Index

Section 1: Introduction, Liability Notice Installing Sprocket on a Freewheel…………….Page 2 Section 2: Installing Sprocket on Coaster Brake Hub….....Page 9 Section 3: Installing Motor………………………………..Page 14 Section 5: Installing the Chain……………………………Page 20 Section 6: Installing the Kill Switch and Throttle…………Page 22 Section 7: Gas Feeder line…………………………………Page 23
GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS OPERATING SUGGESTIONS………………………………...….Page 25 STARTING AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS…………...….Page 25

Accessory Kit Installation…………………………………..Page33

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Livefastmotors.com (CJR Imports, LLC)
Installation Instructions
Congratulations on choosing your new Livefastmotors motorbike kit. To provide you the best possible experience, we offer these instructions to guide your way to motorbike enjoyment. Please read through the manual before beginning installation. Happy motoring!
WARNING: All persons by purchasing a motorized vehicle, engine kit, or individual parts from CJR IMPORTS LLC/LIVEFAST MOTORS, or using these instructions which are provided as suggestions only, agree to the following disclaimer: Operating this motorized bicycle or bicycle engine kit, or use of individual parts, involves the risk of serious bodily injury or even death. The buyer and user accept total responsibility for any and all vehicle operation or use that may lead to personal injury, economic loss, social distress, other losses, costs and damages. Seller is not responsible for injuries and or damages of any kind resulting from operating this motorized bicycle, engine kit, or use of individual parts or instructions. Always have a qualified mechanic inspect your vehicle before operating your vehicle

Section 1: Installing Sprocket on a Freewheel
STEP 1. Take an inventory of the contents of your kit. There is a list inside the box of the entire kit (The engine kit you ordered will determine the contents). Note: Locktite threadlocker is recommended on all bolts. It keeps them from vibrating loose during operation of the motor.

STEP 2. Livefastmotor kits come with a 48 tooth sprocket. 48 Tooth Sprocket : Gather the nine bolts, nine flat washers, nine locking washers, nine nuts, the two rubber joint binders, and the two metal backing plates. Note: Sprockets arrive unpainted. You may paint yours to match your frame. Also available from Livefastmotors: the 40 tooth Speed Sprocket. 2

STEP 3. Remove the rear wheel from your bike. Note: This is a freewheel installation.

STEP 4. Place the sprocket on the wheel hub to check for fit. Notice that the holes should fall between the spokes. The nine hole sprocket works very well with the 36 spoke wheel. On a 28 Spoke wheel it may be necessary to file the holes slightly to keep the spokes from binding with the bolts.

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STEP 5. Notice the hump on the bearing housing. The sprocket should slide over this and rest against the spokes Make a 1/16 inch line all the way around the center hole and then file the line away. This will give you an almost perfect circle. Repeat if necessary. Take your time and your sprocket will be a perfect fit.

STEP 6. Take both joint binders and with scissors, make a cut centered between two of the holes so they can be placed inside the spokes and around the hub. DO NOT cut in half. Cut only one side of both binders.

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Special Note: The 48 tooth sprocket has a bevel and many people are not sure which side faces the wheel. The answer is either. You want to be sure you have chain clearance with the tire. Close to the tire is good - rubbing the tire is bad. Choose the

way that allows you to line up the chain the best. Note: On the OCC Schwinn Chopper, it will always be with the teeth closer to the wheel.

STEP 7. Slide both joint binders through the spokes and around the wheel hub axle.

STEP 8. To check for center, take a piece of string and tie a loop in one end. Slip the loop over the axle and pull towards the sprocket teeth. With a pencil, make a mark on the string at the end of the tooth. Rotating the string around the sprocket, the mark should be at the same place on each tooth. If it is, you have a centered sprocket. 5

STEP 9. Some kit builders have used this optional method of setting their sprocket: If you choose to use the 5 minute epoxy glue to hold your wheel in center, you must have a level wheel stand (bucket) and you need to work quickly. After mixing the epoxy on a piece of cardboard, spread some on the wheel hub around the bearing housing. Then place the sprocket onto the wheel hub. Move to next step QUICKLY.

STEP 10. Make sure the holes fall between the spokes. Check that the sprocket is centered using your string. Once the sprocket is centered, leave it until the epoxy is set.

