin 2 cn mt loi qun a dng v thoi mi thch hp cho c lm vic v gii tr. Nhng nhu cu ny c phn nh trong s thay i nhn mnh vo 100% cotton trong lot sn phm dnh cho nam cc ca hng bn l. PHT TRIN MARKETING CHIN LC

LS&Co nhn thy rng th trng qun pant em n mt c hi khng l. Gia nm 1981 -1985, doanh s bn l qun jeans gim 11% trong khi doanh s slacks tng 19%. Slacks tng t 33% nm 1981 ln 40% nm 1985, v xu hng tng vn tip tc. Gia ma h nm 1985 v ma h nm 1986, doanh s slacks tng ln 20%. Tuy nhin, s phn on thng hiu r rang hn trong hng mc slacks so vi jeans, v khng c mt thng hiu dn u. LS&Co bc vo th trng slacks t gia nhng nm 1950s ( trong n lc a dng ho sn phm khng jeans u tin ca n), nhng 3 thng hiu slacks dn u (Levis, Hagg v Farah) chim 25% th trng M, v 5 thng hiu dn u ch chim 35% th trng. Ngc li, 3 thng hiu jeans dn u (Levis, Wrangler v Lee) chim 66% th trng v 5 thng hiu dn u chim ti 75% th trng. Hn na, cht liu thin nhin thay th hon ton cht liu 100% polyester. Nhng nh nghin cu ch ra rng nhng chic qun slacks 100% polyester chim 33% doanh s bn nm 1986 gim t 59% nm 1980 so vi 50% i vi loi 100% cotton cotton. v pha hiu ca th h

LS&Co n lc duy tr s trung thnh thng

qun jeans Levis. Nhng ngi n ng l ngun thnh cng ca cng ty v l nhng ngi dn dt xu hng thi trang trong sut 20 nm. Cng ty hy vng rng thu ht c nhng khch hng ca Main Floor Men cng nh nhng khch hng tr, mi. c nh gi l thng hiu dn o trong th trng qun jeans cho nam, LS&Co hy

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND vng rng s tp trung vo yu t nhn khu hc v khu v khch hng ang thay i bng 2 cch l gii thiu dng slacks mi v dng jeans ti phong cch mi. GII THIU NEW CASUALS Chi Siegel; nhnh Menswear-c ch o bi ch tch Robert

Steve Schwartzbach, ph ch tch phng kinh doanh; Steve tch phng

Goldstein, gim c marketing, v Jerry Maschino, ph ch

bn hng-trc tin h quyt nh th vn may vo th trng qun clacks bi v cc dng sn phm hin ti khng p ng nhu cu ca cc khch hng nam gii tui t 25-49. LS&Co. nhn din c thch thc ca n nh sau: tng th phn thng hiu qun clacks ca chng ta, Levis phi tn cng th trng v ng h xu hng ng ca sn phm mi to nn v tr dn u trn mt th trng ang pht trin v khng c ngi lm ch th trng ny. Hnh nh ca thng hiu Levis c c t vic kinh doanh qun jeans ca n c cho l gn nh ng gp mt cch c gii hn n hnh nh hin ti ca sn phm qun clacks-c th l, qun clacks ca Levis c xem l tr nn hin i hn, t bo th v thng thng hn so vi cc loi qun clacks khc. Tuy nhin, dng sn phm Action Clacks ca n (c lm 100% t polyester) khng hng n s thay i v cht liu vi ca qun clacks trn th trng v n cng khng phn nh nhng gi tr ct li m chin dch qung co ca loi qun jeans 501 c thit lp mt cch thnh cng thi im hin ti. Nh mt thnh vin thuc ban qun tr ca LS&Co. gii thch, chng ta thy rng dng nh chng ta c sc mnh t thng hiu Levis l mt sc mnh y ngha v mang li cho n tt c s thn b tr nn mang tnh hnh nh trn thng trng. Nhng chng ta cng nhn ra rng chng ta cn phi thc hin phn on th trng da trn mt quan im marketing/qung co bi v c qu nhiu loi th trng. LS&Co. cn mt sn phm mi m sn phm to ra s thc y khch hng gi vng tnh nhng quyn

Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND thng hiu, nhng c s khc bit t sn phm m h bn trc . C l vi mt s nghi ngi, LS&Co. ang chuyn sang qun jeans ln na. Tuy nhin trong trng hp ny, vic nhn mnh li vic kinh doanh qun jeans ca n c u tin hn, cng ty xc nh ng thi tip tc tp trung sc mnh ct li vo qun jeans. nm bt c nhu cu khch hng, v thit lp LS&Co nh nh dn u th trng, i Menswear tin tng rng to mt n tng mnh l cn thit. H quyt nh thit k mt loi sn phm mi c tn gi thng phc mi dng sn phm ny s to ra tro lu qun ty lch s hn qun jeans v khng qu tha mi nh qun dress slacks cho phi mi ru. Vi LS&Co. new casual tha mn mt nhu cu khng c lp y trn th trng qun ty cho nam. Chng c thit k li cun nhng ngi c sinh ra sau chin tranh th gii th 2 c nhu cu v thi trang: thng phc v tha mi, vn phong cch, qun ty thch hp cho mt s dp khc v tt nhin, n cng ph hp ti cuc hp cp cao ca LS&Co. Thit k ca qun ty c in l 100% t cotton, to ra cc np gp v vi c th git c vi thit k hnh chiu ngc-rng pha trn sau hp li ng chn-ch c mt loi mu. LS&Co. hi vng rng sn phm thng phc mi ca n l dng sn phm u tin vi ng chn rng, loi qun thon gia tt hn qun o th thao v c mt ti hu khp cc ca hng chnh, n cho nhng ng mi ru mt cch i hi t ci qun rng v khng va vn. LS&Co. mun loi qun mi ny tr thnh tiu chun cho loi qun thng phc mi ny. Trong kt qu ca s c gng c vic loi qun mi ny c th ph hp c v c th chi tr vi khch hng, n c nh gi va phi vi gi bn l l 32$. THNG CASUALS HIU HO NEW

