Spain

Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher
Barcelona
Overview
Introduction
Barcelona, Spain's second-largest city, is inextricably linked to the architecture of Antoni Gaudi. His most famous and unfinished masterpiece, La Sagrada Familia, is the emblem of the city. Like the church, Barcelona takes traditional ideas and presents them in new, even outrageous, forms. And the city's bursts of building and innovation give the impression that it's still being conceived. Both the cathedral and the city can be tough places to get a handle on, yet their complexity is invigorating rather than forbidding. Since it hosted the Summer Olympics in 1992, Barcelona has been on the hot list of European destinations. The staging of the Universal Forum of Cultures in 2004 also raised the city's profile. Such popularity may make it harder to land a hotel room, but it has only added to the sense that Barcelona is a place to visit as much for its energetic, cosmopolitan character as for its unusual attractions.
Cityview from Park Guell Terrace
Highlights
SightsLa Sagrada Familia; La Pedrera; La Catedral (La Seu); Santa Maria del Mar. MuseumsMuseu Picasso; Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya; Museu d'Historia de Catalunya; Fundacio Joan Miro. Memorable MealsLunch at Escriba Xiringuito on the seafront; high-end Mediterranean fare at Neichel; seafood at Botafumeiro; fashionable, inventive dishes at Semproniana; stylish tapas at Comerc 24. Late NightFlamenco at Los Tarantos in summer; drinks and a view at Mirablau; wine at La Vinya del Senyor; dancing at Otto Zutz or Boulevard Culture Club. WalksLa Rambla, the Barri Gotic and the Born; along the waterfront; Montjuic; Parc Guell; Collserola woodlands. Especially for KidsZoo de Barcelona; L'Aquarium de Barcelona; a ride on the roller coaster at Parc d'Atraccions del Tibidabo.
Geography
Barcelona is a large city with many districts, but the most popular attractions are found in a handful of areas that, for the most part, flow into one another. Beginning on the waterfront, Port Vell (Old Port) encompasses the harbor area and Barceloneta, a neighborhood that was once home to fishermen and has been renovated. The Vila Olimpica (Olympic Village) lies just east of Port Vell. It, too, has undergone extensive renovation in the past decade or so and is now the city's seaside recreation area. La Rambla, Barcelona's famous boulevard and almost a district unto itself, begins at Port Vell and extends inland to Placa Catalunya. La Rambla is the heart of the central city, and it forms the boundary between El Raval, the neighborhood to the west of the boulevard, and the Barri Gotic (the Gothic Quarter), which lies to the east. The Barri Gotic, the oldest part of Barcelona, has many bars, restaurants, museums and historic sites. Adjoining it on the east side of Via Laietana are the old quarters of Sant Pere and La Ribera, with its fine medieval mansions and trendy shopping and nightlife around the old Born market (now closed to shoppers but preserved as a historic site). Continuing inland from the Barri Gotic, you'll enter the Eixample, an upscale shopping and residential area, crisscrossed by wide avenues, where many of the modernisme buildings are located. Adjoining it to the northwest is the chic villagelike district of Gracia, which has many
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher pleasant restaurants. Beyond Gracia, the city climbs the lower slope of Mount Tibidabo. Montjuic, a prominent castle-topped hill covered with parks, gardens and pathways west of Port Vell, is easily visible from the central city. Museums and other attractions are found on this high ground. The renovated district of Sant Adria de Besos is more detached from the other areas and is found on the beachfront farther to the east at the end of the T5 tram line.
History
As with many places in Europe, Barcelona's history has much to do with invasions and conquest. The Romans founded the original settlement, named Barcino, in 133 BC, and the town was later held by the Visigoths, the Moors and the Christian Carolingian Empire under Charlemagne's son, Louis the Pious. In AD 988, Barcelona won independence from the Carolingian kings and became the dominant political and military force in the region of northeastern Spain later known as Cataloniaor Catalunya, in the native Catalan tongue. (Much of the city's character stems from the fact that it identifies itself more as part of Catalonia than of Spain.) By the late 1400s, Catalonia was politically linked with other regions of Spain, but the region continued to enjoy autonomous rights and privileges until the early 1700s. That changed after the War of Succession, when Catalonia backed the losing side led by Archduke Charles of Austria. Spain's King Philip V abolished Catalonia's government and laws and made Castilian (Spanish) the language of official business, rather than Catalan. This was but one of many conflicts between Catalonia and the central authority of Spain. By the late 1800s, Barcelona had become one of Spain's most industrialized areas, and the factories spawned significant wealth and a dynamic middle class. Industrial profits underwrote the modernisme movement in architectureBarcelona's version of art nouveau that was spearheaded by architect Antoni Gaudi. The industrial riches did not trickle down to the working class, however, and radical movements especially anarchismfound willing converts in the city's poorer districts. A violent uprising in 1909 was a precursor to the upheaval unleashed by the Spanish Civil War in the late 1930s, when Barcelona was ruled by leftist trade unions for several years. The city remained a stronghold of the losing Republican cause until the end of the war and paid the price afterward. During the long reign of Francisco Franco (1939-75) the Catalan identity and language were viciously suppressed. Catalonian home rule was restored after Franco's death in 1975, and the Catalan language was declared co-official with Castilian. Beginning in the late 1970s, a forward-looking urban policy was adopted in Barcelona, and the regeneration reached its peak in preparation for the 1992 Summer Olympics. Since then, its popularity as a tourist and recreation center has continued to grow. Politically, the city and region have become increasingly detached from Madrid's centralist rule; in 2010, more than a million Catalans demonstrated in favor of independence from the rest of Spain. That same year their official abolition of bullfightingeffective from 2011 was in effect a further rejection of deep-rooted Spanish traditions.
Port Information
Location
Barcelona is an important stopping-off point for major cruise lines in the Mediterranean, and even the largest ocean liners can dock in its port. The cruise ship terminal is located in Port Vell, the Old Port district at the foot of La Rambla, minutes away from the city's most important tourist attractions. The terminal, one of the largest and most modern of its kind in the Mediterranean, offers many services, including currency exchange, duty-free shops, restaurants, Internet access points, bus stops and taxi ranks. Large ferries connect the city to the Balearic Islands and all of the major Mediterranean ports. Phone 902-222-858. http://www.apb.es.
Shore Excursions
Typical shore excursions offered include a tour of Antoni Gaudi's architectural wonders, a visit to the Olympic Village, a walk through the Gothic Quarter, a visit to the Picasso and Miro museums or a bus tour of the spectacular Montserrat mountain region with its famed monastery.
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Potpourri
Under Franco's regime, Catalan was forbidden in all formsprinted, written or taught. Now the city offers free courses to anyone who would like to learn it. The result is that many immigrants can speak and write Catalan better than older Catalonians. Although Antoni Gaudi created some of the most extravagant buildings ever made, he was a humble and religious man who rejected vanity in all its forms. When he was struck down by a tram in 1926, his clothes were so shabby that police assumed he was a vagrant. He died three days later in a hospital in the dilapidated Barri Xino district. It has been estimated that to build the central spire of the Sagrada Familia, which will rise 560 ft/171 m high, the subterranean pylons would have to weigh 8,000 tons each for it to withstand an earthquake or gale-force winds of 100 mph/161 kph. Barcelona's colorful Fiesta de Sant Medir, held in the Gracia district in early March and dating from Roman times, honors Saint Emeterio, or Sant Medir, the patron saint of broad beans. During the festivities, thousands of sweets are handed out to delighted children. The name of Mount Tibidabo comes from the story of Christ's wanderings in the wilderness, when the Devil took him to a mountaintop and offered to give him all that he could see if Jesus would fall down and worship him. Tibi dabo means "I give" in Latin. During Franco's reign, a supervisor known as "la Moral" watched over the dance floor at La Paloma concert hall and parted couples with his stick if they danced too close or tried to sneak a kiss. The stadium on Montjuic was intended to host the People's Olympics in 1936, but Franco's coup the day before the scheduled opening kicked off the Spanish Civil War and put an end to the games. Catalans had to wait till 1992 when, in a brand-new stadium, Montjuic launched the world Olympics that made Barcelona internationally famous.
Hotel Overview
As a popular destination for both business and leisure travelers, Barcelona can barely keep pace with the demand for hotel rooms, so be sure you book as far in advance as you can. The best hotel locations for sightseers are in the Barri Gotic, Raval or Eixample, which are all within walking distance of many popular attractions. Barri Gotic and Raval properties tend to be a little less expensive, but some can be noisy, especially those along La Rambla. In Eixample, there are many good midpriced hotels. In addition, some budget and midrange hotels have opened in districts a little farther from the center, such as near Parc Guell. These are quieter than those in the city center, the air is fresher and a metro ride will get you into the thick of things in rather short order.
See & Do
Sightseeing
Sooner or later, you must take a walk down La Rambla, Barcelona's famous thoroughfare, so you may as well make it sooner. It's a great introduction to the city, and it will put you in good position to see other nearby attractions. If you head northeast from La Rambla, you'll enter the twisting, ancient streets of the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter). Find your way to the grandiose La Seu cathedral as you explore the district. Nearby is the Museu d'Historia de Barcelona (City History Museum). The Barri Gotic also holds several other treasures, so you may want to plan more than one day in the area. The highlights are the Museu Picasso (get there early to avoid the lines) and another magnificent Gothic church, Santa Maria del Mar. It's fun just to amble through the streets, however, especially in the evening, when you can sample many restaurants and bars in the contrasting Raval (earthy-international) and Born (avantgarde chic) districts. You'll need at least a day to take in the famous sights from the modernisme movement in architecture. Before you start, stop in at the Ruta del Modernisme center at the tourist office in Placa Catalunya (and other locations), where you can get maps, a guidebook and discount vouchers to the city's 115 modernisme monuments. The guidebook with vouchers costs about 12 euros. Add 5 euros for additional vouchers for each accompanying adult. A route pack, which includes an additional guide to modernisme bars and restaurants, costs about 18 euros. For more information, visit http://www.rutadelmodernisme.com.
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher Begin at Manzana de la Discordia, on Passeig de Gracia in the Eixample district, where you can see three adjacent buildings built by the best-known architects of the movement. Next, head a few blocks north to Antoni Gaudi's amazing building La Pedrera (or Casa Mila), which houses residential apartments, offices and an exhibition center. Plan at least two hours to see them and to walk around among the rooftop sculptures. From the roof, you'll be able to see the spires of Sagrada Familia in the distance, and that's your next stop. (You can walk there in a leisurely half-hour jaunt or catch the metro's Blue Line at the Diagonal Station near La Pedrera.) Close out the day at Gaudi's intricately surrealistic church. Be sure to go up in the spires for a vertigo-inducing look at the church and the city. A visit to Gaudi's Parc Guell, on the northern side of the city, is also recommended, though you will probably have to fit it into another day. An hour-long audio tour of Gaudi's Barcelona can be purchased from the official tourist authority Web site for 2.50 euros and downloaded to your mobile phone or MP3 player. It also contains a PDF file with more detailed information about the buildings, complete with photographs and maps. http://bcnshop.barcelonaturisme.com. Montjuic, the hill rising southwest of the city center, merits a day of its own. Both the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya and Fundacio Joan Miro are found on Montjuic, as are several less cultural and more hedonistic attractions, including Poble Espanyol (a theme "village" incorporating architectural styles from all over Spain and a host of shops and restaurants), the Olympic stadium and Pavello Barcelona. Just strolling around this multifaceted green area is pleasant, and it offers some splendid panoramic views of the city and the Mediterranean coastline. Figure your route ahead of time, however, as Montjuic covers a lot of territory and the attractions are widely spaced.
Historic Sites
Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau Designed by Domenech i Montaner, one of the most renowned architects of the modernisme movement, this unusual hospital complex was built between 1902 and 1930. Located on the site of the old Santa Creu Hospital, which dates from 1401, the Hospital de Sant Pau is the largest single example of Catalan modernista architecture. Packed with sculptures and mosaics, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997. However, it still functions as a hospital, and only the courtyards and gardens are open to visitors. There are 50-minute guided tours in English daily at 10 and 11 am, noon and 1 pm. 10 euros. La Catedral (La Seu) The heart of the Old City, this Gothic monster (with the imposing and mostly unused formal Placa de la Seu 3 name of Esglesia Catedral Basilica de Barcelona) was mostly built between 1298 and 1448 on Barcelona, Spain 8002 the site that once held a Roman temple and later a mosque. The facade was not completed until the 1890s, and some feel that its neo-Gothic style is jarring, although it looks nice Phone: 93-315-1554 illuminated at night. Very spacious and soothing, the interior is notable for its volume, with three http://www.catedralbcn.org naves of almost equal width. The crypt of Barcelona's first patron saint, martyr Santa Eulalia, lies behind the altar. You can see some of the older furnishings in the church's Sala Capitular (Chapter House Museum). Above all, don't miss the open-air cloister with its gently splashing fountain and restful garden patrolled by white geese. You can also visit the rooftop terrace for a close-up look at the towers and views over the Gothic quarter. Cathedral open Monday-Friday 8 am-12:45 pm and 5:15-7:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 8 am-noon and 5:15-8 pm. Cloister open daily 8:30 am-12:30 pm and 5:15-7 pm. Chapter House Museum open daily 10 am-noon and 5:15-6:30 pm. The rooftop terrace is open MondayFriday 10 am-noon and 5:15-6 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-noon. Cathedral admission is free; admission to the museum is 1 euro; elevator to the roof is 2 euros. An all-in-one ticket, which includes a guided tour, is 5 euros.
Sant Antoni Maria Claret 167 Barcelona, Spain 8041 Phone: 93-317-7652 for information regarding guided tours http://www.santpau.es
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La Pedrera Built between 1906 and 1910, this large apartment building is one of Antoni Gaudi's masterworks. Its official name is Casa Mila, but it's better known as La Pedrera (the Quarry), a reference to its stony exterior appearance, with balconies that look like caves. Though Sagrada Familia is the Gaudi building that draws the biggest crowds, we think La Pedrera gives a better sense of the architect's astounding designs. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. The complex includes residential apartments, offices and an exhibition center.
Provenca 261-265 Barcelona, Spain 8025 Phone: 902-400-973 or 93-484-5900 http://www.lapedreraeducacio.org
Daily guided tours of the Espai Gaudi (loft and roof) and the Pedrera Apartment of Caixa Catalunya are available November-February 9 am6:30 pm and March-October 9 am-8 pm. 14 euros adults. La Rambla This tree-dappled avenue is the heart, soul and central hub of Barcelona, not to mention a world-famous thoroughfare lined with remarkably diverse architectural styles. Although it is technically five streets (Rambla de Santa Monica, Rambla des Caputxins, Rambla de St. Josep, Rambla d'Estudis and Rambla Canaletes), the separation has not been clear for at least two centuries, and all are generally referred to as La Rambla. At least once during your visit, you should plan to stroll its full length, from Placa Catalunya to the statue of Christopher Columbus presiding over the port. Throughout the day and night it surges with people and offers a variety of amusements. Street performers line the boulevard, the most common being the human statues of one sort or another. You'll see mimes, jugglers and puppet theaters, too. There are also flower and bird vendors and lots of outdoor cafes where you can take a seat and watch the informal parade flow past you. The end near the port has an open-air artisan market where you can find attractive gifts and souvenirs from 10:30 am till dusk on Saturday and Sunday. La Sagrada Familia The amazing Templo Expiatorio de la Sagrada Familia, to give it its full name, has to be seen Mallorca 401 to be believed. Even then it's hard to comprehend. The foundation stone was laid in 1882, and Barcelona, Spain 8025 Antoni Gaudi worked on the building for more than 40 years, leaving it unfinished when he died in 1926. It remains unfinished, though work continues amid controversy: What few plans and Phone: 93-207-3031 models Gaudi left behind were destroyed or badly damaged at the outset of the Spanish Civil http://www.sagradafamilia.org War, and those directing the current work are more or less guessing at the architect's intentions. You'll have no trouble distinguishing the portions that are pure Gaudi and those that are more recent additions, based on the color and condition of the stonework. Nonetheless, it's a must-see for all visitors to Barcelona (expect big crowds). Additions include color mosaics as well as materials such as carbon fiber, which did not exist during Gaudi's lifetime but are needed today to make the structure earthquake-proof. Upon completion, the building will nearly double in height. Start your visit in the church, then take an elevator that ascends one of the massive church spires for a great view of the city and the ongoing church construction. Also, don't miss the Gaudi House Museum located in the basement of the Passion facade. The museum focuses on Gaudi's works, especially emphasizing his work on the church. April-September daily 9 am-8 pm; October-March till 6 pm. Guided tours in English are held daily at 11 am and 1 pm; Saturday, Sunday and May-October also at noon. La Sagrada Familia admission 12.50 euros adults. Admission plus a guided tour or audio guide 16.50 euros adults. La Sagrada Familia plus Gaudi House Museum admission 14.50 euros adults. Manzana de la Discordia The name translates to "Block of Discord," a reference to the three contrasting modernista buildings that stand close together along Passeig de Gracia. On the southern corner is Domenech i Montaner's ornate Casa Lleo Morera. A few doors up, at No. 41, is the intriguing geometric Casa Amatller by Puig i Cadafalch. Temporary art exhibitions are sometimes held on the ground floor by the Fundacio Amatller. Next door, at No. 43, is Antoni Gaudi's wonderful fairy-tale Casa Batllo with its carnival-mask balconiesa building that would look more at home in Disneyland than it does on a busy city street. See it at night, when it sparkles under lights. You can visit Casa Batllo using self-guided audio tours. Casa Batllo is open daily 9 am-8 pm. 18.15 euros adults.
Passeig de Gracia 43, between Consell de Cent and Arago Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-216-0306 http://www.casabatllo.es
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Palau de la Musica Catalana Another of the modernista landmarks, this one was designed by Domenech i Montaner and built around the beginning of the 20th century. It's now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as well as a focal point for the city's classical music scene. Although it's impressive from the outside, try to take a tour or see a performance at the hall so you can get a look at the magnificent stainedglass ceiling and other interior design elements.
C/ Palau de la Musica 4-6 Barcelona, Spain 8003 Phone: 902-475-485 http://www.palaumusica.org
Guided 50-minute tours in English are offered daily on the hour 10 am-3:30 pm (till 7 pm in August). Tour admission is 15 euros adults. Buy tickets at the box office daily 9:30 am-3:30 pm (no advance reservations). Pavello Barcelona The current Barcelona Pavilion (also known as the Mies van der Rohe Pavilion) is an exact replica of the German architect's influential work of modern architecture, originally built in 1929 for the International Exposition. (Don't confuse modern with Barcelona's modernisme style, which is known as art nouveau in most of the world.) The pavilion's stark, simple lines are a forerunner of many architectural designs in subsequent decades: It looks a lot like libraries and other public buildings from the 1960s. The pavilion is small, and there's not a lot to see inside except Mies van der Rohe's famous Barcelona chairs (which the caretaker won't let you sit on). Daily 10 am-8 pm. 4.60 euros adults. Santa Maria del Mar This soaring Catalan Gothic church sits in the heart of the medieval city's maritime district. Placa de Santa Maria 1 Designed by the architect Berenguer de Montagut, this structure is considered by many to be Barcelona, Spain 8003 Barcelona's most beautiful church. The foundation stone was laid to celebrate the conquest of Cerdena, which completed the Catalan domination of the region. Its relatively swift construction, between 1329 and 1384, made for an unusual unity of style. The interior, too, is uplifting in its exquisite simplicity and elegance, partly because its baroque trappings were burned during the Spanish Civil War. It also has perfect acoustics and serves as a wonderful setting for concerts and choir recitals, especially during the evenings when it's all lit up. Daily 9 am-1:30 pm and 4:30-8:30 pm.
Avinguda del Marques de Comilla Barcelona, Spain 8038 Phone: 93-423-4016 http://www.miesbcn.com
Museums
CaixaForum This is a cultural center that has one of the most important contemporary art collections in Spain, containing more than 700 permanent works that represent the evolution of contemporary art. One of the most famous works is Schmerzraum, an installation made of sheets of lead, iron and silver, by Joseph Beuys. Many international artists such as Donald Judd, Jannis Kounellis, Bruce Naumann, Gerhard Richter and Sigmar Polke are also represented. Concerts, artistic and literary conferences, and various other activities take place regularly in the museum building, which dates from 1909 and is considered a work of art itself. A media library, bookstore and a restaurant are also available to visitors. Monday-Friday 10 am-8 pm; Saturday, Sunday and public holidays 10 am-9 pm. Free.
Marques de Comillas 6-8 (Metro: Espanya lines 1 and 3) Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-476-8600 http://www.fundacio.lacaixa.es
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Fundacio Joan Miro One of the world's largest collections of Joan Miro's work, including paintings, graphic work, drawings, sculptures and tapestries. They're housed high above the city on Montjuic hill in a Mediterranean-style building with galleries that are bathed in natural light. Climb to the roof terrace for some great views. The Fundacio also stages temporary exhibitions, screenings, seminars and concerts in its vocation as a platform for contemporary culture.
Parc de Montjuic Barcelona, Spain 8038 Phone: 93-443-9470 http://fundaciomiro-bcn.org/?idioma=2
Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm (till 8 pm July-September), Sunday and holidays 10 am-2:30 pm. Main museum admission is 10 euros adults. Temporary exhibits require a separate fee of 4 euros. Museo de Cera de Barcelona Housed in a 19th-century neo-Renaissance building at the bottom of La Rambla, Barcelona's wax museum boasts 350 life-size figures. A blend of famous historical and fictional characters can be found in various settings designed to depict typical scenes of contemporary and historical life. Monday-Friday 10 am-1:30 pm and 4-7:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11 am-2 pm and 4:308:30 pm. Open until 10 pm during the summer. 15 euros adults, 9 euros children. Museo Egipci de Barcelona This museum specializes in ancient Egyptian culture and is home to the Fundacion Clos collection, which has 700 original artifacts in its possession. The main focus is on the pharaohs and their concept of life after death. In addition, visitors can enjoy theatrical re-enactments of ancient Egyptian cultural life and various temporary exhibitions featured throughout the year. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm. There are free guided tours in Spanish Saturday at 5 pm. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. 11 euros. Special prices apply to theatrical presentations. Museo Textil de la Indumentaria Tracing the evolution of the textile industry, this museum contains various collections of garments, tapestries, embroideries and the apparatuses involved in the production of textiles, both from Spain and abroad. Daily except Monday 10 am-6 pm, holidays 10 am-3 pm. Admission 5 euros adults. Free Sunday 3-8 pm. Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona Often referred to as MACBA, this museum showcases works by contemporary artists the world over, but it's the museum building that often gets attention. Designed by U.S. architect Richard Meier and opened in 1995, the dazzling white structure is the flagship of the ambitious renovation of the Raval district. Inside, the museum has lots of natural light and ramps for walking ease. Various temporary exhibits augment the main collection.
Placa del Angels 1 (Metro: Universita) Barcelona, Spain 8001 Phone: 93-412-0810 http://www.macba.es Palau Reial de Pedralbes Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-256-3465 http://www.museutextil.bcn.es Valencia 284 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-488-0188 http://www.museuegipci.com Passatge de la Banca 7 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-317-2649 http://www.museocerabcn.com
Late June-late September: Monday and Wednesday 11 am-8 pm, Thursday and Friday 11 ammidnight, Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday and holidays 10 am-3 pm. Late September-late June: Monday and Wednesday-Friday 11 am-7:30 pm, Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday and holidays 10 am-3 pm. Admission 7.50 euros adults. Free guided tours in English on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday at 4 pm.
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Museu de la Xocolata This museum presents Barcelona as you've never seen it before: made out of chocolate. The Olympic stadium, Gaudi's buildings and other Barcelona landmarks are all formed from the intoxicating sweet stuff. An initiative of the Provincial Guild of Pastry Chefs and City Hall, the museum is housed in the old Sant Agusti convent (suitably equipped with arctic-level airconditioning to prevent Barcelona from melting). The museum also whisks you through the history of the "bitter drink" of the Aztecs and enlightens you about chocolate as medicine, food and aphrodisiac. And, of course, there's a scrumptious cafe and shop with consumable chocolate. Monday and Wednesday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 10 am-3 pm. 4.30 euros adults. Museu d'Historia de Catalunya A lively, interactive overview of the history of Catalonia is housed in a restored port building. Artifacts, hands-on exhibits, audiovisuals and animated models reconstruct the social and human complexity of each period. Guidebooks in English are available. A restaurant is located on the fourth floor, and a gift and book shop are also on-site. Tuesday and Thursday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Wednesday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday and holidays 10 am-2:30 pm. 4 euros adults, free on the first Sunday of each month. Museu d'Historia de la Ciutat This institution is actually a collection of museums. The main branch incorporates the ensemble of monumental buildings on Placa del Rei. The underground levels there reveal fascinating subterranean layers of the city's ancient history, including some remains from the Roman colony Barcino. An entire ancient street and a fourth-century Christian basilica are also preserved just where they were discovered during city excavations in the 1930s. Exhibits on the upper floors chart later developments in Barcelona.
Placa del Rei Barcelona, Spain 8002 Phone: 93-256-2100 http://www.museuhistoria.bcn.es Placa de Pau Vila 3 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-225-4700 http://www.en.mhcat.net Carrer del Comerc 36 Barcelona, Spain 8003 Phone: 93-268-7878 http://www.museuxocolata.com
Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-2 pm and 4-7 pm (April-September the museum remains open 10 am-8 pm), Sunday and holidays 10 am-3 pm. 7 euros adults. Museu Frederic Mares This museum was created around the collections donated to the city by sculptor Frederic Mares in 1946. He continued adding to the collection throughout his lifetime. In addition to an extensive Hispanic sculpture collection and many of Mares' own works, the museum also contains photographs, fans, pipes, jewelry, clocks, toys, pharmacy bottles, gargoyles, opera glasses and other ephemera that give an insight into 19th-century customs and lifestyles. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 10 am-3 pm. Admission is 3 euros. Free on Wednesday 3-7 pm and on the first Sunday of each month. Museu Maritim de Barcelona This is one of Barcelona's most popular museums, housed in the breathtaking Drassanes (Royal Shipyards), which date from the 1200s. The permanent museum is currently closed for a massive renovation of the dockyards, but access to temporary exhibitions is still available. Daily 10 am-8 pm. General admission 2.50 euros adults.
Avinguda de les Drassanes 1 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-342-9920 http://www.mmb.cat 5 Placa de Sant Iu Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-310-5800 http://www.museumares.bcn.es
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Museu Monestir de Pedralbes The Royal Monastery of Santa Maria de Pedralbes was founded in 1326 and is a splendid example of Gothic forms and structures. In addition to the church, visit the three-story cloister and the Chapel of Sant Miquel with its 14th-century murals. The infirmary, vaulted refectory, kitchen, and everyday objects and furniture give you the feel of what life used to be like in a convent. In fact, part of the building is still home to a community of nuns.
Baixada del Monestir 9 Barcelona, Spain
Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-2 pm (until 5 pm April-September), Sunday and holidays 10 am-3 pm. 7 euros adults. Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya Located in the Palau Nacional (Montjuic), this museum (often referred to as MNAC) includes one of the world's most important collections of Romanesque art, including delicate murals rescued from the walls of tiny mountain churches in Catalonia. It also exhibits Gothic, Renaissance and baroque works. The interior of the palace, built for the International Exhibition of 1929, was partially remodeled by Italian architect Gae Aulenti in the early 1990s. The museum's front steps offer a spectacular view of the city.
Palau Nacional Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-622-0376 http://www.mnac.es
Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday and holidays 10 am-2:30 pm. 8.50 euros adults (valid for two days within a month, audio guide included). Temporary exhibitions require a separate fee; combined tickets for permanent and temporary exhibits available. Free on the first Sunday of each month. Museu Picasso The museum's focus is on the early formative years of Pablo Picasso (1895-1904), many of which were spent in Barcelona. The collection includes drawings, representational and cubist paintings, and works from the artist's Blue and Pink Periods, housed in five adjacent medieval palaces. One of the highlights is the collection of interpretations that Picasso did of Velazquez's Las Meninas. Daily except Monday 10 am-8 pm. 9 euros adults, 5.80 euros for temporary exhibits. Free on the first Sunday of every month and every Sunday after 3 pm. Nou Camp Football Museum Essential for soccer fans: The museum presents the history of the FC Barcelona team (also known as Barca) with audiovisuals, glittering trophies (including the precious European Cup of 1992), and an amazing assortment of boots, shirts, photos and stadium models. A visit to the museum lets you gaze upon the hugely impressive Nou Camp stadium and also visit Barca's ice-skating rink. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6:30 pm (till 8 pm April-October), Sunday and holidays 10 am-2:30 pm. 8.50 euros adults (17 euros when combined with stadium tour). Poble Espanyol The name translates to Spanish Village. Built for the International Exhibition of 1929, it is an open-air museum that includes replicas (often on a smaller scale) of buildings, squares and bridges found throughout the country. It was revamped for the 1992 Olympics and turned into a local nightlife hot spot with numerous bars and restaurants. It's still open in the daytime, however, and has an arts-and-crafts center with more than 40 workshops where you can view and purchase traditional goods. Numerous children's activities and concerts are also held frequently on-site.
Avinguda Marques de Comilla Barcelona, Spain 8004 Phone: 93-325-7866 http://www.poble-espanyol.com Carrer d'Aristides Maillol 12 Barcelona, Spain 8028 Phone: 93-496-3600 http://www.fcbarcelona.com Montcada 15-23 Barcelona, Spain 8003 Phone: 93-256-3000 http://www.museupicasso.bcn.es
Monday 9 am-8 pm, Tuesday-Thursday 9 am-2 am, Friday 9 am-4 am, Saturday 9 am-5 am, Sunday 9 am-midnight. 8.90 euros adults, 5.60 euros children.
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Neighborhoods & Districts

Barri Gotic The Gothic Quarter is the oldest portion of Barcelona, a warren of narrow streets on the northeast side of La Rambla. It was originally the site of the Roman settlement and the area later encompassed by the medieval walls. Now it's one of the city's most interesting districts, packed with shops, bars and restaurants, many of them occupying centuries-old buildings. Sights of note include the cathedral, a number of museums and surviving bits of Roman walls. The nerve center of the old city, Placa Sant Jaume, goes back to Roman times, when it formed the intersection of the north-south and east-west roads. It's an excellent starting point from which to explore the rest of the Gothic Quarter. Farther to the east you'll find the Born area. Several of the handsome old mansions there now house museums, including the Museu Picasso. Nestled between Parc de la Ciutadella and Via Laietana, El Born offers an eclectic mix of designer fashion outlets and small artisan shops for you to explore during the day, and plenty of bars, restaurants, nightclubs and terraces to sample at night. Eixample This area of the city was first built in the mid-1800s after the medieval walls were demolished and Barcelona was allowed to expand. The Eixample (pronounced eye-SHAAM-pla) was laid out according to a plan drawn up by top local planner Ildefons Cerda and is made up of a uniform grid of avenues with the corners of each block "flattened" or pushed in to make a hexagon out of a squareit's easy to identify on maps. The Eixample quickly became a fashionable residential and shopping area (which it remains). It's the prime area in which to view the buildings of the modernisme movement. At the western edge of the Eixample is the Parc Joan Miro with the colorful totemic landmark of Miro's Woman and Bird rising from a small lake. It's especially pretty when lit up at night. El Raval On the opposite side of La Rambla from the Barri Gotic, El Raval once had a reputation as a famous red-light district (also known as the Barrio Chino, or Barri Xino), and although today street walkers still parade, there are far fewer of them than before. The area has undergone extensive revamping, making it a fascinating mixture of the old and the ultramodern. One of Gaudi's buildings, the Palau Guell, lies just a half block off La Rambla, although only part of it is open. Many fashionable bars and restaurants are also in the area, attracting a young, bohemian crowd, and its range of down-to-earth eating spots is the most ethnically varied in the whole city. The neighborhood can still be a bit dicey at times, however, so be cautious if visiting after dark. Gracia Stroll up the Passeig de Gracia, cross the Diagonal, and you're in Gracia on the northern edge of Eixample, formerly a town in its own right before it was swallowed by Barcelona's growth. Turn into the warren of narrow streets and enjoy a more private Barcelona with an atmosphere of its own. The district is characterized by independent design, and art and cinema movements, and is home to myriad specialist shops, trendy bars and restaurants. You can find old-fashioned herbalists and junk shops as well as stylishly renovated stores, superb delicatessens and two municipal food markets. Placa del Sol and Placa Rius i Taulet are the main squares where you can enjoy a drink on a cafe terrace. The nightlife, which attracts people from all over town, centers on Carrer Verdi. The area is also famous for its spectacular street parties and celebrations in August. Montjuic You'll need at least a full day to enjoy all that this landmark hill, the largest green area in the city, has to offer. It has a prominent castle, museums, various parks and botanical gardens, an amusement park, and the stadium and other facilities used in the 1992 Olympic Games as well as Poble Espanyol, a village that includes facsimiles of buildings from throughout Spain. Numerous ways of getting up the hill include escalators, buses, cable cars and a funicular train. Port Vell The old port area, which surrounds the point where La Rambla meets the sea, doesn't appear old: It has been the site of renovation in recent decades. The statue of Columbus at the foot of La Rambla makes a convenient starting point for exploring this area. (Take the small elevator to the top to get your surroundings in perspective.) Nearby, in the old royal shipyard building, is the Museu Maritim de Barcelona. To the northeast is La Barceloneta, the traditional fishermen's district and home to the best seafood restaurants in town. For practical purposes, La Barceloneta can be thought of as part of Port Vell, although it's really a totally different district with a character all its own.
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Vila Olimpica The area of the Olympic Village was once a wasteland of derelict factories, railroad tracks and warehouses, vestiges of its former glory days as a thriving industrial zone. Today, it's a stylish residential district. With its fountains and gardens, shopping malls and cinema complexes, it is also a popular leisure space for locals and visitors alike. It includes 2.5 mi/4 km of beach and the Port Olympic, packed with restaurants, bars and discos. On Sunday, it seems as if the whole of Barcelona is down in the Vila Olimpica area; the restaurants are crammed then, so if you can see it on another day, you'll enjoy a quieter and more relaxing visit.
Parks & Gardens