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STEP 11. Place a flat washer onto a bolt and insert the bolt through the sprocket, joint binder or binders, and backing plate. Then, place a locking washer on the bolt and then a nut. Finger-tighten, then repeat until all the bolts are in place. Note: Only finger-tighten the bolts because the sprocket must be centered on the wheel. Note: It’s not necessary but you can use larger flat washers and locking washers for the sprocket installation.

STEP 12. Place the wheel in the frame of your bike and spin check for center and side to side wobble. Tighten or loosen the bolts 1/8th turn at a time until any wobble is minimized or gone. Note: Do the final tightening of the bolts when the wheel is on the bike frame. It’s easy to check for wobble and alignment often by giving the wheel a spin. Once all the bolts are tight it’s time to install the motor.

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Flip the bike over and let’s install a motor.

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Section 2: Installing Sprocket on Coaster Brake Hub
STEP 1. Livefastmotor kits come with a 48 tooth sprocket. 48 Tooth Sprocket : Gather the nine bolts, nine flat washers, nine locking washers, nine nuts, the two rubber joint binders, and the two metal backing plates. Note: Sprockets arrive unpainted. You may paint yours to match your frame. Also available from Livefastmotors: the 40 tooth Speed Sprocket.

STEP 1 a. 40 Tooth Speed Sprocket : If you’re using the 40 tooth speed sprocket, gather the five bolts, five flat washers, five locking washers, five nuts, the two rubber joint binders, and the two metal backing plates. Note: The speed sprocket will soon only be available in a 9 hole design for easier installation.

STEP 2. Remove the rear wheel from your bike. Note: When installing on a coaster brake hub, remove the brake arm. Brake arm

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STEP 3. . When installing on a coaster break hub, it may be necessary to remove the dust cover or grind down the lip of the dust cover. Or, use a sharpie marker to make a small line (about 1/16 of an inch) evenly around the edge of the center hole of the sprocket. Then file along the edge of the sprocket until the line disappears. This will allow you to fit over the dust cover without rubbing, and will help keep your wheel bearings rolling smoothly. Repeat this step if necessary.

STEP 4. Take one joint binder and make a cut centered between two of the holes so it can be placed inside the spokes and around the hub.

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Note: A joint binder may be needed on both sides of the sprocket for chain alignment on some non-coaster brake bikes. STEP 5. When installing on a free wheel, place the second wheel binder on the wheel outside the spokes. Position the holes between the spokes so the bolts clear the spokes. Place the backing plates on the inside, so the cut you made on the inner joint binder is between two of the inner backing plate holes. This is to ensure that the binder can’t separate during operation. Note: When installing on a coaster brake hub, do not install the outer joint binder. This is necessary for the sprocket to sit flush with the bearing housing.

Special Note: The 48 tooth sprocket has a bevel and many people aren’t sure which side faces the wheel. The answer is either. You want to be sure you have chain clearance with the tire. Close to the tire is good - rubbing the tire is bad. Choose the

way that allows you to line up the chain the best. Note: On the OCC Schwinn Chopper, it will always be with the teeth closer to the wheel.

STEP 6. Place a flat washer onto a bolt, and insert the bolt through the sprocket, joint binder or binders, and backing plate. Then place a locking washer on the bolt and then a nut. Finger-tighten, then repeat until all bolts are in place. Note: Only finger-tighten the bolts because the sprocket must be centered on the wheel.

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STEP 7. Using a piece of wire or a string with a loop placed over the axle, check the distance of each tooth from the center of the wheel. Adjust the sprocket position until centered. Then with a sharpie marker, mark the wire or string at the edge of one of the teeth. Check the position again to ensure you have the sprocket centered. Begin tightening the bolts in a star pattern, a few turns at a time, to ensure the sprocket sits evenly. Remember to check for center often.

STEP 8. Place the wheel in the frame of your bike and spin check for center and side to side wobble. Tighten or loosen the bolts 1/8th turn at a time until the wobble is minimized or gone. If you are installing on a free wheel you are done. If you are using a coaster brake, continue to step 9. Note: Spin the wheel often to check for center and wobble.

STEP 9. Place the brake arm in position and check for bolt clearance. It may be necessary to bend the brake arm to clear the bolts. Using your sharpie, mark the place you need to bend the arm to clear the bolts.

