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Scrog and Sog Theory

Scrog and Sog Theory

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Published by: Franklin Reynolds on Feb 14, 2012
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I am not crediting myself with this info. I reproduced this with permission.

This article is intended to provide information for new growers using the ``ScrOG'' or ``Screen of Green'' method in mini or micro cabinets under small HPS lights, in the range of 70 to 250 watts. I won't spend too much time on 400, 600 and 1000 watt grows, as that's outside the scope of my experience. See the ``links'' post below for further materials regarding 400 watt and other scrogs.

Small HPS lights, alternatives Small HPS lights are perfect for growing cannabis in restricted space conditions, as they produce the most light from a given amount of electricity of any suitable lamp for cultivation, and produce a spectrum that is favorable for flower growth. The spectrum is not the best for vegetative growth, but that isn't really important to scrog growing, as the vegetative period is so short. Lights as small as 35 watts are available by stripping components from security lights commonly available at discount hardware stores. 250 watt lights can produce as much per foot in scrog conditions as 1000 watt lights in room growing. A single 70 watt light can produce enough for an average pot smoker in a space as small as 1 sq. ft. MH lights are available in small sizes, but they produce less light and more heat than their HPS counterparts, and heat is an important consideration in cabinet-style growing. Some growers like the MH spectrum for vegetative growth, but there is no real vegetative period in most scrog growing. Some believe the MH spectrum produces tighter buds. I tried a 250 MH and found it to be very hot and much weaker than the HPS. In fact, the 220 HPS conversion bulb has performed better than the MH with the same ballast. I should note that oldtimer1 states that some MH spectrum should be included in the flowering phase in order to fully develop the complexities of the psychoactive profile of a suitable plant. Perhaps a supplemental small MH could be included at the empty end of a 150-250 HPS hood. Regarding fluorescents, the light to heat ratio is even worse than an MH, and I am not aware of any situation in micro and mini growing where I would favor them over small HPS lights (see second part for a discussion of small-scale fluorescent scrogs). Compact fluorescents have been quite popular on the boards recently, and they look quite bright to the eye, even the 20 watters. But the plants aren't fooled, and the dull yellow glow of the small HPS lamps is manna to cannabis. Note that these lights are quite weak compared to 400, 600 or 1000 watt lights used in production growing. Intensity means that the light can be farther away from the plant and still be bright enough at the bud surface to produce. Intensity is necessary for tight bud formation. To get the most out of a small HPS light, you must keep the bud sites within the productive range of the bulb, a lopsided sphere extending out from the lamp source. For a 250 watt light, that circle of light

How can that be accomplished? The scrog method The essential detail of the scrog method is a screen. one based on a mention in Robert Clarke's book ``Marijuana Botany''. In modern terms.C. What happens to the planted clone? The clone could just sit there. For a 70 watt light. Savapalet. Ideally you would like all the buds within that magic circle of light intensity. stretch a bit under the light regime. let's explore the other alternative for small HPS lights. which was also a source for pH. Sea of green The plantlet sea of green method was developed to maximize the speed of cannabis growing in limited height situations. boards. and you would like that sphere of light completely filled with buds.extends out about 20" from the lamp. the method has been used for years. maximizing production from the space. You can access ADPC from several web-based sources. the maximum distance is apparently around 8". N. ft. resulting in a flat table of plant growth. I became aware of the method from a medical grower in the final days of the Hemp B. producing small. It is noted by pH that the first ``yield-o-rama'' post for HID scrog was in July of 1997. like the ``multi-shelf'' method explained in his article on N. Well. nothing new under the sun. The plants grow up to the screen and then are ``trained'' under the screen. which pH shortened to ``ScrOG''. But the method as initially used by pH was designed to tweak production from a large area under fluorescent lights. clones are planted at densities as high as 9 per sq. producing a tiny little bud . Kaye's Lycaeum site. Kaye is in fact credited with the term ``screen of green''. Within a short time after being established. But most work involving scrog and HID lights is quite recent. a field rather than a forest. Before discussing the method in detail. Because all the buds are growing at the same height. leaving the bottom parts shaded out and in a low intensity light field. typically suspended between the planting medium and the lamp. It's really that simple. usually poultry netting. and pH still posts there regularly. lightweight buds at best. skinny plants under such a light would only be properly lit at the very tops of the plants. or ``ADPC'' for short.P. the lights are switched to a 12 hour dark period.P. a posting buddy of Aeric 77. I am aware of a least two growers who used scrog and HID lights before that time. the plantlet sea of green method. the method was first popularized on the internet by the work of pH on the usenet group Alt Drugs Pot Cultivation. In a typical sea of green setup of this type. and flower. it is possible to get all the growth within the effective circle of light from the lamp. A group of tall.

