KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

Basic Sewing and Mending Machine

Operation Manual
Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

“IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”
When using the sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: “Read all instructions before using.”

DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. 2. Always unplug before changing the light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts.

WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons: 1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near children. 2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4. Never operate the sewing machine with any of the air openings blocked. Keep the ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth. 5. Never drop or insert any object into any openings. 6. Do not use this machine outdoors. 7. Do not operate this machine where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. 8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “O” position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet. 9. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord. To unplug, grasp the plug and pull, not the cord. 10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle. 11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 12. Do not use a bent needle. 13. Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break. 14. Switch the sewing machine to the off, symbol “O” position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin, or changing the presser foot. 15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user service adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual. 16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or impaired persons without supervision. 17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this sewing machine. “SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS” “This sewing machine is intended for household use.”

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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.

IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug. NOTE The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted. WARNING DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW. The wires in this main lead are coloured in accordance with the following code: Blue Brown Neutral Live

As the colours of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows. The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘N’ or coloured black or blue. The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘L’ or coloured red or brown.

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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE
To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation 1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the handwheel, thread takeup lever, needle, or other moving parts. 2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when: • Operation is completed • Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts • A power failure occurs during use • Maintaining the machine • Leaving the machine unattended 3. Do not store anything on the foot controller. 4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords. For a longer service life 1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects. 2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used. 3. Do not drop or hit the machine. 4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation. For repair or adjustment In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer. For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

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................................................................................................................. 38 4 ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 25 Selecting stitching ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 33 Darning .......................................................... 30 Sewing thick fabrics .................................................................................................................................................................. 19 Checking the needle .......................... 31 3........................................ 10 Power supply ..................... 31 Using a free-arm style ...................................................................................................................................................................... 18 REPLACING THE NEEDLE .............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 19 Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types ............ 27 Sewing in reverse ..................................................................................................... 6 The main parts ................. 14 Upper threading .................................................................. 32 Zigzag stitches ......9 USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .............................................. 12 Lower threading ........................................................................................................................ 23 Removing the presser foot holder ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 31 Sewing stretch fabrics ............................................................ 36 Adjusting buitching stitching ........................................ 30 Trial sewing ................................. 11 THREADING THE MACHINE .................................................................................................................................. 30 Changing the sewing direction ............32 USEFUL STITCHES ........................................................................................ 22 REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ................................................................................................................................................. 28 USEFUL SEWING TIPS .................................................................................................................................. 38 Button sewing ..........................................................25 SEWING .......................... 30 Sewing curves ...................................................... 35 BUTTONHOLE SEWING ........................................................................................................................................................................................................... 8 Flat bed attachment ....................................................................................................... KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ...........................................................................................................................................................................................19 Needle precautions .....................10 Power supply precautions ................................................................................................................................................................................ UTILITY STITCHES ............................................................6 NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS .......................................................................................... 16 Drawing up the lower thread ................................................................................................................................. 20 Sewing with a twin needle (Option) ............................................. 24 2............................................................... 33 Blind hem stitching ..................................................................................................................................................... SEWING BASICS .................. 10 Foot controller ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................23 Replacing the presser foot ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 26 Starting to sew ............................................................... 11 Steadying the machine .................................................................................... 20 Replacing the needle .............................................................................................................—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— CONTENTS 1................................................................................ 6 Needle and presser foot section ............................................................................................................................................................................ 8 ACCESSORIES ............................. 28 Thread tension ..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................12 Winding the bobbin ..........................25 General sewing procedure ................................................................36 Making the buttonhole ............................................................................................................................................................................................................ 30 Sewing thin fabrics ................... 32 Basic stitching ......

......................................................................................... 45 Changing the bulb . 41 DECORATIVE STITCHING ...........................................................................................45 MAINTENANCE ......................................................................................ZIPPER INSERTION .......... 47 Repacking the machine ......................................................... 43 Shell tuck stitching ............................................................................................... 41 Appliqués ........................................................... 48 TROUBLESHOOTING .......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 48 Bobbin case tension adjustment . 40 APPLIQUÉ....................... 44 4........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 46 Cleaning the shuttle race ................................................................................................................................................................................ 43 Elastic stitching ..................................43 Gathering ......................... MONOGRAMMING AND EMBROIDERING ......................................................................................................................... APPENDIX .............................................................................. 45 Cleaning the machine surface ........ 46 Cleaning the feed dogs ..........................................................................................................................................................................................45 Oiling ......................................................................................... 41 Monogramming and embroidering ..............................................................................................................50 INDEX .................................................................. 53 5 ........................................................................................................................................

c Thread take-up lever (page 16) d Upper tension control dial (page 28) This controls the tension of the upper thread. b Pattern selection dial (page 26) Turn the pattern selection dial to select the number of the stitch that you want to use. e Flat bed attachment with accessory storage (page 8 and 31) f Reverse sewing lever (page 28) Press and hold down the reverse sewing lever to sew in the opposite direction.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— 1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS The main parts a Buttonhole fine-adjusting screw (page 38) Turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw to adjust buttonhole stitching when it is not uniform. 6 .

