• AD Inlaid Picture _ - - _. M,n.

Information about Pliers Window and Curtain Improvements Making Brooches and Pendants A Weather-House ----An AlDusing Toy lor the Kiddies How to Fresh." up Your Bicyele How to make an a.T./L.T. Eliminator Make this Handy Disc Cutter· Replies 01 Interest -•-Pattern. for tho W eatber-House -

Page 401 403 404 405 406 4117 407 408 4iG 412 415


Made from this week's


later used as a backing piece for the inlaid picture itself, and will eventually be put back into the frame as the finished work, _ To cut the inlays, pin the four pieces of wood together, with the whitewood uppermost. Be sure that the pins art) outside the area of the picture: Now trace the design carefully on to the whitewood. It can, of course, be pasted down if desired, but this is not generally recommended in view of the tendency to warp unnecessarily when dampened. Pasting down also means that tl'le design has eventually to be cleaned off, thus necessitating extra work. Keep the Saw Upright Drill a fine hole in one corner of the picture, insert a fine sawblade (No. 00 or 0) and comrnende to cut, removing the pieces of the pattern one after the


HIS latest addition to Hobbies range Of fretsaw inlay designs should be welcomed. Entitled 'The Pond', it is a pleasing picture which should lend itself admirably to the medium. A specially prepared kit can be purchased for making the picture, and includes a panel of tin. wood to make the frame, four selected inlaid



other until the whole job is completed. Slight deviation from the lines of the pattern here wi!! be of no consequence as all the pieces being cut will be: exactly the same and must, therefore" fit when finished, At the same time, reasonable care should be taken to follow the lines of the pattern, and in any case it is of the utmost importance to keep the saw upright while cutting. '

panels of contrasting colours, and sufficient stripwood to make the overlay border. The frame should be made first. It is cut to the outline shown on the design sheet. The. outline should be traced off on to the wood, and when it has been cut a small hole should be drilled in one corner and the whole of the centre of the frame removed. This panel must be cutout accurately as it is
Editor, Hobbles Weekly, Dereham, Norfolk.

All co~respondenpe should be addressed

to [he



When all the pieces or'the design have been cut, choose those whose colours match those shown on the design, and glue them piece by piece to the backing board. This, you will remember, is the piece cut from the centre of the frame. See that the pieces fi t tigh lIy to gethe r, and do not be in a hurry. Let the glue squeeze up between the joins of the pieces so that the whole thing is. well filled. Now place a piece of paper over the picture and put the work under weights to dry thoroughly. Then clean off the paper with a suitable scraper (a piece of glass will serve if you have no proper tool) and finally clean up with a piece of , very line glasspaper, It is possible that you may find some of the joints inclined to be open, or even that some -srnall parts are missing altogether and require filling in. This will only occur, of course, if the work has been done rather haphazardly, or through accident; but it is as well you should know how to deal with these blemishes when they occur. A good method is to use a mixture of white glue=-Durofix .or similar-and sawdust of the colour required. The! mixture should be principally sawdust witb only sufficient glue to make the whole stick together. Rub well into the places to be filled, and leave to dry before levelling off. Suitable FinIsh This completes the main work and you sbould now provide a suitable finish for the picture. Apply a good brand of clear wax palish as used for furniture, and polish briskly with a soft duster. This will give the picture depth and also make it shine. A -sirnilar treatment from time to time, after the picture has been hung, will keep .it in excellent condition. Now put the picture aside and prepare

the stripwood border. This should be mitred and chamfered as shown on the design sheet. and glued into place on the frame. Take special care with the mitres, as ·badly cut joints will spoil the finished picture. The whole of the frame is now cleaned up, and either stained and polished or wax polished only, as desired. The worker might possibly like to make the mitred border lighter or darker than the actual frame for contrast. It will depend upon the -colour and quality of the actual wood; but whatever the finish chosen, the whole of the frame should serve to draw attention to the inlay picture and not away from it. In the finished illustration you will see that the mitred border is dark, and this would appear to be the most suitable for the picture concerned. SEND FOR A KIT For making\his picture you can obtain a kit (No. 3048) containing all necessary materials, including four selected -hin. panels of inlay wood, from any Hobbies Branch, or post free from Hobbies Ltd., Dereham, Norfolk, price 8/4, ( including-tax. '(

> >


The inlay picture is now placed in position from the back of the frame, and secured by pasting a piece of stiff brown paper over it in much the same way as when mounting a photograph. The backing piece holding the inlay picture stands proud of the frame by some -rlrin., of course, but this is of no consequence. Prepare the picture for hanging with two screw eyes and a length of cord, as is usual. If the picture is to be hung from a picture rail, a fairly. long length of cord will be required, but if it is to be

The worker will, doubtless, have noticed that apart from the picture he has made, he also has sufficient parts to make three ethers; Although the colours are not the same as those in the original" he Wlll find that be is able to match up two of the three which make up guile reasonable picnrres, while the third will possibly have La be discarded because the eolourings are not suitable. This will be readily noticeable when you remember that one of the sky pieces of the four inlay panels cut will be of dark wood and would look quite out of place in a normal picture. The two extra pictures the worker is able to make should not be discarded. Instead, find a couple of pieces of plywood or other suitable backing wood, and glue the pictures down as before. Then give them a framing of ordinary picture frame moulding, which is quite cheap to buy and you have another two passable pictures, It is doubtful if you will wish to hang them in the 'same house as the original, but you will have little difficulty in disposing of them either as gifts or for sale.


suspended from some lower wall fitting, then it is preferable to stretch a shorter length of cord fairly tightly between the two screw e~,esso that when the picture is hung on the fining, the cord is not

Other Uses As an alternative to making extra pictures from the additional pieces, they can be used as an inlay decoration 011 other articles you may be making. For instance, they could form parts of trays, firescreens, fancy boxes and other articles of furniture. Often quite small parts of a design can be used to enhance larger furniture such as cabinets and bookcases, etc. These produc-ts can be disposed of at a ' profit, provided the inlay work is done properly.

Window and Curtain Improvements
(Continued from page 404) the cord over a knitting needle, and bind round with a strong thread to form a small loop. Tie a few inches of twine through this loop, and then tie the twine to ring 4. . Draw the free end of cord towards the right-hand screw eye, and opposite the loop just mentioned, make a second one. Tie a second twine to this, and to ring 3. Detail sketch, Fig. 3, will help to make this plain.: Thread cord through the right-hand screw eye and let it hang down, with the first cord. Pull the latter.rand the curtains should be drawn apart, then shorten the second end of the cord to leave about 2ft., and fit that with an acorn also. The right cord to pull will always be the shorter one, whether to open or close the curtains. No mistake need occur if it is remembered to attach the top cord to ring 4, or the extreme ring on the right curtain, and the lower cord to ring 3, or extreme ring of left curtain. Arrange the cord to be as near to the curtain rod as possible. If the twine is tied to the rings with. a bow knot, which can be loosened ' by pulling, it will be easier and quicker to release the curtains when cleaning time arrives. The rings should be as 402

small as practical, and if the spring rod employed is one of the newer plasticcovered type, the running of the curtains will be considerably eased. (W.J.E.)

