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Zagreb In Your Pocket

Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Zagreb City Travel Guide
Zagreb City Travel Guide

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Winter 2015/2016

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
A Winter Fairy Tale
Advent & Winter
Wonderland
Taste of Winter
Sparkling Wines &
Pastries of Old
Shopping With Sense
Affordable & Authentic
N°82 - complimentary copy
zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Zagreb
Nightlife 41
Let the music take you higher
Sightseeing 45
Discover what we’ve uncovered
Shopping 52
Priceless places and buys
Hotels 60
The true meaning of “do not disturb”
Directory 62
Services you just may need
List of Small Features
Carnival Time 23
Our Beloved Pig Slaughter Tradition 32
The Foodie’s Guide 34
It’s Time for Sparkling Wine 35
Medvednica and Traditional Winter Dishes 36
Pointers for Pints 41
Zagreb Heroines 50
Affordable Art 56
City Centre Shopping 59
Maps & Index

Street Register 63
Transport Map 63
City Centre Map 64-65
City Map 66
Foreword 4
A zesty editorial to unfold
Arrival & Getting Around 6
SOS! Have no fear, Z IYP is here
City Basics 9
The A-Z of Zagreb
Advent Map 10-11
Holiday season with ZIYP
Chasing Winter 12
Winter is here and there is plenty of reason to cheer
Culture & Events 14
A pick ‘n‘ mix list to brighten your stay
Zagreb Pulse 24
When in Zagreb, do as Zagrepčani
Restaurants 26
We give you the bread ‘n‘ butter of where to eat
Local Flavour 32
Treat yourself or be treated
Cofee & Cakes 40
“How’s that sweet tooth?”
E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
Winter has come and withit anexciting seasonof newevents inZagreb! We hope you enjoy your stay inZagreb during
these long Winter nights - Advent in Zagreb (Photo by Julien Duval, Zagreb Tourist Board Archives)
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2015/2016 3
Contents
Publisher
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
ISSN 1333-2732
Company Office & Accounts
Višnja Arambašić
Zagreb In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia
Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
Printed by Kerschoffset d.o.o., published 4 times per year
Editorial
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić,
Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Siniša Pavić
Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
Reasearcher/Public relations Eli Gajinov
Design Lovro Boljat
Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise
stated
Cover © Boudoir FW’015, Photo by Mladen Šarić
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Support Sales Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
Copyright notice
Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps
copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub-
lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Winter is here and there is plenty of reason to cheer! To
begin with, this issue is crammed with cultural exhibi-
tions and concerts that are popping up around town. In
our feature Advent in Zagreb, Belimir will take you on an
Advent tour through an interactive map with key loca-
tions outlined. And just because it’s cold, it doesn’t mean
you can’t be active, find out where to go skiing, ice-skating,
and more. When it comes to wining and dining, we have
singled out some tip top places, and for those craving tea,
hot chocolate or coffee, pick’n’choose from the cafés listed.
Our Local Flavour category gives you every reason to sip on
top of the range Croatian sparkling wines with sommelier
Jelena, perfect for New Year’s Eve. Read up on Mountain
huts and the tradition of preparing pig meat for the season,
an age old custom well and truly alive. Can you hear those
jingle bells? Christmas is here and Carnival Season will fol-
low soon after, find out where and why? Wishing you a joy-
ful stay over the winter and do send us any feedback, it’s
always much appreciated.

ABOUT IYP
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go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward
we have ever taken and entrenches our
position as a game-changing publisher
in all formats. Meantime, back in the
world of print, we are close to comple-
ting the first issue of Kaliningrad IYP:
watch this space for more info.
To keep up with all that’s new at In Your
Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.
com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.
com/inyourpocket).
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zagreb.inyourpocket.com 4 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Foreword
bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is
home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the Information cen-
tre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with
at least a minor command of English. Changing currency:
ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket
office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića.
There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 -
21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage:
Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located
up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/
hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you'll be
paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase
to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town:
Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when
your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left
and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a
tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up
tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg
bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about
50kn to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb is
well connected with buses which are linked to all major cit-
ies in Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between
Zagreb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one
direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the countries
capital range from 26-77kn.
MAIN BUS STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR)
QE-4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33,
promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr.
BY TRAIN
Zagreb's train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very user-
friendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into
the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk
through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left
corner. A currency exchange is located in the international
ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office
(Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between
the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as
you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is
a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it
ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are
available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you
exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15 - 25kn/per
day. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance and sur-
vey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main
square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards
Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Žitnjak. Taxis
queue in front of the main hall and a ride into town will usu-
ally go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around
30kn. Getting around Town: Railroads are connected
with almost all major cities in Croatia, train rides within and
around the Zagreb area are faster and less expensive than
other means of transport. There are also seasonal discounts
and organised day trips where guests can see quite a lot in
little time. If you would like to tour around the surrounding
area by bike, prices depend on the distance and vary from
BY PLANE
Zagreb International Airport is located 17km out of town.
Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both
domestic and international arrival and departure areas are
located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly
outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka
office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 -
21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Informa-
tion Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours.
Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from
the post office have a baby changing room, but do note
that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting
to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus
service from Zagreb International Airport to the Zagreb Bus
Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to
flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and
costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more
cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals.
Due to the specific location of the Zagreb International Air-
port, taxi rates can differ significantly. Therefore, we recom-
mend you pre-book online prior to your arrival. Simply log
onto www.ekotaxi.hr and your taxi ride will be waiting for
you with prices and comfort second to none. If you wish to
go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10
local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.
ZAGREB INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
(MEĐUNARODNA ZRAČNA LUKA ZAGREB
(MZLZ))
QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb-
airport.hr.
The bus and train stations are not directly in close proximity
to one another but are within a 10 minute easy walk or a
2-4 minute drive by car.
BY BUS
The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni
kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from
10-35kn. And for all you pet lovers, bring your very best
friend along but do know that you must have a mandatory
veterinary booklet, small dogs are free of charge if kept in
your lap or in a basket: Larger dogs must wear a muzzle and
are charged at 50% of the standard price for tickets.
MAIN TRAIN STATION (GLAVNI KOLODVOR)
QC-4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44,
www.hzpp.hr.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
TRAMS & BUSES
Getting around town is made all the much easier via the
city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you
from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run
from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00
- 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can be
found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with a bus
picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4, Glavni
kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. There
are 133 daily bus lines and 4 nightlines which link Zagreb,
Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest and most
known tram and bus stations are positioned at Črnomerec,
Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most. Tickets cost
10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night rides (00:00
- 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets
are 30kn. Tickets are available from the driver on buses,
at kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride free. Please
validate your ticket once you board: an unvalidated ticket is
as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one
is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors
operating on a random schedule. For detailed schedules
and route plans of ZET buses and trams, simply visit www.
zet.hr/default.aspx?id=290Qtel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/
(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr.
THE SLJEME BUS LINE
The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac
Station and goes to the Tomislav’s dom Station, six times
a day throughout the week, and every hour on weekends
between 06:20 - 21:50.Qwww.zet.hr/userdocsimages/
voznired/140.pdf.
BIKING
Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In what
is becoming somewhat of a common trend, more and more
locals have thought wisely and have begun to choose the
ecological route to town. Even though bike routes haven't
fully been mapped, roads are marked for cyclists with either
red paint or are separated from the main road by yellow
and white lines. Markings are very visible and clear to both
bike riders and car drivers. If you would like to rent a bike
(daily rental will cost 100kn), visit any of the following www.
zagrebbybike.com, www.nextbike.hr, www.bike.com.hr. For
those seeking a recreational ride, then Maksimir, Bundek and
Jarun are the ideal locations. True cycling enthusiasts who
wish to be challenged should know that the city surround-
TOURIST INFORMATION
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the
Zagreb Airport, next to the international arrivals area,
at the Main Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and
Lotršćak Tower.QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11,
tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@
zagreb-touristinfo.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr.
Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
ZAGREB COUNTY TOURIST BOARD
QC-3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65,
info@tzzz.hr, www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
5
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facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2015/2016 7 zagreb.inyourpocket.com 6 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Arrival & Getting Around Arrival & Getting Around
ings are filled with alternative bicycle routes that range in
various levels of degree as well as different types of surface.
For all other information and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist
Association and www.pedala.hr, www.mojbicikl.hr.
CAR RENTAL
Rent-a-car offices are located at airports and within the
city's large hotels (e.g., Sheraton, Panorama, Westin,...) or
within their immediate vicinity. Prices per day for an econo-
my or compact car class ranges from 250 to 550 kn. In order
to rent a four wheeled vehicle, you need to have a credit
card and be 18 years old (by law). If a problem occurs on the
road, first call your rent-a-car contact number, then the HAK
roadside assistance service at (+ 385-1) 1987.
PARKING
STREET PARKING/SMS PARKING
There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs
on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 6kn/h with a maxi-
mum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 3kn/h with
a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green)
is 1.5kn/h. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box
which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display
it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message
your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown
(including the international code if you're using a foreign
mobile (+385) 700101 (zone 1), 700102 (zone 2), 700103
(zone 3). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a
return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a
timely service, you'll receive a text message reminding you
to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to
move your car. In case you don't pay for your parking spot
or over-run your allotted time, you'll be left a ticket valid
for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector
spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 100,
60 or 20kn respectively according to the zone, and can be
paid in any post office.
TAXIS
EKO TAXI
QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/(+385-) 099 456
04 55, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www.ekotaxi.hr T 6
RADIO TAKSI ZAGREB
QD-6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/
(+385-1) 17 17, info@radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio-
taksi-zagreb.hr
TAXI CAMMEO
Qtel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxi-
cammeo.hr
CUSTOMS
As Croatia entered the EU on July 1 2013, there are no longer
custom limits between member states or tax return. For other
non-member states we recommend you to follow info at
www.porezna-uprava.hr.
DISABLED TRAVELLERS
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take
shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still
a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have park-
ing spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room
adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable
access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying
that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on
the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you're
planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destina-
tion in relation to these matters and the majority will endeav-
our to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.
ELECTRICITY
The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical
appliances.
WATER
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
MONEY
There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well as an
abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many
restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be
sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.
TIPPING
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about
tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all,
you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit
of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their
bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but
leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for
a visitor to do, doesn’t it?
ROADS
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving
licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws
apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles ex-
cept hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24
is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless oth-
erwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph
on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.
TOILETS
You ‘had to go' forty-five minutes ago...public toilets or WCs
(pronounced ‘vay-say') are few, as one in the Cesarčeva Street
near the main city square, which is free of charge and wheel-
chair-accessible. Your best bet is to find and use one inside the
shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat at a café, order
yourself a beverage and then hustle through the appropriate
door - gospoda or muški for men, dame or ženski for women.
VISAS
All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member
states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to
visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin,
before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik
and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recom-
mend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the bor-
der crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the
border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able
to enter Croatia.
WHEN THINGS GO WRONG
Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly
lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your
eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency,
Croatia has implemented Europe's wide Emergency Number
112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department.
Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an
accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police
station. In that case, contact your embassy.
QR CODE
This QR code contains the website
address, http://www.inyourpocket.
com/croatia/zagrebforZagrebInYour
Pocket: and a user having a camera
phone equipped with the correct
reader softwarecanscanthisimage
of theQRCodecausingthephone’s
browser tolaunchandredirect totheprogrammedURL. Save
theimageandprint it out anywayyouwant.
instagram.com/
croatiainyourpocket
+385 1 1414
MERRY
CHRISTMAS
AND
HAPPY NEW
YEAR!
reservation@ekotaxi.hr
www.ekotaxi.hr ekoTAXI zagreb
Ice Park on King Tomislav Square - Katapult Promocija Archives
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2015/2016 9 zagreb.inyourpocket.com 8 Zagreb In Your Pocket
City Basics Arrival & Getting Around
Barcelona Gipsy Klezmer Orchestra - Photo by Jordi Olivier, 15.10 at Močvara
Greetings folks!
Welcome to Zagreb
at this special time of
year. My name is
Belimir and I'm about
to take you on an
Advent tour of our
magical city!
Ho ho ho...
04. 12 - 21. 12
Advent on the Main Square (C-2)  
Don’t miss out on a variety of concerts and entertaining events on the Main Square, weekdays
between 18h-21h and weekends 11h -13h & 18h- 21h. Famous local singer Nina Badric will be
performing for New Year’s Eve. 
16. 12 - 23. 12 from 10:00 - 22:00 
Christmas Cakes & Cookies Festival - Galerija Karas, 4 Praška Street (C-2)
Festival at which chefs that are masters at creating delicious desserts will present their tasty
Christmas selection of treats. They will also offer workshops and tastings for visitors. 
28. 11 - 10. 01
The Market on Zrinjevac (C-2/3) also has gorgeous small wooden houses selling artsy items,
unique gifts, souvenirs and Christmas decorations. Music program from 18-22h weekdays and
weekends from 11-13h and 20-22h 
28. 11 - 10. 01
Ice Park on King Tomislav Square  (C-3)
This beautiful and romantic atmosphere will warm you up during the cold winter days.
19. 12 - 06. 01
Live Christmas Nativity Scene  - Kaptol, in front of the Cathedral  (C-2)
See Joseph, Mary and Jesus, the three Kings, the shepherds and real farm animals in a real live
nativity setting in front of the Cathedral.
04. 12 - 24. 12
Strauss in Oktogon (C-2)
Every Friday from 18h -19h and Saturdays 11h - 12h, the Strauss Ensemble will be performing mini
concerts featuring works by the Strauss family, which will include waltzes, polkas and marches. 
28. 11 - 02. 01
Croatian National Theatre - HNK (B-3)
The Nutcracker, a fairytale ballet, composed by Tchaikovsky, has a well-known selection of music
with some of the best known tunes in classical music. Over the years, it has become one of the
most popular ballets performed around Christmas time. On the very frst day of the year 2016 also
enjoy the New Year’s waltz concert.
12. 12 - 22. 12 
Ice Sculptures - Plato Gradec (C-1) 
On Plato Gradec an artist from Canada will create Christmas sculptures out of 20 ice blocks,
each weighing 100 pounds. 
12. 12 - 24. 12
Christmas of Old Zagreb - Klovicevi dvori Gallery (C-1)
Don’t miss out on stopping by this unique event, which will feature an Antiquity Fair, lectures, a small
exhibition of old Christmas jewellery and old Advent postcards, as well as a gastro day, musical
program and workshops for making Christmas jewellery. 
28. 11 - 06. 01
Advent on the European Square (C-2) 
Bigger, better stands will be selling a variety of Christmas decorations, traditional delicacies and
mulled wine, rich music program, including a choir performance after the midnight mass. 
28. 11 - 06. 01
Fooling Around / Fuliranje, Tomiceva & Kurelceva Streets (B-2; D-2)
Come out for a concert, stop by for a drink with some friends, or simply pick up some trinkets
and sweets for your loved ones this holiday season!
16. 12 - 23. 12
Artomat  - HDLU (E-3)
A charming traditional pre-Christmas fair with unique and quirky gifts up for grabs!
28. 11 - 20. 12
Advent Calendar - Žerjaviceva 3 - Mihanoviceva 30/2 (B-3; B-4)
Discover hidden courtyards and alleyways in the Lower Town at various exhibitions, readings,
workshops, lectures, performances and concerts. 
28. 11 - 10. 01
Gajeva and Bogoviceva Streets  (C-2)
Part of the Traditional Christmas Market with little wooden houses that contain a variety of
Christmas goodies.
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Zagreb in winter!? Unlike the beloved brown bear which
can hardly wait for winter to come and fall into its blessed
deep hibernation, Zagreb’s winter has the reverse effect
whereby the cold and frosty season ignites our metropolis
even more so. The city squares and streets are filled with
song and dance, delicacies can be enjoyed, it’s where hik-
ing, strolling, skating, and recreational activities thrive, or
simply life being lived to its fullest.
In its sixth edition, Advent in Zagreb is growing in popu-
larity as it continues to get better and more meaningful.
After all, many travel portals have listed Advent in Zagreb
as a must see attraction and one of the best in Europe. The
magical city park Zrinjevac (C-2/3) is lit up with thousands
of lights, music is being played at ‘Fuliranje’ in Tomićeva
(B-2) and Kurelčeva (D-2) , there is singing and dancing
on Ban Jelačić Square (C-2) and at the European mar-
ket (D-2), and when the temperature drops to below zero
there are sausages and mulled wine to keep you warm and
snuggled. (For more info, see Advent, page 10.)
An important part of Advent in Zagreb is the Ice Park at
King Tomislav Square (C-3). A mega outdoor skating rink
is open to the public right next to the stately Art Pavilion
giving all visitors the pleasure of skating and socialising. But
low and behold, it is not the only ice rink to enjoy. You can
skate and dance at the Šalata ice rink (D-1), from Wednes-
day to Sunday to the sound of disco music. (Wed - Fri 18:00
- 19:30, Sat - Sun 10:30 - 12:00, 18:00 - 19:30, 20:30 - 22:00;
ticket prices Mon - Fri 15kn, 20kn on weekends; skate rental
Mon - Fri 15kn, 20kn weekend). If you’re a fan of indoor ice
rinks, from Thursday to Sunday in the afternoon you can do
pirouettes at Dom Sportova (I-3) (Thu, Fri 20:00 - 21:30,
Sat - Sun 10:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:30, 20:00 - 21:30; ticket
prices Mon - Fri and weekend mornings are 15kn, 20kn
weekend; skate rental Mon - Fri and weekend mornings
15kn, 20kn weekend). The Zagreb Velesajem (I-5) is also
available (Fri - Sat 20:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:30 - 12:00, 20:00 -
21:30; ticket price Mon - Fri and weekend mornings 15kn,
20kn weekend; skate rental Mon - Fri and weekend morn-
ings 15kn, 20kn weekend).
For those who love walking, hiking, and sledging, then
Sljeme is your next destination. Escape the hustle and
bustle of city traffic and in just 15 minutes find yourself
enjoying the benefits of this Nature Park. And once some
leisurely activity has been had, out comes the homemade
food; banked beans with toast or a plate of sausages or
turkey with dumplings. (For more info, see Local Flavour,
page 36.)
Crank it up a notch with skiing and snowboarding as there
are several ski slopes open to the public every day from
09:00 to 16:00 hours on Sljeme. There is also night skiing on
Tuesdays and Thursdays from 19:00 to 22:00 hours. (For infor-
mation on the operations of the ski slopes and ticket prices,
check www.facebook.com/skijalistesljeme or www.
sljeme.hr)
To help maintain top form over the winter days, swimming is
a top option. The pools at Utrine (J-5), SP Mladost (H-4/5),
and Mladost (I-3) are open daily to the public. Due to the
extensive programme, check out the schedules and prices
which are available at www.sportskiobjekti.hr
If anything has experienced a real boom over the last few
years, then it is running! Running amongst Zagrebians is a
true hit. You’re bound to see both young and old go jogging
and almost anywhere, whether it be on the Sava embank-
ment (I/K-4), or in one of the city’s green oases such as Park
Maksimir (K-2), Bundek (J-4)...
If escaping the wintery chills and staying indoors where en-
tertainment, recreation, and relaxation is priority, then it is
worth knowing that the Buena Vista Club (I-4) from Tues-
days to Saturdays in the evenings hold various dances, from
tango and salsa to swing. Admission is free, starting around
21:30 - 22:00. If you are in the mood for some rock, and
yet love billiards, visit Mr. Q (J-3) (Mon - Sun 12:00 - 01:00;
rental price from 12:00 - 19:00 is 25kn/h, from 19:00 - 01:00
is 35kn/h) or the Metropolis club (I-5) (Mon - Thu 09:00 -
02:00, Fri - Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00; rental price at
happy hour Mon - Fri 09:00 - 19:00 is 20kn/h, usually 40kn/h
or per min), as well as live music and some of the top games
on professional tables.
And for those craving a completely new experience whilst
simultaneously helping save the world from total destruc-
tion, or even land on the moon and leave their mark, then try
the new adrenaline craze called Room Escape (D-3) (Mon
- Fri 12:30 - 21:30, Sat 11:00 - 21:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:00; 60 min
game in one of two rooms (the bunker or zombie lab) with a
team of 2-5 players, it costs 350kn per session and should be
pre-booked by phone or via www.roomescape.hr).
There is also the Legame Studio (I-3) (Mon - Fri 13:00 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 20:00; 30kn for a simulation up to 15 minutes, in
pairs 100kn/2 simulations up to 15 minutes each, groups 2-5
persons 280kn with unlimited number of simulations up to
60 minutes). These are the latest two new attractions to the
city, animation type games taken to the next level.
As can be seen, Zagreb during winter offers everything to
help us stay strong and fit. Yet at the same time peace and
quiet can be found here, a hidden corner in which to simply
enjoy a good book or magazine. In the heart of the city, for
example, you can find the Playground Café (C-1), equipped
for parents with children and lovers of books, unless you have
possibly purchased a top novel at the main railway station
(C-4) where a Library ATM has recently been stationed!