New Zealand). o Bobbin winding pre-tension disc/thread guide (page 12 and 16) The thread guide/bobbin winding pre-tension disc is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and threading the machine. j Handwheel Use the handwheel to manually raise and lower the needle. i Bobbin winder (page 12) The bobbin winder winds thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread. m Thread cutter (page 28) Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.1 g Built-in handle h Spool pin (page 12 and 16) The spool pin holds the spool of thread. p Foot controller (page 11) Use the foot controller to control the sewing speed and to start and stop sewing. n Presser foot lever (page 16) Use the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot. l Foot controller jack/jack Insert the foot controller plug into the foot controller jack. XE0629-001 (Australia. XC7438-321 (Russia) 7 . XD0852-021 (Korea). which also supplies power to this machine.). XC7456-321 (U. XC7438-321 (220/240V Area). k Main power/sewing light switch (page 10) Use this switch to turn on and off the main power and sewing light. XC7359-021 (110/120V Area). Part code.K.

and be lost or damaged. h Bobbin case i Needle j Needle bar thread guide k Needle clamp screw Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place. e Needle plate The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams. b Presser foot screw Use the presser foot screw to hold the presser foot holder assembly in place. 8 . If the accessories are not in a bag.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Needle and presser foot section Flat bed attachment The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment. a toward you. they may fall out. Note ● Put the accessories in the bag. a Flat bed attachment b Storage compartment a Presser foot holder assembly The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder assembly. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching. d Feed dogs The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction. and then store the bag inside the compartment. and then pull the flat bed Lift the bottom of the flat bed attachment attachment out to remove it. c Presser foot (Zigzag) The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. f Shuttle hook g Shuttle cover Open the shuttle cover to set the bobbin.

1 2 3 4 Part Name Buttonhole foot “A” Zipper foot “I” Button sewing foot “M” Darning plate Part Code U. 8.S. (Part code: 132730-122) ● A replacement for the factory-installed presser foot is available through your authorized dealer. 1 Note (For U.A. N This foot controller can be used on the following machine models: LS-2220/2720/1520/2125/2125i.S.ACCESSORIES The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment.S. ● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer. 3. / Canada Others X59369-321 X59370-021 XE2137-001 XA3442-121 No. 5 6 7 8 Part Name Bobbin (3) Needle set Screwdriver Extra spool pin Part Code U. 5. 4. only) ● Foot controller: Model KD-1902. / Canada Others XA5539-151 SA156 129583-021 X55467-021 130920-021 9 . No. 2.A. 6. (Part number: 138135-122) 1. We have designed these accessories to help you be able to carry out most sewing tasks. 75/11 1 needle 90/14 1 needle 100/16 1 needle 7.A.

Electric shock may result. damaged. forcefully bent. pulled. The sewing lamp comes on when the machine is turned on. or lead to fire or electric shock. into the jack on the machine. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. twisted. a Foot controller plug 10 . Otherwise a fire may result. ● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. ● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances: • When you are away from the machine • After using the machine • When the power fails during use • When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection • During electrical storms CAUTION ● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. modified. take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use. or damage to the machine. ● Do not allow the power cord to be cut. or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Power supply a between the foot controller and the power b Set the main power switch to “I”. WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire. ● When unplugging the machine. always turn off the main power first. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord. Fire or electric shock may result.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. If the cord or plug is damaged. insert the power supply plug into a wall outlet. Then. located supply plug on the cord. electric shock. Insert the foot controller plug. ● Do not touch the plug with wet hands.

When you press harder. To reduce the risk of electric shock. If it still does not fit. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock. the machine will run at a low speed. When you press the foot controller down lightly. Steadying the machine If the sewing machine has been placed on an uneven surface. Note ● If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated. the machine will stop.A. 1 Slower Faster You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use. ● A new sewing machine or one that has not been in use for a long period of time should be oiled as described on page 45. The sewing lamp goes off when the machine is turned off. After oiling. contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started. Do not modify the plug in any way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet. (For U.S. set the main power ”. follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine. reverse the plug. When you take your foot off the foot controller. Foot controller CAUTION ● When connecting the foot controller. CAUTION ● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller. be sure to wipe off any excess oil.c switch to “ To turn off the machine. the machine’s speed will increase. only) ● This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). When restarting the sewing machine. turn the rubber cushion in the right-front corner of the base plate to adjust its height until the sewing machine is stable. 11 .

the machine will not work properly. c the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin. and Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft Pass the thread around the pre-tension disk. SFB: XA5539-151). ● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. 1 Pulling it in as far as possible. 12 . Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine. the thread may tangle on the spool pin. CAUTION ● If the spool of thread is not in the right place. Pass the end of the thread through the hole on a Spring on the shaft b Groove of the bobbin e Turn on the sewing machine.5 mm (7/16 inches) This model a then put a spool of thread on this pin. SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing machine. a Pre-tension disk b Bobbin winder shaft c Bobbin CAUTION ● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156. b Other models d and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. Pull up the spool pin as far as possible. If you use bobbins from other models. Actual size 11. Turn the bobbin clockwise. by hand. until the spring on the shaft slides into the groove of the bobbin.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— THREADING THE MACHINE Winding the bobbin This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156.

Cut the thread. and the bobbin is wound. take your foot off the foot When the bobbin seems full and begins controller. slide the bobbin winder shaft around the bobbin a few times. the machine will make a clicking sound. ● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen. Memo ● When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin. Then stop the machine. CAUTION ● Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. If you do not cut the thread completely. breaking the needle and resulting in injury. 13 . h 1 a Wound evenly b Wound poorly 2 Press the foot controller to start.f press the foot controller to wind the thread While holding the end of the thread. gently j to the left and remove the bobbin. when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break. ● The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right. this is not a malfunction. 1 CAUTION g Trim the excess thread above the bobbin. i spinning slowly.

CAUTION ● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. CAUTION ● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen. it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle. ● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. you could be injured. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156. breaking the needle and resulting in injury. the machine will not operate correctly. Actual size 11.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— b attachment at the front of the machine. If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew. Open the shuttle cover behind the flat bed Lower threading Install the bobbin wound with thread. a the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) Raise the needle to its highest position by turning and raise the presser foot lever. • Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine. and then insert the bobbin Unwind about 10 cm (4 inches) of thread into the bobbin case. If bobbins from other models are used. 14 . SFB: XA5539-151). CAUTION ● Make sure you turn the power off while threading the machine. a Flat bed attachment b Shuttle cover 1 a Wound evenly b Wound poorly 2 c toward you and pulling it out from the shuttle Remove the bobbin case by pulling its latch race. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction.5 mm (7/16 inches) This model Other models a Bobbin case latch d from a full bobbin.

