This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?
A M E R I C A
Volume 2 Issue 3 2008
Leslie Mackie – Macrina Bakery Pastry Cup Qualifier Three Color Cigarettes
PA S T R Y N A . C O M
Letter From The Editor
1. Lock in client loyalty. Remember, you aren’t the only one facing economic hard times. What can you do to serve your best clients? Call and ask! 2. Make time for Face Time. It’s easy to slip into the habit of staying in the kitchen and doing business by phone and email. Visit the front of the house and visit with guests. Listen for opportunities where you can offer a solution for their problems. 3. See a Need and Fill It. When global economies are hurting, sometimes luxuries are the first to go. However, if there’s a need, there’s usually money to pay for a solution. Can you create products or add-on items that fill a need? 4. Create package options. In hearty economic times, there’s more to go around. When companies face downturns, slashing expenses is one of the first things companies do. To stand out from others, create package deals that offer lots of value-add for the dollar. This way you will stand out as a good deal. 5. Do more for less. We aren’t talking about giving away the farm. We are talking about doing just slightly more for the same amount. If you would normally tack on fees for an item, throw it in for free. Gifting ignites the law of reciprocity and loyalty follows. 6. Implement systems and marketing campaigns. Businesses that take a proactive approach will feel less blindsided. Create your plan now and implement it. And whatever you do, don’t cut back on sales and marketing initiatives!
The financial news is grim, but there are opportunities for those in foodservice that keep their eye on the prize and are able to adapt and reposition there service/business/skills. Let’s face it, pralines, macarons, chocolate pots de créme, lavish wedding cakes and gluten free epis aren’t exactly stables for the man on the street. And with every passing day bringing more dismal news on the economic front, most people agree the remainder of 2008 will be a challenging year for foodservice, especially pastry and baking. The conventional wisdom holds that the affluent market is unaffected by the economic ups and downs that hurt the middle-income consumer.† But today the affluent consumer market is far more diverse and stratified than it historically ever has been and the best way to protect your sales and customer base is to be proactive. Consider the following strategies whether you’re a shop owner, restaurant employee, hotel chef or wholesale baker:
Being proactive today will pay dividends tomorrow.
Regards, Joseph Marcionette Editor-in-Chief Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
2 Pastry & Baking North America
N O R T H A M E R I C A
Asian Pastry Cup
Once again Team Singapore captured the Asian Pastry Cup and is headed to compete with the rest of the world in Lyon.
Off The Wire
The latest news, happenings, events and product updates for the well informed professional.
Join P&B NA on a tour of North
Chef in Focus
As chef/owner of Macrina Bakery, the place where Seattlites congregate for fresh baked goodness, Leslie Mackie is tasked daily with living up to her James Beard nominations, widely acclaimed cookbooks and her global reputation as a true artisan.
America and beyond as we 46 visit with and showcase talented professionals who share their favorite recipes.
The incomparable Ewald Notter provides step-by-step instruction and insight into his passion and craft.
World renowned pastry chef and chocolatier extraordinaire Norman Love presents step by step instruction for three color cigarettes.
The Dubys dazzle with their leading edge approach to innovative creations.
4 Pastry & Baking North America
N O R T H A M E R I C A
Synergy1 Group, Inc.
PUBLISHER Synergy1 Board of Directors EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Marcionette CREATIVE DIRECTOR Lisa Dinges SENIOR EDITOR Campbell Ross Walker ASIA PACIFIC EDITOR Rachel Lee NETWORK MANAGER Michael Ethier SENIOR WRITERS David Martell, Laura Geatty
CORPORATE OFFICES: North America PO Box 291162 Port Orange, Florida 32129-1162 Email: email@example.com
Asia Pacific 32 Maxwell Road #03-07 White House Building Singapore 069115 Fax: (65) 6323 1839 www.PastryNA.com
Pastry & Baking North America Volume 2, Issue 3. All rights reserved. © under Universal International and Pan American Copyright conventions. This publication is a creative work fully protected by all applicable copyright laws, as well as by misappropriation, trade secret, unfair competition and other applicable laws.
Off The Wire
News, events and happenings from around the region
TEAM USA DAZZLES CHICAGO
Top US pastry chefs demonstrate technical and culinary skills At invitation-only event in Chicago
Valrhona and the Coupe de Monde de la Pâtisserie, aka, the World Pastry Cup, introduced the members of TEAM USA at a private reception that took place Monday, May 19th at the Sofitel Chicago Water Tower. Over 100 guests made up of industry professionals, pastry chefs, chocolatiers and the media learned more about TEAM USA’s training process, tasted a variety of plated desserts and chocolate confections and watched the team put the finishing touches on two intricate showpieces made of sugar and chocolate. TEAM USA’s members are: Team Captain David Ramirez, Executive Pastry Chef at The Rosen Shingle Creek in Orlando, FL; Rémy Fünfrock, Executive Restaurant Pastry Chef at The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs, CO; Roy Pell, Executive Pastry Chef at The Phoenician, Scottsdale, AZ; and Team Alternate Jim Mullaney, Executive Chef at The Cloisters Hotel, Sea Island, GA. TEAM USA president is pastry consultant, En-Ming Hsu.
6 Pastry & Baking North America
Off The Wire
The team has been meeting for monthly training sessions at L’Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, MD since being selected in fall 2007. The reception was the first opportunity for the chefs to present to an audience of industry professionals examples of the showpiece techniques and types of desserts that they hope will impress the World Pastry Cup judges and capture the gold in 2009. Coached by En-Ming Hsu and with the skilled help of advisors Derek Poirier, Corporate Pastry Chef for Valrhona USA and pastry chef and instructor Sylvain Leroy, Captain Ramirez and his team, in a matter of hours, created two showpieces and prepared two desserts: Kalamansi and Coconut Verrine and Nola, Valrhona Caraïbe Chocolate Passion Fruit Cake, the winner of the award for ‘Best Chocolate Cake’ at the 2007 World Pastry Cup. Guests included chocolatiers Michael Recchiuti of San Francisco’s Recchiuti Confections and Dylan Bigelow of Seattle’s Fran’s Chocolates; Chicago pastry chefs Andrés Lara of NoMI restaurant at the Park Hyatt and Kate Milahus of Room 21, along with industry veterans such as Matt Nielsen of Nielsen-Massey Vanilla. Media covering the event included Chicago’s NBC 5 WMAQ-TV ‘News at 6’, Food Arts, Chef, PLATE magazine and food bloggers Pro Bono Baker, Blue Kitchen and Leite’s Culinaria.
‘The chefs have been working non-stop and Chicago was a great city to showcase their talents and the impressive pieces they have been working on,’ said TEAM USA Captain Hsu. The event was enthusiastically received by guests who gave the chefs encouragement and renewed enthusiasm for the upcoming months of grueling training leading up to the competition in Lyon in January 2009. Terry Boyd, Blue Kitchen blogger, wrote, ‘So what are Team USA’s prospects for winning this year? Well, if the Chocolate Passion Fruit Cake we sampled is any indication, I’d say they’re pretty delicious — er, good.’
8 Pastry & Baking North America
Off The Wire
Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2008 Ranks 4th in The World
US bakers foster goodwill, promote baking education and showcase baking ability.
Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2008 competed against the best bakers in the world during the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie. Solveig Tofte, head baker at Turtle Bread Company in Minneapolis, MN represented the US in the Baguette and Specialty Bread Category; Dara Reimers, an aspiring bakery owner from Auburn, ME in the Artistic Design Category; and Peter Yuen, owner of La Patisserie P in Chicago, IL in the Viennoiserie Category. Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2008 placed fourth in the competition. Yuen also ranked individually, placing in the top four within the Viennoiserie category. The Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie is an international artisan bread baking competition held every three years in Paris, France. Also known as the World Cup or Olympics of Baking, the Coupe du Monde takes place at Europain — the world bakery, patisserie and catering exhibition in Paris. Each team consists of three members representing the best artisan bakers from the 12 countries who qualified to compete. Teams are given eight hours to produce a specific number of baked goods for each of the three categories: Baguette and
Specialty Breads, Viennoiserie, and Artistic Design. The competition takes place over the course of three days, with four teams competing each day. A committee of judges then ranks each team based on overall performance. The purpose of the competition is to gather artisan bakers from around the world to celebrate their profession, share knowledge of artisan baking techniques, and reinstate the value and restore the image of the artisan baking professional. For more information on Bread Bakers Guild Team USA visit www.bbga.org. The Bread Bakers Guild of America is a non-profit alliance of professional bakers, farmers, millers, suppliers, educators, students, home bakers, technical experts, and bakery owners and managers. It was formed in 1993 to shape the skills and knowledge of the artisan baking community through education. For more information, contact The Guild office at 412.434.0208 or firstname.lastname@example.org.
Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie 2008 Results
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th 7th 8th 9th 10th 11th 12th
10 Pastry & Baking North America
FRANCE TAIWAN ITALY USA THE NETHERLANDS JAPAN POLAND SPAIN SWEDEN ARGENTINA TURKEY MEXICO
607. 92 POINTS 579. 49 POINTS 578. 77 POINTS 578. 31 POINTS 551. 89 POINTS 532. 83 POINTS 513. 84 POINTS 511. 31 POINTS 488. 46 POINTS 487. 53 POINTS 472. 02 POINTS 465. 47 POINTS
WOW! Factor Desserts Adds to Individuals Lineup
Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA — WOW! Factor Desserts — a leading producer of high quality frozen desserts ñintroduced 3 new products today. The new products are individual serving desserts targeted to the foodservice industry. “These new products compliment our robust line of individual serving products,” said Bryan Yaakov, President of WOW! Factor Desserts. “These products make it easy for any foodservice operator to serve high quality, unique desserts without needing additional kitchen staff to handle the preparation, this allows the operator to maintain profitable cost structures and add to their bottom line.” Among the fantastic new individual desserts introduced by WOW! Factor Desserts are: the Chocolate Port Pedestal, Chocolate Brûlée Tulip and the Vanilla Berry Mousse. Full details on the new product line can be found on the WOW! Factor Desserts web site at www.wowfactordesserts.com. WOW! Factor Desserts are available throughout North America through leading distributors, for more information call 1-800-604-CAKE. Factor Desserts is a leading supplier of frozen dessert products. Our goal is to provide our clients with the highest quality products that allow them to increase their business profitability through increased sales and return visits!
Best chocolate book in the world!
On April 13th, 2008, Gourmand World Cookbook Awards gave prizes for the best new gastronomic publications from 90 countries. The book “Ramon Morató Chocolate”, written by renowned pastry chef, Ramon Morató, and published by Grupo Vilbo, had the great honor of receiving the award for Best Chocolate Book in the World 2007. With it’s in-depth treatment of the technical and practical issues associated with chocolate, this book has become a must-have for chocolatiers and pastry chefs alike. It has over 600 pages containing 230 recipes and an abundance of step-by-step photos and techniques. Chef Ramon’s book is presented in a bilingual, Spanish-English edition and is available around the world. This year Chef Ramon will travel with the Aula Chocovic team and the Export Department of Chocovic to China (Shanghai and Hangzhou) and the United States (Los Angeles, San Francisco and Las Vegas) to lead seminars on the chocolatier art. Chef Ramon humbly says this award is not just for the author, but for the entire team that helped make this project possible: the graphic design of Xavi Vila, the photos of Francesc Guillamet, the team at Aula Chocovic and the support of the publisher Grupo Vilbo.
Off The Wire
International Confectionary Art Competition A Re al Success!
The very first edition of the Mondial des Arts Sucrés was really held during Europain 2008 trade fair in Paris. During the three days of this confectionary art marathon, whose rules and guidelines were devised by DGF chefs, mixed teams from all over the world competed by putting forward dessert tasting, chocolate bouchÈes, entremets, desserts, petit fours and impressive masterpieces made of sugar, chocolate and pastillage. At the end of this relentless battle, the French team composed of Jérôme De Oliveira and Alice Bardais won the first prize. Both of these young chefs work at the prestigious
Paris Plaza Athénée Hotel under the supervision of Christophe Michalak. Second prize went to the mixed pair from Japan composed of Mr Shigeru Hosaka and Mrs Miya Fujimoto, both from the Grand Hyatt in Tokyo. Coming in Third was the team from Russia who took advantage of a technical failure by the friendly Canadian team. With the strict oversight of Head Judge Pascal Niau (MOF Pastry) along with the assistance of judges Angelo Musa (MOF Pastry and World Pastry Champion 2003) and Philippe Rigollot (MOF Pastry and World Pastry Champion 2005) the competition sought out the best and brightest and served as a platform to put forth a new, mixed team format. Look forward to the second installation of Mondial Des Arts Sucres at Europain 2010.
12 Pastry & Baking North America
Extension of Dobla’s Chefs Collection
At the end of last year, Dobla introduced the new line known as the Chef’s Collection developed in collaboration with some of the world’s top pastry chefs. With that introduction, Dobla promised to surprise dessert professionals frequently with new shapes and concepts. That’s why Dobla is proud to present to you the following products.
These products will make it possible for you to present your clients with the most exclusive creations in a cost effective manner that will enhance the bottom line and the dining experience of your guests. Like all Dobla decorations, these new additions to the Chef’s Collection are made with only the very finest Belgium chocolate.
Off The Wire
pastryscoop.com Announces The Winners Of The 2008 Golden Scoop Awards!
New York, NY. June 24, 2008 — PastryScoop.com is proud to announce the winners of the 2008 GOLDEN SCOOP AWARDS, which celebrate excellence, innovation, and creativity in the pastry arts. The awards were presented by Judiaann Woo, editorin-chief of PastryScoop.com, along with Dominique Ansel, executive pastry chef of Daniel (New York City) and 2007 Best Dessert Menu winner, before an audience of pastry chefs, media, and industry professionals at The French Culinary Institute in New York City on June 23rd.
2008 GOLDEN SCOOP AWARD WINNERS:
Best Dessert Menu
DESSERT MENU Raphael Haasz, Executive Pastry Chef Café Boulud 20 East 76th Street New York, NY 10021 (212) 772-2600 www.danielnyc.com/cafeboulud
Grand Marnier Most Innovative Dessert
PASSION FRUIT “TART”, SESAME, ARGAN OIL, MERINGUE Alex Stupak, Pastry Chef fwd~50 50 Clinton Steet New York, NY 10002 (212) 477-2900 www.wd-50.com
Best Dessert Revival
The awards ceremony began with a panel discussion — PASTRY CHEFS AS AUTHORS: The Rise in Popularity of the Dessert Cookbook — hosted by Michael Batterberry, founding editor and publisher of Food Arts, with pastry chefs Karen DeMasco (formerly of Craft and Craftbar), Pichet Ong (P*ONG), Jacques Torres (Jacques Torres Chocolate), and Kate Zuckerman (Chanterelle). As the winners were announced, they were awarded engraved sterling silver champagne buckets, gifts from the awards sponsors, and a $1,000 cash prize. The chefs and their winning desserts will also be featured on PastryScoop.com and in Food Arts magazine. The 2008 Golden Scoop Awards were open to all pastry and baking professionals. A team of pastry chefs and food industry professionals reviewed over one hundred submissions to select finalists in each of the five award categories. The top scoring contenders in each category were invited to New York to present their creations to the judging panel which consisted of Dominique Ansel, executive pastry chef, Daniel; Tina Casaceli, director of pastry and bread arts, The French Culinary Institute; Gabriella Gershenson, Eat Out editor, Time Out New York; and Gary Tucker, senior editor, Food Arts. RHUBARB CRUMBLE Catrine Oscarson, Pastry Chef Mas (farmhouse) 39 Downing Street New York, NY 10014 (212) 255-1790 www.masfarmhouse.com
PRETZEL-COVERED SEA SALTED CARAMEL Rachel Zoe Insler, Chocolatier/Owner Bespoke Chocolates New York, NY email@example.com www.bespokechocolates.com
Best Bakery Recipe
PANE SETTE GRANI Cristóbal Julio Guarchaj, Head Baker Grandaisy Bakery 73 Sullivan Street New York, NY 10012 (212) 334-9435 www.grandaisybakery.com
14 Pastry & Baking North America
January 25th - 26th 2009 Eurexpo Lyon, France
In 2009, the 11th Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie will bring together international teams of brilliantly talented pastry chefs for a thrilling competition of culinary artistry and skill. Their sweet masterpieces, created live before a cheering audience, will be judged on taste, presentation and technique. At the conclusion of the two day competition, the world’s best pastry chefs - the winners of the 11th Coupe du Monde - will be revealed!