Parc de Cervantes On the edge of the city and stretching to the foothills, this luxuriant park is a favorite haunt of bikers and joggers. It has children's play areas, a pine-shaded picnic area and some vintage olive trees. The rose garden has more than 10,000 plants, which flower at different times AprilNovember.
Avinguda Diagonal 706 Barcelona, Spain 8034
Open daily 10 am-6 pm December-February, 10 am-7 pm March and November, 10 am-8 pm April and October, 10 am-9 pm MaySeptember. Parc de la Ciutadella Charmingly old-fashioned in its geometrical layout, the Parc Ciutadella is leafy and restful, yet Passeig Pujades and Passeig Picasso filled with surprises such as the flamboyant waterfall and fountain (whose designer was assisted Barcelona, Spain by the student Antoni Gaudi), the sculpture of the dainty Lady With the Umbrella by Roig i Sole, rare trees and a boating lake. Originally a citadel built in 1715 to keep Barcelona in line after the War of the Spanish Succession, this area was handed over to the city in 1869 and turned into a park. Barcelona started on its cosmopolitan journey when the park was chosen as the site for the Universal Exhibition of 1888, the gateway to which was the Arc de Triomf (Triumphal Arch). A cafe-restaurant built for the Exhibition is now the Zoology Museum. Still standing are the Hivernacle (conservatory) with a cafeteria, the shady Umbracle (tropical hothouse) and the geology museum. The southeast end of the park is taken up by the zoo. Daily 10 am-sunset. Parc Guell Gaudi's dreamland creation and now a UNESCO World Heritage site, Park Guell has been painstakingly restored and is a must-see. It was originally planned as a housing development, but only a few buildings were completed, including the gingerbread gatehouse. Some of Barcelona's most famous visual symbols are in the park: Gaudi's mosaic dragon (or lizard), the monumental plaza with its colorful serpentine bench made in trencadis (interwoven fragments of multicolored ceramic) and fabulous views of the city. The park stretches up the hill, with twisting paths through the woods.
Olot 7 Barcelona, Spain 8024 Phone: 93-219-3811 http://www.casamuseugaudi.org/cmeng/docs_instit/parkguell.php
Free park admission, 5.50 euros adults for the Gaudi House-Museum, where the architect spent the last 20 years of his life.
Amusement Parks
Parc d'Atraccions del Tibidabo This amusement park is perched on Tibidabo, the summit of the Collserola Range, amid whose high woodlands you can enjoy a pine-scented breather from the congestion in the city below. The thrills include a roller coaster and some rides that date from 1901. The park also has a spectacular view of the city. The unique Museu d'Automates is a collection of old fairground machines. Park hours vary depending on the time of year and day of the week. Entrance and unlimited rides 25.20 euros, 9 euros for children shorter than 47 in/1.2 m tall.
Placa Tibidabo 3-4 Barcelona, Spain 8035 Phone: 93-211-7942 http://www.tibidabo.cat
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Wineries, Breweries & Distilleries

Miguel Torres A 30-40 minute bus or car ride west of the city takes you to the wine-producing town of Vilafranca del Penedes and Torres, Catalunya's top bodega. There, for a small fee, you can learn how wine is made (and ask lots of questions); multimedia presentations are offered along with a physical tour through working vineyards. Wine tastings and a shop are also on-site. Tours available Monday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm, Sunday and holidays 9 am-1 pm.
M. Torres, 6, 08720 Vilafranca del Penedes Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-817-7400 http://www.torres.es
Zoos & Wildlife

L'Aquarium de Barcelona Take a walk through shark-infested waters while staying safe and dry. The secret is a 260-ft/80-m-long transparent tunnel that lets you stroll through the Oceanario, the main tank that contains thousands of specimens. Outside the fishy depths, amenities for humans include an interactive area for small children, an auditorium, a cafeteria, a gift shop and a panoramic terrace.
Moll d'Espanya Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-221-7474 http://www.aquariumbcn.com
Monday-Friday 9:30 am-9 pm (till 9:30 pm June and September, till 11 pm July and August), Saturday and Sunday 9:30 am-9:30 pm. Last admission one hour before closing time. 17.75 euros adults, 12.75 euros children ages 4-12. Zoo de Barcelona This pleasant zoo is located in Parc de la Ciutadella. It includes dolphin shows and farm animals. The zoo also offers shady picnic areas, pony rides and play equipment. Open daily 10 am-5 pm November to mid-March, till 6 pm late March-May and October, till 7 pm June-September. 16.50 euros adults, 9.90 euros children ages 3-12.
Passeig Pujades and Passeig Picasso (in Parc de la Ciutadella) Barcelona, Spain Phone: 902-457-545 http://www.zoobarcelona.com
Other Options
Font Magica If you're visiting in summer, let the changing forms and colors of the Font Magica, originally designed for the International Exposition of 1929, mesmerize you. As the water jets dance to music, a fanlike light show plays from behind the dome of the Palau Nacional.
Placa Carles Buigas 1 Barcelona, Spain 8038
The fountain operates on the half-hour Thursday-Sunday 9:30-11:30 pm May-September, Friday and Saturday 7-8:30 pm October-April. Free.
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Zona Forum The district of Sant Adria de Besos was completely renovated for the 2004 Universal Forum of Barcelona, Spain Cultures. The legacy of this event is a state-of-the-art complex with extensive facilities for conferences, exhibitions, concerts and cultural events. The forum complex forms part of a tourist http://www.barcelona2004.org route on the double-decker Barcelona Bus Turistic and can also be reached by the tramline specifically built for the Forum. By car, follow Avinguda Diagonal north until it meets the sea. Its vanguard architecture alone makes it worth a visit. http://www.barcelona2004.org.
Recreation
The most popular recreation area in Barcelona is the seafront, especially near Vila Olimpica. Walkers, joggers, bicyclists and in-line skaters all make use of the area, where they can be mobile without the worries of automobile traffic. The city's beaches are there, too, extending from Barceloneta eastward. What's more, Port Olimpic at Vila Olimpica offers opportunities for sailing and other watersports. For hiking in a real Mediterranean wood filled with wildflowers and herbs, Collserola Natural Park is only a short train journey away from the city to the mountains north and west of Barcelona. Get there by taking the Terrassa/Sabadell line of FGC train network, which departs from the Placa Catalunya. The park is a short walk from the Baixador de Vallvidrera. Phone 93-280-3552. http://www.parccollserola.net/angles/home/home.htm.
Beaches
In times past, only the foolish would splash into the polluted waters near Barcelona. An efficient purification system greatly improved the quality of the waters once the city began preparing for the Olympics, and swimming there is now a positive pleasure. The coastline from Barceloneta northeast to Rio Besos was converted from industrial wasteland to seaside playground. Visitors can enjoy more than 2.5 mi/4 km of sandy shore. It's broken up into different sections with different names: Platja Sant Sebastia, Platja Barceloneta, Platja Nova Icaria, Platja Bogatell, Platja Mar Bella and Platja Nova Mar Bella. A promenade and a number of bars and restaurants can be found along the beaches. The whole area has become popular for sunning, strolling, bicycling, in-line skating and general hanging around. If you want to swim, be sure to check the flags on the beach, which indicate whether the surf is dangerous: A green flag indicates that it's safe to enter the water, yellow indicates that you should exercise caution while in the water and red means dangerous conditionsstay out of the water.
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Bicycling
City Hall is promoting the use of the bicycle as an alternative to the car, and the city has created numerous bicycle lanes. Where possible, these are segregated from traffic and pedestrians, though that's not always the case. Maps of the routes are available from the information offices. See the city's cycling Web site for maps, advice and a list of locations where you can rent bicycles both short- and long-term. http://www.bcn.es/bicicleta. The most enjoyable ride is on the seafront near Vila Olimpica, where you will be undisturbed by traffic. You will have to negotiate joggers, walkers and in-line skaters, though: This is a popular place. Un Cotxe Menys-Bike Tours Barcelona The name of this ecologically conscious rental outfit means "One Car Less" in Catalan, and groups are formed daily next to the tourist office in Plaza San Jaume to pick up the bikes. No reservations are necessary for groups of fewer than 15 people. Tours last about three hours, and most of the route uses cycle lanes, parks and pedestrian zones.
Esparteria 3 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-268-2105 http://www.bicicletabarcelona.com
Daily tours at 11 am and also 4:30 pm Friday-Monday April to mid-September. 22 euros (includes bike rental, guide and drink). Bicycles can also be rented separately by the hour (5 euros), day (15 euros) or half-day (10 euros). Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. Call ahead if you want to rent a bike outside those hours.
Golf
Real Club de Golf El Prat This 45-hole course, designed by Greg Norman, replaced the aging 1950s-era golf club of the same name. The new course moved from the previous location by the airport to Terrassa, located a short distance from Barcelona. A golf school is also on-site. Open all year. Contact the club directly or check the Web site for tee times and greens fees.
Plans de Bonvilar No. 17 Terrassa, Spain Phone: 93-728-1000 http://www.rcgep.com
Club de Golf Sant Cugat This 18-hole course is located about 12 mi/20 km outside the city. Call ahead or check Web site for tee times and greens fees.
Calle Villa 79, San Cugat del Valles Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-674-3908 http://www.golfsantcugat.com
Horseback Riding
L'Escola Municipa d'Hipica La Foixarda Right up on Montjuic Hill close to the Poble Espanyol, this riding school is one of the most popular in Barcelona. Accomodates all levels and ages.
Avinguda Muntayans 14-16 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-426-1066 http://hipicalafoixarda.com
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Tennis & Racquet Sports

Centre Municipal de Tenis This Upper Barcelona tennis club has long been a favorite with many major players with its 24 grass and clay courts located amid attractive gardens.
Passeig Vall d'Hebron 178 Barcelona, Spain
Real Club de Tennis Barcelona-1899 The facilities include 18 tennis courts, a gym, fitness center and a swimming pool.
Bosch i Gimpera 5 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-203-7852 http://www.rctb1899.es
Nightlife
Barcelona has always had a reputation as a party town. It's still true, though the emphasis now has more to do with trendy designer bars than seedy sailor dives. The rougher places are still there, though, especially in earthy districts such as Raval, should you wish to find them. Like other parts of Spain, Barcelona's club scene hits its peak in the wee hours and doesn't end till morningmany dance venues remain open until 5 am, though quieter bars close around 1 or 2 am. Try to set aside one evening for a stroll through the Barri Gotic, in particular the Born area, and see what bars and bodegas the twisting streets lead you to. In warm weather, you'll find that lots of outdoor plazas become extensions of the surrounding bars, and performers such as jugglers and musicians often stop by to put on a quick show. Those looking for a little more excitement will find the clubs of Port Vell and Vila Olimpica not too far away. The gay crowd might enjoy the bars in Eixample. There are more options outside the city center. In general terms, the higher up and farther away from the sea you go, the more upmarket the scene. A young, affluent crowd hangs out in bars and clubs around Santalo and Placa Francesc Macia. Tibidabo, with its wonderful views of the city, offers an incomparably elegant setting.
Bars, Taverns & Pubs

Boadas Some places never go out of fashion. Boadas, just off La Rambla, is among Barcelona's oldest cocktail bars, founded in 1933 by the father of the present owner, who brought his cocktailmixing skills from the famous cocktail bar El Floridita in Havana, Cuba. It's a good choice for a pre- or post-dinner drink. Try a mojito, a subtle but lethal Cuban concoction of rum and mint. Monday-Saturday noon-2 am. La Vinya del Senyor This chic and charming little bar sits opposite the church of Santa Maria del Mar. It's one of the few places where you can try quality wines and cavas by the glass (more than 100 different choices), along with slivers of the finest Iberian ham, pungent La Mancha cheese, Kalamata olives from Greece and other delectable snacks. Monday-Thursday noon-1 am, until 2 am Friday and Saturday, until midnight Sunday.
Placa Santa Maria 5, Born Barcelona, Spain 8003 Tallers 1 Barcelona, Spain 8001
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Marsella For those who want to live out their fantasies of being a decadent writer or artist, the dustily Sant Pau 65 atmospheric Marsella can fulfill your wishes. Said to be the oldest bar in town, it opened in Barcelona, Spain 1820. A specialty there is absinthe, the highly potent liqueur that was a favorite of Van Gogh and other bohemians in the late 1800s and early 1900s. It's illegal now in much of the world, but not in Spain. The fantasy is enhanced by the bar's location in a rather seedy area of the Raval. Don't let your fantasy go too far, though: This a questionable area to walk through late at night, especially after sampling 140-proof booze. Monday-Saturday from 10 pm. Mirablau This comfortable, elegant dance bar is at the foot of Tibidabo with fabulous views of the city. The terrace is a good place to sip drinks as you watch the sun go down. Later, there's dancing. Monday-Saturday from 11 am, Sunday from noon. Dancing begins at 11 pm. Miramelindo Set in the heart of the fashionable Born area, this bar has a reputation for some of the best mojitos in town. Enjoy a refreshing cocktail and relax in a spacious and softly lit interior. Listen to jazz or chill-out music mingled with enthusiastic banter. Sunday-Thursday from 8:30 pm, Friday and Saturday from 8 pm. Schilling This Austrian-founded bar is centrally located on the Gothic quarter's main thoroughfare. In the evenings, the crowd is predominantly gay. In the afternoon, it is relatively quiet and a prime spot for aspiring writers and artists who sit at tables by windows and draw inspiration from the city. Though it is less fashionable than it was some years ago, it remains one of the classic places to meet with friends and begin a serious night out. Daily 10 am-2:30 am.
Ferran 23 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-317-6787 http://www.cafeschilling.com Passeig del Born 15, Born Barcelona, Spain Placa Dr. Andreu (at bottom of Tibidabo funicular train) Barcelona, Spain 8035
Dance & Nightclubs

Boulevard Culture Club This hopping, central club on La Rambla is an upgraded version of the previous Club Fellini. The three dance floors feature techno, house and funk music. Wednesday-Saturday midnight-6 am. Cover charge varies.
La Rambla 27 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-301-6209 http://www.boulevardcultureclub.com
Carpe Diem Lounge Club & Restaurant In the late afternoon, chill out in two large Bedouin tents and enjoy your (pricey but good) cocktail on comfy white leather sofas big enough to serve as beds. Since you need to remove your shoes, be sure your socks look good, too. Later in the night, the location turns into a funky party zoneif you feel like it, you can go for a swim under the stars in the Mediterranean, just across the street. Open daily except Sunday 2 pm-3 am.
Passeig Maritim 32 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-224-0470 http://www.cdlcbarcelona.com
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Gaym Previously Dboy, this popular gay club in the center of Barcelona operates just one night a week. It has two dance floors that play pop and house music. Saturday midnight-6 am. No cover before 3 am. Luz de Gas This very popular nightclub is situated in an old theater. Live music (blues, jazz, soul and rock) is played Monday-Saturday starting at 11:30 pm. The Friday and Saturday disco begins at midnight: lively tunes from the 1970s through 1990s as well as more contemporary dance music. Cover charge varies; see Web site for details.
Muntaner 246 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-209-7711 http://www.luzdegas.com Ronda Sant Pere 19-21 Barcelona, Spain
Otto Zutz The ultrafashionable Otto Zutz has four floors, each with its own particular style and atmosphere. The main dance floor, which has three bars and is overlooked by two balconies, is situated on the ground floor. There, international DJs spin house and garage music. The Hot Club, located on the first floor, plays music from the 1970s-80s and more recent hip-hop. Los Altos on the top floor is the VIP lounge and is often frequented by local celebrities (try to look important). The Red Room has electro-'80s music. Tuesday-Saturday from midnight. Cover charge varies. Red Lounge One of the most fashionable club-bar-restaurants of Barcelona, with a distinctly exotic-oriental flair and located right on the beach. It sees its fair share of glitteratti.
Passeig Juan de Borbon 78 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-221-3093 http://www.redloungebcn.com Lincoln 15 Barcelona, Spain 8006 Phone: 93-238-0722 http://www.ottozutz.com
Rita Blue This cool cocktail bar and restaurant in retro design turns into a house-and-techno disco on weekends. The mojitos and caipirinhas are definitely not for the faint-hearted. Chill out on the terrace with lots of fresh air. Located on a small street off La Rambla. Open Monday-Friday 7 pm-2 am, Saturday and Sunday until 3 am.
Placa de Sant Agusti 3 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-342-4086 http://www.ritablue.com
Shoko During the day, this beachfront club is a Japanese restaurant. At night, it's a place to go to chill out and listen to different genres of music, from the more relaxed to the harder house and drumand-bass, all with feng-shui design and plenty of VIP areas. Dress to impress and take plenty of money. Cover 20 euros-70 euros depending on the artist. Drinks are high-priced as well.
Passeig Maritim de La Barceloneta 36 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-225-9200 http://www.shoko.biz
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Up & Down Previously known as Oshum and before that Pasha, the Up & Down Club has two main spaces for dance, as well as a terrace and various smaller party spaces. Visit the Web site for a listing of parties and events, as well as VIP-list and guest-list information. Thursday-Saturday from midnight. Cover varies.
Ave. Doctor Maranon 17, Zona Universitaria Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-448-6115 http://www.upanddownbarcelona.com
Live Music
Antilla BCN Club The hottest salsateca in town, with lots of live acts. Dance the night away with merengue, son, salsa and tango. If you don't know how to dance, take the dance lessons on offer. Pretty girls can get some dance lessons for free on the spot from handsome Cuban or Colombian dancers. Daily 11 pm-5 am.
Calle d'Arago 141 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-451-4564 or 93-451-2151 http://www.antillasalsa.com
Harlem Jazz Club This unpretentious and intimate jazz club is a favorite with locals and frequented by local musicians. The live sessions, at 10:30 pm during the week and 11:30 pm on Friday and Saturday, include Brazilian music, blues and flamenco fusion in addition to jazz. Daily except Monday from 8 pm. Cover charge varies according to the performers.
Comtessa de Sobradiel 8 Barcelona, Spain 8002 Phone: 93-310-0755 http://www.harlemjazzclub.es
La Pedrera de Nit If you're in town on a summer weekend, don't miss the opportunity to go clubbing on the roof of Gaudi's famous La Pedrera apartment building. Have a drink, admire the city view and listen to a live band.
Provenca 261-5 Barcelona, Spain 8025
Open July-September Friday and Saturday 9 pm-1 am. Dates and ticket prices vary seasonally; call or check the Web site for the most upto-date information. Los Tarantos Offers flamenco tablaos (shows) as well as Latin and salsa music. Like most flamenco presentations, these can be a bit tourist-oriented, and Barcelona is far from the heartland of flamenco, which is in southern Spain. Nonetheless, Los Tarantos offers the best you'll find in the city. After the flamenco show ends around midnight, the establishment becomes the Jamboree nightclub, with live jazz, Latin and blues, followed by a disco. Monday from 10 pm, Tuesday-Sunday from 11 pm. 6 euros for flamenco, 8 euros-10 euros for the nightclub.
Placa Reial 17 Barcelona, Spain 8002 Phone: 93-319-1789 http://www.masimas.com
Performing Arts
Given Barcelona's other artistic leanings, it's not surprising that the performing arts are well-represented in the city.
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher Theater has always enjoyed great vitality in Barcelona, and several dance companies call Barcelona home. There's also opera, chamber music, jazz, symphony and flamenco productions.
Dance
Among the dance companies in Barcelona are Compania de Danza Mar Gomez (http://www.danzamargomez.com), Erre Que Erre (http://www.errequeerredanza.net) and Marta Carrasco (http://www.martacarrasco.com). All of them have irregular performance schedules. Watch for listings. One distinctive dance performance that should not be missed is the sardana, Catalonia's national dance. Participants link hands in a large circle and do intricate steps. Informal sardana sessions take place every Sunday around noon in front of the Cathedral and in the evening (around 7 pm) in Placa Sant Jaume. The dancers are accompanied by a traditional band called a cobla, and you're welcome to join in the circle.
Gelabert-Azzopardi Companyia de Dansa The duo of Barcelona's Cesc Gelabert and Londoner Lydia Azzopardi shows some of the best dance performances in Spain. Watch for listings.
Principe de Asturias, 63-65, 4o-4a Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-416-0068 http://www.gelabertazzopardi.com
Music
Orfeo Catala The largely amateur group was founded as one of the patriotic and social movements at the end of the 19th century. Franco, who feared Catalan nationalism, had it banned. Nowadays, the group serves as a choir for the Orquestra Simfonica and other Catalan orchestras and performs in concerts.
Palau de la Musica Catalana Barcelona, Spain Phone: 902-442-882 http://www.palaumusica.org
Orquestra Simfonica de Barcelona i Nacional de Catalunya (OBC) The orchestra performs October-May, usually Friday-Sunday in the Auditori. Each year at least two works of Catalan composers are performed. Its director is Pablo Gonzalez Bernardo.
Carrer Lepant 150 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-247-9300 http://www.auditori.org
Orquestra Simfonica i Cor del Gran Teatre del Liceu The Symphony Orchestra and Chorus of the Liceu Opera House performs international coproductions, which have included Richard Wagner's Tannhauser and Benjamin Britten's Death in Venice. Expect quite avant-gardistic interpretations.
La Rambla 51-59 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-485-9900 http://www.liceubarcelona.com
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Theater
Theater companies in Barcelona include Dagoll Dagom (http://www.dagolldagom.com), Els Joglars (http://www.elsjoglars.com) and Tricicle (http://www.tricicle.com)all offering the sort of spellbinding, multidisciplinary spectacles that leap over language barriers. None of these companies has a set schedule or theater venue, however, so watch for listings in the newspapers and entertainment guides. Apart from the landmark theaters Liceu and Palau de la Musica, you can enjoy vibrant theater performances at the Mercat de les Flors (http://www.mercatflors.org), the Teatre Lliure (http://www.teatrelliure.com), the Teatre Nacional de Catalunya (http://www.tnc.cat), the Teatre Poliorama (http://www.teatrepoliorama.com) or the Teatre Romea (http://www.teatreromea.com). There's also a smattering of alternative theaters, such as Theatre Tantarantana (http://www.tantarantana.com), Espai Escenic Brossa (http://www.laseca.cat), L'Antic Teatre (http://www.lanticteatre.com) and Sala Muntaner (http://www.salamuntaner.com). Tickets are usually available from Tel-Entrada. http://www.telentrada.com.
Els Comediants The most popular "comedians" gladly mix elements of commedia dell'arte and street performances. Watch them perform in the streets on national holidays or during major theater festivals.
Carrer Comediants s/n Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-795-4859 http://www.comediants.com
La Fura dels Baus Barcelona's best-known provocative theater company is known for its rowdy performances, which include anything from polemical to shocking to pornographic. The first-row seats are best avoided unless you love to catch some dirt or mock blood flying from the stage. Venues vary.
Pujades 77-79, 2-6, Poblenou Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-662-4047 http://www.lafura.com
Ticket Brokers
Servicaixa Affiliated with La Caixa savings bank. If you have a credit card, tickets can be purchased online, by phone or at ATMs located at many of the bank's branches.
Barcelona, Spain Phone: 902-332-211 http://www.servicaixa.com
Tel-Entrada Caixa Catalunya Tickets can be purchased online, by phone or at most branches of Caixa Catalunya savings bank.
Barcelona, Spain Phone: 902-101-212 http://www.telentrada.com
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Venues
Gran Teatre del Liceu The Barcelona Opera House, a plush showplace on La Rambla (built in 1847 and painstakingly reconstructed after a major fire in 1994) is the major venue for operas, classical concerts and dance productions. But it also houses cutting-edge avant-garde shows by controversal companies such as La Fura dels Baus. It often stages co-productions with other leading music and dance companies in Europe.
La Rambla 51-59 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-485-9900 http://www.liceubarcelona.com
It has an auditorium with 2,292 modern seats whose backs show subtitles in various languages, while Catalan subtitles are shown above the stage as if nobody understood Spanish. The small Espai Liceu seats 50 spectators. L'Auditori This modern (and a little cold-feeling) concert hall is renowned for its acoustics and facilities. It is the home of the Orquestra Simfonica de Barcelona i Nacional de Catalunya, which performs in the 2,400-seat auditorium, while smaller jazz and flameco productions are staged in the 600seat space that also has chamber music concerts. There's another space with 400 seats that shows experimental productions and performances for children.
Carrer Lepant 150 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-247-9305 http://www.auditori.org
Palau de la Musica Catalana This World Heritage Building, a marvelous riot of colorful modernista architecture and decoration built in 1908, is the venue for some of the best international musical productions and stars. The Orfeo Catala choir performs there, too, and there are many excellent performances of orchestral music.
Palau de la Musica 4-6 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 902-442-882 http://www.palaumusica.org
Spectator Sports
There's no doubt that the city's sports scene is dominated by soccer, in the shape of FC Barcelona, also known as Barca. There's a slogan that has been repeated endlessly, but it's quite true: "Barca es mes qu'un club" (Barca is more than a club). Barca is more than a soccer team in another sense: The FC Barcelona organization also fields basketball, handball, ice-hockey and roller-hockey teams, which have smaller, though equally devoted, followings. The city also has another first-division soccer club, RCD Espanyol.
Soccer
FC Barcelona This organization operates Barcelona's wildly popular soccer team and several other sports clubs. During the repressive Franco years, when everything Catalan was outlawed, Barca was the best outlet for the collective expression of Catalan identity. Today, it's one of the biggest soccer clubs in the world and still followed with almost religious fervor. As a result, it's very difficult to get tickets. A small number are made available two days before a match, and lines at the stadium ticket windows are very long. If you can find tickets at face value, they range 19 euros-265 euros.
Nou Camp Stadium, Avinguda Aristides Maillol Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-496-3600 or 902-189-900 for tickets http://www.fcbarcelona.com
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RCD Espanyol Barcelona's second club in Spain's Primera Liga is often overlooked but actually plays very good soccer and made it into the UEFA cup final in 2007. It's a lot easier to get tickets, except when they play against their big rival.
Avinguda Baix Llobregat 100 (west of the city center in Cornella de Llobregat) Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-292-7700 http://www.rcdespanyol.com
Shopping
The industrious Catalans have often been dubbed a nation of shopkeepers, and Barcelona does have a staggering number of shops of every kind and in every neighborhood. Barri Gotic and El Raval, in particular, have many quirky little shops with long family traditions, struggling for survival in the face of malls and big-name merchants. A little shopping time spent around Placa Catalunya will introduce you to El Corte Ingles department store and El Triangle shopping mall. Large or small, many of the city's merchants play to the city's love of design. In clothes, look for Catalan designers such as Antonio Miro and Adolfo Dominguez. Leather shoes, bags, wallets and belts can be particularly stunning and a good value. Some of the best choices are the Spanish brands: Loewe, Yanko, Farrutx and Camper. Even if you never set foot in a store, you'll get to appreciate the city's sense of style by strolling past elaborate window displays. Food and drink are also highly prized in Barcelona and make good souvenirs. Stock up on olives and cheese at La Boqueria market on La Rambla and cold-pressed virgin olive oil and Spanish wine at a large grocer such as Colmado Quilez. If you don't mind carting (or shipping) heavy parcels home, treat yourself to an earthenware cooking pot, a cast iron plantxa or the more portable ceramic tapas dishes. To guide you through this cornucopia, the city has mapped out the 3-mi-/5-km-long Shopping Line (http://www.shoppinglinebarcelonasl.com), which links different shopping areas that also happen to be dotted with many of the most interesting tourist sights. The comfortable TombBus links the areas, running from Placa Catalunya to El Corte Ingles store at the top end of the Diagonal and back. The Barcelona Card transportation pass will give you a discount at a number of shops on the route: They're identified by the Shopping Line logofour colored diamonds in a white circle within a blue circle. Shopping Hours: Generally, Monday-Saturday 9 or 10 am to 1:30 or 2 pm and 4:30 or 5 pm to 7:30-9 pm (closed Saturday afternoon). Many neighborhood food stores and bakeries open at the crack of dawn, have a long break at lunch and are open again 5-9 pm. The department stores, shopping malls and many of the larger stores on the main shopping streets stay open at lunchtime and until 10 pm. In summer, many shops close on Saturday afternoon. Sunday opening is strictly regulated: The big stores and malls are allowed to open on eight Sundays each year, including the four Sundays before Christmas. Otherwise, you'll mostly find only convenience stores and gift shops open on Sunday.
Antique Stores
Bulevard dels Antiquaris This mall of specialist antiques shops (more than 70 in all) is definitely worth a leisurely visit. You'll find furniture and lamps, dolls and perfume bottles, lace and jewelry. The best prizes, in our opinion, are the 13th-century Peruvian textiles with still-bright colors and the Himalayan and African art. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8:30 pm, closed on Saturday in July and August.
Passeig de Gracia 55-57 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-215-4499 http://www.bulevarddelsantiquaris.com
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Bookstores
Barcelona is the international capital of publishing in Spain, and it has been since the 1600s. Hundreds of bookstores thrive in the city. Although the majority of the traditional shops in the Barri Gotic focus on books in Spanish and Catalan, it is not uncommon to come across rare copies of books in English, French, Arabic, Hebrew, Italian or Latin. If you consider yourself a true bibliophile, you should definitely visit as many used-book shops as you can. Even if you do not discover any hidden treasures, you can drool over rare editions of Don Quixote. Casa del Libro Great selection of books and especially travel guides, also in English (the latter at only minimally higher prices than back home). If you read Spanish, you will be busy browsing hundreds of books about Barcelona and Catalonia. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-9:30 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-3 pm and 4:30-9:30 pm.
Passeig de Gracia 62 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 902-026-407 http://www.casadellibro.com
Hibernian Books Barcelona's only second-hand English-language bookshop is in a rambling, multiroom building in the heart of the Gracia district. It has the feel of a old British literary backwater and exudes an aura of homely intellectualism. You can choose from an eclectic range of more than 40,000 volumes covering everything from in-depth history and philosophy to light romances and children's books. Open Monday 4-8:30 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 10:30 am-8:30 pm. Shorter hours in August. La Central This bookstore chain has five locations in Barcelona. The one at the Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona (Placa del Angels 1) has an impressive art section, and La Central del Raval (Elisabets 6) has a pleasant cafe. The shops frequently organize literary events, which are occasionally in English. Monday-Friday 10 am-9 pm, Saturday 10:30 am-9 pm. Also open Sunday 10:30 am-3 pm at the Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona location only. . Laie Libreria Cafe The best international bookshop in town, perfect for civilized browsing as well as coffee, lunch or dinner. Store and cafe open Monday-Friday 9 am-9 pm, Saturday 10 am-9 pm.
Pau Claris 85 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-318-1739 http://www.laie.es Barcelona, Spain Phone: 902-884-990 http://www.lacentral.com Carrer Montseny 17 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-217-4796 http://www.hibernian-books.com
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Department Stores
El Corte Ingles Spain's most emblematic department store, where you can find anything and everything. The huge branch in Placa Catalunya is the most convenient for Barcelona visitors. It can get uncomfortably crowded, but tired shoppers can take a breather and enjoy the view from the rooftop cafeteria. Around the corner of Portal de l'Angel is a branch specializing in sports and leisure. Monday-Saturday 10 am-10 pm.
Placa Catalunya 14 Barcelona, Spain 8002 Phone: 902-224-411 http://www.elcorteingles.es
Markets
Els Encants Vells A wondrous assortment of junk and jumble awaits at Barcelona's well-loved flea market. Selection and prices are best early in the morning. Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday 7 am-6 pm (although the main activity occurs until 3 pm).
Placa de les Glories (Dos de Maig at Consell de Cent) Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-246-3030 http://www.encantsbcn.com
La Boqueria Also known as Mercat de Sant Josep, this is the oldest and most marvelous of Barcelona's 40 bustling municipal food markets. It absolutely should not be missed, and with its location just off La Rambla, it's not likely you'd accidentally pass by. Loaded with stall after stall of fresh fruit, fish, meat and vegetables, it's full of bright colors and exotic smells. Of particular interest are the egg stall, with more than 40 different types of eggs, and the stalls with chorizo and butifarra sausages. Seek out the Pinotxo bar for a breakfast of tasty coffee and churros. Great tapas, too, if you're there later in the day. Monday-Saturday 8 am-8 pm.
La Rambla 91 Barcelona, Spain 8002 Phone: 93-318-2584 http://www.boqueria.info
Shopping Areas
Bulevard Rosa In this shopping area, there is a collection of shops, from jewelry to accessories, designer clothes and shoes to housewares and gifts. Many hand-crafted and original designs and a witty philosophy, which suggests looking at life through "rose-tinted spectacles." Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 pm.
Paseo de Gracia 53 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-215-8331 http://www.bulevardrosa.com
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El Triangle A smart mall in Placa Catalunya, with a combination of small shops and big-name stores. Monday-Saturday 10 am-10 pm.
Placa Catalunya 1-4 Barcelona, Spain 8002 Phone: 93-318-0108 http://www.eltriangle.es
L'illa Housed in the unmistakable white building known as the Recumbent Skyscraper, this elegant and airy commercial center has numerous fashion shops and boutiques, a food market, an FNAC department store, lots of superb little stalls, coffee bars, eateries and a huge branch of the Caprabo supermarket. Monday-Saturday 10 am-9:30 pm. Maremagnum This Port Vell shopping center has been given a new lease on life with the addition of designer names such as Calvin Klein and the delectable Xocoa chocolate shop. You'll also find Mango, H&M and other popular chain stores, as well as shops catering to families, a Barca shop, and several coffee shops, tapas bars and restaurants. Open daily 10 am-10 pm; restaurants open until 1 am.
Moll d'Espanya 5-2a Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-225-8100 http://www.maremagnum.es Ave. Diagonal 557 Barcelona, Spain 8014 Phone: 93-444-0000 http://www.lilla.com
Specialty Stores
Biosca i Botey There are a lot of lamp stores in Barcelona (part of the city's love of design), but this one's a standout. It has a stylish inventory, from the trendiest little designer lamp to the weird and wonderful, with studio lighting and an antiques departments, too. It's impossible not to be lured in by the glowing colors and shapes you'll see in the window. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8:30 pm. Caelum Get thee to a nunnery? Well, not quite, but everything sold there has been produced by monks and nuns in Spanish monasteries. In the cafe downstairs, you can sample such culinary delicacies as cakes, cookies, sweets, honey, marzipan, wines and spirits. Open Monday-Thursday 10:30 am-8:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 10:30 am-11 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-9 pm. Camper Footwear is fun at this cheerful shop, which has elevated Mallorcan peasant sandals into a fashion trend with international appeal. Flat-soled and wedge styles come with round toes, bold stripes and bright colors and designs. Other options range from sturdy leather shoes to plastic boots to funky high heels. Also at Rambla de Catalunya 122 and other locations. Monday-Saturday 10 am-10 pm.
Pelai 13-37 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-302-4124. For the other locations, phone 93-217-2384 http://www.camper.com Carrer de la Palla 8 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-302-6993 http://www.caelumbarcelona.com Avenida Diagonal Barcelona, Spain 8008 Phone: 93-238-7373 http://www.bioscabotey.com
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Casa Munich The colorful sneakers of that old Catalan brand have become fashionable all over the world, but only in a few shops will you find the very sought-after special editions, which are presented there like icons in front of walls striped in black and white. There is a second location in L'Illa at Avenida Diagonal. Open daily except Sunday 11 am-9 pm. Cereria Subira Specializing in candles of every imaginable color, shape and size, this old store (founded in 1857) still has its original decor and is quite a sight in itself. Monday-Friday 9 am-1:30 pm and 4-7:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-1:30 pm. Colmado Quilez This is a wonderful grocery store that's jammed with cheeses, wine, meats and practically anything else you could want. Monday-Friday 9 am-2 pm and 4:30-8:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-2 pm.
Rambla de Catalunya 63 Barcelona, Spain 8007 Phone: 93-215-2356 http://www.lafuente.es Baixada Llibreteria 7 Barcelona, Spain 8002 Carrer Antic de Sant Joan 4 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-319-9608 http://www.munichsports.com
Custo The designer T-shirts and trendy club-wear are popular with the international club set. Spanish actress Penelope Cruz reportedly adores the label. There are multiple locations throughout Barcelona, including the flagship store, but the company's empire is growing all over the world. Monday-Saturday 10 am-10 pm.
Placa de les Olles 7 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-268-7893 http://www.custo-barcelona.com
Foix de Sarria This pastry shop, one of the most select in town, has a sort of hushed, reverential, almost museumlike air. It was founded in 1886 and belonged to the family of the famous Catalan poet J.V. Foix. Located in the main square of the Sarria neighborhood (not far from Museu Monestir de Pedralbes), it is famous for its petxines de Sarriashell-shaped candies made of almond and bitter chocolate. Around Easter, they have a stunning chocolate sculpture display. Daily 8 am-9 pm. La Manual Alpargatera A shoe shop specializing in the timelessly popular rope-soled espadrilles. Have a pair custommade or choose from the shop's mind-blowing selection. Either way, be sure to see them being made by hand in the back room. The shop itself is also interestinga haven of wrought-iron lamps and wooden beams unchanged since the 1940s. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-1:30 pm and 4:30-8 pm.
Avinyo 7 Barcelona, Spain 8002 Placa de Sarria 12-13 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-203-0473 http://foixdesarria.com
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Vila Viniteca Great selection of 6,000 different Catalan and Spanish wines. Wonderful cavas, sherries, brandies and some very rare finds. Also sells international wines. Tastings offered. Open daily except Sunday 8:30 am-8:30 pm.
Carrer Agullers 7-9, El Born Barcelona, Spain Phone: 90-232-7777 http://www.vilaviniteca.es
Vincon Barcelona's original and innovative design emporium stocks everything for the home, from elegant and practical kitchenware to fabrics to fun lamps. It's a lovely place to browse, and you can get glimpses of La Pedrera's inner courtyard from the upper floors. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8:30 pm.
Passeig de Gracia 96 Barcelona, Spain 8008 Phone: 93-215-6050 http://www.vincon.com
Xocoa Chocoholics will adore this place, which sells an amazing variety of chocolate creations. Chocolate with chili, rosemary, ginger, vanilla, almonds, raspberries or truffles. The products make great gifts, both because they are good for eating and because the wrappings are made by creative designers. Open Monday-Saturday 11 am-10 pm, Sunday noon-3 pm and 4-10 pm.
Carrer Vidriera 4 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-319-7905 http://www.xocoa-bcn.com
Itinerary
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Day Trips
To Montserrat. A mountain made up of a stunning ensemble of crags, Montserrat rises dramatically from the surrounding countryside 35 mi/60 km northwest of Barcelona. Nestled high in the folds of its unusual rock formations are a basilica and a Benedictine monastery, both owing their existence to the presence of the Virgin of Montserrat (La Moreneta), a handsome Romanesque sculpture of the Madonna and Child that belongs to the category of black virgins. The Virgin is the patron saint of Catalonia, and the statue has made Montserrat the region's most important place of pilgrimage. You can stand in line to touch the black Virgin inside the 16th-century basilica, which is crammed with works of art. The Montserrat Museum at the site contains even more treasures and artifacts. The place is somewhat spoiled by cafes and souvenir shops, but you can get away from the kitsch around the monastery by taking a funicular train to the top of Sant Jeroni peak. There, you can walk around and take in a view that on a clear day stretches north to the Pyrenees and east to the island of Mallorca. To get to Montserrat by car, take the A2 to the Martorell exit and follow the signs for Monistrol and Montserrat. You may want to park at the bottom and take the Aeri de Montserrat (the mountain cable car) to the monastery. If you wish to take a train from Barcelona, an FGC line (R5) runs from Placa Espanya to the Aeri de Montserrat, the cable car that takes you up the mountain. If going by train, inquire about discount passes that cover transportation, admission to Montserrat attractions and a buffet lunch. They're available at any FGC station. To Tossa de Mar. This quintessential picture-postcard town on the Costa Brava is only 56 mi/90 km northeast of Barcelona. Tossa de Mar's tiny old quarter is topped by a ruined castle that overlooks a crescent beach fringed by pines and headlands, and the town is still full of character despite the advance of mass tourism. It was once a base for such artists as Marc Chagall, and it served as the setting for the romantic movie Pandora and the Flying Dutchman (a statue of whose 1950s star Ava Gardner stands on a hillside above the bay). From the beach you can take great boat trips up and down the scenic blue-watered Rugged Coast, going south to Blanes and its superb botanical gardens or north to Sant Feliu de Guixols, capital of the Costa Brava. SARFA line buses run regularly to Tossa from Barcelona's Estacio Nord; the journey takes about 90 minutes.
To Sitges. A lively beach town 25 mi/40 km southwest of Barcelona on the Mediterranean, Sitges is intimate yet cosmopolitan, with a large gay community. The old town, whitewashed and flower-filled, nestles around a gently curving, clean beach with a little church sitting on the headland like a beacon. Sitges is great at any time of the year: Even if it's not actually beach weather, nothing could be more restful than strolling around and eating at one of the many fish restaurants on the seafront. If you feel like some culture, you can visit several museums, including the Cau Ferrat, which has a couple of El Grecos, and the Museu Romantic, with its antique doll collection. Sitges also hosts events throughout the year, including a particularly spectacular February carnival and an international film festival in autumn. You can get there on a RENFE train from Barcelona's Passeig de Gracia or Sants stations. By car, take the A16 motorway through Castelldefels and Garraf to Sitges. If you're feeling adventurous and not in a hurry, drive the slower but more scenic C246.
Local Tours
Several companies offer coach tours of the city with multilingual guides. Sights include the Barri Gotic, the Cathedral, the Olympic Village and Port, and Montjuic. Boat tours of the harbor are also available. For more details, inquire at the Oficina d'Informacio Turistica (tourist office) on Placa Catalunya. If you want to concentrate on the Barri Gotic, try the walking tour offered by Turisme de Barcelona. Bus Turistic This hop-on, hop-off bus service is ideal for tourists who want to hit the main sights. It is operated by the local transportation authority and offers three routes that stop at 44 different attractions. A multilingual guide points out the sights and can help you get oriented. A day ticket is 23 euros adults, 14 euros children; a two-day ticket is 30 euros adults, 18 euros children.
Barcelona, Spain http://www.bcn.travel/tours
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Gaudi Club This tour company specializes in Gaudi's architecture. Guided tours are conducted via bus, taxi, on foot and even by helicopter. Routes both within Barcelona and outside the city.
Riera de Sant Miquel 16 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-415-2566 http://www.gaudiclub.com
Las Golondrinas Sightseeing boats from Port Vell offer daily trips around the port or along the coast to the Olympic Village and the Forum. They leave from Placa Portal de la Pau behind the statue of Columbus. There are several boats per day, more during summer. Prices range 6.80 euros-14 euros adults, depending on the tour. . Turisme de Barcelona Walking Tours The tourist office of Barcelona offers six guided walking tours, including the Marina, Gotic, Picasso, Modernisme, Gourmet and Shopping tours. Space is limited, so book in advance. Dates and times of tours and ticket prices vary depending on the tour selected. For more information, contact the Placa Catalunya tourist office or the office on Placa Sant Jaume.
Carrer Ciutat 2 Barcelona, Spain 8002 Phone: 93-285-3832 http://www.barcelonaturisme.com Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-442-3106 http://www.lasgolondrinas.com
Dining
Dining Overview
Catalan cuisine resembles that of other Mediterranean countries and makes use of nuts, garlic, olive oil, tomatoes and herbs. One of the simplest and yet most delicious dishes (the one Catalans particularly yearn for when abroad) is pa amb tomaquet: a large slice of fresh country bread (toasted or not) rubbed with tomato and drizzled with virgin olive oil. It may be topped with Iberian ham, cheese and anchovies or served along with meat, chicken or fish a la brasa (cooked over a charcoal fire). Other local specialties include esqueixada (a salad of raw salt cod with onions and peppers), espinacs a la catalana (spinach sauteed with raisins and pine nuts) and bacalla a la llauna (salt cod with tomato, garlic and parsley). If you have a sweet tooth, crema catalana (a cinnamon- and lemon-flavored custard) is a must for dessert. Many restaurants advertise as serving cuina de mercat or cocina de mercado, meaning they use whatever is in season at the local market: Freshness is of the essence. There are restaurants serving dishes from other regions of Spain, too. Galician cuisine, in particular, is popular and available at the superb (and pricey) Botafumeiro as well as neighborhood bars. Restaurants specializing in the cuisine of other countries are also common. You can eat well anywhere in the city, although many of the most emblematic restaurants are clustered in the Barri Gotic and the Raval, with Barceloneta and the Olympic port being a must for seafood and the sheer pleasure of eating outdoors. Gracia, too, is full of eating places, many of them very inexpensive because they're more off-the-beaten tourist track. Like most Europeans, the Catalans begin their day with a light breakfast that may include bollos (rolls), churros (fried fritters) and pastries. Lunch is served about 1:30 pm at the very earliest, with peak time being 2-4 pm. Berenar or merienda is an afternoon snack taken at around 4 or 5 pm to get you through to a late dinner, which isn't served until 9 pm or later. The best bargains are available at lunch, when most restaurants offer the menu del dia or set lunch. Even the most basic (for little more than 10 euros) offer a choice of starter course, main course of meat or fish and dessert, plus a drink.
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher Expect to pay within these general guidelines for a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than 20 euros; $$ = 21 euros-40 euros; $$$ = 41 euros-70 euros; $$$$ = more than 70 euros.
Local & Regional