gn thng hiu cho dng sn phm qun ty thng phc mi, i Menswear cn chn mt ci tn, logo v nhiu thnh phn quan trng khc cho thng hiu. tn cng nhng ngi mua hng sinh sau chin

tranh th gii th 2, Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng 13

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND tng ny l kt hp sn phm vi mt th ng ghi nh, ng k thng mi mt ci tn m n l duy nht, lu bn, c th gn logo trn o qun v mt ci ti lp lnh nhiu mu. i bit rng h khng th ch gi sn phm mi ny l qun ty Levis. Chin lc marketing ca cng ty rt thnh cng vi chin dch qun jeans 501 nh ngha Levis nh mt loi qun jeans. Khng bit lm sao ci tn ny phi xc lp ra c tnh c lp ca n v to nn n by cho ci tn thng hiu Levis theo cch vn gi vng s kt ni vi tn gi Levis v ti sn k tha, nhng khng lm gim gi tr tnh nng ct ca qun jeans Levis. Vo thi im m i ang d tnh mt ci tn cho loi qun ty mi ny, Sue Kilgore, mt ngi bn hng Menswear tr v t chuyn i ti Nht Bn vi mt ci qun ty vi cho c bn bi Levi Strauss Nht c t tn l Levi Docker Pants. Nhm LS&Co. ca Nht ly ci tn lng ny t mt loi qun ty c bn Argentina. C Nht v Argentina nh v cho sn phm ny n cc khch hng tr tui ca h, nhng ch vi s thnh cng gii hn. i thch tn Docker nhng h bit ngi M khng bao gi ni Levi Docker Pants. Cu hi t ra l lm th no lm ngn i tn ny ngi M c th d gi tn. Cui cng, i quyt nh thm mt ch s sau t Docker v lm ngn thnh tn Levis Dockers. i thch tn Dockers bi v, mc du n mang mt cht ngha v hng hi nhng hu ht n c xem l mang tnh trung lp, cng ty c th a vo ngi nghe mc tiu ca n. Logo c chn c pha trn gia logo ca Nht v Argentine da trn nhng s din t ca h v qun ty, v km theo nhng hnh nh mang tnh bay bng v nhng ngun ng tin cy. kt hp cht lng vi qung co-c xem l cha kha hp thnh t xc lp nhn thc thng hiu-n l yu t cn thit hp nht tn thng hiu vi biu tng ca n. Lm vic vi tr s cng ty San Francisco, Goldstein v i Menswear lm ph hp logo ca Dockers v cc phn hnh tng thch hp vi

Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng

14

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO CREATING A SUB-BRAND ph thm. Chic ti lp lnh, thu ht t pha sau ca mi ci qun ty, gm c mt ph n ngi ang bt u mt chuyn i bng mt b cho nam lch s nhng tt c s ch tp trung vo s tha mi, n mc mt cch bnh thng ca nhng ngi n ng tr ng trn bn tu. Cui cng, thit lp tnh gim bt lin tng vi tn Levis, tn lng Levis c kt hp cht ch vi logo bay bng ca Dockers. GII THIU NEW CASUALS N NH BN L Qun ty Levis Dockers c bn th trng bn l nh mt tuyn b thi trang ln-mt s la chn cho qun jeans-v mang ng lc cho loi thng phc mi. Da trn s thay i v nhn khu hc v s lng nam gii ca M, d n thng phc mica Levis lm tng doanh s t 28% ln 34% vo nm 1989, vi dress clacks hin i tng t 6% ln 28% v dress clacks truyn thng gim t 38% xung 21% trong cng k. Trong n lc xc lp nn dng thng phc mi Dockers, LS&Co. tp trung phn phi vo cc ca hng v cc chui ni m phn ln nam gii tui t 25-49 thng i mua sm v l ni m 1/3 s qun slacks c bn. Cng ty lm vic gn gi vi cc nh bn l, t J.C.Penney n Bloomingdales, to ra s kch thch v s ng h cho loi qun ty mi ny. Cng ty cng tip cn cc nh bn l nc ngoibao gm mt s ca hng bch ha v ca hng c bit nhng ngi m trc y thu hp kinh doanh vi LS&Co. Vo nhng nm 1980- vi mt s gii thiu rng ri, bn hng qua brochure v cc sch v mu vi. H cung cp s gip bn hng theo nhiu cch khc bao gm cc cng c bn hng nh cung cp mt bn ch ng cho marketing bn l cn bn, cc chng trnh qung co v chng trnh c ng bn hng. Thm vo , cng ty cng a ra s gip b sung v ti chnh (RAP) cho qung co v cc hot ng c ng nng cao tm quan trng ca hnh nh ca hng. Qu ti tr ny tn ti gip cc nh bn l vi tng s tin 1,6 t vo nm