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STEP 10. Place the brake arm in a vise (heat will make bending easier and more precise). A hammer and brute force will work in this application as well.

STEP 11. After the bend is complete, install the brake arm and spin the wheel to check for clearance. If the arm clears the bolts, attach the wheel to the bike and get ready to install your motor.

STEP 12. Now that you have installed the rear wheel and checked to see that it spins true, it’s time to move on to the motor. Note: There are many ways to install your motor and people are coming up with new mounting ideas every day. We will be touching on a few different ones.

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Rear Engine Installation
Section 2 Installing the motor
After installing the sprocket to the rear wheel and placing the rear wheel on the bike, Attach the chain tensioner to the left side of the bike on the rear upper frame rail as shown. Don’t tighten the tension wheel yet. That will be tightened after the chain is installed.

Take out the 2 long screws, 2 flat bar with nuts and one black thick bar and assemble the long screw to the flat bar as shown, tighten it with the nut to lock it in place.

Unscrew the nut from the bicycle at the rear wheel axle, place the flat bar onto the axle then replace the nut as shown.

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Be sure that the flat bar is in front of the bolt on the derailleur or the engine will not sit securely on the mount.

Place a nut on each long bolt spin it down about 2 inches then place a washer over each nut. Slide the black bar onto both bolts with the outside hole toward the left side of the bike. Slide another washer over each bolt then another nut. Just snug them down with your fingers for now. We will be using them to adjust the motor’s height later.

Gather the long L shaped bolt, 2 nuts, threaded mounting plate, seat post clamp, rubber strip, bolt for the seat post clamp and 2 nuts and washers.

That’s everything in this picture. Remove the paper backing from the strip of rubber and place it into the seat post clamp.

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Remove the seat and seat post from the bike and slide the new clamp onto the seat post. Slide a washer onto the bolt then the threaded mounting plate using the smaller hole, then another washer and then two nuts. Thread the bolt into the seat clamp then use the nut closest to the clamp to tighten it into place. The nut closest to the threaded mounting plate will be used to tighten the plate into place. Don’t tighten the mounting plate into place until the engine is mounted.

Remove the six bolts holding the gas tank and plastic gas tank guard.

Replace the two Bolts into the side of the motor after the Tank guard has been removed.

Open the bag that contains a T-shape black bar and bolt, two smaller bolts and two pieces of plastic spacers.

T-bar and bolt Smaller bolts Spacers

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Remove the throttle cable and kill switch from the motor. Attach the gas tank in its original position with the T-bar under the clutch side between the gas tank and the motor using the two smaller bolts from the package. Place the plastic spacers between the motor and the gas tank on the pull start side of the motor as shown.

Remove the 4 nuts at the front rectangular cover of the drive assembly, and one black nut 8mm and washer at bottom of drive assembly. Then remove the cover.

Remove the 4 nuts that are temporarily used to hold the clutch coupling housing in place for shipping. Remove the clutch assembly taking note of the spacer placement. The small chain will slide right off the small sprocket once the nuts are loose.

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Attach the clutch housing to the Motor with the 2 short black bolts. Remember to use lock tight on all bolts.

Short Bolts

Then, assemble the small chain and Main Assembly in position before securing the 2 long black bolts and spacers. Be sure to set the tension on the small chain before tightening into place.

Long bolts and spacers

Attach the motor to the black bar with the T-bar and the bolt on the bottom of the drive assembly. Be sure to have the sprocket side over the left side of the bike and the pull cord over the right side of the bike.

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Screw the L bolt into the threaded plate. Then place a nut on the short end of the L-bolt. Notice in the example the threaded plate is loose so you can maneuver the L-bolt into place. Check the position and the angle of the motor by inserting the short end of the L-bolt into the hole on the drive assembly. It is OK if the motor tilts forward a little. But you don’t want the motor to tilt back. The threads on the threaded plate can go up or down depending on your bike. You also can bolt the threaded plate to the existing seat post of the bike if you wish.

When you have the best position for the motor, slide the short end of the L-bolt into the hole in the drive assembly under the motor. Place another nut on the end of the bolt and tighten. Tighten the Threaded plate And the seat post clamp using the two nuts between the clamp and the plate.

This is an example of the threaded plate attached to the seat post clamp that came with the bike.