ABaC A contemporary classic that is part of the ABaC Hotel, the restaurant occupies a spacious dining room in the heart of the Born. Its talented young chef Jordi Cruz has gained this restaurant a Michelin star. Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Aqua Refined Spanish-Mediterranean cuisine served in a great location right on the beach. Beautiful people congregate on the terrace, but you can also enjoy the view through a large windowfront from the cozy, tastefully designed interior. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Passeig Maritim de la Barceloneta 30 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-225-1272 http://www.aguadeltragaluz.com Ave. Tibidabo 1 Barcelona, Spain 8003 Phone: 93-319-6600 http://www.abacbarcelona.com
Bilbao You couldn't find a better place to eat the authentic "Mediterranean diet." This well-loved local Perill 33 favorite on one of Gracia's narrowest streets serves whatever's in season, fresh and simply Barcelona, Spain 8012 cooked in the traditional style: artichokes sauteed with ham, wild mushrooms with garlic and parsley, meat or fish a la plantxa. Homemade desserts and a good wine list. Though not inexpensive, the quality makes it an unbeatable value. The menu del dia is an especially good bargain. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Cafe de L'Academia Charming restaurant located on the Placa Sant Just, one of the most beautiful squares in Barcelona, in a Gothic building dating from the 15th century. The Catalan food, using only the freshest ingredients, is excellent and surprisingly affordable: It's one of the best bets in Barcelona for lunch, which can be had for 13 euros. Try the eggplant terrine with goat cheese followed by codfish au gratin with artichoke mousse.
Carrer Lledo 1 Barcelona, Spain
Monday-Friday for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations highly recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Cal Pep One of the best culinary shows in town. Seafood tapas and fresh seasonal fish dishes are prepared in an open kitchen in full view of diners. The cavelike interior enhances the theatrical atmosphere. Monday for dinner only, Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for lunch only. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards.
Carrer Placa De las Ollas 8 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-310-7961 http://www.calpep.com
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Casa Calvet Dine on excellent Catalan food with Asian touches, served in a former office building designed by Antoni Gaudi. Try the duck liver with oranges, and rosemary ice cream for dessert. Wonderful game dishes in the fall. Open daily except Sunday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Casa Leopoldo This family-run restaurant has been serving Catalan fare since 1929. The grilled fish and seafood are all good, but everyone's favorite seems to be the scrambled eggs with shrimp. Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Closed for one week in January and in April, as well as the month of August. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Carrer Sant Rafael 24 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-441-3014 http://www.casaleopoldo.com Carrer de Casp 48 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-412-4012 http://www.casacalvet.es
Cent Focs This restaurant is popular with locals. Good food at very good prices. Warm atmosphere, large round tables and a traditional Catalan Mediterranean menu. Daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards.
Carrer de Balmes 16 (between Gran Via and Ronda Universitat) Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-412-0095 http://www.centfocs.com
CheeseMe Offers very creative dishes, mostly with cheese, served in a small and popular restaurant. Try the delicious lasagna prepared with Manchego cheese, anchovies and arugulaor go for the hot goat cheese served on fried apples with pistachio nuts. The not-so-cheesy inclined can opt for the selection of meaty antequesos. You can also have cheese with a glass of wine on the terrace. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Comerc 24 Excellent Catalan cuisine refined with Asian, Italian, Andalusian and even American touches served in a puristic, predominantly gray setting. The tapas are to die for, and the dishes dreamed up by chef Carles Abellan are as creative as can be. Try the hamburger with foie gras and truffles. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. El Gran Cafe One of the oldest restaurants in Barcelona. It features old-fashioned decor and traditional Catalan dishes, but also boasts a selection of more innovative dishes. With its warm, welcoming atmosphere and round tables, it's a great place for a night out with friends or family. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$.
Carrer d' Avinyo 9 Barcelona, Spain http://www.restaurantelgrancafe.com Carrer del Comerc 24 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-319-2102 http://www.comerc24.com Placa Jacint Reventos (in front of Carrer Argenteria 53) Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-268-1127 http://www.cheeseme.org
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Els Quatre Gats Founded in 1897, The Four Cats is one of Barcelona's most famous historic restaurants. It maintains the traditional look designed by Modernist architect Puig i Cadafalch that attracted such famous personalities as Pablo Picasso and Antoni Gaudi in their day. Indeed, Picasso hung many of his earliest paintings on the restaurant's walls and designed the first menu. We recommend the 12-euro menu for lunch, which includes a choice of two courses and dessert. Despite the tourist crowd, the atmosphere is still interesting, although the food is rather average. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Flash Flash Tortilleria Still going strong after several decades, this very 1960s-looking place specializes in tortillas (omelettes) with every conceivable filling, as well as good hamburgers and a menu with seasonal market cooking. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Jaume de Provenca Chef Jaume Bargues enjoys well-earned prestige for the wonderfully original variations on the traditional Catalan cuisine he has dreamed up. Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards.
Provenca 88 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-430-0029 http://www.jaumeprovenza.com Granada del Penedes 25 Barcelona, Spain Montsio 3 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-302-4140 http://www.4gats.com
La Provenca This restaurant features imaginative and delicious Mediterranean cooking based particularly on fresh vegetables and fish. Try the eggplant grilled with herbsvery good sorbets, too. Six private rooms can be booked for parties of four to 40. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$. MasterCard or Visa preferred.
Provenca 242 Barcelona, Spain 8008 Phone: 93-323-2367 http://www.laprovenza.com
Mam i Teca If you're looking for a light meal or just prefer to nibble the night away in a languorous setting, look no farther than this cozy tapas bar, with a handful of tables and soft jazz music. Traditional tapas are treated with loving care by the resident foodies who source top-quality Spanish ingredients such as air-cured tuna, fresh anchovies and a variety of cheeses. But the daily specials are inspired. Monday and Wednesday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. $$.
Lluna 4, El Raval Barcelona, Spain
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Meson Jesus Tucked away on a side street, this inexpensive restaurant could be just what you're looking for when you want only a simple meal with a bit of atmosphere. The peasant-style decor is reminiscent of rural Spain, with oak barrels, wagon wheels, checked tablecloths and the like. Local dishes, such as fish stew, are wonderfully cooked and accompanied by good wines. Service is friendly and efficient. It's an excellent value all around. Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner. $$. Rincon de Aragon With all the seafood places in town, you may get a craving for some good meat, and this is the place to go. Both the cooking and the decor suggest the simplicity of the mountain regions near the Aragonese town of Teruel, known throughout Spain for its delicious rustic cuisine. Simple dishes, such as the roast lamb, are cooked perfectly. Expect the best beef, pork and lamb in Barcelona. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Semproniana Located in a former printing office, this restaurant affords a welcome break from style and design with its nonmatching furniture, ceramic plates and other flea-market finds. But the food is some of the most inventive and delicious you will find in the city for such reasonable prices. Favorites include codfish moussaka, partridges with cinnamon sauce, and civet of hare with jam. The star of the dessert menu is the delirium tremens, an understandably small slice of pure chocolate bliss. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$. MasterCard and Visa only. Taktika Berri This is one of the best and most popular tapas bars in Barcelona, so reservations are highly recommended. Since the food is Basque, tapas there are called pintxos and are just delicious. Full meals are excellent, too, with an emphasis on fresh seafood. Do not expect a menuthe waiter will tell you what's available. The light, fruity Basque wines go very well with the food.
Carrer de Valencia 169 Barcelona, Spain Rossello 148 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-453-1820 http://www.semproniana.net Near the Boqueria market. Carme 28, Raval Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-302-6789 http://www.rincondearagon.es Cecs de la Boqueria 4 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-317-4698 http://mesonjesus.com
Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for lunch only. Reservations recommended. $-$$$. Most major credit cards. Tragaluz Fresh ingredients are served in endlessly imaginative combinations such as pork with figs or steamed hake with applesauce. This restaurant has won design awards, as well, and is one of Barcelona's most fashionable eating places (don't miss the restrooms by Olympic-design darling Mariscal). Daily for lunch and dinner (cocktail bar open daily 6 pm-2 am). Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Passaje de la Concepcio 5 Barcelona, Spain 8008 Phone: 93-487-0196 http://www.grupotragaluz.com/tragaluz
Cuisines
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French
Cafe de Paris A classic French restaurant with chic ambience, it enjoys a well-deserved reputation for the quality of its meat: The Cafe de Paris entrecote is a house specialty. Appetizing home-style stews, too. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$. MasterCard and Visa only.
Mestre Nicolau 16 Barcelona, Spain 8021
Italian
Le Quattro Stagioni The best Italian restaurant in town, in an uptown villa with a gardena perfect place to dine in spring and summer. A different menu is presented for each season: wild mushrooms and game in autumn, hearty ragouts in winter, fresh vegetables in spring, and cold soups, salads and carpaccios in summer. Real Italian cheeses and even a special grappa list. Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Reservations required FridaySunday. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Murivecchi Exquisite Neapolitan cuisine is served at Murivecchi. The individual pizzas are big enough to share, and the homemade desserts are fabulous. The lunch menu is particularly good and worth considering if you are visiting the Museo Picasso (about a five-minute walk) around midday. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended for dinner. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards.
Princesa 59, Born Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-218-3000 http://www.restaurantesbarcelona.com/m urivecchi Dr. Roux 37 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-280-6585 http://www.4stagioni.com
Latin American
Caleuche Caleuche specializes in Patagonian cuisine with a Mediterranean influence. An earthen oven produces large pizzas (the house specialty). Other dishes include Argentinean-style empanadas (savory pastries filled with meat, cheese and more), salads and pastas. Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards.
Sant Pau 116 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-441-9796 http://www.caleuche.es
Mediterranean
Neichel Owner Jean-Louis Neichel personally ensures a high standard of Mediterranean cuisine. Two of our favorites are the roast lamb with a black-olive and anchovy crust and the Mediterranean prawn-and-lobster salad. Afterward, choose from among 30 homemade desserts. Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Closed the entire month of August. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Beltran i Rozpide 1-5 Barcelona, Spain 8034 Phone: 93-203-8408 http://www.neichel.es
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Spanish
Amaya This big restaurant right on La Rambla serves food from the Basque region of Spain. Lots of seafood on the menu, including unusual items such as eels. Tables are set up outside AprilOctober. It can get very crowded, especially on Sunday. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards.
La Rambla 24 Barcelona, Spain 8002 Phone: 93-302-1037 http://www.restauranteamaya.com
Vegetarian
Illa de Gracia Appetizing vegetarian fare at very reasonable prices. Wine, beer, coffee and homemade cakes are available. The restaurant has an intimate atmosphere despite its Spartan decor. Daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $. Most major credit cards.
Sant Domenec 19 Barcelona, Spain 8012 Phone: 93-238-0229 http://www.illadegracia.cat
La Bascula Run as a cooperative, this cafe does not impress at first glance. However, hidden in the back is a wonderful, intimate dining area, sporting mismatched furniture and regularly filled by a young and vibrant clientele. The service is friendly, and the quality of the food is very good. Highly recommended for light lunches or afternoon teas. Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations not accepted. $. No credit cards. La Buena Tierra One of Barcelona's oldest vegetarian restaurants is still an unbeatable value. Mediterraneaninspired specialties include moussaka with quinoa, cannelloni stuffed with wild mushrooms and asparagus vol-au-vents. There's also a selection of organic, grilled meat dishes.
Encarnacio 56 Barcelona, Spain 8024 Flassaders 30 Barcelona, Spain
Tuesday-Saturday for lunch (mid-March to September only) and dinner. Reservations recommended. $. Most major credit cards.
Seafood
Botafumeiro A Barcelona dining institution that's synonymous with superb seafood. Very expensive, classy and worth every euro. It has a huge menu, and succulent oysters are served at the bar. The only drawback is that it's not by the sea but on the main street of Gracia. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Gran de Gracia 81 Barcelona, Spain 8012 Phone: 93-218-4230 http://www.botafumeiro.es
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Els Pescadors This is one of the best places in town to eat fresh fish. The old-style tavern decor, relaxed atmosphere and high-quality wine list enhance the experience. During summer months, we recommend sitting on the terrace, an oasis of calm in the bustling city. Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Escriba Xiringuito This restaurant looks right out over the beach, and staff will drag tables into the sun for you. Ronda Litoral 42 There's lots of room inside, but the outdoor tables are what's prized: Locals mill on the seafront, Barcelona, Spain 8038 aperitif in hand, while waiting for one to open up. It has delicious fish dishes. For an appetizer, don't miss the pica-pica, a selection of tapas including crispy fried-vegetable tidbits, sardines and croquettes. Be sure to have dessert; the place belongs to a famous family of chocolatiers who also operate an excellent pastry shop on La Rambla (if you go there, have the hot chocolate). Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Reservations recommended. $$$. Visa and MasterCard only. La Paradeta There are now five of these self-service seafood restaurants in Barcelona. You can't make reservations, but the seafood is the freshest you will find. Choose it fresh from the counter and wait until your number is called to collect your dish. The surroundings are cheap and cheerful. Deluxe it is not, but the food is the best and the most affordable in town. Tuesday-Thursday 8-11:30 pm, Friday 8 pm-midnight, Saturday 1-4 pm and 8 pm-midnight, Sunday 1-4 pm. $-$$. Suquet de l'Almirall One of the most interesting seafood restaurants in town, it beautifully blends tradition and innovation. Enjoy perfectly prepared paella and a host of other rice and fish dishes or try a selection of half portions of the chef's suggestions. The restaurant has a sunny terrace and enjoys the tangy sea air of Barceloneta. Extensive wine cellar. Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. MasterCard and Visa only.
Passeig Joan de Borbo 65 Barcelona, Spain 8003 Phone: 93-221-6233 http://suquetdelalmirall.com Commercial 7 Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-268-1939 http://www.laparadeta.com Placa Prim 1, Poble Nou Barcelona, Spain Phone: 93-225-2018 http://www.elspescadors.com
Security
Etiquette
Spain has continued to make steady economic progress in recent decades and is now a vital member of the EU. Business travelers will find a moderately affluent country, in step with the age of high technology but still maintaining many of its traditions. AppointmentsYou may find it valuable to have a local intermediary who can assist in establishing business appointments. Schedule meetings well in advance. As a visitor, you should be punctual. Catalonians pride themselves on their efficiency and timeliness.
Personal IntroductionsHandshakes are the typical greeting. Last names with the appropriate Spanish title are used. If your acquaintance has a professional title, you will learn it when introduced; if not, senor (male), senora (married female) and senorita (unmarried female) are appropriate. The title and the person's last name should be used until you are instructed otherwise. Note that it is typical for Spanish people to have two surnames, one from their father and one from their mother. The father's surname will be given first during the introduction, and that's the name that is used to address or speak of the person. Thus, Federico Garcia Lorca would be addressed as
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher "Senor Garcia." Invest in business cards with the information printed in English on one side and Spanish on the other.
NegotiatingBusiness is typically preceded by small talk and pleasantries. Negotiations can be a more extended process than in northern European countries. Companies tend to be hierarchical, so focus on individuals of equal rank or higher. At the same time, the opinion of everyone in the company is important. You are an outsider and must ingratiate yourself. Thus, expect many questions about your business, background and family. Intuition, as much as objective fact, is important in their impression of you, so remain warm and friendly in your demeanor. Anticipate that many of the people important to a decision may not be present at any given meeting. Business EntertainingLunch and dinner are the meals most commonly attended by business associates. Lunch is usually the more productive for deal-making, but business discussions should be saved for the very end of the meal, during coffee. Know that dinner is usually served quite late9 or 10 pm. Spaniards often fill the gap between lunch and dinner by snacking on tapas (appetizers) at cafes and taverns.
Body LanguageConversations take place at close quarters, and polite conversational touching may be practiced.
Gift GivingIn business contexts, gifts are typically given at the conclusion of successful negotiations. Gifts should be opened and appreciated immediately. Appropriate personal gifts when visiting a home include flowers or chocolate, but avoid chrysanthemums, dahlias or 13 of anything.
ConversationIf you don't speak Spanish or Catalan, try to learn at least a few phrases well. In Barcelona, Catalan is spoken on an equal footing with Spanish, and the locals are generally impressed when foreigners take the time to learn the language. Spanish culture is always a good topic, as is Spanish literature, if you are knowledgeable. Sports and travel are good topics. Be aware that, in many regards, Spain is still a country of regions: Many people will identify more strongly with their local area than with the country as a whole. Catalonians consider themselves members of an autonomous nation, even though the rest of Spain strongly opposes this viewtread lightly with the topic.
Personal Safety
In general, Barcelona is a reasonably safe city to walk around in, even late at night. The biggest danger is petty crimepickpocketing, bag snatching and assorted scams. Thieves tend to ply their trade in the busy tourist spots such as La Rambla, the Barri Gotic, El Raval, down by the port, on the metro and on the buses. A few precautions will help keep you out of trouble: Don't carry money, credit cards or documents in back pockets, breast pockets or backpacks. Leave valuables in a safe-deposit box at your hotel. Wear purses, bags and cameras slung around your neck or across your chest and keep them close to your body in crowds. Don't set them down at your feet or in adjacent seats in outdoor cafes or on trains and buseskeep your hand on them. Never leave any item of value unattended or inside a parked car. In an emergency, dial 112.
For more information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Health
Barcelona's tap water is safe to drink; however, many people prefer bottled water, which is easily available and inexpensive. Sanitation levels are high, but it's wise to exercise caution with tapas (bar snacks) that look old and tired. It's also sensible to avoid mayonnaise when the weather's hot. Spanish law prohibits smoking in all public areas. With its regulations coming into line with most of the rest of Europe, smoking is banned totally in cafes and restaurants, and only allowed in certain specified areas of hotels. Smoking outdoors is banned in children's play areas, around schools and near hospitals. Most doctors have some knowledge of English, and many speak it reasonably well. Hotels will likely arrange to find an English-speaking
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher doctor for you. In an emergency, your best bet is to go to the emergency department of any of the big public hospitals, all of which are open 24 hours a day. Two hospitals in or near the city center are Centre Perecamps, Drassanes 13-15, Raval (phone 93-441-0600), and Hospital Clinic i Provincial, Villarroel 170, Eixample. Phone 93-227-5400. If you need a prescription filled on short notice, be aware that every neighborhood has at least one pharmacy open 24 hours a day. Their addresses will be posted in the windows of other pharmacies and will be published in the newspaper under Farmacias de Guardia. For an ambulance, dial 061. For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
Disabled Advisory
Barcelona is quite attentive to making the city accessible to locals and visitors alike. Sidewalks are wide and well-maintained, and ramps or elevators have been installed wherever possible. Unfortunately, the Gothic Quarter, Born and Raval have historic buildings that cannot be fitted as easily as the more modern areas. The public transit agency offers a list of all buses and metro stops that are equipped for the disabled at http://www.tmb.cat/en_US/barcelona/bonviatge/transportpertothom.jsp. You can also request a taxi equipped for wheelchairs. Phone 93-420-8088. http://www.taxi-amic-adaptat.com/eng/index.html. Contact Oficina d'Informacio Turistica for additional information about hotels, transportation and services for the disabled. Phone 93-2853834. Other good sources of advice and information include http://www.accessiblebarcelona.com, a Web site created by an Englishman, Craig Grimes, who lives in Barcelona and uses a wheelchair (http://www.craiggrimes.com), and the Municipal Institute for People with Disabilities, Diagonal 233, Eixample. Phone 93-413-2775. http://w3.bcn.es/V47/Home/V47HomeLinkPl/0,3829,76462392_76903490_3,00.html.
Facts
Dos & Don'ts
Do be careful where you light up. Spain's antismoking law took effect in 2011. The law bans smoking in enclosed public spaces, which include bars, restaurants, hotel lobbies, casinos, clubs, office buildings, open-decked tourist buses and airports. There is also a ban on smoking in outdoor spaces around schools, hospitals and children's playgrounds. Do keep your eyes open for pickpockets. The areas around La Rambla and La Sagrada Familia are particularly dangerous. In addition to light-fingered pickpockets, there are also a number of tricks thieves use to distract and defraud you. If you are wearing a fanny pack, someone may approach you with a magazine or clipboard and practically press it into your chest, talking exitedly all the time. This is just a cover for them entering your pack and removing your valuables. Leave your valuables in the hotel safe and take only as much cash as you'll need. Don't confuse Catalan with Spanish or refer to Catalan as a dialect. They are distinct languages representing different cultures. Do dress modestly in the city. Spain is a conservative country, so skimpy tops and too-brief clothing are inappropriate for visits to churches. Catalonians normally dress well and stylishly, so save the shorts for the countryside or the beach. In any case, shorts in the city will mark you as a tourist and as a more likely target for thieves. Don't litter. You may see some people throwing trash in the street, but most people are tidy and have great respect for public areas.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: Passports are needed by citizens of Australia, the U.S. and Canada. A tourist visa is not required for a visit
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher of three months or less. Proof of onward passage and sufficient funds are needed by all. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure. Population: 5,029,000. Languages: Catalan, Spanish. Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic). Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the end of March to the end of October. Voltage Requirements: 220 volts. 50 Hz. Telephone Codes: 34, country code; 93, city code;
Money
Currency Exchange
There are ATMs in all neighborhoods of the city. La Caixa ATMs, in particular (those with the bright blue star logo), are very common and found in municipal markets and shopping malls. Most ATMs have instructions in English. Outside of normal banking hours, you gain access to ATMs by inserting your credit or cash card into a slot in the door. You can lock the door from inside. Most banks will change traveler's checks (preferring denomination in euros), but the commissions vary. Exchanging money is more streamlined at the big banks in the city center than at small local branches. Private exchange bureaus are located in the city center and along La Rambla, and most stay open until midnight or later. Although private bureaus generally don't charge commissions, they invariably give poor rates of exchange, and it's best to avoid them if you can.
Taxes
The value-added tax (abbreviated IVA in Spanish) is applied to most items and services: The percentage varies from 7% to 16%. Most prices include IVA, though hotel rates are usually quoted without the tax added on. If it is not included, the tax amount should be clearly marked on invoices and bills. If you are not a European Union resident, you can obtain a refund of the tax if you spend more than 90 euros in a single store displaying a "tax-free" sticker on the door. Ask for a tax-free checkyou'll need to fill out a refund form. You get the check stamped at Customs when leaving Spain and can cash it at a Tax-Free Shopping refund window, commonly found in the departure areas of airports. Get your refund before checking your luggage, as you may need to show the items. Be aware that you apply for the refund in the last EU country on your itinerary.
Tipping
Tipping in Spain is unusual. It is not part of the culture. Waitstaff are well-paid and do not expect tips, but nevertheless will be delighted if you leave something. The norm would be to leave small change or round up the bill. The same goes for taxi drivers.
Weather
There is really no best time to visit Barcelona, nor a worst. Thanks to its location on the Mediterranean, it enjoys a mild, pleasant climate year-round. December-February is the chilliest period, although the sun shines most of the time. Even in winter, locals sunbathe on the beaches (in "suntraps" by the seawall) and eat and drink on terraces. The hardier ones even occasionally take a dip; you may not want to follow their example, however, as the water is surprisingly cold. In January, the average temperature rarely falls below 50 F/10 C and is often considerably higher. Really cold spells are typically few and far between, although recent years have seen an increasing number of cold spells and even some snow.
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher Summers aren't necessarily hotthe average high in July and August is 78 F/25 Cbut the high humidity can make them somewhat uncomfortable. School vacation runs late June to mid-September, and those who are able to do so spend the entire summer away from the city. Most shops and businesses take their annual vacations in August, leaving the city relatively empty. Rain is infrequent, but can be heavy when it occurs. It's most common in November, March and April.
What to Wear
It won't take you long to learn that Barcelona is a style-conscious city, so it's a good idea to have some options other than jeans and T-shirts. For the heat of summer, take along the coolest clothes possible. Fashionable trousers and sleeveless tops are fine, but bathing gear is strictly for the beach. Sunscreen and a hat will be useful accessories. In autumn and spring, it can be chilly in the morning and evening, so take along a jacket and sweater. The winter tends to be relatively mild, but it is wise to take along hats, gloves, scarves and so forth, and to be prepared for very cold spells, which can appear without much warning. Business visitors should stick to plain, conservative business suits with ties for the men and the equivalent for women: dark colors in winter, lighter in summer. Above all, pack comfortable walking shoes.
Communication
Telephone
Public pay phones accept coins, phone cards issued by Telefonica (Spanish Telecom) and credit cards. The phones have clear instructions in English. You can also find pay phones in many bars and cafes, although they tend to cost more. You can buy Telefonica phone cards at post offices, tobacco shops (estancos) and newsstands. International calls are cheapest at phone centers, called locutorios, which offer discounted international connections. You will find several in the old town, especially in El Raval. You make your call in a private booth and pay in cash when you are through. Most regular Spanish phone numbers contain nine digits: The area code (93 for Barcelona and Catalonia) must be dialed for all calls, even if you are calling from within the same city or region. For international calls, first dial 00, then the country code, then the area code and number. For directory assistance, dial 118. Call 1005 for an international operator to assist with calls to Canada or the U.S.; dial 1008 for assistance with calls to Europe. Spanish cell-phone numbers begin with 6, toll-free lines with 900 and special-rate services with 902. For directory assistance within Spain, dial 1003. For international directory assistance, dial 025.
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Internet Access
Internet cafes are less common in Barcelona than they used to be because such portable accessories as smart phones are now so omnipresent. But small establishments with varying prices and connection speeds can still be found in various parts of the city, some with rates as low as one or two euros per hour. Wi-Fi is available in the city and is offered by various hotels. There are also numerous cafes and bars that offer free Wi-Fi. The Eixample area has the highest number of such cafes, though they are also found in the city center and university areas. All of them advertise with large signs, frequently in English, for free Wi-Fi, or, less commonly, for Wi-Fi gratis. Barcelona WiFi is a free Internet service provided by the city council and has a fairly comprehensive network of access points. http://www.bcn.cat/barcelonawifi. Bornet Internet Cafe An intimate spot tucked away in a tiny lane near the Picasso Museum where you can sip delicious coffee in a cozy ambience as you work. Monday-Friday 10 am-11 pm, Saturday and Sunday noon-11 pm. Carrer Barra del Ferro 3, Born. Barcelona, Spain. Phone 93-268-1507. http://bornet.wordpress.com. WORKcenter This is a chain of office-supply and support shops that also offers Internet access. It has multiple locations throughout Spain, including in Barcelona, Madrid, Seville and Valencia. http://www.workcenter.es. Barcelona, Spain. http://www.workcenter.es.
Mail & Package Services

