NORTH

AMERICA

Truly Talen Jorg s, Techniques an Practical Applicatio

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AN INTRIGUING

WAY TO GO.
VELICHE.
or visit www.velichechocolate.com

PURE BELGIAN CHOCOLATE.

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cargill

Published

by

Synergyl Group, Inc.
PUBLISHER Synergy1 Board of Directors EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Marcionette CREATIVE DIRECTOR Lisa Dinges SENIOR EDITOR Campbell Ross Walker

Just For You
Welcome to the launch of Pastry & Baking North America, a new bi-monthly magazine specifically edited for the region's dessert professionals. In this debut issue, it is our pleasure to feature Chef in Focus Iorg Amsler, a "truly" talented pastry pro who is not only very brave but skilled with a knife and winning over the hearts and minds of New Englanders. Our Bakery in Focus department features Mrs. London's from Saratoga Springs. Though snuggled in a tiny, albeit historic, Upstate village the Londons (Wendy and Michael) own and operate one of the world's finest bakeries. Their success is predicated on skill, determination, being unafraid and the road not taken. As you read Pastry & Baking North America, you will discover that our intent is to celebrate hardworking professionals and provide unparalleled instructional editorial. We accomplish this by showcasing individuals and outlets from across the region and by reporting on news and current events that shape the industry. Additionally, a substantial portion of the publication is dedicated to step-by-step practical application provided by our world renowned line-up of Guest Contributors. Lastly, we absolutely want to hear from you. Your likes, dislikes, suggestions, comments and how we can make the magazine a better read and an integral part of your professional life. I look forward to your feedback. Enjoy the debut of Pastry & Baking North America.

ASIA PACIFIC EDITOR Rachel Lee NE1WORK MANAGER Michael Ethier SENIOR WRITERS David Martell, Laura Geatty

CORPORATE OFFICES: North America 24 Cedar Pond Lane Poughkeepsie, New York 12603 Email: info@pastryna.com

Asia Pacific 32 Maxwell Road #03-07 White I louse Building Singapore 069115 Pax: (65) 6323 1839

Regards, Joe Marcionette Editor-in-Chief

www.PastryNA.com

Pastry & Baking North America Volume 1, Issue 1. All rights reserved. © under Universal International and Pan American Copyright conventions. This

18

14
Regional Showcase
Join P&B NA on our tour of North America as we visit and showcase talented professionals who share their favorite products and recipes.

6
Off The Wire
The latest news, happenings, events and product updates.

10
Sugar Arts
The incomparable Ewald Notter

32
Bakery in Focus
Is Mrs. London's the best bakery in the world? Could be considering their aura of quality and the incredible line-up of cakes, breads and pastries that make this establishment part of the Saratoga allure.

provides step-by-step instruction and insight into his passion and craft.

28
Chocolate Love
Pastry chef and chocolatier extraordinaire Norman Love delves deep into building skills and techniques.

48

Chef in Focus

62
Asian Fusion
Legendary Kim Young Mo shares his unique approach to the marriage of classic European pastry/baking with Asian tastes and sensibilities.

Pastry chef and business owner Jorg Amsler is winning the hearts and minds of New Englanders by thinking locally and employing pragmatic business sense.

Jmpo'lting

and dist'libuting

Let another professional take care of the tempering!
, Chocovision makes the best tempering machine! Saves me a lot time with no waste. A pastry chef's best friend.!, ,

thefinest quafity b'land name
past'ly pioducis since 1985.

A meucan (;ou'lm,et Joods,
yoU'l pastu; specialist.
Pang Kok Keong Executive Pastry Chef Canele Patisserie Chocolaterie

www.americangourmetfoods.com Washington, DC 20019 202.526.1999

Off The Wire

News, events and happenings from around the region

ACFAwards
The American Culinary Federation (ACF) awarded national culinary honors at the 2007 ACF National Convention, the largest gathering of culinarians in the United States, July 21-24 in Orlando. More than 2,100 chefs, culinarians and foodservice representatives attended the national convention, which featured a trade show with 125 plus exhibitor booths, professional development seminars, unique culinary demonstrations, the sold-out second annual Certified Master Chefs dinner, nationalaward presentations and culinary competitions. Culinarians from each ACF Region - Central, Northeast, Southeast and Western - who earned the right to compete at the national convention by winning local, state and regional competitions, competed for national awards. ACF National Pastry Chef of the Year, sponsored by Splendaw, went to Patricia Nash, pastry chef, Westchester Country Club, Rye, N.Y.

in 1929, is the premier professional organization for culinarians in America. With more than 19,000 members spanning 230 chapters nationwide, ACF is the culinary leader in offering educational resources, training, apprenticeship and accreditation.

Chefs turn up heat in pastry contest
Courtesy ofTennessean.com

When the final bell sounded at 2 p.m., 13 frenetic hours of sugarfueled activity came to a screeching halt. The nine teams at the National Team Pastry Championships were instructed to stop work, but their most precarious maneuver remained at the end of the two-day competition hosted by Gaylord Opryland Resort and Convention Center. They had to move their final sugar-and-chocolate showpieces a mere 2 feet from their kitchen workspace to the display table. That narrow gap presented a harrowing challenge because many showpieces towered more than 6 feet in height, held together only by sugar and chocolate. Indeed, one team's showpiece collapsed amid the groans of the crowd intently watching every move. Most spectators packed every bit of space at one end of the line of kitchens, seeking a vantage point to watch what was simply referred to as "the French team." Arguably the best and most experienced, the three executive pastry chefs moved with

Captained by Laurent Branlard of Walt Disney World Swan Hotel, with Frederic Monti of The Greenbrier Resort and Stephane Treand of St. Regis Resort, their chocolate guitar, airbrushed with a likeness of Tim McGraw and decorated with vibrant painted chocolate sunflowers, was a showstopper. Next to their abstract sugar figure, with two white sugar hands suspended over a banjo, and brilliant green supports arcing upward, the two pieces taken together clearly won the audience's award. Next to Team Branlard, Team Caldwell kept steady pace, not revealing their showpieces until the very end. Led by Iin Caldwell of Ethel M chocolates in Las Vegas, it was the first all-female team ever to compete at the Nationals. Along with Kristina Karlicki of the Daniel Boulud Brasserie at the Wynn Resort and Sally Camacho of Mandalay Bay,their interpretation of "The Devil Went Down to Georgia" took dark chocolate to an evil place, with tentacles and ribs tempting the audience. In sugar though, a giant golden sun, rising through a clear flame panel represented Johnny's defeat of the devil and their own hopes for success. The winner of the Nationals, Team Branlard, will return to Nashville and Gaylord Opryland next summer to compete in the World Team Pastry Championships.
& Dolphin

members including amateur, professional and master decorators, shop owners, wholesalers and manufactures. For more information on ICES, shows or registration questions, please visit www. ices.org or contact Mary Gavenda, 630-257-7008-or email Mgsoffice@aol.com.

3rd Reprint
A Collection of Fine Baking by Kim Young Mo has gone for its third reprint and is fast becoming a must have for dessert professionals around the world. A full-color cookbook containing more than 1,000 photographs and illustrations for a complete, step-by-step demonstration of each recipe, Chef Kim's approach to pastry and baking is unique and as Gabriel Paillasson sees it, "Kim Young Mo has dedicated his life to perfecting the art of baking and these recipes prove he has reached his goal."

Call for Competitors
Entry forms are now available for the 19th annual U.S. Pastry Competition to be held at the International Foodservice Show of New York on March 9, 2008. Presented by Paris Gourmet and sponsored by Cacao Noel, Ravifruit and Pastry 1, this installment of the competition will feature "Under the Sea" as the chocolate & sugar showpiece theme with each contestant vying for points in the areas of visual appeal, artistic presentation, technique, originality and creativity. For the cake, competitors will be judged on their creative use of Cacao Noel chocolate couverture and Ebow Dadzie _ Pastry Chef Ravifruit fruit purees in relation to of the Year 2007. flavor balance, structure, texture, originality and the all important taste factor! This year the competition has added a chocolate bonbon to the entry. With cash prizes and the coveted Pastry Chef of the Year title on the line, entries must be postmarked no later than December 3,2007. For more information on the event and downloadable entry form, please visit www.parisgourmet.com or contact Shirley Hall via telephone (1-800-727-8791 ext. 202) or email ( Shirley@parisgourmet.com). For technical questions, contact Florian Bellanger, Jury President, Societe Culinaire

ICES Reunion in the Heartland
The Qwest Center in Omaha, Nebraska played host to the 32nd Annual International Cake Exploration Societe (ICES) convention and sugar art show on July 26-29th. With over 1,100conventioneers and 50 exhibiting companies, organizers were thrilled with the turnout: "It truly was an exciting Reunion for all who attended. There was always something to keep everyone busy, from attending the various demonstrations, to reviewing the over 550 beautiful sugar art creations and shopping at the vendor area for new tools of the trade," says ICES Publicity Chairman, Mary Gavenda. Highlights of the show included a Global Sugar Art Gallery that displayed several hundred sugar art creations done by decorators of all levels and all ages from all over the United States and around the world. The focal point of the Global Sugar Art Gallery was the Convention Show Cake. This year's cake was created by Iolillen Simon of Omaha, NE and was her personal challenge taking 4 years to create from design to completion. Showcasing Nebraska, from past to present, the cake's center is 8 feet tall by 30" wide accented by 8 -12" satellite cakes around the base. The International Cake Exploration Societe (ICES) is a nonprofit organization dedicated to the promotion of cake decorating and sugar arts. ICES was founded in Monroe, MI

Off The Wire

Top Bakers Selected
The Bread Bakers Guild of America announced the three winners in the competition for a spot on Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2008. Team members were selected during the national finals held recently in San Francisco and the three-person team will spend the next year preparing for the prestigious Coupe du monde de la Boulangerie (World Cup of Baking) to be held in Paris on March 30-April1, 2008. Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2008 will defend the World Cup title won by the 2005 team. Members of Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2008 and the categories they represent are: Dara Reimers(Artistic Design) from Auburn, Maine, Peter Yuen (Viennoiserie) from Chicago and Solveig Tofte(Baguette & Specialty Breads)from Minneapolis.The highly competitive three-stage selection process is conducted by The Guild every three years to choose a team

