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STOCK NO, 1906
When early man first began using the skins of animals, he probably just used them as blankets or shawl-poncho type clothing. But as he began to find more uses for leather and skins, he needed ways to hold the skins together. Simple thongs were used at first, to tie pieces together. Later, holes with laces were utilized, much as our shoe laces .. Today lacing can be as simple as that same shoe lacing or as intricate as a multi-thonq applique done on leather just for show. Like early man, we use most of the leather articles we create, so they must be durable. But today, we also insist that our creations be appealing to the eye as well. In this book I hope to show you a few types of lacing techniques which are both practical and attractive. There are a few things to remember when doing any type of lacing. Always lace with the outside of the project facing you. This is the side which everyone will see, so you want the lacing to be attractive on this side. Your lacing should be smooth and even throughout the entire project. Pull each stitch snug, not tight, and use the same tension on each stitch so they are all even. The lacing or stitching can either make or break a project. Lace usually has a front and a back side to it. Never twist the lace! Always keep the front side of the lace out on the outside of the project. I have a little trick I use for this when I'm using a flat needle. I call it speed lacing and it can be used for any lacing technique. After 1 push the needle through a hole or slit, I pull through four or five inches of lace, without turning loose of the needle, and then I stick the needle through the next hole or under the next stitch, whatever the next step is. The flat needle will keep the lace from twisting while you pull it through the last hole, and your hands are free. This saves time when you are working with a long piece of lace. You don't have to run the lace through your fingers before every stitch to make sure it's not twisted or fumble with the needle while you're pulling the lace through the hole. There is a lacing technique suited to every purpose. In deciding which technique to use, several things should be considered; such as the size of the project and the stress which the seams of this project will receive. Generally the smaller projects, coin purses, billfolds, checkbooks, clutches, etc., will need 3/32" wide lace. Larger projects, handbags, holsters, bowling bags, attaches, need lace which is 1/8" in width. Wider laces are usually used for buckstitching. Also the more intricate, or the more times the lace crosses the seam, the stronger the seam will be. But these rules of thumb are not cut in stone. I have seen some nice work with 3/16" florentine lace, double loop laced through 1/8" slits; and buckstitching, us.ing 5/32" buckstitchlace and straight slits will hold even the heaviest leather together. So when deciding which lace and lacing technique is best suited for your project, just make sure it is strong enough for the job, then use your imagination and the instructions in this book to guide you.
4 5 5 6 . .PUNCHING LACING HOLES Lacing Nippers 4. Inc.. .1 Round Hole Punch Overstitch Wheels Mini Punch. 6 6 7 7 7 8 8 8 9 9 10 11 11 12 14 15 16 17 . . . . . . .ing 01997 Tandy leather Company A Division of Tandycrafts.in. .. ... .yeNeedle Life Eye Needle SPLICING Cement Splicing Dry Splicing Splicing ona Single Thickness LACING TECHNIQUES The Whipst. . . .. Rotary Punch THREADING THE NEEDLES Two Prong Needle Hook and E. .ch The Running Stitch The Buckstitch . .it. . .. .. . .r Mexican Basketweave Double Loop Two-Tone Lacing Applique lac.Straight Slits Sing. . All rights reserved. . . . ..le Loop Lacing Double Loop Lacing Triple Loop Lacing Saddle Stitching Round Braido. . ngled Slits A The Buckstltch . . .19 . ..
ao. The 1/16" Single-Prong Chisel chisels are used for punching saddle stitching slits. place first prong in last slit punched and punch again. the first sl it shoutd be 1/8" from the corner slit. Of course. THONGING CHISELS Thonging Chisels are so called because they look like small chisels. (See naxt ) Begin next slits with the mUlti-prong angled chisel. Always punch on a rubber proteeto board to prevent damage to chisliis. as with straight slits. Then punch imprassions with II If slits do not come out avenly spaced at the nex t corner. They also come in angled chisels for slanted lacing slits. Continue punching to nexl corner. four-prong.. Properly align succeeding slits. There are several ways to do this and many tools available to the leathercrafter or hobbyist. Place first prong in last slit punched and punch again. Space the first sl it from tha corner the same distance as between the prongs of the ch isel. Continue in this manner. Punch corner slit. Be sure all edges are lined up and that the pu nch is held straight. adjust slightly by usl ng the sinlOIlI-DlrOrlQ chisel as shown When going around slightly rounded areas. six-pronq and eight· prong punches and they punch slits ranging in size from 1/16" to 5/32" in width. adjust the spacing slightly by the 5i ngle·prong chisel When going around slightly rounded areas.. always turning leather clockwise. Turn laather clockwise and repeat on next corner. The 3/32" chisels are for 3/32" lace. such as a pocket. If you are using a 118" chisal. these rules are not hard and fast as stated in the introduction.:. If you are using a 1/8" ch isel. They punch lacing slits instead of round holes. "-. Set the bonom of the singh'·prong chisel 51ightly to the left of the corner and at approl( imalely a 150 angle to the vertical guida line. otherwise . be sure all edges are lined up and the chisel is held straight. and punch all four corners. 10 avoid punching through the edge of an inside ieee such as II . Placa third prong of multi·prong chisel over last silt.PUNCHING LACING HOLES Before you can begin lacing. Can· tinue punching to next corner. Turn chisel slightly so the last prong is on the guide line and tip the ch isel so the last prong makes II faint impression and repeat the process until agai n on a straight area.. Turn chisel slightly so the last prong is on the guide line and tip the chisel so the last prong makes a faint impression and repeat the process until agai n on a straight area. After punchi nil Ihe corner sl its. this tip may be of help. Begin by punching all corner slits. three-pronq. Then punch the impressions with a . Place third prong of multi·prong chisel oyer last slit.lhe first slit after Ihe corner should be 1/8" from the corner slit. When punching through several layers of leather. begin next slits with a multi·prong chisel. you have to punch precisely spaced lacing holes or slits in the leather. to be sewn with thread. 1/8" for 1/8" lace and 5/32" for buck stitch or florentine lace. this tip may be of help. (See next do not come out avenly OIlthe next corner. These chisels come in single-prong. Space the first slit from the corner the same distance as between the prongs of the chisel (always measure between the bottom of the 51 its). To properly ~Iign succeeding slits. millht punch through the edge a an inSide piece.
