KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

Basic Sewing and Mending Machine

Operation Manual
Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

“IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”
When using the sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: “Read all instructions before using.”

DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. 2. Always unplug before changing the light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts.

WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons: 1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near children. 2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4. Never operate the sewing machine with any of the air openings blocked. Keep the ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth. 5. Never drop or insert any object into any openings. 6. Do not use this machine outdoors. 7. Do not operate this machine where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. 8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “O” position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet. 9. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord. To unplug, grasp the plug and pull, not the cord. 10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle. 11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 12. Do not use a bent needle. 13. Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break. 14. Switch the sewing machine to the off, symbol “O” position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin, or changing the presser foot. 15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user service adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual. 16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or impaired persons without supervision. 17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this sewing machine. “SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS” “This sewing machine is intended for household use.”

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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.

IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug. NOTE The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted. WARNING DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW. The wires in this main lead are coloured in accordance with the following code: Blue Brown Neutral Live

As the colours of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows. The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘N’ or coloured black or blue. The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘L’ or coloured red or brown.

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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE
To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation 1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the handwheel, thread takeup lever, needle, or other moving parts. 2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when: • Operation is completed • Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts • A power failure occurs during use • Maintaining the machine • Leaving the machine unattended 3. Do not store anything on the foot controller. 4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords. For a longer service life 1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects. 2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used. 3. Do not drop or hit the machine. 4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation. For repair or adjustment In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer. For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

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...................25 SEWING .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................12 Winding the bobbin ... 11 Steadying the machine ..................... 38 Button sewing ............ 33 Darning ............. 23 Removing the presser foot holder ............................................................. 18 REPLACING THE NEEDLE .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 20 Sewing with a twin needle (Option) ...................................................... 25 Selecting stitching .................................................................................................................6 NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS .......................................................... 8 Flat bed attachment ................................................................ 28 Thread tension ............. 36 Adjusting buitching stitching .................................................... 30 Sewing curves .................................................................23 Replacing the presser foot .... 35 BUTTONHOLE SEWING ....................................... 32 Basic stitching ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 31 Using a free-arm style ..................................................... 32 Zigzag stitches ........................................................................................................................ 33 Blind hem stitching ........................................................................................... 26 Starting to sew ...................................................................................................................................................................25 General sewing procedure ............... 30 Sewing thick fabrics ..............................................................32 USEFUL STITCHES ......................... 22 REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ....... 12 Lower threading .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 38 4 .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 10 Foot controller ............................................................................................................... 19 Checking the needle ............................................................................................... SEWING BASICS ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 14 Upper threading .............................................................................................................................................................................. UTILITY STITCHES ............................... 6 The main parts .....................................................................................................36 Making the buttonhole .........................................................................................................................................................................................................................—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— CONTENTS 1..............9 USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ... 30 Sewing thin fabrics .....................................................10 Power supply precautions ........................................................................................................................................................................................................ 28 USEFUL SEWING TIPS ..... 27 Sewing in reverse .................................................................... 20 Replacing the needle ................................................................................................................. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 31 Sewing stretch fabrics ..................................................................................... 31 3.................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 8 ACCESSORIES ...............................................................................19 Needle precautions ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 11 THREADING THE MACHINE ................................................. 16 Drawing up the lower thread ............ 19 Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types ............ 30 Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 30 Changing the sewing direction ................................................................................ 10 Power supply ........................................................................................................................ 6 Needle and presser foot section ................................................................................................................. 24 2...............................................................................................................................................................................................................

.........................................................................................43 Gathering ........................................................................................... 46 Cleaning the feed dogs ............................................................................................................................................................................. 43 Elastic stitching ..........................................................................................................................ZIPPER INSERTION ............................ 46 Cleaning the shuttle race ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ APPENDIX ............. 40 APPLIQUÉ.............45 MAINTENANCE ......................................................................................................................... 41 DECORATIVE STITCHING ...... 43 Shell tuck stitching ...................................................................50 INDEX ............................................................. MONOGRAMMING AND EMBROIDERING ....................................................................................................................... 45 Changing the bulb ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 44 4........... 53 5 .............................. 45 Cleaning the machine surface .........................................45 Oiling ................................................................................................................................................................. 41 Appliqués ................................................................................................................ 41 Monogramming and embroidering ....................................................... 48 Bobbin case tension adjustment ..... 48 TROUBLESHOOTING ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 47 Repacking the machine ..............................................................................................

c Thread take-up lever (page 16) d Upper tension control dial (page 28) This controls the tension of the upper thread. e Flat bed attachment with accessory storage (page 8 and 31) f Reverse sewing lever (page 28) Press and hold down the reverse sewing lever to sew in the opposite direction. b Pattern selection dial (page 26) Turn the pattern selection dial to select the number of the stitch that you want to use.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— 1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS The main parts a Buttonhole fine-adjusting screw (page 38) Turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw to adjust buttonhole stitching when it is not uniform. 6 .

XC7359-021 (110/120V Area). XD0852-021 (Korea). XC7438-321 (Russia) 7 . New Zealand). l Foot controller jack/jack Insert the foot controller plug into the foot controller jack. p Foot controller (page 11) Use the foot controller to control the sewing speed and to start and stop sewing. which also supplies power to this machine. XC7438-321 (220/240V Area). i Bobbin winder (page 12) The bobbin winder winds thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread.K. XE0629-001 (Australia.1 g Built-in handle h Spool pin (page 12 and 16) The spool pin holds the spool of thread.). n Presser foot lever (page 16) Use the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot. XC7456-321 (U. m Thread cutter (page 28) Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. Part code. k Main power/sewing light switch (page 10) Use this switch to turn on and off the main power and sewing light. o Bobbin winding pre-tension disc/thread guide (page 12 and 16) The thread guide/bobbin winding pre-tension disc is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and threading the machine. j Handwheel Use the handwheel to manually raise and lower the needle.