For some time past, the publishers of Hobbies Weekly have been contemplating a change of cover design to keep the Weekly on a par with modern publlcations, The modified cover is now ready and wiU appear on tbe first issue of the new volu_me which begins next week. Make sure of your copy.


Wi~dow and Curtain Improvements
unimportant, to cover the lot; and nail down, the whole being then as depicted in Fig. I. This detaiL also shows the front, or part of it, more strictly speaking, _ now to be dealt with. First, with a single well countersunk screw near each end, fix this main part to the top of the window frame. The plywood front part is then cut to the full length of the whole, and as wide as the pattern makes necessary. The pattern, of course, can be left to the artistic ability of the reader, but as a help or suggestion, three designs are given. That shown in the general view of tin. below this, bore a larger hole, which will pass over the head of the screw. Then make a slot of the smaller hole, extending to the larger one. Fix the front with the screw, driven into the middle of the edge of the end brackets. Do not fix too tightly, then if the front is pushed upwards until the screwhead comes opposite the larger hole, It can be lifted off. Painting The whole can now be painted any colour chosen, Perhaps a pleasing pastel shade of enamel would be as effective as any. Paint the side brackets to match, the remainder can be left plain, as it is not on view. If, however, an undercoat is put on first, the whole_ could be treated with that, and the finishing coat be confined to the front and outside of the brackets. A pair of screw hooks can be driven in the back bar, to hold a spring curtain rod for the curtains to run on. For the benefit of readers who wish to add the cord arrangement for opening and closing-the curtains mentioned at the beginning of thisarticle, here are the details of it. Drive in a screw eye, each end of the back bar, about iLn. above _ the curtain rod, and as far away from it as space permits. A length of fine

HE fitting. of a pelmet makes a pleasing addition to window curtains, and is very easily put together. A further improvement is an arrangement of cords, whereby the curtains can be drawn apart or closed with a single pull. This is time-saving where blinds are non-existent, as seems. to. be more often the case nowadays.
Mliking tbe Pelmet Dealing with the construction of the pel met first, this can be made up of deal for the main part, say, iin. thick, with tin. plywood for the front, or, perhaps, hardboard. The main part consists of a wood bar 4ins. wide and


Fig. 2 the completed article is quite simple and easily set out and cut, but quite effective in appearance. It is outlined with narrow moulding, glued and pinned, and neatly mitred at the corners. A diamond ornament is fixed central. Fixing the Front Altemative designs are suggested at (B) and (C) in Fig. 4, both of which lend themselves to embellishment with pinned-on ornaments or transfers. To fix the chosen front to its main part to be easily removable when access to the curtain rod becomes necessary, adopt the following method. At tin. from each end, and middle of the width, bore a hole to admit quite easily the shank of a stout round-headed brass screw. About

Fig. 4 whipcord will be needed. The length of this will be approximately twice that of the width of window frame, plus a couple of yards. This should be ample. Now study Fig. 2 which shows the arrangement of the cord. It will be seen that the curtains hang from the rod with three rings to each, • numbered I to 6, actually, of course, there may be many more, but the principle is the same. To one end of the cord fit a boxwood acorn. Take the free end, thread it through the right-hand screw eye, then through the left-hand one. Let the 'acorn' end hang down about 2ft., and get an assistant to keep it at that position. In the centre of the cord (between the screw eyes) double (Continued 011 page 402)

2ins. longer than the full width of the window frame, with end brackets, and a top to cover all. Having cut the bar, cut two brackets to the shape and dimensions given at (A) in Fig. 2. Screw these to the bar, one at each end. Now cut a top piece, thickness really




A Weather-House
Full-size patterns are on page 415
- glue and fine fret pins. The pattern sheet at the end 'Of this issue gives all that -is wanted to complete the novelty. The front of the house has some simple decoration and two arches in which the figures stand. The back is a plain outline 'Of the front, and the sides and roof are all plain oblong pieces. The sides go in between the front and the back, as indicated by the dotted lines, and the roof pieces rest en the top and are glued. The piece CA) must be fixed to the back exactly in the position shewn, with its hole nearer to the front of the, house. Pieces (B) are glued to the front edge of the roof and to the main front. Piece (C) has the figures attached to it and 'Oneend of the catgut will be glued into the hole in the centre. Next cut two pieces (D) and glue them together and make an tin. hole up through the centre. Cut two mere pieces (E) and fix together, but make a small hole in them into which the gut will later be fixed 'Or wedged. Glue (D) to the reef with its hole exactly ever that in piece (A) below, The working diagram on the right of the pattern sheet shews exactly tbe correct assembly 'Of the pieces. After the house has been cleaned up and finished, by painting or varnishing, the working parts may be added. The gut should be about 5ins. long and can be glued into piece (C), then pushed up through (A) and through the hole at the apex of the roof and through piece (D). The projecting end of the gut is then carried up and fixed into (E), care being taken that the platform (C) below will swing clear of the floor 'Of the house when this latter is added. After testing for length, wedge the end 'Of the gut into the block (E), or form a knot as shewn. The block (E), resting as it does on piece CD), can be turned, as and when required, to check the relative position of the figures. The f1eor, given full-size on the sheet, is added last and is screwed to the sides of the house. De net glue it in place in case certain adjustments should be needed later. In the experimental model of this weather-house, a piece 'Of lead about -fir in. thick and lin. by tin. was pinned OD underneath piece (el to keep the gut taut, but this may net always be necessary, and is governed by the thickness 'Of.the gut used. (S.W.C.)

OST 'Of us have seen one 'Of those mysterious little weatherhouses where two figures stand sheltered from rain 'Or sunshine. The lady has a parasol as protection against the sun, while the gentleman is coated in case of rain showers. When the gentleman steps cut from under his canopy, rain may be expected, but when the lady stands forth, sunshine and dry weather may be hoped for. The platform upon which the figures stand is suspended from t_heroof by a, length of catgut which is affected by the humidity or the dryness of the atmosphere. Thus the twist of the gut brings either one or the other 'Ofthe figures to the front, denoting the state 'Of the weather to be expected. Our little house is of the simplest construction aod easy to put together by


Artistry in Tinfoil
(Continued/rom page 405) Fine neal lines wiII result if the pen is used steadily in the 'Ordinary way. Care must be taken beforehand to see that : the glass is absolutely free from grease, otherwise the ink will net take properly. Coloured foils are fixed as described previously, except that gum is applied to the ink llnes with a verY tine brush. AD old brush with most 'Ofthe hairs plucked 'Out, leaving just one or two, wi!! be ideal. The gum should be left to become ,tacky before the foils 'are introduced. When complete, a card backing is fixed in place as shewn in Fig. 9. This is made in a similar way to the 'One employed on the plaque. Here, however, the card can be thinner and the cuts need only be very slender, and not go to the centre. If they stop tin. from _the rim it will be found sufficient. It is then - fixed with cement. It is net strictly necessary to fill the brooch with plaster unless a little extra weight is desired: If this is required the filling is accomplished as previously described. The whole unit is then cemented to a background ring of either wood or Perspex, the making of which has been described earlier in this series. Here the -ring width is only ;{-in.and the overlap tin. A final backing 'Oftough card fitted with a safety-pili (pushed through the card itself) is fixed behind the brooch with cellulose glue, Pendants are made in a similar way except that, as the work should be done on even smaller glasses (ladies' wristwatch types), it is hardly possible to incorporate an actual picture unless you are gifted with remarkable eyesight and even more remarkable patience.

