KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

SEWING BASICS

UTILITY STITCHES

APPENDIX

Basic Sewing and Mending Machine

Operation Manual
Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).

“IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”
When using the sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: “Read all instructions before using.”

DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. 2. Always unplug before changing the light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts.

WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons: 1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near children. 2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4. Never operate the sewing machine with any of the air openings blocked. Keep the ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth. 5. Never drop or insert any object into any openings. 6. Do not use this machine outdoors. 7. Do not operate this machine where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. 8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “O” position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet. 9. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord. To unplug, grasp the plug and pull, not the cord. 10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle. 11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 12. Do not use a bent needle. 13. Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break. 14. Switch the sewing machine to the off, symbol “O” position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin, or changing the presser foot. 15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user service adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual. 16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or impaired persons without supervision. 17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this sewing machine. “SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS” “This sewing machine is intended for household use.”

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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.

IMPORTANT
If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug. NOTE The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted. WARNING DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW. The wires in this main lead are coloured in accordance with the following code: Blue Brown Neutral Live

As the colours of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows. The wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘N’ or coloured black or blue. The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘L’ or coloured red or brown.

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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE
To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine.

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation 1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the handwheel, thread takeup lever, needle, or other moving parts. 2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when: • Operation is completed • Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts • A power failure occurs during use • Maintaining the machine • Leaving the machine unattended 3. Do not store anything on the foot controller. 4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords. For a longer service life 1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects. 2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used. 3. Do not drop or hit the machine. 4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation. For repair or adjustment In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer. For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

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....................................................................................................................................................25 SEWING .........................................6 NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ....................... 30 Sewing thin fabrics ............ 28 Thread tension ............................................................................................................................................................................... 27 Sewing in reverse .............................................................................................................................................9 USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .................................................................................................................................................................................23 Replacing the presser foot .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 14 Upper threading ............................................................. 8 Flat bed attachment ................................................................................... 30 Trial sewing ..... 31 3....................................................................................................................................... 6 The main parts .................................................................... 24 2........... 16 Drawing up the lower thread ...................................................... 12 Lower threading .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 30 Changing the sewing direction ......................................... 19 Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types .................................................................................................................................... 26 Starting to sew ...................................................... 25 Selecting stitching ....................................................................................... 20 Sewing with a twin needle (Option) ................................................................................................... 8 ACCESSORIES ............................................................................ 10 Foot controller ................................................................ 30 Sewing curves ....................................................................................................................................... 23 Removing the presser foot holder ....................................................................36 Making the buttonhole ..........25 General sewing procedure ................. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 33 Blind hem stitching ................................................ 10 Power supply ..................................................................................................................32 USEFUL STITCHES .................................................................................................................... 35 BUTTONHOLE SEWING ............................................... 32 Zigzag stitches .................................................................................. 6 Needle and presser foot section ........................................................................................................................................—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— CONTENTS 1.................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 32 Basic stitching ....................................................................................................................................12 Winding the bobbin ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 20 Replacing the needle .................................................................... 38 Button sewing .......................................................... 31 Sewing stretch fabrics ................................ 36 Adjusting buitching stitching ................ 11 Steadying the machine ................................................... 18 REPLACING THE NEEDLE ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................19 Needle precautions ........................... UTILITY STITCHES ....................................................................10 Power supply precautions .................................................................. 28 USEFUL SEWING TIPS ................... 11 THREADING THE MACHINE ........................... 38 4 .................................................................................. 30 Sewing thick fabrics ................................................................................................................................. 33 Darning ............................................................................ 19 Checking the needle .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... SEWING BASICS ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 22 REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 31 Using a free-arm style ......

.................................................................................................... 44 4............................................................................................................................................................................................45 MAINTENANCE ...................................................................................... 48 Bobbin case tension adjustment ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................43 Gathering ......................... 43 Elastic stitching ...................................................... 43 Shell tuck stitching ........................................................... MONOGRAMMING AND EMBROIDERING ............... 46 Cleaning the feed dogs ............... 48 TROUBLESHOOTING .................................................................................................... APPENDIX ....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 47 Repacking the machine ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 53 5 ......................................................................................................................................................................50 INDEX ..................... 45 Cleaning the machine surface .................................................................... 41 DECORATIVE STITCHING .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 41 Appliqués .... 46 Cleaning the shuttle race ................................................................. 40 APPLIQUÉ........................ZIPPER INSERTION ..............................45 Oiling ......................................................................... 45 Changing the bulb ........................................................................................................................................................................................................ 41 Monogramming and embroidering ................................

6 .KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— 1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS The main parts a Buttonhole fine-adjusting screw (page 38) Turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw to adjust buttonhole stitching when it is not uniform. b Pattern selection dial (page 26) Turn the pattern selection dial to select the number of the stitch that you want to use. e Flat bed attachment with accessory storage (page 8 and 31) f Reverse sewing lever (page 28) Press and hold down the reverse sewing lever to sew in the opposite direction. c Thread take-up lever (page 16) d Upper tension control dial (page 28) This controls the tension of the upper thread.

n Presser foot lever (page 16) Use the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.K. l Foot controller jack/jack Insert the foot controller plug into the foot controller jack. XC7438-321 (220/240V Area). i Bobbin winder (page 12) The bobbin winder winds thread onto the bobbin for use as the lower thread. XD0852-021 (Korea).). which also supplies power to this machine. XC7456-321 (U. o Bobbin winding pre-tension disc/thread guide (page 12 and 16) The thread guide/bobbin winding pre-tension disc is used when winding the thread onto the bobbin and threading the machine. XE0629-001 (Australia. XC7359-021 (110/120V Area).1 g Built-in handle h Spool pin (page 12 and 16) The spool pin holds the spool of thread. New Zealand). j Handwheel Use the handwheel to manually raise and lower the needle. p Foot controller (page 11) Use the foot controller to control the sewing speed and to start and stop sewing. m Thread cutter (page 28) Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. XC7438-321 (Russia) 7 . k Main power/sewing light switch (page 10) Use this switch to turn on and off the main power and sewing light. Part code.

and then pull the flat bed Lift the bottom of the flat bed attachment attachment out to remove it. 8 . c Presser foot (Zigzag) The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. a toward you.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Needle and presser foot section Flat bed attachment The accessories are stored in a compartment inside the flat bed attachment. d Feed dogs The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction. e Needle plate The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams. a Flat bed attachment b Storage compartment a Presser foot holder assembly The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder assembly. and then store the bag inside the compartment. they may fall out. Note ● Put the accessories in the bag. and be lost or damaged. h Bobbin case i Needle j Needle bar thread guide k Needle clamp screw Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place. If the accessories are not in a bag. f Shuttle hook g Shuttle cover Open the shuttle cover to set the bobbin. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching. b Presser foot screw Use the presser foot screw to hold the presser foot holder assembly in place.