En-Ming Hsu Coach Award-winning Pastry Chef Consultant Las Vegas, NV
David Ramirez Team Captain Executive Pastry Chef at The Rosen Shingle Creek Orlando, FL
Rémy Fünfrock Team Member Executive Restaurant Pastry Chef at The Broadmoor Colorado Springs, CO
Roy Pell Team Member Executive Pastry Chef at The Phoenician Scottsdale, AZ
Jim Mullaney Team Alternate Executive Pastry Chef at The Cloisters Hotel Sea Island, GA
The members of Team USA were chosen after an extensive application process culminating in final in-depth interviews with each finalist during the selection weekend sponsored by Valrhona at L’Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, MD. The team represents the most talented pastry chefs working in the US today. Each chef brings over 20 years of professional experience and all have excelled in pastry competitions encompassing desserts, chocolate, sugar work, ice-carving, pastry, and bread.
Contact Information: Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie in USA contact: En-Ming Hsu: 312 451 3715 - firstname.lastname@example.org Valrhona press contact: Deborah Kwan - DKPR: 415 586 4885 - email@example.com
Founding Official Sponsor
2005 Bronze • 2001 WORLD PASTRY CUP CHAMPIONS • 1999 Bronze • 1997 Silver • 1995 Bronze
French Butter Pear Tart with Chestnut Mont Blanc
Serves 6 Zinfandel Poached French Butter Pears 1 bottle of Zinfandel, 750 ml 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped 2-3 strips grapefruit peel, no pith 1/2 cup sugar 6 French Butter pears, peeled, cored, and cut in half 1. In large saucepot, combine wine with all ingredients except pears. 2. Bring to a simmer, and when sugar has dissolved, lower heat. 3. Add pears, (cored side up) and gently poach about 30 minutes or until tender. Time needed to finish poaching will depend on ripeness of pears. 4. Remove pears from liquid. Reduce poaching liquid by one-half. Cool. 5. Pour cooled poaching liquid over pears and refrigerate overnight for maximum color and flavor. 6. Before baking, cut pears into thin slices. Reserve. Chestnut Crust 1/4 cup almonds, toasted, finely ground 4 oz butter, unsalted and room temperature 1/2 cup confectionery sugar 1 egg 3/4 cup flour 1/2 cup chestnut flour 1/2 tsp salt 1. Toast almonds in a 300ºF oven until lightly brown. Cool, process until finely ground. 2. In mixer fitted with paddle, cream butter with the confectionery sugar. 3. Add nuts, then egg. 4. Combine both flours with salt and add to above. Do not overmix. 5. Chill at least one hour. 6. Roll and fit into six 43/4” x 3/4” fluted tart molds with removable bottom. Chill. Mont Blanc 1 pound fresh chestnuts 2 cups milk 1/3 cup sugar Pinch of salt 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped 2-3 strips lemon peel 1. Soak chestnuts in lukewarm water for 5 minutes to soften shells. 2. Make an X on flat side of each nut with a small sharp knife. 3. Drop in boiling water. Cook about 10 minutes. Drain; remove shell and brown inner skin. 4. Combine milk, sugar, salt, vanilla bean, and lemon peel in saucepot and heat to dissolve sugar. 5. Add peeled chestnuts and bring to simmer. Cook for 45 minutes or until chestnuts are soft and tender. 6. Remove vanilla bean pod and lemon strips. Cool slightly. 7. Pass half amount through potato ricer and chill ìvermicelli” chestnut puree. Reserve remaining half for chestnut paste. Chestnut Paste Reserved remaining half of chestnut puree 2 oz mascarpone 1 tsp lemon zest Place in food processor, all of the above and process until just incorporated. You can allow small pieces of chestnut to remain in the paste for crunch. Refrigerate if making ahead. Assembly 1. Preheat oven to 400ºF. 2. Place tart molds on a baking sheet. Prick dough with a fork. 3. Line with parchment paper and weight with rice or beans. Bake for 10 minutes. 4. Remove parchment paper and weights. Decrease heat to 350ºF and bake 5-7 more minutes. 5. Cool slightly. Spread bottom evenly with chestnut paste. 6. Arrange sliced pears over the chestnut paste. 7. Bake for 20 minutes. 8. Top with Chestnut Mont Blanc. 9. Serve with Créme Anglaise and/or reduction of poaching liquid to syrup stage.
Chef/Owner Sweet Solutions 16 Fuller Ave. Swampscott, MA www.mysweetsolutions.net
16 Pastry & Baking North America
French Butter Pear Tart with Chestnut Mont Blanc
Mango Olive Oil Sponge 225g almond paste 250g eggs 75g mango puree (imported) 3g baking powder 40g cake flour 3g vanilla essence 95g olive oil
1. Whip almond paste, sugar, & eggs till pale. 2. Add puree. Sift dry ingredients and fold in. 3. Add olive oil slowly. 4. Scale onto silpat and bake at 190°C for 1012 minutes. 5. Cool down and store in freezer until ready to use.
8g bloomed gelatin 80g Italian meringue
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Warm puree, yoghurt, and curry powder. Add bloomed gelatin. Gently fold in meringue. Pipe half into ring mold. Insert frozen gelled mango disk. Fill the rest of mold with the filling. Place another silpat on top to keep flat. Store in freezer until ready to use.
3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Pour boiled liquid slowly onto eggs & stir. Place bake on low heat and cook to 81ºC. Be sure to constantly stir to avoid burning. Strain immediately in bowl over ice bath. Stir with spatula and cool to 38ºC. Add soft butter & emulsify mix with hand blender. 9. Fill into small flexi domes and freeze. 10. Unmold and spray with yellow chocolate spray. 11. Place back in freezer until ready to use.
Italian Meringue 50g egg white 20g sugar 40g water 95g sugar
1. Whip egg white & 20g sugar softly. 2. At same time, cook other sugar/water to 121°C. 3. Pour slowly on side of meringue on low speed. 4. Whip until cool. 5. Use immediately.
Mango Papaya Pulp 150g fresh mango pieces 500g fresh papaya pieces 2 no fresh lime zest 2 no lime juice 40g grenadine syrup
1. Blend all of the ingredients in a robot coupe. 2. Add some mango juice to adjust consistency. 3. Lastly, fold in lime zest. 4. Make this item fresh everyday when needed.
Mango Ice Cream 1000g milk 600g cream 300g skim milk powder 300g sugar 16g stabilizer 120g powdered glucose 700g mango puree (imported) 65g lime juice Method
1. Bring milk and cream to a boil. 2. Mix stabilizer, sugars and milk powder together. 3. Gently whisk in and boil again. 4. Cool over ice bath for 3 hours. 5. Add mango and lime and let rest over night. 6. Freeze next day.
Mango Glaze 300g mango puree 100g mango juice 10g pectin 150g sugar 15g bloomed gelatin
1. Slowly boil purees. 2. Mix together sugar and pectin, & whisk in. 3. Whisk and use spatula to prevent burning. 4. Boil for 2 minutes, strain glaze, & add gelatin.
1. Unmold mango yoghurt cream. 2. Sprinkle desiccated coconut on 1 side of mango cream. (this prevents sticking to the tray). 3. Warm mango glaze to 50°C. 4. Glaze frozen mango cream disk 1 hour before service. 5. Swirl a small ladle of mango papaya pulp onto plate. 6. Cut olive oil sponge with round cutter. 7. Place glazed disk onto sponge. 8. Place velvet sprayed massion curd disk on top. 9. Make a quenelle of mango ice cream. 10. Put a small piece of chocolate tuile under ice cream. 11. Raspberry with bamboo skewer for garnish. 12. Final touch of gold.
Mango Geleé 275g mango puree 275g sugar 100g pectin 50g glucose 300g sugar 15g tartaric acid solution
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Slowly boil purees. Gently whisk in sugar and pectin. Whisk and use spatula to prevent burning. Cook to 108°C. Fill into flexi disk mold & freeze.