It is best to draw with-the indian ink some simple design involving straight lines and the very minimum of curves. Heraldic shields, swastikas, or even squares, 'One inside the other, are ideal designs. The drawing can, of course, be done with pencil first on a piece of paper and stuck behind the glass temporarily. Alternatively, the foils can be gummed to very thin pieces of cardboard first. These are then cut to any desired shape and put together (mosaic fashion) to form a design that will fit the shape 'Of the glass. Finally it is stuck behind the glass, using a very thin ring of black enamel as the adhesive medium. A filling of plaster in this case will add to the security of'the pendant glass. The unit can then be finished as in the case 'Of ordinary brooches except that, instead of fitting a safety-pin, two small rings 'Ofwire are fixed one each side 'Of the backing to receive the ends of a very fine chain. (G:A.)


Y attempt to classify pliers must, of necessity, be incomplete, since many manufacturers produce a range of specialised types common to their particular brand. There are, however, a number of standard forms followed by most manufacturers. Probably the most common of 'light duty' pliers are the so-called chain-nose type with a tapering nose. They may be provided with side cutters, centre 'cutters, both or neither. They may be plain finished (i.e. bare. metal), . plated (not too common with _ cham-nose pliers) or just.- the handles painted or sleeved (insulated). They come in a variety of sizes and also differ in the shape of the head. Some, particularly the smaller sizes, may be tapered :in depth, so that the tips of the jaws are quite pointed. Short chain nose pliers are more robust and less likely to be d istorted than- long nose types. Jaw faces are usually, but not invariably. serrated, for improved grip. Flat nose pliers are useful for similar duties-a little more limited, perhaps, for general light work, but less likely to be twisted out at line. Long flat nose pliers are particularly useful for reaching down into awkward spaces to hold small parts in place when assembling complicated components.


More Information about Pliers.









The Duck Bill ~ A variation of the long fiat nose type is the duck bill-flat jaws again, but broadened out towards the tip and PLAIN rather shallower i!l depth. Faces are normally plain, with handles insulated. Their primary duty is for electrical work where they are particularly useful for adjusting- the' tension in contact and PlAIN relay springs, etc. They should not be used where strong 'gripping' action is required, owing to the danger of twisting the jaws out of parallel, Round nose pliers are the ideal toolJor making Small loops, etc., in relatively ductile or small gauge wire. With the wire length gripped between the tapered circular section jaws, a perfect loop can 00 formed by 'rolling' the pliers up the /.ISEFu(. F"OR wire. Normal opening is adequate for WIRE FORMING most light work, although parallel acting jaws are an <advantage when dealing with thicker wire, as there is less chance of the wire slipping out. Round VARIOUS ANGlES nose-and chain Dose-pliers are also produced with an angled head for manipulation of wiring, etc" within an assembly. work, the general purpose- type is a first Alltlie above types are essentially light duty pliers, particularly suited to, choice. The jaws are sturdy, with the electrical work, etc. For heavier gripping jaw faces fiat and serrated. A pipe grip is











usually provided for holding round stock and both side and centre cutters

on page




Brooches and Pendants
N last article we were completing the a w.·. plaque and had filled the back all with plaster. When the latter is a litUe higher than the level of the surround ring it is smoothed level with the back of the surround by using a flat piece of wood or plastic. It is then left to dry, which should take twenty-four hours. After this the surface of the plaster is given a thick coat of cellulose cement, to fill the pores, and is left to set. The inside face of the final backing, which, you will remember, was previously cut from


flush with the backing. The dowels can be made by filing square strips of Perspex to shape. A somewhat similar procedure to that used for making plaques is employed when brooches are to be produced like the one illustrated in Fig. 8. But since the work is executed on small watch-glasses, thus calling for finer workmanship, a different method is employed for the initial tracing ef the picture, Here the design is traced in black indian ink, using a mapping-pen. The watch-glass used should be no

picture must be very small and simple. 1t is not possible to reproduce complicated work ill such a small area. A single motif, such as a butterfly, flower, bird.rete. should be chosen, which will fit within the watch-glass and leave a clear rim no less than tin. wide at the edge of the glass. This rim can be painted with black enamel and is used to fix the background foil only. To ensure a neat edge to this rim, a circular piece of adhesive tape is cut of just sufficient diameter to cover the design, and it is. then centred

Fig. 8


Fig. 7 thick card or thin ply and fitted with a picture-hanger ring, is treated likewise. less than liins. diameter and care mustFinally the backing is glued in pfacc.as be taken that it is glass. If a plastic one shown in Fig. 7, and kept under pressure were to be used fine scratches would until set. appear on its surface when the foils If a large plaque has been made it is were cut. . advisable to drill six tin. diameter holes The tracing work is executed on the evenly spaced round the backing and inside face of the glass and the picture to near the edge, which should penetrate . be traced .is fixed to the front 0 f the ,\In. into the Perspex ring ..Tight-fitting glass with transparent adhesive tape. It Perspex' dowels are then fixed into the will be apparent, of course, that the holes with Tensol cement and made 40~
Fig. 9 on the glass. The rim can then be painted at ease, letting the enamel overlap the edge of the tape. When the. enamel is almost dry the mask is peeled off, leaving a fine edge to the enamel, The tracing is then done, A mappingpen holding a little indian ink will be found to be ideal for this. . (Continued on ,Page 406)



