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John Bennett Additional research: Marty_T3 and Fry1
This document considers donor engines from the UK 200sx S13, S14 and the S15. It assumes you are experienced in engine removal and fitting, concentrating on the main ‘difficulty’ – electrical wiring. At the back of this document a more detailed mechanical fitting guide is included by Fry1. Air-system is not considered in detail, as factory service manuals show this for you, and it is open to rearranging anyway. I take no responsibility for you blowing up your ECU/engine etc due to errors in this document, or your own cack-handedness. This is just a guide, read the service manuals if you’re not sure (that’s where I got all the info from). Engine/Mechanical Fitting Overview
S14 & S14a
• • • • • • Straight fit on engine mounts and gearbox. Use original S13 propshaft. Speedometer may require speed sender from S13 box to operate correctly? Throttle cable to plenum mount sits further forwards than CA18 so fixing cable is not possible, - use either SR20 throttle cable, or alter/recreate a new mount. Wing Intercooler can be used as a temporary solution. IC Pipes may need to be crossed over. Exhaust will not fit. Custom, or combine S14 downpipe, decat pipe and S13 rear.
• • • Straight fit on engine mounts. 6-speed gearbox requires S15 mount as it is bolted in a different place along the gearbox. Also the 2 holes on flexible section of mount require filing to oval them by about 5mm as the 4 gearbox mounts holes will be about 5mm out otherwise. 6-speed requires splines from S15 propshaft to be spliced onto the original S13 propshaft (propshaft specialist will charge about £60). Unconfirmed rumour that S13 automatic propshaft may have the correct splines. Rear section of propshaft must be from an ABS S13 as ABS differential is required for speedometer (ABS diff is 2cm longer than standard diff). ABS diff is identifiable by sender unit by the mating face to the propshaft Speedometer signal is generated by the ABS computer from the magnetic sender on the rear differential. ABS sender is present on S13 and S14 ABS diffs, so S15 diff is not essential. Signal is unipolar square wave and will not drive S13 dash. More info later. Throttle cable to plenum mount sits further forwards than CA18 so fixing cable is not possible, - use either SR20 throttle cable, or alter/recreate a new mount. S13 PAS pump can be adapted to fit with additional metal on bracket, but belt angle is precarious, so not recommended. Wing Intercooler can be used as a temporary solution. IC Pipes may need to be crossed over. Exhaust simply requires rotation of the downpipe flange to fit. Stock S13 system severely restrictive however.
• • • • •
Fitting an SR20 should have no effect on the ABS system (in UK cars), but this has not been verified yet (all cars tested didn’t have ABS), so if you get an ABS warning light flashing, please contact me.
ALL ENGINES Remove the starter/alternator loom from your CA18DET. Fit it to your SR20DET. All the starter/alternator/oil pressure plugs should be a straight fit, although you may need to enlarge the ring terminal for the alternator with a circular file. I don’t know if the 3 gearbox connectors are the same for SR and CA 5-speed boxes. If they don’t fit, hack the CA18 gearbox plugs off and solder in the SR20 plugs. The 6-speed box has different plugs for neutral and reverse sensors, so I attached them to the wires of the corresponding plugs on the S13 loom. 6-speed has no speed sensor. If your S13 loom is tatty, remove the black tape (keep the plastic protection bits though), wash it in soapy water, dry and re-tape it. Your SR loom may be nicer looking, but using the CA loom allows you to plug it straight back into the engine bay connectors by the fuse box without any serious rewiring.
as they are going to be attached to the SR20 main loom to provide power etc. Lop this off with about 5cm of wire as we’ll graft this plug to the SR20 loom too. tacho and water temperature). speedo. This provides 4 connections (start signal. You need to extract the 2 plugs from the harness along with their wires. under the airbox (there’s a black relay/fuse box there). Extract the wires as far back as you can (to within 20cm of the ECU connector. but I didn’t want my CA18 loom and I couldn’t be arsed to source and join more wire. These sockets provide power to the ECU. An alternative would be so just hack off F8 and F10 and solder on a couple of meters of wire to each pin.Take your S13 main engine loom (the one with the ECU on one end). There are 2 plugs (F8 and F10) that go to sockets by the passenger headlight. as well as the signals from the gearbox. . if possible). Also there’s a plug (F3) just next to the ECU connector (see right). just cut it). This will involve removing lots of tape. and cutting any wires that branch off to other parts of the loom (don’t worry – if it’s not going to the ECU connector.
now you need to take the main ECU loom of your SR20: .Ok.