5. 1 Note (For U.S. No. (Part number: 138135-122) 1. 6. ● The screw of the presser foot holder is available through your authorized dealer.A. We have designed these accessories to help you be able to carry out most sewing tasks. N This foot controller can be used on the following machine models: LS-2220/2720/1520/2125/2125i. only) ● Foot controller: Model KD-1902. / Canada Others X59369-321 X59370-021 XE2137-001 XA3442-121 No. 75/11 1 needle 90/14 1 needle 100/16 1 needle 7.A. 4. / Canada Others XA5539-151 SA156 129583-021 X55467-021 130920-021 9 .S. 5 6 7 8 Part Name Bobbin (3) Needle set Screwdriver Extra spool pin Part Code U. 1 2 3 4 Part Name Buttonhole foot “A” Zipper foot “I” Button sewing foot “M” Darning plate Part Code U.A. (Part code: 132730-122) ● A replacement for the factory-installed presser foot is available through your authorized dealer. 3. 2.S.ACCESSORIES The following accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. 8.

take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use. Then. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. ● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances: • When you are away from the machine • After using the machine • When the power fails during use • When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection • During electrical storms CAUTION ● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. located supply plug on the cord. insert the power supply plug into a wall outlet. damaged. WARNING ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire. modified. twisted. ● When unplugging the machine. Electric shock may result. Fire or electric shock may result. a Foot controller plug 10 . ● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. into the jack on the machine. forcefully bent. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. The sewing lamp comes on when the machine is turned on. If the cord or plug is damaged. or lead to fire or electric shock. electric shock. ● Do not touch the plug with wet hands.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. or damage to the machine. or bundled. always turn off the main power first. pulled. Insert the foot controller plug. ● Do not allow the power cord to be cut. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord. Power supply a between the foot controller and the power b Set the main power switch to “I”. Do not subject the cord to heat. Otherwise a fire may result.

When restarting the sewing machine. CAUTION ● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to build up on the foot controller. contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Note ● If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated.S. reverse the plug.A. follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock. set the main power ”. After oiling. the machine will run at a low speed. be sure to wipe off any excess oil. The sewing lamp goes off when the machine is turned off. (For U. this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. When you press harder.c switch to “ To turn off the machine. 11 . When you press the foot controller down lightly. 1 Slower Faster You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot controller when the machine is not in use. turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. ● A new sewing machine or one that has not been in use for a long period of time should be oiled as described on page 45. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet. the machine’s speed will increase. only) ● This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). turn the rubber cushion in the right-front corner of the base plate to adjust its height until the sewing machine is stable. When you take your foot off the foot controller. Steadying the machine If the sewing machine has been placed on an uneven surface. be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started. Foot controller CAUTION ● When connecting the foot controller. Do not modify the plug in any way. If it still does not fit. the machine will stop. To reduce the risk of electric shock.

Actual size 11. ● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. a Pre-tension disk b Bobbin winder shaft c Bobbin CAUTION ● Only use bobbins (part code: SA156. Pull up the spool pin as far as possible. the thread may tangle on the spool pin. the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— THREADING THE MACHINE Winding the bobbin This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin. Pass the end of the thread through the hole on a Spring on the shaft b Groove of the bobbin e Turn on the sewing machine. c the bobbin from the inside of the bobbin. Using other bobbins may cause damage to the machine.5 mm (7/16 inches) This model a then put a spool of thread on this pin. by hand. SFB: XA5539-151) that have been designed for this sewing machine. b Other models d and slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. 12 . and Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft Pass the thread around the pre-tension disk. 1 Pulling it in as far as possible. SFB: XA5539-151). Turn the bobbin clockwise. If you use bobbins from other models. CAUTION ● If the spool of thread is not in the right place. until the spring on the shaft slides into the groove of the bobbin.

i spinning slowly. If you do not cut the thread completely. h 1 a Wound evenly b Wound poorly 2 Press the foot controller to start. CAUTION ● Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. ● The needle bar does not move when you slide the bobbin winding shaft to the right. this is not a malfunction. slide the bobbin winder shaft around the bobbin a few times. breaking the needle and resulting in injury. take your foot off the foot When the bobbin seems full and begins controller. Memo ● When the sewing machine is started or the handwheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin. when the thread runs low it may tangle around the bobbin and cause the needle to break. Then stop the machine.f press the foot controller to wind the thread While holding the end of the thread. the machine will make a clicking sound. 1 CAUTION g Trim the excess thread above the bobbin. and the bobbin is wound. Cut the thread. ● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen. 13 . gently j to the left and remove the bobbin.

If you accidentally step on the foot controller and the machine starts to sew. you could be injured. CAUTION ● Make sure you turn the power off while threading the machine. If bobbins from other models are used. it may cause the thread tension to be incorrect or break the needle. 14 . the machine will not operate correctly. ● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine.5 mm (7/16 inches) This model Other models a Bobbin case latch d from a full bobbin.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— b attachment at the front of the machine. SFB: XA5539-151). a the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) Raise the needle to its highest position by turning and raise the presser foot lever. Open the shuttle cover behind the flat bed Lower threading Install the bobbin wound with thread. a Flat bed attachment b Shuttle cover 1 a Wound evenly b Wound poorly 2 c toward you and pulling it out from the shuttle Remove the bobbin case by pulling its latch race. breaking the needle and resulting in injury. and then insert the bobbin Unwind about 10 cm (4 inches) of thread into the bobbin case. CAUTION ● Winding the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen. • Only use bobbins that were designed to be used with this machine. CAUTION ● Make sure you set the bobbin so the thread unrolls in the right direction. If the thread unrolls in the wrong direction. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156. Actual size 11.

down the delivery eye under the tension spring. fully insert release the latch. 1 a Tension spring f the bobbin case into the shuttle race. as shown below. until it enters Pull the trailing thread through the slot. If it is incorrectly installed. and then Hold the bobbin case by the latch. it will fall out from the shuttle when the machine starts to sew.e and to the left. CAUTION ● Make sure that the bobbin case is properly placed back into the machine. a Bobbin case finger b Notch g Close the shuttle cover. 15 . • Make sure the bobbin case finger fits into the notch at the top of the shuttle race.