even multiple 1000 watt installations over room-sized grow tables. has been almost forgotten. Second. and it worked well for many years. it will stop short of the lights and flower. happens. yielding just over 1 oz. if ever. which would be counter-productive. The plants crowd each other out and shade the lower portions. tall and skinny is not productive under a small light. which in any event are too far from the light source. Note that in the mid-90's. but some growers prefer shorter gaps for smaller lights. the term ``sea of green'' started being applied to much larger plants and grows. There are two purposes for that gap. as it results in the smallest possible plant flowering in the quickest possible time. with 3 foot plants spaced at one per foot. forming a woody main stem and branches. per ft. So the clone goes into a furious growth mode that stops when the plant reaches a minimum height set within its genetic software. it doesn't really matter why the response occurs. But that rarely. and then flowers. Your author suspects that the clone reads the light switch as fall. Note that the screen does not have to be absolutely flat. Branching is essential to scrog. the SSSC plantlet method. a forest rather than a field. but it can be so much better. just that you can rely on it. For purposes of the discussion here. First. That process is at the heart of the sea of green method. I don't radically dish my screen. but I do tie down the middle of the screen to prevent the screen from being pushed up. Most indica dominated plants stop short enough to be grown using this method. based on books and magazines that I read before designing my 250 watt system. and is very fast. and has a mechanism that recognizes that it's too small to produce seed. Not bad. It seems the original meaning of the term. As we discussed above. Instead the clone takes off in a rush of growth. The screen should be set about 8-12" above the planting medium. The method I will describe here uses the same sort of growth process that occurs in a plantlet method sea of green plant. The problem with the sea of green method under small HPS lamps is that it produces a number of small spikes under the lamp.with a couple of seeds. Basic flat. there needs to be sufficient space for the plant to branch. If the plant is suitable for sea of green growing. Why does the clone act in this manner? The actual process is subject to debate. Others argue that the clone's response is just a variation on the normal stretching process that happens when flowering is forced in any size plant. I grew initially using this method. . if possible. you have to get your hands underneath the screen in order to handle the plant shoots and to remove excess growth shaded out under the screen. and there are good arguments for dishing the screen to match the curvature of the light field. I prefer a space of about 10" for a 250 watt light. as little as 4-6". fast scrog The screen method used by pH relied on a long vegetative period for the plants to cover a large area of screen held close to a series of fluorescent tubes.

Instead of stopping and flowering. I have no experience in scrog from seed. whereas clones branch right from the medium. as the upward pressure of the stem will nail the foliage to the screen. ft. Purchase ties which are most flexible (wire with the smallest diameter) and coated with plastic not paper. Height control is typically a limiting factor in cabinet growing. so feel free to experiment. filling the screen with growth. Ultimate. I think. With female seeds it may be possible to grow a predictable scrog by raising the screen height. Seed plants may react differently to forcing as well. by the way? By the time you find out which plants are male and female from seed. one bud site per screen hole with standard poultry netting (2 x 3 inch holes). ``So why twist tie? Two reasons when training for in any screen application. I'm no expert on the matter. just about the time where the growing tips penetrate a few inches above the screen. Different plants may require more vegetative growth. it usually works out that the plants stop and ``crown off'' just as the screen is filled. because overgrowth creates an unproductive canopy.The clones are set under the screen at a density of about 1 plant per sq. without a real mess on your hands. it would be impossible to extract the males from the foliage wound into the screen and fill in the gaps with female shoots. At a density of 1 plant per ft. My advice is to start by forcing early. clean set of pruning scissors and just leave them with the grow. You'll need them every couple of days during this period. Seed plants also waste several inches of height before a mature stem section is reached from which branching can begin. but I haul out tubs of leaves and get pretty decent results. and to make sure all gaps in the screen are filled. but some growers like to tie off stems to the screen during the early phases of screen filling. Ideally a response similar to the sea of green method kicks in as explained above. Get a good sharp. Assuming an 8-12" gap. as the paper will eventually mold. the plants take off. You don't have to tie anything down. I have no position on removing fan leaves in general. Note that some growers disagree. Here's what one grower. the lights are switched to a 12 hour dark period. . Note that plant density is much lower than for plantlet-method sea of green. but 1 per ft.. say at two weeks. Why clones. more salad than buds. The timing is so critical. Training really isn't difficult. has to say on the subject: ``I swear by twist ties and have a huge stock. and normally they are removed. re-orienting the stem horizontally under the screen to line up bud sites with screen holes. or perhaps even less. making up for the wasted stem length. That means fewer clones to manage and fewer plants to be holding in a bust. Experience in using the method with various types of plants may result in more or fewer plants. They can be found just about anywhere. fan leaves would overwhelm the neighboring buds. is a good starting point. but in a small scrog grow. You must be around during this period to guide the growth under the screen. Note that this timing method is not universal. a factor in sentencing guidelines. It's really magic to see it happen. The clones are established and kicked into vegetative growth. With a limber plant I usually let the shoots grow vertically above the screen and then pull them under by the stem.

