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e x p l o r e r
Discovering Cramond’s Roman History
Bibi’s Cupcake Temptation
From Wall Street to St. Andrew Square
From no God to God Particle
Edinburgh`s Great Minds
Terrifying Adventures in the Scottish Capital
Like a Fortune Cookie: You don`t know what you get!
download full book: www.lulu.com/content/ebook/edinburgh-explorer/12293701
I like Edinburgh ...
aving spent three weeks in Edinburgh in November I have learned how useful a transparent umbrella can be. Shielding my-
self from heavy rain and stormy blasts with my non-transparent one, I hit two street lamps and one bollard. So maybe get one, solid as well if possible. Gumboots can also be a helpful item to bring as you might face quite remarkable torrents in combination with a very wet and soggy ground. However, real Edinburgh people don`t seem to care about the weather AT ALL. Even when the first snow falls (which actually happened!) you will always come across some bravehearts in shorts and flip flops. Especially on Saturday night - it might be as cold as it can possibly get - it won`t stop the girls from wearing skirts resembling belts. For various reasons earplugs are another handy thing to have on you. After a while you might like to escape the ineluctable sound of the bagpipes all around the city centre. Alarms go off in Edinburgh very frequently, too – for whatever reasons. In the building I stayed in, there was this young lady on the first floor who obviously liked to cook and practised every evening. Unfortunately she often managed to set fire to her food, so the smoke alarm sounded loud and long. And just to add to the noise levels, there are plenty of private parties going on in Edinburgh, which is nice unless you happen to actually want to sleep. Follow this advice and you will be well prepared for most unpleasant incidents you might have to face here on occasions. Then you can relax and happily venture out and explore this pretty, historical and very vibrant city. And there is so much to like about Edinburgh. We have asked residents and visitors what it is for them and you will find out in the course of this magazine. The top answer by far has been: “It`s small and you can walk everywhere.” But there is so much more. Go for it! Caroline Wimmer
„... because it is a very compact city and you can walk from one end to the other.“
Peter, 30, from Ireland, journalist in Edinburgh since 2004
Edinburgh ABC Faces of Edinburgh In the Streets of Edinburgh She who Stands in the Cold Go but Don`t Come Back Tomorrow Bagpipes on the Rocks Timeless Tradition From Wallstreet to St. Andrews Square German - Most Spoken in Scotland Amongst Tourists Sugarholic`s Paradise Fitness Unusual From God to No God Particle An Old School Motion Let`s Entertain You Welcome to Edin, Bro! Nightfever, Nightfever Phantoms and Ghosts Rediscovering Cramond`s Roman Past Wildlife at First Hand Pony for Sale German Christmas Special The Authors Imprint Sophie Luise Bauer Edith Daibel Monika Weiß Jasmin Kriegelstein, Andrea Beres Edith Daibel Edith Daibel, Christos Kambouris Monika Weiß Andrea Beres Sophie Luise Bauer Christos Kambouris Sophie Luise Bauer Sophie Luise Bauer Christos Kambouris Sophie Luise Bauer Caroline Wimmer Jasmin Kriegelstein Jasmin Kriegelstein, Andrea Beres Andrea Beres Jasmin Kriegelstein, Monika Weiß Christos Kambouris 6 11 12 14 16 20 22 26 32 38 40 46 50 56 62 66 70 78 82 84 86 88 90
In the Streets of Edinburgh
words by Sophie Luise Bauer photographs by Caroline Wimmer
early midnight in Edinburgh. My flatmate and I are heading home after an evening of
reason why he chooses to perform on the streets rather than in the bars and clubs any more. The power that you experience listening to him outside may not be captured indoors, as the size of the room places limitations on how far he can push it. Then he discloses some incredible stories of his experiences so far. One of them was about when he got his first gig in Edinburgh. He had arrived in the city and was looking around for work in some of the bars. He found work in the bar called “Opium”. This post was short lived because of a dispute about wages with the manager, for which he was fired. Having no work and no income he decided to give busking a go and played outside the bar that he had been fired from. He had decided during the week to shave his head and because of this, when the manager heard him sing, he did not know who he was. He went on to offer him a gig in the very pub that he had been let go from the previous week. Martin couldn`t believe his ears but went along with it. He was offered £50 and free drink. And only after agreeing to do it, did he reveal who he was. That was back in 2005. After a long time touring the world he settled down in Galway but the quiet life was not ment for him as he missed the liberty that came with busking. He chose to leave a very successful career as a manager of a marketing company and went back to what he loved, his life as a busker. I would like to give him a hot drink but all I can offer is a few coins, which he more than deserves, so that he may pay his hostel for the night. As my flatmate and I disappear into the night, we hear the sad but beautiful sound of “Hallelujah” by Leonard Cohen.
