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Make Mend for Victory 1942 1 of 2

Make Mend for Victory 1942 1 of 2

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Published by: Tegan Smith on Feb 13, 2012
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FOn, YICTORY* BooK tfo. S.tO* pn,tcE rO GExTs
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CONSUMBROS VIOTOBY

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I will buy carefully- ancl I will not buy anything above the ceiling price, no matter how much I may want it. I will take good care of the things I have- and I will not buy anything made from vital war materials which I can get along without.

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ready, efficient, stron.g.

I will wastenothing- and I n'ill take care to salvage everything needed to win the war."
CoNsunrr,n DrvrsroN, Office of Price Administration It's up to you to keep the home fires burning, to seethat you and your family stay easy-onthe-eyes. Fortunatellr /ou can be patriotic and pretty both. It's easy to teach an old wardrobe new tricks, to resurrect the skeleTABLE
I In The Basket
What You Need in Your Sewing Basket and How to Conserve What You Have II Life Extension Page 5

tons in your closet and bring them up to date. Come on- take those old knockabouts and turn them into knockouts, keep that glint in Uncle Sam's eye and still do your stint torvards Victory!

O[. CONTENTS
}' Cutting Up In A Big Way
a. You Have the Goods on Him (How to convert a man's suit into a woman's suit) b. The Shirt Off His Back t Interesting ways to use men's shirts to good advantage) c. There's Life in the Old GirI Yet (Suggestions for women's and restyling girli' clothing) d. Junior Editions (How to make attractive clothes for young folks)

Page 4

Page 31

Page )2

How to Mend and Patch

Page 40

III

Fit For Anything
Alterations and Restyling

Page 9

IY

Variety Is The Spice Of Life .
a. White Collar Class (Dickeys and collars) b. Smart Headwork (Hats to make and remake) c. Telling Trifles (Accessories from scraps of yarn, cotton and fabiic)

Page 41

Page 13
Page 14 Page 18

Page 44

YI YII YIII

Page26

How To Reclaim Used Wool SuggestionsFor Easy Sewing . . List Of Materials

Page 47 Page 48 Page 50

Copyright l942,The SpoolCotton Company

ffi.r' iii:.:: !:::/ |F # H-9002 C'33-Second Edition .

. if yorr have to run to the store every time you decide to sew. Paper dulls them badly.rrrist with an elastic.. use the correct length of thread. . are Zipperso Buttonso and Snaps. epply frequently a drop of lubricating oil at the joini. Brass dressmaker pins. 50. . Pins . Lut them off and use them agairi. If you can have only one. Make a list of your ordinary sewing problems and consult the chart on p. . Care of Seissors o o . Keep scissorsclean. Seraps of Fabrieo Thread and Yarn. Milward's. Thread . wide enough to accommodate the longest needle and long enough to hold the number of needles ordinarily used. dressmaker's shears or pinking shears. To preserve needles from rust. For seraiee-use J. Care of Pins . or the distance from the middle finger to the elbow. It is a waste of-time and energy. Scissors . always tuck end in notclt provided at outer edge. . This book has many attractiye suggestions for their use. To sharpen needles use an emery. To prevent thread from unroliing from the spool. they may be salvaged very easily. . eighteen inches.. . FoId at center a piece of tape or ribbon six inches long. cut a strip of woolen material. There is a thread for every purpose and it js rvise to have an assortment on hand. . wear a small pincushion heid at the lefi r. and serv fold to center edge of width of piece. have a smoothly finished eye which prevents the thread from fraying.ffi' I. Pink the edges. buttons and snaps. A Tape Dfeasure and a Yardstiek useful and necessary if you intend to sew. Bry the best scissorsand shears you can afford. Sewing Needles.. Do not discard your scraps.9". A small scissorsis handy for cutting buttonholes. Pins are hard to get. 50 to see what you should have. If this notch becomes broken. . When you are discarding articles of clothing. Scissors for sewing must not be used to cut materials other than fabrics and thread. If you do much sewing. . it is a simple matter to cut a new one with a razor blade.. TO a SDWING BASI(BT _ WIIAT COITSBRVB YOU IIA\/D Care of Thread . Buy needlesof superior material. Pins of inferioi quality spoil the ^ fabric ih wtrictr they are used. Oroehet lfooks and trInitting Pins . 8" in length? are a necessity. There is a size and type for every kind of sewing. . sizes 5 and 6 are very good. Needles will rust if allowed to remain sticking in it. Care of Needles o . Stick needles on this woolen material when they are not being used. . look at the zippers. and if you pick them up and save them you are helping the war effort. Small and attractive accessories can be made quickiy and easily with them.yIIAT YOU NDEID IN YOUE AND IIOrf/ . If they are still good. ripping seams and snipping thread. a sharp smooth point which does not catch in the fabric. In this way. buy good scissorsabout 8" in length. as dust and dirt dull them. a small bag often made in the shape of a strawberry..4. Have a selection of these tools in the sizes you are mosl likely to use. coats-clarkts @EE) threads in correet sizes . . See chart on p. . Roll it un and tie it. & P. To avoid knotting and "about fraying. as soon as pins are removed. When you are using pins.. . made of hand ground steel.

Separate strands according to weight of stoching. 49). c. Rayon stockings should be allorved to dry 48 hours. Launder stockings carefully after water each n'earing in lukewarm with mild soap flakes. as they do not have the same elasticity. set tlis up. . AIIow to dry completely. & P. 5. Arrange stitches so that needle comes out over edges of hoie. Fagotting Use J. Thread machine rvith matching thread. and a judiciousand gallant-patch wiII keep {nany a dress going to a ripe old age.. Buy two pairs of the same color at one time in the correcl size. Bring pulled threads through to wrong side and secure with tiny stitches to prevent runs.vt Duty vrncrnrzED sEwrNG TIIREAD so that it will hold and then darn it down into seam or fabric rvhere it pulled out. 4. For the same reason do not stitch elastic webbing on the machine. . RolI dorvn to the toe and draw them up easily. you will cover it and aiso strengthen the worn part. a. I(eep it out of the sun and heat when drying. . and length in accordance with the length of leg and of girdle. Examine for worn places and repair as follows: a. Choose a shade a little darker than stocking as thread rvorks in lighter. On eacir succeeding row increase number of stitches so that when you come to the hole. With stockIfarning ing right side out. stretching while pinning. \Yhen sewing on elasticized fabric catch stitch is ahvays best to use because it has more "give. Stitch by machine close to edge. Trim ragged edges of hole. garter or stocking should be longer. 1). Fasten garters straight and in center of double hem of stocking. PuIi paper apart to free stitches. Garters-a. re-stitch. sew them onto the under side of garment and finish off with a tape or satin ribbon for additional reinforcement. Try the needle-and-thread treatment for that "just stepped out of a bandbox" look. b. When you need to use darning thread. insert egg under hole. Your girdles will keep you in shape indefinitely if vou apply First Aid in time. Jffeave stitches in the same \val' across the rvidth over ancl under foundation stitches alreedy made (Fig. 50 {or correct threads. When choosing a girdle: . Do not use a knot and make Iengthwise threads first. b. Darn on right side. & P.Ir0sr TO MDNID ANI} PATCH You've no idea how quickly wilted wardrobes respond to kindness. llending Runs . Cut thread rvhen finished and tuln darn around. Take care not to put your needle through any rubber threads for it will cut them. 2). . If only stitching has been broken. Coars Hn-Lvy Dury I{ERCERTzED tltlnEan an:l a catch stitcil (see p. b. the right. Alternate wear of garments each week il you have two. etc. b. 3. Do not dry near heat. . take a few running stitches far enough from the hole to take in all the lvorn part. Pin fold to piece of paper. Coers Hne. see p. Put stockings on carefully. 2. . . Take care not to pull threads rvith rings. Fasten lisle stockings more loosely than others. Alrvavs fasten garters in double hem. Buy rayon stockings as follows: a. Launder garment once a week. IJse a darning egg. GIBIILES To Make Girdles Last Longer 1. (Fig. Turn. Many General l)irections things that can be done to lengthen the usefulness of stockings are described below. bracelets. Decrease length of rows on other side of hole. FoId so that run is on fold. Reinforce worn places in foot with small running stitches parallei to weave.size-size of a stepP"I rn Is your warsl measurement. If back garter comesat opening in double hem. b. mercerized Turn stocking wrong side out. a Hole . Use fleshy part of hand-not fingernails to take hold of elasticized labric. c. cuticle. with skillful mending your stockings will outlast all their contemporaries. 3. Tie and clip ends of thread. If you cannot easily put the new garters between the double fabric. If they pull. b. If rubber is lifeless." 4. Ropair 1.5. N{end split seams with an over and over stitch. 2. cut garters off and replace with new ones. 4. 5. To llake Stocklngs Last Longer l. Examine the garrnent for worn places and repair as soon as they appear. 2. Rirrse thoroughly and rvrap il in a turkish torvel. Seams-Sew twill lape or satin fabric as a reinforcement on under side. Buy leg length about 2" shorter than silk or nylon-they are apt to stretch. in a weight suitable to their use. STOCIilNGS . Te'st length of garters in sitting position. . weaving back and forth with small running stitches. Buy cotton reinforced toes-or reinforce on wrong side with cotton darning thread. Elastic Webbing-Catch the end of each rubber thread that has pulled out and wrap it securely with J. c. Leaving a short end free. Ieaving a small loop at turning. 3. When putting on a girdle: a.

