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Budapest
BY

day day
1st Edition

by Robert Smyth

A John Wiley and Sons, Ltd, Publication

Contents 15 Favorite Moments 1 The Best Full-Day Tours The Best in One Day 6 The Best in Two Days 12 The Best in Three Days 16 1 5 2 The Best Special-Interest Tours The Best Art Nouveau 22 The Best Baths 26 Turkish Traces 30 The Best Coffee Houses 34 Budapest with Kids 38 Revolutionary Budapest 40 Communist Budapest—Behind the Iron Curtain 44 21 3 The Best Neighborhood Walks Belváros 50 The Jewish Quarter 54 The Watertown (Víziváros) The Castle District 60 49 58 4 The Best Shopping 65 71 Shopping Best Bets 66 Budapest Shopping A to Z City Park 82 Buda Hills 86 Margaret Island 5 The Best of the Outdoors 81 88 6 The Best Dining 91 98 Dining Best Bets 92 Budapest Dining A to Z .

7 The Best Nightlife 109 116 Nightlife Best Bets 110 Budapest Nightlife A to Z 8 The Best Arts & Entertainment Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 126 Arts & Entertainment A to Z 130 125 9 The Best Lodging 135 140 Lodging Best Bets 136 Budapest Lodging A to Z 10 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 145 The Danube Bend 146 A Wine Country Detour 148 Lake Balaton 152 Pécs 154 Eger 156 The Savvy Traveler 159 Before You Go 160 Getting There 163 Getting Around 163 Fast Facts 164 Budapest: A Brief History 168 Useful Phrases & Menu Terms 169 Toll-free Numbers and Websites 173 Index 174 .

Visit our Home Page on www. The Publisher is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. Requests to the Publisher should be addressed to the Permissions Department. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. service marks. England Telephone (+44) 1243 779777 Email (for orders and customer service enquiries): cs-books@wiley. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN: 978-0-470-69758-0 Typeset by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Printed and bound in China by RR Donnelley 54321 . The Atrium. without the permission in writing of the Publisher. Saffron House. recording. If professional advice or other expert assistance is required. West Sussex PO19 8SQ. electronic.co.wiley. Southern Gate. except under the terms of the Copyright. No part of this publication may be reproduced. or faxed to (+44) 1243 770620. or emailed to permreq@wiley. London EC1N 8TS.co.uk. photocopying. Chichester.com All Rights Reserved. stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means.Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons Ltd. Southern Gate. the services of a competent professional should be sought. John Wiley & Sons Ltd. All brand names and product names used in this book are trade names. mechanical. England. It is sold on the understanding that the Publisher is not engaged in rendering professional services. Designations used by companies to distinguish their products are often claimed as trademarks. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter covered. 6-10 Kirby Street. scanning or otherwise. UK Publisher: Sally Smith Executive Project Editor: Daniel Mersey Commissioning Editor: Fiona Quinn Development Editor: Karen Fitzpatrick Content Editor: Erica Peters Cartography: SY Cartographics Photo Research: Jill Emeny Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats.uk. UK. The Atrium. West Sussex PO19 8SQ. Chichester. Designs and Patents Act 1988 or under the terms of a licence issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency Ltd. trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners.

neighborhood. They’re also open to suggestions from readers. These guides tell you the best of everything. If you’d like to contact them. most time-efficient way. please send your comments our way at feedback@frommers. The Day by Days are also your top choice if you’re looking for one complete guide for all your travel needs. and then they show you how to see it in the smartest. Other guides give you long lists of things to see and do and then expect you to fit the pieces together. the greatest shopping values. hotels. Warm regards. Our authors have designed detailed itineraries organized by time. the wildest nightlife—it’s all here. Kelly Regan. sample Hungary’s fine wines and hang out at the city’s hippest nightspots? Whatever your interest or schedule. And each tour comes with a bulleted map that takes you from stop to stop.com. The Day by Day guides are different. and restaurants. The best hotels and restaurants for every budget. That’s what this guide is all about. Why should you trust our judgment? Because our authors personally visit each place they write about. Not only do we take you to the top attractions. They’re an independent lot who say what they think and would never include places they wouldn’t recommend to their best friends. Enjoy your Day by Day guide—the most helpful travel companion you can buy. or special interest. the Day by Days give you the smartest routes to follow. and we’ll pass them on. And have the trip of a lifetime. but we also help you access those special moments that locals get to experience—those ‘finds’ that turn tourists into travelers. Hoping to tour the best in Habsburg and art nouveau ‘szecesszio’ architecture as well as see what traces the communists and Turks left behind? Looking to taste your way through Budapest’s burgeoning restaurant scene.A Note from the Editorial Director Organizing your time. Editorial Director Frommer’s Travel Guides .

We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. Many thanks to all of you who have accompanied me on the great adventure that has been Budapest during the last 15 years. From drinking with me in the dingiest of wine bars to devouring goose liver in the finest restaurants. you’re too many to mention but you know who you are. and special features using a starrating system. = P The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover DC Diners Club MC MasterCard V Visa . and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. amenities. we also use a icon to point out the best bets for families. restaurants. restaurant. He holds a degree in Economics from the UK. Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel. he likes to travel and taste wine. An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time— and this is especially true of prices. He has been living in Budapest for around 15 years during which time he’s seen certain aspects of the city change beyond recognition. Each of these stops appears in a shaded box marked with a coffee cup–shaped bullet . and nightlife are rated on a scale of zero stars (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). we recommend cafes. so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. attractions. value. he also writes columns on wine tasting for the local Englishlanguage press and is Business New Europe’s correspondent for Hungary. Acknowledgments For my partner Ágnes Molnár. editors. however. which he followed up with an MBA at Budapest’s former Karl Marx University only to find that writing holds more appeal than the world of business. Your safety is important to us. Hotels. The authors. the former with whom it was a pleasure to work with once again and the latter for the first time. but can still find enough old world and quirky charm to keep him there. Star Ratings. Within each tour. shopping. In addition to the star-rating system. I’d like to give a big thanks to the Molnár family for their ongoing support throughout. bars or restaurants where you can take a break. our son Alex. my mother Sylvia and late father Robert Snr. photographer Bianca Otero and the Frommer’s UK editorial team. and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality. When not writing about traveling or wine. service. He has written print and online guides respectively for the Blue Guides and Whatsonwhen.About the Author Robert Smyth is a Budapest-based British journalist who hails from the River Mersey directly across from Liverpool.

At Frommers. Use the following table to decipher the dollar signs: Cost $ $$ $$$ $$$$ $$$$$ Hotels under $100 $100–$200 $200–$300 $300–$400 over $400 Restaurants under $10 $10–$20 $20–$30 $30–$40 over $40 An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book.000 destinations.frommers. so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation. Inc. • Hoboken. Please write to: Frommer’s Budapest. too. NJ 07030-5774 .Frommers. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. 1st Edition Wiley Publishing. We’re sure you’ll find others. and more. we discovered many wonderful places—hotels.com Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip. shops. Please tell us about them.com for additional travel information on more than 4. • 111 River St. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. you’ll find scoops on the best airfares. visit our website at www. we have used a system of dollar signs to show a range of costs for 1 night in a hotel (the price of a double-occupancy room) or the cost of an entree (main meal) at a restaurant. and car rental bargains. we’d love to know that.com. Other popular features include: A Note on Prices In the ‘Take a Break’ and ‘Best Bets’ sections of this book. restaurants. lodging rates. Day by Day.

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15 Favorite Moments .

Nyugati NYUGATI zky Balaton PÁLYAUDVAR pályaudvar anic u. t k rú m kö ú u Múze kp kpa rt ee Ver u lné s s Pá ci Vác ád lgr B Be u.. rr u k ktá z zra K Kö 0. Mátyás OPERA M Arany Jáno Ernst templom . risz ASTORIA M tin Att a k ila ú Naphegy FERENCIEK 12 örú t M TERE tér Belvárosi Magyar TABÁN t Tabáni Ferences plébániatemplom Nemzeti templom plébániatemplom Múzeum NAPHEGY Tigris u Erzsébet ja út Rác . M iu Po nd LIPOTVAROS Szo i . A Avar 0 a só só r i u.5 km 9 . Ádám tér tér M FERENC TÉR yi u t Kár lén VÖRÖSMARTY M t u. s se oly Budavári Alagú TÉR We kör a ú 5 7 palota út Ge t Nagy llé rth BELVÁROS zsinagóga zi út eg c yu K Rákó . At ú Fő út út a Pa lott rt rt k a akp s r allsó e i Pest al dai Bud á Vác . BATTHYÁNY Lajos tér H M Báthory u. yu ry g ge .. k rak a R Rád art pa u u. . Szem Lukács gyógyfürdő MARGIT HÍD Ró zsa he Gül Baba 2 türbeje gy u . yi Iré Varsán Ma rg u... u. ru Úri t tila Nádor u. Honvéd u. au olt 7 8 9 10 11 12 Császár gyógyfürdő lőheg y u. Apostol u. Klauzál M Pa Kr ZSILINSZKY ÚT Disz isz ály Széchenyi tér tér tin Ki r tér Clark lánchíd ak 15 Erzsébet DEÁK örú .. . t Szt y y u. István e u Múzeum Bazílíka Ed lay u BAJCSY Roosevelt u.. ro u áros M Mész u u. sen s u t Cs tvös t ú rú Eö k kö . Szt. m d . u é réz k i u T Te Jóka Bajcsy Zsilinszky út Néprajzi Csalogány u.2 15 Favorite Moments 15 Favorite Moments SZÉPVÖLGYI H 13 ÚT 1 2 3 4 5 6 Great Market Hall Gyul Baba utca Széchenyi Baths Budapest’s Thermal Baths View of Pest from Buda Palace View from Margaret Island Buda Palace Rudás Baths Statue Park Budapest’s Kert “Garden” Bars Opera House Museum Káveház Sziget Festival (Hajógyárisziget) Castle District Jewish District e el L nk Fra eó ú e ó út Szeréna ú t Zsigmond tér Árpád Fejedelem útja Margitsziget Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti sportuszoda 10 Sar . gyal híd He gyógyfürdő KÁLVIN M Rudas TÉR 8 gyógyfürdő Information t rú GELLÉRTHEGY kö M Metro Station áz mh Vá HÉV Station H 1 Vásárcsarnok Citadella Szabadság Thermal Bath híd Sziklatemplom Gellért 4 0 1/2 mi gyógyfürdő Do bu . Na y gy VÍZIVÁROS Operaház ARANY M 11 JÁNOS UTCA s u. TÉR KOSSUTH M LAJOS TÉR u. á c Sán . VÁ 14 Szabadság tér OKTOGON M 3 m e ez Hold u. Múzeum Országház Kossuth Toldy Ferenc Batthyány u. Fő ú t Budai alsó rakpart Margit tér H Margit körút 6 13 14 Margit híd Duna (D anube) Jászai Mari tér Pesti alsó rakpart Balassi B álint u . őu B Bem rakpart k rakpart Széchenyi ra Halászbástya Liszt Ferenc tér . 15 Király t gyógyfürdő örú tk n u. yu .G r r e ellé t ra art k kp ya Lóny u.

B 1 Great Market Hall. 2 Gyül Baba utca. named after the dervish who brought the rose to Buda. 6 Standing in the middle of the River Danube on Margaret Island and looking downstream to 3 Széchenyi Baths. including myriad buildings from the last great expansion phase of the Habsburg Empire. I never get bored of taking the number 2 tram winding past Parliament. See p 31. and steam and feeling as good as new. See p 61. impressive waterfront buildings and down the river with the Castle District and Gellért Hill directly opposite on the way to buy ‘Hungaricums’ at the Great Market Hall. . Relaxing in the neo-Baroque Széchenyi baths. See p 13 & 27. sauna. See p 26. See p 17. Being transported back to Turkish Budapest when climbing up the steep and narrow Gyul Baba utca. but many of my favorite moments are spent exploring the nooks and crannies that lie between the great edifices. It’s the ideal way to clear the cobwebs of the city’s nightlife excesses.3 15 Favorite Moments udapest is a destination packed with impressive sights. Pay your respects at his tomb. drinking unique wines in funky bars in disused townhouse courtyards to exploring the city’s Communist past. Budapest has many magic moments to savor. switching between steaming hot and ice-cold pools. It’s best in the morning as the city rolls into work opposite or lit up at night when the city folk start to play. 4 Relaxing in the waters at any one of Budapest’s classic thermal baths. 5 View of Pest from Buda Palace. Taking continental Europe’s oldest underground that shunts under swish Andrássy út then soaking up the atmosphere at the neo-Baroque Széchenyi baths. Gazing down in amazement at buzzing Pest from the relative tranquility—depending on how many tourists are accompanying you—of the Buda Palace across the river. From bathing in atmospheric thermal baths.

particularly significant. $ Exploring the old cobbled narrow streets of the Castle District between Táncsics Mihály utca and Tóth Árpád sétány that are off the beaten track. I find the replica of Stalin’s boots. I enjoy mingling with the country’s leading wine makers and drinking their fine wines in the splendor of Buda’s Royal Palace—the best way to enjoy the castle.4 15 Favorite Moments 9 Contemplating the pillars of Communist society that once imposed themselves across the city but are now confined to the Statue Park. % Feeling the buzz and ambience of the Jewish District. See p 8. Feeling downright decadent— and very glad to live in Hungary after the winter is all but a memory—at one of the city’s Kert ‘Garden’ summer bars. . See p 54. 0 Budapest’s Kert ‘Garden’ Bars. 7 Buda Palace. Parliament on one side and the Castle District on the other. # Sipping a beer while taking a ferry down the Danube to rock till I drop at the Sziget Festival. Great for taking time out from the bustling city and enjoying a bit of green relief. See p 88. which despite having seen a lot of adversity is still hanging on as buildings are bulldozed all around. See p 161. The plush surroundings at the Opera House. and then hopping back on the ferry well after sunrise. left behind when his statue was torn down at Felvonulási tér (Hungary’s answer to Red Square). For a touch of refined hedonism. See p 60. See p 46. 8 Basking in the central pool at the Rudas Baths with the sunlight beaming in through the cupola. See p 121. See p 27. ! Drinking bubbly on the balcony of the Opera House during a break after marveling at the plush surroundings and wondering how the main chandelier can possibly stay up. There I love having one last Unicum and some pastry as the city starts to wake up. See p 61. part of the Memento Park. @ The tranquility of dawn and the power of the city’s fin-de-siècle architecture from the terrace of the Museum Káveház after a long night out.

1 The Best Full-Day Tours .

zeka Medve u. lla be Isa . réz kai u Te Jó H M BATTHYÁNY TÉR Vérm me ző ő Honvéd u. au u. Margit körút iu . a ztin Kris rút kö ti u ná Do gy Vadász u. z Gé 3 Opera House nd Margit tér ona i út za u a Margit híd Kat K Kres Vác c lós u. Fő út Bem rakpart Moszkva tér Csalogány u. Nádor u. Akadémi rt ó rakpa Budai als Fő út út k ör u. .6 The Best Full-Day Tours R 1 Heroes Square nót i Mik MARGIT HÍD Rad 1 M Hősök tere HŐSÖK M Műcsarnok TERE 2 a ón l-R ipp 2 Millennium Underground . yB r kel Me Szé ei ny Szi u. m . Istv án kör út a dm Po BAJZA And UTCA Jászai Mari tér Westend City Center nic zky rás sy út Józ sef u. Kir ba lánchíd H . iu od og K p t y án u. . áb lib Dé M Hopp Ferenc Kelet-Ázsiai Múzeum rö D Duna (D anube) a u. . len eth ten ge en Cs rty bo Gá ry u. Falk M iiksa u. et fa éb u. ny út u. Ke au . . t Fiá hJ án u os Na . Alkotmán 6 Kossuth re u. M . Lo ov a ag c u. Ó Ó u. u. István tér Ár L Ernst Múzeum Magyar ád Bazílíka Múzeum út sét DÉLI M Tudományos sy 5 Vérmező PÁLYAUDVAR ÁLYAUDVAR rás Information Akadémia yi u. ly há Mi sy ác nk Mu . ácf Ak zál u u Kla il Att aú Október 6. r u. Pa ra i alsó Pest A r kpa t . y u Széchenyi ler ly Rum t Várszínház á Múzeum DEÁK FERENC BLAHA Ádám tér u. 7 tér tér ak pályaudvar lló z József Attila S Metro Station M Elektrotechnikai örú Pau Clark ÚT u. u. HÉV Station TÉR M ch u.25 km Történeti Múzeum BELVÁROS Do bu . Bajcsy Zsilinszky út Bajcsy Zsilinszky út akpart rakpart The Best in One Day Széchenyi Krisztina körút A ko Allkotás u. az s . Vö Nyugati NYUGATI pályaudvar M Honvéd PÁLYAUDVAR örg Bem Bem József tér József u. Anna bin ly ika M OKTOGON Templom irá ós em J K D Szabadság . út t rko Gyorkocsi u. iná rd Fe rakpart 4 Callas Szt.. u. TÉR oly ss e l há Krisztina Alag cu kör We Do lot palota Magyar Nemzeti ren út Nagy tér aú Fe 0 1/4 mi t ák Galéria ttil t Fővárosi zsinagóga czi ú De aú Rákó Önkormányzat t Budapesti 0 0. Stephen’s Basilica Balaton u. nu jza ala Ba ert se u. Néprajzi Múzeum Országház y u. yu art sm 8 The Castle District Pestii a ta lsó rakpa rt rt Ba a Balla ssi Bálin t t u. s örö u jós Rot ma . KOSSUTH M u. árs Erzs sz H rté . u.. Lajos tér Kálmán Im Báthory u. Kodály Zoltán or Emlémúzeum ti fas e slig áro V Eö Baj z . sa u. Fazekas u. er u bill u. MOSZKVA TÉR M Toldy Feren t rú kö . M ch tér Liszt Ferenc ani Terror mj Emlémúzeum Da Háza Várfok u. ks tér LIPOTVAROS Szo i nd Sz ív s tvö VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA u. u u. szk LAJOS TÉR Szt. d Zrín An Kr Roosevelt Post Office iz Klauzál M BAJCSY Disz Déli tér Ho inc tin ZSILINSZKY u. Hadtörténeti bu tér 8 VÍZIVÁROS Múzeum Do Liszt ARANY VÁ Halászbástya JÁNOS UTCA M 3 Operaház Ferenc tér Mátyás Tó Corvin s u. yú t u. z Ró lla be Isa a u. u. ív Sz 6 Parliament Budai a só Budai allsó 7 Chain Bridge Király gyógyfürdő TEREZVÁROS Kodály Körönd KODÁLY M KÖRÖND u. zs Dó híd y aG 5 St. th templom Bélyeg4 M OPERA Arany Jáno Szt. őu ez Ha V B Hold u. Lövölde u. yu Oktogon Hunyadi tér u. LUJZA TÉR VÖRÖSMARTY M yi u Budavári Kár én u.

and they appear to be kept in check by Archangel Gabriel. 2 ★★ = Millennium Underground. in 896AD. A statue of Árpád leads these seven heathen horsemen. @ 30 min. Built in 1896 to celebrate a millennium of Magyar presence. who presides over them from the top of the central column.000th anniversary of Magyar presence in Hungary. START: Take the M1 Millennium Underground to Hósök tere. directly down the elegant Andrássy út (boulevard)— which I recommend you walk down on Day 2 (p 14.7 The Best in One Day H ere. when Hungary had finally found peace and prosperity. nowadays Heroes Square is a popular place with skateboarders—oblivious to the significance of their country’s heroes—and with rightwingers who use it as a backdrop for rallies. who converted Hungary to Christianity on Christmas Day in the year 1000AD. 1 ★★★ = Heroes Square (Hósök tere). I’m taking you on an action-packed tour that will leave you in awe of Budapest’s architectural magnificence and magnitude. just under street level. Get off at Oktogon to see one of Budapest’s several centers where Andrássy út meets the Nagy körút (the Great The central column in Heroes Square is guarded by seven Magyar tribe leaders. Get on at the Hósök tere stop and be whisked. bullet 4). Hósök tere at crossing of Andrássy út and Dózsa György út. The key protagonists are strikingly introduced as a series of imposing statues. The central column is guarded by the seven Magyar tribe leaders who. Metro: M1 to Hósök tere. comprising present-day Hungary and beyond. The founding fathers are flanked by heroes including Szent (Saint) István. stormed into the Carpathian basin. which opened in 1896 to coincide with the 1. Take a ride on continental Europe’s oldest metro. . Particularly noteworthy is the architecture of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. as well as perennial thorns in Habsburg Austria’s side like Rákóczi and Kossuth. and all-conquering Kings Béla IV and Mátyás Corvinus. There’s no better place to start getting your head around the turbulent history of Hungary than Heroes Square.

Entrance at end of Andrássy út at crossing of Andrássy út and Dózsa György út. Be warned that the supersteep cheap seats are not for sufferers of vertigo. Liszt and Bartok.html. The neo-Renaissance style of the exterior is all semi-circular arches and columns. or stay on one more stop to Opera. Metro: M1 to Hósök tere.8 The Best Full-Day Tours Take a ride on continental Europe’s oldest metro. . 3 ★★★ Opera House. After London’s underground system. but check ahead as tours may be cancelled due to rehearsals. Andrássy út 22. Single journey ticket Ft 270. @ 15 min. flank the main entrance. this is the next oldest in the world and the stations in particular retain the fin-de-siècle feel. First metro 4:36am. Step inside and the style changes dramatically to neo-classical with the walls and ceiling adorned by lavish works from leading Hungarian artists of the day. three-tonne chandelier was imported from Germany. and is symmetrically topped off by statues of idols of Hungarian opera. If you can.bkv. Exclusive Hungarian participation was deemed crucial in establishing the home of Hungarian opera. on righthand side of Andrássy út if looking from Heroes Square. The Opera House. while statues of the two Hungarian musical greats. including Gyula Benczúr and Bertalan Székely. @ 15 min.hu/ metro/metro1. 45 min if you take the tour. I suggest you look now but come back and experience the Opera House in all its glory by catching a performance. The Miklós Ybl-designed Opera House provides the sumptuous veneer to classy Andrássy út. www. last 11:20pm. although the scary but magnificent-looking goldplated. Boulevard).

Architect József Kauser was called in and dragged Budapest’s biggest church over the finishing line in 1905. the former ticket office of the neighboring Opera. Stephen’s Basilica. like the Parliament’s dome. Andrássy út 20. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm. A massive restoration project was completed in 2003 and the gleaming marble is the result of the application of 200kg of beeswax. Mathematically minded Hungarians love dealing in numbers and. a year St. Treasury Ft 400. has been superbly spruced up by the noted British designer David Collins in an engaging blend of finde-siècle and Art Deco.hu. While Callas is a serious dining venue with a decent sushi bar. who both died during the prolonged 54-year construction. This. perhaps the roof wouldn’t have fallen in! The almost 1. Free Admission to Basilica. y 1/317-2859. $$. Another great Hungarian hero Ferenc Puskás. Building this Budapest landmark proved a job too far for defining Hungarian architects József Hild and Miklós Ybl. which can be viewed through the large arched windows. Sat–Sun 10am–4pm.hu.9 The Best in One Day y 153-0170 for tickets. Metro: M1 to Opera. as a tribute to the Magyar settlement of Hungary in 896. it also does great Hungarian and international breakfasts. Szent István tér 33. 332-8197 for tours. Had they arrived a few years earlier. M3 to Arany János utca. homemade pastries and cakes.000-year-old withered hand of St.400). 5 ★★★ St. An elevator is on hand to whisk you up to near the top for sweeping views of Buda and Pest. Stephen.opera. performances vary. Hungary’s first King. Stephen’s Basilica. Ft 2.600 (discount Ft 1. www. was laid to rest here in 2006. Tours at 3pm and 4pm daily. www. 4 ★★ Callas. The project literally hit rock bottom when the dome collapsed in 1868. .basilica. as well as sandwiches. the talisman of the Magical Magyars and Real Madrid goal machine. after Hild’s death. @ 1 hr. y 1/354-0954. tower Ft 500. Szent István’s stands 96m/315ft high. Metro: M1 to BajcsyZsilinszky út. is displayed in the Szent Jobb Chapel.

and early 20th-century buildings and hidden squares. a gift from the Pope to King (now Saint) István (Stephen) in the year 1000 to thank him for signing up Hungary to Catholicism.hu. I have written this guide with that in mind but I suggest you always take a little time to look up and around as you piece together the Budapest jigsaw. Buy tickets at gate X. Kossuth tér 1–3. While it was once the biggest Parliament in the world when it opened for business in 1896. the building has lost none of its opulence. the grandiose gold-plated interior and red-carpeted staircases do nothing to instill any form of collective unity between the polarized politicians. English tours at 10am.320). 15 min viewing from outside.10 The Best Full-Day Tours The dome in architect Imre Steindl’s Paliament. you can almost feel the steam rising as you enter. Watch out for protestors outside calling for the current Prime Minister’s head. The magic of Budapest can also be found in tiny details such as the gargoyles or decorative motifs that adorn the plethora of striking late 18th. . Tour free for EU citizens. enquire ahead via internet as Parliament is closed when in session & turn up 10 min before the tour begins.mkogy. y 1/ 441-4000. I encourage you to step off the beaten path as and when the mood takes you. www. Look out for the Hungarian crown. to which the opposition actually shows up. Budapest is visually impressive in every direction both deviating from and all along the main route of this particular tour. which features the not-to-be-missed element of the Hungarian capital. While much like any Parliament. other nationalities Ft 2.640 (students Ft 1. Off the Beaten Track While Budapest is blessed with many outstanding sights. 6 ★★★ Parliament. should you happen to enter the chamber after a debate. Architect Imre Steindl’s mostly neo-Gothic extravaganza dominates Pest’s waterfront and bucks the Gothic trend with the 96m/315ft-high dome at its center. @ 1 hr for tour. The exceedingly long corridors of power.

battered. during Hungary’s War of Independence with Austria and fortunately survived an immediate botched attempt to blow it up. It’s also still the best and most scenic way of traversing the Danube to get from Parliament and Pest’s old town to the Castle District. @ 20 min. The Chain Bridge opened in 1849. Connects Roosevelt tér with Clark Adám tér. Funicular in the Castle District. . something that the more efficient Germans managed when retreating from occupying the city in 1945. 7 ★★★ = Chain Bridge. an Englishman. This. Bombed. the pick of Budapest’s varied bridges. and rebuilt many times throughout the centuries. Come back at night when it and the Royal Palace are The Chain Bridge.11 The Best in One Day 12am. burnt. Bus 16/105 or Tram 2. Matthias Church dramatically portray Hungary’s trials and tribulations.) @ 2 hr. setting in motion their eventual unification. 8 ★★★ The Castle District. (See p 60 for a complete tour of this historically rich district. and Adam. each with the name of Clark: William. both lit up dramatically. and 2pm daily. an anglophile Hungarian Count who sought to bring rural Hungary into the modern age. the Royal Palace and St. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tér. he employed two designers to build the ornate bridge. The brainchild of István Széchenyi. Bus 16 to Dísz tér. isn’t just an architectural marvel but is the first permanent bridge that linked Buda with Pest. It was soon rebuilt and reopened on its centenary in the original style. I suggest you wander the district at your leisure to soak up the history of the place and return later for a more in-depth tour. a Scot.

yu Blaha Köztársaság hán Do Nagy Lujza tér tér 7 zsinagóga óczi út Rókus k Kórház Rá Nép szính áz u. a aro F Fuv a y Nag ra ra u. . Kórház KELETI ny Klauzál M tér há Kerepesi út PÁLYAUDVAR . a R Rád y y u.. ma ö yu rös ry V Vö g ge He .25 km 1/4 mi Állatkert SZÉCHENYI M FÜRDŐ 1 M LEHEL TÉR Lehel tér MÁV Kórház Szépmivészeti Múzeum 3 Kó sK áro ly Széchenyi fürdő y tán Sé s zsa Dó y örg G Gy út Városliget u.Kórház rfy S Ernst sel te Múzeum öko es plébániatemplom Pé Múzeum Th W u. iu n na -ó u. bu Do Mária u. nyi .. Elektrotechnikai rédj Beze BLAHA Múzeum M LUJZA TÉR . József körút Mária u.12 The Best Full-Day Tours The Best in Two Days 0 0 0. áll uz Kla u. or u bo Gá r . Józse Józsefvárosi plébániatemplom Horváth Mihály tér 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Széchenyi Fürdő Baths Vajdahunyad Castle Fine Arts Museum Andrássy út Lukács Cukrázda Terror House Great Synagogue Applied Arts Museum JÓZSEFVÁROS Nap u. zu sz c ácf ó Diió t rté u. elé út e ss óczi W Rák u. ck Fecs ályi ályi u. Bajj za u u. Erz Kiis A Ak K Ke t rút et et kö s séb . Istv Sz ob út Bethlen D Liszt sy ás Gábor tér Ferenc tér dr u. Magyar Nemzeti Múzeum m u. Be eu y lly ers Me éke eii Szé u. Metro Station Krúdy u. s zsa Ró d Po u. ö r ry rös . Hősök Vajdahunyad 2 tere vára HŐSÖK M TERE Műcsarnok 4 Szo . la Béla u. Erzsébet Keleti ál y Kir Baross pályaudvar u. bu Felvonulási tér Dó TEREZVÁROS KODÁLY M KÖRÖND Kodály körönd Kodály Zoltán Emlémúzeum Sz ív u.. jos u a ai La Toln u Vig u. e llen eh Bet C Cse . ge V Vö su sen v tvö Cs E Eö z zsa o Vár G Gy ö örg t y yú 5 Terror Háza 6 m Da ich jan u. f u. er u bill nb tte Rot u u. k Jó Jókai M OKTOGON u.. s Cs .. ny ok u S Szi . s . Múzeu Szabó Ervin Könyvtar Üll Gutenburg u. yu Lövölde BM erd M VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA tér Központi Pet Liszt Ferenc Kórház ERZSÉBETVÁROS Emlémúzeum Hunyadi f u. A Auró e u. e Fe nd Kálvin tér híd n nd iiná rd . y u. ika are út M a án tér Jós ófi u. rán u du rná u. su jcs felle N Ne en Há rsf u au . Baross u. Vas u in Puskin u s u. Erzsébet. Erkel M KÁLVIN TÉR u.. jn Ba zív u S u. Horánszky u. An u. t rty . Sz Szentkir s . l-R lly pp Rip iihá yM sy . Péterfy . zky nic ma Szo nd iu . M ASTORIA Information . au u. iu k k é rréz T Te Ka út örr Petőfi Csarnok á út lib sy Dé ás dr AnHopp Ferenc BAJZA UTCA M Kelet-Ázsiai Múzeum or fas eti slig . Rákóczi tér Miksa tér Déri Post Office M ú Múze t rút m ö um k u. ó e Józs me ú iú t B Bacsó s . or ray t yi u ánd Ga Bélyegén ly ú Szt. tér Do nc iu zy ny u. Oktogon zse tér u.. ői ú t Práter u. zsa R Ró lla u a e sb Is a t tu r rhá u Mu u u. Iparművészeti 8 Múzeum M FERENC KÖRÚT .. F Fiu u f u. K Kiss u. au e ell sb Isa u. fa u Há z zi s rsf Os u au t zát . á ác n nk au jza M Mu Ba u u. t rty ma u. a lan r rta .

Alternate between hot and cold pools. @ 2 hr. 2 ★ = Vajdahunyad Castle.13 The Best in Two Days fter a hard day of major sightseeing on Day 1. Vajdahunyad had been transformed into a collection of stone replicas representing treasured creations from right across the Magyar realm. from which steam dramatically rises in the cold of winter as locals play chess. take the plunge and relax in one of Budapest’s world-renowned thermal baths. it’s hard to believe that this fairly authentic-looking folly was once made out of cardboard and dates back barely a century. Állatkerti körút 11. then get out and about again to uncover some of the unique buildings that reflect the country’s varied and troubled past. Ft 2.800 with cabin (partial refunds for finishing within Take a dip in the therapeutic Széchenyi Fürdó Baths. The whirly pool is great for kids. both in present-day .400 with locker. which will leave you seriously sleepy. Come early to avoid the crowds. The most luxurious pool is the outdoor semi-circular one. Vajdahunyad Castle went up as a temporary structure as part of the Magyar millennium celebrations in 1896. The therapeutic waters of this neo-Baroque bathing bonanza will revitalize tired joints and set you up for a fulfilling day. By 1908. Looking at it now. 3 hr). saunas. A 1 ★★★ = Széchenyi Fürdó Baths. 6am–10pm daily. Metro: M1 to Széchenyi Fürdó. especially in summer. Particularly prominent are the ramparts facing the lake from Vajdahunyad Castle and Sighi@oara’s clocktower. Vajdahunyad Castle. Ft 2. 2 hr. That’s providing you don’t spend all your time being slow cooked in the hot pools. while still admiring its architectural beauty. and steam rooms and take some time out in the mediumtemperature pools or just chill out on a deckchair. y 1/363-3210. START: Take the M1 or ‘Millennium Underground’ to Széchenyi Fürdó. depicting the various Hungarian architectural styles over the centuries.

4 Walk up Andrássy út. an arts center and restaurant. with El Greco. painted in the late 16th century. The Best Full-Day Tours 5 @ 1 ⁄ –2 hr. while Velázquez’s early work Peasants Around a Table. being away from the madding crowd at Andrássy út 70. @ 30 min. Zurbarán and Goya all represented. Overlooking Heroes Square. Dózsa György út 41. Grab a coffee and a cake or snack at this tastefully restored coffee house that excels in freshly made cakes and pastries and is more laid back than most. Walking from Heroes Square (p 7. which is also particularly strong in Spanish masters. Murillo. is set to heavenly clouds and bright lights (it has a twin in the Prado set to an architectural background). magically preserves the timehonored tradition of getting stuck into conversation over a few drinks. Cano.14 Romania. Lukács Cukrázda. El Greco’s Annunciation. a striking square of faded but ornately painted town houses. Ribera. Ft 1. including Kogart. bullet 1) the first stretch is lined with luxurious villas. 6 ★★★ Terror House. Seen by many as an affront to the re-spun . but further examination is rewarding. $. The cutting edge museum at Terror House.200. A tour de force in European art from the 13th to the late 18th centuries. Further up. this visually impressive museum caused controversy with its highly politicized opening in 2002. Come early when major 1 2 temporary exhibitions are running. y 1/469-7100. You are more than likely to have explored portions of this. many of which found their way here.szepmuveszeti. Metro: M1 Hósök tere. 3 ★★ Fine Arts Museum (Szépmüvészeti Múzeum). Tues–Sun 10am–5:30pm. It’s funny how both the Fascists and the Communists both favored this location on classy Andrássy út to do their worst. @ 30 min. dated around 1619. An address that seems to be cursed. Andrássy út is traversed by Kodály körönd. Velázquez. the grandest of Budapest’s boulevards on Day 1 when checking out the Opera House. Metro: M1 to Hósök tere/Széchenyi Fürdó. www. lovers of Madrid’s Prado gallery will see similarities with this collection. The mighty Habsburgs who once ruled as far as Spain and the Netherlands acquired an astonishing collection of impressive art works.hu.

@ 1 hr. Moorish and Byzantine influences. and the trip to the cells and gallows. who also worked on the building’s plans with secessionist sidekick Gyula Pártos. 8 ★★★ = Applied Arts Museum.400. Ft 1. Tues–Sun 10am– 6pm. Tivadar Herzl (p 55.hu. The impressive entrance to the Applied Arts Museum.hu. Andrássy út 60. With its onion domes. Lechner.15 The Best in Two Days synagogue not only pioneered a new style of Jewish architecture. coming into power in 1944. Accordingly. to the pictures of victims and their jailors. which once ruled Hungary with an iron fist but has changed beyond recognition. and the bright green and gold Zsolnay tiles that adorn the roof and dome are more Oriental than European. Metro: M3 to Ferenc körút.houseof terror. Üllói út 33–37. I can’t help but feel indignation. traces of architectural styles from as far afield as India can be detected. However. www.imm. Hungarian Socialist Party. adding Hungarian folk touches and emphasizing certain eastern influences on Hungary. The Great Synagogue. Budapest’s answer to Gaudí. Dohány utca 2. www. it also spawned the father of modern Zionism who was born here. @ 1–11⁄2 hr. it was even sponsored by the then Fidesz Prime Minister Victor Orbán. For a tour of the interior go to the dedicated Special Interest Art Nouveau Tour (see p 25. including temporary exhibitions. the industrial and dark classical soundtrack. bullet @).500. Politics aside. created a Hungarian take on the Art Nouveau movement. genuine exhibits including Hungarian Nazi Arrow Cross uniforms. You might have encountered this remarkable-looking Art Nouveau masterpiece by Ödön Lechner. 7 ★★ Great Synagogue. but what a gruesome year that was. y 1/456-5100. Cynics’ claims are backed up by the fleeting coverage of Fascist Hungary and the much denser coverage of the red terror. on behalf of their archrivals Fidesz. Budapest’s great . bullet 1). Sat–Sun 10am–7pm. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty utca. y 1/374-2600. if you took the road in from the airport. Ft 2. the fascist Hungarian Arrow Cross Party ran the country for only a year. Tues–Fri 10am– 6pm. Combined ticket. with the previously protected Jewish population being shipped off in droves to concentration camps. @ 15 min. from the Russian tank that greets you. film footage and interviews. Metro: M2 to Astoria.

ci u Vác r do á án ffi S ető Pe u. l gr Be . tér Erzsébet híd t tó ú Saj ad Szab . á Kirá ii V Vác rr u n llna é é P ln s Pá ee Ve r lyi P u. su ava ty Bás . . Erzsébet tér ály Kir M FERENC TÉR DEÁK u. aú nt e tilla b bre At Dö u. V Fővám tér há ám t örú zk 3 Vásárcsarnok 4 Sziklatemplom 6 Szabadság híd t 7 Csarnok tér Information Post Office M iú hegy Kelen Szt. au Dun i u.16 The Best Full-Day Tours The Best in Three Days Széchenyi lánchíd Eötvös tér József Attila József nádor tér u. FERENCIEK TERE M Belvárosi plébániatemplom Március 15. u. rány I Mo Ferenciek tere Ady Endre Emlékhaz Koss Ferences templom ajos uth L u. Ho lló u. Szt kp a art nu b be ) ) Pe s sti r art kp ak ór a als m m ee yet e eg M Mű a art ap rak . VÖRÖSMARTY TÉR M 1 mb ach r ro Do Deák Ferenc tér u. r ru a ya Mag Egyetemi Könyvtár Do Petőfi Irodalmi Múzeum erb Döbrentei tér Szt. D Du ( ( n na Da a t ra llér Ge z. 0. t rt p pa r rak á ád u. s i allsó t kpar rakp Kár o z cz a i A Apá Já Já sere Cse u u nos . Ru Vörösmarty tér ly k örú t Vigadó tér Fővárosi Önkormányzat Szervita V áro tér shá zu .. ál u .25 km bu . Vácii t p par rak a ó i al s t t u a Bud i u. 2 rlóc zy u Nagy zsinagóga BELVÁROS ASTORIA M . á ál u. . Gellért tér Metro Station Boat Pier Gellért gyógyfürdő 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Café Gerbaud Mánnyoki út la út Bart ó Great Market Hall Szabadság Bridge Gellért Hill Cave Church Gellért Baths Budafoki út Váci utca k Bé Szkéne Színház 0 0 1/4 mi u. Ge i po Rég Petőfi tér sta u. y ttya e Pest Bé Bécsi u. au Só u. Gellért Emlékmű 5 u. ry P Nyá Sz Rudas gyógyfürdő Szerb templom GELLÉRTHEGY Citadella H ..

which often has something going on and hosts a Christmas market. Walk through the underpass that connects the two sides of Váci utca. taking in everything from designer boutiques. Your biggest decision here will be to work out where to sit to take it all in. START: M1 to Vörösmarty tér or Tram 2 to Vigadó tér and walk for two minutes in the opposite direction of the river. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér. A 1 ★ Café Gerbaud. The shopping street continues on the other side of Szabadsajtó út. You may feel like you’re walking through an Impressionist painting when the sunlight shines into this beautifully restored king of neighborhood Café Gerbaud. international cities. 3 ★★ Great Market Hall. where the vibe is less frenetic. most of them offer a somewhat modest selection in comparison to other . 9am–9pm. then you have come to the right place (see p 77). Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér (starting point). Souvenir shops also abound. if the wealth of chandeliers. Try morning coffee and cake at one of the plushest of the city’s illustrious coffee houses. here we start with a coffee at one of Budapest’s most luxurious coffee houses. though with steep price tags. marble tables. Starting from Vörösmarty tér. but legend has it that young men indicated their availability to well-heeled ladies of pleasure by tipping an excessive amount of sugar into their coffee. and food markets. In summer. y 1/429-9020. Vörösmarty tér 7. and stucco ceilings gets a bit much.17 The Best in Three Days fter a lot of pacing the streets in Days 1 and 2. However. This tour also gives you the option of ending the day with a swim and a thermal bathe to soothe the joints after scaling the dizzy heights of Gellért Hill. From Vörösmarty tér to Vámház körút. you’ll find most big international fashion brands from Zara and Mango to Jackpot and H&M. This is not the place I would choose to start the day every day—the ornate interior can be a bit over the top—but I find it tasteful enough in small doses to be an ideal treat. 2 ★★ = Váci utca. but if you are into embroidered tablecloths and folk art. Even those who are not shopaholics can easily take in this relatively short shopping street and surrounding area. folk art shops. fine wood paneling. @ 45 min. followed by a spot of shopping. Coffee culture is about not only reading papers and devouring Gerbaud’s renowned Esterházy and Dobos cakes. @ 1 hr. Keep an eye out on the side streets for high-end designers. take to the terrace and sit out on Vörösmarty tér.

but hey. However. as they consider every part of the animal fair game for the pot. Starts where Pest’s Vámház körút meets the Danube. markets. @ 30 min–1 hr. who actually knocked the last rivet into it.18 The Best Full-Day Tours catfish crammed in tanks on fish ‘death row’ downstairs are an uncomfortable sight for some. . Buda and Pest are seamlessly connected by this bright green piece of intricate ironwork that joins the Pest’s Great Market Hall and its neighbor the Budapest University of Economics (formerly the Karl Marx University) with the Gellért Hotel and the dramatic Gellért Hill of Buda. There are plenty of nibbles to be eaten upstairs. 4 Walk across Szabadság Bridge. Sat 6am–3pm. Tram: 2/47/49 to Fövám tér. The array of meat on sale shows just how thrifty Hungarians are. It was opened by Emperor Franz Joseph in 1896. The carp and The Gellért Hotel. Tram: 47/49 to Kálvin tér. and upstairs look out for folklore and handicrafts hidden among the mountains of tourist goods. Vámház körút 1–3. many locals come here to shop for fresh food and it’s bustling with life and color. Tues–Fri 6am–6pm. y 1/366-3300. @ 10 min. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér. salami. There are plenty of foodstuffs like paprika. it’s far from a museum piece. Tinned paprika displayed in the Great Market Hall. Mon 6am–5pm. at least they’re fresh. and goose liver to take home.

The Gellért Statue captures the saint preaching defiantly but precariously on the edge of the hill. It dates back to 1904 and is the work of Hungarian sculptor Gyula Jankovits (1865–1920). The three-level bunker inside the Citadel has waxworks and photos chronicling the Siege of Budapest. Min e rv a u. Gellért 5A emlékmű Döbrentei tér . Keresz ja út al Hegy Sá nc Március 15. Follow the path up and you reach the Citadel L that the Austrians.25 km irte s To find the Gellért Statue K walk upstream towards the Erzsebet Bridge where you will see the steps leading up. Close by and at the peak of the hill. te tei u t rn ú ú bre D Dö tiilla At Tabáni plébániatemplom t u. atop the hill pointing at the Hungarians below. tér Erzsébet híd Rác gyógyfürdő n lna Mo Szt. Budapest’s very own statue of liberty. although German occupying forces utilized it in World War II. who participated in spreading the gospel in 11thcentury Hungary on King Stephen’s request. smarting from the Hungarian Revolution of 1848. u. Gellért t tér g yi ú lenhe Ke Gellért gyógyfürdő . 5A 5B 5C Gellért Hill At t Kri ila ú szt ina t kör út TABÁN Semmelweis Orvostörténeti Múzeum Gellért Statue Citadella Freedom Statue at par ra rak s llsó a ai a B Bud . Featuring a woman proffering the palm branch of triumph and not overtly Soviet-looking. Ultimately. There wasn’t much use for it after they patched up their differences in 1867. The Austrians then built a Citadel from which to lord it over the Magyars (see p 19). G Szt t rt p pa r rak ért ellé e) Citadella Sz Szabadságszobor Jubileumi park Pipacs u. Szir te sú u Du a na ub an (D GELLÉRTHEGY 5B 5C t. Orom Rudas gyógyfürdő art kp rak t Bérc u. Christianity won through with Gellért canonized in 1083. This imposing hill that towers over the Pest waterfront of the Danube has been used to good effect to suppress forces for change. built. Sziklatemplom Szabadság híd 1/4 mi Szt.. út Church Boat Pier Thermal Bath 0 0 0. Italian missionary The Best in Three Days Szent Gellért was reportedly rolled down the hill in 1046 to his death by revolting pagans. rr u e Be rád lgr u.19 5 ★★★ = Gellért Hill. replete with cannons galore. met his end being tumbled down the hill (that was subsequently named after him) in a barrel filled with nails—possibly in one of those bum deals whereby your faith supposedly will save you. the Freedom Statue M. Gellért. ironically went up in 1947 as a tribute to the Soviet forces that liberated the city from the Nazis. @ 1–2 hr. it survived the cull of Communist statues from the capital.

@ 2 hr. Don’t be alarmed if a priest appears from nowhere! @ 15 min. which is a bit more suited to kids who can enjoy the artificial waves in the main outdoor pool. At the end of the pool. nor the saunas and steam rooms. although the authorities are said to be cracking down on that sort of thing. the male and female thermal facilities are to the right and left respectively. check out this spooky church whose eerie passages dig deep into the hill. though many locals like to let it all hang out and dispense with their modesty cloths. I say just enjoy them and come out feeling squeaky clean and purified.20 The Best Full-Day Tours Relax in style at the Gellért thermal baths. just before reaching the Gellért Hotel and Baths.100. Ft 3. This is where things start to get really colorful and heated. be sure to check out the outdoor pools and garden. You can keep your bathing costume on. The plunge pool is so icy you feel the chill right through your bones. 6 Cave Church. blood circulation. Kelenhegyi út 4. In summer. On the way down. and just for a moment you might expect Elizabeth Taylor’s Cleopatra to dive in alongside you. After another hard day of pounding the streets. but the thaw of the warm pools is always close at hand. the Art Nouveau architecture of the Gellért thermal baths allows you to relax in style but also to see something special. While the waters are supposed to sort out arthritis. 6am–7pm. and the spine. Inside. . the central pool is surrounded by Romanesque columns and lions spitting out water. 7 ★★★ Gellért Baths. Tram: 47/49/18/19 to Szent Gellért tér. and I’m not just talking about the design or decoration. y 4666166.

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The Best Art Nouveau

udapest is blessed with many buildings constructed using a unique take on the Art Nouveau movement. Known as szecesszió, it has its own figurehead in Ödön Lechner (1845–1914), Hungary’s equivalent to Gaudí. Much of this tour can be managed on foot, which is a great way to see lesser known but still impressive parts of the city you might not normally encounter. START: M2 to
Stadionoak.

B

1 = ★★ Geological Institute (Földtani Intézet). Ödön
Lechner incorporates geological elements such as fossils into his usual folk influences in the eye-catching purple and yellow façade. Should you arrive on a non-visitation day, a look at the entrance hallway will give you an idea of the expressive interior. There’s a small Lechner exhibition between floors. @ 30
min. Stefánia út 14. y 1/251-0999. www.mafi.hu. Ft 250. 10am–4pm Thurs, Sat & Sun. Metro: M2 to Stadionoak.

elaborate entrance, which features towers, sculptured elephants, and gruesome gorillas. Like Balás Villa, the Zoo is next to City Park and you can see plenty from the outside.

@ 15 min. Állatkerti körút 6. Metro: M1 to Széchenyi fürdó.
5 ★ Kölcsey Ferenc Gimnázium. After seeing such an ornate
zoo, I totally envy Budapest’s kids. Just a few minutes’ walk away, find the kind of epic and ornate school I’d love to have gone to. However, I’m reliably informed by a Hungarian friend who attended it that it didn’t look like this until it was renovated after we both left school in the late 1980s. @ 15 min. Munkácsy Mihály
utca 26. www.kolcsey-bp.hu.
The elaborate entrance to the Zoo.

2 Zala Villa. A short walk from the Geological Institute, this castlelike structure, noteworthy for the elaborate sculptured motifs of human figures that drape over the wavy arched window, now houses the Libyan Embassy and can be easily viewed from the street. @ 10
min. Stefánia út 111 (corner of Ajtósi Dürer sor).

3 ★★ Balás Villa. You may have
heard of buildings resembling elaborate wedding cakes before, but this Ödön Lechner-designed building, with its various tones of brown, is more of a chocolate cake—and thanks to its angles, a Gothic one at that. It looks out onto the City Park, houses the Braille Institute, and is a short walk from the Zala Villa.

@ 10 min. Hermina út 47.
4 ★ Zoo (Állatkert). Hungarian Art Nouveau often draws on Indian and Oriental elements. Examples of this can be seen at the Zoo’s

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The Best Special-Interest Tours

6 ★★ Dob utca School. I’d
have no trouble sending my kids to this school. I like the clever and subtle use of brown and blue paintwork that keeps the building subdued enough to be used as a seat of education but still complements the building’s wavy and wobbly Art Nouveau aspect. The school’s coat of arms, murals of kids playing hide and seek, and marching soldiers provide the perfect finish. Dob utca
85. www.dobsuli.hu. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca.

‘New Theater’ building both fits in and stands out on this narrow side street that runs adjacent to majestic Andrássy. Opened as the Parisiana nightclub in 1909, its charm lies in the domineering sculptured monkeys and the gold and blue organ pipe-like trimmings at the top.
Paulay Ede utca 35. Metro: M1 to Opera.

9 ★★★ National Savings Treasury. Tucked away off the
main drag, the front façade is an engaging restrained mix of wavy lines, light colors, Hungarian folk motifs, and Islamic pillars, if such a funky combo can be restrained. Naturally, the bees making honey means money in Lechner-speak. However, the real drama comes with the roof, whereby Lechner deployed the wares of iconic Hungarian ceramics’ manufacturer Zsolnay to a more daring end than usual. Here the gentle curves of the façade give way to more stark angles in an eyecatching yellow and green-layered finish. Opened in 1886 as the Royal Hungarian Postal Savings Bank, it now serves as the National Savings Treasury. Although it is closed to the public, you can step in the door for a peek of the interior. @ 15 min.
Hold utca 4. Metro: M3 to Arany János utca.