It punches the holes more accurately and rapidly than could be accomplished with the mini-punches. Lacing Nippers punch a 1/8" lit.g chisel can be used at an angle to prevent cutting the edge. USE A #0 MINI PUNCH TO PUNCH AROUNO CURVES AND TO ADJUST SPACING AT CORNERS. LACING NIPPERS A pair of Lacing Nippers is a handy tool for punching those areas which won't lay flat against a table. Pull out the punch and move over. simply trim off the corner edge as shown in example A. After the gussets have been cemented in place. the slits are usually punched beforeinstall. Replace tubes bV pushing tube in hole and then placing the punch on apiece of leath er 0 r protecto board and hitting punch with a mallet. the prong would cut through the edge of the pocket. The purpose of punching lacing slits in the carved back before cementing thB pockets in place is to insure proper spacing and easier punching through the total thick ness. Example A: This shows the edge of the pocket coming directly in the center of the slit. . When cementing the pockets in place (after the back has been punched) often the edge of the pockets will be in the center of a slit . sic ipping this slit as in Step 2.. Example B: Here. Then carefully trim off the corner edge of the pocket as shown. the edge of the pocket sufficiently covers the slit so that the single·pron. Punch up to this slit in Stap 1. USB the nippars to punch the slits in the gussets. Place the top "tooth" in the pre-punched slit and the bottom tooth on the gusset and squeeze the hand las. This is undesireable. You can't reach these places easily with b chisel. / / USE NIPPERS WITH OVERSTITCH WHEELS (Page6) FOR EITHER STRAIGHT OR ANGLED SLITS.lng the gussets. Should the edge be cut.. and when punched. Study the suggestions presented above. Always remember to use a protecto board under your leather to protect your tools. REPLACING TUBES Remove tubes with pliers. 4-IN-1 ROUND HOLE PUNCH This punch is used in the same way as the multi-prong punches except it punches 1/16" round holes instead of 51 its . When making handbags or cases or really any project. grasp the shoulder of the tube with pliers and pull. (It Is II good idea to scribe a light guide line around the gusset to be sure the slits come out straight.. The punching tubes are replaceable. like handbag gussets. Scribe a guide line with wing dividers as with chisels. Insure proper spacing by placing the end tube in the last hole punched. Adjustments have to be made to prevent this.THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE THE SAME FOR BOTH STRAIGHT AND ANGLED CHISelS THIS VIEW SHOWS TOP AND EDGE OF THE PROJECT THIS VIEW SHOWS EDGE AND BOTTOM OF THE PROJECT POCKET EDGE CAN BE TR TO EXPOSE SLIT IN LINING AND CARVING LEATHER Sometimes it is preferable to punch lacing slits in the back of a project before assembling the inside parts.