. as the SR20 loom has its own relays built-in (as you’ll notice when you have to unplug them to push it through the bulkhead). so we can forget about joining those wires too. Connector F10 1: N/C 2: 12V when Fuel Pump activated 3: N/C 4:12V when ign on/start (via 10A fuse) 5: Neutral switch signal from gearbox 6: Signal wire to enable fuel pump 7: Signal wire to enable air-con Relay 8: Signal wire to enable ECCS relay Connector F8 9:12V when aircon is activated 10: N/C 11: Knock sensor shield 12: IGN coil 12V supply 13: 12V from battery 14: ECU power (from ECCS relay) 15: Knock sensor 16: 12V when IGN on/start Connector F3 17: Output from speedometer 18: Tachometer 19: Water temp gauge 20: Start 12V signal.On the previous page you saw where we would be adding wires to the SR20 loom. Here is the pinouts of those 3 plugs & wires extracted from the CA18 loom: Take note of the numbers. The wires from the S13 ignition coil and ECCS relays won’t be used. Fortunately we’ll only need a small selection of these wires for the conversion. they’ll be referred to later. The knock sensor is built into the main SR20 loom. We now need to look at the wires we’re adding.
Do not attempt to connect the loom to earth anywhere else. The ground connection to the ECU is provided by two ring terminals that bolt to the plenum. The pin diagram is ‘Terminal Side’ – meaning that’s how they’re numbered when you hold the pins/sockets to face you. then you can join onto its wires instead (as opposed to T-ing off / or slicing the wires to F4) and plug it in. The plenum is then connected to the battery ground with the earth strap. To be sure. When joining wires. These are to help you double check you’ve wired stuff in correctly (see the testing page near the back of this document). In the following pages. notice that pins above 100 are thicker with larger housings.Basically you take a selection of wires from the previous page and splice them onto connector F4 Connector F4 is connected directly to the ECU connector . then it may be worth fusing some of the new wire links. if you’re getting your SR20 from a breaker then try and get the corresponding interior connector to F4 – slice it off a few cm from the connector. Those horrid blue clip things people over-use when fitting car stereos would do the job. or the battery connected. Where a fuse should be added. Likewise do not do any soldering with the ECU in place. soldered it and taped the lot up. Ideally. I guess. Pin 40 is the thick black wire in the far left hand side of this photo. If you can get a couple of in-line fuse holders (basically a fuse in a plastic socket with 2 wires coming out of it). ECU pins have been given too. and is a leftover plug after you’ve plugged all the SR20 sensors and ECU onto the ECU loom (see page 4 for a diagram of where it is on the SR20 engine loom). If multiple connections have to be spliced to one wire and all require fuses. . When finding a wire pin on the ECU connector. Also note the locator on the top middle of the plug. I’ve put a Y in the ‘fuse column of the tabkes’. Pins 1 to 32 are the little pins on the grey side. just use one common 10A fuse for them all. and do connect the ECU without a proper ground connection. F4. . This should help you avoid getting it upside down/miscounting. A schematic diagram is also given to help you see the purpose of the wires that are actually being joined – this is mainly for reference. as they should ideally have 10A fuses. tables are provided to tell which S13 harness wires (page 7) are connected to which wires on F4. I then wrapped the S13 wire around the exposed SR20 wire.
.S14 loom connections.
I S14 loom connections Connection ECCS Relay in IGN coil relay Start Tacho out Speedo input Neutral IGN ON/START VTC. Lambd Fuel Pump AAC CAS Dash Temp Gauge Diag Lamp Check Consult RX Consult TX Consult Clock Consult Ground Consult Power F4 32 40 30 7 5 12 48 29 22 31 35 4* 28 19 8 18 15 10 40 Colour Red Black/red orange yellow/green green/orange Brown Brown Black/yellow Black/yellow Black/White Yellow* Orange green/red green/black green green/white Black Black/red Target 13 16 20 18 17 5 16 16 6 13 F4(36) 19 Colour red black/red orange yellow/red yellow/green green/orange black/red black/red Black/pink red blue Fuse Y Y Label A B C D E F G G2 H I J ECU 58/109 43 7 53 44 45 45 18 Y Y Y 32 47 21 22 31 50/60 - EGR Slice off plugs and splice to F4 (info to come) BOOST Attach a 10k ohm resistor between pins 3 and 40 of connector F4 to operate an S13 CA18 tachometer from this ECU. using instructions later on in this document. . WG. *not-verified – please check this is correct.