7 Ferenc Liszt Music Academy. The parallels with Barcelona and modernismo don’t end with Gaudí and Lechner. Aside from the muscular sculptures holding up a seated statue of the man himself, and some handy ironwork, much like Barcelona’s famed Palau de la Musica, the real beauty of the Ferenc Liszt Music Academy lies on the inside in its awesome auditorium, which doesn’t just look but sounds good too. I suggest you get along to one of the Academy’s great value concerts (see Arts & Entertainment p 132) or peek inside during term time. Liszt Ferenc tér 8. www.lfze.hu.
Tram: 4/6 to Király utca.

8 ★ Új Szinhaz. Béla Lajta’s
compact and somewhat understated
The Art Nouveau Bedó Ház.

Among the permanent Art Nouveau exhibits look out for the Frigyes Spiegel-designed Art Nouveau Tall Case Clock and lots of groovy defining furniture. y 1/269-4622. . ! Gresham Kávéház. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. I’ve already introduced you to the exterior of this museum in the Best in Two Days tour (see p 15. sadly the color gives way to a whitewashed interior. The twisty curling shapes. 0 ★★ Bedó Ház. love chairs. and the like—you can actually sit on or stretch out on them should you desire. Roosevelt tér 5–6. While much of the Gellért Hotel was bombed to rubble in World War II. bullet 8). Although the objets d’art are inanimate—Art Nouveau furniture. In 1920. and salads. and the immense conservatory remain true to their original design. the wishes of conservative critics were met and the daring design of the interior was painted over. www. The downstairs café is a good alternative to the pricey Gresham (see p 104). This suave coffee house-cum-bistro is housed on the ground floor of the stunningly restored Art Nouveau Four Seasons Gresham Palace hotel (see hotels p 142) and does a noted deluxe burger from sirloin. # ★★★ Gellért Baths. y 1/268-5100. bullet 1). bullet 7 and p 27. As you walk through the ornate entrance. beds. Ft 600. the side that houses the baths escaped the worst and remains close to its original Art Nouveau splendor (see p 20. they couldn’t destroy the essence of the place. exquisite sandwiches. The Art Nouveau Bedó Ház takes the interactive museum concept a step further.magyar szecessziohaza.25 The Best Art Nouveau The Museum of Applied Arts. but have a word with them and they’ll put you in touch with a carpenter who produces replicas. wobbly staircases. This shouldn’t discourage you from entering as. The museum stops short of letting you take the exhibits home. $$$. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tér. @ = Museum of Applied Arts. fortunately. Honvéd utca 3.hu.

. At a tilla t út a a lot Pa áraljj V t Pe s t ii als t pr kp a ó ra S Szt rt rt kpa rak só lsó a ai a ú út B ud tiila A At ö t körú zeum Múze u. Alkotmán re u. Budavári Kár t u. nón ia u Heg .. lllé Ge . István park Thur zó u . Erőd u. Falk Miks a u. u. Kálmán Im Báthory u. tér Szt. yi Irén Vitéz u. éd Honvéd u. e Szabó Ilon nc k Bem József Bem József u. Fo r Zenetorteneti Múzeum Halászbástya Mátyás Corvin templom tér tu 7 VÍZIVÁROS H M TÉR Szt. . Honvéd tér LIPOTVAROS y u. Hold u. réz ai u Te Jóka J u. Gellért 6 Palatinus Strandfürdő tér Gellért . Westend City Center 2 Honvéd Istv án kör út Kád ár u Váci LEHEL u. József Attila Eötvös lánchíd Clark Erzsébet Várszínház DEÁK Rum tér Ádám tér ba tér M FERENC ch VÖRÖSMARTY TÉR u. István Bazílíka Roosevelt M BAJCSY tér Széchenyi ZSILINSZKY ÚT u. Margit tér Margit körút Tölgy Margit híd Pesti alsó rakpart Balassi B álint u. Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti Sportuszoda gyógyfürdő 1 Do bu . ssy Pau ály á dr Kir An . Anna templom KOSSUTH M LAJOS TÉR Bajcsy Zsilinszky út art rakpart Néprajzi Múzeum Országház Kossuth Lajos tér BATTHYÁNY étány k NYUGATI M pályaudvar nicz PÁLYAUDVAR a Po dm Szo nd . Vác i út ÚJLIPÓTVAROS Balz Csa MARGIT HÍD ac u . iu t út ör z k .. ef u .26 The Best Special-Interest Tours The Best Baths Frankel Leó út Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti 7 sportuszoda s ds Hajós Alfred 6 0 0 0. Va Vadász u. stoll u Vé rh Margitsziget aa Buda alsó Lukács gyógyfürdő 5 Apostol u. Nádor u. Nyugati yu . i u. Arany Jáno Szt. Galéria zsinagóga tér Önkormányzat Budapesti ASTORIA u. út kör git Király 4 M ar gyógyfürdő u. nád y u. út alo m Szt. Mechwartliget Jászai Mari tér Kat o na J ózs Duna (D anube) u. edű s Gy Vise ula gr ád u. u art ái Vác ar u kpa ak ln dr Mo grád lg B Be P sP ee Ve r é é áln u. na Na gy m Szabadság tér Jókai tér do Nádor u. ő őu ez u u. . au . Pan u. Fő út Bem rakpart Kap ás u . u.. jjós Ha rak rakpart B Budai alsó ő Fő út u.G r rt r t rt pa akp . BELVÁROS Dózsa Történeti Múzeum sta M Information tér György i po Rég A tt FERENCIEK TERE Post Office il a ú M t Ferences t Belvárosi tó ú M Metro Station templom Saj plébániatemplom bad Sza Petőfi Irodalmi H HÉV Station Múzeum Erzsébet Hegyal Boat Pier ja út Döbrentei híd KÁLVIN tér TÉR M Rudas 3 Kálvin gyógyfürdő 1 Gellért Gyógyfürdő és Uszoda tér rút 2 Széchenyi Gyógyfürdő és Uszoda kö áz mh 3 Rudas Gyógyfürdő és Uszoda Vá Fővám Vásárcsarnok Citadella 4 Király Gyógyfürdő tér Szabadság Csarnok 5 Lukács Gyógyfürdő híd Sziklatemplom tér Szt.25 km 1/4 mi p Apo . Fazekas u. Varsán Nagy Imre tér Toldy FerBatthyány u. M TÉR Lehel tér e Fe nd iná rd íd h H fa u. Kres z Gé za u . Újp esti rakp art Poz son yi ú Holl t án E Tátr mő a u. Victo r Hu go u . A Akadémia u art Széche Széchenyi rakp ARANY JÁNOS UTCA M VÁ Magyar Tudományos Akadémia s u. Medve u. eu Ó Operaház Ed M OPERA út lay u. u. TÉR M oly palota Alagú Magyar Nemzeti kör Nagy Vörösmarty a u út út Fővárosi .

Swimming pool 6am–6pm. Relax in the main central pool and then dip in and out of the corner pools of varying temperatures. go to www. the Gellért offers outstanding single-sex thermal bathing. Döbrentei tér 9. The cold plunge pool is so icy that you can feel your own bones.gellertbath. Tram: 18/19/47/49.200 for the steam (Ft 400 refund if you leave within 2 hr). for both sexes in swimming suits Sat. For a full list of the medical benefits according to each specific water source. Each has its own character. Kelenhegyi út 4. It’s at its best in winter with snow on the ground and you’re all snug and warm in the outdoor thermal pool (p 13. Some pools and services are only available till 4pm & 6pm & are closed on Sat–Sun.szechenyibath. A magnificent neo-Baroque bathing complex.com. Ft 2 = ★★★ Széchenyi Gyógyfürdó és Uszoda. Although not the best place to come for a good swim. bullet 1). .100 (with cabin rental). which is given an extra depth of beauty by the beams of light that penetrate through the holes in the domed ceiling. 6am–7pm weekdays. A welcome feature of the Rudas is the ward-like lying down room and I heartily recommend a snooze after the extremes your body’s just been through. for women Tues. Ft 2. Admission Ft 2. y 1/ 466-6166. Wed.000 if you leave within 2 hr). Plunge into the turquoise water. Go early like the Hungarians do. Ft 400 refund if you leave within 2 hr. 3 ★★★ Rudas Gyógyfürdó és Uszoda. Metro: M1 to Széchenyi Fürdó. Ft 1.com. while the thermal water itself is prescribed for treating joint problems and arthritis. Surrounded by stone pillars. Bus: 7 to Gellért tér. y 1/356-1322. with the men’s side the most lavish. y 1/363-3210. Állatkerti körút 11. Fri. you can splash back in time. Admission Ft 2. Bus: 7 to Gellért tér. There’s a really cold plunge pool around the corner on the way to the changing rooms. or consider taking an evening dip. Skip it and you might need an early night. Neo-baroque bathing at Széchenyi. among other conditions. 6am–5pm Sat–Sun (Apr 30– Sept 30). while the faded grandeur makes the garden a top place to take it seriously easy in the warmer months (p 20.spasbudapest. Steam 6am–8pm. bullet 7). B 1 = ★★★ Gellért Gyógyfürdó és Uszoda. www. The main bathing chamber features a large central pool and it is also open to women.com. Daily 6am–10pm. but be warned it gets really busy on hot summer days. Thurs.200 (locker). www.400 (Ft 2. START: Tram: 18/19/47/49.27 The Best Baths udapest’s thermal baths and lidos have both helped me through many an icy winter and cooled me down in the heat of summer. Steam for men Mon. Sun.800 to Ft 3.

300 for over 3 hr. Men 7am–6pm. Fó utca 84.000 (kids & pensioners) for the swimming pool. This carried Lukács Gyógyfürdö. Ft 1. Metro: M2 to Batthyány tér. I like to do a few lengths of one of the rather shortish open-air swimming pools before rewarding myself with the wonders of the interior. the Turkish domed ‘King’ was a tolerated meeting point for gay men. Men Tues. Smaller than the Rudas. There’s also a thermal pool with a fun whirlpool for tobogganing with your body.500 (cabin). overtly sexual behavior is no longer tolerated. Thurs. 5 ★ Lukács Gyógyfürdó. As the whirlpool switches off. 4 ★★ Király Gyógyfürdó. Bus: 5/7/8/86. y 1/202368. it also takes you back a long way in time. including certain members of the ruling élite. or so I’m told. 1.28 The Best Special-Interest Tours on post-1989 and I’ve heard this place referred to as ‘The Queen’. Wed. Tram: 18/19 to Döbrentei tér. Ft 2. You can normally get a lane in the shorter of the two but it is cold. Under Socialism. Sat 9am–8pm. Fri 7am–6pm. Beams of light penetrate through the ceiling at Rudas Gyógyfürdó és Uszoda. Ft 1. I love .300 within 2 hr. while in the longer pool you’ll be competing for space with the leisurely swimmers. You see many regulars here where it’s less touristy and has a mixed bathing option. Women Mon. people head for the water massage. but now. It was so steamy in here that apparently most Budapest heterosexuals have been once.

relaxing. Sat 6am–5pm. It held the European Swimming Championships in 2006 and has been extended accordingly. Palatinus Strandfürdó has a holiday camp atmosphere that you can check into every day in summer.200 with cabin. Mon–Fri. It’s nice to sit on a bench in the garden and let your pulse return to normal afterwards. Ft 2.000 with locker for all day at weekends. and loads of food stalls and bars. Inside. Margit Sziget. Cheaper tickets available for shorter times.800 with locker for all day on weekdays. Ft 2. climb the stairs to the spacious sun terrace that looks out onto leafy Buda. y 1/326-1695. Sat–Sun 6am–6pm Oct–Apr. Good for a proper swim with its Olympic-sized pool and several others. Bus: 26 to Hajós Alfréd uszoda. Mon–Fri 6am–4pm. y 1/340-4505. Go early on very hot days. the large pool is for taking it easy. beautifully tucked into its own chamber. as the water surges up to the blurry sound of people’s voices. Sat–Sun 6am– 6pm May–Sep.900/1. but is by no means obligatory. Sun 6am– 7pm. Frankel Leó utca 25–29. tempting as it is. or in school holidays. Don’t stay too long in the hot pool. Bus: 26 to Palatinus strand. plenty of grass to camp out on. Located on Margaret Island. 6 = ★★★ Palatinus Strandfürdó. Brave the steam room. Ft 1.400 with cabin. The outdoor pools are warm enough for swimming in winter but you can also swim inside. at weekends. Mon–Fri 6am–5pm.700 for over 3 hr with cabin/locker. Ft 2. Tram: 4/6 to Margit híd Budai hídfó/18 to Lukács Gyógyfürdó. Bikini tops come off here regardless of age. lying back. There’s a wide range of pools of varying temperatures and a long . The big pool is sometimes devoted to training but you can usually find somewhere to swim. Margit Sziget. and feel purged of all impurities momentarily. There’s even fruit stands.500/1. Ft 1.29 The Best Baths Enjoy the holiday camp atmosphere at Palatinus Strandfürdó. 7 ★ Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti Sportuszoda. plop straight into the cold plunge pool immediately next to it. In summer. Daily 9am–7pm May 1–Aug 31. Ft 1. one for proper swimming. but also an excellent place to catch some rays. y 1/340-4946.300 for within 2 hr with cabin/locker.

Te Jóka 0 1/4 mi Information u. u. Krisztina körút út nube) Duna (Danube) Turkish Traces . OPERA M Szt. Boat Pier Hunfalv u. eg t yu Dózsa 6 Memorial of the last Pasha czi ú . ő u. n 3 Varsán yi Irén u. Anna . u Fazekas u.25 km Múzeum y u.30 The Best Special-Interest Tours Markó u. Jurányi u. M y yu Oktogon LAJOS TÉR 5 tra Szt. We Tudományos u. ót Corvin . y ag m R Ha Hold u. rcs An Déli u. iu Múze ályi u. u. Ak á uz Kla Fő út ve Szö . ia u. . u. Vas u Szentkir zn József körút ya art u. D Do bu D De rék é Post Office Néprajzi 0 0. Emlékhaz u. Zrínyi u. Má Ó Jókai M OKTOGON u. Rákó ASTORIA M György tér sis u. Vérm ező ő Bajcsy Zsilinszky út Zsilinszky út a ztin Kris rút kö N . ros Ma u jós Nádor u. templom 6 a Hadtörténeti 7 tér VÍZIVÁROS Fo . zu fa u. ZSILINSZKY ÚT tér Mér Széchenyi Do tér u. Lis rakp i Vác . 1 2 LIPOTVAROS t rú kö réz i u. bad Múzeum u. h Á templom y János u. M TÉR KOSSUTH . Mammut 1 Moszkva tér Széna tér 4 MOSZKVA TÉR M út Fő út B Bem rakpart Csalogány u. ácf l u. VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA M Metro Station Alkotmán Országház Kossuth M Batthyány u. Toldy Fere re u. zeka Medve u. a n ás M Vérmező dr aul István ay Akadémia VÁ P u. u. Budai alsó osm Nádor u. ör ú Mammut 2 t Ma rgi tk Kap a á s u. um lsó ai a Bud tila At körú t par rak út t . Somogyi Béla u. Lajos Os Terror nc Kálmán Im H BATTHYÁNY HÉV Station H tro u tér mu Háza Báthory u. gu . j lla be Isa u. au tsé s rté Ke rs Há .. yu M VÖRÖSMARTY Káro 3 Három Testvér gút u selé M Budavári án s u. . u. Ala h ly k Blaha We rédj TÉR Do örú B e ze ja út palota Magyar Nemzeti Lujza tér t 4 Ostrom utca u. 7 24 Táncsics Mihály utca Kri Attil Bérkoc FERENCIEK szt a út Naphegy ELTE ina Gutenburg TERE M 8 National Gallery tér kör Belvárosi Rákóczi t tér dor u. ófi Szabadság rtu Múzeum Sz bu Zenetorteneti tér Do Liszt Múzeum há ARANY M Ferenc tér zu ao Operaház 11 Halászbástya JÁNOS UTCA . ú út Tabáni De Sán plébániatemplom 9 Sajtó tér zs TABÁN Petőfi Irodalmi Bródy 9 Inner City Parish Church plébániatemplom u. . ti u ná Do . i Pál u . pá y . sa óz Mária u. Ady Endre Sza Tig 10 National Museum Magyar Nemzeti Kereszt ris 10 f u. Vadász u. Múzeum Erzsébet Józse Rác yalja út 11 Gül Baba Szeráj 7 híd Heg gyógyfürdő őu ez . Síp a lot Pa áral V i alsó Pest Gyula Vig u. István yi u Aran L tér r . Ernst lén DÉLI Bazílíka e u Múzeum ds Magyar út sse PÁLYAUDVAR étá sy y Ed Szt. rakpart og u. tér Be ály ny BAJCSY Roosevelt Kir Klauzál pályaudvar M há leg u. . eu L Lo v va gu . ru Mátyás . czy Kazin u. 8 Nép Fővárosi Ge Nagy Galéria szính llé BELVÁROS Önkormányzat zsinagóga 5 Bécsi Kapu ter áz u rth . rö ry Vö ge en Cs út u. József Attila lánchíd 1 Gül Baba utca Erzsébet Elektrotechnikai Clark Ru Várszínház út tér Múzeum BLAHA Ádám tér óczi M DEÁK TÉRmba 2 Gül Baba tomb u. Október 6. Akadémia u art Széchenyi rakp . iu od t ú la ti At Puskin u. LUJZA TÉR Rák ch nyi . FERENC . yu art sm u. os Ján áth Fi Honvéd u. kör et fa árs séb H Erz g szá u Or Úr i T Vár na u.

y 1/326-0062. START: Tram: 4/6 to Margit híd. y 1/345-4125. This Bektashi dervish is credited Statue of Gül Baba. $. Gül Baba’s pristinely restored mausoleum. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Ground floor of Fény utca piac. we start our tour on a street named after Gül Baba. which you can enter to take a peek at the colorfully decorated tomb and surrounding grounds. and influential consort of Suleiman the Magnificent. Ft 500. Budai hídfó.31 Turkish Traces S o often associated with ruling with an iron fist during their 140-year occupation. is a rare survivor from a period of history that has been all but wiped from Buda’s visage. This steep and narrow cobbled Ottomanesque street could be straight out of a hilly Istanbul neighborhood. a Turkish fighter. Hardly among the most frequented of sights these days. with introducing the rose to Buda and the plush surrounding neighborhood is known as Rózsadomb. Most of these attractions are located within close proximity to each other. I recommend conquering the hill that is ‘Siege Street’. = Három Testvér. Tram: 4/6 to Margit híd. I find this a remarkable oasis of tranquility even though it’s so close to Margit körút. Tram: 4/6 to Margit híd. He even introduced the rose to ‘Budin’ before falling in the successful invasion of the Castle in 1541. Budai hídfó. 3= 4 ★ Walk up Ostrom utca (Siege Street). @ 15 min. Bus: 91/191 to Apostol utca. preacher. The preserved wooden bay window at number 30 (unmarked) is directly opposite a very modern but tasteful take on wooden paneling opposite at number 23. It has cushions to stretch out on and carpets to add to the color. You’ll be following in the footsteps of the . 2★ Gül Baba tomb. this was once the center of Islamic life in Buda. @ 1⁄2 hr. Budai hídfó. poet. Now suitably refueled. literally ‘Rose Hill’. The ‘Three Brothers’ is a chain of fast food Turkish joints dotted around the city. Lövóház utca 12. 1 ★★ Gül Baba utca. and this branch fits nicely in with the bustle of the food market above. the noisy Buda thoroughfare. Mecset utca 14/Türbe tér 1.

after being rebuilt in the years after the liberation of Buda. Tram: 4/6 to Széna tér/Moszkva tér. These baths have long been converted to pools. which likely predate the Turkish influence in Budapest. and right above the Louis XVI doorway of number 24. Bus: 16/16A/116 to Bécsi kapu tér. a Muslim shrine in a typical design within the boundaries of the Castle District. Also look out for the disused mushroom-domed former bathhouse opposite the Lukács baths (see p 28. Ironically. p 26). Almost blending in with the light-colored stone-work. 6 Memorial of the last Pasha. bringing 145 years of Turkish rule of Buda to an end. 7 Turkish Head at 24 Táncsics Mihály utca. albeit a little tucked away from the busiest parts. not just Hungarians but also other European forces. bullet 5). down the steps from the latter. Here the Hungarians finally overpowered the Turks to re-enter and reclaim the Castle in 1686. Look out for Turkish soldier figures carved into the Castle wall. Abdurrahman was defeated and Memorial of the last Pasha. but the old atmosphere is retained. particularly Benczúr Gyula’s enormous canvas The . with the exception that the Turks don’t bathe in the water as it’s considered unhygienic and instead sweat on slabs. the gate was taken down in 1896. @ 10 min.32 The Best Special-Interest Tours Have a Bath On your way down from the Castle District. Bus: Várbusz 16/16A116 to Bécsi Kapu ter. Christian international alliance as they headed toward the Vienna Gate where they overpowered the Turks. Look inside at the remains of the original Gothic sedilla arches. Bus: 16/16A/116 to Bécsi kapu tér. 8 ★★ National Gallery. @ 10 min. He is apparently held in a certain amount of esteem according to the inscription that refers to him as both a hero and an enemy. @ 10 min. The particular Vienna Gate (Bécsi kapu) that stands here today dates back to just 1936. @ 15 min. Close to the intersection of Anjou bástya and Országház utca. killed. 5 ★★ Bécsi kapu tér. the year of Hungary’s millennium. is the engraved head of an unknown but noble and powerful-looking Turk. I enjoy the dramatic paintings of Magyar battles with the Turks. you can wind down this tour early and take the weight off your feet with a bathe at the once Turkish Rudas baths or Király baths (see entries in Best Baths. As you pass under the gate look for the memorial dedicated to those who fell. Near this spot in 1686. It takes a bit of finding but it’s there. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér. The core of these stunning baths is identical in structure to bathhouses in Turkey.

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Turkish Traces

Turkish head at 24 Táncsics Mihály utca.

Recapture of Buda Castle 1686. It makes you think about the history of the spot you are standing on, even if it was painted a couple of centuries later. (See p 131.) @ 1 hr.
Szent György tér 2 (housed in Royal Palace). Bus: 16/16A-116 to Szentháromság tér.

and perhaps has something to do with it being fitted out with a praying niche pointing toward Mecca. You can still see it to the right of the main altar. The surrounding restored Islamic paintwork contrasts sharply with the other more austere half that was destroyed in World War II. @ 15
min. Március 15 tér. y 1/318-3108. Tram: 2 to Március 15 tér.

9 ★★ Inner City Parish Church. Cross the Chain Bridge
(p 11, bullet 7) and walk downstream, or take Erzsébet hid (bridge to go directly to the Inner City Parish Church. It was the only Christian church fully tolerated by the Turks
Inner Parish Church.

0 = ★★ National Museum.
Highlights include the one remaining of a set of three-of-a-kind Turkish leather cloaks in Room 6, the rest of which were lost in a fire at Istanbul’s Topkapi Palace. Also of note is the Ottoman art with military arms used by the Turks and the Christian army in Room 8. @ 45 min. Múzeum körút
14–16. y 1/338-2122. www.hnm.hu. Closed Mon. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér.

★ Gül Baba Szeráj. You couldn’t have a Turkish tour without carpets or at least a chance to have them rolled out temptingly for tea. Unlike Istanbul, they’ll only start throwing the carpets down if you’re interested in the first place. Serves a selection of plates such as ham, cheese, olives, or hummus and decent wine and beer, too. Paulay
Ede utca 55. No phone. $.

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The Best Special-Interest Tours
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35

The Best Coffee Houses

udapest is legendary for its coffee house (kávéház) culture and for the most part it’s an integral part of the locals’ lifestyle rather than a cliché to attract tourist dollars. Look out for the cukrászda, basically cake shops, some of which are very cute. I don’t suggest following this tour rigidly, rather drop in to one of these coffee houses as and when you’re passing.

B

1 ★★ New York Kávéház. The former hangout of cash-strapped writers, poets, and future Hollywood legends back in the fin-de-siècle days. These days, however, fledgling and hard-up film school contemporaries of the likes of Hungarian-born movie mogul Alexander Korda are scared off by the corporate prices. There’s no such thing as a preferential writers’ menu these days. Before it closed for restoration in the late 1990s it had a real faded grandeur feel, but it’s been immaculately restored in its neo-Baroque splendor. Certainly worth a peek but not everyone’s cup of tea as it’s almost overwhelming with a few too many cherubs for my liking, I prefer something a bit less ethereal. For a real splash in your wallet check out the Deep Water restaurant in the basement. Erzsébet körút 9–11. y 1/886-6111. Daily 9am–12pm. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. 2 ★★★ Gerbaud. Neo-Baroque
bonanza plus some of the best
Coffee and cake at Múvész.

Esterházy and Dobos cakes in town.
(p 17, bullet 1.)

3 ★ Múvész. Simple but elegant and old-fashioned in a welcoming way with its arched windows, lowhanging chandeliers, and stripy wallpaper, Múvész is just the place to drop into for a coffee and a cake. The action also spills out onto the terrace on classy Andrássy út in summer, although the high ceilings keep it nice and cool inside. Handy for the Opera House. Andrássy út
29. y 1/352-1337. Daily 9am–12pm. Metro: M1 to Opera.

4 ★★★ Centrál Kávéház.
Another famous institution from Budapest’s heyday that was popular with city hacks. The salons of the coffee house are named after the newspaper titles patrons edited and no doubt part worked out of. Central is a bastion of old-world charm and service without overdoing the glitz. Tastefully renovated in 1999, it has high ceilings, arched windows, and all the comfort you need. Centrál is

Károly Kamermayer. The interior is simple and tasteful with a long marble-topped bar and a relaxed Parisian feel. Alibi gives you an excuse to take time to chill out. Daily 7am–11pm. y 1/317-4209. Look out through the high arched windows from this excellent bistrocum-coffee house onto a charming small square named after the first mayor of Budapest. this place is faded 1920s grandeur personified. In the warmer weather the action spills out right onto the traffic-free square. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere.36 The Best Special-Interest Tours 19–21. It’s far from gloomy now they’ve opened the curtains and with reasonably priced café lattes. Károly Mihály utca 9. it’s just the kind of place I like to relax in. . Daily 7am– 12pm. y 1/889-6002. 6 ★ Café Alibi. with plenty of chandeliers. it’s also a serious dining venue that narrowly missed out on my list of top restaurants. The place to come for flavorsome flódni Relax with a good view of the Danube at Dunapark. Gerlóczy utca 1.hu. pillars.hu. Metro: M2 to Astoria. I also rate this place for a full meal (p 100). Mon–Sat 8am–9pm. Thurs–Fri 8am–10pm.gerloczy. More than a coffee house. and red velvet. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér. www. Daily 7am–11pm. Food is available all day.hu. 7 ★★★ Gerlóczy Kávéház. y 1/501-4000. Sat 9am–9pm. www. 5 ★★★ Astoria.centralkavehaz. y 1/266-2110. Nicely air-conditioned in summer and also quite popular as a restaurant. many make this their office. Located in the quaint University District. Now called the Mirror Café & Restaurant. With its free WiFi. A petite modern take on the grand coffee house of old that borrows something of a French bistro feel and is one of my favorites. Old world charm at Centrál Kávéház.cafealibi. Sun 9am–5pm. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. Kossuth Lajos utca 8 ★ Fröhlich Cukrászda. Egyetem tér 4. www. also great for croissants and has an extensive coffee and wine list.

this is a very special and relaxing place to sit outside in summer. encased in crispy pastry) which is Hungary’s contribution to Jewish confectionery. www. and chocolate cream cake combo. y 1/786-1009. Dob utca 22. tucked away upstairs. cream. Mon–Thurs 9am–8pm. Sun 10am–10pm. 0 Angelica. still use your imagination to picture the interior chambers as a one-time crypt.ruszwurm. Batthyány tér 7.37 The Best Coffee Houses Angelica. Kosher Fröhlich is nothing plush to look at but has been home baking since 1953 and has a real neighborhood café feel.hu. Dunapark is housed in a Bauhaus housing block and has plenty of cool Art Deco touches. Tirol strudels. 16/16A/116 to Szentháromság tér. Fény utca 8. Daily 9am–8pm. y 1/267-2851. the eclectic neoBaroque and 1970s retro décor has been replaced by something much more sterile. This bijou and cozy cake joint with low-arched walls dates back to 1827 and retains plenty of old Baroque charm despite its location in the tourist epicenter of Budapest. Szentháromság utca 7. Daily 10am–10pm. (a triple whammy of apple. y 1/3755284. Part modern. .hu. With its view of Batthyány tér and across to Parliament. y 1/201-0668.augusztcukraszda. 9 ★ Dunapark. marzipan. y 1/316-3817. although you can @ ★★ Auguszt Cukrászda. Metro: M2 to Batthyány tér. and many more are presented enticingly above the charming wooden counter—it’s easy just to point to the ones you want. behind the curtain. a coffee. Sun 10am–4pm. Big windows provide views to the Danube and the attractive Szent István Park. Less on display is the card room. It looks a bit like a medieval chemist’s but. Pozsonyi utca 38. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. Increasingly a serious dining establishment. It is famous for the E80. confectionery from classic recipes by Hungarian cake guru Illés Tóth is being concocted. poppy seeds. Sat 10am–12pm. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér. www.dunapark kavehaz. closes 7pm off season. Run by the same family for five generations. Fri 7:30am–6pm. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. ! ★★★ Ruszwurm Cukrászda. Unfortunately. Mon–Fri 8am–12pm.hu. Cream pastries. www. buttered dough. this cute confectionery shop now has three branches. while the cakes are exquisitely and temptingly presented as you walk in. part 1930s. and walnuts. For something savory try the scone-like pogácsa.

tás u Orb án ule iu Kosc Tót t 3 hChildren’s Railway egy i út 4 Railway Museum s zk óT ru Disz tér Várszínház Széchenyi lánchíd u. Alkotmán au . z Ró ella u b Isa . u rá rádi u. u. ede d 3 bitá s NYUGATI M PÁLYAUDVAR Markó Honvéd u. rány su u. tér su u. Trom Millenáris Park Kis Ró roly u . Honvéd u. Fa Falk M iksa u. . Na jós Ha Ma k et éb rzs . u. iu ad Ar VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA F ú út Gyorkocsi u. y u. Terror Háza Oktogon M OKTOGON . yi Irén Vitéz u.. su .. . István tér y őrg Gy u. Heg g edű űs G Vise yula yu is g u. Metro Station nd i út ú Ribáry u. . étá tér L Mátyás n templom Magyar Tudományos Akadémia s u. kas Medve u. ku . sm rö yu r Vö ge t . Anna templom KOSSUTH LAJOS TÉR M D Kr szt na Kriisztiina körút út t Hat á árőr Október 6. Bajcsy Zsilinszky út Levéltár Szabadság tér H BATTHYÁNY M TÉR Szt. thy Bat . s . 1/4 mi 0. Vadász u. Sz .38 The Best Special-Interest Tours MARGIT HÍD Information H Róm er F Rad Post Office u. Mechwartliget Bem József tér Bem József u. tvö réz kai Eö Te Jó Budapest with Kids KRISZTINAVÁROS Hadtörténeti Múzeum Nádor u. u Bimb Újj pest ii rak r p P P a art ozs o ny i út H ú ollá n n Em ő ő T T átra u. Roosevelt M Mérleg u. za a őr tár Ha VÍZIVÁROS e es se Cs ab V ér m e ező Király 2 su rút . 2 Palace of Wonders zti na k örú t Pa rinc h Lő Alkotás u. Fő út Budai alsó rakpart Fazekas u.25 km ád e u. rú se n su C kö u. M . sz Or j ma ros Vá th Tó Liszt Ferenc tér ARANY M JÁNOS UTCA . di go a út o il t At u. Ó u. K Kres z z Gé za u a . au ófi E u. Balz ac u . iu nd Szo TEREZVÁROS E Ezr Ma Duna (D (Danube) an Pe Pesti alsó rakpart akp Balassii B B álint u. Arany Jáno Szt. ó Bír Bem rakpart u.. fa u. Tö Tölgy Keleti Ká Szt. Széna tér MOSZKVA Toldy Feren Batthyány u. DÉLI M PÁLYAUDVAR Vérmező Szallag u. Leó út H HÉV Station híd V Vác eg yu ó út . Ak zá au Kl 1 Bábszinház Clark Ádám tér Kr i M OPERA Ernst u. LIPOTVAROS Néprajzi Múzeum y u. . su ác ék art lsó rakp Budai a Fő út Do ob u. Akadémia u art Széchenyi rakp u. Operaház á Árp th Rá t ör ú Zenetorteneti Múzeum Halászbástya zu Corvin ds . Westend City Center icz an dm Po ky u. Hold u. Margit tér Jászai Mari tér Kat o Margit körút na J ózs ef u . Varsán Mammut 1 Retek u. M 1 hJ iát o án Alm m u. gyógyfürdő t kö rgi Mammut 2 u. István Bazílíka Szt. Frankel Margit híd B Bu dáy á L Cog Wheel Railway Istv án kör út Balaton u. yu art . nón ó ia u. u . u u P Pan . Csalogány u. Múzeum út de ssy lay E rá u nd Pa A ály Kir BAJCSY u u. ú úl u. au ácf l u. ba Csa út VÁ Fo Sz Hunyadi tér . . au Lo wff ovag y u u. Krisztina Alagút u tér Budavári palota Zrínyi u. tér ZSILINSZKY ÚT u. u Jurányii u. TÉR ny u cu á . nót i Mik lós Lehel tér á ász ll M ó óu . Sza am o o út Szilág yi Erzsé bet fa Városmajor sor Vár Városmajor osm Ma ajo ros r u. ág há u na rtu or ro s u. 4 ORSZÁGÚT iná rd Fe Ró zs ah lór is u . őu ez ym g u. József Attila Erzsébet 0 tér M VÖRÖSMARTY DEÁK M 0 TÉR FERENC TÉR . ív Sz sa u . Országház Kossuth Lajos tér re Kálmán Im Báthory u. Nyugati pályaudvar zu há vő Lö Ga r ra u Ny s u.

opera. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty utca.090. y 1/322-5051. @ 1 hr. A bizarre but cute hangover from the former system in Traditional fairy tales at Bábszi nház. See p 87. 1 ★★ Bábszí nház (Puppet Theater). Closed Mon & Dec 19–Mar 14. ranging from good old-fashioned fun to the modern and interactive. www. interactive exhibitions keep the children entertained and absorbed.39 Budapest with Kids A side from the green areas of City Park and Margaret Island featured in Best of the Outdoors (p 81). which youngsters. Budapest has a number of other outstanding children’s attractions. Ft 1. Family ticket Ft 1. Tram: 4/6 to Széna tér. operate a hand wagon. 2 ★★★ Palace of Wonders (Csodák Palotája). otherwise 10am–3am. Traditional fairy tales and acclaimed modern adaptations of ballet. Ft 500–Ft 2. Closed for renewal for two weeks from late Aug. @ 2 hr.millenaris. It’s part of the Millenáris arts complex. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér. Drive a steam engine. 4 ★★★ Railway Museum (Vasúttörténeti Park). . y 1/336-4044. which is home to Hungary’s 50-strong operation steam fleet. Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. Inside. were handed the responsibility of running this railway that snakes through the scenic Buda Hills. or ride on a horse-pulled tram at Europe’s first interactive railway museum. and the outdoors part is great for relaxing with the kids. or ‘pioneers’ as they were referred to.700 depending on the performance. Ft 890. Tram: 14 to Rokolya utca. Take a packed lunch aboard the children’s train. Bus: 30 to Rokolya utca. START: M1 to Vörösmarty utca. Andrássy út 69. bullet 2. 3 ★ Children’s Railway (Gyermekvasút). y 06/70-313-4957. Fény utca 20–22. but also teach them scientific principles without them even realizing it. Mon–Sun 10am– 5pm. A vintage diesel shuttle runs to the museum from Nyugati Station 3 Apr–24 Oct. Apr 3–Oct 24 10am–6pm. A packed lunch is a good idea.hu. Look out for The Wooden Prince from local legend Béla Bartók. Building D. @ 1 hr. Interactive rides by appointment only Mar 15–Apr 1 & Nov 2–Dec 18. and pantomime classics are performed here. Fogaskerekú (Cog Wheel Railway) to Széchenyi hegy. Millenáris.900.

Bem rakpart Medve u. au rsf Há u. Széchenyi tér Ho tér u. elé ter tére ly ú yu ss Almássy Pé ra öko Ga We Th tér Szt. m gy Vö VÁ Ha ő ez VÍZIVÁROS C jós u. István . u H Honvéd Boat Pier út ety Km Felvonulási tér G zsa Dó Du Duna (D anube) ub yi Varsán Irén u.. . séb Erz u. T k Jó VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA Országház Terror Háza Honvéd u. kás u tér Keleti yu Mun KELETI pályaudvar án M oh PÁLYAUDVAR D i út cz Rákó BLAHA 7 me Fiu 8 Köztársaság tér iú t Bécsi u 9 Serbian Embassy Be dj u. út Baj za u. ö r su ry nd Vö tvö ge iná Eö en rd Cs út Fe ör zk eré ai u.40 The Best Special-Interest Tours nót i Mik lós Műcsarnok . Nagy Imre tér Néprajzi Múzeum LIPOTVAROS Szo Sz ív u. Kálmán Im Báthory u. Sz sa u . bu sef BAJZA UTCA u. Zoltán u. Faze Fazekas u. or . . ánd iu Rózsák ny t fy S . Lövölde tér Da mj an i u ch . Gy ö dm Po Bem József tér ssy út Jászai Mari tér Józ . Anna templom e sse Lo v wff vag ffy g u u.. . . . Akadémia 3 Imre Nagy Bridge Statue Október 6. zát Os 7 Lanzhou u. Vác ái út t Westend City Center MARGIT H HÍD Margit Rad ly há Mi sy ác nk Mu u. sz rté . czy Kazin 10 Felvonulási tér u. ti ná Do .. nd iu . Budai alsó rakpart Fő Fő út Pesti alsó ra rakpart Balass ss i Bálint u u. Ó Operaház M Liszt Ferenc Emlémúzeum u. B ív . Bem József tér H rakpart zéc Széchenyi u. fa árs u. ze r é 8 Síp u. BATTHYÁNY H M TÉR 2 Kossuth Lajos tér y u. ll be Isa 2 Kossuth Lajos tér/Parliament Revolutionary Budapest u. LUJZA TÉR ny há M Do Blaha Lujza tér 6 5 Köztársaság tér . zsa a u. Nyugati NYUGATI pályaudvar PÁLYAUDVAR M Honvéd Stollár Béla u . lló József Attila lánchíd u.25 km 4 zsinagóga . u . mb sef De Józ ek r Ma út án Istv He Vadász u. bo Gá en thl Be u. 4 Radio Building út kör et u. ErzsébetBaross plébániatemplom . yu rg 10 ona an i V Vise grád r i M Metro Station u. z za u Information u u. d rná Nádor u. Szi ok ajn u. z au u. zó S bu Do Liszt Ferenc tér ge sen u. z z Gé Kres s híd yu czk Kat . du K Kap ás u s . KOSSUTH M LAJOS TÉR 3 t Rot . M OPERA Szt. H HÉV Station e ers 1 Szt. Ernst út de u Bazílíka Magyar sy E Múzeum Szt. jza Ba HŐSÖK tere M TERE 9 Hősök Post Office . lyRu á Kir um DEÁK . Na Toldy Fere Batthyány u. Ke au ácf l u. Istv án kör u. Ró ell rty sab sma íd I . Városliget u u. Tudományos rás ulay István nd Pa Akadémia A Zrínyi u. erd zky Pet ins u.. u. fa u Dió gy Na u. Hold u. Ak zá u Kla 5 Corvin Mozi 6 Blaha Lujza tér D Do bu . r u. rt Bethlen Gábor tér Ró . Bajcsy Bajcsy Zsilinszky út 1 Bem Statue. Alkotmán re u. ba FERENC TÉR M ch yi u lén u. á á dr lib An Dé Hopp Ferenc M Kelet-Ázsiai Múzeum TEREZVÁROS or fas Kodály Kodály Zoltán eti Körönd slig Emlémúzeum KODÁLY áro V M KÖRÖND Erőd u. edve u M ei ny u. yu u. ika tér fia Jós . D Szt. u. Fallk Mi ak k sa u. h u. rös r u. nc u Hunfalv yu . Arany Jáno s u. 0 1/4 mi Kár sse oly We kör út Nagy 0 0. Jókai M OKTOGON u. tér BAJCSY Roosevelt Klauzál M ZSILINSZKY ÚT Mérleg u. yu ry u. tér r gy yö Vitéz u. Hunyadi ály Oktogon tér Kir u. Szabadság tér ille enb ma u jcs fele Ne ARANY M JÁNOS UTCA u.

START: Tram: 4 or 6 to Margit híd. Last time I passed by this legendary square to take a peek at the statue of this swashbuckling Pole. 3 = Imre Nagy Bridge Statue. 1956 from where the 1956 revolution against the Soviet-backed government and Soviet meddling was initiated. in June 1956 against Soviet influence made people believe change could come to Hungary. Partially successful demonstrations in Poland. Bus: 86 to Bem József tér. @ 30 min. ‘goulash Communism’. groups of protestors. a traditional ally.41 Revolutionary Budapest S tart at Bem tér (Square). @ 15 min. Bem tér. But don’t let that put you off—this is the spot where the spark that triggered the 1956 Revolution was ignited. Kossuth Lajos tér. the crowd that was growing in size and revolutionary fervor marched on to Parliament now demanding change. 1 Bem Statue. 2 ★★★ Kossuth Lajos tér/Parliament. The Hungarian Revolution was ultimately illfated but nevertheless saw many Hungarians escape the tyranny. met here to stand united against hardcore Communist rule. there was just myself and a homeless guy. a . the meeting point of protestors on October 23. Budai hídfó. Budai hídfó. Imre Nagy was Hungary’s illfated hero of the 1956 Revolution. Metro: M2 to Batthyány tér. It also led to a gradual softening of the regime through reforms which saw the implementation of so-called Hungary’s ill-fated hero Imre Nagy. Bus: 86 to Bem József tér. 1956: in the wake of a promisingly tolerated rebellion in Poland. starting with students and soon spreading to the masses. Rewind to October 23. who fought with the Hungarians against the ruling Austrians in 1848. Tram: 4 or 6 to Margit híd. Bem József tér. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tér. Bem himself was a Polish general who fought with Hungary against Austria in the 1848–9 Revolution. The bullet holes in the walls of the Agricultural Ministry (p 51. bullet 3) opposite testify to the point where a peaceful demonstration turned violent as Russian tanks and troops fired into the crowd after being shot at from the roof of the Ministry. After the meeting of minds in front of the Bem Statue in 1956.

but also for partying. The roof of Socialist superstore Corvin is given over to a fabulous expansive rooftop bar in summer. It is also a popular choice for violent protests. bullet 1). After things turned nasty at Parliament. y 1/314-1080. @ 15 min. Köztársaság tér 26. 4 ★★ Radio Building. @ 15 min. but plenty of Chinese are among the patrons and the food is very authentic.) y 1/459-5050. @ 15 min. Metro: M2 to Astoria or M3 to Kálvin tér. Corner of Báthory utca. 7 Lanzhou. 9 ★ Serbian Embassy. Nádor utca and Vécsey utca. 8 ★ Köztársaság tér. Corvin köz 1. A short walk from Blaha Lujza tér. with its key strategic position next to Pest entry and exit thoroughfare Üllói út. @ 30 min. . the Stalin statue was dragged here and smashed up. although you will find a statue of a boy with a rifle that pays tribute to those who fell in the name of the Revolution. Tram: 4/6 to Ferenc korut. the battle was on for control of the airwaves. was the site of intense fighting against the Soviets. Metro: M3 to Ferenc körút. mortar marks. (Close to corner of József körút and Üllói út.42 The Best Special-Interest Tours reform-minded Communist Party politician and former leader who sought a new. Bródy Sándor utca 5–7. however. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. 6 Blaha Lujza tér. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tér. 1956 an angry crowd turned on surrendering army officials who they thought were members of the despised secret police. Blaha Lujza tér. A bowl of chicken and noodle soup appears in no time and really tides you over to a bigger meal later. Imre Nagy (see bullet 3). as Corvin has been restored to its former glory and function. Look out for the beautifully restored palaces either side of the Radio Building’s modern entrance. less strict brand of Socialism for Hungary. or bullet holes here. This cinema complex. The Socialist Party headquarters was controversially housed here until recently. this is the site where revolutionaries committed brutal executions of the wrong people. Statue of a boy soldier at Corvin Mozi. who led Hungary’s uprising against the Soviet Union in 1956. There may not be many battle scars to see except for a bombed-out wall from the original Radio Building. After being pulled down with only his boots remaining in place. $. The Chinese poured into Budapest to study and work in the former system. 5 ★ Corvin Mozi. At the Communist Party headquarters at number 26 on October 30. sought refuge here at the Yugoslavian Embassy overlooking Heroes Square (p 7. The square bears the marks of the Communist period. This restaurant may look real simple. You won’t find any rubble. but I like to wander the streets of this atmospheric neighborhood behind the National Museum and soak up the past. Vértanúk tere. He is captured here looking back at Parliament as if thinking about what might have been had the West backed his country in its revolution against Soviet-backed rule. Luther utca 1/b.

The Hungarian Communist equivalent of Moscow’s Red Square is now nothing more than a handy parking spot. The country really managed to pursue its own path of market-oriented Socialism. might have envisaged for Hungary. Metro: M1 to Hósök tere. the then Yugoslavian Embassy seemed a safe haven for Nagy as the Revolution became a crushed rebellion. Nagy was laid to rest once more with full state honors in front of a huge crowd. keeping clear of the restraints imposed by the Soviet control organ of the Warsaw Pact. bullet 1). in 1989. Opposite at Heroes Square. himself a reform-minded Socialist. and then shipped off to eventual but certain death. ironically on the same day as Nagy was acquitted of treason by the Supreme Court. thus making Hungary the so-called happiest barrack in the Communist camp. Kádár is nevertheless credited with reforming the economy along freemarket lines. passed away just weeks later on July 6. Thus. Dózsa György út 92/b.43 Revolutionary Budapest Stalin’s boots at Blaha Lujza tér. Yugoslav Socialism could have provided an economic and political model something akin to what Imre Nagy. who relinquished the leadership due to ill health and a struggling economy in 1988. despite assurances to the contrary by his successor János Kádár. However. Next to Heroes Square. For a replica of the podium. with the winds of change in the air. head to Memento Park (p 46. this is where the annual show parade of Communist might took place. Metro: M1 to Hósök tere. Indeed it was safe until he left when he was seized by Soviet agents. while Party dignitaries watched on from a podium over which a statue of Stalin stood. Kádár. 0 Felvonulási tér. . replete with Stalin’s boots. Often seen as a pawn of Soviet wishes.

Gellért tér Post Office en he g Mé So M Metro Station út ml Gellért ne ói si ú Köb út gyógyfürdő H t HÉV Station ölk út u. zső u TABÁN plébániatemplom .. Apostol u. István Arany Jáno Bazílíka . Alsó h zirt es Sz üre tu . yi Irén Mammut Varsán Retek u. Alkotmán re u. rn Tár ok u. kp ó rakpa ud s Budai al őú Fő út ber Október 6.. Ribáry u. SzabadságCitadella szobor Kelenhegy S i út Information Sziklatemplom Szt. Kálmán Im Báthory u. Király gyógyfürdő Gyorkocsi u. Keleti K ároly u. art u u. emlékmű Orom Budapest GELLÉRTHEGY Hegyalja út S Kongresszusi Mih zirtes Központ út Otthon u.44 The Best Special-Interest Tours Communist Budapest—Behind the Iron Curtain ai u . H Ró zsa Margit körút he Margit Bimb ó út gy u tér . Budai alsó rakpart u. Is u. Szt. Pan nón ia u . Mechwartliget nube) Jászai Mari tér ona Józ sef Szt. Bérc u. u. záro Més T i gr i s u . Alkotás u. ar u. Gellért S gyógyfürdő u. Akadémia u rt eny pa Széchenyii rak o ros DÉLI PÁLYAUDVAR L Zenetorteneti Múzeum Halászbástya Corvin u. . u. . ály u egy . A Avar Alkotás u. Avar c u. Moszkva tér u. Falk M iksa u. mia . Tölgy fa Boly Margitsziget Poz so Holl nyi út án E mő u. M Honvéd tér 6 Fazekas u. án Szt . G elllé t rt ú út r rak pa rt e Ke l y yi aro Karolin t a út . rt u. Krisztina Alagút u tér M a u út . Vadász u. Ná Nádor u. Kék Goly óu Mánnyoki ú t Ménesi út 0 0 0. kö rú t Várszínház Clark Ádám tér Budavári palota Széchenyi lánchíd Roosevelt tér u. KOSSUTH LAJOS TÉR M sz u.. tér Mátyás templom au u un z sz O Or . Nádor u. Gy ori út De rék u. Országház TÉR H M BATTHYÁNY Kossuth Lajos tér VÍZIVÁROS rt Bem rakpart Hadtörténeti Múzeum .5 km 1/2 mi tó Bar 1 kB éla ú Thermal Bath Vill ány i út Budafoki út Vigadó tér Dózsa he gy György tér u. . t z há v vő Lö . tér Rudas Szt. rakpart Balassi B álint u . Tig MOM ris Erzsébet Rác Park u. nc u Fő út Bem rakpart Ma rg t örú it k Pesti alsó 4 Bem József u. Boat Pier s u. Lukács 7 gyógyfürdő Róm MARGIT er F lór HÍD is u. VÁ Fo rt ág há z Szabadság tér 3 Hold u. Csalo Hattyú gány u. u u Úri ARANY M JÁNOS UTCA s u. Kr Déli iz pályaudvar tina szk óT Vérmező s . Kri Att Belvárosi szt ila ú Naphegy ina t plébániatemplom tér kör De út Tabáni NAPHEGY u. u e ter E Es z Balz ac u . Margit híd Kat Duna (D a Millenáris Park u u. tvá n Balaton kör ú u. MOSZKVA 5 M TÉR Toldy Fere Batthyány u. H Aladár u. iu od t og lla út ti a At r u. út alja gyógyfürdő Döbrentei híd egy Csörsz u. t Fiill u ér M Ma LIPOTVAROS Néprajzi Múzeum y u. József Attila DEÁK FERENC TÉR ciu Kosc ád eu . VÖRÖSMARTY M TÉR a a llot Pa árraljj V tii Pest alsó Na p i V Vác p rakp u u.