8 . c Presser foot (Zigzag) The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. b Presser foot screw Use the presser foot screw to hold the presser foot holder assembly in place. If the accessories are not in a bag. a Flat bed attachment b Storage compartment a Presser foot holder assembly The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder assembly. they may fall out. d Feed dogs The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction. Note ● Put the accessories in the bag. f Shuttle hook g Shuttle cover Open the shuttle cover to set the bobbin. and then store the bag inside the compartment. h Bobbin case i Needle j Needle bar thread guide k Needle clamp screw Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place. and then pull the flat bed Lift the bottom of the flat bed attachment attachment out to remove it. e Needle plate The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams. a toward you. and be lost or damaged.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Needle and presser foot section Flat bed attachment The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching.

4. 1 2 3 4 Part Name Buttonhole foot “A” Zipper foot “I” Button sewing foot “M” Darning plate Part Code U.A. We have designed these accessories to help you be able to carry out most sewing tasks. 5. ● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer.A. only) ● Foot controller: Model KD-1902. / Canada Others X59369-321 X59370-021 XE2137-001 XA3442-121 No. / Canada Others XA5539-151 SA156 129583-021 X55467-021 130920-021 9 . 8.S. 2. N This foot controller can be used on the following machine models: LS-2220/2720/1520/2125/2125i. 3. (Part number: 138135-122) 1.S. 5 6 7 8 Part Name Bobbin (3) Needle set Screwdriver Extra spool pin Part Code U.S. 6. No.A. 75/11 1 needle 90/14 1 needle 100/16 1 needle 7. 1 Note (For U.ACCESSORIES The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. (Part code: 132730-122) ● A replacement for the factory-installed presser foot is available through your authorized dealer.

WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Using other power sources may result in fire. Do not subject the cord to heat. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. or bundled. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord. Power supply a between the foot controller and the power b Set the main power switch to “I”. Fire or electric shock may result. or damage to the machine. electric shock. damaged. twisted. a Foot controller plug 10 . Otherwise a fire may result. insert the power supply plug into a wall outlet. ● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. pulled. The sewing lamp comes on when the machine is turned on. If the cord or plug is damaged. ● Do not allow the power cord to be cut.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. ● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances: • When you are away from the machine • After using the machine • When the power fails during use • When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection • During electrical storms CAUTION ● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. always turn off the main power first. ● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Insert the foot controller plug. Electric shock may result. into the jack on the machine. forcefully bent. take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use. Then. located supply plug on the cord. ● When unplugging the machine. modified. or lead to fire or electric shock.

11 . After oiling. If it still does not fit. The sewing lamp goes off when the machine is turned off. the machine’s speed will increase. When you press harder. the machine will run at a low speed. be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started. (For U. CAUTION ● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller.A.S. reverse the plug. set the main power ”. this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. To reduce the risk of electric shock. turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine. When restarting the sewing machine. be sure to wipe off any excess oil. only) ● This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). Do not modify the plug in any way. Note ● If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock. Steadying the machine If the sewing machine has been placed on an uneven surface. When you press the foot controller down lightly. ● A new sewing machine or one that has not been in use for a long period of time should be oiled as described on page 45. contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. turn the rubber cushion in the right-front corner of the base plate to adjust its height until the sewing machine is stable. When you take your foot off the foot controller. Foot controller CAUTION ● When connecting the foot controller.c switch to “ To turn off the machine. 1 Slower Faster You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet. the machine will stop.

SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing machine.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— THREADING THE MACHINE Winding the bobbin This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin.5 mm (7/16 inches) This model a then put a spool of thread on this pin. c the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin. Turn the bobbin clockwise. Pull up the spool pin as far as possible. Actual size 11. until the spring on the shaft slides into the groove of the bobbin. 1 Pulling it in as far as possible. by hand. SFB: XA5539-151). the machine will not work properly. Pass the end of the thread through the hole on a Spring on the shaft b Groove of the bobbin e Turn on the sewing machine. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156. a Pre-tension disk b Bobbin winder shaft c Bobbin CAUTION ● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156. b Other models d and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. If you use bobbins from other models. 12 . and Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft Pass the thread around the pre-tension disk. ● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. CAUTION ● If the spool of thread is not in the right place. the thread may tangle on the spool pin.

and the bobbin is wound. this is not a malfunction. 13 . slide the bobbin winder shaft around the bobbin a few times. h 1 a Wound evenly b Wound poorly 2 Press the foot controller to start. the machine will make a clicking sound. 1 CAUTION g Trim the excess thread above the bobbin. when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break. i spinning slowly. Then stop the machine. Memo ● When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin. ● The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right.f press the foot controller to wind the thread While holding the end of the thread. gently j to the left and remove the bobbin. CAUTION ● Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. Cut the thread. breaking the needle and resulting in injury. If you do not cut the thread completely. ● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen. take your foot off the foot When the bobbin seems full and begins controller.

14 . you could be injured. a the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) Raise the needle to its highest position by turning and raise the presser foot lever.5 mm (7/16 inches) This model Other models a Bobbin case latch d from a full bobbin. and then insert the bobbin Unwind about 10 cm (4 inches) of thread into the bobbin case. the machine will not operate correctly. it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle. SFB: XA5539-151). CAUTION ● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen. Open the shuttle cover behind the flat bed Lower threading Install the bobbin wound with thread. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— b attachment at the front of the machine. • Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine. CAUTION ● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. Actual size 11. breaking the needle and resulting in injury. If bobbins from other models are used. ● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew. a Flat bed attachment b Shuttle cover 1 a Wound evenly b Wound poorly 2 c toward you and pulling it out from the shuttle Remove the bobbin case by pulling its latch race. CAUTION ● Make sure you turn the power off while threading the machine.

as shown below. • Make sure the bobbin case finger fits into the notch at the top of the shuttle race. fully insert release the latch. 1 a Tension spring f the bobbin case into the shuttle race. until it enters Pull the trailing thread through the slot. down the delivery eye under the tension spring. 15 . CAUTION ● Make sure that the bobbin case is properly placed back into the machine. a Bobbin case finger b Notch g Close the shuttle cover.e and to the left. and then Hold the bobbin case by the latch. If it is incorrectly installed. it will fall out from the shuttle when the machine starts to sew.