If it is incorrectly installed. • Make sure the bobbin case finger fits into the notch at the top of the shuttle race. a Bobbin case finger b Notch g Close the shuttle cover. down the delivery eye under the tension spring. it will fall out from the shuttle when the machine starts to sew. fully insert release the latch. 15 . CAUTION ● Make sure that the bobbin case is properly placed back into the machine. and then Hold the bobbin case by the latch. 1 a Tension spring f the bobbin case into the shuttle race. as shown below.e and to the left. until it enters Pull the trailing thread through the slot.

• If the needle is not correctly raised. a Upper tension control dial b Thread check spring 16 . Otherwise. or is set incorrectly. Be sure to turn the handwheel before threading the sewing machine. a lever. d guides: the rear one first. the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break. the sewing machine can not be threaded. then the front one. Raise the needle by turning the handwheel b toward you (counterclockwise) to raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position. and CAUTION ● If the spool of thread is in the wrong place. a b c d Spool pin Thread guide (rear) Thread guide (front) Thread take-up lever CAUTION ● Make sure you thread the machine properly. the thread could tangle and break the needle. Raise the presser foot using the presser foot c then put a spool of thread on this pin.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Upper threading Set the upper thread and thread the needle. Pull up the spool pin as far as possible. a Presser foot lever e tension control dial from the right to the left Feed the upper thread through both thread Pull the thread down and around the upper so the thread picks up the thread check spring.

● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems. Make sure you raise the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread.f pull it between the tension discs. Put the thread behind the needle bar thread The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand. the upper thread cannot be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. 17 . h guide above the needle. Guide the thread through the thread take-up a Needle bar thread guide i out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread. then feeding the thread with your right hand. 1 g lever from right to left. While holding the thread as shown below. Thread the needle from front to back and pull a Thread take-up lever a 5 cm (2 inches) Note ● If the thread take-up lever is lowered.

a Upper thread b Lower thread c thread. d threads and pull them toward the back of the Pull out about 15 cm (6 inches) of both machine under the presser foot. Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower a Upper thread b Lower thread 18 .KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Drawing up the lower thread a Lightly hold the end of the upper thread. a Upper thread b raise the needle to its highest position by While holding the end of the upper thread. turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).

● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads. Satin. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine. Corduroy. Silk. Taffeta. your machine. Organza. Double knit. Canvas. ● Never use bent needles. Sewing fabrics Very thin Fine tricot. 90/14 (Ball point) Jersey. Percale. Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Chiffon 65/9 Needle sizes Thread sizes Cotton: 80 Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Fine Mercerized Cotton Cotton: 60-80 Silk: “A” Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Mercerized 50 Cotton: 50-60 Silk: “A” Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Mercerized 50-60 Cotton: 40-50 Mercerized Heavy Duty Polyester Long Fiber Cotton Wrapped Polyester Polyester Long Fiber Lightweight Voile. Muslin Denim. Tricot Memo ● The smaller the thread number. Gabardine. Bent needles can easily break. the thicker the thread. ● Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below. regardless of the fabric being sewn. possibly resulting in injury. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew. Batiste Cotton. Velvet. 1 CAUTION ● Only use home sewing machine needles. Thin linen. Silk. Fine lace. Linen. and the larger the needle number. Gingham. 90/14 (Supplied with Lightweight wool. the thicker the needle.REPLACING THE NEEDLE This section provides information on sewing machine needles. Pique. Use the same size thread for the upper (spool) and lower (bobbin) threads. Duck 100/16 Medium weight Heavyweight Knits Single knit.) Fine corduroy. Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Suitings. Tweed. Poplin. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous. 75/11 Synthetics. ● A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased. 19 .

b turning the handwheel toward you 1 2 Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). be sure to turn off the sewing machine. place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even. CAUTION ● Before replacing the needle. a Flat side b Needle type marking ■ Correct needle c Lower the presser foot lever. thread and needle is not correct. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle” . 1 a Flat surface ■ Incorrect needle If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even. particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11).KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION ● The appropriate fabric. a Turn off the sewing machine. otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. If the combination of the fabric. the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches. In addition. Replacing the needle Replace the needle as described below. the needle may bend or break. Checking the needle Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle. a Presser foot lever 1 a Flat surface 20 . Before using the needle. thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page.

a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw • Do not apply strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw. insert the needle until it With the flat side of the needle toward the touches the needle stopper.d use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp Hold the needle with your left hand. a the needle clamp onto the needle bar so that As seen from the front of the machine. otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged. Therefore. clamp screw by turning it clockwise. and then Align the bottom edge of the needle holder tighten the needle clamp screw. (If the needle clamp screw is loosened too much. otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.) 1 Install the twin needle in the same way. Note ● The needle can be removed by simply loosening the needle clamp screw about one turn. CAUTION ● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver. the needle clamp (which holds the needle) may fall off. a Needle stopper a b c d Needle bar Needle holder Needle clamp screw Align 21 . ■ Installing the needle clamp If the needle clamp is removed. follow the procedure below to attach it to the needle bar. slide the needle clamp screw is on the right side and the needle bar thread guide is at the bottom. do not loosen the needle clamp screw too much. f use the screwdriver to tighten the needle While holding the needle with your left hand. e rear of the machine. a Needle clamp screw b Needle bar thread guide c Needle bar b with the end of the needle bar. and then screw counterclockwise to remove the needle.