Place thumb and forefinger in loop. Sew hooks and eyes with double thread and an over and over stitch through holes. l'{ake large loop by taking another stitch in same place. . o. Do not draw stitch ail the way through. HoId sarment closed to mark point lor othei half of snap. If possible. Start n'ithout a knot. and other side of snaD to shoulder seam directly over thi top half of snap (Fig. Draw edges together by overhanding through the blanket stitches (Fig. a). stitch seam from wrong side by machine. Press neckband (seams still turneC in) and collar section well.ted. Ontarong side of collar run a basting thread down the center (Fig. 9). Insert needle in seam ar second marking. Insert needle 1" from beginning of split. Fasten off invisiblv and run thread end on inside for" 1" befo. & P. 11). after first stitch place a pin across top under thread to ireep it loose (Fig. use dark shields or cover them with lining material. Place button in posiLion over knot and anchor in place by sewing through shank. seam is mended with an invisible stitch from right side. LINGEBID STNAPS F. Coer:s HBavv Durv MERcERTZED THREAD. 7). hold it down. Using double thread. Sew each hole separately and carry thread on wrong side of garrnent to next hole (Fig. SPLIT SDAMS Hooks and Eyes. pigskin. securing ends of stitching carefully and concealing all thread ends inside glove. folded into a square. . and sewed on wrong side as button is sewed on (Fig. i-nsert needle {rom right side at marked point. On inner side of neckband run a colored basting down the center (Fig. Continue to catch 2 or 3 threads alternately on either side of split (Fig. Ease whelevel necessarv. . making same seam allowance as before. make a band 7/9" long of single crochet (use Cr-rnn's O. The straight m6tal ba". remove pin and wind thread between button and fabric several times to form a shank (Fig. Remove collar from top o{ neckband by ripping stitching carefully (Fig. 1o). Reinforce this point with small buttonhole stitch (see p. knot ends. Keep stitches very small. if there is not enough for a seam. On Iapped seams. 8). After sufficient stitches have been taken through holes. TURNING TIIE COT T AN. Attach flat side first. Buttons . . . capeskin.) On opposite edge of opening and di. sewed close by machine. draw thread through loop. Lup garment. Pass needle through last Ioop and draw thread tightly to close chain. and inseit needle through seam from wrong side at top marking. Bnrr-lraNr is suitabie for cotton. Using a double thread" knot. thread bar worked with a blanket stitch is placed on seam line. calf. 3). take several small stitches. MMffiFffiffi . and mark with a pin a point tf " from the end of buttonhole nearest edse. .T. etc. Tack shield also to side and sleeve seams (Fig. Cr-enr<'sO. use matching J. (Knot is clipped when mending is finished. AIDS TO GOOID GISOOD{ING IDRDSS SHIELI}S Secure shields in desired nosition with invisible stitches. matching edge to edge and point to point. The curved elie extends sliglrtly beyond edge of opening (Fig. AND CUT'FS ON A MAN-9S SHIRT Determine exact center of collar and neckband by folding them in half.N. reinforce with a piece of garment fabric. 16). . thus maliing another loop. . 15). BDLT LOOPS Mark half the width of belt above and below waistline. Use Heavy Duty Thread for fabrics with firm body. Continue chain of loops to desired length. 1l). Tack shield at each end of curved seam to under armhole seam. Sew one end to shoulder seam half way between armhole and center of shoulder seam. tightening first one (Fig. Draw this loop out. Sew flat side of a small snap to free end. For heavy leathers. To prevent straps from breaking or being trcrublesome. Pull thread un from time to time. Sew snap lasteners with an over and over stitch using double thread and concealing knot under snap. 14). Using forefinger. 6). If there is unusual strain on a button or it is sewed to a single thickness of fabric. Pin from center out. 5). of narrow tape. it is nossible to make blanket stitches ilong edges of ripped seam to strengthen it. In lined coats. Mark center of each with pin. Sew over hook near toD t. rectlv across" catch 2 or 3 threads on needie.T MrncrRrzED lrrREAD doubled).6. matching centers carefully. or of narrow bands of dress fabric. Do not stretch band or collar. If button has holes. Use General Button and Canret Thread for serving buttons on rfen's and boys' heavy clothes. Use Mercerized Thread in a matching shade. and fasten securely. For coats and suits.ASTENERS l)irections . takingititches only through finished edge of shield.ffiNNffiruM GLOYDS Split seams in gloves are mended in manner of original stitching in whip stitch or running stitch. leaving it Ioose enough that it will not pull when garment is on.N. . Place snaps not more than 2" apart.u clipping. Pull out all thread ends. r2). Snaps . SmaII buttons are used to reinforce buttons on oYercoats (Fig. Bring thread to wrong sirle. and lun thread between trvo thiclincsses of fabric before clipping. drarv through to wrong side. 49). Insert reversed collar in nechband. doeskin.

) Darn each side completely so that stitches overlap at corners (Fig.. To begin. Raw edses of the hole are basted to patch-and then darned to patch witl rows of small running siitches as in darn for straight tear.T.ng in the sun. Darn on right side. 27). Tear Three Cornered is both lengthwise and crosswise. 20). Cut patch 1" larger on aII sides than hole after edges have been straightened. 17). 25). If necessary. On wrong side of garment turn in raw edges of patch t/a" and baste to garment (Fig. Cut away worn portion as for hemmed patch. Otherwise use Cr-. Do not clip corners of hole.ffiffi Baste both sides of neckband to collar along old stitching line (Fig.N. On right side of garment clip corners of hole diagonally about /a".. Stitches run at riglrt angleito opening. CIip closely (Fig. taking stitches through both thicknesses of material. if a similar piece of fabric is not available. fade patch to correspond by washing in soap suds and baking soda. . This is scarcely noticeable rvhen the shirt has been carefullv laundered. . Following the thread of goods. I)arned Patch . used on utoolens . Using threads of material as guide. Baste to wrong side under thin spot. leaving an end of 6" on wrong side. right side showing through. and a darn would be too conspicuous and not strong enough. (Use thread drawn from hem or side. . a thread of fabric drawn from the hem or side makes a neat and inconspicuous darn. When General hcle is large. . Do not darn too tightly but leave a very small Ioop at each turning. Occasionally the collar {acing varies slightly Irom the rest of the shirt in tlrat it is cut on the opposite grain. 26). Cut piece of material same as garment just a little larger than rn'orn place.. 21). Ease sleeve into turned cuff. Press. .rnr's O. Hornrned Pateh . . Cut patch 1 " Iarger than hole. and any patiern should match exactly. cut a\\'at. 23). but in direction of tear. . PATCIIE S llireetions . Tl'orn Plaee On Garnent.o which comes in many shades so that it is easy to secure a matching color. Tear . Continue for about f{" beyond end. On one row make the stitch over tear and on next row under. Stitch edges down by machine or hand hem (Fig.\\'orn port. . Press. Baste and stitch on outside. Cut a piece from hem or seams to obtain matclring patch. Do not make a knot as there is no strain on material. Inconspicuous. For General u'oolens. Effiffiffi@ffi . catch thread through stitches o{ last row and clip. Tear.. When you reach the tear. take a few rows of small running stitches back and forth. 24). about /a" beyond end of tear and a little to the right. Stitch by machine from inside around edge using a small stitch. I)iagonal Tear . Thread needle with 6" thread Iefi hanging at beginning and catch it through stitches of at least one row. Do not sew raw edges of patclr io garment on wrong side. On wool material. Begin at one end and darn one side completely. Darn with small running stitches parallel to lengthwise thread. Threads in natch must run same wav as those in 'garment.on to rnele either a square or rectangle (Fig. Stitches at corners thus overiup u. fit edges together and sew across opening. Darn in same manner as for straiqht tear.rd are strengthened (Fig. Straight bring thread through from wrong side of garment.7. . Remove basting. Pin patch in place under hole. Remore cuff br ripping stitching across top (Fig. 22). Turn in raw edges and baste to patch (Fig. and drr-.c. To finish. . Finish these edges with overcast stitch (Fig. 18). It is oractical to turn cuffs onlv rvhen lhey fold back. and J. . . Over these stitches work another set at right angles to first (Fig. Then begin at other end and darn that side comoletelv. baste a piece of net under worn spot and darn as for tear. Coers MencrnrzEo Trrnr. & P. . MtsNIIING TEARS l)ireotions . and cover entire worn area as for darning a tear. . In a diagonal tear both lengthwise and crosswise threads are cut. . the hole is patched with material same as garment. rinsing rvell.19).

. Allowing 1. . IJse commercial transfer patterns or plan simple embroidery. Dr.which ne^eds no pattern (monograms. Straighten hole as for hemmed patch. Press. Cut hole into a rectangle. 4. Ciip corners diagonally for 3/E" (Fig. leaving stitch on back needle. Insert darning needle as if to k in the first stitch of back neeclle. Place stitches on the stitch holder or safety pin on the second knitting needle. 37). Pless seam open. On wrong side overhand patch to garment u iilr tiny stitches (Fig..geall around. 32). 38).. Place the stitches at top of hole on a stitch holder or safety pin (Fig. Turn the work and hold it so that the two knitting needles have stitches even and parallel. coats-clark's GEED threads in eorreet sizes . Slip stitch (see p. Baste. basle edge of patch to edge of hole. Do same on 3 remaining sides.With patch flat" where creasei corne to a point. Insert darning needle as if to p in first stitch of front needle. Fold the pieces at both sides of opening back to wrong side of sv/eater. Pull up stitching and raw edge will turrt under. At each corner slash by separating 3 stitches as shown in (Fig. Cut out flowers from printed fabric allowing /4" ed. For eervice-use J. . flnderarm Patch. Nleasure dimensions of hole with edges turned back. draw yarn through but leave this stitch on needle. Pin in place with pins at right angles to folded edees. cross sritch). 35) shows finished Patc11. Turn edges under as far as possible. Press. 5. . Rip seams about edges of hole back /2" and /2".aw through the yarn. Draw yarn through. Turn dress to wrong side. Double over a short end of yarn and draw a loop through first stitch and proceed as in regular knitting. Overcast raw edges.tch . 3. ending with a k row. and slip this stitch off the front needle. 1. Overcast raw_edges... but Ieave the stitch on front needle. and the strand of yarn is at the end of back needle. Remove bastings. leaving stitch on front needle. Break off yarn so that a 1. Baste with smail stitches at these points (Fig. Darn in loose end at beginning ol work. Pless through a damp cloth. .. (Fig. Weave the stitches on the two needles together as follolvs: as if to p. Sew neatly in place with matching yarn (Fig.knit p. Abbreviations k. Press down. Turn in 3f " allowance on one side.purl st.. Put patch directly under hole. Sew side edges neatly to the side edges of rectangle on rvrong side of hole. Holes may be cleverly hidden by means o{ appliqu6. Press. cut off triangle of goods (Fig. Run a loose machine stitch %" from raw edge. Carefully match patch and cut it -3ls" Iarger than the hole on all sides. Insert darning needle as if to k in first stitch of front needle (same stitch as before). 31). . Embroidery may also be used to conceal tears and darns.k in stockinette st (k 1 row. Baste around turned edge.33).2" Ior seam. With a double-pointed steel knitting needle pick up the stitches at bottom of ho1e. . Insert darning necdle in next siitch of front needle 'E. Straighten edges of hole. . and slip this stitch off.WHffi@NM NN Owerlrand Pa.Turn press (Fig.[" length is ]eft. saddle-stitchin[. Cut patch/s" Iarger all around than opening. Original pattern or commercial transfers may also be used. Thread a darning needle with this length. 49) in place with small invisible stitches. each coiner oI which comes at a seam line (Fig.stitch Appliqu6 for PaJches. & P. 2. 36). Cut away worn porlion in a square.. Insert darn. draw yarn through. Least noticeable (not uery strong). Insert darning needle in next stitch on back needle as if to k. lu"ydaisy. 29). Repeat steps 4 and 5 until stitches are worked off. 30). Wor.. Four seams meet at underarm.. l}nbroidery for patches . llnitted Pateh . 28). p 1 row) until work reaches the top of the hole. It shouid fit exactlv.ing needle as if to p in first stitch on back needle. Place paich over hole right side doivn. all 6. Stitch on bastins Iine (Fig. Attach matching yarn at right side. 3a).