From childhood, growing up in the Depression Era, Thursa valued her small town mother's commitment to quality ingredients and her desire to broaden her skills by enrolling in correspondence courses on candy making. "From the time I saw my mom's rows of hand-dipped chocolate centers lined up in a chilled room I felt compelled to find time to try her craft. Using her simple equipment and purchasing a marble top once my children were grown set me off on my culinary adventure and has given me a legacy to pass on to my grandchildren." Even though Thursa's first effort at apple pie was a "disaster'; leaving her in tears and crying over the less then delicate crust, Thursa forged ahead and developed into not only an accomplished pastry chef but also a teacher and culinary inspiration. "Perfection is how she demonstrates excellence through her profession and she is so willing to mentor all those who enter our kitchen. Her constant development in flavors and incorporation of fresh spices and herbs from her gardens are endearing. She is like a machine in that she is ever moving to get the Almost Home customers to enjoy new foods and flavors," offers Gail Smith.

to represent the United States at the Coupe du monde de la Boulangerie in Paris. Guild-sponsored teams have always performed well at the international event. In 2005 and 1999, Team USA returned home as World Champion bakers and in 2002 took second place. Considered the Olympics of Baking, the intense competition features teams from 12 countries trying to out do each other in the three categories and is the world's only competition where bakers who practice the craft of artisan baking can compete against the many old-world traditions of the various countries involved. The Bread Bakers Guild of America is a non-profit organization for professional bread bakers, bakery owners, suppliers, technical experts and home bread bakers. It was formed in 1993 to shape the skills and knowledge of the artisan baking community through education. Team USA is sponsored by The Guild as part of its efforts to improve the quality of baking through continuing education and training. For more information on The Guild, visit their website (www.bbga.org) or contact Gina Renee Piccolinoat (412) 823-2080.

North American Chocolate Masters
Pastry expert Christophe Morel of Chocolaterie Rolland in Boucherville, Quebec will represent Canada and Vincent Pilon, Executive Pastry Chef at Mandalay Bay,will represent the United States at the 2007 finals for the World Chocolate Masters scheduled for October 20-22nd at the Salon du Chocolat in Paris.

Retiring Inspiration
Thursa Evens will soon celebrate her 80th birthday and begin yet another chapter in her long and distinguished life. Perhaps America's oldest, working pastry chef, Thursa has been responsible for dessert duties at Almost Home restaurant in Greencastle, Indiana for the last 17 years. However, come December, Chef Thursa will look to focus more time on her garden and with her friends. "Gail Smith, owner of Almost Home, knows that I anticipate full retirement as her pastry chef by my 80th birthday in December 2007. The volume of my baking will be reduced in the near future but my desire to An event organized by Barry Callebaut, the World Chocolate Masters promotes the creative use of top quality chocolate in all its applications. With 20 countries from around the world participating in this year's installment, each team will consist of 1 finalist and 1 jury member. With a tight time schedule, each finalist will be tasked with creating an impressive chocolate showpiece, a small showpiece, 2 types of pralines, a pastry and a dessert in relation to this year's theme of "National Myths and Legends". For more information on the event, visit www.

Dobla unveils The Collection 2008
In September, Dobla will release their The Collection 2008 catalogue. A catalogue, that The collection comprises the complete range of their chocolate decorations, topping and chocolate cups. With respect to previous years important renewals have been added to The Collection 2008. The Collection 2008 will feature Dobla's new product line: The Chef's Collection. Developed in partnership with some of the world's leading pastry chefs, The Chef's Collection consists of 15 products specifically designed for pastry shops and restaurants, all of which reflect a hand-made, crafted look presented in exquisite packaging with a one of kind design. For the broader market, Dobla has made great strides with regard to their chocolate logos. Using the highest quality chocolate, smaller order quantities and shorter lead times, it is now easier and more cost effective than ever to display your company logo, name or image on a piece of chocolate. Dark, milk and white colour logos are available in Dobla's numerous shapes and sizes,your organization is sure to find what they need inside The Collection 2008.

Chocolate

Dobla is the world's largest producer of chocolate decorations, toppings and chocolate cups with 60 years of experience and represented in over 50 countries around the globe. Known for innovations, quality and truly unique marketing, Dobla's commitment to the North American market has grown exponentially with their new production facility right outside of Atlanta, Georgia. For more information on Dobla, The Collection 2008 or the Recipe book (a collection of recipes with Dobla products made by world's leading pastry chefs), contact Claudine Koppes (c.koppes@dobla.com) or

Sugar Arts

Sugar
Lobster
Two part tutorial for creating a very real and intricate crustacean.
Publisher's Note: Ewald Notter is considered a leading expert in modern day confectionery arts and is also well know as a competitor and instructor. Today, Chef Ewald heads the Notter School of Pastry Arts in Orlando, Florida. (www.notterschool.com)

Part I: Base & Rocks
Lobster Base
Sugar Recipe Equipment

(for pulling) lOOOgsugar 400g water 200g glucose Green coloring

Mat Gloves Edible gold Heat source Pot Spatula Marble

4.

6.

1. Boil sugar, water, coloring and glucose to 320°F and poor

directly onto silicon mat atop a piece of marble or granite. Marble or granite will cool the sugar faster. 2. Begin folding the sugar into the center as soon as the edges start to cool. 3. While the sugar is warm and soft, create a well in the center using your hands.

6. Carefully fold and twist the sugar. Remember, when pulling and twisting the sugar the idea is to entrap air. 7. Continue folding and twisting the sugar until you see some marbling. 8. Press the sugar flat using the palm of your hand. 9. Cool the base on the marble or granite. NOTE: For deeper green, add more coloring during Step 1. By

Sugar Arts

Ocean Rocks
Sugar Recipe: (for pulling) 1000g sugar 400g water 200g glucose Green coloring
Equipment:

Silicon mat Gloves Torch Blow Dryer Heat source Pot Spatula Marble

4.

1. Boil sugar, water, coloring and glucose to 320°F. Poor directly onto silicone mat. 2. As soon as the sugar cools on the edges fold the sugar into the middle. 3. Take sugar (not too cold) and roll into a rope like pipe.

5. Form a hollow tube using your hands. Close the ends so the air stays inside. 6. Repeat the process until the sugar starts to crack.

8. 9.

Cool the rope like pipe of sugar using a blow dryer. Pick up the sugar and drop onto the work surface with the intention of breaking the piece into various sizes. 10. Note the inside of the sugar with various pores caused by the trapped air in the early pulling and folding steps.

Regtorf

· '.

Showcase

Regional

Showcase

Lemon Coconut Torte
Yield: 8-10 portions

Genoise
12 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 cups all-purpose flour 1112 teaspoon salt 18 large eggs 21 ounces sugar 3 teaspoon vanilla 1. Preheat oven to 300 E
0

8 large egg yolks 1112 cup lemon juice l2 chilled unsalted butter cut into 112inch cubes 1. Combine the lemon zest, sugar, eggs and egg yolks in a medium heatproof bowl and whisk together to prevent coagulation. Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water and begin whisking. Whisk for about one minute until the sugar is dissolved. Place a finger in the mixture, if you feel grains continue to whisk. 2. Add the lemon juice and cook, whisking continuously for about 5 minutes. Use a rubber spatula to scrape sides occasionally. Insert thermometer and check the temperature of the curd. It is done when the temperature hits 160°F and has the consistency of pudding. 3. Transfer the curd off the heat. Place butter pieces over curd and stir until all pieces have melted and it is fully incorporated into curd. 4. Strain curd into a clean bowl or stage container and cover with plastic film pressing it directly onto the surface of the curd to prevent a skin from forming. Chill.

Whip until barely stiff and add cooled gelatin all at once to cream during whipping. Stop when it forms soft medium peaks. Assembly 1. Cut cake into 3 even rectangles. Brush each layer with simple syrup. 2. Place your first layer on a plate or cardboard base. Pipe a wall around entire edge. Fill with 2 cups lemon curd. Dust with shredded coconut. 3. Place your second layer on evenly on top of base layer and repeat with icing and curd. 4. Place the final layer on top. Completely ice the cake. Press coconut around all sides and dust top.

2. Line and spray half sheet pan 3. Melt the butter and set aside. Sift the flour and salt together in medium bowl and set aside. 2. Whisk the eggs and sugar in standing mixer until combined. 3. Place the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water, making sure the water does not touch the bowl. Heat the egg mixture to 110 E
0

Your Notes

4. Place back on mixer and beat at medium speed until the eggs are pale, voluminous and form a thick ribbon. Approximately 7-10 minutes. 5. Turn off mixer and transfer one cup of batter to a medium bowl and stir in the melted butter until combined; set aside. With remaining batter on mixer on lowest speed take flour and slowly sprinkle flour into batter until just barely incorporated. Add the butter mixture back to the batter, fold gently to incorporate, being careful not to deflate the batter. 6. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Smooth the top with a spatula. Bake about 35 minutes until the cake is deep golden brown and springs back lightly when pressed with a finger.

Stabilized Coconut Whip Cream Icing
6 cups heavy cream 12 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon gelatin 2 tablespoon cold water 1. Place water in small bowl. Sprinkle gelatin over its surface. Let set for 5 minutes. Stir gelatin over low heat until completely dissolved. Let cool, but not get cold. 2. Whip the cream. Just before it becomes soft and billowy slowly add the sugar and tablespoon of coconut extract.

Lemon Curd
lif3 cups sugar 4 tablespoons lemon zest, finely chopped 6 large eggs

Ani LaAdams
Pastry Chef Bistro Aix Bakery 440 San Marco Boulevard

Regional

Showcase

Chocolate Custard Brownie
Yield: 1/2 sheet tray or 12 portions 5. Cover and infuse for at least 30 minutes. Strain. 6. Reserve overnight, covered.