the machine. The needle could break and injure you. You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches. e the machine to the thread take-up lever. ● When using the twin needle. a Left needle thread passes through the needle bar thread guide. ● When changing the sewing direction. Use the thread from the first spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the needle bar thread guide is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). thread guide. d Thread the left needle from front to back. See page 16 for more details. single needle (page 20). 22 .KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing with a twin needle (Option) We have designed your machine so you can sew with the optional twin needle and two top threads. Other needles could break. and damage the machine. f Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar Thread the right needle from front to back. Use the thread from the second spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the thread take-up lever is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered. ● Do not sew with bent needles. b Right needle thread passes in front of the needle bar thread guide. the needle may bend or break. CAUTION ● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: X57521-021). c Needle bar thread guide a First spool b Second spool c the machine to the needle bar thread guide. be sure to select an appropriate stitch (straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2). If the needle hits the presser foot. See page 16 for more details. be sure to raise the needle before turning the fabric. b Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of Attach the extra spool pin. the needle may bend or break. otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. ■ Twin needle threading a Attach the twin needle in the same way as a Attach the twin needle. Put the second spool of thread onto the extra spool pin. ● Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. The stitches available for twin-needle sewing are straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2.

Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A. Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). b turning the handwheel toward you e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the Place a different presser foot below the holder shank in the holder. the machine will start and you may be injured. Press the black button at the back of the If the sewing machine has been turned on. be sure to turn off the sewing machine. etc. 1 Replacing the presser foot Replace the presser foot as described below. If you leave the power on and step on the controller. d presser foot holder to release the presser foot. If you use the wrong presser foot. ● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. ● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. 23 . a Presser foot lever a Presser foot lever The presser foot is attached. the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break.) is positioned to be read. otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT CAUTION ● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. a turn it off. a Presser foot holder b Shank c Pin f presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot holder. Using other any presser feet may cause an accident or injury. a Black button b Presser foot holder CAUTION ● Before replacing the presser foot. and may cause injury. c Raise the presser foot lever. I.

Align the presser foot holder with the lower- Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder. Raise the presser foot lever to check that the ■ Attaching the presser foot holder a left side of the presser bar. a Presser foot holder b Presser bar b your right hand.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— g presser foot is securely attached. and then tighten the screw Hold the presser foot holder in place with using the screwdriver in your left hand. b holder screw. such as the quilting foot. the thread tension will be incorrect. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder. refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 23). ■ Removing the presser foot holder a Remove the presser foot. Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw Note ● If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed. • For details. a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw 24 .

otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break. Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. read the following precautions. For details on replacing the presser foot. ● Never use bent needles. possibly resulting in injuries. keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel.2 SEWING BASICS SEWING Basic sewing operations are described below. refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 23). otherwise the needle may break or bend. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). 3 Attach the presser foot. Before operating the sewing machine. 1 Turn on the machine. For details on turning on the machine. ● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing. Bent needles can easily break. and then start sewing. 2 Select the stitch. otherwise injuries may occur. Turn on the sewing machine. refer to “Power supply” (page 10). For details on selecting a stitch. Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. For details on starting to sew. 2 CAUTION ● While the machine is in operation. 4 Start sewing. When sewing is finished. In addition. 25 . cut the threads. pay special attention to the needle location. Position the fabric. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). ● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins. General sewing procedure Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

select the desired stitch. 33. 35. 41 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Zigzag (satin) stitch 6 Straight stitch (Center needle position) Select the desired length.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting stitching Turning the stitch selection dial in either direction. aPattern selection dial Number on dial Stitch name 4-step automatic buttonhole b Pattern ac d Page 1 36 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 32. 43 7 Straight stitch (Left needle position) Stretch blind Stitch 33 8 33 9 Shell tuck stitch 43 10 Elastic stitch 44 26 . 40.

f Lower the presser foot lever. a Presser foot lever g Slowly press down on the foot controller. Raise the presser foot lever. c Raise the presser foot lever.Starting to sew a e fabric with your left hand. 2 b turning the handwheel toward you Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). The machine starts sewing. 27 . and then Place the fabric under the presser foot. a Presser foot lever d the thread under the presser foot. toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching. The machine stops sewing. turn the handwheel While holding the end of the thread and the Turn on the sewing machine. pass pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine. i turning the handwheel toward you a 5 cm (2 inches) j Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). h Take your foot off the foot controller.

● We recommend you do a test sample on a scrap of fabric before you start to sew.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— k and then pass the threads through the thread Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine. b lever. Note ● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly inserted. ■ Correct tension Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric. 28 . Memo ● Before beginning to change tension adjustments make sure the upper thread and bobbin are inserted correctly. release the reverse sewing 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 4 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. a while sewing. 1 2 3 a b c d Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Press and hold down the reverse sewing lever 4 ■ Upper tension is too tight Loops appear on the surface of the fabric. refer to “Lower threading” (page 14) and reinsert the bobbin. Thread tension The thread tension will affect the quality of your stitches. a Thread cutter Sewing in reverse Reverse sewing is used to lock the threads at the end of the seam or wherever reinforcement is needed. cutter on the back of the presser foot bar to cut them. the upper thread may be too tight. To sew forward. In this case. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread.

