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Basic Climbing Knots

17/08/2008 20:43

Six Basic Climbing Knots
There are many knots, too many. But there is a minimum of 6 knots that will cover most situations. If you master these six knots and their variations you will have the tools that will help you to securely enjoy climbing, ski mountaineering and mountaineering. The figure 8 is used to tie yourself at the end of the rope and the munter hitch is a great way to belay. The fisherman knot allows you the tie two ropes together. The munter hitch and the prusik will allow you to perform an improvised rescue. With the clovehitch you can clip the rope into a carabiner at the anchor and the blocking knot will keep any rescue system releasable. Double fisherman The double fisherman knot is used to tie the end of two ropes together ( ie: to rappel) or to join a single cordelette into a loop ( ie: prusik loop) Coil the end of the rope twice around the second rope, crossing over the first coil to make the second one, then pass the end thru the coil. Repeat these steps with the second rope on the opposite direction.

Single Fisherman

Double Fisherman

Clove hitch The clove hitch is used to clip into a carabiner attach to an anchor without actually tying a knot, easy to adjust the length without unclipping. Easy to undo. In the middle of the rope create two loops in opposite side, overlap them and insert them in a carabiner. Or at the belay pass the rope thru the carabiner, take the loose end from under the

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Basic Climbing Knots 17/08/2008 20:43 rope tie to your harness. Munter hitch The best friction knot. The munter is clip it into a carabiner. Prusiks Always carry along with you a prusik loop.jpmountainguide. then fold the lower strand over the upper strand. Excellent method for belaying and lowering. better friction then any belay device but has tendency to create kinks in the rope.html Page 2 of 5 . Twist a coil on the rope. In rescue situation the Munter hitch combine with the blocking knot will keep the system releasable. Can easily be transform into a clove hitch. create an opposite loop and clip it into the carabiner. http://www. There is only one prusik but there are many variations. It will allow you to climb along a rope. to belay yourself while rappelling. to set up a z pulley system.

a load transfer and many other rescue system without this knot. new or old rope. icy. many variation of the prusik knot are not multi directional. 2 to 3 time or more depending the condition. Prusik Klemheist Bachman Prusik with Sling on Carabiner Prusik with Sling Bloking knots Also call Mule knot. http://www. It is a must know. wet. It will allow you to keep all your options open.jpmountainguide.html Page 3 of 5 . You can not perform a Z pulley sytem. Wrape the prusik around the rope. A very important knot.Basic Climbing Knots 17/08/2008 20:43 The original prusik is multi directional (must be 2 size smaller of the rope that its wrap around). a lower with a knot

com/climbing-knots.jpmountainguide.html Page 4 of 5 . http://www.Basic Climbing Knots 17/08/2008 20:43 Blocking knot with a Munter knot Always finish the blocking knot with an overhand safety knot Figure-Eight Figure-Eight on a bight: you can tie a figure eight in the middle of the rope to make a loop for clipping into an anchors. Water Knot Even if most slings theses days are sawn you must know how to do a water knot.

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