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Market Watch Magazine November 2011 Issue

Market Watch Magazine November 2011 Issue

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Published by Chaillot Emile
Talking about liqueurs and more ....
Talking about liqueurs and more ....

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Categories:Types, Reviews
Published by: Chaillot Emile on Dec 16, 2011
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial


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Liqueurs Take Senter' $truge


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Liqueurs allow mixologists to add complexity to new cocktails and create variations on oldfavorites

A s cocktail culture continues to spread A th.oughout the country, bartenders /- \are tuming to liqueurs for a slew of
functions in the making of mixed drinks. The wide range of liqueurs that are currently on

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while adding flavor. "The general

focusing on craft cocktails

and spirits-forward drinks, so we're

the market provides mixologists with an

endless variety of flavors, aromas and even colors that can be incorporated into their cocktails. Numerous high-quality, artisanal brands offer natural taste profiles that can enhance fresh ingredients or serve as substitutes when specific produce isn't available. \7hile often playing the role ofsupporting cast, liqueurs can : also be the stars for lighter libations. \. h\ be absorbed by the "Mixology is starting to venues, mainstream and more volume-oriented which may not have time to press fresh pome. granate into a drink," says Eben Freeman, director of bar operations and innovation for the Altamarea Group in New York City. "Bartenders are now trying to figure out how to incorporate the principles of classic mixology into a cocktail and still make 150 servings of that drink in one night." Darryl Robinson, a Manhattan-based mixologist and host of the Cooking Channel show "Drink up," also finds that liqueurs help bartenders create great tasting cocktails without a lot of effort. "With liqueurs, you get all those flavor profiles up front without having to boil down and macerate your own fruit to create a syrup," he explains. "Liqueurs make your life easier." On the West Coast, mixologist Lucien Conner of the San Diego consulting firm Snake Oil Cock. tail Co. has noticed a trend toward lower-proof drinla that use liqueurs to reduce the alcohol

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,:,,{si?$, drink craft cocktaiis made with straight Bourbon or gin all night. People are .ffii '.. ;$ '.|1 'i\ startingwithdrinksthatareonthe r''i{': ' |" '":lri'"., lighter side and transitioning '..,,*'' * ":rrlririr throughout the evening." .: - ,.iiri:n :t :r ' ." j. I Kris Von Dopek, the beverage :: fu,-.,.$t*,r manager at Duchamp restaurant in 'tr.;

Chicago, notes that liqueurs are particulariy prominent in the colder seasons, when fresh

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fruits aren't readily accessible. "You



year'round, but they definitely play a more significant role in cocktails in the fall and
winter," he


The Fruit Factor
Brands like Bols, Marie Brizard and DeKuyper offer dozens offruit-flavored liqueurs, from apricot to watermelon and everything in between. "You're
getting very zesty liqueurs these days," says Robinson,




who touts the quality and versatility of the Marie Brizard line. "ltl not like the old days back in the BOs and '70s when they were mostly sugar. There are liqueurs now that can add reaily good propercraftiness." For the 2011 Thles of the Cocktail in New Orleans, the mixologist created the Apry Opry,
The Blaod E Hurey cocktail. conpris e s Wild Turkey Americmt Honey Liqueur, SLly InJLsioru Blood Orange uodka, citrus juices cmd.bitters.
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NovEMBER 2011

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The Palace Ceilar Aeft) mires King's Qinger liqueur, Pink Pigem nmL, lefltmt iuice, sctrspanlla syrup, pmvgrdnate bitters and carbm'nted water, while the Qolden Ca1illacUi* qatn-I-lAutenticoliqueur, Boh White Criryne dB Caccn, cream and' shaqted dmk chacolate.




mixed with Marie Brizard Apry apricot iiqueur, Maker's Mark Bourbon, lemon juice and egg white, served in a cinnamon'
sugar-rimmed glass.