Cse y yi u r rán u. ály há Mi Kres Vác u. Mihály tér Kálvária tér tér JÓZSEFVÁROS rú t Üll kö ői ú Nap u. iu fy S OPERA M y út er u. a Da . Hősök iu nd tere Szo HŐSÖK 8 M TERE Műcsarnok Városliget Westend . f u. PÁLYAUDVAR M ly u tér á Kir út zi BLAHA ákóc i u.. csis u. s sé E Erz et k be Ak ácf Kla örút . Horánszky u.45 Behind the Iron Curtain Állatkert at e t Vio la u . ó óu nk re Ver c Vác éu áln s Pá i u. Ferenc tér Operaház or ánd . ma u ö r rös gery V Vö sen Cs u u. Ba zív u S S Vö ózs Dó u. ly zse á tér 9 Kir k Jó OKTOGON M u. Práter u. s M ASTORIA jo Bérko u. . u é réz i u k T Te Jóka a Na Do bu . Bé Béla u. á ay Rád u. Rákóczi éri Miksa u u. Erd r u. út yu sy u. are án út a M . u Mu rnád á gy e ez m n nG hle Ha u. r r u.. z za B Baj t út út rú k kö . ty rty . Baross pályaudvar An Do kás u Mun KELETI tér Klauzál . József körút Mária u.. rös gery g sen Cs a aG y yö rgy u. Ernst lén Pét ray ökoly sse Almássy . t át u erh . á ábo . Sándo FERENCIEK D elyi tér Bródy Mátyás zerdah TERE S . Teleki h La i sut ély László tér . ii út Puskin t körú kö zeum Múze u u. Magyar fu tér .. Józse au Petőfi Nemzeti oln y Pál u. isf Fere nc k Angy örút al u.. au . u. TÉR Lehel tér Balz ac u . sa rsf H Há őu He u jós . To Szkéne mp 4 Marxim au Színház . Kálvin Baross u. ófi Istv Sz bu Do Liszt u. R Rád . t Bet . Sz . Rózsák u. ku jno v . ív ich yu u. tére ú t Ede Ga Th Keleti sy ay Múzeum We tér ny u rás aul d P há . Futó u. áz t mh Vá Vásárcsarnok Kőris u. áll u u uz Lóvásár u. er u biill te ten R Rot u.. k City Center ás icz gy dr ör an An Gy dm Felvonulási Po Nyugati Hopp Ferenc ety BAJZA tér Km UTCA M Kelet-Ázsiai pályaudvar M Múzeum sor TEREZVÁROS NYUGATI ti fa ige PÁLYAUDVAR KODÁLY M Kodály Zoltán osl Emlémúzeum Vár KÖRÖND u. Fővám tér u. ru Ló a ra öz Kö na y ny á ktá ) b be n nu Da (D rt pa r rak ű Mű e em y yet eg 6 Children’s Railway 7 Flórián tér 8 PECSA Petőfi híd BORÁROS TÉR H ódi Tin u. M Kos u.. o s Sorok ú árii út . SZÉCHENYI M FÜRDŐ Szépmivészeti Múzeum ny étá ys rol Ká s Magyar Kó Mezőgazdasági Múzeum ina rm He út u Mu Fe k nk ííd dh nd iná rrd za u . Boráros Ferenc 5 Moszkva tér tér tér Csa LEHEL M nád y u.. ay .. Du u u. Somogyi Somogyi Béla u. M oly ssel há édj u Köztársaság We r Blaha kör Do Beze út Nagy Lujza tér tér zsinagóga Kerepesi Fővárosi Nép szính temető Önkormányzat áz u. yu rty ma y u.. Bacsó K Kun Fiu me u u. Vadász u. Kisfaludy u. lu he Le . jan erd am D Pet VÖRÖSMARTY Lövölde Terror M UTCA tér Háza 2 ERZSÉBETVÁROS Hunyadi u. Irodalmi gd Józsefvárosi Múzeum Nyár Ma Múzeum plébániatemplom M KÁLVIN Horváth TÉR Baross u. 1 Memento Park izs Kin Üllő i út 2 House of Terror FERENCVÁROS Tızo ltó 3 Soviet War Memorial u. Lóvásár u. Iparművészeti M FERENC yás t KÖRÚT Múzeum Má i u. jjza Ba z Gé i út u u. ru stte Me . y ay u . uu pu ska Vas Goldmann György tér 9 Sporting hero statues . au elll ab Isa . LUJZA TÉR R Kár ény ny . s sy ác u u.

www. START: Bus: 150 from Kosztolányi Dezsó tér to Memento Park. A 1 ★★★ Memento Park (includes Statue Park). 4). the despised statues of the former regime were dragged here to stare at each other. I especially like the The Soviet War Memorial. Ft 1. . Hungarians are reflective about their history.46 The Best Special-Interest Tours side from ugly Soviet-era buildings next to fin-de-siècle masterpieces. almost visually suggesting don’t mess with me and you’ll be fine. sprinting for the Communist cause. bullet 6. when you can best feel their menace and collective might bearing down on you. Instead of destroying all traces of the past. 2 ★★★ House of Terror. See p 14. Bus: 150 from Kosztolányi Dezsó tér to Memento Park (25 min).500. y 1/424-7500. @ 1 hr. which is where we start our tour. You’re greeted by an imposing statue of Lenin and a funky Cubist one of the Communist Manifesto authors Marx and Engels as you enter the Park. Park toward sunset. Dedicated bus: Ft 3. traces of the past regime are not immediately apparent so this tour requires a bit of traveling. 33) in full flight.mementopark. Most of the Communist statues were dragged off to Memento Park on the outskirts of Budapest. Statue at Memento Park.950 including return trip via direct bus from Deák tér (bus departs 11am all year. Daily 10am–dusk. Corner of Balatoni út and Szabadkai utca. plus 3pm in July & Aug). The statues still get the emotions going and it’s easy to get indignant at the statue commemorating Soviet/Hungarian cooperation whereby a worker shakes hands with a beefy Soviet soldier (statue no.hu. A cutting-edge museum detailing the horrors of oppressive regimes that occurred on this site. My favorite has to be the Herculean worker figure of the Republic of Councils Monument (statue no.

@ 10 min. . but the impressive mythological floor mosaics could be viewed with a minimum group of six by calling y 1/430 1-1081. y 1/316-0231. In addition to cute old houses. decked out with plenty of Socialist-period memorabilia. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tér or M3 to Bajcsy-Zsilinsky út. the memorial still stands proud. while the densest collection of Roman ruins can be found at Acquincum. Baroque Fó tér has survived intact and still looks striking despite the ugliness of huge tower blocks bearing down on it. The wounds of Soviet influence are still raw and it was severely vandalized during the anti-government riots of 2006 and is now ring-fenced. 3 ★ Soviet War Memorial. The museum itself is very retro and blends in well with the Socialist-era housing blocks of the area. The memorial is directly opposite the US Embassy. Szabadság tér. Roman ruins are also spattered around the ‘prefab paradise’. Feel free to write your messages on the walls. the final touches to its refurbishment were applied when Socialist Prime Minister Ferenc Gyurcsány was in Moscow. nearby pockets of charm thankfully remain. thanks to the Soviet ‘liberators’ who overstayed their welcome by more than 40 years. Communistthemed pizzeria and pub with barbed wire and chicken wire separating the booths. The pizza is chunky American rather than Soviet. although unsurprisingly there is a movement underway to tear it down. No phone. This war memorial is a notable survivor of the purge of the Socialistera statues that found their way to Memento Park. 4 ★★ Marxim. Kis Rókus utca 23. $. He stayed for 15 years in a big fingerup to the suppression of the church. Interestingly. Controversial. where Cardinal Mindszenty sought refuge in 1956 as the Soviets extinguished the fire of the uprising.47 Behind the Iron Curtain Óbuda—Traces of ‘Old Buda’ Behind the Socialist Façade Communist town planners really took to consigning Óbuda’s one-time beauty to the history books. Communist-themed bar Marxim. Hercules Villa (Meggyfa utca 21) was closed due to ‘technical problems’ at the time of writing. however. The Amphitheater off Pacsirtamezó (Intersection of Viador utca) is said to have been as big as the Coliseum.

The escalator to the underground descends from such a height it can make you dizzy. is the surge of Socialist-Realism that emerges from the middle square in the form of the space age underground station.48 The Best Special-Interest Tours Moszkva Tér. Now used as a backdrop for concerts and events. A bizarre sight that bears the architectural stamp of two contrasting empires: Roman and Soviet. the Children’s Railway was run by the Communist ‘pioneer’ youth movement that delivered organizational skills and an understanding of responsibility to future Party members (p 87. I’ve always found these statues of Socialist sporting titans inspiring. They almost seem to transcend political ideology. Metro: M1 to Széchenyi fürdó. 9 ★★ = Sporting hero statues. The statues are part of the Ferenc Puskás stadium. This Socialist-era music venue replete with a funky exterior is still going strong and you can see some big names here. Moszkva tér. such as the castle-like Post Office admin building. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér. however. Óbuda. both on the indoor and outdoor stage. Metro: M2 to Stadionak. @ 30 min. 5 Moszkva tér. Tucked under the flyover you’ll find the remains of Roman baths. On weekend mornings it’s the place to buy Socialist bric-à-brac (see Best Shopping p 65). bullet 2). they stand as tributes to an impressive sporting past. 6 ★★ Children’s Railway. A cute hangover of the previous political system. . 8 ★ PECSA. Nevertheless. y 1/363-3730. ‘Moscow Square’ is a busy and bustling meeting point and transport hub—the kind of place where people come to sign up for a day’s illegal work—and therefore is subject to regular police raids. HÉV to Árpád híd. The prefab housing block is among the city’s drabbest and is supposedly Eastern Europe’s longest connected @ 30 min. Moszkva tér is a charming old square surrounded by dramatic buildings. you can normally get in to see them. It’s a far cry from what’s left of the classical columns that make up the ruins of a Roman settlement in the square it overlooks. Fogaskerekú (Cog Wheel Railway) to Széchenyi hegy. which has many interesting Socialist design elements. estate—but no one is shouting this from the rooftop. 100m on right from entrance. @ 15 min. Ifjúság út 1–3. Map p 70. @ 1 hr. although sport was used to express supposed superiority of the political left. 7 ★★ Prefab housing overlooking Flórián tér. The masterpiece of the square. Zichy Mihály utca. Free Admission.

3 The Best Neighborhood Walks .

13 Petőfi Belvárosi tér plébániatemplom S ajtó ad Szab u. Erkel u. áz óh Só u. Du na Da (D n nu b be ) p kp t ra llllér Ge . Bank u. József Attila Erzsébet József tér nádor tér Erzsébet híd Nádor u. M ASTORIA Rákó t czi ú P Pe ő tőf r or nd Sá iS u.G S Szt t art Rád u Só .50 The Best Neighborhood Walks Belváros 0 0 Olimpia park 0. 1 Néprajzi Múzeum y u. rr u a art k llna akp d dr Mo gá lgr B Be r Ver c Vác i u. Vadász u. út de sy R yE rás ula nd A Pa ay év u. Vácii P Puskin rú örút um um k M Múze yar u. . Szt. Ferences templom út Ady Endre Emlékhaz l u. GELLÉRTHEGY Information Post Office M Gön c zy P rak art Széchenyi rakp Steind l Imre u.. Alkotmán 7 8 9 u. KÁLVIN M TÉR Szerb templom á áln e es P t Bás ya u.. u a Mag M K u. tér u. su jós Ha Garibaldi u. Sas u. Kálvin tér u éu . u. KOSSUTH M LAJOS TÉR Bajcsy Zsilinszky út 3 4 re u.. a art r r ak p u. Szabadság tér 8 6 7 Széchenyi lánchíd 12 VÖRÖSMARTY M TÉR 11 Kár o u.. á mh Vá Fővám tér Szabadság híd t örú zk a ay u . Kálmán Im Báthory u.. a fa u Dió Vörösmarty tér u. István Bazílíka 9 Zrínyi u. Gellért emlékmű Rudas gyógyfürdő Sz e ál u . u. Vásárcsarnok .. rb u. u t n ent aú ö r ttil Döb At Hild Mérleg u. sta i po Rég BELVÁROS FERENCIEK jos u th La TERE ossu .. Fővárosi Önkormányzat Nagy zsinagóga u. Zoltán u. Do M DEÁK FERENC TÉR bu . ény ssel K Kazin ly k örú t We c czy íp Síp u. Ok Október 6. Arany Jáno Szt. tér start here Országház 2 LIPOTVAROS Szalay u. Elektrotechnikai Múzeum i u. Honvéd u. .. István tér u. . ARANY M JÁNOS UTCA Roosevelt tér Döbrentei tér Metro Station Aka Akadémia Operaház M OPERA s u. Ernst Múzeum K Kis s u. ry Pá Nyá Petőfi Irodalmi Múzeum 14 finish here P i Pál ir ly Kirá Magyar Nemzeti Múzeum Múzeu m u. u. ály Kir Ru mb ach Klauzál tér Ho lló u. 5 Ná Nádor u.25 km 1/4 mi 1 2 3 4 5 6 Museum of Ethnography Parliament Agricultural Ministry Bridge Statue of Imre Nagy Szabadság tér Belvárosi Vásárcsarnok National Savings Treasury Hungarian National Bank Szent István Basilica and tér Roosevelt tér Vörösmarty tér Waterfront Ferenciek tere University Church Nyugati Stollár Béla u.. 10 Szt. M BAJCSY ZSILINSZKY ÚT Postamúzeum u. ó tii als Pest r art a akp s r llsó a ai a B Bud eii u. 10 11 12 13 14 Hold u.

Sprawling in size and style. START: Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tér/Tram: 2 to Szalay utca. See p 10. Closed Mon. sit outside and contemplate this grand and spacious square’s contradictions. However. much of this neighborhood’s history lies nearer to the present. 1 Museum of Ethnography. The controversial Soviet War Memorial pays thanks to the Soviet forces for liberating Hungary from the Nazis. I like to grab a coffee at Café Farger at Zoltán utca 18. 2 ★★★ Parliament. hu. Despite the distinct air of faded grandeur. Vértanúk tere. bullet 3). was caught on tape at a supposed closed party convention admitting that his government had screwed it up and done nothing for the country.neprajz. On the inside. The Trianon Treaty of 1920 might have seen Hungary lose two-thirds of its Imre Nagy looks over to the parliament building. 4 = Bridge Statue of Imre Nagy. I always make a beeline for the arches of the Agricultural Ministry and walk along the covered passage watched by the busts of notable Magyar agriculturalists. but the Parliament is still there to be savored in all its glory. 10am–6pm. 3 = Agricultural Ministry. Nádor utca & Vécsey utca. bullet 6. its permanent exhibitions help give a perspective on the maverick Magyars. Hungary’s ill-fated leader is captured here in a moving forlorn pose (p 41. Corner of Báthory utca. 5 ★ = Szabadság tér. Look out for the marked bullet holes from the 1956 uprising-cum-revolution against the Soviets. This impressive neo-classical building helps counterbalance the power of the Parliament opposite and is situated in yet another beautiful Budapest square. In . @ 15 min–1 hr (depending on whether you visit the exhibition). territory and around the same in population. though ironically they then effectively stayed for more than 40 years.51 Belváros Y ou won’t be able to miss the size and extravagance of Hungary’s neo-Gothic Parliament that looks built for a superpower—which in fact Hungary was when it was completed in 1904. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tér/Tram: 2 to Szalay utca. www. Admission Ft 800. Hungary’s giant Parliament building signifies Hungary’s pre-Trianon might. which was severely vandalized in the 2006 riots for its association with the Socialist-led government. Kossuth Lajos tér 11. this is just the start of epic central Pest and on this tour you’ll see other landmark buildings from Budapest’s heyday. Kossuth Lajos tér 12. Ferenc Gyurcsány. The memorial faces the old Cold War foe in the form of the American Embassy. The then Prime Minister.

52 The Best Neighborhood Walks Bees making honey on the façade of the National Savings Treasury. 7 ★★★ National Savings Treasury. the stature of Hungary’s Central Bank is reflected in the size and drama of the building. bullet 5) is from the early 1990s when it was a neglected. Also. Like the epic Parliament building. modern Bank Center. Szabadság tér. tandem. 9 ★★★ Szent István Basilica and tér. y 1/332-3976. also of National Bank fame. sausages galore. that went up some 90 years later. in perhaps the most drastic action of the 2006 anti-government insurrection. Szent István tér. The building was originally constructed as the headquarters for the Budapest network of the Austro-Hungarian Bank in 1905. My first memory of Saint Stephen’s Basilica (p 9. 6:30am–2pm Sat. Closed Sun. Szabadság tér 8–9. (See p 15. it was designed by the financial institution architect supremo Ignác Alpár and stands in contrast to the slick. the building that houses the Hungarian State Television (MTV) was stormed by rightwing protestors and curious members of the onlooking crowd. The depictions of bees making honey. Comprising the opulent Academy of Sciences. An eclectic and empowering palatial structure. Head to the far end of this inner-city food market for a Hungarian version of fish ‘n’ chips. The vast structure was built by Ignác Alpár. blackened structure—a far cry from its gleaming condition now. 6:30am–5pm Mon. bullet 8. symbolizing moneymaking. The square itself is also looking good these days and appears to have been hand-polished. 8 Hungarian National Bank. 6 Belvárosi Vásárcsarnok. and cheap Chinese. next to which there’s a hole-in-the-wall eatery serving hearty Hungarian classics. can be seen on the exterior walls of this Art Nouveau masterpiece from Ödön Lechner. opposite it. Hold utca. and once housed the stock exchange. and the stunningly restored Art Nouveau Four Seasons Gresham . Hungary’s answer to Gaudí. on the left-hand side as you face Pest from the number 2 tram stop.) 0 ★★ Roosevelt tér. stalls selling deep-fried dough (lángos). 6:30am–6pm Tues–Fri.

This square is notable for Pest’s very own twin towers. They lie directly opposite each other. . A Baroque beauty tucked away in this less frequented but atmospheric corner of District V. Roosevelt tér. Free admission. The southern side. This under-utilized shopping arcade is finished in polished dark colors that resemble the interior of a cathedral and is topped off by intricate and sumptuously colored glasswork. Toward Christmas an ever-improving Christmas market pops up on the square where shoppers keep the cold off by imbibing mulled wine (forralt bor). Vörösmarty tér. One of the many mini-centers of Pest that is looking considerably better and more like an old town square now that a tasteful modern structure (parallel with the Danube. and seems to be lifted straight from turn-of-the-century Paris. neo-Renaissance Klondit and Matilda.53 Belváros Palace hotel opposite. Szent István Basilica. the ornate Habsburg-period. the new office building between them has enhanced the square no end. is the realm of the big hotels built to SocialistRealist specifications. Párizsi udvar (at Ferenciek tere 10–11/Petófi Sándor utca 2–8) is a grandiose forerunner of the modern shopping mall. Pretty Vigádo tér is named after the arch-windowed and pillared concert hall. Ask the friendly gentleman—who is eager to try out his English—if you can see the cloister. # ★★★ Ferenciek tere. The view looking between the buildings to the more modern bridge and to Gellért Hill is striking. Famous Hungarian saints and mythical Magyars feature in the side chapels while fading Baroque brushwork makes this the kind of church I like. It was built on the eve of World War I during the last phase of Budapest’s epic Austro-Hungarian construction frenzy. Egyetem ter. on the side closest to the river) has replaced the former Socialist-era monstrosity. $ ★★ University Church. @ 15 min. an impressive exit gate from Pest over Erzsébet Bridge. however. and form Locals rest on the steps at Vörösmarty tér. either side of the busy Szabadsajtó út. @ ★ = Walk the waterfront. ! ★ Vörösmarty tér.

z Sz ék e ely M Mi h há s Kiis ófa Diió Ká ldy á ác Ak u. u u. ru zá Lá . sy út Liszt Ferenc tér ófi Sz au . yar u Metro Station Múze t rút m ö um k 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Great Synagogue Rumbach utca Synagogue Madách Imre tér Gozsdu Udvár Kazinczy utca Synagogue Cari Mama Pizzeria Klauzál tér Kec s kem eti u. S Bródy ály r ihály té lla M Pollack r ándo u. Múzeu Kálvin tér .54 The Best Neighborhood Walks The Jewish Quarter 0 0 0.. Síp u. ány Doh t czi ú Rákó ir Szentkir rlóc s u. Wes Nagy zsinagóga nyi selé u. Fővárosi Önkormányzat 1 Ge start here u. yii u sán Csá P la au yE de u. lló u. Information Post Office M u Koss th La jos u . Elektrotechnikai Múzeum á ár u . Petőfi Irodalmi Múzeum Magyar Nemzeti Múzeum m u. Klauzál tér 7 fa yu Gy a la u . yu va dr An sy ás Ernst Múzeum z t tés u. Vas u BELVÁROS in Puskin ál ályi u. y zy n nc azi Ka Ho u. a Na gy zin Kazin y czy D Dió fa fa u . M Mag ar . k é réz T Te t t ö örú Kir ály u. ch 3 dá tér Ma re m I Kár oly kör ú mb ach Do Ru u. t r Ker Bajcsy Zsilinszky út Ré . M ASTORIA u. áll u uz K Kla Rumbach utca zsinagóga bu M DEÁK FERENC TÉR 2 Ny . t u. út . ym gy Na Operaház M OPERA ő ő ez u.. . 5 6 u. ály Kir 4 u ly . Eötvös Loránd Tudomány Egyetem (ELTE) Trefort u. s su ajó Ha r örú tk et éb rs Erz Zi c Ó u... zy u ..25 km 1/4 mi M OKTOGON hy J Magyar Fotográfusok Háza ás dr An en őu . finish here u..

is in the Moorish and Byzantine exterior. the back courtyard has a cemetery where a couple of thousand Jews. B 1 ★★★ Great Synagogue. was born within its grounds in 1860. However. While you’re more than likely to visit one of its hip nightspots. while the wing that houses the museum to the left side was added in 1931. The leaves of Imre Varga’s moving metallic weeping willow contain names of those who died in the holocaust. like the arched windows and trefoil ledge. Magnificent synagogues surrounded by crumbling buildings are the norm and it’s not hard to imagine that this was once a ghetto.55 The Jewish Quarter udapest is home to Central and Eastern Europe’s largest Jewish community and this neighborhood in District VII is its core. It also houses the Hungarian Jewish Museum. who perished in atrocious conditions. the Great Synagogue has been beautifully restored and reopened in 1995. are buried. After its consecration in 1859. are also apparent. the father of modern Zionism. who sought the establishment of a Jewish country in the Middle East. the revolutionary form influenced synagogue design internationally. . which is the world’s second largest synagogue after New York’s. Dohány utca 2 (corner of The Great Synagogue and Hungarian Jewish Museum. For me the real drama of the building. Some Gothic touches. START: M2 to Astoria then walk a couple of minutes to the Great Synagogue at Dohány utca 2 on the corner of Wesselényi utca. although the interior is suitably lavish. it’s not just the architecture of this Neolog house of worship that changed the course of history: Tivadar Herzl. designed by Viennese Ludwig Förster. @ 1 hr. Somewhat tucked away off the main drag. A central part of the ghetto in World War II. The twin onion-domed towers crown the building’s oldest part. it is well worth looking and nibbling around in the daytime when it’s steeped in atmosphere. Go early at 10am on weekdays before crowds in summer.

Viennese Otto Wagner built the so-called ‘status quo’ synagogue in 1872 using bright Moorish colors and topping the structure with a pair of classic mosque-like towers. 2 Rumbach utca Synagogue. 4 ★★★ Gozsdu Udvar. which has been used in numerous films. Continue down Rumbach utca and walk up Király utca to number 13. Although it no longer functions as a synagogue. A symbol of compromise between squabbling factions of the local Jewish community. visitors are sometimes allowed in to Rambach utca Synagogue can sometimes be entered for a small fee. Now it’s gone a bit upmarket (the idea is to turn it into a shopping arcade) compared to its state of decayed beauty of just a few years back. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Admission Ft 1. when it was home to just one solitary obstinate tenant who resisted the developers. 3 Arch between buildings at Madách Imre tér. Madách Imre tér. Wesselényi utca).56 The Best Neighborhood Walks The stunning tunnel-like courtyard Gozsdu Udvar. connects the upcoming and trendy Király utca with the still ghetto-like Dob utca.600. view the colorful turquoise-dominated interior for a small fee. Rumbach utca. The developers . This stunning tunnel-like courtyard network. The view back through the archway to Gellért Hill is spectacular. but the boulevard peters out quickly when a modern banking center crosses its path. However. The huge archway that connects the towering bright red-brick townhouses that look out onto the central boulevard of Károly körút was to have been the entry point to a new grand boulevard that would have graced Jewish Budapest. the tragic events of World War II put paid to that idea.

and 6 7 Klauzál tér. fried eggs. The smoked salmon ‘Smokey’ pizza is my. although the latter tend to have sold out by midday. onto which the back juts between two large townhouses. ★★ Cari Mama Pizzeria. although there’s a lack of market stalls with the space mainly taken up by a supermarket. For atmosphere head a few doors down to the Kádár Étkezde (p 100) for a late lunch (closes 4:30pm). The Kazinczy Synagogue boasts an awesome Art Nouveau façade. 5 Kazinczy utca Synagogue. the Arrow Cross. I just love how the Art Nouveau movement influenced the design of the city’s synagogues. half hidden down this narrow street. got their way. which is all the more remarkable when you think that this was commissioned by orthodox traditionalists. from the Frankel Leó side there’s a fully functioning synagogue amazingly tucked inside a courtyard. which is the work of Hungary’s secessionist Kings Lechner and Lajta who used Zsolnay ceramics in the design. salads. Kazinczy utca 28. but. sandwiches. y 1/342-0231. Passing many times from the Danube side.gozsduudvar. However. I thought it was simply bricked up.10am–3:30pm Mon–Thurs. and patchwork tablecloths. @ 30 min. fortunately. www. stands as a memorial to victims of Hungary’s Nazi party. pastries. Konczi Kert. soda siphons to dilute raspberry cordial (málna szörp). ambient square has seen a lot in its history.57 The Jewish Quarter Best of the Rest of Jewish Budapest The functioning synagogue at Frankel Leó út 49 is a bizarre sight. a few hundred yards from Parliament in the direction of the Chain Bridge. Admission Ft 800. They then fell straight into the river. Enter from Király utca 13 or Dob utca 16. This 40m/130ft row of sculpted iron shoes. 10am–12:30pm Fri & Sun.hu. The ironwork doorway into the indoor market hall retains some pre-war charm. near the Király utca entrance. of course. this is the genuine article with pictures of past celebrities. This big. The main Budapest Jewish cemetery at Kozma utca 3 in District X (y 1/262-4687) contains some stunning Art Nouveau tombs. The Holocaust Memorial Center at Páva utca 39 in District IX (y 1/455-3333) charts the tragic path from deprivation of rights to genocide for local Jews and Roma. So far only one bar. Quick and crispy Kosher pizza. favorite. and many other people’s. Kazinczy utca 29–31. Klauzál tér. who in 1944 and 1945 shot Jews after making them take off their shoes. Forget retro. You still pay the man on the door on the way out for what you’ve had. Another chilling reminder of many of the local Jewish population’s terrible fate comes from the permanent ‘Shoes on the Danube Promenade’ memorial. $. much of the old atmosphere remains. especially that of the Schmidl family. is open (summer 2008). created in 2005 by Gyula Pauer and Can Togay. = .

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4 ★ Corvin tér. Often compared to a pair of imperious ‘silent’ lions. which effectively makes up the fourth corner of the square despite being on the other side of the Danube. particularly Ponty utca (Carp Street) that starts down on Fó utca. as well as the eclectic-looking turnof-the-century Budai Vigadó at number 8. 3 Budai alsó rakpart and the Chain Bridge. especially at the weekend when all’s peaceful. Anne’s church and a number of colorful houses. bullet 7. Batthyány tér. I find the square at its best on weekends when the traffic is sparse. . Fast food Hungarian style with sweet and savory pancakes. The Baroque attractions include St. plus salads and filled jacket potatoes. The impressive market hall is a more recent addition. Batthyány tér 5. The main sights are down toward the river but I also recommend climbing the steep picturesque streets. which is home to the Hungarian National Folk Ensemble. Bijou café right on pretty Corvin tér that enables you to refuel while admiring the Baroque houses or the view up to Castle Hill. bullet 6). Here you’ll find another haven of Baroque buildings clustered either side of the square. Strikingly situated directly opposite Parliament (see p 10. There’s also plenty of both solid and intricate ironwork hanging from the buttresses. bullet 0) and you’ll be sitting in the church’s former crypt. $. See p 11. and grand staircases.59 The Watertown (Viziváros) I love wandering this gem-packed small area wedged between the Castle District and the Danube. The bustling Batthyány tér. Budapest’s most famous bridge features two arched neo-classical buttresses that rise high above the water. Stroll along next to the tree-lined tramline overlooking the Danube to the Chain Bridge. $. It’s worth peeking inside for the Art Nouveau interior decoration. including one sunk below street level. 5 2 Nagyi Palacsintázója. Sip a coffee in the famous Café Angelica (p 37. Batthyány tér is a haven of Baroque beauty in this busy part of Buda. START: M2 to Batthyány tér. they were sculpted by János Marschalkó who curiously didn’t give them tongues. Corvin Kávézö. 1 ★★★ Batthyány tér.

u. nka u ó ó I lo Szab e) e) Duna (Danub sM cs Bem rakpart . u. Gyorgy tér 1 start Sikló here Magyar Nemzeti Galéria Budapesti Történeti Múzeum t aú . Matthias Church Equestrian Statue of King István Fisherman’s Bastion Ruszwurm Cukrászda De rék u.. András tér 5 Halászbástya tér ót hÁ Mátyás a rp Lo templom 3 4 g s út ád s u. TABÁN zt u Keres . u. Cz M H Metro Station HÉV Station Royal Palace Miró Café St. Levéltár Frank Bécsi Hadtörténeti VÍZIVÁROS Tán kapu tér csi Múzeum Fo 10 9 rt Mária Magdolna Zenetorteneti torony VÁ ág Múzeum há zu Úr . orgy G yo . Várfok u.. Szt. Ka Hunfalvy u Szt. . NAPHEGY zső u.. ny Fe Or vo su . thy tro Szabó Ilonka Bat ló mu tér u. Hu Pala ny ad i Já i n n as út rr Tá u. nc u y Fere Toldy a . llot Pa au ja rral V Vá Budavári palota ly Pá . yu templom tra here Má 11 lin u. la u Ka p t áti on Do u. i tér z Szt. Várszínház u z u. Toldy Ferenc u . á u ihály u u. Hattyú u. u. 6 Ponty 2 y o Isko . na un la u. Fő út Úr .. tila Kri út szt ina kö rút L Lis z zn a ya iu M Més u ár s záro 1 2 3 4 5 6 A Avar u u. Donáti u c . őu . Hess Corvin iu . z sz O Or un Hunyadi János ó só Budai alls i od tn étá Vérmező Kr isz t tiila A At u u. u.. 7 8 9 10 11 András Hadik’s Equestrian Statue Cave Hospital and Bunker Magdalene Tower Táncsics Mihály utca and Tóth Árpád sétány Bécsi kapu tér . De Information Post Office Széchényi Könyvtár Dózsa Vá György tér ral ja At u.25 km Batthyány u.. ás u . finish . Ku rvá ny u. 1/4 mi 0. Ka K apu c t rakpart ú út 8 7 Arany Sas Patikamúzeum no k u.60 The Best Neighborhood Walks The Castle District Fazekas u. .. eg yu . Széna tér 0 Medve Csalogány u. Má Tigris u. Anna . Tig ris ak óu . z á Szíính Pa ul e ru Széchenyi Clark lánchíd Ádám tér Budavári ny Do mo ko su . Iskola Fő út Szalag u. d Tád út út y ri Gyo eu . Krisztina tér Alagú t u. au Ge Na llé ph rth eg yu . Naphegy tér Fém u.. ii u no ú s út na kö rú t Disz kó Mi u. ány Os Batthyány H BATTHYÁNY u. M TÉR gy . ó uszk Kosciiu u u. os á Ján t th F Fiá T ov v L 0 u.

Its grand design was literally made fit for a King—Austria’s Franz Josef I—by leading local architects after the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867. help put much of the Budapest jigsaw into place. T 1 ★★★ Royal Palace. The sweeping views down the Danube and over to Pest from the Castle Gardens.61 The Castle District he opulence of the repeatedly razed and rebuilt Royal Palace and St. $$. Being Budapest’s most tourist-infested area I recommend an early start. They are. The ramparts are much older. . just the beginning of this historic and richly bequeathed district. The imposing and multi-faceted Royal Palace may have become a Royal Residence in the 14th century but it dates back further to the 13th-century Mongol invasion of Hungary. 16/16A/116 to Dísz tér. The Palace took a serious battering when the Turks were evicted in 1686. however. Úri utca 30. which looks like it’s about to fly away from all the tourists. 2 Miró Café. START: Bus 16/16A/116 to Dísz tér. which is quite a bit more expensive than the bus. breakfast and light lunch is also served. and the stretch south of Szent György tér dates back to Sigismund of Luxembourg’s rule in the early 15th century. and the first attempts at rebuilding it were much more austere than the opulence you see today. There is also the Sikló (funicular) for Ft 800 to the Castle gate from Clark Ádám tér below the Castle. Known for its ice cream. If you alight from the funicular right next to the entrance you’re greeted by a statue of the mythical Magyar bird the Turul. The main attraction on the inside of the Royal Palace is the National Gallery (p 131). This necessarily colorful tribute to Catalan Surrealist artist Joan Miró is a fun contrast to the almost overpowering architecture of the Castle District. @ 1–2 hr. Matthias Church dramatically portrays Hungary’s trials and tribulations. In the outer courtyard. At Dísz tér. y 1/201-5573. Alajos Stróbl’s King Matthias’s Fountain dates back to 1904 and fits perfectly in the niche in the Palace wall. but it’s also great at night. which you enter through an ornamental gate. The imposing and multi-faceted Royal Palace.

y 1/489-0716. 4 Equestrian Statue of King István. Bus 16/16A/116 to Dísz tér. The seven Disney-like mini towers might look custom-built for Snow White’s troupe. While King Matthias Corvinus didn’t build the church from scratch. having two of his three marriages there. Szentháromság tér 2. Hungary’s first monarch reminds everyone who’s boss in Hungary’s story. which is topped off by an extraordinarily multi-colored tiled roof. Charles Robert was the first to be crowned here in 1308. 19thcentury artists Károly Lotz and Bertalan Székely bring Hungarian legends and history to life inside. Matthias Church. Free to pray. I love the calm and soft tones of the interior. hence the smooth integration with its two surrounding sights. but the altarpiece on which the statue rests is from Frigyes Schulek’s design. Matthias Church (Mátyás Templom). He also made good use of it. Popping up right between Matthias Church and the Fisherman’s Bastion. while Charles IV was the last in 1916 and indeed the last Habsburg Monarch. Just a stone’s throw away from the Fisherman’s Bastion lies the mainly neo-Gothic St. Frigyes Schulek hacked away some of the 15th-century additions in a rather impressive bid to restore the church’s original look. @ 30 min. . and the color of the roof gives something modern (well. which is also one of the few places where the din of tourist chatter dies down.62 The Best Neighborhood Walks Ornate altar in St. 3 ★★★ St. he did extend and repair the then 200-year-old Gothic structure in the 15th century. In preparing for the millennium celebrations in 1896. The statue itself is the work of master sculptor Alajos Stróbl. He even stole King Matthias’s thunder by putting the first church up here in 1015. Matthias Church. but the fact that there Equestrian statue of King István. it was cutting edge in 1896) to the neo-Gothic visage. Admission Ft 700. 5 ★★★ = Fisherman’s Bastion.

9 = Magdalene Tower. testicles of this Huszár’s horse is anybody’s guess. still family-run Budapest institution (p 37. 8 = Cave Hospital and Bunker.560 sq ft runs underneath the Castle and served as a World War II hospital and Cold War nuclear shelter.000. The fascinating subterranean complex of 2. Lovas út 4c. This large 13th-century Franciscan church was almost consigned to the history books by allied bombing in World War II. This fairytale blend of neoGothic and neo-Romanesque. @ 30 min. y 1/375-5284. 10am–6pm. affords stunning views over to Parliament and sprawling Pest. Statue of András Hadik and his lucky horse. conjured up by Frigyes Schulek. bringing both Protestants and Catholics to worship here. . In the early days of the Ottoman occupation. bullet !). Admission Ft 3. $–$$. The steps that run down beside it were poorly guarded when the invading Turks piled in to seize the Castle. even taking Berlin and serving as the protector of Buda Castle. 7 András Hadik’s Equestrian Statue. Quite why it is that students from the nearby Engineering University consider it good luck before exams to rub the big brassy The fairytale towers of the Fisherman’s Bastion. but in different parts of the church. but it’s one of the few remaining activities that’s free in the Castle District.63 The Castle District are seven refers rather to the seven leaders of the Magyar tribes who galloped in to claim Hungary in 896 AD. Admission Ft 400 to enter the towers but you can explore the lower parts for free. the Turks allowed Christians to use the church. 6 = ★★★ Ruszwurm Cukrászda. closed Mon. Szentháromság utca 7. Hadik incidentally was a Slovak who rose to the high rank of commander in the Austrian army serving in the Seven Years War. but the tower and a Gothic vaulted window obstinately rise out of the ghostly ruins thanks to reconstruction completed in 1997. Refuel over coffee with a green marzipan-topped Mátyás cake at this cute and cozy.000 sq m/6.

some earlier. Noted Greek and Roman guru József Grigely once lived at 7 Bécsi kapu tér. such as number 10 with its upper niche containing a vase and shell. overlooks the square. directly opposite. These streets. is a tribute to writer Ferenc Kazinczy and his efforts to develop the Hungarian language in the 18th century when its usage was far from universal. but unlike Martinovics. Beethoven once stayed here. the fountain. you can see houses that have been built on the original medieval foundations. The ‘Vienna Gate’ is where the Hungarians finally overpowered the Turks to re-enter and reclaim the Castle in 1686. At 32 Úri utca. though the Vienna Gate that stands here today dates back to just 1936 (see p 32. Steeped in history itself. On Táncsics Mihály utca. check out at the partly preserved Gothic sedilia next to the gate. Great views from the Castle District. Substantially less imposing is the tiny Lutheran church on the opposite side of the square. ! ★★ Bécsi kapu tér. Later it was converted into a mosque. look out for the elaborate courtyard of former Eródy mansion at number 7. many of which date back to the 19th and 18th centuries. Tóth Árpád sétány skirts around the perimeter of the inner Castle District and is great for a walk with a view. which accounts for the relief featuring Pallas Athena and Classical authors including the likes of Virgil and Socrates. 22 and 5. with its colorfully tiled Zsolnay roof. Kazinczy didn’t have an easy time of it though and was sentenced to death for his role as a Jacobin along with the movement’s leader Ignác Martinovics. It seems fitting that the domineering National Archives building. At the square’s center. which was once part of the Jewish quarter. Bécsi kapu tér. priest of the Magdalene Church. Fortuna utca features charming neo-classical and Baroque houses. you realize that the Castle District isn’t just a museum-piece and that people do actually live in these cute houses. while the triangle of houses on Országház utca at numbers 20. feature a Gothic ledge with arch. Foreigners who are struggling with this seemingly impenetrable language at least have someone to blame. . bullet 5). respectively. Here. returning to its former use after the Turks were expelled. hold more fascination for me than the more famous sights. a fabulous bay window. Kazinczy survived. Kapisztrán tér. which is now home to the Music History Institute. On the same street. and a stunning gate. slightly away from the madding tourist crowd.64 The Best Neighborhood Walks of course. 0 ★★★ Explore the old cobbled streets between Táncsics Mihály utca and Tóth Árpád sétány. Like the Hungarian language. which features a girl protecting a sacred light.

4 The Best Shopping .

66

The Best Shopping

Shopping Best Bets
Best American Mall Experience
★★ Arena Plaza, Kerepesi út 9 (p 78) and ★★ Westend City Center, Váci út 1–3 (p 78)

Best Food Market
★★★ Great Market Hall, Vámház körút 1–3 (p 77)

Best Funky Gifts
★★ Szupernova, Irányi utca 20 (p 73) and ★★ Repüló Tehén, Hajós utca (p 77)

Best Art Auction House
★★★ Kieselbach, Szent István körút 5 (p 71) and ★★★ Virág Judit Mú-terem, Falk Miksa utca 30
(p 72)

Best Handmade Shoes
★★ Vass Shoes, Harris köz 2 (p 76)

Best Bejing-style Market Experience
★ Józsefvárosi Piac, Kóbányai út 21–23 (p 76)

Best Hats
★★ V50 Design Art Studio, Váci utca 50 (p 73)

Best Hungarian Designer
★★★ Katti Zoób, Szent István körút 17 (p 73)

Best Ceramics
★★★ Herend, József Nádor tér 11 (p 73) and ★★★ Zsolnay, Váci utca 19–21 (p 73)

Best Jewelry
★★★ Wladis Galéria és Múterem, Falk Miksa utca 13 (p 75)

Best for Firewater
★ Magyar Pálinka Háza (House of Hungarian Pálinka), Rákóczi út 17 (p 80) and ★★ Zwack Shop, Soroksári út (p 80)

Best Retro Magyar Sneakers
★ Tisza Cipó, Károly körút 1 (p 76)

Best Salami
★★ Pick Márkaáruház, Kossuth Lajos tér 9 (p 79)

Best Flea Market
★★★ Ecseri Piac, Nagykörösi út 156 (p 76)

Best Wine Shop
★★ Bortársaság, Batthyány utca 59 or Szent István tér 3 (p 80)

Handmade footwear at Vass Shoes.

67

Shopping Best Bets

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Rot s zsa .70 The Best Shopping Outer Pest Shopping Arena Plaza 1 Ecseri Piac 2 Fakopáncs 3 Iguana 4 Józsefvárosi Piac 5 Monarchia 6 PECSA Flea Market 7 Zwack Shop 8 ly u.. ru te e Feh . Józse 3 Tızo ltó u. or . Orc Rezső M NAGYVÁRAD tér TÉR Botanikus or u kert Sánd . i ny Magyar Bíró Klinikák Korá Természettudományi Lajo Reg s u. KLINIKÁK M Ve nd el u. óhíd Üllő állii G Gy i út Blá thy ód Tin r So bie ton u s . Szt. s Diós Üllő i út Tömő u. Teleki ély László tér Erd Kerepesi temető me ii út or ú t t Mátyás tér gd Ma Józsefvárosi plébániatemplom Horváth Baross u. 5 Práter u. á át u erh Cse nyi u. Országos ef u s Földtani Józ t ú rek Múzeum . . s u. . u. i u. á Kir Se . mj Da yu erd Pet ök oly ú t Ab o ERZSÉBETVÁROS . Pét er u . u Luj . B Bet er u bill nb tte u. a Da nk ó óu Kálvária tér Kőris u.. ge e en au rrsf H Há u u. za JÓZSEFVÁROS Práter u. u u urá Mu nád rn H He BLAHA LUJZA TÉR c Rákó zi út 1 M Blaha Lujza tér u. ly K álm án u. Illés u. ardo da Vinci u. Salgóta rjani u. Fiu sis u. Futó u. u. Ma stván bu I Do Kisstadion Bethlen Gábor tér Puskás u. y . iia u u ffán za z G S Ste y Gé h h Zic Z ry örg G Gy út r b ábo nG h hle r . István Kórház u. ó óu Holl ér H út . i út Eln út ök zy u. ö Vö s rös Cs . László Kórház FERENCVÁROS M NÉPLIGET Üllő i út Kön Gá t Le u. oly sse Pét Dózsa G ray Thök We Almássy . yörgy ú Ga tér u Szt. ozi bo Do u. 4 Vajdahunnyad u. i u. yu art ma u. o Vár eti slig M HŐSÖK TERE 7 Műcsarnok Városliget Felvonulási tér r aso f h nic u. Ferenc Stadion ánd iu Verseny u. nh os sék Malomipari Múzeum Dandár gyógyfürdő 8 . T Tu zo ó ltó u. Lilio mu Páva . Erzsébett Magyar y Keleti án Sportmúzeum Baross Pályaudvar oh plébániatemplom D KELETI tér Kerepesi út M PÁLYAUDVAR a . rédj Beze Köztársaság tér Th z zsa D Dó ISTVANMEZŐ ey ms . Vig u. Mihály tér Nap u.. Golgota tér zegi e . Szigony u. őu . ru do An ú út . Közlekedési Múzeum Post Office M Metro Station Thermal Bath A jt ós iD üre rs or ny iu . Te ki Já le n Em pi u os u. au u. Iparművészeti Múzeum 6 M FERENC KÖRÚT Leon Fere nc k Angy örút al u. uly Ludovika Múzeum An tér tal Orczy kert Üllő u. Vill yve ám s Ká u.. a R Ró ella u b b IIsa József körút Mária u. bet zsé Erz út oksári Sorok ö t körú As Aszt alos nd Sánd Né p Rákóczi éri Miksa u tér D f u. Orczy Kőbánya tér i út Kőris u. Bérkoc szính áz u. lmá nk örú t Vio Ferenc tér Tha . Józsefyárosi pályaudvar Baross u. oln . s M Me . la u Má Ott óu . ery . Baross u. Haller u Planetárium Albert Flórián Stadion 2 Vág 0 0 0. uel u S Sám Golg Vaj da Orczy út ota u. ny t fy S ú lé er u.5 km 1/2 mi Szt.

holds the world record for the auction of a Hungarian painting at $1. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. ★★ Ernst Gallery CENTRAL PEST Charming gallery dealing in en vogue ‘neglected’ local artists. Map p 68. y 1/266-4016 or 1/266-4017. V.71 Budapest Shopping A to Z Budapest Shopping A to Z Art & Antiques ★★★ Boulevard és Brezsnyev CENTRAL PEST Cutting-edge paintings and objets d’art at reasonable prices from fledgling artists with innovative exhibitions opposite. and sculptures from a talented younger generation. Inda offers paintings. Irányi utca 27 (corner of Cukor utca). No credit cards. Art Nouveau and Art Deco furniture. Király utca 34 2/4 (corner of Székely Mihály utca). installations. . who Picasso referred to as the other great painter of the 20th century. Király utca 39.hu. Map p 68.) y 0630/944-5778. MC. www. www. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér.hu.bbgaleria.ernstgaleria. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. ★★★ Kieselbach Gallery and Auction House CENTRAL PEST This prestigious auction house. (Temporary exhibitions: Király utca 46. MC. Also sells vintage posters. www. Map p 68. V. Biedermeier. It also holds exhibitions. ★ Inda Gallery CENTRAL PEST Located on arty Király utca but hidden away on the second floor of a townhouse. Szent István körút 5 (corner of Ernst Gallery for Art Deco furniture and other treasures. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. decorative and applied arts.inda galeria. which marks the start of Pest’s gallery-rich Falk Miksa utca. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. y 1/413-1960. plus Baroque.42 million for a Csontváry. AE.hu.

Also great for newspapers and magazines. Map p 68. y 1/269-3148 or 1/269-3149.800 sq m/5. y 1/322-0774.hu. ★ Pintér Antik CENTRAL PEST Huge selection of antiques. Metro: M3 to Arany János utca. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. Books (English Language) ★ Bestsellers CENTRAL PEST Although Bestsellers has plenty of healthy competition these days.kieselbach. Metro: M3 to Arany János utca. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. Map p 68. www.V. DC. Map p 68. Csontváry. József Nádor tér 11. MC. ★★★ Herend CENTRAL PEST From tasteful and intricate traditional items to light and breezy. A national treasure. (Branches: Lázár utca 6. Regular auctions. jewelry. www. and antiquities. Október 6. Metro: M1 to Oktogon.hu. www. MC. along with Art Nouveau ceramics from Zsolnay for sale and auction. ★★ Nagyházi Galéria CENTRAL PEST Prominent auction house offering everything from paintings and sculpture to furniture.treehugger. folk art.and 20thcentury Hungarian paintings from big names in local art.bestsellers. No credit cards. AE. V. DC. albeit a pricey one. y 1/312-2071. (Branch: Andrássy út 17. y 1/311-4094. ★ Treehugger Dan’s Bookstore & Café CENTRAL PEST Choose a used paperback with a cup of Fairtrade coffee.mu-terem. clocks. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér. Treehugger Dan’s Bookstore & Café. V. Sütó utca 2. y 1/475-6000 or 1/475-2090. MC. AE. traditional and modern paintings. www.) Map p 68.) Map p 68. and Queen Victoria was among its fans. its multi-genre selection of new English language books is hard to beat.72 The Best Shopping Falk Miksa utca).900 sq ft. MC. Map p 68. Ceramics ★ Haas és Czjzek CENTRAL PEST Look out for Hollóháza with its funky Four Seasons design featuring a woman’s face in each season. AE. and sculpture for sale that is spread over 1. www. chandeliers. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér.nagyhazi. V. V. MC.herend. Regular readings hosted. y 1/ 317-2622.pinter antik. as well as plates from Alföldi (that serve many restaurants) plus Herend and Zsolnay. . AE. Bajcsy Zsilinszky út 23 (corner of Zichy Jenó utca). Falk Miksa utca 10 (corner of Markó utca).hu. DC. and RipplRónai. Map p 68.hu.hu. carpets. Falk Miksa utca 30. y 1/312-1295. including Munkácsy. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. objets d’art. www. Cards. Herend’s legendary porcelain is always classy. y 1/311-3030. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. AE. Balaton utca 8 (corner of Falk Miksa utca). MC. V. ★★★ Virág Judit Mú-terem Gallery and Auction House CENTRAL PEST 19th. Csengery utca 48.com. V. utca 11. MC. Map p 68. www. Metro: M2 to Kossuth tér.hu. DC.

Fashion—Hungarian Designers ★★ Eclectick CENTRAL PEST Funky. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek utca). www. utca 15. Map p 68. plus other Hungarian labels like Aquanauta. y 1/266-3341. plastic rabbits. easy-going country-style designs from Hungary’s renowned ceramics producer—still handmade—without breaking the bank. Look out for her city-themed collection.winning.hu.73 Budapest Shopping A to Z Herend Village Pottery BUDA More cute and colorful. Map p 68. Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. and Kriszta Marosi. www. Also some objects like the award-winning egg holder. V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. sleek minimalist interior design from sofas and shelves to kitchen furniture and lamps . but Valéria Fazekas’s designer hats are wearable yet guaranteed to turn heads.hu. MC. y 0620/828-9327. y 1/270-0107. V. Design ★ Forma Bolt CENTRAL PEST You never know when a plastic duck or frog-shaped bottle opener will come in handy. y 0620/973-0443. Hungarian and international designers. Heart and Roll. y 1/266from Zsolnay. Bem rakpart 37 (between Vitéz utca and Csalogány utca).herend majolika. gepetto. Red Aster. sleeveless shirts. as . Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Irányi utca Ferenciek tere 4. Unique ceramics International award. AE. Map p 67. Map p 68. cool but playful clothes and accessories from Eclectick.) Map p 68.forma. Map p 68. V. Come here for these and other wacky items.hu. y 1/356-7899. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. No credit cards. Fashion—Hats ★★ V50 Design Art Studio CENTRAL PEST Not quite as daring as Philip Treacy. and printed T-shirts are for guys who want to turn heads. Its iridescent eosin technology also makes unique ceramics. Katona József Herczeg CENTRAL PEST With a bit of a rock ‘n’ roll feel and a touch of metrosexuality to it. V. www. MC. 5053. No credit cards. MC. MC.eclectick. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. ★★ Szupernova CENTRAL PEST Fun and colorful contemporary and retro interior design objects from ★★★ Katti Zoób CENTRAL PEST Internationally acclaimed Katti Zoób creates flowing and classy feminine designs from top Italian fabrics. Map p 68. Teréz körút 35. Look out for the groovy tin robots. 20 (corner of Károlyi Mihály V.hu. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. should you wish to add a unique touch of authentic contemporary Budapest design to your home. Downstairs from Eclectick. and golden ducks. Metro: M2 to Batthyány tér. Váci utca 19–21 (corner of Párizsi utca). (Branch: Belgrád rakpart 16.szupernova. www. M1 to Oktogon. y 1/266-6305. Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. Camou. ★★ Gepetto CENTRAL PEST Map p 68. MC. tere. ★★★ Zsolnay CENTRAL PEST Zsolnay’s colorful and superdurable pyrogranite tiles adorn the roofs of some of Budapest’s most spectacular buildings. Irányi utca 20. y 1/ 3375-320.co. www. Tram: 4/6 to Nyugati pu. PUCC. Zoltán Herczeg’s checked and torn trousers. Váci utca 50. No credit cards.