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Remove the master link from the chain and slide it over the sprocket behind the small chain. Master Link

Let the chain hang down to the wheel sprocket it should line up straight. Wrap the chain around the wheel sprocket and replace the master link.

If the sprocket is straight and the chain length is good you may choose not to use the chain tensioner. Adjust the tensioner wheel to remove slack in the chain and tighten in place.

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If you need to slide the motor to the left or right to line up the sprockets loosen these two bolts and gently nudge the motor over so the chain lines up with both sprockets. To raise or lower the motor loosen or tighten the bolts on the black cross bar.

If you experience chain popping, remove the chain and you can file the outer edges of each sprocket tooth to help them enter the chain smoothly.

If you need to adjust the chain tension on the small chain, slightly loosen the bolts on the drive housing.

Then raise or lower the T-bolt under the Motor.

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Plug the kill switch into the wires from the motor. Attach the other end of the kill switch to a easy to reach area.

Attach the throttle lever just in front of the left hand grip.

Feed the throttle cable through the bike to the carburetor and reattach the end to the throttle assembly.

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Attach the drive assembly cover using the four nuts and four washers you removed earlier.

Your motor is able to tilt forward so the gas feed line in the gas tank will point up slightly and if you mount your motor straight you will need to adjust the gas feed line. This can cause the motor to sputter without enough gas even with a half full tank. This is easy to fix.

Make a small hook on the end of a long wire. Remove the gas cap and reach in with the wire and hook the black feeder line. Gently pull the line out.

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Pull the filter off the end of the line and snip about 1 & 1/2 inches off the end and replace the filter. Push the line back into the tank.

Fill the Oil tank with 10.W.30 motor oil. Fill the gas tank with regular unleaded gasoline. This is a 4 stroke it does

not use gas oil mix.

To start, press the primer bubble until you see the gas come out the clear tube.

Turn on the switch. Lift the choke lever. Pull the pull start until it fires up. Push the choke lever back down.

Zoom !!!
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GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Obey all traffic regulations. Do not operate bike without the chain guard installed. Always wear a helmet and eye protection when riding. Do not wear loose fitting pants or skirt when riding, as loose fabric can catch in the drive chain and cause an accident. 5. Remember that you are riding a small, motorized vehicle and other traffic may not be able to see you. Wear bright colors on your shirt and helmet. 6. Never ride at night without proper headlight, taillight, and reflectors. Be sure to wear reflective clothing when riding at night. 7. Never ride on pedestrian throughways or sidewalks, especially with the engine running. 8. Never operate your MOTOcycle in an unsafe manner. 9. Wear riding gloves to prevent injury to hands during an accident. 10. Check local and state laws before riding your MOTOcycle on the street. 11. WARNING” ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET WHILE RIDING!! 1. 2. 3. 4.

PREPARATION
1. Engine oil level CAUTION! Running the engine with insufficient oil can cause serious engine damage. Be sure to check the engine on a level surface with the engine stopped. a. Place the engine with the fuel tank side downward and horizontally on a level surface. b. Remove the oil filler cap and check the oil level: it should reach the top of the oil filler neck. c. If the oil is low fill to top of the oil filler neck with the recommended oil.

Every 10 hours check the oil level and replenish the oil up to the top of the filler neck if the engine is operated for more than 10 hours continuously. Use a high detergent, premium quality motor oil certified to meet or exceed U.S. automobile manufacture’s requirement for service classification SG. SF. Motor oils classified SG, SF will show this designation on the container. SAE 10W-30 is recommended for general, all temperature use. 25

CAUTION!! Using non-detergent oil or 2 stroke engine oil shorten the engine’s life. 2. Air cleaner CAUTION!! Never run the engine without the air cleaner. Rapid engine wear will result. Check cleaner for dirt or obstruction of element. could

3. Fuel Use automotive gasoline (unleaded or lowleaded is preferred to minimize combustion chamber deposits). Never use an oil / gasoline mixture or dirty gasoline. Avoid getting dirt, dust or water in the fuel tank. WARNING!! Gasoline is extremely flammable and is explosive under certain conditions. Refuel in a well-ventilated area with the engine stopped. Don’t smoke or allow flames or sparks in the area where the engine is refueled or where the engine is stored. Don’t overfill the tank (there should be no fuel in the filler neck). After refueling, make sure the tank cap is closed properly and securely. Be careful not to spill fuel when refueling. Spilled fuel or fuel vapor may ignite. If any fuel is spilled, make sure the area is dry before starting the engine. Avoid repeated or prolonged contact with skin or breathing vapor.