om edgc. hem persists in showing. its collar trim. take off old seam binding to use again. chosen for desired new lines. and pulling this up to fit. Machine stitch seam bindinq or cotton bias trim along gathering line. gather fullness to fit hemline bv running a loose machine stitch t/+" fr. PreJs. Take out old hem. and catcL s t i t c h i n p l a c e ( s e ep . Nobody will ever guess tire age of your coat if its hem swings straight and true.. 4. a waist taken in. and slip stitch (see p. choose a mercerized tlrread of matching coi-o-rand machine stitclr over the mark. Two inches is an average finished width. For Finishes cottons. Occasionally alteration entails a change of one or trvo objectionable features so as to restyle the garment. Parts to be recut are ripped flat. Baste close to fold. 1).spriading fullness evenly into the places where it wanti to fall naturaily. Contrasting fabric is chosen so that rlaEss PR. Mark at desired hemline by having someone measure the distance Jrom floor with a yardstick and mark it at short intervals aiound bottom of skirt by inserting pins parallel to floor (Fig. Is the style adaptable to the change? The general rules for this kind of alteration are as follows: 7 . it is sufficient to pink (see p.oolens. using a gauge (Fig. Is the color becoming? If r:ot. Turn up hem at new line by folding fabric at pin line and placing pins at right angles to fold (Fig.r.e is the same as tlLat outlined above. u. For lrcauy firmly utouen u-. 2. but very full skirts should have narrower hems. OF. In this case there are a few important considerations: 1. 2). 3). but keeping in mind the existing Iines of the garment. 5.. and skirts u. if. Press on wrong side. Is the original fabric good enough to survive the change? 2. snap to attention like brave and pretty soldiers t'or seruice. DNESS u. N K m IIom L. 3.9. z.OBLDtrIS. * For a skirt the procedure is the same as that outlined above. Alteration frequently involves only a few simple adjustments. Put on garment.ith some fullness. For rayons. Hint: When lengthening the skirt. or dream your dress isn't this year's vintage if its shoulders are smooth. Press out crease mark from wrong sidl through a damp cloth. or use a commercial skirt marker sct at proper height. following the grain. 49). 48) the hem edge" run a machine stitching close to the edge. "bagginess" eliminated at the back. wearing shoes of a suitable heel height. Shrink out excess fullness by pressing through a damp cloth. * For a skirt the p. The same applies to colors and prints. To make desired changes use a commercial pattern. can it be dyed? 3. after cleaning and pressing.oced. a new lining.skirts. Finish hem suitably. Follow these simple as ABC directions and watch your tired wardrobe put on new airs. it is suitable to the existing garment. and coats may need hems or sleeves lengthened or shortened. Slip stitch.oolens. 3. 2. 3. Match seams. Rather choose a plain contrast.there sltirt is not too full. 4 9 ) . Dresses. pin..LBNcTH IIow to Alter llerns 1. the line of the former. rayons) and other waslrubles . . Trim to desired width.. Do not attempt to match weaves. pressed and treated as new fabric. turn in raw edge /a" and machine stitch close to edge.ALTERATIONS A1TD BDSTYLING For external use only: a thimbleful of dressmakers' tricks guaranteed to take the years off your clothes in the twinkling of a needle's eye.

2. Shortening Sktrt a TulI Length 1. baste seam aIlowance back along marking line. Baste around pin line. Baste. Press both edges. Baste. Sew enough pieces together that strip equals width at bottom skirt. Mark center front and center back of skirt and waist. Stitch around bottom edge taking /2" seam. and matching cenl. For facing.-insert placket. Measure desired number of inches down from waistline all around skirt and mark with pins. 4. Conceal piecing with a contrasting peplum. 8. 5). hemmed by hand (see p. t0. pin to waist at waistline. Trim seam to /a. Run basting along-pin Iine. Baste and pless. Mark fold at top of skirt and new side seam lines. Note: Most difficulty in putting in zippers may be avoided by using a cording {oot on the machine in place of the regular presser foot. so of 5. Pin skirt to correct waistline matching centers and side seams. Press.-nder Hotu To Aher Henu frorrr a l)ress Shortening (lVhen Lower Sr'aistline Be Altered) Ddgo Cannot I. Stitch front of placket to tape on right side using a cording foot. 5. stitch skirt placket. 7. Ease fabric to tape so that metal will lie flat. Mark new seam lines on back and front with nins placed parallel to seam. 4. 6. + For a skirt. Turn under top of skirt at basting line. Baste around marked line. press. so that peplum will be part of dress and not obviously a cover up (Fig. S). '19). 3. press open. seam above and belorv placket opening (length of zipper teeth). 2. On risht side. and remake front of dress in contrasting fabric also. Rip side seams of skirt to bastrng rlne. rip off belt and follow above procedure. Measure of skirt. A). ron! back @ . 2. Fold facing back to wrong side along seamline. Other Suggestions For Longthening tr I)rcss A Folded Band of Contrasting Color may be added to a dirndl typc of skirt. Determine how many inches you wish to shorten dress (see p. TI'AISTLTND lV-aistline Too Low 1. press. 49) 3 inches wide. to waist. This is a special foot which may be purchased at very small cost. Stitch back 1/a" by machine. Continue Iold 3/+" above and below opening (Fig. pin skirt to rvaistline. Hem is marked with chalk or pencil /a" below point where dress touches floor. 4. Put on dress and mark correct lvaistline with pins. Fit side seams. Press out folds. Strips of contrasting material cut either 71" or 15" wide allow for a double fold and a /s inch seam allowance. distance around bottom 3. Place two basting lines together and sew right side seam. . Take up or let down as necessary by turning under more or less around top of skirt. follow c e d ur e . Stitch. Baste around pin line. At back of placket opening. 2. Finish hem suitably (see Hem Finishes t. 5. 6. sew Left side Mffi .lline 1. graduating into old seams. trim to 3/+". 2. Baste and stitch side seams along marking lines. Rip skirt from waist and rip nlacket from skirt. Make allowance for the extra width of the zipper slider and continue stitclringat that widrh-(Fig. Stitch close to edse with cording foot. 3. Put on dress and check evenness of hemline. Remove skirt and trim top edge 3/4" aboye marking line. At ends of tape. DRESS 7. Remove dress. * For a skirt follow the same procedure as above except that the belt is rippcd off first. In same manner.9). Excess lenqth on belt is taken off at back of opening. Extend slitclring beyond opening to end of tape at both ends (Fig. 7). Refit botl-side seams by pinning in excess fullness evenly on sides (Fig. insert at ll-ais. Join ends. I)ress Too Large marking. When there is not enough fabric to turn up.". 9. Mark waistline on waist with basting. Cut off /s" below basting Iine. when it is hanging straight. 6). 8.SPBCIAL PROBLEDIS IIT AIDJUSTING LDNGTH OI. Take out zinper and side seams. Taeod llern Skirt on a Tlared p. the above pro- 1. Press oPen. Fit strip to lower edge of garment right sides together and baste. + For a skirt.pin front edge oI placket to seam line ind baste firmly. A Concealed Piecing at Top of Skirt will serve to lengthen skirt. Or hem may be rol]. Faeed Hem on a Straight Skirt Cut a straight strip for facing long enough to equal measurement around bottom of skirt and proceed as for Faced Hem On A Flarcd Shirt. 4).[9). The band when finished should be about 5" for a chiid and 7" Ior an adult. and applied again after zipper has been inserted. At front of placket opening.er points. 3. fold seam alIowance 1/g" away from seam line. so that it will lie flat. Turn up edge another /6" and slip stitch (see p. cut bias strips (see p. of a fabric similar to that in dress. Matching centers and side seams. Rip out placket and rip skirt from waist. Turn in top edge of skirt along marking line. clip back seam allowance into seam (Fig. Rip old seams. + For a skirt follow the above procedure. Pin and baste back edge of opening to zipper tape close to metal. Cut off on this line. Mark center back and center front of waist and skirt. 4. proceed as in steps 1 and 2 of Hou To Aher Hents. 9).

In any section a + indicates special recommendations for skirts. C). Choose a suitable pattern and re-cut dress anC new panel from it (Fig. Determine new Iine on other sleeve as above. For a 1" turn-up cuff on a straight sleeve. T r i m h e m t o l / 2 ' . \'\ A _f. as do bold contrasts. dep". 2. pinning this fold. b a s t e "p r e s s . Press carefully. Take out sleeves and remake. Add new skirt in contrasting fabric cut from a commercial pattern chosen to fit in with style of dress (Fig. Pad to yz" thick at center fold. SI. Sleeves S-orn Out at the Dlbow BESIYLING I)ress Too Srnall PROBLDMS Insert contrasting panel in front. Take off old neckline finish. depending on style of dress. if sleeves and shoulders are too hopelesslv out of clate (Fig. E). Take out sleeves.F). D). l. Turn un on l o w e r l i n e . ll). and duII. a. Bind edges.DB\/BS iiloeves Out of l)ate 1.ll. experiment with contrasting fabric to determine the most becoming line). Refit side seams. a neckline which has been stretched may be eased in. Press. Baste. Bright striped jerkins can transform plain dresses (Fis. take out excess in sleeve seam.ain hem. Run a machine stitch close to edge to p"event stretching. * For a skirt. Subtle related colors. Sometimes the skirt of a dress is entirely good and the waist is out of date or vice versa. Apply seam binding to edges and slip stitch (seep. Pin other sleeve the same way and match tn'o sleeves to get correct Iine (Fig. Trim hems to 1". To fit sleeve to arm. baste around turned edge. 2. dark colors tend to decrease size. 1. take off belt across back and folIow the above procedure. a n d finish as before. mark desired finished line with a basting at fold (Fig. Select a pattern with desired neckline. (If skirt is cut off below waistline. b. 49). open up flat. Sew pad to shoulder seam. Skirt of Dress Too Narrow 1. By pulling up this stitching slightly. Tahe off old skirt at waistline. Raise back of sliirt just enough to bring side seams into line (/s" to 3/+"). Cut a 6" square of fabric and fold diagonally. Turn under desired length on one sleeve and pin. allowing fold edge to extend about 3/n" beyond armhole into top of sleeve.i ci' I I I . Make the other half in contrast. 2. e). Cut new line from this pattern. Try on to check for length and evenness (Fig. FoId sleeve in half on searn. Proper sleeve padding is important. Put in recut sleeves. or cut off 3 to 5 inches below waistline. For a pl. Measure and mark aro-und sleeve. Even hemline. FuIl gathered skirts accentuate size. Tahe out back waistline seam and seams of skirt. Match "straight of goods" marking carefully to lengthwise thread of sleeves.Bagginoss at Back ol Skirt of l)ross side NECITLINN Neekline Is Unbecornlng 1. 2.\. Apply suitable finish as suggested in pattern. 1O).ate jackets and skirts are often possible. B). Press out folds. This is esneciallv good on evening dresses (Fig. Add contrasting yoke and sleeves. 1" dolvn frorn this line. press. and recut from desired pattern. and also pinning front and back of armhole seam together. Waist or Skirt of l)ress Out of Date Cut off sleeve just above worn place. graduating to nothing at three points. SIIIBI Most PBOBLEMS skirt problems can be handled in the same manner as dresses. t . 2. Press cuff back on original marliing line. folding garment carefully at center lront and center back before pinning on pattern.