An Amusing Tov for the Kiddies
HIS simple toy is easy to make, costs next to nothing and will. give endless hours of fun. Two wooden figures, mounted on a length of string, wrestle with each other in a most amusing fashion when the string is jerked gently. Parts required are shown on the drawing. The 'body' of each wrestler is simply a length of dowel. You could eq ually well use square, instead of to und, wood of approximately the same size. The two arms are each about 31ns. Long and about tin. wide and roughly 1\in. thick. Legs are of similar thickness but slightly shorter. The legs could, in fact, be cut from spills. Assembly Tue legs' and arms are assembled as shown with small brads.or nails. Do not knock the nails right home as the limbs must be fairly free. Each figure is then completed by a 'cap' glued in place. A small wooden disc or even a button will do for this, The figures can be painted in bright colours-red for the body and yellow for the arms and legs, for example. A 'face' can be painted on in pink witb simple features drawn in ink. Each arm is pierced at the centre and



an ISins. length of string -is passed through these holes. One end of tbe string should be fixed, when tbe other is held in the hand and given a series of jerks, The figures will then dance and wrestle and, with practice, can be made to repeat all SOrtS of manoeuvres. (R.H.W,)


How to Freshen up
ITH spring upon us once more the keen cyclist will be taking his machine out of 'dry dock' for its annual overhaul. ALthough improvements are usually carried out with a tin of enamel and a brush, in far too many instances home enamelling falls, sadly short, of the desired effect and many cyclists feel that the job can only be done efficiently by the professional who can ibake' the enamelled frame in an oven between the coating operations. .The hardness and silky smoothness of the stove finish is, of course, beyond the average cyclist, but it is possible to approach it very closely. Strip the Machine. For really first-class results it is always necessary for the machine to be stripped. This not only enables it to be hung up wbile it is being enamelled, but a stripped frame is much easier to work with. The frame can .then be easily revolved so


that you can be quite certain no small corners are missed. Flaking and chipping will spread like an infection from any small unenameLied parts, so scrutinise your work carefully,
Remove Old Paint



You can, of course, produce a passable finish by enamelling over the old surface after it bas been smoothed with pumice stone but to do the job properly the old coat should be entirely removed and the fresb enamel applied to the bare steel. A little potash dissolved.in water-a cupful will do-and rubbed over the frame will soften the old 'coats sufficiently and then they can be scraped off with an old knife. Do not forget to clean the steel with a drop of turpentine and wipe it thoroughly before smoothing it with emery cloth. Cellulose enamels are by far the best ' and a good hint to keep in mind is that a 407

few drops of liquid metal polish will remove any spotsfrorn the skin instantly. The enamelling which shoiild be done with a nice soft brush must be carried out in a' warm room free, from dust. Remember, the thinner the coat the smoother it is likely to be, and only the tip of the brush should be dipped in the enamel. Before the machine is left to dry be sure to check the bearing-cups at the steering head for any enamel which might have found its way to the threads . After twenty-four hours the first coat will have hardened and the frame must then be rubbed down with very fine emery paper before the next coat is applied. You will be surprised what a difference it will make, too, if you reline your' biyycLe with transfer;;. (-T.P.F)

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How to make an 8.T ./L. T. Eliminator
By F. C. Rayer
vide suitable H.T. and L.T. voltages from the mains. Actually, H.T. and L.T. sections may be considered as separate, and it is quite' feasible to build up one section alone" such as that for H.T., retaining a battery for L.T. purposes. The eliminator is suitable for A.C. mains only. The circuit is shown in Fig. I, and this will enable the radio constructor to see how tbe unit works. The mains transformer has two secondaries, one for H.T. and one for L.T, As a smooth source of direct current is essential, rectifiers and smoothing circuits are added. The H.T. section of the eliminator may be considered first. For small sets, the transformer can have a 90 V H.T. ANY readers seem to be interessecondary. The output of this-is rectified ted in the possibility of operating , by means of the H.T. rectifier and a battery-type receiver from the smoothed by the choke and condensers. mains, and this may be done with an For larger sets, a 125 V H.T. secondary eliminator of the kind to be described sbould be used. (With small portables here. It can be used with the older type and similar receivers operated from dry of receiver which uses a 2 volt aecumubatteries, the H.T. voltage should not be lator and 90-120 V H.T. battery, or with increased over that normally used, 'all-dry' receivers using 1·4V and 60-90 V which will generally be 67t V or 90 V.) batteries. In each case both H.T. and A 125 V metal rectifier can be used for L.T. batteries are dispensed with . either type of set. It will usually be rated . Such an eliminator very considerably at about 15 rnA to 25 rnA, which is reduces the cost of running a battery set, ample as such receivers seldom conand the cost of the components is more sume more than about 10 rnA. further rectifier is used, and a variable resistor (R2) so that the voltage can be adjusted to tbe exact figure necessary. H. T. Circuit Parts The rectifier has been mentioned, and is a half-wave type. This has only two tags, and positive is wired to the choke. The smoothing condensers may be two separate components of 8 or 16 rnfd., or a 'double' condenser with 8 plus 8 tags, or 8 plus 16 tags. It should have a voltage-working rating of 125 V upwards-the normal 250 V condenser is satisfactory. It may be cardboard or metal cased. Condensers of the latter type usually have the metal casing as negative, and proper polarity must be observed when wiring or damage to other components is likely. The choke can be any small mains smoothing choke, and will usually have a rating of 40 rnA upwards. Alternatively, it is possible to use a resistor instead, of .about 1,000 to 2,000 ohms. If so, the value of the condensers may be increased to 32 mfd. each to compensate for the lower smoothing efficiency of the resistor. Tbe L.T. Section The transformer winding for L.T. should have an output of about 8 to 10 volts, and the rectifier is known as a full-wave type. Its voltage rating should be equal to, or higher than, that of the







8MFD -










Fig. I-The


0/ the

eliminator Fig. 2-The layout a/the components .. For LT. purposes, a much higher L.T. secondary. Its current rating must current is required-usually up to also be equal to, or higher than the '5 amp. (500 mAl for 2-volt type sets, or L.T. consumption of the set. For iarge ·25 amp. for all-dry sets. In this circuit a sets, a 12 V t amp. rectifier is satis-

than repaid by saving in batteries. No changes at all need be made in the receiver itself, which means that batteries can still be connected if this is ever required-as, for example, when it is desired to use a portable out of doors. Sucb an eliminator is designed to pro:


Small sets only need a 6 V rectifier, though a 12 V ! amp. ty.pe can, of course, be used. , For smoothing, very large capacities must be used, to avoid hum. Values of"" I,000 to 6,000 mfd. are suitable. These condensers will only be of a small voltage-working rating. As with the H.T. circuit, it is not essential to use two condensers of the same value. RI takes the place of the choke in the H.T. circuit, and will need to' be from 10 to 20 ohms, according to the value of R2. R2 is a rheostat or variable resistor of 5 to 10 ohms. If necessary, the value of Rican easily be changed, as wiU be explained. If an old transformer or choke core is to hand, a special lew-resistance choke can be wound for L.T. smoothing. To do this, a suitable bobbin-should be made from stout card and wound full of 20 S.W.G. insulated wire, as many turns as possible being accommodated. If such a choke is used, sufficient smoothing will still be obtained if the value 0.1::the condensers is slightly reduced.

t amp.