Place the punch in position on leather and strike with a mallet. TURN TO SADDLE STITCHING INSTRUCTIONS FOR FURTHER USES OF OVERSTITCH WHEELS MINI PUNCH The Mini Punch is an all-purpose hole punch with interchangeable tubes from zero to five. Place tube on guide line with anvil under the leather and squeeze the handles. It comes in a set with one handle and 6 tubes. The numbers indicating size tell you how many stitches per inch each wheel marks.refully along guide line. . Grip the tube with the pliers and turn ccurrtar-clockwise. The head of the punch has six tubes radiating out like the spokes of a wheeL With a turn of the wheel you can change hole sizes. If leather seems a bit tough it will help to swing your hand to the right and left as you squeeze the handles. a number & wheel will mark 5 stitches to the inch. Remove lubes with a pair of pliers. For lacing holes the number zero or number one is generally used unless using latigo or buckstitch lace. Size 0 Size t Size 2 Size 3 Size 4 S 5/64" 3/32" 7/64" 1/S" 5/32" 1 •• TUBE SIZES • •• Use the mini punch with the 4-IN·l Punch to go around curves Or 10 adjust spacing Or use 10 punch all holes after marking positions with an Overstitch Wheel. Scribe a guide line with wing dividers. with a punch on the end. Hold the wheel in posttion shown at lett. Extra handles are available. They are available in several sizes. etc. Apply firm downward pressure to make distinct impressions. as in saddle stitching. Replace the tube by turning it clockwise. You squeeze the handles to punch the hole. Not all rotary pu nches changeable tubes. Be sure you protect the tips with a protecto board or piece of leather. Push wheel ca. For instance.OVERSTITCH WHEELS &ribe a light guide line with wing dividers first. Rotate wheel until desired lube size is over the anvil. It can also be used in conjunction with the Rotary Punches as it can reach many places a Rotary Punch can't. These tools are used to mark spacing for holes when you are not using multi-prong punches or are using an awl to punch holes. ROTARY PUNCH A Rotary Punch is a ptier-like tool. a number 6 will mark 6 holes to the inch. Remove tubes from punch with a pair of pliers just as you removed the mini punch tubes. Size 1 Size 2 Size 3 Size 4 Size 5 Size 6 3/32" 7/64" 1/8" 5/32" 11/64" 3/16" • ••••• TUBE SIZES hilVe inter- NOTE: The 6·IN·' Rotary Punch tubes are interchangeable with Mini Punch tubes.
THREA. If this is unsuccessful. take a pin and run it into the stub of lace (at angle) and Unscrew counter clockwise. HOOK AND EYE NEEDLE This is also a flat lacing needle. unscrew stub with a palr of small tweezers. Remove the lace by sprin9. Life Eye Needles can be used again and again.' ing the prongs open and pulling the lace off the prcngs. It is inexpensive and can usually be used for several lacing jobs before it is discarded. and l/B"laces while the large size.c8. Should needle fail to thread properly. The small size is recommended for 3/32" Cut tha laci n9 to a sharp point as shown hem. but do not sk lva it. 5/32" buck stitch and even latigo laces. If lacing accidently breaks even with the eye of this needle. To remove the lace from the needle eye. This can be removed with a pin. spring the needle open as shown in Step 2. When you start lacing. twist the lace counter clockwise. LIFE EVE NEEDLES These are solid brass round needles. To remove the lace. much preferred professional craftsmen. a needle is advantageous when lacing. This needle is also considered to be disposable. spring the naadla open and insert the end of the 18. The lace passes through a hole or eye in the end of the needle before it is gripped by the prongs and hooks.DING THE NEEDLES Just as in sewing. 1 Spring the threading needle open. . the lace is usually stiff enough to go through the holes without a needle. Prepare the lace as in the instructions above. there is probably material lodged in the eye. is used for larger laces such as 3/16" florentine. This helps to insure the lace will not slip out of the needle when you pull it through the leather. Below we will show you how to thread three diffirent kinds of lacing needles. called the Latigo Life Eye. Close the needle on the lace and sq ueeze the needle with a pa ir of pliers so that the prongs pierce the lace. end of the Point the skived end as shown. The Two-Prong Needle is the most widely used lacing needle. TWO PRONG NEEDLE This is a flat lacing needle recommended for 3/32" and 1/8" flat laces. It's like trying to push a piece of thread through cloth without a needle. but after going through a holes it soon becomes too soft and pliant to push through. as their imply. Now insert the pointed end of the lace in the open end of the naedle and twist clockwise several times until the lace is firmly secured. Smooth side of lace.in place. It is recommended for 3/32" flat lace. smooth side up as shown. Pass the lace through the eye of the needle. 4 lnsert thu pointed end of the lace into the needle. Unlike the two previous needles. Close the needle on the lace and squeeze genlly with a pair of pliers so the prongs pierce the lace and lock .