Pre-training. and are difficult to train. (Bending. Branches under the netting are allowed some time to reach the light. Bud-training. So long as the structures in the plant that carry fluids aren't damaged too much. When bud training the longer colas are controlled by bending and tying down to the screen with twist ties. It is possible to bend a stem by crushing it lightly at the bend. It may also be possible to top brittle plants under the screen. so that the future growth will be in several. not to mention forcing the light to be raised higher. The most efficient growth will occur where the main stem bends on a 90 degree and beyond. By using twist ties each bud can be positioned where air flows between each cola allowing efficient light dispersal within the canopy and better air flow. to avoid leaving stumps as mold sites. Moldy buds can be avoided by repositioning buds growing against each other. I have no experience in training a scrog grow by topping.1. Hybrid vigor in some cases. A view from the bottom (planter to the screen) showed that efficiency could be improved. growth shoots and branches) 2. ``To a certain extent the buds freeze at a certain point and height/stem length slows. or plants which tend to "stretch" more than others eventually straighten out the 90 degree angle exposing less area of the most efficient portion on the plant and eventually stretches to a point where more stem was exposed to direct light. above the screen than desired. leaving ideal growth mediums for mold. but less than half will see light because you're concentrating on efficiency. and repositioning) ``When initially induced to 12/12. This allows for the light to concentrate the most productive part of the plant. Branches coming off the main stem parallel to the netting are spread as far from the main stem as possible making for a even canopy. Excess leaves and shoots should be clipped close to the stem. and branches will always vary. more slender shoots. ``I like to leave the ties long enough for the plant hold the shape desired. forcing the most efficient production the plant can dish out. which receives the most light. After the screen is filled all growth under the screen must be clipped off. and controlling overall height. Robert Clarke recommends pruning away from the . ``Without ties? Yield was lower. A few larger colas had to be tied down shielding smaller buds from direct light. stem crushing/crimping. Some branches grew buds with LONG stems between the screen and base of the cola to compete with the large colas.'' Some plants have brittle stems. In extreme cases crushing/crimping is necessary. more bud sites per square. (Exact placement of main stems. the shoot will heal and be just fine (thanks to Uncle Ben for that trick). lowering production (This can be resolved by switching to a more intense bulb) . but some plants are more vigorous than others and continue stretch beyond the rest of the crop. the main tip/tips that hit the netting are immediately trained 90 degrees perpendicular to the netting. Main stem usually around the second week (give or take) . The canopy height is close to being established. Shaded growth quickly shrivels and dies.

Note that the buds grown in a scrog field are each a piece of what would be a vertical cola. I find they must be removed. with all the buds in a thick carpet extending 8-10" above the screen. and one bud per hole. is about the minimum to reach that kind of production. Your results may vary. like piping connecting the root mat to the canopy. You will haul out buckets of leaves and excess shoots from a scrog grow. producing a structure that looks like a single unit. 400 watt growers have reported up to 2. per ft. Anyone can reach the benchmark production numbers. Subsequent pruning is really limited once the plant sets buds and stops growing. Most of the flowering time in a scrog grow the maintenance level is near zero. There does not seem to be a lot of difference between buds that would come from sites lower on side branches from those at the actual tip of the plant. with a suitable plant and enough light density. . but you must concentrate on filling the screen quickly and completely. using shielded lights in a box of screen. the extra time required for the plants to reach the screen before the flowering period is lengthened by only about two weeks. Some plants develop large leaves from the buds themselves.stem. As I say.6 ounces per foot. I suspect that 70-75 watts per sq. If loose and tall would yield better. In scrog. But that's about it. it all looks the same in the bong bowl. but weight is all we're interested in. In a compressed grow. How much weight? I have shown that it is possible to reach over 2 oz. but the plants can take it. Screen fill density is all important to making weight. Does it matter how the canopy is created? Not particularly. You are familiar with how a cola is made up of individual bunches of flowers connected to the stem in an overlapping spiral. You want the canopy to be low and tight. except on the edges. The area underneath the screen contains the tree trunks that support the canopy. The plants end up just as long. I did nearly 2. For the most part. not appearance. because that time is the same used by the sea of green method to add height.4 ounces per foot in a flat scrog. No additional time is required to fill the screen. and if the leaves shade out neighboring bud sites. ft. If everything goes well. measured by canopy area. As an experienced plantlet-method sea of green grower. a bud is a bud in this method. typically 4-8" tall. then scrog wouldn't work in the first place. in my experience. Each bud grows up vertically 90 degrees from the stem. They aren't donkey dicks. but I don't know for sure. each one of those florets matures into a small bud in their own right. about the size of a cigar. and you won't impress the editors of High Times into featuring your buds in the centerfold. Typically a flat scrog grow ends up resembling a tropical forest canopy. but certainly you will do better using scrog than small-scale sea of green at any light density. but the growth is directed horizontally. but a lot of the standard advice has to be discarded when dealing with the special conditions of a scrog grow. and you want as little plant material under there as possible. Clip away. The space under the screen is dark and humid. I feel comfortable stating that as a fact.

