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Ljubljana Pocket Guide 2012

Ljubljana Pocket Guide 2012

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Hotels Restaurants Shops Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

LJUBLJANA
December 2011 - January 2012

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

Festive December

Ljubljana’s old town is transformed into a winter wonderland

Museum of Contemporary Art
N°21 - € 2.90 N°5 - 6Lt www.inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com Enjoy your
COMPLIMENTARY COPY

A much welcomed arts space has opened in the city’s new Museum Quarter

of Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Contents

3

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Arriving in Ljubljana Getting around Basics
Statistics, politics and where to find the loo

6 7 10 11 12
12 18

History
2,000 years in 800 words

Culture & Events
Music, festivals and exhibitions Cultural centres and venues

Where to stay
Business suites to hostel bunks

20
Winter can be a foggy affair in Ljubljana, but on clear mornings the sunrises are especially spectacular

Dining & Nightlife
Where to eat Everything from A to V(egetarian) Cafés Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes Nightlife Dance and drink the night away

25
25 34 38

What to see
Bridges, museums and the castle

43 51 52 58
58 59

Around Ljubljana
Highlights from the capital’s surroundings

Where to shop
The best of what and where to buy

Directory
Lifestyle Business

Maps & Index
The old town offers more than a few photo opportunities during the December Festivities, photo by D. Wedam

City centre map City map Index

62 64 66

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

December 2011 - January 2012

4

Foreword
While talk swirls in Brussels, Paris and Berlin about the imminent demise of the Eurozone and perhaps even the EU itself, in Ljubljana attention is squarely focussed on the annual December festivities that engulf the entire old town in a sea of lights, music and entertainment (fuelled in large part of course by ample amounts of mulled wine and warm schnapps). This is not to say that the good citizens of Ljubljana value frivolity and merriment over important geo-political affairs - in fact they’ll be voting for a new parliament along with the rest of the country on 4 December (see opposite) - we only wish to point out that the city’s traditional December events are one of the highlights of the year and are enjoyed by pretty much every man, woman and child who live here (see more details opposite and in the Culture & Events section). For those poor souls out there who for whatever reason lack the Christmas spirit (or just have an aversion to bright colourful lights), don’t fret! There are lots of other events taking place in December and January, including a sure to be epic party headlined by famed French DJ David Guetta, concerts from a couple of blasts from the Yugoslav past (namely Riblja Čorba and Parni Valjak), several must-see exhibitions at the city’s arts spaces (including one at the newly opened Museum of Contemporary Art), weekly English language standup comedy at Hotel Union, and Slovenia’s largest tourism-related event, the annual Alpe-Adria: Tourism and Leisure Show. See the Culture & Events section for more info on these events and many more. If you plan to make any purchases (Christmas related or otherwise) while you’re in town, you can find some of Ljubljana’s top shops, both large and small, in the Shopping section of this guide, or pick up a copy of our 68-page dedicated Ljubljana Shopping guide for even more tips, suggestions and info. As always we welcome any and all feedback, be it on Facebook, Foursquare, Twitter or even old-fashioned email.

The World of In Your Pocket
Northern Ireland Ireland Estonia Latvia Lithuania Belarus Netherlands Poland Germany Czech Republic Ukraine Russia

Austria Switzerland Slovenia Romania Croatia Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo Albania Greece

FYR Macedonia

It was a busy 2011 for In Your Pocket, with new guides published in Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo), Netherlands (Tilburg, Utrecht, Amsterdam and Sittard-Geelen), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich), Slovenia (Posavje) and in Belarus (Minsk); 2012 promises to deliver many more new Pockets. The number of cities we cover has now climbed past 70, and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. To keep up to date, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Ljubljana In Your Pocket Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 602 ljubljana@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com

Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com ISSN 1855-3486 ©IQBATOR d.o.o. Printed Plan Print d.o.o. Published Published six times per year
Maps Monolit d.o.o.

Editorial Editor Yuri Barron Writers Yuri Barron, Will Dunn, Craig Turp, Richard Schofield, Francisco Alvarez, Elliott Foxton Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Consulting Craig Turp Photos Yuri Barron, Ljubljana Tourism, Branka Jovanović, Dunja Wedam, Adam Currell, Tomaž Štolfa, Michel Neven, Melissa Maples Cover photo Dunja Wedam Sales & Circulation Sales & Operations Management Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, Biljana Maletič

Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370-5 212 29 76).

Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

in the news
Best Nightlife Poll 2012
For a place of it’s size Ljubljana has a vibrant dynamic nightlife that would be the envy of much larger cities. While this is thanks in part to the huge proportion of students residing in the capital - university students alone account for nearly a quarter of the population - the variety of bars, pubs and clubs is a testament to the increasingly diverse tastes of the city’s inhabitants. The IYP editorial team has chosen the finalists in the six categories below - now it’s time to let our readers decide who is the best of the best. Thanks for voting and best of luck to all of the venues! The results will be published in the January/ February 2012 edition of the guide. Museum of Contemporary Art After lengthy renovations Ljubljana’s newest arts space opened to much fanfare on 26 November, with free beverages, edible installations and some live performance art that ranged from the bizarre (crying musicians refusing to play their instruments?) to the borderline intrusive (free hugs!). From what we saw, the space itself can already be considered one of - if not the - most impressive in the city, and perhaps even more importantly its opening means that Ljubljana now boasts a full-fledged Museum Quarter, with the Slovene Ethnographic Museum and a branch of the National Museum also located on the same square. See the What to See section for info on these and the city’s other museums and galleries. Early Elections Slovenia has caught the (early) election fever, and will join Russia and neighbouring Croatia with parliamentary elections set to be held on 4 December. If recent opinion polls are to be believed, the country’s main conservative opposition party will win the most seats by a quite comfortable margin, although there’s an outside chance that Ljubljana’s two-term mayor Zoran Janković will still end up as the new prime minister if his list of candidates and the main liberal party win enough seats to form a majority coalition. However things shake out, the winners (and losers) will face the less than enviable task of guiding Slovenia through the ongoing financial crisis, as forecasts for the country’s economy range from gloomy to Greek.

5

Prešernov Trg on New Year’s Eve, photo by D. Wedam

Festive December

Ljubljana has a tradition of ending the year in the most festive of fashions, with daily free events taking place throughout the old town during the month of December. Things will begin on 3 December with the official lighting ceremony in Prešernov Trg, and end on New Year’s Eve with a massive fireworks show from the castle. This year in addition to the usual assortment of family-friendly events and activities, several of Slovenia’s biggest musical acts will be giving free concerts in Kongresni Trg in the days following Christmas, including Elvis Jackson, Alya and Siddharta. For more info and a complete programme of events see the Culture and Events section.

The new Museum of Contemporary Art

Ljubljana IYP on Facebook
Can’t wait for the next issue of Ljubljana In Your Pocket? Visit our Facebook fan page to get your daily fix of snarky comments, travel and enter tainment news, restaurant and nightlife tips, and lots more random Ljubljana-related info. Some of our regular features include polls on the best of what the city has to offer, date night recommendations and videos teaching everyday Slovene. It’s also the best place on the web to ask questions you may have about the Slovene capital. And if that’s not enough we also like to bribe our fans with things such as free restaurant vouchers, chocolate and concert tickets. Besides, who couldn’t use another excuse to waste time on time on the internet?

A detail of the façade of Slovene parliament

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

December 2011 - January 2012

6

Arriving in LjubLjAnA
Officially part of the Schengen zone since late 2007 and nearly completely surrounded by other Schengenagreement countries, entering Slovenia has never been easier. With a well-developed system of buses, trains and highways throughout the country, getting around is also fairly easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town.

A Word From Our Mayor

Arriving by plane
Ljubljana’s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km northwest of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule.

Arriving by train
Once you’ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and made it to the main train station building, find everything you need including an ATM and press stand selling top-up cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts. Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with the toilets conveniently located next door. The station also boasts a surprisingly good Tourist Information Centre, a train information bureau immediately to the right and currency exchange opposite (open daily from 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun closed). Getting to town depends as always on where you’re planning to stay and how fit you are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking distance. Alternatively, find taxis outside, and make sure the meter is running before you depart. For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the the world – unique for its special position in the heart of Slovenia. As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts ever more visitors every year from near and far. The most important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly our residents, who live the intercultural dialogue and with their openness, kindness, and hospitality always ensure a touch of comfort and warmth. Welcome to Ljubljana! Zoran Janković Mayor

Arriving by bus
All national and international buses arrive at the central bus station which is located directly in front of the main train station. The ‘temporary’ prefabricated station building features little in the way of facilities for recent arrivals, making a trip to the train station almost compulsory. Perhaps the only one of its kind in the world, the bus station does however contain a Sixt car rental kiosk, with the only other useful facility being a small internet café for which tickets can be acquired from ticket window Nº1. Getting to town is the same as described above.

Arriving by car
Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road from where it’s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the parking signs for convenient places to leave your car near the city centre. Once in the city, it’s best to walk the short distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and narrow street. Also, if you’re staying in Old Ljubljana be aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone.

If Things Go Wrong
The emergency number is 112 for fire, rescue, andambulance and 113 for police. If possible, find someonewho speaks Slovene to help you make the call sincethere is no guarantee of finding an English speaker onthe other end.The nearest Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) to thecity center can be found at University Medical Centerat Zaloška cesta 2, Ljubljana (D-2) and emergencytreatment is free for members of EU, EEA, andSwitzerland. We also list local pharmacies, dentists, andother services in the directory. You can find it here. If you find yourself in trouble with the police, call yourembassy immediately. The numbers for all embassiescan be found here under Foreign Representation in the directory.Useful Emergency Words: NA POMOČ! (NAH POH-MOCH) - HELP! gasilci (GAH-SEELT-SEE) - firemen policija (POH-LEET-SEE-AH) - police bolnišnica (BOW-NEESH-NEET-SA) - hospital

Special bus lanes give public transport (including taxis) priority throughout the city centre, photo by Tomaž Štolfa

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

getting Around
Public Transport
Although most of Ljubljana’s sights are within easy walking distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people (and you can trust us as we’re proud card carrying members of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly efficient bus network for reaching attractions farther afield, such as the Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant Šmarna Gora, or for those interested in seeing what the city looks like outside the city centre. Although you may be lucky enough to see some Tito-era antiques plying the roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. While nearly every stop has a schedule displayed, at most only the frequency of departures is listed, which can make for some frustratingly long waits. With the newly introduced Urbana Card, 90 minutes of travel with unlimited transfers costs only €0.80. 56, tel. (+386) 14 30 51 74, mail@lpp.si, www.lpp.si. Ljubljana’s urban and suburban public transport company. There are LPP ticket sales offices at Slovenska 56 (Bavarski Dvor), Celovška 160 and the central bus station. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Urbana Card . The city bus operator, LPP has finally in, troduced the long-awaited Urbana Card, a form of electronic ticketing that will eventually replace the previous hodge-podge system of payment that included tokens, coins and photo ID cards. The credit card-sized smart card is similar to those already used in other cities, such as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass. The cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2 at many locations including various tobacconists and news-stands, tourist offices, the central bus station and LPP offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta 160. Credit can be added for any amount between €1-50 at these same locations as well as some three dozen green Urbanomati machines scattered around town. When getting on the bus simply touch the card to one of the green card readers at the front entrance and €0.80 will be deducted from the card allowing 90 minutes of travel, including unlimited transfers. tel. (+386) 30 622 862 (Eng/Slo)/(+386) 30 674 589 (Eng), fax (+386) 1 426 40 77, info@almaharentacar. com, www.almaharentacar.com. Located in the city centre, Almaha is one of the only low-priced car rental agencies in Ljubljana that you can easily walk to, meaning you can have a face-to-face conversation with staff before renting. However, they also conveniently offer delivery and pick-up services for free within 35km of the city, including Brnik Airport. Ask about special weekly rates being offered this summer. Q Open Mon-Fri 08:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 08:00-12:00. Avis D-2, Čufarjeva 2, tel. (+386) 15 83 87 72, rez. center@avis.si, www.avis.si. Cars from €40 per day. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 23 65 000, open 08:00-22:00. Europcar D-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. (+386) 31 38 20 52, reservations@europcar.si, sl.europcar.si. Cars from €36 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 236 79 90, open 08:00-21:00. IdealRent Tel. (+386) 31 565 170, fax (+386) 4 2323 776, info@idealrent.si, www.idealrent.si. A wide range of new cars, cheap weekly and monthly rates, and free pick-up and drop-off at many locations in Slovenia (including Ljubljana centre, Brnik airport, Bled, Krajska Gora and Maribor among other places), as well as arranging delivery at airports in neighbouring countries (Trieste, Venice, Klagenfurt, Zagreb and even Vienna) make IdealRent one of our first choices when it comes to hiring a car. Cars from €38 per day or €188 per week all-inclusive. Sixt D-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 7, tel. (+386) 1 234 46 50, info@sixt.si, www.sixt.si. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.-

7

Almaha A-4, Tržaška 2 (Tobačna Building, 3rd Floor),

Car Rental

LPP (Ljubljanski Potniški Promet) D-2, Slovenska

Urbana Card
The city bus operator, LPP, has finally introduced the long-awaited Urbana Card, a fo r m o f e l e c tronic ticketing that will eventually replace the previous hodgepod ge system of payment that included tokens, coins and photo I D c a rd s. Th e credit card-sized smart card is similar to those already used in other cities, such as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass. The cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2 at many locations including various tobacconists and news-stands, tourist offices, the central bus station and LPP offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta 160. Credit can be added for any amount between €1-50 at these same locations as well as some three dozen green Urbanomati machines scattered around town. When getting on the bus simply touch the card to one of the green card readers at the front entrance and €0.80 will be deducted from the card allowing 90 minutes of travel, including unlimited transfers.

Trains

bodilne Fronte, tel. (+386) 1291 33 32, potnik.info@ slo-zeleznice.si, www.slo-zeleznice.si. Full of nice touches such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the platforms, Ljubljana’s reasonably central train station just north of the main action is slated for demolition, to be replaced by a truly fabulous new building in 2010. See Arriving for information on several of the station’s facilities, plus, if you’re planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a 1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with signs and departure screens in English.

Train Station (Železniška Postaja) E-1, Trg Osvo-

Buses

Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajališče) D/E-1, Trg

Osvobodilne Fronte, tel. (+386) 12 34 46 00, fax (+386) 12 34 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana.si, www. ap-ljubljana.si. Essentially a large caravan without any wheels, Ljubljana’s temporary central bus station couldn’t be easier to use. Enter through one of the doors at either end, buy a ticket from one of the kiosks, and away you go. Some tickets can be bought directly from the driver, but you should always check in the bus station to make sure. The bus station operates many national routes as well as regular international services. QOpen 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

December 2011 - January 2012

8

getting Around
Taxis
Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable. The starting rate is usually between €0.80-1.50 with a per kilometre rate of €0.70-1.70, depending on the company, time of day and number of passenger. Waiting usually costs €15-20 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone will get you lower rates for longer distance trips. and abroad. Different classes of service are available to meet clients’ needs, and friendly professional drivers speak a variety of foreign languages. Metro Taxi M-3/4, Litijska 16, tel. (+386) 80 11 90. Taxi Intertours L-2, Središka 4, tel. (+386) 1520 97 04, info@taxi-intertours.si, www.taxi-intertours.si. Taxi Legende Andreja Bitenca 50, tel. (+386) 31 73 22 89, taxi.legende@gmail.com, www.taksilegende. com.

Airport

Laguna Taxi J-1, Celovška 228, tel. (+386) 31 492 299/(+386) 1 511 23 14, taxi.laguna@siol.net, www. taxi-laguna.com. One of Ljubljana’s more reputable taxi firms, Laguna Taxi operates over 100 different air-conditioned vehicles (including cars, vans and buses), and in addition to regular services can arrange transport throughout Slovenia

Parking Garages
PH Kapitelj E-3, Poljanski nasip 4, tel. +386 (0)1 360 36 48/+386 (0)51 366 510, www.parkiraj.si. Located along the Ljubljanica River beneath the modern Kapitelj and Urban Villa complex, which houses both shops, offices, residences and two embassies, the garage is only 100m or so from the famous Dragon Bridge and Tržnica market. While there are only 261 spaces, you can normally find a free one. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. From 07:00-19:00 €2 per hour, from 19:00-07:00 the first four hours are €1 per hour, while additional hours are €0.50. The daily rate is €32, while monthly fees are as low as €150. PH Meksiko F-2, Njegošova 4, tel. +386 (0)1 600 40 38/+386 (0)51 366 510, www.parkiraj.si. Only opened in 2010, the Mexico Parking Garage is a large modern facility situated adjacent to the Slovenia’s main medical facilities and just down the street from the central bus and railway stations. There are a total of 624 spaces, and the ground floor is home to a popular German supermarket. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. From 07:00-19:00 €2 per hour, from 19:00-07:00 the first four hours are €1 per hour, while additional hours are €0.50. The daily rate is €32, while monthly fees are as low as €150. PH Šentpeter F-3, Zaloška 1, tel. +386 (0)1 430 59 02/+386 (0)51 366 510, www.parkiraj.si. Situated near the University of Ljubljana Medical Centre at the intersection of Zaloška and Njegoševa Streets, Šentpeter Parking House boasts some 500 parking spaces. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. From 07:00-19:00 €2 per hour, from 19:00-07:00 the first four hours are €1 per hour, while additional hours are €0.50. The daily rate is €32, while monthly fees are as low as €150. PH Trdinova D-2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 1 230 96 00/+386 (0)51 366 510, www.parkiraj.si. Located in the very centre of the city, only a short walk from the Ljubljana Stock Exchange, main courthouse and various corporate head offices, the Trdinova Parking House has near 1200 spaces. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. From 07:0019:00 €2 per hour, from 19:00-07:00 the first four hours are €1 per hour, while additional hours are €0.50. The daily rate is €32, while monthly fees are as low as €150.

Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. (+386) 42 06 10 00, fax (+386) 42 02 12 20, info@lju-airport.si, www.lju-airport.si. Well connected to the Balkans and most major European destinations, Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northwest of the city, is as small and efficient as the rest of the country. There’s free Wi-Fi for internet addicts, a buffet-style restaurant, a couple cafés, a bank (with ATM) and currency exchange office (open 07:00 - 19:00) and a post office (open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00-12:00, Sun closed). Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airpor t’s website for a complete schedule. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Open 24hrs, airport information from 07:00-23:00.

Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika)

Adria Airways (JP) K-2, Kuzmičeva 7, tel. (+386) 13 69 10 00, fax (+386) 14 36 88 06, booking@adria. si, www.adria.si. Slovenia’s flag carrier. Direct flights to Amsterdam, Athens, Barcelona, Birmingham, Brussels, Bucharest, Copenhagen, Dublin, Frankfurt, Instanbul, Kijev, London Gatwick, Manchester, Moscow, Munich, Ohrid, Oslo, Paris-Charls de Gaulle. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office phone: 04 259 43 38 Open: 05:30-24:00 Air France (AF) B-4, Igriška 5, tel. (+386) 12 44 34 47, fax (+386) 12 44 34 48, mail.cto.lju@airfrance.fr, www.airfrance.si. Flights to Paris CDG. QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Austrian Airlines (OS) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42 02 01 22, office.ljubljana@aua.com, www.aua.com. Flights to Vienna. QOpen 06:30 - 18:00, Sat 06:30 - 15:30, Sun 06:30 - 10:00. Czech Airlines (OK) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42 06 17 50, lju@czechairlines.com, www.czechairlines. com. Flights to Prague. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Easyjet (EZY) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+44) 87 06 00 00 00, www.easyjet.com. Operates flights to London Stansted up to seven days a week depending on season, and also flies to Paris’ Charles de Gaulle airport on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays for as little as €40 return. For those travelling from Ljubljana on a budget it can often be much cheaper to fly to one of these main hubs, and then book a separate flight on Easyjet or another budget airline onwards to your final destination. Q Airport office tel. (+386) 4 206 16 77. Open two hours before flights. JAT Airways (JU) D-2, Slomškova 1, tel. (+386) 12 31 43 40, jat.airways@jat-lju.si, www.jat.com. Flights to Belgrade. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. (04) 206 17 80. Open two hours before flight. Lufthansa C-2, Gosposvetska 8, tel. (+386) 14 34 72 46, lufthansa@adria.si, www.lufthansa.de. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Airlines

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

getting Around

9

Turkish Airlines (TK) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386)
4 206 16 80, thyljubljana@siol.com, www.turkishairlines.com. Flights to Istanbul.

Tao D-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 5, tel. (+386) 1230 63 20, info@taoturizem.si, www.tao-tt.si.

Travel Agencies
For all your flight and hotel bookings, and tours. 00, fax (+386) 1242 00 04, info@avantura.si, www. avantura.si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Collegium C-2, Kersnikova 5, tel. (+386) 12 34 49 70/(+386) 40 194 194, fax (+386) 12 34 49 78, info@ collegium.si, www.collegium.si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Kažipot C-3, Čopova 5a, tel. (+386) 1425 44 91, info@ kazipot.com, www.kazipottours.si. Q Open 09:00 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Kompas D-2, Pražakova 4, tel. (+386) 1200 63 33, prazakova@kompas.si, www.kompas.si. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Mondial Travel C-2, Kersnikova 5, tel. (+386) 12 34 49 72/(+386) 40 192 192, info@mondialtravel.si, www. mondialtravel.sI. Relax C-2, Slovenska 51, tel. (+386) 1234 56 90, relax.lj@relax.si, www.relax.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Roundabout Pot Draga Jakopiča 6, tel. (+386) 41 786 168, fax (+386) 1 5611 039, info@roundabout.si, www. roundabout.si. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. STA C-2/3, Trg Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 14 39 16 90/ (+386) 41 61 27 11, fax (+386) 14 39 16 95, info@ staljubljana.com, www.sta-lj.com/. Q Open 10:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Transfers

GoOpti Tel. (+386) 1 320 45 30/(+386) 40 200
702, info@goopti.com, goopti.com. This new low cost airport shuttle service offers transfers to and from airports in neighbouring countries. Departures can be booked between Ljubljana to nearly 20 airports in the region, including Venice, Munich and Vienna, using GoOpti’s novel online booking system. Rates begin at as little as €9 per person.

Avantura C-3, Slovenska 40, tel. (+386) 1242 00

Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive
Vinjeta www.dars.si. Slovenia requires all motor vehicles travelling on Slovenian highways to have a vinjeta (veen-yeh-tah) sticker. This system exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can be easily obtained at nearly all gas stations and kiosks.

Yearly/monthly/weekly stickers are €95/30/15 for cars and yearly/half-yearly/weekly ones are €47.50/25/7.50 for motorcycles. Also be aware that border police will likely not remind you to purchase a vinjeta when entering the country, but are highly likely to issue you a steep fine when leaving if you’ve failed to do so. For more info check www.dars.si.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

December 2011 - January 2012

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bAsiCs
Climate
30 20 10 0 -10 -20 J F M A M J J A S O N D

Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm
150 120 90 60 30

Crime and safety
Ljubljana is one of the safest capital cities in the world, with the only prevalent crime being bicycle theft, which is unlikely to affect short term visitors. Nowhere in the city is unsafe to walk at at any hour, although if you’re by yourself it’s probably best to avoid certain parts of Tivoli Park in the middle of the night. The only real threat to safety in the city comes from out-of-control cyclists and negligent drivers not paying attention to pedestrians. Perhaps a secondary menace are slow-to-react automatic doors that seem to be installed in shops across Ljubljana - causing hurried consumers much grief and the rare minor injury.

Politics
The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy. The president, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007. Borut Pahor has been the prime minister since 2008. The next parliamentary elections will be in September 2012. The government consists of the PM and 15 ministers, of which two are without portfolio.

Smoking
Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.

Drinking
Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00 it cannot be bought in stores.

Toilets
Clean and pleasant public toilets can be found at the Dragon Bridge (Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik Passageway (Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at the Triple Bridge (Open 07:00 - 21:00).

Money
Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.