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Upper threading Set the upper thread and thread the needle. Pull up the spool pin as far as possible. Raise the needle by turning the handwheel b toward you (counterclockwise) to raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position. the thread could tangle and break the needle. a b c d Spool pin Thread guide (rear) Thread guide (front) Thread take-up lever CAUTION ● Make sure you thread the machine properly. d guides: the rear one first. Otherwise. then the front one. Raise the presser foot using the presser foot c then put a spool of thread on this pin. the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break. a Presser foot lever e tension control dial from the right to the left Feed the upper thread through both thread Pull the thread down and around the upper so the thread picks up the thread check spring. a lever. Be sure to turn the handwheel before threading the sewing machine. or is set incorrectly. • If the needle is not correctly raised. and CAUTION ● If the spool of thread is in the wrong place. a Upper tension control dial b Thread check spring 16 . the sewing machine can not be threaded.

f pull it between the tension discs. ● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may cause sewing problems. h guide above the needle. Make sure you raise the presser foot lever and the thread take-up lever before you feed the upper thread. Put the thread behind the needle bar thread The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand. 1 g lever from right to left. Guide the thread through the thread take-up a Needle bar thread guide i out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread. 17 . Thread the needle from front to back and pull a Thread take-up lever a 5 cm (2 inches) Note ● If the thread take-up lever is lowered. While holding the thread as shown below. the upper thread cannot be wrapped around the thread take-up lever. then feeding the thread with your right hand.

Pull on the upper thread to draw up the lower a Upper thread b Lower thread 18 . d threads and pull them toward the back of the Pull out about 15 cm (6 inches) of both machine under the presser foot.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Drawing up the lower thread a Lightly hold the end of the upper thread. a Upper thread b Lower thread c thread. a Upper thread b raise the needle to its highest position by While holding the end of the upper thread. turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise).

Velvet. Selecting the needle depending on the thread and fabric types The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Thin linen. Taffeta. Sewing fabrics Very thin Fine tricot. Corduroy. Satin. your machine. Linen. Fine lace. Gingham. possibly resulting in injury. Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Chiffon 65/9 Needle sizes Thread sizes Cotton: 80 Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Fine Mercerized Cotton Cotton: 60-80 Silk: “A” Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Mercerized 50 Cotton: 50-60 Silk: “A” Synthetic/ Polyester Long Fiber Mercerized 50-60 Cotton: 40-50 Mercerized Heavy Duty Polyester Long Fiber Cotton Wrapped Polyester Polyester Long Fiber Lightweight Voile. Use the same size thread for the upper (spool) and lower (bobbin) threads. Organza. Pique. the thicker the thread. regardless of the fabric being sewn. Batiste Cotton. Muslin Denim. Tricot Memo ● The smaller the thread number. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew. 19 . Silk. ● Never use bent needles. Percale. Poplin. 90/14 (Ball point) Jersey. Silk. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below. 1 CAUTION ● Only use home sewing machine needles.REPLACING THE NEEDLE This section provides information on sewing machine needles. Suitings. 75/11 Synthetics. 90/14 (Supplied with Lightweight wool. Canvas. ● Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur. Double knit. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous. and the larger the needle number. Duck 100/16 Medium weight Heavyweight Knits Single knit. ● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads. Gabardine. Tweed. ● A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine. the thicker the needle. Bent needles can easily break.) Fine corduroy.

a Flat side b Needle type marking ■ Correct needle c Lower the presser foot lever. thread and needle combinations are shown in the table on the previous page. Checking the needle Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle” . Do not use a bent needle. b turning the handwheel toward you 1 2 Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). In addition. otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. thread and needle is not correct. 1 a Flat surface ■ Incorrect needle If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even. a Turn off the sewing machine. CAUTION ● Before replacing the needle. Before using the needle. the needle is bent. the needle may bend or break.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION ● The appropriate fabric. particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11). the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches. If the combination of the fabric. place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even. Replacing the needle Replace the needle as described below. a Presser foot lever 1 a Flat surface 20 . be sure to turn off the sewing machine.

otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.d use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp Hold the needle with your left hand. a Needle stopper a b c d Needle bar Needle holder Needle clamp screw Align 21 . Therefore. do not loosen the needle clamp screw too much. clamp screw by turning it clockwise. otherwise the needle may break or damage may result. follow the procedure below to attach it to the needle bar. e rear of the machine. f use the screwdriver to tighten the needle While holding the needle with your left hand. and then Align the bottom edge of the needle holder tighten the needle clamp screw. a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw • Do not apply strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw. a the needle clamp onto the needle bar so that As seen from the front of the machine.) 1 Install the twin needle in the same way. Note ● The needle can be removed by simply loosening the needle clamp screw about one turn. insert the needle until it With the flat side of the needle toward the touches the needle stopper. slide the needle clamp screw is on the right side and the needle bar thread guide is at the bottom. ■ Installing the needle clamp If the needle clamp is removed. (If the needle clamp screw is loosened too much. a Needle clamp screw b Needle bar thread guide c Needle bar b with the end of the needle bar. and then screw counterclockwise to remove the needle. the needle clamp (which holds the needle) may fall off. CAUTION ● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver.