Chocolate Brownie
6 oz I 200g butter, softened 6 oz I 200g sugar 6 oz I 200g eggs 5.4 oz/lSOg chocolate (70%) melted 1.5 oz I 50g flour 4g salt 1. Melt chocolate and allow to cool slightly. Cream butter and sugar. Slowly add eggs and then the chocolate. Next, add the flour and salt. Spread on a 1j2 sheet pans. 2. Bake at 300 P convection for 12 minutes.
0

2. Temper chocolate on acetate sheets, cut with the same square mold and a 2 em circle and garnished with gold leaf. 3. Whip cinnamon cream. Defrost brownie. Start with a layer of cinnamon cream, then a scoop of scraped espresso granite and finish with a chocolate decoration. 4. Decorate with 3 lines of chocolate sauce. Place finished brownie at a 45 degree angle to lines. Parallel to the brownie, sprinkle a line of chocolate espresso dust.

Espresso Granite
16 oz/4S0 ml water 2.S oz ISO g 1 lemon, peeled 1j2 t salt 2 oz I 57g instant espresso 1. Boil water, sugar, lemon, and salt. 2. Add espresso and stir. Cover and let infuse. 3. Pour into 1/2 hotel pan and freeze. Allow 10 minutes at room temperature before scraping.

Your Notes

3. Cool and freeze.

Chocolate Sauce Chocolate Pot de Creme
40 oz/l,200 ml milk 3.75 oz I 125g sugar 9 oz I 300g chocolate (70%) melted 15 yolks 1. Boil the milk and sugar. Pour over the chocolate. Wait 5 minutes and stir as a ganache. Chill over ice. 2. When cold, add egg yolks and strain. 3. Bake on 1/2 sheet tray at 200°F. 4. Cool and freeze. 9.7 oz I 275g sugar 6.2 oz I 175g water 4.4 oz/125g cocoa powder S oz I 227g cream 1. Cook sugar and water to 225°F. 2. Add cream and then cocoa powder. Stir and bring to a boil again. Reduce slightly. 3. Strain and cool over ice immediately.

Chocolate Espresso Dust
3.5 oz 1I00g vanilla sable scraps 2g instant espresso Pinch salt .7 oz 120g cocoa 1. Bake scraps until golden brown at 300°F. Cool. 2. Grind in robot coupe with all other ingredients. Spread on sheet pan to dry. Assembly 1. With brownie and pot de creme components frozen, cut with a square mold (7 cm x 7 ern) and assemble. Reserve until needed, frozen.

Roasted Cinnamon Cream
24 ozl 6S1 g cream .9 oz I 30 g cinnamon sticks I.S oz I 60g sugar 1j4 tIS ml salt 1 sheet gelatin 1. Roast cinnamon sticks for 10 minutes at 350 P in conventional oven.
0

2. Bloom gelatin in cold water. 3. Boil cream, sugar, and salt. 4. Add cinnamon and gelatin. Hand blend to break cinnamon.

Jansen Chan
Pastry Chef Oceana Restaurant 55 East 54th Street

Regional

Showcase

Abbot
20 pieces

Honey Walnut Sponge (3 full sheet pans)
10 egg yolk 2 eggs 4.7 oz 1135 g honey 16.6 oz I 472 g egg white 5.8 oz 1165 g sugar 4.2 oz 1120 g toaster chopped walnut 7.4 oz I 210 g sifted flour 1. In a mixer with whisk attachment, add yolk, eggs and honey and whisk until double in volume. 2. In a new bowl, pour the egg white and whisk and gradually add sugar until stiff peaks. 3. In a larger mixing bowl, add the sabayon (yolk, egg, honey) and fold in the sifted flour and meringue alternately. 4. Spread the resulting mixture on a full size sheet pan with silicon mat and sprinkle the chopped walnut. 5. Baked the sponge at 360°F until light brown. About 10 minutes. Let cool.

Banana Chocolate Mousse
8.8 oz I 250 g dark chocolate 66% 8.8 oz I 250 g butter 10 egg yolk 3.5 oz 1100 g sugar .7 oz 120 g water 17.5 oz 1500 g soft whipped cream 4.4 oz 1125 g banana liquor .17 oz I 5 g gelatine
1. Melt the chocolate at 113°F. Add the

3. Spoon in 1 tsp of the caramelized banana to the center of the mousse layer. Top up with a small disc of sponge soaked with banana liquor syrup. 3. Fill the mold to the top with mousse and level with a palette knife. 4. Use your soaked sponge bases to seal the mold and freeze. 20 minutes. 5. Remove from freezer, unmold and place on tray with parchment paper. Prepare a chocolate mixture of equal parts dark chocolate and cocoa butter. Melt over double boiler until smooth. Place mixture in airbrush and spray each dome until fully covered with velvet texture. 6. Decorate with small cookies and flowers.

butter. 2. Pour yolk in mixer and whisk until fluffy. Combine sugar and water in a pot and bring to boil (soft ball stage). Switch mixer to high speed and gradually pour in the cooked sugar syrup and continue to whisk until thicken and cool. 3. Soften the gelatine in iced water. Squeeze out the excess water and place in a plastic container with banana liquor. Melt in microwave. 4. Have the cream softly whipped. 5. In mixing bowl, combine egg yolk mixture and melted chocolate then add in the melted gelatine. 6. Lastly, fold in the whipped cream. Be careful not to over fold.

Your Notes

Soaking Syrup
2.6 oz I 75 g sugar 8.8 oz I 250 g water 1.0 oz I 30 g banana liquor 1. Bring the sugar and water to a single boil. 2. When cool, add banana liquor.

Caramelized Banana
10 ripe bananas (sliced) 10.5 oz I 300 g sugar 1 tbsp butter 1.7 oz I 50 g banana liquor 1 vanilla pod In a skillet, cook the sugar to caramel stage. Add butter, thinly sliced banana and vanilla bean. Cook for 1 minute then add banana liquor. Set aside to cool. Assembly 1. Use a 3" diameter dome shape mold atop a sponge sheet as a trace for circular bases. Remove and soak the bases in the syrup. 2. Filled 1j2 ofthe dome shape mold with chocolate mousse. Use a palette knife to evenly spread the mousse around the mold, making sure the surface is fully covered.

Krisly Choo
Chef/Owner Jin Patisserie 1202 Abbot Kinny Blvd.

Regional

Showcase

Guglhupf (Alsatian Coffee Cake)
Guglhupf
1 cup golden raisins 1f4 cup kirsch or brandy 21f2 cups lukewarm milk, divided 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter 5 teaspoons dry yeast 51f2 cups flour 1f2 cup whole blanched almonds 3/4 cup, plus 2 tablespoons sugar 4 teaspoons salt 2 large eggs 8. 1. In a small bowl, soak raisins in kirsch; set aside. 7.

(pronounced Cfjfj-gul-hoopf

Preheat oven to 375°F with the rack one-third of the way up from the bottom. Divide the dough in 2 equal pieces. Gather each one into a ball, make a l-Inch hole in the middle of the dough with your thumb, and fit the dough into the mold, arranging it evenly. The mold should be about 2f4 full. Cover loosely and let the dough rise for 5 to 10 minutes. Bake until guglhupfs are golden brown and sound hollow when tapped, about 45 minutes. Cool in the pans for a few minutes on a wire rack then unmold guglhupfs and cool thoroughly.

Your Notes

2. In a saucepan, gently heat 1f4 cup milk with 1f4 cup butter over low heat until
lukewarm. Transfer to a mixing bowl and sprinkle on yeast, then stir in 1 cup flour until almost completely incorporated. Cover the bowl loosely with plastic wrap and let rise in a draftfree place until the mixture almost doubles in volume, about 1 hour. 3. Generously butter two 2-quart guglhupf or bundt pans. Press almonds into the grooves at the bottom (crown) of each, so they stay in place. 4. In a large mixing bowl or an electric mixer with a dough hook attachment, combine 2 1f4 cups milk, 3/4 cup butter and 4 1f2 cups flour with the sugar, salt and eggs. Mix thoroughly until blended. Add starter, and mix until blended. 5. Knead by hand on a lightly floured surface or with an electric mixer at medium-high speed for about 10 minutes or until the dough is smooth and supple feeling, soft and very slightly sticky. As you knead, add a little more flour or milk if necessary to adjust the consistency. 6. Drain raisins, reserving liquid and knead them into the dough by hand in the bowl until well-distributed. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rise to 1 1f2 times its volume, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

9.

10. Drizzle the leftover kirsch into the center of the cakes and allow to soak in before applying the topping.

Chocolate Ganache
2 cups heavy cream 4 cups semi-sweet chocolate chips 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1. In a double boiler, scald heavy cream. Add chocolate chips and butter and slowly melt together, stirring until velvety smooth. Let cool until slightly warm. 2. Pour over fully cooled guglhupf situated on a wire rack or screen over a cookie sheet, in order to allow the ganache to coat the guglhupfbut not pool at the bottom. 3. While the ganache is still slightly tacky, decorate with chocolate vermicelli (sprinkles) and cherries. Note: In Alsace, the guglhupf is never served on the same day it is baked. It is made the night before, or even 2 days ahead, so it can "age" to a light, dry texture. Dust again with confectioners' sugar just before serving.

Claudia Cooper
Baker & Co-Owner Guglhupf Bakery & Patisserie 2706 Chapel Hill Blvd

Regional

Showcase

Carrot Agar Agar Wrap
Raspberry and Red Bell Pepper Sorbet
9.75 oz / 325g raspberry puree 6.12 oz / 175g roasted bell pepper with skin removed l.75 oz / 50g powdered glucose .14 oz / 4g sorbet stabilizer 7.S7 oz / 225g water 5.42 oz / 155g sugar Taste lime juice 1. Puree red bell pepper with raspberry puree. 2. Bring water to a boil. Add powdered glucose, sugar and stabilizer and bring back to a boil. 3. Add the raspberry and pepper puree to water plus a dash of lime juice and mix well. 4. Process in ice cream machine. Heat the honey, sugar, and glucose to 250°F. Slowly add the half beaten egg whites. Whip until mixture is cool. Fold in whipped cream with candied fennel and nuts. Place in a tube mold. Freeze until ready for use.