49) front darts and back pleat for a few inches from the top. baste. Or machine stitch binding on hem edge anC blind hem (Fig. Ifow to Line a Coat Linings may be made of silk. At back neckline about one inch below seam allowance. Put coat on. Finish rarv edges by pinking. 3. t2. 10. CutJing 1. Coats-Clarkts <[D threade in correct sizes . How to Shorten Sleeve of Coat f. pin over armhole. 9.-Set lining edge /2" up from sleeve edge and slip stitch to sleeve (Fig. 14. Allorv a little more or less according to width of fabric. Press open. Baste. 9). Cut fabric and make marks to correspond with old lining. Press on wrong side. Turn up lining evcn with hem of sleeve. Hem Finishes 21. Free lining from hem of coat and take out both hems. Fasten linin[ to hem at each seam with French tacks (Fig-. Trim Io 1y2". Before ripping out. hem of facing is trimmed to /an and slip stitched to lower edge of coat. let out wherever necessary. Turn in seam allowance across back shoulder and baste. Turn in seam allowance. easing in fullness to fit. 5. Baste turning. For an average length of coat. Baste around armhole and across shoulder. Sleeve Put sleeve lining in coat sleeve wrong sides together and match nrarking on sleeves to markings at armholes. Trim hem evenly. Pin over armhole and baste. using . 49) across shoulders.) Slip stitch lininq to facing where it was ripped. BlinC hem stitch around entire armhole. Press out folds. 13). 49). Pin. Begin 4" above hem on one side and blind hem stitch lining to front and neckline facings around to 4. Put on coat. the lining is attached at lower edge." frorn hem on other side. see that grain Iine is observed (see p. 2. make a cross stitch to mark (a) where sleeve joins shoulder seam. & P. Lay coat on table and put in lining wrong side to wrong side.. buy. 11. if necessary) and across front shoulder. 49). Turn under seam allowance between the two marlied points at unclerarm. 9. The back pleat is also caught at the waist. 4. Rip lining from facing on inside of coat far enough to allow you to work comfortably. baste. Ease lining up so that it lies flat. in 39" fabric. on to check evenness. or cotton. Eor terolee-Use J. By using the old lining pieces as pattcrns. 5. Determine new hemline in same manner as for dress (see p. To finish lining: Put coat on and pin lining to coat around bottom of coat about 4" above hem. (Do not trim facing on children's clothes. so that it lies flat. Turn up lining even with hem of sleeve. Turn in seam allowance on front. Baste close to fold. Baste lining to sleeve at this point. French tacks are made like buttonhole loops (seep. a n d s l i p s t i t c h ( s e ep . adjust sleeve lining" and pin to lining at several points. tZ). Set Iining edge 1/2" up |rom sleeve edge and slip stitch to sleeve (Fig. This is best done by placing same sides of material togetlrer when cutting. Shrink out excess fullness (see p. If it does. Catch stitch in place (see p. l4). Set lining edge /2" up fi.o"I h". Mark new length on facing also. 2. When cutting. 4. Pin fold edge over front. 2.To Aher Hem ol Coat from step 2 on. (b) about midpoint on back and front of sleeve. The Body of The Coat 12. Blind hem stitch (see p. Match marked point at top of sleeve to shoulder seam. On a coat which you do not expect to lengthen again. Tack seam ro seam from underarm to hip. Pin at underarm seams. Turn up hem of lining one inch shorter than hem of ioat. using a gauge. running a machine stitching close to edge. using long stitches and working on wrong side. Try Press. Fold back in half on length. T'urn up lining even with hem. 49). Rip lining free from fabric at bottom of sleeves and take out any hems. Pin lining to front armhole seam (clipping. rar-on. but a very durable fabric is rayon twill. Ease lining up. Baste lining to sleeve at this point.OOAT PITOBLEMS IIow IIem to Alter the of a Coat 1. about 3" from bottom of sleeve. 4 9 ) . 12). Try on coat. Press. 6. Catch stitch (see p. 3" from bottom of sleeve. Baste and stitch seams of sleeves and body of lining with the exception of the shoulder searns. Fold facing back in place. leaving not more than 2". Try on coat to make sure that Iining does not draw. pin from each side toward center back so that excess fullness becomes a pleat at center back. Pin and baste. 48). 4. t4). Baste lining to coat arounil this line. Rip lining out and press to use as pattern. 7. twice the length ol garment plus about 12 inches for hems.as a guide. 9). Pin and baste to front facings making sure that fabric lies flat and smooth. Blind hem lining separately. coat sleeves to desired length. Be careful to cut opposite sleeves. (d) rvhere dart comes at front shoulder. Do not wait until lining is too badly lvorn since it is necessary to use it as a pattern. Trim to I inch. Turn up hem on coat and facing at new line by folding fabric at pin line and placing pins at right angles to fold (see p. Pin lining to back armhole. . 5. pinning in dart as indicated. 8. seam allowances and center back pleat are provided for. Pin sleeve to lining at several points. (c) corresponding places on armhole. Seam allowances are indicated by stitching lines on old lining. 13. using this portion as a pattern. IJse one side of front and one sleeve (one of each piece if there are two pieces). 3. Finish hem and lining by following directions on Hou. making a 1" hem (Fig. Adjust 3. 6. Turn in seam allowance.om bottom e d g e . and catch stitching in place (see p. On coat of suit.

crepe dress looks trim and business-Iihe At 9 a. . a pair of red gloves and a matching calot or an inch of scarlet flounce peeping out from the bottom of a skirt. It's no trick at aII for a dress to have nine lives. You can give last year's dress a new lease on life. make every costume pay extra dividends with a iittle needle and thread trickery. a necklace and earrings of bright crocheted stars. a gay little hat. Many a woman with a well-deserr-ed reputation for chic has only a few basic costumes on n'hich she has learned to ring endlesschanges./) Clothes may make the woman but nowadays there's no doubt that accessories make the clothes.m.It's good fashion senseand smart dollars and cents to s-t-r-e-t-c-h your wardrobe with a versatile collection of easy-to-make accessories. a new belt. glamorized with a frothy dickey. At 9 p.q\ Y\/ LI el ffi .t. a simple with neat white collar and cuffs.9 rnade n'ith a ferv bits of odd I'arn change a ilress so \-our Lrestfriend i c o u l d n ' t l ' e c ( ) g n i z et . the same dress. a set of salr-agedfrom a bureau drarver or br.rttons u. <\:4 A polka-dotted hat and bag.m. may on occasion wear a fresh-as-paint party face. -e.

It's that easy to do a quick change.BAD{D UP TO IIAI(E YOU PRETTItsB Leff: One Vestee with three jabots that button on.rT. .14.S A tr. .

7C. 5. AC. 6. Resulation Elasric Bottom Dickey. V-Necked Notched Collar.I. 3. Square Collar. Band rn-ith Ruffle. Scalloped Peter Pan Collar. 102. 2. Folded Circle Jabot. 5D 6 Bdgings and Medallions of all kinds to trim any of the collars and dickeys. . I)irections for Dlaktng All Dtckeye and Collars Begin on Noxt Page . Pointed Collar. Bias Band Collar wiih Ruffle. Button-On CoIIar with Crocheted Edging and fnsertion No. Short Dickey. 100. Vest Bottom bi. V-Necked Collar with Crocheted Medallion Trim No.1. BA. lO. Below. Vestee with Three Jabots: A.k"y. 4. 78. 10. B. 88. C. V-Necked Collar with Frilly Crocheted Edging No. Band Bottoml]icl<ev. 7A. Circle Jabot. 101 (top) and 1-03. 9. Rever Collar with Ruffled Edging. 15.

Trim seams to /a". 2 above. Make thread loop (see p. 3 . L) Be C. 2. 2 . 7. 49) entire outer edge and ends of Ruffle. A-Band with Ruffie . Trim seam to /a". 49). Whip edging to outer and lower cdge of B. using a circle the size of a quarrer.23. i3. 1. 1 Back. 49r to fit bulton on Vestee./a" diameter) 1.t. 49) 3/s" wide and 28" Ione. Cut 2 Collar oieces from Pattern No. 23. Stitch Collar pieces together around entire outer edge. Roll hem (see p.14" elastic. 7 on n.2. at 2" intervals (Crochet Directions on p. Cut Vestee from Pattern No. 5. close io slash at center of circle. Trim seams to la". & P. Cfi size. 2. Cut 2 Collar pieces (either rounded or notched according to style desired) from Pattern No. Cut 2 Collar oieces of linen from Pattern No. .19) edges together. To turn around curved end eisily. B-Circle Jabot . 3 A and 1 Ruflle from Pattern No. Polnted Collar (Scraps of fabric) 1. Finish entire edge with ing (see p. t6.tton-On Crocheted sertion-1O. Starting at ends. Accordins to Fig. Stitch Collar pieces together around outer edge. 4. 1' AcC-Folded cording to Fig. . Mark scallops evenly around Collar /s" in Ironr edge. fabric. . Finish neck edge with narrow bias binding of same fabric (see p. 4 8 ) r a w e d g e t o 1 0 " . 6. 5. 6. 22. 4 buttons /s" elastic) l. 23. 49) all around. Face tu'o inch tab at bottom of Jabot. Sew 5 buttons down center front. Vestce with S Jabots Collar With Ddging and In- Q/a yds.23. F o l l o w s t e p s2 a n d 3 u n d e r S q u r r r . Roll hem (see p. dart Circle Jabot . 3. Square Collar bias bind- L-lusrnarroNs oN pAGES14 eNo 15. 49). '19) at top of riglrt center edge of back openins and 2 more at 1" intervals. 2. 23. 3. Fold in half Iengthrvise and trim-ends as in Fig. Ialxic) Collar 6. 7.. uing stitching across center of strip (Fig. Press. Make 4 more buttonholes so that tons of buttonholes are 2" apart (Fig. 3. Follow sten 2 under Iar No. Place second Band piece over first on wrong side and slip stitch (see p. 49) ends and straight edges of Ruffles. 4 orrp. 49). Press open.4 on n. 2 Pointed . 4. Attach buttons to garment. and press /a" all around both Band nieces. (Scraps of linen and organdie) 1. Ilu. Pull stitching up slightly and edge will turn under. run a loose machine stitch around curve close to edge. Stitch two A pieces together around outer edges. arid in between. 48) Band to Ruffle. 6.{ 'T%. 3. Trim seam to 1/a". 5. Match end of Ruffle to end of Band. 2. stitch Ruffles to raw edge of folded bias strip. 49) into place. sloping to 3" wide at other end. Press. Cut 2 Collar nieces from Pattern No. 5. Finish entire outer edge and back opening of Vestee with narrow machine hem. Fold in half lengthwise and overcast (see p. taking r/" seams around edge. Iurn.19). Scalloped CoIlar Peter Pan 8. I cut Jabot. Regulation Dlastic flottom Diekew (1 yd. B-A. Coats-Clark's <GED threarls in correct sizes . Malie worked buttonhole (see o. Repeat with other two. 6-. Roll hem (see p. 49) to fit button on Vestee about /a" from straight end of Band. 3. . G a t h e r ( s e ep . Make worked buttonhole (see p. l. bias bind- 2 Fronts. Sew elastic to sides of Vestee at rvaistline to hold Vestce in place.19) to fit button on Vestee as indicated on pattern. 49). Cut 2 Band nieces from Pattern No. Finish neck edge with ing (see p. . 23. Turn under /a" along each side of opening and slip stitch (see p. 2 cut Jabot. Gather (see p. 48) inner edge of Ruffle to 18". Cut 4 Collar pieces from Pattern No. Cut two pieces for Ruffies each 30" long and 4" wide at one end. baste around turned edge. Ror seraiee-Use. Finish entire outer edge of Jabot. 49) of organdie 2" wide. 2. Cut a bias strip (see p. 3. V-Necked (/2 yd.. Cut 2 pieces from Pattern No. 6-8 on p. 4. Itrn. 4. 49) crocheted insertion to lower edge of A. . Finish neck edge with ing (see p. Cut from doubie fabric (right sides together). through center. 49). baste around turned edge. includinq two ties with iarrow roll hem (see p. fabric. Make 3 more buttonholes so that tops of butlonholes are 2" apart. Turn. leaving a 4" opening on neck edge to turn. Whip (see p. baste around turned edge.)' (Scraps of fabric) 1. 1 on p.tu%ffir6fub l. Bias Band Collar With Rufle (Scrapsof fabric) 1. Cut a bias strip (see p.1 bias bind- (Scraps of fabric) 1. 49) entire outer edge of both B pieces. 2. Match center of Ruffle (on gathering line) to center of Band (at rounded end). 48) to edge of CoIIar under scallops. 7. 4. Too stitch rsee p. Make worked buttonhole (see p. 3. 1 above. ends. 2. l). baste. 4. 2 on p. fitrn Collar right side out through opening. contin. Finish neck edge and connect two collars with a 24"-piece of bias binding (see p. 49) in bias band at center. 3. Sew buitons on left edge to correspond. 3). Collar No. . Make 5 buttonholes (see p. 2. 3-B both on p. Stitch shoulderdarts by bringing Slash dotted lines together. Whip opposite edge of insertion to circular edge of B.9" 3. 5. Press. Pointed Col- l. 3 on p. 3. 8 pearl buttons. 23. Roll hem (see p. 4. . l. 2.