Exchange rates
1 EUR € = 1.34 US$ = 0.86 UK£ = 1.23 CHF =8.58 CNY =105 ¥ = 41 руб (1 December, 2011)

Basic data
Population Slovenia 2,053,355 (2009) Ljubljana 266,845 (2004) Area 20,273 square kilometres Ethnic composition Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Official languages Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr) Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia) Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m. Borders Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km, Croatia 670km

Market values
Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe, prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite noticeable increases since the introduction of the Euro in 2007. Here are some typical everyday products and prices: Product McDonald’s Big Mac Slice of pizza Slice of burek Cup of coffee Bottle of name brand vodka Decent bottle of local wine Bottle of local beer in a shop Pint of beer in a pub Pack of cigarettes Single bus ride Movie ticket Postcard Litre of petrol Taxi ride across town Fine for parking illegally Price €2.40 € 1.80 € 2.00 € 1.10 € 12.50 € 3.50 € 0.90 € 2.40 € 2.80 € 1.00 € 4.90 € 0.30 € 1.28 € 5.00 € 40

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

history
Language
Slovene is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian, and also shares many words with other Slavic languages. Although some words and letter combinations may appear unpronounceable at first glance, Slovene is actually a fairly phonetic language with very few irregularities - although the letters L and V can do some strange things depending on their position in a word. Luckily, most Slovenes speak either English, Italian or German embarrassingly well, so chances are you won’t have to worry about any communication problems. However, as with most countries, attempting to use a little bit of the local language can go a long way towards winning over your hosts. Even the odd ‘hvala’ and ‘prosim’ won’t go unnoticed. Pronunciation c - as in pizza e - as in egg g - as in go j - like y in yogurt č - like c in cello š - like sh in ship ž - like s in pleasure Basics Do you speak English? - Govorite angleško (Goh-voh- REEtay Ahn-GLESH-ko) ? I don’t understand - Ne razumem (Nuh ra-ZOO-mehm) Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahnEESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)? Good Morning - Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh) Good Day - Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn) Good Night - Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch) Yes - Ja (Yah) No - Ne (Nay) Hello - Živjo (Jeeve-yoh) Thank you - Hvala (HVAL-a) Please - Prosim (PRO-seem) Excuse me/Sorry – Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay) Pardon me (asking for help) – Prosim (pro-SEEM) My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ... I am from... - Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)... Signs Open - odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh) Closed - zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh) Entrance - vhod (oo-hod) Exit - izhod (eez-hod) Push – rini (ree-nee) Pull – vleci (oo-LETS-ee)

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Evidence suggests that people first populated the area known today as Slovenia as far back as 250,000BC. People were known to have settled in the area around Ljubljana by around 400BC when the Celts started arriving. Roman times With the expansion of Julius Caesar’s empire comes the establishment of the Roman town Emona on the left bank of the Ljubljanica, of which some remains can still be found in today’s Ljubljana. Thriving for a relatively short period of time, Emona is abandoned some time during the 6th century AD, and the region is invaded several times by the Huns and other early Germanic tribes. Medieval Ljubljana Ljubljana is first mentioned in writing in 1144. The now primarily Slavic city is invaded by the Habsburgs, who control the city and Slovenia almost uninterrupted up until WWI. The city expands during the first few hundred years of this period and the basic shape of the Old Town as it is today is laid out. 16th to 18th Centuries Protestant influence grows with the Reformation and continued Austrian occupation. The first book in Slovenian is published in 1550. The city is seriously damaged by the earthquake of 1511 and much of the city is rebuilt in the Baroque style. 19th Century Napoleon visits the city in 1809 and makes it the capital of the Ilirske province. As with many occupied countries in this part of the world, a national awakening takes place during the 19th century. Slovenian becomes Slovenia’s official language, the first college is founded, and the city grows into the shape and form it more or less is to this day. Ljubljana’s importance is boosted by the arrival of the first railway in 1849. After much of the city is destroyed by the huge earthquake of 1895, the city is almost completely rebuilt at the start of the 20th century. The Old Town is preserved practically intact.

Between the wars After the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire Slovenia becomes part of the State, and then the Kingdom of the Slovenes, Croats and Serbs on December 1, 1918, which subsequently becomes the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929. The Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik (18721957) builds many of his most important buildings in the capital between the two World Wars. Slovenia is occupied by the Italians, Germans and Hungarians during WWII. In 1945, Croatian-born Tito, whose mother was born in Slovenia, establishes the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. Socialism & Yugoslavia Slovenia develops as the richest and most Westernised of the Yugoslavian states. After the so-called Tito-Stalin split of 1948, Yugoslavia becomes much less oppressive. Yugoslavs enjoy many freedoms and are even allowed to travel out of the region and work in the West. Tito dies in Ljubljana on the afternoon of May 4, 1980. Relative freedom and prosperity doesn’t stop the region from suffering the same blows as the rest of the Communist world, and Slovenia becomes the first country to declare independence from Yugoslavia, officially becoming independent on June 25, 1991 after the population votes in a referendum in favour of the move on December 23, 1990. Independence & Beyond After a slightly shaky start, Slovenia establishes itself as the tiger of the former Yugoslavia. A shrewd combination of nationalist pride and business acumen keeps much of the country’s industry in local hands. Slovenia joins the UN on May 22, 1992 and the EU on May 1, 2004, several weeks before joining NATO. The local currency, the tolar, is replaced by the euro on January 1, 2007. At the end of the year, Slovenia becomes a member of the Schengen countries, and in 2008 proudly takes over the EU presidency for half a year.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

December 2011 - January 2012

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CuLture & events

Clockwise from top left: Elvis Jackson perform at a free concert in Kongresni Trg on 30 December; Serbian rock legends Riblja Čorba are at Cvetličarna on 17 December; German-Nigerian afro-soul new-comer Nneka will sing for a full house at Kino Šiška on 9 December; the Glenn Miller Orchestra comes to town on 17 December; and the Animateka Film Festival screens the best short animated films from Central and Eastern Europe from 5-11 December.

Music
As both the cultural and student capital of the country, Ljubljana regularly hosts a wide range of musical performances from classical and world music to punk and experimental noise-rock to pretty much everything in between, and manages to attract more than its fair share of big name international acts.

13.12 Tuesday

09.12 Friday
J-2, Kino Šiška, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 110, www.kinosiska.si. The Afro-soul singer Nneka gained international fame with the song Heartbeat, released on her album No Longer at Ease in 2008, and has since been compared by some music connoisseurs as to such stars as Lauryn Hill and Erykah Badu. She has recently released her fourth album, Soul is Heavy, and will stop by Ljubljana as part of her worldwide tour in support of it. Q Tickets €20, €16 for students and €23 walk up.

Nneka

J-2, Kino Šiška, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 110, www.kinosiska.si. The legendary Sepultura, together with Exodus, will be the main performers at Thrashfest 2011 in Kino Šiška. The Brazilian band is one of the most influential and important in the history of metal, paving their way to the top with albums like Arise and Chaos A.D, which have sold millions copies around the world. After almost 30 years, Sepultura remain the leading force of the metal scene, which they have again proven with their new album Kairos that was released in June this year. 
In addition to Exodus, Sepultura will be joined by German thrash metal band Destruction, as well as Heathen from the US. Q Tickets €32, €35 walk up.

Thrashfest Classics Tour 2011

14.12 Wednesday
J-2, Kino Šiška, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 110, www.kinosiska.si. Whereas there previous film positioned the enigmatic Icelandic group in the context of their homeland, providing geographical, social, and historical perspectives on their otherworldly music, with uplifting results, Inni focusses purely on the band’s performance, which is artfully and intimately captured by FrenchCanadian director Vincent Morisset (Arcade Fire’s Miroir Noir). Interweaving archive material from the band’s first ten years with the sometimes gossamer light, sometimes punishingly intense, concert footage, Inni is a persuasive account of one of the most celebrated and influential rock bands of recent years. Q Ticket’s €6.

Inni by Sigur Ros

12.12 Monday - 14.12 Wednesday

Vlado Kreslin with guests

B-3, Cankarjev Dom, Prešernova 10, www.cd-cc.si. Vlado Kreslin is one of the most influential contemporary Slovenian musicians, whose distinctive style combines elements of folk, pop and rock music. His great ability to combine different music genres is complemented by his exquisite selections of guest performers to join him for his concerts. Guests for his series of three concerts at Cankarjev Dom in mid-December include Mali bogovi (Slovenia), Beltinška Banda (Slovenia), Allan Taylor (UK), Hans Theessink (Netherlands/ Austria), Gabriella Gabrielli (Itlay) and Šajeta (Croatia). Q Tickets €10-31.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

CuLture & events
15.12 Thursday
L-1, Arena Stožice, info@blackpony.si, www.facebook. com/redparty.si. On 15 December 2011 one of the world’s most acclaimed DJs will return to Ljubljana’s Stožice Arena for the largest Christmas party that the city has ever seen. Almost a year to the day after first playing at the venue, this time incomparable David Guetta will bring a host of his DJ friends along with him, including Afrojack, Steve Edwards, Sunnery James & Ryan Marciano, Jaz von D, plus many other special guests. Tickets are available in seven different categories, and parents who purchase tickets for at least two of their children under the age of 16 will get in for free. Special transport buses have been arranged to ferry attendees directly to the venue from all corners of Slovenia, and Slovenian Railways is also offering a special 50% discount on fares. Q Regular tickets €38-65, VIP tickets €85-100.

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Red Xmas Party w/ David Guetta

Festive December
03.12 Saturday - 31.12 Saturday
Ljubljana Old Town. The festively decorated old city centre will see a range of different events intended for people of all ages and different tastes. As in previous years, the festival will officially begin with the event entitled Let’s Turn on the Light, People!, part of which is the turning on of the Christmas street lights that more or less blanket the old town. It will culminate on 31 December, in the open-air New Year’s Eve celebrations taking place in Ljubljana’s central squares, with views towards the castle and a massive fireworks display. Programme of events: People, Let’s Turn on the Light! Prešernov Trg, 3 December at 17:15 St Nicholas Fair Prešernov Trg, 3 - 6 December at 10:00-20:00 St Nicholas Procession Ljubljana Old Town, 5 December at 17:00 Concerts in Kongresni Trg Pavillion Kongresni Trg, 12 - 15 December at 19:00 Festive Book Fair Kongresni Trg, 16 - 30 December Fairy-Tale Town Kongresni Trg, 16 - 30 December from 10:00-13:00 and 15:00-19:00 Concerts in Novi Trg Novi Trg, 16 - 30 December The Good Fairy Mestni Trg, 16 - 30 December from 17:00-21:00 Concerts by primary school choirs Mestni Trg, 22 December at 17:00 Christmas Concert Mestni Trg, 24 December at 17:00 Concerts in Kongresni Trg Kongresni Trg, 26 December - 1 January Grandpa Frost Processions Ljubljana Old Town, 26 - 30 December at 17:00 Street Theatre Performances at Butcher’s Bridge Mesarski Most, 26 - 30 December Concerts at Pogarčarjev Trg Pogarčarjev Trg, 27 - 30 December New Year’s Eve Celebrations Old Town Ljubljana, 31 December 2011

17.12 Saturday

Parni Valjak

L-1, Arena Stožice. Still a top draw after nearly four decades in the business, the Croatian rock band Parnk Valjak will be performing at Slovenia’s largest indoor venue this December. Officially retired back in 2005, after a four-year hiatus the band reunited in 2009 and went on to release their 17th studio album earlier this year. A must-see for fans of Yugo rock! Q Ticket’s €29-45.

Christmas comes early this year, when David Guetta visits Stožice Arena on 15 December

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
December 2011 - January 2012

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

14

CuLture & events
17.12 Saturday
L-2, Cvetličarna, Kranjčeva 20, w w w.cvetlicarna. info. Riblja Čorba (which is Serbian for ‘fish stew’) is one of the most famous rock bands of the former Yugoslavia. Formed back in 1978 in Belgrade, they reached their peak in popularity in the 1980s, but have had mixed success in recent years, due at least partly to the controversial political attitudes of the band’s leader Bora Đorđević. Known for their provocative and social themed lyrics, their performance at Cvetličarna offer a unique chance to see a living piece of ‘Yugostalgia’ live and in person. Q Tickets €23 in advance, €26 walk up.

Riblja Čorba

you the next day! Joined by an up-and-coming seven member folk rock outfit called Avven, the show is guaranteed to pack the square, the adjacent park and likely all the surrounding streets, so show up early if you want to be anywhere near the stage. Q 20:00. Free admission.

Animateka
05.12 Monday - 11.12 Sunday
Kinodvor & Kinoteka, www.animatekafestival.org. Animateka, a week-long international festival of animated film, takes place every year in Ljubljana’s Kinodvor and Slovenska kinoteka, with this year’s event being the 8th edition. Beginning on the first Monday in December, it focuses primarily on the latest production of East and Central European short films. It also includes a wide range of special programs, which offer the audiences an insight into the beginnings and the development of animation, and present them with a short overview of the best contemporary animations on a worldwide scale. Realizing the importance of introducing the younger generations to animated films, Animateka always pays special attention to children. To this end, they have created the Elephant program, which focuses on young audiences, and includes year-round animation workshops (these are free of charge during the festival). The Elephant’s projections, an exciting experience for the entire family, are usually scheduled for the festival weekend. A full programme of all the festival screenings and events can be found in English on the official website. Q Individual tickets €4.95 regular, €4.25 discount. Festival passes €17-28.

17.12 Saturday

The Glenn Miller Orchestra

A/B-1, Dvorana Tivoli, Celovška 25. The Glenn Miller Orchestra for Europe, led by the renowned Dutch pianist Will Salden, will perform a concert of music by Glenn Miller, the famous 1940s ‘King of Swing’. Delivering superb renditions and creating an authentic atmosphere of the golden age of swing, the official successor of the original Glenn Miller Orchestra performs Glenn Miller’s evergreen classics such as In the Mood, Pennsylvania 6-5000, Moonlight Serenade and Little Brown Jug, as well as arrangements of songs such as Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend, Bei mir bist du schon and many others. Q Tickets €29-40.50.

26.12 Monday

Avven & Siddharta

C-3, Kongresni Trg. If Santa doesn’t bring you what you want for Christmas, don’t fret: Slovenia’s most famous contemporary rock band will be performing at a free concert just for

See Europe’s best belly-dancers at the Španski Borci cultural centre on 10 & 12 December

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

CuLture & events
30.12 Friday

15

Alya & Elvis Jackson

C-3, Kongresni Trg. Slovenian pop icon Alya and pop rock heavyweights Elvis Jackson co-headline a free concert in Ljubljana’s central Kongresni Trg on the second to last day of the year. Weather notwithstanding, this is a great opportunity to catch some contemporary Slovenian culture without opening your wallet. Q Free admission.

Exhibitions

27.10 Thursday - 31.03 Saturday

Slovenian Women in the Modern Age

B-1, Contemporary History Museum, Celovška 23, www.muzej-nz.si. This historical exhibition shows the life of Slovenian women in four important periods of history from the revolutionary year of 1848 to the end of the Second World War. Visitors to the exhibition learn about the ways of thinking and acting of some of the most recognized Slovenian women of the time, the ideology of the women’s movement, and the social life of Slovenian women in the areas of charity work, politics, education, science, culture, art, fashion and sports. Q Exhibition included in regular museum admission: €3.50 for adults, €2.50 discount. Free for pre-school children and ISIC card holders.

Photos of Slovenia’s famed Neue Kunst Slowenische movement are on display at the Jakopič Gallery from 17 January

08.11 Tuesday - 08.01 Sunday

Luka Vidič: Ljubljana’s Parks

25.11 Friday - 05.02 Sunday

New finds in the City Museum’s Treasury

C-4, City Museum of Ljubljana, Gosposka 15, www. mgml.si. The exhibition will feature objects from the middle ages and early modern period, which were discovered under Kongresni Trg and Zvezda Park during recent construction works. During the Middle Ages and the Early Modern period, the area of Kongresni Trg (Congress Square), as in Roman times, lay outside the walled city. The section of the city on the left bank of the Ljubljanica River, called Novi Trg (New Square), began right at the southern edge of the area under archaeological research. Archaeologists excavated the outer margins of the Early Modern period defense ditch, which together with the city walls protected this part of the city. The entrance to the city was possible by means of a bridge running through the Vicedom (Viceroy) Gate. A Capuchin monastery was built in the area of the present-day Zvezda Park at the beginning of the 17th century. It featured gardens, work buildings and the corresponding Church of St. John the Evangelist. The French converted the church and monastery buildings into a military store and stables during the Napoleonic conquests (1809-1813), and in 1817 the monastery was finally demolished.

C/D-5, Krakovski Nasip Embankment. This open air exhibition of large format photos can be viewed along the riverside between Zoisova Cesta and the small Gradaščica cannel that marks the beginning of the Trnovo neighbourhood. While many of the city’s parks already taken on a more barren appearance for the winter season, visitors can at least view what they look like during warmer times courtesy of local artist Luka Vidič. Q Free admission.

26.11 Saturday - 29.01 Sunday

Museum of Affects

10.11 Thursday - 31.12 Saturday

Beyond the Truth

Museum of Contemporary Art, Maistrova 3, tel. +386 (0)1 241 68 00, info@mg-lj.si, www.mg-lj.si. The inaugural exhibition at the recently opened Museum of Contemporary Art in Ljubljana brings together works from four major European museums (Ljubljana’s Museum of Modern Art, Barcelona’s Museum of Contemporary Art, Eindhoven’s Van Abbemuseum, and Antwerp’s Museum of Contemporary Art). The exhibited works were created between 1957 and 1986 as a reaction to a variety of different events and under very different circumstances. They are not arranged in accordance with any of the standard ways of setting up exhibitions, but on the basis of the concept of ‘affects’, i.e. events of different degrees of intensity which leave their marks on time and space, and particularly our bodies and consciousness. Perhaps more importantly, the exhibition offers a great excuse to check out the city’s newest arts space.

D-3, City Art Gallery, Mestni Trg 5, www.mgml.si. What is the correlation between the truth, storytelling and the narratives of history? Can the truth take on visual form? Does truth appear in a different form from untruth? Who is telling the truth? And how do we shape fictions to suit our personal truths? In this modest exhibition we would like to ask questions about the aesthetics of storytelling in contemporary art and how it is given form by artists and others. The invited artists deal with oral storytelling, the construction of the truth and its visual appearance. The works are connected through the way the truth is open to being constructed, deconstructed or manipulated in our contemporary visual culture. The fact that they come from different contexts, geographies and cultures shows how widespread this phenomenon is in the world.

29.11 Tuesday - 12.02 Sunday

The Lyrical - The Bizarre - The Ambiguous: European Mannerist Prints

F-2, National Museum, Maistrova 1, www.nms.si. This exhibition of European Mannerist printmaking brings together a selection of supreme prints from the late 16th to the early 17th century. Mannerism, an unusual period of art between the Late Renaissance and High Baroque, changed order and harmony for distortion of perspective and anatomy. The artists of the time rejected the exterior world of visually perceivable forms and drew inspiration from decadent views of beauty. The Print Section of the National Museum of Slovenia holds an extensive collection of prints from some of the leading centres of Mannerist art, including Rome, Venice, Antwerp, Haarlem, Prague and Munich, among others.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

December 2011 - January 2012

16

CuLture & events

C

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Snow dwarfs white and the seven
MONDAY

CHILDREN'S FAIRYTALE ON ICE

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

LJUBLJANA 26th DECEMBER HALA TIVOLI 2011 at 3 pm
Get your tickets at: Hala Tivoli, PETROL stations, KOMPAS, BIG BANG, MERCATOR – M holidays, Hiša vstopnic Citypark in Europark, Kiosk Delo, 3dva trafike, Pošta Slovenije Internet sales: EVENTIM.SI // Telephone sales: +386 1 420 5000

08.12 Thursday - 02.01 Monday

World Press Photo 2011

Cankarjev Dom, Prešernova 10. World Press Photo is an exhibition of prizewinning works from the world’s most prestigious press photography contest, organized annually by the Netherlands-based World Press Photo Foundation.This year’s exhibition brings together photographs in ten different categories submitted by photographic agencies, photographers, photojournalists and news publishers from around the world. The exhibited photographs include the overall winner from 2011, which was taken by the southafrican photographer Jodi Bieber and depicts an injured Afghan woman. Q Admission free.

ics include growing up in Slovenia, Slovenian culture, dating in Slovenia and much more. It’s fun disguised as education - what more could you wish for? QOpen 20:00. Admission €9. Tickets are available at Petrol gas stations, Kompas Travel Agency, post offices, and at the venue one hour before each show.

Bellydance Infusion Project

10.12 Saturday - 11.12 Sunday

17.01 Tuesday - 18.03 Sunday

Jože Suhadolnik: Album

C-4, Jakopič Gallery, Slovenska 9, www.mgml.si. The exhibition of 59 black and white photo brings Jože Suhadolnik’s specific insight into the major Slovenian artistic groups of the past three decades (including Laibach, Irwin, Scipion Nasice Theatre, Red Pilot, Noordung and others). Joined under a common notion of ‘Neue Kunst Slowenische’, the exhibition does not want to reinterpret the meaning of the historical phenomenon of NSK as an artistic movement, but to offer a more intimate insight into the documented events and highlight the photographer’s own communication with the individual actors as an individual who otherwise determines the collective attitude and mode of operation. Q Free admission.

M-3, Španski Borci, Zaloška 61, tel. +386 (0)1 620 87 84, blagajna@spanskiborci.si, www.spanskiborci.si. Europe’s largest bellydance performance takes place over two nights at the Španski Borci cultural centre, and is guaranteed to blow you away! Presented by the Amaya Dance Company, which is comprised of dancers from all over Europe (including Estonia, Slovenia, Italy, Bosnia, Sweden and Croatia), the Bellydance Infusion Project is a spectacle that will take you on a journey through elegance and mystery. The performance combines classical and modern stylizations of oriental dance, which originate in treasures of ancient dance forms inspired by Indian, Middle-eastern, European and (last but not least) American culture. Q Tickets €20 in advance, €25 walk up.

26.12 Monday

Moscow Stars on Ice: Camen

Stand Up Comedy Saturdays D-3, Grand Union Café, Miklošičeva 1, www.standupsi.com. Some of Slovenia’s best comedians perform in English every Saturday at the Grand Union Hotel. It’s a unique opportunity to learn about Slovenia from the people who know it best - Slovenians! Common topLjubljana In Your Pocket

Special Events

Dvorana Tivoli, Celovška 25. Carmen, one of the best known operas ever written, will this time be performed on ice by some of the most accomplished Russian figure skaters. The roles of Carmen and Jose will be danced by the Olympic champions Natalia Bestemianova and Andrei Bukin.The master of French opera Georges Bizet (1838-1875) composed his famous opera Carmen between 1873 and 1874. The opera tells the story about a seductive Gypsy woman called Carmen, for whom love is nothing but an amusement. She brings to ruin numerous men, including a soldier named Jose, who tells her story before his tragic end. Q Tickets €28/39.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

CuLture & events
Conferences & Fairs
16.12 Friday - 30.12 Friday

17

Conventa
18.01 Wednesday - 19.01 Thursday
D-1, Gospodarsko Razstavišče, Dunajska 18, tel. +386 (0)1 430 51 03, info@conventa.si, www. conventa.si. The Slovenian Convention Bureau’s 4th Southeast European Exhibition for Meetings, Events and Incentive Travel, will be held at the Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre in mid-January. The event brings together a wide selection of exhibitors from the tourism and international meetings industry in Southeast Europe, including convention bureaus, tourist boards, convention centres and hotels, event planning agencies, airlines and transport companies and various media for the purpose of arranging one-to-one meetings with top industry buyers who are responsible for organising international events for their firms. The exhibition’s focus on personal one-to-one meetings makes it the ideal venue for industry insiders to present their services and offerings to potential partners. Last year, over 3,000 such meeting took during the event. Following the official programme, several study tours will be available to participants who wish to explore first-hand what the region has to offer. A hosted buyer programme - covering return airfare, four-star hotel accommodation, local transfers and all meals - is also available for qualified individuals. See the official website for registration details and other info.

Festive Book Fair

C-3, Kongresni Trg. If you’re searching for a last minute Christmas gift, or would like to pick up a souvenir that also has some function, then look no further than the annual book fair on Ljubljana’s beautifully rebuilt Kongresni Trg. Book publishers from across Slovenia - which until recently published more books per capita than any where else in the world - will have their (mostly Slovene language) wares on sale during the last two weeks of the year. Free admission.

26.01 Thursday - 29.01 Sunday

Gospodar sko Ra z stavišče, Dunajska 18, w w w. alpeadria-tourismshow.com. Held at the end of January, Slovenia’s largest tourism event brings together seemingly every tourism related business, organisation, association and government office in the country. The show not only aims to promote all of Slovenia’s numerous tourist offering, but also bring together people from all of tourism’s diverse sectors in order to facilitate cooperation as well as innovation. As the name suggests, the organisers devote special attention to leisure activities available in Slovenia and abroad, with foreign representative also presenting their respective countries. Participants range from ministries, airports and railways to casinos, ski resorts and restaurants to golf courses, caravan dealers and the publishers of high quality locally-produced city guides. Q Admission €6 regular, €3 discount, free for children under 14 and those in wheelchairs.

Alpe-Adria: Tourism and Leisure Show

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CuLture & events
Cinemas
Foreign films are screened in the original language with Slovenian subtitles, except for children’s films which are usually dubbed. Aside from the largest blockbusters, films tend to open with significant lag with respect to larger markets, so don’t be surprised to see posters advertising something realeased months earlier in you own country. Tickets cost approximately €5.

Buy Tickets
05, info@eventim.si, www.eventim.si/portal/ en. Online ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per year, including concerts, sports, and cultural events across Slovenia and Central Europe. Check the offer of events and buy tickets before you even arrive in Slovenia. Tourist Information Centre D - 3, Adamič Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) 13 06 12 15, tic@visitljubljana.si, www.visitljubljana.si. The helpful staff at Ljubljana’s main tourist information centre can answer pretty much any question you have about the city, provide you with maps and countless other brochures, and also sell tickets for concerts, shows and various other events. Q Open OctoberMay 08:00-19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00. 22 December 2009 - 2 January 2010 Monday to Saturday 8:00-21:00.

Eventim B-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 14 30 24

Kino Dvor D-2, Kolodvorska 13, tel. (+386) 1239 22 13, info@kinodvor.org, www.kinodvor.org. Kinoklub Vič A/B-4, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 6, tel. (+386) 1241 84 11, www.kolosej.si. Recently renovated, this is a charming cinema to visit for a mix of Hollywood and other films. Kinoteka D-2, Miklošičeva 28, tel. (+386) 15 47 15 80, www.kinoteka.si. The place for non-Hollywood, art house and European films. Be sure to check the spoken language beforehand. Kolosej N-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15 20 55 00, www.kolosej.si. A big multiscreen cinema showing popular films inside the BTC shopping area.

Centre Stožice L-1, Vojkova Cesta. Part of the massive new Stožice Sports Park located just off the ring road in the north of the city, the Sadar Vuga designed arena is home to Ljubljana’s Olimpija sports clubs, as well as several other basketball, handball and volleyball teams from the region. It also doubles as the country’s largest concert venue, with a capacity of nearly 15,000. Tickets for most events can be purchased through various online retailers, such as Eventim. Festivalna Dvorana K-2/3, Vilharjeva 11, tel. (+386) 12 34 82 00, tajnistvo@pionirski-dom.si, www.pionirskidom.si. A large concert and event hall built by none other than local lad Plečnik.