Oficina Central de Correus i Telecomunicacions The main post office. Monday-Friday 8:30 am-9:30 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-2 pm. PZ. Antonio Lopez, S/N SotsTinent Navarro 34. Barcelona, Spain. Phone 93-486-8050. http://www.correos.es/dinamic/plantillas/home1.asp.
Newspapers & Magazines

Barcelona Metropolitan (http://www.barcelona-metropolitan.com) is the city's English-language magazine and is available either online or for free at many English bars and bookshops, cinemas where original-version English-speaking films are shown, Internet cafes and so on. It offers a comprehensive rundown of entertainment options in the city. The Broadsheet (Madrid) and The Barcelona Reporter (http://www.barcelonareporter.com) are other free, online English-language publications. Barcelona Business is an English-language business newspaper (printed on distinctive pink paper) available at English bookshops and some newsstands. Barcelona Metropolis Mediterrania (http://www.barcelonametropolis.cat/en/page.asp?id=21&ui=229) is an upmarket culture and art publication produced by City Hall with an English translation of all articles at the back. Catalonia Today (http://www.cataloniatoday.cat) is a weekly paper published in English in collaboration with El Punt, and El Pais produces an Englishlanguage insert for Spain for the International Herald Tribune. Spanish-language newspapers include El Pais and La Vanguardia. El Periodico and El Punt are the most widely distributed dailies. Guia del Ocio is a thorough entertainment guide in Spanish. http://www.guiadelociobcn.es. Barcelona is very cosmopolitan, and newspapers and magazines from all over the world can be bought at a large number of places, including all the newsstands on La Rambla, Placa Catalunya and Passeig de Gracia, at both main branches of El Corte Ingles department store and at the FNAC stores, as well as some newsstands on the Diagonal and elsewhere.
Transportation
The best way to get around in Barcelona is on foot (a centrally located hotel will put you within walking distance of many of the best attractions) and by public transport, especially the efficient subway system, the metro. There are a number of multiride tickets and travel passes available for use on the six metro lines, the city railway network and a huge fleet of buses. The city's old tram network has also been resurrected, renovated and streamlined; modern, speedy, and almost-noiseless trams now coast up and down Avenida Diagonal and northeast along the coast to the former industrial suburb of Sant Adria de Besos on a regular basis.
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Another alternative for getting around the city center are the ecological taxis that resemble a cross between rickshaws and bicycles, though they're not the best choice if you happen to be in a hurry or want to go farther afield. The hugely popular Bus Turistic is a great way to visit the main sights of Barcelona. For general information on all city transportation services, visit http://www.tmb.cat/en_US/home.jsp.
Air
Barcelona Airport (BCN), also known as El Prat, is 7 mi/12 km south of the city, near the town of El Prat del Llobregat. The airport has one of the fastest-growing traffic flows in Europe, and it is a hub for Mediterranean destinations. In spite of its rapid growth, the airport has been doing a good job of maintaining efficiency and comfort. The airport consists of two terminals, T1 and T2. The new T1, covering 133 acres/54 hectares, is completed and fully operational; estimates are that it will handle up to 30 million passengers a year. Services at the facility include a spa, fitness center, hair salon and four VIP lounges, as well as more than 50 shops and 30 bars and restaurants. Business travelers have access to a large business center, and there is Wi-Fi connectivity throughout the terminal. The granite structure was designed with sustainable practices, including the installation of hundreds of solar panels. Both terminals have numerous shops, restaurants, bars and cafes on-site, as well as banks, ATMs, a Wi-Fi network and airline-related services. Phone 902-404-704 for information. http://www.barcelona-airport.com. Girona Airport (GRO; http://www.barcelona-girona-airport.com) is also worth considering, as it has regular flights between many major European cities and is well connected to Barcelona's Estacio del Nord in the city center (Metro stop: Arc de Triomf) via a 50-minute bus service. Bus tickets cost 12 euros one way and 21 euros round-trip. Phone 902-260-606 for information. http://www.barcelonanord.com. Connecting Transportation Best way: If you are headed for the city center, the Aerobus is inexpensive (5.30 euros one way; 9.15 euros round-trip) and almost as fast as a taxi (about 30 minutes, depending on traffic). It can also accommodate all the luggage you have on the plane. You can purchase tickets from automatic machines with a credit card, or from the staff at bus stops by card or cash. However, you can only use cash to buy a ticket from the driver. It stops at Placa Espanya, Comte Urgell/Gran Via and Placa Universitat and ends at Placa Catalunya, at the top of La Rambla. There is a bus stop outside each terminal, with buses leaving every 10 minutes 5:30 am-12:30 am. Phone 902-100-104. http://www.aerobusbcn.com/index.php/en.html?gclid=CJfYod7Thq0CFegmtAodo2Itmg. Other options: Taxis are probably the most expensive option, but they will take you right to your destination. Be prepared to wait in line for a few minutes at the rank outside your terminal. Taxis are metered. For general information on using taxis and a list of current fares, see http://www.taxibarcelona.cat/tabid/2099/Default.aspx. The Renfe train is the least expensive way into town. At the airport, it operates from both terminals. Just follow the signs. Train service between Barcelona and the airport is via line C2 Norte (Macanet-Sant Celoni-Airport). Phone 902-240-202. http://www.renfe.es/cercanias/barcelona/index.html. Plans are also under way for line 9 of the metro to have a stop at the airport terminals. When fully completed in 2014, it will be one of the longest metro lines in Europe. Major rental car agencies have branches at the airport, and terminal T1 has parking for more than 11,000 cars.
Bus
Barcelona is served by a large number of bus companies that operate regular lines to other cities and towns in Spain and to the rest of Europe. Most long-distance buses, both national and international, arrive and depart from one of two stations. Estacio d'Autobusos is at Barcelona-Nord, Ali Bei 80 (next to Arc de Triomf metro station). Estacio d'Autobusos Barcelona-Sants is next to Barcelona-Sants railway and metro station. Some buses to and from other towns in Catalonia stop elsewhere in the city.
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Car
Because it has a good public-transportation system, and because its automobile congestion is legendary, the first rule about driving in Barcelona is to avoid it if at all possible. If you can't avoid it, carefully study a good map well in advance of your arrival and plan the route to your destination within the city. Driving is on the right side of the road, although Barcelona has a rather extensive and complex grid of one-way streets. Use a detailed city map to locate a parking garage (indicated with a P) near your destinationthough these are often expensive (up to 20 euros per day). It's always difficultif not impossibleto find a space on the street. Remove all valuables from the car, no matter where you have it parked. Don't be tempted to park in a loading zone or other restricted area, as cars will be towed and the cost is very expensive.
Ferry
Acciona Trasmediterranea Runs regular passenger and car ferries between the Balearic Islands and Barcelona. Boats arrive and depart from the Estacio Maritima at the Moll de Sant Bertran wharf. Barcelona, Spain. Phone 902-454-645 for information and schedules. http://www.trasmediterranea.es. Grandi Navi Veloci Operates a regular ferry service from Barcelona to Genoa, Italy, and Tangiers, Morocco. The boats dock at the Moll de Sant Bertran wharf in Port Vell. Barcelona, Spain. Phone 39-010-209-4591. http://www1.gnv.it.
Public Transportation
Transports Metropolitans de Barcelona (TMB) runs both the bus and subway systems, and there are also FGC trains that operate in the greater Barcelona area. There is an integrated fare system, which allows you to use one travel card on several modes of transport, including the metro; urban, metropolitan and interurban buses; the tram system; FGC trains; and Rodalies de Catalunya trains. This system allows you to use four different types of transport and make up to three changes within the zones for which your travel card is valid. There are six travel zones. The various options are detailed on the TMB website. http://www.tmb.cat/en/bitllets-i-tarifes. It will almost certainly be worth your while to buy a Barcelona Card. It covers travel on the metro, TMB buses and FGC trains. In addition, it grants you discounts at museums, shops, restaurants and on special buses such as the TombBus, Aerobus and Barcelona Bus Turistic. Cards are good from one to five days and are on sale at the tourist information offices at Placa Catalunya, Placa Sant Jaume, Sants railway station, Cortes Ingles stores, at other tourist attractions or online. http://www.barcelona.com/barcelona_city_tours/standard_bus_tours/barcelona_card. Free maps of the public transportation system are available at the customer service centers at several locations, including the Sants train station and metro stations at Universitat, Diagonal and Sagrada Familia. http://www.tmb.cat/en/home. FGC Trains This railway network is run by the Catalan government and offers service in the city and to the surrounding region. You can take FGC trains from Placa Catalunya to the uptown residential district of Sarria and to the foot of Tibidabo mountain. Stations are marked by bright blue signs with FGC in white letters. Automated ticket machines have instructions in (slightly weird) English. Barcelona, Spain. Phone 93-2051515. http://www.fgc.es. TMB Buses TMB operates a fleet of more than 800 buses, many of which are adapted for wheelchair access. Bus stops, some of which have shelters with maps, have a black bus icon on a white background. The TMB system also includes several trams, funicular trains and a cable car. Regular buses generally operate 6:30 am-10 pm, although some lines operate later. . Barcelona, Spain. Phone 902-075-027. http://www.tmb.cat/en/home.
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TMB Metro There are seven subway lines in Barcelona that are clearly color-coded on maps and signs. To locate a metro stop, look for signs with the red M in a white oval shape on a red background. Fare cards can be purchased from ticket windows or vending machines inside the stations. The metro operates Monday-Thursday, Sunday and holidays 5 am-midnight, Friday and Saturday 5 am-2 am. The fare for a oneway journey within zone one is 1.40 euros. Barcelona, Spain.
Ship
Barcelona is one of the Mediterranean's leading cruise ports and has several passenger terminals. The terminals are extremely close to the city center in the old port, watched over by the promontory of Montjuic.
Taxi
Taxis are plentiful and can usually be hailed on the street fairly quickly. A bright green light on the top and a sign in the windshield saying Llibre/Lliure (Free) indicate that the taxi is available. There are taxi ranks at metro, bus and train stations, in main squares and many other locations as well. You can also call for a pickup, but most companies will start the meter at the time they receive the call, not from the time you get in the cab. Special services, including seven-seat vehicles and English-speaking drivers, can be hired from some of the telephone-taxi firms. The cabs are metered, and the official rates and supplements are shown in English on a sticker inside the rear window. A supplement is charged for each item of baggage handled by the driver. Try to be sure you have small bills: Drivers are not required to carry large amounts of change, and very few accept credit cards. When giving the driver your destination, you'll have better luck stating the nearest intersection rather than the street number.
Train
Barcelona has two principal stations for long-distance trains. Barcelona-Sants on Placa Paisos Catalans is the busier of the two. It handles many of the trains bound for other destinations in Spain as well as some international routes. Estacio de Franca at Avinguda Marques d'Argentera 6 handles many of the international trains to and from France. RENFE, the Spanish national railway, operates most long-haul trains in Spain, whether bound for Spanish cities or international destinations. Its well-designed Web site provides schedules and fares in English. Phone 90-224-0202. http://www.renfe.es/ingles. FGC, the Catalan railway organization, operates trains throughout the region as well as local city lines. Two commuter lines run to nearby towns and villages, one from Placa Catalunya and one from Placa Espanya. http://www.fgc.es.
For More Information

