KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

Basic Sewing and Mending Machine

Operation Manual
Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

“IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”
When using the sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: “Read all instructions before using.”

DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. 2. Always unplug before changing the light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts.

WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons: 1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near children. 2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4. Never operate the sewing machine with any of the air openings blocked. Keep the ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth. 5. Never drop or insert any object into any openings. 6. Do not use this machine outdoors. 7. Do not operate this machine where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. 8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “O” position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet. 9. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord. To unplug, grasp the plug and pull, not the cord. 10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle. 11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 12. Do not use a bent needle. 13. Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break. 14. Switch the sewing machine to the off, symbol “O” position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin, or changing the presser foot. 15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user service adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual. 16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or impaired persons without supervision. 17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this sewing machine. “SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS” “This sewing machine is intended for household use.”

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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.

IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug. NOTE The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted. WARNING DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW. The wires in this main lead are coloured in accordance with the following code: Blue Brown Neutral Live

As the colours of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows. The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘N’ or coloured black or blue. The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘L’ or coloured red or brown.

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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE
To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation 1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the handwheel, thread takeup lever, needle, or other moving parts. 2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when: • Operation is completed • Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts • A power failure occurs during use • Maintaining the machine • Leaving the machine unattended 3. Do not store anything on the foot controller. 4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords. For a longer service life 1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects. 2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used. 3. Do not drop or hit the machine. 4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation. For repair or adjustment In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer. For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

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............ 31 Sewing stretch fabrics ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 30 Sewing curves ... 32 Basic stitching ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 26 Starting to sew ..................... 30 Sewing thin fabrics ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................25 SEWING ................................................................................................................................................................. 20 Sewing with a twin needle (Option) .................................................................... KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ...................... SEWING BASICS .....................................................................................................................................................................23 Replacing the presser foot ...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................12 Winding the bobbin ................................................................................................................................................................... 11 THREADING THE MACHINE .............................................................................................................................................. 19 Checking the needle ................ 30 Sewing thick fabrics ................................................................ UTILITY STITCHES .................................................................—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— CONTENTS 1.... 38 4 ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 8 ACCESSORIES ..................................... 25 Selecting stitching ................................................................................................................................................................... 27 Sewing in reverse ................................................... 33 Blind hem stitching ........................ 16 Drawing up the lower thread ..................................................................................................................................................................9 USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 35 BUTTONHOLE SEWING ................................ 38 Button sewing ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 33 Darning ........32 USEFUL STITCHES ........... 6 Needle and presser foot section ............................................. 8 Flat bed attachment ........................... 23 Removing the presser foot holder ...................................................................................................................... 10 Power supply ....................................................... 31 Using a free-arm style ... 30 Trial sewing ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................36 Making the buttonhole .............19 Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 12 Lower threading ............. 28 Thread tension ................................................................................................................25 General sewing procedure ............................................................................................................................ 10 Foot controller .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 36 Adjusting buitching stitching ... 22 REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ...................... 19 Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types ........ 6 The main parts ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 31 3.................................................................................................................. 32 Zigzag stitches ...................................................................................... 14 Upper threading .................................................................................. 11 Steadying the machine ................................................................... 24 2...................................................... 20 Replacing the needle ................................................. 18 REPLACING THE NEEDLE .................................................... 30 Changing the sewing direction .................................................................................................. 28 USEFUL SEWING TIPS ........10 Power supply precautions ..................................6 NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ..........................................................................................

............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... APPENDIX . 43 Shell tuck stitching ................................................................................................................................. 40 APPLIQUÉ...................................................................................................45 Oiling ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 45 Changing the bulb ................................. 48 TROUBLESHOOTING .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ZIPPER INSERTION ....................................................................................................................................... 46 Cleaning the feed dogs ...................................................................................................50 INDEX ... 44 4............. 47 Repacking the machine ............................................................................................................................................................................ 41 Appliqués .............. 43 Elastic stitching ....... 41 DECORATIVE STITCHING ..................................................................................................... 53 5 ........................................................................................................................................... 45 Cleaning the machine surface ... 41 Monogramming and embroidering ................................................................... MONOGRAMMING AND EMBROIDERING .....................................................................................................................................................45 MAINTENANCE ........................................................................................................................................................................ 46 Cleaning the shuttle race ................................................ 48 Bobbin case tension adjustment ............43 Gathering ................................................................................................

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— 1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS The main parts a Buttonhole fine-adjusting screw (page 38) Turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw to adjust buttonhole stitching when it is not uniform. 6 . e Flat bed attachment with accessory storage (page 8 and 31) f Reverse sewing lever (page 28) Press and hold down the reverse sewing lever to sew in the opposite direction. b Pattern selection dial (page 26) Turn the pattern selection dial to select the number of the stitch that you want to use. c Thread take-up lever (page 16) d Upper tension control dial (page 28) This controls the tension of the upper thread.

1 g Built-in handle h Spool pin (page 12 and 16) The spool pin holds the spool of thread. XD0852-021 (Korea). o Bobbin winding pre-tension disc/thread guide (page 12 and 16) The thread guide/bobbin winding pre-tension disc is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and threading the machine. XE0629-001 (Australia. k Main power/sewing light switch (page 10) Use this switch to turn on and off the main power and sewing light.K. m Thread cutter (page 28) Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. i Bobbin winder (page 12) The bobbin winder winds thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread. l Foot controller jack/jack Insert the foot controller plug into the foot controller jack. XC7438-321 (220/240V Area). n Presser foot lever (page 16) Use the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot. Part code. XC7438-321 (Russia) 7 . New Zealand). which also supplies power to this machine.). XC7456-321 (U. XC7359-021 (110/120V Area). j Handwheel Use the handwheel to manually raise and lower the needle. p Foot controller (page 11) Use the foot controller to control the sewing speed and to start and stop sewing.

d Feed dogs The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction. Note ● Put the accessories in the bag. h Bobbin case i Needle j Needle bar thread guide k Needle clamp screw Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place. If the accessories are not in a bag. and then store the bag inside the compartment. b Presser foot screw Use the presser foot screw to hold the presser foot holder assembly in place. and then pull the flat bed Lift the bottom of the flat bed attachment attachment out to remove it. 8 .KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Needle and presser foot section Flat bed attachment The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment. a Flat bed attachment b Storage compartment a Presser foot holder assembly The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder assembly. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching. and be lost or damaged. a toward you. c Presser foot (Zigzag) The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. they may fall out. f Shuttle hook g Shuttle cover Open the shuttle cover to set the bobbin. e Needle plate The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams.