Concert Halls

Philharmonic (Slovenska Filharmonija) C-4, Kongresni Trg 10, tel. (+386) 1241 08 00, info@filharmonija.si, www.filharmonija.si. A century old in 2008, the esteemed Philharmonic Orchestra performs regularly with Lebanese-born chief conductor George Pehlivanian and various guest conductors. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.

Conference Venues

Grand Hotel Union D-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. (+386) 13

Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre (Gospodarsko Razstavišče) D-1, Dunajska 18, tel. (+386)

08 12 70, hotel.union@gh-union.si, www.gh-union.si. Built in 1905, this Art Nouveau masterpiece has a long history of hosting major events and prominent guests - it’s the only place the Queen of England stay when she’s in town. It also has the most extensive conference facilities of any hotel in Ljubljana, including its immaculate Grand Union Hall, which can seat up to 800 delegates.

Gala Hala F-1, Masarykova 24, tel. (+386) 1 43 17

063, drustvo.kapa@gmail.com, www.galahala.com. As the main concert venue in Metelkova - Ljubljana’s regionally renowned independent cultural centre - Gala Hala hosts an eclectic range of performances several times per week, including many well-known acts, while functioning as a club on other nights. The state of the art sound system and acoustics make it a popular venue for both performers and audiences. Regular shows include Rapetek (hip hop shows the last Friday of every month), Zeleno sonce (funk concerts the first Friday of every month), Kapa records festivals (shows by artists signed to the venue’s own label), Dub Club (electrodub nights), Pozor! Nov bend na vidku! and Domorodni četrtki (featuring up and coming international and Slovene bands respectively). From May till October a summer stage and garden is also opened behind the main venue, which can accommodate nearly 1000 people. Hala Tivoli A/B-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1430 67 50, justina.gosak@zavod-tivoli.si, www.zavod-tivoli.si. Križanke C-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 1, tel. (+386) 12 41 60 26. A beautiful open air theatre with great accoustics for various summertime concerts and events.

13 00 26 11, luka.zajc@gr-sejem.si, www.gr-sejem.si. GR, as it is known in Slovene, is the largest convention centre in Slovenia, and is the location of nearly all of Ljubljana’s major conventions, fairs and trade shows. With 20 multifunctional halls and rooms it can accommodate thousands of visitors, and also has 1,500 parking spaces within short walking distance. For those arriving by public transport, it is located only 300 metres from the main train and bus stations.

Cankarjev Dom B-3/4, Prešernova 10, tel. (+386) 12 41 71 00, info@cd-cc.si, www.cd-cc.si. This complex from the early 1980s is a major venue for concerts, theatre, dance, film, exhibitions and congresses. Institut Français C/D-4, Breg 12, tel. (+386) 1200 05 00, www.institutfrance.si. The French cultural institute offers language courses, exhibitions, films and other events. There’s also a library with newspapers, films and music. Q Open Mon & Tues 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-14:00. Closed Wed, Thur, Sat & Sun. Kino Šiška (Urban Cultural Centre) J-2, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. (+386) 30 310 100, info@ kinosiska.si, www.kinosiska.si. After nearly a year of renovation, one the city’s most iconic cinemas reopened its doors in 2009 as an urban cultural centre featuring several state-of-the-art preformance halls and exhibition spaces. Dedicated to promoting contemporary music, theatre, dance ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Cultural Centres

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

CuLture & events
and experimental events, it already attracts big-name regional and international artists, and is scheduled to hosts around 200 events per year. Most concerts are held in its largest multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the Cathedral’, which can fit over 800 people. Check out their English language website for more info and a full schedule of events. KUD France Prešeren K-4, Karunova 14, tel. (+386) 12 83 22 88, kud@kud-fp.si, www.kud-fp.si. A venue for concerts, theatre, exhibitions and other events. QOpen 10:00 - 22.00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. F-1/2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkova.org. Ljubljana’s famous artists’ colony hosts a number of clubs, most of which play thrash style music to a dreadlocked black-clad audience of all ages. Unfortunately little of the website is in English so it would be a case of try it and see, but what we can say for sure is that it provides a refreshing and alternative alternative to the dance music found in most other clubs and attracts a crowd who probably care more that you’re ‘cool’ as in nonjudgmental than ‘cool’ as in what you’re wearing and how you sip your drink. Well worth checking-out both for itself and for the philosophy behind the whole set-up. Španski Borci Zaloška 61, tel. (+386) 14 30 67 70/ (+386) 51 31 50 76, blagajna@spanskiborci.si, www. spanskiborci.si. Španski Borci, or ‘Spanish Fighters’ is a welcome addition to the already flourishing cultural and artistic scene in Ljubljana. The centre, located in the neighbourhood of Moste a couple kilometres east of the city centre, runs an eclectic range of both domestic and foreign productions. The program combines performing and visual arts, music, literature, humanism, and childrens’ and youth events. There’s also a permanent gallery space and café. The centre is also the first permanent home to a contemporary dance ensemble, EnKnapGroup, providing much needed rehearsal/ perfoming space and the necessary infrastructure. All this should make for a vibrant and innovative arts community, well worth checking out the current program when you’re in town. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PTALEK

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Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre)

Jakopič Galerija C-4, Slovenska 9, tel. (+386) 1 24 12 500, info@mestnimuzej.si, www.mestnimuzej.si. A branch of the City Museum of Ljubljana, the Jakopič Gallery hosts exhibitions of contemporary art and design by Slovenian and international artists. The programme of exhibitions focuses on the role of contemporary art in its local environment. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Mala Galerija C-3, Slovenska 35, tel. (+386) 1 241 68 00, www.mg-lj.si. A separate section of the Ljubljana Museum of Modern Art intended to host solo exhibitions of work by contemporary artists from Slovenia and abroad. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Mestna Galerija (City Gallery) D-3/4, Mestni Trg 5, tel. (+386) 1 241 17 70, www.mestna-galerija.si. The largest fine arts exhibition space in Ljubljana, next to the Town Hall. It also has three additional spaces. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Photon E-3, Križevniška 10, tel. (+386) 12 30 20 71, dejan@photon.si, www.photon.si. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Škuc Gallery D-4, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax (+386) 1421 31 40, www.galerija.skuc-drustvo.si. One of the cities most popular and important galleries, Škuc holds numerous culture events and exhibitions throughout the year featuring some oft he most important people in contemporary art from throughout the region and the continent. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tobačna 001 A-4, Tobačna 1, tel. (+386) 1 24 12 500, info@mgml.si, www.mgml.si. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Vžigalica Galerija C-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 7, info@mgml.si, www.mgml.si. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Theatres
Most plays are in Slovenian, though every now and then there’s a company visiting from abroad. Times given are the box office opening hours. C-3, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 1251 08 52, info@mgl.si, www.mgl.si. The MGL has two stages that are the home of modern, progressive drama since the Yugoslav era. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kavarna Union D-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1308 17 63, www.gh-union.si. The stage of the Kavarna Union coffee house, inside the Grand Hotel Union. QOpen 08:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. C-4, Erjavčeva 1, tel. (+386) 1252 15 11, www.drama.si. With its roots reaching back to the 1860s, Slovenia’s national theatre stages plays from all eras. Q Open 14:00 - 17:00 and 18:00 to showtime, Sat 18:00 to showtime, Sun closed. Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) D/E-3, Krekov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 1300 09 70, www.lgl.si. Taking as its cue the origins of Slovenian puppet theatre in the 15th century, this puppet theatre, founded in 1948, provides over 500 performances annually, and is a hotbed of creative music, design and other forms.QOpen 16:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. The box office is open Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00, and during the hour prior to each performance. Slovensko Mladinsko Gledališče E-1, Vilharjeva 11, tel. (+386) 1 425 33 12, info@mladinsko-gl.si, en.mladinsko.com. The Mladinsko Theatre (or the SMG) is considered a laboratory for actors, directors, choreographers and musicians to research and develop, risk and create. Q Main box office at Trg Francoske Revolucije 5 is open Mon-Fri 12:00-17:30, Sat 10:00-13:00.

Galleries
These are some of the city’s more established smaller galleries - most of which have art available for purchase. For info on larger galleries and museums please refer to the Sightseeing section.

City Theatre (Mestno Gledališče Ljubljansko)

Alkatraz Galerija F-2, Masarykova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 434 0345, fax +386 (0)1 432 3378, galerija.alkatraz@ gmail.com, www.galerijalkatraz.org. Q Open Mon-Tues 11:00-15:00 and 16:00-20:00, and Fri 15:00-23:00. Bežigrajska Galerija 1 (BG1) K-2, Dunajska 31, tel. (+386) 1 2411 770, fax (+386) 1 2411 782, mestna. galerija-lj@siol.net, www.mestna-galerija.si. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Bežigrajska Galerija 2 (BG2) K-2, Vodovodna 3, tel. (+386) 1 2411 770, fax (+386) 1 2411 782, mestna. galerija-lj@siol.net, www.mestna-galerija.si. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Equrna C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 71 23, equrna@volja.net, www.equrna.si. Modern art in an elegant white, arched space. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. No admission. Galerija Kresija D-3, Stritarjeva 6, tel. (+386) 13 06 11 71. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Ganes Pratt C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1251 16 33/(+386) 1251 16 34, info@ganes.si, www.ganes.si. This fairly new space (found in the alley next door to Equrna) features some of the most exciting new Slovenian artists. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00-18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

National Drama Theatre (Narodno Gledališče Drama)

December 2011 - January 2012

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where to stAy
Symbol key
P Air conditioning J City centre location H Conference facilities L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms D Sauna W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted T Child friendly R Internet K Restaurant C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi secure parking and the pleasing fact that the best sights and leisure activities in the city are all close at hand. Check out their extensive website for further information. Q 327 rooms (singles €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372-446). PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh

U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre

Not surprisingly for a popular tourist and business destination, Ljubljana provides a wide range of accommodation options to suit all tastes and budgets. As you’d expect, prices creep up the closer you get to the centre, but the cost of a night here still remains relatively low in comparison with western Europe. The city’s popularity does mean however that places do book up for the summer. Ensuring you get yourself the room the want in the location you want and for the price you want during the summer is highly recommended.

Grand Hotel Union Executive D-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1308 12 70, hotel.union@gh-union.si, www.ghunion.si. In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Complete with a lovely old world, Art Nouveau ambience, expect an excellent choice of facilities for both business and leisure. Extras include two decent restaurants, a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent gift shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also hosts the local bridge club, who meet every Monday at 18:00. Q 327 rooms (singles €194-233, doubles €209-248, suites €455-546). PJHAR6UFLG� KDXCW hhhh Lesar Hotel Angel D-4, Gornji Trg 7, tel. (+386) 1 42 55 089/(+386) 5 911 96 80, fax (+386) 1 42 55 090, info@angelhotel.si, www.angelhotel.si. With the Lesar opening its doors last year, Gornji Trg has officially become the address of choice for Ljubljana’s boutique hotels. Owned by the same folks who run the exquisite Pri Vitezu restaurant, the hotel is housed in a beautifully restored villa at the foot of the castle and is an exercise in elegance and luxury. A labyrinth of hallways and stairs leads to a total of twelve unique rooms, and the premises also include a lounge, bar, several terraces and a 500m² garden. Additionally, the staff’s first-rate service and attention to detail has been duly rewarded with a top ranking on several online hotel booking sites. Q 12 rooms (5 doubles €120-150, 7 suites €170-350). Lev C-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 1 433 21 55, info@
hotel-lev.si, www.hotel-lev.si. Ljubljana’s only five-star hotel started business in 1964 and boasts a pedigree that’s managed to entice such notable celebrities as Agatha Christie, Kirk Douglas, Luciano Pavarotti, Bob Dylan and countless others in its time. A glistening marble lobby serves as a fine overture to the nearly 200 high quality, air-conditioned rooms - ranging from singles through to some exceedingly posh suites. All come complete with facilities including soundproof windows, cable television and a choice of internet connections. Extras include popular business and conference services and a restaurant specialising in some fine Mediterranean dishes. Q 173 rooms (singles €200-286, doubles €240-312). POJHARUFGKXW hhhhh fax (+386) 1470 27 08, info@hotel.mons.si, www. hotel.mons.si. Along the highway to the west of the city and close to the zoo, Mons is the city’s only combined hotel and congress centre, and a very good one it is indeed. From the magnificent works of art in the lobby (indeed, Mons markets itself as the country’s first designer hotel) to the glorious rooms, this place really is just what the doctor ordered. Indoor facilities are many, including gym and sauna. The congress facilities are state of the art. Q 110 rooms (singles €112-210), doubles €137-235, suites €257-355). PTHAR6FLGKDXW hhhh

Antiq Palace Hotel & Spa C-4, Gosposka 10, tel. (+386) 838 96 700, fax (+386) 838 06 790, sales@ antiqpalace.com, w w w.antiqpalace.com. With the opening of Antiq Palace & Spa, Ljubljana finally has a top end boutique hotel on par with any other in the world in terms of luxury, service and history. In fact, calling it a simply a ‘hotel’ is misleading, as it is truly a palace in every sense of the word. The sprawling 16th century building was a former noble residence and has been painstakingly restored to its original splendour. Its 13 fully-equipped and beautifully furnished residential suites range in size from 100 to 250m², and several unique spaces are available for business meetings, conferences and other events. The premises also include luxurious and intimate spa facilities, where guests can indulge themselves with the finest treatments and then unwind in a Jacuzzi, sauna or steam room. Q 13 suites (singles €115-240, doubles €275-330, duplex residence €550). PTJHARUIFLEDXW
(+386) 1 425 60 20, reception@hotelcubo.com, hotelcubo.com. Only opened at the beginning of July, Ljubljana’s newest hotel is already a hit with guests - meaning reservations are almost as difficult to come by as those at the popular restaurant of the same name across town. Located in the very heart of the city centre opposite the recently re-opened Kongresni Trg square, Cubo is the epitome of a fashionable modern urban hotel, whose interiors and façade would look right at home splashed across the pages of glossy design magazines. Definitely in a class of its own. Q 26 rooms (singles €140, doubles €180, suites €350). PJALKW

Over €170

Cubo C-4, Slovenska 15, tel. (+386) 1 425 60 00, fax

Mons H-3, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 1470 27 00,

Grand Hotel Union Business D-3, Miklošičeva 3,
tel. (+386) 1308 11 70, fax (+386) 1308 19 14, hotel. business@gh-union.si, www.gh-union.si. Attached to its sibling Executive hotel and sharing some but not all of the facilities on offer, accommodation comes in a choice of rooms and suites with a slightly feminine touch, but not enough to put off the serious male business traveller. Shared facilities include a grand total of 21 conference and banqueting rooms,

Hotel Listings Policy
Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical order within that band. The price band refers to the rack rate for a double room.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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€100-170
(+386) 41 557 908, info@allegrohotel.si, www.allegrohotel.si. We can’t decide whether to call it an upmarket B&B or a cosy boutique hotel, but semantics aside there’s a lot to like. The 12 individually designed rooms each feature a different colour scheme with deep purples, reds, blues and greens most prevalent, along with gorgeous wall paper and faux-antique furnishings. Several large common areas add to the overall charm, including a great lounge, a courtyard out back and a breakfast room in the cellar that could easily be mistaken for a restaurant. Q 17 rooms (singles €95-115, doubles €130-150). PJARBW hhhh

Allegro D-4, Gornji Trg 6, tel. (+386) 59 119 620/

Central D-2, Miklošičeva 9, tel. (+386) 1308 43 00, fax (+386) 1230 11 81, central.hotel@gh-union.si, www. centralhotel.si. The classic four-star hotel experience, the Garni is the little brother of the three Union hotels in the city, but that doesn’t necessarily make him a weakling. Geared up exceptionally well for the tourist market, the reception is crammed with the latest useful information about the city and surrounding region, plus there’s bicycle hire during the summer. The combined bar-restaurant isn’t too bad either, and the rooms feature everything you need for a good value stay right in the heart of the city centre. Excellent value accommodation indeed. Q 74 rooms (singles €90-167, doubles €100-197, suites €286-343). PJHAR6� FGKDXCW hhhh City D-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. (+386) 1 239 00 00,
fax (+386) 1 239 00 01, info@cityhotel.si, www. cityhotel.si. With a brightly coloured reception and lots of comfortable furniture, the centrally located City Hotel provides a pleasing atmosphere and lots of wonderful added extras for a most satisfactory stay in the city. A combination of standard and superior rooms, with lots of cream colours and hardwood floors in the latter, other goodies include free LAN internet in every room, a small library on the ground floor, and bicycle hire fitter guests. Onsite meeting rooms are also available, and an underground parking garage means you won’t have to worry about finding a space. Q 204 rooms (singles €73-126, doubles €106-160, apar tments €220-500). PTJHAR6UILGKXW hhh

Antiq D-4, Gornji Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1 421 35 60, fax (+386) 1 421 35 65, info@antiqhotel.eu, www.antiqhotel.eu. A superb location in the heart of the old town with a host of rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featuring a welcoming little lobby with lots of nice feminine touches, the rooms have been given a distinctly boutique hotel feel, with huge wooden beds, patterned carpets, interesting paintings on the walls and some really smart pieces of furniture. Even the small budget economy rooms have been approached with a tasteful eye, whereas at the other end of the spectrum the superiors come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers and magnificent bathrooms. Room 13 on the other hand takes a different, more modernistic approach, with wooden floors and minimalist furniture. Q 16 rooms (singles €85-110, doubles €156-206, extra bed €50) . PJAR6IGW hhhh Best Western Premier Slon C-3, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1 470 11 00, fax (+386) 1 251 71 64, sales@ hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon.com. On the site of the oldest hotel in Ljubljana, the Slon is the best value stay in the city. For a very reasonable price you get a ton of luxury, from a pillow menu (yes, really) to sheets of only the purest cotton. The breakfast is a buffet affair of the highest quality; you should turn up early if you want to have time to taste everything. Add in a small fitness centre and sauna, free Wi-Fi, home entertainment centres in every room, tremendous service and a location in the very heart of the city, and you have one hell of a package. Q 168 rooms (singles €75 - 134, doubles €110-160, triples €165-180, suites €201-335). PJHAR6UIGKDXW hhhh

M Hotel J-2, Derčeva 4, tel. (+386) 1513 70 00, fax (+386) 1513 70 90, info@m-hotel.si, www.m-hotel.si. Five minutes out of the centre on the road to Bled, this fine, modern business class hotel comes with over 150 well appointed rooms, all with cable television, en suite bathrooms, free wireless internet access and 40 extra-length beds for those who need it. Excellent value for what you get, extras include restaurant, summer terrace, car rental and a hairdresser. Q 154 rooms (singles €61-135, doubles €77-168). PHAR6ULGKXW hhh

Kavarna Maček Rooms D-4, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386) 1425 37 91, macek@lj-kabel.net. With rooms this beautiful and a location this fantastic, you’ll be the envy of other travellers. These rooms are along the river and above the popular Maček cafe and are beautifully renewed in a tasteful modern style. The rooms are mostly singles and doubles for couples, but there’s also one larger apartment. In the morning, head down to the cafe for a coffee and breakfast and at night grab one last drink before heading up to your glorious temporary home. QOpen 09:00 - 00:30. 5 rooms (singles €55, doubles €96, apartment €112). PTJA6GBKS
hotelpark.si, www.hotelpark.si. The brightly coloured tower block that is Hotel (and Hostel) Park conceals a number of good value standard, comfort, family rooms and suites, all providing different amenities depending on the cost. All of the rooms in hotel come with en suite facilities,TV, telephone, hairdryer, the comfort one also including a LAN internet connection, air conditioning and mini-bar. There’s a restaurant and bar as well, and a free internet connection in the lobby. Daytrips around Slovenia plus airport pick-up also available on request. Q 200 rooms (singles €60-110, doubles €80-150, apartments €150-180). PTJHAR6GXW hhh

€70-100

Park E-2/3, Tabor 9, tel. (+386) 1300 25 00, info@

Enjoy a relaxing stay in the old town at one of Ljubljana’s boutique hotels

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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1 54 00 166, fax (+386) 1 54 00 660, portalm@siol. net, www.portal-m.si. This long-running guest house (and popular Balkan restaurant) is located along the Ljubljanica about halfway between the ring road and the city centre, with frequent bus connections (N°11, 20 and 25) in both directions. It’s rooms are furnished in a traditional Alpine style, and is a good choice for families - especially those with young children. Breakfast is included in the price, and half-board is an additional €9. Q 11 rooms (singles €71.50, doubles €91, triples €117 and quads €156). PTALEKW

Portal Guesthouse M-3, Zaloška 110, tel. (+386)

Apartments
All the benefits of a private apartment without the costs of a hotel, plus you get to shop for your own breakfast too.

Marta Studio J-4, Tržaška 24, tel. (+386) 5 9020 452,

Center C-2, Slovenska 51, tel. (+386) 15 20 06 40/ (+386) 41 26 33 47, fax (+386) 15 20 06 44, info@ hotelcenter.si, www.hotelcenter.si. Just opened last year, this eight-room family-run affair is hard to beat in terms of location and price. The rooms are a bit on the Spartan side, but not without their own charm, owing in large part to the premises: a renovated 19th-century government building with high ceilings and splashes of exposed stonework. Run by the same people as Café Compañeros downstairs, there are often packages available - including free dinner and/or drinks - if you’re staying at least two nights and inquire about them in advance. Q 8 rooms (doubles €60-75). Emonec C/D-3, Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 1 200 15 20, fax (+386) 1 200 15 21, hotelemonec@siol.net, www.hotelemonec.com. This clean and slightly hidden hotel actually gives you front row seats to the city as it sits right inside the Prešernov trg area. The accomodations are sparse and while they have no restaurant there are no shortage of options as soon as you walk out of the door. A great choice for the traveller on a budget. Q 41 rooms (singles €64, doubles €67-77, triples €90-96, quads €105-111). JHAR6UW hh ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Under €70

fax (+386) 5 9060 012, info@martastudio.eu, www. martastudio.eu. These three self-contained studios and one large 100m² apartment make are reasonably priced alternatives to booking a hotel. All fitted with modern facilities, including kitchenettes, the family-run accommodation is just a short 10 minutes walk from the city centre, or an even shorter bus ride. Restaurants, banks and a supermarket are all nearby, and airport pick-up can be arranged for little more than the cost of a bus. The entrance is on the corner of Tržaška and Idrijska Streets Q (3 studios €45-55, 1 apartment €105-145). TA6L

Bed & Breakfast

Slamič C-2, Kersnikova 1, tel. (+386) 1 433 82 33,
info@slamic.si, www.slamic.si. An excellent value bed and breakfast in the heart of the city with the added bonus of a fabulous in-house café. The rooms are spacious and modern, all with their own en suite facilities, large comfortable beds and free wireless internet access. Simple breakfasts are served in the aforementioned café, which also has a delightful terrace. Within easy walking distance of Tivoli Park and the old town. Q 11 rooms (singles €65-75, doubles €95-99, suites for 1-5 people €135-219). JHARLGW hhh

Hostels
Ljubljana has a surprising amount of quality hostels, meaning you’ll have no problem finding that elusive combination of an affordable but good place to sleep and meet other travellers.