Zrinjevac - Photo by Mario Radaković
Zagreb City MuseumArchives
Santa Claus at the Museumof Illusions
Ice Park on King Tomislav Square - Katapult Promocija Archives
Photo by Željko Krčadinac
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2015/2016 13 zagreb.inyourpocket.com 12 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Chasing Winter Chasing Winter
CLASSICAL MUSIC
CONCERTS
30.01 SATURDAY
THE VIENNA BOYS’ CHOIR - SO LITTLE, YET SO
BIG
Don’t be fooled by their looks otherwise you’ll think these
boys ought to be cuddling teddy bears. Far from the truth,
they are a rasping group of 25 choristers and considered
one of the world’s finest boys’ choirs; they resurrect the
best of Mozart, Schubert, Haydn, Rossini and etc.QI-3,
Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4,
www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 120 -
200kn.
27.02 SATURDAY
THE CZECH PHILHARMONIC - PROJECT
DVOŘÁK
A beautiful evening, at Lisinski, with the Czech Philhar-
monic Orchestra concert, conducted by Jiří Belohlávek, is
an event you don’t want to miss out on seeing this win-
ter.QI-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana
Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tick-
ets 160 - 240kn.
OPERA, OPERETTA & BALLET
06.02 SATURDAY
WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART - THE MAR-
RIAGE OF FIGARO
The Marriage of Figaro was composed by Wolfgang Ama-
deus Mozart and is composed of four acts. The story is told
around a single “day of madness” in the palace of Count
Almaviva near Seville, Spain and continues the plot of The
Barber of Seville several years later. Don’t miss out on see-
ing this timeless tale.QB-3, Croatian National Theatre,
Trg maršala Tita 15, www.hnk.hr.
08.02 MONDAY
LISINSKI ARIOSO - ELĪNA GARANČA
Don’t miss out on seeing one of today’s greatest opera
singers, Elina Garanča. This talented Latvian will keep you
mesmerized all night long with her beautiful voice.QI-3,
Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4,
www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 260 -
320kn.
14.02 SUNDAY
LISINSKI ARIOSO - THOMAS HAMPSON
Baritone American singer Thomas Hampson has sang in
opera houses around the world and this winter he’ll be
coming to Zagreb. Come out and see this spectacular
singer for yourself.QI-3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall,
Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.lisinski.hr. Concert starts at
19:30. Tickets 260 - 320kn.
19.03 SATURDAY
SERGEJ SERGEJEVIČ PROKOFJEV - PATRICE
BART: ROMEO AND JULIET
Romeo and Juliet is a ballet by Sergej Sergejevič Prokofev,
which is based on William Shakespeare’s play Romeo
and Juliet and tells the tragic tale of lovers from Verona.
Prokofev’s musical interpretation of the play has inspired
many generations of choreographers and directors. In
this presentation of one of the world’s most famous love
stories, the choreography will be directed by Patrice Bart.
QB-3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15,
www.hnk.hr.
ROCK & POP CONCERTS
18.12 2015 FRIDAY - 19.12 2015 SATURDAY
PARNI VALJAK
To celebrate their 40th anniversary, famous Croatian band,
Parni Valjak, will hold two concerts this December at Za-
greb’s Dom Sportova. This band was top of the rock scene
in former Yugoslavia and still is, in Croatia, today.QH-3,
Dom sportova Sports Centre, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11.
Concerts start at 20:00. Tickets 130 - 150kn.
05.02 FRIDAY
THE BAMBI MOLESTERS FEAT. NIGHT BEATS
The band was born in 1995 in the industrial town of Sisak -
hardly the most obvious location for a group playing music
more commonly associated with the sun and sand of the
Californian coast. The Molesters have remained true to the
surf template throughout their career, although they are a
long way from being a show band reeling out retro clas-
sics. Gritty garage punk, spacey psychedelia and lushly ar-
ranged passages of spaghetti-western soundtrack all serve
to fill out the sound. They will be joined by Night Beats, one
of the best American psycho surf rock bands.QE-3, Tvor-
nica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture.com.
Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 70 - 90kn.
09.02 TUESDAY
MASSIMO
One of Croatia’s highly regarded pop-rock singers who has
produced chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a good
wine, Massimo seems to get better with time. Many declare
him to be Croatia’s David Bowie with startling resemblanc-
es in voice. His newly released and long awaited album ‘Je-
dan dan ljubavi’, ‘One day of Love’ has received rave reviews
and he brings his emotional tunes to Vatroslav Lisinski Con-
cert Hall what should be a night to remember.QI-3, Vatro-
slav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.
lisinski.hr. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 120 - 250kn.
12.02 FRIDAY
LET 3
Get a taste of vintage Croatian rock that may leave your
ears and eyes polarised. Sure, Let 3 can pelt out their chart
topping hits and really explode on stage, at the same time
they are known to resort to nudity and simulate some
obscene moves on stage. Either way, punters are in for a
real show!QH-3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11.
Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 80kn for 2 persons.
20.02 SATURDAY
SILENTE
Young Dubrovnik pop rock group Silente caught the atten-
tion of both the Croatian media and public with their first
hit single ‘Terca na tišinu’ which topped national charts and
won awards in 2013/2014. Silente was nominated for many
national music awards.QH-3, Dom sportova (Small hall),
Trg krešimira Ćosića 11. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
60 - 85kn.
27.02 SATURDAY
NENO BELAN & FIUMENS
Croatian rock musician Neno Belan is a must-see this winter.
His sunny upbeat music and charm will chase away your
winter blues.QH-3, Dom sportova Sports Centre, Trg
Krešimira Ćosića 11. Concert starts at 20:30. Tickets 75kn.
05.03 SATURDAY
ELEMENTAL
Elemental, a hip-hop group from Zagreb, will hold a spec-
tacular concert on March 5th, referred to as ‘Day E,’ at the
Dom Sportova, to celebrate 18 great years of their musical
career. 2016 will mark the release of their 7th album, one
of their most important works yet.QH-3, Dom sportova
Sports Centre, Trg Krešimira Ćosića 11. Concert starts at
21:00. Tickets 55kn.
08.03 TUESDAY
TONY CETINSKI
Some say that getting to the top is easy, but staying there is
even harder. Tony Cetinski has reached and remained at the
top of Croatian music for over a decade now and he contin-
ues to belt pop rock hits to ballads with his husky rock vocals
and melodies.QH-5, Arena Zagreb, Ulica Vice Vukova 8.
Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 120 - 200kn.
P.I. Tchaikovsky - The Nutcracker, Croatian National Theatre (Photo by Novković)
www.inyourpocket.com
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2015/2016 15 zagreb.inyourpocket.com 14 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Culture & Events Culture & Events
DANCE
19.12 2015 SATURDAY - 20.12 2015 SUNDAY
BOLERO DANCE FESTIVAL
This is one exciting event you don't want to miss. Come out
to the Bolero Dance Festival and show your support for the
very first same-sex dance competition in not only Croatia,
but in all of Eastern Europe. Taking place at the Westin Ho-
tel, the festival will feature both Female and Male, Latin
and Ballroom dances.QA-3, The Westin Zagreb, Izidora
Kršnjavoga 1, www.bolero-dance-festival.com.
14.01 THURSDAY - 16.01 SATURDAY
ALIEN
This beautiful performance has been in the making for a
long time. Creating a solo performance is no easy task and
Maša Kolar will delight you with this wonderful piece as
she emerges in her first solo performance and finds her
bearing in new and foreign territory.QC-2, Zagreb Dance
Centre, Ilica 10, www.plesnicentar.info.
EXHIBITIONS
21.02 2015 SATURDAY - 10.01 2016 SUNDAY
THE ALPHABET OF MONEY
From children to adults, this exhibit gives visitors the ‘big
picture’ about money. More so, it teaches kids many skills
through interactive ways. Upon entry, they receive their
own interactive bank cards and begin the process of cash
flow as they visit and choose to save or buy at stations.
From how to wash gold to trading stocks, there is much to
see and learn.QA-4, Technical Museum, Savska cesta 18,
www.tehnicki-muzej.hr.
14.11 2015 SATURDAY - 03.01 2016 SUNDAY
EDO MURTIĆ - CERAMICS
Edo Murtić (1921 - 2005) was well-known for his passion
for ceramics. This winter don’t miss out on visiting the
‘New Abstraction’ series at the Museum of Arts and Crafts,
which will present Murtić’s most recent work in ceramics,
his beautiful murals, as well as models and sketches he
created in the period between 1998 - 2000, which never
saw their realization.QB-3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg
maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr.
19.11 2015 THURSDAY - 10.01 2016 SUNDAY
PAVLE BELJANSKI COLLECTION – PEARLS OF
MODERNIST ART
Art afficiadoes can see a cross-section of the extraordinary
Pavle Beljanski Memorial Collection by the famous art col-
lector and diplomat from Novi Sad. What makes this exhi-
bition even more special is the chance to see the famous
painting ‘Velika Iza’ from 1882 and by Croatia’s very own
Vlaho Bukovac.QC-3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava
22, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.
11.12 2015 FRIDAY - 31.05 2016 TUESDAY
MAGICAL COMPANY - BELIEFS IN SUPERNATU-
RAL BEINGS IN THE PODRAVINA AREA
This exciting exhibition is divided according to supernatural
beings, from elves and fairies, to witches and many other
legendary characters. The exhibition will show the trans-
formation of these supernatural characters through time,
from traditional folk legends to our modern pop culture.
The characters, photographed by award-winning photog-
rapher Iva Lulić, will be displayed in their natural fairytale
forest environment.QB-3, Ethnographic Museum, Trg
Mažuranića 14, www.emz.hr.
26.01 TUESDAY - 20.03 SUNDAY
JOHANNES KOMMERSTEINER AND HIS CIRCLE
Johannes Kommersteiner, from Zagreb, is the most impor-
tant sculptor of the Baroque period from mainland Croatia.
He is well-known for decorating the interior of the Zagreb
Cathedral and also working on the Jesuit Church of St. Cath-
erine, at the end of the 17th century.QB-3, Arts and Crafts
Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr.
26.01 TUESDAY - 26.02 FRIDAY
SCULPTURES AND NUDITY - CORPOREALITY
AND EROTICA IN WORKS BY IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ
At this interesting exhibition the subject of nudity and
eroctisim will be explored in the artwork by Ivan Meštrović,
one of the greatest sculptors of the 20th century. The
wide range of drawings and sculptures will focus on his
work from 1903 - 1946 through three parts and will deal
with topics, such as the “ugliness” of nudity, ancient nudity
and female nudity.QI-2, The Glyptotheque of the Croa-
tian Academy of Sciences and Arts, Medvedgradska 2,
gliptoteka.mdc.hr.
30.01 SATURDAY - 06.03 SUNDAY
CYCLE - PRIVATE COLLECTIONS IN A PUBLIC
INSTITUTION - MASTERPIECES FROM THE
HANŽEKOVIĆ COLLECTION
This exhibition will present a high-quality collection from
the prominent lawyer Marijan Hanžeković. The collection
contains relevant paintings and sculptures from the end of
the 19th and 20th centuries, by artists such as Vlaho Buko-
vac, Mato Celestin Medović, Menci Clement Crnčić, Marijan
Trepše and many more. Interestingly enough, the Art Pavil-
ion, was created specifically for the exhibition of Croatian
modern artists so this is the best possible environment for
exhibiting these art collections.QC-3, Art Pavilion, Trg
kralja Tomislava 22, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.
END OF FEBRUARY
ZAGREB INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE - THE TIME OF
GIANTS
This exhibition will present Zagreb as one of the industrial
centers of Socialist Yugoslavia, as well as its industrial heri-
tage after the year 1945. The exhibition is the final part of
the Zagreb Industrial Heritage project.QC-1, Zagreb City
Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz.hr.
twitter.com/
inyourpocket
Elemental - Photo by Maja Bota
Elina Garanča - Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall Archives
The Vienna Boys’ Choir - Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall Archives
Fairies’ Wheel - Magical Company - Beliefs in Supernatural Beings in the
Podravina Area (Photo by Iva Lulić, Ethnographic MuseumArchives)
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2015/2016 17 zagreb.inyourpocket.com 16 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Culture & Events Culture & Events Culture & Events
11.03 FRIDAY - 24.04 SUNDAY
BACHRACH & KRIŠTOFIĆ
As part of the local art scene, Sanja Bachrach and Mario
Krištofić, are one of the most popular artist couples and
are well-known for their rock and roll style, which comes
to life in their designs and photography. This exhibition will
display different works from their 35 year career.QB-3, Arts
and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.muo.hr.
15.03 TUESDAY - 10.04 SUNDAY
DRAŽEN TROGRLIĆ - MONOGRAPHIC EXHIBI-
TION - PAINTINGS, DRAWINGS, WATERCOLORS,
PRINTS, SCULPTURES 2000-2015
At this exhibition, more than one hundred different works,
including paintings, drawings, watercolors, prints and
sculptures from the period 2000 - 2015 by the artist Dražen
Trogrlić will be presented. Don’t miss out on seeing these
great works by this modern artist.QC-3, Modern Gallery,
Andrije Hebranga 1, www.moderna-galerija.hr.
18.03 FRIDAY - 17.04 SUNDAY
DALIBOR MARTINIS - DM 2016 TALKS WITH DM
2077
This project was specifically designed for the Art Pavilion
in which Dalibor Martinis questions and analyzes the world
of media. Martinis is one of the most prominent contem-
porary Croatian artists and one of the pioneers of video art
in Croatia. His work includes a variety of videos and perfor-
mances in public spaces and has been displayed in many
prominent art centers, such as the Kunsthaus in Zürich and
the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam.QC-3, Art Pavilion,
Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.
SPECIAL EVENTS
03.01 SUNDAY - 06.01 WEDNESDAY
AUDI FIS SKI WORLD CUP VIP SNOW QUEEN
TROPHY 2016
The annual Snow Queen Trophy skiing competition is back.
As always, top athletes will swish and swoosh on Medvedni-
ca, the mountain above Zagreba, in the men’s and women’s
slalom races. Don’t miss out on this adrenaline packed event.
QSljeme, www.vipsnowqueentrophy.com.
29.01 FRIDAY
THE NIGHT OF THE MUSEUM
Forget the winter chill and enter a world of nostalgia, his-
tory and tradition! Enter a world of cultural establishment
as all museums have a free entry from 18:00 to 01:00 that
evening. The Croatian Museum’s Society has once again
organised a fantastic exhibition programme as well as
educational and entertainment programmes.Qwww.
nocmuzeja.hr.
TRIANGULIZONA
TrianguliZona will mark the tenth anniversary of their
first show held in 2005. Since then, the band has per-
formed at many festivals at home and abroad and
served as a conceptual starting point for later formed
bands (Capisconne, Chui, Sunrise Sessions, Sonic Dip-
tych, etc.). Not to mention audiovisual projects which
include: 52 Weeks, Happily Ever After and more… But
despite various changes, TrianguliZona still remains
committed to its original concept of collective impro-
visation and the dynamics between audio and visual
communication. At this celebratory concert involv-
ing Andrej Jakuš (trumpet, electronics), Ivan Kapec
(guitar), Janko Novoselić (drums) and Vladimir Končar
(video), the latest works of their colleague from Japan,
electronics Sunao Inami will be presented.
Triangulizona (Triangular zones) refers to three distinct
but interdependent dimensions; image, sound and
time. The group began as an experiment with only a
few artists and slowly formed into an exciting genre
which is difficult to resist by both performers and au-
dience. The magic of this live experience is based on
a culture of listening, ambient soundscapes and the
visual universe in which we are, thanks to new tech-
nologies, drawn sometimes against our own will. In
response to so much information, one instinct is cre-
ated, an ‘instant’ conception that is not burdened with
the preservation and accumulation of artistic artifacts
than to contrast and reject. Hence, why it can be said
that we are entering a dynamic zone which leaves
traces with no marks! The artists participating in this
event are known in the alternative scene. Don’t miss
their concert, 14th December at Student’s Centre
(Savska cesta 25).
www.inyourpocket.com
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
zagreb.inyourpocket.com 18 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
30.01 SATURDAY
#DRITOIZTVORNICE
Belgrade hip-hop legends Prti Bee Gee will be hosting
a spectacular show this January. They are well-known
in Belgrade underground rap circles and have won over
audiences in neighbouring countries, such as Croatia
and Bosnia. They have release one album, ‘‘Grejtest Hits,’’
which has captured their audience. Other performers see
at: www.tvornicakulture.com.QE-3, Tvornica Kulture,
Šubićeva 2, www.tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts
at 21:00. Tickets 50 - 70kn.
21.02 SUNDAY - 28.02 SUNDAY
ZAGREBDOX FESTIVAL
The most beloved time of the year for film buffs is here
once again! ZagrebDox, an international documentary
film festival, has been taking place from the end of Febru-
ary since 2005. Over 150 national and international docu-
mentary productions, including some of the world’s best
films, awarded at the most prestigious festivals, will be
shown in cinemas at the Centre Kaptol along with work-
shops and lectures.QC-1, Cineplexx Cinema, Nova Ves
17 (Kaptol Centre), www.zagrebdox.net.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL TREASURY
Visitors to Croatia are keenly aware that it is a country of
great heritage, with significant lumps of past civilizations
lying around in its major cities. So near to Zagreb and yet
so frequently overlooked, the Andautonija Archeological
Park (www.andautonia.com) displays the excavated re-
mains of a Roman-era town in the middle of the village
of Ščitarjevo, 20km southeast of the capital. Although
lacking in the drama of amphitheatres or well-preserved
temples, everything else you would expect from a Ro-
man town is here, including remnants of shopping
streets, bathhouse complexes and scraps of mosaic. Ar-
chaeological exhibitions from November to April.
17.11 2015 TUESDAY - 06.03 2016 SUNDAY
IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF ROMAN AGRIMEN-
SORES
This exhibition will deal with Roman history in the re-
gion of Istria and will also cover the history of the geo-
detic instruments used during this time period, such
as the groma. In Roman times, Roman surveyors were
called “agrimensores”, a term which means “measurers
of land.’’ This educational exhibition will explain how
these ancient tools were used.QA-4, Technical Mu-
seum - Nikola Tesla, Savska cesta 18, www.tehnicki-
muzej.hr.
11.12 2015 FRIDAY - 23.04 2016 SATURDAY
AQUAE IASAE - RECENT DISCOVERIES
OF ROMAN REMAINS IN THE REGION OF
VARAŽDINSKE TOPLICE
In the Varaždin spa region, where there is a medicinal
thermal water spring, Roman Aquae Iasae settlements
from the 1st - 4th century can be found. Here a com-
plex in various stages of construction was discovered,
which consists of baths and temples that were built
around the natural spring. This exhibition will pres-
ent recent research results, from 2011 - 2013, of nu-
merous inscriptions, sculptures, reliefs and Romans
coins which were discovered.QC-2, Archaeological
Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19,
www.amz.hr.
JANUARY
THE BUDINJAK NECROPOLIS 1995-2014
Budinjak is located in the central area of the Žumberak
Mountains at a height of 740 m above sea level, about
50 km west of Zagreb. Near the village a plateau is
located where there is a large necropolis burial mound
from the early Iron Age. These findings represent the
remains of the Hallstatt culture and show the eco-
nomic wealth and strength of this Iron Age population
to be one of the richest Iron Age findings in the south-
eastern area.QC-1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička
20, www.mgz.hr.
JANUARY - FEBRUARY
VELA ŠPILJA - KORČULA BC
The project “Korčula BC” aims to promote, protect and
preserve the culture at the Vela Špilja on Korčula Island.
Thanks to the excavations performed at the Vela Špilja,
life from the end of the last Ice Age to the present day
is able to be reconstructed. Research has been going
on in this area since 1974 and it’s claimed that ‘‘virtually
the entire history of mankind can be read in one place,
in the 11-meter thick layer wall.’’QC-1, Klovićevi dvori
Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.gkd.hr.
Apolon, Aquae Iasae - Recent Discoveries of Roman Remains in
the Region of Varaždinske Toplice (Archaeological Museum in
Zagreb Archives)
zagreb.inyourpocket.com 20 Zagreb In Your Pocket Autumn 2015 20
Culture & Events
JAZZ & BLUES CONCERTS
The beauty of jazz is that it can be any tempo, texture, or
rhythm, and it leaves room for improvisation where the mu-
sician or group ‘go wild, go all out, and revel in showing off
their talents’. We know this ohhh too well which explains why
this Winter’s Zagreb Calendar is so jazzalicious!
02.02 TUESDAY
JAMES CARTER ORGAN TRIO
Although he is often proclaimed as the best baritone saxo-
phonist in the world, James Carter also plays the sopranino,
soprano, alto, tenor and bass saxophone, clarinet, bass clari-
net and flute with equal skill and mastery. His music style
ranges from funk to bebop and gypsy swing and he has
throughout his career recorded several albums. Don’t miss
out on seeing his Organ Trio, which is known as one of the
most exciting bands in today’s jazz scene.QI-3, Vatroslav
Lisinski (Small Concert Hall), Trg Stjepana Radića 4, www.
jazz.hr. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100kn.
03.02 WEDNESDAY
HRT JAZZ ORCHESTRA - AN EVENING WITH
ARSEN
Unique artist Arsen Dedić (1938 - 2015) always found the
time for a new musical reinterpretation. Conducted by Sil-
vije Glojnarić, HRT Jazz Orchestra will bring to life Arsen’s
powerful music once again.QJ-4, Gorgona Hall (Contem-
porary Art Museum), Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.jazz.hr.
Concert starts at 20:00.
