HISTORY OF INDIAN COSTUMES SATAVAHANA PERIOD (200 B.C-A.

D 250)
BY, SMITHA B.Sc 1st Year

INTRODUCTION
‡ ‡ Established in Deccan and endured for 460 years. Based from Dharanikota and Amaravati in Andhra Pradesh to Junnar (Pune) and Prathisthan (Paithan) in Maharashtra. ‡ The Early Satavahanas ruled Andhra and present Telangana regions ‡ They were one of the first Indian state to issue coins struck with their rulers embossed. ‡ Early people of Deccan were a hybrid race, a mixture of aboriginal Dravidians and Scythians, Parthian, Greeks, Buddhism and Mauryan culture.

‡ Other officials were 'Mahamatra' (in charge of religious fares).POLITICAL CONDITION ‡ The hereditary monarchy based on Military-cum-Feudal Bureaucracy was the political system of Satavahanas. ‡ The king was claiming 1/6th of the produce of tax wage . 'Husinik' (Treasurer). 'Bhandagarika' (Superintendent of stores). 'Mahasenadipate (Commander-in-chief of forces).

Kshatriyas. ‡ There were also tribes outside Aryan Varma system and people where known according to their profession Halika (cultivator). and patriarchal Joint family system was prevalent.division of people into Brahmins. ‡ Polygamy prevailed in the society." Gadhika (druggist). . Sethi (Merchant). etc.SOCIAL CONDITIONS ‡ Chaturvarna system. Vaisyas and Sudras ‡ Varnasankara (marriages outside varna). Kolika (weaver).

FOURTH CLASS Lohavanijas. etc. . Vardhakis. professionals like Suvarnakaras . Naigamas THIRD CLASS Small officials Ex: Lekfiakas. Mahabhojas Mahasenadipathis SECOND CLASS Middle class officials Ex: Mahamatras.SOCIAL CONDITIONS ‡ Society was divided into four classes. Amatyas. FIRST CLASS High officials Ex: Maharathas. Bhandagarikas. Dassakas.

ROYAL LIFE ‡ They followed 6 emblems of royal patronage ± Ushniha (turban). pair of flywhisks. ± Umbrella was white and gold for kings and nobles. ± Khagavahni. sword. ± Flywhisks were made of yak tails with gold handles.Female attendant carried sword on her shoulder. CHATTRADHARA ATTENDANTS . sandles and the royal standards. carried by Chattradhara (umbrella carrier). ± Thronged sandals were made out of boar skin. waved by Chauri bareers. umbrella.

‡ Kancuka: Were mid-high length with short sleeves and opening on the left side or in front with V or round shaped neck lines ± KING·S during hunting also wore tunic which had no discrenibel opening at the neck along with an elaborate turban ushnisa. ± HUNTER·S: In addition to this also wore two-bar type sandals with a strap for buckling . Kancuka in stripes or behive design were worn. ± CIVILIANS: Tunics.COSTUMES OF EARLY SATAVAHANA PERIOD ‡ MEN·S COSTUME ± KING AND COURTIERS: wore the indigenous antariya with decorative kayabandh tied in different styles and knots. along with thick kayabandh around the waist. Ushnisa was always worn and crown was used when necessary.

.WOMEN·S COSTUMES ‡ Women·s costumes had an influence of foreign invaders. large uttariyas with elaborate borders covering their head and back. ‡ CIVILIANS-Their changed costumes included short antariyas. ‡ ATTENDANTS.Wore transparent long antariyas with loose kayabandhs tied in a knot at the center along with beautiful ornaments.

HAIRSTYLE AND HEAD GEAR ‡ Jungle women wore rolls and headbands with peacock feathers. ‡ Village women and commoners wore their hair in a simple knot at the nape covered by a large uttariya. . ‡ Court attendants and women of the richer class wore.topknot on the right side with a loop of flower suspended in a plait.

MEN ‡ Worn intertwined with lengths of clot to from an ushnisa in a variety of ways.HEADGEAR. ‡ Most common style of top know covered with a cloth of the turban. ‡ This knot could be at center front ovet the forehead in a ¶counch-shell· shape .

and tikka.JEWELLERY ‡ Indigenous Men·s jewellery consisted of lambanam. and a pair of kangan and baju band . ‡ Women attendants wore mekhala. earrings. . disc type earrings. the lambanam. ‡ Women·s wore large number of bangles made of conch or ivory.

MILITARY COSTUME ‡ Soldiers wore short-sleeved tunics. chin band and ear flaps. or two top knots with a turban. with elaborate headgear consisting of either a turban with top knot. ‡ They were equipped with axes and bows and arrows or carried sickles. SOLDIER .

C-A. At times it was dyed and embroidered also. ± KAYABANDH: Tied in bow shaped knot to support anatriya ‡ Vethaka: Simple sash form of Kayabandh.across the back and over both shoulders. ‡ It was worn in different styles. . thrown over the chest or in kachcha fashion.D 250) ‡ Antariya. Uttariya and Kayabandh was the three main costumes wore by both men and women. ‡ MEN·S COSTUME ± ANTARIYA: Usually transperent ‡ Te nivi bandha knot was used to tie the antrariya at the waist ± UTTARIYA: It was usually white made out of cotton or silk.LATE SATAVAHANA COSTUME (100 B.