Otherwise. Raise the needle by turning the handwheel b toward you (counterclockwise) to raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position. or is set incorrectly. a Upper tension control dial b Thread check spring 16 . d guides: the rear one first. the thread could tangle and break the needle. the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break. Raise the presser foot using the presser foot c then put a spool of thread on this pin. a b c d Spool pin Thread guide (rear) Thread guide (front) Thread take-up lever CAUTION ● Make sure you thread the machine properly. the sewing machine can not be threaded.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Upper threading Set the upper thread and thread the needle. then the front one. • If the needle is not correctly raised. a lever. a Presser foot lever e tension control dial from the right to the left Feed the upper thread through both thread Pull the thread down and around the upper so the thread picks up the thread check spring. Be sure to turn the handwheel before threading the sewing machine. and CAUTION ● If the spool of thread is in the wrong place. Pull up the spool pin as far as possible.

then feeding the thread with your right hand. While holding the thread as shown below. 17 . Put the thread behind the needle bar thread The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand. Thread the needle from front to back and pull a Thread take-up lever a 5 cm (2 inches) Note ● If the thread take-up lever is lowered. 1 g lever from right to left. the upper thread cannot be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. h guide above the needle. Guide the thread through the thread take-up a Needle bar thread guide i out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread. Make sure you raise the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread.f pull it between the tension discs. ● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems.

Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower a Upper thread b Lower thread 18 . d threads and pull them toward the back of the Pull out about 15 cm (6 inches) of both machine under the presser foot. a Upper thread b raise the needle to its highest position by While holding the end of the upper thread. a Upper thread b Lower thread c thread.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Drawing up the lower thread a Lightly hold the end of the upper thread. turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).

Canvas. Suitings. Sewing fabrics Very thin Fine tricot. Linen. Poplin. Pique. Percale. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew. Batiste Cotton. Bent needles can easily break. possibly resulting in injury. regardless of the fabric being sewn. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous. Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Muslin Denim. Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness.) Fine corduroy. 90/14 (Ball point) Jersey. Satin. Silk. Gingham. Fine lace. Duck 100/16 Medium weight Heavyweight Knits Single knit. 1 CAUTION ● Only use home sewing machine needles. Taffeta. the thicker the needle. 19 . ● Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below. your machine. Chiffon 65/9 Needle sizes Thread sizes Cotton: 80 Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Fine Mercerized Cotton Cotton: 60-80 Silk: “A” Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Mercerized 50 Cotton: 50-60 Silk: “A” Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Mercerized 50-60 Cotton: 40-50 Mercerized Heavy Duty Polyester Long Fiber Cotton Wrapped Polyester Polyester Long Fiber Lightweight Voile. Tricot Memo ● The smaller the thread number. and the larger the needle number. ● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads. Silk. Organza. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine. Thin linen.REPLACING THE NEEDLE This section provides information on sewing machine needles. Tweed. Velvet. Gabardine. ● Never use bent needles. 75/11 Synthetics. Use the same size thread for the upper (spool) and lower (bobbin) threads. 90/14 (Supplied with Lightweight wool. ● A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased. the thicker the thread. Corduroy. Double knit.

Before using the needle. a Turn off the sewing machine.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION ● The appropriate fabric. be sure to turn off the sewing machine. the needle may bend or break. particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11). CAUTION ● Before replacing the needle. 1 a Flat surface ■ Incorrect needle If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even. the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle” . a Flat side b Needle type marking ■ Correct needle c Lower the presser foot lever. a Presser foot lever 1 a Flat surface 20 . otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even. the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle. In addition. If the combination of the fabric. thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page. Checking the needle Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. thread and needle is not correct. Replacing the needle Replace the needle as described below. b turning the handwheel toward you 1 2 Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise).

otherwise the needle may break or damage may result. Note ● The needle can be removed by simply loosening the needle clamp screw about one turn. e rear of the machine. follow the procedure below to attach it to the needle bar. ■ Installing the needle clamp If the needle clamp is removed. a the needle clamp onto the needle bar so that As seen from the front of the machine. and then screw counterclockwise to remove the needle. a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw • Do not apply strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw. otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged. the needle clamp (which holds the needle) may fall off. and then Align the bottom edge of the needle holder tighten the needle clamp screw. a Needle stopper a b c d Needle bar Needle holder Needle clamp screw Align 21 . do not loosen the needle clamp screw too much. f use the screwdriver to tighten the needle While holding the needle with your left hand. (If the needle clamp screw is loosened too much. insert the needle until it With the flat side of the needle toward the touches the needle stopper. CAUTION ● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver. slide the needle clamp screw is on the right side and the needle bar thread guide is at the bottom.d use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp Hold the needle with your left hand. a Needle clamp screw b Needle bar thread guide c Needle bar b with the end of the needle bar.) 1 Install the twin needle in the same way. Therefore. clamp screw by turning it clockwise.

b Right needle thread passes in front of the needle bar thread guide. ● When changing the sewing direction. Other needles could break. the needle may bend or break. and damage the machine. Use the thread from the first spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the needle bar thread guide is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). be sure to select an appropriate stitch (straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2). otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. d Thread the left needle from front to back. See page 16 for more details. c Needle bar thread guide a First spool b Second spool c the machine to the needle bar thread guide. ● Do not sew with bent needles. See page 16 for more details. single needle (page 20). b Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of Attach the extra spool pin.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing with a twin needle (Option) We have designed your machine so you can sew with the optional twin needle and two top threads. thread guide. ● When using the twin needle. Put the second spool of thread onto the extra spool pin. f Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar Thread the right needle from front to back. be sure to raise the needle before turning the fabric. If the needle hits the presser foot. Use the thread from the second spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the thread take-up lever is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). a Left needle thread passes through the needle bar thread guide. ■ Twin needle threading a Attach the twin needle in the same way as a Attach the twin needle. CAUTION ● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: X57521-021). The needle could break and injure you. ● Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered. the needle may bend or break. the machine. e the machine to the thread take-up lever. The stitches available for twin-needle sewing are straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2. 22 .