02.03 WEDNESDAY
HRT JAZZ ORCHESTRA FEAT. NEUMEISTER AND
ELLINGTON / STRAYHORN
Come check out one of the most prominent jazz musicians
of our time, jack-of-all-traits, trombonist, composer,
conductor and educator Ed Neumeister in his debut per-
formance with the HRT Jazz Orchestra. The performance
will include, ‘‘A Nightingale Sang in Berkeley Square,’’ which
won him a Grammy nomination in 1991.QJ-4, Gorgona
Hall (Contemporary Art Museum), Avenija Dubrovnik 17,
www.jazz.hr. Concert starts at 20:00.
10.03 THURSDAY
JEAN-LUC PONTY DUO (JEAN-LUC PONTY / WIL-
LIAM LECOMTE)
Famous jazz rock violinist Jean-Luc Ponty will be perform-
ing with pianist William Lecomte, at Lisinski, in a concert.
Ponty’s career skyrocketed after performing at the concert
“Violin Summit” with Svend Asmussen, Stephane Grappelli
and Stuff Smith and as a result became a member of the
elite group of jazz violinists. This versatile musician excels at
both the acoustic and electric violin and performs simulta-
neously with both jazz and rock musicians, as well as sym-
phony orchestras. This remarkable artist is a must-see!QI-3,
Vatroslav Lisinski Small Concert Hall, Trg Stejpana Radića
4, www.jazz.hr. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100kn.
06.04 WEDNESDAY
HRT JAZZ ORCHESTRA FEAT. TERELL STAFFORD
- THE CAT
Terell Stafford a trumpeter, composer, bandleader and edu-
cator from New York, will be performing some of his newest
compositions with HRT Jazz Orchestra this spring. This tal-
ented musician is head of the Jazz Orchestra of Philadelphia
and a Lecturer at the Temple University, and has performed
with famous groups, such as the Grammy-winning Van-
guard Orchestra.QJ-4, Gorgona Hall, Contemporary Art
Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.jazz.hr. Concert
starts at 20:00.
CARNIVAL TIME
The flair, the glare, the excitement and the dazzling costumes
are just some of the elements we consider to be a part of any
carnival. Well, behold, dear readers, as your traditional car-
nival in Croatia includes not only these glittering essentials
but also something different, something spooky, something
quite hair-raising, in fact. You may be scared right now but
let us tell you that this is a great time to be in Croatia, as you
can join the locals in scattering evil ghosts and releasing a
year’s worth of frustrations all under the cover of fancy dress.
This is, indeed, taken to be the norm, a ritual intended to
cleanse your soul before the warm season of spring arrives.
You see, carnival season is connected with ancient traditions
from these areas that go back to the Middle Ages. Accord-
ing to Slavic pagan customs, carnivals would begin closer
to the beginning of the year when locals would parade the
streets, marching and cheering, they’d attend masquerades,
fancy dress balls, wear costumes and sing to drive away evil
spirits. This would carry on all the way to Shrove Tuesday, the
day before Lent - the time of fasting, a time of moving away
from our wrong doings and preparing for Easter. Quite often
the final day of celebrations finish with the ceremonial judg-
ment of an imaginary character blamed for everything bad
that has happened over the past year. In the Zagreb region
this individual is styled on a prince and is named the fašnik,
though his moniker is different in other parts of the coun-
try. But wherever you go, he is the one who represents all
our problems, troubles and miseries, who takes the blame
and is then symbolically burned in a blazing bonfire. A little
harsh, you say? Not in the least! Nowadays, carnivals around
the country intertwine the customs of old with the fun and
glamour of the present day. Everyone is welcome as the
carnivals include all generations, with some wholehearted
devotees preparing for the show all year round. You’ll see the
evidence of this in the magnificent costumes that are worn,
some traditional and others so wacky that they would make
fashion designers dance with glee.
Most of the carnivals take place at weekends and consist
of a plethora of activities ranging from masquerade balls,
carnival parades, exhibitions, tours, sporting events, dandy
rituals and other celebrations. Needless to say, the amount
of food and drink consumed at such events is astonishing,
but at least you get to taste an array of gastronomic delights.
Every region has its own customs, so wherever you happen
to be, why not join in the fun, embrace the spirit of carnival
and experience it in a unique way. Let’s get an insight into
what’s happening and where...
In and around Zagreb
06.02 SATURDAY - 07.02 SUNDAY
LIVING PICTURES
Reinvigorate the past! Relive some tales of Old Zagreb dur-
ing the last weekend before Lent at this costume party held
at the Zagreb City Museum. Don’t be surprised when you
come across some famous characters from the city’s earlier
period who will tell you their own stories. Q Zagreb City
Museum C-1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61,
www.mgz.hr
The idyllic little town of Samobor is just a few kilometers
away from Zagreb and has one of Croatia’s most popular and
longest-running carnivals. Festivities begin on 29th Janu-
ary and run through to 09th February. Good old Prince
Fašnik is blamed for all the misfortunes in the region and
is of course punished by being burnt in a bonfire. It’s witty
and political as there is a judge and lawyer who defend the
Prince by satirising current affairs in a highly humorous way.
There will be food and mulled wine on the square, competi-
tions, fancy dress parades, a costume ball - and lots of wild
behaviour! Samoborček buses leave from the Zagreb Bus
Station. For further information, visit the www.fasnik.com
In Rijeka
By far the biggest and most popular carnival of all in Croatia!
In fact, according to the Sunday Times Newspaper, the Rije-
ka Carnival is one of the most exotic of these world events
that happen at the beginning of each year. This sea-side city
has a chill in the air at this time of year, but the carnival tradi-
tions that date back to the Middle Ages certainly hot things
up. The Rijeka Carnival has become an international event
with over ten thousand participants and more than a hun-
dred floats and carts from dozens of different countries. The
Children’s Carnival parade (30th January) has the cutie-
pie factor, while the International Parade (07th Febru-
ary) is nothing short of spectacular with over one hundred
thousand people attending. The traditional costumes from
the local area are spectacular, so do head down to the coast
and indulge in the chance to enjoy a cup of coffee in the
winter sun. Don’t let distance deter you from coming as the
trip from Zagreb now takes under two hours by car; buses
take 2-3 hours and trains rather longer. See the official carni-
val homepage www.ri-karneval.com.hr for further details.
James Carter (Jazz.hr - HDS Archives)
Rijeka Carnival (Rijeka Tourist Board Archives)
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com 22 Zagreb In Your Pocket Winter 2015/2016 23
Culture & Events Culture & Events
INSIDER TIPS BY LOCALS
We asked locals - who live or work in Zagreb
- to give us a few tips on how to enrich your
stay in this city and make it that bit more
DORA FANJEK
Owner of Silver Club
ZIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or
go out at night?
Dora: I rarely go out at night so I’m not an expert to rec-
ommend a place for nightlife. I prefer to spend my time
meeting people for a coffee. Our Balkan tradition of
spending several hours drinking coffee can be seen in the
endless sea of cafes all over the city. I am the most fond of
the ones on Flower Square (Cvjetni trg) (C-2). Along with a
good cup of coffee, I like to people-watch from a peaceful
spot and enjoy urban life.
ZIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Za-
greb?
Dora: When the form of relaxation that I want is not sip-
ping coffee with friends, I like to go to a park. Zagreb has
so many beautiful parks. Maksimir (K-2) is a true oasis in the
centre for those who want to get away from city noise and
hide under a little greenery. Also, for all those adventur-
ous souls, the centre and its surrounding area is ideal for
exploring this small hidden oasis.
ZIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which
activities do you recommend?
Dora: The best way is to walk. By any other way you sim-
ply cannot take in Zagreb’s beauty. Our town is beautiful.
A lot of people fail to look up while walking the city and
miss the beautiful facades, roofs, and ornaments on the
facades. The artistic history of Zagreb is hidden in the ar-
chitecture and should not be ignored. It is especially nice
to get some ice cream in one of the pastry shops and then
take a stroll to explore Zagreb.
ZIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do
you recommend as a souvenir from Zagreb?
Dora: As a child of the shopping centre, I recommend
to go shopping in one of the big centres. Whoever loves
fast movement, the smell of new stores, and fast food will
equally enjoy Arena, Westgate, and other places. It may
not be particularly appealing for a tourist, but you return
home full of bags with a big smile. As a souvenir, I believe
that the most popular are the Licitar Hearts (gingerbread
hearts), but I think it is interesting to find an older jewellery
shop in town where you can buy bracelets with a Licitar
Heart pendant or Šestine umbrellas! That is a souvenir that
might be forgotten in an old drawer...
ZIYP: Which of the local specialities do you recom-
mend as a “must-try” for visitors?
Dora: I personally love sweets! Every time I travel I’m sure
to try some authentic sweet delicacies. Whether it’s cake,
ice cream, or some other dessert. One of my favourite
places in Zagreb where I like to treat myself with a sweet
delight is Kraš. The taste of our delicious Bajadere is para-
dise for the palate!
MARTINA ČIČKO KARAPETRIĆ
& MORANA SARAČEVIĆ
Owners of Atelier Boudoir
ZIYP: Martina and Morana, when atelier Boudoir is
first mentioned, often the first thing that comes to
mind is your distinctive handwriting design. But
the whole story began in the 80s with your grand-
mother. It is known that Zagreb’s crafts are a part of
Croatian cultural heritage, and you’re a part of that
too. Can you tell us how it all began?
Martina and Morana: Our grandmother, Đurđica Čičko,
was a known figure of Zagreb when it came to design and
craft, making hats the old fashioned way. From an early
age we were surrounded by hats, our grandmother cre-
ated glamorous collections of hats for renowned city fash-
ion boutiques, these were disclosed at fashion shows at
the Esplanade and the Golden Needle, which in the eight-
ies were at their peak. Our grandmother pretty much daz-
zled us with the fashion world and although still young,
by the age of 7 we started going to her fashion studio and
slowly began to learn, and absorb everything around us.
This entire experience wasn’t just comprised of skills in
craft; we learnt the basics in aesthetics but also in how to
deal with customers.
ZIYP: Tell us about today’s Boudoir. You are one of
the few designers who at the same time hold a status
as artists.
Martina and Morana: In the 15 years that we’ve been
working here, Boudoir has advanced indeed. We try to
move forward with every new collection and surpass even
ourselves. Often within our artistic creations we incorpo-
rate elements that may not be so commercial, but that the
audience ultimately recognises. The presentation of our
collections is also a story in itself; we try to evoke, show-
case our collections in a way that is completely different
from the reality of everyday life and in typically clichéd
fashion ways. As a rule, we work with an extraordinary
photographer named Mladen Šarić, who in the best way
possible; knows how to evoke everything we wish to ex-
press through our creations.
ZIYP: On the other hand, we believe that even those
who perhaps are not so interested in fashion would
find it quite appealing to hear that you are part of
the virtual world,‘Second Life’. What is happening in
this parallel world for you now?
Martina and Morana: Second Life is our virtual art plat-
form on which we can create whatever our imagination
desires, but in which reality generally hampers.
ZIYP: What about the fashion industry in Croatia?
How is it developing? Every dress in your boutique
is handmade which requires hours of work, precise
modelling, cutting, sewing, and is an original Croa-
tian product. Do you think we have a chance of be-
coming a fashion ‘destination’, where people come
to Zagreb for that exact reason?
Martina and Morana: The fashion industry is still dor-
mant, but there are a few designers who still products
industrial collections. We are basically manufactures, but
in saying that we also have daily regulars which we con-
tinuously produce in Croatia. Zagreb really has plenty of
fashionable address, and a lot to offer people of differ-
ent tastes. We believe that our city is slowly beginning to
come to life on Europe’s fashion map.
ZIYP: You have started your own sporting collection
named ‘Fiskultura’, which is available on line. In con-
clusion, can you tell us how you actually wear your
sports collection?
Martina and Morana: We are very happy that we have
launched a commercial line; our work is now much more
available whilst at the same time it was a challenge to cre-
ate and explore anew market. Our daily pieces are very
easy to combine with any basic wardrobe, just as jeans,
any general t-shirt, classic pants or a blouse...
interesting.
Boudoir FW’015, Photo by Mladen Šarić
Boudoir Exhibition - Photo by Petra Messioptra
Dora Fanjek
Istria Square - Arena Centar Archives
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2015/2016 25 zagreb.inyourpocket.com 24 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Zagreb Pulse Zagreb Pulse
CROATIAN
BURIN
An unassuming exterior makes the wealth of local tastes
awaiting within this tavern (konoba) an even greater de-
light. The seafood focus of their authentic Dalmatian spe-
cialties includes fresh fish on display. Catch the cod dishes
(bakalar) while they’re in-season and complete your taste
of coastal dining with Croatian wines and deserts like the
flan-esque rožata.QJ-3, Heinzelova 28, tel. (+385-1) 461
22 42, www.restoran-burin.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. (50 - 150kn). P A G W
DIDOV SAN
Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef
and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style.
The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked
bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine se-
lection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva
28.QB-1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/
(+385-) 091 484 20 61, konoba@konoba-didovsan.com,
www.konoba-didovsan.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). P A L G W
ISABELLA
A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15
minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a converted
barn, with a superb raftered dining room, where they offer
up all kinds of meals with local and international accents
(such as fondue, flambeed dishes and chateaubriand).
The emphasis is definitely on meat - they have a game
section on the menu, and frogs’ legs. QVinogorska 55,
tel. (+385-1) 200 63 73, restaurant@isabella.hr, www.
restoran-isabella.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (65
- 110kn). P L N G B W
OKRUGLJAK
Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputa-
tion because of its star-studded ambience and food. At
the base of Medvednica.QD-2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1)
467 41 12, okrugljak@okrugljak.hr, www.okrugljak.hr.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn). P A L E G B W
STARI FIJAKER 900
A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favou-
rite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the pictur-
esque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town,
Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere
and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Za-
gorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array
of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers,
both domestic and international, is available in what is ap-
parently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls.QB-2, Mesnička
6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, info@
starifjaker.hr, www.starifjaker.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80kn). P A G X W
VINODOL
Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well
known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the
traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is
perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light
flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to
smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended.
QC-2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1)
481 13 41, vinodol@vinodol-zg.hr, www.vinodol-zg.hr.
Open 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). P J A 6 G B W 
MEET THE MEAT
BATAK GRILL
A full review for Batak would literally take pages. This
restaurant chain already covers most of the city. Highly
trained and polite staff, the menu is always being kept
fresh. A recommendation is close to impossible to pick,
but if pushed you simply have to try the mazalica with
urnebes. Divine.QK-2, Vlaška 115, tel. (+385-1) 466 43 31,
kvatric@batak-grill.hr, www.batak-grill.hr. Open 11:00 -
23:00. (35 - 70kn). P T A 6 V G B X S W
SEAFOOD
DUBRAVKIN PUT
Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to
this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall
entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood de-
lights. The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh
and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection
alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sun-
day best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable
fine-dining affair.QB-1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1)
483 49 75, info@dubravkin-put.com, www.dubravkin-
put.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 150kn).
P J A L G B W
KORČULA
Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery
as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been
doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to un-
derstand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to
have to go far to do it, this is your place.QC-2, Nikole Tesle
17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, boban.korcula@gmail.com,
www.restoran-korcula.hr. Open 10:30 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (70 - 120kn). P J A G B W
RIBICE I TRI TOČKICE
With colorfully whimsical, dream-like images of the Adri-
atic adorning each wall and window, treat all your senses
to a seaside dinner getaway at Fish and Three Dots in the
city’s center. Be sure to ask for the daily specials of fish, fish
and more fish offered at this seafood bistro that’s wrapped
in the heart-lifting artistry of Rijeka’s Vojo Radoičić.QC-2,
Ulica Petra Preradovića 7/1, tel. (+385-1) 563 54 79,
info@ribiceitritockice.hr,www.ribiceitritockice.hr.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 80kn). P J A G B W
INTERNATIONAL
AGAVA
Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria of-
fers Mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna,
plate salads and a great wine list.QC-2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel.
(+385-1) 482 98 26, info@restaurant-agava.hr, www.
restaurant-agava.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (57 - 290kn).
J A G B W
CARPACCIO
Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this
robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From
carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and comple-
mented from a near endless selection of wines. While
retaining an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly
renovated bistro-style interior playfully invites guests
to indulge and enjoy.QC-2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1)
482 23 31, carpaccio@ristorantecarpaccio.hr, www.
ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
(55 - 150kn). P J A G B W 
LE BISTRO
Legendary as a meeting and eating place, with the best
Zagorski štrukli in town (a local dish made with curd cheese,
cream and pastry). Otherwise, the menu mainly covers French
classic recipes: from Quiche Lorraine to Boeuf Bourgignon, and
superb desserts such as mousse au chocolat and tarte aux
pommes. And as a bonus, new to the menu are an assortment
of Korean dishes, thus the Esplanade has become the first hotel
in Croatia with a constant supply of Korean cuisine. All in all, it’s a
great place to go for a luscious light lunch or to breakfast in style.
You can buy the famous štrukli frozen to take home for just
30kn.QC-4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Zagreb Hotel), tel.
(+385-1) 456 66 11/(+385-1) 456 66 66, www.esplanade.hr.
Open 09:00 - 23:00. (130 - 195kn). P T A G B S W
MANO
Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this
a gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation.
The meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its
orientation - you´ll definitely find something that takes
you away from the run of the mill. Excellent wines. Reserve
in advance.QI-2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 94
32, mano@mano.hr, www.mano.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. (80 - 150kn). P A G B W
CHIC & CHEERFUL
CUŠPAJZ
Enjoy a warm and hearty stew, or as the Croatians like to call
it, cušpajz, in this quaint little restaurant which feels like a
vegetable garden and is a delight to dine in. Slurp your stew
as you snuggle into a cozy little alcove indoors or sit under
a shaded canvas outdoors enjoying the sites and sounds of
the downtown. Everyday you can choose between a veg-
gie or meat cušpajz dish. The menu changes daily so you'll
never get bored and will want to come back again and
again for more.QC-2, Ljudevita Gaja 9, tel. (+385-1) 487
50 45. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:30 - 18:00, Sat 11:30 -
17:00. Closed Sun. 38kn. P J N G B
Ana Grgić, Chef de Cuisine, Zinfandels Archives
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2015/2016 27 zagreb.inyourpocket.com 26 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Restaurants Restaurants
MALI BAR
Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot
carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed,
happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the
decor with over thirty business casual making up the ma-
jor hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a
tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD-2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-
1) 553 10 14. Open 12:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 90kn).
P A G B W
MUNDOAKA STREET FOOD
For an extraordinary meal experience in Zagreb, check
out Mundoaka Street Food. Conveniently located by the
Main Square, their dishes, from homemade pasta to steak
tartare and chicken salad, are all made with a tasty and
unique twist. But, don't get too attached to a single dish,
as the menu is constantly changing. Sit out on the patio
and people watch as you savour your meal or enjoy the
cozy and sleek white modern space indoors, adorned with
wine bottles. If you're in a hurry, simply grab some coffee
and cake for a scrumptious snack.QC-2, Petrinjska 2, tel.
(+385-1) 788 87 77, info@mundoakastreetfood.com.
Open 08:00 - 22:30, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. (40 - 90kn). P J A G B W
SHERRY'S WINE & BITES
Sherry's, once over by Dom Sportova, and now occupying
the former premises of Bistro Bardot in the courtyard fac-
ing Britanac. Here you could be excused for spending an
hour at least perusing the wines available, but it would be
an hour well spent. Croatian craft beer on tap, and some
vibrant and interesting items on the food menu. Try their
Sunday brunch, we think you'll be pleased.QA-2, Ilica 73
(in the yard), tel. (+385-1) 400 81 50/(+385-) 091 250 77
12, sherry@sherrys.eu, www.sherrys.eu. Open 10:00 -
24:00, Wed - Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (35 - 160kn). P T J
A 6 G B W
ETHNIC
ASIA
Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it's
also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the
landscaped Tomislav Square. There's none of the OTT de-
cor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact
it's perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently
top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at
Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD-3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel.
(+385-1) 484 12 18, rezervacije@asia.hr, www.asia.hr.
Open 11:30 - 23:00. (29 - 125kn). P A G W
CALIFORNIA BURRITO
Nestled neatly at the back of a courtyard, this eatery
should be considered an ideal place to stop at the end of
the night, or indeed as a quiet alternative to more central
locations. A wide selection of regional beers is available,
as well as one Mexican import, and is most suitable for a
Friday evening after-work wind-down.QB-2, Masarykova
11, tel. (+385-) 095 169 64 73, www.burrito.hr. Open
10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (19 - 29kn). P V N G B
S W
ROYAL INDIA
Located by the Zagreb Cathedral, Royal India is the perfect
place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine. Situated in
the basement, the scent of incense greets you at the door
and creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some samosas,
tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or car-
damom tea along with a wide variety of other delicious
PARADIGMA POP-UP
Split’s loss is Zagreb’s gain, as Paradigma ups roots and
moves inland for the winter months. The move, partly
to stay busy during a traditionally slow time on the
coast and partly to show Zagreb what it’s missing dur-
ing the rest of the year, has been welcomed broadly,
even by the inhabitants of Split, hungry as they must
be in the restaurant’s absence. Italian, Greek, Spanish
influences will be joined by new, as the chefs create
new dishes from the produce available in the Croa-
tian capital. This might lead to a more permanent ar-
rangement.QD-2, Vlaška 55, tel. (+385-21) 64 51 03/
(+385-) 099 817 07 11, zoran@paradox.hr, www.
restoranparadigma.hr/zagreb. Open Mon 18:00 -
22:00, Tue - Sat 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 22:00. Closed
Sun. Individual tasting menu, 3 to 8 courses (250 -
490kn). P J A G K
dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy because
unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food really is
spicy. Best of all, the extremely friendly staff recommends
the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for the day.