‡ The YAJNOPAVATI THREAD evolved in this era.MEN·S COSTUME CONTD« ‡ Attendents. which was derived from uttariya which was draped over left shoulder and under right arm in the UPAVITA FASHION. . Wool.Brahmins. ‡ YAJNOPAVITI THREAD.Vaishya. guard at king·s palace wore stitched shirt like foreign garment called KANCHUKA.consist of 3 cotton threads each of 9 twisted strands. HempKshatariya.

‡ Attendants in the women·s apartments in the palace wore the short kanchuka with an indigenous antariya/ when calf-length it was worn with kayabandh and uttariya . ± Mauraja.Made of almost transparent cloth and worn very tight and clinging to body.Bow shaped to support antariya.girdle made of many strips plaited together.Usually white at times with bright colors and embroidered in case of royal costume and worn in Kachcha style. ‡ UTTRARIYA. ± Patika made of lat ribbon-shaped pieces of cloth(silk) ± Kalabuka.WOMEN·S COSTUME ‡ ANTARIYA.Had a drum headed knots at the ends. ‡ KAYABANDH.

MAULIBANDHA. ‡ HAIRSTYLE: ± Tied the hair in large topknot at center front covered with turban jewelled to hold the turban in place.was generally wrapped around 3 times covering the top knot of hair which was usually white or dyed with ornamental gold strips.an elaborate turban wound decorated with strings of pearls wreaths.HEADGEAR AND HAIRSTYLE-MEN ‡ USHNISA. ± The hair could also be worn in one or two topknots. ± Short hair parted in the middle prevailed among civilians .a short cylindrical cap studded with gems and ornamented with designs. one loop and one top knot. ± At time the top knot could be Pear-shaped . ‡ ‡ KIRITA.

MEN·S COSTUMES KING DWARAPALAKA KING AS HUNTER ATTENDENT AT COURT .

praveni at the back. ± MAKARIKA-Fish-crocodile shaped worn at the parting of hair . decorated with jeweled strips and tassels.hair worn as a simple not. DHAMMILIA.most admired. pearls and jewels. Looped closed to the head in an elongated knot at the back of the head down at the nape decorated with small fillet of flowers around it or a short garland of flower dangling from it.HEADGEAR-WOMEN ‡ Wore their hair in several ways ± ± ± Plait.Elobrate dressing of hair with flowers. Coil with five delicate plaits dangling from it. ± ± KABARIBANDHA. ‡ HEADGEAR: ± CHUDAMANI-Lotus-shaped jewel with its petals made of pearls and precious stones normally worn in the center of knotted hair.

armlets and necklaces. Both men and women wore earrings. EARRINGS ± KUNDALA.Mango shaped pieces of gold or gold set with gems strung necklace ‡ .Shorter form of necklace ± NIKSHA. ± EKAVALI.Slab-like gems ± PHALAKA HARA.A necklace of gems and gold beads with larger central bead ± PHALAKA. ± MANGAMALAI.Several strings of pearls held together by phalakas ± KANTA.Strings of pearls.Gold coin strung necklace with silk or plaited gold cord.Coil shaped earring ± TALAPATRA.Single string of pearls ± YASHTI.small strip of ivory or gold palm leaf shaped rolled and studded with a gem stone.JEWELLERY ‡ ‡ ‡ Strands of pearls were main in all forms of jewellery. bracelets. ± KANAKA-KAMALA.full blown lotus design studded with ruby worn along with a dangler called JIMIKI NECKLACES ± HARA.

± NUPURA-Plain with suspended tinkling bells.tinkling Kanci with bells. ‡ Types. linked chain with pearls ‡ ANKLETS ± MANJIRA.Heavier looking coiling with tow ends enlarged at meeting point . ‡ ‡ MUKTAYAJNOPAVITA.snake.. angular top edge ‡ MEKHALA-Jewelled girdles of one or many strings. ± TULAKOTI. ‡ ARMLETS.JEWELLERY CONTD. BRACELETS ± VALAYA.Yajnopavita made of pearls.Loose hollow and light coiling along with gems inside the hollow that provided the tinkling sound.Bracelet made our of solid gold set with precious stones ± PHALAKAVALAYA. straight edge.Slab like gems set into bracelets.

WOMEN·S COSTUMES ATTENDANT VILLAGE WOMEN COURTIER .

Bar striped garment with Deer skin ‡ Top knot-heavy bundle ²JATABHARA ‡ Priest wore white cloth with red turban JAINS ‡ White robes .RELIGIOUS PERSON BUDDHIST ‡ Rich pieces (same color)of patchwork ‡ Symmetrically arranged (checks) HINDU ‡ VALKALA.

.Handles were of ivory and hilts of precious metal encrusted jewels. shield.MILITARY COSTUME ‡ ANDHRA SOLDIERS ± ± ± ‡ Wore an short antariya which was tucked in. axe and spear ± SWORD.Either curved and could have a sharp edge on one or both sides. ± ± SHIELD.iron.Made of wood or horn. ± Wide sash was worn on the waist ‡ Equipment. Cloth sash was either tied around the waist or crossed at the tchest for protection Occasionally wore earrings and simple jewels. BOW. bow string. FOREIGN SOLDIERS ± Wore heavy tunic with ruched sleeves. bow.reached knees along with churidar form of trousers. helmet and earflaps.sword.Rectangular to protect the body. bone. wood and had shafts of feather affixed in poison.

‡ A very cheap material made of hemp was worn by weavers and laborers ‡ Wool was woven into chaddars .TEXTILES AND DYES ‡ Coarse and fine varieties of cotton were available.

ASSIGNMENT ‡ Make a project on Satavahana period with illustrations displaying the people main area of design and stylization .

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