as instructed. Well. Skivll the end of the old lace on the top side. • - . You will have to splice in a new length of lace. On thin leathers. Allow cement to dry until tacky. cement splicing must be used. maybe even several times. Use a sharp knife and very. The illustrations are on double loop lacing. SPLICING ON A SINGLE THICKNESS Generally when lacing on a single thickness of leather. CEMENT SPLICING This method is commonly used by leathercrafters and manufacturers of lace as well. allowing about 3/4" to remain. Use dry splicing technique as shown above. Tuck tbsendot the old lace between the leathers and lace over il with the new lace so that it is caught and won't show. Now beg. under the bight as before next stitch if you are not lacing. n project with Push need Ie or go to the double loop lacl n9 the rest of you r the new leng'th of lace. Carefully apply craftsman cement to the skived ends. cut off the end at. Skive the end of the new lace on the bottom side. DRY SPLICING This type splicing can be used on any type lacing as long as you have more than one layer of leather. 2 yards of lace will not go completely around it. to lock them in place. very carefully slit the edge of the leather down to below the lacing holes and covering about three holes. dry splicing can be done. Continue lacing around your project with new lace. It is easy and doesn't take as much time as cement splicing. however on thicker leathers. unless your project is very small and you are doing a very simple stitch. but it is done the same way regardless of the type lacing being done. Sometimes this is just not possible. an angle. Often on a spool of lace a piece will be spliced in to fill the spool. Adhere skived ends together.SPLICING When you lace a project it is generally recommended that you use no more than 2 yards of lace at a time. it is recommended that you put enough lace in your needle to complete the area without splicing. This is because pulling the lace through all those holes wears the lace and may weaken it. Pull the old Iace up tight. Continue laci ng and Iace over ends. It also frays the edges so that the lace doesn't look good toward the end of the project.
For example. a few stitches.) You should load no more than 2 yards of lace in your lacing needle at a time as lace can fray and wear from being pulled through the holes. 2. 000 o °Oif I Begin lacing just as you did fa. always lace with the front or outside of the project facing you! THE WHIPSTITCH RECOMMENDED USAGE: Small project. but you will begin i1) the first hole and also take the next stitch in the fi rst hole (twice 1 the first hole in the bac. as shown. gO through last hole in front twice. There are two rules to remember when lacing. Bring the needla over the edge ot the leather to the tronl of the project and through next halo over from beginning hole. Begin lacing in between the two layers of leather. The Running Stitch uses 1'1. Pull the first loop tight. if your project measures 2 ft. of tho lace. as shown. then thread it through the slit in the end of the lace and through the opposite hole. Push needle through next hole. Thora will be one unlaced hole between your very first and your last stitch.s with little stress on seams or as decorative edging.ACING T CHNIQUES Lacing puts the finishing touch to handmade leather articles. Ieee tight to take loop.. or 3 ft. Continued On page 10.. With the following instructions. as shown. of lace. . 1. Continue tacing in a spiral. of lace. The Whip Stitch uses 3'1..times that amount of lace. plus a little practice. you will need 3'1. Spread the two leather layers and lace through the last hole. Thread the needle and then pierce the opposite end of the lace with a sharp knife leaving a 51 it of 1/8". be sure to catch the beginning tail of lace under the next few stitches 0 n the back of the leather. your technique and proficiency. through the slit and out through tho opposite hole in front. Cut off the a sharp knife and with a smooth- In a case where you don't lace cornpletely around a project. you will begin lacing a bit diffarently. Whan Whip Stitching on a single thickness of leather. times that amount of lace. End by running the needle back und er the last few stitches on the back 01 the leather. no matter what technique you are using. Use 3/32" holes and 3/32" lace. Lace around the project leaving a loose loop in th" next to the last hole. being careful no t to twist the lace. only the second time bring the lace up betwaen the leathers and back. you will need 1'1. up between the leathers and through the 1st loose loop as shown. Whip Stitch.) When lacing. Pull stitch up tight. Leave about 1/4" at the end where you slit the lace.k When tying off. THE RUNNING STITCH RECOMMENDED USAGE: Small projects with little stress on seams.. if your project measures 2 ft. around the laced part.en9th of lace to the length of your project. You will still begin between the leathers. tightening the lace as you go. How you lace. you will soon be doing a professional job of lacing. the Push needle through the next hole from the back. has a great deal of importance in the overall appearance of the finished product. around the laced part. over the end PULL DOWN TIGHT ~ Pull the end at the slack out of the last end of the lace with tap all laCing flat laced mallet. Pull stitch up tight to lock the lace. For example. or 7 ft. times the l. as shown.times the length of lace to the length of your project. Use 3/32" holes and 3/32" lace.