QC-1, Kaptol 27, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65, royalindiazg@
gmail.com, www.royal-india-zagreb.com. Open 12:00 -
23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (35 - 95kn). P J A G W
TAKENOKO SUSHI BAR
The Takenoko Sushi Bar is a brilliant addition to the din-
ing scene in town. It boasts an extensive sushi and wok
speciality menu and bonus, if you're a little unsure about
these things the menu defines them for you! The open in-
terior is in the art-design category that will trick you into
believing you're high-class. With a great wine list, sake
and a restroom so cool it can easily double as your free
dessert, we think you'll be quite thrilled if this is the one
you choose. CC only Visa. Also at Radnička 37b.QC-1, Nova
Ves 17 (Centar Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 05 30, japanski.
restaurant@takenoko.hr, www.takenoko.hr. Open
12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (70 - 180kn). P A
G W
TIME RESTAURANT & BAR
Time, in a classical sense, might be fleeting, but this place
certainly isn't. Perhaps better known to many as a great
bar, Time is also a restaurant serving Asian fusion food,
something not so common in Zagreb even a few years
ago. Whatever you order make sure you try the spring
rolls with duck.QC-2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36
60. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat
09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. P T J A G B K X
LUNCHES
BISTRO JADRANKA
Perhaps not exactly central, Bistro Jadranka is near enough
to the centre to be accessible, but far enough away that
your fellow guests are likely to be locals. Menu changes
each Monday, with extra fish dishes added each Friday.
Has an active Facebook account where you can find out
what’s available in a given week. You can pick your own
wine from the shop next door, and have it with your meal
for a small surcharge.QI-3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 56, tel.
(+385-1) 611 35 18. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. (30 - 129kn). P A B S
FAJN BISTRO
‘Fajn’ dining indeed here, as any regular will tell you. Well
known for its exceptionally friendly staff, Fajn is situated
in Zagreb’s Upper Town, well within striking distance of
a multitude of tourist sites, and Zagreb’s plentiful water-
ing holes. Mediterranean, international and contemporary
food is on offer, and the wine menu won’t disappoint. Ev-
erything’s worth trying, but winter is the time for pump-
kin soup!QB-1, Vranyczanyeva 6, tel. (385-1) 485 14 11,
kucahrane@gmail.com, www.fajnbistro.com.hr. Open
13:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (50 - 120kn). P T J A
L G B X W
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Restaurants Restaurants Restaurants
LATERAL
There’s a very good chance that this won’t be so much of
a secret for much longer. Situated behind the Main Bus
Station, Lateral is already getting pretty good press from,
for the most part it must be said, weary travellers glad of
being able to enjoy a proper meal, and still be near their
bus to the airport. The food, the desserts, the wine list…
No complaints can be had. The hot chocolate brownie is
definitely something that will draw you back for seconds.
QE-4, Strojarska 22, tel. (+385-1) 611 14 11/(+385-) 098
433 055, lateral@cateringlisak.hr, www.cateringlisak.
hr. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 150kn). P T
A U G B X W
PAUZA
The appropriately named Pauza will give the 30-some-
thing business crowd a pause from their working day in
a simple interior with a pleasant atmosphere. There are
daily specials and tasty desserts, all the right size for lunch.
And if the return trip to the office isn’t particularly press-
ing, there’s a fairly solid wine list to choose from, as well.
QC-3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 98, bistro.
pauza@email.t-com.hr, www.restaurant-pauza.com.
Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (50 -
70kn). P J A G B W
POD ZIDOM COFFEE, FOOD & WINE BAR
Pod Zidom (Under the Wall) is a wine bar and bistro right
in the heart of Zagreb. It offers dishes made from the fresh
groceries which it gets from the nearby Dolac market, a
wide selection of Croatian indigenous wines, as well as the
usual array of cocktails and refreshments. Pod Zidom is a
cozy terraced spot, ideal for those who enjoy the hustle
and bustle of a capital city, and who enjoy affordable Croa-
tian specialities. A must try is Ručak s Dolca (Lunch from
Dolac), as every ingredient is prepared with care, creativ-
ity, and love. From 11:00 to 23:00, every day, Pod Zidom
has a special a la carte menu, featuring beef carpaccio,
pork sliders, agnolotti with rabbit ragu, spring asparagus
and broad beans risotto, chicken drumstick-thigh cooked
in a vacuum, liquid chocolate cake. Pod Zidom also plays
host to live music during the week(end).QC-2, Pod Zidom
5, tel. (+385-) 098 66 96 90, info@podzidom.hr. Open
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (30 - 75kn). E B
PIZZA
FRANKY’S
Eat in or have it delivered, Franky’s is situated just north
of Zagreb’s nightlife district in the Kaptol Centre (2nd
floor), so is a handy place to grab a bite (and have a drink)
before heading home, and in relative peace and quiet
too. Do your shopping, settle in for a meal, enjoy a glass
of wine. Franky’s does white pizza, which is not always
something you’ll see in any pizzeria.QI-2, Nova ves 17,
tel. (+385-1) 486 08 34, mguberina2@gmail.com. Open
10:00 - 22:45. (22 - 63kn). P T J A U L V G B
X S W
KOD ŽACA
If you’ve not heard of this place then you’ve not spoken to
anyone living within its delivery radius. Known for its pizza
and lasagne you could probably eat here all month long
and still have something new to try. Zagreb is truly blessed
when it comes to pizza, and it’s nigh impossible to suggest
a must-try for here…but the biftek pizza probably edges
it.QJ-2, Nike Grškovića 4, tel. (+385-1) 468 41 78, www.
pizzakodzaca.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 70kn) . P T
6 V N G S W
O’HARA
O’Hara’s is well known throughout Zagreb, having seen their
pizza chefs win award after award, after award. The western
suburbs of the capital might seem an odd place for a pizzeria
such as this, but the locals aren’t complaining, and nor are the
many others who travel across the city to eat here. Everything
tastes divine, and while you might come away thinking you
could have eaten more, you will not feel the least bit hungry.
That’s a guarantee.QF-3, I.B.Mažuranić 1b, tel. (+385-1) 379
21 12, www.oharazagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed
Mon. (39 - 86kn). P T A G B X S
ZERO ZERO
Zero Zero sits near a corner of Vlaška, not far from the tram-
line, and it’s transport you’ll need after eating here…The
pizzas are HUGE, and taste of more. The food is Neapolitan,
and we’d love to tell you more about the décor and general
surrounds, but the meat and seafood pizzas kept the review-
ers glued to their plates. Great for dates, family gatherings,
or even a solo trip.QD-2, Vlaška 35, tel. (+385-1) 889 70 00.
Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (20 - 69kn). P T
J A U G B X W
VEGE RESTAURANTS
NISHTA
It's far from ništa (nothing) that you'll get here, should you
choose to forego meat for your meal. The menu has adequate
depth and variety, and you'll see a wonderful mix of cold raw,
and hot cooked vegetarian dishes. The menu also contains
vegan and gluten-free dishes for those more in tune with
Mother Nature. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made
juices that Nishta has to offer. Staff is very helpful and will as-
sist in choosing an option for those unfamiliar with vegetarian
repast. A return visit is definitely on the cards. Kitchen closes
at 22:00QB-2, Masarykova 11/1, tel. (+385-1) 889 74 44/
(+385-) 099 254 69 59, contactzagreb@nishtarestaurant.
com, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
Closed Mon. (49 - 69kn). P T J A 6 G W
ŠUMSKI KUHAR BISTRO
Slap bang in the middle of the bustling centre, this first floor
venue feels like it could be miles from any noise whatsoever.
All ingredients are sourced in Croatia where possible, and the
dessert menu would put many slastičarnice to shame.QC-2,
Tkalčićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 96 34, sumskikuharbistro@
gmail.com, www.sumskikuhar.com. Open 11:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. (15 - 55kn). P J A 6 G B W
ZRNO BIO BISTRO
100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can boast
such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional wines avail-
able. The interior is warm in appearance, with a narrow ter-
race outside if the weather allows. There's a bookstore in the
basement as well, for budding architects.QB-2, Medulićeva
20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, restoran@bio-zrno.hr, www.
zrnobiobistro.hr. Open 12:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. (45 -
59kn). P A 6 G B W
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
B Outside seating L Guarded parking
S Take away 6 Pet-friendly
W Wifi J Old town location
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Restaurants Restaurants
OUR BELOVED PIG
SLAUGHTER TRADITION
When the feverish debate arose of whether Croatia should
enter the European Union or not, Euro-sceptics offered two
very serious culinary threats to citizens. The first was that
Europe would not allow the old ladies (kumice) to work at
Croatian food markets and sell their devoured homemade
cheese and cream, a type of continental dessert Croatians
cannot live without. The second was even worse and it re-
ferred to the entire Croatian nation - the banning of our
traditional pig slaughter.
People were up in arms, outraged even as specifications
and bureaucracy outweighed the traditions of our ances-
tors. Who could take away this eternal practice that takes
place in the early days of an icy winter, most often round
early December? Whereby a pig is usually the source of a
handful of delicacies that would last the entire year with
bacon, pancetta, ham, prosciutto, kulen, kulenova seka,
and sausage such as black pudding, or dried ribs, pig’s trot-
ters, and more to be had…
All of this, the Euro-sceptics claimed would come into
question. Sounds ironic, it’s either the EU or pork stew. This
fear of the majority was voiced aloud in what may sound
kind of odd to an outsider. You see, pig slaughtering in
this region is in fact, and no matter whatever animal rights
activists say, more than just a way of saving whatever de-
lights for the winter and to survive the year more easily. Pig
slaughter, regardless of how it may sound wrong, were and
still are popular celebrations.
It all begins early in the morning; the entire family gathers
in the courtyard, the neighbours are probably there too, be-
fore the family that is, excitement all-round! It’s a big deal,
everyone has very precise tasks. Men, for example, slaugh-
ter and cut the pig, whilst women wash the pork lining in
preparation for delicious sausages; and the biggest master
is the one who knows how to make the perfect meat prod-
ucts, kulen, sausage, ham and prosciutto. As true as it is,
sometimes one has too many drinks and sings indeed a
tune or ten, jokes a little on his own or someone else’s ac-
count, but at the same time there is nothing better than the
‘first’ meat thrown on a fire, just like the sound of that pork
fat when turned into crackling.
When a pig’s life is taken it isn’t a beautiful sight, but many
say that it’s part of a natural chain; whilst one day ends, an-
other dawns. For anyone who has attended the tradition of
‘pig slaughter’ during their lifetime, even if not for the entire
ceremony not if every moment had been up to their liking,
today they will remember only the good and treasured de-
tails. For example, that fresh liver that was eaten for break-
fast will always be a dearer memory than the somewhat
weird parents’ need to force their children to hold a basin
under the neck of a pig with blood dripping.
This tradition meant so much to people that they would
take their annual vacation during the pig slaughter period,
unless of course a public holiday would fall around that
time, when it gets cold in November and December.
New times, however, have brought some new traditions.
People lead faster lives, there is not enough time anymore,
retail chains now offer all the wonders made of pork and
therefore make it all seem so much easier. So the most im-
portant element of the pig slaughter, which is the social-
ising and gathering of family and friends, has somehow
lightly been ignored. Even more depressing is that we have
ignored the truth, factory products and mass production
will never have the same quality as a domestic product. It
cannot be the same when the meat for sausages is mixed in
a machine, or when it is made with love by a grandfather or
father. A warm supermarket cannot compete with a child’s
pink cheeks from cold nipping, not even a CD with pop mu-
sic or announcements that entice you to purchase products
can compete with the chorus’ and verses which are uttered
by jolly folk followed by rakija (a drink to help keep warm in
the winter). Neither can the ‘joy’ of when one comes home
from shopping with a full trolley come even close to the joy
of when one comes home from the pig slaughter filled with
bags of the first pork rind/scratching (čvarci).
Unfortunately, it is true that the pig slaughteris no longer
what it used to be, but fortunately this nice tradition is still
being retained even if the wealth of a family is no longer
measured by the number of pigs ready for slaughter. It
should be said that the state has appointed more precise
rules and legal laws so that the animal suffers as least as
possible. The safety of meat goes under strict control; the
conditions in which the pig slaughter can be performed are
defined. Perhaps to some people this custom may seem
barbaric, just as they think it is barbaric to load lamb on
a spit, but all prejudices disappear if one attends the pig
slaughter at least once,and if you are not so unlucky to be
given a basin to capture swine blood.
In any case, it is the time of pig slaughter. Is it all worth the
effort? Try at least one pork rind that was hand-made, one
which costs almost one hundred kuna per kilogram, and
everything will be a lot clearer to you then!
HIT THE MARKET!
If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won't want
to miss the farmers' markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them;
most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit
and vegetables, while at the larger markets you'll also find
meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more.
The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide.
Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the
lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunt-
ing experience. You have to find a way to communicate with
the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships with
their favourite stallholders over years, you're here just for the
weekend. How can you be sure you're not short-changed or
given spoiled produce?
Don't be fooled into thinking that just because this is an open-
air market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If you look
carefully you can spot the importers - the fruit is a little too
regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it might be;
the produce on sale is out of season and its packaging belies
its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is buying veg
that was picked early this morning (or yesterday at the latest).
It's travelled into town in a big chequered bag with the lady
from the surrounding countryside - these ladies are known as
kumice and for their years spent supplying the city's markets
they've earned their own statue at the top of the steps on
Dolac market (C-2). Or it might be trucked in from the coast
where it's spent its life under the warm Dalmatian sun.
See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That's a good
sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn't raised
on artificial substrate so it's full of flavour. With a bit of luck it's
not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either. Look
out for people with a slightly motley selection of goods that
tell you they're smallholders, not large-scale traders. Seek out
imperfections in the produce - natural food is not all the same
size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud (but not too much
water, that's a trick to add weight on the scales).
The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of
Zagreb since 1930, and it's one of the liveliest spots in the city.
From 06:00 to around 14:00, it's full of banter, barter, chat-
ter, shouting and laughter. It's fringed by cafes and little food
outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sightseeing
schedule.
If you're a vegetarian, you'll want to avoid the meat section
where you'll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all over
the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it's a
far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the super-
market; there's no kidding you where that pork chop came
from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured
hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a
little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge
of children everywhere, offal.
Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at
Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma.
There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we
strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young
cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese
(dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with paprika, nettle, herbs or
made with goat's or sheep's milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look
out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from
Pag island.
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
Pig - Photo by Ivana Novak
Čvarci, Čvarak Fest Karanac Archives
Scones with Cracklings - Photo: Željka Klemenčić - Mrvica
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A trip to the fish section
(ribarnica) is part culi-
nary voyage, part natural
history adventure. The
creatures of the deep
whose gaze you'll meet
you've probably never
seen before. Along with
shimmering crates of
sardines are plump pink
scorpion fish, exquisite
yet ugly monkfish; jumbo
Adriatic squid, conger eel,
river trout and huge, fear-
somely-toothed, delicious
and hideously expensive
dentex. If you're not sure
how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usu-
ally gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for fish
with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes. There's fish to
suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just
20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all.
At the far end of the open-air part of Dolac market you'll find
herbal teas and tinctures and traditional craft items such as lace
tablecloths, embroidered slippers and wooden toys. Above is
a plateau named after Petrica Kerempuh, a literary character.
The Kerempuh restaurant is a great spot for a tasty lunch, and
the Potepuh café has been the meeting place of artists and
intellectuals for decades, including poet Tin Ujević and novelist
Miroslav Krleža. In summer, you can buy bedding plants, herbs
and other supplies for your garden or window box in this part
of the market. Go a little further along Opatovina (C-1) and
you'll find stalls selling cheap clothing.
Down the Dolac steps and towards the square are flower stalls,
a mirror held up to the changing seasons. Along with hothouse
staples there are always narcissi in the spring, chrysanthemums
in autumn, and lavender and sunflowers to help you pay hom-
age to the summer.
As you can see, your shopping spree on Dolac is hard work so
you deserve a break. A legendary place for a light lunch is Bistro
Amfora, strategically positioned under the arches by the fish
market. The place hasn't changed in the past 30 years; it's one
of the last reminders of Zagreb in years gone by and the locals
gather from dawn to chew over the day's gossip. The smell of
frying squid and sardines is irresistible. A main course (we sug-
gest crni rižot, squid ink risotto) and a glass of wine will set you
back just a few euro.
The other main Zagreb markets include Britanski trg (A-2)
(affectionately known as Britanac), which transforms into an an-
tiques market on Sundays; and Trešnjevački plac (H-3) and
Kvatrić (J-) (Kvaternikov trg) - also largeish markets with good
fish sections and much more.
So, pick up your basket and head for the market! Great food,
good cheer and some super photo opportunities await you.
IT’S TIME FOR SPARKLING
WINE!
A sommelier’s Jelena recommendations of which Cro-
atian sparkling wines to tickle your taste buds!
In Croatia, the production of sparkling wine has become
very popular over the last few years - particularly with the
classical champagne method of fermentation inside the
bottle of wine. Such wine that is produced using the classic
method must sit in the bottle for at least 15 months before
being put on the market. Hence, patience is a virtue and
it is through this process that the wine develops tertiary
aromas. Fragrances by which you can identify the spar-
kling wine are similar to the scent of freshly baked bread,
brioche, toast and yeast. Good sparkling wine should foam
when poured into a glass, the bubbles should be small, nu-
merous and long-lasting. It is also important to pay atten-
tion to the serving temperature, which must be between 4
to 6 ° C. In Croatia, not only has the production of sparkling
wine increased, but consumption has as well. You will of-
ten see a group of people in a restaurant ordering Croatian
sparkling wine and if it is made according to the traditional
classical method, the wine will have more complex aromas
in the glass and will be a very nice accompaniment with
lunch or dinner, and not just as an aperitif. Some of the
most important families who produce sparkling wines in
Croatia using the champagne method and that certainly
occupy the best positions are: Tomac, Peršurić, Šember,
Bibich, Cmrečnjak, Bolfan-Vinski vrh, Matošević, Puhelek-
Purek and many others that are no less significant. There is
hardly a corner in Croatia which does not produce sparkling
wine. From Plešivica, Zelina, Hrvatsko Zagorje, Međimurje
and Moslavina to Podunavlje, Istria, and the central part of
Dalmatia…
Peršurić Misal Millenium Brut
The Peršurić family comes from Istria and their wine pro-
duction dates from as far back as 1990. Their great sparkling
wine Misal Millenium Brut is a blend of Malvasia, Chardon-
nay and Pinot Noir. It is elegant, fresh, extremely complex
yet harmonious. Serve it at a temperature of 6 to 8° C and
serve it with seafood or a great aperitif.
Tomac Champagne Rose
The Tomac family is one of the most important families in
our area for the production of excellent sparkling wines.
Their Rose is made by using the traditional champagne
fermentation method in the bottle with the grape varieties
Chardonnay and Portugizac which are allowed to mature
for about two years. On the nose it is very fresh, charac-
terised by aromas of flowers and fruits, whilst giving the
palette a beautiful sense of freshness.
Šember Champagne Brut
The Šember family come from Plešivica and in the last few
years has been established as an excellent company that
keeps producing better and better sparkling wines. Their
brut sparkling wine is a blend of Chardonnay, Riesling and
Plavec Žuti. It beads very nicely and is very stable in the
glass. It has a very strong and complex bouquet, a good
body and a very long finish. Excellent with a light seafood
salad!
Meneghetti Classic 2010
The Meneghetti winery comes from Bale, Istria. Their Me-
neghetti Classic is a blend of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and
Pinot Noir. It maintains a golden yellow colour, a beauti-
ful bouquet, and is a very complex and pleasant sparkling
wine made according to the champagne method.
THE FOODIE’S GUIDE
11.02 THURSDAY - 14.02 SUNDAY
ZAGREB COFFEE & CHOCOFEST
Are you a chocolate and coffee addict? Then this de-
licious event is a must for you to attend! The festival
exhibits some of the finest coffee and chocolate by
Croatian and foreign manufacturers. It includes local
and international coffee producers, as well as appli-
ance and equipment manufacturers, displaying prod-
ucts alongside coffee shop owners selling an array of
chocolates and coffee mixtures.QC-2, Trg bana Jo-
sipa Jelačića, www.zagreb-cofee-chocofest.com.
04.03 FRIDAY - 13.03 SUNDAY
ZAGREB RESTAURANT WEEK
Mirroring in the footsteps of major cities across the
world, Zagreb’s finest restaurants will once again open
their doors to all visitors, offering their finest three-
course menus at discounted prices. Book your seats in
advance as last years was a succulent success.Qwww.
tjedanrestorana.com.
12.03 SATURDAY
PINK DAY ZAGREB – THE 4TH INTERNATION-
AL SPECIALISED FESTIVAL OF ROSÉ WINES
Winemakers, chefs, bakers, wine journalists, som-
meliers, bloggers and writers will be partaking in this
gastro bonanza. Foremost, this will be a celebration
of rosé and sparkling wines mixed with a jamboree of
culinary and artistic guests, wine workshops, lectures,
round table discussions, book presentations, and
more. By the way, the theme colour is pink so be sure
to pink’n up your attire!QB-3, The Mimara Museum,
Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, www.womenonwine.
com.hr.