Press. 4 buttons-/2" 9" elastic.N. 2 Facings (Front as far as cut off line) flom No. Repeat the last row until piece measul'es 2 inches in all. 6 . B-C. Follorv steps 2 through 13 untler Regulation Dickcy 8 A abole. ch 5. Malie thread loop (see p. and 6 under Regulation Dichey 8-A above. Baste turncd edgcs flat. 7. 9. lst rnd: Ch 4 (to count a r t r ' \ . Repeat from * across. B-8. Fold bias bancl in half lengthrvise (right side insicle) ancl stitch acloss ends ancl clonn sides for 11".tr9) ends and one side of each Ruffle. Hand roll hem (see p. 49) to outside edge of collar. Place right sides together. Machine back stitch (see p. Ch 7. . t I 1d. 1 snap) L Cut 2 Fronts (cutting off bottom in points as indicated). 4). Make a chain slightly longer than the measurement of the outside edge of collar. 3. 9 Patterns on p. l r f i n i c h / q . dran' dropped loop through. 4) through all thicknesses.N. Cut lrom double fabric ( right side together). Cut a bias band 3" wide x 40" Iong for n a . 49) on front ends of band and sew buttons on back. ch 5. e a m a t e n d o f s t i t c l r i n g . Continue over Collar around neck edge to end of Facing. ch 1. Turn in other edge of banrl 12" and slip stitch (see p. Cl\r in t o . Finish siclcs of Dickey with narrow machine hem. c)r 3. Continue thus joining motifs as 2nd was joined to 1st until piece is desired length. gather (see p.Join Back and Front at pteces ol sides by inserting 4ls" elastic in hems. skip 1 ch.i-^ 2. 48) to 72". 23. s c in. . Short Diekey 3 buttons-tf " size) (1 yd. B Patterns on p. ch 5. i p t r . 8. Join rvith sI st in 1st s c made. l. 2.rrance t end of st. ^ n ' 4 " 't' Q ' " pp r 2. Trim seam to fi". Finished encls of bancl should come to eclge of 1" finished section at center front of neck edge. tr in last loop. 11. 49). 2nd rnd: Ch 1.T r i n r seanrs to lg". s c in .lth ch from hooli. . 5.tr9) to seam arouncl inside of neck. 9. Turn Facing to insicle. 4. 13./2"ar each end free of ruffling. tr in sam. Mark buttonholes (51" Iong and 3" apart) as indicated. ch 2. Ch 5. Insert Front and Back in each band. 8 Patterns on p. size 30. Work as for 1st Motif until 1st rnil is complete. turn.+fl. skip 2 tr. Cut 2 \ V a i s t b a n L lp i e c e s e a c l t 7 " w i J e h 1 12" long. & P. Repeat from * across. Stitch bias binding (see p. 49) to edge of collar. size 50. Slip stitch (see p. drop Ioop from hooli. tr in same place as last tr. on outside of right Front by taking small stitches rvith colored thread. ch 3. press.rsMnncERrzED Cnocrrnr. 3. Follow steps 3 to 10 under RegulationDickeyBAabove. ch 1. Trim neck edge and front seams to 14" . 1 Back. s c in 4th clr from hook. Cut 2 Fronts and 1 Bach (cutting of{ at rvaistline on dotted line as indicatecl). 5. 49) at top of right center edge and trryo more at 2" intervals below. 1. Turn corner at nech edge ancl continue stitching Facing around neck for 1". 2nd MOTIF . Stitch Facings to center Front stitching Facing edges. .hip (see p. Ch 5. Stitch CoIIar pieces together around outer edge. 23.T or J. lst row: S c in 6th ch from l. & P. 7. 2nd rnd: Ch 1.fabric. Join rvith sl st to form ring. tttn to right side and baste turned edges. 11.1clling. s c in 2nrl st of last ch. fabric. Complete rnd as on lnd rnd oI lst Motif (no more join ings). . aB) 3" sections to 2" (Fig. Iland llottorr I)iekeY size) 4. 23. Fasten off. edge to edge. Gather (see p. 12. Vest Bottorn Dickey 3. s c in next ch. Stitch Collar to neck edge (under side of Collar to rigl'rt side of Dickey). 5th row: * S c in next loop. 2 l 1 r _ _ _ _ _i_n b ' .. B Patterns on p. baste turned edges. Stitch (Fig. rnatching centers as shown." l_o i n r r i t l t s l s t in r _o ' _ '_ in 4th st of 1st ch made. 3. 49) along seam across back of necli betrveen Facings. 23. Turn uncler arrd press f!" around all sides of \Vaistband pieces.p. Fold in half lengthwise and mark center. Iabric.nK's O. Cut 4 Collar pieces from Pattern No. tl in last loop. Press. Cut 2 Fronts. 5. IOI-NIotif MATERIALS: Cr-. turn Collar.2" in from sides. Finish neck edge with bias binding. 4. baste turnecl etlge" prcss. cir 5. Malie /s" nachine hem along lorver eclges. Coers Mnn cERrzED nocnBr. 2 Facings (Front as far as cut-off line) from No. cL 7. 10 on p.T or J. S t i t c h o n e f r e e e r i g eo f o p e n i n g i n band arouncl necli edge (right sides together). Stitch a strip to outer edge of one rig'ht and one left rever. ch 1. Finish entire outer edge of Dickey u'ith narrow machine herl. baste around turned eclge. Join Back and Flont at sides rvith 4'/2" pieces of elastic. s c i n n e r l t r ' . 2nd to 4th rows incl: * S c in next loop. 14. 9. Co. Whip (see p. 7 btttons-|2" Uz yd. rst MOTIF . lO. 49) bias binding dorvn across back of neck SliP stitch Facing to shoulcler seam. s c in same place as sl st. Selv buttons on left center edge to correspond. Serv buttons on left Front to corresponcl to buttonholes. 2 Facings r Flont as lar as cut off line) from No. Ieaving 1. 8. Repeat from * across to within last loop. Place right sides of other two Collar pieces against ruffling just stitclred.l7- . turn. IOO-Frill. sliip 2 tr" tr in next tr.rook. s c in same place as sl st.r. 2 Facings (Front as far as cut-off line) and 2 Coliars lrom No. Follorvsteps 11 to 1j underRegulation Dickey 8-A above. s l i .lth ch lrom hook" clr 1. Cut buttonholes through both thiclinesses and finish with buttonhole stitch (seep.A. Ch 9. s c in 4th ch from hook. 2 balls.' place as last tr. ending rvith ch 'tr. Crochet abbrevlationsr page 5O .Col]ars. turn. Nllake 2 buttonholes (see p. 1 Back. Stitch logether on previour stitching line. insert hook in center p on a corner of 1st Motif. 3. Baste aII around bancl.R o p e a t 2 from * around. 6.* ch 5. Fasten off. Press. 2. I Rountl Collars.J. Starch lightly" press and w.1 ball C Steel croclrct Hook No. adding 1 ch in each loop every other row. Stitch on /2" gathering line. 3.. Stitch Fronts to Back along shoulders. 4. Cut l straight strips each 2" wide and 36" l^-^ +^. (Cont'd on Page22) Collar Ddging Edging size. 48) inner (sloping) and shoulder eclges of Facings. * ch 5. a 4. Trim this searn to /a"" turn Facing to inside. 2. Clip seam all. SteeL croclrct Hook No. Rever Ilufled Collar Edging l!}-ith (Scraps of fabric) 1. 10. c h l . 23. Follow steps 2. 12. Try on Dickev and if necessary talie trvo small ilarts at rvaistline in Fronts for better fit. On l'r'onts. Turn. but ch 7 to turn at end of 4th rorv. Fasten off.tr in next tr. Stitch Facings to center Front and lorver pointed edges.1MATERIALS: Cr-anx's O.

LOOKING LII(ru LOOKING LII(ru : A FASHION PHOTO FASHION PHOTO 13 qrM 12. 15.. 13. FBLT AITIIYOU. l7 t5 . 14. Fabric CoveredCrinoline Sailor.A BALL OF YARN A SOBAP OI. Knotted Capand Drawstring Bag.. Bow Calot with Back Ruffle and Matching Bag. Fabric CoveredCrinoiine Calot.