In the H.T. section, lead 4 goes to the H.T. secondary of the transformer. Lead 5 goes to the rectifier positive tag. Leads from the choke are taken one to each tag. On top of the chassis, the A.C. tags of the L.T. rectifier are connected to the transformer L.T. winding. The remaining end of the H.T. secondary is taken to the negative H.T. rectifier tag. The negative- tags or cases of the 2,000 mfd, condensers should be kept from contact with the chassis. This can be done by cutting a suitable piece of card, to fit under them, and by insulating the bolts which hold the condenser strap to the chassis. The -case of the H.T. smoothing condenser is clamped to the

Some care is necessary before connecting the L.T. output to the receiver, as excess voltages will damage the valves. For the all-dry type of receiver, connect a 2·5 V bulb and adjust R2 until the voltage at the L.T. terminals is just under 1·4 V. For small 2-vol! type sets, adjust' R2 until- the voltage is 2. For larger 2-volt sets; wire t)110 bulbs in parallel and similarly adjust. Increase the Resistance If it is impossible to get the voltage low enough, increase the resistance of _ Rl. Here, values between 10 ohms and 20 ohms will usually be wanted. The exact value depends upon the consumption of the receiver.


Constructional DemUs Fig. 2 shows the layout, and Fig. 3 wiring underneath. A chassis about Sms, square by 11ins. deep is, amply large unless the transformer. is fairly bulky. Actual dimensions are not - important. Such a chassis can be made by taking a piece of aluminium 5ins. by Sins. and bending two 1tins. runners as in Fig. 3. All actual tags of the rectifiers must be insulated from the chassis. Such rectifiers normally have a long central bolt, already insulated. Simple brackets, cut from scrap metal, can then be used for mounting. The condensers were similarly mounted, strips of metal being cut to form a strap round them, which can subsequently be made tight by means of a small bolt passed through lugs. The tags of the condensers project through the.chassis, fairly large holes being provide-dfor this purpose. For the older type of set, terminals are convenient for L.T. connections, as the spade tags normally taken to the accumulator can be fitted to these. Similarly, a 2-socket strip will accept the receiver H.T. plugs. For all-dry sets, it is possible to take the 4-pin socket strip from an exhausted battery (or the separate 2-pin strips from H.T. and L.T. batteries, if not combined) and to mouut over a suitable hole in the chassis runner. The battery connector can then be plugged in with ease. Referring to Fig. 3, lead 1 goes to the positive tag of the L.T. rectifier, while lead 2 goes to the negative tag of this component. These tags will usually be marked re-d .and black, or with the familiar positive and negative signs. Lead' 3 goes to the negative tags or cases of the 2,000 mfd. condensers.



the underneath wiring


chassis, which is wired to H.T. negative Having found the correct voltage to be as in Fig. 3. obtainable, turn R2 to' reduce the Mains connections to the primary of voltage somewhat and connect the the transformer are made with good actual receiver, switched on. Now quality flex, and no bare joints must be reduce R2 until the voltage is exactly permitted here. A 2-way tag board can correct-2 V for 2·volt sets, and just be used under the chassis to join trans- . under 1·4 V for all-dry sets using former leads and mains leads. 1'4 V dry-cell L.T. batteries. If no meter is available, first make Testing and Adjusting sure that it is possible to adjust R2 Wiring should be examined to make until a 2·5 V bulb lights with moderate sure there is no short-Circuit, and that brilliance. If it is too brilliant, increase condensers and rectifiers are wired in the value of R I. When it has been found the correct polarity. If not, condensers, possible to light the bulb in a manner rectifiers or transformer may be damequal to a 2 V or 1·4 V battery, increase aged. R2 to maximum resistance and connect It is best to provide a 'dummy' load the set. Now reduce R2 slowly until the set operates normally. for the first test---e.g., a 2'5 V torch bulb for the L.T. output, and 10,000 ohm Valve makers recommend that the resistor for H.T. With these connected, filaments of 2-volt valves be operated on the unit can be plugged into the mains, a voltage of 1·8 to 2'2 volts, 2 volts The bulb should Light, and its brilliance being desirable. All-dry 1·4 V valves should be operated at 1·25 to 1·4 V, a be controllable by R2. The HoT. voltage, as read with a good meter, should be nominal value oF1'3 V being desirable about 90 or 120 V, as the case may be. for continuous use. Careful measureIf no meter is available, plug in the ment with a reliable high-resistance H.T. leads of the receiver alone, and see meter is, therefore, best, as both underif the set operates normally, as when a or over-running is eventually detrimental H.T. battery is used. to the valves. 409


Make this Handy Disc Cutter'
OBBIES and handicrafts of all kinds regularly call for discs of paper or cloth-for decorative purposes, pincushion-top covers, baize doth base linings, Iampshade sections and many others. -The .usual way of cutting these. circles of material is to mark them out with pencil compasses, and cut round (rather laboriously if there are several required) the line with scissors. A much better way of cutting discs is provided by the gadget described here. It is simply a disc of wood about ;fin. thick of a diameter about l!ins. larger than the required discs of material. On the circumference of the wood disc a small piece about tin. wide is cut out and refixed with two thin round-head woodscrews clamping between a piece of razor blade, with the sharp point protrUding not more than about .win. on the underside. Fig. 1 illustrates the idea. To. cut the discs, the wood circle is placed over the material, and made to revolve on a strong panel pin tapped through the centre. By pressing down firmly 'Dn the wccd whilst revolving


out the material en a softwood beard, where no. damage can result (say, to a table underneath the material). By keeping the same centre pin hole the razor point will travel the same cut line in the board each time, thus making the action much easier. Discs Without a Centre Pin Hole Quite often, discs may be required without the slight disfigurement of a central pin hole. In this case the gadget

should be made up as in Fig. 2. Now the wood disc should be pivoted upon a woodscrew countersunk into the underside (with a washer under the bead) and mountedon'a bridge of stripwood, say, iin. by l!ins., between two wood blocks /B) which should be only slightly thicker than the wood disc, to just give clearance. Note the four -small metal spikes which are set in the inner corners of the wood blocks to grip the material being cut. In action the material is fed




~ . ~APOI"T.