the machine. f Do not pass the thread behind the needle bar Thread the right needle from front to back. e the machine to the thread take-up lever. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered. thread guide. ● Do not sew with bent needles. See page 16 for more details. ● When changing the sewing direction. b Put the extra spool pin in the hole on the top of Attach the extra spool pin. and damage the machine. single needle (page 20). See page 16 for more details. be sure to select an appropriate stitch (straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2). Put the second spool of thread onto the extra spool pin. the needle may bend or break. You can use the same color or two different colors of thread for making decorative stitches. d Thread the left needle from front to back. Use the thread from the second spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the thread take-up lever is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). If the needle hits the presser foot. c Needle bar thread guide a First spool b Second spool c the machine to the needle bar thread guide. the needle may bend or break. ■ Twin needle threading a Attach the twin needle in the same way as a Attach the twin needle. Use the thread from the first spool to thread The path for threading the machine to the needle bar thread guide is the same as for normally threading the machine (for a single needle). ● Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. CAUTION ● Use only twin needles that have been made for this machine (part code: X57521-021). 22 . b Right needle thread passes in front of the needle bar thread guide. The needle could break and injure you.KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing with a twin needle (Option) We have designed your machine so you can sew with the optional twin needle and two top threads. Other needles could break. a Left needle thread passes through the needle bar thread guide. ● When using the twin needle. be sure to raise the needle before turning the fabric. The stitches available for twin-needle sewing are straight stitches 6 through 10 and zigzag stitch 2.

Using other any presser feet may cause an accident or injury. c Raise the presser foot lever. 23 .) is positioned to be read. etc. If you leave the power on and step on the controller. d presser foot holder to release the presser foot. ● Only use presser feet that have been designed to be used with this machine. Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A. a Presser foot lever a Presser foot lever The presser foot is attached. the machine will start and you may be injured. be sure to turn off the sewing machine. I.REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT CAUTION ● Always turn off the power before you change the presser foot. a turn it off. If you use the wrong presser foot. otherwise injuries may occur if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. 1 Replacing the presser foot Replace the presser foot as described below. Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). ● Always use the correct presser foot for the stitch pattern you have chosen. a Black button b Presser foot holder CAUTION ● Before replacing the presser foot. the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break. b turning the handwheel toward you e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the Place a different presser foot below the holder shank in the holder. a Presser foot holder b Shank c Pin f presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot holder. Press the black button at the back of the If the sewing machine has been turned on. and may cause injury.

Align the presser foot holder with the lower- Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder. such as the quilting foot. Raise the presser foot lever to check that the ■ Attaching the presser foot holder a left side of the presser bar. and then tighten the screw Hold the presser foot holder in place with using the screwdriver in your left hand. refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 23).KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————————————————————————————— g presser foot is securely attached. a Presser foot holder b Presser bar b your right hand. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder. a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw 24 . Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw Note ● If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed. • For details. the thread tension will be incorrect. b holder screw. ■ Removing the presser foot holder a Remove the presser foot.

otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break. 2 CAUTION ● While the machine is in operation. 2 Select the stitch. Turn on the sewing machine. In addition. and then start sewing. ● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing. Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. cut the threads. ● Never use bent needles.2 SEWING BASICS SEWING Basic sewing operations are described below. read the following precautions. 4 Start sewing. otherwise injuries may occur. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). pay special attention to the needle location. 25 . Bent needles can easily break. possibly resulting in injuries. For details on turning on the machine. For details on starting to sew. refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 23). 1 Turn on the machine. Before operating the sewing machine. ● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins. otherwise the needle may break or bend. 3 Attach the presser foot. When sewing is finished. General sewing procedure Follow the basic procedures below to sew. keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel. Position the fabric. For details on replacing the presser foot. For details on selecting a stitch. refer to “Power supply” (page 10). refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.

aPattern selection dial Number on dial Stitch name 4-step automatic buttonhole b Pattern ac d Page 1 36 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 32.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting stitching Turning the stitch selection dial in either direction. 41 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Zigzag (satin) stitch 6 Straight stitch (Center needle position) Select the desired length. 33. select the desired stitch. 35. 43 7 Straight stitch (Left needle position) Stretch blind Stitch 33 8 33 9 Shell tuck stitch 43 10 Elastic stitch 44 26 . 40.

c Raise the presser foot lever. f Lower the presser foot lever. and then Place the fabric under the presser foot. i turning the handwheel toward you a 5 cm (2 inches) j Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). The machine starts sewing. a Presser foot lever g Slowly press down on the foot controller. 27 . a Presser foot lever d the thread under the presser foot.Starting to sew a e fabric with your left hand. toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching. 2 b turning the handwheel toward you Raise the needle to its highest position by (counterclockwise). pass pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine. turn the handwheel While holding the end of the thread and the Turn on the sewing machine. Raise the presser foot lever. The machine stops sewing. h Take your foot off the foot controller.

cutter on the back of the presser foot bar to cut them. In this case. Memo ● Before beginning to change tension adjustments make sure the upper thread and bobbin are inserted correctly. ● We recommend you do a test sample on a scrap of fabric before you start to sew. a Thread cutter Sewing in reverse Reverse sewing is used to lock the threads at the end of the seam or wherever reinforcement is needed. You may need to adjust it when you change fabric or thread. 28 . the upper thread may be too tight. refer to “Lower threading” (page 14) and reinsert the bobbin. a while sewing. ■ Correct tension Correct tension is important as too much or too little tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers on your fabric. release the reverse sewing 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 4 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. b lever. To sew forward. 1 2 3 a b c d Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Press and hold down the reverse sewing lever 4 ■ Upper tension is too tight Loops appear on the surface of the fabric. Thread tension The thread tension will affect the quality of your stitches. Note ● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly inserted.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— k and then pass the threads through the thread Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine.