~~~.. begin lacing between the leathers.'l BEGINNING ~~ FLESH SIDE Pull all stitches up tight and pull the end of the lace tight. pu!li ng the stitches tight as you go. Cut off the end of the lace close to the leather and tap all lacing flat with a smooth mallet. begin lacing between leathers in second sl it in back piece. ~ ~ ENDING ~~. 1/8" or 5/32" angled slits with same width lace. Spread the leathers. pulling stitches tight as you go. ~ -)} THE BUCKSTITCH RECOMMENDED USAGE: Small projects with little stress on seams or as decorative edging.st hole in the back. begin lacing from back side in first slit. if your project measures 2 ft. Rememberfor Buckstitching you musthave an even number of slits.continued from page 9. begin lacing from back r side in first hole. BEGINNING O~/~~E ENDING When you don't lace all the way arou nd a project. Lace to the last slit and leave a loose loop in the second to the last slit. go through next to last slit in back only and bring the lace up between the leathers and back a few stitches. Push needle through next slit. V/ / When tying off. End by running lace under last stitch on back. BEGINNING STITCH Pull this stitch up tight and continue lacing in and out of the slits. Then lace through the second hole (second time through back holel and continue lacing as usual. then back through second slit in end of lace. Come through fi. ooo~ BEGINNING STITCH /'~ III ~ Pu II rh is stitch up tight and continue lacing in and out the holes.THE RUNNING STITCH. Pull all stitching up tight and pull the end of the lace tight. Then lace through second slit (second time through second slitl and contl nue lacing as usua I. around laced part.. Pu II stitch up tight to lock the lace. bringing needle up between the leathers. .:. When not lacing all the way around a project. bei n9 earefu I not to twist the lace.. and through first hole in front. from front. Then come up through first slit in back. go through next to last hole in back only and bring the lace up between the leathers and back a few stitches. through slit in lace and through first slit in front. For example. FLESH SIDE When using the Buckstitch on a single thickness. Use 3/32". of lace. ( Push needle through last slit. End by running lace under last stitch on back. When tying off. push need Ie back through next to the last hole. then back through second hole and through slit in end of lace. ~ U jJf BEGINNING STITCH Pull the loose loop tight and continue pulling all the slack out of the lace. FLESH SIDE When using the Running Stitch on a single thicknoss. you will need 5 ft. ~e: . push needle back through next to the last slit. Spread the leathers. through slit in tho lace. Push need Ie through last hole. bringing needle up between the leathers. Buckstitch with angled slits uses approximately 2'h times the length of lace to length of project. Cut off the end of the lace close to the leather and tap all lacing flat with a smooth mallet. in second hole in back only.
. Lace through 2nd sl it.igh1 and lace back through first slits of both lea·thers. of project. Pull up snugly. as shown in dr. BEGINNING 7 --Pull all stitches tight.. ..nole thick ness. around laced pan. Hold with flnge. Pull up snugly. When you reacha corner. through the threa corner holes twice each. N"te -. Do not twist lace.. Continued on page 12. This keeps the grain side of tha lace out on both sides of the project. Use 3/32" slits with 3/32" lace. When using the Buckstitchon a 5. but snug as they must be adjusted when c"npleting steps 8·16. Be sure smooth side of lace faces you. Than come up through first slit in back.. begin lacing between leathers in second slit in. Lace last sl it. .. where little lace is required to cover the "raw" edge. 1/8" or 5132" slits with same width laea. of lace. Turn needle and go back through next s1.emember for iBuckstitching... of lace. Straight Slits -Begin lace as shown co rrect sld es of Iace.awin05. lace. laci..k only and bring the lace up between the laathers and back a few s ti tc hes. Begin at top through front of end.. Lace back one slit onlyl and push needle up leathers.. When not lacing all the way around a pro] act. These first 2 stltches shou Id not be tight.1009 W' Fold end up and loop lace around as shown. the back. above. End by ru nning lace under last strtch on back. Continue lacing in th is fashion until you reach corner hole. Lace to loop in through (on back between beginning stitch and leave a nax t to last stitch. Then tace through second slit (second time through second 51 it) and continue laci ng as usual.eogtn of the project. Single Loop Lacin 9 uses 6% times more lace than the '. Use 3/32". before. with tha flesh side up. For example.. Continue you 9". you will need 4 ft. Push needla under lace assh own .0 through next to last slit in bat. For example.it as shown.KSTITCH RECOMMENDED USAGE: Small projects with little stress on seams or as decorative edging. Lace to the beginning. Continue lacing: as. T a stitc hes flat with a mallet.:. tying oft~ 9. Pull first stitch tight. you will need 13 ft.s until 151 sti tch is t igh tened. as shown. Leave about . R.- '_- Pull first loop t.. if your project measures 2 ft.. FLESH SliDE When. pun the loose loop tight and conti nue pull ingall the 51ack auto f the lace.. . Buckstitch with straight slits uses approximately 2 times the length of project.. through sUt in end af lace and through first sl it in front.=:-~- SI'NGLE LOOP LACING RECOMMENDED USAGE: Lightweight leathers or single thickness projects. Pu II stitches tight as Th ink ·of 1h is sutch as a spiral. around laced part. if your project measures 2ft... Cut off ends.n9. begin Jaci ng from back side in first slit. push side. you must have an even number of slits. then bac'k th rough second slit in and of lace. Don't forgel 10 go under the loop each time on the corners.THE BUC..