Látomás CENTRAL PEST Upcoming designers like Kati Nádasdi. Anh Tuan. Map p 68. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Tamara Barnuff. y 0620/959-9444. . Designer Outlet BUDA Quality never goes out of fashion even if it’s a few seasons behind. DKNY. MC. Tram: 47/49. ★★ Vasseva CENTRAL PEST A cute little shop on a side street off Liszt Ferenc tér selling Éva Vass’s creations and interior décor items. AE.hu. y 1/342-8159. Brand Colorful Hungarian design at Eclectick. ★ Naray Tamas CENTRAL PEST All that glitters is not gold in this Francophile designer Tamás Náray’s chichi showroom in the Ybl Palace. Perhaps not using the best fabric expected of a famous designer you might just stumble upon the dress of your life. and the result is wearable clothes but with the edge you would expect from a costume designer.naray company. Zuppa. Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. www. No credit cards. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. and Balkán Tangó at bargain prices. Szent István körút 17. Fashion—International Designers ★★ Byblos—Fashion Street CENTRAL PEST Film producer Andy Vajna opened this exclusive 600 sq m/1. and artist. www. Byblos Blu. Je Suiss Belle. Deák Ferenc utca 17 (corner of Bécsi utca). and Mark Jacobs at approaching bargain prices. AE. M. Two hundred new items arrive every Thursday from the likes of Ralph Lauren. Tram: 4/6.970 sq ft shop in 2007 selling Byblos. and some Rocco Barocco clothes and accessories. Henszlman Imre utca 1. Map p 68. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Paulay Ede utca 67. stylist. y 1/266-5052. Map p 68. y 1/266-2473. Dohány utca 16–18. MC. Roberto Cavalli. V. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér.hu. Use Unused. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér or Oktogon. V. Lollypopp. names like Nanushka. MC. www. V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. y 0630/556-2814. Original ideas are combined with interesting materials. y 1/337-1908. V. ★★ Sine Nomine CENTRAL PEST A shop showcasing talented young Hungarian designers exuding as much taste as the feminine dresses. AE. MC. and accessories. although you might find yourself wading through some garish items before finding a gem. No credit cards. Lacy and embroidered fine details appear in her haute couture range.V.kattizoob. y 1/312-1865.hu. ★ Retrock Deluxe CENTRAL PEST A turn-of-the-century salon turned into a madhouse of crazy works by young Hungarian designers. Map p 68. Map p 68. y 1/345-4133. MC.latomas. V. Andrássy út 57 (between Eötvös and Csengery utca). beautiful knitwear. Map p 68. Map p 68. Lövóház utca 12 (Fény utca Piac).74 The Best Shopping well as distinctive jewelry and accessories using Zsolnay ceramics. Károlyi Mihály utca 12.

AE. Map p 67.000. necklaces about Ft 30. V. Chloé. Tram: 4/6. y 1/373-0487. DC. www. G-Star Raw. Fehérhajó utca 12–14.hu. 8/D.hu. Map p 68. y 1/215-3475. y 1/318-4089. MC. Vladimir’s original jewelry reflects traditional and ancient designs. Map p 67. www.vargadesign. Andrássy út 24. V. www. DC. you might find Fashion—Secondhand Ciánkáli OUTER BUDA The largest stock of retro vintage clothes is quite a way from downtown but you’re sure to find something that will still set contemporary pulses racing.majomke trec. AE.75 Budapest Shopping A to Z something on sale. M. V.principe. . AE. and Ferre. Falk Miksa utca 13 (corner of Balaton utca). ★★ Louis Vuitton CENTRAL PEST Just a few steps away from the opera house this exclusive shop offers a stunning collection of bags and suitcases for those who know the difference between a real and a fake LV bag. Just Cavalli. Mainly secondhand clothes. MC. Replay. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Repülótéri út 6. (Branch: Tompa utca 1. Map p 68. Map p 68. MC. Map p 68. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. y 1/3181119. y 1/317-1627. Metro: M1 to Opera. V.wladis galeria.hu. www. Krúdy Gyula utca 9. shoes.hu.heavenstore. www. Váci utca 50 (corner of Nyári Pál utca). and retro accessories for sale. DC. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. ★★★ Heaven Store CENTRAL PEST The first high-flying multibrand store in Budapest offering personal appointments and a good selection of brands including Patrizia Pepe. John Galliano.000.hu.) Map p 70. Plus. Map p 68. Like a spider’s web. ★★★ Principe Divat Szalon CENTRAL PEST A good selection of the latest collection of luxury brands such as Dolce & Gabbana. www. Iguana CENTRAL PEST If it’s a Jesus or Elvis T-shirt you’re missing. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér. V. Tram: 41 to Repülótér. MC. y 1/266-8335. AE. Haris Köz 6. pop in to Iguana. MC. y 0630/456-7018. V. No credit cards. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. ★★★ Wladis Galéria és Múterem CENTRAL PEST Peter Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér.iguana retro. each item is unique. hu. Tram: 4/6 to Széna tér. Fashion—Jewelry ★★ Varga Design CENTRAL PEST Handmade jewelry based on Miklós Varga’s patented approach to imitate the image of sun reflecting on dewdrops collecting on a cobweb. y 1/354-0834. Chunky but classy sculpted pieces made from quality silver with rings starting from around Ft 20. Drop by Iguana for Secondhand clothes and accessories. if you’re lucky. and Stella McCartney among others.

rocking horses. Map p 68. Giuseppe Zanotti. Good Chinese food. There’s another store in the Westend shopping mall (see p 78). look out for funky tops and jackets. AE. Paintings. Tram: 28 to Orczy tér. y 1/313-8890. and so on. AE. Bus: 54 to Alvinc utca. y 1/266-3055. Russian dolls. y 1/318-2375.hu. Bric-a-brac at Ecseri Piac flea market. John Richmond. medals. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Moschino. it feels pretty close to being in China. Zsolnay ceramics. MC. Harris köz 2. Open mornings at the weekend. soda siphons. ★★ Vass Shoes CENTRAL PEST Handmade shoes that fit perfectly. y 1/363-3730. Kóbányai út 21–23. ★ PECSA Flea Market OUTER PEST With the abundance of fake brands. DC. V. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. M2/M3 to Deák tér. Map p 68. V . even antique BMW bubble cars: it’s all there. y 1/348-3200. V. ★ Tisza Cipó CENTRAL PEST Retro sneakers with the trademark ‘T’ on each design from Hungary’s very own casual shoemaker. www. ★ Józsefvárosi Piac OUTER PEST While the bottom is likely to fall out of the jeans you buy quicker than it takes you to walk around this sprawling Chinese market. Map p 70. Zichy Mihály utca. Metro: M1 to Széchenyi fürdó. László Vass has managed to turn the old traditional shoemaking profession into a modern business. Map p 70.hu.76 The Best Shopping Fashion—Shoes ★★ Bizanc Boutique CENTRAL PEST The best assortment of the season’s designer shoes for men and women from Jimmy Choo. Fur and leather coats. Map p 70. AE. Tram: 47/49 to Astoria. www. Bargaining expected. too.tiszacipo. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér. chunky transistor radios. with handbags to match.vass-cipo. Also. Váci utca 9. MC. GML. . Map p 68. Károly körút 1 (corner of Rákóczi út). Anna Sui. I feel momentarily transported back to pre-1989 Budapest when I visit this market. Flea Markets ★★★ Ecseri Piac OUTER PEST Remarkable flea market packed with some quality antiques and no end of Socialist-era bric-à-brac. old motorbikes. and more. MC. furniture. y 1/317-8368. Nagykörösi út 156. boast amazing quality of material and precise craftsmanship.

MC. (corner of Akácfa utca). Arioso is also an interior designer. V.hu. tins of chestnut to haggle in return for guarpuree. Katalin Hampel CENTRAL PEST Hungarian and European folk cosFunky Gifts tumes adapted ‘for the modern ★★ Repüló Tehén (Flying woman’. Klauzál tér 14 Map p 67. MC. Playboy bottle Map p 68. MC. anteed quality from serious Plenty of painted folk art artisans. Much more than flowers. ★ Fény utca piac BUDA Made Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. and ceramics tubes of paprika for those who don’t want paste. hams. Map p 68. V. Tram: 2/47/49 to Fóvám tér.77 Budapest Shopping A to Z Flowers ★★ Arioso CENTRAL PEST Creative arrangements verging on designer. Váci utca 58. Food Markets www. this neighborhood market lacks the fin-de-siècle charm of some of its peers. Credit cards not to Ferenciek tere. bullet 3) PEST Folk art this is a great products includplace to pick up ing embroidered ‘Hungaricums’ like tablecloths. but makes up for it in the range of Hungarian agricultural produce. y 1/345-4101. Hajós utca 19. For fine cheese. from 1970s-style iron and girders. MC. although some outfits. Metro: ★ Bio Market BUDA Taste just M1 to Opera. www. y 0620/597-0893. Király utca 9.voltbolt. Map p 68. www.) Map p 68. ★★★ Great Market Hall CENTRAL PEST Aside Folk Art from the archi★ Folkart Centecture (see trum CENTRAL p 17. are more the Cow’ is jammed with zany gifts from preserve of period ballgoers. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér. Map p 68. or other festivals. AE. and just the ticket if you’ve been invited to dinner. y 1/2663555. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. y 0620/ 385-0827. Map p 67. Metro: M3 1–3.arioso. y 1/214-7005. Tram: 61 to Csörsz utca. V. and salami head to the top level.hu. V. can be at this Saturday morning organic produce extravaganza that ★ Volt Bolt CENTRAL PEST runs from 6am to noon or 1pm Cool T-shirts and accessories from should there be enough shoppers. Map p 68. widely used. Folkart Centrum.hu. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér. Lövóház utca 12. y 0620/204-5574. . Tram: 4/6 to Széna tér. painted powdered paprika. Closed first 3 weeks of Aug. and goose liver. y 1/366-3300. utca 18. The fruit juices are sublime. too. y 1/ and tablecloths. fridge magnets. AE.repulotehen. (Branch: Mammut how fresh Hungarian fruit and veg Shopping Mall. Vámház körút 318-4697. funky credit cards. openers. the organizers of the Sziget Festival. dolls. Csörsz Budapest’s mega music festival. DC. as Cow) CENTRAL PEST The ‘Flying well as the menswear. and cheeky ‘naked’ mugs. Királyi seriously cool pink grinning BudPál utca 11. No dhas to Geisha ashtrays. No credit many of which relate to the Sziget cards.

popular Italian restaurant Dallello. Cukor utca 1.mammut. mammoth. home to the only Budapest branch of high-end children’s clothes specialist Jacadi.e. Fresh Hungarian fruit at the Bio Market. www. who I often run into at gigs. Alkotás utca 53. Mammut. replete with VIP booths.mompark. Map p 67. Váci út 1–3. plus the first IMAX cinema in Hungary. y 1/238-7777. = Perfumes ★★ Le Parfum CENTRAL PEST Custom-made fragrances from the philosophical and talented Frencheducated perfumer Zsolt Zólyomi. y 1/345-8020. www. y 0630/470-0248. No credit cards. Wave is stacked with Hungarian and international alternative.hu. Metro: M2 to Keleti Pu or Stadionok. Tram: 4/6 to Nyugati pu. and jazz CDs. Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. i. No y 1/487-5500. Metro: M3 to Arany János utca.westend. Bottega Veneta. Busy and popular with a huge number of Hungarian and international brands to choose from. Map p 68. Map p 70. DVDs.hu. Kerepesi út 9. = ★★ Westend City Center CENTRAL PEST You could be fooled into thinking you’re in a big American mall here—that is until sub-standard Hungarian service reminds you you’re in Hungary. dance. along came Arena Plaza with more space and brands than anybody else. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér. Tram: 61 to MOM Park. ★ Mammut BUDA Divided into two main parts: Mammut 1 and 2. www. Révay utca 4. and LPs that are hard to find elsewhere. .hu. The roof level of Mammut 2 is home to a Gold’s Gym. y 1/331-0781. Map p 67.arenaplaza. ★★ MOM Park BUDA Spacious and modern mall. ethno. limited edition high-end perfumes from the likes of Burberry. = = Music ★★ Wave CENTRAL PEST Run by an affable music lover. Also. y 1/8807000. and Clive Christian. Lövóház utca 2–6. Map p 68. Tram: 4/6 to Széna tér. www.78 The Best Shopping Malls ★★ Arena Plaza OUTER PEST Just when Budapest seemed to reach saturation point with mega malls. and the Bavarian Paulaner Brauhaus beer hall (see p 119).hu. never gets too overwhelming in proportions and is more easy-going than Westend (see below) but still packed with shops. indie. gourmet food shops.

y 1/317-4268. It also serves as a serious Jewish arts gallery and auction house.culinaris. Impressive wine selection. this shop stocks many other delicious Pick salamis. and recipe books feature among the eclectic Jewish gift items. Culinaris for international foodstuffs. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tér. Map p 68. y 1/373-0028. ★★ Pick Márkaáruház CENTRAL PEST Although you’ll see Pick’s definitive téliszalámi ‘winter’ salami all over town. y 1/ 267-8502. V. MC. Balassi Bálint utca 7. Map p 68. Jewish gifts and art at Judaica Galéria.79 Budapest Shopping A to Z back home. Branches: Hunyadi tér 3 & Perc utca 8. www. Although Hungary is less renowned for cheese. Map p 68. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. this is the place to come for religious objects and hand-painted religious icons from Hungary and further east. Specialty Foods ★★ Culinaris CENTRAL PEST Packed out with hungry expats relishing the range of international foodstuffs that they take for granted . MC. ensemble of Hungarian and international cheeses. look out for the excellent local goat cheese. ★★ Judaica Galéria CENTRAL PEST Teddy bears wearing kippas (skullcaps). particularly French. Kossuth Lajos tér 9. and other meat products. Map p 68. y 1/331-7783. V. Religious Ecclesia CENTRAL PEST Next to a pretty Franciscan church. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Ferenciek tere 7. some spicy others smooth. Nagy Tamás Cheese Shop CENTRAL PEST Outstanding credit cards. Dead Sea beauty treatments. MC. V. MC. Map p 68. y 1/3173061. No credit cards. Map p 68.hu. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. V. Metro: M2 to Astoria. ★ T. Gerlóczy utca 3. Wesselényi utca 13. AE. Cafeteria upstairs. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. Tram: 2 to Kossuth Lajos tér. Also good for Magyar specialties.

Tram: 47/49 to Astoria. Other branches include one opposite St. Magyar utca 18. Baross utca 46. Rákóczi út 17. Map p 70.monarchia borok. Metro: M2 to Astoria. 1/341-0646.zwack. V. Map p 70. Veritas also represents an impressive batch of quality-driven Hungarian winemakers. ★ Magyar Pálinka Háza (House of Hungarian Pálinka) CENTRAL PEST Comprehensive collection of Hungary’s fruit brandy known as Pálinka.80 The Best Shopping Toys ★★★ Fakopáncs CENTRAL PEST Creative Hungarian-made wooden toys to make kids think beyond the realm of the X-box and Barbie doll. Kinizsi utca 30–36. now an EU-protected name. V. (Branches inc. Stephen’s Basilica at Szent István tér 3. Váci utca 10. y 1/2661100.bork ereskedes. Map p 68. www. Tram: 4/6 to Széna tér. AE. AE. Présház CENTRAL PEST A wine shop on touristy Váci utca would normally make me wary. No credit cards. MC.com.hu. www. József körút 50. Tram: 4/6 to Ferenc körút. selling a wide range of Hungarian wines plus some vintages of top labels. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér. www.hu. Pálinka ranges from the seriously fiery to the soft and fruity. bortarsasag. Map p 68. y 1/456-9898. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér.hu. Batthyány utca 59. Excellent for gifts and with a flawless safety record. V. Map p 68. www.preshaz. y 1/266-0928. y 1/341-3174 or ★★ Zwack Shop OUTER PEST Zwack makes the ubiquitous bitter Hungarian liqueur Unicum that you’ll either love or hate. Soroksári út 26. MC. V. fakopancs. www. y 1/3331866. Tram: 2 to Haller utca. Also represents Hungarian and boutique international wineries. Tram: 4 or 6 to Baross utca. MC. MC.hu. www. Pálinka fruit brandy bottles. V.) Map p 70. ★★ Kétmackó Játékgaléria CENTRAL PEST Old-fashioned puppets and dolls. ★★ In Vino Veritas CENTRAL PEST More old-fashioned looking than the slick Bortársaság (see above). Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér. y 1/212-2569. I prefer the deliciously fruity Nemes Pálinka (fruit brandy) range and its boutique wine range.ketmacko. Wine & Spirits ★★ Bortársaság (Wine Society) BUDA Strong selection of Hungarian wines from most Hungarian regions with knowledgeable staff on hand. MC. long since sold out elsewhere. y 1/4762383. and game-themed paintings are on sale along with skill-enhancing activity and board games at the ‘Two Bears Toy Gallery’. V. wooden toys. Map p 67.hu. AE.hu. but this is a good one. ★ Monarchia CENTRAL PEST Monarchia sells its own range of wines made in Eger by the talented winemaker Tamás Pók that are exported to the US. MC. y 1/338-4219. too. Metro: M3 to Ferenc körút. . Map p 68. No credit cards. Metro: M2 to Astoria. www. Dohány utca 58–62.

5 The Best of the Outdoors .

jó u Post Office Metro Station Bethlen Gábor tér u. lib ru Dé czú BAJZA UTCA Felvonulási Ben tér M Hopp Ferenc Kelet-Ázsiai Múzeum sor ti fa lige ros Vá Szo nd . ánd ár u fy S Alp ter Pé du . Ajt Sa . Lasz ló Mó ru út t iú ny ve Dé e ert ób Ró c h há Mo . hle Sz ab ó se Józ felle s jcs f u. ich u. s su Ab au . bo Sza u lcs . Vidámpark 2 ány Vág u. . iu Szépmivészeti Múzeum yú t t Kó sK á ny étá 5 ys rol t ii ú kó xiik u Hu Zich i yM Olof Palm es étá n há ly út rs or iD üre ós De Th m re Ma f u. M Mu r rán Kisstadion e He á rná . fán za G Gé hy Zic Baj za u u. u. Sző iú ny t M3 izs ár u. r r u. áz . Le l he u. Reitt er S z t. oly Lövölde tér BM Központi Kórház b b e ten ot Ro r r u. ille M 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 on Da an mj er Pet N Ne t Bet u dy . Fővárosi 1 Nagycirkusz Széchenyi fürdő SZÉCHENYI M FÜRDŐ t út ör yk ly rro Ká ld Bo át orv H Állatkert 4 D M MEXIKÓI ÚT z oro sm ai Gyermekkórház Me MÁV Kórház 6 Városligeti Hősök Műjégpálya tere Magyar HŐSÖK 3 Mezőgazdasági TERE M Múzeum . a ai u Ilk y au ...82 The Best of the Outdoors City Park Fere nc u . . zse k Jó út án Istv ök u.25 km 1/4 mi út ó Dó a zsa Város li ng a a ári Városliget get i kö rut . yii u . yu szk bin Ab . Circus Vidámpark Városligeti Műjégpálya Állatkert (Zoo) Városligeti Sörsátor Vajdahunyad Castle Moat Time Wheel t ly ú öko Th Dó z sa Gyö rgy út Keleti pályaudvar 0 0 0. yi Ch áz ár An dr ás . y Gy t t örú kö Frra örg Dó z zsa Gy ö örg y yú t m rm He n ina ú út c nc ia ú út n Ró p plR Rip Petőfi Csarnok Közlekedési Múzeum . u szh Szá bágy Job Verseny u. Istvánmezei út u. á ábo n nG u. or . ru v vo Já e Ste út nia u.. Műcsarnok yu 7 Időkerék va nd út Le sy ás . tu t rhá Cse u. dr u An áb .

START: M1 to Széchenyi Fürdó. and elephants. Passing by. However.400. All the points of interest are served by the Széchenyi Fürdó metro station but everything is also accessible from the Heroes Square (Hósök tere) metro station. tigers. acrobats. Each of Budapest’s stunning Habsburg-era townhouses. Lions. y 1/343-8300. If you get stuck. Three different troupes feature classic circus performances from clowns. @ 1 hr 30 min. T The old-style Vidámpark. a zoo. and there are many. 1 ★★★ = Circus.hu. Állatkerti körút 12/a. too. Performances Wed–Sun (excluding Sep). and an amusement park that features Europe’s longest wooden rollercoaster that will remind Western travelers of the more innocent time they grew up in.200– Ft 2. there’s always a button to press that lets you out. old-fashioned world of well-kept and Classic Courtyards—Behind the City’s Grand Façades As you’re walking around the downtown do look out for open doorways of the magnificent buildings and have a peek in. . it looks a sorry excuse for an amusement park but step in and you’re transported back to a charming. maciva. More performances at weekends. tell their own story on the inside where they really come to life. trapeze artists. www.83 City Park his oasis of green is flanked by a multitude of old-fashioned attractions including a circus. and tightrope walkers. and bears. Admission Ft 1. 2 ★★★ = Vidámpark (Amusement Park). this 120-year-old Budapest institution seeks to embrace the age of animal rights with an increasing reliance on its talented human performers.

900. Ft 3. transcending metropolitan modernity and transporting you back to Budapest’s early 20thcentury heyday. Állatkerti körút 14–16. 100cm–140cm Ft 2.84 The Best of the Outdoors Hidden City Squares While peace and quiet is harder to find in Pest than it is in leafy Buda. Daily Jun & Aug 10am–8pm. literally Freedom Square. surrounded by colossal buildings that serve to block out the bustle. mid-Mar–Oct 12am–6pm. Step through the wrought-iron gate and feel at the center of a living bastion of old-world charm. There’s also concrete ping-pong tables with iron nets that may be an unglamorous hangover from Communism but they can stand all weather and make for a good game. It also has an interesting pay-according-to-height entry policy. free for under 100cm. this big open space.900 for people over 140cm. you don’t have to trek out to City Park or Margaret Island to experience what is known as ‘park life’ as a secluded spot is often never more than a few corners away. y 1/363-8310. vidampark. @ 2–3 hr. the fairytale atmosphere of the ice rink. As the chill of winter hits. May–Sep 11am– 7pm. bar the sounds of kids playing. Although Szabadság tér. Still on the Pest side. which is nice to ride compared with more modern versions. You’ll run into English speakers here and also on the playgrounds of Szabadság tér. www. The laser dodgems show that the park is not entirely stuck in the past. restored attractions. The cute park at Honvéd tér with its trimmed lawn and neat flowerbeds is tucked away close to the busy Pest thoroughfare of Szent István körút but is totally peaceful. Budapest’s ‘Happy Park’ boasts the longest wooden rollercoaster in Europe. which churns out swirlingly authentic Wurlitzer music—you have to ride the horses to keep the old girl moving. 3 ★★★ = Városligeti Mújégpálya (City Park Ice Rink). Closed early Nov–mid-Mar.hu. Károly kert also belies its central location close to hectic Astoria. may be synonymous with the violence after the riots of 2006 (see p 47. bullet 3) and repression in the form of the Soviet War Memorial. is a superbly relaxing place and you can contemplate the awesome aspect of the city’s biggerthan-thou architecture. You’ll find playgrounds for younger infants within the City Park. . Go-karting costs an extra Ft 600 a go. Among the star attractions is the centegenarian wooden merry-go-round. Take toddlers of 3 and under to the mini amusement park that’s attached. with a pavilion on one side and the Monkey about at the zoo.

Ft 700 per session weekdays. Ideal for a sausage (kolbász).zoobudapest. has dwindled. Olof Palme sétány 5.300 1 hr. Metro: M1 to Hósök tere. Ft 970 on weekends. bullet 2) on the other. pretzels (perec). if you’re anything like me. However. public interest in this. or the savory scone known as pogácsa. this clock isn’t built for short-term hype. with its Oriental and Indian aspects and fine animal carvings and sculptures. one of the world’s largest hourglasses. but the Vajdahunyad Castle sure makes an attractive backdrop for a spot of easy rowing. this place has become much more animal-friendly and is a nice place to bring the family to monkey about. in the middle of the park. It may be a folly and an eclectic mix of Hungarian architectural styles across the ages. Városligeti Sörsátor. credit where credit’s due. Állatkerti körút 6–12. It doesn’t actually tell the time but it is an impressive fusion of ancient techniques and state-of-the-art technology that’s built to last the ravages of time. No phone. No need to worry about global warming here. Ft 1. 5 y 1/364-0013. com. 7 = Idókerék (Time Wheel).85 City Park Rowing on Vajdahunyad Castle Moat.690. 9am–7pm in summer. @ 2 hr. The Art Nouveau entrance. Vajdahunyad Castle (p 13. is a suitably impressive teaser for what’s inside. keeps the locals coming to the City Park. 6 = Row in the Vajdahunyad Castle Moat. Ft 700 1 ⁄2 hr. just remember to wrap up well. 2004.hu. 9am–6pm in winter. $. Unveiled as Hungary entered a new epoch in joining the EU on May 1. y 1/363-1904. For a more Boho setting head to Kertem (see p 123). Admission Ft 1. falling over—is quite an experience with the Castle looming above. Mon–Fri 9am–1pm. I’m fascinated with the big rock that looks just like the one out of Spielberg’s Close Encounters and the domain of gorillas and orangutans. 4 = ★★ Állatkert (Zoo).mujegpalya. just when you need it. @ 2 hr. The first time I came here in the 1990s I felt indignant when I saw the cramped conditions and the sorrylooking. Városligeti Sétány. www. An oldfashioned beer tent bang in the right place. y 1/273-4900. Gliding along the ice—or. www. However. Kids will also love the petting zoo. @ 30 min–1 hr. 4pm–8pm. Behind the Múcsarnok. stir-crazy elephants. Pick up a boat opposite the Castle entrance. .

Illé s út Farkasréti temető Cog Wheel Railway Children’s Railway Chairlift Irh ás áro k 0 0 750 yards 750 m 1 2 Cog Wheel Railway Children’s Railway 3 4 János-hegy Libegő Néme tvö lgy i út Bü rök oly ge T he Fode u. u. SZÉCHENYI-HEGY VÁ. MŰVÉSZ ÚT Mikl út ós SZÉCHENYIHEGY VÁ. MEREDEK-CSÚCS 402m NORMAFA V. JÁNOS KÓRHÁZ Eötv ó CSILLEBÉRC VÁ. ykov ácsi út HŰVÖSVÖLGY VADASKERTI-HEGY 371m ALSÓ-KECSKE-HEGY 397m yi ú t öllg pv yii út ös ösvölg Hűv HŰVÖSVÖLGY dor Kon út NYÉK KECSKE-HEGY 384m SZÉPVÖLGY LÁTÓ-HEGY 376m HÁRSHEGY VÁ. s út ORBÁNHEGY u P Pa g g ilá sar . MÁRTONHEGY ér ér út D Denev r u. M. KURUCLES Szé he Törö k Bartók Béla vész ú t Emlékház Ferenc-hegyibarlang ű Hű rú s s vö lg vö yi t út t Bim bó út JÁNOS-HEGY 527m 3 JÁNOSHEGY VÁ. éti út E yii Jánosheg ú nos yi r so fa s nty Pin v Hé út ág irá . Hangya u.86 The Best of the Outdoors Buda Hills zé Sz N ag VÁ. János Korház ORGONÁS VÁROSMAJOR VÁ VIRÁGVÖLGY VÁ. Diana SVÁBHEGY u. Nor GYÖNGYVIRÁG ÚT maf aú t VÁROSKÚT Zso lna u. NAGY-HÁRS-HEGY 454m LIPÓTMEZŐ VASKAPU-HEGY 299m CSATÁRKA Országos Pszichiátriai és Neurológiai Intézet SZÉPJUHÁSZNÉ VÁ. nk Ko CSILLEBÉRC Ed vi BUDAÖRSI-HEGY 433 Ir h ás u . Bu d akesz i út SZÉPILONA t PASARÉT r bo Gá tt b be ze rzs 4 ú Zugligeti Sz Sza rva Vir VIRÁNYOS s Gábo ányos rú út t n Áro ZUGLIGET Alkony út i út Kútvölgy Kútvölgyi út 2 t KÚTVÖLGY ERDEI ISKOLA 1 ESZE TAMAS ISKOLA Szt. SZT.

although like in the past. Ferenc Gyurcsány. I love the fact that you get up to the fresh air of the hills within minutes. B 1 = Ride the Fogaskerekú (Cog Wheel Railway). you could also ascend this way to reach János hegy from the terminus at Zugligeti út 97. @ 15 min. Socialist Prime Minister. Bus: 155 to Zugligeti út. y 1/391-0352. I do find it reassuring how seriously these kids take their jobs. 2 = ★★★ Gyermekvasút (Children’s Railway). Tram: 56 to Városmajor. START: Tram 56 to Városmajor to connect with the Cog Wheel Railway to start your ascent. don’t mess with these kids. Széchenyi hegy. However. However. @ 30 min. a kind of Communist youth initiative. The service now runs under the number 60 according to the Budapest Public Transport Company. . Although it’s not specifically a ski lift. otherwise continue to János hegy. Today children still run the show.87 Buda Hills udapest is hardly a small city and has a population of around 2 million. they’re stricter than adults—who knows what they’ll do if you don’t buy a ticket. Alternatively. Hang on and be whisked down 262m/860ft from János hegy through the forest by this clunky but cool chairlift. Ft 450 one way. Runs from 5am–11:10pm. There’s nothing like running a railway for instilling discipline and that was the philosophy behind the founding of this narrow gauge railway. Be warned. crafty locals will take their skis up to the top on it when there’s snow. This ‘best of the hills’ route provides a sampler but I encourage you to jump off wherever the mood takes you. Budapest’s highest point is topped off by the Erzsébet lookout tower. Ft 500 one way. he of Fisherman’s Bastion (p 62) fame and renovator of St. It’s a great way of traversing the Buda Hills and I recommend you just jump off wherever takes your fancy. Included among the ranks of the pioneers is the current Ride the Cog Wheel Railway. Matthias (p 62). once run by pioneers. 3 = ★★ János-hegy. It’s the work of that man Schulek again. The route to the Buda Hills is gradual but the feeling of being dragged up at an angle as the city starts to give way to more and more green certainly sets the tone. I’m relieved to know that adults actually drive the trains and do the signaling. bullet 3). @ 17 min to János hegy. 4 ★★ Libegó. A steam engine runs at weekends (p 39. Take the cog to Széchenyi hegy where you can connect with the Children’s Railway (bullet 2) by walking along Golfpálya utca. and you’ll certainly see his signatory dreaminess here.

ds Víztorony 6 5 kolostor Csemete u. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Sziget Klub Centenary Monument Musical Fountain Bathing Abbey Ruins Watertower Japanese Garden Musical Well 1 MARGIT H HÍD Újp Margit híd Kat o Jászai Mari tér na J ózs ef u . erc u .25 km 1/4 mi H ÁRPÁD HÍD H HÉV Station P Boat Pier Pacsirtamezo u. at u. H SZÉPVÖLGYI ÚT Árpá d fe Bud jedelem ai al útja só r akp art Margitsziget a (D at u. Tímár u Tím ár u . Dun Karp Vág Pes ti 4 sportuszoda Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti rakp art Pozs onyi út Bess enye i u. Tata j u. Kenélőkút 8 7 . Tisza u. Karp Pann 3 2 Centenariumi emlékmű esti rakp a rt Poz son yi ú t Karp at u . Ferences templom romjai anub Dráv e) a u. Laj os Árp ád f ejed elem ú Bud tja ai a lsó rak part Post Office Árpád híd u. Danubius Health Spa Resort Margitsziget 4 s u. ónia Ipoly Gyula u. Árpád Fejedelem útja ar t a k kp Újllakii ra alsó Gog ol u. Palatinus 4 strand-fürdő Nép fürdő u Révé sz u. Lajos u . u. Ha j ós Alf re Premontrei templom Domonkos romjai . ed s Hajós Alfred s étány . Heg edűs u.88 The Best of the Outdoors Margaret Island 0 0 0. Japánkert H TÍMÁR UTCA Viador u. u. Lajo Római Katonai Amifiteátrum Á rp á d fe jede lem útja Bud ai al só r akp art étá ny Bokor u.

The spray carried by the breeze on to = Hajógyári-sziget ‘Boatyard Island’ is the next island upriver from Margaret Island and has big green open spaces that are given over to the Sziget Festival for one week each year (see p 161). locals come to escape the traffic and bustle of the city. the clubhouse now has more of a lounge room feel. p 123). but if they have a court free you’ll get a game. For golf enthusiasts. Entering from the central Margit híd. I find it much more tranquil and idyllic in the winter months. What would saintly Princess Margit (Margaret)—given to God by her father. Either way. 2 Centenary Monument.89 Margaret Island L eafy Margaret Island (Margitsziget) is a haven for morning runners and midnight lovers. Locals lazing around the Musical Fountain. Carry on straight and you’ll be greeted by the twisty Centenary Monument whose intertwining symbolism represents the fusion of Buda and Pest. Bring your own rackets. Located minutes from the downtown in the middle of the mighty Danube between Buda and Pest. It has stood on this spot since 1972 3 Musical Fountain. especially when fresh snow falls. y 0620/420-7333. Béla IV. It may say ‘Only for Members’. A bit further on you’ll come to the curious spectacle of the musical fountain. 1 ★★ Sziget Klub. START: Tram 4/6 to Margitsziget or take bus 26 which stops at several points on the island and you can hop on and off as you wish. there’s also a driving range. There’s also a plunge pool in which to soak tired bones after a hard game. sadly it’s the only remaining tennis club on the island. it’s still a lovely place to play tennis and also has a new summer terrace bar that opened in summer 2008 (see Best Nightlife. now that an array of fun summer outdoor venues have sprung up. after about 100m on the left you come to my favorite tennis club. which really requires no explanation other than it spurts out classical music intermittently. when it marked a hundred years since Budapest became one entity. It’s also home to some of the capital’s glitziest nightclubs (see Nightlife p 109). for sparing his country from the Mongols—make of all the hedonism on her hallowed island? While people flock here in summer. . It has also become an increasingly good place to party. Recently renovated from its former high-end Socialist retro look.

and frogs to the trickling sound of the waterfall. is the altogether more relaxed holiday camp-like Palatinus (see p 29). = @ 15–30 min. 6 ★★ Watertower.) structure. About another 100m further on. @ 15 min. Designer and Budapest Engineering University Professor Szilárd Zielinski managed to add a few Art Nouveau touches to the striking 57m/187ft-high = . your boiling frame is a godsend in the heat of summer for cooling off. there’s a replica functioning church. For more pampered but indoor thermal bathing head to the Danubuis Health Spa Resort Margitsziget close to Árpád híd. @ 15 min. This cute cranny provides a nice diversion for kids who can spot varied species of fish. it is still a nice place to contemplate the past. The watertower is not currently open but a drink at the theater bar directly underneath is a good way to appreciate it. (6:30am–9:30pm daily. Ft 7. Further upstream. While there’s been some obvious mortaring going on and some modern additions. The watertower dating back to 1911. @ 10 min. Pest side. Boat trips are a good way of viewing the city from another perspective and there are a number of boat operators offering tours from Vigadó tér on the Pest bank.700 (weekend). as does the whole of Margaret Island. The foundations of the 13th-century St. Walk to the Buda side from the fountain and you’ll find the Hajós Alfréd Uszoda swimming complex (see p 29). 5 ★ Abbey Ruins. 7 Japanese Garden.500 (weekdays). Margaret’s Abbey are located roughly on the middle of the island. The last time I checked this little well out. turtles. it was actually talking but hang around until music starts pumping out. in an upstream direction. which hosted a recent European Swimming Championship. The watertower stands as a beacon of Hungary’s industrial prowess at its time of construction in 1911. but the stretch on the Pest side just north of the Chain Bridge to Margaret Bridge makes for a pleasant stroll.90 The Best of the Outdoors A River Runs Through It— the River Danube The banks of the mighty but murky Danube tend to be dominated by roads. 4 = ★★★ Bathing. also facing the Buda side. The bar is the most laidback theater bar I know and one for which flip flops are highly appropriate. Admission Ft 6. 8 = Musical Well.

6 The Best Dining .

Best Chinese ★★ Momotaro Ramen $$ Széchenyi utca 16 (p 106) Best Courtyard Dining ★★ Fészek $–$$ Kertész utca 36 (p 99) Best Curry ★ Indigo $$ Jókai utca 13 (p 105). ★ Taj Mahal $$ Szondi utca 40 (p 108) Best Danube Dining ★★ Spoon $$$ Moored opposite Hotel Intercontinental (p 107) Best Fin de Siècle Hungarian Gourmet ★★★ Vadrózsa $$$$ Pentelei Molnár utca 5 (p 102) Best Fusion ★★ Baraka $$$ Andrássy Hotel MaMaison Andrássy út 111 (p 103) . ★ Menza Liszt Ferenc tér 2 (p 102) Best Bargain Gourmet ★★★ Csalagány 26 $ Csalogány utca 26 (p 99) Best Solet (Jewish Bean Stew) ★★ Fülemüle $$ Kófaragó utca 5 (p 99) Best Celebrity Chef Meal ★★★ Matteo $$$ Pasaréti út 100 (p 102) Best Sushi ★★ Fuji $$$–$$$$ Csatárka utca 54 (p 104).92 The Best Dining Dining Best Bets Best Balkan ★ Kafana Grill Restaurant $–$$ Sörház utca 4 (p 105) Best Italian ★★★ Fausto’s Étterem $$$$ Székely Mihály utca 2 (p 104). ★ Balletcipó Hajós utca 14 $ (p 103) Best Pizza ★★ Il Terzo Cerchio $$ Dohány utca 40 (p 104). ★★ Trattoria Toscana $$ Belgrád rakpart 13 (p 108) Best Burrito ★ Arriba Taqueria $ Teréz körút 25 (p 103) Best Retro ★★★ Kádár $ Klauzál tér 10 (p 100). ★★★ Páva $$$$ Four Seasons Gresham Palace Roosevelt tér 5–6 Best Bistro ★★ Café Kör $$ Sas utca 1 (p 99) Best Burger ★★★ Gresham Kávéház $$$ Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel Roosevelt tér 5-6 (p 104). ★★ Okuyama no Sushi $$$ Kolosy tér 5–6 (p 106) Best Cheap ‘n’ Cheerful Goulash ★ Pozsonyi kisvendégló $ Radnóti Miklós utca 38 (p 102) Best Wine Restaurant ★★★ Klassz $$ Andrássy út 41 (p 101) Retro styling at Menza.

.. R Ró a au ell sb u u. s u. yay u Lóny . Ke a au á ácf l u. M rédj . . Operaház Hunyadi tér Oktogon u. b Sza s olc u. Pu Puskin g Mag ú u Múze.93 Dining Best Bets Outer Pest Dining Bagolyvár 1 Baraka 2 Borbíróság 3 Chez Daniel 4 Fülemüle 5 Gundel 6 k un Mu Állatkert . jjza a llan Ba rta . József körút u. e ei n ny o ok Szii Bajn u.. dr ar grá oln Bel Mo R Rád y . Ró ó e La Lajos g gu Józs ellla . z u czy a Kazin Somog Somogyi Béla u. ö ös sen Cs ötv Eö t t rú kö . sa rsf H Há la u u. Be eu y ers kel Me S Szé u u. u..25 km Múzeum híd tér M OPERA Ernst . út . r u. M KODÁLY KÖRÖND Bajcsy Zsilinszky út Sz ív u. s sú ulc Bu z zsa Dó Szépmivészeti Múzeum Hősök tere Műcsarnok y y ö örg G Gy p Riip u. m ma e en r rty e ge BélyegMúzeum Há u u. zu é és ert . u réz Te ókaii Jó i ad Ar u. s bin em u zky . ru do Sán rfy te u. ákóc R szính Stáhly áz u. f u. Vas u a fa u D Dió u. ái a art Vác kp ak u u. ály ika Kir tér fia Jós . ARANY JÁNOS UTCA M Ó u. u. u yar u u. m ma yu r rös ry V Vö g ge u u. FERENC Erkel lek Vásárcsarnok 0 1/4 mi zte KÖRÚT Kö 3 M Iparművészeti Szabadság Csarnok 0 0. té K Kiss ab lnai Vig Vig u ets Isa Toln z zöv t u. Pé ray Ga Szt. u u r u. zsa R Rot u u u.. u. .. Szerb tér Post Office templom t Üll örú ői ú M Metro Station zk Nap u. Miksa tér Sándo Ferences tér Déri Bródy Mátyás templom Magyar Petőfi tér f u. 1 ai u va Dé 6 Városliget . lu he Le c llc B Bu u sú . Vá u. ay u a . u u.. Terror Háza M VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA 7 Lövölde tér m Da i jan ch u. ii u n na -Ró pll- Haxen Király 7 Millennium da Pippo 8 Taj Mahal 9 Nyugati pályaudvar NYUGATI M PÁLYAUDVAR Nyugati tér r u. nszky Horánszky u. Erzsébetplébániatemplom t örút et k éb rs Erz . . t há m u. Múzeum Pá u. g gy tk ályi Szentkir Na . ry rsff u au u. S éme u Ném Vig u. eh Bet Auró e u. Ak á zá au Klla s Kiis u. os u bo v var Gá y y Fu e len Nag ra ra u. sse Lov wff ag y u u. iille ec k Fecs u. Vadász u. . éu álln e es P Ver u u. Mária u.. Do Mária u. Kád á Szo nd i dm Po a u. iu á ihá yM sy á ác u. DEÁK t yu l czi ú FERENC TÉR Kirá Rákó . Isa rt rty .. yáry m N Múzeu Krúdy u. yi u Beze lén yu BLAHA Kár n M LUJZA TÉR esse oly há W Blaha Do kör Köztársaság út Nagy Lujza tér Fővárosi tér zsinagóga i út z Önkormányzat Nép u. BAJCSY ny KELETI M ZSILINSZKY ÚT há Klauzál PÁLYAUDVAR M Do tér . ző ez Szt. r u. István Bazílíka u. Bethlen Gábor tér Cs . Jókai M OKTOGON u. Bajj za u u. á Bac Bacsó zát Os Zic h a Ha s jós Na gy m m u u.. z zsa . Nemzeti Irodalmi Józse Múzeum l u. u u. Pál u lyii P Kir Kirá u. M KÁLVIN TÉR Information Kálvin Baross u. a 4 8 BAJZA UTCA A 2 rás nd sy út u u. u u.. fa Dió u u Síp . . zó S bu Do Liszt Ferenc tér Vö r rös De D en ő yJ u. y u TERE Szo nd Fe d íd dh án iná rd . Bérkoc Lajo TERE ssuth 5 M Ko Gutenburg Rákóczi u. Béla u. ly íív Sz 9 M TEREZVÁROS Hopp Ferenc Kelet-Ázsiai Múzeum osl Vár ti fa ige sor Kodály Zoltán Emlémúzeum u u. BELVÁROS M ASTORIA FERENCIEK sis u. zky nic Le va nd HŐSÖK M . eu út Múzeum sy y Ed rás ula d a P An bu . t k rú m kö . . ii Pál u Gyula s . Szövetség u. e b ten u. yi u lén sse We Almássy tér .

Gellért emlékmű GELLÉRTHEGY Citadella t rt k kpa ó ra lsó a ai a B Bud teii u. 45 Mérleg u. ro m u Szt.. 38 József Attila József nádor tér VÖRÖSMARTY TÉR M Budavári palota Vigadó tér Vörösmarty tér u. G Szt elllé t rt r k akp r art . tér art V Váci u. Is t 34 ván Pesti alsó rakpart Balassi Bálint Falk M iksa u. Arany Jáno dor Nádor u. Október 6. e Pest 9 só i alsó kp rakp Vá r At alja u tila . Kere Rác gyógyfürdő 40 Petőfi 35 tér Belvárosi plébániatemplom Március 15. a u. Szalay u. u. Il Terzo Cerchio 20 Indigo 21 Kádár Étkezde 22 Kafana Grill Restaurant 23 Károlyi Étterem-Káveház 24 Két Szerecsen Kávéház 25 Kiskakukk 26 i rakpart Szécheny Garibaldi u. u. 33 Ak Akadémia Szabadság tér s u. Hold u. 30 Kispipa 27 Klassz 28 Kőleves 29 Lou-Lou 30 M! 31 Menza 32 Momotaro Ramen 33 Mosselen 34 Oceán Bar & Grill 35 Okay Italia 36 Pampas Argentine Steak House 37 Paris-Budapest Café 38 Pata Negra 39 Peppers! Mediterranean Grill 40 Pozsonyi kisvendéglő 41 Ristorante Krizia 42 Segal 43 Spoon 44 Tom George Restaurant & Café 45 Trattoria Toscana 46 Clark Ádám tér Széchenyi lánchíd Roosevelt tér Eötvös tér 44 17 Zrínyi u. út Kri szt ina kör út Tabáni plébániatemplom szt u.94 The Best Dining Central Pest Dining rakp art MARGIT HÍD Arigato 1 Arriba Taqueria 2 Artesano Spanyol Étterem és Tapas Bár 3 Balletcipő 4 Biarritz 5 Bock Bistro 6 Café Bouchon 7 Café Kör 8 Cyrano 9 Fausto’s Étterem 10 Fausto’s Osteria 11 Fészek 12 Firkász 13 Gerlóczy Kávéház 14 Goa 15 Govinda Vegetáriánus Étterem 16 Gresham Kávéház 17 Hanna’s Kosher Kitchen 18 Iguana Bar & Grill 19 Bem rakpart H BATTHYÁNY M TÉR H 41 13 Újp esti Poz son yi Margit híd án Tátr Emő u . Néprajzi Múzeum Országház Kossuth Lajos tér Honvéd u. 19 re Steindl Im u. út t e a a ren ttil Döb At Döbrentei tér Erzsébet híd Rudas gyógyfürdő . KOSSUTH M Vértanúk LAJOS TÉR tér Honvéd Honvéd tér u. O . Magyar Tudományos Akadémia ő Fő út 16 8 Nádor u. Zoltán u. 26 út Holl Budai alsó rakpart Jászai Mari tér Sz t. u. r 6.. kör út Duna (D anube) 5 Markó u. B Bécsi u..

lai Pál Gyula as . y Bajcsy Zsilinszky út Lo va g wff u.. u. u u. KÖRÖND iu ad Ar M u. e ke Fecs yi ályi u. ív S Sz u ku Ró s zsa TEREZVÁROS . sse Báthory u. . er u ille nb u. Vác i út Balz ac u Pan nón ia . u. rö rös V Vö e ery ng en C Cs tér . BélyegAn 6 1 Múzeum 31 M OPERA . yE yu ula a 27 Pa rcs 10 u.. KODÁLY M Kodály körönd Kodály Zoltán Emlémúzeum s ár o or fas eti lig Cs n en ry ge u u.. i u. Sz Szentkir ő tőf ai r r do nd Sá iS P Puskin u u. a au ell sb IIsa t rty u.. Lehel tér Information Post Office M H Gyu la u .. ARANY M ás Ó Operaház dr 25 JÁNOS U. rút ői ú Só kö áz t 0 0.. rr u n llna rd Mo elgrá B P i Pál ir ly Kirá u éu á áln e P res Ver V Vác ii u. örú z z ts rté K Ke u u.. Csa LEHEL TÉR M nád y u. lu Józsefvárosi ry Pá m u. ASTORIA sis u.95 Dining Best Bets u. u. József körút Mária u.. u. Be 22 . Ró lla Sz á Há rsff . Po NYUGATI M PÁLYAUDVAR Nyugati Stollár Béla u. ly u. Ferences TERE Rákóczi r u.. Szo nd i u. ten s zsa Rot u u. Kiss a Kazin ni ona Cs Csoku. Erzsébet t Ru czi ú DEÁK tér mb BLAHA M FERENC TÉR Rákó ach LUJZA TÉR u. 43 Oktogon 42 Jókai M OKTOGON Hunyadi tér a ófi u. yu Kád ár u . Nemzeti 24 Múzeum Józse Múzeum . N Na su jós Ha 4 u. . . . ny Klauzál ly u M BAJCSY há ZSILINSZKY ÚT Kirá tér Do Ho 29 lló 18 u. út sy áb lib rás Dé nd BAJZA A ör UTCA Hopp Ferenc Gy . e vet g ség . Fe ő lső r s so rő erd u. z zát Ak u. s Lajos u. M KÁLVIN Horváth TÉR 23 Mihály tér Kálvin 39 Szabó Ervin Baross u. y lly B r rse éke Sz é Me iM ye ny . 7 z za 2 Terror Háza Liszt Ferenc Emlémúzeum á Kir u. . n z jjza alla B Ba e ert u. ók Jó 3 B Baj u u ös ötv Eö 21 VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA V e Te z réz kö rú t t ai u. ő őu ez m gy . grád i u.. . áz u. tér Könyvtar 37 46 0 1/4 mi Üll u. Zic hy Je nő u Do bu . u.. met Ném t rút . yu . ay ay u R Rád t rt p pa rrak . bu Do 28 32 Liszt út Ferenc tér sy u. Vise Kat ona Józ sef u. óu Le De . Va Vadász u. au rsff Há u u. t rty ma u u. Vas u só Bacsó o Toln Horánszky u. J Józs z czy S Síp f ef u. iksa u tér templom Sándo Déri M tér Bródy Petőfi Magyar Irodalmi f u. Béla u. a yar M Mag u. Bérkoc ajos Kőfarag uth L ó u. ety iu M Kelet-Ázsiai m rad K A Múzeum Szi u. Sz ív Alkotmán u.25 km mh Vá .. Kres z Gé za u . ika Jós Lövölde tér u. Os c ác a Klla fa z uz ál u u. gy Ba o jno u.. P Pe Vig u. Stáhly 14 t czi ú kó M Rá BELVÁROS u.. au s Isa e be Szövetség u. u. u. m ö um k Múze u.. f Diió t et k é séb z Szö r t u. Koss FERENCIEK M Gutenburg . Metro Station HÉV Station Boat Pier edű s rrd Fe Heg nd n i ná u. Ernst Rózsák Szt. V Vig u u. u. Nyá plébániatemplom Múzeu Krúdy u. Somog Somogyi Béla u. lén Almássy Bazílíka sse de 15 tér 12 We . u ra Auró u. Deák ny rédj ény M Ferenc tér Káro há Beze ssel 20 Do ly k We Blaha örú Lujza tér Nagy t zsinagóga Fővárosi Nép 11 Önkormányzat szính u. István yi u Múzeum tére u. tér Nyugati pályaudvar V Vö ö rös ma u. E Erz Kis a u. W e r ine . 36 Westend City Center hí d icz an dm k .

u. u. ölg vö ó Ló v vir ág út út iú n inc út elv i Fe n iinc A Alv O an ú t ttó Ist en he gy iú t ú tú t Trenc séni u.. u. Zö l d máli út Ferenc-hegy 265m út Szépv ölgyi ú t Kapy u. út iu au . b t . . Gaál József út Városmajor Lo t 15 zK l áro u. őrg Gy th Rá aj ru . To t t oc ro u. su ác hegy i út . VÉRHALOM En d Le pk u dó Ria Pa sar é út PASARET Hi dá y yi ú út Nagy Lajos tér . Búzavirá g u. . ISKOLA ORGONÁS Sza u. Ny Ezr mo su . Lö v vő h há . . it yu óc Tap ázs llő u n u. olcs Lé Var kü ro Jen rm ru ány ázs Kü or Á vá őú i u. ras Ga úl u. ede Or ló sz u eu . . Gy im es u. Ug oc sa u. k a kö t rút KRISZTINAVÁROS s u. Orbán tér Fode r u. e fe Stromf lld Auré ú ll út . va P He zy . Tu sná di u ba Csa . nk . Gárdo nyi Gé Endrő za ú di Sánd t or u. u. án RÉZMÁL zm u. Álo Álom u Martinovicshegy 257m n rán út Ó Óra I ő rő n nd S S ze gyii ú út u. TÖRÖKVÉSZ Bim bó su . Tör ökv t ti ú ész út 16 do ru Tövis Bog ár u. Sz u. Szt.96 The Best Dining Buda Dining ang u. Zsindely u. Tör ökv Csa Bimbó út Pittyp lán út ész Csatárka 7 út ZÖLDMÁL Zöldmáli u. grá he di u. . yu rrét asa Pa t iú rőd iS án r or Á Gáb u on . M H Metro Station HÉV Station Boat Pier Orb ánh Sólyom u. 0 0 0. Ru ku ék iu . Cso fas KÚTVÖLGY or pa He ki u rm an . KÓRHÁZ u ERZE TAMÁS 13 . log ilá u Ba gy Gá Virá ai jt iE nyo ya rzs g sú éb Na t et Ribáry u. K Kris t ztin ff ze ózs áll J G Ga út Cs ab au . Bimb ó út Há t po sú Na szt iú t To rda i u. enyed Nagy Budai Honvéd Kórház Krisztina körút ös uv Hu y Gy ön gy . Ha . Post Office Ná rcis zu Information Tót h L Isten ék . ve Fe ny Muraközi u. Ferench egyi út Törr út a u. agy u orn áb alt Kiss János 3 ént i út Agá rdi út Alkotás u. é lér F Fil ó kó u. o ros Ma s osm V V ár . Peth én Zso lna yi ú t Zs Nó ste n Hat árőr út Sz ISTENHEGY Diana u. zu Filll é ér u. JÁNOS ajo ros r u. Kú Ott tvö ORSZÁGÚT óú Kútvö lgy lgyi ú t i út Pa t Okató sar Trom Kórház éti bi t á út s út i út hegy Szt. egy i út Zule jka u. Alm ibo u. nc ő ri yu . ök vé sz Őzgid 12 Orló u. János Sváb Alsó Szilág Kórház yi Erzsé ERDEI bet fa Diós á ISKOLA VÁROSMAJOR VÁ sor rok Rőz Vár se osm u.5 km 1/2 mi Bö szö rm lgy tvö me Né t iú Királyhágo u. sze ell Érm Fé Alsó Törö k út vész su . Ma SZT.