29 . 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 1 5 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on wrong side of fabric 4 2 2 3 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. In this case. Be sure not to turn the screw more than one full turn. refer to “Upper threading” (page 16) and rethread. no adjustment is needed. increase the tension in the bobbin by turning the screw clockwise with a small screwdriver. the upper thread may be too loose. Note ● If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded. Note ● The bobbin thread tension has been adjusted at the factory for general use. 4 Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a higher number. For most sewing applications.■ Upper tension is too loose Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric. If the problem persists. In addition. be sure to return the screw to its original position before the next time that the machine is used. ■ Bobbin tension is too loose Loops may appear on the surface of the fabric when sewing thin fabric with thin thread.

and then turn the b fabric. depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn. lower the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). CAUTION ● When using the twin needle. Changing the sewing direction a sewing machine. Sewing curves Stop sewing. the needle may bend or break. the needle may bend or break. c sewing. Sewing thick fabrics ■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot. use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project. Trial sewing A trial piece of fabric should be sewn since. Raise the presser foot lever. stop the Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn. Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot. 30 . be sure to raise the needle before changing the sewing direction.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— USEFUL SEWING TIPS Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch. and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position. the desired results may not be achieved. select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch. When the stitching reaches a corner. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered. Lower the presser foot lever and continue CAUTION ● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inches) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force. For the trial sewing. perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project. and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Refer to these tips when sewing your project. If the needle was raised.

baste the pieces of fabric together. the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. When you have finished sewing. a Flat bed attachment 31 . To change your machine to the free-arm style. and then pull the flat bed attachment out to remove it. place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. a Basting Using a free-arm style Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas. and then sew without stretching the fabric. 2 a Stabilizer material or paper Sewing stretch fabrics First.Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics. lift the bottom of the flat bed attachment toward you. tear off any excess paper. If this occurs.

Stitch name Application c Start sawing. Memo ● When sewing with a zigzag stitch. Number on dial 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Overcasting and attaching appliqués with the decorative satin stitches. use straight stitches at the beginning and end of the zigzag stitch for reinforcement. Lower the needle into the fabric at the b beginning of the stitching. They are also useful for sewing stretch materials. d When sewing is finished. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). If the needle hits the presser foot. • For details. 32 . Overcasting and attaching appliqués. cut the thread. Zigzag (satin) stitch a Select a stitch. • For details. Select the desired width.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— 3 UTILITY STITCHES USEFUL STITCHES Zigzag stitches You can use the zigzag stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). • For details. the needle may bend or break. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). CAUTION ● Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot.

Number on dial 8 Stitch name Stretch blind Stitch Application Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics. basic (Center needle stitching. cut the thread. • For details. sewing gathers or pintucks. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). e When sewing is finished. Two stitches are available for basic stitching. Straight stitch (Left needle position) Basic stitching. like the hem of a pair of trousers. c beginning of the stitching. <Seen from the side> a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric 33 . a b Baste or pin together the fabric pieces. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Blind hem stitching You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project. 7 a Reverse the skirt or pants. Attaching Straight stitch zippers. etc. • For details. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). etc. and position) sewing gathers or darning. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). without the stitch showing. • For details. d Lower the needle into the fabric at the Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the Start sewing.Basic stitching Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. a Right side of fabric b Bottom side b hem. 3 Select a stitch. and press.

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the and then start sewing. Remove the flat bed attachment and make • For details on free-arm sewing. e fabric with the wrong side facing up. make sure that the fabric feeds correctly. h arm. Unfold the edge of fabric. and Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm then baste it. <Seen from the side> a b c d Wrong side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Arm 34 . and position the <Seen from the side> <Seen from the side> a b c d e d Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting stitching 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Wrong side of fabric b Basting c Edge of fabric f Select the stretch blind stitch (8). Fold back the fabric inside along the basting.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— c (3/16 inches) from the edge of the fabric. g free-arm sewing possible. refer to“Using a free-arm style” (page 31).

For invisible stitching. and position) sewing gathers or darning. Place the fabric to be darned under the for reinforcement. etc. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Attaching Straight stitch zippers. basic (Center needle stitching. and then lower Position the fabric so that the needle slightly the presser foot lever. Darning Reinforce points that will be subject to strain. e filled with parallel stitching. Stop sewing when the portion to be darned is 35 . b Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). 3 Sew along the fold of the hem. and then remove both the aNeedle bNeedle drop point cFold of hem dWrong side of fabric j Place the darning plate on the needle plate as presser foot and presser foot holder assembly. alternately drawing the Start sewing while gently moving the fabric fabric away and pulling it toward you. Remove the basting stitching and turn the k fabric right side up.i catches the fold of the hem. a shown below. c presser foot together with a fabric underlay a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric d with your hands. make sure that both threads are the same color as the fabric.

a the buttonhole on the fabric. as shown below. a b c d Presser foot scale Pin Marks on buttonhole foot 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Mark on fabric b Red marks on the sliding insert e Start sewing. d that the middle of the front chalk line is Position the fabric under the presser foot so directly in the center of the presser foot and aligned with the two red lines on the insert.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— BUTTONHOLE SEWING Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Select stitch “a” of the 4-step automatic Making the buttonhole The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”. ● When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics. Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back. place stabilizer material under the fablic. Sew 5 to 6 stitches. Step Step a (Front end of button hole) Step b (Left side) Sewn portion Use chalk to mark the position and length of 1 Step c (Back end of button hole) a Marks on fabric Step d (Right side) b outside frame back until the sliding insert Attach buttonhole foot “A” and push the reaches the front of the outside frame. a Reinforcement stitching c buttonhole (1). which is used for sewing buttonholes. Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. Number on dial 1 4-step automatic buttonhole Buttonholes on medium weight fabrics. Stitch name Application Memo ● Before sewing buttonholes. are indicated below. check the stitch length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric. 36 .

and cut the thread. 3 Start sewing. For reinforcement. turn the fabric 90 degrees counterclockwise. remove the 37 .f of the stitching. otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips. Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended. 1 a Seam ripper b Pin Select stitch “c” (same as “a”) of the 4-step j automatic buttonhole (1). and then raise the needle Stop sewing when the needle is at the right by turning the handwheel toward you. and then sew the length of the h chalk line. Select stitch “d” of the 4-step automatic n buttonhole until the needle reaches the Start sewing. o fabric. Sew 5 to 6 stitches. and then raise the needle Stop sewing when the needle is at the right by turning the handwheel toward you. k CAUTION ● When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper. Select stitch “b” of the 4-step automatic 2 Start sewing. and then sew to the edge of the front bar tack. and then use a seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole. m buttonhole (1). Sew the right side of the stitching sewn in step e. and then raise the needle by Stop sewing when the needle is at the left side turning the handwheel toward you. l side of the stitching. Raise the presser foot lever. p stitching to prevent the stitching from being Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole cut. select the straight stitch (6 through 10) with the desired length. do not place your hands in the cutting path. i side of the stitching. g buttonhole (1).