1 Replacing the presser foot Replace the presser foot as described below. the machine will start and you may be injured. c Raise the presser foot lever. etc. Press the black button at the back of the If the sewing machine has been turned on. If you leave the power on and step on the controller. b turning the handwheel toward you e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the Place a different presser foot below the holder shank in the holder. otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. be sure to turn off the sewing machine. ● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. and may cause injury. If you use the wrong presser foot. a Presser foot lever a Presser foot lever The presser foot is attached. the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break.) is positioned to be read. a Black button b Presser foot holder CAUTION ● Before replacing the presser foot. Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A. a Presser foot holder b Shank c Pin f presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot holder.REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT CAUTION ● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. ● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Using other any presser feet may cause an accident or injury. d presser foot holder to release the presser foot. I. a turn it off. 23 . Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise).

Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw Note ● If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder. Align the presser foot holder with the lower- Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder. Raise the presser foot lever to check that the ■ Attaching the presser foot holder a left side of the presser bar.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— g presser foot is securely attached. ■ Removing the presser foot holder a Remove the presser foot. • For details. a Presser foot holder b Presser bar b your right hand. refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 23). and then tighten the screw Hold the presser foot holder in place with using the screwdriver in your left hand. a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw 24 . such as the quilting foot. b holder screw. the thread tension will be incorrect.

● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing. Before operating the sewing machine. 25 . otherwise injuries may occur. General sewing procedure Follow the basic procedures below to sew. For details on turning on the machine. possibly resulting in injuries. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). 4 Start sewing. Bent needles can easily break. 3 Attach the presser foot. Turn on the sewing machine. ● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins. In addition. Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. cut the threads. otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break. read the following precautions. For details on selecting a stitch. 2 Select the stitch. otherwise the needle may break or bend. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. For details on starting to sew. When sewing is finished. and then start sewing. refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 23). refer to “Power supply” (page 10). ● Never use bent needles. keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel.2 SEWING BASICS SEWING Basic sewing operations are described below. For details on replacing the presser foot. pay special attention to the needle location. Position the fabric. 2 CAUTION ● While the machine is in operation. 1 Turn on the machine.

40. 43 7 Straight stitch (Left needle position) Stretch blind Stitch 33 8 33 9 Shell tuck stitch 43 10 Elastic stitch 44 26 . 41 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Zigzag (satin) stitch 6 Straight stitch (Center needle position) Select the desired length. select the desired stitch. 35.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting stitching Turning the stitch selection dial in either direction. aPattern selection dial Number on dial Stitch name 4-step automatic buttonhole b Pattern ac d Page 1 36 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 32. 33.

c Raise the presser foot lever. 27 . i turning the handwheel toward you a 5 cm (2 inches) j Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). h Take your foot off the foot controller. turn the handwheel While holding the end of the thread and the Turn on the sewing machine. 2 b turning the handwheel toward you Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching. The machine starts sewing. a Presser foot lever g Slowly press down on the foot controller. Raise the presser foot lever. and then Place the fabric under the presser foot.Starting to sew a e fabric with your left hand. a Presser foot lever d the thread under the presser foot. pass pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine. The machine stops sewing. f Lower the presser foot lever.

cutter on the back of the presser foot bar to cut them. b lever. a Thread cutter Sewing in reverse Reverse sewing is used to lock the threads at the end of the seam or wherever reinforcement is needed. To sew forward. Note ● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly inserted. release the reverse sewing 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 4 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. refer to “Lower threading” (page 14) and reinsert the bobbin. Memo ● Before beginning to change tension adjustments make sure the upper thread and bobbin are inserted correctly. ■ Correct tension Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric. the upper thread may be too tight.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— k and then pass the threads through the thread Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine. In this case. a while sewing. Thread tension The thread tension will affect the quality of your stitches. 28 . 1 2 3 a b c d Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Press and hold down the reverse sewing lever 4 ■ Upper tension is too tight Loops appear on the surface of the fabric. ● We recommend you do a test sample on a scrap of fabric before you start to sew. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread.

■ Bobbin tension is too loose Loops may appear on the surface of the fabric when sewing thin fabric with thin thread. 4 Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a higher number. 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 1 5 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on wrong side of fabric 4 2 2 3 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. In this case. Note ● If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded. the upper thread may be too loose. Be sure not to turn the screw more than one full turn. If the problem persists. no adjustment is needed. For most sewing applications. Note ● The bobbin thread tension has been adjusted at the factory for general use. refer to “Upper threading” (page 16) and rethread. 29 . increase the tension in the bobbin by turning the screw clockwise with a small screwdriver. be sure to return the screw to its original position before the next time that the machine is used.■ Upper tension is too loose Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric. In addition.

and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Trial sewing A trial piece of fabric should be sewn since. stop the Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project. use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project. If the needle was raised. For the trial sewing. CAUTION ● When using the twin needle. the desired results may not be achieved. Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot. depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn. Raise the presser foot lever. Sewing curves Stop sewing. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered. and then turn the b fabric. lower the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). c sewing. When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— USEFUL SEWING TIPS Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Lower the presser foot lever and continue CAUTION ● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inches) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force. When the stitching reaches a corner. Sewing thick fabrics ■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot. and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn. 30 . raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position. be sure to raise the needle before changing the sewing direction. Changing the sewing direction a sewing machine. the needle may bend or break. the needle may bend or break. Refer to these tips when sewing your project. select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.

Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics. To change your machine to the free-arm style. tear off any excess paper. and then pull the flat bed attachment out to remove it. and then sew without stretching the fabric. place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. lift the bottom of the flat bed attachment toward you. a Flat bed attachment 31 . a Basting Using a free-arm style Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas. baste the pieces of fabric together. When you have finished sewing. the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs. 2 a Stabilizer material or paper Sewing stretch fabrics First.

use straight stitches at the beginning and end of the zigzag stitch for reinforcement. They are also useful for sewing stretch materials.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— 3 UTILITY STITCHES USEFUL STITCHES Zigzag stitches You can use the zigzag stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. If the needle hits the presser foot. Select the desired width. CAUTION ● Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. Overcasting and attaching appliqués. Stitch name Application c Start sawing. • For details. 32 . Memo ● When sewing with a zigzag stitch. Number on dial 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Overcasting and attaching appliqués with the decorative satin stitches. cut the thread. the needle may bend or break. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). Lower the needle into the fabric at the b beginning of the stitching. • For details. Zigzag (satin) stitch a Select a stitch. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). d When sewing is finished. • For details. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27).

refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). Two stitches are available for basic stitching.Basic stitching Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. and press. c beginning of the stitching. • For details. etc. sewing gathers or pintucks. a Right side of fabric b Bottom side b hem. Straight stitch (Left needle position) Basic stitching. e When sewing is finished. like the hem of a pair of trousers. basic (Center needle stitching. Attaching Straight stitch zippers. without the stitch showing. • For details. a b Baste or pin together the fabric pieces. and position) sewing gathers or darning. • For details. 7 a Reverse the skirt or pants. d Lower the needle into the fabric at the Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the Start sewing. etc. cut the thread. Number on dial 8 Stitch name Stretch blind Stitch Application Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). <Seen from the side> a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric 33 . Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Blind hem stitching You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project. 3 Select a stitch.

h arm. e fabric with the wrong side facing up. and Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm then baste it. make sure that the fabric feeds correctly. Fold back the fabric inside along the basting.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— c (3/16 inches) from the edge of the fabric. Unfold the edge of fabric. and position the <Seen from the side> <Seen from the side> a b c d e d Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting stitching 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Wrong side of fabric b Basting c Edge of fabric f Select the stretch blind stitch (8). g free-arm sewing possible. <Seen from the side> a b c d Wrong side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Arm 34 . refer to“Using a free-arm style” (page 31). Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the and then start sewing. Remove the flat bed attachment and make • For details on free-arm sewing.

Remove the basting stitching and turn the k fabric right side up. basic (Center needle stitching. and position) sewing gathers or darning. etc. and then lower Position the fabric so that the needle slightly the presser foot lever. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Attaching Straight stitch zippers. make sure that both threads are the same color as the fabric. Darning Reinforce points that will be subject to strain. For invisible stitching. and then remove both the aNeedle bNeedle drop point cFold of hem dWrong side of fabric j Place the darning plate on the needle plate as presser foot and presser foot holder assembly. b Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). a shown below. c presser foot together with a fabric underlay a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric d with your hands. alternately drawing the Start sewing while gently moving the fabric fabric away and pulling it toward you. 3 Sew along the fold of the hem. Place the fabric to be darned under the for reinforcement. e filled with parallel stitching.i catches the fold of the hem. Stop sewing when the portion to be darned is 35 .

d that the middle of the front chalk line is Position the fabric under the presser foot so directly in the center of the presser foot and aligned with the two red lines on the insert. which is used for sewing buttonholes. Sew 5 to 6 stitches. Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. check the stitch length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric. ● When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— BUTTONHOLE SEWING Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back. place stabilizer material under the fablic. Select stitch “a” of the 4-step automatic Making the buttonhole The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”. Step Step a (Front end of button hole) Step b (Left side) Sewn portion Use chalk to mark the position and length of 1 Step c (Back end of button hole) a Marks on fabric Step d (Right side) b outside frame back until the sliding insert Attach buttonhole foot “A” and push the reaches the front of the outside frame. 36 . as shown below. Stitch name Application Memo ● Before sewing buttonholes. are indicated below. a b c d Presser foot scale Pin Marks on buttonhole foot 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Mark on fabric b Red marks on the sliding insert e Start sewing. Number on dial 1 4-step automatic buttonhole Buttonholes on medium weight fabrics. a the buttonhole on the fabric. a Reinforcement stitching c buttonhole (1).

and then raise the needle by Stop sewing when the needle is at the left side turning the handwheel toward you. o fabric. and then sew the length of the h chalk line. do not place your hands in the cutting path. Select stitch “b” of the 4-step automatic 2 Start sewing. and cut the thread. otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips. Select stitch “d” of the 4-step automatic n buttonhole until the needle reaches the Start sewing. select the straight stitch (6 through 10) with the desired length. Sew the right side of the stitching sewn in step e. i side of the stitching. Raise the presser foot lever. k CAUTION ● When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper. 3 Start sewing. g buttonhole (1). l side of the stitching. m buttonhole (1). Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended. and then use a seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole.f of the stitching. turn the fabric 90 degrees counterclockwise. p stitching to prevent the stitching from being Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole cut. and then raise the needle Stop sewing when the needle is at the right by turning the handwheel toward you. 1 a Seam ripper b Pin Select stitch “c” (same as “a”) of the 4-step j automatic buttonhole (1). and then raise the needle Stop sewing when the needle is at the right by turning the handwheel toward you. remove the 37 . For reinforcement. Sew 5 to 6 stitches. and then sew to the edge of the front bar tack.