Pur Spirits in San Francisco imports a line of artisanal German



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Von Dopek frequently incorporates Mathilde liqueurs into cocktails at Duchamp. "(Jsing liqueurs in conjunction with nectars or pur6es that we make in house helps bump up the flavor," Von Dopek explains. La Modena ($12) features a rasp' berry shrub made with Mathilde Framboise, Moon Mountain Dark Raspberry vodka, Veev agai spirit, fresh lime juice and soda, while the Pear Shaped ($12) blends Mathilde Poire, Plantation Barbados rum, pear nectar, lime juice, simple syrup and nutmeg. "The Pear Shaped is a riff on a Daiquiri," he adds. "And the fresh nutmeg brings out that fall spiced flavor." Snake Oil's Conner is impressed with the level of craftsmanship going into many artisanal brands that have entered the cocktail scene. "'We're seeing a lot of high-quality liqueurs that weren't in the market before," he says. "There are some organic American producers that are making better spirits." He points to the eaux de vie from Portland, Oregon's Clear Creek Distillery, which produces Williams Pear and Mirabelle Plum brandies made with locally grown fruits. French distiller

spirits, including Prir Likor \Tilliams pear liqueur and Piir Likor Spice blood orange liqueur. The brand's Pear Sour cocktail comprises Ptir Likor Williams, Macchu Pisco, lemon juice, simple slrup and egg white, dusted with Chinese five spice. And

the \Tinter Punch features Piir Likor Spice floated atop


mixture of Ravenswood Zinfandel, star anise, cardamom pods, orange zest, crushed peppercoms and honey. A number of new orange liqueurs have come out within the
last year. In April, Beam launched John DeKuyper & Sons' 03 Premium Orange liqueur, which is distilled from the rind, juice and pulp of the Brazilian pera citrus fruit. The company markets the liqueur in drinks like the Cadillac Rio Margarita,

mixing 03, Sauza Blue Silver Tequila, lime juice and agave nectar. Mixologists have also begun gravitating toward the newly re-introduced Mandarine Napol6on orange liqueur.
Dushan Zaric of Employees Only in New York City created the Imperial Sour, made with Mandarine Napol6on, Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur, lemon juice and egg white. The brand also recommends using the liqueur in an Old Fashioned with Bourbon and Angostura bitters. Some marketers are trying new approaches with their liqueurs. Altamarea's Freeman worked with Pama to develop a variety of new cocktails for the popular pomegranate liqueur. "l wanted to get away from the idea of the pome' granate-flavored Margarita or the pomegranate-flavored Mojito and think about Pama as something that adds texture


Gabriel Boudier recently unveiled its Mixologist Range liqueurs, which cater to bartenders and inciude fruit flavors
like Apple, Lychee, Tiiple Sec and Williams Peat, as well as the floral-citrus Parfait Amour. The Fresh Apple Martini mixes Gabriel Boudier Mixologist Range Apple, Biue Ice
vodka, lemon juice, agave nectar and muddled apple.

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WIrCH 29

and body to a drink," Freeman explains. "The liqueur has



chtail Recipes

THE PERFECT MIST By Darryl Robinson
tTi,l'Jif;,.BrizardparfaitAmour; l

sweetness, but it also has acidity and tannins that really create structure, which is sometimes missing from cocktails. Pama can add body without throwing offthe balance of sweet and sour too much." He also finds that it works really well

with darker spirits, like whiskies, rums and brandies. The
Forbidden Sour comprises Pama, Evan Williams Single Barrel


5-6 mint leaves, plus 1 sprig.

ounceSobieskivodka; ffin.


Bourbon, lemon juice and simple syrup, and the Truffled Alexander features Pama, Christian Brothers brandy, crEme


de cacao, and half and half.


Garden In A Bottle


white and mint leaves in a shak

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fruit liqueurs dominate the category, floral flavors are gaining momentum, thanks in part to the classic cocktail


By Eben Freeman
1 ounce Pama liqueur;

ounce Evan rVilliams Single Barrel Bourbon; 1 ounce lemon juice; lz otnce simple syrup; Ormge wheel.



Fill a rocls glass with ice md set mide. Combine liqueur, Bourbon, lemon juice and
simple syrup in a shaker, add ice and shake vigorously. Strain into the glass and garnish with an orange wheel.

PEAR SHAPED By Kris Von Dopek
Ingredients: 1 ounce Marhilde Poire; 2 ounces Plantation Barbados rum;
1 ounce pear nectar;

ounce lime juice; lz otnce simple syrup; Fresh grated nutmeg, Recipe:
Shake liqueur, rum, nectat juice and