1987. Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng 15

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND Mt phn quyt nh marketing ca cng ty n lc tp trung s ch vo dng sn phm mi l thnh lp cc ca hng ca Dockers gii hn khu vc dnh cho nam gii cc ca hng ln. Cc ca hng truyn thng ln dnh cho nam ang thay i, n ang gim i s nhn mnh vo dress clacks v chuyn sang cc sn phm lm t 100% cotton v cotton pha trn nhm vo cc khch hng tr tui hn. Xu hng ny c mong i tip tc phn on th trng khch hng c sinh sau chin tranh th gii th 2 tng ln nh mt t l phn trm trong s khch hng chnh. Nhng ngi bn l ang a trong k thut bn hng thu ht nht. Nhn ra c nhng xu hng trn, LS&Co. gii thiu ca hng u tin vi khi nim ca hng c khu vc chnh cho nam gii. Mt th nghim c xy dng trng by ti MAGIC (Mens Apparel Guild in California), mt gii php trng by bn hng, gii thiu qun thng phc Dockers n cc nh bn l. Qun Dockers c bn trong cc ca hng nhm to ra s thn mt, c th tip cn mi trng, logo mang tnh th thao ca Dockers c trng by mt cch ni bt, kt ni qung co khch hng vi im bn v cc poster v sp t th d nht c th. vt c gn c nh v nhng ci bn c t cho php trng by qun ty chng ln nhau ging vi kinh nghim t vic bn qun jeans v d cm nhn s khc bit vi dy qun slacks c treo ln. Th nghim minh chng rt thnh cng, em li gp i doanh s cho qun ty m ch cn bm theo khun mu. Trong cc ca hng ni m cc shop khng c kh nng do khng c khng gian hoc hn hp v ti chnh, LS&Co. c k hoch lp chng thnh im trng by. nh v sn phm ca cng ty v chin lc marketing c kh nng vt qu s sn sng ban u ca cc ca hng bn l, v ch yu em li s ch cao ca cc chng trnh c ng thu ht. Cng ty a ra mt cch thnh cng Levis Dockers trn tt c 50 ca hng ca Menswear Division v 50 ca hng khc ngoi nc. Cc ra nhng sng to

Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng

16

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND nh bn l ni Levis Dockers nh ngi dn u trong loi thng phc mi v vt qua cc i th cnh tranh ban u ca n trong th trng qun ty, bao gm Gallery bi Haggar, Savane bi Farah, M bi Bugle Boy v Tivoli bi American Trouser. Vi nh bn l i sau chng, Menswear Division o ngc s ch ca n ln s pht trin ca chng trnh truyn thng hiu qu tp trung vo khch hng. A DOCKERS HNG N VI KHCH

Rt nhanh chng c th thy r Menswear Division ca LS&Co. rng thnh lp nn Levis Dockers nh mt thng hiu chnh trong sn phm thng phc th thao cho nam gii th cc n lc marketing tng s nhn thc ca khch hng vt qu ngun lc sn c ca Menswear Division. to ra th trng c hi cho qun ty thng phc, Menswear Division tin rng chng trnh marketing tc ng mnh vo khch hng s tng tc pht trin ca dng Dockers v mang li s ng h ca khch hng m chng c th tc ng mt cch tch cc ln nhn thc v s quan tm ca h. Qun l ca i Menswear Division thuyt phc Tom Tusher, ngi thit lp nn mt qung co dnh ring cho cc c hi marketing c bit, u t vo cc n lc marketing a Dockers thnh sn phm thu c mc li tc cn thit t u t ca cng ty trong gii hn thu nhp, li nhun v quyn s hu thng hiu di hn ch yu n t phn on nhng ngi c sinh sau chin tranh th gii th 2. Vi ton b t chc LS&Co. pha sau, Menswear Division bt u thnh lp mt v tr c quyn r rng cho Levis Dockers trn th trng dnh cho nam gii. CHIN CO LC QUNG

chng c xem nh l mt s thay th khim tn cho trang phc truyn thng hu ht cc dp th thch thc qung co l xy dng sn phm v nhn thc thng hiu cho Levis Dockers. V vy, qung co phi t c 2 mc tiu: 1) bi v Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng 17

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND khng c thut ng khch hng cho loi qun ty Dockers nn qung co phi rn luyn v n ngi nghe rng n l mt sn phm mi v to ra s nhn thc thng hiu; v 2) mt hnh nh cho sn phm mi phi c to ra a v tr lin tng thng hiu Levis nhng cng ra tnh c lp hoc khong cch lm ni bt tnh khc bit vn c ca sn phm. Ngi nghe mc tiu cho qung co ca h c xc nh v nhn khu hc l nam gii l nhn vin vn phng gia tui 25-49 nhng ngi khu vc trung tm nc M. Nhng ngi nam gii l khch hng mc tiu ny ang m rng t qun o ca h c nhiu qun o thng phc c lm t si bng t nhin hn m chng thch hp cho mt s dp khng trang trng. Lm vic vi Mike Koelker ca Foote, Cone & Belding, LS&Co. qun l mt s nhm tp trung vi nhng ngi n ng trong th trng mc tiu ca h. Nhng ngi n ng c hng dn miu t bc tranh nhng tnh hung rnh ri khc nhau v c hi chn mt bc tranh c miu t ng nht vi nhng khi h thy tha mi v th gin nht. Hu ht nhng quang cnh chung c chn bao gm mt ngi n ng ngi trn nh i mt mnh, hai ngi n ng ang i b cng nhau trn sn golf v mt nhm n ng ang nm tay nhau v ang ci trn bi bin. Mc d rt nhiu nam gii ni rng h khng c khuynh hng tham gia vo cc s kin mt khi h gi i hay kt hn, nhng h vn ngh hay ni mt cch yu mn v chng. Da trn nhng kt qu m nhm tp trung v mc tiu marketing cho Dockers, Koelker v LS&Co. quyt nh rng cc qung co s to ra mt hnh nh cho thng hiu da trn mt s li cun v cm xc. Cc qung co l to ra mt c nhn, s li cun v hnh nh c lin quan vi thng hiu nng Dockers ln hn tt c nhng s thay th c th khc. Da vo khch hng mc tiu, quan im ca qung co cn mang tnh ng thi. iu ny l quan trng tuy nhin chc chn

Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng

18

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND rng phong cch ca qun ty c lnh hi nh l khng chu nh hng ca thi gian v tnh kinh in. Nhng ngi n ng mc Dockers tr nn thc t, gn gi v thu ht nhng khng mang kiu cch hin i. Nhng qung co ch ra rng Dockers l loi qun o ph hp cho nhiu dp khc nhau-khi i lm v khi cui tun. H mun Dockers c nhn nh mt cch tr nn tha mi v bnh thng trong mi khung cnh. V vy, cc qung co nhn mnh tnh x hi ca nam gii mc qun ty. N cng quan trng cho cc qung co chuyn ti cht lng cao ca qun ty Dockers v gi c s kt ni vi ci tn thng hiu Levis v di sn ca n. Tn Levis gip cho qun ty mi to ra tnh tin cy v tn dng s trung thnh khng khip ca nhm khch hng mc tiu ca thng hiu Levis. Cui cng, cc qung co s dng nhng qung co da trn tnh hung thc t vi phong cch v hnh nh bt ngun t qung co ca 501 Blues m LS&Co. mun tip tc thc hin. Cc nh qun tr hi vng rng nam gii s xem qung co ca Dockers v t ni vi chnh mnh rng: ti thch nhng chng trai ny, h cng thch ti v ti thch cch h n mc trong nhng ci qun ty ny. TIN CO HNH QUNG