Mango Curry Yoghurt Meringue 220g mango puree 120g unsweetened yoghurt 1.5g curry powder
Massion Curd Recipe 125g passion fruit puree 250g mango puree 80g sugar 155g eggs 125g egg Yolks 105g soft unsalted butter 1/2 no lemon zest
1. Bring puree’s to a boil. 2. Gently whisk eggs, yolks, & sugar together.
Kevin M. Curry
Pastry Chef/Consultant The Curry Touch Shanghai www.currytouch.com Tel: +86 138 1105 5381 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
18 Pastry & Baking North America
Almond Joy Brownie
Fudge Brownie Base 1 cup sugar 4 1/2 oz butter 1/4 cup light corn syrup 1/4 cup water 3/4 cup all purpose flour 1/4 tsp salt 14 oz bittersweet chocolate, chopped 2 eggs 1 tbsp vanilla extract Bring sugar, water and corn syrup to a boil. Pour over chopped chocolate and whisk to combine and fully melt the chocolate. Whisk the flour and salt into the chocolate mixture. Finally, whisk in the eggs and vanilla. Pour into a greased sheet pan, spread evenly and bake at 350ºF for 10 minutes or until nearly set and crackly skin has formed. Chill to room temperature, then put into the freezer while making the macaroon filling. Macaroon Filling 1 cup egg whites 1 1/3 cup sugar 1 lbs unsweetened, finely shredded coconut I vanilla bean, scrapped or 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/2 tbsp, orange zest 2 oz sour cream Whisk together the whites and sugar. Heat over a bain marie until hot to the touch (approximately 120ºF.) Whip with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form and the meringue has cooled down. Fold in the rest of the ingredients. Spread the mixture over the top of the frozen brownie and bake at 350ºF until golden and set, around 20 minutes. Chill to room temperature and then refrigerate to firm it up. Chocolate Glaze 1 cup boiling water 8 oz chopped dark chocolate 2 tbsp butter 1 tbsp corn syrup Bring water to a boil. Pour the boiling water over the chocolate, butter and corn syrup, and then whisk to combine. Strain. Assembly When chilled and firm, cut the macaroon brownie into 2-inch squares. Line them on a screen over a sheet pan. Top each square with a candied almond and pour chocolate glaze over the brownie until it completely covers the sides and top in a smooth sheet. Allow glaze to set before removing the squares from the screen. The bottom edges can be decorated with toasted coconut or chopped candied almond.
*This dessert is great served with salted caramel sauce or créme anglaise.
Pastry Chef Bacar Restaurant 448 Brannan Street www.bacarsf.com
20 Pastry & Baking North America
Almond Joy Brownie
Pandan St. Honore with Star Anise Choux and Longan
Puff Pastry 230g cold butter, cut into small cubes 280g bread flour 6g salt 135g ice water 1. Combine flour and salt together in a food processor. 2. Add 60g butter, pulse briefly until the mixture forms large crumbs. 3. Add ice water, pulse until the dough forms into a ball. 4. Transfer to a lightly floured surface, knead into a smooth ball. 5. Cover and rest for 30 minutes. 6. Flatten the remaining butter into a square of 3/4” thick. 7. Roll out the dough in a cross shape that’s large enough for the butter. 8. Place the butter in the center, fold over the sections of dough and flatten with a rolling pin. 9. Roll, fold and turn the dough six times, chill for 30 minutes between each rolling, a total of 3 hours. 10. Roll out an 8” circle and place on a baking sheet, prick all over and chill for 30 minutes. Choux Paste 95g bread flour 3g salt 6g sugar 55g unsalted butter 60g water 60g milk 2 eggs 2 star anise 1 egg, for egg wash 5g milk, for egg wash 1. Sift the flour, salt and sugar together. 2. Heat the butter, water, milk and star anise over low heat until the butter melts, increase the heat and bring to a full boil. Discard star anise. 3. Add the flour mixture, remove from the heat and stir until the mixture forms a smooth paste. Allow to cool for 5 minutes. 4. Add 2 eggs, one at a time, beat until smooth. 5. Use a pastry bag and plain tip #6 to pipe a broad spiral onto the puff pastry base, brush with egg wash and bake at 400ºF for 25-30 minutes. 6. Pipe small choux buns on a separate baking sheet and bake at 425ºF for 10 minutes, then at 350ºF for 5-10 minutes. Créme Chibouste 270g milk 4 egg yolks 250g sugar 30g cornstarch 3 sheets gelatin 5g pandan extract 4 egg whites 90g water 1. Make a pastry cream with milk, egg yolks, 50g sugar and cornstarch. 2. Bloom the gelatin, then whisk into the pastry cream. Add the extract and let it cool. 3. Use the remaining sugar, water and egg whites to make an Italian meringue. 4. Fold the meringue into the pastry cream. Let it set for 10 minutes. 5. Use 1/4 of the cream in a pastry bag and plain tip #3 to fill each choux bun. 6. With the remaining cream, use a pastry bag and Saint Honore tip to pipe over a puff pastry base. Caramel & Spun Sugar 400g sugar 120g water 14g glucose 1. Cook sugar, water and glucose to 320ºF. 2. Remove from the heat and shock in an ice-bath for 30 seconds to halt the cooking process, then remove. 3. Dip the filled choux buns in the caramel. Place on a baking sheet to harden. 4. Gripping two forks back-to-back in one hand, dip into the remaining caramel and flick back and forth over the rolling pin. 5. Gently gather up the strands and fold them into a “spun sugar” ball. Assembly 1. Dip the base of each choux bun into the caramel and place on the pastry border. 2. Top the créme chibouste with longan. 3. Decorate your Saint Honore with the spun sugar and star anise.
Assistant Pastry Chef Cortez 550 Geary St
22 Pastry & Baking North America
Pandan St. Honore with Star Anise Choux and Longan
Spicy Triple Gingerbread
Serves 4 2 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 2 tsp cinnamon 3/4 tsp cloves 1/2 tsp fresh nutmeg 1/2 tsp ground allspice 1/2 tsp cardamom 1/2 tsp ground ginger 1/2 tsp baking soda 1/4 tsp baking powder 1/2 tsp salt 8 oz unsalted butter, room temperature 1/2 cup dark brown sugar, packed 1/2 cup sugar 2 extra large eggs, room temperature 1 cup molasses 3 tbsp peeled, fresh grated ginger 2 tbsp minced, crystallized ginger 1/2 cup whole milk, room temperature 1. Sift all dry ingredients except salt. 2. Cream butter alone for one minute until light colored. Add sugar, dark brown sugar and salt. Cream until light and fluffy. 3. Add eggs, one at a time and beat for 20 seconds after each egg. Scrape the bowl while beating the mixture. 4. Mix in molasses, continue to scrape the bowl. Do not be concerned if the mixture looks curdled, it will smooth out when the flour is added. 5. Add sifted dry ingredients, crystallized ginger and fresh ginger; mix until combined. Add milk. When the milk is almost combined, switch to a hand spatula. Mix well, making sure no streaks are present. 6. Pour into a well greased baking pan. Bake in a 350ºF oven until the center springs back when press with the back of a fork or a toothpick comes out clean.
Pastry Chef One Market Restaurant 1 Market Street San Francisco, CA www.onemarket.com
24 Pastry & Baking North America
Spicy Triple Gingerbread
Yield: 27 cakes Biscuit Joconde 250g almond flour 250g icing sugar 300g egg 215g egg white 50g sugar 50g butter 70g flour 1. Whip the almond flour, icing sugar and egg. 2. Whip the egg white with the sugar. 3. Mix 1 and 2. 4. Add the melted butter and the shifted flour. 5. Pour onto the baking paper. Bake at 280°C for 4-5 minutes. 6. After cooling down, cut into 9 x 6cm oval shape. Tea Sutroizel 150g butter 140g sugar 2g vanilla sugar 3g salt 150g almond flour 150g flour 5g Earl Grey tea powder 1. Mix the softened butter, sugar, vanilla sugar and salt. 2. Add the shifted almond flour, flour and tea powder. 3. Keep in the refregerator. 4. Roll out at 2-3mm. Cut into 9 x 6 oval shape. 5. Bake at 170°C for about 10 minutes. Mascarpone Cream 20g sugar 180g cream 40% 500g mascarpone cheese 300g orange puree 1. Whip the cream with the sugar. 2. Add mascarpone cheese and orange puree. 3. Pipe the cream on the plastic sheet as the shape of 9 x 6cm ovale with 18mm diametre piping tip. Freeze. Exotique Jelly 1320g Delice Exotique puree 35g silver gelatine sheet 35g sugar 1. Heat the puree with sugar. 2. Add the bloomed gelatine. Nappage Exotique 350g Absolu Cristal glaze 50g syrup (water 25g : sugar 25g) 25g passion fruits puree 25g Delice Exotique puree 65g glucose 1. Mix all the ingredients.è 2. Heat until 50ºC.è 3. Mix with the burmix. Assembly 1. Pour the Extoique Jelly into the Egg shape Flexipan mold (10 x 7.5cm). 2. Add the frozen mascarpone cream and biscuit joconde. Freeze. 3. Glaze the nappage exotique.è 4. Put on the sutroizel and finish with lemongrass, passion fruits seeds, orange etc.
Owner/Chef Patisserie La Splendeur 2-1-20 Minamikugahara Ohtaku Tokyo Tel : +81 3-3752-5119
Courtesy All Japan Confectionery Association From PCG Magazine
26 Pastry & Baking North America
Champions Once Again
Team Singapore wins 2008 Asian Pastry Cup represented by Chef Hoi Kuok I, Chef Ng Chee Leong and Jury Member Chef Pang Kok Keong.