(Part code: 132730-122) ● A replacement for the factory-installed presser foot is available through your authorized dealer. We have designed these accessories to help you be able to carry out most sewing tasks. No. / Canada Others XA5539-151 SA156 129583-021 X55467-021 130920-021 9 .S. / Canada Others X59369-321 X59370-021 XE2137-001 XA3442-121 No. 5. ● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. 8. 1 Note (For U. 2.A. only) ● Foot controller: Model KD-1902.S. 4. 5 6 7 8 Part Name Bobbin (3) Needle set Screwdriver Extra spool pin Part Code U. 6.S. 1 2 3 4 Part Name Buttonhole foot “A” Zipper foot “I” Button sewing foot “M” Darning plate Part Code U.A. N This foot controller can be used on the following machine models: LS-2220/2720/1520/2125/2125i. 3. (Part number: 138135-122) 1.ACCESSORIES The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. 75/11 1 needle 90/14 1 needle 100/16 1 needle 7.A.

into the jack on the machine. Do not subject the cord to heat. Electric shock may result. ● Do not allow the power cord to be cut. Using other power sources may result in fire. or damage to the machine. Otherwise a fire may result. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. damaged. ● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. forcefully bent. a Foot controller plug 10 . ● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances: • When you are away from the machine • After using the machine • When the power fails during use • When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection • During electrical storms CAUTION ● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. The sewing lamp comes on when the machine is turned on.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. If the cord or plug is damaged. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Power supply a between the foot controller and the power b Set the main power switch to “I”. Insert the foot controller plug. ● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use. located supply plug on the cord. modified. Then. always turn off the main power first. WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. twisted. insert the power supply plug into a wall outlet. or bundled. electric shock. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord. Fire or electric shock may result. pulled. ● When unplugging the machine. or lead to fire or electric shock.

Foot controller CAUTION ● When connecting the foot controller. the machine will run at a low speed. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet. ● A new sewing machine or one that has not been in use for a long period of time should be oiled as described on page 45.S. follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine. Steadying the machine If the sewing machine has been placed on an uneven surface. set the main power ”. CAUTION ● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller. (For U. turn the rubber cushion in the right-front corner of the base plate to adjust its height until the sewing machine is stable. Note ● If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated. The sewing lamp goes off when the machine is turned off. this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. To reduce the risk of electric shock. the machine will stop.A. 11 . When you press harder. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock. the machine’s speed will increase. When you press the foot controller down lightly. turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. When you take your foot off the foot controller. After oiling. 1 Slower Faster You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use. Do not modify the plug in any way. reverse the plug. be sure to wipe off any excess oil. contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started. only) ● This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other).c switch to “ To turn off the machine. When restarting the sewing machine. If it still does not fit.

a Pre-tension disk b Bobbin winder shaft c Bobbin CAUTION ● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156. by hand. ● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine.5 mm (7/16 inches) This model a then put a spool of thread on this pin. until the spring on the shaft slides into the groove of the bobbin. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156. 1 Pulling it in as far as possible. the machine will not work properly. If you use bobbins from other models. 12 . and Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft Pass the thread around the pre-tension disk. Pass the end of the thread through the hole on a Spring on the shaft b Groove of the bobbin e Turn on the sewing machine. Actual size 11. SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing machine.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— THREADING THE MACHINE Winding the bobbin This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine. c the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin. b Other models d and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. SFB: XA5539-151). Turn the bobbin clockwise. CAUTION ● If the spool of thread is not in the right place. the thread may tangle on the spool pin. Pull up the spool pin as far as possible.

● The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right. 1 CAUTION g Trim the excess thread above the bobbin. Memo ● When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin. ● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen.f press the foot controller to wind the thread While holding the end of the thread. this is not a malfunction. Then stop the machine. 13 . the machine will make a clicking sound. breaking the needle and resulting in injury. gently j to the left and remove the bobbin. If you do not cut the thread completely. Cut the thread. CAUTION ● Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. i spinning slowly. slide the bobbin winder shaft around the bobbin a few times. when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break. take your foot off the foot When the bobbin seems full and begins controller. h 1 a Wound evenly b Wound poorly 2 Press the foot controller to start. and the bobbin is wound.

breaking the needle and resulting in injury. Actual size 11. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156. the machine will not operate correctly.5 mm (7/16 inches) This model Other models a Bobbin case latch d from a full bobbin. CAUTION ● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen. a the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) Raise the needle to its highest position by turning and raise the presser foot lever. CAUTION ● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. a Flat bed attachment b Shuttle cover 1 a Wound evenly b Wound poorly 2 c toward you and pulling it out from the shuttle Remove the bobbin case by pulling its latch race. • Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine. ● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used. 14 . If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction. Open the shuttle cover behind the flat bed Lower threading Install the bobbin wound with thread. and then insert the bobbin Unwind about 10 cm (4 inches) of thread into the bobbin case. you could be injured. SFB: XA5539-151). it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle. CAUTION ● Make sure you turn the power off while threading the machine. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— b attachment at the front of the machine.

