a firSt look at our editorS’ moSt exciting new wineS

Insider
a members-only, Biweekly Publication

Vol. 8, No. 1 | Jan. 4, 2012

Marvin R. Shanken Editor and Publisher

the 2009 vintage iS the beSt since 2001
for Bordeaux’s great sweet wines. in Sauternes and Barsac, the Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc achieved high levels of ripeness, resulting in a vintage of dense, concentrated wines. conditions were also good for noble rot. “thanks to rain from Sept. 18 through 20, followed by a long period with morning fog and warm afternoons, there was rapid, widespread botrytis development,” said denis dubourdieu of château doisy daëne in Barsac. also here are some excellent dry whites from Sauternes producers, including the rapidly improving Y bottling of château d’Yquem. this week’s six Hot wines are on page 4. note: château de fargues and château d’Yquem have yet to release their 2009 dessert wines. —James Molesworth
Château Suduiraut’s 2009 is a wine of terrific range and depth.

FRANCE
Barsac 2009

Bordeaux / Barsac, Sauternes & other white
Château De MyRat
94 points | $45 | na cases made | Dessert
This is explosively rich, with almond cream, heather and honeysuckle aromas giving way to mouthwatering lime chiffon, papaya and dried persimmon notes. Long and expansive, with intense citrus pâté de fruit on the finish. Still on the youthfully rambunctious side, so cellar. Best from 2014 through 2030.—J.M.

Château DoiSy Daëne
Barsac 2009

93 points | $50 | 4,509 cases made | Dessert
Quite high-pitched now, with lots of green plum and green almond notes laced with bright honeysuckle and heather. The background shows more lemon shortbread, grapefruit pâté de fruit and persimmon, while the finish offsets the sweetness with a lively quinine note. Distinctive, but will need time to come together. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2015 through 2030.—J.M.

CloS haut-PeyRaguey
Sauternes 2009

93 points | $55 | 1,750 cases made | Dessert
Bold, and flashy up front, with roasted peach, mango and crème brûlée notes backed by date and toasted coconut, this turns racier through the finish, with lemon meringue and heather notes really stretching out nicely. Offers terrific length. Should be a beauty when it comes together. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2014 through 2030.—J.M.

Château De FaRgueS
Sauternes 2008

93 points | $187 | na cases made | Dessert
This harnesses the steely, nervy quinine edge of the vintage and buries it nicely in a core of lemon chiffon, shortbread and honeysuckle notes. The pure finish shows a nice sweet-and-sour interplay and fine length. This could age on a fairly slow track. Best from 2014 through 2024.—J.M.

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Château laFauRie-PeyRaguey
Sauternes 2009

Château la touR blanChe
Sauternes 2009

93 points | $55 | 4,631 cases made | Dessert
A more powerful style, with toasted coconut, almond and orange peel notes up front, followed by a dense core of creamed peach, glazed apricot and ginger, with a date-tinged finish. This should unwind soon enough while staying on the darker, tropical side of the spectrum. Best from 2015 through 2030.—J.M.

92 points | $64 | 6,665 cases made | Dessert
Ripe and broad, with lush buttered pecan and almond notes followed by rich apricot, orange and date flavors that glide through the finish, where a glazed pear note sits in reserve. This should cruise nicely through mid-term cellaring. Best from 2013 through 2024.—J.M.

Château RayMonD-laFon
Sauternes 2009

Château CantegRil
Barsac 2009

93 points | $40 | 3,330 cases made | Dessert
Rich and intense, with dried pineapple, candied lemon peel and heather honey notes, followed by spice, crème brûlée and lemon meringue. The long, pure finish has great power and precision. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2013 through 2030.—J.M.

91 points | $34 | 3,039 cases made | Dessert
A lush, front-loaded style, with lots of ginger cream, heather honey and warm shortbread notes that are quite rich and powerful, cutting a broad swath on the finish. A hedonist’s sweet wine, with the stuffing to last a while in the cellar. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2024.—J.M.

Château De Rayne vigneau
Sauternes 2009

93 points | $50 | 4,580 cases made | Dessert
This packs in some seriously dense creamed fig, pear and yellow apple fruit liberally laced with marzipan, heather honey and candied citrus peel. Rich and spicy through the finish, with great energy. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2014 through 2030.—J.M.

DoMaine De CaRbonnieu
Sauternes 2009

91 points | $na | 900 cases made | Dessert
A range of candied pineapple, dried apricot, glazed pear, quince and green tea aromas and flavors pump along nicely, with flashes of plantain and green almond adding length to the finish. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Best from 2014 through 2022.—J.M.

Château D’yqueM
Bordeaux white Y 2009

93 points | $190 | na cases made | White
This is very pure, with lilting floral notes of honeysuckle and chamomile up front, followed by green fig, green almond, tangerine and Jonagold apple flavors that meld together seamlessly through the light toasty finish. There’s lovely range and mouthfeel, with latent depth for cellaring. Drink now through 2020. —J.M.