Additional Reading
The Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafon (Penguin Books). This Spanish best-seller by a Barcelona writer became a huge hit when it was published in English. Set in Barcelona after the Civil War, it is the beautifully written tale of a young boy who discovers a dark secret when he searches for the books of an obscure author. Gaudi: A Biography by Gijs van Hensbergen (Harper Collins). A well-crafted biography of Barcelona's most famous architect, which puts his work into perspective. Barca: A People's Passion by Jimmy Burns (Bloomsbury). The story of Barcelona's famous football (soccer) club also gives insight into the role of sport in the Catalan national identity. Barcelona by Robert Hughes (Knopf). Excellent historical-cultural treatise on the Catalan capital. Homage to Barcelona by Coim Toibin (Picador). A personal exploration of the city by one of its greatest and most knowledgeable fans.
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Tourist Offices
Centre d'Informacio de la Virreina Provides information from City Hall's Culture Department on exhibitions, theater and more. Sells tickets for the Grec summer festival and other events. There's also a bookshop where you can pick up a free copy of Barcelona Metropolitan magazine. City Hall also operates Informacio 010, an all-purpose information hotline for visitors. Operators speak English. Office open daily 10 am-8 pm. Las Rambla 99. Barcelona, Spain 8002. Phone 93-316-1000 or 010. http://virreinacentredelaimatge.bcn.cat. Oficina d'Informacio Turistica The city's main tourism office (there are also branch offices at the airport, in City Hall at Placa Sant Jaume, at Sants train station and at popular sights such as Sagrada Familia). In addition to providing information on the city, the main office exchanges currency, makes hotel reservations, and sells theater tickets, transport tickets and phone cards. You can also purchase a Barcelona Card, which provides discounts on cultural sites and restaurants, as well as offers free rides on public transport. The BCN Shop has souvenirs and books. Daily 9 am-9 pm, closed Christmas and New Year's days. Rambla de Catalunya 123. Barcelona, Spain 8002. Phone 93-285-3834. http://www.barcelonaturisme.com. Palau Robert The Catalonian Government's tourist office is housed in a restored mansion, close to La Pedrera. It offers essential Barcelona information and maps, plus a vast wealth of material on the rest of Catalonia. The Palau Robert also stages regular exhibitions and has a shady garden. Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 10 am-2:30 pm. Passeig de Gracia 107. Barcelona, Spain 8008. Phone 93-238-8091. http://www.gencat.net/probert.
Events
Calendar
Barcelona is one of Spain's most sophisticated and culturally exciting cities, and its dynamic calendar reflects this. Religious and cultural festivals occur throughout the year, and the city's music, dance and opera performances offer a range of artistic choices. Sports fans will enjoy Barcelona's soccer and basketball teams, although tickets to see the famous Barcelona FC soccer club are difficult to get. For detailed information about upcoming events in Barcelona, contact Turisme de Barcelona. Phone 93-368-9700. http://www.barcelonaturisme.com. The Culture Institute of Barcelona (http://www.bcn.es/icub) provides information on major festivals. A comprehensive list of festivals can also be found on the Barcelona Life Web site. http://www.barcelona-life.com/barcelona/festivals. If you're calling the Barcelona phone numbers listed here from outside Spain, you must first dial your own country's international access code, then Spain's country code, 34. The city code of 93, included with the numbers listed here, must be dialed even if you're calling from within Barcelona. Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.
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May 2012
Early MayConcert Orquestra Simfonica de Barcelona i Nacional de Catalunya presents its season of classical music performances. L'Auditori, Lepant 150. For information and tickets, call 93-247-9300. http://www.obc.cat. Concludes early May Early MayFeria de Abril The annual April Fair re-creates the famous Seville fair, started by Andalusian immigrants in the 1970s, and celebrates the culture of southern Spain with genuine flamenco music, song, dance, food and wine. Diagonal-Mar, Sant Adria del Besos. http://www.fecac.com. Concludes early May Early MayBarcelona Guitar Festival Barcelona celebrates classical guitar music with weekly master performances over four months. Venues range from large concert halls to guitar clubs. For information, call 93-481-7040. http://www.theproject.es. Concludes early May Early-Mid MayFC Barcelona Basketball FC Barcelona plays home games at Palau Blaugrana, Avenida Aristides Maillol. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Concludes mid May 1 MayMay Day Public holiday. Late MayCiutat Vella Flamenco Festival Spain's lively traditional dance form is brought to life in a series of performances, shows, lectures, debates, workshops, exhibitions and a market. Centre de Cultura Contemporania de Barcelona, Montalegre 5. For information, call 93-306-4100. http://www.cccb.org. Throughout MaySoccer Barcelona's top soccer team, FC Barcelona, plays home matches at Nou Camp Stadium, Avinguda Aristides Maillol. Tickets are hard to come by, but a small number are released at the stadium box office two days before each home game. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Season continues through early June Throughout MayPerformance Gran Teatre del Liceu hosts regular opera, dance, concert and individual performances by both resident and international touring companies. La Rambla 51-59. For information and tickets, call 93-485-9900. http://www.liceubarcelona.com. Continues through late July
June 2012
Early JuneSoccer Barcelona's top soccer team, FC Barcelona, plays home matches at Nou Camp Stadium, Avinguda Aristides Maillol. Tickets are hard to come by, but a small number are released at the stadium box office two days before each home game. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Season concludes early June Mid-Late JuneFestival del Grec Barcelona's largest annual performing-arts festival (also known as the Barcelona Summer Festival) includes five weeks of concerts and performances by innovative contemporary dance, music and theater companies from around the world. Teatre Grec and other venues throughout the city. http://grec.bcn.cat. Continues through late July 14-16 JunSonar This festival of advanced music and multimedia art features the latest developments in those fields presented by national and international artists. The three-day interactive festival features more than 300 activities, including performances by bands and DJs, film screenings, dancing, exhibitions, conferences and discussions. Centre de Cultura Contemporania de Barcelona, Montalegre 5 and other venues. http://www.sonar.es. 23, 24 JunSt. John's Eve Bonfires and fireworks mark this saint's day. Festivities begin at sundown on the 23rd and continue through dawn on the 24th. 24 JunFeast of St. John the Baptist Public holiday. Throughout JunePerformance Gran Teatre del Liceu hosts regular opera, dance, concert and individual performances by both resident and international touring companies. La Rambla 51-59. For information and tickets, call 93-485-9900. http://www.liceubarcelona.com. Continues through late July
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July 2012
Throughout JulyPerformance Gran Teatre del Liceu hosts regular opera, dance, concert and individual performances by both resident and international touring companies. La Rambla 51-59. For information and tickets, call 93-485-9900. http://www.liceubarcelona.com. Concludes late July Throughout JulyFestival del Grec Barcelona's largest annual performing-arts festival (also known as the Barcelona Summer Festival) includes five weeks of concerts and performances by innovative contemporary dance, music and theater companies from around the world. Teatre Grec and other venues throughout the city. http://grec.bcn.cat. Concludes late July
September 2012
Early-Late SeptemberPerformance Gran Teatre del Liceu hosts regular opera, dance, concert and individual performances by both resident and international touring companies. La Rambla 51-59. For information and tickets, call 93-485-9900. http://www.liceubarcelona.com. Continues through late July 2013 Mid-Late SeptemberSoccer Barcelona's top soccer team, FC Barcelona, plays home matches at Nou Camp Stadium, Avinguda Aristides Maillol. Tickets are hard to come by, but a small number are released at the stadium box office two days before each home game. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Season continues through early June 2013 Mid-Late SeptemberFestivities of the Merce The biggest annual festival on Barcelona's calendar draws nearly 2 million visitors to more than 750 activities held over five days. Major events include spectacular firework shows, traditional dancing and music, sports activities and competitions, as well as arts and music festivals. This festival is dedicated to Barcelona's patron saint. Venues across the city include museums, theaters, parks, neighborhoods and more. For information, call 906-301-282 or 933-161-160. http://www.bcn.cat/merce. 11 SepLa Diada de Catalunya Catalonia National Day. Public holiday. Late SeptemberConcert Orquestra Simfonica de Barcelona i Nacional de Catalunya presents its season of classical music performances. L'Auditori, Lepant 150. For information and tickets, call 93-247-9300. http://www.obc.cat. Continues through early May 2013
October 2012
Early-Late OctoberFC Barcelona Basketball FC Barcelona plays home games at Palau Blaugrana, Avenida Aristides Maillol. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Continues through mid May 2013 Throughout OctoberPerformance Gran Teatre del Liceu hosts regular opera, dance, concert and individual performances by both resident and international touring companies. La Rambla 51-59. For information and tickets, call 93-485-9900. http://www.liceubarcelona.com. Continues through late July 2013 Throughout OctoberConcert Orquestra Simfonica de Barcelona i Nacional de Catalunya presents its season of classical music performances. L'Auditori, Lepant 150. For information and tickets, call 93-247-9300. http://www.obc.cat. Continues through early May 2013 Throughout OctoberSoccer Barcelona's top soccer team, FC Barcelona, plays home matches at Nou Camp Stadium, Avinguda Aristides Maillol. Tickets are hard to come by, but a small number are released at the stadium box office two days before each home game. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Season continues through early June 2013
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November 2012
Mid NovemberFestival de Cinema Independent de BarcelonaL'Alternativa Screens at least 70 shorts, animated films, features and documentaries from around the world. Centre de Cultura Contemporania de Barcelona, Montalegre 5, and other venues. For information, call 93-310-3888. http://alternativa.cccb.org. 1 NovAll Saints' Day Public holiday. Barcelonans remember the dead with visits to relatives' graves and small parties at which sweet potatoes, chestnuts and pastries are served. Throughout NovemberFC Barcelona Basketball FC Barcelona plays home games at Palau Blaugrana, Avenida Aristides Maillol. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Continues through mid May 2013 Throughout NovemberConcert Orquestra Simfonica de Barcelona i Nacional de Catalunya presents its season of classical music performances. L'Auditori, Lepant 150. For information and tickets, call 93-247-9300. http://www.obc.cat. Continues through early May 2013 Throughout NovemberPerformance Gran Teatre del Liceu hosts regular opera, dance, concert and individual performances by both resident and international touring companies. La Rambla 51-59. For information and tickets, call 93-485-9900. http://www.liceubarcelona.com. Continues through late July 2013 Throughout NovemberSoccer Barcelona's top soccer team, FC Barcelona, plays home matches at Nou Camp Stadium, Avinguda Aristides Maillol. Tickets are hard to come by, but a small number are released at the stadium box office two days before each home game. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Season continues through early June 2013
December 2012
Early-Late DecemberSanta Lucia Christmas Market The market opens for two weeks before Christmas in front of the cathedral. Along with the usual Christmas ornaments, caga tio and caganerwhich are part of two unique Christmas traditionsare also available to purchase. 6 DecDia de la Constitucion Public holiday. 8 DecImmaculate Conception Public holiday. 25 DecChristmas Day Public holiday. 26 DecBoxing Day Public holiday. Throughout DecemberPerformance Gran Teatre del Liceu hosts regular opera, dance, concert and individual performances by both resident and international touring companies. La Rambla 51-59. For information and tickets, call 93-485-9900. http://www.liceubarcelona.com. Continues through late July 2013 Throughout DecemberConcert Orquestra Simfonica de Barcelona i Nacional de Catalunya presents its season of classical music performances. L'Auditori, Lepant 150. For information and tickets, call 93-247-9300. http://www.obc.cat. Continues through early May 2013 Throughout DecemberFC Barcelona Basketball FC Barcelona plays home games at Palau Blaugrana, Avenida Aristides Maillol. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Continues through mid May 2013 Throughout DecemberSoccer Barcelona's top soccer team, FC Barcelona, plays home matches at Nou Camp Stadium, Avinguda Aristides Maillol. Tickets are hard to come by, but a small number are released at the stadium box office two days before each home game. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Season continues through early June 2013
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January 2013
1 JanNew Year's Day Public holiday. 5 JanCavalcada de Reis The fantastically colorful Three Kings Parade is worth watching even without kids. Traditionally, the three wise men, or kings, bring presents on the eve of Epiphany: children leave their shoes on the balcony and the wise men fill them with gifts. The kings arrive from the Orient by boat and are welcomed on the quayside by the mayor. They parade around the city with their retinues and toss candy into the crowd. The parade begins at Moll de la Fusta and winds throughout the city. Each year the route changes and is announced in local papers. http://www.bcn.cat/nadal. 6 JanEpiphany Public holiday. Throughout JanuaryPerformance Gran Teatre del Liceu hosts regular opera, dance, concert and individual performances by both resident and international touring companies. La Rambla 51-59. For information and tickets, call 93-485-9900. http://www.liceubarcelona.com. Continues through late July Throughout JanuaryConcert Orquestra Simfonica de Barcelona i Nacional de Catalunya presents its season of classical music performances. L'Auditori, Lepant 150. For information and tickets, call 93-247-9300. http://www.obc.cat. Continues through early May Throughout JanuaryFC Barcelona Basketball FC Barcelona plays home games at Palau Blaugrana, Avenida Aristides Maillol. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Continues through mid May Throughout JanuarySoccer Barcelona's top soccer team, FC Barcelona, plays home matches at Nou Camp Stadium, Avinguda Aristides Maillol. Tickets are hard to come by, but a small number are released at the stadium box office two days before each home game. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Season continues through early June
February 2013
Throughout FebruaryPerformance Gran Teatre del Liceu hosts regular opera, dance, concert and individual performances by both resident and international touring companies. La Rambla 51-59. For information and tickets, call 93-485-9900. http://www.liceubarcelona.com. Continues through late July Throughout FebruaryConcert Orquestra Simfonica de Barcelona i Nacional de Catalunya presents its season of classical music performances. L'Auditori, Lepant 150. For information and tickets, call 93-247-9300. http://www.obc.cat. Continues through early May Throughout FebruaryFC Barcelona Basketball FC Barcelona plays home games at Palau Blaugrana, Avenida Aristides Maillol. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Continues through mid May Throughout FebruarySoccer Barcelona's top soccer team, FC Barcelona, plays home matches at Nou Camp Stadium, Avinguda Aristides Maillol. Tickets are hard to come by, but a small number are released at the stadium box office two days before each home game. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Season continues through early June
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March 2013
24-31 MarSemana Santa Barcelona's Holy Week celebrations are relatively quiet compared to those in other Spanish cities. Apart from attending small religious processions, Barcelonans try to take some vacation time during this week. Throughout MarchPerformance Gran Teatre del Liceu hosts regular opera, dance, concert and individual performances by both resident and international touring companies. La Rambla 51-59. For information and tickets, call 93-485-9900. http://www.liceubarcelona.com. Continues through late July Throughout MarchConcert Orquestra Simfonica de Barcelona i Nacional de Catalunya presents its season of classical music performances. L'Auditori, Lepant 150. For information and tickets, call 93-247-9300. http://www.obc.cat. Continues through early May Throughout MarchFC Barcelona Basketball FC Barcelona plays home games at Palau Blaugrana, Avenida Aristides Maillol. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Continues through mid May Throughout MarchSoccer Barcelona's top soccer team, FC Barcelona, plays home matches at Nou Camp Stadium, Avinguda Aristides Maillol. Tickets are hard to come by, but a small number are released at the stadium box office two days before each home game. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Season continues through early June
April 2013
23 AprDia de Sant Jordi/Dia del Libre A standout day for Catalans that blends the fun, romance, culture and hard-headed business sense that are typical of Barcelonans. Sant Jordi (St. George) is the patron saint of Catalonia, and his feast day, which is also the anniversary of Cervantes' death, is celebrated by exchanging gifts of books and roses. The day, however, is not a public holiday, so the festivities blend in with daily life. Booksellers set up stalls in the streets (a 10% discount is given on all books), complete with buckets of red roses. Book launches and author signings are scheduled, and at night the usual partying takes placedances, discos and fireworks. Throughout AprilFC Barcelona Basketball FC Barcelona plays home games at Palau Blaugrana, Avenida Aristides Maillol. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Continues through mid May Throughout AprilSoccer Barcelona's top soccer team, FC Barcelona, plays home matches at Nou Camp Stadium, Avinguda Aristides Maillol. Tickets are hard to come by, but a small number are released at the stadium box office two days before each home game. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. Season continues through early June Throughout AprilPerformance Gran Teatre del Liceu hosts regular opera, dance, concert and individual performances by both resident and international touring companies. La Rambla 51-59. For information and tickets, call 93-485-9900. http://www.liceubarcelona.com. Continues through late July Throughout AprilConcert Orquestra Simfonica de Barcelona i Nacional de Catalunya presents its season of classical music performances. L'Auditori, Lepant 150. For information and tickets, call 93-247-9300. http://www.obc.cat. Continues through early May
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Ibiza
Overview
Introduction
The Balearic Island of Ibiza (pronounced ee-BEE-tha) is most strongly associated, these days, with the club and drug culture of the hordes of young visitors who descend there each summer. The main club scene, including the huge, all-night spots that often have outdoor laser displays, are concentrated in the town of San Antonio and its surroundings. If that's your bag, you'll be in heaven. If not, you need not be entirely put offit is possible to visit and go home with memories of a beautiful Mediterranean island with fragrant groves of pine trees, beautiful old whitewashed towns, and fabulous coves and beaches. We recommend a visit out of season, if you want to avoid the worst of the rave crowds. The island also draws a large number of gay visitors. The nearby island of Formentera has salt marshes, orchards, farmers and fishermen. Reached by ferry from the island of Ibiza, Formentera is very small and quiet, with no high-rise tourist developments marring the landscape. The inhabitants seem to prefer a slower pace and want to keep it that way. Ibiza is 290 mi/470 km southeast of Madrid. View of harbor
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Madrid
Overview
Introduction
Madrid, Spain, strikes a balance between constant, almost chaotic motion and uncompromising leisure. Madrilenos, as Madrid's residents are called, seem always to be on the go, except when they're taking long breaks to eat, drink and enjoy life. The competing urges to move or sit for hours are cleverly reconciled in the Madrid institution known as ir de tapas, which entails leisurely hopping from one tapas bar to the next. As a visitor to Madrid, you'll invariably be drawn into the city's stream of movement as you rush to see one more art collection, taste Castilian, Basque or Galician dishes at neighborhood restaurants, or buy tickets for an evening performance. But take a cue from Madrilenos and incorporate some quiet time into your hectic schedule: People-watch at a terrace cafe, study the mystical quality in El Greco's paintings, savor the subtle hint of saffron in a dish, and appreciate the mournful beauty of flamenco. Take a deep breath, then move on to the next stop.
Columns and Statues in Madrid, Spain
Highlights
SightsThe central and symbolic Puerta del Sol (Gate of the Sun); the lovely Plaza Mayor; Palacio Real de El Pardo and the nearby statue-lined Plaza de Oriente; the monumental arch that is Puerta de Alcala; the 18th-century fountains along Paseo del Prado. MuseumsThe Goya, Velazquez, Bosch and El Greco paintings at the Museo Nacional del Prado; the works of Picasso, Dali, Gris and Miro at the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia; the medieval, baroque, and 19th- and 20th-century masterworks at the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. Memorable MealsTapas at bars in El Centro, particularly any of those near Cava Baja and around Plaza de Santa Ana; roast suckling pig at Sobrino de Botin; Basque cuisine at Zalacain; authentic cocido madrileno at Lhardy; Valencian paella at Casa de Valencia; seafood at Restaurante Rafa. Late NightVirtually anywhere around Plaza de Santa Ana, along Calle Huertas or in the neighborhoods of Lavapies, Malasana and Chueca; a flamenco show at Casa Patas or Cafe de Chinitas; mingling with the beautiful people at Teatro Joy Eslava or Moma 56. WalksOld Madrid, including the Barrio de las Letras; Retiro Park; from Plaza de Espana up Gran Via; the tree-lined Paseo del Prado; the luxuriant Real Jardin Botanico; the charming Parque del Oeste; the walkways beside the River Manzanares. Especially for KidsAmusement-park thrills at Parque de Atracciones; weekend entertainment and recreation at Retiro Park; interactive science exhibits at Museo de la Ciencia: CosmoCaixa; the plants and wildlife at Faunia; the colorful sets at Warner Bros. Park.
Geography
Madrid sits roughly in the middle of the Iberian Peninsula and occupies a plateau (2,165 ft/660 m above sea level) that makes it the highest capital in Europe. Though the city covers a large area, travelers will be glad to know that most attractions lie in the central part of the city, known as El Centro. Roughly speaking, this area is bordered by Retiro Park on the east, Palacio Real on the west, Gran Via on the north, and Rondas de Atocha and de Toledo on the south. El Centro is less than 1 mi/1.6 km wide, which makes it relatively easy to rely on your feet for transportation. The epicenter of this area, and of the city as a whole, is the Puerta del Sol (Gateway to the Sun). Immediately west and south of Puerta del Sol is Old Madrid, also known as the Austrias, a scenic part of the city dating from the 16th century, where you'll find narrow, twisting streets and Plaza Mayor. The city's prize museumsthe Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza and Reina Sofiaare in the eastern part of El Centro, near Retiro Park. The castizo (traditional) 19th-century neighborhoods of Malasana and Chueca are just north of Gran Via. The large park space
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called la Casa de Campo is just west of El Centro. Modern Madrid surrounds the central city and is most evident to visitors along the boulevard of Paseo de la Castellana, which stretches from the center of town to the financial district of Nuevos Ministerios, then on past Plaza Castilla with its gravity defying KIO buildings and Cuatro Torres Business Area to the northern train station of Chamartin. One of the best strategies for locating a point of interest in Madrid is to know the name of the nearest metro station. That information is included with each address. Some businesses are located on unnumbered streets and labeled "s/n," or sin numero (without number). Those addresses are described using the closest intersection.
History
The first town of any size in the area now occupied by Madrid was an Arab enclave named Mayrit, or Magerit, established in the 800s when Muslims ruled most of the Iberian Peninsula. The city wasn't considered important until the 1400s, when it was occupied on several occasions by the kings of Castile. In 1561, Philip II moved his court to Madrid, and the small city became the kingdom's capital. Madrid flourished under the Hapsburg kings and acquired great importance during the 1600s, a period known as the Golden Age. Many fantastically ornate baroque churches and buildings were constructed, and there was a resurgence in the arts as evidenced in the works of Cervantes, Quevedo, Lope de Vega and others. Madrid's growth continued into the next century, when the city's elegance was enhanced by the addition of libraries, museums and gardens. By the early 1900s, Spain was no longer considered an imperial power, and the country was politically divided. Events reached a head in 1936, when the bitter Spanish Civil War commenced. For most of the war, Madrid was a city under siege, as the Republican forces held off Gen. Francisco Franco's nationalist army. The city finally surrendered to Franco in 1939, and he became the de facto dictator of Spain. Franco ruled from Madrid until his death in 1975. For the 30 years after the civil war, Madrid began to expand at an impressive rate, and today it keeps sprawling outward. Many of the outlying areas are unattractive, with lots of high-rise apartment buildings. The central city, on the other hand, retains an older flavor churches and monuments reflect the plundered glories of the nation's past. In recent years, Madrid has modernized and improved its infrastructure by enlarging Barajas Airport, extending the metro system, laying out extensive riverside gardens and promenades, and creating an improved, pedestrian-friendly traffic system that has made the city cleaner and greener than ever. The 11 March 2004 al-Qaida bombings of suburban train lines in and near Atocha station were followed three days later by general elections in which the Spanish Socialist Worker's Party (PSOE), led by Jose Rodriguez Zapatero, unexpectedly won and ended the eightyear government of the conservative Popular Party (PP) under Jose Maria Aznar. The PSOE was re-elected by a narrower margin in 2008 and, though waning further in popularity because of the economic climate, looks set to continue at least until 2012. In 2005, Madrid's mayor Alberto Ruiz-Gallardon launched a seven-year program aimed at transforming the capital into a world-class cosmopolitan destination, with more green zones, wider roads, improved metro and rail transport, and the construction of additional suburbs such as Sanchinarro. Work continues, and regular visitors to Madrid will notice a considerable improvement in the city's overall appearance. Since the expansion of Barajas Airport, which includes Terminal 4, a stunning avant-garde building, Madrid now ranks among the top three cities in Europe in terms of international traffic. Between 2006 and 2008, four skyscrapers (rascacielos) were built in the Cuatro Torres Business Area next to the Paseo de la Castellana, the highest being the Torre Caja Madrid at 820 ft/250 m, which is now the tallest building in Spain. Also impressivethough smalleris the Caixa Forum museum with its hanging garden, located toward the southern end of the Paseo del Prado between the El Prado and Reina Sofia museums. The Madrid Rio development meanwhile is ambitiously transforming several miles/kilometers of the traditionally neglected River Manzanares' banks into an ecoconscious zone of tree-lined promenades and flowerfilled gardens. There's even a small "beach" of imported sand together with unusual pedestrian and cyclist bridges. Also worth mention is the transformation of the old and unused slaughterhouse into a designers' museum and contemporary arts center. After failed bids for both the 2012 and 2016 Olympic Games, Madrid isever optimisticallylooking ahead to 2020 for a third chance.
Potpourri
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On 13 June, young girls congregate in the chapel Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida to throw 13 pins into the baptistery. Then they put a hand in, and the number of needles that stick to their hand is supposedly the number of suitors they will have in the next year. Botellones are spontaneous street parties (or collective noisy drinking binges, depending on whom you ask) that are popular with young people and often get out of hand. In 2002, the regional government of Madrid banned consuming alcohol in the streets. After an initial period of compliance, the partiesthough still officially illegalhave sporadically returned to some of the smaller plazas (such as Dos de Mayo in Malasana) and their adjacent streets. They are almost as rowdy as before. The lethal concoction in the big bottles is usually calimocho, a mixture of red wine and cola. Lope de Vega, a famous Madrileno writer of the Spanish "Golden Age," is said to have written no fewer than 1,500 dramas (500 have survived). He also found time to compose 3,000 sonnets and to accompany the Spanish Armada as its "official poet" on its ill-fated expedition against England. Before Christmas, Madrilenos rush to buy a lottery ticket to win "El Gordo" (the Big One). That could be up to 250 million euros if you bought the whole ticket for 200 euros, but most Spaniards will share the costs of a ticket with family, friends and work colleagues. The Spanish Christmas lottery was created in 1763 and is therefore the oldest in the world. In summer, when temperatures soar to more than 100 F/38 C, try to plan a trip back to your hotel to enjoy a siesta during that unbearable afternoon heat. Then, at dusk, when everyone is out on the streets, you will be able to sit out and create the illusion of a summery "Costa Castellana," savoring ice-cold beers, tinto de verano (red wine with lemonade and plenty of ice) or cocktails, in a city that is 248 mi/400 km away from the Mediterranean.
Hotel Overview
Madrid's hotels are concentrated in the center of the city, either strung along the main Paseo de Castellana, the Gran Via (the main artery that leads to the historic center) or in the Barrio de Las Letras. Leisure travelers will be much better off in the city center, where they can walk to most attractions. Advance reservations are advised if you're visiting during the summer months or if you're planning to stay at one of the major hotels in the business areas during the week.
See & Do
Sightseeing
As you walk the streets of Madrid, you never know what you'll find around the next cornera festive tapas bar, a wedding party spilling out of an old church, even a pack of meandering troubadours. The most indelible sight in the city is likely to be a spontaneous one, so keep your eyes open. Though Madrid is best known as a museum city, we suggest you begin your visit by getting to know the older sections of town. Start with Calle Mayor and Plaza Mayor, which are lined by beautiful and historic buildings. Explore the many narrow and winding streets south and west of Puerta del Sol (plan several hours to see this area). Then visit Palacio Real, the royal palace, with its own art treasures and crown jewels. At night, view the illuminated fountain at Plaza de Cibeles and the action pulsing around Puerta del Sol. Finally, set aside some time for museumsa lot of time. Days could be spent in the halls of the Prado alone. Housed in an 18th-century building, the Prado features the works of Rubens, Goya, El Greco, Bosch, Velazquez, Titian and many others. Madrid's most famous contemporary-art museum is the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia. Its centerpiece is Picasso's enormous antiwar (and antiFranco) masterpiece, Guernica. The fabulous works of the Thyssen-Bornemisza collection are displayed at the Villahermosa Palace. If you're ambitious (and fit) enough to tackle all three museums in one day, you can purchase a combination ticket called the Paseo del Arte for 17.60 euros. Other artwork can be seen at the 16th-century Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales, a cloistered Hapsburg-era convent in the heart of downtown known for its collection of religious art, tapestries and wood carvings. (Don't miss the rather bizarre collection of infant Jesus dolls wearing baby clothes made by nuns.) Near the Plaza del Oriente is a similar Hapsburg gem, the Monasterio de la Encarnacion, with an ornate facade and some evocative relics, paintings and polychrome sculptures. It's very possible to get museumed-out in Madrid. If this happens, take a rest at one of the beautiful parks and lakes in the city. One of the
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most charming parksfirst laid out in the 17th centuryis El Retiro, near the Prado. Rent a rowboat and glide among the ducks that rule the park's small lake. On weekends, the park becomes a hive of activity with musicians, painters and street theater. Retiro is also a favorite haunt of Madrid's immigrant community. The Madrid Card combines a transportation pass (including Madrid Vision bus tours) with free entry to various museums and attractions among other discounts. It costs 49.50 euros for 24 hours (41 euros for children ages 6-16 and seniors older than 60), 64 euros for 48 hours (53 euros for children ages 6-16 and seniors older than 60) and 75 euros for 120 hours . You can purchase it at the tourist office at Plaza Mayor, on Madrid Vision buses at its kiosks, in Barajas Airport or online for a discount (http://www.madridcard.com). A metrobus ticket covering 10 journeys on bus or metro train throughout the city is also available at all metro stations and some newspaper kiosks for 9.30 euros. A single metro or bus trip costs 1 euro. If you do not need transportation, opt for the Madrid Card Cultura, which grants entry to more than 50 museums including the "Big Three" the Prado, the Reina Sofia and the Thyssen-Bornemisza without queuing beforehand. It costs 32 euros for 24 hours and 42 euros for 48 hours.
Historic Sites
Catedral de la Almudena Built in an array of styles, this church is dedicated to the city's patron saint and is Madrid's official cathedral. Construction began in 1879 and was finally completed in 1993 after several pauses, most notably during the Spanish civil war (1936-39). In 2004, Crown Prince Felipe married the television journalist Letizia Ortiz in this neo-Gothic church. Its most interesting characteristic is the neo-Romanesque crypt. Daily 9 am-8:30 pm. Cathedral: free. Crypt: 6 euros adults, 4 euros students. Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida This hermitage was built between 1792 and 1798 and decorated by Goya, whose frescoes showing the saint Anthony of Padua amidst scenes of popular life in Madrid were brilliantly restored and are the main reason to visit. Apart from Goya's work, the Ermita also houses the artist's mausoleum (since 1919). One of Madrid's most colorful fiestas takes place on the adjacent plaza 9-13 June. Open Tuesday-Friday 9:30 am-8 pm; Saturday, Sunday and special holidays 10 am-2 pm. Free. Monasterio de la Encarnacion Sister convent to the Descalzas Reales, this 17th-century gem, founded by Margaret of Austria, Philip III's wife, is tucked away in a small square near the Plaza del Oriente and Royal Palace. Though it had to be recontructed after a fire in 1767, its post-Herrera facade and art-filled selection of intimate salons make it an atmospheric visit. Its special claim to fame is the Salon del Relicario where Saint Pantoleon's blood, contained in a glass orb, allegedly solidifies for 24 hours every 27 Julythe eve of his saint's day. The convent is still inhabited by Augustine nuns, but you're unlikely to see them during your visit as they usually remain hidden in their cloisters.
Plaza de la Encarnacion 1 (Opera or Santo Domingo metro stations) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-454-8800 http://www.patrimonionacional.es Glorieta de San Antonio de la Florida 5 (Principe Pio metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-542-0722 http://www.munimadrid.es/ermita Bailen 8-10 (south of Palacio Real; Opera metro station) Madrid, Spain
Tuesday-Saturday 10:30 am-1:30 pm and 4-6:30 pm, Sunday 11 am-2:30 pm. Last admittance 45 minutes before closing. 3.60 euros adults, 2 euros seniors; 6 euros adults, 4.90 euros seniors combined admission with Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales.
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Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales This convent was founded in 1557 by Juana de Austria (daughter of Emperor Charles I), who at age 19 was already the widow of Prince Don Juan of Portugal. In her wake came a succession of titled ladies (the so-called Barefoot Royals), who brought fame to the convent and subsidized it generously. This beautiful, tranquil Renaissance palace, one of the few remaining buildings of the 16th century in Madrid, is filled with art, including works by Titian, Rubens and Brueghel. It's still in use today.
Plaza de las Descalzas (Sol, Opera or Callao metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-454-8800 http://www.patrimonionacional.es
Open to the public Tuesday-Saturday 10:30 am-1:30 pm and 4-6 pm (closed Friday afternoon), Sunday and holidays 11 am-1:45 pm. Booking office closes one hour prior to closing. 5 euros adults, 2.50 euros seniors. Palacio de Liria This classic baroque building is the residence of the duchess of Alba and contains an excellent art collection featuring works by Goya, Rembrandt and Titian. Open by appointment only: You must book a reservation by phone or fax at least a year in advance. Tours take place each Friday at 10 and 11 am and noon. The tour is free. Palacio Real de El Pardo and Casita del Principe A 15-minute bus ride north from the Moncloa terminus takes you to the the capital's "other" Calle Manuel Alonso s/n, El Pardo Royal Palace, originally built as a hunting lodge in the 15th century by Henry III. The first palace Madrid, Spain was built on the site by Charles I, and his son Philip II made many important additions only to see it virtually destroyed by fire in 1604. The 18th century witnessed the rebirth of a larger Phone: 91-376-1500 palace designed by Francesco Sabatini on the orders of Charles III, and its salons today http://www.patrimonionacional.es display a wealth of sumptuous frescoes, murals, paintings and tapestries, some added as late as the 20th century. Gen. Franco ruled the country from the palace with a rod of iron for close to 40 years. Today it serves as a diplomatic rendezvous for visiting dignitaries and heads of state. The French-style gardens are ideal for a relaxing stroll before or after your visit to the palace and Prince's lodge. Open April-September Monday-Saturday 10:30 am-6:45 pm, Sunday 9:30 am-2:30 pm; October-March Monday-Saturday 10:30 am-5:45 pm, Sunday 9:30 am-2:30 pm. Ticket office closes one hour prior to closing. Palacio Real 4 euros; Casita del Principe 3.40 euros. Palace visits are guided and must be booked in advance.
Princesa 20 (Ventura Rodriguez metro station) Madrid, Spain
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Palacio Real de Madrid The residence of Spain's rulers from the late 1700s to the 1930s, this Italianate royal palace, Calle de Bailen at Plaza de Oriente completed in 1764, claims more rooms (around 2,800) than any other in Europe. Thankfully only (Opera metro station) around 50 rooms are open to the public. Its library has one of the biggest collections of books, Madrid, Spain manuscripts, maps and musical scores in the world. There are dozens of Flemish and Spanish tapestries, endless rococo decorations, bejeweled clocks and pompous portraits of monarchs. Phone: 91-454-8700 It also contains an armory with an unrivaled collection of weapons dating back to the 1400s, as http://www.patrimonionacional.es well as the palace's original pharmacya curious mixture of alchemist's den and early laboratory. The salon de trono (throne room) is a rococo jewel decked out in red velvet and allegorical Tiepolo ceiling frescoes. It has remained untouched since the time the Bourbon King Carlos III ruled Spain at the end of the 18th century. (Though Spain still has a royal family, they inhabit a more modest residence, La Zarzuela, on the outskirts of the city and use the Palacio Real only on state occasions.) There is also an interesting art gallery with paintings by Velazquez, Goya and Caravaggio, and a musical instrument collection that includes a Stradivarius violin. Do not miss the colorful Cambio de Guardia (Changing of the Guard) on the Plaza de Armas, which takes place on the first Wednesday of the month (except July and August) at noon between the palace and the Almudena cathedral. Guided tours in English, Spanish, German and French are offered April-September Monday-Saturday 9 am-7 pm, Sunday 9 am-4 pm; October-March Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-4 pm. Ticket office closes one hour prior to closing. When the blue flag is flying, the king is in residence and the palace is closed to the public. 10 euros for an unguided visit, an additional 7 euros for a guide, free for children younger than 5. Audio guides cost 4 euros. Plaza de Cibeles In the middle of this impressive square is an enchanting fountain (built in 1780) dedicated to the Intersection of Calle de Alcala, Paseo del goddess Cybele. Fans of Real Madrid congregate there for spontaneous celebrations when the Prado and Paseo de los Recoletos club wins an important match. The imposing structure with the golden sphere on its roof houses (Banco de Espana metro station) the main offices of Banco de Espana. The "wedding cake" building on the opposite side of the Madrid, Spain plaza is the Palacio de Comunicaciones, formerly Madrid's main post office. Now it is the City Council headquarters and is open to visitors, offering guided tours that include a chance to visit the building's rooftop to enjoy the city views. Nearby, at Paseo de Recoletos 2, is the Casa de las Americas. Built in 1872 by a Spaniard on his return from the New World, it was the site of the 1992 ceremonies commemorating the 500th anniversary of Columbus' landing in America. It's now used as a cultural center promoting the arts of Latin America with art exhibitions, conferences and movies. Plaza de la Independencia In the center of Independence Square is the Puerta de Alcala (or Alcala gate), a grand arch constructed by Francisco Sabatini between 1764 and 1778 to commemorate Charles III's entrance to Madrid. Decorated with warrior angels, the arch still today shows the marks of cannon shrapnel from the Spanish civil war (1936-39). Like the bear and bush statue near Puerta del Sol, it has become one of the emblems of Madrid. The square is only a few feet/meters from one of the main entrances to Madrid's famous Retiro park. Plaza Mayor The most important landmark in Madrid, Plaza Mayor is an almost perfectly preserved 17thSouth of Calle Mayor (southwest of century arcaded square. It was completed in 1619 during the reign of Felipe IIIa statue of him Puerta del Sol, Sol metro station) astride a stallion is at the center of the plaza. Episodes of great historical importance took Madrid, Spain place in this huge square: the tribunals and public executions during the Inquisition, the crowning of kings, great festivals, demonstrations and bullfights. During summer months, the royal balconies on the north side of the square become an outdoor theater and music stage. On Sunday morning, a market for stamp and coin collectors is held on there. Just before Christmas, the square becomes a bazaar for festive decorations and religious regalia. On the plaza are cafes that serve drinks, tapas and meals to patrons sitting outside in the sun. The setting is worth the price.
Intersection of calles Alcala, Serrano and Alfonso XII (Retiro metro station) Madrid, Spain
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Puerta del Sol The semicircular "Gate of the Sun" marks the very middle of Madrid and (at least in the minds of Intersection of Calle Arenal, Calle Mayor Madrilenos) the heart of Spain. A stone slab embedded with a bronze disk in the pavement and Calle de Alcala (Sol metro station) marks the spot as Kilometro Cero (Kilometer Zero), where six of Spain's national highways Madrid, Spain officially begin. On the eastern side of the square, near the end of Calle Alcala, is a statue of a bear pawing a strawberry bush (El Oso y el Madrono). This is both the emblem of the city and a favorite meeting place. The equestrian statue in the center of the square represents King Carlos III. Puerta del Sol has been totally modernized and largely pedestrianized, and its underground station, whose jet-age entrance is a gleaming, humpbacked glass and metal tunnel, was impressively expanded to accommodate the trio of metro lines converging there. The square is the inevitable starting point for any tour of the city. The main building, the Casa de Correos, was built as the city's main post office in 1768. It now houses the regional government of the Comunidad de Madrid. On New Year's Eve, a huge merry crowd impatiently waits for the big clock (added in 1856) to strike midnight, and the custom is to eat one grape at each strike, to bring good luck for the next 12 months. This busy area attracts a lot of pickpockets, so stay alert and keep your valuables close at hand.
Museums
It would be hard to find another city with more inaugurations and expansions of museums. This city's 70 museums include "the Big Three" the Prado, Reina Sofia and the Thyssen-Bornemisza (all located in the area known as the "Golden Triangle of Art" and all recently expanded)as well as the Caixa Forum, the Museo del Traje and the Lazaro Galdiano Museum, to name but a few. Madrilenos consider their city to be a major mecca for art. Some museums do not open on Monday, so do check opening times before planning your visit. Ticket offices sometimes close about one hour before closing time. If you plan to visit each of Madrid's "big three" museums, you might be interested in purchasing the Paseo del Arte Pass, which gives onetime access to each and allows you to skip the lines. It can be purchased at the museum's ticket offices for 17.60 euros adults (discounts for seniors and children). The Madrid Culture Card also offers free access to the permanent exhibitions of some museums. Prices vary according to the number of days you wish to use it, ranging 32 euros for 24 hours to 85 euros for 120 hours. It can be purchased at the central Tourist Office in the Plaza Mayor, at the Barajas airport and at some kiosks in the city center. Museo de la Ciencia: CosmoCaixa This interactive science museum was made to appeal to children. It includes exhibition areas designed to show the laws of nature and the evolution of matter from atomic structure to the most complex forms of life. There are also special activity rooms such as the Bubble Planetarium. It takes about two hours to see the two permanent exhibitions and about one hour for each of the four activity rooms, so plan on a long day. There's a restaurant on-site. Open daily except Monday 10 am-8 pm. 3 euros admission for the permanent exhibitions, 2 euros-3 euros for each activity room; free for children ages 3-7. Free for everyone the last Sunday of the month.
Pintor Velazquez s/n (Marques de la Valdavia metro station) Alcobendas, Spain Phone: 91-484-5200 http://www.fundacio.lacaixa.es/nuestrosc entros/cosmocaixamadrid/cosmocaixama drid_ca.html
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Casa-Museo de Lope de Vega The house of Spain's greatest dramatist is, strangely, on Calle Cervantes (named for Lope de Vega's greatest rival, who died 1616). It's well worth visiting for its reconstruction of life in 17thcentury Madrid and its lovely gardens. Many parts of the house were reconstructed in 1935 according to descriptions by the writer, who lived a rather scandalous life there from 1610 until his death in 1635. The house was recently restored.
Cervantes 11 (Anton Martin metro station) Madrid, Spain
Open daily except Monday 10 am-3 pm, last visit commences at 2 pm. Reservations recommended. Free. Museo Arqueologico Nacional The National Archaeological Museum, housed in the renovated building of the Biblioteca Nacional, has an impressive collection of artwork and artifacts that includes the celebrated Celto-Iberian bust known as La Dama de Elche, which was probably carved in the fourth or third century BC. Other highlights include the slightly younger Dama de Baza, a wonderfully rich collection of Visigothic treasures found in Toledo, and artwork and architectural elements from Spain's Islamic period. In the gardens is a replica of the Altamira Caves, complete with convincing copies of the prehistoric wall paintings.
Serrano 13 (Colon or Serrano metro station) Madrid, Spain 28001 Phone: 91-577-7912 http://man.mcu.es
Open Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-8 pm, Sunday and holidays 9:30 am-3 pm. The museum is currently undergoing a major renovation. Until its completioncurrently estimated at no earlier than 2012access to the Tesoros del Museo Arqueologico Nacional is free. Museo Cerralbo Currently closed for renovation until the end of 2012, this museum presents the collections of the Marquis de Cerralbo just as they were left upon his death in 1922. Set in a large 19th-century villa, the collection includes paintings, sculpture, furniture, ceramics and porcelain, fabrics and tapestries, silverware, jewelry and armor. Highlights are El Greco's Ecstasy of Saint Francis of Assisi and the idyllic little garden with its Roman busts.
Ventura Rodriguez 17 (Plaza de Espana or Ventura Rodriguez metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-547-3646 http://museocerralbo.mcu.es
Museo de America For those interested in Spain's conquest of the New World, this is the place to go. Housed inside is an incredible collection of pre-Columbian art documenting the Incan, Aztecan and Mayan cultures. Be sure to check out the Madrid Codex, a massive document chronicling Mayan culture, and the gold treasure of the extinct Columbian Quimbayas. Great view of the Guadarrama mountains from the museum terrace and the Faro de Madrid (lighthouse) tower built in 1992 in front of the museum to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the discovery of America (the latter currently closed for renovation).
Ave. de los Reyes Catolicos 6 (Moncloa metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-543-9437 or 91-549-2641 http://museodeamerica.mcu.es
Open Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-8:30 pm, Sunday 10 am-3 pm. 3 euros. Free Saturday afternoon and Sunday. Museo de Caixa Forum Designed by prize-winning Swiss architects De Meuron and Herzog, this eye-catching rustPaseo del Prado 36 (Atocha metro cum-ochre-hued building, just opposite the Prado museum, was ingeniously converted from a station) former industrial building that used to house the city's main electricity offices. The museum Madrid, Spain specializes in avant-garde exhibitions of work by contemporary artists, often including video showings, concerts and conferences. Browse the small but comprehensive bookshop selling a variety of art-oriented books or relax at the chic top-floor cafeteria. Outside, beside the entry plaza, a remarkable vertical garden climbs the wall of a neighboring building and an eccentric statue depicts an elephant standing on its trunk. Daily 10 am-8 pm. Free.
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Museo de Calcografia Nacional Located in the same building as the Museo de la Real Academia, it contains original plates used by Goya and other artists for chalcography (engraving on copper or brass). You can buy limited-edition prints there.
Alcala 13 (Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain
Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-2 pm. During special exhibits, the museum is also open Monday-Saturday 5-8 pm and Sunday 10 am-2 pm. Free. Museo de Historia This museum has partially reopened from a major refurbishment. Better known for its superb Spanish baroque facade than for its contents, this 18th-century building exhibits important municipal documents, models, paintings, drawings and sketches related to the history of Madrid. It was formerly the Museo Municipal.
Fuencarral 78 (Tribunal metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-701-1863 http://www.munimadrid.es/museodehistori a
Museo de la Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando The name may be a mouthful, but this art academy has interesting works by Goya, Rubens, El Greco, Murillo, Sorolla, Bellini and Vicente Lopez. Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali studied there. Open Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-3 pm; Sunday and holidays 9 am-2:30 pm. 5 euros adults, 2.5 euros students. Free on Wednesday. Museo del Traje This costume museum brings together the collections of several anthropological and ethnological museums dating from the 16th century to the present day and includes exhibits from Paco Rabanne, Versace, Chanel and Galliano. There is a fun workshop area where you can try on some of the different costumes. The building is set in pleasant gardens with an openair restaurant offering a perfect setting for dining out during the warm summer evenings. Open Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-7 pm, Sunday 10 am-3 pm. 3 euros. Free on Saturday after 2 pm and all day Sunday. Museo Lazaro Galdiano The collection, housed in a beautiful mansion on the elegant Calle Serrano, comprises more than 15,000 works of art and a library containing more than 20,000 books. Artists on show include Bosch, Goya, Velazquez, El Greco, Murillo, Zubaran, Constable, Reynolds and Gainsborough. You will also find a good collection of porcelain, clocks, bronzes and many other decorative arts. Open daily except Tuesday 10 am-4:30 pm. 4 euros. Free on Sunday.
Calle Serrano 122 (Ruben Dario or Gregorio Maranon metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-561-6084 http://www.flg.es Ave. Juan De Herrera 2 (Moncloa or Ciudad Universitaria metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-549-7150 http://museodeltraje.mcu.es Alcala 13 (Sol or Sevilla metro stations) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-524-0864 http://rabasf.insde.es
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Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia This is Madrid's premier museum for contemporary art, including sculpture, paintings and engravings from Spain and around the world. You'll find works by Spain's elite artists of the 1900s: Miro, Dali, Juan Gris, Tapies and Picasso. It's especially famous for housing Picasso's antiwar masterpiece, Guernica, a work that is large enough to fill an entire wall. The museum, which is housed in a converted 18th-century hospital, also presents Spain's most prestigious traveling exhibitions. Also on the premises are a cinema (mostly art films, shown in their original language and subtitled in Spanish), an excellent bookshop, a library, a restaurant and a cafe located in the extension designed by architect Jean Nouvel.
Santa Isabel 52 (Atocha metro station) Madrid, Spain 28012 Phone: 91-774-1000 http://www.museoreinasofia.es
Open Monday and Wednesday-Saturday 10 am-9 pm, Sunday 10 am-2:30 pm. Main permanent exhibition 6 euros adults; temporary exhibitions 3 euros adults. Free Monday-Friday 7-9 pm, Saturday 2:30-9 pm and all day Sunday. Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas Furniture, glass, pottery and jewelry from the 1400s to the 1800s are displayed, as well as an interesting collection from the Far East. Open Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-3 pm, Sunday and holidays 10 am-3 pm. 3 euros adults. Free on Sunday.
Montalban 12 (Banco de Espana metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-532-6499 http://mnartesdecorativas.mcu.es
Museo Nacional del Prado A definite must-see, the Prado houses one of the oldest and greatest collections of art in the world, containing all the finest works obtained by the Spanish royalsmore than 3,000 paintings in all. See as much as you can, but don't miss these standouts: Velazquez's Las Meninas, El Greco's The Nobleman with his Hand on his Chest, Bosch's The Garden of Earthly Delights, Durer's Adam and Eve and Goya's two Majas (nude and clothed). You'll also find works by Ribera, Murillo, Zurbaran, Fra Angelico, Antonello da Messina, Rafael, Van Dyck, Titan and Rembrandt.
Paseo del Prado (near Retiro Park, Banco de Espana or Atocha metro stations) Madrid, Spain 28014 Phone: 91-330-2800 http://www.museodelprado.es
A spectacular extension built by Rafael Moneo incorporates the remaining cloisters of the Iglesia de San Jeronimo el Real. It is reserved for special exhibitions. Further expansion plans are hotly discussed and have been delayed. When the line at the main entrance at Puerta de Goya (opposite the Ritz Hotel) is too long, walk over to the lesser-known entrance at the Puerta de Murillo (opposite the Botanic Gardens). The lines also tend to shorten at siesta time, around 2 pm. Open Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-8 pm (last admission 7:30 pm). 8 euros adults (7 euros for advance bookings online or by phone). Free entry Tuesday-Saturday 6-8 pm and Sunday 5-8 pm. Audio guides are 3.50 euros for the main exhibition or 5 euros for both the main and temporary exhibitions. Museo Sorolla This is the former house of Valencian painter Joaquin Sorolla, whose familiar Mediterranean beach scenes are easily recognized and enjoyed by even the most novice of art lovers. It's well worth a visit. Open Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-8 pm, Sunday and holidays 10 am-3 pm. 3 euros adults. Free on Sunday.
Paseo General Martinez Campos 37 (Iglesia, Gregorio Maranon or Ruben Dario metro stations) Madrid, Spain 28010 Phone: 91-310-1584 http://museosorolla.mcu.es
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Museo Taurino Currently closed for renovation, Madrid's bullfighting museum is located at the bullring. It houses matadors' costumes, the heads of fighting bulls and an extraordinary collection of old posters. Open March-October Tuesday-Friday 9:30 am-2:30 pm. Free. Guided tours available TuesdayFriday. Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza This group of artworks, now housed in the Villahermosa Palace (built in the early 1800s) and in a modern building (the latter showing the collections of flamboyant Carmen ThyssenBornemisza), was once one of the most important private collections in the world. In 1993, it was acquired by means of a long-term loan by the Spanish state. The 19th- and 20th-century paintings (impressionist, expressionist, abstract and pop art) are exceptional, and there are also some fine medieval, Renaissance and baroque works, including some by Ghirlandaio, El Greco and the Dutch-school painters. The ground floor shows masterpieces of 20th-century art.
Paseo del Prado 8 (Retiro Park or Banco de Espana metro stations) Madrid, Spain 28014 Phone: 91-369-0151 http://www.museothyssen.org Patio de Caballos, Plaza Monumental de Las Ventas, Alcala 237 (Ventas metro station) Madrid, Spain
Open daily except Monday 10 am-7 pm (last admission 6:30 pm). Main exhibition 8 euros, temporary exhibitions 8 euros. Combination tickets are available for 13 euros. Discounted online bookings available.
Neighborhoods & Districts

Calle Mayor One of Madrid's oldest and most important thoroughfares, it runs southwest from Puerta del Sol, taking you through the heart of the medieval city. Of special note is Plaza de la Villa, where you'll find examples of more than three centuries of Spanish architectural development. Two of the oldest surviving examples are Torre de los Lujanes, a 15th-century building in Mudejar style (the work of Christianized Muslims after the Reconquest) and Casa de Cisneros, built in the ornate, 16th-century Spanish renaissance style. The Casa de la Villa building (formerly City Hall) was begun in the 1600s but finished in baroque style. Oldest of them all, though, is the 12th-century Mudejar tower set atop Madrid's oldest church, tiny San Nicolas de los Servitas, in a neighboring Golden Age and medieval side street. In the center of the square is a statue of the winner of the battle of Lepanto, Alvaro de Bazan. Gran Via A broad street that begins near Plaza de Cibeles and runs west to Plaza Callao and then northwest to Plaza de Espana, Gran Via effectively divides the old city of the south from the newer parts northward. Built in the early 1900s and intended to resemble Manhattan's Broadway, this avenue is always jammed with traffic, shoppers, theater-goers and sightseers. Some side streets, such as Montera, get a bit sleazy. In 2010, the street celebrated its 100th anniversary since work first began on its eastern end near the Bank of Spain at Cibeles. Lavapies, Malasana and Chueca These are the three most traditional quarters of Madrid, crossed with narrow streets and filled with 18th- and 19th-century buildings. Except for Chueca at night, they're less touristy than the Austrias area, though there are plenty of cafes and taverns. Lavapies, with its increasingly ethnic population, is south of Sol. The more grungy and bohemian Malasana, which only really comes alive at night, and avant-garde Chuecahub of the gay community and home of countless bars and eating spotsare just north of the Gran Via. Madrid de los Austrias Just to the west of Plaza Mayor, this is one of the most quaint and colorful sections of Old Madrid. The area reflects Spain's Hapsburg legacy with some pastel-colored buildings. It's an excellent area for tapas, cafes and strolling.
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Salamanca Situated just to the west of El Retiro Park, this is the most exclusive and expensive zone of Madrid. It dates from the early 19th century and is filled with fine restaurants, elegant shops and stylish mansions (now mainly divided into apartments). There is great strolling along the green Paseo de Recoletos and the noble shopping areathe famous "triangle" of Calle Serrano, Calle Velazquez and Calle Ortega y Gasset with its expensive array of boutiques of fashion designers.
Parks & Gardens