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KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. Fuel tank capacity: 0.9 1 (0.238 US gal) GASOLINE CONTAINING ALCOHOL If you decide to use a gasoline containing alcohol (gasohol), be sure it’s octane rating is high. There are two types of “gasohol”, one containing alcohol, and the other containing methanol. Don’t use gasoline containing methanol (methyl or wood alcohol that does not also contain co-solvents and corrosion inhibitors for methanol. Never use gasoline containing more than 5% methanol, even if it has co-solvents and corrosion inhibitors. CAUTION! • Fuel system damage or engine problems resulting from the use of fuels that contain alcohol is not covered under the warranty. We can’t endorse the use of fuels containing methanol since evidence of their suitability is as yet incomplete. • Before buying fuel from an unfamiliar station, try to find out if the fuel contains alcohol. If it does, confirm the type and percentage of alcohol used. If you notice any undesirable operating symptoms while using a gasoline that you know does not contain alcohol, switch to a gasoline that you know does not contain alcohol. 4. Retightening bolts and nuts: Check for loose bolts and nuts. Tighten the bolts and nuts properly and securely, if necessary.

V.

STARTING THE ENGINE

1. Turn the engine switch to ON position (on the equipment side). 2. Move the choke lever to the OFF position CAUTION! Don’t use the choke if the engine is warm or the air temperature is high. 3. Press the priming pump several times until a fuel flow in the fuel return tube is visually noticed. 4. Pull the starter grip lightly until resistance is felt, then pull briskly. CAUTION! If not pulled briskly, sparks may fail to jump across the spark plug electrodes, resulting in failure to start the engine. • High altitude operation At high altitude, the standard carburetor air-fuel mixture will be excessively rich. Performance will decrease, and fuel consumption will increase. High altitude performance can be improved by installing a smaller diameter main fuel jet in the carburetor, and readjusting the idle needle screw. If you always operate the engine at altitudes higher than 1,860m (6000 feet) above sea level, have your authorized dealer perform these carburetor modifications. Even with suitable carburetor jetting, engine horsepower will decrease approximately 3.5% for each 305m (1000 feet) increase in altitude. The affect of altitude on horsepower will be greater than this if no carburetor modification is made. 27

CAUTION! Operation of the engine at an altitude lower than the carburetor is jetting for may result in reduced performance, overheating, and serious engine damage caused by an excessively lean air/fuel mixture.

VI.

OPERATION

1. Gradually move the choke lever to the ON position. Warm up the engine until it runs smoothly. 2. Position the throttle control lever for the desired speed (on the equipment side). VII.

STOPPING THE ENGINE

To stop the engine in an emergency, turn the engine switch to the OFF position (on the equipment side). Under normal conditions, use the following procedure. 1. Position the throttle lever fully to LOW (on the equipment side). 2. Turn the engine switch to the OFF position (on the equipment side).

VIII. MAINTENANCE
Periodic inspection and adjustment of the engine is essential if high lever performance is to be maintained. Regular maintenance will also ensure a long service life. The required service intervals and the kind of maintenance to be performed are described on the table below.

Maintenance Scedule

Service more frequently if used in a dirty area. These items should be serviced by an authorized dealer, unless the owner has the proper tools and mechanical proficiency. WARNING! • Shut off the engine before performance. • To prevent accidental start-up, turn OFF the engine switch and disconnect the spark plug cap. • The engine should be service by an authorized dealer unless the owner has proper tools and service data and feels he is mechanically qualified. 28