exploring the backyards. As we pass the Grassmarket, we can hear from afar the raw sound of music. Magically attracted, we stand in front of a musician with a powerful and hypnotic voice. It goes right through us. The yellow light of the tunnel he is standing in creates a mystic atmosphere. His clothes are those of a veteran performer. His locks are flying in the wind and his hands are swollen and blue from the icy cold. Expressive and clear, he per-
forms the last lines of “Hotel California” from The Eagles. Only when he finishes his song does he register us, looking at us with alert and striking eyes. As if to ask what his new found audience is asking of him. His name is Martin Kelly from Killimer, County Clare (Ireland) and he has just arrived in town after a five year absence. He has been travelling the world and living the free life of a busker. So I ask him why he had decided to return to this city after being gone for so long. He says it was because of its spirit. “Once you could make a good living on the streets of Edinburgh”, he explains, adding regretfully that it seems at the present moment that this is no longer the case. Things have changed over the years. “There seems to be a lot more of a seedy side to the streets nowadays.” I ask him why he has picked this place to perform than on the busy Grassmarket. He answers with a proud smile on his face: “My voice has improved over the years since I left and in turn the power of delivery is not for the faint hearted people who live on the Grassmarket.” And that`s the reason he had to move from that area. When you listen to him it really has the sound of a man who sings for his life. This is also the
She who Stands in the Cold
„But all this I yielded up to astonishment. Even the most familiar part of it.“ Bert Brecht
words by Edith Daibel photographs by Caroline Wimmer
Street, wrapped in many layers – two pair of trousers, five T-shirts and pullovers. The wind is howling around this lady from Manchester, blows into her white blouse, balloons her black pants. Helen barely notices the rest of the passers-by on the street. In front of her – next to the rolls - is a crossword puzzle. This is her pastime when she is not serving customers. Helen doesn’t like her job, not at all! “You can’t expect much of life these days, can you?“ She is happy not to live on benefits. And her work is well paid, Helen says. But she likes Edinburgh: “It is not overcrowded; it is not hustle and bustle like in other cities. It is easy walking around. Manchester is busy all the time.“ “No, I am not married. But I have lived with my partner for 33 years.“ Helen’s been in Scotland for 30 years. Yes, she likes it, except for her job. It was the work that took her away from home – and landed her on Scotland`s shores. Manchester is not a beautiful place, it is a very industrial city. However, she goes back very often. The last time she visited her hometown was only two weeks ago. Her relatives and friends are there. She will go back for Christmas. The longest time she goes without visiting Manchester is two months. Helen doesn`t talk a lot, doesn`t seem to like talking much. Only half an hour longer to go this afternoon. And then: it is closing time! Helen smiles, as her working hours are coming to an end for today. She will spend the evening with her partner in front of the new fireplace at their home. She buries her hands deeply into the pockets of her white blouse as a gust of wind is blowing behind her. There is no heater to warm up the feet, the hands. The red umbrella next to the mobile hotdog stand remains closed. On rainy days, it offers little comfort. Time is creeping slowly away. For 13 years now Helen has stood and sold Hot-dogs in Edinburgh. “Oh, I don`t want to think of the time ahead. I still have to work for too many years!“ Helen drags her red hoody closer over her red cap. And the music is fading out around her. Helen is patient.
Helen and stand: Helen`s Hot-dog stand at the corner Princes Street/Castle Street
t smells good, as the lid is lifted. “Would you like to have some onions?“ Helen gives the young
is the 27th November, the first day of Advent. The small red train with the white reindeer on top passes in front of Helen’s Hot-dog stand with a warning bell. “Santa Claus is coming into town“ people are chanting. Helen stares blankly at nothing. Right in front of her, on the other side of the Princes Street, is a statue to commemorate some man. It faces Castle Street. “I don`t know him“, the 52-year-old shakes her head. Behind Thomas Guthrie – philantropist (1803-1873) - unfolds the Edinburgh castle.
man in the green T-shirt a friendly look; her red wollen hat is pulled down over her forehead. The sauces, chili, mustard, ketchup are there to add as required, then - a cold drink, and good-bye. Again, time, plenty of time. The Englishwoman grabs a strand of her reddish hair with her hand. And now: what? “It is boring, very boring!“ Helen has been standing here since 10.30 in the morning. It’s now 4 pm. One and a half more hours to go for today. “Yes, this is my job. I am here almost every day, every week, seven hours a day“. The words come quietly from her lips. Today
“Oh, I don`t like that view!“ she says. Helen shifts from one foot to the other. “The business is not going very well this weekend. It is too windy, too cold.“ And most of the people are strolling over to the Christmas Market this afternoon. Helen is standing at the corner of Castle Street and Princes
Three girls are appoaching the red stand. Helen grabs a roll of white bread. “Onions?“ “Sauce?“ “The chily sauce is good.“ Business as usual and then, again: “Good-bye.“
I like Edinburgh, because ...like Edinburgh ... I
Andrea Beres Caroline Wimmer Christos Kambouris Edith Daibel Jasmin Kriegelstein Monika Weiss Sophie Luise Bauer
photographs on „I like edinburgh...“
Curso eG Rungestr. 22-24 10179 Berlin Deutschland
Edinburgh, December 2011
„... because it has a rich history and so many secrets.“
Aimee, 21, student, from Edinburgh
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