Place the darning plate on the needle plate as ■ If the right side is too tight compared to the left side Use the enclosed large screwdriver to turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw in the + direction. c shown below.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting buitching stitching If the stitching on the two sides of the buttonhole is not uniform. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached. 3 or 4) according to the following table. 38 . Number of dial 2 3 4 Attach the button sewing foot “M”.2 mm (1/8 inches) 4. a Buttonhole fine-adjusting screw Distance between holes 1. a button to be attached. Place a button between the presser foot and • When attaching four-hole buttons. Then. d the fabric. and then sew them in the same way.8 mm (3/16 inches) b ■ If the right side is too loose compared to the left side Use the enclosed large screwdriver to turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw in the direction. Button sewing Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine. the stitching can adjusted with the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw. and then select the Measure the distance between the holes in the appropriate zigzag stitch (2. first sew the two holes closest to you.6 mm (1/16 inches) 3.

If the needle hits the button. be sure that the needle does not touch the button.e (counterclockwise) to check that the needle Turn the handwheel toward you correctly goes into the two holes of the button. Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine. press and hold down the reverse sewing lever to sew a few reinforcement stitches. leaving a length of 15 cm (6 inches). otherwise the needle may bend or break. • After sewing for about 10 seconds at a low speed. and Pull the upper thread at the end of the then tie it with the bobbin thread. return to step a. h stitching to the wrong side of the fabric. f 3 Start sewing. Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching. 39 . CAUTION ● When sewing. g and then cut the upper and lower threads.

a Zipper foot “I” b Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper c Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper a Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). fit the zipper foot on the other side of the zipper and continue sewing using the other side notch. the needle will hit the presser foot and break the needle. If you choose a different stitch. attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— ZIPPER INSERTION You can use the zipper foot “I” to sew different types of zippers. CAUTION ● Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the needle does not hit the presser foot before you start sewing. e the foot by pressing the button located at the To sew the opposite side of the zipper. When sewing the right side of the zipper. attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. b left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the shank. Lower the needle into the notch located either on the left or right side of the zipper foot. When sewing the left side of the zipper. Fold the edge of the fabric 2 cm (3/4 inches) c and place the zipper under the folded section. If the needle hits the zipper. You may also be injured. and can easily position it to the right or left side of the needle. basic (Center needle stitching. Attaching Straight stitch zippers. and position) sewing gathers or darning. 40 . the needle may break and you may be injured. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application d top on both sides. release back of the presser foot. CAUTION ● Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper during sewing. The needle should be Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the positioned on the zipper side of the foot for best results. etc.

d stitching. and then remove both the Place the darning plate on the needle plate as presser foot and presser foot holder assembly. a b CAUTION ● Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin during sewing. if necessary. monogramming and embroidering. Monogramming and embroidering a shown below. Select the desired width. 41 . Number on dial 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Overcasting and attaching appliqués with the decorative satin stitches. Zigzag (satin) stitch Appliqués You can create an appliqué by cutting a different piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a decoration. e Remove the basting. Cut away any fabric that is left outside the Select a stitch.APPLIQUÉ. as the needle can break. MONOGRAMMING AND EMBROIDERING Zigzag stitches can be used for sewing appliqués. Stitch name Application c Carefully sew around the edge of the design. Overcasting and attaching appliqués. You may also be injured. Baste the cut design to the fabric. 3 Memo ● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching.

Select the desired length for straight stitch (6) Memo ● When the hoop is moved quickly.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— b Select a stitch. CAUTION ● Be sure to keep your fingers away from moving parts. Then. i and sew a few stitches for reinforcing. especially needles. h Start sewing. 42 . e the presser bar. and support the outside of the hoop with your little fingers. Place the project under the needle and lower f at the starting position by turning the Draw up the lower thread through the project handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). ■ Embroidering Sew along the outline of the design by moving the hoop slowly. ■ Monogramming Sew the lettering at a constant speed by moving the hoop slowly. sew to completely fill in the design with stitches by alternately sewing from the outline of the design to the inside and from the inside to the outline. fabric with the middle and third fingers. the stitches are shorter. and then sew a few stitches to reinforce the stitching. d the surface of the fabric facing up inside the Put the fabric in the embroidery hoop with well. the stitches are longer. g forefingers of both hands while pressing the Grip the hoop with the thumbs and Memo ● Be sure to keep the stitches close together. When the hoop is moved slowly. c design (for embroidering) on the surface of Draw the lettering (for monogramming) or the fabric.

DECORATIVE STITCHING Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine. refer to “Thread tension” (page 28). the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). They are used to decorate trims. Select the shell tuck stitch (9). Unfold the fabric. and then iron the tucks 43 . c stitches. Sew while making sure that the needle drops d down to one side. d Smooth the gathers by ironing them. Gathering Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Shell tuck stitching Number on dial 9 Shell tuck stitch Shell tuck stitching The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. Fold the fabric along the bias. Sew a single or multiple parallel rows of • Do not sew reverse stitches or cut the thread. (Center needle and sewing position) gathers or darning. and increase • For details. c slightly off the edge of the fabric. Stitch name Application a Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). Straight stitch basic stitching. Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers. Loosen the tension of the upper thread (to 3 b about 2). • For details. a Attaching zippers. etc. b the thread tension.