Fig. 1




along in wide strips beneath the. bridge. discs with this gadget it is very necessary to have- the material pulled out quite smooth; in the first case drawing pins may be required to hold the material firmly. Another method is to cut various strips of wood and set in them three or four small spikes which may be tapped through the material; the wood strips clamping it down to the work-board -quite firmly. (R.C.)
In all cases of cutting Fig. 2


slowly in the direction of the arrows, perfect circles of material will be cut out, all the same diameter. If the material is thick and tough, however, only one layer at a time should be attempted; thin tissue paper will cut half a dozen at one go, The razor blade soon gets blunt; it is necessary to. experiment a certain amount with the protrusion of the point on the underside. If it is teo much, it will flex and break off. Too little, and it will net penetrate the material aU round the circle. It is, of course, necessary to. cut


Have you entered for our Grand Fretwork Competition yet ? Remember that the closing date is April 30th. Send; yow' entries to the Competition Dept., Hobbies Ltd.,? Dereham, Norfolk. (


*C _IDGE~~~~~ D
Ideal Cydfsts'~


OPPER WIRES, enamelled, tinned. cotton, silk covered. B.A. 'screws, nuts, washers, Stamp fur Iist-P.R.S., 33 Bourne Gardens, London, E.4, UPLEX Self-adhesive Transfers fur d.". orating fancy goods, trays, plastics. etc. List and sa~ples 3d.-H. Axon Harrison, Jersey.

A GRAND BOOK FOR ALL' THE FAMILY. The "Kaylee Yea, Book of Bright Ideas '". A r"ally helpful guide to etc. Shewing famous Kaylee Trans-(@rs in briUiant colou rs, and most': effective uses. From "Hobbtes " stockists. _ Of direct, KAYLEE TRA NSFERS Postage 3d. LYD., (HW) Lonr Eaton, Nottingham.
heme planning. decoration. Hobbies,



ing base" 41<. 6in. wid." 3f" 6in. high, 12in. wails. ll/15/- or 6/- deposit.and 6/- monthly. With flyshect, £4/2/6 or 151' depcsle and 919 monthly. Both <orr. r 16.


ours cempjeea, Lcngd~ 7ft. 3:in. :S!{!~P_~

Road, Hoddesdon.

OLL'S HOUSE fittings and DS.A.E. for list. Doll's- House send 216. Trade Supplied.-Zimplan,

papers. Send plan, special, 88 Ware

!~JJJE!~rD~E~~r ~. 'Sent for 22'6 ~
Portable but verv seeut doth. Complete. Please $tate ca tal o,g,uas req u ired.


A MERICAN MAGAZINE Subseripiion s. One flyear Popular Mechanics 32/-. Popular Science 28/6. Homecraftsman 16/6. Popular Homeeraft 18/-. Deltagram 9/-. Free booklet quoting others. - Willen Ltd. (Dept. 57), 101 Fleet sc, London, E.CA.
,'T'OY CASTING MOULDS. Soldiers, sailors, 1airmen. .10" 1.000 varieties from 3/- each. Rubber moulding compound for flexible moulds, granulated ready for use, 8/6 per lb. Aluminium moulds for plaster work. S.A.E. for list. Catalogue 9d.-F. W. Nuthall, 69 SI. Marks Road, Hanwell, London, W.7. ARQUETRY veneer bargain. 20 Mveneers I 0/-,in Sample packet unnamednamed 2/6. 100 varieties stock. - Kirby. Veneers, LYWOOD offcut s, Assorted sizes, suitable toymaking, etc. Parcel. at 10/- C.W.O., plus 9d. towards pcstage.e--Green, 8 Shaw St., Liverpool.ji, DIFFERENT stamps approvals. ...., Bush, Road, Bournemouth. .

HITE. red or piebald mice 5/3 pair delivered. Books about mice 3/6. Price. Iist 2d. Star! this amazing bobby loday.-Pitt Francis, Mouse Farm, Ferndale, Glam. HIPS in bottles. Parts, plans, struetions, 3/-. Ship in electric light bulb, pian. 2/-. Four large toy plans, 2/-,-A. Phillips, 47a Linden Gardens, Chiswick, London.


Extend. appro". 10ft. X 6ft. x 6ft. Walls ·3ft. Finest value offered. Real ~iU:erpro,of canvas. pric. £9/12/6 or sene for Xl/6 dop. and 15/mthly. Carr. 5/. Send for free illustrated catalogues 01 all our watches. binoculars, radios, cameras, tents, ma rquees, tarpaulins, _telescopes. etc., TERMS. HEADQUARTEfl. & GENERAL Supplies Ltd. (Dept. HOBW/4), 1961200 Coldharbour Lane, Lcughborcugh Junction,Londorf.S.E.5. Open all day Saturday. I p.m. Wedn •• day. .

322 Penman St., Nottingham.


Illustrated CONJURING.Hempsey, 363 Iid.-De G!,-rdens, Surrey.

catalogue of magic Sandycombe, Kew


free. }d. upwards 939 Christchurch

YOU can build


TAMPS FREE - Empire Packet includin_g Pictorials and Victorians with approvals.Robe" J. Peck, 7A Kemp Road, Bournemouth. EW AND USED Correspondence Courses, Educational Books, bought, sold: NCourses, 28 Dean Road, London, N.Catalogue W.2. ODELS. You can make lasting stone-.hard model' with Sankey', Pyruma Plastic Cement. Supplied in lin, by Ironmo ngers, Hard waremen and Builders' Merchan's. Ask for instruction leaflet.


Mouldings, Upholsterers. Present T.O, apbrox. £40 per week, £2,Soo including F'hold & Stock (appro x. £1,000). FuU particular, On application to=-Randalls, 23 Railway Street, Chatham, Kent. 'Phone: Chatham 3203/4. EAD Handweaver and Spinner for advice on handweaving. Quarterly 1/6. AI! newsagents or 6/6 year. Specimen 1/8.-'Ha.ndwCll"~r', 29 Pane John Oast, Canterbury. -.. UILD your own' canoe. Complete kit and plan for less than £6. Send 1/- for photograph, and literature to-J. Lofthouse, 42 Shawbridge St. Clitheroe, Lanes. FREE STAMPS! Just send for unbeatable value approval •. =-Walker, Daggons Everton, Lymington, Hants, RINTS far model sea-going tug, electric, Length 14ins, overall, hoig,ht 8in s,, 51- post free. Money refunded 'if not suitable.M. M. Willey, 28 Clifton Rd., Sunderland, Durham. FREE British Colonials, Request approvals, 2td. postage. Worldwide, Stamps, 16H Culver Rd., Leicester.