Pes ti Császár gyógyfürdő Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti sportuszoda Hajós Alfred u. i rakpart Hadtörténeti Múzeum Alabárdos 1 Arany Kaviár 2 Arcade Bistro 3 Café Gusto 4 Carne di Hall 5 Csalagány 26 6 Fuji 7 Széchenyi lánchíd VÁ L VÍZIVÁROS Halászbástya Szalag u. . út a Árpád Fejedelem útjja Sar u oll u p st Apo Ipoly u. 9 Pesti alsó rakpart Balassi B álint u. Mátyás templom Corvin tér 8 Vérmező Déli pályaudvar Kri sz iiu Kosc y Széchen Jardin de Paris 8 Kacsa Vendéglő 9 Kisbuda Gyöngye 10 Maligán Borétterem 11 Matteo 12 Nusantara 13 Okuyama no Sushi 14 Remíz 15 Vadrózsa 16 P Várszínház Clark a k aule ru ör ú Ádám tér . Kálmán Im Báthory u. Fazekas u. y u. M arg r út it kö Var Király gyógyfürdő Gyorkocsi u. Lajos tér BATTHYÁNY H M TÉR KOSSUTH M LAJOS TÉR Szt. sányi Ir Fő út Bem rakpart Markó Újp esti rakp art Poz son yi ú Holl t án E mő Tátr u. nón ia u Heg . szk t óT u. LIPOTVAROS alsó ra k p art Pozs onyi út Karp at u. Leó út Bud Vérhalom tér Vérhalom u. edű s Gy ula Vise u. György tér Kri Attil szt a út Naphegy ina tér k TABÁN örút tin a a llot Pa árraljj V Tigris u . Nyugati tér th u u.97 Dining Best Bets fejed elem H ÚT Sz é pv ölg 10 útja Palatinus strand-fürdő 11 14 SZÉPVÖLGYI tas ze ri ú t Bécsi út yi ú t Lajos u. a i al Á só r rpád akp art Frra Le ell nk Pu sz Csejtei ú t Margitsziget Ferences templom romjai út ó út Szeréna út Zsigmond tér u. grád i u. Bud áy Jászai Mari tér MOSZKVA TÉR Csalogány u. a u út palota Ge . Alkotmán re u. Bem József tér Mechwartliget Bem József u. Áld Szem Centenariumi Emlékmű Szt. Victor Hu go u István park . Róm er F l Ró zsa he g Bimb ó út y u. Kavic Vé rha lom Boly ai u . o os J Ján u u. u. 5 z u. Margit körút Tölgy 4 Margit híd Kitaib el P ál u . Lukács gyógyfürdő ÚJLIPÓTVAROS Balz ac u . llé rth eg yu Dózsa . a Pan u. u u. c u. Honvéd tér Szt. MARGIT HÍD H Lá s zl ó Margit tér u. Duna (D anube) Kis Ró ku s u. Kat ona Istv án kör út Balaton u. 1 u . fa u. áros há ág szá Úri Ú Or a Budaii all u. Apostol u. Anna templom Fo a a un rtu u. Néprajzi Múzeum Országház 6 Kossuth Toldy Feren Batthyány u. Bajcsy Zsilinszky út Mammut én u. Medve u. ar kpart Ú Újlaki ra sé sétány r er st Esz u. ád Krisztina Alagút Budavári eu tér . á Fiá 2 M Várfok u. Falk M iksa u. d di go og lla út ti sz Mész At rt art só rakp t Fő út z z Lis y ny ai u u. Józ sef u. y u. A Avar . óri su . ás u . lőheg o lta Frankel s u.

★ Café Bouchon CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/FRENCH Welcoming bistro with Art Nouveau influences in the décor and new takes on Hungarian cuisine and continental favorites. ★★ Arcade Bistro BUDA HUNGARIAN/CONTINENTAL Stylishly modern sister of Pest’s Café Kör (see p 99). Map p 93.000. Kossuth Lajos tér 18 (entrance on Balassi Bálint utca). Entrees Ft 2. y 1/468-3110. AE. Metro: M1 to Hósök tere. AE. Entrees Ft 3. Tram: 59/61 to Csörsz utca. y 1/3114413. in an early 20th-century setting.470.250. Országház utca 2. AE.500–Ft 4.500. MC. Map p 94. y 1/ 356-0851. ups the gourmet stakes with delicacies like Mangalica pork with dried tomato risotto. V. MC. Tram: 2 to Szalay utca.690.98 The Best Dining Budapest Dining A to Z Hungarian ★★ Alabárdos BUDA HUNGARIAN Gourmet heaven in a Gothic setting with unique takes on Hungarian cuisine from only the best in local fresh ingredients. Metro: M1 to Oktogon.950–Ft 5. Map p 96. the ‘Owl’s Castle’ does Magyar cuisine. Tram: 47/49 to Kálvin tér. Map p 96. Borbíróság OUTER PEST HUNGARIAN With 60 wines available by the glass. . tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. y 1/225-1696.300–Ft 6.450. V. DC. Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal. MC. ★ Bock Bistro CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/MEDITERRANEAN Luxury Latin look with tasty tapas and succulent meat. Állatkerti út 2. AE. Lunch & dinner daily. MC.250–Ft 4. No credit cards. Bagolyvár OUTER PEST HUNGARIAN Run by some 20 women. Bus: 16/16A1/116 to Szentháromság tér. y 1/353-4094. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér. but excels in merging the two. doubling as a shop for Villány producer József Bock’s wines.100–Ft 4. MC. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. V. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. V. Map p 93. Ft 1.490–Ft 4. the ‘Court of Wines’ is ideal for sampling local wines alongside quality fusion-free Hungarian dishes. Lunch & dinner daily. Kiss János Altábornagy utca 38. Nice summer terrace. MC. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Classic Hungarian served up at Biarritz. y 1/219-0902. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. V. Csarnok tér 5. This sister of gourmet Gundel (p 100) is housed in a mock Transylvanian castle. this stylish eatery does classic Hungarian and continental dishes well.100. Map p 94. Entrees Ft 2. M3 to Nyugati pu. Erzsébet körút 43–49. Entrees Ft 2. Entrees Ft 3. Zichy Jenó utca 33. as a Hungarian mom makes it. Map p 94. Entrees Ft 2. Lunch & dinner Sat. Biarritz CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/INTERNATIONAL A few steps away from Parliament.100–Ft 5. Dinner Mon–Fri. y 1/321-0340. V.

★★ Café Kör CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/CONTINENTAL Buzzing bistro and although it’s a bit cramped. Old newspaper articles are pasted to the walls and a piano player enhances the oldworld atmosphere in the evening. . No credit cards.300. Entrees Ft 1. Entrees Ft 1. Map p 94. y 1/450-1119. Entrees Ft 1.000.99 Budapest Dining A to Z Csalogány utca 26. Lunch & dinner daily. y 1/266-7947. Map p 93. Café Kör. Excellent sztrapacska (flour and potato dumplings with bacon and ewe cheese). although it’s more expensive in the evening.900. Sas utca 17. No credit cards. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. y 1/311-0053.870–Ft 4. V. ★ Firkász CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN Fine cuts are prepared from refined recipes at Firkász. Dishes are prepared using only fresh seasonal ingredients.190. y 1/322-6043. closed 20 Jul–5 Aug. MC.400–Ft 4. Tram: 4/6 to Blaha Lujza tér. dinner only Sat. Kófaragó utca 5. Kertész utca 36. plenty of bums on seats ensures ever-consistent Hungarian and continental fare. Tátra utca 18. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. = Try Villány producer József Bock’s wine at the Bock Bistro. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. ★★ Fészek CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN This artists’ club. is steeped in atmosphere. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. Entrees Ft 1. MC. ★★ Fülemüle OUTER PEST HUNGARIAN/JEWISH ‘The Nightingale’ serves a non-kosher blend of Hungarian and Jewish cuisine that predates modern fusion trends in a warm family setting. Metro: M3 to Arany János utca. V. Lunch & dinner Tues–Fri. y 1/201-7892. ★★★ Csalagány 26 BUDA HUNGARIAN/CONTINENTAL Remarkable value lunch menu makes this plain-looking bistro a good bet. Lunch & dinner daily.700. V. Map p 94. with its cloistered courtyard.490–Ft 4.900–Ft 4. Map p 96. MC.500–Ft 2. Lunch & dinner daily. Entrees Ft 1. Metro: M2 to Batthyány tér. Map p 94.

tablecloths. Dob utca 35. V. wild boar. Map p 93.100 The Best Dining ★★★ Gerlóczy Kávéház CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN CONTINENTAL Lovely Parisian-style café serving homemade pastry for breakfast and creative lunch and dinner offerings with some nice twists. no-frills 1970s-style dining room.600. AE. MC. y 1/3516793. Metro: M1/ M2/M3 to Deák tér. Állatkerti út 2. old-fashioned hospitality and. Lunch & dinner daily. Entrees Ft 3. MC. and splendor entice you before you even get to the food. V. y 1/342-1072. V. Klauzál tér 10. y 1/235-0953. V. goose leg. Entrees Ft 3. ★★★ Kádár Étkezde CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/JEWISH NonKosher. Lunch & dinner daily. lunch & dinner daily. Entrees Ft 2.500–Ft 3.890–Ft 3. ★★ Haxen Király OUTER PEST HUNGARIAN/BAVARIAN Pinepaneling and wooden furnishings galore welcome carnivores with generous portions of quality goose liver. artworks. Gerlóczy utca 1. DC. AE. once upon a time. cabbage also feature. Breakfast. Lunch & dinner daily. MC. AE. y 1/468-4040. V. Entrees Ft 1.500–Ft 1. Hanna’s Kosher Kitchen CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN KOSHER Hungarian classics. Map p 96. Jewish-like crispy goose leg with red cabbage served in a real retro setting where guests often share tables. The solet bean stew and matzo ball soup are on the menu Saturdays only. AE. You get all this and more at ‘Duck’. AE. and pork knuckle.800.620. If you don’t feel like dressing up. Gundel has been moving into the present serving Hungarian cuisine in a lighter but still expressive way via better use of seasonal ingredients.500. beef goulash. Gundel’s 1894 Wine Cellar is more subterranean. Metro: M2 to Battyhány tér. MC. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. Map p 94.600–Ft 5. and stuffed Old world charm at Firkász. Map p 93.900–Ft 10. Metro: M1 to Hósök tere. Fó utca 75. MC. ★ Kacsa Vendégló BUDA HUNGARIAN Hungary is known for its delectable duck. like the simple but crispy and succulent Kosher chicken fried in breadcrumbs. y 1/201-9992. Roast duck. Map p 94. Entrees Ft 1. ★★ Gundel OUTER PEST HUNGARIAN A feast of the finest china. are served in this atmospheric. for quality service. .900. Király utca 100.

AE. Map p 94. Lunch Tues–Sat. Delicacies . V. MC. Metro: M1 to Opera.000–Ft 3. Seasonal Hungarian dishes at Gundel.200. Tram: 17 to Nagyszombat utca. y 1/328-0240.560. ★★ Kiskakukk CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/CONTINENTAL Arches and heavy wood depict the original ‘Little Cuckoo’ restaurant.800–Ft 4. No credit cards. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Entrees Ft 1. MC. AE. ★ Kispipa CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN Traditional Hungarian and old-world continental dishes with lots of game on the menu. Andrássy út 41. AE.101 Budapest Dining A to Z include goose liver cream soup.250–Ft 3. ★★★ Klassz CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/CONTINENTAL Foie gras risottos. Expect a refined pre-war vibe and enjoy the piano player after 7pm. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. 34. Entrees Ft 1. AE. Károlyi Mihály utca 16. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. Entrees Ft 1. which dates back to 1913.890. No phone. AE. Akácfa utca 38. y 1/450-0829. ★ Károlyi Étterem-Kávéház CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/ MEDITERRANEAN Good value restaurant-cum-coffee house in the grand Károlyi Palace featuring a restored Biedermeier interior and a sublime courtyard. No bookings so turn up early. Tram: 4/6 to Wesselényi utca. V. DC. and Mangalica pig steak feature at this creative and hip minimalist-designed wine restaurant. y 1/321-3622. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Lunch & dinner daily. ★★★ Kisbuda Gyöngye BUDA HUNGARIAN High-end Hungarian with continental and Mediterranean twists like goose liver risotto served in a charming early 20thcentury setting that’s well worth the trek out to Óbuda. Entrees Ft 750– Ft 1. lamb knuckle. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Kenyeres u. Metro: M3 to Ferenciektere or Kálvin tér.490–Ft 2. Lunch & dinner daily. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 94.800. Entrees Ft 980–Ft 5. Map p 94. MC. MC. ★★ Kóleves CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN Hearty Hungarian meat dishes plus Jewish. Map p 94. MC. y 1/342-2587 or 1/342-3969. and veggie options are available here at Vegetarian options available at the hip Kóleves. V. Map p 96.000. Entrees Ft 2. y 1/368-9227. Map p 94. V.250. lunch only Sun. Pozsonyi út 12. V. international.

★ Pozsonyi kisvendégló CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN People queue up patiently for reassuringly old-fashioned. in a Baroque villa circled by a plush garden. Kazinczy utca 35/Dob utca 26 corner. Map p 96.980. Lunch & dinner daily. y 1/240-9010. Map p 94. International Cuisines ★ Arany Kaviár BUDA RUSSIAN The best in Beluga. Real gems among the extensive wine list. y 1/353-3549.900. Tram: 56 to Pasaréti tér (last stop). ★★★ Matteo BUDA HUNGARIAN Subtle but expressive flavors in a Bauhaus setting from TV chef Péter Buday who mixes with diners as he works out which Magyar Med concoction they might like. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér. No credit cards. y 1/413-1482. DC. Lunch & dinner daily. AE. and veg combos. Grab a beer as you wait or nip in early. and Iranian caviar. Lunch & dinner .500–Ft 9. AE. y 1/322-1011. plus posh Stroganoff in a retro Romanov setting. Metro: M1 to Oktogon.400–Ft 5.680. blinis and pickled fish. V. Tram: 4/6 to Moszkva tér. MC.490–Ft 3. rice.850–Ft 5. and tasting measures also served.500. V.490.000. ★ Menza CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN Popular spot for unpretentious = y 1/201-6737 or 1/225-7370. y 1/392-7531. V. Goose liver. y 1/329-2911. Lunch & dinner daily. The fun retro kitsch décor is based on the ubiquitous Socialist-era canteen.600–Ft 5. MC. Entrees Ft 3. V. V. AE. Entrees Ft 800–Ft Magyar recipes and a top wine list at Maligán Borétterem. V. the cool and slightly alternative ‘Stone soup’. regularly changing and healthy-looking meat. 1. gorgeous-looking cuts of meat. Liszt Ferenc tér 2. ★ Arigato CENTRAL PEST JAPANESE This threadbare Japanese-run joint is popular for the highly authentic. Metro: M1/M2/ M3 to Deák tér. ★★★ Vadrózsa BUDA HUNGARIAN Fine dining turn-of-the-century style. AE. AE. Entrees Ft 1. and fish will be paraded enticingly before you. Radnóti Miklós utca 38 (corner of Pozsonyi út). Entrees Ft 4. Lunch & dinner daily. DC. Lunch & dinner daily. cheap. Ó utca 3. V. MC. MC. MC. Ostrom utca 19. Sevruga. Pentelei Molnár utca 15. ★ Maligán Borétterem BUDA HUNGARIAN This classy cellar eatery is one of a number of ‘wine restaurants’ but this one also comes up with the culinary goods via creative and subtle new-style Magyar recipes. DC. Ft 1. game.102 The Best Dining Hungarian fare on fashionable Liszt Ferenc tér. AE. Lajos utca 38. Bus: 11/91 to Vend utca. Lunch & dinner Tues–Sat Bus: 86/160/260 to Kolosy tér. Map p 96. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. Map p 96. and cheerful Hungarian classics. y 1/326-5817. Pasaréti út 100.280–Ft 3. noodle. Map p 94. Entrees Ft 1. MC. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Entrees Ft 2. Map p 94.900– Ft 3. Entrees Ft 1. DC.900. Map p 96. plus sushi.900. MC.

200. V. PEST SPANISH Refined Spanish regional dishes and fine tapas in a fashionable setting straight from ‘new Spain’. Entrees Ft 1. Map p 93. V. AE. bijou setting. especially the Philly Cheese Steak sandwich. Map p 93. Baraka fits well into the Bauhaus Andrássy Hotel (see p 140) and sets the fusion standards with ambitious-sounding but delicious concoctions. MC. MC. Ó utca 24–26. Cheap lunch menu on weekdays. Entrees Ft 1. y 1/269-3114. Lovely courtyard in summer. y 1/3740057.000–Ft 2. Metro: M2 to Battyhány tér. Café Gusto BUDA ITALIAN Exquisite Italianate salads and starters. quesadillas.000. Map p 94. Hajós utca 14 (corner of Ó utca).000. Frankel Leó u. Szív utca 32. Lunch & dinner daily. from fresh juicy shrimps. No credit cards. Entrees Ft 2. V. Metro: M3 to Arany János utca. Map p 94. Lunch & dinner daily.950. sleek and minimalist. MC.600. DC. V. and sumptuous Tiramisu served in an intimate. MC. Tram: 4/6 to Margit híd Budai hídfó. Map p 94. Metro: M1 to Kodály körönd. ★ Arriba Taqueria CENTRAL PEST MEXICAN Freshly steamed tacos. AE. Map p 96. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Map p 96. Entrees Ft 3. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. antique-laden. and melt-in-the-mouth steak tartare feature at this attractive Buda waterfront eatery. cold pastas. Teréz körút 25. 12.103 Budapest Dining A to Z Mon–Sat. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. . ★ Balletcipó CENTRAL PEST INTERNATIONAL This gastro pub’s eclectic menu somehow works. AE. Colorful murals. Lunch & dinner daily. Bem rakpart 20. y 1/483-1355. but when he’s on song this is nouveau French cuisine parexcellence.900. lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Bajza utca. y 1/688-1696. Andrássy út 111.200–Ft 1. Spills out onto a shabby chic pedestrian street in summer. Entrees Ft 2. ★★★ Baraka OUTER PEST FUSION Dark.580–Ft 2. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. and fresh condiments galore. Entrees Ft 1. y 1/201-8137. Chez Daniel OUTER PEST FRENCH Walk out if the owner-chef is asleep on the bar. carnitas. chorizo.000. AE.900–Ft 6. Entrees Ft 1. Metro: M2 to Batthyány tér. MC. and burritos with juicy steak. y 1/316-3970. V.800–Ft 3. Breakfast. y 1/302-4039. Map p 94.000–Ft 5. DC. ★ Cyrano CENTRAL PEST INTERNATIONAL Pricey but consistently creative restaurant offering new fresh-ingredient fuelled takes on old Mexican fare at Arriba Taqueria. Lunch & dinner daily. DC. MaMaison Andrássy Hotel. ★★ Artesano Spanyol Étterem és Tapas Bár CENTRAL Carne di Hall BUDA BELGIAN/ INTERNATIONAL Croquette de crevettes. Metro: M1 to Opera or M3 to Arany János utca.000– Ft 5.

tempura. Entrees Ft 1. y 1/325-7111.800. Tram: 2 to Roosevelt tér. Map p 94. AE. Vigyázó Ferenc utca 4. Andrássy út 8. ★★★ Gresham Kávéház CENTRAL PEST CONTINENTAL/ GOURMET ITALIAN At Gresham you’ll find fine continental and now also Hungarian cuisine with sublime international touches and a view to the Chain Bridge. Metro: M3 to Arany János utca. Classy minimalist décor. No credit cards.200–Ft 6. Map p 96. AE. Like its sibling Fausto’s Etterem. AE. Csatárka utca 54 (corner of Zöldlomb utca & Zödkert utca). y 1/877-6210.850– Ft 4. y 1/2263096. lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. MC. and grilled fish. DC. Entrees Ft 1. Kristóf tér 7–8. plus pasta dishes. V. Entrees Ft 3. dinner only Sat. Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel. A suave coffee house-cum-bistro inside an Art Nouveau landmark. Metro: M1 to Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat.500. Entrees Ft 2.500–Ft 2. AE. Breakfast. and ciabatta sandwiches.600. MC. Entrees Ft 1. ★★★ Fausto’s Étterem CENTRAL PEST ITALIAN Exquisite Italian traditional cuisine enhanced by subtle wider-world touches and flawless ingredients. Bus: 29 to Zöldkert út. it also received a recommended tag from Michelin in 2007. MC. y 1/269-1625. excellent salads. MC. DC. Map p 94.550–Ft 1. AE.104 The Best Dining ★★ Fuji BUDA JAPANESE Sushi is rolled before watchful customers in a highly authentic setting. MC. Lunch & dinner daily. y 1/302-2570. Map p 94.690–4790. V. Entrees Ft 3. Dohány utca 5.500–Ft 9. MC. Lunch & dinner Mon–Fri.850 (menus).000. Map p 94. y 1/268-5100. = Goa CENTRAL PEST ASIAN INTERNATIONAL The chichi generic Asian décor works as a backdrop to the refined pan-Asian specialties. including sushi. V. Wash it all down with the spicy homemade soft drinks.800. Metro: M1 to Opera. Entrees Ft 3. Roosvevelt tér 5–6. V. Map p 94. y 1/269-6806. ★★★ Fausto’s Osteria CENTRAL PEST ITALIAN Fausto’s traditional take on Italian cuisine is informal but gets the ingredients just right. Lunch & dinner daily. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. favorites. Try Fuji for great sushi lunch boxes. ★★ Il Terzo Cerchio CENTRAL PEST ITALIAN A strong Italian .600–Ft 5. Székely Mihály utca 2. Lunch & dinner daily. V. AE. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér. Map p 94. V. Govinda Vegetáriánus Étterem CENTRAL PEST INDIAN Great value vegetarian Indian food from the Krishnas in this funky cellar. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Great lunch boxes include sashimi.

Map p 94.105 Budapest Dining A to Z contingent frequents this upmarket trattoria whose house pizza is a tasty assortment of tomato. Fó utca 20. Map p 94. Map p 96. Lunch & dinner daily. AE. Vigyázó Ferenc utca 4. ★ M! CENTRAL PEST FRENCH/ HUNGARIAN No-nonsense bijou bistro that lets the creative and daily changing menu do the talking.160–Ft 3. Jókai utca 13. DC. MC. and hanger (onglet) steak can be savored in this beautiful Baroque house. No credit cards. ★ Kafana Grill Restaurant CENTRAL PEST SERBIAN/ INTERNATIONAL The cool rustic décor with funky urban paintings is the perfect setting to enjoy succulent Serbian ground meat specialties 5evapci5i and pljeskavica. V. ★ Indigo CENTRAL PEST INDIAN A fine Indian all-rounder with an impressive range of classic Indian dishes. y 1/312-4505. DC. DC. ★★ Két Szerecsen Kávéház CENTRAL PEST MEDITERRANEAN Med-influenced cuisine and décor.000. Enjoy the potent margaritas and a guaranteed lively Cantina atmosphere. Iguana Bar & Grill CENTRAL PEST TEX-MEX The American expat crowd pile in for Tex-Mex that approaches the quality from back home. Entrees Ft 1. In the summer months it’s lovely to dine in the garden. Metro: M2 to Kossuth tér. Entrees Ft 2. ★★ Jardin de Paris BUDA FRENCH Authentic foie gras. Lunch & dinner daily. MC. Lunch & dinner Mon–Fri. y 1/266-2274. AE. with subtle touches coming from further afield.550–Ft 5. ★★★ Lou-Lou CENTRAL PEST INTERNATIONAL Lovely and consistent creative fusion of Hungarian and French cuisine. Map p 94.990. Zoltán utca 16. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. Map p 94. and ruccola (arugula/rocket). V. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. y 1/301-0215. y 1/3431984. MC. Dinner daily.200. V.990. but particularly excelling in lamb curries. Metro: M1 to Opera. y 1/428-2187. Sleek décor. with subtle Magyar and international touches. Map p 94. The ‘Two Saracens’ is also good for tapas or just a drink. MC.400– Ft 3. AE. Entrees Ft 1. Parma ham. Nice terrace. y 1/201-0047.900. Sörház utca 4. V. dinner only Sat. Tram: 2 to Fóvám tér. MC. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Dohány utca 40. Map p 94. Lunch & dinner daily. pub.890–Ft 3. Entrees Ft 1. Nagymezó utca 14. AE. Ask for the excellent complimentary shredded duck pâté rillettes should it fail to arrive. Metro: M2 to Kossuth Lajos tér. Entrees Ft 1. Also a . buffalo mozzarella. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Lunch & dinner daily. Entrees Ft 4. Entrees Ft 2. Well worth visiting again now that Francophile founder Miklós Sulyok is Lou Lou offers a fusion of Hungarian and French cuisine. y 1/354-0788. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M2 to Batthyány tér. V.400–Ft 10.500–Ft 5.900. lamb.500.000–Ft 3. The comfy chic décor makes this a place to linger.

Lunch & dinner daily. Nautical touches and the mighty Danube outside are conducive for an ocean feast. y 1/452-0535. ★★ Okuyama no Sushi BUDA JAPANESE Stellar sushi is rolled from ocean delights by the intricate Japanese hand of Tokyo-trained chef Sachi Okuyama in this no-nonsense cellar joint. Pannónia utca 14 (corner of Katona József utca).800–Ft 4. Entrees under Ft 800. Entrees Ft 1. Map p 93. refreshing take on Hungarian staples. Lunch & dinner daily. Szent István körút 20. Andrássy út 76 (corner of Rózsa utca). ★★ Momotaro Ramen CENTRAL PEST ASIAN The excellent ramen noodle soup washed down by the free tea may suffice. y 1/3740880. y 1/266-1826. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér. Lunch & dinner Tues–Sun. Városmajor utca 88. Bus: 6/60/86 to Kolosy tér. Okay Italia CENTRAL PEST ITALIAN This Pest trattoria packs them in with well-priced classics and mini-skirted waitresses. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. Cooked options. Entrees Ft 4. Entrees Ft 1. Lunch & dinner daily. Lunch & dinner daily. Kertész utca 48. Stylish blood red décor and juicy steaks from quality imported Argentine Angus cuts. MC. AE.000–Ft 6. Tram: 47/49 to Kálvin tér. y 1/3428991.450–Ft 3. Entrees Ft 1.600. Entrees Ft 2. plus a lighter. V. ★★ Oceán Bar & Grill CENTRAL PEST SEAFOOD Creative cooking is ★★ Paris-Budapest Café CENTRAL PEST FRENCH/HUNGARIAN Enjoyable nouvelle French cuisine.650. The adjoining Deli does take-out fish ‘n’ chips. Lunch & dinner daily. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér.000. MC. Roosevelt tér 2. y 1/250-8256. DC.400–Ft 2. V.050.900. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. on the menu here. Map p 94.106 The Best Dining back.600–Ft 14. MC. Petófi tér 3. Metro: M1 to Vörösmárty utca. y 1/411-1750. It’s sleek with an open kitchen and views to the Chain Bridge. Lunch & dinner daily. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér. ★ Pampas Argentine Steak House CENTRAL PEST STEAK Mosselen CENTRAL PEST BELGIAN/ CONTINENTAL The imagination behind the names of dishes like ‘The Favorite of the Leuven Professors’ (duck steak) also goes into the creative Belgian-influenced fare.390–Ft 3. y 1/349-229. Kolosy tér 5–6. Tram: 2 to Kossuth tér. Entrees Ft 1. y 1/235-5600. Tram: 2 to Vigadó tér. V. Vámház körút 6. MC. y 1/2011478. V. its identically named twin is nearby at Nyugati tér 6. Tram: 56 to Szent János Kórház. MC.750. No credit cards. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. AE. the food is reassuringly rustic and good quality. Map p 94.300–Ft 4. MC. Map p 94. AE. V. Metro: M3 to Nyugatipu. No credit cards. DC. Entrees Ft 2. too. = . Millennium da Pippo OUTER PEST ITALIAN Resembling a station of the Millennium Underground that zips under the same street. but I prefer to ask what’s fresh in and have it grilled. V.200–Ft 5. Dinner daily. Metro: M2 to Kossuth tér. Lunch & dinner daily. Map p 96. No credit cards. Entrees Ft 1.300–Ft 9. Map p 94. Map p 94. Széchenyi utca 16.790. y 1/269-3802. MC.890. Eight Belgian beers on draft. Nusantara BUDA INDONESIAN Fine attention to detail both in terms of the high-quality Indonesian from native chefs featuring regional specialties starting with Lumpia (Javan spring rolls) and the sleek softly lit décor. Map p 94. T-bone from the UK. Entrees Ft 2.800. but tasty Szechuan mains delight. plus Japanese Kobe. Sofitel Budapest. If it’s full. V.

DC. Mozsár utca 12. AE. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Óutca 43-49. and which not. Map p 96. DC. Lunch & dinner daily. The front room features a raised alcove that resembles the front of a tram. Tram: 17.900. tasty spare ribs are grilled up in the lovely garden. ★★ = Peppers! Mediterranean Grill CENTRAL PEST MEDITERRANEAN Delicious Mediterranean-style dishes from local ingredients plus imported salumi to be enjoyed in a stylish setting. Pata Negra CENTRAL PEST SPANISH Traditional. No credit cards. Map p 94. Apáczai Csere János utca 4. AE. Entrees Ft 850–Ft 2. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat.107 Budapest Dining A to Z Lunch & dinner daily. Bus: 22 to Szépilona. AC. Budapest Marriott Hotel. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Metro: M3 to Kálvin.500. Map p 94. MC. In summer. Map p 94. y 1/331-8711. AE. ★★ Spoon DANUBE PEST SIDE INTERNATIONAL Spoon is the pick of the flotilla of boat restaurants. Budakeszi út 5.500. tasty tapas with many of the ingredients like jamon and manchego sheep’s cheese imported from Spain. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér. ★ Segal CENTRAL PEST FUSION Fab fusion from the chef of the original Baraka (p 103). Fab fusion at Segal.200. Lunch & dinner daily. Entrees Ft 1. y 1/215-5616. who is now in his own place showing daring simplicity and a philosophy of which ingredients to combine. V. MC. y 1/275-1396. V. Entrees Ft 1. V. MC. .500–Ft 3. ★★ Remíz BUDA HUNGARIAN/ CONTINENTAL Remíz has a classy casual atmosphere. MC.680–Ft 8. Kálvin tér 8. Map p 94. Tram: 2 to Roosevelt tér.400–Ft 5.000. Map p 94. y 1/328-0774. ★★ Ristorante Krizia CENTRAL PEST ITALIAN A charming and hardly discovered slice of Italy where a savvy touch is applied to traditional Italian cuisine. Dinner only Mon–Sat. y 1/737-7377. Entrees Ft 2. V. making poor man’s food a rich experience. Almost authentic tiled interior plus seats outside next to a church. Entrees Ft 3. Lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. Metro: M1 to Kossuth tér.200–Ft 5.

MC. y 1/327-0045. ★★ Trattoria Toscana CENTRAL PEST ITALIAN Refined Tuscan Trattoria Toscana. Entrees Ft 2. DC. V. Cricket games are screened. Október 6. Tom George Restaurant & Café CENTRAL PEST HUNGARIAN/ INTERNATIONAL A trendy but reliably creative gourmet menu consisting of Hungarian. all to a high level. Map p 94. Ocean fresh fish and seafood. y 1/301-0447. MC. seafood galore. Szondi utca 40. In summer enjoy the tranquil river view from the terrace.000.250. Balti. AE. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér. Lunch & dinner Tues–Sun. V. Opposite Hotel Intercontinental. ★ Taj Mahal OUTER PEST INDIAN Highly consistent traditional and authentic curry house specializing in Karahi. Entrees Ft 1. y 1/266-3525. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. Metro: M1 to Nyugati pu. cuisine to be relished in this rustic restaurant with authentic wooden beams and red bricks. Belgrád rakpart 13.900.108 The Best Dining although the classy cuisine itself warrants a visit regardless of the inspiring Buda views and cool decor. MC. and Tandoori dishes. Tram: 2 to Március 15. and sushi. Lunch & dinner. utca 8. y 1/411-0933. .000–Ft 3.800–Ft 7. fresh pasta. Asian (including Thai curries). Tram: 4/6 to Nyugati pu. tér.390– Ft 5. and tasty T-bone are among my favorites. AE. Map p 94. Lunch & dinner daily. Lunch & dinner daily. Fabulous carpaccio (marinated raw beef). MC. Map p 94. Handi. AE. V. DC. brick oven-baked pizzas. continental. and quality meat feature strongly. Entrees Ft 2. Map p 93. V. Spoon. AE.

7 The Best Nightlife .

Frankel Leó utca 2–4 (p 116) Best Rooftop Terrace ★★★ Corvintetó. Margaret Island (p 123) Best Glitzy Dance Club ★★★ Dokk. Nagymezó utca 25 (p 124) Best Comic Strip Décor ★★ Szóda.110 The Best Nightlife Nightlife Best Bets Best Al Fresco Bar ★★★ Holdudvar. Kazinczy utca 55 (p 120) Best Gay Club ★★★ CoXx Men’s. Hajógyárisziget 122 (p 124) Best Boho Bar ★★ Kiadó Kocsma. Corvin tér 1 (p 121) Best Garage Bar ★★ Kuplung. Hajógyárisziget (p 121) Best Place to Watch English Premier League Soccer ★★ Caledonian Scottish Pub. Dohány utca 38 (p 124) Alfresco drinking at Holdudvar. Wesselényi utca 18 (p 120) Best Lesbian Hospitality ★★ Café Eklektika. Mozsár utca 9 (p 116) Best Retro Bar ★★ Bambi Presszó. Blaha Lujza tér 1–2 (p 122) Best Something for Everyone Nightspot ★★ Club Inside/Buddha Beach/Retro Beach. Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel. Dob utca 18 (p 123) Best Martini ★★★ Gresham Bar. Roosevelt tér 5–6 (p 117) Best Dive Bar Mátravidéki Borozó. Kertész utca 36 (p 124) and ★★★ Piaf. Közraktár utca 9–11 (p 124) Best Thirty-something Boho Hangout ★★★ Ellátó. Klauzál tér 2 (p 117) . Jókai tér 3 (p 118) and ★★★ Sark. Best Place to Show off under the Stars ★★★ Bed Beach. Klauzál tér 14 (p 120) Best Intimate Night Club ★★★ Fészek Club. Nagymezó utca 30 (p 124) Best Courtyard Bar ★★★ Mumus. Király utca 46 (p 118) Best Place to Drink with the Locals ★ Wichmann. Corvin Áruház.

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Is ona Józ sef u. nszky u.112 The Best Nightlife Pest Nightlife Újp esti rakp art Poz son yi ú Holl t án E Tátr mő u. oln Mo u. Kres z Gé za u . Arany Jáno Operaház 9 1 Szt. Kálmán Im Lajos tér Báthory u. u u. tér 38 TEREZVÁROS Ar ad iu . . 21 VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA Te Honvéd u. Horánszky u. Síp ó tii als Pest a art r rakp P Pe tk Szentkir or nd án iS t u tőf u. ok jno u. Erzsébet FERENC TÉR Királ Ru 31 Ádám tér mb u. 29 eu Ed lay Do bu . t e Ke é rté sz u. 36 Fővám lek Vásárcsarnok H HÉV Station Citadella zte tér Kö Jubileumi Iparművészeti Szabadság Csarnok Boat Pier park Múzeum híd tér Szt. a yay Lóny Gellért gyógyfürdő . KOSSUTH M LAJOS TÉR LIPOTVAROS Sz d on iu . ZSILINSZKY ÚT H Széchenyi u. 45 Szt. llla b be Isa Bajcsy Zsilinszky út Szalay u. Szabadság tér őu . Pa István tér Klauzál tér 19 47 BAJCSY M tér Mérleg u. Balaton Po icz an dm ky u. István Bazílíka M OPERA 41 . a Ba u u. Belvárosi plébániatemplom Sándo út templom plébániatemplom Bródy ajtó S 20 Magyar ad b Sza Petőfi Nemzeti Rác Múzeum Erzsébet l u. adé Akadémia u rt n y k pa Széchenyii ra r örú tk et é éb rs Erz ARANY M JÁNOS UTCA s u. Mag 0. Budavári yu tér Fővárosi zsinagóga hán óczi út palota Do Rák BELVÁROS Önkormányzat 26 u. ái Vác u.. József Attila óu DEÁK lánchíd Clark yu 42 . zál au Klla u u. a u. izs Gellért tér Kin 11 0 1/4 mi 34 Szt. gyógyfürdő Nyá 17 Döbrentei híd Múzeu tér 7 M KÁLVIN Rudas TÉR Kálvin Baross u. Westend City Center tvá n kö rút u. Hold u. Zoltán u. ra art só rakp B Budai al Fő út 0 Ok Október 6. Pa n nón ia u Heg .. gyógyfürdő Information tér 30 t rú Üll Post Office kö ői ú áz t mh M Metro Station Vá u. do Nádor u. oll 16 . Lehel tér er d Fe Margit híd Jászai Mari tér Kat d hí d nd i ná Duna (D anube) Pesti alsó rakpart Balassi B álint u...25 km at par r ra k allsó dai t Bud aú t ti l At u. i u. z zsa Ró Nyugati NYUGATI M pályaudvar PÁLYAUDVAR Markó Honvéd u. i u. va g gy N Na m ez Vadász u. Vác i út LEHEL TÉR M Margitsziget H MARGIT HÍD ÚJLIPÓTVAROS Balz ac u .. sta M ASTORIA i po s u. Szt R Rád rt pa ra rak ét llér Ge FERENCVÁROS Bakáts tér y ay u . . Va Vas u V V á ci P Puskin ályi u. u. tér M ach 32 44 lényi e u. 35 4 37 23 39 6 M Terror Háza Hunyadi Oktogon tér 28 M OKTOGON . edű s Gy ula Vise grád u. k Jó Lo ő u u. u. Cs Vö ö ös ötv út Eö rú kö é réz ai u. a ar z. Le he lu . u zív Sz u. éu á áln e P res Ver u. Kossuth Országház re u. Zic h yJ en Garibaldi u. . u. 15 Néprajzi Múzeum Alkotmány u. Falk M iksa u. Irodalmi ry Pá 24 Múzeum m u. u. u u. r rty yu ry m ma g ge r rös sen u u. t k körú z um Múze gyar u. u 8 fia zó S 22 2 3 2 gu . Rég Lajo ssuth FERENCIEK Petőfi tér Tabáni M Ko Ferences 33 TERE r u. VÖRÖSMARTY Kár 10 ess M W 43 oly TÉR 13 kör Vörösmarty Nagy út . u 18 40 Roosevelt Zrínyi u.

Leonardo da Vinci u.. Dózsa G yörgy ú t Do u. rkocsis ra u. Városliget S sy gy 27 áb ör rás lib Gy BAJZA And Dé ety UTCA Felvonulási Km u. k u Fe Fecs Bacsó Vig Vig u. . u Hu Lövölde tér u. mb sef De Józ rek út Ma án Istv .. zo u. ins u u. er u b bill tn tte Rot u. BLAHA M LUJZA TÉR sa u. u. Vajdahunnyad u. Cse y yi u r rán . Ab on yi Ajt ós iD 14 üre rs or Th ök oly út Mu . zsa a Ró ella u sb IIsa 46 Blaha Lujza 12 tér 25 József körút Kisfaludy u. Templom u.113 Nightlife Best Bets SZÉCHENYI M FÜRDŐ Szépmivészeti Múzeum Magyar Hősök Mezőgazdasági tere Múzeum HŐSÖK M Petőfi TERE Műcsarnok u. 5 JÓZSEFVÁROS Nap u. Bé u. aú ia Já a au fán éz Stte yG hy Ziic u. B Béla u. He k Illka u. e llen eh Bet Országos Földtani Múzeum J József u.. yi u lén sse We Almássy tér c sy ác nk . Üllő Tızo N ag y . yu a art s sm örö Vö Kisstadion Puskás Ferenc Stadion . ly h há M Mi G G z zsa D Dó r rgy yö Bajj za u u. Auró e u. ály Kir Jós ika u. s .Gara plébániatemplom Mun kás u . M Hopp Ferenc tér di Ara Kelet-Ázsiai Múzeum r Kodály aso ti f körönd Kodály Zoltán ige osl Emlémúzeum M Vár KODÁLY KÖRÖND ny étá ys rol Ká s Kó ina m rm He út t iú kó xiik ú út t t Me cia ö ú nc a kör Frra ária ng ai u na Ró p plR Rip . Ném f u.. Da yu Sz Ch u.. tt or áv .. ltó u. . ch ani mj . Mu ád u d r rn He or u bo Gá r . áu hát sr . ny há e e sb zsé Erz t t t t körú Bar Ladino 1 Barokko Club & Lounge 2 Buena Vista 3 B7 4 Café Csiga 5 Café Eklektika 6 Capella 7 Caledonian Scottish Pub 8 Captain Cook 9 Castro Bisztró 10 Club Inside / Buddha Beach / Retro Beach 11 Corvintető 12 CoXx Men’s Club 13 Dürer kert 14 Egri Borozó 15 Ellátó 16 Fat Mo’s 17 Fészek Club 18 Gresham Bar 19 Grinzingi 20 Helvécia Söröző 21 Incognito 22 Instant 23 Irish cat 24 Jelen 25 Katapult Café & Pub 26 Kertem 27 Kiadó Kocsma 28 Kuplung 29 L’enoteca 30 Old Man’s Music Pub 31 Mumus 32 Museum Cukrászda 33 Negro 34 Noiret 35 Paris Texas 36 Piaf 37 Pótkulcs 38 Sandokan Lisboa 39 Sark 40 Sirály 41 Sixtus 42 Szimplakert 43 Szóda 44 Tokaji Borozó 45 Vittula 46 Wichmann 47 z Szö e vet g ség u. Csarnok i nd út u. e et u. Futó u.. Józse Horváth Mihály tér i út . Rákóczi éri Mik tér D M KÖRÚT FERENC Há rsf au t czi ú Rákó .. su e lejc efe Ne t ly ú öko Th Verseny u. u. ab erd áz ó Pet ár A ky ERZSÉBETVÁROS ndr z ás . Rózsák yu tére Szt. Közlekedési Múzeum út iina rrm u. Erzsébet. rédj Beze Köztársaság tér Nép szính áz u. ár u Bethlen Alp Gábor tér út u. Do bu u.

u. HÉV Station Boat Pier 0 0 0. ORFI Lukács gyógyfürdő Gü l Ba Róm ba u . Information Post Office M H s u. S ar ol Tör ökv ész út u ta . Szőlő u. nyeres Kolost Mátyás-hegy 301m Tímár u . Felhé vizi u ei út Szeréna út Zsigmond tér Árpád Fejedelem útja Leó út Vérhalom tér Vérhalom u. . t ölgyi ú Szépv Felső Zöldmáli út lgy Zsindely u.25 km 1/4 mi Apostol u. s u. Perc or út nedek u. Ke u. i u. SZÉPVÖLGYI Pacsirtamezo u. Árpá d fe Lajos u . Margit Kórház Föld u. Flórián Tér Ny ere m gú e te t k Kiscelli Múzeum ce Kiscell út ce lli u. Szemlő-hegyibarlang iú t m öm Ur Bar iú t Cs ejt Muraközi u. r u. ÓBUDA Szőlő u. k ke u Kecs . u. Viador u. Bud jedelem ai a l útja só r akp art Szé pv ö Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti sportuszoda Árpá d tán étány H Hajós Alfred s H MARGIT HÍD m u. Zápor u. ÚJLAK Bokor u. Lajo H ÚT Mátyáshegyi út Római Katonai Amifiteátrum s u. z i köz b be Do s si Béc út ó út rdó o F Foly n ndár u u. Teszársz K. u iu n n Fra kel Leó út s A Apo toll u. Selmeci u. Metro Station Boly a Margit körút kpart Újlaki ra Szem f e je dele m Virág Be útja Kis Koro na u. Solymár u. Ferenche gyi út lang u.114 The Best Nightlife Islands Nightlife Bed Beach 1 ChaChaCha Kert 2 Copacabana Party 3 Dokk 4 Holdudvar 5 Sark Kert 6 Sziget Klub Terasz 7 R Re Szt. as szt Pu r ze . s Kis e Rem y yi heg teh ö öz u. Frankel lőheg y u. Kiscelli Marco San Mar u. Gyene Szőlő u. Kavic Vé rha lo Császár gyógyfürdő Bécsi út Csemete u. Kór h áz u . u. türbeje Margit u. REMETEHEGY Reménység u. er F lóri s u Gül Baba ORFI . .

Révé Viza u. sv H ÁRPÁD Serfö ári út HÍD ző u . edűs rádi sák u. u. Viseg rádi u . Süllő u. t g tt y yú Esz terg omi ú t ÁRPÁD M HÍD Róbe zsa cú llcs B Bu u. Vise g Margit híd Kres Rad nót iM . ia u Csa n Tátr Poz son yi ú Holl t án E mő u. Árp ád f ejede lem útja Bud a i al só rakpart Árpád híd 3 Dagá ly u. Újp es Pan rádi Balz ac u u. u. art Ta ks on onyi at u. Tata j u. su ÚJLIPÓTVAROS a u. os u. Gyula u. Fe nd n iiná rd ííd hd . P es ti a l só Pozs Karp ónia Pann Viseg Kas 5 Centenariumi emlékmű kpa rt 2 7 Szt. Rönt Alig Váci út 6 Dé v ai Heg u. yu . u. Margit . 1 Hajógyárisziget Vizafogó u. Eszte rgom i u. Csán gó u . . Le gen u. Viseg rádi u. u. Mik Kassák Fő Múzeum tér Vasarely 4 Tav Múzeum asz Vörö u. fürd ő u. Gyula Dráv a u. Váci ú ör Gy Víztorony Vizafo Premontrei templom Párká ny u. z Gé za u . va D Dé . edűs Tisza Vág u. he Tü zér lu . Margitsziget Ferences templom romjai ÚJLIPÓTVAROS u. M GYÖRGY ÚT DÓZSA Karp Heg Dó út rakp Bess enye i u. u cú lcs B Bu . Véső u sz u. Lajo s u. Nép Mókus u. Gog ol Csodák Palotáia rtá r Laj u. iu Ipoly u. b Sza olc . u.115 Nightlife Best Bets lós u. Kórh áz u. Lehel tér ikló s u. r Hu go u . ti ra nón ády LEHEL M TÉR Szt. Bodo r u. Lő po u. Kenélőkút Róbe r a (D an ub e) H UTCA TÍMÁR Japánkert rt Ká roly k t Ká örút roly kör út VIZAFOGÓ rdő u . tány Du n Népfü gó sé Domonkos kolostor romjai Palatinus strand-fürdő Népf ürdő u. István park Victo Thur zó u . at u.