■ Upper tension is too loose Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric. no adjustment is needed. In this case. If the problem persists. Be sure not to turn the screw more than one full turn. 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 1 5 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on wrong side of fabric 4 2 2 3 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. 4 Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a higher number. increase the tension in the bobbin by turning the screw clockwise with a small screwdriver. Note ● If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded. refer to “Upper threading” (page 16) and rethread. Note ● The bobbin thread tension has been adjusted at the factory for general use. the upper thread may be too loose. be sure to return the screw to its original position before the next time that the machine is used. In addition. ■ Bobbin tension is too loose Loops may appear on the surface of the fabric when sewing thin fabric with thin thread. For most sewing applications. 29 .

raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position. lower the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. and then turn the b fabric. If the fabric is turned while the needle is lowered. When the stitching reaches a corner. use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project. c sewing. CAUTION ● When using the twin needle. the needle may bend or break. Sewing thick fabrics ■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot.SEWING BASICS ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— USEFUL SEWING TIPS Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot. be sure to raise the needle before changing the sewing direction. For the trial sewing. and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch. Sewing curves Stop sewing. Raise the presser foot lever. depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn. stop the Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project. Lower the presser foot lever and continue CAUTION ● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inches) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force. Changing the sewing direction a sewing machine. Trial sewing A trial piece of fabric should be sewn since. the desired results may not be achieved. If the needle was raised. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn. select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch. 30 . the needle may bend or break. Refer to these tips when sewing your project.

and then sew without stretching the fabric. When you have finished sewing. tear off any excess paper. and then pull the flat bed attachment out to remove it. baste the pieces of fabric together. If this occurs. the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. a Basting Using a free-arm style Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas. lift the bottom of the flat bed attachment toward you.Sewing thin fabrics When sewing thin fabrics. place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. 2 a Stabilizer material or paper Sewing stretch fabrics First. a Flat bed attachment 31 . To change your machine to the free-arm style.

use straight stitches at the beginning and end of the zigzag stitch for reinforcement. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). Stitch name Application c Start sawing. Overcasting and attaching appliqués.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— 3 UTILITY STITCHES USEFUL STITCHES Zigzag stitches You can use the zigzag stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. cut the thread. Select the desired width. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). • For details. CAUTION ● Slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. • For details. They are also useful for sewing stretch materials. Memo ● When sewing with a zigzag stitch. Zigzag (satin) stitch a Select a stitch. Lower the needle into the fabric at the b beginning of the stitching. If the needle hits the presser foot. Number on dial 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Overcasting and attaching appliqués with the decorative satin stitches. d When sewing is finished. 32 . refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). the needle may bend or break. • For details.

cut the thread. c beginning of the stitching. • For details. and position) sewing gathers or darning. e When sewing is finished. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Blind hem stitching You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project. Number on dial 8 Stitch name Stretch blind Stitch Application Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics. like the hem of a pair of trousers. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). a Right side of fabric b Bottom side b hem. d Lower the needle into the fabric at the Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the Start sewing. • For details. without the stitch showing.Basic stitching Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. basic (Center needle stitching. Attaching Straight stitch zippers. refer to “Starting to sew” (page 27). a b Baste or pin together the fabric pieces. Two stitches are available for basic stitching. Straight stitch (Left needle position) Basic stitching. <Seen from the side> a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric 33 . sewing gathers or pintucks. • For details. etc. 3 Select a stitch. etc. 7 a Reverse the skirt or pants. and press.

refer to“Using a free-arm style” (page 31). g free-arm sewing possible. and position the <Seen from the side> <Seen from the side> a b c d e d Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting stitching 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Wrong side of fabric b Basting c Edge of fabric f Select the stretch blind stitch (8). make sure that the fabric feeds correctly. Fold back the fabric inside along the basting. Unfold the edge of fabric. h arm.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— c (3/16 inches) from the edge of the fabric. Remove the flat bed attachment and make • For details on free-arm sewing. <Seen from the side> a b c d Wrong side of fabric Edge of fabric Basting 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Arm 34 . Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the and then start sewing. e fabric with the wrong side facing up. and Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm then baste it.

c presser foot together with a fabric underlay a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric d with your hands. etc. For invisible stitching.i catches the fold of the hem. e filled with parallel stitching. Place the fabric to be darned under the for reinforcement. and then remove both the aNeedle bNeedle drop point cFold of hem dWrong side of fabric j Place the darning plate on the needle plate as presser foot and presser foot holder assembly. and then lower Position the fabric so that the needle slightly the presser foot lever. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Attaching Straight stitch zippers. basic (Center needle stitching. Stop sewing when the portion to be darned is 35 . 3 Sew along the fold of the hem. Remove the basting stitching and turn the k fabric right side up. make sure that both threads are the same color as the fabric. b Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). a shown below. and position) sewing gathers or darning. Darning Reinforce points that will be subject to strain. alternately drawing the Start sewing while gently moving the fabric fabric away and pulling it toward you.

Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. Step Step a (Front end of button hole) Step b (Left side) Sewn portion Use chalk to mark the position and length of 1 Step c (Back end of button hole) a Marks on fabric Step d (Right side) b outside frame back until the sliding insert Attach buttonhole foot “A” and push the reaches the front of the outside frame. Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back. ● When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics. as shown below. a b c d Presser foot scale Pin Marks on buttonhole foot 5 mm (3/16 inches) a Mark on fabric b Red marks on the sliding insert e Start sewing. check the stitch length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric. which is used for sewing buttonholes. Number on dial 1 4-step automatic buttonhole Buttonholes on medium weight fabrics. a the buttonhole on the fabric. Sew 5 to 6 stitches. place stabilizer material under the fablic. 36 .UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— BUTTONHOLE SEWING Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. are indicated below. d that the middle of the front chalk line is Position the fabric under the presser foot so directly in the center of the presser foot and aligned with the two red lines on the insert. Select stitch “a” of the 4-step automatic Making the buttonhole The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”. a Reinforcement stitching c buttonhole (1). Stitch name Application Memo ● Before sewing buttonholes.

o fabric. select the straight stitch (6 through 10) with the desired length. Sew the right side of the stitching sewn in step e. 1 a Seam ripper b Pin Select stitch “c” (same as “a”) of the 4-step j automatic buttonhole (1). Sew 5 to 6 stitches. do not place your hands in the cutting path. and then raise the needle by Stop sewing when the needle is at the left side turning the handwheel toward you. and then sew the length of the h chalk line. Raise the presser foot lever.f of the stitching. k CAUTION ● When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper. and then raise the needle Stop sewing when the needle is at the right by turning the handwheel toward you. g buttonhole (1). turn the fabric 90 degrees counterclockwise. Select stitch “b” of the 4-step automatic 2 Start sewing. l side of the stitching. m buttonhole (1). otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips. i side of the stitching. and then sew to the edge of the front bar tack. 3 Start sewing. p stitching to prevent the stitching from being Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole cut. and cut the thread. For reinforcement. Select stitch “d” of the 4-step automatic n buttonhole until the needle reaches the Start sewing. and then raise the needle Stop sewing when the needle is at the right by turning the handwheel toward you. and then use a seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole. remove the 37 . Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended.

Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached. 3 or 4) according to the following table. and then sew them in the same way. Place a button between the presser foot and • When attaching four-hole buttons. and then select the Measure the distance between the holes in the appropriate zigzag stitch (2. first sew the two holes closest to you. the stitching can adjusted with the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw. 38 . Button sewing Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Place the darning plate on the needle plate as ■ If the right side is too tight compared to the left side Use the enclosed large screwdriver to turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw in the + direction. a button to be attached. slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine. Then.2 mm (1/8 inches) 4. d the fabric.6 mm (1/16 inches) 3. Number of dial 2 3 4 Attach the button sewing foot “M”.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting buitching stitching If the stitching on the two sides of the buttonhole is not uniform. c shown below. a Buttonhole fine-adjusting screw Distance between holes 1.8 mm (3/16 inches) b ■ If the right side is too loose compared to the left side Use the enclosed large screwdriver to turn the buttonhole fine-adjusting screw in the direction.

h stitching to the wrong side of the fabric. Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching. otherwise the needle may bend or break.e (counterclockwise) to check that the needle Turn the handwheel toward you correctly goes into the two holes of the button. f 3 Start sewing. leaving a length of 15 cm (6 inches). If the needle hits the button. and Pull the upper thread at the end of the then tie it with the bobbin thread. g and then cut the upper and lower threads. be sure that the needle does not touch the button. return to step a. Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine. • After sewing for about 10 seconds at a low speed. 39 . press and hold down the reverse sewing lever to sew a few reinforcement stitches. CAUTION ● When sewing.

When sewing the right side of the zipper. attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot. e the foot by pressing the button located at the To sew the opposite side of the zipper. and position) sewing gathers or darning.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— ZIPPER INSERTION You can use the zipper foot “I” to sew different types of zippers. fit the zipper foot on the other side of the zipper and continue sewing using the other side notch. If the needle hits the zipper. 40 . Fold the edge of the fabric 2 cm (3/4 inches) c and place the zipper under the folded section. b left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the shank. Lower the needle into the notch located either on the left or right side of the zipper foot. When sewing the left side of the zipper. Attaching Straight stitch zippers. CAUTION ● Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the needle does not hit the presser foot before you start sewing. release back of the presser foot. CAUTION ● Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper during sewing. basic (Center needle stitching. The needle should be Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the positioned on the zipper side of the foot for best results. a Zipper foot “I” b Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper c Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper a Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). You may also be injured. etc. the needle will hit the presser foot and break the needle. Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application d top on both sides. attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. and can easily position it to the right or left side of the needle. If you choose a different stitch. the needle may break and you may be injured.

Zigzag (satin) stitch Appliqués You can create an appliqué by cutting a different piece of fabric into a shape and using it as a decoration. a b CAUTION ● Be careful that the needle does not hit a pin during sewing. Overcasting and attaching appliqués. as the needle can break. Select the desired width. Monogramming and embroidering a shown below. Number on dial 2 Zigzag stitch 3 Zigzag stitch 4 Zigzag stitch 5 Overcasting and attaching appliqués with the decorative satin stitches. and then remove both the Place the darning plate on the needle plate as presser foot and presser foot holder assembly. d stitching. monogramming and embroidering. Stitch name Application c Carefully sew around the edge of the design. 3 Memo ● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching. if necessary. You may also be injured. MONOGRAMMING AND EMBROIDERING Zigzag stitches can be used for sewing appliqués. Cut away any fabric that is left outside the Select a stitch.APPLIQUÉ. Baste the cut design to the fabric. 41 . e Remove the basting.

i and sew a few stitches for reinforcing. especially needles. the stitches are shorter. and support the outside of the hoop with your little fingers. e the presser bar. sew to completely fill in the design with stitches by alternately sewing from the outline of the design to the inside and from the inside to the outline. Place the project under the needle and lower f at the starting position by turning the Draw up the lower thread through the project handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). fabric with the middle and third fingers. d the surface of the fabric facing up inside the Put the fabric in the embroidery hoop with well. 42 . c design (for embroidering) on the surface of Draw the lettering (for monogramming) or the fabric. CAUTION ● Be sure to keep your fingers away from moving parts. g forefingers of both hands while pressing the Grip the hoop with the thumbs and Memo ● Be sure to keep the stitches close together. ■ Monogramming Sew the lettering at a constant speed by moving the hoop slowly. Select the desired length for straight stitch (6) Memo ● When the hoop is moved quickly. Then. the stitches are longer. and then sew a few stitches to reinforce the stitching. h Start sewing. ■ Embroidering Sew along the outline of the design by moving the hoop slowly. When the hoop is moved slowly.UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— b Select a stitch.

and increase • For details. a Attaching zippers. Fold the fabric along the bias. (Center needle and sewing position) gathers or darning. Stitch name Application a Select the desired length for straight stitch (6). Sew a single or multiple parallel rows of • Do not sew reverse stitches or cut the thread. etc. refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 26). and then iron the tucks 43 . They are used to decorate trims. d Smooth the gathers by ironing them.DECORATIVE STITCHING Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine. Gathering Number on dial 6 Stitch name Application Shell tuck stitching Number on dial 9 Shell tuck stitch Shell tuck stitching The gathers that look like shells are called “shell tucks”. Select the shell tuck stitch (9). Loosen the tension of the upper thread (to 3 b about 2). • For details. Sew while making sure that the needle drops d down to one side. Straight stitch basic stitching. c slightly off the edge of the fabric. the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics. b the thread tension. Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers. Unfold the fabric. refer to “Thread tension” (page 28). c stitches.

sewing elastic or joining fabric. ■ Mending Place the reinforcement fabric under the tear to be mended. and then sew over the tear. Then. start sewing the edges of the two fabrics together. and then place them under the presser foot with the fabric edges under the center of the presser foot. 44 .UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————— Elastic stitching Number on dial 10 Stitch name Application Mending. ■ Sewing elastic tape Place the elastic tape on the fabric. Memo ● Make reinforcing reverse stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching. Select the elastic stitch (10). The elastic stitch can be used in 3 ways: mending. and then sew over the elastic tape while holding the tape both in front and behind the presser foot. ■ Joining fabric Put the edges of the two pieces of fabric together. Each is explained below. sewing Elastic stitching elastic tape or joining fabric.