Campo del Moro This hidden gem of a park, named after a medieval Muslim chief who camped there in 1109 to siege the city, is located directly below the Palacio Real. Formerly used for jousting tournaments, it's now a peaceful area of statues, flowers, lawns and woodlands where you can wander and relax. It is also home to two famous fountains: Los Tritones and Las Conchas. Take the Cuesta de San Vicente at the Plaza Espana end of Calle Bailen down to the Principe Pio roundabout and turn left into the Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto. The entrance is on your left. Open 10 am until 6-9 pm, depending on time of year. Dehesa de la Villa Probably the least known of Madrid's parks, this peaceful region of meadows, gardens and Francos Rodriguez metro station copses lies in the northwest of the city, encroaching in part on the University grounds. Originally Madrid, Spain pastureland for cattle, it first became popular as a recreational area for the city's inhabitants in the 19th century when it was named the Dehesa de Amaniel after Henry II of Castile's number one crossbowman. As its original oak woods died out, they were replaced by pine, cypress, acacia, almond and cork trees planted by Isabel II, giving it a Mediterranean look and attracting a wide variety of birds, including goldfinches, starlings and doves. Beloved today by walkers and cyclists alike, it feels a long wayand a world apartfrom the bustling city center. El Parque del Buen Retiro The most central and popular park in Madrid, Retiro Park is a delightful mix of formal gardens The park is bordered by Calle de Alfonso and wide-open spaces. Inaugurated as a royal retreat in 1632, the grounds suffered damage XII, Calle de Alcala and Avenida de during the Napoleonic invasion in the early 1800s and later became public property. Today, the Menendez Pelayo (Retiro or Atocha park includes 330 acres/135 hectares of gardens, trees, monuments and fountains and is one metro stations) of the largest green areas in the city center. Jog or stroll through the park or row a boat across Madrid, Spain the lake (7 euros per person for 45 minutes). Some small stands and cafes sell drinks and sandwiches. On summer evenings, concerts and free films are shown in the area known as La Chopera. On Sunday morning, the entertainment includes street artists, musicians, fortune-tellers and puppet shows. The city council organizes ferias (fairs) in the park: The biggest is Feria del Libro (Book Fair), in early June. Art exhibits are staged in the beautiful Palacio de Velazquez and Palacio de Cristal, and a visit to the rose garden within the park is a charming and relaxing activity. The main entrance is located in the Plaza de la Independencia. Daily 7 am-11 pm in winter, 7 am-midnight in summer.
Paseo Virgen del Puerto s/n (Principe Pio metro station) Madrid, Spain
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La Casa de Campo Located west of the city center and across Rio Manzanares, this park spreads over more than Madrid, Spain 4,300 acres/740 hectares. The area was used exclusively by royalty until 1931, when it was opened to the public. Within it is an amusement park, a zoo, a swimming pool, a lake you can Phone: 91-526-9793 for information and explore by boat, a sports center and a municipal nursery. Be aware, however, that some of the bookings streets on the south side of the park are lined with Madrid's many prostitutes after 6 pm, http://www.teleferico.com although police have cracked down on the scene. The park can be reached by taking the metro to the Batan or El Lago stationsthe main entrance is close to Glorieta de San Vicente. A more leisurely mode of entering is to stroll from Principe Pio railway station across the expanded bridge over the Manzanares and wander along the tree-lined paths that lead to Lago. The most interesting way to get there is the teleferico (cable car), which takes you high over the river to the middle of the park, a 1.5 mi/2.5 km trip at 131 ft/40 m above the ground. Pick up the cable car at Paseo del Pintor Rosales (Arguelles metro station). Teleferico runs April-September daily noon-8 or 9 pm (depending on the month); October-March Saturday and Sunday noon-7 pm. Tickets cost 3.70 euros one-way or 5.35 euros round-trip. Family and group rates are available, and children younger than 3 ride free. . Parque del Oeste This delightful 100-year-old park, planned by landscape artist Cecilio Rodriguez, slopes down from Pintor Rosales Avenue in Arguelles district toward the Manzanares River. Stroll along its meandering trails past marked cypress, pine, cedar and birch trees, and savor the views across to the Casa del Campo and distant Guadarrama Mountains. It's a popular picnic area on weekends. Parque El Capricho Located near Parque Juan Carlos I, northeast from the center, this smaller park could not be Paseo de la Alameda de Osuna (near El more different in mood and appearance. For many, it's the most charming and beautiful in the Capricho metro station) city. Originally founded and laid out by French experts in the 18th century, it's had more than its Madrid, Spain fair share of ups and down over the years, having been abandoned for decades and reaching a nadir during the Civil War when it was used as an army base. Today you can wander leafy paths, view gazebos, statues, neoclassical monuments and swan-filled ponds, and relax under huge shady oaks on hot summer days. The delightful grass-hedged mazeeasily seen from the terraces above, but not open to the publicepitomizes the park's unique aura of romanticism. Open weekends and holidays only 9 am-6 pm in winter, till 9 pm in summer. Free. Parque Juan Carlos I This huge, agoraphobia-inducing park, a modern riposte to the Casa del Campo, sprawls over Glorieta Don Juan de Borbon s/n 370 acres/150 hectares on the eastern edge of the city. It was opened in 1992 in honor of (Campo de las Naciones and El Capricho Madrid's election that year as European Cultural Capital and is laid out with expansive squares, metro stations) avenues, recreation areas and waterways on which you can go canoeing or even take a Madrid, Spain catamaran trip. Children can enjoy a ride on a Disney-style train around the main areas, and a large auditorium features occasional music shows. Highlights include the Jardin de tres http://www.parquejuancarlos.net Culturas with its Moorish archways and fountains and the Estufa Fria botanical zone with its rich selection of glassed-in plants and trees (open daily 10 am-10 pm; free). The park's grassy zones, which are especially popular with kitefliers, enjoy magnificent views north towards the Guadarrama mountains and south towards to wide open tablelands of Castilla La Mancha. Cycle trails and walkways meander through olive groves that existed before the park was conceived. From the top of its easterly cypress-dotted hillock, you can look down on the attractive neighboring Olivar de la Hinojosa golf club and watch planes landing and taking off at nearby Barajas airport. Picnicking is not allowed in the park. Open daily 7 am-midnight.
Moncloa or Arguelles metro stations Madrid, Spain
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Parque Quinta Fuente del Berro This enchanting 18-acre/7.4-hectare spot (whose names means "Watercress Fountain") Alcalde Sainz de Baranda s/n (O'Donnell conjures up a bygone age, resembling a cool North European backwater rather than a corner of metro station) torrid Castille. The first trees and gardens were planted in the 17th century on the site of an Madrid, Spain orchard, and over the years it has expanded and matured into the idyllic mingling of duck-filled ponds, grassy lawns, colorful flowerbeds, and towering oaks and cedars you see today. Some garden areas have been deliberately planted with aromatic herbs whose distinctive scents make them recognizable to blind visitors. Artistic attractions include a statue of the Russian poet Alexander Pushkin and a cultural center where frequent modest exhibitions of paintings are held. Adjoining the park is a tasteful and charming array of 1920s villa- and tree-lined avenues, above which, disconcertingly, looms the colossal needlelike TV tower known to salacious Madrilenos as el piruli (the lollipop). Daily June-September 7 am-midnight. October-May 7 am-10 pm. Free. Plaza de Oriente A pleasant garden with a small playground, Plaza de Oriente connects Teatro Real (the opera Calle de Bailen 9 (Opera metro station) house) with Palacio Real and Almudena Cathedral. In the plaza are 44 statues of Spanish kings Madrid, Spain and queens. They were designed to go on the facade of the Palacio Real but were found to be too heavy for the roof to support. In the center of the square is a superb statue of Felipe IV on horseback. Just off the plaza is the idyllic Jardines de Sabatini, created around 1930, a perfect place for siesta. In summer, concerts are organized in the evenings. Open 9 am-9 pm in winter and 9 am-10 pm in summer. Real Jardin Botanico When the lines at the Prado become excessive, walk just one block south and have a look at these wonderful botanical gardens created in 1781 by Charles III. They're delightful to wander through, and the worldwide collection of more than 30,000 trees and plants is fascinating for any amateur botanist. Open daily 10 am until 6-9 pm, depending on time of year. 2.50 euros adults.
Plaza de Murillo 2 (near Retiro Park, Atocha metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-420-3017 http://www.rjb.csic.es
Amusement Parks
Parque de Atracciones A haunted-house ride, children's theater and puppetry are just some of the 40 attractions on offer at this amusement park. Open daily noon-midnight in July and August; noon-8 pm mid-April to mid-September and till midnight Saturday and Sunday. (We do, however, recommend you check the calendar on the Web site.) A ticket allowing admission to all the amusements costs 29.90 euros adults and children taller than 47 in/120 cm, 23.90 euros children measuring 35 in/90 cm-47 in/120 cm tall, and free for children shorter than 35 in/90 cm.
In Casa de Campo (Batan metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-463-2900 or 902-024-100 http://www.parquedeatracciones.es
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Warner Bros. Park This movie-oriented theme park can be reached in about 30 minutes by bus or cercanias (suburban) train. Its five separate areas and rides are based on characters and sets in Warner Bros. movies and cartoons. Highlights include Hollywood Boulevard, Old West Territory and a high-speed roller coaster. Food and drink must be purchased on the premises, which can make it an expensive outing.
Camino de la Warner (13 mi/22 km south of Madrid) San Martin de la Vega, Spain Phone: 91-821-1234 http://www.parquewarner.com
Open 11 am-midnight in July and August and Saturday until 1 am; closes at 8 or 11 pm during other months. Ticket office closes one hour before the park. 39 euros adults and children taller than 55 in/140 cm, 30 euros children 39 in/100 cm-55 in/140 cm, free for children shorter than 39 in/100 cm. Family and group discounts available. Parking minimum 8 euros.
Zoos & Wildlife

Faunia Fun-filled and enlightening, this ecological and biodiversity theme park for children of all ages boasts a wide variety of animals as well as more than 1,000 species of plant life from all corners of the Earth. Other facilites include a restaurant, education center and animal clinic. It's located on the eastern edge of the city and can easily be reached by public transport. Open from 10 am; closing times vary by season. 25.50 euros adults, 19.50 euros seniors and children ages 3-7. Madrid Zoo This zoo and aquarium has a strong record for breeding programs and good conditions for animals. About 2,000 species are housed in spacious environments, and there are usually several daily shows with performing seals, sea lions, dolphins and birds of prey. The aquarium specializes in tropical marine fauna. Open daily 10:30 am-6 pm (8 or 9 pm in summer). 19.40 euros adults, 15.70 euros children ages 3-7, free for children younger than 3.
Casa de Campo s/n Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-512-3770 or 91-512-3780 http://www.zoomadrid.com Ave. de las Comunidades 28 (Valdebernardo metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-301-6210 http://www.faunia.es
Other Options
Museo de Escultura al Aire Libre de la Castellana This open-air exhibit of 17 abstract sculptures is, strangely enough, intentionally placed underneath an overpass. The display is arranged chronologically beginning with works from the 1920s and 1930s, including a piece by Joan Miro, and continuing to the 1950s, with a piece by Eduardo Chillida. Other pieces are by Eusebio Sempere and Julio Gonzalez. Open daily. Free.
Paseo de la Castellana 40-41 (Ruben Dario metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-701-1863 http://www.munimadrid.es/museoairelibre
Real Fabrica de Tapices Founded at the beginning of the 1700s, the Royal Tapestry Factory displays tapestries, drawings, rugs and carpets. It still turns out very expensive handmade tapestries, 63 of them based on the Goya cartoons specially drawn for this Royal Factory. You can watch them being made. Open Monday-Friday 10 am-2 pm. Closed in August. 4 euros adults, 3 euros children ages 612.
Fuenterrabia 2 (Menendez Pelayo metro station) Madrid, Spain 28014 Phone: 91-434-0550 http://www.realfatapices.com
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Templo de Debod This Ptolemaic temple was given to Spain in 1968 by the Egyptian government in gratitude for Spain's help in rescuing the temples at Abu Simbel. The architectural ensemblewhich comes from Lower Nubia, south of Egypt, and is dedicated to Amun and Isisis nicely displayed in a park, and there are informative displays inside the temple. This is a perfect spot to watch the sunset over the city in summer. Open Tuesday-Friday 9:45 am-1:45 pm and 4:15-6:15 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-2 pm. Free.
Calle Ferraz 1 or Paseo del Pintor Rosales 2 (Ventura Rodriguez, Arguelles or Plaza de Espana metro stations) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-366-7415 http://www.munimadrid.es/templodebod
Recreation
The concrete sprawl that is Madrid by no means rules out outdoor recreation. Although the standard joke is that the main form of physical exercise in the city is ambling from one tapas bar to another, there's a wealth of other outdoor activities to enjoy. You can have a pleasant walk or run in Retiro Park or Casa de Campo, free of traffic, crowds and tapas bars, or swim in a variety of indoor or outdoor pools (summer only). Casa de Campo is also a good spot for mountain and road biking. On the city outskirts, the pine-wooded Dehesa de la Villa to the north (Franco Rodriguez metro station) and spacious Parque de Juan Carlos I to the east (Campo de las Naciones metro station) provide additional walking opportunities. There are more options the farther out you venture. Golf courses and country clubs with tennis courts and other recreational facilities are plentiful, but most of them are somewhat restrictive for nonmembers. The hills and mountains around Madrid abound with hiking trails.
Bicycling
Casa de Campo, Retiro Park and Parque Juan Carlos I are all very pleasant areas for bicycling, at least in the daytime, with plenty of trails. Also, on Sunday 11 am-2 pm, several city streets are closed to car traffic, including Fuencarral from Bilbao to Quevedo, making this a prime time to explore on two wheels. Calle Serrano offers a bike trail so it is easier to reach Retiro Park. Ordinarily, Madrid's streets are too hectic for cycling. Forming a circle around the city are 40 mi/64 km of lanes dedicated solely to the enjoyment of cyclists and pedestrians. http://anilloverdeciclista.es. For information on companies that hire bikes in Madrid, visit http://www.bikespain.info. Bicimania This company rents bikes for full-day or weeklong excursions. Monday-Saturday 10:30 am-2 pm and 5-8:30 pm. About 16 euros on Monday-Friday, 25 euros on Saturday and Sunday or 100 euros a week. A cash deposit of 150 euros is required (500 euros for bikes with rear suspension), as well as a copy of your passport.
Palencia 20 (Alvarado metro station) Madrid, Spain 28020 Phone: 91-533-1189 http://www.bicimania.com
Bybike This company rents bikes (for adults and children) by the hour and is located opposite one of the east side gates of the Retiro Park. Open Monday-Friday 10 am-3 pm and 5-9 pm in winter; Monday-Friday 10 am-9 pm in summer; Saturday, Sunday and holidays 9 am-9 pm year-round. 4 euros per hour MondayFriday, 5 euros per hour Saturday and Sunday.
Ave. Menendez Pelayo 35 Madrid, Spain Phone: 902-876-483 http://www.bybike.info
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Ciclos Otero This company, located in the Austria district, rents bikes, helmets, locks and so on. 15 euros per day, 80 euros per week. 280 euros for one month.
Calle Segovia 18-20 (La Latina metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-541-5714 or 91-547-3225 http://www.oterociclos.es
Karacol Sport This company has bikes for full-day outings. Daily 10:30 am-3 pm and 5-8 pm (Thursday till 9:30 pm). 16 euros per day with a cash deposit of 50 euros plus a photocopy of your passport.
Tortosa 8 (Atocha metro station) Madrid, Spain 28045 Phone: 91-539-9633 http://www.karacol.com
Bird Watching
A fact little known to most visitors is that both Madrid and its surrounding province arethanks to their central position in the peninsula incredibly rich in bird life. At times you can even see seagulls winging their way over and beside the city's River Manzanares, attracted by the improvements made to Madrid's once maligned river. The best areas for bird-watchers to visit are the northern Guadarrama mountains, the fringes of the protected El Pardo national reserve, the eastern village of Fresno del Torote, and the southern wetlands of the Laguna de San Juan near Chinchon and Laguna de Campillo near Rivasvaciamadrid. Just a few of the hundred or so species on view in the mountains and countryside include bustards, kestrels, eaglets, owls, cranes, hawks and vultures, while the waterways abound with grebes, herons, coots and egrets. Stork spotters should take the half-hour train ride to Alcala de Henares, where there are bevies of the gawky-cum-graceful birds tending their huge, precariously located nests on the spires, steeples and pylons of the monuments. Tours can be arranged by AVESP (Asociacion de Aves de Espana). English-speaking guides are available. Phone 620-15-1814. http://www.birdwatchingmadrid.com.
Boating & Sailing

Madrid may be a long way from the sea, but many of the province's pantanos (reservoirs) provide opportunities for hoisting a jib. The pinefringed El Atazar (about 40 mi/64 km to the north) and San Juan (60 mi/97 km to the west) both have yachts for hire, while down south in the Vega del Tajo you can sail along the Tagus, the province's widest river, as far as Aranjuez. El Atazar is the largest stretch of water in the area and offers sailing, kayaking, windsurfing and dinghy hire, as does San Juan. For the former, head for the village of El Berrueco by bus from Plaza Castilla or drive up the N-1 highway. For the latter, take the bus to San Martin de Valdeiglesias from Principe Pio or drive along the M-S07. The easiest route to the Tagus river is by bus or train to Aranjuez. Alternatively, buses run from the Mendez Alvaro south bus station to Fuentiduena del Tajo.
If you want a less-complicated water activity in the city center, you can simply hire a rowing boat in the Retiro's estanque (pond) or Casa de Campo's lago (lake), dip your oars and glide among the ducks and fishes.
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Bowling
Area Recreativa at the Chamartin Railway Station This is the best place in town to bowl. Its 20 lanes are bright, lively and noisyespecially on weekends. Open Sunday-Thursday 10 am-midnight, Friday 10 am-1 am, Saturday 10 am-2 am. 3.90 euros Sunday-Thursday, 4.40 euros Friday and Saturday, 1 euro shoe rental.
Estacion Chamartin, Augustin de Foxa 26 (Chamartin metro station) Madrid, Spain
Golf
There are more than 20 campos de golf (golf courses) in and around Madrid, but not all of them allow nonmembers to play. Also, as a rule, you are not allowed to play golf on any Spanish course unless you are "federated" by the Real Federacion Espanola de Golf, so before packing your golf clubs, contact the association for more information. Phone 90-220-0052. http://www.golfspainfederacion.com. Club de Campo Villa de Madrid This is the best course in Madrid, with 36 holes and a full-range sports club. There are also tennis, swimming and equestrian facilities. Daily till 10 pm. Opening hours depend on time of year. Entry fee 15.90 euros, weekends 32.40 euros. Greens fees for 18 holes 65 euros Monday-Friday, 120 euros Saturday and Sunday. Equipment and carts are available to rent. Club de Golf Olivar de la Hinojosa This municipal golf center has a nine-hole course and an 18-hole course. A handicap card is required to play there. Open year-round. Greens fees 29 euros for the nine-hole course and 48 euros for the 18-hole course.
Avenida de Dublin s/n, Campo de las Naciones (near Barajas Airport) Madrid, Spain 28042 Phone: 91-721-1889 http://www.golfolivar.com Carretera de Castilla, Km 2 Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-550-2010 http://www.clubvillademadrid.com
Golf Green Canal In the heart of the city, a municipal and urban golf school with a driving range and nine-hole, par 27 pitch-and-putt course, eight padel courts and swimming pools. Open daily 9 am-10 pm.
Avenida Islas Filipinas (corner of Avenida Pablo Iglesias; Rios Rosas, Islas Filipinas or Canal metro stations) Madrid, Spain Phone: 902-222-421 http://www.greencanalgolf.es
Hiking & Walking

Senderismo (hiking) around Madrid is excellent. Two of the areas closest to the city are around El Escorial, 25 mi/40 km northwest of Madrid and Cercedilla, 38 mi/57 km north of Madrid. Both can easily be reached by train or bus. The latter has six clearly marked walking trails of varying difficulty and distance. For greater challenges, try the mountains near Navacerrada, about 30 mi/50 km north. You can purchase detailed maps at La Tienda Verde. http://www.tiendaverde.es.
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Horseback Riding
There are plenty of facilities for galloping across the Madrid countryside both close to the center of town and in villages in the surrounding province. Nearest is the Mirasierra Riding Club on the way to El Pardoa mere 10- to 15-minute bus ride away from the Moncloa terminus on the Carretera de Fuencarral km 3.5. It caters to all riding levels for around 12 euros-15 euros per hour. You can also take half-day or full-day rides for 40 euros-60 euros. Phone 91-734-7627. Information about English-speaking horse riding clubs and licenses to ride can be obtained at the Real Federacion Hipica Espanola. Open Monday-Thursday 9 am-2 pm and 3:30-6 pm, Friday 8 am-3 pm. Monte Esquinza 28 (Colon or Ruben Dario metro stations). Phone 91-4364200. http://www.rfhe.com.
Skiing
To the north of Madrid lies the Sierra de Guadarrama, and this mountain range is home to three small ski resorts: Puerto de Navacerrada, which can be reached by narrow-gauge train from Chamartin to Cercedilla or by bus from Moncloa (phone 90-288-2328); Valcotos (phone 91-563-6031); and Valdesqui, located 45 mi/72 km from Madrid reached by bus from Moncloa or by train to Cotos station (phone 90-2886446; http://www.valdesqui.es). Slightly further afield is La Pinilla (phone 90-287-9070; http://www.lapinilla.es). They all offer half-day or full-day forfeits and prices range 30 euros-50 euros. Ski and boot rental costs 20 euros-25 euros. Parque de Nieve This is an indoor, artificial slope that can be configured with different terrains. There are separate areas for skiing, snowboarding and tubing, as well as an ice wall for climbers. A ski and snowboard school is also available. Temperatures are kept at a constant cool 28 F/-2 C. Open Monday-Thursday, Sunday and holidays 10 am-midnight, Friday and Saturday 10 am-2 am. Tickets for adults range from 19 euros for one hour to 30 euros for four hours or 33 euros for an entire day. A complete rental package of skis or snowboard, boots, jacket, pants and gloves costs 40 euros (entry for one hour included), 45 euros (entry for four hours included) or 55 euros (entry for the entire day included). Ski classes available.
Madrid Xanadu shopping center, Carretera de Extramadura (N-5), Km 23.5 (13 mi/22 km southwest of Madrid) Arroyomolinos, Spain Phone: 90-236-1309 http://www.madridsnowzone.com
Spas and Health Clubs

Most top hotels in Madrid offer gyms for their patrons' use, and some will also allow nonguests to use their installations. Bodhidharma Gym This gym in the south of the city is a great place to keep flab and fat at bay should all those wine and tapa sessions begin to look like they're taking their toll. Facilities include sauna, exercise machines and aerobics classes. Open September-July Monday-Friday 8 am-11 pm; Saturday 9 am-2 pm and 6 pm-10 pm; Sunday 10 am-3 pm. 55 euros per month, but shorter-term rates can be negotiated.
Moratines 18 (Embajadores metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-517-2816 http://www.gimnasiosonline.com
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Medina Mayrit Decorated in Arabic style, Medina Mayrit offers Turkish, hammam, Hararet and Roman baths. Open daily 10 am-midnight. 36 euros-48 euros for bath and massage; special prices available Monday-Friday 10 am-4 pm (except holidays).
Atocha 14 (Tirso de Molina metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 902-333-334 http://www.medinamayrit.com
Swimming
Madrid is awash with year-round swimming pools. Some are private, but the best value are those that are municipally run. For a full list and rates of the latter, visit http://www.munimadrid.es. The hot summers make open-air pools particularly inviting, and there are plenty to choose from. Most central of these is Lago (Avenida del Angel, Casa de Campo), and of the others, La Elipa (Polideportivo Municipal de la Elipa, Calle Rodriguez de la Fuente, Moratalaz) is probably most attractive. Both have Olympic-size pools, a smaller pool, a children's paddle area, landscaped gardens and modest but affordable restaurants. They are open daily June to mid-September 11 am-9 pm. Admission 4.50 euros. Some hotels in Madrid allows nonguests to use their outdoor swimming pools. Admission varies by hotel.
Tennis & Racquet Sports

Council-run clay-surfaced tennis courts are available all over the city. Typical rates are about 6 euros per hour with an additional fee for equipment rental. For a list of locations, visit http://www.munimadrid.es.
Nightlife
Madrid is a nocturnal city: There's almost more to do in the early hours than in the daytime, and traffic jams at 4 am aren't unusual. Bars tend to shut down around 3 am on weekends, but some discos and clubs are open until after breakfast time. During summer months, terraza bars spring up throughout the city center and along busy Paseo de la Castellana and Paseo de Recoletos, especially close to Plazas de Colon and de Cibeles, and are open until early morning. Cafe theaters provide a variety of shows, and you can readily find live music, such as the traditional flamenco, along with jazz, blues, R&B, rock 'n' roll, punk rock and even salsa. After about 9 pm, a dressed-to-impress crowd flocks into the streets. Visit the cafes, tapas bars and terraces in Chueca or along the Cava Alta and the Cava Baja, just next to the Plaza Mayor. After dinner go for drinks anywhere along Calle Huertas and around Plaza de Santa Ana. Chueca has the highest concentration of gay and lesbian bars, though straight guests are also welcome. After-hour clubs are called "afters" in Madrid. They are illegal and change name and location all the time. If you must go, however, ask around in hip record stores. Smoking is no longer permitted in any indoor restaurant, bar, tavern, disco or pub, so, if you need a smoke, simply go out onto the pavement, indulge and then go back to mingle with the crowd inside.
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Bars, Taverns & Pubs

Aloque Considered by many to be the best wine bar in Madrid, this cozy Lavapies locale is a great spot to sample a wide variety of carefully-selected Spanish wines by the glass, of course including Aloque, a light red Clarete wine from the Valdepenas region. The kitchen serves up some original and tasty tapas. Try the croquetas or the raciones of smoked Astorga beef. Friendly and knowlegeable service Daily except Monday from 7 pm. Closed in August. Cerveceria Alemana Madrid's most traditional beer bar was opened in 1904 by a German and has seen illustrious guests. Ernest Hemingway wrote his novel For Whom the Bell Tolls (about the Spanish Civil War) at this place, which was very popular with toreros at the time. Its interior hasn't changed much ever since, but don't expect anything German there. You still find a lot of writers, musicians, actors and journalists there sampling the excellent tapas. Seats on the terrace with a great view of the Plaza are most popular. Daily except Tuesday 11 am-12:30 am (Saturday until 2 am). Closed in August. No credit cards. Cerveceria Santa Barbara Founded in 1815, this no-frills beer bar serves mostly suds and tapas (although the usual array of wines is also available). It's not the beer that sets this place apart, howeverit's the whitejacketed staff serving tapas. Options include peel-and-eat shrimp of all sizes, clams, crabs and oysters, just to name a few. The shrimp come highly recommended, as does a plate of the homemade potato chips. Daily from noon. Cock High ceilings, large windows and antique furniture deck this slightly overrated nightspot that Reina 16 (Gran Via metro station) opened in 1921 and at one time served as a brothel. Madrid's rich and famous flock there for Madrid, Spain 28004 the exclusive atmosphere and colorful clientele. The painter Francis Bacon, who died in Madrid, loved the place. Drink specialties are the Cuban mojito and the gin fizz. During the post-Civil War years, a tunnel is said to have linked it with the nearby Gran Via's Museo de Chicote bar so that Republican rebels could escape from Franco's nationalist forces. Nightly 7 pm-3 am, in summer 9 pm-4 am (closed on Sunday in July and August). Del Diego Often rated as Madrid's best cocktail bar, with a modern art-deco ambience. Bartenders do fabulous things with rum, gin and vodka and put on a real show. Do try the daiquiris. Popular as a movie location. Open Monday-Saturday 7 pm-3 am. Closed in August.
Reina 12 (Gran Via metro station) Madrid, Spain Plaza Santa Barbara 8 (Alonso Martinez metro station) Madrid, Spain Plaza Santa Ana 6 (Sevilla or Sol metro stations) Madrid, Spain Torrecilla del Leal 20 (Anton Martin metro station) Madrid, Spain
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Naturbier This is the only place in Madrid that brews and serves natural unfiltered beer: German-style lagers, real ale, highly fermented beer and so forth. It's located in an old monastery and extremely popular with locals and foreigners alike.
Plaza Santa Ana 9 (Sevilla or Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-360-0597 http://www.naturbier.com
Ramses This rather exclusive cocktail bar and bistro is the place to be seen. You can enjoy a flute of champagne or the cocktail of your choice with oysters on a bed of ice at the bar, or eat at the bistro. It is often the venue for private or corporate events, but if you are dressed to impress you might be able to join the crowd.
Plaza de la Independencia 4 (Retiro metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-435-1666 http://www.ramseslife.com
Taberna de Antonio Sanchez One of Madrid's oldest and most traditional tabernas, this cavelike bar has dark, mellow decor and a strong bullfight motif. It is named after the founder's son, who was killed by a bull. Virtually unchanged since its 1830 opening, it's as close to old Madrid as you'll find. Order draught Valdepenas wine and tasty tapasyou won't regret it.
Meson de Paredes 13 (Tirso de Molina metro station) Madrid, Spain
Monday-Saturday noon-4 pm and 8 pm-midnight, Sunday noon-4 pm. Closed in August. Most major credit cards. Viva Madrid The walls of this noisy bar next to Plaza Santa Ana are covered in authentic Spanish ceramic tiles. It used to be the old haunt of bullfighters and movie stars such as Ava Gardner and Orson Welles, and today is still one of the city's most popular places for a drink, especially among visitors. Very crowded at night, with lots of local flavor. Guests often spill out into the street with their cocktails and the crowd parties on outside long after the place closes. Try the mojitos. Daily from 1 pm.
Manuel Fernandez Gonzalez 7 (Sevilla metro station) Madrid, Spain 28014
Dance & Nightclubs