Your Notes

Carrot Agar Agar
10.5 oz / 300g finely diced carrots 1 1/2 sheets gelatin l.5 tsp / Sg powdered agar agar .7 oz / 20g sugar 3.5 oz / 100g orange juice 1. Bring orange juice to a boil, add diced carrots, remove from heat when carrots are soft. 2. Mix with hand mixer until smooth. 3. Bring back to a boil and add sugar mixed with the agar agar. Let boil for 2 minutes. Add previously bloomed gelatin. Remove from heat. 4. Pour onto a silicone mat and spread very thin. Place into cooler until ready to use (about 2 minutes). 5. Measure and cut the agar agar to wrap the candied fennel nougat. This must be done last minute as agar agar should not be frozen

Candied Fennel
4 oz / l13g fennel finely diced S oz / 226g simple syrup To candy fennel, bring syrup to a boil, add finely diced fennel and fennel seeds in a cheese cloth. Boil until the fennel is translucent.

Candied Bell Pepper
2 Bell Peppers Roasted and skinned To candy bell pepper, make a dry caramel with 100 g of sugar. Deglaze with 150 g of orange juice. Let simmer until the bell pepper is tender.

Garnish for sorbet
1 tsp corn syrup Place corn syrup on silicon mat and spread in a circular motion. Place in oven for five minutes. Allow to cool Assembly 1. Unmold the candied fennel nougat from the tube and wrap with carrot agar agar. Place on left hand side of a rectangular plate. 2. On the right side of the plate put a "mat" of candied bell pepper. Place a quenelle of sorbet on top. Add garnish. 3. Finish with left over candied fennel and candied bell pepper combined with Sicilian pistachios.

Candied Fennel Nougat
2.1 oz / 60g sugar 3.15 oz / 90g honey 2.1 oz / 60g glucose 6.3 oz / lS0g fresh egg whites 4.2 cups / 1kg lightly whipped cream l.75 oz / 50g candied fennel l.75 oz / 50g toasted pistachios l.75 oz / 50g toasted almonds l.75 oz / 50g candied bell pepper

Tony Miller
Executive Pastry Chef Mandarin Oriental Washington, DC

Regional

Showcase

Soft Chocolate Cream with Lilac, Banana and Cucumber Sorbet
Cocoa nib water
3S ozl lkg water 10.S oz I 300g cocoa nibs Boil water, add cocoa nib and steep overnight. 3. Cool completely and blend in cucumber juice 4. Process in ice cream machine per manufacturer's instructions.

Lilac Banana Puree
17.64 oz I SOOgmilk 17.64 oz I SOOgbanana 17.64 oz I SOOgcondensed milk .32 oz 19.1g kelcogel gellan .07 oz 12g salt .10 oz 13g ascorbic acid lilac essence to taste 1. Place banana, condensed milk, salt and ascorbic acid in a blender . 2. Combine milk and kelcogel gellan, bring to 185°F, blend into the milk mixture. 3. Strain, cool and then blend into a smooth puree. Assembly 1. In the middle of a large plate, lay a piece of chocolate cream. 2. Add several piles of banana powder for texture with one pile acting as a base for the sorbet. 3. Dot the plate with banana sauce. 4. Top the chocolate cream with lilac rocks, fresh mint and chamomile flowers. 5. Finish with a quenelle of cucumber sorbet.

Chocolate cream
6.2 oz I 17Sg 64% chocolate 6.2 oz I 17Sg 33% chocolate 9.7 oz I 27Sg heavy cream .S oz I 2Sg liquid glucose 10.S oz I 300g cocoa nib water .03 oz I .Sg iota carrageenan .03 oz I .Sg kappa carrageenan .02 oz I.Sg xanthan gum 1. Place chocolates in a medium bowl, melt half way. 2. Place cream and glucose in a pot. 3. Combine cold cocoa nib water, carrageenans and xanthan gum for one minute. Then place in a small pot. 4. Bring cream to a boil, pour over chocolate and begin to emulsify with a spatula. Transfer to a small bainmarie and further the emulsification with a hand blender. Place the bainmarie over 180DF water and heat to l30 F.
D

5. Bring cocoa nib water mixture to a boil and emulsify into chocolate mixture. Immediately pour into an acetate lined pan. 6. Cool and portion.

Your Notes

Cucumber Sorbet
26.5 oz I 750g cucumber juice S.S oz I 2S0g milk 6.3 oz I1S0g sugar 1.7 oz I SOgliquid glucose .17 oz I Sg stabiliser
l. Heat milk, sugar and glucose to 104 F. 2. Add stabilizer then heat to 18S F.
D D

Rick Billings
Pastry Chef Clio 370 Commonwealth Avenue

Chocolate Love

Multi-color
Step by step instruction for the creation of a perfect accent to any showpiece, dessert or table setting.

Ingredients:

Tempered white chocolate

Tools: Painted tapered knife Plastic acetate Tuile mold Airbrush Colored cocoa butter

Publisher's Note: In the world of gourmet chocolate creation, few can match the career and quality of Norman Love.As the former executive pastry chef for The Ritz-Carlton Company, Norman Love understands the importance of quality and presentation and his global brand of artisan chocolates can be found in innumerable retailers, restaurants and hotels around the world. For more information on Chef Norman and his gourmet chocolates, please visit his website (www.normanloveconfections.com) or his retail salon in Fort Myers, Florida.

1. Dip one side of knife in chocolate; Dip and scrape backend of knife. Press flush onto acetate. Lift up and pull straight back; slightly on a bias. 2. Continue across. 3. Quickly lift acetate. Place into molds to bend petals. 4. Allow to harden and peel off. 5. Cut out 2" center in the white chocolate for base. 6. Dip end of petals in chocolate. Apply to edge; slightly overlapping. Continue until circle is complete. 7. Then continue with second row of petals. Finish with a small white chocolate sphere in the center.

Chocolate

Love

9. Repeat process with second flower. 10. With an airbrush, cover the entire flower in yellow colored cocoa butter. Next, switch to orange colored cocoa butter and lightly spray the tips of the flower. 11. Airbrush base of petals in green. Tip: Use gold or silver dust to help create more depth to the flowers. Use small demi-sphere to prop flower for more visual appearance.

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The Magic of
By David Martell Photography by SIG

Upstate New York bakery deserves mention alongside global elite.

The aura of quality and their incredible line-up of diverse, delicious cakes, breads and pastries comprise a winning formula 30 years in the making.

Bakery in Focus
Granted, Mrs. London's true "culinary perspective" is slightly confusing, but who cares! I'm about to embark on a decadent odyssey stretching across continents, cultures and several centuries. Accompanied by a perfect cappuccino, with properly frothed milk, I swiftly set aside the silverware and place a napkin straight onto my lap. No time to waste, I know something special is about to happen. Something worth telling lots of people about. To make a very long and enjoyable story short, everything was extraordinary. Even their soup was fantastic and I hate soup. Sincerely, Mrs. London's is about the best I've ever had and is testament to the 30 plus year union enjoyed by co-owners and husband and wife, Michael and Wendy London. But, to really understand Mrs. London's and what makes this bakery flat out better than any bakery, anywhere, one must appreciate the history and the road not taken. Michael London is an interesting guy. Starting out his professional life as a poet and Skidmore College literary instructor back in the 1960's, Michael soon found himself searching for a higher, artistic plane. Where poetry could provide an outlet for his cerebral creativity, it failed to deliver on a greater sense of communal inclusiveness. What he yearned for was a medium that could provide both: artistic expression while affording a sense of belonging. He found this elusive canvas in baking.

s there is with certain people, there is about some places, a kind of magic. An elusive, indefinable something that sets that shop, restaurant, eatery or bistro apart and makes it special. Call it the "The Wow", "It Factor", "Ie Ne Sais Quoi" or just old fashion charm. Whatever IT is, Mrs. London's has IT in spades. First off, I see no need to declare Mrs. London's one of "America's best" anything. Nope. I'll leave that to Saveur, Food and Wine and The New York Times. Frankly speaking, such a geographically limiting qualifier fails to put into perspective just how good Mrs. London's is and where it ranks among the global elite. In my humble opinion, I feel very comfortable interjecting this Upstate New York beauty into any who's who discussion involving the likes of Poilane, Fauchon, Pasteleria Totel, Sadaharu Aoki and Payard. What I love most about Mrs. London's is the absolute commitment to quality and its ability to convey exclusiveness without being pretentious. Much like one's first encounter with the touch, feeland smell of a luxury car or the sense of bewilderment at seeing real, monogrammed hand towels being dispensed in bathrooms at 5-star hotels. An afternoon at Mrs. London's puts you in the same frame of mind and like the aforementioned, becomes an experience that stays with you in the form of a psychological benchmark by which all others are measured. Situated on the main drag in historic downtown Saratoga Springs, Mrs. London's is not an especially large shop. "Cozy" comes to mind, but under these circumstances, on this picturesque street, with their small, marble topped tables, old world oak chairs (nice heft), seductive aromas and well-appointed chair rails, the cramped dining room becomes a nonissue as I am swept up in the total experience. Upon arrival, I quickly secured my seating and set out to find the back of the counter line. Being 20 people deep, I slowly commenced the meandering journey to the cashier. Immediately, I am taken aback by the range, size and sheer diversity of what's on offer. The beautiful Framboise, consisting of a heavenly mixture of raspberry mousse and raspberry coulis along side an exquisite Pas de Deux. Then, the generously portioned classic fresh fruit tarts. Ah hah! But wait, just when I thought I had Mrs. London's pegged, here comes the interpretive cannoli, decked out with pistachios and candied orange peel!? Throw on top of that a Kugelhopf (Alsatian yeasted coffee cake), add a funky Babka infused with dark chocolate and rum soaked

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Clickwise from top: outside seating; famous fire bread; chocolate