THE LITTLE MARKET IN THE ATTIC
Here you can find all kinds of interesting delicacies
from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cos-
metics, eco-friendly cleaning products and a whole
lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you can
learn from others about growing and enjoying natural
healthy food. For locations and dates check their web-
site.Qwww.mali-plac.org.
WINE SCHOOL BY JELENA ŠIMIĆ VALENTIĆ
Love wine! Wanna learn more? Enroll into these work-
shops which provide for 15 to 20 people. They con-
sist of three 180 minute sessions per month with the
exact dates to be released two weeks prior to school
starting. Classes always begin at 18:30 and four inter-
national wines will always be tasted!Qtel. (+385-) 098
165 80 73, pupitres@pupitres.hr, www.pupitres.hr.
www.inyourpocket.com
The Little Market at the
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MEDVEDNICA AND
TRADITIONAL WINTER
DISHES
Medvednica mountain is famous for its warm and hearty
meals made especially during the cold winter months. One
of the most popular traditional dishes is sauerkraut, called
kiseli kupus, in Croatian. Back in the olden days, it was an
inexpensive meal and could be afforded by almost every-
one. As well, sauerkraut has a lot of nutrients and is an ex-
tremely healthy and nutritious food. A variety of dishes can
be made using sauerkraut. A favourite among locals being
sarma, which is minced meat wrapped in cabbage leaves.
Another delicious dish is sekili goulash, which is a combi-
nation of pork and chopped sauerkraut. As well, sauerkraut
can be served with grilled or blood sausages. Beans are
also a popular dish in this area and are known as a ‘winter
gem.' They can be served with sauerkraut in a stew or com-
bined with barley. Last but not least, turkey with dumplings
should not be forgotten as a tasty seasonal speciality.
Follow the well-known saying and when in Zagreb, do as
the Zagrepčani do, by trying some of their traditional win-
ter meals. These hotly prepared dishes are sure to warm you
up during the long winter nights. Enjoy the delicious taste
of sauerkraut, sausages, fresh cheese with sour cream, stru-
del and mulled wine. These ancestral dishes are timeless
and individuals of all ages will enjoy these meals.
A trip to Medvednica mountain is a must for fans of the
great outdoors. Located behind Zagreb, it consists of about
70 hiking trails of various lengths and degrees of difficulty.
Hikers usually hike to one of the numerous lodges for a
warm and tasty traditional local meal. Some popular res-
taurants and lodges to visit include:
Bistro Pilana Bliznec
This bistro offers a variety of delicious meals. Their most
well-known dishes are lungić u maramici and skewers.
As well as, fresh cheese and sour cream and ćevapčići. The
bistro can be reached by car or by hiking along the Blizenec
forest trail. The trail is 800 m long and along the way you
can learn more about the history of Medvednica and its
wildlife. After your meal, you can also visit the museum,
which was renewed in 1992.
Planinarski dom Runolist
To get to this lodge it takes 1 hour and 45 minutes from
the parking lot entrance of Bliznec, but it's well worth the
hike, since their outdoor terrace is praised for having the
best view overlooking Zagreb. The easiest way to the lodge
is with the ‘Bikčević’ path or it can be reached by car us-
ing the Sljeme road. During your visit, be sure to order the
delicious homemade bread, as well as their special Velebit
beer on tap.
Planinarski dom Ivan Pačkovski (Puntijarka)
This lodge is used primarily by the Mountaineering Society
Zagreb-Matica, but is a favorite among all mountaineers.
It's the newest mountain lodge on Medvednica and takes
about 90 minutes to get there by foot from Bliznec. In front
of the lodge they have a variety of tables and benches,
which can accommodate more than 300 visitors.
Planinarski dom Grofica
This mountain lodge offers delicious culinary dishes, such
as gulaš divljač and sljemenski lonac s vrganjima, in an
intimate and cozy atmosphere. On average it takes ap-
proximately 2.5 hours to get to the lodge. As well, there is a
bus line from Mihaljevac which stops in front of Tomislav's
Dom, which is a 10 minute walk to Grofica. It is well-known
among hikers as a place where you can eat well for 120kn.
Zlatni medvjed
Located at the foot of the Sljeme Tower, this lodge is fa-
mous among skiers during the winter. They also rent out
skies and other equipment. During the spring and summer,
they offer delicious barbecued meals, as well as tasty apple
strudel.
Vidikovac
Vidikovac is by far the most famous restaurant and cafe on
Sljeme. One side of the terrace offers a spectacular view
of Zagreb while the other side offers a unique view of the
Zagorje area. Webcams are placed here to broadcast live
images. All of the hiking trails lead to the Vidikovac and also
can be reached by bus from Mihaljevac.
Planinarski dom Grafičar
If you're up for a day long hike up Sljeme then Mountain
Lodge Grafičar is your ideal destination. Be warned that
it's a steep climb, but it's well worth the effort. At the top,
warm yourself up in front of the fireplace while listening to
some soothing music.
Bistro Kraljičin zdenac
This is one of the most popular Bistros among locals in
Zagreb, since its natural spring is rumoured to have the
cleanest water in the city. The well, which was named after
the legendary Black Queen, assumed to be Barbara of Celje,
second wife of King Sigismund of Luxembourg is only three
kilometers from the entrance. The path is easy enough for
even pushing baby carriages, however there are a few
steep stairs along the way, so it's not recommended.
Lugareva kuća
This lodge is described as ‘'mini Austria'' for its charming
appearance. It consists of a wooden bridge under which a
stream flows and has a picturesque garden decorated with
gnomes. It's the perfect spot for an afternoon picnic. Tast-
ing their homemade sausages is a must during your visit!
As well, a few other must visit spots on Medvednica include
the Veternica Cave, the Zrinski Mine, the Medvedgrad cas-
tle, Susedgrad and Zelingrad. “Horvat's 500 Steps” is anoth-
er popular place to check out. It's where Vladimir Horvat
(1891-1962), a journalist, publicist, photographer and na-
ture lover, who wished to make this part of the mountain
accessible for everyone to enjoy, carved out 500 steps. At
the bottom of the steps is a valley with a stream where the
spirited Mr. Horvat built benches and a shelter that you
can still use today. Also, don't forget to visit the Gorsko zr-
calo (“Mountain Mirror”) cliff, used as a climbing wall, and
Šumarske jaslice (“The Forest Nativity Scene”), where you
can see life-size figures of the Nativity scene carved out in
wood.
Visit www.medvednica.info for additional information.
You can also buy a map showing the hiking routes and
landmarks for 20 kn at the the Medvednica Nature Park
headquarters and on weekends at the Bliznec Info Point,
located 100 m before the headquarters.
Kraljičin Zdenac - Medvednica Nature Park Archives
Horvat’s Steps - Medvednica Nature Park Archives
Sarma à la Carte - Croatia à la Carte
Black Pudding and Cabbage - Polovanec
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Local Flavour Local Flavour
TASTY GETAWAYS
Interested in trying some delicious local specialties available
around the Zagreb area? You’re in luck because we’ve made
a list of some great places for you to try out during your visit.
Savour the taste of traditional local dishes made using only the
freshest seasonal ingredients at these mouth-watering restau-
rants, which can be enjoyed along with various homemade
wines produced in Central Croatia. Or, as an alternative, stop
by an organic farm to pick up some fresh produce and make
your own meal.
BERTIJA POD LIPOM
This is a 200 year old, originally decorated, cottage and a pro-
tected monument that continues to serve up classic dishes
from the hills of Zagorje. You can taste the homemade strudels,
sausages, cheese and sour cream on offer. The owner Božo is the
heart and soul of this place and makes sure that everything runs
smoothly.QZarebačka 8, Gornja Stubica, tel. (+385-49) 28 91
60, matija_gubec@net.hr. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Closed Mon.
BOLFAN VINSKI VRH
Enjoy homemade cuisines with in season produce purchased
from local families for the freshest ingredients at Bolfan Vinski
Vrh. These tasty meals can be enjoyed with a glass of ecologi-
cal Bolfan wine. If you’re looking for some much needed rest
and relaxation then this is the perfect place for you. There are
five rooms available for guests, a seminar room, hiking and
biking trails and a playground for kids. As well, for wine lovers,
wine tasting and a tour of the wine cellar are a must. There is
also a vineyard and pasture where red angus cattle are raised.
QGornjaki 56, Hraščina, tel. (+385-) 099 703 17 97, bolfan@
bolfanvinskivrh.hr, www.bolfanvinskivrh.hr. Open Wed -
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (90 - 200kn).
KARLO
This charming picturesque restaurant is located in the heart
of the Plešivička Wine Road, part of an area locally nicknamed,
“Little Tuscany.’’ They offer traditional dishes full of mouth-
watering flavour and seductive aromas using fresh seasonal
ingredients, such as homegrown rabbit prepared with a deli-
cious rose champagne or savoury chicken and vegetable skew-
ers. These tasty meals can be enjoyed with some homemade
wine while overlooking a beautiful view of the vineyards in this
gastronomic fairytale.QPleševica 40, tel. (+385-1) 629 30 91,
karlo.gastrovin@gmail.com. Open 12:00 – 22:00. Closed
Mon. (55 - 95kn).
MALA HIŽA
Dishes in a 125 years old restaurant - This majestic small
traditional wooden building was built in 1887, dismantled,
relocated, reassembled, refurbished and opened in 2001.
What a journey! And when going to such extremes, the food
just has to be good. There is a yearly all-round menu and an
additional seasonal menu that combines tradition with inno-
vation.QBalogovec 1, Mačkovec, Čakovec, tel. (+385-40)
34 11 01, malahiza@gmail.com, www.mala-hiza.hr. Open
10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (65 - 185kn).
OPG MARIO KROG
If you’re looking to buy fresh and organic products then a
visit to OPG Mario Krog farm is a must. Recently established in
2013, they aim to preserve the traditional breeding of domestic
ducks in Krapina, an area which the Pannonian Sea used to
cover. Currently, the farm always has between 100-200 ducks
which are slowly prepared for sale. The ducks are provided
with fresh drinking water and eat homemade pesticide-free
food mixed with grains, such as wheat, barley and oats. As
well, the ducks provide fresh eggs, which are twice as big as
a chicken’s eggs and with a yolk that is much more yellow.
The farm is open to visitors from 07:00 until 17:00 during the
winter, when the ducks go to sleep, and during the summer,
the farm is open until 20:00.QGornja Pačetina 27, Lepajci,
Krapina, tel. (+385-) 099 342 53 01, farma.patka@gmail.
com, www.domace-patke.com. Open 07:00 - 17:00. Price
of ducks 60kn/kg.
RUDARSKA GREBLICA
The town of Samobor and its small surrounding vil-
lages with their green meadows and hills truly are a
wonderful getaway from the craze the main city has to
offer. Such places still hold onto much tradition when it
comes to crafts, folk dance, costume and food. Speak-
ing of the latter, one classic food that has stood the test
of time even since the 20th century is the ‘Rudarska
greblica’. These are types of pastry snacks that miners
would take with them down mines knowing that they
would have to be there for many hours without pause.
These could last hours; they didn’t need to be kept in
a fridge and gave miners lots of energy for their hard
labour. Probably still a poor man’s meal, people had
little to choose from back then and all that villages
had to offer were more often than not flour, salt, eggs,
milk, cream and other dairy. Decades later, such pastry
snacks from the area thrive in cafes and restaurants and
are a true delicacy. Now you may be wondering where
you could buy such a traditional pastry snack. Low and
behold, the eatery and patisserie ‘Mak Na Konac’ in
the street Popa Dukljanina 1, has it on offer. Pastry
chef Petra Jelinić, who happens to be from the Samo-
bor area, works up some amazing greblice along with
cookies, cakes, macaroons, biscuits and other pastry
delights; so there’s a fine line for those who prefer the
sweeter to the saltier types of goodies. Petra is almost
an art chef with attention paid to detail. We do recom-
mend the čvarkuše also, a classic type of soft scon with
minced pork rind added to the dough leaving a blend
of soft salt on the palette. The interior is elegant with a
modern rustic feel, lots of wooden interior mixed with
green giving a natural feel. There is plenty to choose, so
you can’t lose!
WHAT’S EATEN DURING
CARNIVAL TIME...
After the Christmas and New Year’s holidays, sometime
after the Three Kings’ Day, begins the period of Carnival.
During this time, the aroma of popular krafne, as well as
other specialties will be spread from house to house. In
the Hrvatsko zagorje region people still eat prisiljeno zelje
(forced cabbage) , which is stirred with garlic and pasta
sheets. Also popular is dry pork neck, the so-calledlalovka.
As for cakes, the self-raising cakes are on the menu as well
as the obligatory, kraflini (doughnut). In Zagreb, cabbage
is also eaten, as well as polenta, beef, roast turkey or goose,
and for dessert donuts. In Samobor, the famous Samobor
kremšnite are served, not to mention garlic sausages with
mustard and sweet bermet as a beverage. Slavonians
enjoy meat leftovers in sausages, čvarci (dried pork fat)
and as for the sweet desserts - strudels, švargle, donuts,
masnica with walnuts or poppy seed and Greaves pie.
From the Kastav and Ćićarija area come the sweet spe-
cialty, presnac which is made of dough, old bread, milk,
eggs, raisins and cinnamon. The other popular dessert
are kroštule with almonds, fanjki, šurlice made of sweet
dough, fig-cake made with walnuts and a bit of rakija, and
presnac made of fresh sheep cheese and maroon cake. In
Gorski kotar, povatica is made from self-raising dough
with cheese, apple or walnut filling. Fritule and kroštule
are a popular dessert in Split. The obligatory crème-cara-
mel is home in Dubrovnik.
Fanjci - Sweets eaten during Carnival time - Photo by Višnja Arambašić
Rudarska greblica by Petra Jelinić - Photo by Damir Fabijanić
OPG Mario Krog Archives
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Local Flavour Local Flavour
AÏDA
A short review is not easy here. High ceilings, a sense of great
space, music and uniforms reminiscent of the 1960s, and a
bright and simultaneously relaxing pink décor. High quality
coffees and teas, and a menu which pairs cakes with wines,
something which will prove popular at any time of year. Aï-
da’s goal isn’t just to provide a place for a pit-stop, but to of-
fer you an overall experience. The Moroccan chocolate cake
is an absolute must!QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 7, tel.
(+385-) 098 884 84 94, info@aida.hr, www.aida.hr. Open
08:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. P T J G B X S 
DEŽMAN BAR
Dežmanova is surely Zagreb’s most hip street. Already home
to great fast food joints and cafes, it’s also where you’ll find
Dežman Bar with its cocktails, snacks and pastries. It’s gluten
free, if you’re concerned about allergens, and it stocks Croa-
tian beers. But don’t worry if you think it’s somehow a ‘hippy’
bar… they have a BBQ sandwich on the menu too!QB-2,
Dežmanova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 60, info@dezman.hr,
www.dezman.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sat 08:00 -
01:00. Closed Sun. P T J B X W
DIVAS
The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of its
previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first love
in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating areas
create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to drink se-
lections complimented by cakes and munchies. Tea, coffee
and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of classic and
unique selections listed at drinkably affordable rates in the
hand-sewn menu cards.QD-2, Martićeva 17, tel. (+385-1)
457 99 42, divasbar@mail.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat
08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. P N G B X W
EXPRESS BAR
It’s an unassuming looking place, but with friendly staff (but
oh so skilled), and a pretty decent selection of coffee and tea
blends. Plenty of seating both indoors and outside, natu-
rally, on the street. Coffee? Purely seasonal and is based on
fresh harvest and freshly roasted coffee. Express has ‘blends’,
a mixture of coffee most often from different countries, so
Costa Rica, Salvador and Brazil might be in blend this week,
whereas next weeks could be entirely different. They also
have single origin coffee! So, if you devour coffee, then you
need to put the time aside to try a few cups.QC-2, Petrin-
jska 4. Open 07:00 – 23:00, Sat 08:00 – 22:00, Sun 09:00
– 14:00.
LE KOLAČ
We recommend you make a trip for a pick ‘n’ mix box
of their tiny teacakes: they are ultra-fresh and truly deli-
cious.QE-2, Petretićev trg 3, tel. (+385-1) 466 21 76,
slatkeboje@gmail.com, www.lekolac.com. Open 08:00
- 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. P N G
B X W
MAK NA KONAC
The search for the best chocolate cake in all of Zagreb is, for
now, at an end. Mak na Konac, with almost two decades of
experience in the kitchen, provides some interesting twists
on what is the norm in local pastries, or pastries from any-
where for that matter. Bepsoke orders are possible, and
Mak na Konac can cater to all tastes, and needs: gluten free,
diabetic friendly, dairy free, etc.QE-2, Dukljaninova 1, tel.
(+385-1) 461 66 54, www.maknakonac.com. Open 09:00 -
21:00. Closed Sun. A
ORIJENT
There are people we know who practically orgasm when
they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is
home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other
places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and the
same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe.QJ-2,
Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23, orijent@ymail.
com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
P N G W
VELVET
This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more
stylish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall
in love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track
of your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make
their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor
seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way.
Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area.
QB-2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, info@velvet.
hr, www.velvet.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
P J A 6 G B W
POINTERS FOR PINTS
The subject of craft beers is, paradoxically, one of some
simplicity, and of such complexity so as to befuddle
many a lover of hops and barley. The idea of a craft beer
has evolved somewhat in recent times, and is likely set
to evolve even further over the coming years. Originally
a craft beer was made in small quantities, and without
the preservatives present in more commercial / mass
produced beers. Of course, it’s entirely possible to market
your craft beer; if it’s good enough, people will drink it,
and indeed seek it out with great fervour as they do with
Ridgeway Brewery’s (UK) Bad Elf line.
Craft beers, as any fan will tell you, are the sort you sip and
savour, perhaps reading a book in front of an open fire;
they are not the sort of beers which you drink quickly nor
excessively, for to do so would be unforgivably wasteful.
Generally speaking craft beers would be shunned by
mainstream outlets- why would some major retail chain
dedicate shelf space to such a limited product, knowing all
too well that it would be gone that same day, and no new
returning customers likely gained as a result? More accept-
able for the profit line to focus on your core beers – in Cro-
atia’s case these being those produced by Zagrebačka
pivovara and Karlovačka pivovara, which include, re-
spectively, Ožujsko, Tomislav, and Karlovačko.
Croatia has seen a craft beer boom within the past 2 years,
a boom that was clearly long overdue. The country already
had Velebitsko, both light and dark, coming out of Lika, and
truly wonderful beers at that. Vukovarsko, as you would
expect, coming from Vukovar, an unpasteurised beer, and
so requiring that it be drunk not long after bottling. Any
hostelry around the country, which stocks Vukovarsko,
knows that a quick phone call, or post on social media, will
ensure that it won’t spend too long in the fridge. And it’s
that sort of brand awareness, however ‘underground’ it is,
which tends to characterise craft beers.
And no article about Croatian beer is even possible with-
out mentioning the Medvedgrad pivovara family – sun-
dry beers, including the heady Grička vještica, and present
in several locations around the capital (Mali Medo on
Tkalčićeva, a place on Ilica, one way out towards Samobor,
and one on Savska), as well as (in recent months) in bottle
form in pubs, cafes, clubs, and even on the shelves of Kon-
zum (well, it is a Croatian mainstay after all).
The aforementioned boom has seen many actors involved
– Zmajska pivovara, Nova runda, both giving some ex-
cellent IPAs, both on tap and bottled. Bujska pivovara
is a tad more upmarket with its divine San Servolo, which
comes in 3 types – light, red, dark. But while you’re paying
a bit more for this than for other local beers, it’s no Grey
Poupon you’re buying; you’re getting a kick for your kuna
here. There are other small outfits, ABA 5th Element,
BaD Brewery, and by the time you read this there will be
another place, Punkt, which will have opened in Zabok,
maybe an hour from Zagreb, and they’ll be brewing their
own beers for their own customers at their attached res-
taurant.
Within the city centre, without even having space or time
to look at the suburbs, you have several great spots to try all
of these beers and more – Tolkien’s (C-1) up on Opatovina
is probably the first place you should visit, being Zagreb’s
#1 beer-lover hang-out. Tituš (B-1), at the top of freshly
renovated Mesnička has craft beers available, as well as a
sort of bluesy-jazzy chic. Beertija (D-3), part of the Tvor-
nica Kulture group, was opened specifically to cater to the
ever-growing beer culture. You have Caffe Bar A’e (I-5),
opposite the Velesajam Pavilions, Sheridan’s Irish Pub (I-
3) which stocks imported Irish and European beers as well
as the local stuff, and Zagreb’s newest craft beer pub, the
Craft Room (C-1), which has opened in the premises of the
former Kulinarijat. And what’s on offer in terms of imports is
set to increase that much more – keen readers will have al-
ready noted that the two main breweries listed above have
changed hands in recent years, with Karlovačko recently
rebranding as Heineken Croatia, and Zagrebačka being
purchased by Molson Coors…this latter deal is important
here, because Molson Coors have been buying up craft beer
ABA 5th Element - Photo by PHOTON Studio
Mojo Bar, Wine Rakija & Co. Archives
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Nightlife Coffee & Cakes
breweries around the world, and have now introduced their
new products to the Croatian market (try Cork’s own Rebel
Red, and trust us when we say that the bottled beer tastes just
as if it were a freshly poured pint).