movement. St-Germain elderflower liqueur is the star of this segment, having reached the status of essential bar ingredient in the last couple of years. "St-Germain has completely taken over the United States," Conner of Snake Oil says. "lt's amazingly easy to make a good cocktail with St-Germain." Ivy Mix, a bartender for Lani Kai in Manhattan and Clover Club in Brooklyn, New York, agrees. "People say that not having Angostura bitters on the bar is like not having salt and pepper-l would put St-Germain at that level," she says. Mix substitutes St-Germain for everything from Lillet aperitif to sweet vermouth to maraschino in cocktail recipes, or she'll add the elderflower liqueur to a classic like a Tom Collins for a refreshing twist. The liqueur works with a variety of spirits too. "l frequently use St-Germain with gin, and St-Germain and Tequila go wonderfully together," Mix says. "lt's also really interesting to work with St-Germain in more intricate ways so it doesn't take over the cocktail. It's a very good bridge." She and mixologist Natalie Jacobs won a recent competition with their Apple Bottoms Up cocktail, comprising St-Germain, tropical mango black tea-infused Laird's Applejack, jalapeflo-infused Herradura Blanco Tequila, pineapple demerara syrup and lemon juice. Other brands have developed floral liqueurs as well. Ptir Likor's portfolio includes an elderflower expression called Blossom, and Hum botanical spirit is a rhum-based liqueur comprising hibiscus, ginger root, cardamom and kaffir lime. At 51/z Bar in Pensacola, Florida, the !7est Indies Paintbrush ($7) is made with Hum, Brinley's Coconut rum and lemon juice, topped with soda. And Novato Califomia-based producer Tempus Fugit recently unveiled Liqueur de Molettes, which is made from French violets using on a l9th-century recipe. "l could drink Liqueur de Violettes on the rocks," Snake Oil's Conner says. Likewise, Marie Brizard introduced its 3O-percent alcohol-







6 a

simple syrup with ice md srrain into coupe glms. Top with nutmeg.


by-volume (abv) Essence pordolio, which features Violet, Jasmine, Rosemary Tea, Cinnamon and Spicy Mix expressions.
The line was developed for mixologists who seek liqueurs with less sugar, higher alcohoi content, natural flavors, aromatic simplicity and no added color. "l love mixing Cinnamon with fresh oranges, and Tea works well with peach and mint," says Emile Chaillot, beverage and cocktail consultant for Marie

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Birzard.'Jasmine matches perfectly with cucumber and coriander, and Rose' mary complemenb cheny tomatoes

heather honey, herbs and spices, is known

and basil." The Rosy Snapper

Martini comprises Marie Brizard
Rosemary Essence, Sobieski vodka, muddled

for the classic Rusty Nail, which mixes equal parts Drambuie and Scotch. One of the most successful cocktails that Snake Oil Cocktail Co. created within the last
No. 1, a British gin'based liqueur that blends spice and citrus flavors. The drink, dubbed the Peter Rabbit ($12) and served at Searsucker restaurant in San Diego, comprises Pimm's, lemon juice, bruised basil and a pickled carrot. "That cocktail sold more than 11,000 units last year, which is like 56 cases of Pimm's,"
year features Pimm's

cherry tomatoes and basil, celery salt,'Worces'

tershire sauce and lemon juice. Marie
Brizard's base tier also features a Parfait Amour liqueuq made from sweet Spanish oranges, orange blossoms and vanilla pods. Robinson's The Perfect Mist mixes Marie
Brizard Parfait Amour, Sobieski vodka, lemon juice, egg whites and mint leaves.

Conner says. "\7e're trying to introduce spirits like Pimm's to the everyman." Thz Afterlife cunprk es Fr angelico, Another liqueur that Conner has been Botanical Boost Espolmr Tequila, chili. chnamon syt'rp' touting as a cocktail ingredient is King's gaining lenvniuice mtdwmmwwdbitters. Italian herbal biner liqueurs are also Ginger, a 41-percent abv ginger liqueur prominence as cocktail ingredients. Many produced by London-based Berry Bros. & Rudd. "With a vermouth in cockbartenders are substituting amaro for sweet product that's really high quality and has a familiar flavor tails. "You get less of the wine and quinine flavors, more of the like ginger, it's a lot easier for people to get behind," depending on the fruits and sometimes more herbaceousness, Conner says. The Palace Cellar cocktail mixes King's ake Oil says. "Some have amaro you're using," Conner of Sn
-, -..