Consumed with his new found passion, Michael London moved to New York City in 1970 and like many great bakers before him, learned the craft at the feet of industry masters. Along the way, he met Wendy Wadham (aka Mrs. London) a kindred spirit and fellow devotee of yeast, flour, eggs and the earthy goodness derived from their innumerable permutations. Tired of the city grind, Michael and Wendy, now married, packed it in and headed to Saratoga Springs in the summer of 1977.As a former resident, Michael was keenly aware of the resort town's dearth of quality confections. His plan was to fill the void. By the fall of 1985, Michael and Wendy had accomplished what they set out to do: Mrs. London's was the talk of Saratoga. Offering a wide variety of breads and pastries, their small, side street shop achieved routine sellouts and standing room only weekends. Pushing maximum capacity in both the front and back of the house, the Londons had outgrown their original space and it became time for affirmative action. Expand into the adjoining shop? Centralized production with decentralized counter outlets? Franchising? How about shutting down the shop entirely and launching a new, wholesale artisan bread business called Rock Hill Bakehouse? Yes,I know what you are thinking-new business with unrelated name seems the logical choice. An amazing aspect of human endeavor is the direct correlation between success and true passion. Have love for what you do and more often than not, the results are positive. In Michael London's case, the results were ground- breaking. Lauded as a pioneer and boulanger savant, the European style farm breads baked by Rock Hill Bakehouse earned Michael international recognition and landed supply contracts from some of Manhattan's most quality conscious institutions including Le Bernardin, Lutece, Lespinasse and Aureole. But a funny thing happened on the

way to licensing and early retirement; Michael London's inner artiste required continuing education in the pastry arts. The year is 1996 and in a move more perplexing than the 1985 closure of Mrs. London's #1, Michael London leaves the highly regarded Rock Hill Bakehouse to travel to France for an apprenticeship at Patisserie Gerard Mulot and a stint at Fauchon even though 50-something year old London speaks not a word of French. With Gerard Mulot's English only slightly better, Brooklyn adaptability met Saint-Germain savoir-faire in the form of grunts, finger pointing, exasperation, discovery and eventually mutual respect. After a month in the trenches with Parisian pastry purists, Michael was reenergized, excited and ready to push the creative envelop. He returned to Saratoga where he and Wendy launched the second incarnation of their bakery, the one still open today and located at 464 Broadway. During peak season (July-August) Mrs. London's will ring up 35% of their yearly business. The place is a madhouse from open to close, but luckily, the Londons have great people working with them. Lena Favaloro and Zeke Vaughn are two talented and experienced bakers working in shifts, keeping the

Bakery in Focus
P&B NA: Aside from the magazine and TV coverage, what kind of marketing program do you implement here at Mrs. London's? ML: None. We rely completely on word of mouth. But keep in mind, this version of Mrs. London's has been around for 10 years and it took about 6-7 years for us to reinvent ourselves and become a "destination" once again. Just this morning, we received a call from a Manhattan couple who placed a pastry order for their party tomorrow. They're driving up this afternoon to have lunch and pick up the order. We have regained the status we once enjoyed at our height in 1985 and we are happy to once again be part of the fabric that makes Saratoga fantastic.

-ovens humming 24 hours a day. Pastry chef Tim Hangarter, Michael's right hand, is responsible for much of the day-today pastry production. Together, these critical team members coordinate effortlessly with the front of the house and ensure the cases are full and everyone is happy. Which is a good thing, considering Michael London's quasi-celebrity affords him little time in the kitchen. On any given day, chances are he can be found working the very crowded dining area, greeting old friends and the hoards of customers who have traveled near and far for the spa, ballet, track and bit of Mrs. London's unparalleled goodness. During my recent visit, I was able to get a few quiet moments with Michael and what follows are the highlights from that interview.

P&B NA: Two slamming months of business are better than none, but what's it like the rest of the year around here? Quiet? ML: Actually, Saratoga is becoming more and more of a culinary hub for the Capital District Region (Albany, Schenectady and Troy) and we get steady business year round requiring us to be open normal hours, 6 days a week. P&B NA: Obviously, you and Wendy are very talented. Do you regret not operating in a bigger market? Say New York City? ML: Yesand no. Since our daughter now lives in New York City that would be wonderful. Also, we love eating in Manhattan, but we would have to quintuple our sales to afford the rent and triple our staff to meet the output. In that case, I can't help but think something would be lost in the hustle and more large scale environment.

P&B NA: How's business this summer? ML: Terrific. We continue to benefit from Saratoga's exceptional summer line-up including the New York City Ballet, Philadelphia Orchestra and the Saratoga Chamber Music Festival. P&B NA: With Saveur magazine naming you "America's Greatest Baker" have you been signing lots of autographs? ML: No. But I can tell you the article certainly has been good

Bakery in Focus

ML: I am heartened to see a bread revolution. However, I am concerned how easily "artisan" is bandied around in today's media messages. To me "artisan" means made by hand, but with the advent of advanced technologies in baking, how can anything that is mass-produced be "artisan"? Such a deluge only serves to dilute the effort and skill of true artisan bakers. P&B NA: How about the state of pastry in the United States? Encouraging? ML: Discouraging. Whereas bread has been revitalized, pastry is still suffering from second-class citizen status due to the fact it is not considered real food here in the States. In most bakeries and restaurants, sugar is seen as a primary ingredient in most pastries. It shouldn't be that way. So many tastes and nuances are lost and the American palate dulled by the over-sweetening of everything. Sugar should be used sparingly just like salt, pepper and spices. Not until the American middle market starts to treat pastry and dessert as an equal part of a meal will there be changes to this paradigm. P&B NA: Describe your culinary perspective?

P&B: Care to elaborate? ML: Regardless of what it is, breads, cookies, pastries or chocolates, we strive to bring all the flavors together in a symphony of excellence. Starting with the best ingredients and a firm understanding of the classics, we then test, tweak, eat and test some more until we get the most from the ingredients and our effort. P&B NA: What does the future for Mrs. London's hold? New outlets, expansion? ML: We are truly excited about the opening of our new restaurant, Max London's, scheduled for September 2007. We secured the space next door to Mrs. London's and the kitchen will be helmed by our son Max.

P&B AP: What culinary trend drives you crazy? ML: Don't know if you would call it a "culinary trend", but a friend and I were talking recently about how every restaurant menu now crows about their relationship with the farmer. "We buy direct from Farmer XYZ". Don't get me wrong, supporting local farmers is a great thing and I'm all for it. But, fresh ingredients don't make up for bad cooking: as if the ingredients themselves were enough to guarantee a top-notch meal.

ML: Old world, rustic Mediterranean. Tapas, thin crust pizza, innovative pasta etc. We believe this is the natural progression of all our interests and gives all of us at Mrs. London's the opportunity to flex our creativity in the form of desserts and treats not befit for a retail display cases. Personally, I've alwayswanted to pair wines with desserts and that's one of my first projects. Also, we can now experiment and create plated desserts utilizing sauces, sorbets, ice creams .. .it's going to be fun. P&:BNA: Thank you very much for your time. It's been a real pleasure meeting you and Wendy and experiencing Mrs. London's. In dosing, what advice can you give someone who is interested in starting his own bakery? ML: Make sure you have a relative in the refrigeration business. Sorry, old joke. But seriously: eat very well, experience different

CHOCOLATE
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INNOVATION IN

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Recipe made by

RECIPES

7. Bag out two 6" circles
for the bottom and center of the Charlotte. Dust with powdered sugar and bake at 400°F until lightly golden. 8. Line 8" ring or cake pan with a 4" band of parchment paper. Using a serrated knife, remove the ladyfingers in a strip from the parchment and line your mold. 9. Place a disk of the ladyfinger sponge on the bottom and reserve the second disk for the cream stage.

Rustic Apple Tarts
Yield: 4 tarts 19 oz (IVs"thick 5"x 5") slab of puff pastry dough 3 large apples (9-10 oz each) 8 slices each *Note: We use Spy Gold or Granny Smith for their crispness and acidity.

Tart Butter
1/2 cup unsalted butter 4 tbsp sugar 4 tbsp light brown sugar V4fresh vanilla bean, split and scraped 1. Using a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, add the fresh vanilla seed and cream further. 2. Add both sugars until well incorporated. 3. Place in covered container and refrigerate. Method 1. Roll out the dough on lightly floured surface until 14" from top to bottom and 15" from left to right and a thickness of approximately Vs". During rolling, gently lift the dough to ensure it isn't sticking to the surface. Once complete, place rolled out dough on parchment lined tray and freeze for 10 minutes. 2. Remove dough from freezer and using a sharp knife or pastry wheel cut out four 6V2"squares. With a wide spatula invert the squares onto parchment lined baking trays and refrigerate. 3. With squares well chilled, place 4 apple slices, rounded sides outward, kiddy cornered on the pastry square, leaving about a 2" margin from each corner. The corners of each slice should just about touch each other forming a sort of curved diamond. Fold each corner over the center of each slice and the fold the areas between the corners over the slices. Cup the tart in your hands to help form the circle. Prick the center of each tart a few times with a fork and nestle 2 apple slices into the center. 4. Divide the apple tart butter into 4 oz portions and spoon each portion on the center of the tart. 5. Lift tarts onto parchment lined tray and refrigerate. Once chilled, make egg wash with 1 egg and pinch of salt and brush the wash onto the pastry. 6. Place into pre-heated 450°F oven for 20 minutes and continue baking at 360°F for another 40 minutes.

Vanilla Bavarian Cream
13V2milk 4V2oz sugar 1 vanilla bean, split Be scraped 4 oz egg yolk 5 If2 sheets gelatin 10 If2 oz heavy cream

Wendy and Michael London along with pastry chef Tim Hangarter and baker Lena Favaloro.