And it doesn’t end there, either! At least one company has
made its plans known to set up a craft brewery to rival any-
thing else present in the country right now… Exciting times!
ALTERNATIVE
AKC MEDIKA
Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the
Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists' squat that was
granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker
up to Zagreb's alternative community. A regular menu of punk,
ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract
a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so
you don't need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in.
Check out their website to see what's going on.QA-3, Pierot-
tijeva 11, tel. (+385-1) 619 72 23, medikainfo@gmail.com,
www.attack.hr. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00 and on request.
J 6 N B X W
MOČVARA
This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of
Zagreb's premier gig and clubbing venues but also something
of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most
nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary
events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer's
woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is reason enough to
call in. As a reminder, the club opens only for organized con-
certs or special events, so it's best to keep track via the web.
QI-3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, mochvara@
urk.hr, www.mochvara.hr. Open for organized concerts
and special events, so it's best to keep track via the web
or Facebook page. P T 6 U L E N G B X W
SPUNK
Great tunes spin about the fifties funk fusion atmosphere
of this starry-skied club café. The indie-chill and alternative
laden line up offers an inviting feast of aural delights. With a
performance selection in constant evolution, music fans of all
inclinations are invited to discover each evening what “The
Space” will become.QI-3, Hrvatske bratske zajednice 4, tel.
(+385-1) 615 15 28, spunk.zagreb@gmail.com. Open 07:00
- 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.
P T J 6 E N B X W
BARS
BACCHUS JAZZ BAR
Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto,
but the music is still audible if you're seated out in the court-
yard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a
fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves
under the bar.QC-3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098
32 28 04, ejudnamo@yahoo.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun. T J 6 N B X W
BOOZE&BLUES
A very welcome addition to an already busy area, Booze &
Blues is a part of New Orleans right here in Zagreb. Every spirit
you'd likely see on Bourbon Street, open late, and live music
Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays. There's a Heineken tap made
from a functional saxophone which is worth a visit alone.
QC-1, Tkalčićeva 84, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 65, info@booze-
and-blues.com, www.booze-and-blues.com. Open 09:00
- 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. P T J A 6 E B
X W
CORNER BAR
Situated in the Ban Centar, urban meets Zen in this tranquil
yet modern atmosphere. An outdoor garden terrace creates
an extremely peaceful and relaxing setting amongst the con-
temporary and chic decor, a top escape from the hustle and
bustle of the city. Not just a great spot to sip your morning
coffee in peace, but also for a fun night out on the town with
friends. They offer a large selection of wines, champagne by
the glass, cognac, coffee and tea, along with sandwiches, cakes,
cocktails, smoothies, natural juices, cigars and whiskey. There's
something to suit everyone's taste! Breakfast is served from
08:00 - 12:00 where one can enjoy 100% Arabica Lavazza Kafa
Forest Coffee selected from natural plantations in Ethiopia. In
addition, they host various musical evenings with multimedia
equipment and projectors available for presentations.QC-2,
Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (Next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića),
tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93, b.luksa@corner-bar.hr. Open 07:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 11:00. P T J
A 6 U E G B X W
MELIN
Tucked away just off of one of Zagreb's most famous streets,
Tkalčićeva, Melin functions as a café by day and club by night
offering live jazz performances on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Decorated in a retro-chic style with old fashioned TV sets used as
makeshift tables, the cozy outdoor patio is surrounded by trees
and greenery and adorned with old-time radios. Take a seat at
one of the mismatched, but stylish colourful chairs and tables
and enjoy a drink in this artsy atmosphere.QC-1, Kožarska 19,
tel. (+385-1) 488 02 98, melin.bar@gmail.com, www.melin.
hr. Open 10:00 - 02:00. T J A 6 E B X W
MOJO BAR, WINE RAKIJA & CO.
Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, overlooking the
fountain, on Trg Hrvatskih Velikana, or enter the underground
bar and move into a smoky urban style ambiance. Brick walls,
adorned with black-and-white pictures, create a mellow and
calming atmosphere. A very large selection of wines andraki-
jas are offered, which can be enjoyed at the live music nights,
featuring klapas on Mondays, rock cover bands on Tuesdays,
jazz bands on Wednesdays and DJs on the weekends.QD-2,
Martićeva ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 526 67 33, marin.levaj@
gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00
- 24:00. P T A 6 E B X W
SAVSKA 14 (EX KRIVI PUT)
This no-nonesense garden of beer-drinking delights offers
grungy good outdoor seating gallour for libations of all kinds at
college-kid prices. Curious about the latest goings-on? Hoping
to catch a live jazz-blues night? Drop-in to find-out as the lack
of digital promotions is part of the appeal to this local favorite.
Afterall, what's there not to like about a place that doesn't bother
with a name more than making sure you know where to find
them?QA-4, Savska 14. Open 09:00 - 02:00. B
TABAN BAR
Leave your footprint at this American downtown-like bar which
is located on one of Zagreb's most popular walking streets.
The outdoor patio is the perfect location to sit back with some
friends and people watch. Inside, the brick walls, graffiti style
writing on a chalkboard and comfy couches create an urban
feel. Usually featuring rock music on Friday nights and DJs on
Saturdays, make sure to check online for weekly event details.
QC-1, Tkalčićeva 82, tel. (+385-1) 553 35 27, reception@
tabanzagreb.com, www.tabanzagreb.com. Open 08:00 -
02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. T J 6
E N B X W
Mojo Bar, Wine Rakija & Co. Archives
Green Gold Club Archives
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Nightlife Nightlife
TESLA POWER HOUSE
Decked in modernity (at first glance), this central location
features a set of open decks for regular DJ sets as well as
copious Tesla related decorations. Live music, funk rock…
Everything goes at this Zagreb dive bar. Ideally located for
those waiting for events in nearby Kino Europa or on Trg.
QB-2, Varšavska 4, tel. (+385-) 091 330 49 88, medo@
tesla.bar. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.
P T J 6 E B X W
VINTAGE INDUSTRIAL BAR
This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than
just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some
friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance
performances, theater acts, film screenings or even liter-
ary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with
graffiti and black and white photography, create the
perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you
don't need to worry about parking because the front en-
trance is a spacious parking lot.QI-4, Savska cesta 160,
tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15, info@vintageindustrial-bar.com,
www.vintageindustrial-bar.com. Open 10:00 - 02:00,
Fri 10:00 -05:00, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
Closed Mon. P T 6 E B X W
CLUBS
KLUB.
Created as part of the Subcultural Center in Zagreb, Klub.
is a small and simple arched brick-walled space located
underground. It is accessible through the Joe Strummer
Square located in the courtyard of the complex shared by
the Beertija Club. Come check out a wide variety of bands
to suit any musical taste, from rock ‘n' roll and indie to elec-
tronic and punk.QD-3, Pavla Hatza 14-16, zvone.pusic@
gmail.com, www.subkulturnicentar.com.hr. Open Thu,
Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. N X W
PEPERMINT
What do you get when you give a clubhouse-style space
to a group of experienced DJs, innovative party planners
and music fanatics? A fresh cafe-by-day, club-by-night
whose groovy decor spans two-storeys of dance floors
and lava lounges that will whet your party appetite.
QB-2, Ilica 24, pepermint@pepermint-zagreb.com, www.
pepermint-zagreb.com. Open Tue - Sat 22:00 - 05:00.
P J A G X W
SAX!
This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays
here every night and is an especially delicious and wide
array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all
featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for
their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies
depending on the show - this place is a can't miss.QD-3,
Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, klub@sax-zg.
hr, www.sax-zg.hr. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun.
N G W
SHOCK SHOW INDUSTRY - D KATRAN - TRIM
KABINET 5REKOVIĆ
Located in an alleyway in Zagreb's business district, this
grungy bar offers a variety of special events, including
live concerts, film and dance nights. Shock Show Indus-
try, formerly Tvornica Katran, is still nicknamed, ‘Katran,' by
locals. It's not just a regular club, but part of a cultural as-
sociation from Bjelovar, which was founded in 1972, with a
branch located in Zagreb. To attend an event, don't forget
to make a reservation ahead of time.QJ-3, Radnička cesta
27 (door No 17, 2nd foor left), tel. (+385-) 095 418 83 85,
industry1972@gmail.com, www.ssi.com.hr. Open Fri,
Sat 23:00 - 06:00. J 6 E N X W
SIRUP
Sirup moved to a new location, the Zagrebački Paromlin,
a historic industrial building from the beginning of the
20th century, and is now situated behind the main train
station. At night, the building gives off an abandoned and
eerie feel and is perfect for thrill seekers and fans of a Jack
the Ripper 19th century London atmosphere. The music
is so intense that you'll feel the notes vibrating through
your chest. Open only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday
nights!QJ-3, Koturaška cesta 1, sirupfun@gmail.com,
www.sirupclub.com. Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
23:00 - 06:00.
PUBS
BIKERS BEER FACTORY
Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Can-
tina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big
motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior
is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bik-
ers' world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good
choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip!QI-4,
Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, bikers.beer.
factory@gmail.com, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open
08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
P T 6 E N B X W
SHERIDAN'S PUB
Croatia doesn't really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound,
but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald
Isle for yourself. This is Croatia's only true Irish pub, run as it
is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something
to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish
music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub
quiz and open mic sessions. They're also the only licenced
premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you're
fond of your pint of plain then that's a good thing.QSavs-
ka 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53, adriansheridan@
gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun
17:00 - 24:00. P T 6 N B X W
ESSENTIAL ZAGREB
BAN JOSIP JELAČIĆ SQUARE (TRG BANA JOSIPA
JELAČIĆA)
This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of
the city. There's a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping,
feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named
after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of
Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy
and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count's im-
age has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947
it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere
because leaders found it overly representative of national-
ism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its
current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly na-
tionalistic.QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.
MAKSIMIR PARK & THE CITY ZOO (MAKSIMIR-
SKI PARK I ZOOLOŠKI VRT)
A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four-
legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes,
grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as
clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car en-
gines have been removed from this place and as such it's a
great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest
was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its
kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo
is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana
Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The
entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.
QK-1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.zgzoo.com. Zoo
is open 09:00 - 16:00 (December, January), 09:00 - 17:00
(February), 09:00 - 18:00 (March), ticket ofce 09:00 -
15:00 (December, January), 09:00 - 16:00 (February),
09:00 - 17:00 (March). Admission 15 - 20kn.
MIROGOJ CEMETERY
Croats in the capital city don't mess around with the hom-
age they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Za-
greb's main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated
on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the
most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas
top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is
not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open
art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period
between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house
of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the mu-
nicipality bought the complete estate and constructed
the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known ar-
chitect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery,
applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions
and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and add-
ing a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting
There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes
15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from
the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out
at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ-1, Mirogoj bb.
ST MARK'S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. MARKA)
The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully
depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-
arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for
quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters
it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole
lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside,
highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s
most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.
QC-1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.
STONE GATE (KAMENITA VRATA)
This archway was one of the four original entries into the
walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible
fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a
vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash
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Sightseeing Sightseeing Nightlife
that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760
and hasn't been touched since. Today you'll find ladies
praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and can-
dles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.
QC-1, Kamenita bb.
THE CATHEDRAL OF ASSUMPTION OF THE
BLESSED VIRGIN MARY (KATEDRALA MARIJINA
UZNESENJA)
A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp
looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in
the entire city. Though it's in an evidently permanent state
of reconstruction, it's undeniably overwhelming and will
push you to ponder those larger things we can see you've
been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don't for-
get to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded;
1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In
the next 21 years it's heavily damaged in various sieges
by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically
destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where
the last left off. It's reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious
damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes
place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised
skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to bat-
tle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00,
18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.QC-1,
Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 -17:00,
Sun 13:00 - 17:00.
MUSEUMS
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM IN ZAGREB
(ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ U ZAGREBU)
Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly
enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical
musings often accompany explanations of the materials,
moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this
earth.QC-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1)
487 30 00, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 -
18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10 - 20kn.
ARTS AND CRAFTS MUSEUM (MUZEJ ZA UM-
JETNOST I OBRT)
This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered
aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amaz-
ing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very
ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages
are available. People with special needs also have guides.
These services do not cost extra.QB-3, Trg maršala Tita
10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr.
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Ad-
mission 20 - 30kn. U
CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM (MUZEJ SU-
VREMENE UMJETNOSTI)
Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impres-
sive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection
here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an
excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and pho-
tography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as
well as free Wi-Fi connection.QJ-4, Avenija Dubrovnik
17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr.
Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tick-
ets 15 - 30kn. U
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (ETNOGRAFSKI
MUZEJ)
High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a
unique look at the people of this country through the ages.
Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who
pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups
in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB-3, Trg Mažuranića
14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10 - 15kn. U
MEŠTROVIĆ ATELIER - IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ MU-
SEUMS (ATELIJER MEŠTROVIĆ - MUZEJI IVAN
MEŠTROVIĆ)
Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and
artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this
house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And
it is here where he complited many of his art works and
monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chi-
cago.QB-1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@
mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.
MODERN GALLERY (MODERNA GALERIJA)
The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all of
Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of Zagreb,
in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it hosts per-
manent exhibits featuring more than 750 works of modern and
ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors, as well others who
work in new media. From the staircase and grand lobby, to the
halls on the first and second floors, visitors are presented with
a harmonious image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday
and today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern
art await.QC-3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10
40/(+385-1) 604 10 55, info@moderna-galerija.hr, www.
moderna-galerija.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -
14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 40kn. U
MUSEUM OF BROKEN RELATIONSHIPS (MUZEJ
PREKINUTIH VEZA)
Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way
or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and
has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of
items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny
yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the
most innovative European Museum.QC-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda
2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, info@brokenships.com, www.
brokenships.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 25kn.
MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS
Test your perception at this amazingly new and unique Mu-
seum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as
they should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure
of visual and sensual stimuli is broken into two floors; hologram
pictures dominate the first floor and hands on displays are on
the second floor. It’s open for all ages and in both Croatian/Eng-
lish. Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QB-2, Ilica 72, tel.
(+385-1) 799 96 09, info@muzejiluzija.hr, www.muzejiluzija.
com. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn. Family ticket
100kn (includes two adults plus small children).
TECHNICAL MUSEUM NIKOLA TESLA
(TEHNIČKI MUZEJ NIKOLA TESLA)
All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor-powered
snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and
a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky.
Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.
QA-4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-
muzej@tehnicki-muzej.hr, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. Open
09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission
15kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.
THE CROATIAN MUSEUM OF NAIVE ART (HRVATS-
KI MUZEJ NAIVNE UMJETNOSTI)
Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art
is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This
museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is
undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language
guide can be organized at a charge of 200 - 300kn for every
30 minutes.QC-1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19
11, info@hmnu.org, www.hmnu.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.
TOP 5 SECRET THINGS TO
SEE IN ZAGREB
A PORTRAIT OF THE DAUGHTER OF SAMUEL
BERGER
Located at the Modern Gallery, this painting was cre-
ated by Vlaho Bukovac, one of the most renowned
Croatian painters.
GIRL WITH A BIRD
Located at the Zagreb City Museum, this gouache
painting was created by Marc Chagall, one of the most
successful artists of the 20th century, who used a com-
bination of art forms, such as cubism, symbolism, and
fauvism when painting his portraits.
LIBER LINTEUS ZAGREBIENSIS
A linen cloth wrapped around a mummy, purchased
by Mihajlo Barić, in 1848, was found to contain a
manuscript written, within the fabric, in Etruscan text.
Located at the Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, this
is the only preserved copy of such a manuscript.
STJEPAN ERDÖDY JUMP
Located at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, this pho-
tograph, taken in 1895 by Karlo Drašković, represents
one of the first photographs taken in Croatia.
THE HOLY TRINITY
This is the most valuable painting at Strossmayer Gal-
lery. It was created by an anonymous Dutch painter,
who is known as the master of paintings, Virgo inter
Virgines.
Alojzije Stepinac’s misnica - The Museumof the Blessed
Alojzije Stepinac Archives
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Sightseeing Sightseeing
THE MIMARA MUSEUM (MUZEJ MIMARA)
The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load
of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all
times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much
more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it
Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people
minimum, then a guide is available in English.QB-3, Trg
Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, mimara@
mimara.hr, www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission
30 - 40kn. U
ZAGREB CITY MUSEUM (MUZEJ GRADA ZA-
GREBA)
With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum
will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps eluci-
date the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an
independent country in the 20th century especially. Much
of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an
educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille
guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome
place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in
addition to special guides for the blind.QC-1, Opatička 20,
tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, mgz@mgz.hr, www.mgz.hr. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U
GALLERIES
ART PAVILION (UMJETNIČKI PAVILJON)
A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on
Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you'll find a superb home for all
kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries
of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top.
Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be orga-
nized, these service does not cost extra.QC-3, Trg kralja
Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, info@umjetnicki-
paviljon.hr, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Open 11:00 -
19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.
LAUBA – THE HOUSE FOR PEOPLE AND ART
(KUĆA ZA LJUDE I UMJETNOST LAUBA)
Known as the house for people and art, it has a collection
of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes
some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhi-
bitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and
interaction!QH-3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1)
630 21 15, info@lauba.hr, www.lauba.hr. Open 14:00
- 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 -
25kn. U
LANDMARKS
THE CROATIAN STATE ARCHIVES (DRŽAVNI
ARHIV)
On Marulić Square - part of the splendid, architecturally
planned Green Horseshoe - stands a grand Art Nouveau
building - one of the finest piece of architecture in Zagreb.
This building now houses the Croatian State Archive, the
home of documentation of state importance. The Reading
Room, which has undergone a full restoration completed
at the end of 2004, is particularly fine. Guided tours are
available in English, German or Croatian at 10:00, 13:00 and
14:00. 20kn per person.QB-4, Marulićev trg 21, tel. (+385-
1) 480 19 99/(+385-1) 482 92 44, 480 19 21, hda@arhiv.hr,
www.arhiv.hr. Open 08:15 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
THE LOTRŠČAK TOWER AND GRIČ CANNON
(KULA LOTRŠČAK I GRIČKI TOP)
If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it
simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an
elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one leg-
end, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over the
river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on a
platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha for his
lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city of fear-
some sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion. Since this
ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been fired at that
time from the same tower ever since. Sited in the Upper
Town, the tower originally was part of the city’s defences,
and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses a gallery
and an art shop, and the view from the top is well worth the
climb.QB/C-2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9. Open 11:00 -
19:00. Closed Mon.
TOMISLAV GOTOVAC FOOTPRINTS
Ever wanted to walk in the footsteps of someone famous?
Well, with Tomislav Gotovac, Croatian actor, director, and
performance artist, you can. On Zagreb’s main street, not
a few minutes walk from the main square, you will come
across imprints of his feet, placed there in celebration of
his piece, “Zagreb, I Love You”, when in 1981 he ran naked
down Ilica, kissing the road as he went. It’s unlikely that
the locals would look too favourably on a repeat of this
famed event by a tourist, but you’ll never know unless you
try!QC-2, Ilica 8.
ZAGREB WELCOMES YOU - MODEL CITY
Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, “Zagreb
Welcomes You” is a scale model of much of the Croatian
capital, and is situated on Bakačeva which is the street
leading from the main square, up to Kaptol. The entire
piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct
structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and
west facing sides of the model feature short texts refer-
encing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English,
and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb
and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see
a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croa-
tia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor
Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg
ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the
locals.QC-2, Ulica Tome Bakača.
CURIOSITIES
FUNICULAR
Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any
tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off
Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the
Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji grad,
that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30
seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the
tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB-2, Tomićeva
bb, javnost@zet.hr, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30 - 22:00.
THE GREEN HORSESHOE (ZELENA POTKOVA)
A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci
came along at the end of 19th Century and was instru-
mental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or
Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of
Kerubin Gallery at Upper Town, see more page 52 and 59.
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2015/2016 49 zagreb.inyourpocket.com 48 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Sightseeing Sightseeing
the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green
U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the
green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west
leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg maršala Tita
with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian
National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with
beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives.
The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the
wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to
nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous
park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The
east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja
Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with
the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious
Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of
squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of
all types.QB/C-3/4.
ZAGREB MUMMY
Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the
Archaeological Museum. The mummified body from
Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-
49, which you may think seems perfectly reasonable,
yet the mummy is Etruscan and had no business being
across the Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large
parts of west Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from
around 8 to 5 B.C. and only basics of their language,
which is pre-indo-European, are understood. The Zagreb
Mummy, like many celebrities, is actually more famous
for her clothes than her personal talents. After her owner
died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy
was wrapped in are strips of a book made of linen. This
book is the longest preserved text in the Etruscan lan-
guage and appears to be something similar to a liturgi-
cal calendar. The mummy is on permanent display but
her bonds are locked away and only revealed to experts.
QC-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19.
ZAGREB’S SOLAR SYSTEM
The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right
here in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great
big metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of
course, the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in
1971. In 2004 Davor Preis created a scale model of the
solar system around this mighty Sun, including planets
at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3,
Venus - Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars
- Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1,
Uranus - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne
(underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the
planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until
the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way
to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to
discover random corners of the city.
instagram.com/
croatiainyourpocket
ZAGREB HEROINES
We present to you the names of Zagreb’s most illustrious
dames, ladies who truly left their mark on the city’s fortunes,
and who were featured in an exhibition celebrating wom-
en’s role in society a couple of years back.