more residual sugar as well." He adds that amaro is also being used as a base spirit. "Within the cock-

tail subculture, amaro on the
rocks, amaro and soda, and amaro with an orange twist are popular

drinks," Conner says. "My friend makes a Fernet Mule, mixing
Femet Branca amaro, ginger beer and fresh lime juice." Galliano L"Autentico is an herbal Italian liqueur that's expe' riencing a resurgence in cocktails after being reintroduced with its

original recipe in 2008. The liqueur combines vanilla with a blend of botanicals, including
juniper, anise and yarrow musk, and is used in classic drinks like the Harvey Wallbanger and the
Yellow Bird. In October, the brand

promoted the Golden Cadillac cocktail, made with Galliano, Bols \7hite Crdme de Cacao liqueur, cream and shaved dark
chocolate, durrng a tour featuring

agold1979 Cadillac Deville that


several California cities,


including San Diego, Los Angeles and San Francisco. Herbal liqueurs from the United Kingdom are gamering some attention stateside as well. Dambuie, a blend of Scotch whisky, Scottish





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The Winter Punch (abwe) cornbines Pr.ir Spice blood orange liqueur, Ravenswood Zinfcmdel, star anise, cardnnumr pods, orange 7est, crushed peppercoms and honey. The Fresh Apple Martini (belwt) mixes Qabriel Boudier Apple Liqueur, BLue Ice aodka, lemon juice, dgdae nectar cmd mtddled apple.

Ginger, Pink Pigeon rum, fresh lemon juice, Snake Oil Co.'s house-made sarsaparilla syrup and pomegranate bitters, and carbonated water.

Nuts And Honey
From honey-flavored vodka and
Bourbon to house-made honey syrups, the sweet bee product has been making its mark on mixology. Bdrenjdger honey

Similarly, chocolate and coffee liqueurs can play a role as a modifier in a variety of cocktails, not just dessert drinls. Sacramento bartender Tiavis Kavanaugh won Kahha's mixology competition in Califomia's capital in September with the Once (which mearu "eleven" in Spanish), comprising 11 ingredients: Kahhia, rye whiskey, Cheny Heering liqueur, maple symp, pineapple juice, angostura aromatic and orange bitters, muddled coffee beans, egg white, nutmeg and an orange twist. Beam recently

launched Crave, a line of l5-percent

liqueur is gaining popularity as a
cocktail ingredient, due inpart to the brand's annual bartender competition.

This year's winning cocktail, the S.S. Europa by Manhattan-based mixologist Kyle Ford, blends Barenjziger, Noilly Prat dry vermouth and St. George absinthe. !7ild Tirrkey American Honey liqueur is also featured in cocktails like the Blood & Honey, comprising \7ild Tlrkey American Honey, Skyy Infusions Blood

abv chocolate liqueurs from John DeKuyper & Sons that includes Chocolate Mint, Chocolate Cherry and Chocolate Chili expressions. The

Manhattan blends Crave Chocolate

Chili and Red Stag cherry-flavored Bourbon.
Cream liqueurs, on the other hand, are used mostly in dessert cocktails, though some marketers are coming up with unique takes on that concept. The Chuno Margarita mixes Carolans Irish Cream

Orange vodka, lemon and orange juices, and
Peychaud's bitters.

Nut liqueurs also add complexity to cocktails.
Bluestem restaurant in Kansas City, Missouri, serves the Triple Crown ($8), made with Dumante pistachio liqueur, Maker's Mark Bourbon, muddled mint, caramel syrup and soda water. The Rare Breed Old Fashion

liqueur, Licor 43, Tuaca liqueur and Cabo Wabo Anejo Tequila, served in a cinnamon-sugar-rimmed glass. The Espresso Martini ($12) at Hoyt's restaurant in Chicago comprises Baileys lrish cream, Patr6n XO
Caf6 liqueur, Stolichnaya vodka and espresso. In the fruit cream category Diageo recently introduced Qream liqueur in Strawberry Crdme and Peach Crdme offerings. Featured

q = 9


($12) at 1534 in New York City mixes Disaronno
amaretto liqueuq Appleton Estate Reserve rum, Calvados

apple brandy, Punt e Mes vermouth and El Tesoro
Reposado Tequila, garnished with orange oil and peel.

cocktails include the Strawberry Shortcake, made with Strawberry Qream and Navan vanilla liqueur, and the Peach Qobbler, comprising Peach Qream, Captain Morgan Silver Spiced rum and amaretto liqueur, garnished with
amaretto cookie cmmbs. \X/hether they're being featured as the base spirit in a cocktail orused as a modifuing ingredient, liqueurs can



And The Afterlife ($12) from Ofrenda restaurant in Manhattan features Frangelico hazelnut liqueur, Espol6n Reposado Tequila, lemon juice, pequin chili-cinnamon syrup and wormwood bitters. 32

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offer bold flavors and nuanced layers of
complexiry to a broad anay of

drinks. @



NovEMBER 2011

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