and then Hold the bobbin case by the latch. If it is incorrectly installed.e and to the left. fully insert release the latch. • Make sure the bobbin case finger fits into the notch at the top of the shuttle race. 15 . CAUTION ● Make sure that the bobbin case is properly placed back into the machine. a Bobbin case finger b Notch g Close the shuttle cover. until it enters Pull the trailing thread through the slot. as shown below. it will fall out from the shuttle when the machine starts to sew. 1 a Tension spring f the bobbin case into the shuttle race. down the delivery eye under the tension spring.

the sewing machine can not be threaded. the thread could tangle and break the needle. the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Upper threading Set the upper thread and thread the needle. a b c d Spool pin Thread guide (rear) Thread guide (front) Thread take-up lever CAUTION ● Make sure you thread the machine properly. Pull up the spool pin as far as possible. a lever. a Upper tension control dial b Thread check spring 16 . or is set incorrectly. d guides: the rear one first. Raise the presser foot using the presser foot c then put a spool of thread on this pin. Raise the needle by turning the handwheel b toward you (counterclockwise) to raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position. • If the needle is not correctly raised. then the front one. a Presser foot lever e tension control dial from the right to the left Feed the upper thread through both thread Pull the thread down and around the upper so the thread picks up the thread check spring. Be sure to turn the handwheel before threading the sewing machine. Otherwise. and CAUTION ● If the spool of thread is in the wrong place.

then feeding the thread with your right hand. Guide the thread through the thread take-up a Needle bar thread guide i out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread. While holding the thread as shown below. 17 . h guide above the needle. Thread the needle from front to back and pull a Thread take-up lever a 5 cm (2 inches) Note ● If the thread take-up lever is lowered. Make sure you raise the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread. the upper thread cannot be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. ● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems. Put the thread behind the needle bar thread The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand. 1 g lever from right to left.f pull it between the tension discs.

Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower a Upper thread b Lower thread 18 . a Upper thread b Lower thread c thread. d threads and pull them toward the back of the Pull out about 15 cm (6 inches) of both machine under the presser foot. a Upper thread b raise the needle to its highest position by While holding the end of the upper thread. turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Drawing up the lower thread a Lightly hold the end of the upper thread.

Percale. Silk. Chiffon 65/9 Needle sizes Thread sizes Cotton: 80 Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Fine Mercerized Cotton Cotton: 60-80 Silk: “A” Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Mercerized 50 Cotton: 50-60 Silk: “A” Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Mercerized 50-60 Cotton: 40-50 Mercerized Heavy Duty Polyester Long Fiber Cotton Wrapped Polyester Polyester Long Fiber Lightweight Voile. 1 CAUTION ● Only use home sewing machine needles. Poplin. Taffeta. Corduroy. and the larger the needle number. your machine. Velvet. Batiste Cotton. Double knit. Pique. 75/11 Synthetics. Gingham. the thicker the thread. 90/14 (Ball point) Jersey. ● Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur. Canvas. 90/14 (Supplied with Lightweight wool. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.REPLACING THE NEEDLE This section provides information on sewing machine needles. Duck 100/16 Medium weight Heavyweight Knits Single knit. Satin. the thicker the needle. possibly resulting in injury. Fine lace. Organza. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine. regardless of the fabric being sewn. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous. Tweed. Bent needles can easily break. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew. Linen. ● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads. Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. 19 . Muslin Denim. Thin linen. Gabardine. Silk. Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Suitings.) Fine corduroy. ● Never use bent needles. Tricot Memo ● The smaller the thread number. ● A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased. Sewing fabrics Very thin Fine tricot. Use the same size thread for the upper (spool) and lower (bobbin) threads.

Checking the needle Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. In addition. thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle” . a Presser foot lever 1 a Flat surface 20 . a Turn off the sewing machine. the needle may bend or break. Do not use a bent needle. CAUTION ● Before replacing the needle. the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches. b turning the handwheel toward you 1 2 Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). If the combination of the fabric.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION ● The appropriate fabric. otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. 1 a Flat surface ■ Incorrect needle If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even. a Flat side b Needle type marking ■ Correct needle c Lower the presser foot lever. the needle is bent. Before using the needle. thread and needle is not correct. place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even. Replacing the needle Replace the needle as described below. be sure to turn off the sewing machine. particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11).

Therefore. the needle clamp (which holds the needle) may fall off. otherwise the needle may break or damage may result. clamp screw by turning it clockwise. a the needle clamp onto the needle bar so that As seen from the front of the machine. Note ● The needle can be removed by simply loosening the needle clamp screw about one turn. slide the needle clamp screw is on the right side and the needle bar thread guide is at the bottom. ■ Installing the needle clamp If the needle clamp is removed. e rear of the machine. and then screw counterclockwise to remove the needle. a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw • Do not apply strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw. (If the needle clamp screw is loosened too much. follow the procedure below to attach it to the needle bar.) 1 Install the twin needle in the same way. and then Align the bottom edge of the needle holder tighten the needle clamp screw. otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged. a Needle clamp screw b Needle bar thread guide c Needle bar b with the end of the needle bar. a Needle stopper a b c d Needle bar Needle holder Needle clamp screw Align 21 . CAUTION ● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver. f use the screwdriver to tighten the needle While holding the needle with your left hand. insert the needle until it With the flat side of the needle toward the touches the needle stopper. do not loosen the needle clamp screw too much.d use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp Hold the needle with your left hand.