Raspberry Charlotte
Yield: One 8" diameter cake

1. Heat the milk with the vanilla bean and IlJ2oz of sugar. 2. With the remaining sugar, whisk the yolk until light and pale yellow. As the milk mixture begins to boil, add milk to the yolk sugar mixture, whisking continuously. 3. Return to a saucepan and cook until 221°F or when mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon. 4. Strain and add soaked/squeezed gelatin. Cool mixture over an ice bath until it thickens slightly and then fold in If3 of the heavy creamed (whipped) before folding in the remaining cream. Assembly 1. Pour half of the cream in an 8" ring or cake pan and sprinkle with a row of fresh raspberries. 2. Add on top the reserved, second disc of ladyfinger sponge and repeat the process. 3. Chill overnight. 4. Decorate with fresh raspberries, strawberries and dust with powdered sugar or glaze with strained preserves

Ladyfinger Sponge
4 V2oz egg whites 4 oz sugar 3 oz yolk 2 oz cake flour 1 3/4 oz potato starch 1. Draw on parchment paper two parallel lines 3V2"apart and two 6" diameter circles. 2. Beat the yolks at room temperature with 1 oz of sugar until thick and pale in color. 3. Warm the whites over and whip them stiff, slowly adding the remaining 3 oz of sugar. 4. Whisk the potato starch into the whites and then fold in the yolk mixture. 5. Finish by gently folding in the cake flour. 6. Using a 3/S" plain tip, pipe between the parallel lines ladyfingers approximately 1/4"apart. They will grow together during the baking and

Creative Cakes

Belgian chocolate mousse with poached Forelle pears, milk chocolate sponge and almond-praline crisp.

Ingredients:

Equipment:

6-8 Forelle pears Veliche Chocolat Lait 34% Veliche Chocolat Noir 62% Praline paste Feuilletine wafers Almond paste Amaretto liqueur Almonds

Molds-PCB Emeraude (KT218) Mold release spray Spray gun and compressor Stencil forms for bases Silicone baking mat Acetate plastic sheets

Publisher's Note: Chef FrankVolikommer CMPC, (Certified Master Pastry Chef) is the Corporate Executive Chef for Cargill Cocoa & Chocolate headquartered in Lititz, PA Chef Vollkommer; a former instructor at both The Culinary Institute of America and The New England Culinary Institute has earned the distinction of Certified Master Pastry Chef through the America Culinary Federation. Chef Vollkommer passed the rigorous ten-day exam in 2005 becoming one of thirteen Certified Master Pastry Chefs in the world. Email: pastrychef@cargill.com

Cl1otolcite Velvet

Poached Forelle Pears

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1. Poach four to six Forelle pears in syrup

flavored with vanilla, cinnamon, orange zest, and white wine. Remove the pears from the pot, cover with syrup and cool completely. 2. Slice the poached pears into wedges taking care to remove the core and seeds. Milk 220g 1909 12g 6g 42g 1909 96g 128g Chocolate Sponge Veliche Chocolat Lait 34% butter, soft egg yolks vanilla extract invert sugar egg whites sugar cake flour, sifted I.

3-4. Prepare the Milk Chocolate Sponge according to the recipe below and spread evenly on a parchment lined half sheet pan. Cool the cake completely, remove from the pan and cut ovals using a pre-made template. Cream the butter, invert sugar and yolks until light with a paddle. Add the extract and the melted chocolate slowly. Make a medium peak meringue with the whites and sugar. Fold into above.

II.

III. Gently fold in the cake flour and spread evenly onto a half sheet pan. IV. Bake @ 350°F for approx. 10-15 minutes. 8-9. To make the toasted almond ganache, heat the cream to a scald, pour over the chocolate and stir to combine. Cool the mixture to 90°F. Separately, combine the soft butter and almond paste to a smooth consistency with the almonds. Add the butter and almond paste mixture to the ganache with the Amaretto. Set aside to cool. Toasted Almond Ganache 56g cream 60g Veliche, Chocolat Noir 58% 8g butter, soft 15g almond paste, soft 4 Amaretto

5-6. To make the almond-praline crisp, melt the milk chocolate with the praline paste. Pour the milk chocolate-praline mixture over the feuilletine wafers and almonds. Combine well. 7. Spread the almond-praline crisp mixture into pre-cut forms placed on a silicone baking mat. Remove the form and chill the bases until set. Almond-Praline Crisp 64g Veliche, Chocolat Lait 34% 15g praline paste 64g feuilletine wafers 30g almonds, toasted and granulated

Creative

Cakes

10-1l.

Spread a small amount of the toasted almond ganache onto the prepared almond praline crisp bases. Place the pre-cut milk chocolate sponge onto the bases. Spread a thin layer of ganache on top of the milk chocolate sponge and arrange the wedges of poached pear. Chill briefly to set the pears into the ganache. Prepare the Belgian chocolate mousse according to the recipe. Spray the molds lightly with mold release and fill with mousse, leaving a one-inch space at the top. 16. To create interesting chocolate garnishes using acetate plastic, cut the chocolate before it is completely set and roll the acetate into tubes. After the chocolate has fully crystallized, carefully remove the plastic.

12.

13.

14-15. Turn the pre-assembled bases over and place on top of the chocolate mousse. Press down slightly and remove any excess mousse. Place the molds in the freezer overnight.

Belgian Chocolate Mousse 340g Veliche, Chocolat Lait 34% 34lg Veliche, Chocolat Noir 62% 115g eggs 140g sugar 109 gelatin 109 Amaretto 270g heavy cream
I.

Melt the two chocolates together. Warm the eggs and sugar together over a water bath to 140°F and whip until stiff and cool. 17. Un-mold the cakes and spray with a 2:1 mixture of chocolate and cocoa butter to create a velvet finish. Garnish with poached

II.

III. Whip the cream to soft peaks. IV. Bloom and melt the gelatin with the liqueur.

Chef in Focus

Boston's Truly Talented Pastry Chef

J org Amsler is winning the hearts and minds of New Englanders by thinking locally and employing pragmatic business sense.
By Campbell
Photography Ross Walker by S 1G

Chef in Focus

ruly]org's appeared on my radar courtesy of a college buddy from Beantown. When I told him I was planning an expedition through New England in search of pastry talent, his one word response was swift and definite: "JORG". In an accent straight from central casting, my food loving pal went on to praise the talents of Jorg Amsler, chef and owner of Truly]org's. With two locations in the Boston area, my friend assured me "everyone in New England knows of Iorg's" and his pastry and desserts are "wicked awesome". For those of you unfamiliar with Boston speak, no higher praise can be bestowed. I was intrigued. After some research a la Google, a call was placed and I politely offered introductions and stated purpose. The initial feedback from Chef Jorg was positive so I aggressively scheduled an interview and photo shoot the next day. Having him on the hook, I decided to push my luck and inquired about the possibility of including a fruit carving demo. Thanks to YouTube, I was virally introduced to Iorg's ability with the knife and from the video, his skills looked on par with chefs from Southeast Asia. So, I pitched Iorg for the carving demo and possible inclusion in the article figuring this request could go one of two ways. Either he would be completely put off by my interest in featuring culinary dexterity often seen as falling outside the lines of a true "patissier" or he would begrudgingly agree with the hope I soon forgot all about it. However, much to my surprise and without any contemplation, he answered "Hell yeah. That would be cool. What do you need?" Well, what

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When I am "on the road", I embrace immersion. I always get out there among and within the local environs. Back alley coffee shop in Mumbai. Town pub overlooking a rustic meadow in Ireland. Flavored ice shavings from a street vendor in Italy. Bring it on. But, I have to admit, this semi adventurous mindset is reserved for overseas visits. Thus, I was ill prepared for my journey into the depths of the Boston produce terminals and it soon became apparent that following Iorg in my own car was a bad idea. Being confident and familiar with the congested streets, graffiti sprayed buildings and mountains of misplaced pallets, Chef Jorg negotiated his mini van like a F1 driver through what can only be described as the back lot of "Escape From New York': Seriously, I saw Snake Pliskin driving a forklift. But, a writer's job is to stay close, observe and get the whole story and this risky excursion provided invaluable insight into Iorg Amsler the pastry chef and business owner. "Sure, the place is a bit rough, but I try to get down there a few times a week. The berries and fruit come direct from the farm so you can't beat the freshness. I also save about 40% by buying direct which certainly adds up," Iorg explained, as we sat at his shop enjoying a well deserved cup of tea. Jorg, like many pastry entrepreneurs, constantly faces the internal conflict of requiring the highest quality ingredients while trying to minimize overall spend and keeping his pricing affordable for the middle market. "Boston is not Paris. So, the appreciation for tradition pastry is hardly pervasive but it is

with a smile "and I'm stoked that our macarons sell-out consistently." With broader, gastronomic appreciation growing rapidly in the United States, Iorg is savvy enough to make the most of his European upbringing. Note the umlaut ( .. ) in his logo. "I love being an American and living in this country, but I want my customers to know I'm from Switzerland. It helps, particularly in Boston, a town built by immigrants. The locals may not be familiar with the different breads, cakes and pastry we make, but they link "European" to craftsmanship and quality of product. With a limited promotional budget, we try to use everything and anything to get them in the door. From there on, it's my job to deliver on the good stuff and keep them coming back for more," says J org. Born in Brazil while his parents were stationed on an overseas posting, J org and his family moved back to Switzerland when he was 6 months old and he enjoyed a typical childhood growing up in a small village outside Schaffhausen. Not a superstar in the classroom, Iorg was often distracted by the outside world. In particular, the local bakery whose smells of bready, sugary goodness wafted all the way to the Amsler household. "I remember like it was yesterday walking to school in the morning and the unmistakable aroma of fresh baked bread. From then on I was hooked. But, I had to wait until high school before I got a chance to earn a two week internship at the bakery. I landed the gig and the rest is history." That history includes attending pastry school in Zurich where Iorg encountered a young substitute instructor by the name of

Ewald Notter. "Chef Notter was great. He was our occasional substitute and without fail, no matter what the subject of the day, he would lead the class in some sort of sugar work. 'You guys all know the basics right? No need to go over that .. .let's pull some sugar' he would say. That was fun." After completing pastry school, Iorg secured an apprenticeship at the elite Swiss bakery Rhor where he spent 3 long and arduous years as low man on the totem pole. "Yes,pastry apprenticeship in Europe is as tough as you hear. The work is exhausting and often 7 days per week. Yet, I was lucky in that Chef Bommeli really embraced the true sense of the relationship and made it a point to always make sure I was learning and growing my skills. They got their pound of flesh and then some, but in retrospect, it was priceless, real life experience," recalls J org. With his skills polished, Iorg was off to see the world starting with a position in Montreal at the Beaver Club Restaurant in the Queen Elizabeth Hotel. After winning several pastry honors in Canada, he was asked to teach at the Culinary Institute of Quebec. In 1988, Iorg traveled around the globe three times as the youngest executive pastry chef for the Royal Viking cruise line. Passengers awarded Iorg's desserts and pastry displays the highest marks the pastry department had ever scored prior to his tenure. After leaving Royal Viking, Iorg interned briefly with Master Chef Paul Bocuse in Lyon. In 1990, the pastry wiz moved to the United States and spent the next ten years working on the West and East Coasts. By 2000, J org was ready to strike out on his own, opening Truly ]arg's patisserie in Chelsea, Massachusetts. His shop was

Clockwise from top: The view from behind Chef Jorg's van; Sushi box featured on "The

Chef in Focus

STEP BY STEP

MELON DEMO
1. Peel off melon skin in thin layers exposing the white layer between the red interior and the green skin. Save the peeled skin pieces to carve leaves.