1\ "EDWAY TOWNS,KENT-Goodbusines" 1V !suit young couple, MOdels, Plywoods,



It enables you to butld Houses, Inns, Railway Stations,Signal 'Boxes. or from your own 'magination. Air ~ilw;ay models will fit 10' ,gauge Ic:afe~. Buitdings can be permanent Or dlsmanelad by merely soaking in water and the bricks u.sed ailin and again. Price Brickpl'yer Kit 3 15/6 B,ickplayer Kit 4 ... ... ... ... 47/6 A«e.,ory 0 urf e 3A to con rt Kit 1 !nee Kit 4 lS/6 ACCESSORY PACKS No. Contents 100 100 Full·size Brick. ,... 211 I 101 52 ~-Srick. and 72 i-Srick> 2/11 102 Gable and Pe.k Bricks ... 2/11 8113 Sheens 01 Roof THini 17t'x II i' IOd, BI14 I r~' length of Capping Tile. 2d. 112 Concrete RooAng " 1/ II 115 Roofing Cement .. , .. r .•• 9d. 8107 2 Bay Window. with 31 Splay Bricks 3/6 8167 Bag of Brlckplayer Cement 1/2 METAL OR PLASTIC WINDOW AND DOOR FRAMES FI F2 F3 f4 F6 F8 FrO 7d. Sd. 6d. -Id, Hd. lid. 6td. BI08 She.", or Glazing, 1~'x6' (Plastic) .,. 11d. If yoor dealer eanncr supply, write for addrou of nea rest s~ocki.se to:




LONDON 78a New Oxford se., W.C.I (Pho.ne MUSeum 2975) 87 Old Broad Street, E.C.l (LONdon Wall 4375) 81 Ser eatham Hill, S.W.2 (TULse Hirl 8796} GLASGOW-326 AerYle Street (Phone CENtral 5041) MANCHESTER-In (Phone CENtral BIRMINGHAM-14 , Piccadilly 1781) Bull Rin, Parad .. Street




SHEFFIELD-4 St. Paul's (Phone 26011) LEEDS-IQ Queen Victoria (Phone 28639) Paragon -15


TAMPS FREE!! Twenty unused; G. H. Barnett, Limington, Somerset.



Square Bernard St. Streee

NTIQUE COppe,r. and brass wanted for export to U.S.A. Warming pans, lea kettles, candlesticks, fireplace accessories. Also fine china tea services, etc.-John Rumbold, Woodbridge Connecticut, U_S.A. .


8R.ISTQ.!--30 Narrow Wine (Phone 23744}

MIRACLES of Modem Magic. Includes to make a solid object vanish and reappear. Sent under plain cover. Price 31 I.-Adams (Dept. H.), 4 Cross St., Loughborough, Leics,








(Dept. H)




account of the commercial methods. Such may be found in Chemistry iii Commerce, vol. IV, page 1490 (George Newnes), You should be able to see this at a reference library .

the price). (B.M.-Mitcham). . NUMBER of volumes cover the suhject of disc recording to varying extents, depending upon whether amplifier information, etc., is also required. Some of the larger volumes are very expensive. It is suggested you write to the Modern Book Co., 19-23 Praed St., London, W.2, asking for a list of books on the subject. A number of small booklets have been issued by Barnard's, and may be obtained from Clydesdale Supply Co., 2 Bridge St., Glasgow, c.s, or most radio shops. Briefly, you would require a fairly powerful motor with turntable, and a tracking mechanism to draw the cutter across the record. The cutting head is operated by an amplifier delivering 10 watts or more. For home purposes, tape recording has now superseded disc recording as it requires less expensive equipment and the recording may be played back an increased number of times.

PLEASE tell me the best instruction book for making disc recording (and

Book on Disc Recording


trust her again, but replace your birds with another pair. Or you could give her a nest of dummy eggs to sit on, and transfer the other eggs to a fostermother.

AM considering synchronising my camera for I box tell me whereflash photographs. Please the flash should

* Synchronising a Box Camera

Swanage) •

operate, i.e.-at exactly the same time as the exposure is made or a fraction of a second before exposure? (A.H.so arranged that the occurs THE synchronisationflashshould when the shutter operi. The intensity of
be is

1.- build myself an electro-plating kit, and how. (A.D.-Cape Pro~ince).
OR simple Fobjects, therenickelbeplating of will needed :-

Electro-PIating Kit 1)LEASE tell me if it is possible



them by rolling them out of the nest and smashing the shells with her beak. COIl you advise me how to Slop them from eating allY more? (D. W.M.-Rhymney). HE eating of eggs by birds is an extremely bad habit, once acquired, and very difficult indeed to break. You can try her again but if she persists in carrying on this breaking and eating of her eggs, it would be advisable not to

pair of budgerigars 1and am atrying twoyoung: from broken to breed them. The hell has laid eggs, but

• * Trouble with Budgerigars


2 or 3 dry batteries connected in series A glass jar or small tank: to hold the solution Thin copper wire for the leads A rod across the tank from which to suspend the articles to be plated Nickel ammonium sulphate. The article to be plated must be thoroughly polished to mirror brightness, then boiled in vinegar, washed, then boiled in sodium carbonate solution (washing soda). It must not be touched with the hands after the boiling treatment, for fine grease films from the hands will prevent adherence of the nickel. The plating solution is made up in the proportions of one teaspoonful to half a tumbler of water. When the crystals have dissolved, pour the solution into the plating vessel, attach the article to the negative wire and a stout iron nail to the positive wire. Hang article and nail in the solution." When sufficiently plated, wash, dry and buff up. This is a very simplified version of plating procedure, but gives quite good results provided care is taken with the cleanliness of the article. Chromium plating demands much more control and equipment, but if you wish to work up to this, you should first read a good

light from the flash is very high, but instantaneous, and if you had it firing a fraction of a second before the exposure was made, the light would all be dissipated before the shutter was open.


them down because I wish 10 paint them. (T.E.H.-Leicester). OU should be able to get a reasonable finish on your walls by rubbing them down with a medium glasspaper, and finish with a washable distemper. The distemper should be thinned down and stippled on, not painted in the usual manner, to get the best results. A good stippling brush will do the job easily.

THE walls of myis hut are lined withI rough Cellotex sheeting, and wondered it possible to smooth

Painting Cellotex Walls


T HA VE a set of components 10 build a l"crystal set; what sort of material would J- wam ill the base to pin these 0/1 to? Would wood or zinc do for the job? (A.B.-Inch). NY insulating material such as wood may be used for the crystal set.

Base for Crystal Set


Information about Pliers
(Continued from page 403) are commonplace. General purpose pliers are available with both normal and parallel Jaw opening. The lineman's pliers are again a heavy duty type, with cutters, but no pipe grip. The remaining pliers illustrated are a selection ftom amongst the group of heavy duty types which can be used for normal 'pliers' duty, as a pipe wrench, in place of a spanner (although this is not generally recommended) and similar heavy duties. Those shown have slip jaws (slip joints) which enable them to be adjusted to alternative jaw openings to suit particular requirements. The thin type provides a wrench action in narrow spaces-the angled head version being particularly useful in some restricted working areas. Combination. pliers are a useful tool for the motor-car kit and similar servicing jobs, the thicker head providing greater rigidity. 412

Parrot head pliers also have their particular sphere of usefulness-the narrow serrated jaws giving an excellent gripping action on flat stock, etc. The classification now borders on the realm of pipe wrenches, etc., which cannot be illustrated due to space limitations. The final tool illustrated is the lesser known locking pliers which have hardened vice-type jaws and normally a screw adjustment to open and close. The jaws can be set to any position, gripping the workpiece for use as a hand vice, etc., making it a useful addition to a first-class tool kit. (R.H.W.)