Other needles could break. ● Do not sew with bent needles. the needle may bend or break. ● When changing the sewing direction. e the machine to the thread take-up lever. otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. CAUTION ● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: X57521-021).KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing with a twin needle (Option) We have designed your machine so you can sew with the optional twin needle and two top threads. The needle could break and injure you. be sure to select an appropriate stitch (straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2). a Left needle thread passes through the needle bar thread guide. the needle may bend or break. 22 . Use the thread from the second spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the thread take-up lever is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). Put the second spool of thread onto the extra spool pin. and damage the machine. You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches. See page 16 for more details. ■ Twin needle threading a Attach the twin needle in the same way as a Attach the twin needle. f Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar Thread the right needle from front to back. be sure to raise the needle before turning the fabric. b Right needle thread passes in front of the needle bar thread guide. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered. single needle (page 20). ● Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. the machine. ● When using the twin needle. c Needle bar thread guide a First spool b Second spool c the machine to the needle bar thread guide. See page 16 for more details. Use the thread from the first spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the needle bar thread guide is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). The stitches available for twin-needle sewing are straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2. b Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of Attach the extra spool pin. d Thread the left needle from front to back. thread guide. If the needle hits the presser foot.

the machine will start and you may be injured. otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). a Presser foot lever a Presser foot lever The presser foot is attached. 1 Replacing the presser foot Replace the presser foot as described below. 23 . Press the black button at the back of the If the sewing machine has been turned on. d presser foot holder to release the presser foot. ● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. b turning the handwheel toward you e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the Place a different presser foot below the holder shank in the holder. a Black button b Presser foot holder CAUTION ● Before replacing the presser foot.REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT CAUTION ● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. Using other any presser feet may cause an accident or injury. and may cause injury. a turn it off. Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A. a Presser foot holder b Shank c Pin f presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot holder. If you use the wrong presser foot. If you leave the power on and step on the controller. the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break. c Raise the presser foot lever. ● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. etc.) is positioned to be read. I. be sure to turn off the sewing machine.

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the ■ Attaching the presser foot holder a left side of the presser bar. ■ Removing the presser foot holder a Remove the presser foot. a Presser foot holder b Presser bar b your right hand. the thread tension will be incorrect. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder. a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw 24 . and then tighten the screw Hold the presser foot holder in place with using the screwdriver in your left hand.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— g presser foot is securely attached. • For details. such as the quilting foot. b holder screw. Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw Note ● If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed. refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 23). Align the presser foot holder with the lower- Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder.

For details on starting to sew. Position the fabric. otherwise the needle may break or bend. In addition. For details on replacing the presser foot. keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26).2 SEWING BASICS SEWING Basic sewing operations are described below. pay special attention to the needle location. 1 Turn on the machine. Turn on the sewing machine. 2 CAUTION ● While the machine is in operation. Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. read the following precautions. Bent needles can easily break. otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break. 2 Select the stitch. Before operating the sewing machine. ● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing. General sewing procedure Follow the basic procedures below to sew. For details on selecting a stitch. 4 Start sewing. and then start sewing. refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 23). refer to “Power supply” (page 10). For details on turning on the machine. possibly resulting in injuries. cut the threads. Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. 25 . ● Never use bent needles. ● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins. When sewing is finished. otherwise injuries may occur. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). 3 Attach the presser foot.

select the desired stitch.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting stitching Turning the stitch selection dial in either direction. 43 7 Straight stitch (Left needle position) Stretch blind Stitch 33 8 33 9 Shell tuck stitch 43 10 Elastic stitch 44 26 . 40. 41 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Zigzag (satin) stitch 6 Straight stitch (Center needle position) Select the desired length. 35. aPattern selection dial Number on dial Stitch name 4-step automatic buttonhole b Pattern ac d Page 1 36 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 32. 33.

The machine stops sewing. c Raise the presser foot lever. pass pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine. 27 . h Take your foot off the foot controller. 2 b turning the handwheel toward you Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). Raise the presser foot lever. toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching. turn the handwheel While holding the end of the thread and the Turn on the sewing machine. a Presser foot lever d the thread under the presser foot. a Presser foot lever g Slowly press down on the foot controller. f Lower the presser foot lever. i turning the handwheel toward you a 5 cm (2 inches) j Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). and then Place the fabric under the presser foot.Starting to sew a e fabric with your left hand. The machine starts sewing.

the upper thread may be too tight. ● We recommend you do a test sample on a scrap of fabric before you start to sew. Memo ● Before beginning to change tension adjustments make sure the upper thread and bobbin are inserted correctly. cutter on the back of the presser foot bar to cut them. 28 . b lever. In this case. 1 2 3 a b c d Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Press and hold down the reverse sewing lever 4 ■ Upper tension is too tight Loops appear on the surface of the fabric. Note ● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly inserted. release the reverse sewing 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 4 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread. To sew forward. refer to “Lower threading” (page 14) and reinsert the bobbin. Thread tension The thread tension will affect the quality of your stitches.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— k and then pass the threads through the thread Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine. a while sewing. ■ Correct tension Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric. a Thread cutter Sewing in reverse Reverse sewing is used to lock the threads at the end of the seam or wherever reinforcement is needed.

be sure to return the screw to its original position before the next time that the machine is used. 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 1 5 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on wrong side of fabric 4 2 2 3 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. Note ● The bobbin thread tension has been adjusted at the factory for general use. increase the tension in the bobbin by turning the screw clockwise with a small screwdriver. In addition. If the problem persists. 4 Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a higher number.■ Upper tension is too loose Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric. Be sure not to turn the screw more than one full turn. For most sewing applications. 29 . Note ● If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded. ■ Bobbin tension is too loose Loops may appear on the surface of the fabric when sewing thin fabric with thin thread. no adjustment is needed. refer to “Upper threading” (page 16) and rethread. In this case. the upper thread may be too loose.

the needle may bend or break. Raise the presser foot lever. Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot. and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. be sure to raise the needle before changing the sewing direction. stop the Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle was raised. and then turn the b fabric. 30 . use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project. Sewing thick fabrics ■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot. Lower the presser foot lever and continue CAUTION ● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inches) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force. For the trial sewing. depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn. CAUTION ● When using the twin needle. When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch. Sewing curves Stop sewing. Changing the sewing direction a sewing machine. When the stitching reaches a corner.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— USEFUL SEWING TIPS Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. c sewing. Trial sewing A trial piece of fabric should be sewn since. the needle may bend or break. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn. raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position. Refer to these tips when sewing your project. perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered. and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. lower the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch. the desired results may not be achieved.

the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly.Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics. a Basting Using a free-arm style Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas. When you have finished sewing. 2 a Stabilizer material or paper Sewing stretch fabrics First. If this occurs. and then sew without stretching the fabric. To change your machine to the free-arm style. tear off any excess paper. and then pull the flat bed attachment out to remove it. baste the pieces of fabric together. place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. lift the bottom of the flat bed attachment toward you. a Flat bed attachment 31 .