S14A loom connections .
using instructions later on in this document. WG.S14A loom connections Connection ECCS Relay in AAC IGN coil relay Start Tacho out Speedo input Neutral NATS VTC. *not-verified – please check this is correct. Lambd Fuel Pump Dash Temp Gauge F4 32 31 40 30 3 5 12 29 22 4* Colour Red Black/yellow Black/red orange/blue blue/black yellow/green green/orange Brown Black/yellow Yellow * Target 13 13 16 20 18 17 5 see NATS section 16 6 19 black/red Black/pink blue Y Colour red red black/red orange yellow/red yellow/green green/orange Fuse Y Y Y Label A B C D E F G H I J ECU 46/109 36 34 2 32 35 8 106 - Diag Lamp Check Consult RX Consult TX Consult Clock Consult Ground Consult Power 28 19 8 18 15 10 40 orange Green/red green/black green green/white black Black/red 24 23 7 15 14 39/48 36 Attach a 10k ohm resistor between pins 3 and 40 of connector F4 to operate an S13 CA18 tachometer from this ECU. .
S15 loom connections . .
S15 loom connections Connection Battery in ECCS Relay in Solenoids Start IGN ON / INJ Tacho out Speedo input Neutral NATS Fuel Pump Dash Temp Gauge Diag Lamp Check Consult RX Consult TX Consult Clock Consult Ground Consult Power F4 32 31 40 30 3 5 12 Colour Red Black/yellow Black/red orange/blue blue/black yellow/green green/orange Target 13 13 16 20 16 18 17 5 Not on Japanese ECUs 6 19 Colour red red black/red orange black/red yellow/red yellow/green green/orange Black/pink blue Fuse Y Y Y Y Label A B C D E F G H I J ECU 46/109 34 36 2 32 35 16 106 (or 104) 24 23 7 15 14 39/48 36 22 4 28 19 8 18 15 10 40 Black/yellow Yellow orange Green/red green/black green green/white black Black/red .
The other is a little black box – the IMMU amplifier. but try and get the harness plug and a few centimetres of cable as it gives you something to join onto. . The original key is also essential. You don’t need the interior wiring harness – grab the aforementioned units. with a Siemens sticker on it.NATS (S14a europe) You need these 2 units. One is the halo unit that goes around the key barrel.
but one of them is black. Start the car with your normal S13 key. Join wires from pins 5 & 6 to the ECU harness on pins 8 and 25. and the NATS will do its stuff. The IMMU pinout is at the bottom of this diagram (M59) . . The IMMU needs a ground connection. Likewise connect IMMU pin 3 (green) to S13 wire 16 (black+red) (see page 5 again). but just bung in an LED if you want it. Put the key in the halo. The NATS unit can be positioned anywhere – you could even permanently tape the key in the halo and hide it all in the footwell. It has 4 wires. so join the wires on IMMU pins 8 & 9 to the ECU connector (either wires 39 or 48). Solder that one to the wire from the NATS IMMU box on pin 10 (Green + white stripe). A security indicator is an option. I forget the colours. as above. Colour codes should match up in this case. so take this off wire 13 (red) on S13 connector F8 (see page 5).The ‘Antenna Amp’ is the halo unit. It also needs a power supply on pin 4 (red). Join the other 3 wires from the antenna amp in the diagram order (again forget the antenna amp colour codes).