Da trn chin lc ny, LS&Co. v Foote, Cone & Belding m rng mt chin dch qung co trn truyn hnh tr gi 4,5 triu cho Dockers gm c 3 ln 30 giy qung co cho nam gm 20 giy, 30 giy v 40 giy m h c trn cc cuc tr chuyn thn mt v cuc sng. Nhng tnh hung ny thuc nhiu loi khc nhau bao gm nhng khung cnh vo cui tun bnh thng v c khung cnh cc mi quan h khi lm vic. on phim trong qung co rt t nhin, khng c kch bn thoi vit trc trong khi camera quay ging nh mt con mt, di chuyn xung quanh nhm v quay cc k cn cnh. Cc qung co c gng mt cch cn thn ngn chn bt k ting ni ca ngi tr tui no hoc s lin tng ca h. Qung co tp trung t tht lng tr xung, v khng c gng mt c chiu vo mi lc vi mt dng

Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng

19

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND ngn: qun Dockers ca Levis c lm t 100% cotton. Nu bn khng mc qun Dockers bn ch ang mc qun ty m thi. Nh Koelker gii thch: s dng 100% cotton mang n mt cu ni hu hnh vi qun jeans Levis. CHIN LC CHNG TRUYN THNG I

Cng ty ln k hoch gii thiu Dockers thng qua mt chng trnh a chiu, to hiu ng cao v mang tnh a phng. Chng trnh ny ch yu nhm n khch hng v tip theo nhm n nhng nh bun. Cc qung co n khch hng l cung cp mt v tr v hnh nh bo v cho c khch hng v th trng mu dch. Qung co ca Dockers c sp t chy vo ma thu nm 1987 v ma ng nm 1988 trn 11 th trng chnh ni qun ty Dockers c bn. Cc th trng ny c chn t cc v tr bn l c bn ca Dockers, c tim nng pht trin mnh v a l phn tn. 11 th trng ny l New York, Columbus, Cincinnati, Minneapolis, Houston, Washinton DC, L.A., Miami, Dallas, Charlotte v Denver. Mt trong 11 th trng mc tiu ny l New York-th trng khch hng ln nht chim 8% ngi xem truyn hnh quc gia-c xem l th trng cha kha cho mt s gii thiu thnh cng. New York l trung tm ca ngnh kinh doanh o qun cho nam v c khuynh hng ra xu hng mt cho ton nc. Thm vo , nhng ngi mua t cc nc khc b nh hng bi nhng g m h thy New York. Chin lc truyn thng i chng ca Dockers s dng spot qung co trn truyn hnh trn 11 th trng mc tiu. Spot qung co truyn hnh c xem l phng tin truyn thng hiu qu nht n thi ca cng ng t n mang n mt s xm nhp v tc ng bng cch chuyn thng ip n ngi nghe mc tiu mt cch nhanh nht v hiu qu nht. Cng ty chn la k lng truyn i cc qung co ca chnh n trong sut gi cao im, cc chng trnh th thao v cc chng trnh vo m khuya. tng tnh hiu qu ca s n lc, cng ty ln k

hoch trnh din tnh a truyn thng ch trn mt chng trnh. Trong cc bui Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng 20

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND trnh din chnh vo ban m, qung co s c truyn qua mi m ca tun. Cc qung co c truyn i trn cc s kin th thao m c cc i ca th trng mc tiu a phng. Ti thnh ph New York, cc spot qung co c b sung trn bin qung co tu in ngm v cc billboard di ng c t cc v tr thu ht v khp cc a im khc trong thnh ph. CC HOT KHC NG C NG

Ngoi cc chng trnh qung co truyn hnh, LS&Co. cn hng vo khch hng thng qua s cng tc qung co vi cc nh bn l. Cc ca hng ca Dockers v cc im trng by c a ra tm nhn. V d nh cc chng trnh c ng bn hng, qu tng cho cc chng trnh mua sm, c hoch nh trong sut thi k sn phm mi c a ra v trong cc ma mua sm chnh to ra s thu ht cho cc ca hng. Thc hin vo cng thi gian vi a ra cc qung co ban u ca Dockers, LS&Co. t chc mt ba tic qung co gii thiu sn phm ti New York cho cc nhm ngi mua, to ra sc p kinh doanh v qun l cc ca hng bn l chnh. Thm vo , mt chin dch qung co nhm n th trng nh hng chnh vi cc cuc ni chuyn v thi trang v cc ph kin khc. tip tc marketing n cc nh bn l, LS&Co. ln k hoch ving thm cc ca hng bn l chnh vi cc nh thit k, cc nh bn bun v cc qun l, cc marketer. KT U QU BAN

Thnh cng ca Dokers n nhanh chng. Cc ca hng t hng qu nhiu sn phm trong sut ma u tin sn phm c tung ra vo nm 1986 n ni LS&Co. rt kh khn p ng tt c cc n t hng. K t khi cc thng hiu khc nh Lee Jeans ca tp on VF la chn khng gii thiu sn phm qun ty thng phc trong cc dng sn phm ca h th Dockers tip tc ko nhu cu

Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng

21

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO CREATING A SUB-BRAND ca khch hng v cc nh bn l v pha h. Theo thnh cng ban u ca qung co butt-cam, LS&Co. lun c bit n l hng cp nhp chin dch qung co to ra nhiu phong cch hn cho n. Cc qung co mi ch ra qun Dockers ang c mc trong nhng dp c bit, c i lm ln khi i chi. Nhng spot ny cao dng ch th gin. Bn gia cc ngi bn. chng c pht t nm 1986 n nm 1990. Vo nm 1991, Dockers t doanh s 500 t v l thng hiu c c 90% s nhn bit trn th trng mc tiu cho nam gii t 25-44 tui. T nhm ny, 40% s hu t nht mt qun ty ca Dockers. Mi khch hng ca Dockers s hu trung bnh 2,5 ci qun ca hng. Theo ui gi vng cc khch hng c bn hin c ca n trong khi vn thu ht cc khch hng mi, LS&Co. a ra mt chin dch qung co mi vo nm 1991 c gng m rng hnh nh ca Dockers vt qua hnh nh mt loi qun lm t vi kaki trn. Chin dch vi tiu : khng ai c mu sc ging nh Dockers s dng cch phi mu ni bt chuyn ti hnh nh mi ny. Mi qung co trong s ri qung co ny mang mt mu sc khc bit c a ra bi Dockers. V d nh, mt qung co ch s dng mt mu xanh v c trng vi cu: xanh. Mu en s trng nh th no nu n c lm sng ln. THNG HIU T

Trc nm 1993, doanh s hng nm ca Dockers dn u l 1 t . Vo nm , Dockers hch ton 50% hoc nhiu hn mc d on doanh s mong mun ti cc ca hng. Nm 1993, LS&Co n lc thc y vic mc thng phc trong mi trng cng s bng cch vit mt l th di 4 trang vi tiu Thi trang tin dng ni cng s n hn 40.000 nh qun tr nhn s ti cc tp on ln trn th gii. Bc th cha thng tin v vic b sung nhng chic vy cng s thi trang vo trong ni quy ca cng ty. Theo cc cng ty, 19% cc cng ty nhn c nhng l th ny tr li li, trong 81 cng ty nm trong danh sch Fortune 100.

Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng

22

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND Nm 1993 cng nh du vic Dockers thm nhp th trng Chu u. LS&Co thnh lp chi nhnh Dockers Chu u Amsterdam v a thng hiu qun ny ph bin ti th trng Chu u, qung co ca LS&Co c thit k bi hng Garbergs ca Thu in. Posters c thit k xut hin cc trung tm tu in ngm xuyn sut Chu u trong nhng nm . LS&Co gii thiu thng hiu Dockers m rng trong ma h nm 1993. Vi hy vng thu ht gii tr v nhng ngi tiu dng snh iu, cng ty tung ra thng hiu Dockers th thao trong ma h nm . LS&Co dn nhn Dockers Authentics vo qun v o, cc nhn ny c ct dn mt cch c tnh v c lm t loi vi fabric phc tp hn loi vi c dng cho nhn c cho sn phm Dockers. Cng ty chi ra 20% ca ton b chi ph qung co Dockers hay chnh l 5 t cho qung co ca Authentics. Dockers hng. Bn cnh Authentics chim 20% din tch ti cc ca

500,000 mu th gii thiu trc tip, Dockers Authentics cn nhn c d h tr ca mt lot cc qung co tp ch ca cc khch hng nam nh Esquire v Outside. Trong mt qung co c hnh mt ngi mu rn chc vi sn phm v cm t authentic khaki 2 trang u ca tp ch. Trang i din c hnh ca ngi lnh trong chin tranh th gii II v dng ch minus three years active duty. CUC CNH TRANH THI TRANG T DO WRINKLE FREE LS&Co cng gp phi mt thch thc i vi v tr dn u ca mnh vo nm 1993. Cc cng ty nh Haggar v Farah pht trin nhng chic qun cotton theo khuynh hng thi trang t do, nhng chic qun ny trong gn ging nh nhng chic qun khaki ca Dockers, nhng cht liu vi c bit ch l t nhn v hn ch c vic i . Khch hng p tr rt tch cc i vi loi qun ny, nhng LS&Co li t chi xu hng ny bi cho rng nhng chic qun ny qu nghim tc so vi Dockers. Nhng nh sn xut khc bn hng da trn ci nn ca Dockers, bi v

doanh s ca thng hiu ny bt u chng li vo nm 1993 v i xung vo nm Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng 23

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO CREATING A SUB-BRAND 1994. Nm sau , th phn ca Dockers trn th trng qun khaki nam ti cc ca hng ri t 42% xung cn 29% so vi nm trc, chnh s ng nhng ngi cnh tranh i theo xu hng thi trang t do li ko ngi tiu dng i xa Dockers. Nhng chic qun theo xu hng thi trang t do tng trng t 2% n 15% trn ton th trng sn xut qun nm 1994. i th cnh tranh ca Dockers l Haggar chim gi 73% th phn trn phn on thi trang t do ny. LS&Co nhn ra rng bn cnh vic mt i cc khch hng hin ti, thng hiu Dockers cn tht bi trong vic thu ht khch hng mi. Nghin cu ch ra rng n ng tui 20 t quan tm n thng hiu. Cng ty cn bo m vn gi c khch hng c bn hin ti ng thi thu ht c khch hng mi. Bc u tin ca tin trnh hi phc Dockers l bt kp xu hng thi trang t do, v vy LS&Co ra Dockers vi xu hng ny vo thng 11 nm 1994. t gii thiu sn phm ny c h tr bi mt chin dch qung co 40 t v bt u t thng 4. Bn cnh tagline mi Dont just get dressed. Get Dockers chin dch bao gm cc qung co truyn hnh vui nhn v khuyn mi cc knh bn l lin kt vi cc gii u golf U.S. Nhng mu qung co trn tivi a ra cc mu qun theo xu hng thi trang t do ku gi cc baby boomer nhng ngi sinh ra trong giai on sau chin tranh th gii II 1946 1965. Trong mt qung co vi hot cnh rt nhiu ngi n ng ang tranh ginh nhau v i li bng cc phng tin cng cng . Mt qung co khc tn l The Red Eye chiu cnh mt hnh khch my bay ang c gng thay i nhiu t th khc nhau c th c c cm gic thoi mi. Vi tt c nhng c ng phc tp nh vy th chic qun vn th hin c phong cch thi trang ang c a chung. LS&Co ang tip tc m rng mnh m sang th trng mi ny v u nm 1995 hu ht nhng chic qun Dockers u mang khuynh hng thi trang t do.

Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND K t khi nhiu ngi tiu dng cho rng Dockers a ra khuynh hng t do u tin trc khi n tr nn ph bin, LS&Co c nhng bc i c gi tr, t quan im ny ca ngi tiu dng, cng vo nm vi s pht trin ca chin dch the sex soaked Nice pants. Hng lot cc qung co tp trung vo vic phn bit xut pht t lot cc qung co kt ni mang tnh cch nam gii vi nhng mu qung co nguyn thu ca Dockers. Cc qung co truyn hnh chuyn sang mang mu sc gii tnh bng vic a ra mt nam din vi gng mt mang nt p c in ngi i din cho Dockers gy kinh ngc cho phi nam. S kt hp mi l ca nhng con mt ph cch ca tui mi ln lm cho doanh s ln n nh cao, khi mt ngi ph n la ln Nice pants khi nhn thy chic qun ca ngi n ng. S kt ni gia Dockers mang phong cch t do vi chin dch Nice pants o ngc tnh th i xung ca cng ty. Ti mt ca hng chnh trong chui phn phi, doanh s ca Dockers tng t 10 ln 15% mi nm t 1995 n 1996, so vi mc tng trng di 5% nm 1994. Dockers chim 80% th trng qun ca nam gii trong chui phn phi. TO DNG THNG HIU CON KHC S chuyn dch ca Levi sang cc trang phc cng s Cc nhn vin vn phng vo cui nhng nm 1980 chng kin s lan rng ca phong tro ngy th 6 mc thng phc cc on th quc t. Na thp k sau , nhiu cng ty gim bt tnh nghim tc trong cc trang phc bng cch a ra nhng tiu chun trang phc cng s, b i nhng b vest cng nhc trong sut tun lm vic. V d nh Dockers ca Levi li dng mt cuc nghin cu thng phc ca ngi dn vo cc ngy th 6 v cui tun, cng ty nh v thng hiu Slates ca mnh vo on th trng thng phc ni cng s rt c trin vng ny. Tuy nhin, th chin lc ny dng nh cng cha nhiu ri ro. LS&Co gii thiu b su tp Slates vo thng 8 nm 1996 ra th trng ang b thng tr bi

nhng chic Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng 25

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND qun ty ca Haggar Clothing Co., y l nguyn nhn lm cho th phn qun ty ca Levis cn 14% trong 30% th trng. Thm vo , th trng qun ty cng c mt s gim nh, t 2 t nm 1994 cn 1.9 t nm 1995. Mc cho s cnh tranh gay gt v chng loi sn phm ny kh kh tiu th, cc nh qun tr LS&Co vn tin tng rng vn cn nhng khng gian trong phng qun o ca cnh my ru cho thng hiu th 3 ny. 12 thng trc khi tung ra b su tp ny, LS&Co tin hnh mt cuc iu tra th trng rng ri quyt nh ci tn Slates, nhng ngi thc hin khu ct vi, kiu by tr trong ca hiu v ni dung qung co. Sau , Sausalito, CA chn nh t vn Lexicon t tn, LS&Co th ci tn ny trn nhng ci nhn qun gi v ng trn cc bo v tp ch th phn ng ca ngi tiu dng vi ci tn c in. Ngi tiu dng tit l rng nhng chic qun c 2 ng xp li c n ng rt a chung, vic gp v gu qun th khng cn thm th may. Tin tng vo nhng size vi cc con s l a ra nhng sn phm va vn, LS&Co trnh by b su tp Slate vi cc size nh 35, 37. Cng ty cng tin hnh th cch sp t trong ca hng ti 2 im tp trung l New York v San Francisco. Hn 240 nh bn l trn khp th gii c by tr theo kiu ca Slates mu g tr thnh mt xu hng chung i vi b su tp. Cng ty thc hin nhng mu qung co vi kinh ph ln gii thiu Slates , n cn nhiu hn cho vic gii thiu Dockers, 20 triu cho mt chin dch tng t bao gm c qung co truyn hnh v qung co ti cc im bn. S TR KHAKI LI CA

ng thi vi xu hng thi trang cng s l s pht trin ca nhu cu i vi vi khaki. Vo cui nm 1997, doanh s qun khaki ca nam tng 21% t 1995 n 2.8 t . S thnh cng ca khaki hon ton tri ngc vi s sut gim ca th trng jean nam, mc tng trng th trng ny gim 6% t 1996 n 1997. Dockers bt u i mt vi s cnh tranh gia tng do s tham gia ca The Gap nm