● Sewing machine oil is available at your local sewing machine dealer or service center. After oiling. ● Do not apply too much oil as it may soil the thread and fabric. run the machine for a short time Memo ● Make sure to oil the machine once a week if you use it more than an hour a day. c Remove the face plate from the machine. Put 2 to 3 drops of oil at each of the points Be sure to wipe any excess oil off the machine.4 APPENDIX MAINTENANCE Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. If you use it more often. 45 . c at a fast speed without thread. a b Turn off the machine and unplug it. Oiling a Changing the bulb CAUTION Turn off the machine and unplug it. Note ● Hold the face plate securely while removing or attaching it. b indicated below. ● Unplug the power supply cord before changing the bulb. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. oil every day. 4 Loosen the face plate screw.

and then wipe the surface of the machine. Slide the latch levers out from the retaining CAUTION ● Unplug the power supply cord before cleaning the machine. Cleaning the machine surface If the surface of the machine is dirty. a Turn off the machine and unplug it. and c shuttle cover at the front of the free arm. b then remove the presser foot and the needle. a Bobbin case latch e ring to remove it. lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur.APPENDIX d ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Replace the sewing light bulb. Raise the needle and the presser foot. otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. wipe it again with a dry cloth. squeeze it out firmly. a Retaining ring b Latch lever 46 . a bulb b Loosen c Tighten e again. Remove the flat bed attachment and open the Attach the face plate and fasten the screw d toward you and pulling it out from the shuttle Remove the bobbin case by pulling its latch race. Cleaning the shuttle race CAUTION ● Be sure to unplug the machine before cleaning it. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth.

the presser foot and Cleaning the feed dogs CAUTION ● Make sure you unplug the machine before you clean it. a Retaining ring b Driver c Race body h wipe the shuttle race in order to remove any Use a cloth dampened with machine oil to lint. Otherwise. Attach the needle plate by using a coin or a Retaining ring b Hook c Latch lever 47 . c shuttle cover at the front of the free arm.f and pulling it out. j and push the latch levers back into position. f screwdriver. and Remove the flat bed attachment and open the 4 Remove the needle plate by using a coin or d screwdriver to remove the screws. a Turn off the machine and unplug it. Raise the needle and the presser foot. you may get an electric shock or be injured. e part of the feed dogs and shuttle race body. Use a brush to remove any accumulated lint driver and race body. hook. Remove the hook by grasping its center post k the needle before using the machine. b then remove the presser foot and the needle. Use a brush to clean the lint from the upper Reassemble the hook and the retaining ring. Attach the bobbin case. Clean the lint from the shuttle hook in the i same manner as described in step h. a Retaining ring b Hook c Hook center post g and thread from the retaining ring.

Note ● Remember to return the screw to its original setting before starting your next project. no adjustment is needed. When sewing with thin thread on thin fabrics. Note ● If the loops still appear on the surface of the fabric after you adjust the upper tension.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Repacking the machine Keep the carton and packing materials for future use. turn the screw clockwise. 1 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on surface of fabric 2 3 5 4 Solution Reduce the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a lower number. a Screw Bobbin case tension adjustment The bobbin thread tension has already been adjusted at the factory for general use. the bobbin thread may be too loose. the thread tension may not be adjusted adequately with the upper tension control dial. Therefore. damage may occur during shipping. 48 . IMPORTANT ● This packing material is designed to prevent damage in transit. For most sewing applications. being careful not to over-tighten the screw. adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread. When packing up the machine again. ● Save this packing material in case it is needed to transport this sewing machine. ■ Bobbin tension is too loose Loops appear on the surface of the fabric. In this case. the thread tension must be adjusted according to the procedure described below. If it is not packed properly. pack it properly as described below. After you adjust the bobbin thread. approximately 30-45 degrees to increase bobbin tension.

adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread. In this case. Note ● If the loops still appear on the wrong side of the fabric after you adjust the upper tension. After you adjust the bobbin thread. approximately 30-45 degrees to decrease bobbin tension. turn the screw counterclockwise being careful not to over-loosen the screw. 1 5 a b c d e Wrong side Surface Upper thread Lower thread Loops appear on wrong side of fabric 2 3 4 Solution Increase the tension by turning the upper tensioncontrol dial to a higher number.■ Bobbin tension is too tight Loops appear on the wrong side of the fabric. the bobbin thread may be too tight. 4 a Screw 49 .

If the problem persists. check the following possible problems before requesting service. (for example. Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw. in the shuttle race. The needle clamp screw is loose. You can solve most problems by yourself. 36. the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. If you need additional help. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly.brother. clean the shuttle race. 40. Turn on the main power switch. The needle is not appropriate for the thread you are using. Symptom Possible cause The machine is not plugged in. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched. page 16 The upper thread breaks. Loosen the upper thread tension. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. The upper thread tension is too tight. you have not fitted the spool properly. Replace the bobbin case. How to put it right Plug the machine in. Use the foot controller properly. – page 19 page 28 page 46 The upper thread tension is too tight. – – page 12 Correct the upper threading. The presser foot you are using is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you want to sew. Visit us at [http://solutions. Insert the needle properly. Remove the tangle thread.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— TROUBLESHOOTING If the machine stops operating correctly. The bobbin case is scratched. 41 page 28 – – The main power switch is turned off.com]. There are knots or tangles in the thread. The thread is tangled. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Replace the needle. authorized service center. Remove any knots or tangles. You are pulling the fabric too much. The needle breaks. Lightly guide the fabric. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. Move the bobbin winder shaft to the left. You have not inserted the needle properly.Replace the needle plate. You have not used the foot controller properly. The sewing machine does not work. The needle is bent or blunt. or the thread has come out of the guide above the needle. for example. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Loosen the upper thread tension. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to the right. Choose a needle that is appropriate for the type of stitch. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew. thread and needle. contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. The area around the hole in the nee. Reference page 10 page 10 page 13 page 11 page 20 page 21 page 20 page 19 page 35.) Replace the presser foot. 50 . 38.

