Dec 2nd 2OOO I'm in Athens seated in the bone-white crumbling bleachers of a theatre near the Parthenon.

There are tons of wild dogs roaming the ruins. Wild dog feces is somehow…wilder in smell. After lunch, an old Greek woman came up to me and babbled briefly. I caught only one word from her: "beware." Then she gave me a beautiful shirt that fit me perfectly and smelled ok too. She walked off and stopped to look back at me twice. Beware of what?!! Do they do that for show here? Dec. 4th 2OOO I'm at the Madoypa Café in the Mykonos Harbor. Some guy with the look of a cruel, ancient fisherman has been staring at me, sizing me up. I stared back for 7-8 minutes until I accidentally spilled my big green pistachio milkshake. This surely told him "there's room for only ONE bad hombre here during the off season…" Dec. 6th 2OOO I stopped in the hills to sketch a stone dwelling with a wooden door. Chickens were clucking, probably anxious to get their territory back. I poked around and found the decomposing remains of two donkey legs. It’s just never too early in the Greek morning for that sort of thing. When I got back to town, I saw a coffin lid leaning on someone's porch. It was surrounded by flowers dispersed between two industrial sized, white plastic vats of Helman's Mayo. A Sheppard mutt has just run off to bark at the trash compactor.

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