SALADS

balsamic
caramel
1 tbsp butter
2½ cups sugar
½ cup water
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
2 tsp salt
3 egg yolks
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
makes 1 quart

Looking through this book, it’s obvious that vinegar is
a big part of our ice creams—and our personality. It’s
a favorite ingredient because it adds an unexpected
savory twist, while helping offset the sweet richness
that’s usually found in ice creams. Jake is neither sweet
nor rich, at least not yet.
Prior to opening Humphry Slocombe, we knew
we had to do some kind of caramel flavor, but we also
knew that we didn’t want to do salted caramel, because
everyone had already done that. Enter balsamic vinegar,
which possesses natural caramel undertones anyway.
It’s become, you could say, one of our more divisive
flavors. When our guests ask for a sample of it by calling it
simply “Caramel,” their taste is often followed by a look
of confusion. We quickly figured out that guests weren’t
even registering the word “balsamic,” instead thinking it
was just a caramel ice cream. Of course, they were taken
back by the jarring explosion of vinegar.
Here’s a typical interaction at the shop.

Guest: “I’ll have the caramel.”

Sean: “You want the vinegar?”

Guest: “No, I’ll have the caramel.”

Sean: “OK, one vinegar?”

Guest: “Actually, just the caramel would be great.”

Sean: “The caramel is vinegar.”

Guest: “Ohhh, OK, I guess I’ll try that.”

[Guest tastes, realizes it is caramel and vinegar.]

Guest: “Love the vinegar.”
We now write it on our flavor board as BALSAMIC

caramel and everyone lived happily ever after.
cont’d

89

In a large, heavy-bottomed, nonreactive saucepan over
medium heat, melt the butter with 1½ cups of the sugar.
Watch carefully; as the mixture begins to melt and darken
around the edges, stir the sugar with a heatproof spatula to
incorporate it. It will look a little sandy, but that’s OK. Continue cooking until the caramel takes on a deep amber color
and is a smooth liquid, about 15 minutes.
Immediately add the water to stop the cooking. Caramel
can go from being a perfect, smooth brown color—dare we
say mahogany?—to being burnt and smoking in a matter of
seconds. Be very careful when adding the water, because the
caramel will splatter when the water hits it, and blisters on
your hands just aren’t cute.
After the water is in, heat gently, still over medium,
stirring until incorporated and the caramel is a smooth liquid
again. Now you work just as you would with your usual custard base: Add the cream, milk, and salt and cook, stirring
occasionally, until the mixture is hot but not boiling.
Fill a large bowl or pan with ice and water. Place a large,
clean bowl in the ice bath and fit the bowl with a fine-mesh
strainer.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the egg
yolks and the remaining 1 cup sugar until well blended.
Remove the cream mixture from the heat. Slowly pour
about half of the hot cream mixture into the yolk mixture,
whisking constantly. Transfer the yolk mixture back to the
saucepan with the remaining cream mixture and return it to
medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula
and being sure to scrape the bottom of the saucepan so it
doesn’t scorch, until the liquid begins to steam and you can
feel the spatula scrape against the bottom of the pan, 2 to
3 minutes.
Remove the custard from the heat and immediately pour
it through the strainer into the clean bowl you set up in the
ice bath. Let cool, stirring occasionally.
When the custard has totally cooled, cover the bowl
tightly and chill in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or
preferably overnight. Right before you are ready to freeze
the custard, add the vinegar (it will curdle the mix if allowed
to sit). Transfer the custard to an ice cream maker and spin
according to the manufacturer’s instructions. (Don’t pull your
hair out if it’s not solidifying all the way in the machine; this
is one of the softer ice creams in the book, and the freezer
can finish the job.) Transfer to an airtight container, cover,
and freeze until it reaches the desired consistency. It will
keep for up to 1 week.

91

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