purses. Pull lacing up snug and adjust so that all of the stitches appear even. For example: If your project measures 2 ft. Once again go under the bight and pull the stitch snug. be sure to catch the beginning tail of lace under the first few stitches on the back of the leather. Double Loop Lacing uses 7-8 times more lace than the length of the project. as shown. go through last slit. of lace. Clutches. This forms a Push the needle under Ihe cross or bight. around laced part. • When lacing a corner. When ending. End by running the needle back under the last few stitches on the back of the leather. -.BLE LOOP LACING RECOMMENDED USAGE: 1 Medium size projects such as billfolds. stitch through the three corner holes twice each. . When you are not lacing completely around a project you will begin as in Step 9 of the Whipstitch on page 9..-Carefully cut off ends from the flash side. LACE THROUGH THREE CORNER HOLES TWICE EACH Pull the stitch under the bight snug but not tight. Beginning on front side of project. Hold the end of the lace down on the side. ng over the free. etc. Lace through the next slit. Tap lacing flat with mallet or roll under a wooden dowel.. up beBe sure lacing Adjust the stitches by pushing and working the lacing together with fingers as shown. DOU. pull the need Ie and lace through the 1 st slit. Use 3/32" or 1/8" lace with correspondingly sized slits. Follow the same procedures as in steps 1 and 2 making a cross or bight . When Single Loop Lacing on a single thickness of leather. lac. Lace through the next hole. Then come under first stitch as shown and continue lacing. under loop and then go through last slit in front only and come out between the leathers and back a few stitch 95. you will need 14-16 ft. Leave about W' of the lacing end and go on 10 the next slit.Push needle through slit. The end of the lace can now be released as it is new locked in place. Pu lithe stitch end you cross or t igh!.
back under the last few stitches on the back of the leather. Tap lacing flat with a mallet or roll flat with a wooden dowel. Come out between the leathers and back 8 few stitches.through bight On th e end of lace Pull any slack out of the first loop and adjust lacing with fingers to make all V ou r 51 itches appear equ al. In Step 4. Pull the end of the lacing down tight. Bring it up between the leathers and out between the lac ing. ENDING FLESH SIDE Wh en end in g. go through last under bight and then go through the last 51 it agai n. Ih rough front only. you can begin just a5 you did in Step 24. When ending. Make sure all stitches appear even and equally spaced. instead of holding the end down on the back. . When Double Loop Lacing on a single thick ness of leather. run the needle. Push needle through the las'! sl it as shown. J FLESH SIDE When vou are not lacing completely around a project. you will begin lacing as in Step 1 through 3. Carefu lIy cut off the end of this lacing. Trim oft. lay it along fhe edge of the leather and just lace over it.
end of lace as Pull end side. However. because it will cover thicker edges. Beg. lace through nO)<1 hole. • TWO OPEN IHOLES Use stvtus leathers. As with other typos of stitches. lace through next holo left. under TWO strands on front.TRIPLE LOOP LACING RECOMMENDED USAGE.ight. lace through next hole.pun stitch snug: lace under bight (cross) same as with double loop stitch. lace under b. Pull snug. under ONE strand on back side. adhesion.in removing shown. Pull snug. Pull stitch snug over end. out of hOle from hack Pull end from under lacing at tOp. tuck between leathers. you will need 18 feet of lace. loather. Heavier projects such as purses. the two some end. lace under bight. ONE strand on back. Lace to 2 open holes on front: one open hole on back. Trtrn . Continue lac in. Laca . lace goos under TWO strands on front. through first hole to right. Bogin as shown. For example: If your project mea. Splice same as for double loop. strands 13 Splice often as required. the front side of the project should be f~c'ng you.' sures two feet around laced part. briefcases and holsters. Triple Loop Lacing uses approximately 9 times more lace than the length of the project. Pull ond up BETWEEN Be SURE to maintain loops.g to start in9 po inl . to tocssn Pull end out of hole from break ing and spread cement back side.
lacing should be adjusted to give an even appearance. This marks . slack and Pull slack down through both loops. Ba su re to stab proper angle with the awl blade. Be careful not 10 pierce "AU with neadle "B". You will also need two harness needles.K aep tool tight against leather edges to insure a uniform gouge along the edge. Push one needle th rough hole and pu II until equal amount of thread is on eaeh side of leather. SADDLE STITCHING RECOMMENDED Saddle stitching for sewing two leather together. down Push on adjust. Moisten the gouged channels lightly with a damp sponge. awl. or USAGE: more method pieces of is the bast Use a Stitching awl to punch holes. L. Tap lacing around project and rub or roll for evsness. stitching groover. begin Continue tightening pulling stitchas. THREADING THE NEEDL.E J. position of awl holes to insure avan stitches.'€~~==I Usa the stitching groover and gouge a' channel arou nd the edges of the leather. Hold Push needla "A" through sacond hole from back side as shown. and run the overstitch tool all arou nd the channel on the front sida onlv.-~=====::=~~. e .Laee under bight through 1st loop.. Push needle "8" through second hole from front of leather. overstitch tool. unwaxed linen thread and beeswax or prewaxed thread. AI· ways push back side naedle through hole first. CarefullV push noodle through BOTH loops. Punch second hole with needles as shown above. hole and up Carefullv cut off end. Stab first nets with awl as shown abova. Gouge the leather on both sidllS. lacing with fingers to Go back to step 23 and pulling slack out of lace.ace through remaining between lacing at top.