We’re focused on the past here, so if you feel your name,
gentle damsel, has been missed off the list, it just means
you haven’t yet passed the test of time. And who wants
to rush things? Here are the maids of honour… Ivana
Hirschmann - Zagreb’s first female physical education
teacher was famous for her short haircut, extrovert dress
sense and penchant for smoking cigarettes! Ms Hirschmann
did much to make sport acceptable for women at the be-
ginning of the 20th century. Tragically, she ended her life in
Auschwitz - she was a member of Zagreb’s Jewish commu-
nity. Marija Jambrišak - This brave lady stood up in 1871
and demanded equal pay for woman teachers, and was
also a tireless campaigner for the rights of Croatian people.
Thanks to her efforts, the first state school for women in the
Austro-Hungarian Empire opened in Opatička ulica, and still
bears her name today. Marija Jurić Zagorka - One of the
best loved Croatian novelists ever, Zagorka was also the first
woman journalist in the country. She was interested in witch
hunts, which took place in Zagreb in the 17th and 18th cen-
turies, and based one of her most famous tales, “The Witch
from Grič”on the true story of an attractive and prosperous
widow who was burned at the stake by an envious society.
She fought against discrimination in all its forms. Barbara
Kovačić - Worked in the corn mills which were essential to
the survival of 15,000 inhabitants of Zagreb. PaulaLandsky
- Today, you’re quite likely to spot that your tram driver sports
a slick of make-up and a good manicure (men’s grooming
has come on in leaps and bounds these days). But when
Paula Landsky first started work as a conductor selling
tickets on Zagreb trams this wasn’t such a common sight.
Resplendent in an imposing uniform and with a carriage
befitting her pride in her work, Landsky was a legendary
sight on Zagreb’s tram network for decades, and lived to see
her 101st birthday. Vjera Marjanović-Krajovan - the first
woman to gain a doctorate in science and technology from
the University of Zagreb (1928). Katarina Matanović - The
first Croatian woman to gain a pilot’s licence (1935), and the
first woman in Eastern Europe to take a parachute jump
(1938), later flew military aircraft as an officer in the air force
during World War II. ŠteficaVidačić - Although beauty con-
tests today still attract their share of media attention, noth-
ing can compare to the hysteria that surrounded the 1927
Miss Zagreb contests in the Hotel Esplanade. Later that year,
the winner, Štefica Vidačić, came home to a crowd of thou-
sands after winning the title Miss Europe in Berlin - making
her the most successful Croatian beauty to this day. Uršula
Volf - A chimneysweep is quite a common sight in Zagreb
still today, but a female one is one we’ll bet you haven’t seen
anywhere. But in 19th century Zagreb, one Uršula Volf not
only swapped her delicate gowns for a set of overalls, but
also came to be head of the Guild of Chimneysweeps.
Štefica Vidačić - Miss Zagreb & Miss Europe
Marija Jurić Zagorka - One of the best Croatian novelists ever and the
first woman journalist in the country
Marija Jambrišak - Demanded equal pay for women teachers and a
tireless campaigner for the rights of Croatian people
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2015/2016 51 zagreb.inyourpocket.com 50 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Sightseeing Sightseeing Sightseeing
SHOPPING MALLS
A woman’s fetish isn’t far away as the heart of Zagreb and
its outskirts is full of shopping centres. Each centre can be
reached by tram or bus with the Kaptol Centre and Centar
Cvjetni walking distance from the main square. The bigger
centres require public transport and include Avenue Mall in
Novi Zagreb, Arena Centre in Lanište, City Centre One West in
Jankomir, Point Shopping Centre in Vrbani, City Centre One
East in Žitnjak, and Garden Mall in Dubrava. What else can
we say but, ‘shop till you drop’!
ANTIQUES
APARTMAN
Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique
stuff.QA-2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Open 09:00 -
20:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
A
GALERIJA KERUBIN
Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds
of other stuff.QC-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98,
galerija-kerubin@net.amis.hr,www.galerijakerubin.com.
hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
A GOOD OLD VINYL
DANCING BEAR
CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream.QB-2,
Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja.
zagreb@dancingbear.hr, www.dancingbear.hr. Open09:00
- 20:00, Sat 09:00- 19:00. ClosedSun. A
DIRTY OLD SHOP
The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, t-shirts
with cool prints, posters, original figures of characters from
favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to cool!QI-3,
Tratinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, info@dirtyoldempire.
com, www.dirtyoldempire.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
CROATIAN DESIGN
CROATIAN DESIGN SUPERSTORE
Totally new concept store bringing the finest in Croatian
design to the forefront! This pop-up shop includes fash-
ion, gastronomy, kitchen & tableware, decor, jewellery,
lighting and furniture. It's a fab place to find unique gifts
and original souvenirs that are designed and produced
in Croatia. Also, the cafe, which is located within the
store, offers great cups of coffee and refreshing smooth-
ies, cocktails, craft beers and wines, plus loads of home-
made snacks on a daily basis from 09:00 till 21:00.QD-2,
Martićeva 4, croatiandesignsuperstore@gmail.com, www.
croatiandesignsuperstore.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed
Sun.
LOVE_ANA
A recently established fixture in the field of interior de-
sign, this is certainly worth a curious visit for the casual
passer-by, and a must-visit by anyone considering open-
ing some avante garde gallery or restaurant. In addition to
Ana's own expertise, the shop stocks and hosts sculptures
and artisanal jewellery.QB-2, Dežmanova 4, tel. (+385-1)
580 16 76, www.anatevsic.com. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat
12:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
TAKE ME HOME - CROATIAN DESIGN SHOP
The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian souve-
nirs and gifts created by over 60 designers. Tote bags and
purses with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern
designs, unique jewellery, trendy daily planners and note-
books, plus all sorts of other creative knick-knacks and
handmade mementos are all offered to remember your
trip by.QB-2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@
takemehome.hr, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 -
20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
5 MUSEUM SHOP FINDS
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM SHOP
Take home a piece of history with you today from the mu-
seum souvenir shop. Items include: ushepti figurines, tri-
partite jugs, the head of a Pharaoh and many, many more.
QC-2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487
31 01, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A
ART SHOP KLOVIĆEVI DVORI
Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an
artist.QC-1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Open
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A
HNK ART SHOP
Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts
with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace
postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy
items with motifs from different theatre shows.QB-3, Trg
maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@
hnk.hr, www.hnk.hr. Usually operates from 10:00 -
13:00 and every evening when there are shows on.
A
MSU SHOP
A great choice of books and works by Croatian and in-
ternational designers.QJ-5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel.
(+385-1) 605 27 58, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. Open
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
MUO SHOP
Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of
Arts and Crafts.QB-3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-
1) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A
zagreb.inyourpocket.com 52 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Shopping
CLOTHES
BOUDOIR
A famous duo of twins whose creations are nostalgic,
womanly and full of romance. Read the whole interview
with Martina and Morana, page 25.QC-1, Radićeva 22, tel.
(+385-) 091 481 34 64, www.boudoir.hr. Open 11:00 -
19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
FASHION BOUTIQUE DORA
Just for the ladies, boutique Dora is a traditional fam-
ily business that has been designing and manufactur-
ing beautiful women’s clothing for over 30 years. Dora is
known for their quality production and feminine designs.
Every pattern is made either bespoke or in a small series,
and always of the finest natural fabrics. Authentic and tai-
lor made for you!QC-1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 17
63, modnisalonDORA@gmail.com, www.dora-rubic.
com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
AJ
JEWELRY
JOZEF GJONI
They opened in 1971, and since then have been producing
unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery. With a large
collection of handmade gold and silver antique pieces, as
well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned with pre-
cious and semi precious gemstones, they offer something
for everyone.QC-2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića 10, tel. (+385-1)
481 09 02, www.zlatarna-jozef-gjoni.hr. Open 08:00 -
20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J A
LAPIDARIUM - ZLATARNA MARIO
At Lapidarium, you can find a galore of engagement and
wedding rings, earrings, bracelets, as well as necklaces
that are described as 'a new dimension' of jewelry. Create
your own signature piece, with never before seen styles,
that will have you setting fashion trends.QC-1, Radićeva
10, lapidarium@net.hr, www.zlatarna-mario.hr. Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J A
MEDAKOVIĆ
Specializing in handmade modern jewelry, since 1938,
these contemporary and unique pieces were created by
goldsmith, Renato Medaković.QC-2, Frane Petrića 2, tel.
(+385-1) 481 27 49/(+385-) 098 182 64 70, rmedakovic@
gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. N
SHOES & ACCESORIES
A SHOO
A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one.
Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps to
wrap around your feet. Anita's shoes are walking sex.QD-2,
Martićeva 19, ashoo@ashoo.net, www.ashoo.net. Open
12:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N
CEROVEČKI
Handmade umbrellas.QB-2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74
17, www.kisobrani-cerovecki.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat
08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A
CROATA
Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store
in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more,
all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely
unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more
special.QC-2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), www.croata.hr. Open
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
DELICATESSEN
BONKULOVIĆ DELICACIES
Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delica-
cies.QI-2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07
89, info@bonkulovic.com, www.bonkulovic.com. Open
09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
ČAJOTEKA
All kinds of teas to collect and sip. Brits: this is the only pure
teahouse in town that we know of.QD-2, Iblerov trg 10 (Im-
portanne Galleria), tel. (+385-1) 483 37 11, info@cajoteka.
info. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
CROP STORE
Crop Store is a great place to call into if you're hunting for
Croatian gifts whether they be the ubiquitous red heart or
a bottle of Istrian wine. Here you will find everything from
artisanal chocolate to olive oil, from liqueurs to truffles and
honey. If we were to list everything then we'd still be typ-
ing. Please, go in, peruse the shelves, thank us later.QC-1,
Tkalčićeva 28, info@crop.com.hr, www.crop.com.hr.
Open 10:00 - 22:00.
GALERIJA KULIN GALOVIĆ
Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as
well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is
a meat-lovers oasis!QE-2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05,
www.kulin-galovic.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun. A
KREDENCA GIFT SHOP
Bring home a small part of Croatia with authentic products
manufactured from all four corners of the country. This cute
store has something for everyone including liqueurs, rakija
(for tasting), olive oil, honey, jam, wines, natural cosmetics,
jewellery, souvenirs, decorative objects made of ceramic and
Murano glass and more.QC-1, Radićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091
278 20 40/(+385-) 091 544 72 94, info@kredenca.com,
www.kredenca.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
PINKLEC DELICIJA
Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive
oils, truffels are offered along with most any other palatte-
pleasing product. Delight the senses with some cultural spe-
lunking and souvenir indulgence.QE-2, Martićeva 14c, tel.
(+385-1) 457 99 11. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
MORE STYLE FOR LESS CASH
BRITANSKI TRG ANTIQUE MARKET
Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the an-
tique market is bursting with flair and excitement.
Here you will find various decorative things, old books
and collectables of both local and international origin.
Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real
cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.QA-2, Britanski
trg.
HRELIĆ (JAKUŠEVAC) FLEA MARKET
You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter
brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea
market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam
packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes,
to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s
sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the
time to relish some of the authentic local food and
meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave
by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch
the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Station, this line is
available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. For
more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK-5, Sajmišna cesta 8,
Jakuševac.
ULIČNI ORMAR
The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and
this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage
and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s
purely vintage with some outstanding items up for
grabs. Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes
walking distance from the main square, come and en-
joy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each
piece.QD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65
00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn. J A 6
August Šenoa - The Goldsmith’s Treasure - The first Croatian
historical novel, a tale of forbidden love in the 16th century
Zagreb (also translated to English - find it at Take Me Home,
Croatian Design Shop, Tomićeva 4, other available places see
at www.facebook.com/thegoldsmithstreasure)
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2015/2016 55 zagreb.inyourpocket.com 54 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Shopping Shopping
SHATRO GALERIA
This lovely shop, stocks Croatian-only products - be they
picked or made by hand - from the islands of Mljet, Rab,
Vis, as well as Nin, Buzet, and of course the capital itself.
These products include a wide range of liqueurs, jams
from not so common fruits such as planika (Irish straw-
berry), and plavac - a grape variety also present in wine
form on the shelves. A full rundown of everything avail-
able would take pages…QC-2, Stara Vlaška 7, tel. (+385-
1) 562 77 33. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
QUIRKY STORES
BON TON
A fusion of music, art, and fashion, this addition to Za-
greb's music scene promises exhibitions, lectures, as
well as live DJ sets and concerts all aimed at bringing to-
gether those who have a soft spot for vinyl, disco, funk,
electronica, and much much more.QB-2, Dežmanova 5,
www.bontongallery.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00
- 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
GLASS ART ATELIER STAKLIĆ - GABRIEL GALLERY
Founded in 1984, Glass Art Atelier “Staklić” is led by Aca-
demic painter Dominique Jurić. Original Zagreb souvenirs
from the Gabriel’s Gallery production are on sale which
represents a series of city motifs (Šestine umbrellas,
Lotrščak Tower...) made in glass according to the Tiffany
technique. Keep the magic of Zagreb with you with the
ultimate glass souvenir. Simply announce yourself earlier
by email: staklic@staklic.hr.QE-1, Voćarska 25, staklic@
staklic.hr, www.vitrajidominique.com. Open 09:00 -
15:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
JASMINA I LUTKICE
A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and
stuffed animals.QD-3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098
79 57 73, jasmina.i.lutkice@gmail.com. Open 10:00 -
20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00.
KLOTO
Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic,
Lolita and Pinup.QB-2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487
26 59, udrugakloto@gmail.com, www.udrugakloto.hr.
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
PROSTOR MANUFAKTURNE SLOBODE (PMS)
An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate
hand-crafts and new age ideas.QC-2, Tkalčićeva 61,
javolimpms@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00
- 16:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A
ROBA STORE
Homing their own collection as well as boasting a well
chosen assortment of European fashion brands.QC-3, Pe-
tra Preradovića 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 46 81, store@roba.
com.hr. Open 10:00 -20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
SAŠA ŠEKORANJA GALLERY
Famous flower sculptor has opened a floral gallery in
Dežmanova Street which will host works, exhibitions,
book promotions and more.QB-2, Dežmanov prolaz 1,
tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. N
SHPITZA BOUTIQUE
A sweet vintage concept shop, here you will find all you
need from Spanish brand Kling, an array of home décor
from London, jewellery from Croatian designers, as well
as local artwork. And the great thing about the Croatian
items on sale here is that they're only allowed to be sold if
the artist and the work have an interesting tale to tell be-
hind them.QC-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 31 69, shpitza.
boutique@yahoo.com. Open 12:00 -20:00, Sat 10:00
-15:00. Closed Sun.
SILVER CLUB
Men have it easy. Need a tux? Rent one! Need a shirt? Every
store carries them! Thankfully for the women of Zagreb,
Silver Club is here to meet your needs. Want a bag or
necklace to go with your new dress? Silver Club can hook
you up. Silver Club is a members only accessory boutique
which rents out jewellery, bags, and the like, for two week
periods. It may sound unusual, but the foot traffic speaks
for itself. Silver Club does sell some smaller items, and once
or twice per year will hold a members only clear-out of
rotating stock. Ladies, take a look, because you won't be
disappointed.QB-2, Ilica 47/a, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 94,
www.silverclubrentafashion.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
AFFORDABLE ART
BOWLS AND PLATES BY LIDIA BOŠEVSKI
If you would like to include a unique bowl or plate
in your home collection, then visit the Atelier Lidia
Boševski at Vlaška 81a. After completing a degree in
Applied Arts, Boševski worked in textile and clothing
design, as well as product design followed by ceramics
in 2003. The acknowledgment of her work has helped
her gain a reputation as one of the astute Croatian art-
ists in the field of ceramics.
JEWELLERY BY DIANA SOKOLIĆ
Jewellery created by academic artist Diana Sokolić
received the silver award for fashion design (FRED cuf-
flinks - bracelets) at the International Design Competi-
tion in Italy, 2013. Thereafter, it was presented by British
Vogue, Tattler, InStyle, Marie Claire and Harper’s Bazaar.
This year, and at the same contest, she received the
bronze award for her fashion design (Lacey bracelets)
made with lace, and was once again famed by British
Vogue. This jewellery can be purchased at the Contem-
porary Art Museum (Avenija Dubrovnik 17), and the Arts
and Crafts Museum (Trg maršala Tita 10) and via www.
dianas.it
MONOGRAPH OF MIROSLAV ŠUTEJ - MO-
BILE SERIGRAPHS - AUTHORS: SLAVICA
MARKOVIĆ AND ZVONKO MAKOVIĆ
Šutej is a remarkable personality of Croatian art of the
late 20th century, and the name of a prominent interna-
tional graphic artist. Find his monograph at the Cabinet
of Graphics HAZU (Andrije Hebranga 1).
NECKLACES BY NENAD ROBAN
Necklaces from the project ‘Hommages’- Form follows
the artist - A project conceived as a kind of ‘hommage’
or tribute to certain individuals in the field of design, ar-
chitecture and fine art. You can purchase their works at
the Croatian Design Superstore (Martićeva 4).
REGENERACIJA CARPETS
Find your authentic interior perosnalised woolen car-
pets at Boškovićeva 7b. Various projects relating to re-
generation coincide with the works of young Croatian
designers whose ideas along with new technology cre-
ate a new generation of carpets that are real works of art.
REPLICAS OF CERAMIC PLATES BY EDO
MURTIĆ
Edo Murtić was known for his versatility and creative
development of expression in a variety of artistic tech-
niques. In particular, he nurtured a passion for ceramics.
Replica ceramic plates can be found at the Museum of
Arts and Crafts Shop (Trg maršala Tita 10).
REPLICAS OF THE GALLE LAMP AND MINIA-
TURE OF JESUS
At the Kerubin Gallery, on Kamenita 15, you can find
replicas of Galle lamp, laminated glass height is 54 cm
from around the 1980s, and miniatures of Jesus, monas-
tic work, from the 1780s era, dimensions are 16x13 cm.
SAŠA ŠEKORANJA BADGES
The artist has made a set of artistic badges with motifs
of stylised flowers which are taken from his very own
paintings, then photographed and further customised
in the shape of a badge. These can be found in the flow-
er Gallery Saša Šekoranja (Dežmanov prolaz 1).
FRED cufflinks - bracelets by Diana Sokolić
Monograph of Miroslav Šutejracelets by Diana Sokolić
Master of Croatian Naïve Art - Ivan Lacković Croata, Kerubin Gallery
(Photo by Višnja Arambašić)
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2015/2016 57 zagreb.inyourpocket.com 56 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Shopping Shopping
STRIPOVI NA KVADRAT
An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as
the best known English editions are hot off the press here.
Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and
gifts are also available and their website is updated with
the latest releases.QC-3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1)
483 77 77, prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr. Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
VEŠMAŠINA
Eclectic. Unique. Quirky. There are probably few enough
words to adequately describe this shop, placed at the top
of Opatovina. Caters to hipster kids, those needing clas-
sic business wear, it has hats, coats, shoes, boots, acces-
sories galore! If you're having difficulty picking up some
unusual presents then you need to pay a visit here.QC-1,
Opatovina 45, tel. (+385-1) 390 70 00, info@vesmasina.
com, www.vesmasina.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun. A
CITY CENTRE
SHOPPING
3
1
4
5
2
Ulični OrmarQD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1)
492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 -
20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00
V
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Galerija KerubinQC-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-
1) 485 16 98, galerija-kerubin@net.amis.hr, www.
galerijakerubin.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00
A
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U
E
S
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StripoviQC-3, Preradovićeva 34, (+385-1) 483 77
77, prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00
C
O
M
I
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S
3
Take Me Home - Croatian Design ShopQB-2,
Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@takeme-
home.hr, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00
G
I
F
T
S
Fashion Boutique DoraQC-1, Kamenita 2, tel.
(+385-1) 485 17 63, modnisalonDORA@gmail.
com, www.dora-rubic.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00
A
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Photo by Žarko Bašić/Pixell
4
LAST MINUTE GIFTS
PAPRENJAK - COOKIES
Mention of this sweet and peppery treat is found as far
back as the Renaissance. There is mention of its popular-
ity amongst the early inhabitants of Gradec (now Gornji
Grad) in Augusta Šenoe’s book ‘The Goldsmith’s Gold.’
These small, rectangular pastries are made using honey,
walnuts and pepper.
ZLATNI LICITAR (GOLDEN LICITAR)
Traditionally, a licitar is a bright red biscuit that is shaped
like a heart. It is beautifully decorated, with an icing-like
swirl outlining its borders, along with flowers and a small
mirror located in its center. Made of sweet honey dough,
the licitar, has been a part of northern Croatia’s cultural
heritage, since the 16th century, when the original licitar
makers were known as Medičari. Over the years, this co-
lourful heart has become a traditional symbol of Zagreb
and a classic souvenir.