28 Pastry & Baking North America
resident-Founder of the World Pastry Cup, Mr Gabriel Paillasson, crowned the Team Singapore the winner of the Asian Pastry Cup 2008 on 24 April at the end of an exciting, tense and emotional two-day competition. The teams from Taiwan and China were awarded the second and third prizes respectively as hundreds of supporters cheered them on. “Due to the fantastic work by the participants, I will be selecting four top teams instead of three,” Mr Paillasson announced unexpectedly at the awards ceremony as the audience in the crowded arena clapped enthusiastically. The initial intention was to give only the top three teams the chance to compete at the World Pastry Cup in Lyon, France next year. The talented team from Malaysia was awarded the specially added fourth prize. A warm sense of camaraderie and pride swept across the arena as the audience, filled with ardent supporters of the pastry industry, whooped for joy in response to Mr Paillason’s decision. The Singapore team, represented by Chef Hoi Kuok I and Chef Ng Chee Leong, captivated the 10-member professional jury with their plated dessert, an exquisite milk chocolate sphere filled with homemade hazelnut praline and raspberry granita, their “Bliss Chocolate Entremet” chocolate cake, which also won the “Best Chocolate Cake” special prize, and their “Encounter” – themed sugar and chocolate showpieces. All four creations earned extensive praises and high scores for their taste, texture, presentation and originality. It is the second time Singapore has won top honors at the Asian Pastry Cup. “It is a triumph for Singapore to come in first amidst such strong competitors. The team did very well,” said jury member Chef Pang Kok Keong.
Gold APC Trophy Silver APC Trophy Bronze APC Trophy
Singapore Taiwan China
Best Chocolate Showpiece
Taiwan Taiwan Singapore Malaysia Mauritius Singapore Sri Lanka
Best Chocolate Showpiece Best Chocolate Cake Best Plated Dessert Best Team Spirits Media Prize Singapore Pastry Alliance Prize
“I am very happy and honored that we have won. It was a truly exciting competition, every team was excellent,” said Chef Hoi, team captain of the Singapore team. “I have only three years of experience in pastry. To many experienced pastry chefs, I am only a beginner. So I am proud to have the golden opportunity to represent Singapore in World Pastry Cup 2009!” This second edition of the biennial competition, held in conjunction with the biennial Food&Hotel Asia 2008, attracted the participation of 10 Asian teams (up from seven at the inaugural Asian Pastry Cup 2006). This year, teams from China, India, Indonesia, Malaysia, Mauritius, The Philippines, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Taiwan and Vietnam competed for the top spots. “This year at the second Asian Pastry Cup, we have the participation of 10 Asian nations and saw so many talented pastry chefs in action. I am heartened that the event is growing in importance. I would like to thank the organizers and generous sponsors who have made the APC a success,” said Mr Paillasson. A new visual identity for the APC was launched this year. The egg marks the birth of the new and also represents the one ingredient that remains a common theme across many pastry cultures. The gold swirls are an Asian design element that alludes to the exchange and blending of new ideas. The top four Asian teams will now prepare to compete with teams from all over the world at the prestigious World Pastry Cup 2009 in Lyon, France on 25 and 26 January 2009 where they will meet and vie against teams from France, Japan, Korea, Spain, Italy, and Belgium for the coveted award. Former Pastry World Champions include three Michelin star pastry chef, Christophe Michalak (2005); Pascal Molines (1999); and acclaimed Belgian chocolatier Pierre Marcolini (1995).
30 Pastry & Baking North America
Mr Philippe Rigollot, the pastry chef at Anne-Sophie Pic’s three Michelin-starred Maison Pic and part of the Pastry World Champion team in 2005, made a distinguished appearance as a special guest at APC 2008 courtesy of the World Gourmet Summit 2008. “I am delighted to be here, it reminds me of my wonderful experience at WPC a few years back. I wish for the selected countries an unforgettable experience in Lyon,” he said. Founded by Valrhona and Ravifruit in collaboration with Singapore Exhibition Services and the Singapore Pastry Alliance, the Asian Pastry Cup was conceptualised with the aim to promote fine pastry art in Asia through a competitive platform. An Asian partner to the World Pastry Cup held in Lyon, France biennially, it is the official competition at which three Asian countries are pre-selected to compete at the international event. The APC, first held in 2006, is now in its second year running. The participating teams prepared and presented their best pastry creations live in front of an audience and the esteemed judging panel, helmed by Mr Gabriel Paillasson, President-Founder of World Pastry Cup.
Indonesian Sugar Piece
China India Indonesia
32 Pastry & Baking North America
Team Singapore’s “Bliss Chocolate”
China India Mauritius
34 Pastry & Baking North America
Team Malaysia’s Winning Plated Dessert
Sugar Recipe 1000g Sugar 400g Water 200g Glucose 10 drops of tartaric acid (boil to 160ºC) Equipment Bulb Pump (wood or metal tube) Mat Gloves Hair Dryer Heat Source Pot Spatula Marble
Publisher’s Note: Ewald Notter is considered a leading expert in modern day confectionery arts and is also well know as a competitor and instructor. Today, Chef Ewald heads the Notter School of Pastry Arts in Orlando, Florida. (www.notterschool.com)
1. Using your hands, form the pliable sugar into a sphere by folding it several times in order to get an even temperature throughout. If you blow sugar with an uneven temperature, the sugar will always extract more on the warmer side. The only way to correct this is by using your hand to cool down the warmer parts. 2. Carefully push a short hole into the sphere. Try not to cool down the sphere by handling it too much. Cut off any excess sugar toward the base.
36 Pastry & Baking North America
3. Slide the tubing attachment a short distance into the ball of sugar. Press the sugar onto the tube securely, so the air does not escape from the sides. 4. Pump air into the sphere and expand the sugar evenly. Elongate the sphere as you blow air into the sugar. (If the sugar is very warm you should not blow too much air in at one time. The sugar will collapse from not being able to hold its shape). Carefully form the sugar into a “drop shape”. Form the front of the fish’s nose as you elongate the body of the fish. 5. Flatten the piece of blown sugar on your leg so the bottom side does not get too cold. This will allow for a longer working time before the sugar get cold and brittle. 6. Once you achieve the desired shape, cool the sugar in front of a hair dryer to hold it’s shape.
7. Once the body of the fish holds its shape, warm the end piece, the tail, with a burner or blow torch very carefully. 8. With some caution, peel the end piece of the sugar from the blowing tube. Release the sugar from the blowing tube using a pair of scissors. This end piece will be used to form the tail of the fish. If there are any discolorations left behind in the sugar from the blowing tube, remove them using the scissors. 9. If you don’t have enough sugar to form the tail add an additional piece of sugar. Build the fish tail by kneading a piece of sugar back into the existing tail. 10. Re-warm and flatten the tail piece with your hands. Cut off the end piece with a pair of scissors to get a clean finish.
WOR LD PAST RY TEAM CHA MPIO NSH IP
Dobla is official sponsor of the World Pa stry Championship 20 Team 08.
31 August - 1 Sep tember 2008, Nashville, USA
5133 - www.fbd.be
Recipe made by Pastry Chef of Swissôtel ‘The Stamford and Raffles’, Singapore. Ramon used the Dobla Diablo square to decorate.
Associate member of:
DOBLA BV, The Netherlands
Please check our site to find your local distributor: www.dobla.com
11. Score the fish tail with a pair of scissors to get the fin-like appearance of a real fin. 12. The eyes of the fish can be painted or molded. To mold the eyes, use a round piece of red sugar and flatten it out on a table. Take a small rounded piece of black sugar and press it into the center of the red piece of sugar. This technique will create depth and give a life-like hue to the fish’s face. To attach the eye, warm the back side of the sugar and firmly fasten the eye to the fish. 13. Use air brush quality food dye to color the fish’s body. Dip the brush end into the food color and paint the gills on the side of the fish. 14. Carefully re-warm the casted support with a blow torch. Slightly melt the support to attach the fish securely. If the support is very cold use a hair dryer to re-warm it carefully. Strong temperature differences may cause the support to crack and break. 15. Pull the fins like a small piece of ribbon and cut it into the desired shape while the sugar is still warm and pliable. You will need six fins in various sizes, two for the side of the fish, three for the top fins and one for the base fin. 16. It is best if you attach the fins to the fish’s body while the fins are slightly warm. This way you may change or correct the shape of the fins. 17. Once the fish is complete, color the fish body using an air brush with yellow, red and blue colors. Start off by spraying the body of the fish with yellow. Follow with the red air brush color and finish with blue on the tops of the fins. Feel free to spray the fish with any color you desire. Be careful not to spray too much color because the liquid food color will bead on the surface and bleed into the other colors.