Stitch name Application c Start sawing. • For details.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— 3 UTILITY STITCHES USEFUL STITCHES Zigzag stitches You can use the zigzag stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. Lower the needle into the fabric at the b beginning of the stitching. CAUTION ● Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. Zigzag (satin) stitch a Select a stitch. They are also useful for sewing stretch materials. If the needle hits the presser foot. d When sewing is finished. • For details. Memo ● When sewing with a zigzag stitch. the needle may bend or break. Overcasting and attaching appliqués. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). 32 . use straight stitches at the beginning and end of the zigzag stitch for reinforcement. cut the thread. Select the desired width. • For details. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). Number on dial 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Overcasting and attaching appliqués with the decorative satin stitches.

c beginning of the stitching. • For details. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). sewing gathers or pintucks. etc. Straight stitch (Left needle position) Basic stitching. cut the thread. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Blind hem stitching You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project. d Lower the needle into the fabric at the Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the Start sewing. e When sewing is finished. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26).Basic stitching Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. etc. 3 Select a stitch. a b Baste or pin together the fabric pieces. • For details. 7 a Reverse the skirt or pants. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). and press. Number on dial 8 Stitch name Stretch blind Stitch Application Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics. <Seen from the side> a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric 33 . Two stitches are available for basic stitching. without the stitch showing. like the hem of a pair of trousers. a Right side of fabric b Bottom side b hem. • For details. and position) sewing gathers or darning. basic (Center needle stitching. Attaching Straight stitch zippers.

e fabric with the wrong side facing up. g free-arm sewing possible. and Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm then baste it. h arm. <Seen from the side> a b c d Wrong side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Arm 34 . Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the and then start sewing. Unfold the edge of fabric. Remove the flat bed attachment and make • For details on free-arm sewing. refer to“Using a free-arm style” (page 31). and position the <Seen from the side> <Seen from the side> a b c d e d Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting stitching 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Wrong side of fabric b Basting c Edge of fabric f Select the stretch blind stitch (8).UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— c (3/16 inches) from the edge of the fabric. Fold back the fabric inside along the basting. make sure that the fabric feeds correctly.

3 Sew along the fold of the hem. For invisible stitching. e filled with parallel stitching. Darning Reinforce points that will be subject to strain. a shown below. alternately drawing the Start sewing while gently moving the fabric fabric away and pulling it toward you. etc. and position) sewing gathers or darning. b Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). and then remove both the aNeedle bNeedle drop point cFold of hem dWrong side of fabric j Place the darning plate on the needle plate as presser foot and presser foot holder assembly. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Attaching Straight stitch zippers. and then lower Position the fabric so that the needle slightly the presser foot lever. make sure that both threads are the same color as the fabric. c presser foot together with a fabric underlay a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric d with your hands. Stop sewing when the portion to be darned is 35 . Place the fabric to be darned under the for reinforcement.i catches the fold of the hem. Remove the basting stitching and turn the k fabric right side up. basic (Center needle stitching.

a Reinforcement stitching c buttonhole (1). check the stitch length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric. d that the middle of the front chalk line is Position the fabric under the presser foot so directly in the center of the presser foot and aligned with the two red lines on the insert. a b c d Presser foot scale Pin Marks on buttonhole foot 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Mark on fabric b Red marks on the sliding insert e Start sewing. are indicated below. ● When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics. as shown below. Number on dial 1 4-step automatic buttonhole Buttonholes on medium weight fabrics. place stabilizer material under the fablic. 36 . a the buttonhole on the fabric. Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back. Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. Step Step a (Front end of button hole) Step b (Left side) Sewn portion Use chalk to mark the position and length of 1 Step c (Back end of button hole) a Marks on fabric Step d (Right side) b outside frame back until the sliding insert Attach buttonhole foot “A” and push the reaches the front of the outside frame.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— BUTTONHOLE SEWING Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. which is used for sewing buttonholes. Stitch name Application Memo ● Before sewing buttonholes. Select stitch “a” of the 4-step automatic Making the buttonhole The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”. Sew 5 to 6 stitches.

Sew 5 to 6 stitches. and then raise the needle Stop sewing when the needle is at the right by turning the handwheel toward you. and cut the thread. o fabric. k CAUTION ● When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper. 1 a Seam ripper b Pin Select stitch “c” (same as “a”) of the 4-step j automatic buttonhole (1). turn the fabric 90 degrees counterclockwise. and then sew to the edge of the front bar tack. For reinforcement. Select stitch “d” of the 4-step automatic n buttonhole until the needle reaches the Start sewing. Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended. l side of the stitching. i side of the stitching. p stitching to prevent the stitching from being Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole cut.f of the stitching. Raise the presser foot lever. g buttonhole (1). and then sew the length of the h chalk line. 3 Start sewing. select the straight stitch (6 through 10) with the desired length. and then use a seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole. m buttonhole (1). and then raise the needle by Stop sewing when the needle is at the left side turning the handwheel toward you. and then raise the needle Stop sewing when the needle is at the right by turning the handwheel toward you. remove the 37 . Sew the right side of the stitching sewn in step e. Select stitch “b” of the 4-step automatic 2 Start sewing. otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips. do not place your hands in the cutting path.

Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached. Button sewing Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. 3 or 4) according to the following table.8 mm (3/16 inches) b ■ If the right side is too loose compared to the left side Use the enclosed large screwdriver to turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw in the direction. 38 . a Buttonhole fine-adjusting screw Distance between holes 1. Place a button between the presser foot and • When attaching four-hole buttons. c shown below. Number of dial 2 3 4 Attach the button sewing foot “M”. and then select the Measure the distance between the holes in the appropriate zigzag stitch (2.6 mm (1/16 inches) 3. d the fabric. Place the darning plate on the needle plate as ■ If the right side is too tight compared to the left side Use the enclosed large screwdriver to turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw in the + direction. first sew the two holes closest to you. a button to be attached. Then. the stitching can adjusted with the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw. slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine.2 mm (1/8 inches) 4. and then sew them in the same way.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting buitching stitching If the stitching on the two sides of the buttonhole is not uniform.

• After sewing for about 10 seconds at a low speed. g and then cut the upper and lower threads. return to step a. Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching. be sure that the needle does not touch the button. h stitching to the wrong side of the fabric. Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine.e (counterclockwise) to check that the needle Turn the handwheel toward you correctly goes into the two holes of the button. press and hold down the reverse sewing lever to sew a few reinforcement stitches. leaving a length of 15 cm (6 inches). otherwise the needle may bend or break. 39 . f 3 Start sewing. If the needle hits the button. CAUTION ● When sewing. and Pull the upper thread at the end of the then tie it with the bobbin thread.

etc. a Zipper foot “I” b Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper c Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper a Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). When sewing the right side of the zipper. 40 . fit the zipper foot on the other side of the zipper and continue sewing using the other side notch. the needle may break and you may be injured. Fold the edge of the fabric 2 cm (3/4 inches) c and place the zipper under the folded section. attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot. and can easily position it to the right or left side of the needle.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— ZIPPER INSERTION You can use the zipper foot “I” to sew different types of zippers. Attaching Straight stitch zippers. the needle will hit the presser foot and break the needle. basic (Center needle stitching. The needle should be Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the positioned on the zipper side of the foot for best results. Lower the needle into the notch located either on the left or right side of the zipper foot. and position) sewing gathers or darning. When sewing the left side of the zipper. e the foot by pressing the button located at the To sew the opposite side of the zipper. b left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the shank. release back of the presser foot. CAUTION ● Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the needle does not hit the presser foot before you start sewing. If the needle hits the zipper. You may also be injured. If you choose a different stitch. CAUTION ● Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper during sewing. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application d top on both sides.

41 .APPLIQUÉ. Select the desired width. Number on dial 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Overcasting and attaching appliqués with the decorative satin stitches. Baste the cut design to the fabric. monogramming and embroidering. e Remove the basting. Cut away any fabric that is left outside the Select a stitch. if necessary. as the needle can break. d stitching. a b CAUTION ● Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin during sewing. 3 Memo ● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching. Overcasting and attaching appliqués. and then remove both the Place the darning plate on the needle plate as presser foot and presser foot holder assembly. You may also be injured. Zigzag (satin) stitch Appliqués You can create an appliqué by cutting a different piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a decoration. MONOGRAMMING AND EMBROIDERING Zigzag stitches can be used for sewing appliqués. Monogramming and embroidering a shown below. Stitch name Application c Carefully sew around the edge of the design.

the stitches are longer. sew to completely fill in the design with stitches by alternately sewing from the outline of the design to the inside and from the inside to the outline. d the surface of the fabric facing up inside the Put the fabric in the embroidery hoop with well. g forefingers of both hands while pressing the Grip the hoop with the thumbs and Memo ● Be sure to keep the stitches close together. fabric with the middle and third fingers. e the presser bar. i and sew a few stitches for reinforcing.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— b Select a stitch. When the hoop is moved slowly. 42 . Then. ■ Monogramming Sew the lettering at a constant speed by moving the hoop slowly. especially needles. h Start sewing. c design (for embroidering) on the surface of Draw the lettering (for monogramming) or the fabric. Place the project under the needle and lower f at the starting position by turning the Draw up the lower thread through the project handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). and then sew a few stitches to reinforce the stitching. CAUTION ● Be sure to keep your fingers away from moving parts. Select the desired length for straight stitch (6) Memo ● When the hoop is moved quickly. the stitches are shorter. ■ Embroidering Sew along the outline of the design by moving the hoop slowly. and support the outside of the hoop with your little fingers.

They are used to decorate trims. a Attaching zippers. Loosen the tension of the upper thread (to 3 b about 2). • For details. the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.DECORATIVE STITCHING Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine. etc. Sew a single or multiple parallel rows of • Do not sew reverse stitches or cut the thread. Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers. c slightly off the edge of the fabric. refer to “Thread tension” (page 28). d Smooth the gathers by ironing them. and then iron the tucks 43 . (Center needle and sewing position) gathers or darning. c stitches. and increase • For details. b the thread tension. Unfold the fabric. Stitch name Application a Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). Straight stitch basic stitching. Fold the fabric along the bias. Sew while making sure that the needle drops d down to one side. Gathering Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Shell tuck stitching Number on dial 9 Shell tuck stitch Shell tuck stitching The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. Select the shell tuck stitch (9). refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26).