Château guiRauD
Sauternes Petit guiraud 2009

91 points | $30 | 4,205 cases made | Dessert
This has a nice broad feel to its coconut, fig and creamed pear notes. The long finish sports mouthcoating tropical papaya and guava flavors, with a toasted hazelnut hint waiting to break out. Quite rich, but still forward and approachable now. Drink now through 2020.—J.M.

Château laMothe guignaRD
Sauternes 2009

92 points | $38 | 500 cases made | Dessert
A very lush, flattering style, with creamed peach, pear and mango flavors backed by crème brûlée and toasted coconut notes. The long, ginger- and spice-filled finish drips with unctuous tropical fruit. A hedonistic beauty. Best from 2013 through 2030.—J.M.

Château leS JuStiCeS
Sauternes 2009

91 points | $50 | 1,665 cases made | Dessert
A sleek and very floral style, with bright, high-toned honeysuckle and chamomile notes giving way to lemon shortbread, peach and papaya flavors. Long and racy on the finish. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2020.—J.M.

Château SigalaS RabauD
Sauternes 2009

92 points | $52 | 1,500 cases made | Dessert
Lush but defined, with a lovely floral and green tea frame to the dried pineapple, quince, pear and yellow apple fruit flavors, which are seamless through the long, lightly toasted coconut-tinged finish. Very suave. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Best from 2014 through 2025.—J.M.

Château liot
Barsac 2009

91 points | $na | 330 cases made | Dessert
Mouthfilling, with ginger cream, candied lemon and grapefruit peel and dried mango and pineapple notes pumping along, supported by a tangy green tea edge which hangs on the finish too. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Best from 2013 through 2023.—J.M.

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Château naiRaC
Barsac 2009

Château De Malle
Sauternes 2009

91 points | $64 | 1,400 cases made | Dessert
Rich, with seemingly languid persimmon, quince and glazed peach flavors, this quickly picks up a racy feel, with toasted almond and orange blossom notes running through the finish. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Best from 2013 through 2020.—J.M.

90 points | $na | 2,915 cases made | Dessert
A fresh, pure style, with lovely white peach, green plum and yellow apple flavors laced with a honeysuckle edge. Turns broad and creamy through the finish, with a lingering heather note. Very pure. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Drink now through 2021.—J.M.

Château RoûMieu-laCoSte
Barsac 2009

91 points | $46 | 1,365 cases made | Dessert
Quite ripe and showy, but with a juicy date and green tea frame that enlivens the heather honey, lemon cream, ginger and creamcoated brioche flavors. The finish is long and enticing. Drink now through 2022.—J.M.

Château De Rayne vigneau
Sauternes madame de rayne 2009

90 points | $na | 3,000 cases made | Dessert
This is very rich, with still youthful and tight layers of creamed papaya, plantain and green fig woven with bright floral hints and backed by a viscous finish where a quinine hint adds extra length. Best from 2014 through 2028.—J.M.

Château SigalaS RabauD
Bordeaux white la demoiselle de Sigalas 2010

91 points | $54 | na cases made | White
A lively, energetic style, with blanched almond and kaffir lime framing a core of verbena and lemon shortbread notes. There’s a lacing of paraffin on the finish, which picks up tropical melon and papaya notes. Drink now through 2015.—J.M.

Château RoûMieu
Barsac 2009

90 points | $47 | 3,330 cases made | Dessert
Lush, with lovely marzipan, fig, pear and tangerine cream notes, laced with honeysuckle and green tea. The long, showy finish has a nice lime chiffon note hanging on. Shows more brightness than power. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Drink now through 2020.—J.M.

Château D’aRMaJan DeS oRMeS
Sauternes 2009

90 points | $na | 815 cases made | Dessert
This has depth and power, with lush creamed pear, mango and apricot notes laced with more stylish hints of persimmon and candied orange peel. Leaves a thick coat on the finish, but shows a hint of bitter almond to keep it balanced. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Best from 2013 through 2020.—J.M.

Château St.-aManD
Sauternes 2009

90 points | $na | 1,880 cases made | Dessert
This has some youthful rawness still to settle in, with taut citrus peel and grapefruit pulp notes followed by a core of white peach, creamed Cavaillon melon and honeysuckle. Good length and wellembedded acidity should give this the balance it needs to round into form. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Best from 2013 through 2020.—J.M.

Château Filhot
Sauternes 2009

90 points | $30 | 4,165 cases made | Dessert
Quite juicy, with toasty peach and tarte Tatin notes laced with brighter verbena, honeysuckle and creamed yellow apple flavors. Good acidity lets the finish linger. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Best from 2013 through 2025.—J.M.

Château SuDuiRaut
Sauternes castelnau 2009

90 points | $40 | 5,500 cases made | Dessert
Round and lush, with a creamy feel to the peach, apricot and brioche notes that glide through the light toasty finish. Solid, and accessible now. Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2017.—J.M.

Château haut CouStet
Sauternes 2009

90 points | $na | 2,000 cases made | Dessert
Quite ripe, with lush, inviting nectarine, tangerine and orange marmalade notes inlaid with honeysuckle, date and toasted pecan hints. The long, unctuous finish has power in reserve. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Best from 2013 through 2022.—J.M.