Whole Wheat Bread
hole grains: Surely by now you know that experts say we should eat more of them. It seems that everywhere you look these days,
Publisher’s Note: Ciril Hitz is the Department Chair for the International Baking and Pastry Institute at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island. He has been recognized both nationally and internationally with numerous awards and accomplishments. Ciril recently published two DVD series: Bread Art and Better Bread. His upcoming book, Baking Artisan Bread, is due for released in October 2008. More information on Ciril and his work can be found on his web site: www.breadhitz.com.
from television to the printed page to the all-encompassing Internet, our brains are becoming ingrained (pardon the pun) with whole grains... and rightfully so! The facts are clear and indisputable: they contain more fiber, vitamins, and minerals than their refined counterparts. They are simply better for your body, period. There are simple changes you can make to increase the amount of whole grains in your diet, one of the easiest being to use more whole wheat flour when baking. That being said, I am amazed that the mention of whole wheat bread still conjures up in the minds of many an image of a dense, heavy, bitter loaf of bread. With the following formula, I hope to change the mind of anyone that still holds such a perception. Part of my personal baking philosophy includes that every formula should serve more than one purpose or product. In fact, I always challenge my students at Johnson & Wales University to use half dough in the formula to make the required product, and then use simple changes to transform the remaining half into something completely new and different. It is amazing to see what they come up with! So, in keeping with this approach, I am including some alternate variations above and beyond a wholesome and tasty loaf of bread. Give it a try and see if I can make you a believer in this very tasty and easy-to-make Whole Wheat Bread.
40 Pastry & Baking North America
Serve perfection. Artisan pastries deserve artisan coffee.
Named 2008 Macro Roaster of the Year
by Roast Magazine
Home of Barista Champions
Trust your coffee program to the proven experts: 1220 West Nickerson Street, Seattle, WA 98119 866-ZOKA-NOW (866-965-2669) I
Ingredients Bread flour Water (70ºC recommended) Instant yeast Metric 750g 450g 6g Pounds 1# 10.4 oz 15.8 oz .21 oz % 100 60 .8 9. Drop oven temp to 380ºF and bake an additional 20-30 minutes. 1. Mix all ingredients on 1st speed for 3 minutes until a smooth consistency. 2. Place the biga in an oiled container large enough for it to triple its size. Note: After mixing, the biga will seem dry and feel tight and somewhat rubbery. This is normal; DO NOT add any additional water. Allow the biga to stay out at room temperature for 2 hours before using. (If you wish to hold the biga to use for the next day, degass the biga with your hands and refrigerate overnight.) 10. Remove from pan and cool completely on cooling rack. 7. Place in a protected environment (like a proof box) and allow dough to proof an additional 90 minutes. 8. Bake at 420ºF in a convection oven for 20 minutes with 15 seconds of steam.
Variation: Whole Wheat Rolls • Divide dough into 90 gram units. • Work round and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan, cover, and let proof for 45-60 minutes. • Bake at 450-480ºF in a deck oven for 12-15 minutes until a nice golden brown crust develops.
Final Weight 6700g 14# 12.3 oz
Ingredients Whole wheat flour Water (80ºC recommended) Honey Instant yeast Salt Biga Sunflower seeds*, roasted Pumpkin Seeds*, roasted Sesame seeds*, roasted * Optional ingredients 1. In a 20 quart mixer, mix all ingredients except seeds on 1st speed for 4 minutes. 2. Increase speed to 2nd speed and mix an additional 1 to 2 minutes. 3. Add seeds (optional) on 1st speed until completely incorporated into the dough. 4. Place dough into an oiled proofing container, cover with lid and let rest for 45 minutes. 5. Give the dough one stretch and fold, cover, and let rest an additional 45 minutes. 6. Scale dough into 850g increments, shape into loaves, and place immediately into oiled loaf pans or Panibois® baking forms. Metric 2750g 1935g 260g 8g 69g 1206g 200g 200g 200g Pounds 6# 4# 4.2 oz 9.1oz .28 oz 2.4 oz 2#10.5 oz 7 oz 7 oz 7 oz % 100 70 9.4 .29 2.5 43 7.2 7.2 7.2
Variation: Whole Wheat Pizzas • When making pizzas, it is best not to use seeds in the dough. • Divide the dough into pieces between 220-350 grams, depending on the size of the pizza desired. • Shape them round and place on an oiled sheet pan. Cover with plastic and chill (dough can be kept up to 24 hours in refrigerator.) • Roll out with a rolling pin and top with desired toppings. Bake pizzas at 450-480ºF for about 7-10 minutes each.
Variation: Savory Filled Rounds • When making savory filled rounds, it is best not to use seeds in the dough. • Divide the dough into 90g units, work round, place on a parchment-lined sheet pan. • Cover and allow to proof until the dough doubles in size (around 60 minutes). • Brush the round with a savory blend of herbed olive oil (your choice of salt, pepper, herbs, and spices) and press an opening into the center with your fingers. • Fill with the desired filling, such as soft herb cheese and roasted vegetables or pesto sauce and sautéed chicken bits. • Bake for 15-20 minutes at 450-480ºF in a deck oven until desired color is achieved.
42 Pastry & Baking North America
6. 4. 5.
1. Stretch and fold adds strength and balances out the dough temperature during the fermentation process. 2. Shape the dough immediately after dividing. For a decorative effect, roll the top surface on a damp cloth, then roll the wet surface into whole rolled oats. 3. Place the shaped dough into the desired container. Shown is a Panibois® mold (size #6). 4. Place the shaped loafs in a warm and protected humid environment. Check the loaf’s readiness by pressing your fingers on the surface; the dough should feel relaxed. 5. Allow the whole wheat bread to cool completely before cutting. 6. To make rolls (also first step in making savory filled rounds): divide the dough and immediately shape into final form, place on a parchment-lined sheet pan, and proof until they have doubled in size. 7. Brush the rounds with a savory oil, open the center cavity with your fingers, and fill with desired toppings.
8. Tasty and savory filled rounds are baked in a hot deck oven (480ºF) until the desired color is achieved (about 15 minutes).
44 Pastry & Baking North America
Chef in Focus
Leslie Mackie is a busy lady. As chef/owner of Macrina Bakery, the place where Seattlites congregate for fresh baked goodness, Leslie is tasked daily with living up to her James Beard nominations, widely acclaimed cookbooks and her global reputation as a true artisan.
By Campbell Ross Walker Photography by S I G
46 Pastry & Baking North America
Chef in Focus
acrina Bakery is one of Seattle’s most popular artisan bakeries. As you approach the storefront situated on 1st Avenue in the hip, upscale neighborhood of Belltown, you can see people bustling in and out with bulging sacks of everything from the succulently savory to the sinfully sweet. With a broad spectrum of bakery fare, Macrina offers its patrons a full lunch menu with savory breads, sandwiches and soup, tasty bakery goodies such as cookies, slices of cakes and mini tarts. Add some eye opening, freshly ground espresso and a dedicated, passionate staff and you soon realize all the accolades are rightly deserved. Inside the bakery, you find a quaint space; music lightly plays over the din of customer chit chat and the bustle of a bakery in action. Customers line up and begin slinging out their orders while Macrina’s friendly staff attends to them with a smile. The woman behind Macrina’s success is owner/baker/pastry chef Leslie Mackie. Originally from Rose City, Oregon, Leslie has worked on both coasts in a variety of roles and outlets but decided to call Seattle home in early 90’s and took the plunge into entrepreneurship with the launch of Macrina in 1993. Leslie has received several nominations for the “Outstanding Pastry Chef Award” from the James Beard Foundation, which honors food and beverage industry professionals in America for their achievements. One of the highlights of Leslie’s career was her appearance on Julia Child’s “Baking with Julia” television series and her inclusion in the companion cookbook. Featured in numerous magazines and an active member in the Bread Bakers Guild of America and Les Dames d’Escoffier, Leslie got here start at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. The day we visited with Leslie, she balanced putting the finishing touches on a chocolate cake, ordering ingredients from her suppliers, managing the staff and time sheets while answering our questions and providing insight into Marcina. Quite the multi-tasker!