CAUTION! Use only genuine parts or their equipment. The use of replacement parts which are not equivalent quality may damage the engine. 1. Oil Change Drain the oil while the engine is still warm to assure rapid and complete drain. a. Check the fuel filler cap is tightened. b. Remove the oil filler cap and drain the oil into the oil container by inclining the engine toward the oil filler neck. c. Refill with the recommended oil and check the oil lever. Engine oil capacity: 0.101 (0.11 US qt. 0.09 Imp qt.) Wash your hands with soap and water after handling used oil. CAUTION! Please dispose of used motor oil in a manner that is compatible with the environment. We suggest you take it in a sealed container to your local service station for reclamation. Don’t throw it in the trash or pour it on the ground. 2. Air cleaner service A dirty air cleaner will restrict air flow to the carburetor. To prevent carburetor malfunction, service the air cleaner regularly. Service more frequently when operating the engine in extremely dusty areas. WARNING! Never use gasoline or low flash point solvents for cleaning the air cleaner element. A fire or explosion could result. CAUTION! Never run the engine without the air cleaner. Rapid engine wear will result. a. Move the choke lever to the CLOSED (upward) position. b. Remove the air cleaner cover by unhooking the upper tab on the top of the air cleaner cover and its two lower tabs. c. Wash the element in a nonflammable or high flash point solvent and dry it thoroughly. d. Soak the element in clean engine oil and squeeze out the excess oil e. Reinstall the air cleaner element. f. Reinstall the air cleaner cover by inserting the lover tabs, then insert the upper tab.

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3. Spark plug service Recommended spark plug: C5HSB CR5HSB (NGK) CAUTION! Never use a spark plug of incorrect heat range. To ensure proper engine operation, the spark plug must be properly gapped and free of deposits. a. Remove the spark plug cap and use the proper size spark plug wrench to remove the spark plug. WARNING! If the engine has been running, the muffler will be very hot. Be careful not to touch the muffler. b. Visually inspect the spark plug. Discard the spark plug if there is apparent wear, or if the insulator is cracked or chipped. Clean the spark plug with a wire brush if it is to be reused. c. Measure the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge. Correct as necessary by bending the side electrode. The gap should be: 0.60~0.70mm (0.024~0.028 in). d. Check the spark plug washer is in good condition and thread the spark plug in by hand to prevent crossthreading. e. After the spark plug is seated, tighten with a spark plug wrench to compress the washer. C AUTION! When installing a new spark plug, tighten with ½ turn after the spark plug seats to compress the washer. When reinstalling a used spark plug, tighten 1/8 to ¼ turn after the spark plug seats to compress the washer. CAUTION! The spark plug must be securely tightened. An improperly tightened spark plug can become very hot and may damage the engine. 4. Fuel filler service WARNING! Gasoline is extremely flammable and is explosive under certain conditions. Don’t smoke or allow flames or sparks in the area. a. Check the engine oil filler cap is tightened securely. b. Remove the fuel filler cap and drain the fuel into the container by inclining the engine toward the fuel filler neck. c. Pull out the fuel filter with the mechanic’s wire from the fuel filler neck gently. d. Check the fuel filter for dirt. If the fuel filter is dirty, gently wash it with nonflammable or high flash point solvent. If the fuel filter is excessively dirty, replace it. e. Return the fuel filter into the fuel tank and the fuel filler cap securely.

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5. Fuel tank cleaning WARNING! Gasoline is extremely flammable and is explosive under certain conditions. Don’t smoke or allow flames or sparks in the area. a. Check the engine oil filler cap is tightened securely. b. Remove the fuel filler cap and drain the fuel into the container by inclining the engine toward the fuel filler neck. c. Pull out the fuel filter with the mechanic’s wire from the fuel filler neck gently. d. Remove water and dirt from the fuel tank by rinsing the inside of the fuel tank with nonflammable or high flash point solvent. e. Return the fuel filter into the fuel tank and the fuel filler cap securely.

IX.

TRANSPORTING AND STORAGE

WARNING! When transporting the engine, tighten the fuel filler cap to prevent fuel spillage. Fuel vapor of spilling fuel may ignite. Before storing the unit for an extended period of time: a. Be sure the storage area is free of excessive humidity and dust. b. Drain the fuel…

WARNING! Gasoline is extremely flammable and is explosive under certain conditions. Don’t smoke or allow flames or sparks in the area. a. Check the engine oil filler cap is tightened securely. b. Remove the fuel filler cap and drain the fuel into a container by inclining the engine toward the fuel filler neck. c. Press the priming pump several times until all fuel left in the fuel return tube is returned into the fuel tank. d. Tilt the engine toward the fuel filler neck again to drain the fuel left in the fuel tank into the container. e. Tighten the fuel filler cap securely after draining the fuel completely.