As you're wandering through the center after dinner, you may be handed flyers offering cheap drinks at many of the clubs in the Chueca, Malasana and Huertas areas. Things don't really liven up until well after midnight, especially at the weekends, so be prepared to stay out late. Alegoria With its plush and trendy decor, you feel like you're sitting in someone's elegant living room. Clientele tends to be over 40, and Friday is singles night. The music range defies classification. Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 pm-5 am. Cover 12 euros (includes one drink).
Villanueva 2 (Colon or Retiro metro station) Madrid, Spain 28001
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Ananda You could not find a more unlikely setting for this upscale nightclubit is right beside Madrid's Atocha train station complex. The place starts to heat up around 2 am, when the main bar becomes the site of a variety of dance shows. There is also a karaoke bar.
Ave. de la Ciudad de Barcelona 2 Madrid, Spain
The terrace is open daily May-October 11 pm-sunrise. A covered area is open October-May Thursday-Saturday 11 pm-sunrise. Cover 16 euros (includes one drink). Black & White A disco catering to a strictly gay clientele. Daily 8 pm-5:30 am (till 6 am on weekends).
Libertad 34 (Chueca metro station) Madrid, Spain 28004 Phone: 91-531-1141 http://www.discoblack-white.net
Cardamomo Flamenco bar offering different live shows with young up-and-coming gitano (gypsy) talents. Fiesta atmosphere, with lots of rumba acts as well. Lots of other clubs on the same street. Open daily except Monday 9 pm-3:30 am, but it's best on Wednesday and Sunday. Cover about 32 euros, depending on the show. Most major credit cards.
Echegaray 15 (Sevilla or Sol metro stations) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-369-0757 http://www.cardamomo.net
Cool Definitely cool club just a bit north of Chueca, where gays, straights, metrosexuals of all shades and those who simply can't make up their mind happily mix. Funky tunes, house, R&B and Caribbean rhythms from salsa to reggae dominate the scene. Friday and Saturday nights are heavily gay, while Thursday night sees a mixed crowd. Open Thursday-Saturday midnight-6 am, Sunday 9 pm-2 am. Cover charge 15 euros (including one drink). When a famous DJ is on the menu, expect to pay 30 euros, and a tough door policy at all times. Since the club rarely fills up before 2 am, this time is your best chance to charm your way past the fashionist doormen. Demode Getting there is a bit of an adventure since the place is located in a rather dubious street Ballesta7(GranVaorCallaometro populated with scantily clad professional girls trying to lead you astray. The sparsely lit club itself stations) is housed in a former brothel, and the decor with red sofas and tacky oil paintings still tells vivid Madrid, Spain tales of sleazier times. Demode is what Madrilenos call a preclub: a place where you go to party before you hit the discos around 3 am or so. It's certainly one of the hippest "underground" places, with a hedonistic loyal mixed gay and straight crowd dancing to electro and house music served up by some of the best DJs in town. Open Thursday-Saturday 11 pm-3:30 am.
Isabel la Catolica 6 (Santo Domingo or Callao metro stations) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-542-3439 http://www.fsmgroup.es
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El Juglar Some of the best DJs of Madrid take care of an excellent music program at this bohemian hangout known for its relaxed atmosphere. Great Latin jazz, funk, reggae and house rhythms. It also stages flamenco (Sunday nights), theater and cinema events. Daily 9:30 pm-3 am, but the real action doesn't begin until midnight. Free entry (except for special events).
Calle del Olmo 37 (Lavapies metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-528-4381 http://www.salajuglar.com
La Boca del Lobo Great and friendly club in the Huertas barrio for people older than 30. It plays a lot of old rock and acid jazz as well as modern house and R&B music. Lots of events and short movie festivals. Daily 10 pm-3 am. On Thursday, go after midnight. Cover 8 euros on weekends (includes one drink). No credit cards.
Echegaray 11 (Sol or Sevilla metro stations) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-429-7013 http://www.labocadellobo.com
Moma 56 This enormous disco also includes the Moma Bar with delicious Basque food and tapas, as well as the Kashira Asia restaurant. Have a drink in one of those comfy leather sofas before you start dancing the night away with Madrid's moneyed hip and cool people. Very flirty atmosphere, and the door is quite manageable if you just dress smart. Music is house and disco. Thursday-Sunday midnight-6 am. Bar and restaurant daily 10 pm-3 am. Entry 15 euros (includes one drink). Pacha This is Madrid's most popular club, and it has a variety of different areas. The Purgatory Bar and the Baroque Bar both exhibit art. The music ranges from disco and commercial pop to Spanish to international techno. Dress to impress, but don't be too impressed by all those wannabe celebrities and young pijos (offspring of rich parents) posing in the VIP area. Two sessions Wednesday-Saturday 7:30-11 pm (for those younger than 18) and midnight-5:30 am. Cover 12 euros-16 euros (including one drink). Sala Stella A classic of the Madrileno late-night weekend scene dating from the famed Movida era of the 1980s, Stella features a lavish mosaic styled ceiling, chic clientele and an eclectic blend of electro and house sounds played by the smoothest DJs in town. Very chic and popular with a blend of young, hip, gay and downright cool customers, with an atmosphere straight out of an Almodovar movie. Thursday-Saturday midnight-6 am.
Arlaban 7 (Sevilla metro station) Madrid, Spain Barcelo 11 (Tribunal metro station) Madrid, Spain 28004 Phone: 91-447-0128 http://www.pacha-madrid.com Jose Abascal 56 (Gregorio Maranon metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-399-0900 (Moma 56 bar), 91-395-2054 (Kashira restaurant) http://www.moma56.com
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Teatro Joy Eslava Also known as Joy Madrid, this disco is housed in a converted 19th-century theater with six bars on three floors. It occasionally offers concerts and other shows. It's a hot spot that attracts a lively crowd. On leaving the disco, try the chocolate con churros at the Chocolateria San Gines just around the corner. Open nightly year-round. There are two sessions: 6-10 pm (mostly for those younger than 18) and 11:30 pm-6 am. Cover 12 euros-15 euros (includes one drink), depending on the time and day of the week.
Arenal 11 (Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain 28013 Phone: 91-366-3733 http://www.joy-eslava.com
Live Music
Cafe Central Dizzy Gillespie named one of his songs after this beautiful cafe. The best musicians play in winter. In the afternoon, it's an elegant art-deco cafe that serves excellent cakes. Open daily noon-2:30 am (until 3:30 am Friday and Saturday). Concerts at 10 pm. Cover 5 euros-16 euros, depending on the act. Most major credit cards.
Plaza del Angel 10 (Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain 28014 Phone: 91-369-4143 http://www.cafecentralmadrid.com
Cafe la Palma Hot, hip, labyrinthic and unpretentious Latin/Arabic meeting place in Malasana, where twentyand thirtysomethings dance salsa until the early morning and chill out in on comfy floor pillows with a stiff mojito or daiquiri listening to Asian sounds. Great atmosphere and lots of fun, but not for claustrophobic souls. Upstart Cuban groups perform Thursday-Saturday. Open Sunday-Thursday 5 pm-3 am, Friday and Saturday till 4 am. Admission free (minimum consumption applies) or 6 euros-8 euros when live groups are performing. No credit cards. Cafe Populart This is an old ceramics store that hosts concerts of blues, soul, jazz, salsa, Afro and Brazilian music. During live concerts, drinks cost more. The best view is from the bar, not from the comfy chairs that fill up early. Daily 6 pm-2:30 am. Shows at 10:30 pm and midnight. No credit cards.
Huertas 22 (Anton Martin metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-429-8407 http://www.populart.es Palma 62 (Noviciado metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-522-5031 http://www.cafelapalma.com
Clamores Located in the Chamberi district, this spacious but smoky jazz club features live performers from all over the world, including African and Latin American artists. Expect lots of jazz, tango, bossa, samba and folk music. Occasional flamenco shows. Late-night jam sessions on Friday and Saturday nights. No live acts on Sunday and Monday nights. Open daily from 7 pm. Cover varies by act; usually 15 euros.
Albuquerque 14 (Bilbao metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-445-7938 http://www.salaclamores.com
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El Berlin Jazz Cafe This is one of Madrid's best jazz venues where international celebrities drop in as well. You can eat at its restaurant, which serves burgers and pasta named after international jazz legends noon-7 pm. Starting at 9 pm, you can listen to the best local talents (gigs performed by the Santiago de la Muela Jazz Orchestra are always worth attending). And after 2 am you can move down to Oba-Oba in the basement and enjoy some Brazilian dancing. Open daily except Monday noon-4 am, till 5:30 am on Friday and Saturday. Cover charge 5 euros. Most major credit cards. El Perro (de la Parte Atras del Coche) This hot spot is a magnet for artists, designers and bohemian types, who are attracted to the kitsch decor. The full name of the bar translates as "the dog from the rear of the car," a reference to the bobble-head dogs in rear-view windows. Classic rock 'n' roll and rockabilly music encourage the patrons to wear retro clothing. Wednesday-Sunday 10 pm-3:30 am. Honky Tonk This popular live music venue (named after a song by the Rolling Stones) in the Chamberi district offers several choices: Have a drink, enjoy an art or photography exhibit, listen to live local country, blues and rock acts, or dine in the trendy restaurant. Stand-up comedians also perform there. For an unobstructed view, arrive early. Daily 9:30 pm-5 am (till 5:30 am Friday and Saturday). Free entrance before 3 am, 10 euros after. La Fidula Go there to listen to jazz, blues, soul and occasional classical music. Drinks are less pricey than in most other music venues.
Huertas 57 (Anton Martin metro station) Madrid, Spain 28014 Covarrubias 24 (Alonso Martinez metro station) Madrid, Spain 28010 Phone: 91-445-6886 http://www.clubhonky.com Puebla 15 (Callao metro station) Madrid, Spain Jacometrezo 4 (Callao or Santo Domingo metro stations) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-521-5752 http://www.cafeberlin.es
Open Thursday-Sunday 8 pm-3:30 am. Performances Thursday-Saturday at 11 pm and 1 am. Live performances September to mid-June; videos of operas can be seen at other times. Cover 6 euros for one show, 9 euros for two shows. Most major credit cards. La Negra Tomasa This is the place to enjoy all things Cuban in Madrid. Music is strictly son, salsa and merengue. Of course, it serves great mojitos and daiquiris as well, and you can try Cuban dishes such as fritura de malanga. Monday-Thursday 1:30 pm-3:30 am, Friday and Saturday 1:30 pm-5 am. Cover 8 euros-10 euros. La Via Lactea Famous during the Movida Madrilena (the cultural movement in the 1980s following Gen. Francisco Franco's death), this Malasana place is now a home for independent music and hiphop. It draws a young crowd. Be sure to note the posters as you enterin addition to announcing new groups, vintage placards celebrate The Who, the Rolling Stones and the Ramones. It gets very busy on weekends. Monday-Thursday 9 pm-3:30 am, Friday and Saturday 9 pm-4:30 am.
Velarde 18 (Tribunal metro station) Madrid, Spain 28004 Phone: 91-446-7581 http://www.lavialactea.net Cadiz 9 (Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-523-5830 http://www.lanegratomasa.es
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Oba-Oba For live Brazilian music in one of Madrid's most energetic clubs, this is the place to go. Most patrons are Brazilians, so be ready to samba. Fabulous caipirinhas, of course. Nightly 11 pm-5:30 am. 10 euros cover.
Jacometrezo 4 (Callao or Santo Domingo metro station) Madrid, Spain http://No phone
Siroco This is one of the better places to catch some of the best local and national pop, rock and indie groups. The late-night DJ sessions are also popular. Open Thursday-Saturday from 9:30 or 10 pm-5:30 am. Cover is generally 6 euros-12 euros.
San Dimas 3 (San Bernardo or Noviciado metro stations) Madrid, Spain 28015 Phone: 91-593-3070 http://www.siroco.es
Other Options
Flamenco is an internationally known generic term that embraces the traditional, gypsylike Spanish music and dance performed both individually and in unison by male and/or female dancers. Singers and musicians may accompany dancers or perform individually. Flamenco is a very energetic and enthusiastic display of raw emotions, but it's best to try to control your natural instinct to join in with the rhythmic hand clapping. There are a number of excellent venues where visitors can enjoy good flamenco in Madrid. Cafe de Chinitas The most exclusive flamenco venue in Madrid, Cafe de Chinitas offers a different show every month. You can dine there before the show: the locals often don't, but former U.S. President Bill Clinton has. Nightly from 8; shows at 8:30 and 10:30 pm. Dinner and show from 75 euros, drink and show 35 euros. Candela If you want to catch spontaneously performed flamenco, pay a visit to the dark and slightly intimidating Candela bar. On rare occasions, you may be lucky enough to witness an improvised performance. (Do not clap your hands when it happens; just listen respectfully.) The walls are covered with photos of famous singers and dancers who have frequented the bar. Nightly from 10:30, but nothing happens until after 1 am. Casa Patas This is the best place in Madrid to enjoy flamenco in its most basic and emotional form. Dining is optional and nothing to write home about, but the bar tapas are a good value. Daily from 7:30 pm, shows begin at 10:30 pm. Cover 32 euros (includes one drink). Best to reserve two days in advance. Most major credit cards.
Canizares 10 (Anton Martin metro station) Madrid, Spain 28012 Phone: 91-369-0496 http://www.casapatas.com Olmo 2 (Tirso de Molina metro station) Madrid, Spain Torija 7 (Santo Domingo metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-547-1502 http://www.chinitas.com
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Corral de la Pacheca Flamenco performers who both sing and dance. Nightly from 9 pm. Show begins around 10:30 pm. One drink and show 32 euros; dinner and show 70 euros-95 euros. Most major credit cards.
Juan Ramon Jimenez 26 (Cuzco metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-353-0100 http://www.corraldelapacheca.com
Las Tablas Founded by Marisol Navarro and Antonia Moya, two young female flamenco dancers, this venue is not well-known to tourists, but it offers excellent quality. While the two dancers uphold the authentic flamenco-style during their own sessions, the cafe is also open to jazz, blues and soul music. Daily 7 pm-1 am, flamenco performance at 10 pm. One drink and show 25 euros-35 euros. Most major credit cards.
Plaza de Espana 9 (Plaza de Espana metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-542-0520 http://www.lastablasmadrid.com
Performing Arts
Madrid has impressive venues and well-regarded companies for various forms of music and dance. Teatro Real hosts operas staged by its resident company, as well as dance performances by national and international troupes. The Auditorio Nacional is home to Spain's Orquesta Nacional, as well as a top venue for international artists on tour. Zarzuela, a homegrown style of operetta often described as comic opera, is performed at various theaters in the city, particularly at Teatro de la Zarzuela. Madrid also has some outstanding dance companies, whose choreographers and dancers present an innovative approach to ballet, modern and contemporary dance, and flamenco. Theater (almost entirely in Spanish) is big in Madrid, too. English-speakers will be glad to know that many cinemas, particularly the ones bordering Plaza Espana and Tirso de Molina, show the original versions of films, which are usually in English (indicated by V.O. en ingles in listings). The Renoir chain, which has moviehouse complexes in the center as well as in Cuatro Caminos and near the Retiro, offers a particularly good choice of recent releases. Big-name touring pop and rock bands, and other performers usually appear at La Cubierta, Palacio Vistalegre or La Riviera, among others.
Dance
Ballet Nacional This company, which choreographs Spanish dances, often tours. It usually performs in November and December at Teatro Real.
Paseo de la Chopera 4 (Legazpi metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-517-9999 http://balletnacional.mcu.es
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Compania Nacional de Danza This acclaimed troupe, under the artistic direction of Herve Palito, performs what is described as neoclassical ballet as well as contemporary dance. Performances usually take place at Teatro Real and Teatro de la Zarzuela when the company is not touring.
Paseo de la Chopera 4 (Legazpi metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-354-5053 http://cndanza.mcu.es
Music
Orquesta Nacional de Espana Concerts are presented October-May in the Auditorio Nacional de Musica. It is rather difficult to obtain a ticket; most of the seats are sold by subscription. Concerts Friday and Saturday at 7:30 pm, Sunday at 11:30 am.
Principe de Vergara 146 (Cruz de Rayo or Prosperidad metro stations) Madrid, Spain 28002 Phone: 91-337-0140 http://ocne.mcu.es
Orquesta Sinfonica de RTVE This Spanish national radio and television orchestra, directed by Carlos Kalmar, performs in Teatro Monumental. October-March Thursday and Friday at 8 pm. 9 euros-22 euros.
Atocha 65 (Anton Martin metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-429-1281 or 90-248-8488 (for tickets) http://www.rtve.es
Opera
Teatro de la Zarzuela The theater was built in 1856 from a model based on La Scala in Milan. The resident zarzuela (Spanish operetta) company performs year-round. The theater also hosts a range of other performers. Box office open noon-8 pm. Tickets 12 euros-80 euros.
Jovellanos 4 (Banco de Espana or Sevilla metro stations) Madrid, Spain 28014 Phone: 91-524-5400 or 90-233-2211 (for tickets) http://teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es
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Teatro Real This venerable opera house's resident company performs October-July. Local and touring dance troupes also perform at Teatro Real. Opera season runs September-July. Tickets 12 euros-160 euros (or even higher for opening nights).
Plaza de Oriente (Opera metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-516-0660 or 90-224-4848 (for tickets) http://www.teatro-real.com
Ticket Brokers
You can obtain tickets easily enough for most events from the box office or from ticket brokers. The department store El Corte Ingles has a ticket service: Call 90-240-0222 for concerts, 90-226-2726 for theaters. You can also purchase tickets for theaters, cinemas and some sporting events by calling 90-222-1622 or visiting http://www.entradas.com or http://www.atrapalo.com/entradas. Tickets for opera or music concerts can be found online at http://www.ticktackticket.com.
Venues
Nuevo Teatro Alcala This venue hosts shows previously only seen on Broadway or in London. Cats, Cabaret and We Will Rock You have proved to be sellout successes and look as if they will be permanent fixtures. Ticket prices 20 euros-80 euros.
Jorge Juan 62 (Principe de Vergara metro) Madrid, Spain
Spectator Sports
Spain's national sport is undeniably futbol (soccer), and Madrid, which boasts three home teams, is no exception to this rule. The crowds at games can be massive, noisy and festive, depending on how the teams are faring. The season runs September-June. A close second in the hearts of Madrilenos and Spaniards is the corrida (bullfight). Though not without its opponents, bullfighting is a very popular and quintessentially Spanish spectacle. Annual golf and tennis tournaments and car races round out the sports calendar. All sports events are advertised in the daily press and in the weekly supplements offered by most daily newspapers.
Baseball
Though it's nowhere near as popular in Spain as other team sports such as soccer, baseball (beisbol) matches are held in summer in Madrid, usually between Spanish or Latin American teams, at the Polideportivo La Elipa in Moralataz. http://www.rfebeisbolsofbol.com.
Basketball
Basketball, or baloncesto, is big in Spain, and the Spanish national team has won several international titles in recent years. There are plenty of chances to see a game in Madrid. The two largest and best venues are the Palacio de Deportes in Madrid (Avenida Felipe II s/n; phone 91-444-9949; http://www.palaciodedeportes.com) and the covered Palacio Vistalegre (Utebo 1; phone 91-422-0781; http://www.palaciovistalegre.com) near the southerly suburb of Carabanchel, which seats 15,000. Both stadiums are also occasionally used for other activities, including rock concerts and bullfights.
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Bullfights
The bullfight may be in danger of extinction in some parts of Spainsuch as Catalunya, where the locals have never exactly been fullblooded enthusiasts of the sportbut not, and perhaps never, in Madrid. When faced with pleas to ban it by animal rights protesters in March 2010, President Esperanza Aguirre succeeded in having the spectacle declared of "touristic interest" in Madrid and thus protected almost indefinitely. Plaza de Toros Monumental Las Ventas Corridas (bullfights) are held March-October at 7 pm Sunday in Spain's largest bullring, Las Alcala 237 (Ventas metro station) Ventas. The neo-Mudejar-style bullring, seating 25,000 spectators, was inaugurated in 1931 Madrid, Spain and includes a Bullfighting Museum that is open daily except Monday. Apart from the regular season, there are several additional times when bullfights are held: on some Friday nights in Phone: 91-356-2200 July and August, from late April to 2 May and the two most important events in the bullfighting http://www.las-ventas.com annual calendar, the Feria de San Isidro, which is held mid-May to early June, and the Feria del Otono held during the last two weekends in October. There are also bullfights on 15 August and 12 October. You can purchase tickets at the ring's box office the Friday before the Sunday event (10 am-2 pm and 5-8 pm). Seats in the sun (sol) are less expensive than those in the shade (sombra). Expect to pay anything between 15 euros and 160 euros.
Horse Racing
Zarzuela Hipodromo Situated northwest of the city center near Puerta de Hierro's conglomeration of sports centers, this racetrack reopened in 2006 after being closed for several decades. Races are held year-round on Sunday 11:15 am-2 pm, and on Thursday evenings in summer as well. Doors open at 10 am. Seats are available for 9 euros, 12 euros or 30 euros.
Carretera de La Coruna A 6, Km 8 (take buses 654, 655 and 658 from Moncloa bus station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-740-0540 http://www.hipodromomadrid.com.
Soccer
Atletico de Madrid This team has the second-largest fan base in the city after Real Madrid, which means you might have a better chance of getting tickets to its matches (unless they are playing Real). Home games are played at Estadio Vicente Calderon. The Atletico de Madrid Musueum is also located at Paseo de los Melancolicos 69 (phone 91-365-0931 or 90-226-0403).
Paseo Virgen del Puerto 67 (Piramides or Marques de Vadillo metro stations) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-366-4707 http://www.clubatleticodemadrid.com
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Rayo Vallecano This team doesn't have the devoted following that Real Madrid or even Atletico de Madrid attracts, but the matches are worth seeing if you can't get tickets to the other games. The team's home turf is Estadio Teresa Rivero.
Arroyo del Olivar 49 (Portazgo metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-478-2253 http://www.rayovallecano.es
Real Madrid This is one of the most successful and popular soccer teams in the world, with many high-profile players. Madrilenos consider Real Madrid one of the city's greatest treasures, equal to, if not more important than, the Prado Museum. Needless to say, tickets for matches can be hard to come by. The team plays home games at Estadio Santiago Bernabeu. Tours of the stadium are available when no matches are being played. The Real Madrid Museum can be visited at Concha Espina 1 (phone 91-398-4300). Box office open Monday-Friday 6-9 pm. Tickets 16 euros-100 euros or more. Stadium tours 16 euros adults, 11 euros children younger than 14.
Paseo de la Castellana 104 (Santiago Bernabeu metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 90-229-1709 http://www.realmadrid.com
Shopping
There is definitely no shortage of stores, shopping centers, merchandise or eager shoppers in Madrid. Although prices have been rising throughout Spain over the past decade to a level on par with those of other European countries, shopping in Madrid is, on the whole, more affordable than in cities such as London or Paris. The shopping street of Serrano in Salamanca district, just east of Paseo de la Castellana, is full of expensive boutiques, home-decorating stores and stylish shops, including Chanel and Armani. You can also find exquisite leather goods at Loewe and shops by top Spanish designers such as Adolfo Dominguez and Roberto Verino. Many stores are found along the district's Calle Jose Ortega y Gasset and farther north in Paseo de la Habana. Meandering in and out of the different shops there is a pleasant way to spend some free time. The streets around Puerta del Sol form a more traditional (less exclusive) shopping mecca. The area is home to the city's largest department stores and specialty shops that have been in business since the 1800s. You'll find Spanish mantillas and flamenco dresses as you stroll down Calle Esparteros, and wonderful stores carrying fans, gloves and umbrellas are all around Plaza Mayor. Other streets worth seeking out are Calle Cruz and Carrera de San Jeronimo. A few blocks southeast of Puerta del Sol, the area around Plaza Santa Ana, including Calle del Prado and adjacent streets such as Calle Huertas, has a good assortment of antiques stores. Many of them specialize in fine wood furniture from the 1500s to the 1800s, as well as metal and leather collectible items. If you're looking for the latest styles or just a good deal on shoes, Chueca is the place to go. The zapateria (shoe store) mecca there is Calle Augusto Figueroa, a narrow street literally lined with small individual footwear stores. The area bounded by Gran Via, Calle Fuencarral and Calle Hortaleza has a high density of hip boutiques. Calle Barquillo, on its eastern flank, specializes in a wide variety of low-cost electronic goods. Shopping Hours: Generally Monday-Friday 9:30 am-1:30 or 2 pm and 5-8 or 8:30 pm, Saturday 9:30 am-1:30 or 2 pm. On Sunday, many bookstores and convenience stores are open, and major department stores are open the first Sunday of every month. Many department stores also stay open at lunchtime throughout the week. All the shops and stores around the Puerta del Sol are open every Sunday.
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Antique Stores
If you're in the market for something with a little history, head to Calle Ribera de Curtidores. The street, located in the heart of the Rastro market, has the largest concentration of antiques shops in Madrid. It's several blocks south of Plaza Mayor. Or try the Salamanca area in eastern Madrid, north of Retiro Park, where there are scores of antiques stores that will beckon to you, particularly along the streets of Jorge Juan, Claudio Coello, Velazquez and Lagasca. Mercado Puerta de Toledo This shopping center houses 14 antiques dealers selling furniture, ceramics and adornments. Open Tuesday-Saturday 10:30 am-9 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-2:30 pm.
Ronda Puerta de Toledo 1 (Puerta de Toledo metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-366-7200 http://www.centropuertadetoledo.com
Bookstores
Booksellers This is one of the best English-language bookstores in Madrid. Open Monday-Friday 9:30 am-2 pm and 5-8 pm, Saturday 10 am-2 pm.
Fernandez de la Hoz 40 (Gregorio Maranon metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-442-7959 http://www.booksellers.es
Bookworld This relative newcomer to the Madrid scene is fashionably located close to Salamanca district's Corte Ingles store. The immaculate, two-floored shop sells only English-language publications, many of them recent additions to the international bestseller lists. It also has a good selection of translations of modern Spanish works and a range of English teaching books and dictionaries. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm. Casa del Libro Located right in the middle of the central Gran Via, this multistory bookshop is the biggest and most comprehensive in town, with a compact, ground-floor English-language section. Open Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-9:30 pm, Sunday 11 am-9 pm.
Gran Via 29 (Gran Via metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-521-2113 or 902-026-402 http://www.casadellibro.com Goya 56 (Goya metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-578-2316 http://www.bookworldespana.com
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Cuesta de Moyano This is Madrid's equivalent to Paris's famed Seine-side bookstalls. Rows of colorful wooden Cuesta de Moyano (Atocha metro kiosks line the pedestrianized Cuesta de Moyano from the Jardin Botanico end of the Paseo station) del Prado to the southern edge of El Retiro park. At its far end stands a statue of 19th-century Madrid, Spain novelist Pio Baroja. The eclectic variety of secondhand books on display range 1 euro-100 euros in price and cover everything from torrid romances and classic paperbacks to in-depth tomes on regional history and philosophy. They're mostly in Spanish, but you may encounter the odd English-language bargain. FNAC This book, music and electronics department store has a sizable foreign-language collection, including titles in English. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-9:30 pm, Sunday noon-9:30 pm.
Preciados 28 (Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-595-6200 http://www.fnac.es
J&J J&J rivals Petra's as the best place to find a secondhand bargain. There's a small friendly cafe upstairs and a book-packed basement downstairs. Some English-language videos are also for sale, and quizzes and social evenings are regular features. Open Monday-Thursday noon-8 pm, Friday and Saturday noon-10 pm and Sunday 2-8 pm.
Calle Espiritu Santo 47 (Noviciado metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-521-8776 http://www.jandjbooksandcoffee.com
La Tienda Verde A great selection of books on ecology and nature, guidebooks, maps and mountaineering guides. Particularly helpful if you plan on doing some hiking in Spain. Open Monday-Friday 9:30 am-2 pm and 5-8:30 pm, Saturday 9:30 am-2 pm and 5-8 pm.
Maudes 23 (books) and 38 (maps) (Cuatro Caminos metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-535-3810 http://www.tiendaverde.es
Libreria Anticuaria Sanz Madrid has a host of atmospheric antique book shops and if you're looking for a genuine collector's item about the city or Spain in generalwritten, of course, in classical Castilian Spanishthen Francisco Sanz's bookshop is as good a representative of this genre as you'll find. Located in the heart of the elite 19th-century Salamanca district, it specializes in classic historical, biographical and poetic works, many of them beautifully bound. Expect to pay accordingly.
General Pardinas 3 (Goya metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-575-5953 http://www.libreriaanticuariasanz.com
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Mapas Perseo Madrid's best shop for travel books and maps. Of course, it has a great selection of books about Madrid and Spain, as well as many books in English. Open Monday-Friday 10 am-1:30 pm and 5-8 pm, Saturday 10 am-1:30 pm.
Fernandez de los Rios 95 (Moncloa metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-549-3107 http://www.mapasperseo.com
Pasajes A two-level international bookshop with an excellent selection, including the latest best sellers, children's books and videos. Books available in English, French, German and Italian. Open Monday-Friday 10 am-2 pm and Saturday 10 am-2 pm.
Calle Genova 3 (Alonso Martinez metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-310-1245 http://www.pasajeslibros.com
Petra's International Bookshop This is the place to pick up secondhand classics in a variety of languages. Owned and operated by Jenny (an American), this narrow, cavernous store, with its tunnellike array of separate tiny alcoves, specializes in inexpensive secondhand English, French, German and other foreign-language books. Open Monday-Saturday 11 am-9 pm.
Campomanes 13 (Opera metro station) Madrid, Spain
Department Stores
El Corte Ingles This is Madrid's largest and most comprehensive department store, with several locations in the city. Most stores have large supermarkets, patronized heavily by tourists. The location near Puerta del Sol is convenient to the city center. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-10 pm. Some stores are open on Sunday noon-8 pm.
Preciados 3 (Callao or Sol metro stations) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-418-8800 http://www.elcorteingles.es
Factory Outlets
Las Rozas Village This outlet shopping area is a 40-minute bus ride (buses 625, 628 or 629) from the Moncloa terminus. An array of first-name boutiques offers excellent bargains in a chic atmosphere. It's a favorite with upscale shoppers, who often make a day of it and enjoy lunch there, too. Daily 10 am-9 pm (Saturday until 10 pm).
Juan Ramon Jimenez 3, Las Rozas Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-640-4900 http://www.lasrozasvillage.com
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Galleries
You'll find a high concentration of art galleries in Salamanca (along the streets of Serrano, Jorge Juan and Claudio Coello), in Chueca (Calle Barquillo), Chamberi (especially in Calle Orfila) or around Centro de Arte Reina Sofia. Estiarte This gallery handles some of the best graphic art in the city. Open Monday-Friday 10:30 am-2 pm and 4:30-8:30 pm, Saturday 10 am-2 pm and 5-9 pm.
Almagro 44 (Ruben Dario metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-308-1569 http://www.estiarte.com
Galeria Juana de Aizpuru There is a collection of mostly modern and avant-garde art by Spanish and international artists such as Aitor Lara, Albert Oehlen and Rui Chafes at this Chueca gallery. Open Monday 4:30-8:30 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 10:30 am-2 pm and 4:30-8:30 pm. Closed in August.
Barquillo 44 (Colon or Chueca metro station) Madrid, Spain 28004 Phone: 91-310-5561 http://www.juanadeaizpuru.com
Galeria Soledad Lorenzo This Chamberi gallery showcases the very best Spanish modern painters, including Miguel Barcelo. Open Monday 4:30-8:30 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-2 pm and 4:30-8:30 pm (closed in the evening mid-June to mid-September).
Orfila 5 (Alonso Martinez or Colon metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-308-2887 http://www.soledadlorenzo.com
Guillermo de Osma This charming first-floor gallery in Salamanca specializes in the work of early- and mid-20thcentury avant-garde artists such as Kandinsky. Open Monday-Friday 10 am-2 pm and 4:30-8:30 pm, Saturday noon-2 pm.
Claudio Coello, No. 4, First Floor (Retiro metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-435-5936 http://www.guillermodeosma.com
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Marlborough A topflight gallery of international importance adjoining Soledad Lorenzo, Marlborough has shown such modern artists as Francis Bacon and Henry Moore. Open Monday 4:30-8:30 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 10:30 am-2 pm and 4:30-8 pm. Closed in August.
Orfila 5 (Alonso Martinez or Colon metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-319-1414 http://www.galeriamarlborough.com
Oliva Arauna This small Chueca district gallery features work by leading Spanish sculptors and photographers. Open September-June Monday-Saturday 10:30 am-2 pm and 4:30-8:30 pm, July 10:30 am-2 pm. Closed during the month of August.
Calle Barquillo 29 (Chueca metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-435-1808 http://www.olivarauna.com
Markets
El Rastro Madrid's popular flea market, El Rastro, is five centuries old and comparable to Portobello in Ribera de Curtidores s/n (La Latina London. It's a delight for shoppers, but watch out for pickpockets. You'll find everything from metro station) paintings, birds and antiques to secondhand furniture, clothes, wicker, music, books and crafts. Madrid, Spain Most selling takes place on Sunday and holiday mornings, when the streets are lined with temporary stalls, but there are many offerings on Saturday as well, and the place is not as http://www.elrastro.org crowded then. You can bargain at El Rastro, but don't expect huge savings. When you tire, seek out one of the famed tapas bars in the area. The market extends across a few streets in the southwestern sector of El Centro, in a triangle formed by the Basilica de San Isidro, Puerta de Toledo and Glorieta de Embajadores. Avoid the rush by getting there just before it opens. Sunday 9 am-3 pm. Mercado de la Paz The most upscale market in Madrid is located in Barrio de Salamanca. In addition to a wide array of high-quality food stalls, practical items, from shoelaces to pocketknives, are also available there. Open Monday-Friday 9 am-2:30 pm and 5-8:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-3 pm.
Ayala 28 (Serrano metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-435-0743 http://www.mercadodelapaz.com
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Mercado de San Anton This recently reopened market in the center of Chueca houses stalls with a wide variety of highquality gourmet foods, and also has a popular rooftop lounge bar and restaurant area (http://www.lacocinadesananton.com). The novelty of this market is that you can chose your products at the different stalls, tell the storekeeper that you would like it cooked in the "cocina de San Anton," and it will be prepared to your liking in the restaurant on the third floorbut make sure you've booked a table first. Market open Monday-Saturday 10 am-10 pm. Rooftop lounge and restaurant daily 10 ammidnight, with extended hours Friday and Saturday until 1:30 am. Most major credit cards. Mercado de San Miguel This recently refurbished market is housed in a beautiful wrought-iron structure built in the late 1800s and early 1900s. It offers a wide selection of quality foods, including regional fruits and vegetables, meats, fresh fish, olive oils and a variety of organic products, but is also a favorite place to get a drink and some tapas. You buy the tapas of your choice at one of the dozen or so gourmet stores inside the market, chose your drink at one of the many bars and then grab a table (if you're lucky) somewhere in the center and simply soak up the atmosphere. Daily 10 am-midnight, Thursday-Saturday until 2 am. Most major credit cards.
Plaza de San Miguel (next to the Plaza Mayor; Sol and Opera metro stations) Madrid, Spain http://www.mercadodesanmiguel.es Augusto Figueroa 24 (Chueca or Gran Via metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-521-0966 http://www.mercadosananton.com
Shopping Areas
ABC Serrano This five-story mall with Moorish-style decor is set in a building once occupied by the longstanding conservative ABC newspaper. It is stylish and chic, as befits its Salamanca location beside the Castellana. There, you'll find jewelry and fashion shops as well as sporting goods and electronics stores. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 pm, first Sunday of the month noon-8 pm.
Paseo de la Castellana 64 (Ruben Dario metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-577-5031 http://www.abcserrano.com
Madrid Xanadu This large shopping and leisure center has more than 200 shops, including El Corte Ingles and HiperCor. There are also restaurants, bars and a 15-screen cinema. A big highlight is the Parque de Nieve, an indoor ski slope. Stores are open daily 10 am-10 pm. Leisure areas are open Sunday-Thursday 10 am-2 am, Friday and Saturday 10 am-4 am.
Carretera de Extramadura (N-5), Km 23.5 (13 mi/22 km southwest of Madrid; take the 528 and 534 buses from Principe Pio Bus Station) Arroyomolinos, Spain http://www.madridxanadu.com
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El Centro Comercial Madrid 2 This megamall, better known as La Vaguada, is among the biggest of its kind in Madrid. It includes an El Corte Ingles department store and a wide variety of other shops. Monday-Saturday and first Sunday of every month 10 am-10 pm (most shops, except for the department stores, close at 8:30 pm; on Sunday, many shops keep shorter hours).
Monforte de Lemos 36 (Barrio del Pilar metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-730-0492 http://www.enlavaguada.com
Moda Shopping This centrally located mall includes more than 50 shops: exclusive boutiques, florists, stationers, hairdressers, restaurants and an art gallery. Open Monday-Saturday 8 am-10 pm, first Sunday of every month 11 am-10 pm (some shops open at noon).
Ave. General Peron 38-40 (at the corner of Paseo de la Castellana 95; Santiago Bernabeu metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-581-1525 http://www.modashopping.com
Specialty Stores
Adolfo Dominguez This shop's classic designs include fashion for men and women, as well as home, bridal, jewelry and fragrances. The tones are subdued and the lines are classic, but not everything is conservative as the Galician designer has put out a very wearable (and affordable) "young line" as well. Several locations throughout the city. Open Monday-Saturday 10:15 am-8:30 pm. Agatha Ruiz de la Prada There's no mistaking the bright floral patterns of de la Prada for those in the know. Although her colorful designs may prove too daring for some, they are popular among Madrid's best-dressed young crowd, and this expensive, chic boutique has a wide selection of clothes and accessories for adults, as well. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-8:30 pm. Amaya Arzuaga The internationally renowned Spanish designer is known for her extravagant, sexy creations. Her fashion looks just as elegant-punky as her hungry-looking models. Great for hitting any hip underground club in the world. Good knitwear, too. Open Monday-Saturday 10:30 am-8:30 pm, earlier closing times in July and August.
Lagasca 50 (Serrano or Velazquez metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-426-2815 http://www.amayaarzuaga.com Serrano 27 (Retiro metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-319-0501 http://www.agatharuizdelaprada.com Serrano 5 (Retiro metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-577-4744 http://www.adolfodominguezshop.com
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Antigua Casa Talavera Only hand-picked traditional ceramicsplates, jugs, tilesfrom the best artisan families of Talavera, Toledo, Valencia, Sevilla, Granada and Puente del Arzobispo make it into this shop. Worth a visit even if you don't plan on buying. Monday-Friday 10 am-1:30 pm and 5-8 pm, Saturday until 1:30 pm. Camper The Spaniards love this designer's affordable shoes, which look like U.S. baseball or golf shoes. For hot days, the casual sandals are preferred. If in doubt, opt for the leather moccasins. Several stores throughout the city. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8:30 pm.
Gran Via 54 Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-547-5223 http://www.camper.com Isabel la Catolica, 2 (Santo Domingo metro station) Madrid, Spain
Casa de Diego Although cheaper versions can now be found in most souvenir shops, Casa de Diego has been selling elegant paraguas (umbrellas), abanicos (fans), gentlemens' walking sticks, and ladies' delicate mantillas and hair combs since 1858. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8:30 pm.
Puerta del Sol (Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-522-6643 http://www.casadediego.net
Casa Mira This wonderful old-fashioned shop is as sweet as it gets. Since 1842, it has sold an impressive Carrera de San Jeronimo 30 (Sol or variety of homemade turrones (nougats) made of almonds and honey. Turron de Alicante is Sevilla metro stations) hard, turron de Jijona soft, but also try yema de nueces made with egg yolk and walnuts, turron Madrid, Spain de chocolate or turron de fruta made with candy fruits. If turrones are too sweet for you, go for pan quemada, a delicious Spanish pastry. Everything is sold under the watchful eye of the Spanish king, whose portrait is displayed prominently, and who gets his Christmas turrones from Casa Mira as well, of course. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-2 pm, 5 pm-9 pm. Closed in July and August. Concha Garcia Great selection of contemporary Spanish and ethnic jewelry design, including pieces by Joaquin Berao, whose twisted silver bracelets, necklaces and earrings are even worn by the Spanish royals. Open Monday-Friday 10:30 am-8:30 pm, Saturday 10:30 am-2:30 pm and 5-8:30 pm.
Goya 38 (Velazquez metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-435-4936 http://www.concha-garcia.com
El Flamenco Vive The best selection of flamenco-related CDs and records, literature, fans, guitars, costumes and shoes. It also offers classes in flamenco guitar. A place for true aficionados. Monday-Saturday 10 am-2 pm and 5-9 pm.
Conde de Lemos 7 (Opera metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-547-3917 http://www.elflamencovive.es
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Ferpal Smoked Spanish ham is a famous delicacy, and Ferpal sells the very best quality. A kilogram of Iberico de Bellota from acorn-fed pata negra pigs will set you back more than 100 euros, but it's worth every cent. Serrano Ternel is less pricey, but still excellent. It also sells a variety of Spanish sausages, such as Salchichon de Jabugo or Cecina Leonesa. All ham is sold vacuumpacked or freshly sliced. If you feel unsure, try the ham raciones in the adjoining bar Las Tapas de Ferpal. Open Monday-Saturday 9:45 am-8:45 pm. Isolee Fashion, design, lifestyle: that's Isolee, a multiespacio some blocks from Gran Via. If you don't have the time and inclination to browse a hundred designer shops, go there. Check out the collections of famous Spanish designers such as Ailanto, Juan Antonio Lopez, Mireya Ruiz or Monica Garcia, as well as international labels, including Cacharel or Comme des Garcons. Monday-Saturday 11 am-9 pm, first Sunday of the month noon-8 pm.
Calle de las Infantas 19 (Sevilla, Gran Via or Chueca metro stations) Madrid, Spain Phone: 902-876-136 http://www.isolee.com Arenal 7 (Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-532-3899 http://www.ferpalmadrid.com
Jose Ramirez Tucked away in a tiny street off the Puerta del Sol is a guitar shop of world-class quality. Ramirez's handmade classical guitars have been used by the likes of Andres Segovia, Enrique de Melchan and Mark Knopfler. You can have a guitar shipped, but you have to place the order at the store. If you want to see these beautiful guitars being made, the workshop, at another location, is open to visitors Monday-Friday. The shop is open Monday-Friday 10 am-2 pm and 4:30-8 pm, Saturday 10:30 am-2 pm, closed Saturday afternoon in summer. Loewe Spain's renowned designer has always been popular for his exquisite leatherware, but since he hired Narciso Rodriguez, his haute couture is getting famous as well. Prices to match. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8:30 pm.
Serrano 26 (Serrano metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-577-6056 http://www.loewe.es Calle de la Paz 8 (Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-531-4229 http://www.guitarrasramirez.com
Reserva y Cata Great selection of Spanish quality wines at usually excellent prices. Tasting sessions and courses as well. Open Monday-Friday 11 am-2:30 pm, 5-9 pm, Saturday 11 am-2:30 pm.
Conde de Xiquena 13 (Chueca metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-319-0401 http://www.reservaycata.com
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Zara This hugely popular Spanish chain of stores offers quality fashion for men, women and children, accessories and home items at reasonable prices. There are more than 20 locations throughout the city. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-8:30 pm; the first Sunday of the month noon-8 pm.
Princesa 45 (Arguelles metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-541-0902 http://www.zara.com
Itinerary
Day Trips
To Toledo. Located 43 mi/70 km south of Madrid, Toledo is one of Spain's medieval showpieces and the city of El Greco. Toledo is a must-see for anyone who visits central Spain. As you enter the city at the main gate, make your first stop at the Patronato Municipal de Turismo (tourist office), open daily 10 am-6 pm at Plaza del Consistorio 1 (phone 92-525-4030; http://www.toledo-turismo.com). Be sure to pick up a map there, because Toledo is confusing to navigate unless you take the tourist bus or train. Nearby is the Museum of the Duchess of Lerma, with 20 paintings by El Greco. Other stops where you can learn about the famous painter include the El Greco House and Museum, where the painter's famed View of Toledo hangs, and the Museo de Santa Cruz, where 22 of his paintings are displayed. One of his most famous paintings, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, can be seen in Iglesia de Santo Tome. Toledo's cathedral with its 22 chapels is one of the largest in the Christian world. Its Gothic tower rises high above the city's skyline displaying elements of baroque and Mudejar architectural styles. Two former synagogues are also worth seeing: Sinagoga del Transito and Sinagoga de Santa Maria la Blanca. The Toledo Tourist Card offers different guided tours of Toledo. Prices start at 18 euros (adults) and are as much as 65 euros (adults) when they include the train fare to and from Madrid as well as the Toledo tourist bus. Available at Atocha train station. http://www.neoturismo.com. To Aranjuez. Many people see the town of Aranjuez in conjunction with Toledo, as it's in the same general direction, about 30 mi/46 km south of Madrid. Summer is the best time to visit Aranjuez's Palacio Real and its lush gardens. Inside, the palace evokes the early-19thcentury luxury at the summer residency of Carlos V. A guided tour will take you to the throne room, the porcelain room and the Museum of Court Dress. The Real Casa del Labrador, a pink-and-white neoclassical palacete (small palace) located in the surrounding gardens, is also well worth a look. A delightful way to visit Aranjuez is on the Trena de la Fresa, a vintage train from Madrid on which passengers are served baskets of strawberries en route by personnel in vintage costumes. The train runs Saturday, Sunday and holidays from late spring through early fall (except August). http://www.aranjuez.es. To San Lorenzo de El Escorial and the Valley of the Fallen. This monastery and palace complex about 30 mi/50 km northwest of Madrid was concocted by Felipe II and built in celebration of Spain's victory over French forces in 1557. He spent the last dozen years of his life there. The palace is enormous, with 16 patios, 88 fountains, 300 rooms, 1,500 doors and 2,600 windows. Also in the complex are the basilica, which is shaped like a Greek cross; a library of 40,000 rare books; museums; the monastery; and the Pantheon of the Kings, the marble sarcophagi representing kings who ruled Spain. http://www.sanlorenzoturismo.org. A little more than 5 mi/9 km north of El Escorial, accessible by the number 660 bus service from San Lorenzo, is the Valle de los Caidos (Valley of the Fallen), an elaborate memorial to nationalist casualties of the Spanish civil war (though some feel it's as much a monument to the forced laborers who died building it). In this beautiful valley, a huge basilica hewn out of the side of a mountain is topped with a massive stone cross. Inside the church are rich tapestries and statues. To Segovia and La Granja. Segovia's Alcazar, a stunning castle high up on the western edge of town, was the scene of some of the filming of the movie Camelot and is also said to have inspired the design for Disney World's high-spired fairy-tale palace. The castle is 100 ft/30 m high, built using blocks of stone and not a drop of mortar. Another must-see is the remarkable 2,000-year-old arched Roman Aqueduct, considered the finest Roman structure in Spain and a
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher masterpiece of engineering. (The aqueduct was in use until just a few decades ago.) Segovia also boasts Romanesque and Gothic churchesthe most outstanding being the imposing cathedral on Plaza Mayor. There's a scenic bus trip to Segovia that leaves from the Principe Pio bus station in Madrid. Segovia is 55 mi/88 km northwest of Madrid. La Granja, the former summer residence of Spanish kings located about 7 mi/11 km southeast of Segovia, is surrounded by beautiful gardens with tiered fountains. http://www.segovia.es. To Alcala de Henares. Located 22 mi/35 km northeast of Madrid and declared Patrimony of Humanity in 1998, this university citadel, which has been under Roman, Catholic and Arabic control at various times since the Middle Ages, was also birthplace to Cervantes and has a wealth of monuments worth visiting. These include the Magisterial Cathedral, magnificent university buildings, the Cervantes house-museum (built on the site where it's believed the writer was born), a recently refurbished parador (state-run hotel of historic origin), family palaces, monasteries, churches and more. Enjoy a walk along Calle Mayor, a wide colonnades road of medieval origin, or around the magnificent Cervantes square, with its monument to Cervantes and music kiosk. Catch the Tren de Cervantes in Atocha train station for a 30-minute trip that includes attendance by staff in vintage costume and a selection of local gastronomy, as well as a guided tour of the city's major monuments. http://www.alcalaturismo.com/Visitas/tren.html. To Siguenza. This medieval city lies 84 mi/135 km east of Madrid and is the land of El Cid Campeador and Don Quixote, two of Spain's most famous legends. It has an imposing castle converted into a parador (state run hotel), impressive cathedral, museum, main square and some university buildings. Enjoy the trip there on the medieval train, an attraction in itself, where troubadours will offer you sweet delicacies during your journey. You can also book a sightseeing flight or balloon ride at the local flying school to enjoy a bird's-eye view of the hills and spectacular gorges of this part of the country. http://www.siguenza.es.
Local Tours
The Patronato Municipal de Turismo (tourist office) offers many walking tours in Spanish and English focused on the history, monuments and leading figures of Madrid. Tickets can be purchased in the office at Plaza Mayor 27. Phone 91-588-2906. http://www.esmadrid.com. Local travel agencies also sell tickets for various sightseeing tours in and around Madrid. A number of private, English-language tours also exist in the city. For a unique experience, book a tour with retired history professor Stephen Drake-Jones, who has lived in Madrid for more than 35 years. He leads entertaining and informative walks of historic Madrid (on five different routes) that are interspersed with frequent stops at local taverns. Phone 60-914-3203. http://www.wellsoc.org. Madrid City Tour These red, open-top buses with hop-on, hop-off service follow two routes that highlight the city's historical, monumental and modern aspects (each route has a stop at Puerta del Sol). Departures are daily about every 15 minutes, and each route takes an average of 75 minutes. Operating times are daily 9:30 am-midnight in summer and daily 10 am-7 pm in winter. Day tickets, which can be purchased on the bus, are 20 euros adults, 9 euros children younger than 16.
There's also an information kiosk next to the Prado Museum on Calle Felipe IV (Banco de Espana or Atocha metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 902-024-758 http://www.madridcitytour.es
Ole Spain Tours Walk at a leisurely pace on one of this company's tours. Open Monday-Friday 9 am-2 pm and 3:30-8 pm.
Paseo Infanta Isabel 21 Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-551-5294 http://www.olespaintours.com
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Dining
Dining Overview
Madrid overflows with dining options, from sophisticated restaurants specializing in cocina alta (haute cuisine) to intimate tabernas and small eateries serving a full plate of Spain's regional specialties. International cuisines are also well-represented. Before lunch or dinner, Madrilenos like to consume tapassmall snacks attractively displayed on the bar or counter and eaten as appetizers. Tapas can be anything from a few olives or a Spanish omelette to a dish of calamari. The custom is to hop from one bar to another to sample each place's specialty. Old Madrid is thick with tapas bars, especially around Plaza Mayor, in the vicinity of Puerta del Sol (Calle de Tetuan) and a few blocks southeast, near Plaza de Santa Ana (Calle de la Victoria and Alvarez Gato). Dining hours run relatively late: 7-11 am for breakfast, 1-4 pm for lunch and 9 pm-midnight for dinner. Making reservations for lunch and dinner in most restaurants is a good idea, especially on weekends. Most central restaurants offer set-price menus at midday Monday-Friday for office workers and tourists, but evening menus are usually a la carte. Upscale restaurants require men to wear jackets and ties. A service charge is sometimes included on the bill, and this is indicated on the menu. Tipping is certainly well appreciated, although not obligatory, especially if you're not happy with the service. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than 15 euros; $$ = 15 euros-30 euros; $$$ = 31 euros-60 euros; and $$$$ = more than 60 euros.
Local & Regional