Some growers believe vegetative fills are beneficial. What can go wrong with a flat scrog grow? The worst thing you can do is to allow the plants to grow too long. but most plants will produce more than sufficient branches under the fast method at one plant per foot. Some growers feel it is more appropriate to measure production in terms of HPS watts. but in practice I find it's difficult to recover from a badly overgrown screen. Error on the side of forcing early.A side note regarding the measurement and reporting of production is appropriate here. given an equal amount of space being used. I think that might be true for some stiff indica's that do not branch well. You can find information about the YOR on the usenet group ADPC in posts by Old Ketchup Lungs and other posters. Other growers believe that topping or FIM treatment might be beneficial in producing more branching. but I encourage reporting a complete set of information about the grow so that light density can be taken into account by those so inclined. It's the fastest. or ``GE''. Indeed. For the most part. I favor reporting production by area. Vegetative fills. usually means a micro grow). A ``yield-o-rama'' report or ``YOR'' is a good compromise. and the most likely to produce a short and dense canopy. FIM and topping The fast. ~shabang~ has proposed a ``garden efficiency'' measurement. Cabinet growers want to know how to produce the greatest weight of buds in the space they have. I believe measuring output per watt would favor underlit grows. especially in comparison to any kind of production grow. You would think that excess growth could be cut out or moved to vertical screens. Plants that grow into and fill the screen seem to put on better bud weight than overgrown plants that are tied down and whacked back to fit. and our host. Error on the side of short filling the screen the first time. apologies to the metric system. a cabinet grower should use the greatest amount of lamp power than can be cooled. My advice is to stick with the proven method at least the first few times out. Accordingly. and the lamps are typically very small. be cautious and do not let the plant grow too long. particulary for grows with feminized seeds. Make the benchmark weight. most reliable method. For growers who must make fewer plants cover the screen. flat method relies on the flowering stretch to fill. taking into account how efficiently the grower uses the lamp. and then adjust accordingly. no money. In cabinet growing the area under cultivation cannot be expanded. not how to conserve lamp power. . but I haven't seen the weight reports to prove it. An overgrown screen is difficult to recover from. learn from what happens and adjust on the next crop. particularly in the tight quarters in which a low plant density grow is likely to occur (no room. learn what that takes and then you can experiment. growers on the boards talk in terms of so many ounces per square foot of growing area. Sometimes it is not possible to use one plant per foot. where the grower cannot afford room to clone and hold mothers.

This is not the same as ``double budding''. or the scrog field plants are grown longer. short scrog canopy can produce. the additional foliage is allowed to grow up the outside of the vertical screen. If the plants react well. was first coined by Kunta and further developed by chthonic and several other growers. Some don't react to the light change at all. Bog methods Many people have been excited about the scrog method and have dreamt up all sorts of ways to expand production. when the buds seem to stall out. but even then I haven't seen the kind of weight a tight. and it's not designed to produce photogenic buds. Imagine your plant as a point on the line outside of the circle. The most common variation is the ``bog'' method.When judging a scrog grow you see posted on this board. An extension on the bog theme is spiral bog. and I've never seen a ``hermie''. these extra parts should finish in time. A fair number of grows I have seen recently on the boards used the screen more to locate and support tall bud wands. You can get away with that with lights of 400 watts and over. not all plants respond well. Scrog is a production method. Imagine the light field as a circle sitting tangent to a horizontal line. This technique can be particularly valuable in scrog. Either additional plants are used at the edges. Bog for ``box of green''. and a very few may be disturbed into uncontrolled growth from the tops of the buds. first coined by . It should only be done once during the crop. given the large number of smaller buds. Interrupted flowering Also known as ``buddus interruptus''. Done early enough. Added to the horizontal screen are vertical screens around the perimeter. and for no more than two days. myself included in the mad scientist crowd. the procedure is to switch the lights to 24/0 for a day or two about at the end of the fifth week of flowering. ignore the look of the buds and concentrate on weight. The best technique is to switch for one day. A caveat is in order. but either way. How can the plant get inside the circle? By going up. It also allows plants at the edge of the field to get into the circle of intensity from the bulb. you will see tufts of additional flowering parts standing out from the sides of the buds like little towers. You might be concerned with a tendency for male parts to be produced. wait a couple of days to observe the effect. You might equate this method to an ``arena'' grow in this regard. but I've been practising this method for a long time. taking advantage of wasted air space above the field. and they will add extra weight to the crop. as the plant is never actually kicked into vegetative growth. and then give it one more day if the buds haven't responded.