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Livefastmotors.com (CJR Imports, LLC)
Installation Instructions
Congratulations on choosing your new Livefastmotors motorbike kit accessory package. We offer these instructions to guide you through the installation. Please read through the instructions before beginning your installation. Happy motoring!

Accessory Kit Installation
Step 1. Mounting the Headlight The headlight bracket included in your kit is mountable on the front fork. You can mount it above or below the wheel line. Be sure to give yourself room for the spokes. Shown here installed below the wheel line.

Step 2. If you prefer an alternative to the front fork placement, you can easily make your own bracket out of a steel or aluminum bar purchased from your local hardware store.

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Step 3. Fashioning a Bracket To make your own mounting bracket, place the bar in a vice leaving 2 inches above the clamp. Drill a ¼ inch hole ¼ inch down from the top. Grab the top of the bar with a pair of pliers and give it a 90° twist.

Step 4. It should look something like this after your twist.

Step 5. Next, drill a ¼ inch hole 3 inches down from the twisted end. Note: The twist can’t be seen because the bar is upside down in the vice.

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Step 6. Decide where on your bike you want the light installed. You can easily install the headlight on the handlebars by bending your newly fashioned bracket around the bar, and drilling another hole that lines up with the hole drilled in step five.

Step 7. If you prefer, you could bend the bracket into an “L” shape and mount it to the front fork, above the wheel and behind the brake caliper. The light installs easily and does not affect the braking of the bike. Note: Most bicycle forks have a hole for a front brake caliper even if there is no brake caliper.

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Step 8. Remove the caliper from the front fork by removing the rear nut. Then slide the bracket onto the long bolt. Reattach the brake caliper with the light bracket in place. Attach the light using the bolt that came with the light.

Step 9. Installing the Bike Computer.

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Step 10. Remove the battery cover from the back of the computer. Insert the battery into the battery compartment. Place the computer bracket over the handle bar. With the two sliver contacts at the front of the bike, tighten down. Slide the computer onto the bracket until it clicks into place.

Step 11. Place the sensor on the inside of the front fork, and place the magnet on a wheel spoke. Adjust the relative position so that the space between the magnet and the sensor is less than ¼ inch. Remove the sticker from the back of the sensor and stick into place. Then, using three zip-ties, tighten the sensor into place. Next, tighten the screw on the magnet.

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Step 12. Programming the Computer Press and hold the button on the front for 3 seconds; then let the button up. Choose between “kph” or “mph” by pressing the button. The display will change each time the button is pressed. When your choice shows on the display, press and hold the button for three seconds and release. Now you must calibrate the wheel.

Wheel Calibration Table Wheel Diameter in Inches: Wheel Circumference: 16” 128 18” 144 20” 160 22” 176 24” 192 26” 208 28” 224 28 x 1 ½” 228

Step 13. Now your display screen will show three zeros. Choose your wheel size from the calibration table above. The corresponding wheel circumference number directly below it is the number you will select. Begin pressing the button - the numbers will Increase in increments of one. After the tenth time the button is pressed, the numbers will begin to change rapidly. Press the button to stop. Try to stop it just before the calibration number you are using. If you’re setting it for a 26” wheel, stop at 200 and move to 208 one number at a time. Once you have reached 208, press and hold the button for three seconds and the computer is set and calibrated. If you pass your target number, simply start over. Once setup is completed you can change between the functions by pressing the button once for each function.

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Step 14. Installing the Generator Attach the generator to one of the rear struts using the bracket provided in the kit. Be sure to have the generator locked in the “off” position while attaching. Flip the release bar to rest the generator wheel on the rear tire of the bike. Be sure to tighten the set screw into the strut to ensure a proper ground for the lights.

Step 15. Installing the Taillight Attach the taillight to one of the rear struts using the bracket provided in the kit. Be sure to attach it high enough to be visible from all sides and rear of the bike. Tighten the set screw to ensure a proper ground.

Step 16. Connecting the Wires Run the wire from both the headlight and the taillight to the brass lead on the bottom of the generator. Press the lead in with your finger and slide the tip of the wires into the hole. Release the lead. Unlock the generator and let it rest on the rear wheel. Begin pedaling and the lights will come on.

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