Wind the bobbin thread properly. The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. Attach the presser-foot holder properly. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. The upper thread is too tight. Correct the upper threading. or has a burr on it. foot holder properly. Remove the tangled thread and clean the shuttle race.Replace the needle plate. The thread ten. Replace the presser foot. Replace the bobbin. The upper thread breaks. The bobbin case is scratched. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine.You have not attached the pressersion is incorrect. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Bobbin is set incorrectly. The lower thread is tangled or breaks. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Wind the bobbin thread properly. Insert the needle properly. You have not inserted the needle properly. Correctly install the bobbin thread. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. Bobbin is set incorrectly. thread and needle. The upper thread was not threaded correctly. The bobbin is scratched or does not turn smoothly. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. You have not wound the bobbin thread properly. Reset the bobbin thread correctly. authorised service center. The thread tension is incorrect. You have not used a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. – – page 12 page 12 – page 46 page 12 page 14 page 16 4 Correct the upper threading. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. The thread is tangled. page 16 page 12 page 19 page 24 page 28 page 12 page 14 page 14 51 .Symptom Possible cause The needle is bent or blunt. The thread is tangled on the wrong side of the fabric. Reference page 20 page 20 – The area around the hole in the nee. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Replace the bobbin case. Contact your retailer or the nearest dle plate is scratched. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorised service center. How to put it right Replace the needle.

Dust has accumulated under the needle plate or in the shuttle race. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Fit the spool properly. page 45 52 . clean the shuttle race. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. The bobbin case is scratched. Replace the bobbin case. Stitches are skipped. The thread is tangled. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. Correct the upper threading.APPENDIX ————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Possible cause You have not threaded the upper thread properly or fitted the bobbin properly. Only use a bobbin that has been designed for this machine. Replace the needle. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. Sew with stabiliser material under the fabric. The thread tension is incorrect. There is a highpitched noise while sewing. 41 page 28 page 46 page 19 page 46 The fabric does not feed. for example. oil every day. 38. thread and needle. You have not used the right combination of fabric. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. in the shuttle race. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle race. You have not used bobbin that has been designed for this machine. for example. The thread is tangled. page 33. Attach the presser foot that is correct for the type of stitch that you want to sew. Remove the needle plate cover and clean the plate and the shuttle race. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. 36. If you use it more often. Dust has built up in the feed dogs or in the shuttle race. How to put it right Thread the upper thread and wind the bobbin thread properly. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Replace the needle. thread and needle. If you are sewing thin fabric. The needle is bent or blunt. The sewing lamp is damaged. The sewing light bulb does not come on. Remove the tangle thread. 40. The needle is bent or blunt. Insert the needle properly. thread and needle. Remove the tangle thread. The thread tension is incorrect. page 12 Insufficient oiling. Clean the shuttle race. Make sure to oil the machine once a week if you use it more than an hour a day. in the shuttle race. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. clean the shuttle race. page 45 The presser foot that you are using is not correct for the type of stitch. You have not inserted the needle properly. the stitch is too thick. You have not fitted the spool properly. Correct the upper threading. 47 page 46 page 16 – The fabric is wrinkled. 16 – page 19 page 20 page 31 page 28 page 16 page 19 page 20 page 46. Change the sewing light bulb. Reference page 14. The stitch is not sewn correctly.

.. 41 extra spool pin ................................................................................................................. 24 presser foot lever ....................................................................................................... 7............................................................... 47 O oiling ............. 16 pre-tension disk ........................................................33 stretch blind stitch ............................................................... 41 zipper foot ...... 32.31 thread cutter ... 48 upper threading ..............................35 E embroidering .......................................19 shell tuck stitching .................... 37 sewing machine needles ..................................................30 thin fabrics .........................................................................8................................................................................... 26 presser foot .......................................................................................... 31 foot controller .........................................................32 seam ripper ........................................................6..27 free-arm style ......... 31 F U W winding the bobbin .........................12 zigzag stitches ......................................36 T thick fabrics ................................................. 28 thread guide .................. 19 repacking .......................................................................... 28 53 ........................................................................................................................................................ 48 reverse sewing lever ...................33 blind hem stitching .................................................................................................................................................. 50 twin needle .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 14 bobbin case ...............................8. 40 G gathering .................................................................................6 main power switch .........................................................9 appliqués ........33 bobbin ....................................................................................................................................................................47 shuttle race cleaning ............... 22 upper tension-control dial ..32 pattern selection dial ........... 31 B basic stitching ......................... 44 M main parts ............................................................................................................................................................ needles and threads ................................16 C cleaning ............ 41 N needle .......28...............................47 spool pin ....................................................................................................................... 29...............43 shuttle hook removal ......................38 buttonhole foot .................... 21...................................... 8...................... 19 needle bar thread guide .................. 7 J joining ..45 overcasting stitches .................. 16 straight stitch ..................................................12............................................................33 stretch fabrics ......................... 43 Z H handwheel ................. 8................... 47 flat bed attachment ............. 22 feed dogs .................. 21 needle plate ................. 16 thread tension ............................................................10 monogramming ...... 30 troubleshooting ................ 12 button sewing .......................................36 buttonhole sewing ..........................40 zipper insertion ............................................................................................8.............................................................................................................. 12 P R relative chart of sewing fabrics.............................................................30.................................................................................8 needle clamp screw ..................... 28 trial sewing .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 46 D darning ...... 14 bobbin winder .................................................................8..................................................................................... 23 presser foot holder ...INDEX A accessories ................................. 41 S satin stitching .................

English XE4592-001 Printed in China .

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