48 Pastry & Baking North America
P&B NA: How did you realize your culinary calling? LM: I started out at Restaurant Management School. However, when I graduated at 20 years of age, I was too young to launch my career. In Oregon, you have to be 21 to manager a restaurant. With some time on my hands, I decided to travel to Europe for 2 months and have a look around. Soon, I realized the necessity to round out my education. At that point, I didn’t know much about cooking, so I started tasting lots of varied cuisine. After awhile, I could distinguish a delicious Hollandaise but I was frustrated in not knowing how these sauces and associated dishes were created. That is when I decided to go to culinary school.
Even after starting my classes, I didn’t foresee a life as a chef. What I really aspired to be was a catering coordinator. I loved event planning, parties and that sort of stuff and thought a deeper understanding of the creative processes would be a huge benefit. However, after graduation, my Dad thought it important that I get practical, real world experience. He was right so I applied and was very fortunate to land a job at Ernie’s Restaurant in San Francisco. The position was like an apprenticeship which was great because I got to work all of the stations and really get a taste for the back of the house. I stayed there 1 year (1982) and have been in the kitchen ever since. I love it! How did you migrate over to the sweet side of the menu? To make a long story short, after Ernie’s, I worked at the Westin San Francisco. From there, I moved to Boston and my previous chef at Ernie’s suggested I look up his former sous chef, Lydia Shire, who happened to be in town and was the chef at the Bostonian Hotel. I did just that and went by for lunch and was blown away by the food. I introduced myself to Lydia and soon thereafter I started working for her at the Bostonian. One day, they needed help in the pastry kitchen and I got a chance to work with their chef and that was it. Hooked!. The pastry chef ’s name was Killian and he is extremely serious about what he does. His technique, style and combinations are beyond words. He has an excellent palette and has amazing integrity for his work. I couldn’t have started and learned from a better person. He showed me that something simple, if done perfectly, can make a powerful impact on your guests.
Chef in Focus
50 Pastry & Baking North America
Touching on palette, what would you say is your approach to flavor? I think balance is really important and learning this at a young age was a blessing. I say this now and look back on my early days in hot cooking and see how important it was to learn how to develop flavors; which is exactly what you do with bread. If you launch right into being a pastry chef you kind of miss out on the opportunity to do that. In the savory world, you are always developing flavors and learning how to layer flavors and textures. I feel having worked in savory has enhanced my approach to pastry and especially bread baking. I’d like to think my approach is simple but elegant. I work towards building and developing flavors rather than just adding multiple flavors for an immediate result. I enjoy developing flavor through starters and fermentation to get a variety of different tastes and textures. What brought you to Seattle? I was in Boston and I then moved out to Los Angeles to help open a hotel with Lydia Shire. I consider myself extremely fortunate to have worked with Lydia. She is brilliant. Lydia is such a creative chef and such an inspiration in terms of going to the source or going to the origin of a recipe. This is very important. So, I am in Los Angeles and the opening is a success and everyone is now leaving to return to Boston and open Lydia’s restaurant, Biba. I wanted to be closer to home since all my family is out here BUT I didn’t want to move all the way back again. I just wasn’t ready to return to Portland considering I grew up there and I already worked in all these great cities. I needed something a little more metropolitan. Don’t get me wrong, Portland is wonderful, but after reading articles on Seattle I decided this was where I wanted to be.
Chef in Focus
I visited Seattle, walked around Pike Place and discovered Grand Central Baking. It happened to be the first year they started doing rustic European breads. I dropped off a resume and was working there within a few weeks. It was a very exciting time to be at Grand Central Baking as the Seattle bread revolution was kicking into high gear. Back then, we had lines out the door and they were selling Como loafs that were not even made yet!
When did you decide to launch Macrina Bakery? Macrina opened in 1993 in a very small location. At the time, although very passionate about bread and the business, I was determined that operating the bakery would be a “part of my life” and not an ever present, dominate force in my life. I envisioned 1 month off per year for travel and vacation and staying small without too much hassle or headache. Those pre launch ideals lasted about 3 minutes after we opened the doors. Today, it’s a 25 hour a day passion that I would not change for the world.
52 Pastry & Baking North America
Chef in Focus
54 Pastry & Baking North America
Tell us about your book: Macrina Bakery & Cafe Cookbook. Andrew Cleary, general manager at the time, partnered with me and we worked with Sasquatch Publishing. What fun! We published in 2003 with the idea that the book would tell the story of our first 10 years of business and shed light on the inner workings at Macrina. Although extremely rewarding, it was not easy writing the book. The most time consuming task was altering our recipes for the “at-home baker” but this provided an excellent opportunity to really go over the recipes and fine tune them so they were perfect. To me, publishing was like childbirth with all the associated pain but when it’s over and published, it is well worth the effort! For me the success of the cookbook is not measured in the amount of sales you get but in the people having success with your recipes and loving the recipes. How do you feel about your 2007 nomination for the “Outstanding Pastry Chef Award” from the James Beard Foundation? Oh wow, well, I feel incredibly honored to even be nominated. There are so many talented people who are a part of James Beard. To be in their company is fantastic. We do simple and elegant things here at Macrina and I think most important is the quality of the bakery is consistent day to day. The fact that people in New York even know we exist is remarkable. Considering James Beard grew up in Portland and I am from Oregon makes my nomination ever more special. My biggest focus moving forward is to honor the nomination by maintaining our product quality and quality of service here at Macrina. Food bridges the gaps and brings us all together.
Chef in Focus
Fresh Fruit Coffee Cake
Try using one variety of fruit picked at the height of its growing season or mix two or three varieties. Very wet fruit like strawberries are less desirable as it will cause the coffee cake to stick to the pan.
Makes 1 bundt cake For the batter:
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 11/2 teaspoon baking soda 3/4 teaspoon salt 2 cups ripe fresh fruit (whole berries or cut 1/2 pieces) 12 T unsalted butter, room temperature 1 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup light brown sugar 2 eggs 11/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 11/2 cup buttermilk Preheat oven to 350°F. Oil a 12c bundt pan. Sift flour, baking soda and salt in a large bowl. Toss with your hands. Remove 1/4 cup flour mixture and toss with the fresh fruit. Set aside both bowls.
Combine butter, sugar and brown sugar in a bowl of a stand mixer. Using the paddle attachment, mix on medium speed for 5 to 8 minutes. The mixture will become smooth and pale in color. Add eggs, one at a time, making sure each egg is fully mixed into the butter before adding the other. After the last egg is incorporated, add the vanilla and mix for 1 minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and mix for another 30 seconds to make sure all the ingredients are fully incorporated. Remove the bowl from the mixer. Alternatively add small amounts of the flour mixture and the buttermilk to the batter, mixing with a wooden spoon. The last addition of flour will be with the tossed fruit. Fold gently to incorporate all ingredients making sure to evenly distribute the fruit. Spoon batter into prepared bundt pan, filling 2/3 the pan. Bake on the center rack of the oven for 1 hour and 30 minutes or until the top is golden brown. Check the center of the coffee cake with a skewer. It will come out clean when the cake is finished. Let cool in pan for 45 minutes. Loosen the sides of the cake with a sharp knife. Place a serving plate, upside down on the top of the cooled bundt pan and invert the pan to remove the cake. This delicious coffee cake needs no additional glaze. Powdered sugar dusted over with a few fresh flowers will jazz up the presentation.
56 Pastry & Baking North America
Three Colour Cigarettes
Publisher’s Note: In the world of gourmet chocolate creation, few can match the career and quality of Norman Love. As the former executive pastry chef for The Ritz-Carlton Company, Norman Love understands the importance of quality and presentation and his global brand of artisan chocolates can be found in innumerable retailers, restaurants and hotels around the world. For more information on Chef Norman and his gourmet chocolates, please visit his website (www.normanloveconfections.com) or his retail salon in Fort Myers, Florida.
Marble slab Airbrush Scotch tape Putty knives Offset spatula
White chocolate Colored cocoa butter
58 Pastry & Baking North America
1. Lightly apply Scotch tape to marble slab approximately one inch apart. Then place one piece of tape diagonally across the original lines of tape. 2. Airbrush first color of cocoa butter on the marble slab on the bias crossing the tape. Leave one inch between each line.
3. In between the lines, spray the second color of cocoa butter. 4. Remove the diagonal piece of tape to expose the bare marble. 5. Pour white chocolate to cover the entire airbrushed area. 6. Allow the white chocolate to harden.
7. Using a putty knife, clean the four edges to create a rectangle. Remove the excess chocolate. 8. With a putty knife at a 45-degree angle, quickly and forcefully, in one motion, push the chocolate into a 1/8-inch band to create individual three-color chocolate “cigarettes.”