You can build this ship
from the book













This ship, the 'Hispaniola' is a. reminder of Long Jobn Silver and J, m H. wk ins from the famous novel 'Treasure bland' by R. L. Stevenson. With Hobbie, Kit No. 2852 you can make a fine waterline model 19ins. long. Kit contains everylhfn,s: you need in wood, rod for masts and spars, deadeyes, parchment for sails, cord for rigging lines, and fult-s! ze· working plan. Use the form below and send for a Kit today.

r~ HO-;;;-E~L;.:Oe-;t:99~:'';a:, N~oll<I o
Please send me Kit No. 2852, the 'Hispaniola', enclose P.O. for 19/3. N A M E___ _.-r-__ "
__ •..... _


) J



I __!


YOUR OWN plans and pictur-es gible to,st yourseH you

-=.-.=-==-="=-=._= .... =-=-:_-.===-=YOU CAN MAKE


.. ~.____ _




This is the great new printing and colouring process (or amateurs or professionals alike and all handicraft workers. 11$ versatility is enormous. Jt will print a few copies, or hundreds. to a professjonalstandard, in solid colours or ln tricate desi gus, on cloth" paper, wood .• etc, Print notices, greeting cards, dra wings, paintings in full colour, photographs, type-script. Fluorescent colours, suede /lock and novelty finishes, transfer papers for printing your own transfers also available. Can also be use" as firstrate duplicator witb any typewriter. cwbere is such a large and com pre hensi ve o Lltfit , offered fqr so f ttle money. Hund re <is 01 custom ers testify to the quality and ama2ing ralue, Do not miss this opportunity,


Stout Laminated WOODEN BASE Patented ADJUSTABLE H1NGES (for printing on material up to ,. thick) Fine Quali,y SQUEEGEE SIX CONTAINERS COLOURS - Red, Blue, Yellow, Green, Black, White STENCIL FILM (design traced and applied with bot iron) STENCIL CUTTERS and HOLDER, Register Guides> gi vlng st"p by step procedure for every applicauon of process. including PHOTO STENCILS. DAYOLO, FLOCK finishes, etc. for

~a~~lj~i: 6~J~SE e


(padud n,,, ,/y for ;",m.dia It







This famous book needs little introduction. With stmple how to make atl manner of Home Workshop tools and eq IJ j p ment. At :J n(::;11meeertsed witt''! ;a complcec " workshop. (cm~
prO""ide~FE~~~~ it shows-

Still a few left PRICE -2/- FROM
HOBBIES Ltd., Dereham,


prising Circular. Band and Jig Saws, Laches, Drills. t-tculdees,

etc., made mostly from scrap hardwood and
Thi:!i is. a MUST BOOK flh~t~S, for every


etc .•

~:~i!lt:;I~~f~:t~~~~~!~~tj~~d a~td'
wor kee-, eoeper-Ienced .1 ike. 1116 POst paid. or lnexpertenced





The all-rami Iy hobby WALL PLAQUES, GIFTS and ORNAME NTS, etc. No special equipment needed. Adds pounds to your income.

The machine complete with moulds (t?y soldiers, brooches. ornaments etc.) and plastic material.


Illustrated Leaflet (rom

Only £14-0-0
Dept. H., 167 VICTORIA




Making Toys, Models or Novelties is a paying pastime-



my Plasticine

A Treadle Fretmachine provides a faetery in the heme. The treadle movement is easy, the machines running smoothly and fast. It is astound ing the arnou nt of work they will de in weed up to' tin. thick. Beth hands are free to' handle the work which can be manipulated up to' 1ft. 7in. behind the sawblade. Machines are cornfertably operated frem a chair, rigid' and easy running. The A1. has cast legs with wooden arms and special tension arrangement, Spare sawblades, a design and/lnstructiO'n Manual supplied with each, ~~i~~eready Carri~ge

Yes, 'Plasticine' is quite irresistible! Get some today and see how easily you can make aU sorts of fascinating models. You can buy it at stores, stationers and toyshops, in 16 attractive colours. Ask for ·Plas· ticine' and refuse substitutes.



p~~~~:; ~~~. *~~~~
(Made in Sweden)

~z~ ~z~


Men and womer.-wanted to ma.ke Bennett Model Bunga.lowsat Home.•
dean well poid No se-Jling p,woJved~ Send $'amp~ addressed envelope for full derails. BENNETT MODEI.S, Richmond, Surrey

£7 -19-6
paid U.K.


Full range 0( Machines ""n lH! .een at any Hobblu Bronch. Or ask parlicu/ar. stor ... or fron.monger •. I1lustraled leaflets free on requesl to Hobbie" Ltd.



Suppliers for over 18 years of Radio S.W. Receivers of quaUty.

D.reham, Dep!. 99,


Valve Kit, Prlce lS/-.

TwO' Valve Kit, Price SO/-

Improved designs with Denco coils. AU kits comp1et,e with aU component'S. accessories a.nd full instructions. Before ordering, call and inspect a demonscrarlon receiver, or send stamped addressed envelope for descriptive catalogue.






Street .. London,






Patterns for the Weather .. House
(see page 406)

- -. - - "1:LOWERlIN E


- _- - - -,-




Veneer laying is one of many jobs best done with Durofix. An, adhesive of exceptional strength, Durofix sticks almost any material with a permanent join that is heat proof, waterproof, and practically invisible. Durofix is also a good insulator, ideal for-many fixing jobs in radio and TV work. Keep Durofix always handy for workshop jobs and home repairs.

Look fo« the name Rawlplugyour guarantee of finest quality.
Tubes 9d., 1/3 & 5/· Tins 2/9 & 10/6 THE RAWLPLUG COMPANY

S.W •





SKARSTEN SCRAPERS for ha ndicrafts If your hobby is woodwork, you need a Skarsten Scraper for smooth finishing'. It is the most efficient smoothing tool ever designed and gives a finish superior to the old-type steel scraper and glasspaper, A NEW CO STRUCTIONAL CRAFr Toy animals, birds and reptiles of prehistoric appearance made from offcuts from the manufacture of Skarsten Scrapers. No other material required but sandpaper, liquid glue and enamel colours. SKARSTEN MANUFACTURING CO. LTD. Welwyn Garden City, Herts,

- No Fumhling

- Pilfer Proof

- No Oeterioration



Pri."l(ed by B.ALDING& MANSELL, LTD., London and Wisbech, and Published for the Proprietors, HOBBIES, Lrn., by HaMel! M/IRSHALL & SON, Lrn., Temple House, Tam, Street, E.C.4. Sole Agent. for Australia and New Zealand i, Gordon & Gotch (A'sia) Ltd. For South Africa: Central New. • Agency Ltd. Registered for tranarnis •.ion by Canadian Mag."ine Post. ~

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