I)iroctions Begin For Nl:rkingi All trIats On Next Page 2l 22 20 23 . Triple Thread Snood. 2!|. 19. Frill Pompadour Hat. Closed Crorvn Single Crochet Calot. . 21. 19. Popcorn Calot."'' 16. Made Over Visor Cap. Lacy Crochet Brimmed Sailor and Crochet Trimmed Collar. Open Crown Double Crochet Calot. Crochet Trimmed Felt Hat. lB. 17. 22. 20.

make small slashes aII around circular edge. Fig. /s" belting ribbon. t/s yd. add 2". Starting at center back inside of hat olace stretched edse l/16" Irom lower edge. Trim edge to /a". Shape with heated iron by stretching one edge with point of iron. Turn under end /a" and catch to under piece of ribbon. 49). add 1". 1 for marking frame. Fit outer edge as in Fig. Overhand stitch (see p. *"urrli" Cut true bias strio to these dimensions. 5-Trim to /s" . l2-Place square on underside of brim. crinoline. Continue basting to outer edge. Press. Ilr-usrne'rroNs oN pAGES 18 AND 19. Pin around too edge. foliowing grain of crinoline. Fig.19). From center point measure /2 width of crown. Cut square of fabric to this dimension. 11.Tt. Fit to inside of crown and finish as in Fig. /6" below edge. /a yd. Slip siitch (seep. At sides. 6. Pin all around edge. "t. 3-Hold fabric taut and smooth. Baste and back stitch (see p. measure around widest part of hat. 4--Divide length of strip in half. Cut around circle /2" to inside. Pin and baste all around. Turn under so that finished edge is exactly on brim edge. Hold fabric taut and smooth. Cut true bias strip to these dimensions (see Fig. Baste. 13-At sides measure around widest oart of hat. add 3". Join points to make a circle. For width meaiure deepest part of side. . Pin 1/a" apart. & P. 10. No. to each side of center measure off /2 length o{ crown. t/2. SIip stitch (see p.center of length to center front and place turned edge. Turn unde-r one lengthwise edge /2" . Iabric. 49) to crown. Stretch fabric to lie taut. Add 4". l-Mark center of length of crown. add 2". Iabric. Mark true bias on s0uares. Match guide lines. 48) to sides of crown. right side out. top and bottom edges Fig. Measure length of hat brim. Coats-Clark's <trE> threads in corroct slzec . Back stitch. To fit fabric around crown. Baste. Match bias line to guide line on brim. 3/a yd.' belting iibbon. Overhand stitch (see p. Match and pin center to center Iront of frame iith top edge 1" above crown edge. all along length. Trim outer edge to /a". 32. Hold fabric taut and smooth. Slash fabric covering up crown. 5.!9). Fig. Measurements for center strip: Take Iength of crorvn from back to lront through center. &-Turn hat upside down. Mark true bias (see p. add 3". Apply sweatband as in Fig. For width deepest part of side. l3-Calot (1 crinoline calot frame.". fabric. Baste and back stitch (see p. Fig. P. Finish top edge as in Fig. Turn to underside of brim. '1. Match. Measure length of crown. 1/e" below edge. Match center line oI . Fig. Pin around top edge.TrururlM I l-Pillbox (See photo on p. 50). Trim as desired. /s yd. Baste. 1l-At outer edge of brim gently stretch fabric taut and smooth. Fig. right side up. Mark. 2-Measure length and width of crown. right side out. 2) (1 crinoline pillbox frame. Trim edge to /a". j7a yd. /+ vd.4e). turn under edge of one end on diagonal line. add 3". 9-On one square find center of bias line. for too piece. Pin all around ton and bottom of side. To finish back. Cut two squares of fabric to this dimension. Finish back ends as in-Fig. 6-Making Sueatband-Dampen belting. Fig. over stitching line at bottom of crown.) Fig. Width is 4". Pin.-. Turn bottom edge to wrong side.20.fabric to center line of hat. On line.) See Fig. . /g yd. Fig. r0-Slip fabric over crown. I2-Sailor (1 crinoline sailor frame. add 3". Fig. %" belting ribbon. Mark.] See Fig. Baste. 1 for marking frame.rl\ \ "t:. Bor scrt:ice-Use J. Fig. 48) to sides of crown. Trim excess to. Cut rectangle of fabric to these dimensions. 7-Match and pin bias line to center line of crown.rrn:uLndertop raw edge. .r. Blind tack at several ooints around. /a.

Baste and press. Pin. Mark. Turn. 'lE) cer*er piece to two sides.eces from Pa'ttern No. Fit covering on frame. heavy musLin. 49.%" belting ribbon. 5. Press seam up. /s yd'. Top stitch (see p.23. l8-Mark center and measure Bring 5" 5" to each side. side. Using these as patterns cut two pieces of fabric from each piece of muslin. Place muslin Band ^alongon toD. B on straight. one 4" x 8/s" Ior Band. 49) ends of Band to Iower part of FIap where side edges meer. Baste. Tack Bow piece together making 2 loops and 2 ends. Cut 2 pieces from Pattern No. Press. Do same with other two fabric pieces for Bag. 3. fabric." hem around lower edge. 6. Fold Bow (9" x measure 4/s" x 24". Edge stitch. Insert Band /2" in 7le" opening of Calot. Stttch 6" ends. 138 on p. Stitch all three niece together end-s and one long side. Slip stitch Calot to Band.48) raw edges to 712". Turn up again (to outside) on this line. Place 2 fabric Band pieces (3" x 10") right sides together. Place crinoline strip on top. 15 on p. Press. 3 skeins J. Cutting edges on straight of gooils. 1" of fabric to extend over Allow Iower edge. Insert other side of Bag between FIap pieces in same manner. Gather each side of top to 9". OW a rectangle 72" x 22" for Ruffle. 15:-Cut Iabric 12" x 12".(see p. Tack. place side piece to center piece with curved edge of side fitted to center piece. right side out. Stitch 2 fabric pieces for Bag (71k" 14") together along ends and " one side. Baste. 23. Sew trimrning in desired position.. trimming cut two strips Fig. Make 2 calots of 5 sections each. Pin all around. 3. Also saddle stitch 4. . 7. 2. Repeat on other side. 49) other edge to seam line on wrong side. Trim seam to L/a. l3A-Sirnilar Calet frorn Fattorn Made 7. 7. Trirn excess Io 12".ufle with Baek Calot Beg and Matehtng sides of triangle on a Fig. /s yd. 24") piece to Stitch one end around turned open end. Press seams open. 23. Start at tip and stitch down each section.T:urn to right edges. Divide in half on trrre bias line. Place one calot insiile the other. At sides on lower edge of calot divide distance of uncovere-d section in half. On edges turn under both lengthwise /4". 16-Trim line with center bias strip. turn under /a" and slip stitch. Turn under t/a" trerr1. Whip (see p. Turn in /s" at stitch together.T. a straight square of Fig. allowing 1/s" seam allowance. . Press. SIip 5. 18). one rectangle 5/s" x 10" for Flap. 14 on p. Press. yd. SIip stitch Gee p.Cut on true bias (see p. 2t. cut from heavy muslin: 2 rectangles 7/2" x 74" Ior Bag.) Cut 1 oiece from Pattern No.. Pin all around bottom edge as in Fig." searn). Turn. leaving a 4" opening along one side to turn. l5-Knetted I)rawstring Cap and Bag (12/a yds. rows on Band. and two 5" circles.) Calot 1. 6. right sides together. tabric. baste edges. and one 9" x 24" for Bow. Turn through opening. Six Strand Embroidery FIoss. /4 yd. Cut 10 pj. and along each side of each seam of Caloi (see photo on p. Turn. heavy muslin. crinoline. Apply sweatband as in Fie. (cont'd ofl pdge 22) 6. /s yd. l4-Match to center line of hat.N. center line of fabric Fig. fabric. & P. Fold under /2" all around Band @" x 8%") piece. 4. Remove from shaPe. ls" ribl:on belting. Make a 10" looo on each side in same manner. Flap 3/a 0'z yd. 4. 18). Top stitch one edge of Band to Ruffle. Repeat step 3 above with pteces (5/2" x 10"). at bases of triangles. Baste around turned edge. /2" ribbon belting. Baste around turned Turn under /s" along both open edges of Band. Fig. Turn. Turn lower edge up (on outside) to meet stitching line of hem. 3 bone hooks and eyes. markings together and gather tightly throush both thicknesses. Cut A on bias. edges to /s" gathering line on Bag. Gently stretch and mold strip to fit shape. Ba8 1. Gather (see p. 3. Tack to center front of Calot. 2 rows around Ruffle. Cut same from crinoline. Sew on fastenings. Place two fabric strips right sides together.[9). and with muslin pieces for Bag. Stitch two pieces together around edge. l7-For of fabric and one of crinoline each 39" long x 4" wide. Pin at front and back edges. Stitch (/a. Saddle stitch around edge of Bow (2 rows). Apply sweatband as in Fig. Turn up a 4. Apply sweatband as in Tig. Slip stitch (see p. (See photo on p. Insert one side of Bas between Band pieces. and side. On opening (1 yd. Press open. Place muslin Bag between two fabric Bags and baste all three together around open edge. Turn. Mark. 2. Match marking to marking on uncovered side. /a yd'. 6. 8. Turn to wrong side. Stitch around lower edge leaving 7/s" open at center back to insert Ruffle. Pirr. 6. Divide largest side of each triangle (bias edge) in haif and mark. 9. SIip side piece under center bias piece. Press. Tack in place. Stitch by machine. Saddle stitch around Flan and Band (2 rows). Mark lengthwise center with basting. 5. Slip stitch ends together. l9-With right sides together. Stitch (/+" searn) all three together.. Baste. shaping ends as shown. Fig. @ l4-Bow R. Gather tightly -21. 5. Baste. Coats or Clark's O. 13A on D. one rectangle 3" x 70" for Band. Fold Ruffle (12" x 22") piece in half to measure 6" x 22". 4. Cut two oieces from Pattern No. Press. 49). 2. Ieaving 11/2" side open.) cap 1. 8.