The elastic stitch can be used in 3 ways: mending. sewing elastic or joining fabric. ■ Sewing elastic tape Place the elastic tape on the fabric. Memo ● Make reinforcing reverse stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching. Each is explained below. ■ Mending Place the reinforcement fabric under the tear to be mended. Select the elastic stitch (10). and then sew over the tear. 44 .UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Elastic stitching Number on dial 10 Stitch name Application Mending. and then place them under the presser foot with the fabric edges under the center of the presser foot. and then sew over the elastic tape while holding the tape both in front and behind the presser foot. start sewing the edges of the two fabrics together. sewing Elastic stitching elastic tape or joining fabric. ■ Joining fabric Put the edges of the two pieces of fabric together. Then.

c at a fast speed without thread. Put 2 to 3 drops of oil at each of the points Be sure to wipe any excess oil off the machine. Oiling a Changing the bulb CAUTION Turn off the machine and unplug it. run the machine for a short time Memo ● Make sure to oil the machine once a week if you use it more than an hour a day. Note ● Hold the face plate securely while removing or attaching it. ● Sewing machine oil is available at your local sewing machine dealer or service center. ● Do not apply too much oil as it may soil the thread and fabric.4 APPENDIX MAINTENANCE Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. b indicated below. 45 . c Remove the face plate from the machine. After oiling. oil every day. 4 Loosen the face plate screw. ● Unplug the power supply cord before changing the bulb. If you use it more often. a b Turn off the machine and unplug it.

Cleaning the shuttle race CAUTION ● Be sure to unplug the machine before cleaning it. Cleaning the machine surface If the surface of the machine is dirty. a Turn off the machine and unplug it. lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent. Slide the latch levers out from the retaining CAUTION ● Unplug the power supply cord before cleaning the machine. wipe it again with a dry cloth. Remove the flat bed attachment and open the Attach the face plate and fasten the screw d toward you and pulling it out from the shuttle Remove the bobbin case by pulling its latch race. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. squeeze it out firmly. Raise the needle and the presser foot. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth. a Retaining ring b Latch lever 46 . and then wipe the surface of the machine. and c shuttle cover at the front of the free arm. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. b then remove the presser foot and the needle.APPENDIX d ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Replace the sewing light bulb. a bulb b Loosen c Tighten e again. a Bobbin case latch e ring to remove it.

c shuttle cover at the front of the free arm. Raise the needle and the presser foot. the presser foot and Cleaning the feed dogs CAUTION ● Make sure you unplug the machine before you clean it. hook. Attach the bobbin case. j and push the latch levers back into position. b then remove the presser foot and the needle. Use a brush to remove any accumulated lint driver and race body. Clean the lint from the shuttle hook in the i same manner as described in step h. Attach the needle plate by using a coin or a Retaining ring b Hook c Latch lever 47 .f and pulling it out. a Retaining ring b Hook c Hook center post g and thread from the retaining ring. Otherwise. f screwdriver. Use a brush to clean the lint from the upper Reassemble the hook and the retaining ring. a Turn off the machine and unplug it. Remove the hook by grasping its center post k the needle before using the machine. e part of the feed dogs and shuttle race body. a Retaining ring b Driver c Race body h wipe the shuttle race in order to remove any Use a cloth dampened with machine oil to lint. and Remove the flat bed attachment and open the 4 Remove the needle plate by using a coin or d screwdriver to remove the screws. you may get an electric shock or be injured.

no adjustment is needed. Therefore. 48 . the bobbin thread may be too loose. Note ● If the loops still appear on the surface of the fabric after you adjust the upper tension. 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 4 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. being careful not to over-tighten the screw. adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread. IMPORTANT ● This packing material is designed to prevent damage in transit. ● Save this packing material in case it is needed to transport this sewing machine. For most sewing applications. the thread tension must be adjusted according to the procedure described below. ■ Bobbin tension is too loose Loops appear on the surface of the fabric. When sewing with thin thread on thin fabrics.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Repacking the machine Keep the carton and packing materials for future use. When packing up the machine again. pack it properly as described below. In this case. Note ● Remember to return the screw to its original setting before starting your next project. If it is not packed properly. After you adjust the bobbin thread. a Screw Bobbin case tension adjustment The bobbin thread tension has already been adjusted at the factory for general use. approximately 30-45 degrees to increase bobbin tension. damage may occur during shipping. turn the screw clockwise. the thread tension may not be adjusted adequately with the upper tension control dial.

4 a Screw 49 . 1 5 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on wrong side of fabric 2 3 4 Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a higher number. the bobbin thread may be too tight. Note ● If the loops still appear on the wrong side of the fabric after you adjust the upper tension. approximately 30-45 degrees to decrease bobbin tension. In this case. turn the screw counterclockwise being careful not to over-loosen the screw. adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread. After you adjust the bobbin thread.■ Bobbin tension is too tight Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric.

The needle is bent or blunt. or the thread has come out of the guide above the needle. Replace the needle. – page 19 page 28 page 46 The upper thread tension is too tight. You have not used the foot controller properly. Turn on the main power switch. The needle is not appropriate for the thread you are using.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— TROUBLESHOOTING If the machine stops operating correctly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. 50 . Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched. Remove any knots or tangles. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. The thread is tangled. the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. (for example. 40. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. The area around the hole in the nee. The sewing machine does not work. in the shuttle race. If the problem persists. You are pulling the fabric too much. You can solve most problems by yourself. Lightly guide the fabric. How to put it right Plug the machine in. thread and needle. you have not fitted the spool properly. The needle clamp screw is loose. 36. for example. If you need additional help. The bobbin case is scratched. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. 41 page 28 – – The main power switch is turned off. The presser foot you are using is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you want to sew. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. Symptom Possible cause The machine is not plugged in.brother. The upper thread tension is too tight. There are knots or tangles in the thread. Remove the tangle thread. authorized service center. 38. check the following possible problems before requesting service. Loosen the upper thread tension. clean the shuttle race. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric.) Replace the presser foot.Replace the needle plate.com]. Loosen the upper thread tension. Use the foot controller properly. Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw. Choose a needle that is appropriate for the type of stitch. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Insert the needle properly. The needle breaks. Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left. page 16 The upper thread breaks. Replace the bobbin case. – – page 12 Correct the upper threading. You have not inserted the needle properly. contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. Visit us at [http://solutions. Reference page 10 page 10 page 13 page 11 page 20 page 21 page 20 page 19 page 35. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to the right.