a pioneer in the method. the height from the horizontal screen to the roof is only 12". but to allow them to grow longer before forcing. I found the method to be superior. But most micro and mini growers don't have room for a separate . Here's what chthonic. The first is to use more plants. Then they are laid down horizontally and trained in a spiral fashion /// around the vertical training screens. straight up to the vertical training screens. and produces 2 oz. day./day. If the growth is too tall for the screens.. The advantage of this type of bog grow is reliability and speed. around another week or two of growth seems to be about right. As it's a box driven by a 70-watt bulb. the resulting growth being trained to the vertical screens. since the horizontal field is filled in exactly the same manner as in a normal scrog grow. which are added to the edges of the grow. This method allows all the screen area to be densely filled with bud sites. That would be . trained in opposite directions along the vertical training screens. 88 days. There are two ways to fill the vertical bog screens. 74 days. Or the plant can be trained as it naturally branched. as I mentioned. and produces 1 1/2 oz.020 oz. The plants grow unhindered 18" from the soil up through a narrow band of the horizontal screen and onto the verticals until they touch the roof. ``The spiral training can go one of two ways.. In a spiral bog the plants are allowed to add considerable vegetation. it can be laid down at an angle. Just for the sake of argument. Note that it's possible to shorten the cycle by growing plants in a separate area for about two weeks and then adding them to the scrog setup.chthonic. That would be . When the horizontal scrog field plants are forced to flower. Spiral bog or s/bog. This process proved to be tricky for me at first. Let's suppose a scrog grow takes two weeks longer. The second method is to use the same number of plants as in a standard scrog grow. Several growers have been successful at 70 watts. but once I piled up some experience in timing and training. The entire plant can be bent over in one direction and trained along with the rest of the plants in a clockwise or counter-clockwise fashion around the vertical training screens. per ft.023 oz. ft. spiral training is the only way to direct the shoots so it just happens. and the subject plant takes 60 days to complete its life cycle. had to say about his experiences with 70 watt HPS lights: ``The quickest and most successful approach that I have found to train a bog grow is to lower the horizontal screen to within 6" of the soil and grow 2 plants per sq. That would be . let's suppose a plantlet-method sea of green method produces 1 ounce per ft.'' Any method of growing should be analyzed not only for production over the space used. which is trained around the box in a laid-down spiral. per ft. The disadvantage is that the number of plants is increased to near plantlet-method sea of green levels. or thereabouts. like this (but flatter): //////. per ft/day.017 oz. advantage scrog. like a spiral bog grow. the plants on the edge are allowed to grow vertically like sea of green plants.. The cabinet is small.. Let's suppose than an extended bog grow takes two more weeks than a scrog grow. advantage extended bog. but also for production over time.

your author thinks that bog can be used as a general term to describe such a grow. but is suspended vertically in the middle of a tube of foliage. for vertical scrog. hollow screen forms do not have to be in the shape of square-cornered boxes. I coined the terms ``h/bog'' and ``v/bog''. and I don't really know what other term to use. Imagine a 2 x 2 cabinet with a vscrog screen held 4" from the walls. At this point. but I've usually seen that term applied to free-standing plants rather than a box of screen. stealing from chthonic's notation. Posts on ADPC describe inverted V shapes.growing area. The light is not in a reflector at the top of the space. and that's nearly 14 sq. ft. and dispenses with the horizontal screen entirely. like a 150 or 250. of screen in the same space that supports 4' of flat screen. as there is no reason not to handle as much growth as you can. Most people just use the generic term ``scrog''. Such a setup can be an outstanding way to get the most of out small security lights in the 70-100 range. and the ability to handle the moisture load produced by the massive amount of . Time will tell what terms become attached to these methods. these methods are so new that every grow provides significant information. but I have modified the growing space to correct the problems and I will continue testing sometime in the future. which could reduce the production over time substantially. Even if the production per foot were half. and capture whatever excess growth you can on the verticals. and cylinder forms have sprung up at Cannabis World. flat scrog grows under your belt first to get used to the process. approaching peg's Rama concept for zero-g cannabis growing. We're talking 4 screens. with the light suspended in the middle. you're still talking 3 ½ ounces per foot! Can that really be possible? Not so far. Take off a couple of inches for corner overlap and a gap in the front for access. V-scrog The final extension of this concept was thought up by Kunta. Vertical screens extend from the plant medium all the way up to the top of the growing space. but no one else has picked up on the lingo. But do add the vertical screens regardless. ``v-scrog''. Finally. The foliage area is stunning. Suppose the buds fill up about 3' of the vertical screen. The ``bog'' term is subject to some debate. Note that the entire light field is used. I've seen one grower using small HPS lights who shaped his screen into a deep bowl shape. But I think for a larger light. Chthonic believes this type of grow can be referred to as an arena grow. My advice to those new to the scrog method is to get a few fast. it is necessary for the light to be in the normal horizontal position above the box. with a gap in the front screen for maintenance. A single ``correct'' way to do this probably doesn't exist. The problems so far involve the time needed to fill the screen area. Chthonic believes that the term should be used for a box of foliage that surrounds a light held in a vertical position. each 4' in area (16" x 36"). not just from the bottom half of the lamp and what comes off the reflector. Personally. In my recent compressed grows using shielded lights. I have grown two v-scrog's that were mostly failures. I coined the term for the method. and it would be less due to the loss of the 3D flat scrog field. Fair enough.