ABS computer (part of ECU loom) and a rear diff with an ABS sender unit to get a speed signal (S13 ABS. Will update the guide when it is completed. Consult: Wire a consult to RS-232 converter board to the pins on F4. there is a driver in the ECU do operate a bulb to indicate electronic faults. If you’ve purchased one of my boards. listed in the pinout tables. so all you do is add the 10k resistor to make them work with the SR20. with a 1k ohm resistor in series. as its resistance is matched to the gauge on the dash. Diagnostics lamp: As in the NATS section. beware that the RX pin on the board goes to the TX pin on the ECU. S15 owners need the S15 gauge cluster. speed limiting etc). You can do this at the ECU end (put the resistor between the tachometer pin on F4 and a IGN ON/START wire (splicd to black + red). S14 or S15 diff will do). The ABS computer calculates the vehicle speed and tells the dashboard (which in turn tells the ECU for boost control. but if your speedometer doesn’t work with an S14/a SR20. S15 does not need a clock connection. To put the light into diagnostics mode. It should be about 600 ohms when cold. Water temperature gauge: You’ll need to transfer your CA18 water temp sensor over to your SR20. Shorting the pin to 12V for 2 seconds puts the LED into diagnostics mode. but to double check I’ve got them right. The speed signal is not compatible with S13 speedometers. Where to do this on the wiring loom. on connector F4 is listed in the earlier tables. measure the resistance between the given F4 pin (4) and the bodywork. An LED could be used instead. The wires to splice are in the table. Speedometer: Unconfirmed here. I’m working on a home-made unit to allow you to drive an S13 speedometer (analogue or digital) from any ABS diff (without need for ABS computer). If you happen to have a KA24 tachometer (I do). and TX on the board goes to RX on the ECU (I swapped the labels by mistake). SR20 sender does not appear to operate the CA18 speedometer correctly (reads too low). Alternatively pull out the tachometer and attach the resistor between the signal and ‘IGN’ screws on the back. swap the speed sender on the gearbox for your CA one. . contact me as I’ve written up how to adapt these to CA18’s (easily). Wire this to a spare bulb on the dash if you wish (one pin goes to the ECU.Additional Stuff (all engines) Tachometer: The signal to the tachometer needs a 10k ohm pull-up resistor to make it work. wire a switch between 12V IGN and pin 23 on the check connector for S15/14a or pin 47 on S14. the other to 12V IGN signal).
Future issues: Air Conditioning. If you really want it to work.Testing Before connecting the ECU. Don’t forget to check the start signal (orange wire. Mistake corrections: Bound to be a few – that’s why it helps if you understand what you’re doing. or improvement suggestions. and switch on/off depending on how the key is turned. More re-jigging/rearranging/simplifying. You know an ECU is alive when you turn the key to IGN. Nicer pictures. Load wires: give ECU additional feedback for regulating revs when defogger and headlights are on. and with the aid of a pin/needle. The ignition may have to be on for this to work. the warning lamp (see previous page) will come on as a test. The current may be up to 1 amp. . and the ECU clicks on its ECU relay. put one probe on the body ground. as this may stop the fuel-pump from operating. Check continuity between ECU ground pins and ground in the cabin. A blown ECU is not cheap to replace. short-circuit any pins that operate relays to ground. You can check injectors with this method too. then go off when the key is turned to start. contact me and I’ll have a think. and it’s just extra weight. check each wire you’ve spliced to exists on both F4 and the ECU connector (use a continuity test). Also use the multimeter (on voltage) to check all 12V connections work. If connected. as it’s unlikely they’ll not work as you shouldn’t have touched them when splicing looms. depending on how it is wired. but leave this for troubleshooting if the engine refuses to start. number 20. Any issues. This will help you check you’ve connected to the correct wires. Put the multimeter on the current setting. PLEASE TAKE YOUR TIME doing the wiring. unless it is disarmed.. please tell me. No plans to do this as I never had it anyway. page 5). using the tables provided. ECU relay is the most important to check. it is advisable to test your handywork Firstly. You should hear a click from various places in all cases (or a whirring noise for the fuel-pump relay pin). Also be aware of any aftermarket immobilizer you have fitted.