Map p 111. y 0630/874-3733. and a wide selection of drinks. y 1/269-3136. Map p 112.barokko. a cool terrace in summer. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. and terrific draught beer. ★ Buena Vista PEST Trendy but classy with slick Nordic minimalist design. www. Captain Cook PEST While supposedly an English pub. Metro: M3 to Arany János utca. y 1/210-0885. Vásár utca 2. and restaurant. Tram: 4/6 to Rákóczi tér. Belhaven Best flows freely in this cozy football-oriented gastropub that’s noted for its all-day Scottish breakfast. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Tram: 4/6 to Budai hídfó. Map p 112.hu. plus a terrace onto the Pest party square of Liszt Ferenc tér. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Go early as it closes around 9pm. Frankel Leó utca 2–4 (corner of Bem József utca). ★ Café Csiga PEST Cool Boho hangout with an intimate bar area at home on the corner of an atmospheric square. . Liszt Ferenc tér 4–5. Nonetheless. Mozsár utca 9. y 1/344-6303. Map p 112. mahogany tables. Liszt Ferenc tér 5. A good place to meet up before taking on the bars of Jewish District VII.116 The Best Nightlife Budapest Nightlife A to Z Bars & Pubs ★★ Bambi Presszó BUDA Named after a Socialist-period beverage. club. in this respect it’s far from authentic. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 19/a. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. A good place to hang out at any time of day and food is also served. plus a great terrace. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. www. ladino. Castro Bisztró PEST The original Castro that lit up the trendy bar Nordic minimalism at Buena Vista. y 1/311-7611. y 1/212-3171. Map p 112. this bar is hard to leave due to its intimate nooks and crannies. It also has a Scottish gift shop should you get stuck watching the soccer and be needing a present to make amends.hu. Restaurant upstairs and great terrace right on fashionable Liszt Ferenc tér. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. ★ Bar Ladino PEST Shabby cool bar-cum-eatery with funky brown wallpaper where old dudes playing cards in the afternoon give way to a thirty-something crowd. linseed oiled floors. being decked out in whatever memorabilia the owners could find. DJ parties downstairs. Dob utca 53. y 1/3220700. Map p 112. Bambi Presszó has original swinging Socialist sixties decor with red PVC and old guys playing dominos. ★★ Caledonian Scottish Pub PEST Draught Scottish bitter (or ‘heavy’ as it’s known in Scotland). Map p 112. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. Barokko Club & Lounge PEST Three-level all-in-one cocktail lounge bar.

is a tasteful mix of trendy lounge room. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. Fat Mo’s is for those who want to avoid the big club experience but still want to get down and boogie. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. but the poster-laden new venue still comes up with the goods. Map p 112. Klauzál tér 2. ★★★ Gresham Bar PEST Try the magical martinis in this pricey but classy cocktail bar. Map p 112. Krisztina tér 3. plus a pool table. cocktail and wine bar sections and also has a bistro. ‘the bringer’ delivers a lively and sometimes a tangibly flirty atmosphere. Roosevelt tér 5–6. fun. ★ Incognito PEST Long-established favorite in über trendy Liszt Ferenc Square with more character than most. Metro: M1 to Opera. Map p 112. Lots of 70s rock posters and music memorabilia. high end restaurant and breakfast joint all under one roof. The downside of its popularity is that the wonky wooden tables are often occupied. y 1/215-0184. Decent Serbian food is on hand for sustenance. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. y 1/342-1471. Map p 112. y 1/268-5100. Liszt Ferenc tér 3. Nyáry Pál utca 11. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere or Kálvin tér. Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel. Tram 18-56. it has a long bar and intimate dance floor. A fitting jazz soundtrack goes with the more discerning crowd but there’s still a flirty edge. a favorite hangout of generally discerning and well-to-do thirty and ups. ★★★ Instant PEST This new kid on the alternative block is already drawing in hordes with its unique look and layout. Join the crowd in the covered courtyard or explore the nooks and crannies upstairs where you’ll find several bars each with their own vibe. Look out for the dentist’s chair. Nagymezö utca 38. Madách tér 3. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér. Irish Cat PEST A steamy weekend atmosphere warms up winter nights as dancing breaks out around . ★★★ Ellátó PEST Attracting a slightly older arty crowd. or retire to the seats in the backroom. which adds grasshopper motives and an alabaster ceiling to Art Nouveau surroundings. Fat Mo’s speak-easy style. y 1/255-1407. Map p 112. y 1/332-0207. Also features internationally influenced bar food. Eötvös utca 23/b. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Metro: M1 to Opera. and without the alcoholinflicted grime so common in similar venues. Bus 105 to Krisztina tér. Stand around the bar and sip draught Staropramen. Helvécia Sörözó PEST Atmospheric cellar pub but one that’s clean. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. Map p 112. Map p 112. Map p 111. strip of Ráday utca with its alternative vibe was a real favorite of mine. or decent wines by the glass. Tram: 2 to Roosevelt tér. Déryné BUDA This converted coffeehouse close to the Castle District.117 Budapest Nightlife A to Z Fat Mo’s PEST A fun speak-easy style joint. y 1/267-3199. No phone.

Map p 112. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. Magyar style. Múzeum körút 41. Map p 112. ★ Jelen PEST The ‘Boys Don’t Cry’ poster by The Cure at the entrance of Jelen welcomes those looking to relive their student days. hangout that was once a garage and still looks like one except for the very long bar. and by night a favorite of assorted revelers who come to sober up on solids—but often keep on drinking until the sun comes up. This was my favorite watering hole when I worked close by. y 1/266-7226. y 1/214-3144. live music or just a Nirvana soundtrack. the bar fueled by an enthusiastic mixed age and nationality crowd. Football tables and a ping-pong table are on hand for those up to the challenge. y 1/452-0888. Metro: M2 to Astoria. ★★ Kiadó Kocsma PEST Cool hangout with an arty intellectual library booth-like setting downstairs and a bright street-level café upstairs. and tables. Metro: M1 to Opera. seats. y 1/266-4085. Fó utca 4. Múzeum körút 10. y 1/331-1955. Serbian and Hungarian food is served. Guinness and food also served. Cute terrace that’s nice for seeing in the new day. ★★ Negro PEST Dark and sultry chichi lounge room/cocktail bar with a summer terrace leading onto the stunning basilica-dominated Szent István tér. y 0626/344-3155. Lánchíd Sörözó BUDA A great place for a beer after a hard day’s Buda sightseeing. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. meaning you see the square at . Blaha Lujza tér 1–2 (corner of Márkus Emília utca and Stáhly utca). Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. Tram: 4/6. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Map p 112.118 The Best Nightlife Old memorabilia adorns the walls at Lánchid Sörözó. Simple and unpretentious. The terrace looks immediately out to the stunning Great Synagogue directly over the road. Decent pub grub. the welcome is a warm one. Map p 112. Király utca 46. and decked out in old memorabilia. Bus: 86/105 to Clark Ádám tér. ★ Katapult Café & Pub PEST Fun and colorful bar with DJ evenings. Dohány utca 1. Map p 111. ★★ Kuplung PEST The ‘Clutch’ is a grungy underground Boho ★ Museum Cukrászda PEST A busy cake and coffee shop by day. Map p 112. Tram: 19 to to Clark Ádám tér. The bar is actually located in the square’s only ugly building. Jókai tér 3. y 0630/986-8856.

119 its best. y 1/269-1050. Wheat beer is búzasör in Hungarian. The mature female clientele make this music pub just as much the ‘Old Girl’s’ as the ‘Old Man’s’. Ostrom utca 14. good wine. Here. the pictures on the wall of Museum Cukrászda. Map p 112. y 1/3227645. Budapest Nightlife A to Z Noiret PEST Pool and darts cellar with a party vibe and a jukebox pumping out greatest hits soundtracks. ★ Paris Texas PEST An old favorite on the trendy Ráday utca party strip. y 1/ 302-0136. Map p 111. Metro: M1 to Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út. the ‘Spare Key’ is easy to miss but difficult to leave. The seats outside are pleasant too. Tram: 4/6. y 1/218-0570. friendly faces are welcoming as you settle down for a drink in this real pub atmosphere. ★★ Oscar Café BUDA A city slickers-oriented Buda bar that’s known for top cocktails. Old Man’s Music Pub PEST Good late on for a last drink and a free dance to old classics. conjure up the city of Lisbon. It also has a single snooker table and a separate non-smoking pool area. is hidden with the dim lighting. however. Ráday utca 22. whose venues often lack substance over style. which pardons the now-dated Hollywood theme that. Map p 112. Tram: 47/49. Dessewffy utca 8–10 (corner of Hajos utca). Tram: 61 to Csörsz utca. There may be no Portuguese beer but the thirst-quenching draught Spanish San Miguel is close enough. Map p 112. Csengery utca 65/B. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. Map p 112. Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. and the fact it’s in a shopping mall hardly detracts from the experience. Map p 112. ★ Pótkulcs PEST Set behind a nondescript gate. y 1/224-2020. y 1/212-8017. Hajós utca 23 (corner . it also serves plenty of veggie pub grub. Tavern-like on one side by the bar. onto which the action spills in summer. Akácfa utca 13. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér. Tram: 4/6. Alkotás utca 53. or for local rock gigs. Map p 111. Metro: M3 to Arany János utca. Tram: 4/6 to Nyugati pu. y 1/331-6103. ★★ Sandokan Lisboa PEST The colorfully tiled interior and decaying townhouses on this pedestrian street. and draught beer. ★ Paulaner Brauhaus BUDA A huge German gastro beer hall with beer brewed on site. Popular with the student and young alternative crowd. Top floor of MOM Park. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér. but the staff will understand German ‘weißbier’. Pótkulcs becomes a grungy cellar on the other. fortunately. Szent István tér 11.

Bus: 7 to Uránia. y 0620/957-2291. chill out in the gallery or groove to music down in the basement. Shabby cool and expanding. attracting a young arty crowd. No phone. Chat up upstairs. its permanent home. Map p 112. Map p 112. Cheap wine. y 1/302-7002. to a concert and theater venue. No phone. and occasional cinema. Király utca 50. y 1/328-0753.120 The Best Nightlife of Ó utca). Map p 112. Egri Borozó PEST Unpretentious wine cellar with Flintstone furniture . Wesselényi utca 18. Tram: 4 or 6 to Király utca. Ask at the bar about Vittula’s art gallery. ★★★ Szimplakert PEST The great survivor of temporary nightspots that sprung up in derelict Admire the Manga wallpaper at Szóda. ★★ Szóda PEST The alternative ambience here is provided by a backdrop of Japanese Manga comic strip wallpaper. Metro: M2 to Batthány tér. y 1/3226174. ★ Sirály PEST A twisty staircase connects this three-level arty venue that’s everything from a buzzing barcum-coffee house. y 1/457-0807. There’s a fun dance floor downstairs in fall and winter. ★★★ Sark PEST I’ve dropped into the cool ‘Corner Bar’ many times to meet up with friends before embarking on a tour of District VII nightspots only to spend the whole evening there. Kertész utca 4. ★ Wichmann PEST Classic smoky drinking den in a lovely old house that. Map p 112. ★★ Vittula PEST Grungy hip cellar bar frequented by a friendly and up-for-it mixed nationality clientele. Map p 112. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. Map p 111. Slightly cliquey at first sight. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. Map p 112. Klauzál tér 14. retro red plastic seats. Map p 112. Bem rakpart 2. Nagy Diófa utca 26–28. Kazinczy utca 14. Map p 112. Metro: M2 to Astoria. beer. give it an old-world tavern feel. Tram: 4/6 to Wesselényi utca. but everyone’s your friend when the drinks start to flow. Usually attracts an alternative/student crowd. with free WiFi it seems to be many people’s unofficial office. Kazinczy utca 55. Founders include winemaker Zsolt Tiffán and the pop star Ákos. ★★ Sixtus PEST Tiny bar with a big personality. along with the long wooden tables and bar. Wine Bars ★★ Andante BUDA Serious wine bar in an elegant riverside building next to the Chain Bridge offering an extensive selection of Hungarian wines with cold dishes to match. The alternative rock soundtrack is supplemented by occasional DJs. and spirits are consumed by the eclectic crowd with remarkable speed. exhibition space. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. Metro: M1 to Opera. y 1/413-6722. it’s a longtime home to boho expats and likeminded arty Hungarians. its second location. Closed Sun & Mon. and soda siphons. y 0670/389-6463. Tram: 4/6 to Wesselényi utca. internet hotspot. buildings has made this. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza Astoria.

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Budapest Nightlife A to Z

selling barrels of cheap and cheerful vino in green ceramic jugs and mugs. Not sure if it’s the quantity or quality that gives the next-day headache—but that’s a small price to pay. Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 72.

y 1/302-1724. Metro: M3 to Nyugati pu. or Arany János utca. Tram: 4/6 to Nyugati pu. Map p 112.
Grinzingi PEST Rough-and-ready wine bar with a great atmosphere where five different types of wine from the Mátra region flow in a scary quantity. The chairs are chunky and fixed to the floor so nobody falls off. Veres Pálné utca
10. y 1/317-4624. Metro: M3 to Ferenciek tere. Map p 112.
Find an extensive selection of Hungarian wines at Andante.

★★ L’enoteca PEST Cute Italianate wine bar with a wide selection of quality Hungarian and Italian wines available by the glass and bottle, plus cheese, hams, and salumis. Great views to Buda from the street terrace. Belgrád rakpart 13. y 1/4861665. Tram: 2 to Március 15. tér. Map p 112.

that swallows up people from all walks of life heading home from work. You certainly won’t find the finest examples of the sumptuously sweet Tokaji Aszú here (see p 150) but you will find a great wine cellar atmosphere and some hearty bites.
Falk Miksa utca 32. y 1/269-3143. Tram: 2/4/6 to Jászai Mari tér. Map p 112.

Mátravidéki Borozó BUDA Hardened local drinkers occupy the front bar area downing the cheap but quaffable wine from the Mátra. The lady of the house keeps the place in tip-top condition and the cool rustic back room is very pleasant. Corvin tér 1. y 1/214-4020.
Metro: M2 to Batthyány tér. Map p 111.

Summer Bars/Venues ★★★ Bed Beach HAJÓGYÁRISZIGET Whiter than white décor, the ideal backdrop for hot hedonistic nights to hardcore dance music on Budapest’s glitzy nightlife island. The place to be seen but not for a quiet drink. Hajógyárisziget.

★ Tokaji Borozó PEST Descend the steps into this crypt-like setting

y 0630/436-4400. Suburban train: HÉV to Filatorigát. Map p 114.

Garden Party
The hot summer bars and venues are usually open May to September but sometimes open later due to bad weather. Many come and go but the once listed are expected to be open in 2009 and beyond.

122

The Best Nightlife

★★ Cafe del Rio BUDA Dress in your summer coolest and sip expensive cocktails at this fancy outdoor venue that pumps out dance music to a backdrop of palm trees and undeniably beautiful girls. Goldmann
György tér 1. y 0630/297-2158. www.rio.hu. No cover Mon–Thur. Ft 1,000 cover Fri–Sat after 11pm. Tram: 4/6 to Petófi híd budai hídfó. Map p 111.

from island under Árpád bridge). y 1/239-1509. Bus: 26 to Zenélókút. Map p 114.

ChaChaCha Kert MARGARET
ISLAND Sandwiched between tennis courts and a sports stadium, this outdoor venue goes from a relaxed place to take an early evening drink to groove central as everyone takes to the al fresco dance floor (on hot summer nights from Wednesday to Saturday). After summer the action moves indoors and underground to a cool cellar labyrinth at Bajcsy Zsilinszky út 63, close to Nuygati Station. Tram: 4/ 6 to Margitsziget.
Bus: 26 to Szigeti bejáró. Map p 114.

★★★ Corvintetó PEST Set atop a Socialist-era shopping complex, Corvin is a cool spot on steamy summer nights. The rooftop is open summers only but the Bohemian warehouse-type hangout is worth checking out any time of year. (You’ll need to climb several flights of stairs.) Corvin Áruház; Blaha Lujza
tér 1–2 (entrance from Somogyi Béla utca). y 0620/772-2984. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. Tram: 4/6 to Blaha Lujza tér.

★★ Dürer kert PEST Drink and think in this cool, less-frequented courtyard of the Arts University. Tree stumps, colorful lights plus DJs and gigs at weekends with a fun interior maze of extreme retro rooms that are also open winters.
Ajtósi Dürer sor 19–21. y 1/7894444. Trolley bus: 74 to Ajtósi Dürer sor. Map p 112.

Copacabana Party MARGARET ISLAND Copacabana hosts regular gigs at its pleasant riverside spot. Take your drinks to the northern tip of the island and hang off like Di Caprio and Winslet in the movie Titanic. Margitsziget (entrance
Trendy nightspot Holdudvar.

★★ Fecske BUDA Relaxing and airy rooftop location with cushioned sofas overlooking the Komjádi swimming pool. The aquatic theme continues with views down the Danube and sun beds. Food served.

123

Budapest Nightlife A to Z

Árpád fejedelem útja 8. y 1/3260714. Bus: 6/60/86 to CsászárKomjádi Uszoda. Map p 111.

★★★ Holdudvar MARGARET ISLAND Converted from a famous casino, this trendy nightspot successfully marries old-world charm with modern touches. The garden bars are surrounded by trees, plus there’s a gallery, dance floor, and a restaurant. y 1/236-0155. Tram: 4/6 to Margitsziget. Bus: 26 to Hajós Alfréd Uszoda. Map p 114. ★★ Kertem PEST The extremely laid back ‘My Garden’ feels like everyone’s garden. Old vinyl discs decorate the bar, while the sleeves of incredibly schmaltzy looking singers line the route to the toilets. Christmas lights add funky color after dark. Olof Palme sétány 3.
Metro: M1 to Hósök tere. Map p 112.

Mumus.

Danube at night, but the toilets aren’t that idyllic. Kids’ play area.
Tram: 4/6 to Margitsziget. Map p 114.

★★★ Mumus PEST After a fouryear absence, Mumus returned in 2008 with its unique brand of alternative art and decor that has been applied to this once derelict Jewish District townhouse. Colorful entrance, installations, and a gallery next to the toilet. Dob utca 18. No phone. Metro: M2 to Astoria. Map p 112. ★★ Romkert BUDA Dramatically situated between the river and the foot of Gellért Hill, in the garden under the beautiful Turkish dome of the Rudás baths. There’s always a steady flow of cocktails and the music scene is set for a serious al fresco party. Döbrentei tér 9 (Garden of the Rudas Baths). Tram: 18/19 to Döbrentei tér. Map p 111. ★ Sark Kert MARGARET ISLAND Next to the Danube bank on Margaret Island, this laidback, slightly grungy and bamboo-laden setting is ideal for a quiet drink and a chat under the sun or stars. The light shines enticingly off the

Sziget Klub Terasz MARGARET ISLAND Overlooking my favorite tennis courts (p 89) and perched above the Danube this is an enjoyable place for a quiet drink without grunge or glamour. Margitsziget
(approx. 100m on left entering island from Margaret Bridge). y 0670/ 531-2955. Tram: 4/6 to Margitsziget. Map p 114.

Zöld Pardon BUDA Festival-like atmosphere attracting an up-for-it student crowd. Varied attractions include a lake bar you paddle up to, a pálinka (fruit brandy) house, a games and dance area plus loads of live music. Southern side of Goldmann György tér. Tram: 4/6 to Petófi híd, Budai hídfó. Map p 111.

=

Clubs ★★ B7 PEST Big booming
‘rhythm and bling’ dance club in the heart of central Pest providing glitzy nightlife action without having to trek out to the big clubs of Hajogyári Sziget. Nagymezó utca
48–48. y 1/269-0573. www.b7.hu.

124 The Best Nightlife Admission varies. Admission varies. y 0630/535-2747. Map p 112. open every day May–Sep. Nagymezó utca 30. A great hangout any time of day. www.hu. and disco. House. techno. Metro: M1 to Oktogon or Opera. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. The slightly mature crowd should know better but can’t resist coming back. Hajógyárisziget 122. ★★★ CoXx Men’s Club PEST Hidden gents’ club with themed nights including macho.coxx. Tastefully done but quite hardcore. Map p 112. Gay & Lesbian ★★ Café Eklektika PEST The same old lovely lesbian hospitality as its like-named predecessor now comes in a more mature location and under a stucco ceiling.hu. wwww. ★★★ Piaf PEST This Budapest classic rocks through till dawn with . Közraktár utca 9–11.500 for men. www. Ft 800 cover. y 1/3426549. Tram: 2 to Március 15 tér. y 1/266-1266. Ring the bell to get in.hu. y 1/210-4872. Map p 112. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. y 1/344-4884.hu. Open Fri. the party moves to retro-style Buddha Beach and Retro Beach. Parisian-style sleaze upstairs and a greatest hits soundtrack downstairs.piafklub.capella. The action moves outdoors to Dock Beach in summer. Sat. Map p 112. Dohány utca 38. Map p 112. In summer. Suburban train: HÉV to Filatorigát. Map p 114. www. women free. The sight of so many beautiful girls under one roof gets the men’s pulses racing. Ft 1. plus old classics are churned out. Metro: M1 to Oktogon or Opera. and a ‘bear club’. Map p 112. Tram: 2 to Közraktár utca.000 admission. Nagymezó utca 25. y 1/318-6231. ★★ Club Inside/Buddha Beach/Retro Beach PEST Pest waterfront and riverside warehouses converted and devoted to good times. Open Wed–Sat. ★★ Capella PEST This Pest three-level waterfront hotspot is a bit too mixed for some as many straights pile in for the midnight drag show. military cruising. Kertész utca 36. However. Entry varies. Wed–Sat. Tram: 4/6 to Kiraly utca. Belgrád rakpart 23. y 1/312-3823. Dokk Beach free entry. Entry to Club Inside Ft 1. Metro: M1 to Oktogon or Opera. Free entry to Buddha Beach/Retro Beach. including one drink. you never know what you’re going to get here—it ranges from seriously arty one night to gangster bling the next. ★★★ Fészek Club PEST Amazing bijou artists’ cellar club with a risqué atmosphere and borderline bordello decoration. eklektika.clubinside. Map p 112. a lively crowd twists the night away to dance and disco in camped-up surroundings. www. Nevertheless. Free–Ft 300 cover. ★★★ Dokk HAJÓGYÁRISZIGET Über trendy club with top dance DJs in a spacious converted warehouse on Hajogyári Sziget (Boatyard Island).hu.

8 The Best Arts & Entertainment .

Permanently moored on the River Danube at Vigadó tér (p 134) Best Heavenly Acoustics ★★★ Matthias Church (Mátyás Templom). Liliom utca 41 (p 134) Best Pop Art ★ Ludwig Museum. Sztregova utca 3 (p 134) Best Free Underground Concerts ★★★ Gödör. Andrássy út 22 (p 133) Best Contemporary Performance Art ★★★ Trafó House of Contemporary Arts. Palace of Arts. Dózsa György út 41. B. Szentháromság tér 2 (p 132) Matthias Church for heavenly acoustics. D. Liszt Ferenc tér 8 (p 132) Best Independent and Gay Movies Cirko-geyzír. Komor Marcell utca (p 130) Best Floating Rock Concerts ★★★ A38 Ship. Szent György tér 2 (p 131) Best Night at the Opera ★★★ Opera House. (p 14) Best Place to Tap into the Local Jazz Scene ★ Columbus Jazz Club. Overlooking Heroes Square (p 130) Best Magyar Masters ★★★ National Gallery.126 The Best Arts & Entertainment Arts & Entertainment Best Bets Best Art Nouveau Auditorium ★★★ Ferenc Liszt Music Academy (Liszt Ferenc Zeneakadémia). C. Moored on the River Danube next to Petófi híd (p 133) Best State-of-the-Art Classic Music Venue ★★ Béla Bartók National Concert Hall. Palace of Arts. Balassi Bálint utca 15–17 (p 133) Best Collection of European Masters ★★★ Fine Arts Museum. . Erzsébet tér. Komor Marcell utca (p 132) Best Folk Concerts ★★★ Fonó Budai Zeneház. Buda Palace. Buildings A.

Déli Vérmező Roosevelt pályaudvar Disz ris tér Mérleg u. tóbe Október 6. Vill ány i út 2 n nc Sá u. út ori Gy Alsó heg y u. Erzsébet Park út alja gyógyfürdő Döbrentei híd egy Csörsz u. hÁ 3 L templom r ád sét án VÁ Szabadság tér szá ARANY JÁNOS UTCA M s u. Bérc u. cu . K K lór is u MARGIT HÍD . Szt r art k akp rt rt r ellé Ge t út Som 0 0 en he g út lói Gellért gyógyfürdő 1/2 mi 0. Vérm ező ú M B y u. t te Esz Róm er F Ró zsa he Bimbó út gy u.. H Margit tér Margit körút National Dance Theatre 5 National Gallery 6 Óbudai Társakör 7 Szt. Medve u.. s u. u. Csalogány u. Nádo Nádor u. na József Attila lánchíd kö Clark Erzsébet Várszínház rút Ádám tér tér M zk óT . y t art ó só rakp Budai alls őú Fő út p . Széchenyi zti tér 5 u. Kálmán Im Báthory u. VÖRÖSMARTY M DEÁK ád Krisztina Alagút u Budavári TÉR eu FERENC tér út palota . Millenáris Park u. yi Irén u. T Ú Úri ius Ko Kosc u u. r dr t rt pa akp M Metro Station Mé ne si ú Köb t öl k út u. t DÉLI PÁLYAUDVAR M Zrínyi u. o os J Ján th Fiá Honv Honvéd u. Alkotmán re u. Citadella Kelenhegy S Jubileumi i út Sziklatemplom park Fo Zenetorteneti Múzeum Halászbástya gh áz ót Mátyás u.127 Arts & Entertainment Best Bets Buda Arts & Entertainment Apostol u. á áz őh vő L Lö Keleti Ká roly u . anube) Bem József u. Istv án kör Balato n u. Ak Akadémia u t kp akpar Széchenyi ra Or T u. út u u. ii u od t og la út a tti At a llot Pa áral V tii Pest alsó a art r rakp Liis zn ya ii u ó lsó a ai a Bu d . ja TÉR Ge u. Anna VÍZIVÁROS templom na rt u Néprajzi Múzeum Országház Kossuth Lajos tér KOSSUTH M LAJOS TÉR y u. H M BATTHYÁNY TÉR Szt. . ld u. sta György tér i po Rég Kri Att szt ila Naphegy ina út Belvárosi tér kör út út Tabáni plébániatemplom tó NAPHEGY Saj plébániatemplom ad zab Tig S MOM ris Rác u. Information Post Office zirt es Nagy Ig nác u. Gellért park gyógyfürdő emlékmű Orom Hegyalja út GELLÉRTHEGY Szir ih te s M út Otthon u. . t rt kpa rak Bel rá grá Alkotás u. ály u. Hold u. Áld ás u . t. yán atth Krisztina körút Hadtörténeti Múzeum Toldy Feren Batthyány u.5 km 1 l Ke y yi út . Mammut MOSZKVA TÉR Varsán Gyorkocsi u. Vadász u. Táltos u. záro Més Tigris u . Budai alsó rakpart Tölgy fa u. . A Avar u. á u Váci it kö rút Duna (D 4 Király gyógyfürdő Kacsa u. u ru Boly ai u.. Szt. Pesti alsó rakpart Falk Mik sa u. Lás Kitaib el P ál u . Lukács gyógyfürdő 7 A38 Ship 1 Fonó Budai Zeneház 2 Matthias Church 3 Millenáris 4 Margit híd zló u. Markó u. Dózsa . Magyar Nemzeti llé 6 rth Galéria BELVAROS eg yu u. Fő út Bem rakpart M arg Fazekas u. H Aladár u. Bud áy Boat Pier Sz üre H HÉV Station tu . tér CsörszRudas u. István Bazílíka Alkotás u. Arany Jáno Szt..

. KOSSUTH M LAJOS TÉR LIPOTVAROS Sz d on iu VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA T Te rréz Lo Terror Háza gu M . u. A Zrín tér Roosevelt 21 Klauzál M BAJCSY Mérleg u. . Hold u. c czy K Kazin u. ál u u.25 km t p par ra k a ó i als t t u a Bud aú tilla At u u. yu nya Lóny FERENCVÁROS Bakáts tér . u. tér PÁLYAUDVAR Nyugati NYUGATI M pályaudvar . Vác tér Rudas gyógyfürdő . István . Clark Ádám tér Széchenyi lánchíd Budavári palota Tabáni plébániatemplom Rác gyógyfürdő c Rákó u. a u. i u. edű s Gy ula Vise grád u. a tér ófi Liszt Sz Ferenc 10 tér 7 örú kö e et é séb E Erz m e ez őu u. B Ba ív u Sz . Zoltán u. éu é P ln s Pá ee Ver u i u. TEREZVÁROS Ar ad iu . .128 The Best Arts & Entertainment Pest Arts & Entertainment Újp esti rakp art Poz son yi ú Holl t án E Tátr mő u.. Néprajzi Múzeum Alkotmány u. Horá Horánszky u. Honvéd u. VÖRÖSMARTY Kár lén M oly e ss e TÉR W kör Vörösmarty Nagy út Fővárosi tér zsinagóga Önkormányzat 4 ARANY M JÁNOS UTCA Operaház 16 13 Hunyadi Oktogon tér Jókai M OKTOGON u. u. u jós Ná Nádor u. t rút m kö ú u ru Múze gyar u. t par rakp s u. Szalay u. va y ag Na u. Kálmán Im Lajos tér Báthory u. a ay u Rád G Ge t ra llllér t rt pa kp 2 12 17 u. Vásárcsarnok Csarnok tér i Kin t u. t t Ke té rté sz k Ak ácff u. Pa n nón ia u Heg .. ö Vö s rös . ZSILINSZKY tér Ho tér u. . Westend City Center d hííd Po icz an dm ky u. ry Pá m u. Kres z Gé za u . M OPERA 6 Arany Jáno Szt. Bécsi u h Do út zi ó lsó s ia Pest Pe en Szentkir o or nd án ii S tőf u. Gellért tér Gellért gyógyfürdő Fővám tér Szabadság híd rút kö áz mh Vá M KÁLVIN TÉR Kálvin tér u u. ly lyi P Kirá . Lehel tér d rd F Fe H MARGIT HÍD Margit híd Jászai Mari tér Kat d d án i ná Duna (D anube) Pesti alsó rakpart Balassi B álint u. Október 6. ar Baross u. au y án u.. u . ku jno . Síp u. lek zte 1 Kö Iparművészeti Múzeum u. Szabadság tér Zic hy Je nő u. FERENC TÉR ach yi u u. ÚT lló József Attila u. S Szt Citadella Szt. . Falk M iksa u. Ak Akadémia u rt k par t zéche Széchenyi ra t art só só rakp Budai all t Fő út M H 0 0 6. Nyá Döbrentei híd Múzeu V Vá c ii u. au elll ab Isa Bajcsy Zsilinszky út Garibaldi u. zsi Üll ői ú . 11 ály Kir Rum Erzsébet tér M DEÁK b . a Ma Information Post Office Metro Station HÉV Station Jubileumi Boat Pier park 1/4 mi 0. Múzeum rás ula István nd Pa yi u. au zsa ó Ró Markó Honvéd u. Do bu . Istv án kör út Balaton u. BELVÁROS sta M ASTORIA i po s u. u. Belvárosi Sándo templom út plébániatemplom Bródy ajtó dS Magyar ba Petőfi Irodalmi Sza Nemzeti Múzeum Múzeum Erzsébet l u. Szt.. t rrú k kö . Vas u Puskin u ályi u. Rég Lajo suth FERENCIEK Petőfi tér KosFerences TERE M r u. Bazílíka Ernst eu út sy y Ed Szt. Országház Kossuth re u. . Vadász u. ln Mo áll u. Vác i út Margitsziget ÚJLIPÓTVAROS Balz ac u . LEHEL TÉR M Le he lu . Ha ld u. e ery su ng v tvö en C Cs E Eö u. yu art ma u u. ona Józ sef u. u iu k ka Jó Ó u. Kla z uz .

rédj Beze B szính áz u.. lyi u ahe Mátyás Szerd tér .. er u ille nb tte Rot u u. KÖRÖND ich jan . am D yu Lövölde Sz Ch u. u. urá Mu ád u rná . u rek út ika Ma án Jós Kisstadion . or u bo Gá nG hlle B Bet ef u. Baross pályaudvar kás u Mun tér KELETI Kerepesi út M PÁLYAUDVAR Szo iu nd . Práter u. He IIll u u. JÓZSEFVÁROS Vajdahunnyad u. szo Kos . óu nk ú rú u. M Kelet-Ázsiai Múzeum tér di Ara sor Kodály ti fa körönd Kodály Zoltán ige osl Emlémúzeum M Vár KODÁLY u. D Da . bu ár u Bethlen Do Alp Puskás Gábor tér Ferenc . Kálvária tér Nap u. Józse Horváth Mihály tér Kisfaludy u. k ke Fecs z ghá Dolo u. á ffán za Gé Ste hy Zic y y ö örg Gy z zsa Dó út a Baj za u. Üllő 19 20 Tızo i út Botanikus kert Klinikák ltó u. Múzeum u. érkocsi Nép Köztársaság tér u u. Ab on PÁLYAUDVAR BLAHA LUJZA TÉR t czi ú Rákó u. ély László tér Erd .. r s aro F Fuv a y Nag róra u. Rákóczi Miksa tér Déri József körút f u. t t e ei ú um Fiiu 5 Applied Arts Museum 1 Béla Bartók National Concert Hall 2 Budapest Arena 3 Columbus Jazz Club 4 Erkel Színház 5 Ernst Museum 6 Ferenc Liszt Music Academy 7 Filter Klub 8 Fine Arts Museum 9 Giero 10 Gödör 11 Ludwig Museum 12 Mai Manó Gallery 13 Műcsarnok 14 Nádor Terem 15 Bókay János u.. Szigony u. . u u. ab erd áz tér ó Pet ár Országos A Földtani ky ERZSÉBETVÁROS ndr z ás ... 15 Városliget y bu ssy rg á á yö lib dr Dé yG BAJZA An et UTCA Hopp Ferenc Felvonulási Km u. Futó u.129 Arts & Entertainment Best Bets SZÉCHENYI M FÜRDŐ Szépmivészeti Múzeum 9 ny étá ys rol Ká s Kó n ina m rrm H He ú út út óii xi k út Me ia örút n nc kö F Fra áriia g ng Petőfi 14 Közlekedési Csarnok Műcsarnok Múzeum út .. Th ök oly yi út u. s u. Stadion t iu y ly ú . Teleki i u. zsa a R Ró ellla u b b Isa y rty ma rös Vö e He Ne e felle jcs u. au oln gd Ma Baross u. József u. Ajt ós iD üre rs or u..Ga Dózsa G We Almássy yörgy ú ny plébániatemplom tér t há Keleti Do 8 . R Ró plyu lly Rip h há Mii csy ác n nk M Mu u. Opera House 16 Palace of Arts 17 PECSA 18 Trafó Bár Tangó 19 Trafó House of Contemporary Arts 20 VAM Design Center 21 Illé Illés u. ly ef u mb á s De Kir Józ . ldi u Alfö u u. én Rózsák l u Verseny u. a au t só Bacsó Kun V Vig u. M KÖRÚT FERENC Nagy Tömő u. Béla u.. ör körú é t sébe E Er z é ség v vet S Szö á Há rsff . Hősök tere HŐSÖK M TERE Magyar Mezőgazdasági Múzeum 18 Hu t t aú ina u erm ka u. M Blaha Lujza tér u. ht rhá Cse u. Auró e u. or út vo J Já iia u. nyi . ins u. Istv .. s . tére Szt. Erzsébet. Templom u. öko sse ray 3 Th u. iu na . . Leonardo da Vinci u. u. m Ném et u.

Üllói út 33–37. Home to the Hungarian Foundation of Photography. Reynolds. Warhol. and a bizarre singing saint from Madrid star among Art Nouveau objets industriels. Tiepolo. Tues– Sun 10am–5:30pm. Ft 1. part-Hungarian Dürer whose father hailed from Hungary. The museum also features many temporary exhibitions and is a good place to take kids who can join interactive educational searches (see p 115.hu. Map p 128. Ernst Museum PEST Temporary exhibition space that’s run by the Múcsarnok. Jordaens. www. ★ Ludwig Museum PEST Lichtenstein. Rembrandt. Tickets Ft 1. Free for permanent collection. Map p 128. y 1/555-3444. Map p 128. Brueghel the Elder. Habsburgs. Mai Manó Gallery PEST Photographer Manó Mai is the man behind this suitably arty 1894 building.130 The Best Arts & Entertainment Arts & Entertainment A to Z Art Galleries & Museums ★★★ Applied Arts Museum PEST Porcelain once owned by the Tsars. y 1/469 7100. Metro: M1 to Hósök tere.200. Nagymezó utca 20. y 1/473-2666. y 1/460-7000. Anything from local to Mexican artists can be exhibited. Dózsa György út 41. Tram: 2 to Millenniumi Kulturális Központ. Come early when major temporary exhibitions are running. Map p 128.ludwig museum. maimano. Constable. szepmuveszeti.mucsarnok. ★★★ Fine Arts Museum PEST An outstanding collection of Spanish masters (see p 14. . Nagymezó utca 8. Palace of Arts. Metro: M1 to Opera.hu. www. www. Metro: M1 to Opera. and the Mai Manó Gallery. www. Metro: M3 to Ferenc körút. Van Dyck. Overlooking Heroes Square.hu. bullet 8).hu. @ 11⁄2–2 hr.200. Titian. which focuses on ‘thematic solo and group exhibitions that reflect on the social and urban environment’. and a Picasso matador carousing with a naked woman feature among contemporary Magyar artists and their works. it hosts varied local and international photo exhibitions. bullet 3) plus other greats including Raphael. Chic adjoining bar. home to the Hungarian Foundation of Photography. Komor Marcell utca 1. Tickets Ft 700.

of cutting-edge expression plays host to a variety of local and international performance arts. Map p 128. Map p 128. Hósök tere. Tickets vary. Map p 127. It is flanked by further elaborate paintings depicting the pillars of economy. C. Metro: M2 to Ferenc Körút. installations. It’s so diverse that nothing would surprise me. Béla Bartók National Concert Hall.trafo. and Festival Theater among its attractions. but immaculately restored in 2008. y 1/336-4000. Komor Marcell utca 1. many of which are accessible for non-Hungarian speakers.mucsarnok. Budapest’s neo-Baroque Eastern train station. Palace of Arts (Múvészetek Palotája) PEST This high-tech and chic art house is the centerpiece of the new ‘Millennium City Center’ with the Ludwig Gallery. Liliom utca 41.millenaris. Bus: 16/16A/116 to Dísz tér. concerts and DJ nights. www. .hu. For an excellent view from up above. www. Metro: M2 to Moszkva tér. is pretty run down. Step into the international ticket office to see the contrast or check the outside of the building. www. Buda Palace.131 Arts & Entertainment A to Z From Station to Station An argument has ensued over the gleaming frescoes that adorn the main waiting room at Keleti. y 1/215-1600. Tram: 4/6 to Széna tér. Tram: 2 to Millenniumi Kulturális Központ. much of the rest of the station. B. Tickets Ft 1.hu.hu. ★★ Múcsarnok PEST Behind the striking exterior of this neoRenaissance building lies a top exhibition space. which holds up to six major local and international contemporary visual art exhibitions annually. which is palatial in design and dramatic in dimension. Otherwise. The centerpiece features mythological figures sitting on a rail car and pulled by angels down the tracks. Szent György tér 2. ★★★ National Gallery BUDA Look out for works by the darkly talented Mihály Munkácsy. Nice outdoor area for kids. Eiffel’s Nyugati Station is an epic glass and iron structure that commuters barely notice as they pile into Pest on their way to work. One of the side buildings is home to a remarkably grand McDonalds. Tickets Ft 800. and holds film festivals. y 1/555-3001.hu. Dating back to 1884. the completely unique Tivadar Csontváry. Metro: M1 to Hósök tere.mng. who Picasso once referred to as the other great artist of the 20th century. D. Tickets vary. Map p 128. Kis Rókus utca 16–20. nightclubs take up this prime space. www.200. y 1/460-7014. ★★★ Trafó House of Contemporary Arts PEST This hotbed Arts Centers ★★★ = Millenáris BUDA Über cool converted industrial complex packed with urban art. Buildings A. In 2008 a roof-top bar was operating. and Hungary’s very own Impressionist Rippl-Rónai. climb the stairs of the Skala shopping center opposite. Map p 127. y 0620/439-7420.

Tickets vary.hu. Although I once saw Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds here. y 1/5553300. y 1/666-3141. chamber music. Komor Marcell utca 1. Tram: 4/6 Oktogon. this state-of-the-art venue has the same dimensions as a Gothic cathedral and the acoustics to match. Tram: 2 to Millenniumi Kulturális Központ. Tickets vary. is a prime venue for strings. Liszt Ferenc tér 8. Király utca 26. y 1/342-0179. this 130-year-old education institution is paying for itself by putting on more of its own concerts. Classical Music Venues ★★ Béla Bartók National Concert Hall PEST Home to the Hungarian Philharmonic Orchestra led by the world-famous pianist Zoltán Kocsis. ★★ Nádor Terem PEST The intimate bijou Art Nouveau Nádor Hall.opera. Palace of Arts. Tickets vary. y 1/ 344-7072. Tickets vary. courtyard exhibitions free.hu. The pictures can be bought. y 1/333-0540. but pleasing acoustics from the inside. An experience not to be missed. 30. featuring the cream of Hungarian talent. Tickets vary. www. Map p 128. Erkel Színház PEST Socialistrealist from the outside. www. y 1/355-5657. Map p 128.vam design. Map p 128. hidden away in the Institute of the Blind. Regular performances are held in the awesome Art Nouveau auditorium. Tram: 4/6 to Király utca. . Metro: M2 to Blaha Luiza tér. Köztársaság tér VAM Design Center. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. www. The kind of place that is built to handle all that Handel’s Messiah can throw at it. Bus: 16/16A/116 to Szentháromság tér. Szentháromság tér 2. Map p 127. bullet 7. See p 24. Closed Jul & Aug. Ajtósi Dürer sor 39. Map p 128. it’s used mainly to share Budapest’s opera and ballet burden with the Opera House and Thalia Theater.132 The Best Arts & Entertainment ★★ VAM Design Center PEST Impressive new arts center that hosted the internationally renowned Bodies exhibition in 2008. and virtuoso performances.hu. ★★★ Ferenc Liszt Music Academy (Liszt Ferenc Zeneakadémia) PEST Facing funding cuts.matyastemplom. Its revolving exhibitions by local artists are dramatically displayed around the covered courtyard of this former townhouse as well as in the side rooms that were once apartments. ★★★ Matthias Church (Mátyás Templom) BUDA Heavenly surroundings and acoustics make for an outstanding classical music experience.

and the great-value opera and ballet is a must. ‘Music in the Garden’ in summer. Map p 127. Budapest Strings. www. Tickets vary. Closed Sun. Örökmozgó (Erzsébet körút 39. Both the mall and arthouse types of mozi (cinema) show plenty of films in English. Metro: M1 to Mexikói út. bullet 3. and sadly wasn’t in place to Movie Marvels While the shopping mall cinemas are comfy and kitted out with state-of-the-art movie technology—Arena Plaza (see p 78) even has a VIP area—Budapest is also home to some cool art-house cinemas and handsome old relics from the golden age of cinema.hu. y 1/486-3413) has been restored to its fin-de-siècle splendor and has viewing boxes that make for a special experience. the Opera House is desperate to replace the creaking East German stage and concrete pit to restore the once-outstanding acoustics. Dance ★★ National Dance Theatre BUDA Ballet. new and not so new. Industrial cool bar in the engine room and swanky restaurant top deck. She still looks beautiful though. www. a38. y 1/250-0288. Tram: 4/6 to Petófi híd. Map p 128. ★★★ Opera House PEST At the cutting edge when it was opened by Franz Joseph I in 1884. y 1/ 269-1915) are seriously offbeat while the Moorish-influenced Uránia (Rákóczi út 21. and contemporary dance on tap in this handsome theater. Map p 127. (See p 8. Tickets vary. to give this huge spaceship-like building its full name. Múvész (Teréz körút 30. and Auer String Quartet are regulars at this wonderfully restored enclave of ‘Old Buda’. Live Music ★★★ A38 Ship RIVER DANUBE Local and international acts. y 1/332-6726) screens a wide range of mainly lesscommercial films. budai hídfó. y 1/2014407.133 Arts & Entertainment A to Z Tickets on sale before performance. Tickets vary. Kiskorona utca 7. The weekly Budapest Sun has cinema listings and English language portal Xpatloop. Bus: 16/16A/116 to Dísz tér. itself very much part of the beauty of the Castle District. y 153-0170 for tickets. www. Moored next to Petófi híd (Petófi Bridge). Suburban train: HÉV to Árpád híd. sadly a gatecrasher these days in the realm of high rises.dancetheatre. price varies. www.hu. Budapest Arena PEST The multipurpose Papp László Budapest Sport Arena. Színház utca 1–3.hu. . Metro: M1 to Opera. Map p 127. y 1/464-3940. y 1/342-2167) and Cirko-geyzir (Balassi Bálint utca 15–17. folk. modern. including names as big as John Cale on this very hip Ukrainian ship. replaced an older venue that burnt down. ★★ Óbudai Társakör ÓBUDA The Franz Liszt Chamber Orchestra.hu.com has a search function.opera.obudai tarsaskor. both in terms of design and functionality.) Andrássy út 22.

are high on this slightly cheaplooking floating jazz venue. ★★★ Gödör PEST Weird. Map p 128. Tickets vary. especially on school nights. Map p 128. www. Local gypsy greats Romano Drom are a feature. Plenty of young punk bands strut their stuff for free. However. (See p 48. Tram: 47 to Kalotaszeg utca. Paulay Ede utca 56. Almássy utca 1. but a few tips get them to really go for it. Permanently moored close to Vigadó tér. The multi-purpose Budapest Arena. Map p 128. Map p 128. www. www. Free entry. plus the likes of legendary Creation Records founder Alan McGee who has a residency here with his Death Disco.budapest arena.fono. y 1/206-5300. Free entry. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. ★★★ Fonó Budai Zeneház BUDA Top Hungarian and Transylvanian folk acts on Wednesdays. wonderful. Tickets vary.hu. Metro: M2 to Stadionok. www. but the music makes up for it. y 1/422-2600. y 0630/921-4212. often no cover charge.trafo. Filter Klub PEST Absolutely no filtering of the end product goes on in this raw hard rock hangout.hu. with powerful and unrestrained Csángó. too. a folk style from a Hungarian minority hailing from deepest Romania and Moldavia.hu.) ★★★ Trafó Bár Tangó PEST The cellar club of the truly progressive Trafó unsurprisingly pulls in many budding alternative bands. . Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. ★ Columbus Jazz Club DANUBE This is the place to tap into the local jazz scene. Electric atmosphere and decent rustic cooking. Metro: M3 to Ferenc körút. Tram: 4/6 to Wesselényii utca or Blaha Lujza tér. Erzsébet tér. Gypsy dance classes. y 0620/201-3868. y 1/4562053.hu. Free. PECSA PEST This retro kitsch venue attracts the likes of big lesscommercial stars like Morrissey and Nick Cave. Map p 128. however.godorklub. Sztregova utca 3. Tickets vary. there are plenty of their present-day comtemporaries: fellow stadium rockers Coldplay made it here in fall 2008. Map p 128. y 1/ 266-9013.134 The Best Arts & Entertainment host the likes of Guns ‘n’ Roses in their heyday. Map p 127. Tickets vary. Metro: M2 to Blaha Lujza tér. ★★ Giero PEST Tiny cellar place where Gypsy Jazz musicians meet up to jam and hang out. Tickets vary. Liliom utca 41. Tram: 2 to Vigadó tér. bullet 8. Nice outdoor bit. and varied program of concerts sees all the beats from across the globe sounding in this stylish subterranean setting under Erszebet tér. Tram: 4/6 to Ferenc körút. Prices for drinks.

9 The Best Lodging .

★ Danubius Health Spa Resort Helia $$ Kárpát utca 62–64 (p 141).136 The Best Lodging Lodging Best Bets Best Art Deco Hotel ★★ Andrássy Hotel MaMaison $$–$$$$ Andrassy út 111 (p 140) Best Art Nouveau Hotel ★★★ Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest $$$$–$$$$$ Roosevelt tér 5–6 (p 142) Best Bargain View Citadella Hotel $ Citadella sétány (p 141) Best Boutique Hotel ★★ Zara Boutique Hotel $$–$$$ Só utca 6 (p 144) Best Cheap ‘n’ Cheerful Socialist-era Lodgings Medosz $ Jókai tér 9 (p 144) Best Designer Hotel ★★★ Lánchíd 19 $$–$$$ Lánchíd utca 19–21 (p 143) Best Old World Ambience ★★ Danubius Hotel Astoria $$ Kossuth Lajos utca 19–21 (p 142). Kesely utca 1 (p 144) Best When Money is No Object ★★★ Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest $$$$–$$$$$ Roosevelt tér 5–6 (p 142) . ★★★ Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest $$$$–$$$$$ Roosevelt tér 5–6 (p 142). ★ Ramada Plaza $$–$$$$$ Árpád fejedelem útja 94 (p 144) Best Villa ★Uhu Villa. Best Views ★★ Marriott $$–$$$ Apáczai Csere János utca 4 (Map p 144). ★★ Danubius Hotel Gellért $–$$$ Szent Gellért tér 1 (p 142) The Boscolo New York Palace. ★★★ Corinthia Grand Royal Hotel $$–$$$$ Erzsébet körút 43–49 (p 141) Best Spa Hotels ★★ Danubius Health Spa Resort Margitsziget $$ Margitsziget (Margaret Island) (p 141). ★★ Sofitel Budapest Maria Dorottya $$–$$$$$ Roosevelt tér 2–9 (p 144) Best Restored Old Favorites ★★★ Boscolo New York Palace $$–$$$$$ Erzsébet 9–11 (p 140).