2. Use a round, fluted cookie cutter to mark the center of the flower. Push into the melon. 3. Allowing a 1/4 inch space from the edge of the cookie cutter punch out, cut around and remove. 4. With the knife pointing towards the center of the melon cut out 8 petals. 5. Continue cutting petals moving outward from the center and always place the new petal between two petals from the previous circle. Continue until you have covered 1J2 half of the melon. 6 With the knife at a steep angel cut out the center of each petal and remove the small pieces. Now the red color starts to show and the carving becomes more three dimensional. 7. Cut a zigzag pattern around the entire 8. Use the green skin peels from Step 1 to create leaf shaped pieces. Cut out a center line from top to bottom and three lines on each side from the center line toward the outside of the leaf. Make some V-cuts from the outside of the leaf toward the center inbetween the three lines on both sides. 9. Cut off the rounded end of the melon to display

Chef in Focus

an instant success, out-growing the original space within a year. Iorg closed that Chelsea operation to launch a larger facility in Saugus (just north of Boston) in 2001. In August 2006, J org took the next step in the development of his business: opening a second outlet. With famous Fenway Park just across the street, Iorg scored a small retail space in Kenmore Square at the Hotel Commonwealth. Initially attracted by the progressive, up-market revitalization of the neighborhood, Iorg soon discovered his ability to provide street level, patio seating. "That changed everything. Once my petition for outdoor seating was approved, we immediately became more prominent in the mind's eye of passing customers." Sparing no expense at fit out, Truly]org's Kenmore Square offers comfortable, canopy seating with sturdy, wrought iron mesh tables, perfect for enjoying his delectable croissants, scones and pastries along with homemade jams and gourmet coffee. But, expansion begets certain trials and tribulations. "Indeed, a second outlet is a dream come true but even though it is a 'smaller' shop, the time and effort required is the same if not more due to our centralized production approach. I find that open (and constant) lines of communication are vital to ensure smooth operations. For instance, we now make 2 daily deliveries to Kenmore Square, but if we get hit unusually hard in the morning, we need to be able to spring into action and get a third deliver down there. Basically,it's all high level coordination AND hiring great people who care," says Iorg,

he tries to infuse "Europeanness" into his approach, reflected in his product range, interior design and his logo. But, above and beyond these corporate messages, Jorg is a one man promotional juggernaut. Ifhe is not donating his time to numerous area charities such as Boys & Girls Club of Boston and the Greater Boston Food Bank, he is participating in events like the New York Chocolate Show where he worked with fashion designers Richie Rich and Traver Rains to create a gown embroidered with over 20 pounds of white chocolate. As luck would have it, the "The Today Show" producers decided to feature Jorg's dress and a box of his chocolate sushi during their coverage of the event. So, with all this publicity, you might think Iorg retains a high flying PR firm. Think again. "We don't have that kind of budget. Instead of relying on just word of mouth, I give a lot of my time. I see every event, no matter how small, as an opportunity to meet people and spread the word of Truly larg's. It's my responsibility to be the ambassador for the business. I'm the owner and my name is on the sign." And it's this "getting my name out there" approach that lead to his best and brightest exposure to date. Airing July 15,2007 at 10:00 pm and rerun the entire week, millions of viewers were introduced to Chef Iorg's creativity on "Food Network Challenge: Extreme Cakes". Judged by "Ace of Cakes" star Duff Goldman and his team from Charm City Cakes, the contestants were tasked with building the most radical cake, enveloping the ideal of "extreme': Iorg, handy with power tools from overseeing construction and renovation on his shops, stole the show (and frightened a few bystanders) with his extreme Swiss Army Knife cake complete with moving rolling pins, butcher knives, egg beaters and torches. Assisted by friend and fellow chef Peter Ungar, the extreme Swiss Army Knife however lacked sufficient "cakiness" to capture 1st place but no big deal to Amsler. "I definitely wanted to win but for me it was all about the experience. Lots of fun, a live audience, heat of competition and the opportunity to create something very cool. Just great."

RECIPES: Cherry Almond Tart
Sugar dough
4

oz sugar 8 oz butter 12 oz flour 1 egg 1 tbsp vanilla

1. Cream butter and sugar until smooth. 2. Add eggs and vanilla slowly until combined. Add the flour and mix to firm dough. 3. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and store in refrigerator for two hours. 4. After cooling, roll out sugar dough to 1f4 of an inch, cut out circles and place the dough into muffin tins or tart shells.

Almond filling ( frangipane )
3 oz butter 6 oz almond paste 1 egg 1. Cream almond paste and butter until soft and fluffy.Add eggs to almond batter, continuously mixing for another minute. 2. In the prepared sugar dough tart shells, fill with frangipane about 3/4 high. 3. Top off the tarts with cherry pie filling and sprinkle with sliced almonds. 4. Bake cherry almond tarts at 325°F for 20-30 minutes.

Pistachio Eclairs
Chouxpaste
1/2 cup butter 1 cup water 1f4 tsp salt 1 cup flour 4 eggs Back at his main production outlet in Saugus, J org wraps up another hectic day and it is out the door to make an appearance at a local Yelp.com event highlighting the areas best and brightest culinarians. Held in a downtown restaurant, Iorg brings cookies and cakes for the 22 attendees and takes the opportunity to explain his approach to flavor, taste, style and texture. "At Truly ]org's, we don't embrace completely the recent trend in avant-garde pastry but we will, from time to time, inject some fun into our products. For example, here is our pistachio eclair, filled with interesting flavors of creme patissiere and glazed with a light fondant. I find this more suitable and acceptable here in Boston than say what they are doing at Fauchon". This is exactly the kind of stuff "foodies" love to talk about and they are hanging on his ever word. But don't get me wrong, Iorg is not the least bit patronizing. To the contrary, he is there in high spirits, genuinely interested, fielding questions and building his brand within a certain demographic that not only contributes greatly to his bottom line but who also provide invaluable feedback. He is the only chef to make an appearance at the event and here in lies the difference. Being a great pastry chef is not enough these days. You have to sell yourself and your products wherever
1. In a 2 quart saucepan over medium heat, heat butter, water

and salt until boiling. 2. Remove from heat. Add flour all at once. With wooden spoon, stir until mixture forms a ball and leaves side of pan. 3. Add eggs to flour mixture, one at a time, beating well after each addition until smooth. 4. Cool mixture slightly. With a large star tip, pipe 4 inch long lines on a paper lined sheet pan. 5. Bake at 350°F for 40 minutes or until golden and firm. 6. Remove to cooling racks.

Pistachio filling
cup sugar 1f4 cup flour 1f4 tsp salt 11/2 cup milk 6 egg yolk 3 tbsp pistachio puree 1 1/2 cup heavy cream
3/4

1. Over medium heat, cook sugar, flour, salt and milk stirring until mixture thickens and boils, about 10 minutes. 2. In a small bowl with fork, beat egg yolks slightly and then beat a small amount of the milk mixture into the yolks. Slowly pour egg mixture back into milk mixture (stirring). Cook over medium-low heat, stirring until mixture thickens and coats spoon (about 8 minutes, do not boil). 3. Remove from heat and stir in pistachio puree. Chill about 2 hours. 4. In a small bowl with mixer at medium speed, beat heavy cream until stiff peaks form. With rubber spatula, gently fold cream into custard. Assembly 1. Using a long serrated knife, cut the eclair partly open starting at one end and cutting halfway through to the middle of the eclair. Using a pastry bag, pipe the custard filling onto the eclair starting to fill in the uncut end then moving down to the cut end. 2. Top with icing of your choice and sprinkle finely chopped pistachio.

Key Lime Tart
Graham cracker dough
4

oz sugar 8 oz butter 12 oz flour 1 egg 1 tbsp vanilla 4 oz graham crackers crumbs 1. Cream butter and sugar until smooth. 2. Add eggs and vanilla slowly until combined. Add the graham cracker crumbs with the flour and mix to firm dough. 3. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and store in refrigerator for two hours. 4. After cooling, roll out graham cracker dough to 1/4 of an inch, cut out circles and place the dough into muffin tins or tart shells. 5. Blind bake shells at 325°P to a light golden brown.

Key lime filling
14 oz sweetened condense milk (one can) 3 egg yolk 1/2 cup key lime juice 1. Combine all ingredients.

Wild Sweets

A

Agar gains acceptance as a culinary hydrocolloid due to its versatility and lack of animal bi-product.

Publisher's Note: Dominique and Cindy Duby are the chefs and owners of DC DUBYWild Sweets®, a critically acclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which has emerged as one of North America's finest artisan chocolatiers.The couple also owns DC DUBY
Hospitality Services Inc., a Vancouver-based international firm offering culinary training and consulting services to hotels and catering companies worldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing services such as product development, food styling, and photography. For more information, visit www.dcduby.com

DC DUBY

I ELEMENTS I AGAR
are increasingly becoming from red point and

Although gelatin is by far the major hydrocolloid used for gelling, other hydrocolloids is a polysaccharide water but following common in modern western cuisine, particularly agar. Agar (galactose sugar) obtained heating to the boiling seaweed (Rhodophycae) species. Agar is insoluble in cold

subsequent cooling, the long molecules of agar start to lose energy and line up to form a network gelling up to 99.5% of the liquid within. Agar forms clear, stable and firm gels that remains solid up to temperatures of about 80 C (180 P). Agar
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has similar applications as gelatin, but unlike gelatin it allows gels to be made and served hot. This unique property provides opportunities to make preparations with novel tastes and/or textures. This following recipe showcases an example of a hot

Wild Sweets

HOT ORANGE CARROT GELEEWHITE CHOCOLATE CHEESEMOUSSE
Serves 8

Hot Orange Carrot Geh!e lJ2 cup (125 mL) carrot juice lJ2 cup (125 mL) orange juice
1 tsp (5 mL) DC DUBY Elements Agar" 1 Tbsp (15 mL) honey lJ2 leaf gelatin *NB: Other sources of agar may be substituted, but gelling properties and firmness may differ.