EGR (14a don’t have or need the latter two) from the s14. Ideally hang from rope through front. and the warning led from the dash. I’m not going into every nut and bolt because if you have to worry about the tiny things then you should maybe consider getting some one else to do the swap for you. You can’t remove it completely as there’s one up on top under the dash. Right. Loosen of the engine mounts on the sub frame. turbo-side slinger and plenum Y-bracket. AFM. It will fit the same as if you were putting the CA18 and box back in. which makes re-fitting the engine easier The SR will fit onto S13 or S14 engine mounts. more for refitting than removal. assy unit . its really not worth skimping on an oil filter. ECU and AFM. Main parts you need: Sr20det engine and gearbox S14 metal hot pipe from tubby S13 accelerator cable bracket holder from plenum S13 temp sender. boost sensor. immob. using an s14a engine and s14 wiring. here is a little bit of what’s needed. ECU. I have been told there are issues with mixing 14/14a CAS/AFM and ECUs.e. driver side first then passenger. just slack enough to pull away from the bulkhead . there is more room on passenger side. Don’t forget to remove gear stick. now is it? The removal of the engine is straight forward. oh yeah . single spade connector for dash temp display S13 alternator/starter loom S14 brass restrictor from fuel return pipe(not sure how essential this is) S14 radiator and pipes S14 heater hoses Carrier for s14 ECU S14 NATS 2: You want the NATS 2 ECU. also slacken off the oil filter. its much easier while its out. get the loom. If you’re using the older s14 loom to do away with NATS 2 (although the wiring is probably less complicated on the 14a loom) i.which is a little black box located next to the ECU.should be enough Remove s13 ECU and engine loom. . With the engine mounts loose it should be easier to drop the engine onto them. possibly CAS too.Fry1’s Mechanical guide: Well seeing as there’s a few wondering what’s involved exactly. CAS. fit the alternator/starter wiring loom onto the SR. either fit new before you put it in or replace once its in.and the master key and any spares you can get Matching loom. It’s easier to loosen off the ABS bracket to help in access to the big plug that seals the loom at the bulkhead. the halo from around the ignition barrel. but if you get the lot from an engine that’s working then you should have no problems Before you do anything. They’re on slots and slide up a little. remove with gearbox as a complete unit. Remove plastic trims in passenger side to gain access to ECU Remove glove box and metal trim behind I found it easier to remove the bolts holding in the fan and heater unit to give a little better access for pulling loom both in and out.
S15 heater hoses fit S13 bulkhead with a bit of waterproof tape to enlarge the outer diameter of the bulkhead pipes. so a new downpipe was required. Make a carrier plate to bolt the s13 accelerator cable holder onto then bolt the lot onto the plenum. but this is not recommended due to skewed belt angle. For S15 SR20 you can get away with cutting and rotating your standard exhaust. straighten the bent one. As a temporary measure I crossed over the original s13 WMIC pipes. There was a little restrictor in the fuel return on the s14a parts I got. engine harness earths at rear of plenum. and bend the long one at the end. main earth to plenum. if you don’t you wont get a reading on the interior gauge. Get this at the universal joint. . . only need alter the hot pipe from s14 to fit. Swap over the temp sender on the SR for the for the CA one. make sure you get interior wires above the interior brackets for the heater unit. it was right in the end of the return pipe coming off the FPR . by a specialist (<£60). I cut off about 2” and inserted them inside s14 ones with a little fairy for lubrication (liquid that is). remove the passenger side air vent outlet on top of the dash. with bracket modification. cut out and push it in. which then were nearly a direct fit back onto the s14. on the rear left hand side you will see a cut out for the NATS 2 warning LED which is the same as the one you have.Bolt everything up.make sure you get supply and return the correct way round.just make sure you get the right connectors. the s13 gearbox cross-member and propshaft fit straight on for S14 and S14a SR20 gearboxes. On fitting the loom be careful not to strip any wires on the bulkhead. weld them back onto s14 ECU carrier. You can make or adapt the following: The s13 power steering pipe bolts onto the s14pump. same thread will fit straight in. they will tuck nicely up into the top left of the foot well along with relays. S14 ECU housing can be used to bolt the ECU into the same holes as the s13 ECU. it doesn’t matter which way around it’s wired as it generates a pulse. you will have 2 wires for reverse light switch. This is only to get it running I wouldn’t recommend extended use or high boost The connector for the speed sender on the gear box was different so I just cut them off and joined them up. and small earth from rear of engine to bulkhead. so they match the ones on the s13 ECU. Make sure you refit all earths. it’s located down under the inlet to the plenum.cut off the original brackets on the S14 carrier. Similarly. S14 heater hoses are bigger. S15 6-speed box requires the splines of the S15 propshaft to be spliced onto the S13 propshaft. My stainless exhaust was too short to refit my S14 SR20. If you use NATS 2. 2 for speed sender and 2 wires for neutral position switch. not in the original position and the locating pin no longer sits in the correct place but it does bolt up. the S13 ones fit inside the S14 ones which then fit lovely back onto the s13 heater pipes coming out of the bulkhead. the CA18 PAS pump can be made to fit the SR20. so I put it back in the fuel return on the s14.