Then. c shown below. and then sew them in the same way. first sew the two holes closest to you. slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine. Button sewing Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. d the fabric.2 mm (1/8 inches) 4.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting buitching stitching If the stitching on the two sides of the buttonhole is not uniform. Number of dial 2 3 4 Attach the button sewing foot “M”. a button to be attached. a Buttonhole fine-adjusting screw Distance between holes 1.8 mm (3/16 inches) b ■ If the right side is too loose compared to the left side Use the enclosed large screwdriver to turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw in the direction. 38 .6 mm (1/16 inches) 3. Place a button between the presser foot and • When attaching four-hole buttons. 3 or 4) according to the following table. the stitching can adjusted with the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw. and then select the Measure the distance between the holes in the appropriate zigzag stitch (2. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached. Place the darning plate on the needle plate as ■ If the right side is too tight compared to the left side Use the enclosed large screwdriver to turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw in the + direction.

leaving a length of 15 cm (6 inches). g and then cut the upper and lower threads. CAUTION ● When sewing. and Pull the upper thread at the end of the then tie it with the bobbin thread. f 3 Start sewing. h stitching to the wrong side of the fabric. return to step a. If the needle hits the button. Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine. press and hold down the reverse sewing lever to sew a few reinforcement stitches. otherwise the needle may bend or break. 39 . Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.e (counterclockwise) to check that the needle Turn the handwheel toward you correctly goes into the two holes of the button. • After sewing for about 10 seconds at a low speed. be sure that the needle does not touch the button.

Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application d top on both sides. When sewing the right side of the zipper. 40 . You may also be injured. release back of the presser foot. b left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the shank. The needle should be Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the positioned on the zipper side of the foot for best results. and position) sewing gathers or darning. and can easily position it to the right or left side of the needle. basic (Center needle stitching. Attaching Straight stitch zippers. a Zipper foot “I” b Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper c Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper a Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). the needle may break and you may be injured. the needle will hit the presser foot and break the needle. If you choose a different stitch. Fold the edge of the fabric 2 cm (3/4 inches) c and place the zipper under the folded section. attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. e the foot by pressing the button located at the To sew the opposite side of the zipper. CAUTION ● Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the needle does not hit the presser foot before you start sewing. CAUTION ● Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper during sewing. etc. Lower the needle into the notch located either on the left or right side of the zipper foot. attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot. If the needle hits the zipper. When sewing the left side of the zipper.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— ZIPPER INSERTION You can use the zipper foot “I” to sew different types of zippers. fit the zipper foot on the other side of the zipper and continue sewing using the other side notch.

Overcasting and attaching appliqués. Select the desired width. monogramming and embroidering. Number on dial 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Overcasting and attaching appliqués with the decorative satin stitches. MONOGRAMMING AND EMBROIDERING Zigzag stitches can be used for sewing appliqués. d stitching. Zigzag (satin) stitch Appliqués You can create an appliqué by cutting a different piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a decoration. as the needle can break.APPLIQUÉ. and then remove both the Place the darning plate on the needle plate as presser foot and presser foot holder assembly. You may also be injured. e Remove the basting. Monogramming and embroidering a shown below. Baste the cut design to the fabric. a b CAUTION ● Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin during sewing. Cut away any fabric that is left outside the Select a stitch. Stitch name Application c Carefully sew around the edge of the design. 41 . if necessary. 3 Memo ● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching.

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— b Select a stitch. Then. the stitches are longer. ■ Embroidering Sew along the outline of the design by moving the hoop slowly. fabric with the middle and third fingers. i and sew a few stitches for reinforcing. especially needles. and then sew a few stitches to reinforce the stitching. When the hoop is moved slowly. Select the desired length for straight stitch (6) Memo ● When the hoop is moved quickly. the stitches are shorter. g forefingers of both hands while pressing the Grip the hoop with the thumbs and Memo ● Be sure to keep the stitches close together. and support the outside of the hoop with your little fingers. sew to completely fill in the design with stitches by alternately sewing from the outline of the design to the inside and from the inside to the outline. h Start sewing. Place the project under the needle and lower f at the starting position by turning the Draw up the lower thread through the project handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). CAUTION ● Be sure to keep your fingers away from moving parts. 42 . d the surface of the fabric facing up inside the Put the fabric in the embroidery hoop with well. c design (for embroidering) on the surface of Draw the lettering (for monogramming) or the fabric. e the presser bar. ■ Monogramming Sew the lettering at a constant speed by moving the hoop slowly.

and then iron the tucks 43 . Unfold the fabric. Sew while making sure that the needle drops d down to one side. Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers. and increase • For details. b the thread tension. Sew a single or multiple parallel rows of • Do not sew reverse stitches or cut the thread.DECORATIVE STITCHING Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine. Stitch name Application a Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). Loosen the tension of the upper thread (to 3 b about 2). c slightly off the edge of the fabric. etc. Select the shell tuck stitch (9). refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). refer to “Thread tension” (page 28). the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics. They are used to decorate trims. Fold the fabric along the bias. Straight stitch basic stitching. a Attaching zippers. d Smooth the gathers by ironing them. • For details. (Center needle and sewing position) gathers or darning. Gathering Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Shell tuck stitching Number on dial 9 Shell tuck stitch Shell tuck stitching The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. c stitches.