Bring lacs to front 0 f leather. Continue stitch· ing around project to starting hole. Leave %" of lacing end tucked down between leathers. USB 1/8" or 3/16" lace respondi r1gly sized 51 its with corOr holes.sures 2 tt. then lace through the fourth silt for the second time. Complete stitching as eKplained in step 11. threads until all slack is To tighten the stitch grip threads as shown and pull into gouged channel. then lace through next open slit in line. around laeed part. Be careful not to mar leather. Each slit should be laced through twice. Round the both sides beveler. Cut needles off threads. Bring lace back Over to front side of leather and lace through fourth slit. Insert awl one hole back from last stitch and start new thread in this hole as axpia ined in step 4. For example: II your project mea. pull last stitch tight and tie threads together on top edge of leather as show n. Cut th reads off in stltehin g chan nel on both sides with a sharp knife.MEXICAN BASKETWEAVE RECOMMENDED USAGE: Use this stitch on any edge where a round bra ided effect is desired. you will need 18 ft. ROUND BRAID OR . Lace first first front and Lace around project until you reach or starting slit.Pull both taken up. Put needles on a new length of thread. then over and under and back two. through next to last slit again. continue lacing going under and over and forward three. Push needle and lace down between leathers then out the back through th ird slit. To cornptete stitching backstitch two holes from starting hole. . Lay project 0 n work surface and tap over all stitching with a mallet. Lace through slit again then bring lace to of leath er and ollertirst strand under second strand as shown. Continue stitching around project to startlnq hole. then cut otf both sets of threads as explained in step 12. 5 Round braid uses 9 times more lace Ihan the length 01 Ihe projecl. Push lace up under nearest strand and over next strand. Use equal tension with both hands. of [ace. If you are sewing and use up a full length of thread and have not reached the starting hole. Bring lace to frOnt of leather then lace through fifth slit. Bring lace over to front of leather then lace through second slit. Pull threads tight with each stitch. edges with of the leather on a bevel-9u edg9 Moisten the edges of the leather and burnish with a circle edge slicker. over next lace Push lace up under nearest strand and over next strand as in step 3. Bring lace over to front of ·Ieather and push lace through first slit. Go over the fi rst strand and under the second strand. Run overstitch wheel over all of the stitches this actually helps the ap· pearancs of any slightly irregular stitches.
Continue lacing to starting point. Pull this stitch snug but not tight. Trim sible. You will now hsve to splice with two new lengths of lace. Pull ends of laces ou t of slits and up between leathers. Push stylus down between the leathers and hook it over the ends of both laces. Fro m fro nt side. . lace th rough the next open slit.T. DOUBLE LOOP TWO TONE LACING RECOMMENDED USAGE: Medium size projects such as bill· fOlds. ners four either of'f excess lace as close 115 posNote: When lacing around cor lace through the corner slit times and through the slits on side three times each. (Splicing instructions shown on page 8 are basically the sam e for 2 color double loop lacing except that two lengths of lace must be added in.kside to pull light lace out of the slit. lace up under nearest Go over nex t st rand then down under strand on top as shown. stitch through the three corner slits twice remem ing to alternate between the colors of lace. it When lacing a corner. Bring lace over to fro nt of leather going under strand then through the last slit. . the • bight . Pu II light lace out of loop formed by dark lace. lace dark lace under formed by light lace. leave about %" of the lacing end. pull the needle and light color lace through the first slit. one on the back.h dark lace going under the bight formed by the Iight lace then on th rough the next 51 in I. skip one slit and lace through next slit from front. ngly sized 51 its. cor- Two color double loop lace takes approximately 4' of one color lace and 4' of another color lace for each foot of project length laced. Use 3/32" or 1/8" lace with respond. Pull the stitch under the bight snug bu t not tight.ine . lengths of different colored lace. Push lace th rough second slit. Lace through next open slit. instead of one. the needle with light lace under cross or bight formed bV the dark in steps 2 and 3. in the slit. then bring lace to front of lea ther. lace light lace through next slit in line. lace up under first strand and ave r next strand. Use modeling tool from bac. For example: if your project measures 2 ft. etc. pu '585. around laced part. lace through third slit. clutches.lm-"_ I . This will form a cross or "bight". Cut off ends of laces you have pulled out and tuck ends of laces butween the leathers. through bight on all Lace until only 5" or 6" of lacing remains. pushing the lace up between the leathers and out stitching on top. Follow the same procedures as in steps 4 and 5 wil. side by side. Beginning on front side of project . Th rae em ply 51 its should appear on the front side. you will need two 8ft. Pull the stitch snug. Push this needle under the first lace where it crosses over the edge of the leather. Pull the needle with dark color lace through second slit leaving "''' of the lacing end in the slit.