4. SI st in next free ch-Z loop on 1st Center. ch 1. Repeat from * 2 more times. Repeat from * 4 more times. in ch-3 sp make d c. s c. ch 2 and 3 s c. Blind stitch three medallions on each side of collar. & P. turn. d c in next d c. thread over and draw through all loops on hook (3 tr clusler). . stuff with scraps. cut strip 32" x 2". Next rnd: SI st to next ch-2 loop. ch-3 loops. . Coars MnncERrzEDCnocnrr. sl st in any ch-2 loop of 1st Center. size 10. ch 4. Make 5 more motifs same as this. Join.l loops made). Steel crochet hooh No. 3 tr cluster) twice. Cut a 7" circle of cardboard. 15. ch 1" sl st in anv ch-2 Ioop of 2nd Center. Insert in casing and trim ends with pompons made from 4" circles (see step 7 under Cap above). s c in next s c. ch 4. ch 4 and tr. Turn. Work as for lst Center until 2nd rnd is complete. tr in next free ch-2 loop on middle Center. d c in next d c. HAT Starting at inner edge of Brim. . 2nd row: S c in next loop * (ch 3. turn. d c and ch 4) * d c in ring.T or J. . Place both together and seam 16" ends (4 thicknesses) together. Repeat from Fasten off. Ch 6. Repeat the last round until brim measures 2/s inches wide. Repeat from * across. . Steel crochet hook No. (ch 6. size 50. Join with sl st to form ring. ch 2. lst rnd: Ch 3. d c innext d c. s c in ling. 4 sc in next ch-4 loop. s c in same sn. * Skip 3 ch. d c in next ch. fold in half. Bag 1. + ch 2. ch 2 and 3 s c. Repeat from + acr:oss. Join and fasten off. * ch 5. page 50 . 3 d c. thread over and draw through aII loops on hook. ch 4. 2 h d c. overhand (see p. ch 5.N. ch 7. in next free loop on Znd Center make tr. Cr-ann's O. d c. ch 1. . In each of next 5 l.T or J. size 30. 8th row: S c in 1st s c. place cardboard between. 4th row: S c in next loop. Repeat from * across. holding back iast loop of each tr on hook make 2 tr in same sp. skip 1 ch. s c in same sn. (. sI st i. thread over ancl draw through all loops on hook (2 tr cluster). c in 7th ch from hoo[ ch 3. d. Repeat from * around. 3rd row: S c in next loop. Attach to ends of tails. Tack to shirrinq. 3 i c in same loop on 3rd Center. si in next d c) 5 times. in next ch-i loop make tr. in next loop make 3 s c. MOTIF . Sl st in 1st s c made. make a chain /2 inch longer than the headsize of Crorvn. 2 d c in sI st holding back on hook the last loop of each d c. l6-Lacy Crochet Ilrimrned Sailor and Croehet Trimrned Collar MATERIALS FOR CROCHET: Cr-ann's O. holding back Iast loop of each tr on hook make 3 tr in next sp. * ch 4 and make i cluster in 4th ch from hooli. a ch 7.22. Turn under 1/2" aro. Repeat from * 5 more times. d c in next ch. Tie tails in knot. Dlodallion * around. s c in Sth ch from hook. s c in next ch" (ch 3.n same place as last d c was made. 7th row: S c in 1st s c. h d c. d c in next d c. (ch 7. . ch 3. cluster between next 2 ciusters.ops make 3 s c. ch 2 and 3 s c. turn. ch'tr. d c in next d c) 5 times. d c in next d c.N. Fasten 6ff. h d c and s c. h d c.. Machine stitch. * ch 2. ch 1 to Iasten 1a cluster made). Join with sl st to 1st st of ch-3 first made. rst CENTER .1 balL. Repeat from * 2 more times. * ch 10. ch 5. turn. 10 or 11. Turn. d c in next d c. Repeat from * 2 more times.l ch. Repeat from * across. ch 6. Run a row of machine stitching through center of one hem to make a casing. s c in sarnr place as last sI st. Next rnd: Sl st in each st to within 1st 2 clusters. Ch 4. . INSERTION Startins at short end" ch 10. turn. 3 s c in same loop on 3rd Center.1 ball. d c in next ch. Ch 4. skip 1 ch.N. ch 5. tr in next loop. ch 2. 49) around 5" circles. & P. fasten. 3rd rnd: SI st across to next ch-1 sp. s c in next s c. ch 4 and tr) 6 times.Fasten off. s c in next ch) 4 times. Repeat from + around. 3rd rnd: In next loop malie 3 s c. ch 2 and d c. 2nd rnd: Sl sl in next ch-2 sp" ch 4. 11. ship 3 ch. 12. Ch 4. in next ch-2 sp make d c. sc in next loop. s c in next d c (in next sp make s c. s c in next loop) 3 times. 4th rnd: In each ch-10 sp make s c. Join with sl st to form a ring being careful not to twist chain. 3rd CENTER . s c in next loop. 49) edges together. lst row: S c in 5th ch from hook. 2 h d c ands c. SI st in 1st s c. in next ch-Z loop make tr. ship 3 d c. ch 4 and tr) 3 times. (ch 3. s] st in top of joining 2 tr cluster. Ch 4" 2 d c in 4th ch from hook holding back the last loop of each d c on hook and finish as for a cluster. ch 4. Cut rectangle 16" x 26" from both fabric and muslin. 6th row: S c in 1st sc. 3 d c. lst rnd: Ch 7 (to count as . turn.. Ch 4. clt 6. Repeat from * around joining last ch-10 with sI st to 1st s c. s c in next ch) 3 times. * ch 77. roII hem (see n. Make a iunning stitch close to edge. ch 1. ch 1.3 d c in next sp. 2.T or J. ch 6. lO4-Bdging MATERIALS.$ d c.1 ball. ch 4 and tr) 6 times. (ch 7. lst rnd: Ch 3.I White Coll:rr Class (cont'd lrom Page 17) Dlodalllon lO2-Collar MATERIALS: Cr-ann's O. 49) to side ilong line of hem.4 sc in next loop. ending with 4. ch l. and Insertion Smarl Headrvork (cont'd lrom page 27) 7. ch 4. * 8 sc in next ch-Z loop. stitch 32" sides together.8 or 9. 3. Repeat from * across. p. ch Z.und edges of both circles. To make pompons. Ch 1. s c in next ch) twice. Cut 8" circles of fabric and of lining. Crochet abbnoviations. (ch 7.N. Hereafter work is clone in rows. 11 d c in next sp. Repeat the last row lor Iength desired. Steel crochet hook No. . s c in next ch-3 loop. Ch 4. s c in next s c. & P. turn. Blind stitch three medallions on each side of collar as shown in nhotograph ZB. ch 1.T or J. * ch 3. Join rvith sI st to form ring. Ch 1. Same as 1st 2nd CENTER Center. Open side seam between stitchings to insert tie. h d c. 8. * (ch4" (cont'd on page 24) I . s c in next ch-1 sp. EDGING Malie a chain the Iensth desired.s cbetween2clusters.. ch 3.Steel crochet hook No. Repcal from ' around ending rvith ch 7. s c in ring. 3 d c in next sp. Repeat from " around. 3 s c in next loop. turn. Coers MencERrzEDCnocrrnr" size 30. s c in next ch-1 sp. Ch 1. cbZ. Ch 6. To make tie. Join last ch-4 to 3rd st of 1st ch made. sliip 1 ch. thread over and draw through aII loops on hook. pull thread tight. Turn up hem for cuff. Colrs MnncEnrzEDCnocrrnr. . Following rnd: 4. * ch 3 (s c in next loop) twice. Make 2" hems at both ends of piece. Insert circle in bottom of bag and overhand lsee p. Join. sl st in top of 1st cluster. lO3-Collar MATERIALS: Cr-anx's O. ch 2. Coars MnncERrzEDCnocunr. ' ch 2. 2nd rnd: SI st in each ch and between lst 2 clusters. sliip 2 ch of ch-6 loop. in same loop make a 2 tr cluster. ch 3 and d c: ch 5. s c between same 2 clusters. 5th row: With wrong side facing sl st to next ch-1 sp" ch-l. 3rd rnd: + In next loop make 3 s c. 2 d c in next ch holding back the Iast loop of each d c on hook.8 balls of White. lst row: S c in 5th ch from hook. 2nd row: * S c in next loop. (ch 3. & P. s c in ch-3 loop. sliip. * ch 6. Repeat from * 2 rnore umes. tch 3. 2nd rnd: In each ch-4 sp make s c. s c in next ch-3 loop. d c in next d c. in next loop make tr. d c.

|\ frffiffit JT. e.|FF 1a\9 . transfer diagrams as shown to large paper marked with 1" squares. One small square : one 1" square. COLLAR.PATTDRITS for DICKBYS. .S and HATS To make patterns actual size. t I .bh t..

s c between next 2 clusters. Starch if desired. Fasten off. s c in nex[ loop) 1 [ times. & P. 2nd. ch 1 and tr. 3rd roi: * S c in next loop. ch 4. cluster in 4. ch 2.r. 2nd. Repeat from * across. Join. andblind'irem . ch 1 and tr. Coers KNrr-CRo-Suppv batt of ary col. To begin ch 18 to measure 4 inches.' I r o o k . Repeat the last row until piece measures 2/a tnches. Ch d1 to measure 12 inches. 4th rnd: 5l st in nexl ch-2 sp. . * ch 2 in next ch-Z sp make pc st. Join with sl st to 1st ch made. ("1loop decreased). I Pornpadour Eat Steel Crochet Hooh No. Repeat from . Join. times. Ch 1. same place as sI st. Next row: Work as ior last row to within last loop. cut off brim. . Sew foundation chain to edge of V-necked collar No.r. turn. . Repeat from * around. cover as on p.s c.20. d c in next g ch. No. alli*ing lor Iuilness at corner. ch 6. ch . * ch 2. Fasten off. (ch . + ch 4. Re_ move. 12. Turn as beJore. d c in each d c around. Sew each end of Frill to snood behind beginning and end of $l:Srly Frill keeping short sideJ flat. beginning of previous row. l2th row: 15 c in next loop.. ch 4. cluster in 4th ch from hook) twicel lurn. pc st .. Join. Ch 4. 2o-Open Croehet MATERIALS: J.. Turn inside edse of crocheted brim up /2'. d c innext T cin.. (ch 4. Re_ peat Irom * to end of rnd" with an s c.turn. d c in next 4 d c. pc st in same place as sl st. ch 3. Continue in this manner. un_ til circumference of hat measures 20 Crown Calot Double Casein Crochet Hook No.di. 3 Thread Snood chain keeping work flat. * ch 4. d tr in 1ait loop. R e p e a t_ [ r o m " t o c o r _ respondrng posttron at opposite side of Frill. p c s t i n n e x t c h . cluster in next ch. . i n s e r ti t i n c h p r e c e d i n g 5 d c and draw dropped loop thriugir. . Repeat the last 2 rnds alternately. 2 s p " . Calot Casein crochet hook No. 2nd row: t fn next ch_1 sp make tr.Crocheted Brirn & CoIIar (Cont'd from page 22) cluster in 4th ch from hook) twice. Repeat from ' to end of round. turn.24Crochet ebbrevlations.in same c h .W o r k s t r a i g h t r c h .1. 16). I7-Triple MATERIALS: J. being careful not to twist chain. * ch 4. (ch 2. turn. in next . ch 4 and s c. (ch 4. balls of any color. page dO . Join and fasten off.. (ch . ch 2 and pc st (an inc). Repeat lrom * across. the last rnd. mak_ ing 3 loops (instead of 2 loops) at -tower corner.4 115 pc sts). .th ch from hook) twice. turn. 9 l o o p s t l o r 13 rows.e is noi done in rows instead of rnds."r1:"9. 14th to lSth rows incl: * S c in next looo" ch 4. s c in same loop as last s c) twice.. s c between next 2 clusters. Repeat from . but do not have increases fall over those of previous increase round. Repeat from * across (16 ioops). ch 1.lth ch from hook. ending with an s c. Ch 4. ch 4 and s c) 9 times. s c.rong side of bfim /2 lncn rn trom edge. lst row: * Make a cluster in 4th ch from hook. ch 4. Ch g. turn. (Jse double thread throughout. R e p e a tf r o m * around (15 pc sts). 6. joining last ch-2 to top of starting clr. in next loop make s c. Repeat from + across. z ball of any color. Repeat from * across. Starting at top malie a chain 72/g rnches long (8/2 ch sts to 1 inch). s c i n n e x t l o o p . Repeat from * across. Attach a triple strand of thread ind work a row of s c closely across foundation Ch 3. s c in next loop. times. 1 1 inches of round elastic.2 s p . skip 2 ch. outer edge oI collai. s c rn next loop. lst row: S c in 6th ch from hook.l) 4.1. D o n o t l u r n a t e n d o f 1 g 1 hr o w but work in rounds as follows. buy crinoline sailoi frime in desired shape. 2nd row: * S c in next loop. Coars KNrI-CRo-SrrEEN? 2 balls ol any color. Coers KNrr-Cno-SnrnN. Fasten off_ Weave in all loose ends and fasten them securely.. Join. s c. s. in next loop make s c. 13th row: {S c in nexl loop. F a s l e n o F f . to position ar opposite "9. J o i n w i t h s l s t to 3rd ch of ch-3 first made. ch 4 and s c) 10 times.9:. * 2d c in next ch (1 d c increased). l9-Frill MATERIALS: J. in next loop make s c. ch 4. turn (a loop decreased at end of row). s c in nexl loop. * in first half of ioop make tr. Cover a piece of mil. 7 (directions on p. Ch 5. lst row: S c in 5th. o p . Join and fasten off. ch 3. Repeat from * around.t 29 times. lst rndl Ch 3. to inside of crown.1na position on opposite side of Frill. s c in next ch. IJse 3 strands throughout. Ch 5. ch 4. 2nd rnd: (Ch 4.*rl:9. R e p e a tf r o m . in second half of loop . s c. Coers KNII-CRo-SHEEN. thread 1i strands) to gth loop at beginning-of previous rnd ' ch . Repeat from * aiound. Repeat from i across to pin mark at other side. Repeat from * across. t u r n . & P. to tOth loop al. ch 4. center pin. ch 4. ch 3 and make a pc st in same sp.inery wire wi[h grosgrain ribbon and strtch to \a. ch 4. c h l . ch 1. . 3rd rnd: Ci 3. skip 3 ch. lst row: Find center of foundation chain and mark with a pin. Start_ ing at tip of Crown. s c in next ch) 4. * to . * 2 d c in next d c. cluster in 4th ch from hookj twice. then work_ ing over elastic in order to conceal it make 2 s c in each loop around to where thread was attacled. . Repeat from * across. Work without increasing until piece measures 6 inches frori tip of Crown.3 r dr o w : A t _ tach thread (3-slrands. StarclL firm [y. lst rnd: Ch 3. ch 3. 3rd iow: 2 s c in each ch-1 sp across. a r o u n d . 5th rnd: SI st in ch-2 sp. Repeat the last row until 6 loops remairi. IJse a triple thread throughout. skip 2 ch. Join with sl st to form a ring. COLLAR EDGING Make a chain stightly longer than the. to llth rows incl: * S c in next loop. around.. Repeat from. Fasten off. Join-to 3rd ch of ch-3. turn. ch 4. s c in same loop as last s c-7 loop increasefl_ {ch 4. 2nd row: At_ tach thread r3^slrands) 10 15rh Ioop at beginning of previous row.ch from hook. cluster at tip of next 2 clusters. ch 4 and s c. Ch 4. & P.l.* c h 2 . turn. Sew one end of elastic to each end of foundation chain securely.-pc st in next st. Steel crochet hook No. tst rnd: (Ch 4. clt 4.toop make s c..7. ch 5. pc st in same sp-. ch 4. Attach thread (3 strands) to loop at one pin mark and ch 5. ch 41 3 times.. cluster in . * (Ch 4. increasing . 3rd rnd: Ch 4. 14 d c in ring. make (tr. ch 4. lst row: Attach. Measure off 3a/a inches on each side of pin and mark with pins. make d. . Join. 2nd rowr S c between 1st 2 clusters. a ch 4. . I8-Popcorn MATERIALS: J. Next row: S c between 1st 2 clusters.i.. For crown. s c in same place as last d c of cluster. & P. Fasten off. placing full_ ness aI colner. Ch 3.1"9_ s i d e o f F r i l l . s c. 2nd rnd: Ch 3. 2. d c in next 8 d c.Repeat wherer-er necessary to keep lvork flai untrl prece measures 6/2 inche: in diameter. Repeat from * across. turn (another loop decreased).c in next loop. Join and fasten off. 6. FRILL . sl st between same 2 clusters.p c s t i n n e x t d c . FRILL . ch 1) twice and tr. I-[ desired starc]L Irghtly or sliffen wirlr millinery sizing. Repeai from * around. pull into shape and Iay aside to dry thoroughly. Vork "r.on other side of s c. * ch 3. Divide the thread into 3 equal balls. rnd: Ch 4_ pc st in same place as sl st rto make a pc st ch i. turn. always making 1 ch more in each Ioop on each row until there are 9 ch in each l o . remove ? l.