60 Pastry & Baking North America
1908 – 2008
100 Years – from us to you
In 1908, Max Felchlin crafted his ﬁrst artisan product. A century later, Felchlin’s unique specialties inspire passionate chefs from around the world to push the boundaries of creativity in pursuit of gastronomic excellence. We remain humbly at your service.
For more information visit www.felchlin.com or contact Swiss American Imports, LLC in Miami Phone (800) 444-0676
FOAMING – Part 1
Essentially, foams are the result of mechanically incorporating air into egg whites, which consist almost entirely of proteins and water so that the resulting preparation gains volume and becomes as light as possible in texture. Adding air is not an issue, but past a certain point, excessive beating will break and collapse the foam. Research has shown that in order to gain more volume in a foam from the protein available, more water must be added (typically beaten in after the foam reaches maximum volume). However, the “water” need not be just water but instead can be an aromatic liquid such as fruit juice, wine, or an infusion, which results in many different foams with unique and distinct flavors and colors. Another option for ‘flavored’ foams is through the use of albumen or egg white powder. In this form, the typically freeze dried egg whites must be reconstituted with water before foaming. Replacing the water with a non-fat aromatic liquid such as fruit juice or cooking stock, and you have opened a new realm of possibilities.
Publisher’s Note: Dominique and Cindy Duby are the chefs and owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets®, a critically acclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which has emerged as one of North America’s finest artisan chocolatiers. The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc., a Vancouver-based international firm offering culinary training and consulting services to hotels and catering companies worldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing services such as product development, food styling, and photography. For more information, visit www.dcduby.com
180 mL raspberry purée 20g albumen powder* 80g granulated sugar *This recipe is tested with ALBEN Elements by DC DUBY, other albumen may be substituted but results may differ.
Preheat oven to 200°F. Pour the raspberry purée into a tall and narrow container and add the ALBEN. Using an electric mixer, whip until stiff peaks. Add in the sugar an continue mixing until well combined. Using a rectangular template, evenly spread a thin layer of the meringue on a silicon mat. Fill the remaining meringue into a piping bag fitted with a small round tube and pipe straight lines on top of the rectangle. Bake for approximately 50 to 60 minutes or until dry and crisp. Remove from the tray, let cool briefly on a wire rack and immediately store in an airtight container.
62 Pastry & Baking North America
ALMOND BUTTER MOUSSE
200g almond butter 50 mL almond oil 50g invert sugar 5 mL vanilla extract 60g milk chocolate, melted 100g soft butter Combine the almond butter, almond oil, and invert sugar in a blender and mix until well combined. Add the vanilla extract, melted milk chocolate, and mix until all combined. Transfer mixture into an electric mixer, add the butter, and whip until the cream is light and airy. Let set in the refrigerator.
Assembly Just before service, place the cold almond mousse in a pastry bag fitted with a round tube and pipe beads or lines on top of the meringue. Arrange a few fresh raspberries on top of the cream and top with another meringue. Finish with a fresh raspberry and a piece of gold leaf. Serve immediately.
64 Pastry & Baking North America
exquisite chocolate. excellent price.
ALBERT USTER IMPORTS 1.800.231.8154 WWW.AUISWISS.COM
2 loaves 1 baking pan
Red Wine Bread
*Recipe from ‘A Collection of Fine Baking’, by Young Mo Kim.
400g bread flour 100g rye meal 50g sugar 10g salt 15g instant dry yeast 50g egg 270 gred wine 80g unsalted butter 200g chopped walnuts Before you begin
1. Mix and sift bread flour and rye meal and set aside. 2. Whisk the egg in a separate bowl prior to adding to the mix at Step 2. 3. Read the steam baking technique at Step 13, and prepare in advance.
Publisher’s Note: Successful entrepreneur, award winning author, instructor, international representative and current President of the Korean Bakers Association, Chef Kim Young Mo is an institution. As a trailblazing visionary in the pastry and baking fusion movement, Chef Kim marries his classical European training with his appreciation for Asian ingredients and tastes. Photos and text courtesy of Dream Character, Inc.
66 Pastry & Baking North America
5. 7. 1.
3. Add unsalted butter and continue to knead for another 4-6 minutes. The color of the dough may vary due to the color of the wine. 4. Using your palm, press down the dough to flatten it. Add chopped walnuts and fold in the dough. 5. First Rise. Make a round ball and place it in a large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, putting a few holes in the wrap for the dough to breathe, and leave at room temperature for one hour. 6. Bench. Divide the dough in half. Make a round ball and cover with plastic wrap. Leave at room temperature for about 20 minutes. 7. Shape. Lightly roll the dough with a rolling pin to make an oval shape.
Put sifted bread flour and rye flour on a work surface. Add sugar and salt and mix together. Add instant dry yeast and lightly mix in with your fingers.
2. Make a well and add whisked egg and red wine. Knead for about 5 minutes or until the dough doesn’t cling to your hands. *Use cold wine during the summer, and room-temperature wine for the winter.
8. Starting from the long end, roll the dough. Seal the end by squeezing the dough together with your fingers. 9. Turn the dough over so the seam faces down. 10. Spray water evenly over the dough. 11. Second Rise. Dip the wet side in extra bread flour. Place the dough on a pan. Cover with plastic wrap (see page 35 for further explanation) and leave at room temperature for 40-50 minutes. 12. Use a knife to make a 1/4 ” (7mm) deep diagonal slash (or be creative!). 13. Bake. Preheat the oven to 430ºF/220ºC for about 30 minutes prior to baking. When you turn on the oven, place clean rocks in a separate pan and place it in the bottom rack (these rocks will be very hot by the time you put the bread dough in the oven). Place the dough in the oven (picture 13a). Have a cup of water ready and pour it over the heated rocks (picture 13b). As soon as you pour the water, close the oven door quickly to keep the steam inside. Turn down the temperature to 355ºF/180ºC and bake for 28-30 minutes.
68 Pastry & Baking North America
THE FINEST CONFECTION SELECTION
Rich, ultra-premium, handmade and exquisitely painted chocolates from Norman Love Confections begins with the world’s finest ingredients—Swiss Grand Cru chocolate and ganaches created with Thai coconuts, Sicilian pistachios or Tahitian vanilla. We are pleased to offer our chocolates, available in more than three dozen tantalizing flavors, to restaurants, hotels, gourmet markets and catering companies nationwide. For information please call, visit our Web site or e-mail email@example.com. 11380 Lindbergh Boulevard, Fort Myers, FL 33913
Caramel Crémeux with Hazelnut Logs
Photography by Dragon Filipovic
Caramel Cremeux 100g sugar 25g butter 500g cream 35% 120g egg yolks 6g gelatin leaves
1. Caramelize the sugar and add the butter. 2. Incorporate the egg yolks and temper the caramel vanilla cream and cook at 85ºC. Add the softened gelatin. 3. Strain the anglaise. 4. Pour in flexipan mold and freeze.
Publisher’s Note: As the former Executive Pastry Chef at the French Embassy, Washington, D.C. and a 10 year Ritz Carlton Group veteran, Eric is the driving force (chef/owner) behind Visage Pâtisserie and the recently launched Macaron Pastry Training Centre in Bangkok (www.macaronbkk.com).
70 Pastry & Baking North America
Financier 170g almond flour 100g cake flour 335g sugar 225g egg whites 285g melted butter (noisette) 100g lemon semi confit
1. Sift the cake flour, almond flour and sugar. Add the egg whites and melt the butter (noisette). Pipe the financier mix into flexipan.
2. Add the semi confit. 3. Cover with silpat and bake at 200ºC. 4. Place the financier on the top of the caramel cremeux (just set)
Hazelnut Cream 300g pastry cream 50g praline paste 50g pate de noisette 4g gelatin 250g whipped cream 1. Make a pastry cream and set aside. Soften the gelatin in cold water. Smooth the pastry cream. Add the praline paste and hazelnut paste. Melt and warm up the gelatin and add to the praline cream. Fold in gently the whipped cream. Pipe onto silpat and freeze. 2. Cut into small logs.
Chocolate Garnish Milk chocolate 1. Pour tempered chocolate onto plastic sheet. 2. Spread the milk chocolate evenly over the sheet. 3. Cut into small strips 4. While still not set yet, fit the plastic sheet into a small Yule log mold and allow to set. Once ready, remove from the mold and take out rolled chocolate.
Assemble the dessert and serve with vanilla bean ice cream and dot with small amounts of chocolate sauce.
72 Pastry & Baking North America
This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?
We've moved you to where you read on your other device.
Get the full title to continue reading from where you left off, or restart the preview.