Juicing carrots. Line a 4 x 8 inch (10 x 20 em) heatproof, shallow container with plastic wrap.

Place the carrot and orange juice in a tall and narrow container. Add the agar powder.

Blend with an immersion blender.

Store the Gelee in the refrigerator

Chocolate
1/3

Cheese Mousse

cup (80 g) cream cheese, room temperature 1 Tbsp (15 mL) honey 2 Tbsp (30 mL) whipping cream 4.5 oz (125 g) white chocolate, melted

Beat the cream cheese, honey, and whipping cream with an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment until light and fluffy. Pour the white chocolate over the mixture in a steady stream while continuously beating. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator until set.

Suggested Assembly Cut the Hot Orange Carrot Gelee into desired shapes. Top the Celee with some Chocolate Cheese Mousse piped or shaped in the middle and decorate with a Carrot Chip and mint leaves. Optionally, finish with beads of Fig Mint Confit,

Asian Fusion

Cantaloupe Roll Cake
In Korea, we use "Kabocha" a.k.a. sweet pumpkin for this recipe. But in North America, we can use a cantaloupe which is a close relative. Regardless of the fruit, this cake is visually appealing and the uncommon combination of melon, sponge and cream is delicious and certain to provoke commentary and the attention of your guests.

RECIPE
Sponge
5 egg yolks 1 tablespoon sugar 4 egg whites 1f2 c sugar 1f4 c cake flour 2 tablespoons cantaloupe powder 1-1f2 tablespoons unsalted butter 20 ml milk 1f2 cantaloupe 1f4 cup cantaloupe seeds

Custard cream (2/3 cup):
90ml milk 1f4 vanilla bean 1 egg yolk 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon cake flour 2/3 tablespoon unsalted butter

Publisher-'s Note: Successful entrepreneur, award winning author, instructor, international representative and current President of the Korean Baker's Association, Chef Kim Young Mo is an institution. As a trailblazing visionary in the pastry and baking fusion movement, Chef Kim marries his classical European training with his appreciation for Asian ingredients and tastes. Photos and text courtesy Dream Character, Inc.

Cantaloupe cream
1f4 cup and 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1f4 cup cooked cantaloupe, mashed. 3/4 cup custard cream

Before you begin 1. Preheat the oven to 430 P/220°C.
o

2. Grease or line the 15" x l l" (38cm x 28cm) rectangular cake pan with parchment paper. Thinly slice the cantaloupe (about 18 pieces) and place them in the pan. Place cantaloupe seeds between the slices. 3. Mix and sift the cake flour and set aside. 4. Put unsalted butter and milk (from sponge ingredients) in a bowl and place the bowl over hot water to melt the butter. Butter should be completely melted before adding to the batter.

2. In a separate bowl, place egg whites and 2nd sugar and beat until stiff meringue. Add the egg yolk + 1st sugar mixture and gently fold in.

Prepare custard cream 1. Put egg yolks in a bowl and lightly whisk and set aside. Mix and sift the cake flour and sugar and set aside. 2. Add the whisked egg yolks to the sifted flour and sugar mixture and whisk well. Make sure to whisk until the mixture becomes creamy. 3. Put milk, butter, and vanilla bean seeds in a pot and heat at medium to 17s P/80 C (*Remove the seeds from the vanilla bean casing before adding to the pot). Add milk mixture to a Step 2. Keep whisking as you pour the mix. Rest a sieve over a clean pot and pour in the batter mixture.
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Add cake flour, pumpkin powder and fold in using a rubber spatula. Put a small portion of the batter into the melted milk + butter mixture and mix together. Then, pour the butter mixture into the batter and quickly fold in the butter.

4. Put the pot over a low to medium heat and keep whisking while you are cooking the batter. The batter will thicken as you keep it over the heat. Continue whisking. Remove it from the heat when the batter becomes a thick cream and transfer the batter to a bowl. Place the bowl over a bowl of ice water and slowly stir as the custard cream cools. Sponge 1. Lightly whisk the egg yolks in a large bowl and add 1st sugar and whisk well.

Asia Fusion
5. In a preheated oven, bake for approximately 9 minutes at 430'F/220'C. "It is important to double the pan when you bake this sponge. Also, spray some water between the baking pans; this will help to get the light color at the bottom of the sponge. Shape and Decoration 1. Remove the sponge and cool it on a rack. When the sponge is completely cooled down, carefully remove the parchment paper and place the sponge over a piece of paper with the dark colored side up (the paper should be larger than the sponge).

Pumpkin Cream 1. Whisk the butter in a bowl until it is soft and creamy. Add the mashed cantaloupe and custard cream and mix.

Apply a thin layer of pumpkin cream over the sponge using a spatula. Fold about 1" (2.5cm) of the long end of the parchment over the cake tightly to start the roll. Once the roll is well underway, lift the end of the parchment paper to roll up the cake as evenly as possible.

Tuck the end of the paper underneath the finished roll to tighten it. Once you finish rolling, leave it for about 15 minutes to hold its shape.

Artisan Baker

DOUGH
Ingredients
Pane Luciane Mix Dried Yeast Strong Bread Flour Water 1st Addition Water 2nd Addition % Batch 80 20

Weight
0.800 kg 0.200 kg 0.010 kg 0.650 kg 0.120 kg
Publisher's Nate: Dean Brettschneider
patissier with an international is a professional author baker and foliowing.Award-winning of three best-

1
65 12

selling books on the subject, Dean is also a regular columnist publications, and manages technical support for the world's

in baking industry largest supplier in China,

of baking ingredients,

BakeMarl< International.

Living and working

Dean's mission is education world.Visit

and raising the level of baking skills around the

Dean at his website

_.deanbrettschneider.cam

CIABATTA
Ciabatta is nothing new in terms of artisan breads but its one that's often made poorly. A true Ciabatta should be full of flavour with a slightly acidic taste combined with the natural flavours of olive oil. The crust should be crusty and the internal texture should be open with irregular holes and the crumbs should be firm and strong but yet still soft. For this article, I am using BakeMark's Pane Luciane Mix to achieve a perfect Ciabatta. The secret in creating a good Ciabatta is ensuring the dough is well developed with a good protein network and also the correct amount of water is well absorbed into the dough. Proper handling of the dough after bulk fermentation is

METHOD 1. Place all dry ingredients and 1st addition of water into a spiral mixer and mix on slow speed for 2 minutes and then 4 minutes on fast. 2. Add the 2nd addition of water slowly to the dough whilst mixing on fast speed until the water is well incorporated and the dough has fully developed. This may take a further 2-3 minutes depending on your mixer type. 3. The dough will be very soft as it contains a lot of water, which is required for the open texture and soft crumb. 4. Final Dough Temperature should be between 78-82 F.
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5. Place it into a lightly oiled container and cover with plastic. 6. Rest for 90-120 minutes or until it has truly doubled in size but still has strength to it. 7. Turn the dough out onto a well floured surface and cut into the size required. 8. Take each dough piece, roll it into flour and gently stretch a little and place on a baking tray or setter. 9. Dry Proof in a rack for 20 - 30 minutes. The dough pieces should be approximately 90% proofed. 10. Place into a preheated oven set at 446 F with a small amount of steam.
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critical to the final appearance of the Ciabatta. Be very gentle when tipping, cutting and transferring the dough. Over handling will result in the dough losing the valuable gas that you have taken time to create during the bulk fermentation stage. Be gentle

11. Turn down the oven to 410 F and open the oven vent after 10 minutes of baking to release the steam and develop a crust.
D

Steps for Success

1.

The Ciabatta dough after resting for 2 hours. It should be full of gas and also have a lot of strength in terms of stability. Make sure the dough has been fully developed during the mixing stage.

2.

Throwing flour on the table to ensure an even coating of the Ciabatta surface and to prevent the dough from sticking to the bench. Make sure the table is well covered.

3.

Tipping the fermented dough onto the wellfloured bench.

4.

Very, very gently lift the fermented dough out to create an even rectangle. Take extreme care to ensure the gas is not knocked out of the dough at this stage, which would causes the baked Ciabatta to be flat and lacking open texture.

5.

Lightly dust the surface with flour for easy cutting and handling. Notice the dough is still full of gas.

6.

Using a large scraper gently cut the dough into the required shapes. Take care to be gentle to

Artisan Baker

7.

The size and shapes are up to you and remember you can cut small Ciabatta, long sticks, traditional loaf shapes, triangles etc. The size and shape is up to your imagination.

8.

Once you have cut the Ciabatta, carefully rolling the bottom in flour to create an even, rustic coating of flour. Don't sprinkle or sieve flour on the dough once on the tray.

9.

Carefully lay the Ciabatta dough on the baking tray or setter loader (if you are transferring the dough directly onto the oven sole).

10.

Notice the floured surface of the Ciabatta dough. It takes on the look of the flour being aged with time. This gives it's a distinctive floured look once baked.

11.

If using an oven setter loader, take care to evenly place the Ciabatta on the setter. Slightly stretch

12.

Using a plastic scraper, cut holes or slits into the dough before final proof. Make sure you

13.

After its final cool dry proof, place the Ciabatta directly on the oven sole and apply a little steam and bake. You can also place the trays directly into the oven. Make sure your oven is the proper temperature.

14.

A range of freshly baked Ciabatta shapes. For a lighter and softer crust just adjust the baking time and temperature.

15.

A Perfect Ciabatta, open in texture, firm but soft crumb with a crusty floured outer shell. Notice the

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