1998, khi Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng 26

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND cng ty ny gii thiu mt chin dch 20 triu gm Tv, bo in v cc qung co ngoi tri tip th cho khaki ca h. Theo cc con s a ra ca LS&Co, The Gap to c 1 nn tng pht trin v bao ph th trng. Tuy nhin Dockers vn chim 26% th trng khaki nm 1998, gp i i th cnh tranh gn nht. Thm vo , Dockers cn chi ra 50 triu cho cc chin dch tip th cng vo nm , gp i cc qung co ca The Gap. Mt phn ln ngn sch u t ca nm 1998 - 65% - dnh cho chng trnh Dockers urban networking. Chng trnh ny bt u ti San Francisco, c chc nng nh l mt s m rng vn ho, ni Dockers ti tr cho cc bui tic, cc ba ti, cc festival v phim, cc bui ho nhc v khaki c gii thiu ti cc trung tm thnh ph ln. kt ni nhng n lc ny gia cc thnh ph, cng ty to ra v tr ca urban worker. Chng trnh Dockers ny cn lan xung cc ng ph ph bin thng hiu n s tng tng ca thnh ph. Chi ph cho vic lm ny c thu t cc ba tic ti cc nh hng, t cc ung trong cc cu lc b m v ti cc bui lin hoan phim. Mt l do na cho s u t ln vo chng trnh phc tp ny l phn ln nhng ngi mc sn phm Dockers u sng ti cc khu vc th . Theo Amy Rosenthal, mt qun tr vin marketing cp cao ca Dockers, 1/3 doanh s khaki n t 10 th trng thnh ph dn u ca States. Tin tng rng cng chng s l ngi a xu hng thi trang ny lan rng khp cc thnh ph. I DIN VI THCH THC MI Cnh tranh gia cc loi qun khaki Khi cc loi qun khaki lan rng, th cc i th cnh tranh ca Dockers cng tng theo. Khaki thu ht gii tr, v nhng ngi tr thch cc sn phm c thng hiu v d nh The Gap, Polo, Tommy Hilfiger cng thu ht cc khch hng vo tui 20 nh Dockers lm l vi cc baby boomer. Nghin cu tit l rng th h tr - nhng ngi mua nhng chic qun khaki ngh rng Dockers l nhng chic

Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND qun dnh cho cha n. Cc cng ty nh Gap, nm 1998 chi ra 20 triu cho chin dch qung co cc loi qun Gap khaki, ng thi bt u c nhng n lc marketing nhm thu ht nhng ngi mua tr hn. Cc qung co ca Gap Khaki c nhn vt chnh l cc v cng, ca s, ngi trt skateboard trn cc nn nhc Khakis Rock, Khakis Swing hoc Khakis Groove. i lp vi nhng qung co tr trung ca Gap, Dockers s dng slogan Khakis with a blue jeans soul lin kt Dockers vi thng hiu Levis. Cng nm , LS&Co a slogan ny vo cc qung co ca n, v thay slogan Nice pants bng One leg at a time. Nhng qung co mi ny nhm n la tui t 25 n 34, v bt u trn truyn hnh t ma gii bng r NCAA nm 1998. Vo u nm 1999, LS&Co iu chnh cch tip cn marketing ca Dockers sang nhng i tng tr hn. Mt bc i kt ni gia thng hiu Dockers vi nhng ngi a chung khaki bng cch a ra mt b su tp Dockers Khakis. Thm vo , cng ty cng tng ngn sch cho truyn thng thm 12% so vi nm trc. Trang tr trong chin dch qung co Dockers Khakis l nhng qung co truyn hnh quyn r v kho lo, i lp hn vi nhng qung co trc y ca Dockers vi hnh nh ngi n ng ang c gng chng t bn thn gia m bn ca anh ta. Mt qung co c ta l Nightclub, c hnh nh mt nam v cng mc Dockers khakis trong mt cu lc b m kh snh iu. Nhng ngi ph n xung quanh u b thu ht bi s hp dn ca anh y hay c bit hn chnh l ci qun ca anh ta. Mi khi anh y hon thnh mt bi din ca mnh l mt ngi ph n s ko anh y cng nhy vi c ta. Sau khi ri khi cu lc b, anh y bt mt taxi, ngi n li xe cng c gng quyn r anh chng ny. Mu qung co kt thc vi mt n ci ca nam v cng trong ting la ht ca nhng ngi ph n Durable, authentic khaki. Youll wear out before they go. Qung co nh du s tr li ca tagline Nice Pants, xut hin cui on qung co. LS&Co thu ht s quan tm ca cc

Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng

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KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND fan c xu hng hoi c bng cch gii thiu nhng chic qun c phong cch unisex Dockers K-1 Khakis. K-1 Khakis c lm t cht liu khaki m vo nhng nm u th k 20 qun i pht ra. Nhng tai nn kinh doanh ca Levis Thnh cng ca Dockers l mt trong nhng kha cnh tch cc trong cng vic kinh doanh ca LS&Co v nhng nm cui ca thp nin 90. Bn cnh vic hiu c th hiu ca khch hng mc tiu ca mnh l la tui baby boomer, tuy nhin LS&Co tht bi khi cng ty b qua phn on t 13 n 24 tui. Khi cc mu thit k jean cho th trng nhng ngi tr ny ngy cng chim u th, nhng mu ny hon ton khc vi nhng mu truyn thng qun ng thng ca Levis, nhng ngi tr bt u t b nhng mu qun rng thng thnh c lm t vi si tng hp vi vn vi l nhng sc cho v c nhng ci ti ln. u tin LS&Co ht sc phn i s thay i phong cch ny v nhanh chng ri ra khi th trng dnh cho teen. Nhng b su tp li thi rung nhng hi chung cnh bo i vi cng vic kinh doanh ca cng ty. Sau khi t c doanh s k lc nm 1996, cng ty tri qua s gim st v doanh s cng nh th phn trong 4 nm tip theo, l thi k m th trng qun jean tng trng ch 4% mt nm. Cng ty dng lm vic vi hng qung co vi 67 nm kinh nghim ca mnh Foote, Cone & Belding v sau xem li mu qung co qun jean 90 triu vo cui nm 1997, LS&Co chn hng TWBA/Chiat/Day. D TWBA/Chiat/Day a ra kh nhiu tng sng to tuy nhin t nm 1997 n nm 1998 doanh s ca Levis vn ri xung 13% - 6 t . Th phn ca h ri xung di 17% nm 1998, gn mt na ca 30% phn ng gp l ca nhng nm u thp k. So vi thng hiu Lee v Wrangler, c s hu bi tp on VF, th phn tng trng t 17% nm 1990 n 26% nm 1998. Thm vo , nhng thng hiu qun jean t nhn nh J.C.Penney Co tng ch t 3% nm 1990 ln 20% nm 1998.

Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng

29

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND Chui cung ng LS&Co gim ngon mc s lao ng trong nc i 1 na, ch gi li 22 nh my sn xut Bc M v sa thi 30% trong 19,000 nhn cng nm 1999. Ngi pht ngn ca cng ty Linda Butler gii thch rng: cng ty duy tr mt lng nhng nh my nh vy th hon ton khng ph hp vi tnh trng th trng cnh tranh khc nghit. Nm 1999, LS&Co mt 207 triu v doanh s gim t 14% nm trc xung 5.1 t . Trm trng hn l 95% li nhun bin ca cng ty cng st gim, t 102.5 triu nm 1998 xung 5.4 triu . T hn, th trng qun jean Levis tip tc ri xung cn 17%. Rc ri trong lnh vc thng mi in t Mt trong nhng tht bi ca LS&Co l cng ty khng tham gia vo th trng thng mi in t nh cc cng ty khc lm. Min cng giao sn phm cho nhng nh cung cp trc tip online v s s ni gin ca cc nh bn l, cng ty cui cng cho khch hng mua sn phm t website ca cng ty vo thng 11 nm 1998. Mi thng hiu Levis, Dockers v Slates c mt trang web ring vi nhng thng tin v sn phm theo ma v a ch bn l ng thi website cn cung cp cc thng tin v cch t hng. Trang web ca Dockers cn c kt ni vi nhng li khuyn ca cc chuyn gia thi trang v trang phc n tng cho cc dp khc nhau. Cng ty cn mo him b ra 5 triu cho hng trn hn 20 trang web qung co ni ting nh American Online hay Yahoo! Theo gim c thng mi in t v marketing bn l ca cng ty, Kevin McSpadden, nhng n lc qung co trn internet gp phn rt nh cho s thnh cng ca website Levis.com. Khi cng ty t b vic cho hng trn cc trang web qung co, Kevin McSpadden than th rng: Chng ti b ra rt nhiu tin qung co tuy nhin chng thu c l bao. Thay cho marketing online, LS&Co tr v vi nhng knh truyn

thng truyn thng nh bo in, radio v qung co tivi nng doanh s cng ty ti website Levis.com. Cng ty m mt website thng mi trong 15 thng, nhng n cng Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng 30

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO - CREATING A SUB-BRAND khng li nhun l bao. Ngi tiu dng y ch chi ra khong 56 n 120 , v con s ny khng kh nng chi tr cho chi ph lp website v vn chuyn sn phm. u tin, LS&Co cm cc nh bn l bn sn phm jean v cc sn phm khc ca LS&Co trn website ca h. Khi cng ty d b hn ch ny trc ma ngh nm 1999 v cho php JCPenney.com v Macys.com bn sn phm Levis th cc website ny bn c n 60% hn c con s LS&Co bn trn trang web ca mnh. Cc trang web thng mi ca cng ty chnh thc c d b vo thng 1 nm 2000. TNG LAI DOCKERS? NO CHO

C mt cu hi tn ti, liu Dockers c duy tr c s tng trng trong mt th trng bo ho khng. Vi mi thng hiu qun o chnh cung cp mt hnh nh ca khaki c in, Dockers khng cn kh nng lp ch trng th trng gia jean v qun ty. thot ra khi tnh trng tr tr ny v thu ht c nhng ngi tiu dng thi trang, LS&Co tung ra thng hiu Dockers Recode vo ma xun nm 2000. Nh l mt dng thi trang cng s hng u, hoc thp hn l tm trung, o m vi loi mu sc v c lm t loi vi c th co dn, Dockers Recode ging vi Slates hn l Dockers nguyn thu 100 cotton. Gim c ca Dockers v Slates, Robi Silten cho rng Dockers Recode l cu ni gia Dockers v Slates, nh du mt dng sn phm mi: N khng ch l nn tng c bn . N cng khng gy tr ngi cho Slates. Dockers Recode l ni m thi trang c th c sng to. Nhng mu thi trang mi nht ca Dockers lun c update trn cc qung co truyn hnh, bo in. Nm 2001, Levi Strauss gii thiu Dockers Mobile Pant, nhng chic qun thi trang c thm nhng ti ph nhng ph kin cng ngh. Mt qung co ca Mobile Pant l mt b phim v gin ip. trong qung co, ngi ph n s dng mt ci knh X-Ray theo di trong chic qun Dockers ca ngi n ng. C ta pht hin

ra chic qun ny cha rt nhiu th nh in thoi di ng, PDA m mt thng Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng 31

KHOA QUN TR KINH DOANH (DBA) - BRAND MANAGEMENT CASE 1: LEVI STRAUSS & CO CREATING A SUB-BRAND khng nhn thy. The Mobile Pant em li doanh thu cao ngt cho Dockers nm 2001. Doanh s bin ca Dockers gim nm 2001, tuy nhin cc chuyn gia vn t hi nhng thit k mi ca cng ty c sc vc dy cng ty trong nhng nm n khng. Mc d vn l mt thng hiu t , doanh s ca Dockers cng ch bng nm 1993. Levi Strauss cn tm ra con ng thu ht cc khch hng mi. Cu hi: 1. Bn hy m t chin lc thng hiu ca Levis ni chung? u l nhng im mnh, u l nhng im yu? 2. Phn tch chin lc truyn thng ca Levis mi khi cng ty tung ra sn phm mi. N c ph hp vi nhng n lc qung co trc y hay khng v ph hp nh th no? N gp phn xy dng ti sn thng hiu ca cng ty nh th no? 3. Hy m t hnh nh thng hiu ca Dockers? iu g to nn ti sn thng hiu ny? 4. M t mt vi thay i trong chin lc marketing ca Dockers so vi ban u. LS&Co duy tr mt thng ip marketing nht qun cha ? Thng hiu c c nh v mt cch chin lc v chin thut duy tr mt v th dn u mnh m trong nhng nm ti khng?

Ging vin : TS Phm Th Lan Hng

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