The elastic stitch can be used in 3 ways: mending. and then sew over the elastic tape while holding the tape both in front and behind the presser foot. start sewing the edges of the two fabrics together. Then. and then sew over the tear. Each is explained below. sewing Elastic stitching elastic tape or joining fabric. Select the elastic stitch (10). ■ Joining fabric Put the edges of the two pieces of fabric together.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Elastic stitching Number on dial 10 Stitch name Application Mending. ■ Sewing elastic tape Place the elastic tape on the fabric. and then place them under the presser foot with the fabric edges under the center of the presser foot. ■ Mending Place the reinforcement fabric under the tear to be mended. sewing elastic or joining fabric. Memo ● Make reinforcing reverse stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching. 44 .

c Remove the face plate from the machine. Note ● Hold the face plate securely while removing or attaching it. After oiling. 4 Loosen the face plate screw. b indicated below. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. oil every day. ● Do not apply too much oil as it may soil the thread and fabric. c at a fast speed without thread. ● Sewing machine oil is available at your local sewing machine dealer or service center. a b Turn off the machine and unplug it. Oiling a Changing the bulb CAUTION Turn off the machine and unplug it. 45 . ● Unplug the power supply cord before changing the bulb. If you use it more often.4 APPENDIX MAINTENANCE Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. run the machine for a short time Memo ● Make sure to oil the machine once a week if you use it more than an hour a day. Put 2 to 3 drops of oil at each of the points Be sure to wipe any excess oil off the machine.

a bulb b Loosen c Tighten e again. Remove the flat bed attachment and open the Attach the face plate and fasten the screw d toward you and pulling it out from the shuttle Remove the bobbin case by pulling its latch race. lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. Cleaning the shuttle race CAUTION ● Be sure to unplug the machine before cleaning it. Cleaning the machine surface If the surface of the machine is dirty. and then wipe the surface of the machine. Raise the needle and the presser foot. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. Slide the latch levers out from the retaining CAUTION ● Unplug the power supply cord before cleaning the machine.APPENDIX d ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Replace the sewing light bulb. wipe it again with a dry cloth. a Retaining ring b Latch lever 46 . b then remove the presser foot and the needle. and c shuttle cover at the front of the free arm. squeeze it out firmly. a Turn off the machine and unplug it. a Bobbin case latch e ring to remove it. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth.

hook. Otherwise. a Turn off the machine and unplug it. Use a brush to clean the lint from the upper Reassemble the hook and the retaining ring. a Retaining ring b Driver c Race body h wipe the shuttle race in order to remove any Use a cloth dampened with machine oil to lint. Attach the bobbin case. Raise the needle and the presser foot. f screwdriver. e part of the feed dogs and shuttle race body. the presser foot and Cleaning the feed dogs CAUTION ● Make sure you unplug the machine before you clean it. c shuttle cover at the front of the free arm. you may get an electric shock or be injured. Clean the lint from the shuttle hook in the i same manner as described in step h. a Retaining ring b Hook c Hook center post g and thread from the retaining ring. and Remove the flat bed attachment and open the 4 Remove the needle plate by using a coin or d screwdriver to remove the screws. Remove the hook by grasping its center post k the needle before using the machine. Attach the needle plate by using a coin or a Retaining ring b Hook c Latch lever 47 . Use a brush to remove any accumulated lint driver and race body.f and pulling it out. j and push the latch levers back into position. b then remove the presser foot and the needle.

48 . Therefore. approximately 30-45 degrees to increase bobbin tension. damage may occur during shipping. the thread tension must be adjusted according to the procedure described below. If it is not packed properly. Note ● If the loops still appear on the surface of the fabric after you adjust the upper tension. being careful not to over-tighten the screw. When packing up the machine again. Note ● Remember to return the screw to its original setting before starting your next project. ● Save this packing material in case it is needed to transport this sewing machine. After you adjust the bobbin thread. the bobbin thread may be too loose. In this case. IMPORTANT ● This packing material is designed to prevent damage in transit. the thread tension may not be adjusted adequately with the upper tension control dial. For most sewing applications. ■ Bobbin tension is too loose Loops appear on the surface of the fabric. When sewing with thin thread on thin fabrics. 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 4 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. turn the screw clockwise. a Screw Bobbin case tension adjustment The bobbin thread tension has already been adjusted at the factory for general use. pack it properly as described below. no adjustment is needed. adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Repacking the machine Keep the carton and packing materials for future use.

approximately 30-45 degrees to decrease bobbin tension. the bobbin thread may be too tight. adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread. 4 a Screw 49 . In this case. Note ● If the loops still appear on the wrong side of the fabric after you adjust the upper tension. After you adjust the bobbin thread.■ Bobbin tension is too tight Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric. 1 5 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on wrong side of fabric 2 3 4 Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a higher number. turn the screw counterclockwise being careful not to over-loosen the screw.

– page 19 page 28 page 46 The upper thread tension is too tight. or the thread has come out of the guide above the needle. You have not used the right combination of fabric. The presser foot you are using is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you want to sew. the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Remove any knots or tangles. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. You are pulling the fabric too much. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew. The area around the hole in the nee. If you need additional help. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. Symptom Possible cause The machine is not plugged in. for example. (for example. Replace the bobbin case. The needle is not appropriate for the thread you are using. Turn on the main power switch. contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center. you have not fitted the spool properly. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. page 16 The upper thread breaks. Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched.com]. thread and needle. Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw. clean the shuttle race. The needle clamp screw is loose. 36. You have not inserted the needle properly. Visit us at [http://solutions. authorized service center. Reference page 10 page 10 page 13 page 11 page 20 page 21 page 20 page 19 page 35. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Replace the needle. The sewing machine does not work. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Loosen the upper thread tension. 50 . Lightly guide the fabric. Choose a needle that is appropriate for the type of stitch. The upper thread tension is too tight. – – page 12 Correct the upper threading. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left. You have not used the foot controller properly. 40. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. The thread is tangled. The needle is bent or blunt. 38. The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to the right. The bobbin case is scratched. in the shuttle race. There are knots or tangles in the thread.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— TROUBLESHOOTING If the machine stops operating correctly. The needle breaks. Insert the needle properly. check the following possible problems before requesting service. 41 page 28 – – The main power switch is turned off. Loosen the upper thread tension.brother. How to put it right Plug the machine in. If the problem persists. You can solve most problems by yourself. Use the foot controller properly.) Replace the presser foot. Remove the tangle thread.Replace the needle plate. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine.