Château la touR blanChe
Sauternes les charmilles de tour Blanche 2009

90 points | $68 | 1,080 cases made | Dessert
Very fresh and racy, showing lemon zest and chartreuse notes along the edges of the lemon pound cake and creamed Jonagold apple core, with a bouncy finish. Drink now through 2018.—J.M.

Château laFauRie-PeyRaguey
Sauternes la chapelle de lafaurie-Peyraguey 2009

90 points | $55 | 2,941 cases made | Dessert
Remarkably bright and lively, with an almost dry edge of blanched almond and white peach that skirts the core of citrus pâté de fruit and shortbread. Open and inviting through the finish. Best from 2013 through 2020.—J.M.

Château De veyReS
Sauternes 2009

90 points | $na | 665 cases made | Dessert
A ripe, unctuous style, with creamed peach, date, dried orange, fig and glazed pear notes all rolling through the broad, lightly toasty finish, where a flash of green tea keeps this honest. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Best from 2013 through 2019.—J.M.

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HOT WINES
Château guiRauD
Sauternes 2009

these are the most exciting discoveries from our editors’ most recent tastings, published exclusively in Wine Spectator insider. they are high-scoring, low-production wines from around the world that may be difficult to find, but are worth seeking out.

Château Coutet
Barsac 2009

96 points | $60 | 11,000 cases made | Dessert
This is a bird of a different feather, with an exotic and vibrant aroma of toasted coconut, followed by an almond cream note that gives way to the core of green fig, papaya, Cavaillon melon and honey. There’s stunning richness and mouthfeel, with the power to be one of the longer-lived wines of the vintages. Very impressive. Best from 2015 through 2040. From France.—J.M.

95 points | $77 | 5,000 cases made | Dessert
Very lightly toasty, this is more floral for now, with lively honeysuckle and pineapple notes up front, giving way to richer hints of warm brioche, fig, glazed pear and lemon shortbread that should emerge more with time. The long, lacy finish has the poise and balance for long-term cellaring. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Best from 2014 through 2034. From France.—J.M.

Château SuDuiRaut
Sauternes 2009

Château DoiSy-véDRineS
Barsac 2009

96 points | $100 | 4,000 cases made | Dessert
This is loaded, with gorgeous papaya, mango, yellow apple and creamed peach flavors carried by salted caramel, toasted coconut and ginger cream notes. Very long on the finish, this just sails on and on. Showing terrific range and depth, this has a long life ahead of it. Best from 2014 through 2035. From France—J.M.

94 points | $36 | 500 cases imported | Dessert
Richly layered and detailed, but thoroughly mouthwatering, this lets lacy citrus, floral and white peach flavors meld into a core of quince, fig and persimmon fruit, while warm piecrust and honey roasted almond notes drive through the finish. Very long, with superb cut despite its power. Best from 2015 through 2032. From France.—J.M.

Château CliMenS
Barsac 2009

95 points | $113 | 4,165 cases made | Dessert
Rounded and broad in feel for now, with richly layered toasted almond, ginger cream, brioche and glazed apple notes that all glide through the viscous finish, where a flash of green tea can be found. This has the buried zip for the long haul, which it will need to assimilate fully. There’s lots in reserve. Best from 2015 through 2034. From France.—J.M.

Château D’yqueM
Bordeaux white Y 2010

94 points | $172 | na cases made | White
This is gorgeous, with a light toasty coconut and brioche frame to the lush, creamed Cavaillon melon, kaffir lime, chartreuse, clementine and macadamia nut notes which all glide seamlessly through the long finish, which has a porcelainlike feel. Best from 2014 through 2022. From France.—J.M.

WINE SPECTATOR’S taSterS
the Most experienced team of Wine Journalists in the World
Wine Spectator’s tasting staff includes 12 people in two offices. they work together to review more than 18,000 wines each year, more than any other publication. together, our six senior tasters count more than 140 years of tasting experience. we always taste wine blind in our offices in napa and new York. this is your guarantee that our reviews are fair and objective, and that a wine’s reputation or price does not influence its score. each editor specializes in the wines of specific regions; their initials identify the taster of each wine reviewed. we score wines using the 100-point scale, explained below. James laube Senior editor, napa Joined Wine Spectator in 1983. tasting beat: california Kim Marcus managing editor, new York Joined Wine Spectator in 1988. tasting beat: austria, greece, Port, Portugal, Southern france thomas Matthews executive editor, new York Joined Wine Spectator in 1988. tasting beat: new York, Spain James Molesworth Senior editor, new York Joined Wine Spectator in 1997. tasting beat: Bordeaux, chile, finger lakes, loire Valley, rhône Valley, South africa bruce Sanderson tasting director, new York Joined Wine Spectator in 1993. tasting beat: Burgundy, germany, italy

harvey Steiman editor at large, San francisco Joined Wine Spectator in 1983. tasting beat: australia, oregon, washington Wine Spectator’s 100-Point Scale 95–100 classic tasting staff: 90–94 outstanding tim Fish (california) 85–89 Very good alison napjus (alsace, champagne, italy) 80–84 good nathan Wesley (argentina, italy) 75–79 mediocre Maryann Worobiec (california, new Zealand) 50–74 not recommended

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