EVIL RAKIJA
Rakija is unquestionably the juice of the devil, or maybe
that of the most severely distorted angel out there. Like
a brandy, this product is the result of fermentation of only
natural plants and fruits. We highly recommend that you
ingest a fair share of the stuff, only be careful for the effect
creeps up on you like Father Satan himself. Here’s a few
staff favourites, sampled with only the great care and wis-
dom of the most mature and practiced drinker:
Name Fermented Where it’s from
Travarica grass Dalmatia
Šljivovica plumb Lika
Kruškovača pear Lika
Medica honey Istria
Lozovača grape Dalmatia
Jabukovača apple Slavonia
zagreb.inyourpocket.com 58 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Shopping
Since Zagreb is a popular tourist hot spot, it is of no surprise that
there is a wide range of accommodation options from hotels,
boutique hotels, hostels, and private accommodation of differ-
ent categories and prices. While on the go, where to snooze
is indeed an important decision. In recent years, an influx of
hostels has opened around town which are extremely clean
and tidy, with attention given to the arrangement of the interior.
Private accommodation with apartments and flats are always
in demand while the hotel offer now includes an emergence
of classy boutique hotels. Detailed information in reference to
all types of accommodation is available on the web site and at
the Tourist Information Centres. All in all, there’s something for
everyone’s pocket!
5 STARS
ESPLANADE ZAGREB HOTEL
QC-4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax
(+385-1) 456 60 20, Info@esplanade.hr, www.esplanade.
hr. 208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €129 - 224, 48 Delux
Rooms €139 - 179, 13 Delux Suite €219 - 279, 1 Presidential
Suite €1600). P T J H A R 6 U I F L E G 
 B K D W hhhhh
SHERATON ZAGREB HOTEL
QD-3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1)
455 30 35, sheraton.zagreb@sheraton.com, www.hotel-
sheratonzagreb.com. 306  rooms (254  singles €105  - 135,
254 doubles €130 - 160, 28 suites €175 - 270, 23 Junior Suites
€130  - 160, 1  Presidential Suite €1000  - 1500). P J H 
 A R 6 U F L G B K D X C W hhhhh
THE WESTIN ZAGREB
QA-3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax
(+385-1) 489 20 01, westin.zagreb@westin.com, www.
hotelwestinzagreb.com. 349  rooms (308  doubles €125  -
170, 19 Westin Guest Ofce Suites €175 - 220, 1 Presidential
Suite €1500, 19 Executive Suites €260 - 310, 2 Delux Suites
€560  - 592). P Z O T J H A R 6 U F L G
B K D X C W hhhhh
4 STARS
ARCOTEL ALLEGRA
QD-4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469 60 00, fax (+385-1)
469 60 96, allegra@arcotelhotels.com, www.arcotelhotels.
com/en. 151  rooms (38  singles €170, 103  doubles €185,
4 suites €335, 4 Junior Suites €260, 2 Rooms for disabled
€170).P J H A R 6 U I F L E G B K D 
 S   W hhhh
BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTEL ASTORIA
QC-2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1)
480 89 08, sales@hotelastoria.hr, www.hotelastoria.hr.
100 rooms (36 singles €79 - 97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King
€93 - 125, 18 Twin €93 - 125, 12 Executive €111 - 150, 4 Su-
perior Executive €164  - 187). P T H A R U L G 
 K W hhhh
DOUBLE TREE BY HILTON ZAGREB
QJ-3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269a, tel. (+385-1) 600 19 00,
fax (+385-1) 600 19 16, www.zagreb.doubletree.com.
152  rooms (26  Guest Rooms Twin €109  - 209, 90  Guest
Rooms King €109  - 209, 2  Disabled Guest Rooms King
€109  - 209, 28  Deluxe Rooms King €135  - 235, 6  Corner
Suites €209 - 309). P H A R 6 U F L G D  C W 
hhhh
DUBROVNIK
QC-2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax (+385-1)
486 35 07, reservations@hotel-dubrovnik.hr, www.hotel-
dubrovnik.hr. 222 rooms (77 singles €89 - 99, 87 King Twin
Rooms €115  - 119, 50  Delux Rooms €129  - 145, 4  Junior
Suites €160, 3  Executive Suites €185, 1  Presidential Suite
€500). P O T J H A 6 U F L G B K X W 
hhhh
HOTEL INTERNATIONAL
QC-4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 81 00, fax (+385-
1) 610 86 44, hotel@hotel-international.hr, www.hotel-
international.hr. 207 rooms (140 singles €70 - 130, 56 dou-
bles €80 - 143, 8 triples €150 - 196, 1 suite €219, 1 Junior
Suites €150, 1  Presidential Suite €469). P O T H A 
 R 6 U F L G K D W hhhh
PALACE
QC-3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00,
fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, palace@palace.hr, www.palace.
hr. 123 rooms (23 singles €95 - 105, 95 doubles €115 - 125,
3 suites €250 - 255, 2 Junior Suites €180 - 185). P T J 
 H A R 6 U F L G B K W hhhh
3 STARS
CENTRAL
QD/C-4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax
(+385-1) 484 13 03, info@hotel-central.hr, www.hotel-
central.hr. 76 rooms (38 singles €65 - 75, 29 doubles €85 -
90, 5  triples €115  - 120, 4  apartments €140). P H A 
 R W hhh
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly
K Restaurant J Old town location
D Sauna C Swimming pool
I Fireplace W Wifi
B Outside seating
JADRAN
QD-2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax (+385-1) 461 21
51, jadran@hup-zagreb.hr, www.hup-zagreb.com. 49 rooms
(24 singles €74, 20 doubles €86, 5 triples €98). P J A
R 6 U L G K W hhh
JÄGERHORN
QC-2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483
35 73, info@hotel-jagerhorn.hr, www.hotel-jagerhorn.
hr. 18  rooms (3  singles €95  - 119, 13  doubles €115  - 125,
2 apartments €159). P J A L G B K W hhh
AROUND THE AIRPORT
ARISTOS
QJ-6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-
1) 669 59 02, aristos@hotel-aristos.hr, www.hotel-aristos.
hr. 150 rooms (5 singles €78 - 150, 134 doubles €84 - 160,
7 triples €130 - 190, 3 suites €190 - 240, 1 Presidential Suite
€350  - 460). P H A R 6 U F L G B K D X 
 S W hhhh
BEST WESTERN HOTEL STELLA
QNadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 636
46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella.hr, www.
hotel-stella.hr. 44  rooms (41  singles €70  - 76, 41  doubles
€100  - 114, 2  triples €128, 1  suite €141). P A U
LG W hhh
HOMESTAYS
EVISTAS
QD-3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 54/(+385-
) 091 533 70 96f, ax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@evistas.hr,
www.evistas.hr. 21  rooms (6  singles €35  - 45, 6  doubles
€40  - 52, 2  triples €59  - 63, 7  apartments €49  - 105).
P AL G
INZAGREB
QH-5, Remetinečka 13, tel. (+385-) 091 652 32 01, info@
inzagreb.com, www.inzagreb.com. P Z T A R 6 
 U F G B C W
MOUNTAIN HIGH
APARTMENT HOUSE SNJEŽNA KRALJICA
.Qoutskirts, Sljeme 4, Stubičke Toplice, tel. (+385-1) 460
45 55, fax (+385-1) 642 93 63, snjezna.kraljica@zgh.hr,
www.sljeme.hr. 17  rooms (16 4-bedded apartment €90,
1 8-bedded apartment €155). P T H A 6 U I F 
 L G B K D C W hhhh
TOMISLAVOV DOM
QSljemenska cesta 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax (+385-
1) 456 04 01, tomislavov.dom@zgh.hr, www.sljeme.hr.
41 rooms (11 singles €40, 14 doubles €56, 16 triples €60).
T H A 6 U F L G B K D C W hhh
Imperial splendour with 20th century comfort, all inspired by the Orient Express - Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Winter 2015/2016 61 zagreb.inyourpocket.com 60 Zagreb In Your Pocket
Hotels Hotels
BUSINESS CONNECTIONS
AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QK-3, Radnička 47, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77/(+385-1) 483
67 78, fax (+385-1) 483 67 76, info@amcham.hr, www.
amcham.hr. Open 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
CROATIAN CHAMBER OF ECONOMY
Freephone info: 0800-1852QB-3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel.
(+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@
hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,
Sun.
FINA - THE FINANCE AGENCY
Call centre tel. 0800 0080QI-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70,
tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, info@fna.hr, www.fna.hr. Open
08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
MINISTRY OF ECONOMY, LABOUR AND ENTRE-
PRENEURSHIP
QI-3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11,
info@mingorp.hr, www.mingorp.hr. Open 08:30 -
16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
LAWYERS
HRVATSKA ODVJETNIČKA KOMORA (CROATIAN
BAR ASSOCIATION)
Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not al-
lowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for in-
formation about specific lawyers that specialise in the ser-
vices you need.QB-4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616
52 00, hok-cba@hok-cba.hr, www.hok-cba.hr. Open
08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
NOTARIES
HRVATSKA JAVNOBILJEŽNIČKA KOMORA
Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country:
there is a primary association that you have to go through.
QD-2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1)
455 15 44, hjk@hjk.hr, www.hjk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00,
Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
PHARMACY 0-24
CENTRAL PHARMACY
QC-2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98.
DUBRAVA
QL-2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50.
ILICA
QG-3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21.
OZALJSKA
QH-3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86.
SIGET
QI-5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.
POST
If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can
buy stamps at pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they're
right value for what you are sending and where. Once you
put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the
small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.
CENTRAL POST OFFICE
QD-4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@
posta.hr, www.posta.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00.
POSTAL RATES
Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10kn
Abroad 7,10kn
Postcards (standard) Croatia 1,60 kn
Abroad 3,10 kn
TAX
VAT in Croatia is generally set at 25% and is due on most
goods and services. Lower rates of VAT are applicable to
goods such as bread and milk, and the tourism sector. Em-
ployers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities
all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their
incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is
determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up
to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and
11 000kn and 40% for a net income higher than 13 200kn.
Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law
determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an
amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable;
Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contribu-
tions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and
the employer pays an additional 15.20%. The minimum
startup capital for a limited liability company is the coun-
ter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits
the capital into a temporary account with an authorized
business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered
business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into
regular company accounts.
Lepušićeva E-3
Lisinskog B-1
Lopašićeva E-2
Ljudevita Gaja C-3
Margaretska C-2
Marićev prolaz C-2
Markovićev trg B-1
Martićeva D-2
Marulićev trg B-3
Masarykova B-2
Matičina C-3
Matoševa B-1
Mažuranićev trg B-3
Medulićeva B-3
Mesnička B-2
Mihanovićeva B/C-4
Miklouševa C-1
Mikulićeva E-1
Miramarska C-4
Mletačka B-1
Mlinarske stube C-1
Mrazovićeva D-3
Nikole Tesle C-2
Novakova D-1
Opatička C-1
Opatovina C-1
Palmotićeva D-3
Pantovčak A-2
Park Ribnjak D-1
Paromlinska C-4
Patačićkina D-2
Pavla Hatza D-3
Pavla Šubića E-3
Pavlinovićeva A-2
Perkovčeva B-3
Petrinjska C-2
Petrova E-1
Pierottijeva A-3
Pod zidom C-2
Posilovićeva E-1
Praška C-2
Preobražanska C-2
Preradovićeva C-3
Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2
Primorska A-2
Radićeva C-1
Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4
Radnički dol A-1
29. X. 1918. C-1
Aleksandrove stube B-1
Amruševa C-2
Andrije Hebranga B-3
A. Heinza E-1
Andrije Žaje A-3
Antuna Bauera E-3
Arnoldova A-2
Augusta Šenoe D-3
A. Marina Držića E-4
Bakačeva C-2
Barčićeva E-2
Baruna Trenka C-3
Basaričekova C-1
Bednjanska B-4
Berislavićeva C-3
Biankinijeva E-2
Bogovićeva C-2
Božidara Adžije A-3
Branjugova D-2
Brešćenskoga E-2
Britanski trg A-2
Brozova A-4
Buconjićeva A-2
Bulatova A-2
Bulićeva E-2
Čačkovićeva E-1
Cesarčeva C-2
Čirilometodska C-1
Crnatkova A-4
Dalmatinska B-2
Degenova C-1
Demetrova B-1
Dežmanova B-2
Domagojeva D-4
Đorđićeva D-2
Dubravkin put B-1
Dvoranski prečac C-1
Erdödyeva E-3
Felbingerove stube C-1
Florijana Andrašeca A-4
Frane Petrića C-2
Franje Račkog D-2
Frankopanska B-3
Froudeova B-1
Golubovac B-1
Grič B-2
Grgura Ninskog C-4
Gundulićeva B-3
Habdelićeva C-1
Harmica C-2
Hochmanova A-3
Hrvojeva E-3
Ilica A-2
Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1
Ivana Kukuljevića A-2
Ivekovićeve stube D-1
Jagićeva A-3
Janka Draškovića D-3
Jezuitski trg C-1
Jukićeva A-3
Jurišićeva C-2
Jurja Žerjavića B-3
Jurkovićeva E-1
Kačićeva A-3
Kamaufova E-2
Kamenita C-1
Kaptol C-1
Kapucinske stube B-1
Katančićeva C-3
Katarinin trg C-1
Klaićeva A-3
Kneza Borne D-3
Kneza Branimira D-4
Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3
Kneza Mislava D-3
Kneza Mutimira D-3
Kneza Višeslava E-3
Koranska B-4
Kordunska A-2
Koturaška A-4
Kovačića Ante C-3
Kozarčeva A-1
Kotarska C-1
Kralja Držislava D-3
Kralja Zvonimira E-2
Kraljice Jelene E-3
Kranjčevićeva A-4
Križanićeva D-3
Kršnjavoga A-3
Krutićeva E-3
Krvavi most C-2
Kumičićeva C-4
Kurelčeva D-2
Kuševićeva B-1
Laginjina E-2
Ribnjak C-1
Rokov perivoj B-2
Rokova A-2
Rubetićeva D-1
Ruđera Boškovića D-3
Runjaninova B-4
Šalata D-1
Savska cesta A-4
Schlosserove stube D-2
Širolina E-3
Skalinska C-1
Smičiklasova D-2
Splavnica C-2
Stančićeva E-3
Starčevićev trg C-4
Streljačka B-1
Strojarska E-4
Strossmayerov trg C-3
Strossmayerovo šet. B-2
Svačićev trg C-3
Švearova E-3
Brezovačkoga B-1
Tkalčićeva C-1
Tomašićeva E-2
Tomićeva B-2
Tratinska A-4
Trg Ante Starčevića C-4
Trg bana Josipa JelačićaC-2
Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1
Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1
Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3
Trg žrtava fašizma D-3
Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3
Trg kralja Tomislava C-3
Trg Maršala Tita B-3
Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3
Trg Petra Preradovića C-2
Trg Petra Petretića E-1
Trg Svetog Marka C-1
Trnjanska cesta D-4
Trpimirova D-4
Tuškanac B-1
Tvrtkova E-3
Unska B-4
Varšavska B-2
Vinkovićeva C-1
Visoka B-1
Vitezovićeva C-1
Vladimira Nazora A-1
Vlaška D-2
Voćarska cesta E-1
Voćarsko naselje E-1
Vodnikova B-4
Vojnovićeva E-2
Vončininova D-1
Vramčeva D-1
Vranicanijeva B-1
Vukotinovićeva B-3
Weberova C-1
Zamenhoffova A-1
ZGH Archives
zagreb.inyourpocket.com 62 Zagreb In Your Pocket Autumn 2015 62
TRAMVAJSKE LINIJE
TRAM ROUTES
ZAPADNI KOLODVOR - BORONGAJ
ČRNOMEREC - SAVIŠĆE
LJUBLJANICA - SAVIŠĆE
SAVSKI MOST - DUBEC
PREČKO - MAKSIMIR
ČRNOMEREC - SOPOT
SAVSKI MOST - DUBRAVA
MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE
LJUBLJANICA - BORONGAJ
ČRNOMEREC - DUBEC
LJUBLJANICA - DUBRAVA
ŽITNJAK - KVATERNIKOV TRG
MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE
MIHALJEVAC - DOLJE
PREČKO - BORONGAJ
1
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
11
12
13
14
15
17
2
MREŽA DNEVNIH TRAMVAJSKIH LINIJA
REGULAR TRAM SERVICES
29.10.2014.
D
an
ko
večka
Č
u
lin
ečka
A
leja javo
ra
P
o
ljan
ice IV
DUBEC
11
4
G
račan
ske stu
b
e
G
rač. M
ih
aljevac
G
račan
i
Jandrićeva
Radićevo šetalište
Gupčeva zvijezda
Belostenčeva
Grškovićeva
S
veti D
u
h
M
an
d
aličin
a
S
lo
ven
ska
Talovčeva
Jagićeva
Adžijina
MAKSIMIRSKA
Vodnikova
Zrinjevac
Klinika
za
traumat.
Draškovićeva
Branimir.
Branimirova
Branimir.
trž.
M
ašićeva
Jo
rd
an
o
vac
B
u
ko
vačka
H
o
n
d
lo
va
R
avn
ice
L
ju
b
ijska
K
ap
u
cin
ska
G
rižan
ska
Trg hrv.
velikana
Š
u
b
ićeva
Tu
škan
o
va
H
ein
zelo
va
Š
u
leko
va
H
aram
b
ašićeva
S
vetice
Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV
S
elska
N
eh
ajska
Trešn
jevački trg
B
ad
alićeva
Teh
n
ički
m
.
Stud. centar
V
rb
ik
S
veu
čilišn
a
aleja
M
iram
arska
L
isin
ski
K
ru
g
e
S
tro
jarska
D
ržićeva
O
lip
ska
R
ad
n
ička
H
ein
zelo
va
D
o
n
je S
vetice
Ivan
ićg
rad
ska
F
eren
ščica
Getaldićeva
Čavićeva
Učiteljski fakultet
Zagrepčanka
Vjesnik
Prisavlje
Veslačka
Arena Zagreb
S
tag
lišće
R
u
d
eška
Jaru
n
P
etro
varad
in
ska
M
. R
ad
ev
S
laven
sko
g
a
S
red
n
jaci
H
o
rvati
K
n
ežija
S
tu
d
.d
o
m
"S
.R
ad
ić”
S
avski g
aj
Trn
sko
V
elesajam
M
u
zej su
vrem
en
e
u
m
jetn
o
sti
S
red
išće
U
trin
a
Most mladosti
Borovje
Folnegovićevo
naselje
Slavonska
AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR
ČRNOMEREC
BRITANSKI TRG
MANDALIČINA
JANDRIĆEVA
RELJKOVIĆEVA
ZAPADNI
KOLODVOR
LJUBLJANICA
PREČKO
SAVSKI MOST
S
O
P
O
T
ZAPRUĐE
ŽITNJAK
SAVIŠĆE
BORONGAJ
DUBRAVA MAKSIMIR
DOLJE
USPINJAČA
HEINZELOVA
SVETICE
KAPTOL
MIHALJEVAC
TRG
MAŽURANIĆA
5
17
6
11
2
1
12
9
3
7
4
6
8
14
13
3
2
1
17
9
12
7
5
13
14
8
15 15
6
11
1
17
12
13
14
6
4
2
9
13
6
8
2
1
17
9
13
11 1214 8 4
7 5
12 131714 4 9
2 8 6 5 7
5
13
3 13
3
2
5 1714 4
7
14
8 6 7
Sheraton
Elka
Munja
Zagrebački
transporti
Tržnica
Kvatrić
TRG Vo
n
čin
in
a
P
etro
va
TRG BANA
J.JELAČIĆA B
ritan
ski trg
F
ran
ko
p
an
ska
Frankopan.
Rooseveltov
trg
V
o
d
n
iko
va
Trg žrtava
fašizma
MAKSIMIRSKA
MEDVEŠČAK
VLAŠKA
ILICA ILICA
OZALJSKA
B
o
tan
.
vrt
ULICA
GRADA
VUKOVARA
ULICA
GRADA
GOSPIĆA
ULICA
KRALJA
ZVONIMIRA
ULICA
DUBRAVA
RIBNJAK
TRATINSKA
ULICA
KNEZA
BRANIMIRA
ULICA
KNEZA
MISLAVA
ŠUBIĆEVA
DRAŠKOVIĆEVA
FRANKOPANSKA
SAVSKA
SAVSKA
JUKIĆEVA
PRAŠKA
AVENIJA
MARINA
DRŽIĆA
AVENIJA
DUBROVNIK
AVENIJA
MARINA
DRŽIĆA
HORVAĆANSKA
KVATERNIKOV
RAČKOGA
MIHANOVIĆEVA
GLAVNI
KOLODVOR
Trg dr. F. Tuđm
ana
L E GE N D A / L E GE N D
TRAM st. u oba smjera
TRAM stop - both directions
TRAM stop - one direction
TRAM st. u jednom smjeru
Autobusni terminali
Naziv ulice
BUS terminal
Street name
HORVAĆANSKA
LINIJE BROJ 1, 3 I 8 NE PROMETUJU SUBOTOM, NEDJELJOM I BLAGDANOM.
ROUTES 1, 3 AND 8 DO NOT OPERATE ON SATURDAY, SUNDAY OR PUBLIC HOLIDAYS.
ZAGREBAČKI
HOLDING
KONTAKT CENTAR ZET-a
Informacije: 060 100 001
Sugestije i pritužbe: 0800 200 060
poziv na broj 060 100 001 iz fiksne mreže:1,16 kn/min,
iz mobilne 2,36 kn/min (PDV je uračunat).
*
*
www.zet.hr
PODRUŽNICA
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