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where to stAy

Aladin J-2, Tugomerjeva 56, tel. (+386) 41 66 64 77, fax (+386) 1 515 14 36, info@aladin-hostel.com, www. aladin-hostel.com. Freaky pink and orange walls, internet in every room and your classic hostel ambience just north of Tivoli Park. Nice extras include a 24-hour ATM, billiard table and vending machine for snacks, plus there are a couple of communal kitchens and car park for guests. Between 08:0022:00 they also offer free pick-up from the main train and bus stations, so you don’t have to worry about lugging your bags across town or sorting out the local bus system before you settle in. Q 52 beds in doubles and 3- and 4-bed dorms (€10-23 per person). PHAGKW h Azur I-4, Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 40 636 205. Located in Rožna Dolina, a quiet student and residential neighbourhood southwest of the city centre, this cosy hostel occupying an apartment above a popular Italian restaurant of the same name has the cheapest beds in town. The friendly owner, Marko, provides free pick-up from both the airport and train station, and will generally do what he can to make you feel at home. If you come on your own bus 14 stops right across the road and you can’t miss the bright orange building. However, there’s not always someone at reception so it’s a good idea to arrange your arrival in advance. Q 20 beds (11-bed dorm €12, 9-bed dorm €13). ALK Celica F-1/2, Metelkova ulica 8, tel. (+386) 12 30
97 00, info@souhostel.com, www.hostelcelica.com. Ljubljana’s legendary Celica hostel and surrounding buildings close to the bus and train stations and the city centre started life in the 19th century as an Austro-Hungarian military barracks. Once a prison, many of Celica’s rooms have preserved their original character, providing a cheap and definitely quirky place to spend the night behind bars. Other

rooms are also available as well as dormitories to sleep from four to 12 people. There’s even a room for disabled guests, plus a huge range of other facilities such as kitchen, laundry, internet access, tourist information and bicycle hire. The hostel’s café serves excellent value set lunches every day. Q 29 rooms (rooms €22-30 per bed, dorms €19-25per bed). PJHAR6ULGKW h

Hostel Print J-4, Rožna Dolina IV/34, tel. (+386) 51 387 111, info@hostelprint.com, hostelprint.com. Ljubljana’s newest hostel is actually more of a budget hotel as all accommodation is in single, double and triple rooms, which are fully furnished and even include fridges. Tasty home-made breakfasts are also included in the prince and easily exceed what you get at most other budget options. However, the place still manages to maintain a laid back hostel vibe with several common areas and a huge terrace off the kitchen. Located in the student neighbourhood of Rožna Dolina, it’s a short walk to the centre or a quick ride on bus 14 (hop off opposite Mercator). Q 25 rooms (singles €25, doubles €50, triples €66). PTRLGXW

Couchsurfing
Who says that beggars can’t be choosers? There are literally hundreds of sociable Slovenes currently offering their (or their parents’) spare rooms, couches and floors for free to fellow travellers. The site, which combines social networking with hostel booking, is a great option for anyone interested in hanging out with locals and saving some cash on accommodation. It can obviously be a hit-or-miss experience, but the exhaustive member profiles will give you a good idea of what to expect from your prospective hosts. Info www.couchsurfing.org

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Symbol key
P Air conditioning J City centre location H Conference facilities L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms D Sauna W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted T Child friendly R Internet K Restaurant C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi

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U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre

Ljubljana’s restaurant scene continues to flourish with new and more exotic offerings opening all the time. A couple of our current favourites include the the semi-hidden Valmarin in the old town, and third generation family-run Brinje (where the horse steaks smothered in rocket and garlic are about as good as it gets). Although more often than not these days eating out often means burek for us. Be sure to sample some local cuisine when in town, and do get yourself outside at least one legendary kremšnita cream cake, which can be found in abundance throughout the city (althoughBled is considered to the spiritual home of this sticky, gooey delight). Those not in town for its culinary excellence and who plan to do plenty of walking will be pleased to discover that almost every street has at least one burek and pizza place on it. Eating on the hoof in Ljubljana is a treat not to be missed. The following reviews are by no means complete, but do offer a bit of everything for everyone, from the finest white-tablecloth options available to the more amusingly backwards establishments complete with greasy cutlery and bumbling waiters. Assuming that visitors avoid the classic traps of restaurant dining and the outrageously overpriced places aimed at the tourist market, eating in Ljubljana, although not as cheap as it was, remains a pleasantly affordable experience for all. Also be aware that during the summer many restaurants keep shorter hours or close entirely for several weeks at a time - in the latter cases we’ve tried to make a note of this but if you’re heading somewhere a bit out of the way it’s always a good idea to call first.

Asian
Aside from the virtually countless, and sadly indistinguishable, Chinese restaurants around town, Ljubljana isn’t exactly a hotbed of cuisine from the Far East. However, there are (small) handful of first-rate options to choose from, including the atmospheric, if a a bit overpriced, Sushimama, and Shambala, a great panAsian place.

Bangkok Street M-2, Šmartinska 152/G (BTC), tel.

(+386) 15 23 31 65, fax (+386) 15 23 31 66, info@ bangkokstreet.si, www.bangkokstreet.si. Settle into a table with views of an artfully-lit perforated metal structure just beyond the ceiling-high windows at the back of this stylish new eatery, and you just might be able to forget that you’re staring at the façade of a parking garage from a shopping mall. While the food won’t have you sprinting to the nearest telephone to call home and sing its praises, it’s better than you might expect given the location and you’ll be hard-pressed to find better value in terms of ethnic food - the portions are huge and there’s also a relatively inexpensive all-you-can-eat buffet. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€4-16). PTA6UL� VEGSW

Experience Asia in Ljubljana with a meal at Shambala

30 14/(+386) 31 843 833, info@shambala.si, www. shambala.si. Great value Asian food in a quiet, side street location. Head out back to the covered garden and order any of the tremendous stir fries, though do not forego the starters: tempura made with shrimps make great nibbles. There is plenty for vegetarians on the menu (not always the case in these parts). QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€3.50-9.50). PTJAGBK

Shambala C-4, Križevniška 12, tel. (+386) 14 26

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restAurAnts
Balkan
1 542 37 77/(+386) 51 606 080, www.dubocica.si. Located in the Moste neighbourhood of Ljubljana a short walk, drive or bike ride east of the hospital, once you cross the railway tracks it’s easy to think you’ve arrived in some quaint countryside village. The restaurant itself is housed in a more than century-old house, and was one of the first places in Ljubljana that served authentic home-cooked Serbian cuisine. Be sure to try at least one dish off the mouth-watering (and meat-heavy) House Specialities menu - you won’t be disappointed. Q Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00, Fri & Sat 11:0001:00. (€5.50-13.20). PTAULGBSW

Gostilna Dubočica L/M-3, Zaloška 31, tel. (+386)

Buffet
If you’ve just read the entire restaurant section of this guide and you still haven’t been served, stay calm, collect your belongings and pop into somewhere where the food is served piping hot, and straight from metal containers.

Gostilna Gurman K-4, Cesta na Loko 28, tel. (+386)

1 283 88 33/(+386) 31 661 501, www.gurmanmomo. si. This is the place to head for authentic Serbian food in Trnovo. You’ll think you were in Belgrade with all the grilled meat they pile on your table - čevapi, pleskavica, pork medallions, chicken skewers - along with ample helpings of kajmak, ajvar and šopska salata. The house specialities are great too, especially the steak negoš, which comes stuffed with bacon, cheese and ham, and if you can’t decide what to order there are several combination platters that will let you taste a bit of everything. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€5.50-12).

Restaurant 2000 C-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 1476 69 25. A vast underground filling station for budgetconscious city slickers such as construction workers, Korean businessmen and of course the obligatory sprinkling of students. Grab a tray, throw on some meat, mashed potato, rice, salad, whatever, don’t forget to pick up a soft drink, pay and eat. The food isn’t going to win any awards, but it’s more than good enough especially for the price. Find it deep inside the bowels of Maxi Market. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 17:00. Closed Sun. (€5-7). PJGBSW

31 751 751/(+386) 14 25 32 26, portalm@siol.net, www.riomomo.si. Situated between the central post office and Kongresni Trg on the city’s main thoroughfare, we’ve never found the exterior to be the most inviting but once you get inside it’s actually quite warm and cosy. The thick leather covers on the menus portend the ample selection of grilled meat dishes within, although vegetarians have a handful of a pastas and salads to choose from as well. On your way in don’t forget to check the table outside for flyers entitling you to a free glass of wine. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-19). PTJAUSW

Gostilnica Rio-Momo C-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386)

Ribca D-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 1, tel. (+386) 14 25 15 44, www.ribca.si. Somewhat hidden below Plečnik’s famous colonnaded arcade on the banks of the Ljubljanica, Ribca is the city’s best known seafood restaurant and worth stopping by as much for the architecture as the food. The various fish, squid and shrimp dishes on their no-nonsense menu are pretty much guaranteed to be fresh as it’s all sourced from the local fish market located right next door. The lunch menu is a great value at €7.50, but make sure to stop by early as it’s only open during the day. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. (€3.30-7.70). JA6BS

Fish

Gostišče Portal M-3, Zaloška 110, tel. (+386) 1 540 01 66, portalm@siol.net, www.portal-m.si. Step into this cavernous old gostilna or stay out on the terrace and watch the river flow by at this great restaurant tucked away from the traffic. While they offer pizzas and pastas, the parking lot stays full with people here for real grilled Serbian food, and those options abound. They also have a long list of good Slovenian wines to drink alongside. Several rooms are also available for hire. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (€7-20). PTAULEGBXSW

Juicebox C-3, Slovenska 38, tel. (+386) 51 61 45 45, info@juicebox.si, www.juicebox.si. An experimental juice bar that mixes up glasses upon glasses of 100% fruit juices, soya milk, milk, yogurt and nuts. That’s enough to get anyone’s mouth water. Definitely, a pleasant place for an invigorating start to the day or a mid day refreshment and you can bring your laptop along to make use of its WiFi facility. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 8:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PJGSW

Fruit juice

Indian

restavracija-namaste.si, www.restavracija-namaste.si. Lots of greens, oranges and golds and some nice exotic touches create a relaxing atmosphere inside a super restaurant specialising primarily in dishes from Rajastan and the Punjab. Using the best spices imported directly from India, the owners stress the fact that the dishes, both meat and vegetarian options are made individually from mild to extra hot. By all accounts the food is excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-21). PTJA6UGBXS

Namasté C/D-4, Breg 8, tel. (+386) 14 25 01 59, info@

International

Argentino M-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. (+386) 1
523 36 30, info@argentino.si, www.argentino.si. The journey out to BTC is well worth the effort, for Argentino really needs to be experienced to be believed. Huge, and based on a classic Argentinean hacienda on two levels with further seating outside, the interior designer had a great time thinking this one up. Featuring vast paintings, enormous mirrors, video projectors, a fabulous bar and an even lovelier open kitchen, which turns out a dizzying array of mouth-watering Latin American dishes including some of the best steaks in Ljubljana. Q Open Mon-Thur 08:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 08:00-24:00. Closed Sun. (€5.20-45). PTAR6UILGBXSW

No matter what the weather brings, local restaurants are assured of fresh supplies at Tržnica

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Comfortable rooms furnished in the Alpine style offer peace and quiet with anever lovely view of the river

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Zaloška cesta 110, 1000 Ljubljana

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Burek
Nobel Burek D-2, Miklošičeva 30, tel. (+386) 12 32
33 92. A small kiosk close to the train and bus stations churning out steaming hot burek as well as pizza for those who like to do their fine dining in the street. Excellent value, excellent burek. Q Open 24hrs. (€1-2). J6UXS spirits from around the world. Every detail is just so in this beautiful space and it was thus no surprise when the restaurant recently had the distinction of being visited for lunch by American First Lady Laura Bush, you’ll see the picture commemorating the event as you enter the door. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€10-30). PTJA6UGBS

Olimpija D-2, Slovenska 58. Not one of our personal favourites, but judging by the crowds milling about outside around the clock we’re in the minority. It was also the runaway winner of our online poll. The servings are huge and always hot, with four varieties of pie to choose from: cheese, meat, apple and pizza - the latter being the overwhelming favourite among customers. Just around the corner from Bavarski Dvor. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. €2. JNXS

Maxim C-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 1 476 69 82/ (+386) 1 560-13-00, info@maxi.si, www.maxi.si. In the heart of the city centre this modern, business-orientated restaurant provides a fine menu of dishes including duck breast with mashed potatoes, soups, seafood, and a galaxy of fabulous puddings. There’s a huge wine list too, and a nice terraced area complete with water features for quality outdoor summer dining. Popular with professional locals and foreigners alike. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€40 and more). PJA6LEGBS Paninoteka+ C/D-4, Jurčičev Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)41
NEW

photo courtesy of cheffem.com

256 714. Ljubljana’s most famous sandwich shop has finally reopened its doors after a lengthy renovation, and now includes a full-fledged restaurant and café (in addition to the original soup and sandwiches of course) on the expanded premises. The à la carte selection leans towards the Italian, with homemade gnocchi and ravioli standing out, but also offers a handful of Slovene favourites, and the constantly changing daily lunch specials are a good value. The warm cosy atmosphere is also conducive to dropping in for an evening drink or dessert. Q Open Mon-Thurs 08:00-23:00, Fri 08:0024:00, Sat 09:00-24:00 and Sun 09:00-22:00. Sandwiches €3.10-3.80. Main dishes €7.50-18.60. PJABW

little sceptical of places that ignore the unwritten rule prohibiting different cuisines from being prepared in the same kitchen, so it was with a leery tongue that we approached the newest establishment to join the fray on Petkovškovo Nabrežje - as burritos, pizzas, pastas, steaks and a full English breakfast all feature prominently on the menu. Lucky for us our scepticism proved to be unfounded yet again. Although nothing we’ve tried has really impressed us, neither has it disappointed, add in good service and a great location and you have a winner. Q (€5.50-13). JBS pizzeria.jurman@siol.net, www.jurman-sp.si. Located on the outskirts of town, this popular family-friendly gostilna packs in the locals with a menu that seems to have a bit of everything and a somewhat kitschy atmosphere that manages to include knights, a waterfall and an video arcade all under the same roof. The logo features a waiter sprinting hands full to someone’s table, and true enough the waiters are hurrying around making sure everyone is seen to quickly whether they are inside or out near the children’s play area. It’s a good budget-conscious option and the food isn’t half-bad either. They’ve also recently opened am adjacent bar that’s already quite popular with the locals. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-12). PTAULVGBS

DOK 19 D-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 19. We’re always a

Jurman N-3, Zaloška 151, tel. (+386) 51 358 358,

Plato C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1230 84 80, plato@ siol.net, www.plato.si. Located right in the centre of town next to one of Ljubljana’s most recognisable modern buildings - a twisting white office tower that takes some interesting architectural liberties - this newer restaurant is something of an oasis above the bustling square below. The lunch-time only menu is international with a focus on light and healthy Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and can change daily depending on what is in season or just especially fresh that day at local markets. If you’re not too keen on the day’s set menus you can also order à la carte, although if you haven’t had a chance to brush up on your Slovene you may need one of the attentive waiters to translate. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€4.5 - 22). PTJAGBXSW Pri Vitezu C/D-4, Breg 20, tel. (+386) 1426 60 58, www.privitezu.si. Exquisite restaurant, widely recognized as one of the city’s best. Though expensive (and we mean expensive, you can spend a fortune here) it still offers great value for money to people for whom high class food is paramount. We recommend everything on the menu, as well as the daily lunch menu which your waiter will recite to you. We especially like the Caesar Salad: slightly different to what you might be used to and all the better for it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€8-50). TJA6UGBXS
(+386) 1251 71 64, sales@hotelslon.com, w w w. hotelslon.com. Officially one of the best restaurants in the city (they have an award to prove it), the eatery at the Best Western Slon is well worth your time. The central location, the delightfully simple - mainly Mediterranean - menu and the outstanding service all help to make it special. Try and bag one of the tables overlooking the lounge: among the most sought-after in the city. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 24:00. PTJHAULGKW

Slon C-3, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1470 11 00, fax

Manna C/D-5, Eipprova 1a, tel. (+386) 1283 52 94,

info@kulinarika-manna.com, www.kulinarika-manna. com. This high-class and expensive restaurant bills itself as heavenly food here on earth, and as soon as you enter the interior positively glitters. The menu features some of the most rarefied ingredients Slovenia has ever seen such as Japanese wagyu beef as well as a full selection of both Slovenian wines and some of the best wines and

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Smrekarjev Hram D-3, Nazorjeva 2, tel. (+386) 1 308 19 75, www.gh-union.si. Another of Ljubljana’s upscale eateries, Smrekarjev Hram features a wide menu and a long wine list, made up of exclusively local bottles with the sole exception being French champagne for those particularly special occasions. Make sure you leave room for a main and a dessert, where you can select from a range of fish or meat dishes such as grilled sea bass or beef in goose liver sauce, finishing off with raspberry pie or baked fig with vanilla ice-cream. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (€14-50). PT� JA6ULEGBSW Sputnik Cosmic Caffe I-4, Tržaška 128, tel. (+386) 1
42 32 372, fax (+386) 1 25 66 795, dobrodosli@sputnik. si, www.sputnik.si. Modern and trendy, yet welcoming and unpretentious, Sputnik may be more known as a nightlife venue for Ljubljana’s up and coming elite, but during the day it’s a popular breakfast and lunch time stop for out-of-town businessmen, white collar workers with offices nearby, and even the odd student who appreciates a subtle ambiance. The menu changes daily, but it tends to lean towards lighter Mediterranean fare with pastas, soups, salads and the like. One of the warm breakfasts accompanied by a strong espresso is a great way to start a day. Q Open Mon-Thur 06:00-24:00, Fri 06:00-02:00, Sat 07:00-02:00 and Sun 08:00-22:00. PALEBW

in a variety of languages. The menu is comprised entirely of seasonal specialities and changes daily, with exotic offerings such as bear meat appearing from time to time. The only downside is the price, easily topping €50 per person for a proper meal with wine. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.

Italian

422 88 40, www.katrca.si. Specialising in Tuscan cuisine, this century-old inn has a menu that puts most of its competition to shame. Going well beyond the run-of-the-mill noodle and sauce offerings, this is the place to tuck into some truly fantastic creations, such as pasta with prawns, bacon and chilli pepper or truffle and honey risotto. The meat dishes are also a cut above most, with horse, turkey and wild boar taking centre stage. The recently renovated premises also include several spacious and well-equipped rooms upstairs (singles €65, doubles €85). QOpen 07:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (€6.50-27). PALG

Trattoria Katrca J-3, Rožna Dolina I/26a, tel. (+386) 1

JB D-1, Miklošičeva 17, tel. (+386) 14 33 13 58/ (+386) 14 74 72 19, info@jb-slo.com, www.jb-slo.com. Firmly entrenched as one of the best restaurants in town, this fine dining experience comes courtesy of founder and head chef Janez Bratovž (hence the name). Located in one of Jože Plečnik’s more imposing secessionist-style buildings, JB attracts a mix of well-to-do locals and visiting businessmen guaranteeing you the chance to eavesdrop on conversations Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Allegria C-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 1 426 74 02, info@ allegria.si, www.allegria.si. Tucked away in a courtyard behind a large terrace, this long-running Ljubljana eatery has recently shifted the focus of its menu to the Mediterranean, with an extra emphasis on Slovenia’s coastal regions. Seasonal specials are regularly offered, with the most popular dishes finding a home on the permanent menu - the recent Days of Karst Cuisine has contributed a traditional risotto using Jamar sir (a cheese aged in caves) for example - and the entire menu is naturally complimented by an excellent wine list. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 17:00. (€7-19). PTJA6UEGBSW ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Mediterranean

restAurAnts
Azur I-4, Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 1 423 24 23, www.azur-tratorija.si. A Ljubljana institution since 1994, Azur recently underwent some noticeable changes. Gone is the trademark bright orange façade, which has been replaced with more muted tones and reflects a generally improved level of quality and sophistication, and an expansive wine list, full multi-course daily lunch specials and a more professional staff all cater to the business crowd that keeps the placing buzzing during the day. Of course the award-winning pizza has remained unchanged, and the location still makes for a convenient stop on a trip to or from the nearby zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€4.90-14.90). PTAULGBS
of the area you’re eating in. Find it hidden away down the stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€4-6). TJA6ULGBXSW

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Imperio Mexicano M-2, Šmartinska 152/G, tel. (+386) 15 23 31 65, fax (+386) 15 23 31 66, info@ imperio.info, www.imperio.si. Decent and good value if not award winning Tex-Mex food, where our only gripe would be that the cheddar used on the nachos was not the best. Great cocktails, an outsdnaing house white, and great big portions of all your Tex-Mex favourites: the chicken tortillas were particularly good. For big groups shopping in City Park, you can’t do much better. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. PTA6ULVGSW Joe Pena’s C-3, Cankarjeva 6, tel. (+386) 1 421 58 00, bienvenido@joepenas.si, www.joepenas.si. A combined cantina and cocktail bar with a fine garden to boot, they’ve got it just right, from the general scruffiness of the place through to the smell of limes and cumin that hits you as you open the door. The food’s pretty good, being the standard Mexican dishes as found throughout the world including fajitas, enchiladas et al, plus there’s a decent menu of vegetarian options to keep everyone happy. One of the best atmospheres in the city that’s guaranteed to please all but the fussiest of patrons. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (€3-14). PTJA6GBSW

Mexican

Pizzeria Osmica C-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 14 26 58 72, www.osmica.si, info@osmica.si. Located on the narrow pedestrian street that runs parallel to Čopova, Osmica is essentially the pizza and salad annex of the longer-running Allegria in the courtyard around the corner. An impressivelooking menu of twenty salads and perhaps twice as many pizzas are on offer in a comfortable faux-rustic setting - think lots of wood and stone with an open kitchen. We stop by for lunch quite a bit, and have yet to be disappointed. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€4.707.80). PTJA6UBSW Trta D-5, Grudnovo Nabrežje 21, tel. (+386) 1 426 50 66, trta@s5.net, www.trta.si. Trta is the most frequently heard answer to the question: Who makes the best pizza in Ljubljana? - and not without good reason. Its wood-fired oven churns out some truly delectable pies, which tend to be a bit more substantial than most of the thin-crusted competition. Our personal favourite is probably the Toskanska, with rocket and pancetta among other toppings, but with over 40 different pizzas crowding onto the menu you won’t be left wanting for choices. Located in a yellow house along the right bank a short walk south of the city centre, Trta comes highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PAGBS

Pizza
Arguably the world’s most ubiquitous food, Ljubljana’s selection of pizzerias should be more than sufficient to satisfy the most demanding connoisseurs of the cheesy flat bread.

Foculus C-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1 421 92 95, foculus@siol.net, www.foculus.com. Magnificently decorated once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large wood-fired pizza oven. The large and busy Foculus specialises in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight with seafood. The salads are also particularly good. The place can get rather hectic in the evenings, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait a few minutes for a table. It was also recently named Best Pizzeria in Ljubljana by IYP readers. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€5.70-8.40). PTJAUGBS Parma B/C-4, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+386) 1426 82
22, www.picerija.net/parma.htm. A quirky little one, this. As well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here is done at the large bar from where the food is cooked and served. Find an empty stool, make your order and away you go. And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a look at the large photographs on the wall of the construction

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restAurAnts
Smith’s C/D-2, Dalmatinova 2, w w w.smiths.si. Ljubljana’s premier gourmet sandwich shop now has a second location under the Ajdovščina commercial centre just off Slovenska. Choose from a dozen or so combinations of fillings - our personal favourite is probably the Surf & Turf with chicken and shrimps - as well as the type of bread, or create your own and pay per ingredient. You’ll never be able to settle for pre-packaged vending machine or supermarket sandwiches again. QOpen 06:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€1.55-3.60). JVS

Slovenian
In a way, there’s no such thing as Slovenian food - with sheep and cows on its mountain pastures giving meat and milk products, the Mediterranean providing fresh seafood, and with influences from the Balkans, Austria and Italy, you might as well call it world cuisine. One thing that is unique is the gostilna, the traditional, rustic, family-owned Slovenian inn providing affordable and honest homemade food that would make your granny grin. 256 56 54, zmauc@siol.net. Only opened at the beginning of the year, with its low arched ceilings, moody red walls and touch of rustic furnishings this homey low-key restaurant has already become one of our favourite places to come when we’re in the mood for traditional Slovene cuisine it a great setting. Fresh homemade dishes of all sorts are are the speciality here, including deer, fish and wood-baked meats, and the menu changes daily depending on the season and whims of the head chef. Even the beer, juice and brandy is homemade, and there’s also an excellent selection of Slovene wines. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€6-18). PJAI

Gostilnica Rimska XXI B-4, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 1

Quick Eats

Backwerk D-2, Slovenska 52. Founded in Düsseldorf

in 2001, Backwerk was Europe’s first self-service bakery and in the past decade has quicky expanded to nearly 200 franchises across five countries (not to mention having its business concept copied by countless others). The Ljubljana shop follows already popular outlets in Maribor and Novo Mesto, and proves that Slovenes are willing to pay a premium for tasty high-quality baked goods - although its location next to the city’s busiest bus stop probably doesn’t hurt either. QOpen 06:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. S

Falafel E-3, Trubarjeva 40/(+386) 41 64 01 66, www. alja-shaar.com/falafel.htm. A tiny little place churning out delicious falafel-based delicacies plus the usual array of pizzas and burgers. An excellent choice for vegetarians on the move, expect long queues during the busy lunchtime period. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (€1-7). JA6UVGS Frks C-3, Kongresni Trg 6, info@frks.si, www.frks.si.
The place just opened so it may be a little earlier for such lofty pronouncements, but as far as we’re concerned this tiny take-away on Kongresni Trg makes the best wraps in town. The menu isn’t overwhelming in terms of options, but most of what they do have are exotic concoctions of ingredients that we never would have thought of putting together - that’s probably why they make tasty wraps and we write travel guides. Q Open Mon-Tues 08:00-01:00, Wed-Sat 08:00-06:30 and Sun 17:00-24:00. (€2.50-4.50). JS

Mencigar Nobile F-4, Zarnikova 3, tel. (+386) 1 439 70 40, www.mencigar-nobile.com. Across the road from St Joseph’s Church, Mencigor Nobile is a wonderfully unpretentious restaurant specialising in traditional food from the Prekmurje region of northeast Slovenia. The three dining areas, known as the Glažar, Janc and Goričko rooms are decorated with classic folk motifs and cooking utensils and are, as are the clientele that frequent them, as a diverse as it gets. A popular place for coffee and a break with teenagers and workers during the day, the evenings see a slightly classier crowd descending for the excellent, good value food and occasional folk-related nights of entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€6-21). PTAGB Olimeja K-1, Veroškova 55, tel. +386 (0)41 875 990.
NEW

Taking its name from the owner’s small picture-perfect village in the far east of Slovenia, Olimeja is somewhat ironically located on the ground floor of shiny new office tower in the west of Ljubljana. Catering mainly to the business lunch crowd, the food is roundly excellent and a notch or two what you will find in similar establishments. The house speciality is Olimski sir, a soft white cheese that is usually grilled or served wrapped in prosciutto. For those driving, there is ample free parking, and the premises are also a popular location for corporate and private events - enquire with the manager for rates and availability. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€4-10). PHALEBW

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restAurAnts
Špajza D-5, Gornji Trg 28, tel. (+386) 1 425 30 94. An exceedingly classy affair with chunky, creaking wooden floors, a number of different rustic-feel rooms to eat in, an extensive menu of Slovenian and international dishes, and an antique silver cash register in the entrance. Located on one of the old town’s quaintest most photogenic streets, it’s popular with many people including business professionals, tourists and couples. During the summer months they have one of the most romantic courtyards in Ljubljana. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€7.50-15). JAGBS Vodnikov Hram D/E-3, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 12 34 52 60, vodnikov.hram@gmail.com, www.vodnikovhram.si. Named after Valentin Vodnik, who’s widely regarded as one of the first Slovene poets and journalists and also lends his name to the adjacent square, it’s one of the better known places to sample traditional Slovenian cuisine in Ljubljana. Dining under its vaulted brick ceilings is a recommended experience, as is grabbing a coffee or ice cream on the terrace while you’re waiting for the nearby funicular railway to ferry you up to the castle. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€5-28). PTA6ULGSW
you busy for a good hour and a half for less than €10. Check their website for details about upcoming Flamenco shows, which are usually held every couple of weeks. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (€4-23).

