Pattern Adjustments to McCall’s 4745

“Code Cylinder Pockets”

By Char Tozard
(Chuck Foltz)

Special Note: See Page 8 for Alternate Cut

Step 1: Trace a copy of the upper portion of one of the
front breasts of the tunic starting at the chosen measure
for the top of the pocket.
Step 2: After calculating how deep the pocket is to be and
having doubled that measure plus 1 inch, insert another
piece of tracing paper between the top pocket lines of the
newly traced upper breast and the rest of the breast piece.

NOTE: This insert when folded in half will form the new code cylinder pocket.
Step 3: With the insert attached to the upper breast, bring the two
pocket lines down to meet each other and tape in position. Then
fold the insert up to align with the pocket top line.

Now you can trace the outline of the sides of this long pocket
where it meets the outer edges of the panel and arm hole.
Step 4: Slide the upper breast piece back up and unfold the insert
to match it with the pocket line of the lower breast piece and tape
them together.

You now have the new length of your breast piece pattern.
Step 5: Trim away
the excess paper
surrounding the
new extension.

Step 6: Fold the new

pocket down into place
and check the alignment
at the sides. Your
cutting pattern for one
breast piece is now
complete.
Step 7: Flip the completed pattern piece over folding the new
pocket the opposite direction and you are ready to trace the
other breast piece that will become the double breasted tunic
front.

NOTE: Use the centerlines and the pocket lines to align and tape the pattern pieces
together as they are assembled.
Alternate Step 5: A) Draw a light line (with pocket folded) down the full length of the Left
Breast to show where the edge of the front V-panel will be blind stitched to finish the left
breast front covering.
B) Then with the pocket still folded down flip the pattern over and measure from this stitching
line toward the centerline 2” and mark a new line only in the folded pocket area. Next transfer
that new line to both sides of the folded pocket so it will show through when the piece is
unfolded. This line is now the innermost edge of the new cut line for the section that is to
be removed.
C) Now measure down from the pocket top line 1” and draw a horizontal line from the breast
outer edge back toward the new vertical cut line. Flip piece back over and unfold to reveal the
cut lines outlining the area to be removed shown in orange.
D) Next measure out around the cut lines 3/4” and draw a dotted stitch line showing where
the former pocket will be closed and the new edge for the small code pocket will be covered
underneath the front V-panel. The closing seam can now be covered over with lining.

Your Right Breast will now be the only piece with a full width pocket fold that can be used as a
hidden pocket for badges and cards. Thus the overall thickness of the tunic chest area has been
reduced by two layers under the back side of the front V-panel (placard).
Pocket Removed Example: Here both breast pieces are interfaced with full pocket
formed in right breast (A), and inner portion of pocket removed in left Breast (B).

B
A

Front view of breast pieces. The stitching over right breast code pocket is basting
only, while stitching across the front of left piece is permanent and will be covered
up when V-Panel is applied and breast lined.

A
B