In fact. Plant growth could be controlled by training it across the vertical screen. 400 and up. or possibly to a common substrate. Soil or hydro? I have read nearly every scrog post on this board. getting a reasonable harvest almost requires scrog. Eugene and others have done very well in tiny vertical box forms with 70 watt lamps. It might be possible to grow a productive crop with 150 and 250 watt lamps in as little as 2'. Once you get past a small. Even if production isn't dramatically better than horizontal methods. fluorescent lights Scrog is not a difficult method to use. I favor scrog training over FIM because it is easier and quicker. v-scrog is a promising solution to growing in very restricted height conditions. maybe less. so there are many ways this could be done. because most new growers are using small lights. Obviously that means that the screen should be connected to the plant container. like a plywood base. which could be any reasonable height. Ultimate. and new growers should not hesitate to try it. or any bog-type grow. and a lot of the activity on other boards and at ADPC. flat scrog grow. Since the light-to-foliage gap is horizontal. First-time growers. often fluorescents. Although I lack experience in using soil intensively. it's just a guide.foliage. it becomes very difficult to train a more complex grow by reaching into the cabinet space. I don't believe there is enough experience available to express a firm opinion on this matter. FIM is probably a better method for larger lights. New growers are probably going to use soil or DWC. I am also not the world's most talented trainer. the best 400 HPS production number I've seen was accomplished in soil. That may mean that active hydro scrogs will evolve quicker than soil or DWC grows. both of which produce good results with scrog. But there are a few elements of scrog growing that tend to favor an active hyrdroponic setup. The screen does not need to be sturdy. I would never design a sizable scrog system. and certainly I have seen many fine DWC grows recently. For that matter. But obviously it is much easier to slide out an empty container than one full of water (DWC) or soil. but chthonic. active hydro systems allow freshly rooted clones to have direct access to very high levels of nutrients immediately. or a similar method such as paper-clip training or FIM (look it up). without the capability of rolling or sliding out the plant container and screens as a single unit. the only absolute vertical needs are for the plant container and a gap between the end of the downward-pointing bulb and the planting medium. where the height of the bud wand can be handled. and it appears that a successful scrog can be done using plants in pots as well as with more exotic hydroponic systems. Soil .

Compact electronic ballast fluorescents are more efficient than magnetic ballast tubes. it's true. If fluorescents must be used. HPS and fluorescent tubes have an advantage in separate ballasts that can mounted outside the growing space. Depending on the plant they will either be light and feathery. Further. to accomodate a series of tubes.growers should avoid pots. HPS lamps. Instead. You can expect to get 1-2 ounces per foot. It is often said that HPS lamps are expensive. and I would avoid it unless you are restricted to a fewer number of plants by circumstances. an 8-12" screen gap and force when the plants hit the screen. are less efficient than small HPS lamps. making the light from those surfaces available only by reflection. and in presentable buds. 70 HPS security lamps go as low as $30-50. about 6" would be suitable. but which will heat a room? A fluorescent spreads the heat over a larger area and therefore feels less hot to the hand. and the output from 70 HPS lamps is proven. to take 4' tubes. A fluorescent tube grow could be accomplished in a space as small as 2' square. and last much longer than fluoros. It is often said that HPS lamps are hotter than fluorescents. or hard. Compact fluorescents tend to wrap the tube surface inside themselves. which will produce the fastest and most predictable screen fill. Getting the most from a fluorescent grow requires keeping the canopy tight and close to the tubes. but very small. a plastic pan about the size and shape of the growing space should be used. Fluorescent lamps. The cost of the materials needed is minimal. using soil or DWC. To say an HPS lamp is hotter in the context of growing is to say a burning match is hotter than a radiator. but all of the heat they produce is confined in the growing space. Security lights containing HPS bulbs and ballasts can be purchased at discount hardware stores. by being compact they act as a point source without the required intensity to back it up. Remember also that HPS lamps have a higher mean output over time compared to their rating. avoid compact bulbs and stick with tubes. and separate ballasts are available from online sources at very reasonable prices. but that too is a myth. but it isn't really so. You can grower larger and harder . It doesn't need to be very deep. and will tend to keep the canopy in check. Use one plant per foot. The design keeps the canopy flat and a few inches away from the surface of the bulb. stacking multiple grows in a single space to make up for the lower production. If you must use fluorescents. As mentioned above.s. scrog as envisioned by pH was designed to be used with fluorescent tubes. by Lights of America. It would be wise in either case to mount the ballasts outside the growing space to help with heat. aside from corporate b. be realistic and don't expect to be bowled over by the buds. and therefore produce more heat per watt. Using vegetative growth to fill the screen is an advanced technique. maybe the bottom of a closet. which restrict the size of the root mat and take up precious vertical space. which will maximize the root mat. or a footlocker-type space. There are several myths floating around the boards about fluorescents vs. A good first choice would be a 70 HPS lamp or two in a space about 1-3 square foot.