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Vegetarian

www.satwa.si. This popular vegetarian café is tucked away in a cute little courtyard just off Trubarjeva, a busy pedestrian street. Colourful is the first word that springs to mind when you enter, with bright walls and table cloths decorating the dining room and outdoor terrace. Food-wise there are loads of choices: everything from soups, sandwiches, tortillas and even lasagne to fresh fruits and juices, cakes, milkshakes and smoothies. It’s all served ‘pick and mix’ style from a canteen with every kind of vegetable you can imagine - and probably even some you can’t. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€2-6). PJABS lovinghutslo@gmail.com, www.lovinghut.com. The world’s fastest growing (and perhaps only) international vegan fast food chain, Ljubljana now has its own Loving Hut express stand. Formerly located just down the street from the Social Sciences Faculty on Aškerčeva, it has since moved to the south of the city near the Tuš shopping centre in Mestni Log. Operating under the motto ‘Be veg, go green, 2 save the planet!’, it’s not only a healthier choice compared to most of the standard fast food options, but is also reasonable priced. We still haven’t tried one (and quite frankly don’t understand the point), but the veggie kebaps come highly recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. (€1.50-5.50). JS

Ajdovo Zrno D-3, Trubarjeva 7, ajdovo.zrno@gmail.com,

Loving Hut B-4, Koprska 72, tel. (+386) 70 631 500,

Don Felipe E-4, Streliška 22, tel. (+386) 14 34 38 62, info@donfelipe.net, www.donfelipe.net. Ljubljana’s only proper Spanish restaurant would likely stand out even if had some competition. Lots of exposed wood and worn floors give the place a charming rustic feel, and the service is excellent (if not overwhelmingly fast during peak hours). A lengthy tapas menu is complimented by an equally extensive wine list, and the daily three-course lunch special should keep

Spanish

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December 2011 - January 2012

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CAFÉs
Symbol key
P Air conditioning J City centre location H Conference facilities L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms D Sauna W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted T Child friendly R Internet K Restaurant C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi décor. A great place to come and study, use your laptop or just surf the net. Try the excellent coffee and sandwiches. Great service too. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Cacao D-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 3, tel. (+386) 1430

U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre

Ljubljana’s café culture has always been one of our favourite things about the city. When the weather’s nice the entire old town is abuzz with activity at the pavement cafés that line nearly every street. During the colder months things move indoors, but thanks to the national smoking ban you’re still apt to find a fair amount of patrons outside huddled under heat lamps and blankets puffing away on coffee’s significant other. The most popular places can be found along the Ljubljanica on Cankarjevo Nabrežje and Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the opposite bank, but with so many options to choose from just wandering around until you find a place you fancy is never a bad option.

17 71, www.cacao.si. If you like ice-cream, and who doesn’t, then this is your place. Along with the usual coffee, tea, wine and beer, Cacao serves up scoops of ice-cream which you can enjoy indoors or out on the terrace. Fruit and ice-cream is around €5 a serving and if you want a bit of a kick with your cream, go for one of the alcohol-spiked varieties such as Rio (Baccardi and blue curacao) or Brasil (tequila, minus the worm). There are also plenty of child-friendly shakes and servings available but if you are planning on going to Rio you might want to bring the babysitter. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. sumertime 08:00 - 00:00 PTJA6UGBSW plato@siol.net, www.plato.si. A stylish café offering a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes and tiny tarts in a unique glass-walled space right in the centre of town, its outdoor seating area is a fine place for some people watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also a restaurant upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more than a snack you may want to inquire about what’s on offer that day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. for restaurant from monday till friday 11:00-17:00 saturday and sundar closed (€2-3). PTJA6GBKXSW

Café Plato C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1 230 84 80,

Bazilika Shop & Cafe D-2, Miklošičeva 22, tel. (+386)

41 530 539, www.bazilika.si. Right next to the courthouse and in one the busiest areas of Ljubljana, this café is the closest thing you’ll find to an oasis in the city. As soon as you enter, you’ll feel how you leave the bustle, noise, and gray of the city behind and are welcomed by very soothing oriental music and

47 07. Smack bang next to the cathedral, this unpretentious spot, clearly pandering to the trade from the local market, rarely hears an English voice, making it well worth more investigation. Find a small selection of beers, wine and spirits and the most extraordinary white chandelier. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TJAUGS

Čez Cesto D-3, Ciril Metodov Trg 12, tel. (+386) 1470

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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CAFÉs
10, cha@siol.net, www.cha.si. When it’s all just to much, it’s tempting to just plonk down and have a cuppa. That’s exactly what Cha offers - a fine place to relax and watch the world hurry by, while you much around with teabags. There’s a choice of black, green, herbal and falvoured teas, with exotic tastes well catered to. The classy porcelain crockery adds to the special feel of the place. An on-site shop sells the dry version too. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. TJA6UGBSW

35

Cha (Čajna Hiša) D-4, Stari Trg 3, tel. (+386) 12 52 70

Coffee Project D-3, Mali Trg 1. Hidden behind the popular stretch of Trubarjeva, this tiny and very new coffee shop has big ambitions. It serves Turkish brewed for the discerning coffee drinkers and in the beer department it has the distinction of offering not only the two ubiquitous and watered-down national beers but also a selection of homemade ones. Ask a local to guide you there and they just might join you in something new. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 15:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJ6ULEGBXW Drago F Tinta D-4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 27. Named after
the late Slovene-Chilean author, the cultural credentials of this riverside café are beyond reproach. In addition to bi-monthly art exhibitions and Saturday morning book readings, there’s also an informal ‘leave one, take one’ book exchange boasting a more diverse selection of English language titles than most of the city’s bookshops. Throw in the high ceilings, comfortable bench-style seating, free Wi-Fi and laid back soundtrack and this place seems destined to become a favourite amongst the university hipster crowd. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. PJBSW

Dulcis Caffe M-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. (+386) 1 585 22 56/(00386) 1 585 50 18, info@dulcis.si, www. dulcis.si. Located at the market (Tržnica) in the BTC shopping complex and styled after a classic French patisserie, Dulcis prepares some of the most delectable traditional sweets and home-baked goods around. One of their specialities is a cake made with apricots, herbs and aromatic cinnamon, which they claim is an aphrodisiac. It’s definitely worth a stopping by if you find the need to satisfy your sweet tooth while out for a day of shopping. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. PTA6LVBSW Izložba K-2, Bežigrad 12, barizlozba@gmail.com. A cosy little café hidden a few steps off Dunajska Cesta. The compact interior looks like something you would find in Sarajevo’s old town, with lots of well-worn wood furnishings and Turkish-style seating on benches covered with pillows and cushions of assorted fabrics, colours and sizes. However, the real highlight here is the large courtyard in the back with ivy-covered walls, a giant tree sprouting through a hole in the floor and of course a back entrance to the art gallery next door (izložba translates to exhibition in English). QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. JBXW
82 33, info@slamic.si, www.slamic.si. Translating simply as CoffeeTea, the hugely popular café inside the Slamič B&B serves excellent coffee and a wide range of teas as well as cakes and puddings in abundance. As well as the nice ground floor venue there’s a larger area upstairs and an all-year terrace. 1,20e QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. PTJA6UGBSW

KavaČaj Slamič C-2, Kersnikova 1, tel. (+386) 1433

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ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2011 - January 2012

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CAFÉs
Kavarna Maček D-4, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386) 14 25
37 91, macek@lj-kabel.net, www.macek-lj.si. Reassuringly scruffy after so many good-looking places in the area, gurgle down some tea, coffee or something a little stronger in the safe confines of four bright orange walls decorated with some nice black and white photographic portraits of both people and Ljubljana itself. Extremely popular with families toting young children during the weekends. Q Open 09:00 - 00:30. TJA6UG� BSW 1 6200 260. Just opened at the end of last year, Kavarna Rog has already become one of our favourite cafés around - and not only because it’s a 30 second walk from our flat. Located along the Ljubljanica below the old Rog bicycle factory, the café is one of the few places in town where you can find a proper breakfast, and the lengthy menu of gourmet soups, sandwiches, salads and desserts (not to mention wines) makes it a popular lunchtime stop. It stays open late as well, and the dark and moody modern interior is perhaps best suited for a drink than anything else. Q (€3-9). JABW 1430 12 18, www.kavarna-tromostovje.si. Here near Plečnik’s famed Tromostovje (Three Bridges), alongside the river, you can get a real feeling of the pulse of the city.This open-air café is blessed with perhaps the best location in the city and as such it seems to always be full with locals and tourists sitting with a coffee, enjoying great ice cream, soaking up local color, and sometimes even watching a daytime concert on the square. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. TJ6UENBXSW

Le Petit Café C-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel.

(+386) 1 251 25 75/(+386) 51 605 400, info@lepetit. si. On a leafy yet bustling square, tables of bubbly locals and clued-up visitors drink coffee, tea and look utterly Parisian without even trying. Every other cafe in Ljubljana wants to be this place, and it is easy to see why. What’s more, it is not even expensive: big omelets and tasty toasted sandwiches all come in at around €3.50. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PT� JA6UGBSW

Kavarna Rog F-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 67, tel. (+386)

95, www.neboticnik.si. After being shuttered for nearly a decade, the best views in the city are once again open to the public. Occupying the top floor of Ljubljana’s famed Nebotičnik (or Skyscraper) building - which was the highest residential structure in Europe when it opened in 1933 - the terrace’s 360 degree views from Alps to the castle to the hills in the south are truly breathtaking, and the coffee and cakes aren’t bad either. This is a must see stop for all visitors. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. 664. Translating as ‘by the traffic lights’, be welcomed in several different languages on the fascias on entry, then choose to sit either upstairs or downstairs depending on what takes your fancy. Lively, upbeat music provides a soundtrack for all manner of pierced teenagers to sit around and plan revolutions over a limited selection of coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, spirits or beer. Scruffy and fun indeed. Don’t forget to leave your granny in the hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TJ6UGBXSW seum), tel. (+386) 13 00 87 00. A trendy, industrial-look café attached to the Ethnographic Museum featuring a glass floor, lots of wacky art, coffee, cakes and booze. Too pretentious for some perhaps, but a charming place all the same and certainly a place to meet some of the city’s more interesting characters. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. PT� JA6UGBXSW

Nebotičnik C-3, Štefanova 1, tel. (+386) 5 907 03

Pri Semaforju C-4, Slovenska 5, tel. (+386) 40 893

Kavarna Tromostovje D-3, Prešernov Trg 1, tel. (+386)

SEM Kavarna F-2, Metelkova 2 (Ethnographic Mu-

A spacious but quiet corner café popular with students and workers from the nearby university, it features a menu so full of cakes and other lovely sweet things (like hot chocolates with almost any added flavor you could imagine) that you might find yourself studiously checking out the menu. For those who don’t wish to indulge their sweet tooths, there are also great simple breakfast and snack options as well as a wide selection of hot and cold drinks. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (€1-3). PTJA6ULGBXSW

Kresnička B-4, Rimska 23, tel. (+386) 1251 15 92.

STA Travel Café C-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1 439 16 90, fax (+386) 1 439 16 95, info@staljubljana. com. Connected to the Ljubljana branch of STA travel via a doorway at the back, this centrally-located café is a popular destination in its own right - and it’s not hard to see why. A huge first floor terrace is loaded with comfy wooden furniture including wicker couches and even a couple of sun beds, and despite the proximity to Ljubljana’s main road you can still enjoy quiet drink in the sun. Inside is just as comfortable, and they’ve recently added hot sandwiches, pizzas and other light snacks to the menu. It also wouldn’t be a travel café without the bi-monthly presentations of exotic locales around the globe - check the chalk board for upcoming events. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PJ6UGBXW Zvezda C-3, Wolfova 14, tel. (+386) 14 21 90 90, kavarna.zvezda@siol.net. A bustling café frequented by a battalion of clients from students to pearl-laden old ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the direction of your classic Buddha lounge, with a scattering of Oriental statues and some fine brown velvet wallpaper. Not the cheapest café in town, your money is at least well spent. The coffee is strong enough to wake the dead, and the cakes are some of the best and stickiest in town. They also have a second location on the ground floor of Hotel Slon. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Slovenska 34 open: 08:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. (€2,80-3). PT� JAUGBSW ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

There are worse ways to start a day than with a frothy coffee drink in the sun (especially during the winter), photo by Michel Neven

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

38

nightLiFe
Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late. The place goes positively Mediterranean during the summer, with cafés, bars and restaurants staying open well into the early hours as locals and visitors alike simply forget to go home. All of the city’s squares bustle into the early hours too, with the city’s main square, Prešernov Trg, often still packed with revelers until 03:00. Indeed, Prešernov Trg is something of a focal point for Ljubljana nightlife, with most of the city’s best bars, clubs and cafés nearby. Also note that this is by and large a very easy going city, and is no such thing as a no-go zone. Do not worry about walking home on your own late at night.

Bars
In Ljubljana there’s a bar for everyone’s taste. While we’ve decided to give Pubs and Wine Bars their own categories, you’ll find pretty much every other kind of bar in town listed here - from dive bars and hipster hangouts to some truly classy affairs, and everything in between. Note that as in most European cities there is a fine line between a café and bar, with plenty of establishments easily fitting into either category, which means that most of the places here open early and serve coffee, and you can also get a beer or spirits at most cafés. 93 93, bikofe@gmail.com-, www.bikofe.com Situated on a sloping cobbled lane opposite the central univeristy building, BiKoFe is something of a Mecca for hipsters (or at least the European equivalent), students, artists and the like. The outside terrace is crowded from open till close - thanks at least in part to the ban on smoking indoors - and the entire place gets packed most nights, with an atmosphere more akin to a house party than a bar. Q Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6UBXSW

Bi-Ko-Fe C-4, Židovska Steza 2, tel. (+386) 14 25

Symbol key
P Air conditioning J City centre location H Conference facilities L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms D Sauna W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted T Child friendly R Internet K Restaurant C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi

U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre

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The biggest party of the year will be on 15 December when David Guetta returns to Arena Stožice

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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nightLiFe
Čupiterija D-3/4, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 59 712 368,
cupiterija@gmail.com. This place may be located on Mestni Trg in the heart of Old Ljubljana, but don’t let that fool you: it’s the epitome of funky - in a good a way. First of all it also goes by the name Hijo de Puta, a mildly vulgar Spanish phrase (if you’re not sure what it means we don’t want to ruin the surprise). Then there’s the interior, a dizzying hodge podge of Gaudi-inspired colours and textures spreading through several rooms and multiple levels. It’s also one of the only places in town where we feel obligated to forego our usual beer and whiskey and order cocktails to go along with the free nightly tapas. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PJAGBS

39

Green Moon E-3, Poljanska 3, tel. (+386) 30 349 877, green.moon.lj@gmail.com. The first and only Mayanthemed cocktail bar in Ljubljana, no expense was spared in getting the details right and turning what was formerly a basement dive bar into a fun place to come drink, dance and party. Most of the four dozen or so cocktails on the menu contain Agwa, a centuries old Bolivian liqueur made from coca leaves - yes, those coca leaves - and can be ordered in 1L and 1.5L pitchers for those who are especially thirsty. Definitely try one of the Slovenia-inspired house speciality drinks like the Soča or Patria (and if you’re not from Slovenia google ‘jansa patria’ to see why the latter is a brilliant name). QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. Beers €2-3, cocktails €3.5-6.7, 1L cocktails €12-15. PJABS
BEST OF 2011

the Rabbit a bohemian feel and you can either head into the green gloom or grab a drink and perch yourself at one of the couple of outdoor tables. Recommend for students or those who once were students and want to feel like one again, even if only for an evening, or for those who’ve never drunk absinthe and would like to give it a go. Q Open Mon-Wed 09:00-24:00, Thur-Sat 09:00-01:00. Closed Sun. JA6EGBXW roxly.si, www.roxly.si. It’s all in the timing so they say. Spread over two floors, the Roxly provides a dual function by offering meals by day and music by night. The coffee bar and restaurant is popular during the daylight hours, with a good wine and cocktail list, a menu made up of local and international dishes and a view of the castle from the outdoor dining area. By night, DJs and live music, mainly of the blues and rock varieties, keep this place rolling along until three in the morning, providing a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous dance music found in most late-night venues. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (€6-18). PJAEGBXSW

Roxly D-3, Mala Ulica 5, tel. (+386) 41 399 599, info@

Hugo Barrera D-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 5, tel.

(+386) 40 177 477. Located along the river bank beneath Plečnik’s colonaded Centralna Tržnica arcade, this Latin flavoured club is aimed at an older crowd, or at least those who can appreciate (and afford) a glass of quality single malt scotch from Ljubljana’s most extensive whisky collection. It’s also made a name for itself among Ljubljana’s late night scene with live music at the weekends. Stop by during the day for free Wi-Fi and one-of-a-kind coffee specially imported from Brazil. Q Mon-Wed 07:30-02:00, Thur-Sat 07:30-03:00, Sun 10:00-02:00. PJAEW

40 636 797. With the existing bars and cafés in Ljubljana’s old town already approaching the saturation point, new establishments have to bring something extra to table if they’d like to stick around. For LP Bar, that something extra is the unique space it occupies in a century old building on Novi Trg. The bar is comprised of a long open hall with arched white ceilings and plush couches leading back to the building’s inner courtyard, and a couple of rooms opening off of it with a more traditional bar feel. They also host frequent music and arts related events, and it’s best to check their Facebook page to see what’s happening. Q Open Mon-Thur 08:00-24:00, Fri 08:00-01:00, Sat 09:00-24:00, Sun 09:00-15:00. PJA6BX

LP Bar C-4, Novi Trg 2, tel. (+386) 41 846 457/(+386)

Billiards, Bowling, etc.
Biljardna Hiša C-1, Parmova 25, tel. (+386) 12
36 20 12, qb@siol.net, www.biljardna-hisa.com. Ljubljana’s most popular billiards place is a few minutes walk north of the city centre in Bežigrad. Consisting of one large open space underneath exposed wood rafters the interior feels rather barn-like, which is pretty much exactly what we look for in a pool hall. There’s also a large glass-enclosed self-service smoking area - although unfortunately they have yet to cram any pool tables in there. You can expect at least a short wait for a table at the weekends, so don’t forget to get your name on the list. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. ALX 40, fax (+386) 1 510 39 41, info@bowlingklub300. com, www.bowlingklub300.com. If it’s a good time you need, Klub 300 is a friend indeed any day of the week. Order a ‘žirafa’ for the group (a 3-litre long tube of bubbling local beer which allows you to pour your own draught) and take on your friends or colleagues at the bowling alley, or a game of pool. At the weekends there’s Cosmic Bowling in the evening with well-known local DJs (reservations are pretty much a must). The VIP room is especially suited for business meetings who want to mix work with a bit of fun, and there’s even an Italian restaurant downstairs. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PALGK

Moj Žep C/D-5, Krakovski Nasip 12. With a name like
Moj Žep (which is Slovene for My Pocket) it would obviously be hard for us not to like this place, but linguistic biases notwithstanding we feel confident in saying that it has one of the best terraces in the city, a great staff and a cool laid back vibe - as far as we know it’s also the only bar in Ljubljana that has its own swings. Located along a quiet stretch of the river just off the newly opened Hradecki Bridge, it’s the perfect place to enjoy a cold beer during the summer. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. PJA6B

Klub 300 H-1, Regentova 35, tel. (+386) 1 510 39

Pri Zelenem Zajcu D-5, Rožna 3, www.prizelenemzajcu.si. This is a good place to head to if you want to find a small non-pretentious bar where the locals are friendly. Slowly rotating disco lights and trance type music give ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

December 2011 - January 2012

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nightLiFe
Scratch Rock Bar C/D-5, Krakovski Nasip 4, tel. +386 (0)40 667 796, www.scratch.si. Ljubljana’s only authentic rock bar is owned, operated and patronised by true fans of rock music, which means the music is loud, the tattoos plentiful and the selection of beer impressive. When it comes to the latter the prices are also quite cheap, with Guinness and Kilkenny available for under €3, litres of draught Hirter going for €3.80 and local favourites Laško and Union barely denting your wallet at only €2.10 a bottle. The DIY décor - broken symbols, old concert posters, guitars for sale - is also a nice touch. Q Open Mon-Thur 08:00-00:00, Fri 08:00-01:00, Sat 17:00-01:00. Closed Sundays. PJNGBW
fax (+386) 12 56 67 95, dobrodosli@sputnik.si, www. sputnik.si. Suave, dark and moody, featuring 60s retro furniture with lots of beautiful-looking people sitting on it, ice-cold beer and cocktails, a long, long bar and waitresses with even longer legs. A nice café during the day, Sputnik transforms itself during the evenings into a much buzzier place with occasional special events.QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Fri 06:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PA6ULEGBXW

Sputnik I-4, Tržaška 128, tel. (+386) 51 627 000,

Cvetličarna L-2, Kranjčeva 20, tel. (+386) 590 26 316/(+386) 40 390 623, fax (+386) 590 26 317, info@cvetlicarna.info, www.cvetlicarna.info. More a concert hall than a club, nonetheless Cvetličarna is a good place to check out on Friday and Saturday nights. At other times it opens to host local and foreign bands, often wellknown international and regional acts, as well as stand up comedians, including many English ones, on Mondays and some Tuesdays. The venue itself is big and the atmosphere is usually great. Check their website or Facebook page for a schedule of upcoming events.
BEST OF 2011

Clubs

Gala Hala F-1, Masarykova 24, tel. (+386) 1 43 17

Žmauc B-4, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 12 51 03 24. Ask any tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite bars and they’re almost certain to put this place on the list. Covered in quality graffiti outside and always featuring a huddle of interesting-looking individuals smoking suspiciously large cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude to what’s inside. A smallish L-shaped bar is packed day and night with more strange characters amidst an interior design scheme straight from the pages of a Manga comic. Excellent for coffee or something a little stronger. Highly recommended. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PJA6GB

063, drustvo.kapa@gmail.com, www.galahala.com. As the main concer t venue in Metelkova - Ljubljana’s regionally renowned independent cultural centre - Gala Hala hosts an eclectic range of performances several times per week, including many well-known acts, while functioning as a club on other nights. The state of the art sound system and acoustics make it a popular venue for both performers and audiences, and from May till October a summer stage and garden is also opened behind the main venue, which can accommodate nearly 1000 people. Check their website for a complete list of upcoming shows.