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ku jno u. i u. Országház Kossuth re u. u jós Ná Nádor u. Markó Honvéd u. Október 6. u . a u. su v tvö E Eö Lo va Terror Háza VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA T Te rréz gu . 19 Erzsébet FERENC TÉR Királ Ru Ádám tér mb tér M ach i u. ar . gyógyfürdő Information tér út r 20 Üll Post Office kö ői ú áz t mh M Metro Station Vá . ona Józ sef u. Honvéd u. u. Ha ld u. Vác u u.. Ak Akadémia u rt k par t zéche Széchenyi ra t art só só rakp Budai all t Fő út 0 6.. . é éu Páln es P u i u. edű s Gy ula Vise grád u. Rég Lajo 10 ssuth FERENCIEK Petőfi tér Tabáni M Ko Ferences TERE r u. KOSSUTH M LAJOS TÉR LIPOTVAROS Sz rty d on iu . Istv án kör 5 út Balaton u. Kálmán Im Lajos tér Báthory u. Kla z uz u. Belvárosi plébániatemplom Sándo út templom plébániatemplom Bródy tó Sa j Magyar ad b Petőfi Irodalmi Sza Nemzeti Múzeum Rác Múzeum Erzsébet ál u. i u. M u. . ku Fővám ele Vásárcsarnok H HÉV Station Citadella tér özt K Jubileumi Iparművészeti Szabadság Csarnok Boat Pier park Múzeum híd tér Szt. ln Mo e Ver . Kat Westend City Center d d án i ná d hííd Po icz an dm ky u. József At u. Hold u. Vas u Vácii Puskin u ályi u. Gellért gyógyfürdő . Horá Horánszky u. t rút m kö ú u ru Múze gyar u. 18 Szt. Néprajzi Múzeum Alkotmány u. Szalay u. M OPERA Ernst Arany Jáno Szt.25 km t p par ra k a ó i als t t u a Bud aú tilla At u u. ZSILINSZKY ÚT H Széchenyi tér oll tila u. izs Gellért tér Kin 0 1/4 mi Do bu . Le he lu . u Ak u. Falk M iksa u. S Szt . Szabadság tér Zic hy Je nő u. ffa kác ál u. őu u. u.. út rrú k kö . István . Zoltán u. a Ma 0. u iu k ka Jó y ag Na 17 Ó u. s u. .. B Ba . Bazílíka Múzeum út de u Szt. a ay u Rád G Ge t ra llllér t rt pa kp u yu nya Lóny FERENCVÁROS Bakáts tér . 13 16 sta M ASTORIA i po s u.138 The Best Lodging Pest Lodging Újp esti rakp art Poz son yi ú Holl t án E Tátr mő u. ssy ay E á dr aul István Roosevelt Zrínyi u. ö Vö C Cs n en s rös a ma ab Isa Bajcsy Zsilinszky út Garibaldi u. ív Sz ó Ró a zsa Nyugati u. . t t . Pa n nón ia u Heg . zu tés rté Ke u.. óu DEÁK lánchíd Clark y . An P tér tér 12 Klauzál M BAJCSY Mérleg u. u. c czy K Kazin u. VÖRÖSMARTY ény Kár M 14 15 ny ssel oly TÉR há We kör Do Vörösmarty Nagy út Budavári tér Fővárosi zsinagóga t palota czi ú Rákó BELVÁROS Önkormányzat u. tér NYUGATI M pályaudvar PÁLYAUDVAR TEREZVÁROS Ar ad iu . Síp ó lsó s ia Pest t par rakp Pe en Szentkir o or nd án ii S tőf u. au elll u. fia tér zó S Liszt Ferenc tér örú kö e et é séb E Erz 6 m e ez . Vác i út 7 9 8 LEHEL TÉR M Margitsziget H MARGIT HÍD ÚJLIPÓTVAROS Balz ac u . ARANY M JÁNOS UTCA Operaház Hunyadi Oktogon tér Jókai M OKTOGON u. Kres z Gé za u . Vadász u. e ge u u ry 11 u. gyógyfürdő Ny Döbrentei híd Múzeu 3 KÁLVIN tér M Rudas TÉR Kálvin Baross u. Lehel tér d rd F Fe Margit híd Jászai Mari tér Duna (D anube) Pesti alsó rakpart Balassi B álint u. u u. áry P m u.

Templom u. ch ani mj . Tömő u. s u. M Hopp Ferenc tér di Ara Kelet-Ázsiai Múzeum r o Kodály fas ti körönd Kodály Zoltán ige osl Emlémúzeum M Vár z zsa Dó Gy y y ö örg KODÁLY KÖRÖND ny étá ys rol Ká s Kó n ina m rrm H He ú út x Me t ii ú ikó út ia örút n nc kö F Fra áriia g ng Lövölde tér u. or u bo Gá nG hlle Bet B ef u. József u.. u. or út vo J Já iia u. csi Nép z ghá Dolo u. R Ró plyu lly Rip h há Mii csy ác n nk M Mu . ár u Bethlen Alp Gábor tér u u. ht rhá Cse u. ny há kás u . k ke Fecs u. yu erd Pet Ajt ós iD üre rs or u. ab áz ó á ERZSÉBETVÁROS r And zky rás ins u. Do 4 u. óu nk D Da ú rú u. He IIll u u. Csarnok i nd t . ldi u Alfö u u.. yú Szo Városliget yu s g b ör rás bá Gy BAJZA And éli 1 D ety UTCA m Felvonulási K u... met Ném . a au rsff t czi ú Rákó u. á ffán za Gé Ste hy Zic Hu út a Baj za u. szo Kos Horváth Mihály tér Baross u. mb sef De Józ rek út Ma án Istv . u. urá Mu ád u rná e He Ab on Th Da u. M LUJZA TÉR u. iu na . róra Auró e u. Sz Ch u. Klinikák . Nap u.. Józse i u. er u ille nb tte Rot u u. rédj Blaha Beze Lujza tér 2 József körút Kisfaludy u. Baross tér Keleti pályaudvar Dózsa G yörgy ú t b ébe rzs Erz rút t körú é ség v vet S Szö Kerepesi út BLAHA u.139 Lodging Best Bets SZÉCHENYI M FÜRDŐ Szépmivészeti Múzeum Magyar Hősök Mezőgazdasági tere Múzeum HŐSÖK M Petőfi TERE Műcsarnok u.. Üllő Tızo ltó Nagy y rty ma rös Vö Kisstadion Puskás Ferenc Stadion . út iú me F Fiu Andrássy Hotel MaMaison 1 Atrium Fashion Hotel 2 Best Western Hotel Art 3 Boscolo New York Palace 4 City Panzió Ring 5 Corinthia Grand Royal Hotel 6 Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget 7 Danubius Health Spa Resort Helia 8 Danubius Health Spa Resort Margitsziget 9 Danubius Hotel Astoria 10 Easy Hotel 11 Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace 12 Gerlóczy Rooms Deluxe 13 Kempinski Hotel Corvinus 14 Le Méridien Budapest 15 Marriot 16 Medosz 17 NH Hotel 18 Sofitel Budapest Maria Dorottya 19 Zara Boutique Hotel 20 Köztársaság tér Bérko szính áz u. nyi . Bókay János u. Rákóczi Miksa tér Déri á Há . yi u lén sse We Almássy tér u. r s aro F v y Fu u. Közlekedési Múzeum t t aú ina u erm ka u. zsa a R Ró ellla u b b Isa Országos Földtani Múzeum .. a Nag f u. Leonardo da Vinci u. só Bacsó Kun V Vig u. ály Kir Jós ika u. . s . Do bu . ök oly yi út u. JÓZSEFVÁROS Práter u. Vajdahunnyad u.Gara plébániatemplom Mun KELETI M PÁLYAUDVAR Ne e felle jcs Th ly ú öko t Verseny u. .. ély Erd i u. Rózsák yu tére Szt.. hely Mátyás zerda tér S u u. Erzsébet. Béla u... i út u. u. M KÖRÚT FERENC Szigony u. Futó u.

bwhotelart. www. Metro: M3 to Batthány tér. = Beatrix Panzió BUDA Clean and simple with a bit of a 70s retro hangover. www. DC. ★ Art’otel BUDA Chic with a lovely Buda riverside setting plus easy access to the Castle District and Pest. and great views to the Chain Bridge and Parliament. 164 units. Doubles 60–100  w/breakfast. DC. AE. Andrássy út 111.com.hu. The neighborhood is not the most salubrious but it is lively and central. Metro: M1 to Bajza utca or H_sök tere. 32 units. Doubles 108–135  w/breakfast.140 The Best Lodging Budapest Lodging A to Z ★★ Andrássy Hotel MaMaison PEST Stylish Art Deco hotel w/breakfast. y 1/266-2170.com. ★ Atrium Fashion Hotel PEST ‘Fashion hotel’ with a striking central atrium and minimalist bijou rooms. Close to Heroes Square and houses fusion cuisine benchmark Baraka (see p 103). with all the mod cons and designer furniture to match. AE. MC. V. Tram: 18/56 to Kelemen László utca. Map p 137. Also houses the legendary New York Coffee . MC.artotel. 57 units. ous from the moment you walk in to the modern but classically influenced Italianate lobby. DC. Map p 138. y 1/462-2100. No credit cards. 22 units. Art by Donald Sultan.atriumhotel budapest. Bem rakpart 16–19. MC. Map p 137.andrassyhotel. Map p 138. AE. AE. Map p 138. y 1/299-0777. Beatrix has a relaxing homely atmosphere. Metro: M3 to Blaha Lujza tér. www. Király Pál utca 12. y 1/2750550. Self-catering ‘Mediterranean’ apartments are also available. V. DC. Széher út 3. V. 70 units.beatrixhotel. ★ Best Western Hotel Art PEST Tucked away in a charming and laidback narrow street just a step away from the action. www. V.hu. Doubles 90–180  w/breakfast. the Art Deco columns recall this building’s arty past while the modern rooms are spotless. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér. MC. Doubles 105–395 . www. ★★★ Boscolo New York Palace PEST Seriously sumptu- y 1/487-9487. Csokonai utca 14. Breakfast 20 .hu. Doubles 198–318  The sumptuous Boscolo New York Palace.

www.hu.taverna. Map p 138. V.com/helia. Map p 138. y 1/340-5450 or 1/340-4884. AE. Metro: M2 to Batthány tér. guests can take advantage of the spa and wellness facilities. Doubles 169–509  w/breakfast. awesome atrium. y 1/889-5800. 164 units. 414 units. Erzsébet körút 9–11. MC. This handsome old-world riverside building is handily connected to the spa and sporting facilities of its sportier-looking Margaret Island twin by tunnel. y 1/224-0999. Bus: 26 to Szállodák (Hotels). V. Metro: M2 to Nyugati pu. Immaculate but smallish rooms. V. www. 262 units. Doubles 155  without breakfast/350  w/breakfast.danubiusgroup. Erzsébet körút 43–49. Breakfast 5 . Doubles 137–180  w/breakfast. restored Habsburg period façade lies a seriously swish interior that brilliantly combines the best of old and new. 107 units. ★ Danubius Health Spa Resort Helia PEST A particularly ★★★ Corinthia Grand Royal Hotel PEST Behind the beautifully good option for business travelers and conference planners where. Metro: M3 Blaha Lujza tér. Citadella sétány. y 1/466-5794. Map p 137. 95 units. and spa facilities are a treat. The swanky rooms. Margitsziget. reasonably priced. DC. ★★ Danubius Health Spa Resort Margitsziget MARGARET ISLAND Outstanding spa utilizing leafy Margaret Island’s three thermal springs and top wellness facilities with classically furnished rooms . and on major Pest thoroughfare close to Margaret Island. 12 units. MC.corinthiahotels. y 1/889-4752. 39 units. Metro: M1 to Oktogon. V. A bit noisy overlooking the street but brighter than the facing courtyard. www. www.141 Budapest Lodging A to Z House (see p 35). Doubles 85–110  w/breakfast. AE. ★ Carlton Budapest CASTLE DISTRICT Great location on a steep quiet street at the foot of the Castle District close to the Danube and Chain Bridge. Map p 137. DC. boscolohotels.hu.carltonhotel. DC. www. Map p 138. DC. MC.com.citadella. Map p 138.com/grandhotel.hu. y 1/479-4000. V. Tram: 4/6 to Nyugati pu. corinthia. Szent István körút 22. y 1/886-6111. AE. MC. AE. Citadella Hotel BUDA Basic hotel with five-star views over the river to most of Pest and much of Buda from where the Austrian occupiers used to keep watch over the Magyars below. Old world charm at Danubius Hotel Astoria. Apor Péter utca 3. Doubles 46–51  without breakfast.danubius group. Bus: 27 to Búsuló Juhász (Citadella). AE. comfortable. Doubles 76  w/breakfast. Metro: M3 to Dózsa György út. Doubles 104–214  w/breakfast.hu. MC. MC. V. www. after a long day. grand ballroom. Kárpát utca 62–64. DC. Map p 138. com. www. www. AE. ★★ Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget MARGARET ISLAND City Panzió Ring PEST Clean.

y 1/889-6000. Map p 138. rooms in downtown Pest. MC. Doubles 118–178  without breakfast. 47. Easy Hotel PEST Bargain prices for clean.com/astoria. AE. Clean and comfortable with plenty of marble. 234 units.com. Pay over the internet with all major credit cards. com/budapest. The rooms keep an elegant but not over-stated Art Nouveau style. Good choice for stag/ hen weekends. Szent Gellért tér 1. Map p 138. 49 to Szent Gellért tér. Kossuth Lajos utca 19–21. breakfasts and spa. DC. V. Bus: 26 to Szállodák (Hotels). danubiushotels.com/gellert. Doubles 90–214  w/breakfast. www. MC. 267 units. Map p 137. y 1/889-5501. and stainedglass windows. AE. Seriously eclectic. 19. this is the place to splash out. DC. Eötvös utca 25/a. 135 units. ★★★ Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest PEST Looking right onto the splendor of the Chain Bridge and with its stunningly restored Art Nouveau interior and rooms. V. V. elaborate carpets. MC. MC. Margitsziget. Book online in the same way as budget air tickets whereby the cheaper rooms sell out first. crystal chandeliers. Doubles 70–240 . Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest. y 1/889-4700. Doubles 290–410  w/breakfast.easyhotel. www. outstanding service. Roosevelt tér 5–6. AE. 59 units. Doubles 29– 50  without breakfast. V. www. DC. danubiusgroup. Metro: M3 to Astoria. albeit orange. www.com/margitsziget. Tram: 2 .142 The Best Lodging Elegant décor at Gerlóczy Rooms Deluxe.fourseasons. danubiusgroup. Tram: 18. www. Tram: 4 or 6 to Oktogon. in this now not so modern hotel. myriad mirrors. y 268 6000. AE. ★★ Danubius Hotel Astoria PEST Bastion of old-world charm in a very central location. Map p 138. ★★ Danubius Hotel Gellért BUDA If you don’t demand modern luxuries like air conditioning and free WiFi but value a unique lived-in atmosphere then this could be your place.

★★ Gerlóczy Rooms Deluxe PEST Immaculate rooms elegantly furnished and true to the style of this charming 1892 building. Vám utca 6. Doubles 162–240 . It overlooks a charming and less discovered square. hotels. No credit cards.hu. Doubles 99–112 . Tram: 19 to Clark Ádám tér.le meridien-budapest. ★ Hotel Panda BUDA Clean. lie in the bath. www. this Socialist-era hotel overlooks Bauhaus Pasaréti tér and has a forward-thinking policy of employing disabled people. Breakfast 10 . Metro: M2 to Batthyány tér. AE. 12 units. y 1/214-1906.hu. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér.hu. Map p 138. M3 to Deák tér. Map p 138. www. Although starting to look a bit dated you can find some competitive prices by booking ahead. Lánchíd utca 19–21. Splash out on a suite.lanchid19hotel. y 1/429-5500. Map p 138. and colorful after a recent renovation. Doubles 70–100  w/breakfast. Le Bourbon. Bus: 5 to Pasaréti tér. MC. 29 units. Metro: M1. Gerlóczy utca 1. Doubles from 239 . y 1/4191900. Kempinski Hotel Corvinus. ★★ Kempinski Hotel Corvinus PEST The King of Budapest’s luxury Luxurious suite at the Lánchid 19 design hotel. Map p 137.143 Budapest Lodging A to Z to Roosevelt tér. until the Gresham Four Seasons and Corinthia Grand Royal came along to challenge its crown. Erzsébet tér 9–10. MC.com. www. this classy and central hotel is big boutique rather than big chain and has a top French restaurant. and watch the Danube flow by. Nice spa facilities.com. www. which also houses the excellent Gerlóczy coffee house.kempinski-budapest. Doubles 129–299  without breakfast. spacious.hu/roomsdelux/. Pasaréti út 133. MC.budapesthotelpanda. AE. gerloczy. MC. Map p 137. Doubles 85  without breakfast. Spa facilities. DC. 218 units. ★★★ Lánchíd 19 BUDA Seriously chic designer hotel with close attention paid to detail and each room decorated with its own unique arty touches. 48 units. Map p 138. y 1/3941932. 366 units. Erzsébet tér 7–8. AE. V. V. www. ★★ Le Méridien Budapest PEST A deceptive river vista on its website taken in Buda aside. . DC. V. with an atmosphere that many guests say makes them feel at home. Map p 137. ★ Hotel Astra BUDA Spacious rooms with antique furniture in a restored 300-year-old house. Bus: 16 to Roosevelt tér. y 1/501-4000. y 1/429 3777. Metro: M1/M2/M3 to Deák tér. V.hotel astra. Breakfast 25 . Spotlessly clean and comfortable. 15 units. MC. M2. www. V. AE.

MC.hu. y 1/486 5000. 67 units. Map p 138. the oldest theater in Budapest. AE. www.com. y 1/436-4100. Tram: 4/6 to Oktogon. clean and comfortable. Suburban railway: HÉV to Árpád híd. MC. Árpád fejedelem útja 94. . 2. Map p 138. www. DC. Vígszínház utca 3. excluding taxes and breakfast. AE. Map p 137. www. Map p 138. MC. www. AE. has transformed the interior with expertly applied modern touches including a funky airplane in the striking lobby. Excellent thermal and wellness facilities on the site where the Romans once bathed.marriott. Map p 138. 10 minutes on foot from the nearest tram stop. Apáczai Csere János utca 4. Uhu offers peace and quiet within the city limits. com. 364 units.144 The Best Lodging ★★ Marriott PEST Recently renovated from top to bottom with rooms kitted out with the mega-comfy Marriott Revive Bedding and views over the river to the Buda Palace to die for. Surrounded by Pest nightlife. 74 units.zarahotels. ★ Ramada Plaza ÓBUDA Luxury choice for business or pleasure on the banks of the Danube in Óbuda over the water from Margaret Island. Map p 138. the French hotel group ★★ Zara Boutique Hotel Minimalism nicely executed with no expense spared on furnishings. y 1/374-3000. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér. y 1/357-6170.com. V. 12 units.sofitel. V. 94–350  double.uhuvilla. 119–225 .000  w/breakfast. Top Danube views. AE. 350 units.500  suite. DC. y 1/275-1002. V. V.hu. ★★ NH Hotel PEST Stylish and exceedingly modern hotel tastefully tucked away behind the Vígszínház. MC. medoszhotel. Most love it but a few gripe about its hilltop location. Só utca 6. MC. DC. Tram: 2 to Vigadó tér.com. www. MC. Great breakfast. MC. Tram: 18/56 to Akadémia. excluding taxes and breakfast. Accor couldn’t change the Socialistera exterior. www. Metro: M1 to Vörösmarty tér. Metro: M1 to Okogon. 182 units. Zara is a cool option in this enjoyable part of downtown Pest. AE. and just the place for someone looking to sleep behind the original ‘iron curtain’. ★★ Sofitel Budapest Maria Dorottya PEST While new owner ★ Uhu Villa BUDA Cozy. y 1/814-0000. friendly. y 1/2661234. DC.nh-hotels. Kesely utca 1/a. Metro: M2 Nuygati. well priced. Medosz PEST The building could be considered a Socialist period monstrosity but it’s ideally located in downtown Pest. Uhu Villa offers a quiet retreat within the city limits. Rooms from 49 . Jókai tér 9. Doubles 99–196  without breakfast. V. 120–2. Doubles 49–65  w/breakfast. and tastefully decorated with its own swimming pool. Drink Bling deluxe water in the AQVA Lounge Bar. Metro: M3 to Kálvin tér. V . Doubles 105–230  w/breakfast. AE. Map p 138. Roosevelt tér 2. V.

1 0 The Best Day Trips & Excursions .

Road Number i út grád Vise Vác c 11 i út Dunabogdány Visegrád 3 Esztergom 2 i út T at 2A ric Mo 111 The Danube Bend nd út z Zsigmo Dorog 117 Kesztölc Göd Szentendre 1 Kiscsévpuszta Leányvár 2 Fö Fö út Örbottyán 10 Piliscsév Veresegyház 11 1 Be s Piliscsaba Csobánka Pomáz Szentendre t ci ú Pilisvörösvar Budakalász Dunakeszi 2 3 Visegrád Esztergom .146 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 0 0 4 km 4 mi 12 Árpá d Duna (Danube) 11 2 Szob Kosd Vác 11 Szt. Lászlo út 12 u.

3 ★★★ Esztergom. Szentendre Tourist Information Office. @ 3–4 hr. The town is well on the tourist radar and attracts large numbers of visitors on a yearly basis. From Szentendre it’s 22km/13. there’s no shortage of opportunities to have fun. 2 ★★★ Visegrád. each of which I describe here. y 26/317-965. Szentendre packs in the most history and color. www. Last stop on HÉV suburban train that starts at Batthány tér (approx. but a more manageable approach might involve Szentendre on one day and Visegrád and Esztergom together on another. @ 1⁄2–1 day. www. Dumtsa J. especially the Serbs who settled in the town en masse in the 17th century. Bus: from Visegrád. narrow streets. which along with the lower castle was originally built by Béla IV in the 13th century to keep out the Mongols. Danube is a must and a look at the Belgrade Orthodox Church. I like walking around the beautiful cobbled Baroque main streets that run off the main square and then losing the tourist hordes by exploring the steep. Esztergom has a remarkable number of bars. O 1 ★★★ Szentendre. The inhabitants of Szentendre are well used to this. Climb up the hill and stare over to Slovakia or walk over the bridge and enjoy some fine Slovakian draught beer. START: Batthány tér to take HÉV suburban train to Szentendre. and in this easy-going riverside border town. Of all the easy short hops from Budapest. 40 min). or Pest’s Nuygati station for Esztergom. szentendre. utca 22. see all three in one day. with its adjoining Serbian Orthodox Museum.5 miles by road to Visegrad from where it’s another 24km/15 miles to Esztergom.visegrad. The biggest church in Hungary is situated on St. Bus: from Szentendre or Árpád híd bus station in Pest. . Train: direct from Pest’s Nyugati station. Also. You could. or Árpád híd bus station in Pest for Visegrád. indeed. like most frontier posts.147 The Danube Bend ne of the prettiest stretches of the entire length of the Danube is blessed with three towns steeped in history. The Royal Palace dates from the 14th century when Charles Robert of Anjou moved the Royal Court here. however. a walk along the The colourful town of Szentendre. is a poignant reminder of Hungary’s neighbors’ influence on the town. Thomas Hill.extra. @ 3–4 hr. foreigners were flocking here centuries before the age of mass tourism. Though the center of the Hungarian Catholic Church. at a push.hu.hu. The smallest town in Hungary is towered over by an imposing medieval citadel. opposite what must be one of Hungary’s smallest.

148 The Best Day Trips & Excursions UKRAINE 7 0 50 mi 0 50 km SLOVAKIA Miskolc 1 Tokaj AUSTRIA Debrecen Eger Györ BUDAPEST Szolnok 4 Tatabánya 2 6 Du na (Danube) Veszprém HUNGARY ROMANIA Békéscsaba 1 2 3 4 5 6 Zalaegerszeg 3 Lake Balaton Kecskemét Tisz sa A Wine Country Detour Eger Etyek Lake Balaton Pannonhalma Szekszárd Somló 7 SLOVENIA Drava Kaposvar Szekszárd 5 CROATIA Pécs Wine Region 8 SERBIA Tokaj 8 Villány .

START: All regions can also be reached by train or bus (check www. 2 Etyek. it is no wonder that Pinot Noir features seriously. The region famous for the generally lowly reputed mass-market Bull’s Blood now has Bikavér Superior. a good region for whites––Monarchia winery (Verószala u.elvira. The increasingly sophisticated Central European indigenous grape Kékfrankos forms the backbone of most Bikavér. especially since Hungary has a zero-tolerance alcohol policy and a car is the most convenient mode of transport.hu and www. www. y 0670/452-2626.volanbusz. as the beauty of Eger reds is their balance and finesse. Wine growing around Lake Balaton. but it’s probably still best to call them beforehand. Also.monarchiawinery. a more refined. 66. With the climate comparable to Burgundy.149 A Wine Country Detour H ungary’s wines are one of its best-kept secrets and its wine regions are an engaging blend of rustic charm and stateof-the-art new wineries. 1 ★★★ Eger. You can increasingly turn up at wineries without invitation. limited-yield version of the classic blend. While you can reach anywhere in Hungary and get back the same day. taking E71/M3 then exit 114 and road 33. as its flagship. it is worth staying over at most of its wine regions. 140km/87 miles east of Budapest on E71/M3. Up on Öreg hegy. Etyek makes for a nice excursion in itself but its crispy whites are all the more reason to make the short 30km trip from Budapest for. It has also pioneered red wine in the .hu respectively for timetables). but don’t expect blockbusting fullbodied reds. Etyeki Kúria (y 0630/9225-261) has mastered reductive fruity style Pinot Gris but also look out for its rustically elegant Királyleányka and delicious Sauvignon Blanc.com) even lets you blend your own Bikavér.

whose wines are all good value in a region where the 7 ★★★ Tokaj. Szekszárd is also doing well in international competitions with Bordeaux blends. 5 ★★ Szekszárd. 133km/82. Sometimes. Take E73. 180km/112 miles south of Budapest. Tokaj has the world’s oldest wine classification system and its sumptuous elixirs were once the favorites of European royalty. y 96/570-171. y 0620/440-6666. Take E71 / M7 until exit 64 and connect with the E66 / 8 and head in the direction of and then past Veszprém to Somlóvásárhely where you will see Somló Hill. The black volcanic basalt ‘organ pipes’ that rise up at Badacsony set the tone for the area’s predominantly white mineral-infused wines.hu). Even Britain’s Queen Victoria loved it. and the Wine of Kings’. Vár 1. The UNESCO-listed monastery is well worth visiting in its own right and has its own state-of-the-art gravity-fed winery making very promising Tramini. Near the town of Gyór.apatsagipinceszet. exiting at Biatorbágy. 6 ★★★ Somló. Unlike in Villány. Sun King Louis XIV dubbed Tokaji Aszú the ‘King of Wines. I suggest visiting the Kreinbacher winery (y 88/506-212).65 miles west of Budapest on E60/M1. Saint Orbán Wine House Restaurant at Kisfaludy S.com. However.bodribor. The region is also privileged with unique volcanic soils and a distinct portfolio of grapes in the form of Furmint and Hárslevelú. The red Kadarka grape is a local specialty and can make delicious light but spicy reds. Rapidly emerging from the big red shadow cast by Villány. which has succeeded in making more polished. The mist that rises here enables ‘noble rot’ that concentrates the sweetness of wine.5 miles west of Budapest on E60/ M1–82. and a blockbusting fruit bomb of a red called Infusio. wineries are far apart.150 The Best Day Trips & Excursions region with its Pinot Noir that won the Best Pinot gong at 2008’s Pannon National Wine Contest. Hungary’s smallest wine region is known for its fiery and spicy white wine. 3 Lake Balaton. better balanced and fruitier wines that still have plenty of Somló. however. Since the fall of Communism. y 87/431-382. www. 4 Pannonhalma. Szeremley wines put Badacsony on the path to renown and there is an excellent restaurant with sweeping views of the lake. Hungary’s one undeniably worldclass region is blessed with its position at the confluence of the Bodrog and Tisza rivers. M7 to Balaton. www. Pinot Noir. 164km/102 miles west of Budapest.szeremley. the Benedictine Monastery of Pannonhalma (Pannonhalma. The shores and environs of the ‘Hungarian Sea’ present the Hungarian wine world in microcosm.hu) is situated strikingly above a quant village. investment has piled in from those who know just . prices of some of the best-known wines have become inflated. the wines are just too rough and acidic with too much mineral power. One of its finest proponents is the upcoming Bodri cellar (Vitéz utca 1. Riesling. it’s the winemaking that’s happening now that makes this region so special. 30km/18. utca 5 in Badacsony. especially when she heard about the propensity for women who imbibed wines made from Somló grape Juhfark (Sheep Tail) to mother male offspring. www.

y 72 492-839.8 miles northeast of Budapest. 234km/145. on and around the high street.hu plus a cozy guesthouse in the village center at Diófás tér 4. when made in the modern style. While Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are good here. The problem for Tokaj now is that sweet wine isn’t the flavor of modern times. Take E71/M3— E71–E71/M30—E71/3 and take junction 37 to enter the region. y 72 492-195.disznoko. Yet the taste of one of these sublime elixirs.151 A Wine Country Detour how good this terroir is. and one of the best. 8 ★★★ Villány. Disznókó (at Mezózombor. www. .gere. it’s the lesser-known Bordeaux varietal Cabernet Franc that seems most at home and capable of unique expression. y 47/569410. the Mád-Tarcal junction of the 37 road. both at home and to a certain Villány. www. passing it and later taking road 57. less intense lateharvest styles and bone dry Furmints are gaining ground. Attila Gere whose blockbusting Bordeaux-style reds helped put Hungary’s leading red wine region in the spotlight. Most of Villány’s wineries can be accessed on foot. rather than overt sweetness. has a large modern winery and visitor center at Erkel Ferenc utca 2/A. As it’s a sign of the investment flowing into Villány that the Wunderlich winery (opposite the Gere winery) wouldn’t look out of place in California— thankfully the winemaker is capable of making wines to match the grand ambition. Take the same direction as Szekszárd. emphasizes freshness and sumptuous acidity. Tokaj town is 233km/144.5 miles south of Budapest. Hungary’s leading red wine region.hu) is one of the easiest to visit. Also. as well as the first you’ll encounter coming in from Budapest. Local grape Portugieser makes enjoyable easy-drinking reds. extent abroad.

152 The Best Day Trips & Excursions Veszprém 72 0 8 mi Úrkút Nemesvámos Kövesgyüpuszta Balatonalmádi 73 Papkeszi Küngös Balatonakarattya 0 8 km Padragkút Szabadság Puszta 71 Road Number Halimba Nagyvázsony 1 Nyirád Lovas Balatonfüred Ocs Balatonvilágos 7 Lake Balaton Ódörögd Dörgicse 71 2 Kapolcs Sóstó Tihány 4 Uzsa Balatonakali Balaton 84 Hegyesd Siófok M7 Tapolca Balatonföldyár Balatonszemes 7 Szentbékkálla Zánka Balatonszabadi Töreki 65 Rezi Nemesvita Raposka Nemesgulács Káptalantóti Révfülöp Ságvár Kereki Som Lulla Bótapuszta Kapoly 1 2 Badacsonytomaj Balatonboglár Szölöskislak Somogytúr Karád 71 Badacsony Nagyberény Bábonymegyer Balatonfüred Tihany 3 4 3 Keszthely Pusztaszemes 71 Fonyód Balatonmáriafürdö 7 M7 Csisztapuszta Keszthely Siófok Lengyeltóti .

T 1 ★★ Balatonfüred. This is the undisputed party capital of Balaton. The abode of charitable counts. y 83/314-144. which makes the water warm. Kisfaludy utca 1. . www. Kossuth utca 20. He also founded the still-functioning Abbey. buried here in 1060. tihany.keszthely. stopping for some deepfried fish.elvira. Kossuth utca 28. Lake Balaton.hu. y 84/315-355. Keszthely Tourist Information Office. Keszthely is home to the Festetics Palace.com. A rare pearl of Baroque beauty after countless repetitive resorts.5 miles from Balatonfüred. y 87/580-480. www. Tihany Tourist Information Office. Siófok Tourist Information Office. These contrasting towns will give you an essence of Balaton and are best enjoyed over a few days touring. Hungary’s very first King of that name. www. Accessible from Budapest by Inter City trains it takes around two hours and much less by car if you drive as fast as a Hungarian. www. they built a hospital and the world’s first agricultural university.hu. START: The east tip of Balaton and all of these destinations can be reached in as little as an hour by car from Budapest on the M7 highway and most places here can be reached within two hours but allow extra time in peak periods. at least in parts. The narrowest point of the lake is topped off by the epic twin-towered Benedictine Abbey that hangs dramatically over the lake. The biggest resort town on the northern shore has an elegant old-world-cumbest-of-Communism feel. It features an eerie crypt where you can read the engravings on the tomb of András. y 87/448-804. but it also has some pleasant beaches away from the action. 4 Siófok. The water is deeper here on the northern side and better suited to serious swimming. This pretty peninsula town is just 4km/2.balatonfured. Víztorony (Water Tower). the latter now being part of the University of Pannonia. 3 ★★★ Keszthely. which is surviving well alongside the modern hotel developments. I enjoy walking around the waterfront. Trains depart regularly from Budapest’s Déli station (for an interactive timetable go to www.hu). 2 ★★★ Tihany. The southern side has a very shallow shelf around waist height.hu.153 Lake Balaton he oft dubbed ‘Hungarian Sea’ is circled by a range of varied attractions and is much more than a place to go sailing with the in crowd or bask on its banks. Balatonfüred Tourist Information Office.siofoktourism.

György u.125 km ári Ka Kaposv 0 h th K ál á án m á á s IIstv 6 út út u. 1 2 Széchenyi tér Early Christian Cemetery Pécs Cathedral Csontváry Museum Zsolnay Museum TV Tower Nagy Lajos király útja 3 4 5 6 . ác á c u. Szendrey Jull u iia u. Rak ócz i út Graz tér Föposta tér baság Szabaság út ú Rakóczi t zky y Zsilins Bajcsy Z Rét u. u u. ván István u. 3 u talan Káp . 1 Széchenyi tér esek utcájá József Attila u. Dischka Gyözö u. Jókai Mór tér a Irgalm ly u. ssy Ign Janus Pannonius u. u u. Papn u.154 The Best Day Trips & Excursions Pécs i Mik Surany út los zá Miiks 0 1/8 mi 0. k ku Mecse Hunyadi J rt ertalan y ly B éke Szé u. rt Bartó Gebauer áno su Pét . rtanúk Aradi vé útja 5 ovelde u. . Szt. yörg Klimo György Apáca u. u u. au Kálvária u.. er u. István tér 2 4 Maria u. u. os u Vilmos u. Miklós u.. Erno u. nu u Antónia . Mátyás kirá s u. i Mikló Zriny á cájjá ok u t asok Jokai Mor u. Ferenc Kórház tér Vára Várady An tal u.. d yadii J H Hun Barbakán tér Me e gy Dóm tér e Szepe su ános u . ela kB Nyíl u.

P 1 = ★★★ Széchenyi tér. Hike up the 537m-high Misina peak and take the lift up to the 75m lookout tower that stands on top of it for breathtaking views. This sloping and striking old town central square displays in its architecture some of the most significant periods in the city’s history. Open 9am–9/10pm in season. @ 45 min. The tiles that adorn many of Budapest’s finest buildings like St. If you’re a fan then don’t miss the collection at this museum. @ 45 min. Matthias Church (see p 62) and the Applied Arts Museum (see p 15) hail from Pécs. 2 ★★★ Early Christian Cemetery. Dóm tér. Csontváry is my favorite of Hungarian artists. Below it there’s a Baroque holy statue.155 Pécs écs is often touted as the Hungarian town with a mellow Mediterranean vibe. A day trip to this joint European City of Culture (2010) can be enjoyed on foot with all the attractions within close proximity to each other. @ 2 hr. 5 ★★ Zsolnay Museum. Its glass-walled café will transport you back to a 1970s spy movie. Impressive neo-Romanesque cathedral with four spires and elaborate frescoes from local and international artists throughout. 4 ★★★ Csontváry Museum. particularly for his originality and ability to breathe new life into tired themes. ★ TV Tower. A short walk away. y 72/513-030. Ft 600. Szent István tér. Káptalan utca 2. this UNESCO-listed series of 4th-century The town Hall on Széchenyi tér. 3 ★★ Pécs Cathedral. plus Baroque buildings all around. Széchenyi tér. Misina tetó. and a remarkable Art Nouveau Zsolnay fountain. but you can also feel an influence from the Eastern Mediterranean Muslim world. 6 y 72/336-900. underground burial chambers features lavish murals depicting Christian themes and memorial chapels above ground. @ 45 min. @ 1 hr. y 72/ 514-040. except for the TV Tower. The Church of Saint Mary in Turkish times was the Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kasim and still has a praying niche toward Mecca. Janus Pannonius utca 11. @ 45 min. y 72/ 310-554. Budapest then head to Széchenyi tér. This comprehensive collection of his works is housed in a lovely museum. All that’s missing really is the sea. . START: Train from Déli pályaudvar (Southern train station).

zic hK áro Bástya u. Érs ek s u. F Feren Tan c csic s sM Kirá ly u .25 km 1/4 mi -sz Arn ala u. Dr. Bartalos u. Kisasszony u. e Sze Törvényház u. más ki Ta Boly á ár mv em Mihál y u. Nagy János u. pa su . Malo a u. Mári Te t u. Ba l 3 Kis völ gy u. a Ka u. h ihá Érsek kert s ly s étá n ny Ká ro o Ko há Pál u . gy ar ark Barkóc u zy u. 0 0 0. á án . u u.. a u. e en u cu . u. 5 Kök út ú t iú ló k Sza t sm Vorösmar ál ty Mihál y u. sey Vec árd yi Géza Gárdonu. u vol gy u. agy u ly u . Vorösmerty Mihály u.. ly u . SANC Dobó tér 2 Rózsa Károly u. 4 5 6 . Ve ro Ráckapu tér Szechenyi Istvan u. sv ru IIst or ry nd Ná iN n ny r rké de Hadn e De ák F Fer . i u. Sertekapu u.. Do KÁROLYVÁROS Bartakovics u.. a tvan u. su v rva Da Bá assa lint u. Vitkovics CIFRAHÓSTYA sey Véc Kn é Sándor u. Ka Árpá d u. 6 té tér a an IIstv na ton 1 Csiky Sándor u. Szvoreny rty Mihály u. Gerinc u. u.. m u. yörg ka G Klap k Deák u c u. 4 th ssu Ko L s ajo u. yék -sz ala u.156 The Best Day Trips & Excursions Eger rt rt u pa ap zl Sza . HATVANIHÓSTYA 1 2 3 Eger Castle Dobó tér Minaret Eger Cathedral Eger’s Thermal Baths Egerszalók Thermal Resort Koszo rú u . stvá bó I n u. . áno ny J Ara Szv ore n yi u . Dózsa György tér m Allm hn che Szec y yii Is IIs ey kcs Me t tó rran pe ny zp n E é Es sétá nu tván. Eszternházy tér y u.

y (06) 36/517-715. except the Egerszalók thermal bathing complex. For more information contact the Eger Tourist Information Office at Bajcsy-Zsilinsky utca 9. Consisting of just 2. the author of The Stars of Eger. closing 7pm in Sep. also known as the ‘Eclipse of the Crescent Moon’. is an iconic symbol of Hungarian defiance when the ‘Stars of Eger’ successfully repelled a mammoth Turkish force in 1552. Knézich utca 1. the River Eger and has the Castle rising above it. as with so many squares in Hungary. You’ll also find the tomb of Géza Gárdony. after Budapest fell in the 1540s. together with its castle. Budapest then head to Eger Castle. Eger rebuilt itself at the height of the Baroque period and the result is stunning. are within close proximity of each other. and so ensued a 91-year period of Ottoman rule. The effects of the wine wore off by 1596 as Eger Castle fell. However. which depicts the events of 1552. START: Train from Keleti pályaudvar (East- ern railway station). 4 = ★★ Eger Cathedral. Mar and earlier in off-season (5pm Nov 1–Feb 28). Admission Ft 200. 3 ★★ Minaret. @ 1 hr. the brave defenders of Eger Castle were fuelled by Bulls Blood. In this case it’s more of a Baroque ball. 1 = ★★★ Eger Castle. y 36/ 312-450. This minaret is a pointy reminder of Eger’s Ottoman occupation. making for a sensational walking tour. It’s home to the biggest church organ in 2 ★★ Dobó tér. during the five-week siege in 1552. Ft 600 excluding museum. Eger’s red wine.200 inc. Open from Apr 1 to Oct 31. Scale the twisting staircase of 100 steps for panoramic views of the town.000 Magyars. It was once one of many but is the only one to have survived. as well as a dungeon. Every day 8am–8pm May 1 to Aug 31. albeit with no mosque attached. @ 45 min. museum. and the impostor comes in the form of the mini shopping center opposite the handsome dual-spired Minorita Church. According to legend.157 Eger E ger. Dobó tér. when the Ottomans were safely dispatched back to Istanbul after 91 years in 1687. and as such is the northernmost surviving monument from the Turkish invasion. Although the Turks took the town 44 years later in 1596 eventually. neo-classical cathedral (1836) is notable for the army of Christian statues towering above the columns at the entrance and its three cupolas. All of the sights on this tour. @ 45 min. Admission Ft 1. a Socialist-era monstrosity steps in to spoil the party. The Turks apparently thought the heroic Hungarians were imbibing the real blood of bulls. Meet the stars of the battle in the István Dobó Museum within the Castle grounds. this József Hild-designed. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. This is particularly evident in and around this central square that is divided in two by the trickle that is = . To this day Eger is a remarkably well-preserved tour de force in Baroque architecture. they held off Ottoman forces 40 times their size. Seat of Eger’s bishopric and the second biggest church in Hungary. and led by István Dobó.

5 = ★★★ Eger’s Thermal Baths. 10am–6pm Mon– Thurs. There’s even a thermal pond with a waterfall that you can take a plunge in. The resort is built around the incredible natural feature of a white limestone and travertine hill that rises dramatically out of Hungary’s green northern uplands. Admission Ft 1. @ 45 min. Entrance from the Archbishop’s Garden—throughout the year. modern bathing complex is home to 17 indoor and outdoor pools.hu. www. a water castle and slides for the kids plus restaurant and cocktail bar. Petófi tér 2.250. whose magnificent and earth-shattering tones can be heard at regular summer concerts or during services. Just 6km/3. 9am– 7pm Oct 1–Apr 30.400). and Saturday from 7pm to 11pm. 8:30am–7pm May 1–Sep 30. this wonderful .hu. Admission Ft 1.eger termal. Egerszalók. Hungary. A vast bathing complex where you can spend long summer days without getting in the least bit bored. as well as pools. Friday. • Eger Cathedral. Lido open every evening until 1am in summer. a ‘Wellness House’. Everything’s there from a 50m/164ft swimming pool to thermal pools that work against arthritis and rheumatism. 10am–8pm Fri–Sun.158 The Best Day Trips & Excursions Eger.egerszalok furdo. The complex is also open for evening bathing every Thursday. 6 = Egerszalók Thermal Resort. y 36/688-500. entrance from Petófi tér in summer. www. Forrás út 4.7 miles outside Eger at Egerszalók. y 36/314-142.200 for 3 hr (deposit Ft 2. Buses heading to Verpelét and Gyöngyös stop in Egerszalók.

The Savvy Traveler .

The Best Time to Go Budapest’s peak season runs from May to September.hu. a bevy of high culture including opera. have a wealth of baths that are a godsend when temperatures soar. The hip arts melting pot of Millenáris is among the main venues (p 131). On the last weekend of the Spring Festival.goto hungary.uk and a 24hour English-language hotline on 00800 36 000 000. Budapest is a good all-year destination and despite its cold winters there are plenty of indoor activities. and shops shut. y: 212/695-1221. . Múzeumok Éjszakája (Night of the Museums) allows culture vultures to visit many of the city’s museums until 2am at seriously discounted prices (e. and ballet continue throughout July at Szent István Basilica. It has featured many prominent international June 27 in 2009. The city does. the Hilton Dominican Court.com. On the summer solstice. to whisk participants between the museums. the offbeat Budapest Fringe Festival is described by its organizers as one big talent show. SUMMER. film@titanicfilmfest. with Klezmer and folk music also included. guests as well as the cream of local talent. and early September are usually ideal temperature-wise. Festivals & Special Events SPRING. while special buses are laid on by the Budapest transport company.gotohungary. dance. BKV. with calls free from the UK. Film fanatics get square-eyed at the Titanic Film Festival. jazz. Contact: Bernadett Gárdos (y 1/486-3326). 350 Fifth Avenue. Contact: Balázs Vízer (y 0620/551-4927]).co.hu. often ahead of their release dates. and crossover. the Budafest Summer Festival sees the classical concerts.btf. and the Örökmozgó Film Museum. Although the main concert season runs from late September to early June. viparts@viparts. theater. which runs for 10 days at the end of March or the beginning of April and shows many Hungarian and international films. however. with everything from punk bands to acrobats and belly dancers. It runs simultaneously in the magnificent Art Nouveau-influenced Uránia and the arthouse cinemas of Toldi.hu. plus outdoor novelties like skating and shopping at a Christmas market. Tickets can be purchased at museums and some BKV ticket booths. NY 10118. but with July and August often verging on the oppressively hot. August is a major vacation month so be prepared to find a fair number of restaurants.160 The Savvy Traveler Before You Go Government Tourist Offices For the US: Hungarian National Tourist Office.com. New York. muzeumokejszakaja. For the UK and Ireland: No walk-in service but interested parties are served via the website www. classical. Contact: www. takes place during the last two weeks of March.com or through Hungarian embassies. bars. Hotel prices are significantly cheaper in the off-season and the city is less overrun with tourists. June. Ft 1.goto hungary. Contact: www. May. and on Margaret Island. opera.hu. Travelers from Canada and Australia are not served directly but can make enquiries through www. www.g.200 in 2007). Vörösmarty. chamber music. Contact: y 1/332-4816. Suite 7107. gardos@ budapestfringe. making a strong case for an off-peak visit. The Budapest Spring Festival.

y 1/486-3300. November 1. A record 385. On All Saint’s Day. Contact: y 1/203-8507. Stephen’s Day on August 20. some even starting before noon on New Year’s Eve at the races at Kincsem Park (60km from Budapest).jewishfestival. with temperatures often hitting the high 80–90F/30C as early as mid-June and sometimes staying there until mid-September. cemeteries are lit up with candles and Kerepesi Cemetery. During the first week of September. WINTER. and vice versa to spring in May. at Fiumei út 16 in District VIII is the most spectacular. www.hu.000 visitors attended the 2008 event. and Ft 8. as well as many local artists. including those by Israeli pop stars. Contact: y 1/ 343-0420. hordes of Hungarians take to the Danube banks between Margaret Bridge and Szabadság Bridge to watch a stunning firework display. also known as Dohány utca Synagogue. More beautiful than macabre. The festival has featured many big names from The Cure. Summers are hot and long. Contact: Festival director Zsófia Zimányi. while everyone comes out to party for the New Year. However. precise temperatures are increasingly difficult to predict as . Hungarians visit cemeteries to pay their respects to departed relatives. the Sziget Festival takes place for just under a week in midAugust on an island (Hajógyárisziget) within the city limits. like many other countries in the world these days. The Weather Hungary has a continental climate with hot summers and cold winters where temperatures often linger below freezing point. modern dance. and plenty of craftspeople exhibiting their wares on and around the bridge (which is closed to traffic).hu. at the center. offbeat exhibitions. the Jewish Summer Festival sees a variety of concerts.500 and Ft 30.hu.hu. You can take a ferry from downtown Pest right into the action. even Hari Krishna bands. Just about anyone who is anyone in the world of Hungarian wine puts in an appearance at the Budapest International Wine Festival that occupies the Buda Palace’s grounds from Wednesday to Sunday around the middle of September. The Killers to Iron Maiden and underground international acts and leading world music performers. www.000 respectively for camping and non-camping tickets. which you can witness being made. http://bof. Tickets for the 6-day event cost Ft 37. also known as Fiumei Úti Sírkert. including the classic Transylvanian hollow whirly pastry known as kalács. occasionally uncomfortable. There are many other typical festival attractions such as bungee jumping and abseiling. Christmas is a quiet family affair with the main celebration on the evening of December 24. Iggy Pop. Contact: info@sziget. FALL. The changeover to cooler temperatures at the end of September or October can leave people wondering what’s happened to fall. aborfesztival. info@festivalcity.hu. with stages on both sides of the bridge. In October things get seriously abstract during the Budapest Autumn Festival with lots of cutting-edge performance art.161 Before You Go On weekends in the second half of June to the second half of August. at key venues in the Jewish district with the stunning Great Synagogue. On St. Lots of festival bites to eat are available. and all that jazz.000 per day (at the time of writing). Hungary’s answer to the UK’s Glastonbury and America’s Lollapalooza. so there’s no need to camp out. look out for ‘Summer on the Chain Bridge’.

www.com & www.avis. Useful Websites • www. and Summer on the Chain Bridge festivals. (°F) FEB MAR APR MAY JUNE -1 30 JULY 1 38 AUG 6 43 SEPT 11 52 OCT 16 61 NOV 19 66 DEC Daily Temp. expatshungary. (°F) 21 70 21 70 16 61 11 52 5 41 1 38 Source: www. making it much cheaper to use your phone in Hungary.hertz. caboodle. and the city’s baths.topbudapest. • www.apartments inbudapest. www. • www.hu is Budapest’s official tourism website and includes information on events.com is the city’s travel and commercial portal and has a hotel booking search engine that gives instant confirmation. while the likes of AVIS (www. • www.org the effects of climate change take hold.com.budapest times.budapest sun.hu & www. Fringe. then your mobile will work in Budapest. not per day. • www.bbj.hu provides detailed information on the city’s public transport system. Autumn. it is unlikely that you will need to rent a car.162 The Savvy Traveler AVERAGE TEMPERATURES JAN Daily Temp. with 80 free outgoing local minutes.hu. (°C) Daily Temp.festivalcity.hu contains detailed information on Hungary’s cuisine and the culinary scene.bkv. .budapestinfo. Roaming rates within the European Union have been cut drastically by regulators. The latter’s sister gastronomic site www.com) have offices at the airport and across the city.com are the main Englishlanguage newspapers and also come in print form. A rented car does come in handy though if you’re looking to make excursions beyond the city limits. Car Rentals With public transport still connecting the four corners of the city with relative ease. (°C) Daily Temp.hu contains detailed information on the Spring. An extremely mild Mediterranean-type winter can be followed by a typically cold one • www. • www. Check with your operator before you leave.hu are Englishlanguage sites that provide lots of practical information concerning life in Hungary.budapest. chew.fox-autorent.hu is an interactive train timetable that’s accessible in English. Cell Phones If your phone has GSM capability. Prices are generally cheaper if you book online before you arrive in Budapest.com) is a renowned local independent rental firm.xpatloop.elvira. Fox Autorent (www.com) and HERTZ (www. key sights.com rents out mobile phones for 39  per booking.

400 one way. which are named after the directions they originally served and to some extent still do.163 Getting Around Getting There By Plane Budapest has one major airport. Purchase taxi vouchers at the designated Zóna booths that you’ll find directly outside the terminals. with the latter subsequently split into Terminal 2A and 2B. By Train Budapest has three main stations. As well as Eastern destinations Keleti (Eastern) also handles most trains to Prague and Vienna.3 miles from downtown and divided into Terminal 1 and 2.hu) mini bus service also runs from both terminals and the booking desks are located close to arrivals.600 to Ft 4. although newer buses and trams are being rolled out continuously. By Car All major Hungarian roads lead to Budapest and a car provides a useful way of getting to the Hungarian capital. The Airport Shuttle (y 1/296-8555. Single tickets (Ft 290) or a book of 10 for Ft 2. All parts of the city are covered in detail.zonataxi. Getting Around By Public Transportation Budapest’s public transport system efficiently links all corners of the city and its coverage is dense. Try to enter or exit the city outside of rush hour (7am to 9pm and 4:30pm to 6:30pm) and you’ll cut significant time off your journey. www.600 can usually be bought at booths next to the bus stop or station. airportshuttle. the price depending on which of their zones your final destination lies in.990 and a return is Ft 4. The other two are Nuygati (Western) and Déli (Southern). tram. trolley-bus. or bus. Ferihegy. whether it be by metro. which is located 15km/9. It may be getting a bit creaky and dated. with trains from the latter going to Lake Balaton as well as Ljubljana and Zagreb. Eurolines arrives and departs from here. Zóna Taxi (y 1/3655555.eu) operates a reliable taxi service for Ft 3. although once in the city the driver will have the busy traffic and aggressive drivers to contend with.990. By Bus Budapest’s new modern bus station is slightly out of the center at Népliget but it is connected to the metro system. www. A single ticket costs Ft 2. Specific ticket kiosks at metro stations sell a wide . On the return leg they pick you up at your accommodation. as it hasn’t changed radically since the 1970s when it was considered a benchmark of Socialist planning. Book your return route no later than 24 hours before departure to ensure getting a return seat. The 200E bus connects both terminals and runs to Kóbánya-Kispest metro station where you can catch a metro to the downtown. Terminal 1 is mainly used by budget operators. but it’s advisable to stock up. Allow plenty of time for this option as other people are also being taken to their hotels and lodgings.