■ Joining fabric Put the edges of the two pieces of fabric together. ■ Sewing elastic tape Place the elastic tape on the fabric. and then sew over the elastic tape while holding the tape both in front and behind the presser foot. sewing elastic or joining fabric. 44 . Then. Select the elastic stitch (10). ■ Mending Place the reinforcement fabric under the tear to be mended. sewing Elastic stitching elastic tape or joining fabric. The elastic stitch can be used in 3 ways: mending. start sewing the edges of the two fabrics together. and then place them under the presser foot with the fabric edges under the center of the presser foot. Memo ● Make reinforcing reverse stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching. and then sew over the tear. Each is explained below.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Elastic stitching Number on dial 10 Stitch name Application Mending.

Put 2 to 3 drops of oil at each of the points Be sure to wipe any excess oil off the machine. ● Unplug the power supply cord before changing the bulb. Oiling a Changing the bulb CAUTION Turn off the machine and unplug it. If you use it more often. 45 . ● Do not apply too much oil as it may soil the thread and fabric.4 APPENDIX MAINTENANCE Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. a b Turn off the machine and unplug it. run the machine for a short time Memo ● Make sure to oil the machine once a week if you use it more than an hour a day. Note ● Hold the face plate securely while removing or attaching it. ● Sewing machine oil is available at your local sewing machine dealer or service center. c at a fast speed without thread. After oiling. 4 Loosen the face plate screw. c Remove the face plate from the machine. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. oil every day. b indicated below.

APPENDIX d ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Replace the sewing light bulb. a bulb b Loosen c Tighten e again. wipe it again with a dry cloth. and then wipe the surface of the machine. a Bobbin case latch e ring to remove it. lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent. Raise the needle and the presser foot. b then remove the presser foot and the needle. Cleaning the machine surface If the surface of the machine is dirty. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. Cleaning the shuttle race CAUTION ● Be sure to unplug the machine before cleaning it. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. and c shuttle cover at the front of the free arm. squeeze it out firmly. Slide the latch levers out from the retaining CAUTION ● Unplug the power supply cord before cleaning the machine. a Retaining ring b Latch lever 46 . Remove the flat bed attachment and open the Attach the face plate and fasten the screw d toward you and pulling it out from the shuttle Remove the bobbin case by pulling its latch race. a Turn off the machine and unplug it.

Use a brush to remove any accumulated lint driver and race body. Attach the bobbin case. Raise the needle and the presser foot. b then remove the presser foot and the needle.f and pulling it out. a Retaining ring b Hook c Hook center post g and thread from the retaining ring. Use a brush to clean the lint from the upper Reassemble the hook and the retaining ring. Remove the hook by grasping its center post k the needle before using the machine. j and push the latch levers back into position. Otherwise. a Retaining ring b Driver c Race body h wipe the shuttle race in order to remove any Use a cloth dampened with machine oil to lint. e part of the feed dogs and shuttle race body. c shuttle cover at the front of the free arm. and Remove the flat bed attachment and open the 4 Remove the needle plate by using a coin or d screwdriver to remove the screws. you may get an electric shock or be injured. Attach the needle plate by using a coin or a Retaining ring b Hook c Latch lever 47 . a Turn off the machine and unplug it. hook. Clean the lint from the shuttle hook in the i same manner as described in step h. the presser foot and Cleaning the feed dogs CAUTION ● Make sure you unplug the machine before you clean it. f screwdriver.

pack it properly as described below. no adjustment is needed. After you adjust the bobbin thread.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Repacking the machine Keep the carton and packing materials for future use. the bobbin thread may be too loose. being careful not to over-tighten the screw. 48 . damage may occur during shipping. In this case. ■ Bobbin tension is too loose Loops appear on the surface of the fabric. ● Save this packing material in case it is needed to transport this sewing machine. When packing up the machine again. For most sewing applications. the thread tension may not be adjusted adequately with the upper tension control dial. turn the screw clockwise. adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread. Note ● If the loops still appear on the surface of the fabric after you adjust the upper tension. If it is not packed properly. the thread tension must be adjusted according to the procedure described below. Note ● Remember to return the screw to its original setting before starting your next project. approximately 30-45 degrees to increase bobbin tension. IMPORTANT ● This packing material is designed to prevent damage in transit. a Screw Bobbin case tension adjustment The bobbin thread tension has already been adjusted at the factory for general use. Therefore. 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 4 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. When sewing with thin thread on thin fabrics.

■ Bobbin tension is too tight Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric. After you adjust the bobbin thread. the bobbin thread may be too tight. In this case. adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread. 1 5 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on wrong side of fabric 2 3 4 Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a higher number. Note ● If the loops still appear on the wrong side of the fabric after you adjust the upper tension. approximately 30-45 degrees to decrease bobbin tension. 4 a Screw 49 . turn the screw counterclockwise being careful not to over-loosen the screw.

or the thread has come out of the guide above the needle. Visit us at [http://solutions.com]. authorized service center. How to put it right Plug the machine in. you have not fitted the spool properly. page 16 The upper thread breaks. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. 38. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. 40. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Turn on the main power switch. Choose a needle that is appropriate for the type of stitch. for example. the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. The needle breaks. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. If the problem persists. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. If you need additional help. Replace the needle. Loosen the upper thread tension. You have not used the right combination of fabric. The thread is tangled.Replace the needle plate. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. The upper thread tension is too tight.) Replace the presser foot. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. There are knots or tangles in the thread.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— TROUBLESHOOTING If the machine stops operating correctly. Use the foot controller properly. The sewing machine does not work. Replace the bobbin case. in the shuttle race. You have not used the foot controller properly. The needle is not appropriate for the thread you are using. You can solve most problems by yourself. 50 .brother. contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center. Remove any knots or tangles. The needle clamp screw is loose. Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw. – – page 12 Correct the upper threading. check the following possible problems before requesting service. Remove the tangle thread. 41 page 28 – – The main power switch is turned off. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left. You are pulling the fabric too much. Loosen the upper thread tension. – page 19 page 28 page 46 The upper thread tension is too tight. The area around the hole in the nee. The presser foot you are using is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you want to sew. Reference page 10 page 10 page 13 page 11 page 20 page 21 page 20 page 19 page 35. You have not inserted the needle properly. clean the shuttle race. The bobbin case is scratched. thread and needle. The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to the right. The needle is bent or blunt. (for example. Insert the needle properly. 36. Lightly guide the fabric. Symptom Possible cause The machine is not plugged in. Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched.