ch 2 and d c. in next sp work d c. Extend ends of Frill as far as possible on either side and sew to ealot. ch 3. 3rd rnd: SI st in next d c. 8th rnd: S c in loop. Ch 4. join with sl st to form a rinE. ch 3. ch 1. s c in next loop. Allow to drv. NotJ: Crochet is worked with double strand of thread throushout. * ch 4. lst rnd: 8 s c in Znd ch from hook. leaving about /s lnch on which to sew crocheted crown.25. tr in same ch. Measure off 5 inches on each side of center pin and mark. * (ch 5. Reoeat from * around. in next sp work tr. & P. 4th and 5th rows: Tr in 1st sp. Fasten off. Repeat from * around endirrg with ch 3. * ch 1. tr in next sp. 2nd and 3rd rows: Tr in next ch-1 sp. FRILL . Reneat from * around. lst row: Tr in 6th ch from hook. balls ol any color. Holes are made about every /2 inch apart and about l/e inch in from edge. u. Join with sl st. Do not join rnds. ch 2. sl st in lst s c. in next sp work d c. ch 3. Place felt brim on head" then trv on crown and see if crown is deeo enough to meet edge of felt. turn. long s c in next hole. Fasten off. Repeat from * around. 3rd rnd: S c in each s c around. 2nd and 3rd rnds: S c in loop. Repeat from * around ending with chL. + 2 s c in next s c. (If a larger headsize is desired make a few more increase rnds. It is advisable to have a sharp sewing needle on hand to make holes in felt. 7th rnd:. ch 3. Repeat from * across. (If larger headsize is desired :r. Be very careful not to enlarge Crochet abbrevlations. ch 5. Repeat from * across. 28-Made-Over MATERIALS: Crranwrcr's RBn Hr. With an embroidery stiletto or sharp pointed scissors pierce holes l/a inch apart and /a inch in from edge. * (d c. d c in next ch-3 sp. s c in next ch-3 sp) twice. Place flowers over joining of rouuds and sew securely in place. Ch 73. s c in loop) 5 times. s c between next 2 tr. d c in 1st s c. Remove pins on Crown. Work s c in each hole all around back of cap and peak. low worli as follows: lst rnd: S c in each s c around.. d c in 1st s c made. turn. With single thread make a chain 13 inches long. (ch 5. Repeat from * arounil ending with ch 1. il st in 1st s c. * ch 5. d c in next ch-3 sp. . Join. Repeat from * around.qo \Monsmo. all along edge of peak and around edge of back of Crown being careful not to tear cap. Fasten off. 6th rnd: Repeat 9nd round. Edging is worked directly around edge of felt brim. * ch 5. d c in joining tr. then lay flat on ironing board and press with hot iron through damo cloth. EDGING . 2nd rnd: * S c in next 8 s c. Ch 1. d c in s c. tr in next ch. 2 s c in next s c. ending as before. * ch 3. Following rnd: Work sl st in each s c of last rnd. . Measure 2/s inches Ior depth of Crown at front and marl< with a pin.. . if necessary.) Work without increasing until piece measures 5/2 inches Irom tip of Crown. ch 2 and d c. turn. d. s c in next loop.1 ball of any color. ch 3. skip 1 ch. 5th rnd: S c in-each s c around. Starch Frill very stiff and press. With CROCHETED double strand of thread. tr in d c. With right side of cap facing attach yarn in any hole at back of cap. . Also. ch 3 and d c. + ch 3. A large brimm. 1st rnd: S c in ring. . sl st in top of starting ch-3. 7. 2l-Closed Croehct MATERIALS: J. Join and fasten off.j:eches. ch 3. and next 2 d c. excepting the center front pin. ch 3. 10th rnd: SI st in d c. (ch 5. Place inner edge of peak inside Crown matching center front pins. If noi. CROVN . * ch 3. 1 inch up from edge. Steel Crochet Hook No. Coars KNrI-CRo-SHEEN. Ch 5. sl st in top of starting ch-3.lnr KNrrrrr. * ch 3. Visor Cap J. Sew peak in place. . s c in next 2 d c. ch 5. ch 2 and d c in next loop) twice. . Cut away crown of hat. Repeat from * around endins with d c in 1st s c. Number of holes must be a multiole of 6. ch 2. Repeat the last rnd. ch 3 and d c in same place as joining tr. 6th rnd: Sl st in sp.alie a few more increases. in next sp worh d c. Place pins on a straight line from the marked points to outer edge of brim. Clean brim. ch 2 and tr. s c in d c. Steel crochet hook No. d c in s c. 9 s c in next s c. One old "Pork Pie" hat. Measure 4 inches for depth of Crown at back and mark. Repeat from * around ending with ch 2. repeat the 12th rnd to desired depth. d c in 1st s c (18 loops). Ch 2. Join round and work a sI st in each d c around. Repeat from * around ending with ch 3. 6th row: + S c in next sp. 9th rnd: SI st in1p. Repeat from i around ending with ch 2. 1 baII (1 oz. ch 2. * ch 1. d c in next d c. d c in same place as last d c. Divide ball of thread into 2 parts. Sew crocheted crown in place sev'r'ing crown over edge of felt brim. d c in next tr. Repeat from * around ending with sl st in 1st s c. Reoeat from * around ending with s c in d c. turn.D cin 4'th ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1. Join and fasten off. 4th rnd: S c in loop. page 50 . ch 4. s c between the 2 tr. ch 2. tr in 1st s c of 4th rnd. 2nd rnd: S c in loop. ch 2 and d c. 2 ch.ed feb hat. S c in loop. Repeat from + around. Coars KNrr-Cno-SnnnN. work d c. in next s c work d c. ch 1. TIES (Make 2) . d c in next sp. 2nd rnd: 2 s c in each s c around. s c in next sp. Fasten off. + d c in next d c. * tr in next 2 ch-3 sps. Block edging.l inch depth at back.) Work without increasing until piece measrres 3/a inches from starting chain. Jorn and tasten ott. s c between next 2 s c. c in 1st s c. s c in next loop. Repeat from * around ending with ch 3. tr in next sp. Starting at tip of Crown. Tie in a bow at center front. ch 3. tr in s c. 22-Crochct Hat MATERIALS: Trimmed Felt 2 Crown Calot Slngle head opening. Repeat from * across. Steel crochet hook No. Pleat Frill to measure 5 inches and sew to front of Calot. tr in same sp. Curve the corners. 4th rnd: S c in next 4 s c. s c innext 8 s c. Repeat the last 4 rounCs measures 20 until circumference i:eches. 12th rnd: S c in loop. Place pins around hat starting from pin mark at front and graduating pins to . d c in next 2 sps. increasing wherever necessary to keep work flat until piece measures 3t/9 inches. Cut remainder of brim away leaving the 10 inches for peak at front. s c in loop. pulling scallops into shape. * ch 1. d c in next tr. s c in next loop. 1. 3 ch and tr. sih rnd: Ch 3. Now sl st in each s c around. turn. Ch 5. lst rnd: Attach double strand of thread to a hole at center back. & ts. Brush hat and steam thoroughly over a boiling tea kettle. Remove trim and headband. ch 4. + ch 5. ch 1. d c in same place as last d c. ch 2. d c in 1st s c made (6 loops). Fasten end of Ties where ends of peak join Crown. 1. Repeat from * across. 4th rnd: S c in each s c around. ch 4.. 4th rnd: + Clt 2. s c in same place as last sI st. Cut along pin markings being careful not to cut into brim. l1th rnd: Sl st in next st. Next rnd: With wrong side facing work s c in same holes as last rnd. s c in same sp. ball). . s c in next loop) 5 times. 3rd rnd: * S c in next s c. cut away any wire or other stiffening from outer pdge of brim. Place a pin at center front of inner edge of brim just cut off.ith uery shallout crown. Repeat from * around ending with d c in Iast s c of nrevious rnd. work long s c in same place.

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