This will give 48 hours unlimited travel for 1 or 2 adults with 1 to 7 children between the ages of 6 and 14. You can also use the search function for babysitters who speak English. it still remains the safest and best option as transactions are carried out according to a generally favorable wholesale exchange rate. which is where much of Budapest’s charm lies. many of whom speak English. driving around the center can be a headache to say the least and is only for those who love the thrill of city driving in a new environment.400 respectively. Tele5Taxi (y 1/555-5555).164 The Savvy Traveler range of tickets and passes.dunahouse.100. FÓTaxi (y 1/222-2222).budarpads. although you need to provide a passport-sized photo for the latter.ibusz. Www. ATMS/CASHPOINTS fee per withdrawal. VISA and MASTERCARD and are now on most downtown streets. Oneday. Parking spaces are often hard to come by. The easiest and most recommendable way to get cash in Budapest is to gain direct access to your account via one of the plethora of ATMs that offer MAESTRO. By Taxi Taxis are abundant and are usually cheaper when you call one as opposed to flagging them down. Although banks charge a . com has a babysitter and au pair search function and uses only qualified babysitters. At larger banks you can step in off the street to use the bank machines and security cameras are operated. On foot you can appreciate the scale of the early 20th-century building phenomenon that gave Budapest its defining look.500.700 and Ft 4. three-day and seven-day travelcards that provide unlimited travel cost Ft 1. Parking tickets are required in many central zones and are bought from coin-operated machines. However.com has shorter as well as long-term rentals. the operators of many taxi firms don’t speak English. The renowned Korompay Family Day Care at Menesi út 19 in District 11 (y 1/4665740 or 0630/921-7820) also works in the English language and is run by former kindergarten teachers. By Car Hungarians love to drive and usually aggressively at that. On Foot Much of the center can be covered on foot and this is also the best way of seeing beyond the city’s key sights. Validate tickets at the top of the escalators before you get on the metro and as you get on trams and buses. Rates vary between operators but these three listed companies provide very competitive rates: City Taxi (y 1/2111111).hu) offers many apartments for rent (and sale) and has a huge network of offices across the city. BABYSITTING Babysitter Training and Agency Center www. which provides a homely alternative to staying in a hotel as well as shortterm rentals.hu) has a private accommodation service at Ferenciek tere 10 (y 1/485-2767).babaklub. Ft 3. Fast Facts APARTMENT RENTALS Dunahouse (www. Consequently. with the roads so busy and the actions of the local driver unpredictable. There is also the option of buying a family ticket for Ft 2. IBUSZ (www.

B&BS The same numbers apply when departing Hungary. plus the Intercontinental and NH Hotels.hu and the internationally popular www. although some larger branches of major banks stay open until 5:30pm. including free entry to numerous popular sights (see Passes). CUSTOMS FAMILY TRAVEL GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS www. y 1/475 4400. Local sites www. events. y 1/457 9777.500 and Ft 8.000 per day with longer and shorter rentals also available. 200 cigarettes. below). EMBASSIES The Australian Embassy is at Királyhágó tér 8–9. etc. cruising. Non-EU citizens over the age of 16 can bring in 250ml eau de cologne and 50g perfume. or a combination of these.com also has a hotel search and booking function. BUSINESS HOURS Shops tend to be open from 10am to 6pm. or 50 cigars.000 per day and tandems for Ft 5. The Budapest card is valid for one adult and one child up to 14 years of age costing Ft 6. and the US Embassy at Szabadság tér 12. EVENT LISTINGS BIKE RENTALS Budapestbike (www. District 5. while EU citizens are permitted to carry 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer into Hungary.000 for 48 and 72 hours. www. www. y 1/266 2888. y 1/267-9602 and Stomatologia at Szentkirályi utca 40 in District VIII. CAR RENTALS Fox Autorent has offices at the airport. Ireland’s Embassy at Gránit Torony in the Bank Center at Szabadság tér 7–9 y 1/302-9600.funzine. y 1/317-6600 offers around-theclock dental treatment. budapest. DENTISTS DINING (see Emergencies.budapest hotels. although many stay open until 8pm in shopping malls. Hungary uses twopin plugs and the 230V current.hu has up-to-date information about cultural events. This enterprising company also arranges baths and pub tours.165 Fast Facts BANKING HOURS Most banks are open from Monday to Friday from 8am to 4pm. restaurants.justbookit.com provide online booking services for a wide range of Budapest hotels and often offer discounts compared to the regular prices you get when approaching a hotel direct. See Car Rentals earlier in this chapter on p 162. up to 250g. Shops and hotels often cash travelers checks but at inferior rates to banks. the UK Embassy at Harmincad utca 6. Non-EU citizens are allowed to enter with 1 litre of distilled alcohol and 2 litres of wine. or 250g tobacco. the Embassy of Canada at Ganz utca 12–14.hu) at Wesselényi utca 18 in District VII rents new Gepida Alboins for Ft 3.net provides detailed information on accommodation. tripadvisor. District 2.com. District 12. Note: 2008’s Gay Pride march was subject to vicious attacks from far . Dial 104 for an ambulance. and look out for the print version free in hotels. y 1/392-3360. budapestbike.gayguide. saunas. ELECTRICITY Like the rest of continental Europe. It provides free travel and many sightseeing benefits. Tourist information portal www. Adapters can be bought in electrical stores such as Media Markt.budapest. EMERGENCIES SOS Dental Service at Király uta 14 in District VI. Eating out in Budapest is generally a casual affair with no jacket required except for a few exclusive restaurants (you should enquire when making a booking). while citizens from EU countries can bring in 800 cigarettes and much larger quantities of alcohol.

166 The Savvy Traveler right factions and as such it is uncertain whether it will continue in 2009. y 1/7874888) also does photocopying. Tickets cost Ft 4.com and www. PHARMACIES Pharmacies are plentiful in Budapest and the one at Teréz körút 41 (y 1/311-4439) is open around the clock and charges a small fee for an after-hours service.eu) runs a hop on/hop off . ORIENTATION TOURS City-Circle Sightseeing (y 1/327-6690. Despite this a lively gay scene has started to develop. LOST PROPERTY MONEY Hungary uses the Forint (Ft or HUF). Budapest vision (y 0630/ 9222-111 or 0670/617-4010. discounts in restaurants. For EU citizens emergency treatment is free on presenting a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC).uw. Hungary is a serious health tourism destination. free or discounted entry to 60 museums and to several sights. although isolated incidents do occur. reduced price tickets for cultural and folklore programs. Check which district your items were lost or stolen in and go to that district’s police station.000. although unsurprisingly many people in Hungary still choose to stay in the closet. SAFETY Budapest feels remarkably safe at night compared to Western cities of a similar size. although local private medical fees are reasonably priced. The meeting points are next to Deák tér in front of the Hotel Le Meridien or next to the entrance of Deák tér in front of the Evangelical Church on Erzsébet tér. PASSPORTS Passports are issued by the relevant embassy who should also be contacted immediately in the case of lost or stolen passports. With its high standards for a low cost. especially for dental care. Children up to 11 years old can ride for free. Www.hu) runs a wide variety of tours in Budapest and beyond. shows all wireless internet hotspots on a map with those marked in blue representing those that are free—click on the flag and the address comes up. spas. Hungary is far from a cashless society and the use of credit cards is slowly catching on.hu. eurama.limohungary. cityrama. It is available in 250 tourist and transport outlets across the city. although in Hungarian. Cityrama (y 1/302-4382.500 and are valid for 24 hours. Internet cafes are increasingly common and you are likely to see them around downtown.com handle suitably flash fleets. www.hu.500 and Ft 8. faxing. The exchange rate varies and at the time of writing $1 was worth Ft 181. Fougou at Wesselényi utca 57 in District VII (fougou. It’s valid for one adult and one child up to 14 years of age and offers: unlimited travel on public transport.hu) operates 2-hr bus tours for Ft 4.5. Police stations handle lost property. and other benefits.000. travel accident insurance. and on car rental.hotspotter.000 for 48 and 72 hours respectively. INSURANCE It is advisable to arrange travel insurance before departing your home country. although not much ends up returned. If your luggage is lost on arrival make a claim at the airport immediately. You are also required to report the incident to local police and request a a police report. Be wary of taxi drivers as even those of reputable firms have been known to rip Www.onelimo. and scanning. printing. www. 3-hr for Ft 6.000 and a hop on/hop off service for Ft 4. the latter including a 1hr boat tour. from 7am to 2am.barbiebus. www. PASSES The Budapest Card costs Ft 6. INTERNET ACCESS LIMOS city tour commencing every hour from the Chain Bridge and Hotel Intercontinental.

Mosquitoes can be a pest in summer but don’t carry malaria in Hungary. Ft 20. while a few can be operated by coins of Ft 10. especially behind your hair line. including the Buda Hills to some extent. Jegymester (Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 31. TAXES Mobile phones have more than 100 per cent penetration among the population and to dial a mobile you start with 06. When calling Budapest from abroad. followed by the prefix of one of the three providers: TMobile (30).167 Fast Facts off foreigners. followed by a seven-digit number. Ft 50. The main tourist office is at Március 15 tér 7 (y 1/2660479) with branches around town. although sometimes the coin slots are blocked by fraudsters. VAT can be reclaimed at the airport on the purchase of goods. and Vodafone (70). but if not look out for the word kiszolgalás. STAYING HEALTHY Ticks (kullancs) populate woodland areas in parts of Hungary. which is subsequently followed by a seven-digit number. use the 06 prefix. and Vigadó Ticket Service (Vörösmarty tér 1. and Ft 100. TIPPING Adding between 10 and 15 per cent to restaurant and bar bills is the norm (be careful to check service hasn’t already been added). Cover up well in wooded areas and check for the little blood suckers later. TELEPHONES Cards can be bought at kiosks. TOURIST TRAPS Beware of service already being added to restaurant bills in some restaurants. They can be twisted out with tweezers. but you drop the prefix when calling within the city. but also for trips to hairdressers. Ticket Express Jókai utca (Jókai utca 40. Refuse to take a cab ride should they neglect to run the meter. y 1/317-6417). Avoid getting into unmarked taxis as they can really overcharge. Dropping into hotels discretely is often the best option. and pose a threat in the form of Tick brain-inflaming Borne Encephalitis (TBE) and Lyme Disease. TOURIST OFFICES VAT (Value Added Tax) is known as ÁFA in Hungary and is charged and included on most goods and services at a rate of 20 per cent. Pickpockets can be a problem on public transport. beauticians. . Insect repellent can deter both. it is necessary to dial the country code for Hungary followed by the prefix and seven-digit number. SENIOR TRAVELERS Foreign senior citizens are entitled to the same free public transport right as Hungarians. y 1/353-0692). Pannon (20). The prefix for Budapest is 1. Service charges are often mentioned on menus in English. www. Ticket Express (Andrássy út 18. but go straight to a doctor if the insect doesn’t come out in one piece. usually around Ft 100. TOILETS Public toilets are not in great supply but can be found at the key transport hubs. To call a Hungarian mobile from abroad. you start with the country code followed by the mobile provider’s prefix and then the number. y 1/3024433. TICKETS Central ticket offices supply tickets for the full gamut of concerts and performances.jegymester. When calling a Hungarian number beyond the capital. Restaurants are required to have a non-smoking area and increasingly most do.hu). etc. You have to pay a small fee to use them. y 0630/ 303-0999). If it is you needn’t tip extra unless you were especially pleased with the service. such as Sütó utca 2 in District V next to Deák tér metro station and at all airport terminals. SMOKING Many Hungarians smoke and Westerners are often shocked at how smoky many bars can be.

1967 Reconciliation with Austria sees period of joint rule. 1920 The post-WW1 Treaty of Tri- capture the Carpathian basin. in which he says his party screwed up their term of office. 1970S Free-market reforms see Hun- Christianity leading to the Pope recognizing Hungary as a country. if not the Hungarian word is óra—if you have problem rolling your Rs simply point. 896 Seven Magyar tribes ride in to become one city. 1541–1686 Turkish occupation. 1956 Revolution against Soviet- Augsburg. The US Embassy carries a black list of rip-off joints to be avoided at all costs at: http://hungary. 1989 A velvet revolution ensues Hungary. TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES Budapest is gradually waking up to the needs of disabled travelers but has a long way to go before it is on a par with Western countries. Getting on and off public transport can be a challenge. 1000 King István (Stephen) adopts backed dictatorship sees the streets of Budapest become a battlefield with the Soviets returning to suppress the short period of freedom. VAT See taxes. 1849 The Chain Bridge becomes the May 1. including the territory known today as Hungary. gov/tourist_advisory. 1848 Ultimately unsuccessful Revo- after Hungary plays a major role in helping East Germans escape to the West. Prime Minister Ferenc Gyurcsány at a closed party is leaked. 955 The Magyars are defeated at anon sees Hungary lose some two-thirds of its territory.usembassy. . The taxi driver will understand the word meter. 2004 Hungary enters the EU on lution against Habsburg rule. becomes the center of lower Pannonia. now part of 1873 Buda and Pest merge to Budapest. 2006 Riots ensue after a speech by first permanent bridge between Buda and Pest.168 The Savvy Traveler and there have even been problems reported with reputable companies. Make sure the meter is running when you start your journey. marking the end of their initial expansion into Western Europe.html. 1361 Buda becomes the capital of gary become the ‘happiest barracks in the [Warsaw Pact] camp’. although the 4/6 trams that operate on the most important route can be accessed by wheelchairs as well as newer buses. Budapest: A Brief History 106 Roman Aquincum.

) Jó reggelt! Jó napot! Jó estét! Hogy vagy? Jól..? the station a post office a bank a hotel a restaurant a pharmacy the toilet To the right To the left Straight ahead I don’t understand What time is it? I would like.? Mennyibe kerül? Mikor? Mi? Kérek Hol van? az állomás egy posta egy bank egy szálloda egy étterem egy gyógyszertár a WC Jobbra Balra Egyenesen Nem értem Mennyi az idó? Szeretnék..169 Useful Phrases & Menu Terms Useful Phrases & Menu Terms Useful Words & Phrases ENGLISH HUNGARIAN PRONUNCIATION Hello Good morning Good afternoon Good evening How are you? Fine.a taxi egy szobát egy éjszakára egy taxit edge sobat edge ace-aka-ro edge taxeet .. thanks Thank you Good-bye Good night Yes No Excuse me Sorry Do you speak English? Can you help me? Do you have.)/ Szia!(inf.to eat Jó napot! (form. enni Your-nopot/ See-ya/ Your-reggelt Your-nopot Your-eshtate Hodge-vodge Jol...) Jó éjszakát! Igen Nem Elnézést Bocsánat Beszél angolul? Tudna segíteni? Van. cusunum Cusumum Visontlatasra Yo ace-okat Igen Nem Elnayzayst Botch-arnot Besale ongolule Tude-na shegyteni Von Men-yeeiber kerule Me-kore (me-core) Me Kay-wreck Hol-von oz arllomash edge powsta edge bonk edge sarl-odar edge ate-erem george-sertar a vey-say yobb-ro/a bolra edge-en-eshen nem airtem Men-yee oz idur Seret-nayke any—but emphasize and pronounce the double n ..... . köszönöm! Köszönöm! Viszontlátásra!(form....? How much is it? When? What? Give me Where is.)/ Szia! (inf.a room for one night .....

170 The Savvy Traveler ENGLISH HUNGARIAN PRONUNCIATION When? Yesterday Today Tomorrow Breakfast Lunch Dinner Mikor? Tegnap Ma Holnap Reggeli Ebéd Vacsora Me-kore (me-core) Teg-nop Mo Hol-nop Regg-ily Ebade Votch-ore-a Numbers NUMBER HUNGARIAN PRONUNCIATION 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 1000 2000 3000 egy kettó három négy öt hat hét nyolc kilenc tíz (dyehth) tizenegy tizenkettó tizenhárom tizennégy tizenöt tizenhat tizenhét tizennyolc tizenkilenc húsz harminc negyven ötven hatvan hetven nyolcvan kilencven száz ezer kétezer háromezer edge kett-ure har-um naydge urt hot hate knee-olce kee-lenc tease tease-en-edge tease-en-kett-ure tease-en-har-um tease-en-naydge tease-en-urt tease-en-hot tease-en-hate tease-en-knee-olce tease-en-kee-lenc huwse har-mince nedge-ven urt-ven hot-von het-ven knee-olce-von kee-lenc-ven saz ez-air kate-ez-air har-um ez-air Hungarian Menu Most restauarants now have English-language menus but this list is useful in the more basic places. and for translating the daily specials list which is often Hungarian only. HUNGARIAN ENGLISH Reggeli Ebéd Vacsora Breakfast Lunch Dinner .

171 Useful Phrases & Menu Terms HUNGARIAN ENGLISH Kenyér Vaj Méz Dzsem Sajt Sonka Kolbász Tojás Só Bors Cukor Tej Olaj Ecet Víz Ásványíz Bor Száraz Édes Fehér Vörös Sör Pálinka Husok Bárány Csirke Kacsa Liba Marha Nyúl Pulyka Szarvas Borjú Comb Mell Máj Sonka Hal Harcsa Kagyló Lazac Pisztráng Rák Ponty Tonhal Burgonya Hasábburgonya Rízs Tészta Zöldség Gomba Bread Butter Honey Jam Cheese Ham Sausage Egg Salt Peppers Sugar Milk Oil Vinegar Water Mineral water Wine Dry Sweet White Red Beer Fruit brandy Meats Lamb Chicken Duck Goose Beef Rabbit Turkey Venison Veal Leg Breast Liver Ham Fish Catfish Mussles Salmon Trout Crab. prawn Carp Tuna Potatoes French fries Rice Pasta Vegetables Mushroom .

chocolate sauce and cream . nuts. raisins and cream Stew Catfish paprika with dumplings or pasta Pancake with walnut.172 The Savvy Traveler HUNGARIAN ENGLISH Karfiol Kukorica Lencse Sárgarépa Spárga Spenót Hal Zöldbab Borsó Saláta Uborka Paradicsom Alma Dinnye Eper Narancs Ószibarack Sárgabarack Szilva Dió Gesztenye Málna Gulyásleves Bableves Halászlé Töltött káposzta Hortobágyi palacsinta Somlói galuska Pörkölt Harcsapaprikás Gundel palacsinta Cauliflower Maize Lentils Carrot Asparagus Spinach Fish Green beans Peas Lettuce Cucumber Tomato Apple Melon Strawberry Orange Peach Apricot Plum Walnut Chestnut Raspberry Goulash soup Bean soup Fish soup Stuffed cabbage Pancake with minced meat Sponge cake with chocolate sauce.

S.S.com AUSTRIAN AIRLINES y 800/374-7747 in the U.com US AIRWAYS y 800/843-0002 in the U.flybmi.173 Toll-free Numbers & Websites Toll-free Numbers & Websites AER LINGUS BRITISH AIRWAYS NORTHWEST AIRLINES y 800/474-7424 in the U. No U.S.com y 0870/850-9-850 in AIR CANADA y 800/225-2525 www. y 0848/85-2000 in Switzerland www.klm.icelandair.S.alitalia.S. y 0070/727-727 in Sweden y 800/262-1234 or -2468 in the U.usairways. www.com VIRGIN ATLANTIC AIRWAYS y 43/(0)5-1789 in Austria www. y 800/663-5494 in Canada y 0800/737-000 in New Zealand www.swiss.is KLM y 877/359-7947 in the U.S.lufthansa.com UNITED AIRLINES y 800/433-7300 www.S.S.S.united.S y 800/247-9297 in y 01/886-8844 in Ireland the U. y 902/400-500 in Spain www. y 800/428-4322 www.com EASYJET y 800/221-2350 in the U.british-airways.com ICELANDAIR y 815/200-400 in Norway www.com IBERIA y 70/10-20-00 in Denmark y 358/(0)20-386-000 in Finland y 800/772-4642 in the U.nwa.aircanada.airnewzealand.nl LUFTHANSA y 800/241-6522 www.aua.com ALITALIA No U.com QANTAS y 888/247-2262 www. number y 0870/6070-222 in Britain www.qantas. y 49/(0)-180-5-838426 in Germany www. www.com AIR NEW ZEALAND y 0820-820-820 in France y 800/221-1212 www.com y 800/862-8621 in continental U.S.it AMERICAN AIRLINES y 800/223-5500 in the U. y 612/131313 in Australia www. y 020/4-747-747 in the Netherlands www.net SWISS INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES y 800/223-5730 in the U.aa.com SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES y 800/525-0280 www.S.com DELTA AIR LINES y 800/237-2747 in the U.S. number www.com y 0870/380-2007 in Britain www.airfrance.ca AIR FRANCE Britain www.iberia.com CONTINENTAL AIRLINES y 800/227-4500 in the U.com BMI y 800/645-3880 in the U.scandinavian. y 8488-65641 in Italy www.S.aerlingus.S.delta. y 354/50-50-100 in Iceland www.com .continental.S.virgin-atlantic.easyjet.

32–33. 22–25 Állatkert. 130 Millenáris. below. 32. 131 live music. 23 Museum of Applied Arts. 130 Csontváry Museum. 166 Budapest Fringe Festival. 133 Academy of Sciences. 116–120. 23 Balatonfüred. 15 National Savings Treasury. 32. 164 Attila Gere winery. 23 Bedó Ház. 130. 133. 123 National Gallery. 150 Balás Villa. 161 Budapest Spring Festival. 41. 131 Keszthely. See also summer bars. 59 Buda Palace. 127–129 ATMs. 25–29. 77 Blaha Lujaz tér. 130 Ferenc Liszt Music Academy. 23. 20. 25 Geological Institute. 66. Matthias Church. 51 Amphitheater. 59 Corvin tér. 163 . 168 off the beaten track. 133 classical music. 42 boating. 24 Fine Arts Museum. 57 Kölcsey Ferenc Gimnázium. 25 Budai Vigadó. 77. 149. 52 Agricultural Ministry. 24 Ferenc Liszt Music Academy. 62 Széchenyi Gyógyfürdó és Uszoda. 23 Budafest Summer Festival. 24. 14 animal attractions. 15. 52 banking hours. 62–63 Fó tér. 84 Andrássy utca. 130 Kieselbach Gallery and Auction House. 59 B&Bs. 160 Buddha Beach. 165. 160 Budapest International Wine Festival. 24 Four Seasons Gresham Palace. 48 Nyugati Station. 7 Arrow Cross Party. 85 All Saint’s Day. 72 Art Nouveau. 11. 126 cinema. 85 antiques. 131 Mücsarnok. 47 Great Market Hall. 155 University Church. 155 Royal Palace. 126–134 arts centers. 59 Chain Bridge. 13–14 Arena Plaza. 131 Opera House. 77 Great Synagogue. 123–124 Bábszi nház (puppet theater). 3. 71–72. 61 St. 59 Budai Vigadó. 131 Opera House. 47 amusement park (Vidámpark). 134 maps. 130 architecture. 150 bike rentals. 53 Vajdahunyad Castle. 25 Belgrade Orthodox Church. 83. 153 Matilda towers. 10 Budapest Autumn Festival. 132–133 dance. 8–9 Pécs Cathedral. 71–72 apartment rentals. wine bars baths. 153 ballet. 151 August Cukrászda. 131–132 best bets. 130. 110. 3. 165 bars. 59 Dobó tér. See also Art Nouveau Batthyány tér. 153 Bécsi kapu tér. 23 Zoo. 50–53 Benedictine Abbey. 158 Batthyány tér. 164 Badacsony. 89 books in English. 55 Hungarian National Bank. 52 Gellért Baths. 52 Keleti Station. 57 art galleries and museums. 140. 164 Applied Arts Museum. 78. 14. 147 Belváros.174 Index Index See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes. 39 babysitting. 53 Moszkva tér. 147. 155 University Church. 52–53 Új Szinhaz. 71–72 Ludwig Museum. 90 Zala Villa. 121–122 Bedó Ház. 8–9 Parliament. 53 VAM Design Center. 131 Applied Arts Museum. 37 B B7 (club). 15. 23. 51 Pécs Cathedral. 64 Bed Beach (club). 153 Benedictine Monastery of Pannonhalma. 133 Árpád. 85 Balás Villa. 10–11. 23 Kazinczy utca Synagogue. 133 galleries and museums. 23 arts and entertainment. 24 Watertower. 52 Roosevelt tér. 130 Mai Manó Gallery. 59 Dob utca School. Tihany. 163 Állatkert (zoo). 90. 157 Fisherman’s Bastion. 126. 27 Széchenyi tér. 133 Bank Center. See Royal Palace Budapest favorite moments in. 86–87 Budai alsó rakpart. 85 Boatyard Island. 165 Bio Market. 155 Ernst Museum. 165 beach (Siófok). 131 Mumus. 51 airports. 160 Buda Hills. 13. A A38 Ship (music venue). 132 Virág Judit Mü-terem Gallery and Auction House. 72 Braille Institute. 124 buses. 2–4 history of. 161 American Embassy. 110. 83. 161 Budapest Card.

122 Chain Bridge. 57 Great Market Hall. 15 Filter Klub (music venue). 166 customs. 16–20 G gardens Castle Gardens. 87 Földtani Intézet. 160–161 Festival Theater. 15. 53 Erzsébet lookout tower. 19 Fröhlich Cukrászda. 72 Erkel Szinház.175 Index C Caledonian Scottish Pub. 149. 124 Fidesz. 134 gifts. 77 Fogaskerekü. 61 Gellért Baths. 126. 133 Freedom Square. 34–37 Cog Wheel Railway. 154–155 wine country. 39. 18. 25. 39 Csontváry. 132 Ernst Museum. 124 clubs. 149–150 Etyeki Kúria. 161 churches. 18–20 Geological Institute. 156–158 Lake Balaton. 77 Fonó Budai Zeneház (music venue). 17–18. 19. 93–97 disabilities. 78. 146–147 Danube River. 90 Danubius Health Spa Resort. 59 courtyards. 166 Fény utca piac. 110. 133 Citadel (Citadella). 83 CoXx Men’s Club. 39. 165 design objects. 126. See also Restaurant Index best bets. 76 Flórián tér. 131 Fészek Club. 163 dentists. travelers with. 130 Eródy mansion. 87 Columbus Jazz Club. 148–151 Déli Station. 87 Esztergom. 64 Erzsébet Bridge. See kids. 33 car rentals. 157 Eger Cathedral. 20 Cave Hospital and Bunker. 14. 20 City Park. 156–158 Eger Castle. 3. 164 Castle District. King. 73 dining. 163. 28. 60–64 Castle Gardens. 6–20 one day. 77 Gödör (music venue). 151 Dobó tér. 168 Disznókó winery. 53. 98–102 Hungarian menu terms. 165–166 Gellért Baths. 157 Dob utca School. 124. 165 exchange rate. 52. 157–158 Egerszalók Thermal Resort. 63. 162 cemetery at Korma utca. 61–63 flea markets. 51–52. 29 gay and lesbian travelers. 165 emergency services. 131. 132–133 climate. Turkish. 152–153 Pécs. 27 Gellért Hill. 42 Corvin tér. 23 folk art. 6–11 two days. 165 English-language books. 48. 133. 77 Ferenciek tere. 147 Etyek. 110. 110. 155 cinema. 48 flowers. 165 Cashpoints. 61 castles and palaces Eger Castle. 110. 90 Lukács Gyógyfürdó. 24. 59 chair lift. 155 Ecseri Piac. 130 Fisherman’s Bastion. 87 Charles IV. 57 Centenary Monument. 134 Fine Arts Museum. 36–37 full-day tours. 17. 76 Eger. 61. 77 Great Synagogue. 27 Japanese Garden. activities for Children’s Railway. 89 Gozsdu Udvar. 126. 87 F fashion. 158 electricity. 149–150 event listings. See religious sites Church of Saint Mary. 57 Franz Joseph I. specialty. 66. 73–75 Felvonulási tér. 90 day trips and excursions. 132 Ferenc Puskás stadium. 146–158 Danube bend. 4. 66. 165 embassies. 55–56. 134 go-karting. 11. 162. 92 dress code for. 84 Freedom Statue. 56. 12–15 three days. 116 Capella (club). 124 driving. 102–108 maps. 126. 124 Csodák Palotája. 24 Dokk (club). 13–14 Cave Church. 147 Vajdahunyad Castle. 83 Cirko-geyzir (cinema). 72–73 ChaChaCha Kert (club). 23 Giero (music venue). 66. 43 . 17–18. 63 cell phones. 62 child care. 66. 20. 134 food. Tivadar. 32. 164 E Early Christian Cemetery. 134 Communist Budapest. 163. 87 Corvin Mozi. 165 Hungarian cuisine. 61 Royal Palace (Visegrád). 36–37. 89 ceramics. 161 Gül Baba tomb. 119 Fó tér. 77. 110. 153 Royal Palace (Budapest). 133 Danube bend. 164 children’s activities. 82–85 classical music. 146–147 Eger. 42–48. 171–172 international cuisine. 48 Festetics Palace. 87 Christmas. 126. 47 Frankel Leó utca Synagogue. 133 Circus. 84 golf. 11. 153 festivals. 79. 155 currency. 3. 53 Ferenc Liszt Music Academy. 4. 165 D dance. 157 Festetics Palace. 124 carpets. 3. 161–162 Club Inside. 126. 31 Gyermekvasút. 39. 123–124 coffee houses. 155 Csontváry Museum.

166 Ludwig Museum. 130 Hungarian Jewish Museum. 90 jewelry. 87 Libyan Embassy. 90 hats. 126. 165 Vajdahunyad Castle. 168 Holocaust Memorial Center. 169–172 dining. 84 Hósök tere. 84–85 Vidámpark. 131 Millennium Underground. 55 Hilton Dominican Court. 87 Japanese Garden. memorial of. 160 historical sites. 78 Millenáris. 51 Állatkert. 87 Japanese Garden. 52 Libegó. 59 Hungarian Philharmonic Orchestra. 90 Westend City Center. 78 Cave Hospital and Bunker. 41–42. 7. 84 Katapult Café & Pub. 90 Musical Well. Tivadar. 85 Imre Nagy Bridge statue. 87. 157 H Hajógyári sziget. 38–39 traveling with. 13–14. 166 live music. See also Communist Budapest. 15 Hungarian State Television. 14 Kölcsey Ferenc Gimnázium. 20 Geological Institute. 90 Szabadság tér. 47 Herend. 71–72 Kincsem Park. 41. 85 Városligeti Müjégpálya. 130. 32 Klauzál tér. 85 IMAX cinema. 11 Children’s Railway. 132 Hungarian Revolution. 161 Keszthely. 23 limos. 66. 64 history of Budapest. 27 Széchenyi tér. 85 Applied Arts Museum. 89. 137–139 lost property. 15. 57 Kogart. 48 Circus. 15. 33 insurance. 66. 63–64 Mammut. activities for Agricultural Ministry. 54–57. 29. 157 Eger Castle. 161 Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti Sportuszoda. 41 Köztársaság tér. 166 . 150. 14. 24. 118 Kazinczy utca Synagogue. 78 Kieselbach Gallery and Auction House. 63 Vienna Gate. 39. 155 tour for. 150 L Lake Balaton. 14 Lukács Gyógyfürdó. 51 Inner City Parish Church. 23 Gül Baba tomb. Margaret’s Abbey. 11 Cave Hospital and Bunker. 168 Hungarian Socialist Party. 52 Hungarian National Folk Ensemble. 161 King Matthia’s Fountain.176 Index Gypsy music and dance. 7–8 MOM Park. See Accommodations Index House of Terror. 134 lodging. See Saint Stephen I István Dobó Museum. 78 Imre Nagy Bridge statue. 15. 48 Fisherman’s Bastion. 57 Honvéd tér. 131 Lukács Cukrázda. 43 Herzl. 7 Idókerék. 163 Kerepesi Cemetery. 75 Jewish Budapest. 90 National Museum. 53 Watertower. 55 Hungarian language. 73 Hercules Villa. Revolutionary Budapest Castle District. 87 Gellért Baths. 42. 62–63 Fogaskerekü. 27 Gellért Hill. King. 89. 79. 84–85 Idókerék. 61 Király Gyógyfürdó. 170–172 numbers. 153 kids. 130 Arena Plaza. 14–15. 90 St. 41–42. 78 Museum of Applied Arts. 28–29. 31 Gyermekvasút. 131. 157 Eger Cathedral. 28. 32 Lechner. 161 Józsefvárosi Piac. 25 Musical Fountain. 168 István. Ferenc. 57 Magdalene Tower. 133. 76 K Károly kert. 83. 51 János-hegy. 166 internet. 42 Kreinbacher winery. 134 Gyurcsány. 90 Heroes Square. 90 Klauzál tér. 72–73 Heroes Square. 136 maps. 169–170 Hungarian National Bank. 152–153 last Pasha. 170 useful phrases. See also Accommodations Index best bets. Ödön. 32 I ice skating. 47. 157–158 Egerszalók Thermal Resort. 83 Dobó tér. 36–37. 52 J János-hegy. 19. 87 Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti Sportuszoda. 158 Ferenc Puskás stadium. 63 Chain Bridge. 46 Hungarian Foundation of Photography. 29. 13 Széchenyi Gyógyfürdó és Uszoda. 4. 51–52 Széchenyi Fürdó Baths. 33 Palatinus Strandfürdó. 51. 23 Kossuth Lajos tér. 57 Keleti Station. 84 Vigádo tér. 23. 7 hotels.

Imre. See castles and palaces Palatinus Strandfürdó. 130 malls. 57 Pécs. 116–120 best bets. 88–90 outdoor safety. 64 National Dance Theater. 155 music classical. 14–15 Zsolnay Museum. 46 Millenáris. 76 Vörösmarty tér. 133. 126. 155 perfume. 25 Museum of Ethnography. 33 Palace of Wonders. 66. 121–123. 3–4. 120–121 Night of the Museums. 15. 82–90 Buda Hills. 15. Tihany. 157–158 O Óbuda. 89 Memento Park. Victor. 23 House of Terror. 46 Hungarian Jewish Museum. 64 Múvész (cinema). 48 public transportation. 160 Ostrom utca. 167 Monarchia winery. 131 Múzeumok Éjszakája. 11. 48. 124 playgrounds. 78 venues. 133 National Gallery. Gyula. 166 Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kasim. 124 maps. 116–120 Puppet Theater. 31. 84 Margaret Island. See also art galleries and museums Bedó Ház. 39 Serbian Orthodox Museums. 126. King. 119 Museum Kávéház. 76 food. 42 Heroes Square. 80 Post Office building. 66. 82–85 Margaret Island. 131 Pók. 133 Old Buda. 4 Museum of Applied Arts. 63–64 Mai Manó Gallery. 166 Pauer. 158. 84. Tamás. 32–33. 39 Railway Museum. 33 National Savings Treasury. 131 Museum Cukrászda. 24 New Year’s Eve. 46 . 24. 131 National Museum. 52 Bio Market. 32 outdoor activities. 43. 149 money. 42 Railway Museum. 62 Mátyás Templom. 76. 123. 50–64 Belváros. 123 Munkácsy. 39 palaces. 41–43. 53 Parliament. 157 mobile phones. 66 Belvárosi Vásárcsarnok. 78 Margaret Island. 25 Geological Institute. 53 Matthias Corvinus. 110. 111–115 summer bars and venues. 66. 58–59 New Theater. 155 Eger Cathedral. 48 Mücsarnok. 48. 118 open spaces Blaha Lujaz tér. 133 Orbán. 153 Benedictine Monastery of Pannonhalma. 61. Mihály. 134. 51 museums. 118. 163 R Radio Building. 133 Múvész (coffee house). 89. 126. 47 Óbudai Társakör. 157 Museum of Applied Arts. 52 neighborhood walks. 10–11. 166 passports. 157 Minorita Church. 56 Magdalene Tower. 20 Church of Saint Mary. 133. 84 Japanese Garden. 7–8 Minaret. 80 Pannonhalma. 15 Örökmozgó (cinema). 62. 51 National Archives building. 76 Fény utca piac. 39 N Nádor Terem. 39 Szabadság tér. 167 P Palace of Arts. 90 Palau de la Musica. 35 Múvészetek Palotája. 147 Terror House. 131. 147 Benedictine Abbey. 77 flea. 121–123 wine bars. 39 religious objects. 123–124 gay clubs. 162. 50–53 Castle District. 110. 155 Moszkva tér. 76 PESCA. 17–18. 84 Opera House. 166 Piaf (club).177 Index M Madách Imre tér arch. 160 Nyugati Station. 7. 90 Music History Institute. 25 Museum of Ethnography. 134 pharmacies. 53 Matilda towers. 88–90 markets. 90 Musical Well. 24 Pálinka (liqueur). 110–124 bars and pubs. 150 Cave Church. 132 Memento Park. 29. 132–133 stores. 47 Old Man’s Music Pub. 131 Mumus. 163–164 pubs. 4. 41. 29. 15 passes. 160 Palace of Wonders. 86–87 City Park. 51 Pártos. 150 Papp Lásló Budapest Sport Arena. 3. 51 National Museum. 78–79 PESCA. 55 István Dobó Museum. 54–57 Watertown (Víziváros). 8–9. 110 clubs. Gyula. 77 Józsefvárosi Piac. 160 Musical Fountain. 4. 17 Ecseri Piac. 132–133 Nagy. 133–134 Párizsi udvar. 60–64 Jewish quarter. 7 Honvéd tér. 77 Great Market Hall. 131 Millennium Underground. 79 religious sites Belgrade Orthodox Church. 131 Millennium City Center. 154–155 Pécs Cathedral. 131 Palace of Wonders. 90 Károly kert. 77 Christmas. 161 nightlife.

124 Revolutionary Budapest. 4. 9. 48. 85 tipping. 61. 31. 123 T Táncsis Mihály utca. 30–33 spirits. 167 ticks. 4. 167–168 tours. 39 trams. 55–56 Gül Baba tomb. 161 swimming. 10. 160 Tóth Árpád sétány. 164. 31 Royal Palace (Budapest). 47. 44–48 for kids. 46 Stephen I. 87 Railway Museum. 59 transportation. 53 Uránia (cinema). 173 tennis. 77 food. 153 Szabadság Bridge. Stephen’s Basilica (Szent István Basilica). 42 Somló. 167 tourist traps. 19. 20 Hajós Alfréd Nemzeti Sportuszoda. 66. 17–18 jewelry. 32 Turkish traces. Margaret’s Abbey. 40–43 Turkish traces. 76 senior travelers. 150 Szentendre. 37 Titanic Film Festival. József. 37. 15. 160. 62. 80 Trafó Bár Tangó (music venue). 31 Inner City Parish Church. 87 smoking. 66–80 antiques. 32 Sighi@oara’s clocktower. 66 ceramics. 51. 47. 80 sports. 56 St. Stephen’s Basilica (Szent István Basilica).178 Index religious sites (cont. 168 Schulek. 9. 53 Retro Beach. 150 Soviet War Memorial. 167 Serbian Embassy. Stephen’s Basilica Szent István tér. Anne’s Church. 160–161 special interest tours. 64 tourist offices. 87 Gyermekvasút. 167 taxis. 67–70 perfumes. 24 UNESCO sites. 167 Tihany. 18 Szabadság tér. 40–43. 13–14 Siófok. guided. 22–25 baths. 64 taxes. Stephen’s Day. 150. public. 30–33 U Új Szinhaz. 51 Rippl-Róna. 14–15 tickets. See St. 22–48 Art Nouveau. 26–29 coffee houses. 147 shoes. 51–52 Széchenyi Fürdó Baths. 57 shopping. 80 Siege Street. 89. 28 Palatinus Strandfürdó. 167–168 telephones. 4. 29. 31 summer bars. 80 University Church. 155 Szekszárd. 43 Socialist Party headquarters. 160 . 62. 89. Frigyes. 79 Great Market Hall. 167 Tokaj. 20 Szent István. See Saint Stephen I Szent István Basilica. 77. 144. 121–123 Summer on the Chain Bridge. 153 Eger’s Thermal Baths. 42–43 Serbian Orthodox Museums. 31 Rudas Gyógyfürdó és Uszoda. 38–39 revolutionary Budapest. 4. 147 Rózsadomb. 87 secondhand stores. 7. 66. 62. 134 Trafó House of Contemporary Arts. 56 Ruszwurm Cukrászda. 126. 11. 166 toys. 11. 71–72. 3. 59 St. 132 St. 166–167. 89 Terror House. 147 Szent Gellért. 57 Great Synagogue. 141–142. 131 trains. 48 Roosevelt tér. See Saint Stephen I Suleiman the Magnificent. 71–72 art. 76 “Shoes on the Danube Promenade” memorial. 63–64 Pécs Cathedral. 17 wine and spirits.) Frankel Leó út Synagogue. 29 in Siófok. 52 University Church. 9 Szépmüvészeti Múzeum. 87. 62 St. 48 Fogaskerekü. 75 maps. 161 Sziget Klub. 75. 3. 155 Rumbach utca Synagogue. 155 Unicum (liqueur). 161 Saint Stephen I (Szent István). 126. 153 skiing. 150 Toldi (cinema). Matthias Church. 150 Sziget Festival. 52 Szent Jobb Chapel. Margaret’s Abbey. 167 Tirol strudels. 158 Gellért Baths. 168 Turkish baths. 52. 73–75 folk art. 78–79 on Váci utca. 160 toilets. 84 spas. 52–53 Rose Hill. See also baths special events. 160 St. 72–73 fashion. 57 Magdalene Tower. 89 Statue Park. King. 110. 163 Children’s Railway. 59 St. 63 S safety. 133. 90 St. 90 St. 90. Matthias Church. Anne’s Church. 34–37 Communist Budapest. 33 Kazinczy utca Synagogue. 167. 161 Royal Palace (Visegrád). 32 Rumbach utca Synagogue. 163–164 Treaty of Trianon. 39. 153 Time Wheel. 13 Széchenyi Gyógyfürdó és Uszoda. 14 Szeremley. 63. 90 Lukács Gyógyfürdó. 77 best bets. 4. 131 Roman ruins. 167 Socialism. 27 Széchenyi tér. 167 St. 27–28.

136. 53 Fisherman’s Bastion. 151 Virág Judit Mü-terem Gallery and Auction House. 24. 104 Govinda Vegetáriánus Étterem. 147 Víziváros. 92. 143 Le Méridien Budapest. 9 Cari Mama Pizzeria. 104 Fausto’s Osteria. 92. 99 Callas. 59 Csalagány 26. 104 Fészek. 100 Kádár Étkezde. 32. 9 TV Tower. 136. 83. 92. 25. 87 Madách Imre tér. 85 Zsolnay (store). 136. 23 in Castle District. 87 Libegó. 136. 36. 161–162 websites. 151 Restaurant Index Albárdos. 92. 136. 164 in Castle District. 144 Uhu Villa. 105 Jardin de Paris. 92. 100–101 Kafana Grill Restaurant. 100 Holdudvar. 64 Chain Bridge. 103 Café Kör. 39 Vidámpark (amusement park). 51 Café Gerbaud. 104 Gül Baba Szeráj. 155 Vigádo tér. 73 Astoria. 136. 105 Il Terzo Cerchio. 104 Fülemüle. 84 Vienna Gate. 144 W walking around. 144 Ramada Plaza. 141 City Panzió Ring. 59 Dobó tér. 136. 98 Buena Vista. 132 Városligeti Müjégpálya. 120–121 wine country. 57. 118 Kacsa Vendégló. 53 Zsolnay Museum. 39 Corvin Kávézö. 80 wine bars. 59 Arany Kaviár. 144 Medosz. 136. 142 Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest. 104–105 Indigo. 144 NH Hotel. 52 Biarritz. 103 Z Zala Villa. 36 Café Bouchon. 157 in Esztergom. 143 Lánchid 19. 92. 143 Goa. 143 Hotel Astra. 64 views Angelica. 100 Három Testvér. 53 Villány. 155 Accommodations Index Andrássy Hotel MaMaison. 66. 143 Marriott. 143 Kempinski Hotel Corvinus. 98 Bock Bistro. 61 St. 31 Haxen Király. 144 Sofitel Budapest Maria Dorottya. 141 Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget. 136. 92. 64. 103 Corvin Kávézö. 92. 98 Borbiróság. 136. 58–59 Vörösmarty (cinema). 56 from Margaret Island. 140 Atrium Fashion Hotel. 92. 101 Két Szerecsen Kávéház. 105 Károlyi Étterem-Kávéház. 90 Szentendre. 148–151 Wunderlich winery. 140–141 Carlton Budapest. 142 Easy Hotel. 35 Déryné. 3–4 Minaret. 35 Café Gusto. 84–85 Vasúttörténeti Park. 99 Gerlóczy Kávéház. 105 . 116 Café Alibi. 116 Café Farger. 37. 140 Art’otel. 90 Watertown. 143 Hotel Panda. 103 Artesano Spanyol Étterem és Tapas Bár. 104 Gresham Kávéház. 162. 92. 99 Cyrano. 58–59 weather. 33 Gundel. 72 Visegrád. 141 Danubius Health Spa Resort Margitsziget. 98 Arigato. 23. 87 János-hegy. 100 Hanna’s Kosher Kitchen. 173 wine. 140 Bar Ladino. 136. 157 Royal Palace. 141 Corinthia Grand Royal Hotel. Stephen’s Basilica. 117 Dunapark. 63 Fogaskerekü. 136. 160 Vörösmarty tér. 116–117 Centrál Kávéház. 155 Zsolnay tiles. useful. 59 Children’s Railway. 141 Danubius Health Spa Resort Helia. 98 Café Csiga. 140 Beatrix Panzió. 116 Belvárosi Vásárcsarnok. 98 Balletcipó. 141–142 Danubius Hotel Astoria. 147 waterpark. 136. 92. 92. 35–36 Chez Daniel. 17 Vajdahunyad Castle. 103. 13–14. 57 Carne di Hall. 105 Jelen (bar). 99 Firkász. 15. 142 Danubius Hotel Gellért. 140 Best Western Hotel Art. 147 Ferenciek tere. 136. 57. 99 Fuji. 102 Arcade Bistro. 136. 141 Citadella Hotel. 85 VAM Design Center. 98 Angelica. 64 Danube River. 103 Castro Bisztró. 136. 103–104 Deep Water. 92. 140 Boscolo New York Palace. 36 Bagolyvár. 37 Fausto’s Étterem. 92. 158 Watertower. 123 Iguana Bar & Grill. 37 Balás Villa.179 Index V Váci utca. 17. 23 Zoo. 142–143 Gerlóczy Rooms Deluxe. 11. 103 Baraka. 100. 144 Zara Boutique Hotel. 102–103 Arriba Taqueria.

108 Trattoria Toscana. 92. 107 Peppers! Mediterranean Grill. 106 Pampas Argentine Steak House. 92. 106 Miró Café. 102 Millennium da Pippo. 61 Mirror Café & Restaurant. 106 Okay Italia. 35. 85 . 37. 35 Nagyi Palacsintázója. 120 Spoon. 92. 107 Sirály. 92. 102 Remíz. 92. 92. 47 Matteo. 106 Mosselen. 92. 106 Oceán Bar & Grill. 107 Ristorante Krizia. 101 Kispipa. 106 Okuyama no Sushi. 106 Paris-Budapest Café. 106 Museum Cukrászda. 101 Kiskakukk. 108 Three Brothers. 63 Segal. 105–106 Maligán Borétterem. 108 TV Tower. 92. 102 Marxism. 101 Kóleves. 14 M!. 141 Nusantara. 101 Klassz. 101–102 Lanzhou. 102 Menza. 106–107 Pata Negra.180 Index Kisbuda Gyöngye. 107 Ruszwurm Cukrászda. 107–108 Taj Mahal. 92. 31 Tom George Restaurant & Café. 59 New York Kávéház. 79 Pozsonyi Kisvendégló. 143 Lou-Lou. 36 Momotaro Ramen. 119 Múvész. 102 Városligeti Sörsátor. 105 Lukács Cukrászda. 92. 42 Le Bourbon. 155 Vadrózsa. 107 Pick Márkaáruház.

p 18 both. p 27. p 13 bottom. p 155 (© Stephen L Saks). Many thanks to the hotels and venues featured that kindly provided the photographer with images. © Shutterstock. © Uhu Villa: p 144. Source: © Budapest Gyogyfürdói ZRT: p 3. Gresham Palace Budapest: p 142 bottom. Courtesy of Alamy: p 49 (© Kevin Foy).181 Photo Credits Photo Credits Front Matter Credits: i: © Bruce Yuan-Yue Bi/PCL. © Glenys Hart/Fotolibra. Courtesy of PCL: p 11 bottom (© Adrian Pope). Courtesy of Lánchid 19 Design Hotel: p 143 bottom. Courtesy of Gerlóczy Rooms Deluxe: p 142 top. . Courtesy of The Four Seasons Hotel. All images: © Bianca Otero with the following exceptions: © Kempinski Hotel Corvinus Budapest: p 143 top. p 28 bottom. p 160 (© Bruce Yuan-Yue Bi).

182 Notes Notes .

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...........555) To convert C to F: multiply by 1....................... Australia 61.............28 yards to meters.3..30 meters to feet......62 mile To convert.........56 Pints to liters..................................................22 Liters to gallons............. ........................... 4.35 Grams to ounces........ Ireland 353......... UK 44.......1..61 kilometers to miles........................ and then the local number............................. 1.54 centimeters to inches... ...................................035 Pounds to kilograms..................1............3 ft 1 mile = 1...91 meters to yards................ UK 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 US 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Europe 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 UK Metric (cm) 91 97 102 107 112 US 36 38 40 42 44 Europe 46 48 50 52 54 UK Metric (Ht cm) 109 122 140 147 152 157 US 4 6 8 10 12 14 110˚ F 100˚ F 90˚ F 80˚ F 70˚ F 60˚ F 50˚ F 40˚ F 32˚ F 20˚ F 10˚ F 0˚ F -10˚ F -20˚ F -30˚ C -10˚ C -18˚ C 0˚ C 10˚ C 20˚ C 40˚ C 30˚ C To convert..............multiply by Ounces to grams.... multiply by Gallons to liters.............4555 kilogram 1 gram = ....30 m 1 m = 3......62 1 ft = . To make a direct International call from Hungary: Dial 00 followed by the country code (US or Canada 1....... then the local number.45 Kilograms to pounds.... the area code..........04 ounce 1 kilogram = 2.......2...................... ............ multiply by inches to centimeters......39 feet to meters.......20 1 ounce = 28 grams 1 pound = ......09 miles to kilometers.....2 pounds To convert F to C: subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9 (.....76 .... UK or New Zealand 00..v To call Hungary from another country: Dial the international access code (US or Canada 011.................. .............55 ......6 km 1 km = .... New Zealand 64)... 2..... 28.8 and add 32 32˚ F = 0˚ C To convert....... Liters to pints...... Australia 0011) followed by the country code (36).....

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