Bobbin is set incorrectly. The bobbin is scratched or does not turn smoothly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. You have not inserted the needle properly. – – page 12 page 12 – page 46 page 12 page 14 page 16 4 Correct the upper threading. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. foot holder properly. How to put it right Replace the needle. Correct the upper threading. Replace the bobbin case. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. The thread ten. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Attach the presser-foot holder properly.Symptom Possible cause The needle is bent or blunt. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. page 16 page 12 page 19 page 24 page 28 page 12 page 14 page 14 51 . Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Replace the bobbin. The thread is tangled. The bobbin case is scratched. The upper thread breaks. Bobbin is set incorrectly.You have not attached the pressersion is incorrect. Replace the presser foot. Wind the bobbin thread properly. Correctly install the bobbin thread. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Insert the needle properly. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. The upper thread is too tight. or has a burr on it.Replace the needle plate. thread and needle. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. Remove the tangled thread and clean the shuttle race. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. The thread is tangled on the wrong side of the fabric. Reference page 20 page 20 – The area around the hole in the nee. The lower thread is tangled or breaks. Wind the bobbin thread properly. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. authorised service center. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. The upper thread was not threaded correctly. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. The thread tension is incorrect.

The sewing light bulb does not come on. You have not used the right combination of fabric. You have not inserted the needle properly. Remove the tangle thread. You have not used bobbin that has been designed for this machine. The needle is bent or blunt. thread and needle. If you are sewing thin fabric. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew. If you use it more often. 47 page 46 page 16 – The fabric is wrinkled. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Correct the upper threading. Change the sewing light bulb. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. The thread tension is incorrect. 40. in the shuttle race. The stitch is not sewn correctly. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. The thread is tangled. The thread is tangled. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Insert the needle properly. 38. Fit the spool properly. clean the shuttle race. page 45 52 . for example. Clean the shuttle race. How to put it right Thread the upper thread and wind the bobbin thread properly. You have not fitted the spool properly. Stitches are skipped. Sew with stabiliser material under the fabric. The needle is bent or blunt. page 33. in the shuttle race. The sewing lamp is damaged. page 45 The presser foot that you are using is not correct for the type of stitch. 36. Replace the needle. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. The thread tension is incorrect. 16 – page 19 page 20 page 31 page 28 page 16 page 19 page 20 page 46. Replace the needle.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Possible cause You have not threaded the upper thread properly or fitted the bobbin properly. for example. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Dust has built up in the feed dogs or in the shuttle race. There is a highpitched noise while sewing. page 12 Insufficient oiling. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. 41 page 28 page 46 page 19 page 46 The fabric does not feed. clean the shuttle race. The bobbin case is scratched. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. thread and needle. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Remove the tangle thread. Correct the upper threading. Dust has accumulated under the needle plate or in the shuttle race. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Replace the bobbin case. Remove the needle plate cover and clean the plate and the shuttle race. Reference page 14. Make sure to oil the machine once a week if you use it more than an hour a day. oil every day. the stitch is too thick. thread and needle.

..........................................................................................................................................................31 thread cutter ................................... 41 N needle ........................................... 30 troubleshooting ................... 21..................... 40 G gathering ........................ 47 O oiling .................................................................................. 32................................................................10 monogramming ............................ 16 pre-tension disk ........................................................................................ needles and threads ........................................................... 50 twin needle ...............................................35 E embroidering ....................... 41 S satin stitching ....36 buttonhole sewing ...47 shuttle race cleaning ......... 29....................................................27 free-arm style . 46 D darning ..........8......................................................45 overcasting stitches .......16 C cleaning ................... 14 bobbin winder ...................................................................32 seam ripper ........................................ 28 trial sewing .....................................8..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................INDEX A accessories ..........6 main power switch ................................................................................................................... 7.................................................................................... 19 repacking .......................... 19 needle bar thread guide .................................. 12 button sewing ........................ 47 flat bed attachment ................... 22 upper tension-control dial .............................. 14 bobbin case ..................................................... 43 Z H handwheel ...................................................38 buttonhole foot ....... 31 F U W winding the bobbin .................................................................................................................... 24 presser foot lever ...........30........................................................................................40 zipper insertion ............33 blind hem stitching . 12 P R relative chart of sewing fabrics................. 23 presser foot holder ................................................................................. 48 upper threading ........... 31 B basic stitching ........................................................................................................................ 22 feed dogs ................................32 pattern selection dial .............................. 7 J joining ........................28................33 stretch blind stitch ............................................. 31 foot controller ............................... 41 extra spool pin ............. 44 M main parts ...................................... 28 53 ..8 needle clamp screw ...........................................36 T thick fabrics ............................................. 16 straight stitch .......................................................................................................................................................................... 21 needle plate .......................................................................................33 stretch fabrics ....................................................... 16 thread tension ..8.............................................. 8......47 spool pin .........................................19 shell tuck stitching ...... 26 presser foot ........8.......................................................................12 zigzag stitches ...........................................12.................................................................................. 8.........................................................................33 bobbin ..........................................................................................................................................9 appliqués ........................................................................................................................................30 thin fabrics ...........................................6.................................................... 37 sewing machine needles ......... 41 zipper foot .................................................. 48 reverse sewing lever ..................................... 28 thread guide ............43 shuttle hook removal ................................................................

English XE4592-001 Printed in China .

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