the small ``security light'' types. The best way to plan your own design is to see what others are doing. Using the standard of 50 HPS watts per square foot of canopy will produce good results. When the males show. Scrog growing works best with clones. paper-clip training or FIM to control height. but only by stacking up a wasteful amount of wattage on a very few bud sites. a 400 watt lamp has a lot of power directly underneath it. there is a link below that will lead you to a post that compiles the best near-harvest pictures on a non-judgemental basis. but for the areas close to the lamp the intensity is far greater. though I would provide a couple more inches of screen gap to allow for the portion of the seed plant stem that will not produce branches. not bunched together. but I would shoot for more like 70-75. The 50-70 watts per square foot rule applies to the larger lights as well. Exercise the search engine and look for scrog grows with similarsized areas and lamps. meaning that a 70 would be perfect for a square foot of screen. Within the confines of a scrog cabinet or box. Branching is fundamental to scrog. An alternate method would be to grow each seed in separate soil containers and use plantlet method sea of green. The smaller lamps need to be held quite close to the canopy. and the remaining females re-arranged to best suit the light source. A 70 HPS has a range of about 8". to allow for some vertical stretch. and you should yield at least an ounce per foot. If it is not possible to produce clones or to acquire feminized seeds. Use a small HPS lamp and keep the plants trained low and flat as possible. in the 50-100 range. and larger lamps in the 150-250-400 range. That means the distance from the screen to the light should be only an inch or two outside the range. Asking a 400 watt lamp to light an 8 square foot area means skirting the lower limit of the lamp power. then I would not use scrog. so look and make your own decision based on real grows. and the distance from the lamp to the edge of the space has to be computed keeping in mind that the light is traveling on the longer diagonal out and down to the canopy. but as power increases the limit is more negotiable. but that requires a mother area which may not be possible for a new grower. Basic design elements There are essentially two classes of HPS lamps when it comes to scrog growing. If you would like to compare some fluorescent and small HPS grows by wattage. as much of the growing surface will be vertical. Fluorescent tube lamps lack intensity. analyze their results and plan accordingly. 400 watt lamps are therefore an excellent match with . If you wished to grow with two or more 70-100 HPS lamps. the lights should be distributed over the canopy. as they spread their light over a large area. for example. and compact fluorescents simply lack enough punch to act as point-source lights. By keeping the canopy directly under the lamp short. and by allowing the growth on the fringes to get taller. one can leverage the power of the 400 to a larger space. as the effective range in which they will produce tight buds is limited. Using a plantlet method pretty much requires an HPS lamp to get decent production. People get very heated on this board pro and con regarding fluorescents (guilty).buds with fluorescents. they can be removed from the growing area. Feminized seeds from Dutch Passion should work as well.

in a 2'x 2' cabinet. the heat from the lamp can be confined and controlled. the whole canopy must see the lamp. particularly if mother and cloning space is needed in the same space. which is somewhat negotiable. If you are inclined to try a small MH light. and therefore a 2' x 2' space is about as far as you can push the lamp and keep the production per foot up. can be cut with normal tools (sawed. the medium to screen gap and the thickness of the lamp/hood assembly. Even with . If you're adding watts. the horizontal field. but not confirmed. and up to a foot of space can be recovered by tightening up all the other elements as much as possible. I see a lot of flat scrog grows where the growth thins out on the edges with bare walls surrounding the bulb. in any flat scrog grow. and use the outside space to your advantage. Because the area under the lamp is relatively small. not much help. using the flowering stretch to fill the screen in the classic fast. the height of the plant container. or a plastic like lexan or plexiglass. and maybe a mixture of a horizontal scrog canopy under the lamp and FIM-type plants around the edges would be superior. It is also possible. Height is often a restrictive element when designing a cabinet grow. It's probably a close thing. Start with the known dimensions of the basic elements. using a bog or arena type of grow becomes more difficult. or scored and snapped). That leaves the growing space above the screen. the tops of the buds can't be fried by the lamp. If you keep your canopy low and tight. or providing for airflow from the growing area through the barrier. that 400 HPS lamps could produce better with a supercropping type method. Lexan or plexiglass sheets are available at discount hardware stores. Designing such a grow means using an extra fan to cool each compartment space. flat scrog fashion. added to a larger lamp's light field they can be useful as supplements to balance out a light field and to add some punch. But by using a horizontal shield of tempered glass. and are modestly priced. perhaps you could add both light and some spectrum balance. These lamps are probably better used with a basic flat scrog. even to the extent of using additional plants to get that result. Note that while the smaller ``security light'' HPS lamps lack reach alone. becomes pinched down. Certainly. An unshielded (open bulb) 250 grow is perfectly suited to a space 2' x 2' x 4'. Second. unless some extra heat is needed. I've also seen compact and tube fluorescents added as supplements.an arena. For example. make them count. and the canopy must be kept relatively close. The 150 and 250 watt lamps don't have that kind of power. a 70 HPS added to the empty end of a 250 HPS hood would provide a combination of 80 HPS watts per foot. instead of scrog. none of the buds will get much bigger than 8-10" above the screen. Error on the side of higher plant densities. There has to be a gap between the top of the buds and the lamp for two reasons. as the most productive area. or bog type of grow. First. Designing a cabinet in terms of the vertical space needed is best done by working backwards. like FIM. but that's like lighting a candle in sunlight. you have nothing to lose by letting the very outside row of buds grow tall. although there is no reason not to allow some growth on the vertical walls if it can be arranged within the space. obviously. The 250 has a reach of 20" within which it can tighten up buds. and would illuminate the overall space more evenly. a true ``arena'' grow.