Tap lacing flat with a mallet or roll flat with a wooden dowel.Lace under bi. the dark lace is sh OWn On the outside. push the needle with dark lace through cross or bight formed in step 25. Push needle and dark lace through bight formed by light lace. leave " . Lay ends along the edge of the leather and Iace ovar them starti n9 w lth th e light lace coming from the back and going into the second hole in line from the front. 5. Push needle with dark lace through the last slit. . The light lace is shown on the inside in these instructions. When two color double loop lacing on a sin gle th ick ness of leather..s8 the cotors of the IKe in steps 27 through 30 if you end with dark lace going through the last sl it first. Carefully cut off the end of this lacing. When you are not lacing compllftely around a projllct you will begin lacing by pulling both colors of lace through the first slit as shown. Come up between the leathers and back a stitch. Pu II any 51ack out of the first loop and adjust lacing with fingers to make all your stitches appear equal. Come up between the leathers and back a stitch. Note: Reve.ght formed by dark Do not pull this stitch light. When ending. go through last slit with light lace as shown. When endino. Pull end of light lace down tight. ends. through front only. Push needle through the last slit as shown. Pu II the st itch tight. Make sure all your stitches appear equal. and 6. Bring it up bB1ween the leathers and out between the lacing. Push neadle with light laca through bight formed by dark lace and pull the stitch snug. 4. Carefully cu I off ends of lac ing. Push needle with light lace through last slit through front only. Continue lacing as shown in steps 3. run the two needles back und ar the last few stitches On the back of the leather. begin as you did in step 25.
as shown..-. Push needle up through bight as shown and pull snug but not tight. \ ----. \ \ Be sure to go through corner stitches. \ \ If you are lacing completely around a project.. . (second bight formed). I.. .APPLI UE LACING USAGE: RECOMMENDED Decorative stitch on belts. J \ \ . 9 . 7 _. 1/8" or 3/16" lace with correspondingly sized holes or slits. . 5.. This marks position of awl holes to insure even stitches To lace corners with the applique stitch.'- .. Use 3/32". bight on all Pull end of lace out of loop. Pull end of lace out of loop. It is important to keep the distance between the parallel rows of slits the same going around a corner as they are when lacing in a straight line... such as a tooled initial patch on a purse. pull needle and lace through first slit in top row. Lace through next slit in bottom. 5. '\ \ \\\~ I . Leave about 3/4" of lacing end in slit. This will form a cross or "bight". latching lacing end under stitch on back of leather. I I II \\~"""~~ II I. Pull stitch snug but not tight. and run the stitch tool around the channel on the front side only. I I I " ' --. leaving 3/4" of lacing end in slit. and 6. Can also be used to overlay one piece of leather on another. . Pull lace out of remaining slit from backside of leather which will leave four empty slits. I __ J . wallets. Cross over first stitch and lace through first slit on bottom row.. Continue lacing following the same procedures as in steps 4. \ I .-... -. Beginning from backside of leather. :. Lace under two stitches on the backside of leather and trim off excess.. ."""' . under cross or bight as Pull stitch under bight snug but not tight. . Lace up through next slit in top row. . Lace through next slit in bottom. " " II I I . Use modeling tool to pull end of lace free from first slit as shown.. Pull end of lace out of second slit in bottom row and second slit in top. . . You are now ready to splice in a new length of lace. Lace until 5" or 6" of lacing remains.. and 6. .. Lace through next slit in bottom row. set up parallel rows of slits as shown above.. . with one slit on the corner of the inside row and four slits on the outside row. then push needle and lace through second slit on bottom row. Moisten the gouged channels lightly with a damp sponge. corner slits twice each Lace through the three inside corner slits twice each and through the four outside corner slits once each. slit on top end under Push needle shown. I I I . ----. -----. . I I' ·· -----.I . Continue lacing following the same procedures as in steps 4.- '\ \ \ -Insert newly threaded needle up through next slit in top row. Lace under second bight as in step 5. purses. . Enlarge loop slightly with modeling tool. lace to starting point. Lace up through third again catching lacing stitch on back of leather. Lace up through second slit in top row. etc.
then trim off excess lace. Lace through remaining top slit then up through back of loop. Lace down through remaining slit pull tight. The Art of Hand Sewing Leather By AI Stohlman How to BuckstitcH By AI Stohlman #1944 #1946 • See your local Tandy Leather store for these books and more. Lace up through bight then down through front of loop. Tighten then trim off excess lace. . adjusting lace w nh fingers to make all your stitches appear Push needle under two stitches on backside of leather. Pu II tight. Pu II slack out of lace where it runs through loop and under bight. Do not pull lace tight.~-- _Continue lacing until you have one slit left on top row and one slit left on bottom row. Push beginning Iace under two stitches on backside of leather.