Wine Bars
BEST OF 2011

Dvorni Bar B-3, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. (+386) 12 51

12 57, guinnesspub@siol.net, w w w.dvornibar. net. This large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café during the day and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. There’s a swanky jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented patrons, while the other side is a little more geared towards the restaurant crowd. With upwards of 100 varieties of wine in stock it’s a great place to sample local vintages if you don’t have time to trek out to one of Slovenia’s wine growing regions, and organised tastings are held every second Wednesday from 20:00-22:00. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-15). PTJHA6U� EGBKXSW

Klub K4 B-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. (+386) 1438 02 61, inf o@klubk4. or g, w w w.klubk4. org. If you’re staying in a hotel in this part of town and your bed starts bouncing across the room in the middle of the night, the chances are the culprit can be found inside Club K4. A very student-oriented club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and the DJs play some of the weirdest, hardest stuff in the country. Brilliant stuff. Klub K4 also offers Roza (Pink) Party nights for the gay community. Q Open Tue from 22:00, Wed-Sat from 23:00, Sun from 22:00. Mon closed. Admission €7. PJAG Klub Top A-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. (+386) 40 66 77 22,
info@klubtop.si, www.klubtop.si. Located on the top floor of the Nama department store in the centre of Ljubljana (hence the name), outside it offers some of the best views in the city, while inside the contemporary interior design provides an exclusive ambience that can’t be found elsewhere. There is a full slate of parties throughout the week, with Tuesdays being student’s night, Wednesdays dedicated to RnB, private corporate events on Thursdays, serious clubber beats on Fridays and Black Magic/White House nights every Saturday, when guests are encouraged to wear masks. Q Lounge open Mon-Fri 08:30-20:00. Club open Tues-Sat 23:00-05:00. Closed Sundays. Admission: Free before 24:00 and €6 after. PJAEGBKW

48, movia@siol.net, www.movia.si. The Slovenian Movia vineyards have been producing quality plonk for longer than anyone can remember, and this, their little showcase wine bar in the old town, is a fine place to come and try some of their excellent products. Found slightly hidden away inside a little covered courtyard, Movia is barely bigger than a telephone box, features extremely friendly staff, and even serves a selection of food especially prepared to compliment the wines on offer. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PYJ6UGBX

Movia B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54

KMŠ A-3, Tržaška 2, tel. (+386) 1425 74 80, info@
klubkms.si, www.klubkms.si. If you’re young and a student (or at least look like one), here’s a great place to have some fun with the rest of Ljubljana’s dynamic youth. Numerous concerts and DJ nights are programmed for the weekends and the occasional weekday. Drink to your heart’s content as the booze is by far the cheapest in town. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Closed in August. Admission €0.50. PJA6EGW

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

nightLiFe
Lux Club B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. +386 (0)51 210 000,
info@luxclub.si, www.luxclub.si. Opened in mid-October, Lux is one of the only proper clubs located directly in the city centre, and you’re almost guaranteed to find a party raging until the wee hours most nights of the week. DJs, theme nights and live concerts from some of the region’s biggest stars are scheduled, and scantily-clad Go-Go dancers are often on hand to liven up the atmosphere. A full assortment of drinks and cocktails are a available, but for locals it’s perhaps even more popular to order vodka, whisky or other spirits by the bottle. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PJAG

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Orto Bar E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1232 16 74, info@ orto-bar.com, www.orto-bar.com. A combined bar and live music venue dedicated to the glorious and mostly unpretentious world of rock music, filled nightly with a well-behaved crowd in leather jackets etc, drinking the night away and taking advantage of one of the few regular live music venues in the city. The bar is worth visiting on its own. Long and thin, there’s a line of old turning ventilators along one wall, giving the place a futuristic, Mad Max feel. Q Open Mon-Wed 08:00-04:00, Thur-Sat 08:00-05:00 and Sun 18:00-21:00. PALEGBX
Slovenia enjoys a new life in the EU and puts its Yugoslavian days behind it, in Ljubljana you can still find echoes of the many cultures that made up that old land, and at Zlati Zob the city’s new “ethno-club” those echoes can take the form of a singer’s wail or a throbbing balkan gypsy beat. The cafe/club’s interior, full of Balkan artifacts and traditional instruments hanging off the walls, hints at the raucous nights of music and dancing that occur when the sun goes down and various regional artists and DJ entertain the crowd. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PALEGBXW

Zlati Zob E-2, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 59 13 95 52. While

Guinness Pub B-3, Gosposka 3, tel. (+386) 1426 62 93, www.guinnesspub.net. Enough Guinness mirrors to keep everyone in town high for a week, plenty of comfortable cubby holes and a splendid little summer courtyard in the heart of the student district. Draught beers include Guinness plus Kilkenny and that old English 80s favourite, Woodpecker cider. Friendly and different enough to be worthy of at least a little plaudits, put this one on your pub-crawl list for sure. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PJA6UGBX Parlament Pub C-3, Šubičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1 251 32 43. Knowing neither whether it’s a café or a bar, this peculiar oddity with its books on the shelves, shady characters and (you’ve guessed it) students is nonetheless a popular stop for the heavy drinking younger crowd. Known for cheap beer and cocktails (with 3 of the latter had for the price of 2), and lively international parties almost every night, it’s a great place to both start or end an evening out. The entrance and terrace are at the back side of the building on Plečnikov Trg. QOpen 06:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PJA6UEGBXW Patrick’s Irish Pub D-3, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1230 17 68. Smoking bans can cause many changes to the fabric of a society, not least to the basic atmosphere of the classic Irish pub. Long gone now is the lingering nicotine smog that helped shape the style of this cellar bar, but the overall atmosphere remains more or less intact. Popular with locals, expats and tourists alike, the bar stocks all your favourite Irish tipples, served by a gaggle of cheery bar staff, plus there’s the usual live sport on a big screen. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (€5,50-7). PTJA6EGSW December 2011 - January 2012

Pubs

There’s a good chance you can find live music somewhere in Ljubljana tonight

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nightLiFe

Sir William’s Pub D-2, Tavčarjeva 8a, tel. (+386) 5

99 44 825, sirwilliamspub@gmail.com, sirwilliamspub. webs.com. An all together classier affair than most other pubs in town, Sir William’s clientele is largely a reflection of its location between the national courthouse and Radio Television Slovenia, as well as several business hotels. Billed as a literary café, there’s a selection of English and Slovene language books to peruse or exchange for, and live music (blues/jazz/rock) every couple of weeks. But of course it wouldn’t be a pub without beer and the selection is one of the best in Slovenia - with some 60 varieties in all including over 20 from Belgium alone. Q Open Mon-Fri 08:00-24:00, Sat 10:00-14:00 and 19:00-24:00, Sun 17:00-24:00. PJABSW
BEST OF 2011

Adult Entertainment
Although Ljubljana is a relatively small city, it does make space for sexy and sinful late night entertainment for adults, gays, lesbians, transvestites and so on. There are several strip clubs in Ljubljana that have recently sprung up around the city displaying a diversity of foreign girls for escorting, table-dancing, stripping or just to keep you company if you buy them an (expensive) drink, and we mean €100 for the cheapest bottle of champagne. Clubs usually provide a dance show, often being quite explicit. Escorts in Ljubljana are limited but your hotel can advise you where to find a companion for the night. Although prostitution is not illegal in Slovenia, you would have to look very hard to find any girl working the streets. Of course, we don’t advise that you try as these girls do not necessarily undergo any medical examination. It is best to stick with the more ‘refined’ selection we have on offer in Ljubljana.

12 41 06 96, info@zltim.si, w w w.zlataladjica.si. The ‘Golden Ship’ has lots of vaulted ceilings, pictures of sailing ships, rigging, sails and a DJ booth inside a wooden barrel, the rum selection is surprisingly lacking in variety and there’s not a sailor in sight, but it beats the lacklustre banality of most Irish pubs any day of the week. As well as the main bar area there are also a couple of smaller rooms for more intimate moments, and one of central Ljubljana’s biggest terraces. There’s often €3 drink specials at the weekend - check the signs outside for what’s on offer. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 22:00. PTJA6UEGBKXSW

Zlata Ladjica C/D-4, Jurčičev Trg 1, tel. (+386)

Night Clubs

Klub Slon B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1470 11

Casinos
The automated casino, or gaming saloon, has arrived in a big way - no more croupiers saying rien ne va plus, but no more strict dress code either, though you still won’t get in wearing jogging clothes. You’ll need to be 18 and carry ID to enter.

48, ecarte@siol.net. The most centrally-located adult entertainment club in town in the basement of popular Hotel Slon, this is also the tamest . The small group of girls, who you’ll mostly find fully dressed, do a a few nightly topless cabaret shows. While lapdances and the like are not offered here, when the women are not dancing they are available for some personal interaction. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. PJAGXW

Casino Lev B-2, Vošnjakova 1 (Hotel Lev), tel. (+386) 1 518 56 46, casino.lev@siol.net, www.casinolev.com. Slot machines, gaming tables and some of the best-looking waitresses on the planet in the basement of the hotel of the same name. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. No admission fee. POJHAULEG Casino Rio J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1520 5650, info@casino-rio.si, www.casino-rio.si. A non-stop gambling saloon inside the Arena entertainment centre. Four electronic roulette tables and over 150 other gaming machines vie for your euros. Food and drinks are served, and there’s occasional entertainment too. Q Open 24hrs. No admission. POAG Ljubljana In Your Pocket

18), tel. (+386) 59 95 21 21, info@latino-club.com, www.latino-nightclub.com. With unlimited free drinks and transportation included in the price of admission, Ljubljana’s best nightclub is a great place to party in the company of girls from around the world. As implied by the name, the majority of dancers are Dominican but there are also some Thai and Eastern European girls for the sake of variety. The club is known for great parties and special stag shows at the weekends, usually featuring a couple large snakes or girl-on-girl performance. Located underneath the Arena Play & Party Centre in BTC. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Admission is €20 and includes unlimited drinks and free transportation. PALG

Latino Nightclub J-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala

Many more clubs online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
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whAt to see

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The phrase ‘winter wonderland’ was coined to describe Ljubljana’s old town during December, photo by D. Wedam Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to Ljubljana’s multitude of museums and galleries are more than worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik’s to the historic atmosphere of the Old Town to the occasional blast-to-the-past burst of retro-Yugoslav city planning all work together in harmony to create the most unique of cities.

Tourist Information
L jub lja n a Touri s t I n f or m a t io n C e ntr e (Turistični Informacijski Center) D-3, AdamičLundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) 13 06 12 15, fax (+386) 13 06 12 04, tic@visitljubljana.si, www. visitljubljana.si. A small but extremely well equipped resource with plenty of maps, brochures galore in English, information about what’s on in the city and a range of information on what to see and do in the region. They also organise tours, can help with accommodation, and should be one of your first ports of call when you arrive. Their website is one of the best we’ve seen in Central Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly, informative staff too. Q Open October-May 08:00 19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00. Also at the bus and train station (tel. 433 94 75; open 08:00 - 22:00, Oct-May 10:00 - 19:00, Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday Closed)22 December 2009 - 2 January 2010 Monday to Saturday 8:00-21:00 C-3, Krekov Trg 10, tel. (+386) 1 306 45 75, fax (+386) 1 306 45 80, stic@visitljubljana.si, www. visitljubljana.si. Ljubljana’s central tourist office is a bit larger and usually less crowded than the main branch located a few hundred metres away opposite Prešeren Square, and they also helpfully stock heaps of maps, brochures and general information for the entire country. Tickets for most events in and around town can be purchased, and the staff will gladly give you a run down of the various tours and excursions on offer. Bicycle rentals are also available for only €5 per day, and are a great way to see more of the city.

Bridges

Čevljarski Most (Cobblers’ Bridge) D-4. Another

Plečnik creation, this elegant 1930s bridge is named after the cobblers’ workshops located on its predecessor. Pillars of various sizes stand on the bridge, some supporting lamps, others simply holding stone balls in the air.

Mesarski Most (Butcher’s Bridge) D-3. Connecting the magnificent colonnaded Tržnica covered market with Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the opposite bank, the bridge had been part architect Jože Plečnik’s original plans in the 1930s, but was never built due to the outbreak of World War II. Finally opened in July 2010, the bridge remains somewhat controversial due to it’s modern style (Plečnik had envisioned something of similar appearence to the adjecent market), as well as the grotesque sculptures by Slovene artist Jakov Brdar that were commissioned to decorate the structure. Soon after the bridge opened, it also became home to the endearing and decidely uncontroversial tradition of couples locking ‘love padlocks’ along the length of its steel wires. Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) D-3. Perhaps Ljubljana’s
most characteristic structure(s), the triple bridge is a curious merger of a 19th century road bridge (itself replacing a medieval wooden bridge), with two 1930s pedestrian bridges designed by Plečnik, who took the opportunity to do up the whole ensemble with lamps and stone balustrades.

Slovenian Tourist Information Center (STIC)

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December 2011 - January 2012

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whAt to see
Nebotičnik (Skyscraper) C-3, Štefanova 1. Believe it or not, this lovely little skyscraper was, at 70 metres, one of the highest buildings in Europe when it was built in 1933. The rooftop café and lounge has also finally reopened after being shuttered for nearly a decade - providing some of the best views in the city.

Žale Cemetery (Pokopališče Žale) L/M-2, Med

Cemeteries

Hmeljniki 2, tel. (+386) 1420 17 00, info@zale.si, www.zale.si. Built on the site of a much earlier cemetery attached to the neighbouring (and still standing) Holy Cross Church, what’s arguably Plečnik’s Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in 1940. The grand arched entrance complete with stark white colonnades supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the living and the dead. Between them and the cemetery itself are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound, reflecting Plečnik’s vision of equality among religions. The cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll. The final resting place of many Slovenian greats including Plečnik himself, also find a small area given over to the Jewish population of the city. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.

Churches
As you may have already noticed, the old town boasts a number of famous churches dating far back to the Baroque period under the influence of Venetian architecture. Aside from during mass, most of the main churches are open to the public from 15:00-18:00.

It’s a well-known fact that statues and monuments look better when they’re covered in snow, photo by Adam Currell

Buildings

Mestna Hiša (Town Hall) D-3/4, Mestni Trg 1. The

15th century Town Hall was dramatically altered over the ages, and given a Baroque facelift in the early 18th century. Note the original medieval coat of arms on the building. Inside, you can view the Grand Council Chamber, wedding hall and banquet hall. Tours are available by appointment at the tourist office. Q Guided tours €2.

National University Library (Narodna in Univerzitetna Knjižnica) C-4, Turjaška 1, tel. (+386) 1 200

11 88, info@nuk.uni-lj.si, www.nuk.uni-lj.si. Known to locals by its Slovene acronym NUK, the library was originally established by Empress Maria Theresa in 1774 and moved to its current Plečnik designed building in 1941. Aside from serving as one of the country’s central educational and cultural institutions - containing some 2.6 million volumes -it’s also considered one of the prolific architect’s most monumental works, and is a must see for visitors to Ljubljana. Highlights include the somewhat schizophrenic brick and stone façade, the colonnaded central staircase and the massive main reading room. A planned expansion on nearby Zoisova Cesta has been in the works for nearly 20 years, but has been plagued by a host of problems - most notably caused by the discovery of Roman ruins, which is a surprisingly common occurrence in and around the city. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun.

Cathedral (Sv. Nikolaja) D-3, Dolničarjeva 1, tel. (+386) 1231 06 84. With its classic twin towers and trademark single, weather-worn green dome, the city’s cathedral, more properly known as St Nicholas’ Church, encapsulates everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the site of a much earlier church, the cathedral’s main structure and appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century. Inside the Baroque masterpiece’s pink shell is a cavalcade of classic creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily detailed frescoes and possessing that calming feeling that only a great church can bring. Of particular interest are the ornate choir stalls and Robba’s maginficent angels on the main altar. Don’t forget to check out the astonishing pair of bronze doors on the western and southern sides. Dating from 1996 and commissioned to celebrate John Paul II’s visit to the Cathedral, the former celebrates 1250 years of Slovenian Christianity, and the latter, depicting six cardinals in a row with the figure of Christ lying at the front, the history of the diocese of the city.
C-2, Gosposvetska 9, tel. (+386) 12 52 72 80, evang. cerkev.sl@siol.net, www.evang-cerkev.si. Completed in 1852, this fairly unremarkable church represents much that is classic German (or, to be exact, Austrian) austerity. The simple, single-towered magnolia façade hides a basic interior, most of it made from wood, with a few interesting flourishes. The main organ dates from 1878, and the painting on the main altar is the work of a virtually unknown Austrian by the name of Künnel.

Evangelical Church (Evangeličanska Cerkev)

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ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

whAt to see
Top 5 sights (other than the castle)
Franciscan Church ( Fr a n č i š k a n s k i Samostan) D-3, Tivoli Park A/B-2. Tivoli is where the people of Ljubljana who don’t leave the ci ty spend the weekend. Laid out in 1813 as a place for the general health and recreation of the city’s population, at some five square kilometres, Ljubljana’s gargantuan bucolic lung - literally Mansion-LTB-archive two streets west of the city centre - is so packed with good things to see and do that it’s almost worth visiting the Slovenian capital just to come here. Set amidst rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of lawns (picnics encouraged: something of a shock in this part of the world), pastures, wooded areas and fun adventure playgrounds for the kids (who will love the mini-golf best of all). The best way to enjoy the park is by bike, and bicycles are available for rent from various points throughout the park during the summer. You will need to leave ID as a guarantee you will bring the bike back.
As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the area, Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural sights including the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the glorious 17th century Tivolski Grad (Tivoli Mansion), the Museum of Modern History and, in the park’s far southwestern reaches, in an area designated as a nature reserve, the city’s half-decent zoo. Also look out for the monument to Primoz Trubar at the entrance to the park. Truboz was an early force in Slovene literature and the creation of a Slovene national identity.

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Prešernov Trg 4, tel. (+386) 1242 93 00. Built in an instantly recognisable, mildly swirly Baroque fashion, Ljubljana’s mid-16th-century Franciscan Church dominates Prešernov Trg like a big pink birthday cake. Part of a larger complex with an additional Franciscan monastery, if you’re lucky enough to find the doors unlocked expect a few D.Silpa treats inside including Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charming frescoes dating from 100 years or so later and a chapel notable for containing a cross designed by none other than Jože Plečnik. For those who don’t appreciate the finer points of ecclesiastic architecture, the front steps do at least provide a nice place to sit and watch the world go by on a gloriously sunny day. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

bit.ly/8fmHJp. The centre of medieval Ljubljana, the town’s main square was damaged in the 1511 earthquake and subsequentl y rebuilt in Baroque style. The square houses the Town Hall, City Art Museum, the decorated 16th century Lichtenberg house and the Souvan house with its Empire façade.

M e s t n i Tr g ( To w n Square) D-3/4, , http://

D-3.Formally a meeting place for several roads in front of one of the old entrance gates to the city, and a public square since Ljubljana’s original defensive walls were torn down in the middle of the 19th century, this is one of the city’s most impor tant landmarks. Named after Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (German, Franz Prescheren, 1800-1849), it’s both a popular meeting place (notably under the large statue of the man after whom the square is named) and a site for concerts and events during the summer. The charming little public space is ringed by a number of interesting sights including the magnificent Art Nouveau façade of the Urbanc House, an extraordinary piece of early 20th-century flamboyance and site of the soon to be reopened Centromerkur department store.

P r e š e r n o v Tr g (Prešeren Square)

E-3, Resljeva Cesta. Sin c e i t op en e d in 1901, Zmajski Most has b een locked in a fierce competition wi th the castle and the conspicuously pink Franciscan Church for the title of Most Photo graph e d Si gh t in Ljubljana. At any given moment during daylight hours (and only slightly less frequently at night) there is sure to be at least a person or two clicking away at one of the four large dragons guarding either side of the bridge or the smaller griffins that adorn the bottom of its eight lamp posts. Of course we’re no exception, as we still remember the fog shrouded photo we snapped on our first trip to the city way back in the forgotten days of analogue film. More recently some amateur artiste apparently felt that the mythical beasts were lacking a certain je ne sais quoi and took it upon themself to add a smattering of red paint to their mouths and claws. The jury is still out on whether or not this is an improvement but it does amuse us whenever we walk past.

Zmajski Most (Dragon Bridge)

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Ljubljana Castle
D-4, Grajska Planota 1, tel. (+386) 1 306 42 93, infoc e n te r @l j u b l j a n skigrad.si, www. ljubljanskigrad.si. Perched on top of Castle Hill (Grajska Planota) and dominating the city skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s magni ficent castle stands on the site of several former defensive buildings in a hilly area of land stretching away to the south of the old town. The current ensemble of buildings originates from necessary 16th-century reconstruction work following the earthquake of 1511, with several later additions. Not unlike Kraków’s Wawel Castle in Poland, Ljubljana Castle has served as both a royal residence and a military barracks over the centuries. The current main points of interest for the visitor are the Outlook Tower (Razgledni Stolp), built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m by the communists in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Museum screens a 20-minute film in 3D, viewed with the aid of special glasses and a headset for an English translation, showing an interesting and informative history of the castle. On the same floor find a small door that takes you to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps, each individually decorated with an image of the tower and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to a small viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with wonderful views of the city. Underneath the tower and located down a small flight of stairs tucked away through a doorway in the corner of the courtyard is the diminutive St George’s Chapel (Kapela sv Jurija). Originally Gothic and remodelled in the Baroque style, the chapel is interesting for its 15thcentury wall paintings and not a lot more. A new and beautifully presented permanent Exhibition on Slovene History is now also open for visitors - see more info under Museums & Galleries. The castle also has a small art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions, a café, restaurant and souvenir shop. It’s also a popular place for local weddings, and during the summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a popular outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths lead up from the old town, or take the funicular next to the Puppet Theatre. Q Wintertime hours (1 Oct - 31 Mar): Castle & Funicular Railway 10:00-21:00 daily. Info Centre, Viewing Tower, Virtual Museum & Exhibition of Slovene History 10:00-19:00 daily. Full Combination Ticket (Funicular, Slovene History Exhibition, Viewing Tower, Virtual Museums & temporary exhibitions) €6 for adults, €3 for children, €14 for families .Half Combination Ticket (excludes Funicular) €4 for adults, €2 for children, €10 for families. Full Ticket + Guided Tour €8 for adults, €5 for children. Half Ticket + Guided Tour €6 for adults, €4 for children. Funicular Ticket only (Return/One-way)€3/1.50 for adults, €2/1.30 for children, €7.50/3.50 for families.

Holy Trinity Church (Cerkev Svete Trojice) C-3/4, Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski Grad)

Slovenska 21, tel. (+386) 12 52 48 64. Constructed to a design by Carlo Marinuzzi between 1718 and 1726 from a commission by local merchant Jakob Schell von Schellenburg, and with all the usual additions over the centuries, this imposing Baroque marvel dominates the area it’s located in not least for its unusual, gabled rooftop façade. Part church and part monastery, the former’s interior is somewhat restrained, its main outstanding feature being a Francesco Robba altar, carved from African marble around 1740. The main steps date from the 1930s and are the work of our old friend Plečnik.

Or thodox Church (Pravoslavna Cerkev) B-2, Prešernova, tel. (+386) 1252 40 02. Built alongside the southwestern perimeter of Tivoli Park in 1936 to serve the city’s Serbian community, this wholly unremarkable church complete with all the usual ostentatious details, is worth visiting during services, daily at 10:00. St Joseph (Cerkev Sv. Jožefa) E-4, Zrinjskega 9, sv.jozef@rkc.si, jezuiti.rkc.si/jozef. Following the earthquake of 1895, the religious folk of Ljubljana vowed to get together every Easter to pray that such a terrible thing would never happen again. From 1914 these liturgies were celebrated inside this large and extraordinary-looking church, which was completed in the same year. Built by the Jesuits, the building was confiscated by the communists in 1949 and subsequently handed over to the state film industry who, in a nutshell, wrecked the place. Now back in the hands of the Church, renovation work is ongoing. The half-coffered, half-domed ceiling and everything underneath is now intact, but much work and filling-up remains. Several interesting Yugoslav-era photographs of the building can be found inside the porch. St Peter (Cerkev Sv. Petra) F-3, Trubarjeva 80, tel.
(+386) 12 31 79 65. The heritage of the Roman Catholic St Peter’s Church goes back long before this building was completed in 1733, with a number of churches standing on this spot for some 500 years before Giovanni Fusconi’s superb Baroque designs were realised. Inspired by the great churches of Venice, much has been changed over the centuries, including Neoclassical additions following the 1895 earthquake and the construction of a new façade, complete with interesting fish details over the doors between 1938 and 1940 by the local architect Ivan Vurnik. Many changes have been made inside as well, including much work by Vurnik’s wife, Helena. Points of particular interest include Franc Jelovšek’s magnificent frescoes and several altar paintings by Valentin Metzinger. 521 836, judovska.skupnost@siol.net, www.jewishcommunity.si. Inside the headquarters of the Jewish Community of Slovenia, the small synagogue was the last synagogue to open in a European capital city and dates from 2003. The city has no rabbi; the chief Rabbi for Slovenia is Mr Ariel Haddad, who is based in Trieste, Italy. The synagogue is not usually open to the public, but visits can be arranged in advance.

Synagogue (Sinagoga) A-4, Tržaška 2, tel. (+386) 12

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Monuments
Old Ljubljana is the city’s historical part of town and practically a monument in itself. Fountains, the town hall, some restaurants and local designer shops are located in old buildings that are very well preserved. The Triple Bridge “Tromostovje” is one of Ljubljana’s trademarks designed by Joze Plecnik. “Zmajski most “ or the Dragon Bridge is another main bridge in Ljubljana, guarded by four detailed dragon statues, which became the symbol of the city. But the most prominent of all, the medieval Ljubljana Castle was built on a prehistoric site on top of a hill, which dominates the cityscape. You can go up by a funicular railway for €2-3.

Robba Fountain (Robbov Vodnjak) D-3, Mestni

Trg. One of the most famous landmarks in the city, this lovely 1751 fountain is named after its creator, the Italian Baroque sculptor Francesco Robba (1698-1757), and is also known as The Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers. It was the last of Robba’s Ljubljana creations. The eight years it took him to complete it essentially bankrupted the man, and he finally left the city for Zagreb. Based loosely on the grand fountains of Rome, the artist’s masterpiece features three river gods, supposedly representing the Krka, Ljubljanica and Sava rivers.

France Prešeren D-3, . Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (1800-1849) stands in the square named in his honour at the foot of the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an interesting visual treat, the monument also serves as a focal point for people meeting in the city. Erected in 1905, the large monolith is the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and sculptor Ivan Zajc and features the Muse of poetry holding a small laurel of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts from his writing around the base. Puppet Theatre Clock D/E-3, Krekov Trg 2. Every hour between 08:00 and 20:00, puppets pop out of the clock at the top of the Ljubljana Puppet Theater building, accompanied by music. First, Kobilica the horse shows up, followed by Krpan, carrying a knife; when he raises it, the horse hurries back inside with Krpan in pursuit - a scene taken from the puppet show that opened then new theatre in 1984. Krpan has been chasing Kobilica around the clock and delighting children since 1992. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Museums & Galleries
While Ljubljana’s museums and galleries are likely not the top reason for most visitors coming to the city, the breadth and scope of what’s on offer is more than enough to keep you busy for days on end.

City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) C-4, Gos-

poska 15, tel. (+386) 1241 25 00, info@mestnimuzej. si, www.mestnimuzej.si. A magnificent museum run by a team of historians who know how to show people a good time, showcasing Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history. Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this is the best place in town for a crash-course in city history. Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate costumes, old photographs and much more besides. Check out the fabulous little website for upcoming exhibitions. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/2,50. English-language guided tours Sun at 13:00.