Replace the bobbin case. Reference page 20 page 20 – The area around the hole in the nee. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. You have not inserted the needle properly. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. foot holder properly. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. The upper thread breaks. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Bobbin is set incorrectly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. or has a burr on it. The bobbin is scratched or does not turn smoothly. Insert the needle properly.You have not attached the pressersion is incorrect.Replace the needle plate. – – page 12 page 12 – page 46 page 12 page 14 page 16 4 Correct the upper threading. The upper thread is too tight. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. page 16 page 12 page 19 page 24 page 28 page 12 page 14 page 14 51 . Replace the presser foot.Symptom Possible cause The needle is bent or blunt. The thread is tangled on the wrong side of the fabric. The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed. Wind the bobbin thread properly. The upper thread was not threaded correctly. The bobbin case is scratched. thread and needle. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. The lower thread is tangled or breaks. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. How to put it right Replace the needle. Correctly install the bobbin thread. Remove the tangled thread and clean the shuttle race. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. authorised service center. Wind the bobbin thread properly. Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched. The thread ten. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Replace the bobbin. Attach the presser-foot holder properly. Correct the upper threading. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. The thread is tangled. Bobbin is set incorrectly. The thread tension is incorrect.

Dust has accumulated under the needle plate or in the shuttle race. 38. in the shuttle race. page 12 Insufficient oiling. 47 page 46 page 16 – The fabric is wrinkled. in the shuttle race. You have not used the right combination of fabric. 40. The bobbin case is scratched. There is a highpitched noise while sewing. for example. Remove the tangle thread. Make sure to oil the machine once a week if you use it more than an hour a day. The thread is tangled. The thread tension is incorrect. You have not used the right combination of fabric. clean the shuttle race. Change the sewing light bulb. Correct the upper threading. Dust has built up in the feed dogs or in the shuttle race. 16 – page 19 page 20 page 31 page 28 page 16 page 19 page 20 page 46. page 45 The presser foot that you are using is not correct for the type of stitch. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. Replace the needle. Correct the upper threading. Fit the spool properly. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Sew with stabiliser material under the fabric. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew. Clean the shuttle race. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. clean the shuttle race. the stitch is too thick. Replace the needle. Reference page 14. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. Stitches are skipped. for example. The needle is bent or blunt. The sewing light bulb does not come on. 41 page 28 page 46 page 19 page 46 The fabric does not feed. Remove the tangle thread. The thread is tangled. If you are sewing thin fabric. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. The sewing lamp is damaged. thread and needle. thread and needle. Insert the needle properly. Remove the needle plate cover and clean the plate and the shuttle race. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. thread and needle. oil every day. You have not inserted the needle properly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. You have not fitted the spool properly.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Possible cause You have not threaded the upper thread properly or fitted the bobbin properly. You have not used bobbin that has been designed for this machine. page 45 52 . page 33. How to put it right Thread the upper thread and wind the bobbin thread properly. The needle is bent or blunt. If you use it more often. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. Replace the bobbin case. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. 36. The thread tension is incorrect. The stitch is not sewn correctly.

.... 48 upper threading ........... 26 presser foot .......................................................................................................................................30.......................................................... 14 bobbin winder ....................INDEX A accessories ...................................................................................................................................10 monogramming .............. 31 foot controller .............. 47 flat bed attachment .................................................................................................... 43 Z H handwheel .. 14 bobbin case .................................................................................................... 30 troubleshooting ..................... 47 O oiling ...............28.................................47 spool pin ..................................... 28 53 . 7 J joining ....... 8....................................................................................................................................................................................... 46 D darning .........33 bobbin ...........................................................36 T thick fabrics ............................................................... 19 needle bar thread guide ........................................................................................................ 28 trial sewing .............. 31 F U W winding the bobbin ............ 48 reverse sewing lever ...........................................6 main power switch ......................... 40 G gathering ..... 7..............................................................................................................................8.................................................... 12 P R relative chart of sewing fabrics.....................8.. 28 thread guide ......35 E embroidering ......................................................................................................32 seam ripper ........... 41 zipper foot ...........................................................................47 shuttle race cleaning ....................... 16 pre-tension disk ..........................8......................................................................................... 44 M main parts ........................................... 16 thread tension ......................................................45 overcasting stitches .....................................................30 thin fabrics ............................... 24 presser foot lever ................................................................ 41 extra spool pin ......................................................................................................................................... 29............................12 zigzag stitches .......40 zipper insertion .............................................................................. 32................................................................................................................................36 buttonhole sewing ........................................................................................................................................................................................................ 37 sewing machine needles ................................... 22 upper tension-control dial ....................................................................................... 21 needle plate ................................................ 31 B basic stitching .33 stretch fabrics .........8......................................................12...33 blind hem stitching ................................ 12 button sewing ...... 19 repacking .........8 needle clamp screw .....................................33 stretch blind stitch ......................................................................................................................43 shuttle hook removal ...................................................................................................................16 C cleaning ............... needles and threads ........................................................... 8......19 shell tuck stitching ...................................................... 41 S satin stitching ............................27 free-arm style .............................................................. 23 presser foot holder ..... 16 straight stitch ............9 appliqués .... 41 N needle ..................................................32 pattern selection dial ..............................38 buttonhole foot ......................................................... 21.............................................................31 thread cutter ................................................................................................................... 50 twin needle ......................................6. 22 feed dogs .............................

English XE4592-001 Printed in China .

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