The bobbin case is scratched. Wind the bobbin thread properly. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. The upper thread breaks. The upper thread is too tight. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. The thread ten. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Insert the needle properly. The upper thread was not threaded correctly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. foot holder properly. thread and needle. Reference page 20 page 20 – The area around the hole in the nee. Replace the bobbin. Remove the tangled thread and clean the shuttle race. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. The bobbin is scratched or does not turn smoothly. Attach the presser-foot holder properly. Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched.Replace the needle plate. Bobbin is set incorrectly. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. – – page 12 page 12 – page 46 page 12 page 14 page 16 4 Correct the upper threading. The thread is tangled. Wind the bobbin thread properly. You have not inserted the needle properly. page 16 page 12 page 19 page 24 page 28 page 12 page 14 page 14 51 . authorised service center. Bobbin is set incorrectly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. Correct the upper threading. Reset the bobbin thread correctly.You have not attached the pressersion is incorrect. Replace the presser foot. The thread tension is incorrect. or has a burr on it. How to put it right Replace the needle. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. The thread is tangled on the wrong side of the fabric. The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed. The lower thread is tangled or breaks. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. Correctly install the bobbin thread. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Replace the bobbin case. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. You have not used the right combination of fabric. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly.Symptom Possible cause The needle is bent or blunt.

Reference page 14. The thread is tangled. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. There is a highpitched noise while sewing. page 33. thread and needle. the stitch is too thick. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. You have not inserted the needle properly. You have not fitted the spool properly. Remove the tangle thread. 47 page 46 page 16 – The fabric is wrinkled. Fit the spool properly. Adjust the tension of the upper thread.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Possible cause You have not threaded the upper thread properly or fitted the bobbin properly. Replace the needle. Sew with stabiliser material under the fabric. The needle is bent or blunt. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. page 45 52 . If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. in the shuttle race. The needle is bent or blunt. for example. The thread tension is incorrect. Correct the upper threading. Dust has accumulated under the needle plate or in the shuttle race. Dust has built up in the feed dogs or in the shuttle race. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Stitches are skipped. 16 – page 19 page 20 page 31 page 28 page 16 page 19 page 20 page 46. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. The sewing light bulb does not come on. 36. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. clean the shuttle race. Remove the tangle thread. 41 page 28 page 46 page 19 page 46 The fabric does not feed. Clean the shuttle race. The thread tension is incorrect. The bobbin case is scratched. Replace the needle. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew. 38. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Insert the needle properly. thread and needle. Remove the needle plate cover and clean the plate and the shuttle race. for example. Replace the bobbin case. in the shuttle race. Correct the upper threading. You have not used bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. Change the sewing light bulb. How to put it right Thread the upper thread and wind the bobbin thread properly. page 45 The presser foot that you are using is not correct for the type of stitch. oil every day. Make sure to oil the machine once a week if you use it more than an hour a day. The sewing lamp is damaged. If you use it more often. You have not used the right combination of fabric. thread and needle. The thread is tangled. 40. page 12 Insufficient oiling. clean the shuttle race. The stitch is not sewn correctly. If you are sewing thin fabric.

................................................ 48 reverse sewing lever ....................... 40 G gathering .........................36 T thick fabrics .......................... 28 trial sewing ... 16 straight stitch .......................................................................................................... 19 repacking ................... 23 presser foot holder .......8... 28 53 ................... 29.........................................................................................30 thin fabrics ....................... 12 button sewing .............................. 16 pre-tension disk ....................................................................................................................................8.............................................................47 spool pin ........................................................... 41 S satin stitching .............................................. 28 thread guide ..........................................................................................................................19 shell tuck stitching .28............... 21 needle plate .............................................................................................................................8 needle clamp screw .......................................................................................................31 thread cutter ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................INDEX A accessories ................................. 21.............................................. 50 twin needle .............................................................................................................................................33 blind hem stitching .............................................33 stretch blind stitch ......................... 8..........8.......32 pattern selection dial .................................................... 7 J joining ...................27 free-arm style ...... 46 D darning . 43 Z H handwheel ..................................35 E embroidering ..........................................45 overcasting stitches ...... 19 needle bar thread guide .......................................................................12 zigzag stitches ......................................................................................................................................36 buttonhole sewing ........................................................9 appliqués ... 44 M main parts .............................................................................................................................................................................. 16 thread tension ......................38 buttonhole foot ................. 47 O oiling .......32 seam ripper ........................................6........ 31 foot controller ............................................................................................6 main power switch ............................................................ 14 bobbin case .............................................10 monogramming ........................................................................................................................... 8..................................................8........................................................................................................................................... 24 presser foot lever ......................................................................................................................................................... 37 sewing machine needles . 30 troubleshooting ....................... 26 presser foot ...........................................................33 bobbin ................................................................ 48 upper threading ......47 shuttle race cleaning ...................................................................................................................33 stretch fabrics ......... 12 P R relative chart of sewing fabrics...... needles and threads ............. 41 zipper foot ...............30................................................................... 22 feed dogs ........................ 31 B basic stitching ................ 41 extra spool pin ...... 14 bobbin winder .........................................................................................................................................................................................40 zipper insertion ...........43 shuttle hook removal .12... 31 F U W winding the bobbin .... 47 flat bed attachment ................................................. 32................................................................ 41 N needle .........16 C cleaning ............. 7......................... 22 upper tension-control dial ..........

English XE4592-001 Printed in China .

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