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whAt to see
Museum of Contemporary Art F-2, Maistrova 3, info@
NEW

mg-lj.si, www.mg-lj.si. Along with the Slovene Ethnographic Museum and a branch of the National Museum, the recently opened Museum of Contemporary Art rounds out Ljubljana’s newly christened Museum Quarter located between Metelkova and Tabor in the centre of the city. Nearly two years of renovations has transformed the former administrative building into the city’s most dynamic arts space, with rooms of all shapes and sizes situated around a vaulting central atrium. The museum is focussed on works from the 1960s to the present day, and boasts a permanent collection devoted to Eastern Europe’s postwar avant garde movement, as well as a selection of works from its sister institution, the Museum of Modern Art. Definitely a must-see for art fans. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5 adults, €2.50 students/pensioners, €3.50 groups. Tomšičeva 14, tel. (+386) 12 41 68 00, info@mg-lj.si, www.mg-lj.si. Following a lengthy renovation, the doors of Edvard Ravnikar’s Plečnik-inspired building have finally reopened to the public. Continuing on from where the National Gallery stops, the city’s excellent Museum of Modern Art houses a fine collection of Slovenian and international 20thcentury art. Q Open Tues-Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission €5 for adults, €2.50 for students/ pensioners. No admission fee first Sunday of every month.

Museum of Modern Art (Moderna Galerija) B-3,

Idria
Although we’re sure that this gentleman is a professional, it nevertheless seems a foolish idea to turn your back on a dragon whilst handling a man-sized piece of raw meat www.idrija-turizem.si. Situated amongst the rolling hills of the Goriška region only a short drive west of Ljubljana, the town of Idrija is packed with unique natural, historical and cultural attractions and makes a great day trip from the capital. When most Slovenes hear the name Idrija, two words quickly come to mind: lace and mercury. However, the town and its surrounding countryside have much more to offer visitors, as was proven earlier this year when it received the prestigious European Destination of Excellence (EDEN) designation. For outdoor enthusiasts, the largely pristine natural environment is criss-crossed with various well-marked hiking trails and cycling paths, some of the Slovenia’s best fishing spots, and terrain that is perfect for cross-country skiing during the winter season. The region also boasts a rich culinary heritage, that is most known for being the birthplace of the Idrijski Žlikrofi, a small savoury dumpling filled with tasty mixture of meat, vegetables and spices. Of course no trip to Idrija is complete without visiting the town’s famous mercury mine. After continuously operating for nearly 500 years from its discovery in 1497, the oldest section of the mine (called Anthony’s Shaft) is now open to the public for guided tours, while the nearby Idrija Municipal Museum (located in Gewerkenegg Castle) was awarded the title of best European museum of technical and industrial heritage in 1997. The town’s other must-see attraction is its world-renowned school of lace, which produces an unbelievably wide range of exquisite lace products. For more information and help in planning your trip, check out the Idrija’s official tourist website (www.idrijaturizem.si), and keep an eye out for our upcoming Idrija In Your Pocket guide, which is slated for publication in the middle of 2012.

www.muzej-nz.si. If you needed a reason to visit Tivoli Park, it’s here. This fascinating museum inside a wonderful 18thcentury mansion presents the history of Slovenia from the period around the start of WWI until independence in 1991. Using a combination of well-presented exhibits including old photographs, clothing and household items the museum charts the often wobbly path of the nation through and between the two world wars and the difficult and truly fascinating post-war communist years. The building itself is worth seeing alone, being a marvellous combination of original Baroque and the interesting modernist work of the Slovenian architect Jurij Kobe, dating from 1991. Q Open Tues - Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3.50 for adults, €2.50 for children, €8 family.

Contemporary History Museum (Muzej Novejše Zgodovine) B-1, Celovška 23, tel. (+386) 13 00 96 10,

1 (Ljubljana Castle), tel. (+386) 1 306 42 93, slovenskazgodovina@ljubljanskigrad.si, www.ljubljanskigrad. si. This beautifully presented exhibition takes visitors on a whirlwind tour of Slovenia’s long and fascinating history, from prehistoric times through independence and the present day. The exhibition is divided into six historical time periods: prehistory and the Romans, the Middle and early Modern Ages, the 19th century and WWI, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and WWII, Yugoslavia and finally independence and beyond. Located across three floors within Ljubljana Castle, the exhibition showcases original items, replicas, interactive content and various fun and informative multimedia presentations. It’s a must-see for tourists and another reason for locals to pay the castle a visit if they haven’t been in a while. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission €4-8 for adults, €2-5 for children and €10-14 for families when combined with other sites at the castle.

Exhibition of Slovenian History D-4, Grajska Planota

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building itself. Organised into both a living recreation of how and where Plečnik lived and a fascinating insight into his often revolutionary ideas, exhibits include recreations of everything from his kitchen, bedroom, bathroom and countless examples of original drawings and models. The museum can only be visited as part of a guided tour. Q Mon & Fri 10:00-15:00, Tues, Wed & Thu 10:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-15:00, Sun and holidays closed.There are only guided visits on the hour. Up to 7 visitors at a time allowed. Last tour is one hour before closing time. Admission €4/2.

Cobbler’s Bridge

National Galler y (Narodna Galerija) B/C-2, Prešernova 24, tel. (+386) 1241 54 18, info@ng-slo.si, www.ng-slo.si. Inside Czech architect František Edmund Škabrout’s fabulous late 19th-century neo-Renaissance masterpiece with an additional modern wing thrown on for good measure, this above-average gallery features the very best in Slovenian art from the 13th century up to the first half of the 20th century, including paintings by such notable artists as Ivan Grohar (1867-1911), Richard Jakopič (1869-1943) and Ivana Kobilca (1861-1926). The other permanent exhibition in the building focuses on European painting, and includes some really fine examples of the Renaissance-period Italian painting through to the more modernist work of the early 20th century. The gallery also contains a small gift shop, which has several good books and postcards. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €7/3.50. National Museum (Narodni Muzej) B-3, Prešernova 20, tel. (+386) 12 41 44 00, info@nms.si, www.narmuzlj.si. Found lurking inside another of the city’s fine, late 19th-century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1841. Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language alongside the usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surrounding regions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €3/2.50, free first Sunday of the month.
B-3, Prešernova 20, tel. (+386) 12 41 09 40, uprava@ pms-lj.si, www2.pms-lj.si. Attached to Ljubljana’s National Museum, the Natural History Museum isn’t the best in the world by a long way but it does offer an assortment of oddities to beat the rainy blues away or to simply keep the children amused for a while. Among the many peculiar displays of shells, rocks and an almost complete set of mammoth bones, the human fish is perhaps the museum’s strangest display. Known so for its pinky human flesh appearance, the little proteus anguinus is a blind amphibian found exclusively in a relatively small area including parts of Slovenia, Italy, Croatia and Herzegovina. The gift shop features a handful of fun things for the kids including small build-your-own dinosaur kits. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €3/2.50, free first Sunday of the month.

etnomuz@etno-muzej.si, www.etno-muzej.si. The Slovene Ethnographic Museum (SEM) - a museum “about people, for people”, prides itself as being the link between the past and the present, between our own and other cultures, between nature and civilisation. A central museum of ethnology, a museum of dialogue, open, active and hospitable with dedicated public services. The museum is located in a new urban cultural centre of Ljubljana known as part of former military barracks of the Metelkova area, which have undergone complete restoration, and in the future will form the centre of Ljubljana’s arts scene. Through two permanent exhibitions, diverse annual temporary exhibitions and other events - Slovene, European and non-European - SEM presents and reports on the traditional culture of Slovenia and other cultures of the world in creative and imaginative ways. Find the entrance in the large square at the back of the building. QOpen 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4.50/2.50 (adults/students). Free admission the last Sunday of the month.

Slovene Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Muzej) F-2, Metelkova 2, tel. (+386) 1 300 87 00,

(+386) 12 44 21 88, info@zoo.si, www.zoo.si. A large complex with a good variety of native and foreign animals, the zoo makes for an excellent day out with the kids. A pleasant 30 minute walk through leafy residential neighbourhoods from the city centre or a short ride on bus 23. Guided night tours are available on Thursdays and Saturdays from 21:00-23:00. Q Open daily except 25 Dec, from 09:00-17:00 in Oct and 09:00-16:00 in Nov/Dec. Admission: €6/4.50/3.55/1 for adults/schoolchildren/pre-schoolers/pets, free for children under 2.

Ljubljana Zoo (Živalski Vrt) I-3, Večna Pot 70, tel.

Parks & Gardens

Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni Muzej)

Squares

Trg Republike (Republic Square) B/C-3, . The political

centre of modern Slovenia, this square houses the brutalist 1960 parliament building, two equally delicate office towers and the Cankarjev dom centre.

Tours
The Tourist Information Centre should be your first stop if you’re interested in any kind of city tour. They offer a variety of scheduled tours for individuals, and can arrange even more for groups with a bit of advanced notice. Prices and itineraries are also clearly listed on their site, so you’ll know exactly what you’re getting. Almost every hotel in the city offers guided tours of one sort or another as well. Some are good, others just a way of making money. You should be able to spot the scams without too much difficulty.

Plečnik House (Plečnikova Zbirka) K-4, Karunova

4, tel. (+386) 12 80 16 00, pz@aml.si, www.aml.si. The Slovenian visionary architect Jože Plečnik lived in this house from 1921 until his death in 1957, making this brilliant monument to the great man and his work poignant for both its immediate connection with him as well as being the building in which he did most of his work, much of it on the actual

Yuhey tourist agency N-3, Zaloška 143, tel. (+386)

40 813 677, info@yuhey-slovenia.com, yuhey-slovenia. com. A smaller locally-based tour agency that works in cooperation with several hotels and hostels as well as the Tourist Information Centre. They can arrange a variety of day trips and excursions throughout Slovenia.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Around LjubLjAnA
Where to stay
Ambient Aškerčeva 6a, 1230 Domžale, tel. (+386) 82
00 20 00, info@ambienthotel.si, www.ambienthotel.si. This recently opened hotel in the quiet suburb of Domžale is some 12km north of Ljubljana and offers great access to those wishing to explore Slovenia’s alpine regions. Surrounded by greenery the hotel has a fresh modern appearance and its tastefully designed rooms are fitted with all the modern comforts. Free transportation from the airport can be arranged, as can use of conference facilities, a large picnic area, beach volleyball court and various Thai massages for additional charges. Q 70 rooms (singles €50-80, doubles €70-130, suites €160-240). HA6LBDW hhh

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Gostišče Pri Poku Podpeška 1-3, Brezovica pri Ljubljani, tel. +386 (0)1 365 74 10, fax +386 (0)1 365 74 15. Serving travellers on the main road from Vienna to Trieste since the late 18th century, Pri Poku is one of the most storied accommodation options in or around Ljubljana - legend has it that Napoleon Bonaparte even spent the night here whilst visiting his recently acquired Ill yrian provinces. While recent years have seen the place completely renovated and brought up to modern standards, the cosy rooms maintain a timeless traditional quality, and the premises also include a small conference centre, restaurant and wine cellar. Q (singles €45, doubles €70, suites €70-90).

Gostišče Pri Poku Podpeška 1-3, Brezovica pri Ljubljani, tel. +386 (0)1 365 74 10, fax +386 (0)1 365 74 15, www.pripoku.com. Dating back to the late 18th century, Pri Poku is officially one of the oldest restaurants in Ljubljana, and perfectly combines its over 200 years of tradition with all the modern comforts and service that one would expect from a top-end restaurant in the 21st century. Guests are pampered with a varied seasonal cuisine, which - like Pri Poku itself - combine age-old family recipes with modern tastes, and an emphasis on fresh, home-grown organic ingredients. To get there you can either take a brief trip on the motorway to the Brezovica exit, or simply follow Tržaška Cesta a few kilometres southwest of the city. Q Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00, Sat-Sun by prior arrangement. PTAIL

Where to eat

Technical Museum (Tehniški Muzej) Bistra 6, Bistra Pri Vrhniki, tel. (+386) 1 750 66 70, info@tms. si, www.tms.si. A bit of a drive to get to this one, but if tractors, fishing rods, tools of every possible size, shape and application, guns, odd metal boxes that possible work on steam and thousands of other similar contraptions and devices tickle your trumpet then get thee to the tiny village of Bistra, or rather its lovely old castle and grounds. Other points of particular interest include an eccentric collection of Tito’s old cars and a permanent exhibition dedicated to printing and the written word in Slovenia, including an interesting hotchpotch of machines and tools used in the printing process. Sundays see the place turn into a working museum, complete with demonstrations of lots of sharp, fast-turning and essentially dangerous tools. Pack your protective goggles and head 30km southwest out of Ljubljana on the main A1 highway and take the Vrhnika turnoff. The museum is a few kilometres south of here along road 642. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/3. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com December 2011 - January 2012

What to see

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shopping

Large swathes of the old town are transformed into an open air market during December, photo by D. Wedam One of the great things about Ljubljana is the fact that you can shop the old-fashioned way: strolling the city centre’s streets, ducking in and out of any number of high street stores, local brands and cute little boutiques. A number of stores have locations on the streets that abut the river, making this - if we’re honest - one of our favourite shopping cities in Europe. The main shopping streets in the city centre are Mestni and Stari Trg at the base of Castle Hill, Trubarjeva, Wolfova Ulica and Miklošičeva on the opposite bank. There are also plenty of stores in the grid of streets between Slovenska Cesta and the river. If you like want a mall experience however, head out to BTC City, a couple of kilometers from the city centre on the road to Maribor. Besides an enormous mall (City Park) there are also a number of warehouse-like outlets stores, as well as a water park and entertainment city.

Department Stores

Mladinska Knjiga C-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386) 1241 36 80, konzorcij@mk-trgovina.si, www.mladinska.com. The flagship store of Slovenia’s largest book retailer, it has by far the largest selection of English language books in the country including a fairly impressive travel section. There’s usually at least one table of heavily discounted tomes if you’d like to pick up something cheap to read and aren’t too picky. They also operate smaller shops on seemingly every other street in Ljubljana, which mostly stock stationery supplies. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Books

76 68 74, info@maxi.si, www.maxi.si. Slovenia’s most storied department store recently received an extensive interior makeover, bringing the modern shopping experience to the heart of the city centre while still maintaining the building’s landmark façade. Cosmetics, accessories, men’s and women’s fashion - including collections from several noted Slovene designers - are spread across the top three floors, whereas the basement level is home to arguably the country’s best supermarket. Several other shops, boutiques and restaurants are located in the brightly lit underground arcade on the same premises. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Midas C-2/3, Ajdovščina 3, tel. (+386) 13 00 46 00, info@midas.si, www.midas.si. A trade house on four floors of Midas offers global brands in the world of fashion such as: Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Dior, Jimmy Choo, Moncler, Paul Smith, Giorgio Armani, Diesel, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Bluamrine and Givechy. Clothing, footwear, bags and other fashion accessories to impress most fashion enthusiasts. There’s also a selection of children’s fashion including items from Gucci, Prada, D&G and Hugo Boss. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Nama C-3, Tomšičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1425 83 00, info@ nama.si, www.nama.si. Just southwest of the Slon hotel, this well established department store provides several floors of clothing for men and women, plus household items and somewhere to eat in the basement. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Maxi Market C-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 14

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shopping
Stories Design D-4, Koroška 62b, Velenje, tel. (+386) 59 208 945, info@stories-design.si, www. stories-design.si. The Primeval Expressions collection of glasses for water and spirits is a superb, completely Slovenian handmade product, designed by Mateja Krašovec Pogorelčnik. The crystal and fine crystal glass is made by Steklarna Rogaška, a globally recognised traditional crystal producer. The glass is complimented and softened by the delicately shaped base made from 2.5 million year old petrified wood, or ksilit, a wonderful natural material carefully obtained by Premogovnik Velenje from waste sections of mined beds. The uniform mellowness of the base accentuates the beauty of the once living structure of tree rings preserved through millions of years. Q Orders by phone are accepted Mon-Fri from 07:00 to 15:00. Some items are also available at the Rogaška shop on Mestni Trg in Ljubljana’s old town.

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Design

Fashion
Ljubljana is home to a selection of renowned international brands, unique boutiques and its very own Slovenianmade designer clothing, so you shouldn’t have any trouble finding something surprisingly original. 43 07 740, info@andcamicie.si, w w w.and.it. The well-known Italian manufacturer of designer men’s and women’s shirts has finally come to Slovenia - with a store opening earlier this year in Ljubljana city centre. Their range covers everything from formal business attire to casual weekend wear perfect for a relaxed walk around town, and the Spring/Summer 2011 collection has been inspired by the lives of ordinary people - with each shirt having its own story. A selection of fashion accessories, such as scarves, handbags and jewellery is also available. QOpen 09:00 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Galerija Emporium D-3, Prešernov Trg 5a, tel. (+386) 1 30 84 210, info@galerijaemporium.si, www.galerijaemporium.com. After nearly a year of renovations, this luxury department store opened in the beautiful Art Nouveau Urbanc Building in September 2010. Located right on Prešeren Square, Galerija Emporium is a shoe and accessories Mecca, offering over 20,000 shoes from some 100 different brands, more than 2,000 bags, and five floors of designer clothing from the world’s top names for both men and women. And even if you’re not in need of any clothing or accessories, the building itself is worth a look. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. H & M C-3, Čopova 2, tel. (+386) 12 41 04 20. Four floors of affordable Swedish-designed fashion on Ljubljana’s main pedestrian street. They also have another large store in City Park. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Hibrid C-2/3, Štefanova 3, tel. (+386) 41 698 777, info@hibrid.si, www.hibrid.si. The only place is Slovenia to find the newest fashion trends from some of the world’s hottest designers, Hibrid is a one of a kind boutique located on the ground floor of Ljubljana’s famous Nebotičnik Building. The owner Romain, is a French expat and certified fashion aficienado who personally selects the top names from Paris’ bi-annual Fashion Week, including Dior Homme, Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin and Croatian-born Damir Doma. While the selection is technically men’s only, women are also frequent patrons, and as the name suggests there’s a full range of items from business suits to casual wear as well as shoes, sunglasses and other accessories. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

AND Camicie C-2, Gosposvetska 6, tel. (+386) 1

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Slovenian designer fashion
Cliché C-4, Novi Trg 6, tel. (+386) 1 42 63 152, Marina Rinaldi D-2, Dalmatinova 11b, tel. (+386) 14 33 04 85, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. The theme of Marina Rinaldi’s ever-elegant collection this season is luxury, with a leading role given to exclusive materials such as cashmere, camel hair and alpaca. A separate evening line called Giorno emphasises feminine lines with precious colours and lace in the foreground, while skin colour remains a hot trend, as well as strong colours combined with black. It is ideal for the tall or plus-size modern woman with a sophisticated yet casual sense of style who wishes to display her femininity in a fashionable but edgy and mysterious way. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Max Mara D-3, Miklošičeva 6, tel. (+386) 1 426 58 80, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. When entering Max Mara, words like ‘elegant’, ‘sophisticated’ and ‘classy’ inevitably spring to mind. The shop positively glows with these qualities, offering a diverse range of nicely presented, luxurious ladies’ attire. Staff are always nearby to assist if needed but keep a polite distance, allowing you to browse without feeling any pressure. A highlight is the subtle yet striking Sportmax range, which presents high fashion at its highest while retaining an innovative individualism. This year’s Autumn/Winter collection found inspiration in the classic British look, and features traditional materials transformed with new technology, innovative dimensions and unexpected combinations. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Studio Hosiery D-2, Miklošičeva 10, tel. (+386) 1 430 25 77, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. Studio Hosiery’s range of beachwear, shirts, stockings, socks and tights and other Max Mara bodywear mean that between it and neighbouring stores like Tru Trussardi and La Perla, you can outfit yourself in the most trendsetting attire from the ground up, as it were. A perfect place to begin, or conclude, your upmarket shopping spree. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Tru Trussardi D-3, Miklošičeva 7, tel. (+386) 59 074 299, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. Like its nearby sister stores, Max Mara and La Perla, Tru Trussardi offers a range of women’s clothing at the cutting-edge of fashion, but also caters to the style-conscious man, with a sophisticated range of male clothing. This season the guiding line of the men’s collection is the dynamics of motorcycles and travel - emphasising a look of utility with both the materials and design. The Autumn/Winter 2011/2012 collection combines two perspectives: urban military-style and diplomatic style. While the former draws on ideas from militaristic designs and colors, the latter is focused on elegance, drawing inspiration from the British neo-formal school. QOpen 09:00 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

info@cliche.si, www.cliche.si. Ljubljana-based Cliché Jelena Leskovar is one of the most intriguing fashion labels in the so-called ‘new Europe’. The designs are all created using a principle of FQ, or Fashion Intelligence Quotient, which promotes the longevity of forms and compatibility of pieces from new collections with previous ones. The label’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection, called pillow.talk, features colourful knee and and ankle length dresses, high-waisted skirts, pants and jeans, and a line of light metallic hooded jackets and waterrepellent coats. Cliché’s shop and gallery on Novi Trg offers both collections from its own brand, as well as complimentary accessories from designers based in Europe, the US and Japan. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

info@morris.si, www.morris.si. While iBlues may sound like Apple’s new line of designer anti-depressants, it’s actually one of the diverse brands of the Italian-based fashion house Marella, which is known for its sensual and feminine designs and fascinating use of shapes and colours. iBlues’ Autumn/ Winter 2011/2012 line is composed of three basic themes - Blow Up, New Wave and Love Story - each of which has a slightly retro look and focuses on the playful relaxed elegance that is the trademark of the brand. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Kipling C/D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 12 51 10 10, bags. si. Fine, mainly leather, goods (luggage, handbags, purses) for ladies who lunch. Besides the headline leather there are also big print bags, which, as its summer in Slovenia, feature something of a nautical theme. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 14:00. La Perla D-2, Miklošičeva 7a, tel. (+386) 1 434 00 60, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. La Perla’s new Autumn/ Winter 2011/2012 collection was inspired by the styles of the 1920s, specifically that one of that decade’s most acclaimed literary works: F Scott Fitzgerald’s classic novel the . Great Gatsby. Underscored by themes of subtlety, transparency, femininity, glamour and attraction, the story’s emotional weight has been transferred to the La Perla line in the form of Art Nouveau lace, feathers and animal prints.A range of styles and colours makes La Perla lingerie an ideal gift for that special (and pampered!) lady in your life. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Mandarina Duck C/D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 12 51 10 10, bags.si. Exquisite handbags and leather goods for the glitterati, including items for women, men, travel and work. Look out for the shop window full of wooden ducks. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Marella C-3, Slovenska 28a, tel. (+386) 1 426 92 44, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. Marella has a fun, youthful feel that makes it a comparatively relaxed environment in which to outfit yourself with the latest high-end clothing. The brand was conceived in 1973 to offer fashionable, top quality clothing at affordable prices. This tradition has continued, and Marella’s beautifully designed clothing is within the financial reach of the discerning, professional ‘everywoman’. The Autumn/Winter 2011/2012 collection is based on the somewhat risqué themes of Opium and Jazz, which use austerity and subtlety to bring out the a sense of discreet sensuality. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

iBlues D-2, Miklošičeva 7, tel. +386 (0)590 74 294,

You can never have too many purses, or so we’ve been told

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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shopping
XYZ M-2, Šmar tinska 152g (BTC, Citypark), tel.
(+386) 1 548 3619, xyz-citypark@sportina.si, www. sportina-group.com. One of the region’s largest fashion retailers, the Sportina Group, opened its newest store in Citypark earlier this year. The XYZ concept stores aim to offer premium brands - over 40 in all, including such names as Armani, Burberry, Zenega, D&G, Galliano, Juicy Couture - in a sophisticated design-oriented environment. Extra-large fitting rooms, lounge areas and specially selected music are standard features, and the stores frequently play host to special events. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

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Flowers
The best place in the city to buy flowers is the small alleyway running behind the Cathedral between Vodnikov Trg and Pogačarjev Trg. You’ll be able to find a dozen or so vendors hawking their colourful wares from early morning till late afternoon. The flower market is one of the only places in Ljubljana where a bit of haggling will be rewarded, and if you show up around closing time you may even be able to pick up some still passable bouquets for free.

Gifts & Souvenirs
Take a little something of Ljubljana home with you or for your family. Keep an eye out for products carefully made by local artists and designers often depicting the beauty of Ljubljana within paintings, crafts, embroidery, ornaments, photography, clothes and much more. (+386) 15 19 92 86, info@benedict.si, www.cukrcek. si. A charming, family-run business with three shops in the city, Čokoladnica Cukrček has been delighting adults and making children happily sick for a decade and a half. Among the many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Piranske Soline D-4, Mestni Trg 19, tel. (+386) 1425 01 90, www.soline.si. Times have changed since Roman soldiers were paid in salt but this mineral still ranks as one of life’s essentials. Here at Piranske Soline the canvas bags that fill the windows and the shelves are full of the stuff. There is salt for cooking, including the famous Piran salt, hand-scraped from coastal deposits, along with salted chocolates and a wide range of salt-related accessories such as salt mills and containers. And if all the walking you’ve done has made you a little weary, you can pick up some pick-me-ups in the form of bath salts and scrubs. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Trgovina Ika D-3, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. (+386) 1 232 17 43, info@trgovina-ika.si, www.trgovina-ika.si. RoIka puts the creativity of local Slovene artists and fashion designers in the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting a wonderful selection of products such as paintings, ceramics, jewellery and fashion. You can pick up great souvenirs here as a lot of the products represent the beauty of Ljubljana in artistic forms, or if you’re looking for a unique garment or piece of art, you’ve come to the right place. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Čokoladnica Cukrček D-3/4, Mestni Trg 11, tel.