producing thick stem growth that erupts from the bud tops. I would avoid the cheapo hardware store models and go with something decent. Larger grows with squirrel cage fans need to be controlled by a line thermostat. and to carry off the moisture load created by the plants. my 115 CFM 5N471 Comair's sound like a helicopter starting up. so be cautious. but they are noisier. you may find humidity is the problem rather than temperature. Even with shielding there must be adequate airflow through the canopy to avoid mold. I wonder if they realize that? Usually the fan is mounted to blow the air out. The Dayton 4C754 200 CFM axial is an excellent choice.5 to 1 CFM per HPS watt as a decent guide. and that water has to be removed. like the Dayton 2E728 at Grainger for about $40-50. as the tops of some varieties react badly to being in close proximity to an intense light source. a 3" circular plastic tube inlet would be a minimum requirement for a 250 HPS grow. regardless of the temperature. to produce an overpressure rather than a partal vacuum. In that case a line humidistat or a thermostat and humidistat in parallel might provide the best control. or at least use the term ``suite'' rather than apartment. Note that Grainger apparently checks for obvious individual accounts. a business address if you can. Fans for smaller grows can simply be controlled by the light timer. Air inlets and outlets need to be arranged to avoid light leaks into the growing space. Use a valid federal tax number (like your employer's). and are usually best ventilated with an industrial ``squirrel cage'' type blower. With the smaller HPS lamps probably ``muffin'' type axial fans are sufficient. A 4' canopy under a 250 HPS will pull about a half gallon per day through the leaves. $80-90 at Grainger. Usually room has to be made available in the cabinet for the hardware. but using the Overgrow search engine with the word ``Dayton'' should provide a wealth of other examples. If you're using a shielded grow with outside air inlets. say about . available at many hardware stores. Turning the air duct 90 degrees and avoiding reflections with .03-. Not everyone can accept packages at work of course. all growstores. For example. Grainger has a nice selection at reasonable prices. But it's easier to light-proof a space with the fan power sucking the door against the seals than to be fighting air pressure. Dayton and Rubbermaid make a lot of money from pot growers. Larger setups require more fan power.com.shielding some gap is necessary. It would be better in theory for the fan to blow into the confined space. sucking it up through the canopy from an inlet into the box. The Comair ball-bearing axials last much longer than the solid bearing Daytons. always on when the lights are burning. with several different configurations to match the requirements of cabinet growing. which sells Dayton and Comair fans for reasonable prices. so you may not be able to access Grainger. which is a shame. Fresh or room air inlets should be a match with the space and the airflow.05 square inch of inflow space per HPS watt. so look for designs that are compact and easy to mount in a given space. and a phone number that answers at the business name. and online at sites like Grainger. Cooling and airflow are the final design element. A general guide is to provide about . available from the same sources.

a GFCI-protected outlet is a must. Whatever you use. . remember it doesn't have to be very sturdy. I see other growers using various types of square plastic netting. In spite of the long history of the use of screens and netting in cannabis growing. Editorial assistance by newbie. Poultry netting seems to space out the buds just right. This is suppose to be fun. a ABS plastic plumbing elbow seems to be popular these days. so don't kill yourself doing it! Conclusion Hopefully this will give you an idea of where we stand on small level scrog methods and will answer some of the basic questions.flat-black paint inside the duct is sufficient.SCW . which consists of 2" x 3" irregular hexagons. Ganja Baron and Teahead for assistance and suggestions on specific topics. or stiff heavy-gauge wire to secure the screen. Poultry netting costs nothing. I should also acknowledge indirect input by Bongo and Shuzzit. If you use square holes. The prototypical scrog screen is poultry netting. Before doing anything else. about 24 per foot. Thanks to pH. as well as the other growers mentioned in the article. but plenty of information is available online. which are all my fault. accelerated scrog growing under HID lights is a wide open field. Use something like a thin dowel. but it's not a daredevil sport. Anyone who cares to copy this post and continue with it is welcome. but in no case would I go smaller than 2". rather than being one poster's opinion. Uncle Ben. and quite a few weaving their own between sticks with wire or fishing line. don't neglect safety in any grow. Additional input by chthonic and Ultimate as noted. but it does have the disadvantage of cut wire ends around the edges which always seem to be diabolically placed to slice up your hands and arms. Note: I have retired from internet posting activities. When using electrical devices around water. except for the last three sections. Don't steal growing space with wide wood pieces around the edges. I would tend to size them at about 2 1/2" or a little less. Finally. learn a few basics about electricity. Most of the basic grow guides do a reasonable job. and each new grower can add experience and ideas to the mix. in my experience. For example. but remember it should always be open to edits from the community.

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