Jewellery

1 421 77 40, draguljarna@malalan.si, www.malalan. eu. With over 60 years of tradition the Malalan family is one of the most respected retailers of haute jewellery and watches in Slovenia. First opened by Angelca and Anton Malalan near Trieste in the years following WWII, they moved to Ljubljana some 20 years ago, and are now located in a beautiful showroom on Mestni Trg. In addition to well-known and exclusive international brands, you can also find their own creations, such as the recently released Old Ljubljana line - which is designed to capture the spirit of Ljubljana’s old town. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Draguljarna Malalan D-4, Mestni Trg 21, tel. (+386)

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ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Toko D-3, Nazorjeva 1, tel. (+386) 1 421 48 85, fax (+386) 1 421 48 80, info@toko.si, www.toko.si. In Slovenia the name Toko has been synonymous with the production of top quality leather goods for over 60 years. Now with 14 stores across the country, in recent years it has expanded it’s range to include business and travel bags from the likes of Samsonite, Lacoste, American Tourist and Antler, in addition to its own line of ladies handbags, wallets, belts and other small leather accessories. In Ljubljana you can find them both in the city centre (on Nazorjeva Ulica behind the Franciscan Church) and BTC (in Hala A). QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. December 2011 - January 2012

Luggage and travel

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district housing some of the best known local and international companies. There’s free parking for more than 8,500 vehicles too, all just a couple of kilometres out of the centre of the city in the general direction of Maribor. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Citypark M-2, Šmartinska 152g, tel. (+386) 1 587 30 50, info@citypark.si, www.citypark.si. Boasting over 120 stores of all shapes and sizes, Citypark is Slovenia’s largest shopping centre, and the best place to find pretty much whatever you need while in Ljubljana. Besides the massive variety of stores - such as XYZ, K&O, Big Bang, Desigual, Hervis, H&M and an Interspar hypermarket - there is a terrific choice of places to eat, from Burger King to Thai food to traditional Slovenian. Unlike the city centre parking is never a problem, and there’s even a large children’s play area to keep the kids occupied. Find the Citypark page on Facebook to stay up to date with new openings and events. Please note: During the month of December Citypark offers shoppers extended hours, staying open till 22:00 Mon-Sat and 17:00 on Sun. See its website for full holiday hours. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Supernova M-6, Jurčkova 223, tel. (+386) 14 28 88 83, info@supernova.si, www.supernova.si. Ljubljana’s newest shopping centre is located on the outskirts of the city in Rudnik, and offers plenty of space to leave your car while you go enjoy spending your hard-earned cash. Check out the all-you-can-eat sushi place, which is great value for your money. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Truffles don’t come cheap, but they make an excellent gift (especially if you’re buying something for us)

Music Shops

59 024 126, koromandija@t-2.net, koromandija.si. A small and somewhat eccentric music store located in the Old Town along the Ljubljanica, Koromandija specialises in hard to find world, ethnic, folk and alternative tunes. Or, in their own words: “Music that cannot be found on the Internet, music that invigorates; music, which is a feast for the eyes, music for all tastes and all occasions, music outspoken, music, music that surprisingly as of yet has not been heard - music from all corners and places of the world!” Vom Second Hand C-3, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 12 52 79 21, vom@vom.si, www.vom.si. A tiny shop found down an equally small alleyway and brimming with a large selection of mostly but not exclusively second-hand vinyl and CDs. Music on offer includes classic rock and some gems from some of the stars of the former Yugoslavia. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Koromandija D-4, Galluosovo Nabrežje 29, tel. (+386)

Sports & Recreation

Intersport C-3, Šubičeva 2, tel. (+386) 1242 77 57,

Photography

29 00, info@fotograd.com, www.fotograd.com. A small but decent selection of accessories plus developing and passport photographs on request. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Foto Tivoli C-3, Cankarjeva 7, tel. (+386) 14 22 36 30, info@foto-tivoli.si, www.foto-tivoli.si. One of the better photography shops in the city centre, selling not only the usual supply of cameras and accessories but also a wide range of photographic paper and chemicals. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Foto Grad D-1/2, Miklošičeva 36, tel. (+386) 14 39

intersport@mercator.si, www.intersport.si. Everything you need from table tennis balls to skis. Sports fashion too. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Patrick Sport K-2, Celovška 34, tel. (+386) 14 39 10 15. Whether you are skier, you love hiking or any of the sport activities that are popular in Slovenia, you should check out this specialised store. A small sporting goods store with a wide selection of equipment for various activities. They concentrate on brands of very high quality like the Kelme brand of football apparel and Hi-Tech gear for the outdoorsy types. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Tax free shopping
If you’re a resident of a non-EU member state, you’re eligible to take advantage of tax free shopping while visiting Slovenia. If you spend over €50 at any shop displaying the Global Refund ‘Tax Free’ logo, they can issue you with a special Refund Cheque when you pay. At shops that don’t officially participate in the program, you’ll need to ask for a special invoice for foreigners - you can still get the refund, it just involves a little more red tape. When you leave the EU just show the item you purchased and relevant paperwork to a customs official, who will give you the necessary stamps. You can then receive cash or credit at any of the many Global Refund Offices around the world - at Ljubljana’s Brnik airport this is located at the news agents in the check-in area. However, before making any extravagant purchases assuming you’ll receive a 20% discount, make sure to double-check your departure info, especially if you have a layover in another EU country on your way home. Not all customs offices are open 24 hours, so depending on the time and length of your layover, it may be next to impossible to get the official stamps you need.

Shopping centres
Ljubljana may boast more shopping centres per capita than any other city in Europe, with even more scheduled to open over the next several years. Most are located on the city’s outskirts near the ring road, including the largest, BTC and City Park, in the northeast, Rudnik in the south and Mercator Centre in the northwest.

BTC City M-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15 85

22 22, info@btc.si, en.btc-city.com/. The biggest thing of its kind in the country, the positively humungous BTC features not only some 450 shops selling everything you could possibly imagine, but also boasts restaurants galore, bars, a post office, multiplex cinema, indoor go-cart racing, a comedy theatre, billiards, volleyball courts, an enormous water park, conference facilities and its very own business

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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LiFestyLe direCtory
Aesthetics Dentistry
Labod I-1, Cesta Ljubljanske Brigade 33, tel. (+386) Mehurček Viška 54, tel. (+386) 1256 77 08. Operi in Posuši M-2, Beblerjev Trg 2 (TC Mercator), tel.
1518 43 26. +386 (0)41 38 66 22, info@zobozdravnik.org, www. zobozdravnik.org. This family-owned and operated dental practice has locations in Celje, Ankaran and of course Ljubljana. They offer a full range of services from the standard dental examinations, plaque removal and teeth whitening to more advanced surgical procedures such as endodontics treatment, fillings, implants and prosthetics. Their Ljubljana office is located in an easy-to-find complex north of the city centre with ample free parking. QOpen Mon 13:00 - 19:00, Thu 08:00 - 13:00.

Estetsko Zobozdravstvo L-2, Peričeva 27, tel.

(+386) 64 116 341, operiinposusi.si. Ljubljana’s first selfservice laundry facilities are located in the Mercator centre shopping complex opposite the main northern entrance to BTC City. Washing cost €3, and drying is €1 for 20 minutes, and there’s even free WiFi. Q Open Mon-Fri 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-17:00 and Sun 08:00-12:00.

Libraries
1200 11 88.

City Library (Mestna Knjižnica) C-2, Kersnikova 2, Narodna In Univerzitetna Knjižnica (National & University Library) B-3, Turjaška 1, tel. (+386)
tel. (+386) 1600 13 00.

Beauty & Wellness
44 300. (+386) 1588 2600.

Kalliste Slamnikarska 3b, Domžale, tel. (+386) 1 72 Sense Welness Club B/C-3, Dunajska 154, tel. Sončni studio body line C-3, Poljanska cesta 15, tel. Sončni studio Sun vision J-2, Nove Fužine 47, tel.
(+386) 40 780 036.

Massage

(+386) 40 165 031. Venustas K-4, Ziherlova 8, tel. (+386) 1 283 26 61.

Clinics

42 07 00.

Barsos-MC B/C-4, Gregorčičeva 11, tel. (+386) 12 Health Centre Metelkova F-2, Metelkova 9, tel. Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna dolina J-4, Rožna Dolina
IV/45, tel. (+386) 1477 94 00. Zaloška 2, tel. (+386) 1522 50 50.

(+386) 1472 37 00.

University Medical Centre Ljubljana F/G -2,

Gorice, tel. (+386) 40 20 20 84. Masažni Center Akson G-3, Povšetova 12, tel. (+386) 40 579 518. Masažni Kotiček (Massage Corner) H-1, Dunajska 111a, tel. (+386) 51 236 833. Moments Salon K-4, Barjanska 52, tel. (+386) 1 283 25 86. Shiatsu v Ljubljani F-4, Poljanska 18, tel. (+386) 40 584 699. Studio Lotus Pelechova 18, Radomlje, tel. (+386) 40 466 579. Tajska Masaža K-1/2, Dunajska 101, tel. (+386) 51 67 66 97. Thai Sabai D-1, Dunajska 9a, tel. (+386) 31 310 075.

Felicitas K-2, Peričeva 17, tel. (+386) 40 701 632. Lepotni Salon Kliše Cesta na Drenik 35, Pijava

Cobblers
241 282.

Aleš Cevljar E-2, Bavarska Steza 5, tel. (+386) 40

Opticians
1251 41 56. 02.

Mestna Optika C-3/4, Kongresni Trg 9, tel. (+386) Optika FELIKS A-3, Igriška 14, tel. (+386) 1425 00
cesta 223, tel. (+386) 1427 31 03. Optika Zajec B-2, Puharjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 72 82.

Dentists

(+386) 1 565 14 25. Health Centre E-1/2, Kotnikova 36, tel. (+386) 1300 96 74. Health Centre Metelkova E/F-2, Metelkova 9.

Babit K-4, Kolezijska 25, tel. (+386) 1283 23 73. Dental clinic F-3, Zaloška 2, tel. (+386) 15 22 53 46. Dr Sanja Lucija Pečnik K-1, Dunajska 129, tel.

Optika FELIKS, PE: SUPERNOVA J-3, Jurčkova

Hair Salons

Salon Mali C-2, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1434 05 52. Simple, Ljubljana SUPERNOVA J-3, Jurčkova cesta
223, tel. (+386) 1427 40 98.

Central Pharmacy (Centralna Lekarna) D-3, Prešernov Trg 5, tel. (+386) 1244 23 60. Lekarna Ljubljana F-2, Prisojna 7, tel. (+386) 1230 62 30. Lekarna Miklošič D-2, Miklošičeva 24, tel. (+386) 1230 62 52.

Pharmacies

Language courses

Plastic Surgery

C/D-4, 12 Kongresni Trg, tel. (+386) 12 41 86 77. Veris J-1, Stegne 7, tel. (+386) 1 5000 579.

Ars Linguae D-1, Dunajska 10, tel. (+386) 1300 27 11. Center for Slovene as a Second/Foreign Language

Chemo Express C/D-3, Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 1251 44 04. Femiks E-2, Kotnikova 18, tel. (+386) 1230 18 20. Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Laundry & Dry Cleaning

2123/+386 (0)41 630 687, fax +386 (0)1 436 2124, dr.marjan.fabjan@siol.net, www.fabjan.si. With locations throughout Slovenia, Fabjan is one of the country’s leading providers of cosmetic surgeries and treatments. Offering a full range of procedures, performed by a staff of highly-qualified professional doctors using the most modern and technologically advanced equipment, Fabjan is the most trusted name in the field. Prices are reasonable by western standards, and financing can also be arranged for most clients. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Estetika Fabjan L-2, Peričeva 29, tel. +386 (0)1 436

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Banks
Abanka C/D-2, Slovenska 50, tel. (+386) 1300 15 00. Bank Of Slovenia C-3, Slovenska 35, tel. (+386) Deželna Banka Slovenije D-2, Kolodvorska 9, tel. Hypo Group Alpe Adria K-1, Dunajska 117, tel. (+386) Nova Ljubljanska Banka B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel.
1 580 40 00. (+386) 1476 39 00. Raiffeisen Bank C-3, Pogačarjev Trg 2, tel. (+386) 1234 98 18. Skb B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 1471 59 58. Unicredit Banka Slovenija D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 1587 64 72.

Consultants
666.

IQbator J/K-2, Drenikova 33, tel. (+386) 41 690 MM-konto J-1, Devova 5, tel. (+386) 1515 50 22. Par H-3, Tbilisijska 128, tel. (+386) 1423 15 06. Pro-Eco H-1, Vodovodna 99a, tel. (+386) 1565 45 67. Tax-Fin-Lex K-2, Dunajska 20, tel. (+386) 1432 42
43.

1471 90 00.

(+386) 1472 71 00.

Embassies & Consulates
1 234 8675.

Albania M-3, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 1547 36 50. Australia (consulate) K/L-2, Železna 14, tel. (+386) Austria B-3, Prešernova 23, tel. (+386) 1479 07 00. Azerbaijan (consulate) G-4, Mesarska 22, tel. +386

Business centres
(+386) 1307 09 33. (+386) 1477 66 13.

Ljubljanski Univerzitetni Inkubator H-1, Vojkova Poslovni angeli Slovenije H-2, Železna 18, tel. Tehnološki Park Ljubljana J-4, Teslova 30, tel. The Business Center (Virtual Office and Business Center) C-3, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1 4701 690.
63, tel. (+386) 1620 34 80.

Chambers of Commerce
13, tel. (+386) 1589 80 00.

Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Slovenia (Gospodarska Zbornica Slovenije) L-2, Dimičeva

Comshop BTC M-2, Šmartinska 152/G (BTC), tel. (+386) 51 34 59 11. Sosed H-2, Vojkova 63, tel. (+386) 31 610 604. Tech Trade C-2, Vošnjakova 5, tel. (+386) 1434 01 08.

Computers

When the directors of Quality Schools International (QSI) came to Ljubljana back in October for their annual conference, In Your Pocket was happy be their official guide, photo courtesy of Melissa Maples

1 303 21 231. Belgium B-3, Trg Republike 3/ IX, tel. (+386) 1200 60 10. Bosnia & Herzegovina K-2, Kolarjeva 26, tel. (+386) 1234 32 50. Bulgaria K-4, Opekarska cesta 35, tel. (+386) 1 28 32 899. Canada (consulate) B-3, Trg Republike 3, tel. (+386) 1252 44 44. China L-3, Koblarjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1420 28 55. Croatia L-4, Gruberjevo Nabrežje 6, tel. (+386) 1200 44 01. Cyprus D-2, Komenskega 12, tel. (+386) 1 232 15 42. Czech Republic B-5, Riharjeva 1, tel. (+386) 1420 24 50. Denmark C-1, Tivolska 48 (EuroCentre), tel. (+386) 1 43 80 800. Egypt K-4, Opekarska 18a, tel. (+386) 1 308 18 50. Finland C-2/3, Ajdovščina 4/8, tel. (+386) 1 300 21 20. France C-5, Barjanska 1, tel. (+386) 1479 04 00. Georgia C-3, Cankarjeva 7, tel. +386 (0)8 382 65 98. Germany B-3, Prešernova 27, tel. (+386) 1479 03 00. Greece K-4, Trnovski Pristan 14, tel. (+386) 1420 14 00. Hungary Konrada Babnika 5, tel. (+386) 1512 18 82. Ireland E-3, Poljanski Nasip 6, tel. (+386) 1 300 89 70. Italy B-4, Snežniška 8, tel. (+386) 1 426 21 94. Japan B-3, Trg republike 3/ XI, tel. (+386) 1200 82 81. Latvia D -2, Tavčarjeva 10/7, tel. (+386) 1 434 1620. Lithuania C-5, Emonska 8, tel. (+386) 1 2445 600. Luxemburg (consulate) B-3, Slovenska 17, tel. (+386) 1 470 70 15. Macedonia J-4, Rožna dolina, Cesta IV/2, tel. (+386) 1 568 44 54. Malta (consulate) C-2, Kersnikova 11, tel. (+386) 41 444 014. Montenegro F-2, Njegoševa 14, tel. (+386) 1439 53 64. Morocco (consulate) J-2, Bizjanova 2, tel. (+386) 1581 63 00. Netherlands C-2, Poljanski nasip 6, tel. (+386) 1420 14 61. New Zealand (consulate) H-1, Verovškova 57, tel. (+386) 1580 30 55. Norway B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 1300 21 40.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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business direCtory

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05 40.

Poland H-2, Bežigrad 10, tel. (+386) 1 436 47 12. Portugal B-3, Trg Republike 3/X, tel. (+386) 1479 Romania H-1, Smrekarjeva 33A, tel. (+386) 1505 Russia A-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. (+386) 1422 49 20. Serbia C-2, Slomškova 1, tel. (+386) 1438 01 10. Slovakia A-3, Tivolska 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54 25. South Korea (consulate) B-3, Trg Republike 3, tel. Spain C-4, Trnovski pristan 24, tel. (+386) 1420 Sweden (consulate) C/D-2, Kersnikova 6, tel. (+386)
23 30. 41 661 906. (+386) 1252 71 17.

KD Življenje J-1, Celovška 206, tel. (+386) 1 58 Triglav D-1, Miklošičeva 19, tel. (+386) 1474 73 20.
26 522.

82 94.

Internet Cafés
(+386) 15 42 15 30. 72 70.

CyberHP Café Šmartinska 152/G (Citypark), tel. Drog-Art E-1/2, Kolodvorska 20, tel. (+386) 14 39
tel. (+386) 12 91 23 96.

Oton Zupancic Library C-1, Train Station,Trg OF 10,

1200 86 40. Turkey D-1, Livarska 4, tel. (+386) 1236 41 50. Ukraine A-5, Teslova 23, tel. (+386) 1421 06 04. UK B-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. (+386) 1 200 39 10. USA B-3, Prešernova 31, tel. (+386) 1200 55 00.

Switzerland B-3, Trg republike 3/ VI, tel. (+386)

Lawyers
200 76 86.

Janez Pejovnik C-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386) 1 Odvetniška družba Mramor, Sorta, Bilić & Holec

Express Mail
86.

DHL Špruha 19, Trzin, tel. (+386) 1588 78 00. FedEx M-3, Ob Železnici 14, tel. (+386) 15 47 33 Kurirček , tel. (+386) 80 1881. Tine Express J-1, Nadgoriških Borcev 34, tel. (+386) TNT Express M-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 15 UPS Intereuropa Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42
81 12 00. 87 83 00. 15 61 70 00.

Odvetniška pisarna Miro Senica in odvetniki B-4, Barjanska 3, tel. (+386) 1252 80 00. Peter Mele odvetniška pisarna C-2, Resljeva 25, tel. (+386) 1430 04 61.

C-2, Komenskega 4, tel. (+386) 59 93 77 00.

Relocations Ltd H-1, Slovenska 34 (The Business Centre), tel. (+386) 40 51 78 20. Selitveni servis Repič H-1, Tesovnikova 47, tel. (+386) 1565 69 50. Vatovec D-2, Čufarjeva 5, tel. (+386) 1430 13 40.

Relocations

Translators
25. 48 27.

Insurance companies

Adriatic Slovenica D-2, Miklošičeva 20, tel. (+386)
1439 81 80. Generali K-2, Kržičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1475 71 00.

Alkemist J-2, Obirska 4, tel. (+386) 1 514 16 78. Berlitz C-2, Gosposvetska 2, tel. (+386) 1433 13 MultiLingual D-2, Komenskega 6, tel. (+386) 1430 December 2011 - January 2012

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66

index
Adria Airways 8 Air France 8 Ajdovo Zrno 33 Aladin 24 Aleš Cevljar 58 Alkatraz Galerija 19 Allegria 30 Allegro 22 Ambient 51 AND Camicie 53 Antiq 22 Argentino 26 Ars Linguae 58 Austrian Airlines 8 Avantura 9 Avis 7 Azur 24, 31 Babit 58 Bangkok Street 25 Barsos-MC 58 Bazilika Shop & Cafe 34 Best Western Premier Slon 22 Bežigrajska Galerija 1 19 Bežigrajska Galerija 2 19 Bi-Ko-Fe 38 Biljardna Hiša 39 BTC City 56 Bus Station 7 Cacao 34 Café Plato 34 Cankarjev Dom 18 Casino Lev 42 Casino Rio 42 Cathedral 44 Celica 24 Center 23 Center for Slovene as a Second/Foreign Language 58 Central 22 Central Pharmacy 58 Centre Stožice 18 Čevljarski Most 43 Čez Cesto 34 Cha 35 Chemo Express 58 City 22 City Library 58 City Museum 47 Citypark 56 City Theatre 19 Cliché 54 Coffee Project 35 Čokoladnica Cukrček 55 Collegium 9 Contemporary History Museum 48 Cubo 20 Cvetličarna 40 Czech Airlines 8 Dental clinic 58 Don Felipe 33 Draguljarna Malalan 55 Dr Sanja Lucija Pečnik 58 Dulcis Caffe 35 Dvorni Bar 40 Easyjet 8 Emonec 23 Equrna 19 Estetika Fabjan 58 Estetsko Zobozdravstvo 58 Europcar 7 Evangelical Church 44 Eventim 18 Exhibition of Slovenian History 48 Falafel 32 Femiks 58 Festivalna Dvorana 18 Foculus 31 Foto Tivoli 56 France 60 France Prešeren 47 Franciscan Church 45 Frks 32 Gala Hala 18, 40 Galerija Emporium 53 Galerija Kresija 19 Ganes Pratt 19 GoOpti 9 Gostilna Dubočica 26 Gostilna Gurman 26 Gostilnica Rimska XXI 32 Gostilnica Rio-Momo 26 Gostišče Portal 26 Gostišče Pri Poku 51 Grand Hotel Union Business 20 Grand Hotel Union Executive 20 Green Moon 39 Hala Tivoli 18 Health Centre 58 Health Centre Metelkova 58 Hibrid 53 H&M 53 Holy Trinity Church 46 Hostel Print 24 Hugo Barrera 39 iBlues 54 IdealRent 7 Institut Français 18 Intersport 56 Izložba 35 Jakopič Galerija 19 JAT Airways 8 JB 30 Juicebox 26 Jurman 28 Kalliste 58 KavaČaj Slamič 35 Kavarna Maček 36 Kavarna Rog 36 Kavarna Tromostovje 36 Kavarna Union 19 Kažipot 9 Kino Dvor 18 Kinoklub Vič 18 Kino Šiška 18 Kinoteka 18 Kipling 54 Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna dolina 58 Klub 300 39 Klub K4 40 Klub Top 40 KMŠ 40 Kolosej 18 Kompas 9 Koromandija 56 Kresnička 36 Križanke 18 KUD France Prešeren 19 Labod 58 Laguna Taxi 8 La Perla 54 Latino Nightclub 42 Lekarna Ljubljana 58 Lekarna Miklošič 58 Le Petit Café Lepotni Salon Kliše Lesar Hotel Angel Lev Ljubljana Airport Ljubljana Castle Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre Loving Hut LP Bar LPP Lufthansa Lux Club Mala Galerija Mandarina Duck Marella Marina Rinaldi Marta Studio Masažni Center Akson Masažni Kotiček Maxi Market Max Mara Mehurček Mesarski Most Mestna Galerija Mestna Optika Mestni Trg Metelkova Mesto Metro Taxi M Hotel Mič Styling Midas Mladinska Knjiga Moments Salon Mondial Travel Mons Movia Museum of Contemporary Art Nama Namasté Narodna In Univerzitetna Knjižnica National Drama Theatre National Gallery National Museum National University Library Nebotičnik Nobel Burek Olimeja Olimpija Operi in Posuši Optika FELIKS Optika FELIKS, PE: SUPERNOVA Optika Zajec Orthodox Church Orto Bar Paninoteka+ Park Parlament Pub Parma Patrick's Irish Pub Patrick Sport Philharmonic PH Kapitelj PH Meksiko Photon PH Šentpeter PH Trdinova Piranske Soline 36 58 20 20 8 46 18 43 33 39 7 8 41 19 54 54 54 23 58 58 52 54 58 43 19 58 45 19 8 22 58 52 52 58 9 20 40 48 52 26 58 19 50 50 44 44 28 32 28 58 58 58 58 46 41 28 22 41 31 41 56 18 8 8 19 8 8 55 Pizzeria Osmica 31 Plato 28 Plečnik House 50 Portal Guesthouse 23 Prešernov Trg 45 Pri Semaforju 36 Pri Vitezu 28 Pri Zelenem Zajcu 39 Puppet Theatre 19 Puppet Theatre Clock 47 Relax 9 Restaurant 2000 26 Robba Fountain 47 Roundabout 9 Roxly 39 Salon Mali 58 Scratch Rock Bar 40 SEM Kavarna 36 Sense Welness Club 58 Shambala 25 Shiatsu v Ljubljani 58 Sixt 7 Škuc Gallery 19 Slamič 23 Slovene Ethnographic Museum 50 Slovenian Tourist Information Center 43 Slovensko Mladinsko Gledališče 19 Smrekarjev Hram 30 Sončni studio body line 58 Sončni studio Sun vision 58 Špajza 33 Španski Borci 19 Sputnik Cosmic Caffe 30 STA 9 STA Travel Café 36 St Joseph 46 St Peter 46 Studio Hosiery 54 Studio Lotus 58 Supernova 56 Synagogue 46 Tajska Masaža 58 Tao 9 Taxi Intertours 8 Taxi Legende 8 Technical Museum 51 Thai Sabai 58 Tobačna 001 19 Toko 55 Tourist Information Centre 18 Trgovina Ika 55 Tromostovje 43 Trta 31 Tru Trussardi 54 Turkey 61 Turkish Airlines 9 Ljubljana 58 Urbana Card 7 Venustas 58 Veris 58 Vom Second Hand 56 Vžigalica Galerija 19 XYZ 55 Yuhey tourist agency 50 Žale Cemetery 44 Zlata Ladjica 42 Zlati Zob 41 Zmajski Most 45 Žmauc 40 Zvezda 36

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