Alkalde Walk in facing the bar and head downstairs to find the restaurant. It specializes in Basque and international cuisine. The crema de centollo (crab soup) and fresh fish entrees are superb. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards.
Jorge Juan 10 (Serrano or Retiro metro stations) Madrid, Spain 28009 Phone: 91-576-3359 http://www.alkalderestaurante.com
Bazaar Operated by the owners of Finca de Susana and Ginger, this innovative eating spot is one of the most popular in Chueca thanks to its friendly staff, bright inviting decor and compact range of imaginative and well-prepared dishes. Try the beef cutlet with its parmesan and rocket salad, followed by the outrageously mouth-watering chocolatisimo dessert. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations not accepted. $$. Most major credit cards. Casa Labra Founded in 1860, Casa Labra is as much a historic site as a popular tapas bar. It has seen celebrities such as the poet Federico Garcia Lorca, and a plaque at the door says that in 1879 Spain's Socialist Party was founded there in clandestinity. At peak hours, the bar gets crowded and noisy, but it's well worth a visit. The bacalao (deep-fried cod) is a specialty, or try the excellent value croquetas tapas at the stand-up bar just inside the entrance. Try to arrive at 11 am or 6 pm, when the kitchen brings out fresh platters of food.
Tetuan 12 (Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-531-0081 http://www.casalabra.es Libertad 21 (Chueca metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-523-3905 http://www.restaurantbazaar.com
Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Open Sunday for tapas bar only. $$. Most major credit cards.
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Casa Lucio This popular restaurant and tapas bar is housed in a tavern that dates to the late 1800s. It's a Cava Baja 35 (La Latina metro station) place to mingle with politicians and local celebrities, and sightings of Penelope Cruz have been Madrid, Spain 28005 frequently reported. Other celebrity diners have included Pierce Brosnan, Will Smith and Phone: 91-365-3252 Tommy Lee Jones. Even the king has dropped in occasionally. Specializes in callos (tripe) and cocido (Castilian roasts), but also does a marvelous solomillo (beef) prepared in a coal-fired http://www.casalucio.es oven. Other popular dishes include huevos estrellados (fried eggs with french fries) but also try lechon (suckling pig) and jamon serrano. The salmorejo, a thick gazpacho with grated ham, is also a good choice. The selection of Spanish wines is impressive. For dessert, absolutely try the tarta de la casa made with vanilla cream and biscuit. Choose a table on the first floor if you are looking for a more intimate dining experience and an occasion to dress up a bit. Open Sunday-Friday for lunch and dinner; Saturday for dinner only. $$$. Most major credit cards. Casa Mingo Traditional and authentic Asturian sideria, which serves Madrid's best natural cider for just 5.30 euros per bottle. The bar (close to the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida, Goya's resting place) also has great tapas: Try chorizo (spicy sausage) in cider and the Asturian mold cheese Cabrales. In the main restaurant, with its high-raftered ceilings and wine barrels, the roast chicken is very popular. It's best to go before 1:30 pm or expect a huge queue as reservations are not accepted. In summer you can also eat on the rooftop terrace. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $. No credit cards. Casa Mundi This typical Madrileno restaurant in the Chamberi district is always full. The secret to its success lies in the food: simple cooking, full of flavor. Try the leg of lamb or the fish dishes such as baked sea bream. The wine list is limited, so it's best to stick to the Rioja, which is decent. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. El Molino de los Porches This authentic Castilian asador serves tasty grilled meats and fish. The cordero (lamb) is a good choice, as is the wild beef raised on the grassland plains of Andalusia. Located in a charming avenue beside the verdant Parque del Oeste, this spot is a popular hangout for bullfighters and their entourages. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards.
Paseo del Pintor Rosales 1 (Ventura Rodriguez metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-548-1336 http://www.asadorelmolino.com Donoso Cortes 14 (Quevedo metro station) Madrid, Spain Paseo de la Florida 34 (Principe Pio metro station) Madrid, Spain
El Pez Gordo The Big Fish serves some of the most delicious tapas in Madrid. This bar and restaurant is loud, but you will love the ensalada con escabeche de faisan (salad with pheasant in pickling brine), lacon (foreleg ham) and migas de Almeria (originally a dish for poor people made with bread crumbs). Tuesday-Saturday for dinner. $$.
Pez 6 (Noviciado or Callao metro station) Madrid, Spain
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Ginger Pleasant, unpretentious restaurant in the Barrio de Las Letras, run by the owners of La Finca de Susana and Bazaar. No reservations accepted, so arrive as near to opening time as possible to avoid the queues. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Most major credit cards.
Plaza de Angel 12 Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-369-1059 http://www.restauranteginger.com
La Bola Many locals swear that this restaurant close to the Spanish senate serves the best cocido, cooked traditionally in earthenware pots on a wood fire. Work up an appetite as portions are huge. Red wainscot and a white flare (the bola) are its hallmark decorations. Excellent Spanish wines. Downsides are that the service is snooty at times, and the place can be uncomfortably overrun by tourists. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Reservations recommended. $$$$$. No credit cards. La Chata This tapas bar and grill has a bullfighting theme, with pictures of matadors covering the walls and hams hanging from the ceiling. The decorative tiles are typical of an old Spanish tavern. Try the jamon de Jabugo (Serrano ham), frituras de pescado (sampling of fried fish) or the cochinillo (suckling pig). There's a sherry cellar in the basement.
Cava Baja 24 (La Latina metro station) Madrid, Spain 28005 La Bola 5 (Plaza de Espana, Opera or Santo Domingo metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-547-6930 http://www.labola.es
Open Wednesday for dinner only, Thursday-Monday for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. La Favorita Great little restaurant with an enclosed garden in a building dating back to the 1920s. Creative Navarrese cuisine, and the waiters will sing arias in the evening (they study classical opera). Try the solomillo (beef) with artichokes. Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. $$$. No credit cards.
Covarrubias 25 (Bilbao metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-448-3810 http://www.restaurante-lafavorita.com
La Finca de Susana Madrilenos tend to dine late, but this modern restaurant close to Puerta del Sol fills up at 8:30 pm. Unlike many other places in this area serving traditional fare, La Finca offers a delightful Mediterranean crossover cuisine with a strong Spanish accent at surprisingly low prices given the elegant setting. Try the Iberico pork fillet with soy sauce, codfish with cinnamon or caramelized duck confit with plums and turnips. The Timbaons dessert or turron ice cream with caramel cream should not be missed either. Run by the owners of Bazaar and Ginger.
Arlaban 4 (Sevilla or Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-369-3557 http://www.lafinca-restaurant.com
Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations not accepted. $$. Set lunch menus cost around 15 euros. Most major credit cards.
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La Sanabresa This is a truly excellent, economical restaurant. Though recently smartened up, it still offers a bargain-priced menu, and you get to rub shoulders with blue-collar workers and the colorful ethnic population of Madrid. Go for the conejo al ajillo (rabbit in garlic sauce), callos (tripes), pimientos rellenos (stuffed peppers) and the flan casero for dessert. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. No reservations. $. No credit cards.
Calle del Amor de Dios 12 (Anton Martin metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-429-0338 http://www.restaurantelasanabresa.com
Zalacain A national and international prizewinner that's considered among the best restaurants in Spain. The house specialty is bogavante (lobster) salad. Other outstanding dishes include salmonetes a las finas hierbas (red mullet with herbs) and manitas de cerdo rellenas de cordero (pig's feet stuffed with lamb). Fabulous wine cellar. Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. Closed August. Reservations a must. Strict coat and tie requirement. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Alvarez de Baena 4 (Gregorio Maranon metro station) Madrid, Spain 28006 Phone: 91-561-4840 http://www.restaurantezalacain.com
Cuisines
Asian
Kaiten Sushi Ginza Bar Sushi is the focus there, with a real rolling sushi bar (kaiten), but you'll also find excellent, albeit standard, Japanese favorites as well. Fish doesn't come fresher. It is conveniently located in front of the Palace Hotel and near several art galleries, including the Thyssen museum. Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Thai Gardens The lush vegetation and sounds of trickling water add to the ambience at this beautiful restaurant, which has become a Madrid landmark, although it has moved from its original location. The waitstaff wears traditional Thai dress. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Paseo de la Habana 3 (off Paseo la Castellana; Nuevos Ministerios metro station) Madrid, Spain 28001 Phone: 91-577-8884 http://www.thaigardensgroup.com Plaza de las Cortes 3 (Banco de Espana metro station) Madrid, Spain
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Fusion
El Cenador del Prado This very stylish restaurant is a favorite with politicians (the Spanish Parliament is just around the corner) and offers a menu that's a modern fusion of Mediterranean and Spanish dishes, with some Eastern influences. Try the potatoes fried in garlic, parsley and clam sauce. After your main entree, have one of the exceptional chocolate desserts and savor the pleasant atmosphere. Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. $$$. Most major credit cards. Iroco Minimalist, avant-garde decor surrounds dishes from a stylish, diverse menu, although the real attraction is the fashionable Salamanca clientele clad in expensive designer clothes waiting for the crown prince to make an appearance. You can have Asian spring rolls followed by more traditional fare. In summer, enjoy the lovely garden setting, where you might even spot a member of the royal family enjoying the ambience. Daily for lunch and dinner; Saturday, Sunday and holidays for brunch. $$$$. Most major credit cards. La Musa One of the truly hip and cool restaurants in Madrid, with an avant-garde decor and modern cuisine. A DJ takes care of the music. There is a second location at Manuela Malasana 18 (phone 91-448-7558). Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations not accepted. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards.
Costanilla de San Andres (La Latina metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-354-0255 http://www.lamusalatina.com Velazquez 18 (Velazquez metro station) Madrid, Spain Prado 4 (Sevilla metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-429-1561 http://www.elcenadordelprado.com
Lhardy Elegant and classic, this restaurant opened in 1839 and is one of the culinary landmarks of Madrid, particularly because it was the first restaurant to introduce French culinary techniques to Spain. The cocido madrileno is famous, albeit somewhat overpriced, but you will dine under chandeliers, surrounded by mirrored walls, antique furniture and period oil paintings. The pato silvestre al perfume de naranja (wild duck in perfumed orange sauce) really is to die for, and the soufle sorpresa is a fabulous dessert. Downstairs, a self-service bar offers its famous cup of consomme as well as sandwiches and croquettes. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. $$$. Most major credit cards. Nodo Serves a fusion of Japanese and Mediterranean fare in a lively, hip atmosphere. Try the sushi tempura washed down with some of the house sake. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards.
Velazquez 150 (Republica Argentina metro station) Madrid, Spain 28005 Phone: 91-564-4044 http://www.restaurantenodo.es Carrera de San Jeronimo 8 (Sevilla metro station) Madrid, Spain 28014 Phone: 91-521-3385 http://www.lhardy.com
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Italian
Alduccio Good pizza is hard to find in Spain, but this restaurant is an exception. It also specializes in a variety of pastas drizzled with rich sauces. The terrace is popular on summer evenings. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Ciao Madrid A lively and popular place, you'll find Milan-style decor of sleek, black furniture and mirrored walls. It specializes in homemade pasta, such as tagliatelle with wild mushrooms, but you can also find such authentic dishes as osso buco and veal scallopine. Order the tiramisu for dessert. There is a second location at Calle Apodaca 20 (phone 91-447-0036). Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards.
http://www.restciaomadrid.restaurantesok .com Argensola 7 (Alonso Martinez metro station) Madrid, Spain 28004 Phone: 91-308-2519 Ave. de Concha Espina 8 (Santiago Bernabeu metro station) Madrid, Spain 28036
Nabucco Probably the trendiest pizza joint in Madrid, this restaurant serves excellent pasta as well as other trattoria fare. House specialties are carpaccio and a wide choice of handmade raviolis. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards.
Hortaleza 108 (Alonso Martinez metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-310-0611 http://www.nabuccorestaurante.com
Pizzeria Maravillas This fantastic little place in the heart of Malasana serves possibly the best pizza in Madrid, right on the plaza. Don't expect cutlery. Closed when it's raining. Go early to get a seat. $. No credit cards.
Plaza Dos de Mayo 9 (Tribunal metro station) Madrid, Spain
Latin American
El Inti de Oro Great Peruvian food. Do not miss the seviche, a seafood salad with raw marinated fish, and wash it down with a pisco sour. The aji de gallina (guinea fowl or chicken with garlic and pecans) and the seco de cordero (pot-roasted lamb) are delicious as well. There is a second location at Calle Amor de Dios 9. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$.
Ventura de la Vega 12 (Sevilla or Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-429-6703 http://www.intideoro.com
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El Viajero A popular Latin American and international restaurant specializing in meat dishes, but there are some vegetarian offerings as well. Try to get a table on the roof, where you'll enjoy a spectacular view of the Latina area and the San Francisco el Grande church and convent, constructed in the 18th century to replace the medieval Franciscan monastery. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. $$$. Most major credit cards. La Vaca Argentina Red meat is the order of the day at this chain of Argentine restaurants, which have taken Madrid by storm. The chimichurri sauce is excellent, as are the empanadas. This branch is the most attractively located of the 14 in the city, as it is right on the edge of the Parque del Oeste. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Paseo del Pintor Rosales 52 (Arguelles metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-559-6605 http://www.lavacaargentina.net Plaza de la Cebada 11 (La Latina metro station) Madrid, Spain
Tocororo Located close to Plaza Santa Ana, this lively Cuban restaurant, with its old-Havana decor, provides an attractive range of Caribbean-style dishes. After a rum-based daiquiri or mojito, go for the hot lobster enchilada or seviche (marinated fish). You can also try ropa vieja (shredded meat served with black beans and rice). Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Calle del Prado 3 on the corner of Calle Echegaray (Sevilla or Anton Martin metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-369-4000 http://www.el-tocororo.com
Mediterranean
El Chaflan An olive tree under a crystal roof greets guests, and (through a glass wall) you can watch chef Juan Pablo Felipe and his team preparing simply delightful Spanish Mediterranean food in his kitchen. The risotto de hongos (risotto with mushrooms) and the lomo de buey al vino tinto (fillet steak in red wine) are to die for. Excellent desserts, outstanding Spanish cheeses and an impressive selection of classy wines. Tasting menu with different wines for 125 euros. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. La Broche This popular, shining white restaurant specializes in exquisitely prepared avant-garde Mediterranean food. Formerly run by Sergi Arola, one of Spain's most renowned chefs, who earned himself two Michelin stars, it's now in the equally able hands of new culinary star Angel Palacios, who has successfully retained its high rating. If you enjoy fish, don't miss the exquisite fresh red mullet with charcoal-grilled spring onions. Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner. Closed August. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Miguel Angel 29-31 (next to the Hotel Miguel Angel, Gregorio Maranon metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-399-3437 http://www.labroche.com At Hotel Aristo, Ave. de Pio XII 34 (Pio XII metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-350-6193 http://www.elchaflan.com
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Middle Eastern
Mosaiq With its brightly colored decor and delicious blend of Arabic-cum-Asian dishes, Mosaiq is one of Chamberi district's most exotic surprises. Run by the Viroomal brothers from India, it's renowned for its discreet yet friendly service. Exceptional menu offerings include tajine de pollo and highly spiced kafta (lamb) brochettes, while mouth-watering starters include the superb hummus and tabbouleh. End your meal with ultrasweet Arabic pastries and mint tea. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Caracas 21 (Alonso Martinez metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-308-4446 http://www.mosaiqrestaurante.com
Spanish
Casa de Valencia A favorite for well-dressed Spaniards visiting from other regions. The restaurant, true to its name, specializes in paella and other rice dishes served on the Valencian coast. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. $$$. Most major credit cards. La Giralda La Giralda specializes in the traditional food of Andalusia (southern Spain), served in an authentic atmosphere. Try the chipirones (fried baby squid), guisos (stews) and Serrano ham. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Maldonado 4 (one of five branches in the city; Nunez de Balboa metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-577-7762 http://www.restauranteslagiralda.com Paseo Pintor Rosales 58 (Arguelles metro station) Madrid, Spain 28008
Las Tortillas de Gabino The grandsons of Gabino are still making his famous tortillas (Spanish omelette). Every possible type of tortilla is made with pride. Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. $$. Most major credit cards. Sobrino de Botin Established in 1725, it appears in the Guinness World Records as the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the world. It was one of author Ernest Hemingway's favorites and is usually packed with tourists, although the king is said to drop in occasionally as well. Castilian specialties par excellence include cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) and cordero asado (roast lamb). The meat comes from the Segovia highlands reputed for the very best quality. For dessert try the tarta de la casa or flan caramel. A rambling, narrow staircase leads to three floorseach with something different to offer. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Cuchilleros 17 (La Latina or Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain 28005 Phone: 91-366-4217 or 91-366-3026 http://www.botin.es Rafael Calvo 20 (Ruben Dario metro station) Madrid, Spain
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Viridiana This is a gathering place for Madrid's beautiful people in the Retiro quarter, who feast on such Castilian cuisine delicacies as ox steak with truffles. The restaurant was named after a famous Bunuel movie by its cinematophile owner. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Closed August. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Juan de Mena 14 (Retiro metro station) Madrid, Spain 28014 Phone: 91-523-4478 http://www.restauranteviridiana.com
Vegetarian
El Estragon Excellent vegetarian Mediterranean food in the Barrio de los Austrias. Try the paella, the delightful crepes, the risotto verde with a huge variety of green vegetables or the canelones a la Rossini. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. La Isla del Tesoro Objects from all over the world adorn this popular cosmopolitan choice for vegetarians. The food is strictly organic and vegetarian. No animal fats are used. Every day, it offers a new vegetarian dish from a different country. Try the famous couscous on Friday. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards.
Manuela Malasana 3 (Bilbao metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-593-1440 http://www.isladeltesoro.net Plaza de la Paja 10 (La Latina metro station) Madrid, Spain
Breakfast & Brunch

Restaurante Goya Enjoy a luxurious Sunday brunch buffet in this restaurant in the Hotel Ritzfreshly squeezed orange juice, aromatic coffees and a menu that includes exquisite pastries as well as salads, cheeses, meats and fish. During summer months, brunch is served on a terrace overlooking the gardens. Open Sunday 1:30-4 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Plaza de la Lealtad 5 (Banco de Espana metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-701-6767 http://www.ritz.es
VIPs This classic Madrileno restaurant chain, with 40 locations sprinkled throughout the city in strategic placesincluding Plaza Neptuno, in front of the Prado Museum and Velazquez Street at the corner with Ortega y Gasset Streetoffers U.S.-style breakfasts (but don't expect maple syrup with your pancakes). Outlets also sell books, magazines and CDs. Many other kinds of food are available. Daily 9 am-3 am. $-$$. Most major credit cards.
Gran Via 43 (Gran Via metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-559-6457 http://www.clubvips.com
Cafes & Tearooms

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Tertulias (informal chats and discussions held regularly) were very important in Madrid from the beginning of the 20th century until the Spanish civil war. Two famous cafesgenuine Madrid institutionsstill survive from that era: Cafe Comercial and Cafe Gijon. Cafe Comercial Still one of Madrid's classic meeting places, this vintage cafe is a great place to rest after a long day of sightseeing. Its decor of pillars, huge mirrors and marble-top tables, virtually unchanged since it first opened its doors to the public in 1887, create just the right nostalgic atmosphere for a chat or contemplative read. You'll probably see more locals than tourists there. Internet terminals upstairs.
Glorieta de Bilbao 7 (Bilbao metro station) Madrid, Spain
Monday-Thursday 8 am-midnight, Friday and Saturday 8:30 am-2 am, Sunday 9 am-midnight. No credit cards. Cafe de Oriente Probably the most beautiful cafe in the Centro. In winter, local writers, actors and journalists enjoy the delicious hot chocolate in splendid belle epoque surroundings inside; in summer, tourists congregate on the terrace to admire the great views of the Palacio Real. Good Castilian wines. Pricey, but the views justify paying that little bit extra. Monday-Thursday 8:30 am-1:30 am, Friday and Saturday 8:30 am-2:30 am, Sunday 9 am-1:30 am. Most major credit cards. Cafe Gijon Cafe Gijon's decor has hardly changed in the past 50 years, and it's still frequented by writers, journalists and theater types. Outside by Paseo de la Castellana, the terrace is popular in summer and a great place for coffee, dessert and people-watching. Daily for lunch and dinner (till midnight during the week, till 2 am on weekends). $$. Most major credit cards.
Paseo de Recoletos 21 (Colon metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-521-5425 http://www.cafegijon.com Plaza de Oriente 2 (Opera metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-547-1564 http://www.cafedeoriente.es
Harina After a stroll around the Retiro park, sit at one of this cafe's pavement tables and people-watch, while you enjoy the homemade breads, cakes and pies.
Plaza de la Independencia 10 (Retiro metro station) Madrid, Spain
Living in London This delightful tea house is the perfect setting to enjoy a pot of tea accompanied by a wide range of cakes, in true British style. The gift shop offers a wide selection of tea-related items and goodies you can buy to take home.
Santa Engracia 4 (Alonso Martinez station) Madrid, Spain
Continental
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Jockey Smart dress is in order for this upscale Madrid locale. Jockey offers a seasonal menu of fine game and international cuisine. It rivals Zalacain for the top spot in the esteem of many of the city's restaurant critics, but its splendid formal atmosphere sometimes impresses more than the food. Very popular with politicians and diplomats. Daily for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Amador de los Rios 6 (Colon metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-310-0411 http://www.restaurantejockey.net
Late Night
Chocolateria San Gines This is a popular spot with the late-night crowd, especially those who spill out of Teatro Joy Eslava next door. Its odd hours satisfy Madrilenos' penchant for chocolate and churros on their way home from a night on the town. Open daily 9 am-7 am. $. No credit cards. L'Obrador This fun and eclectic eatery is located under the Segovia Bridge. Italian and French fares are on the menu, and the duck magret is the star attraction. Dishes are imaginative, and the set menus are reasonably priced Daily for dinner, open until 2 am. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Segovia 17 (La Latina metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-365-8412 http://www.lobrador.com.es Pasadizo de San Gines (an alleyway leading from Arenal; Sol metro station) Madrid, Spain
Negro de Anglona Formerly known as the Palacio de Anglona, this trendy restaurant has been refurbished with a cool black decor. The converted palace is located in the heart of Old Madrid. It offers a variety of eclectic Mediterranean-cum-Asian dishes from red tunny fish tataki to solomillitos del Palacio (sirloin steak). Private dining rooms are available. Open daily for dinner, Saturday and Sunday for lunch. $$. Most major credit cards.
Segovia 13 (La Latina metro station) Madrid, Spain
Seafood
La Trainera Vintage seafood locale in Salamanca district serving top-quality dishes prepared from fresh market produce. Pez espada (swordfish), langosta (lobster) and mero (monkfish) are all firstrate, though the highlight is probably the salpicon de mariscos (shellfish platter). Wash it down with a delicious white Bouza de Rei wine from northern Spain and leave some room for the tarta de Santiago, an almond cake. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Lagasca 60 (Serrano metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-576-8035 http://www.latrainera.es
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Restaurante Rafa Pleasant atmosphere, excellent service and top quality food, with a constantly changing seasonal menu. Try any of the tapas at the bar or enjoy a shellfish salad or one of the baked fish dishes in the restaurant area. Open daily for lunch, daily except Monday for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Ribeira do Mino Great Galician marisqueria, almost always filled to capacity. Go for the mariscada (seafood platter) and the merluza gallega (hake) or lenguado (sole), which probably were swimming in the Atlantic ocean the night before. Wash your food down with some Vino Ribeiro o Albarino. Daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Closed in August. Punctuality is important; if you're late, your reservation may be cancelled. Reservations recommended. $$$. No credit cards.
Santa Brigida 1 (Tribunal metro station) Madrid, Spain Phone: 91-521-9854 or 91-531-3393 http://www.marisqueriaribeira.aliste.info Narvaez 68 (Ibiza metro station) Madrid, Spain
Security
Etiquette
Spain has continued to make steady economic progress in recent decades and is a vital member of the European Union. Business travelers will find Madrid to be a modern and affluent city with plenty of rural charm in the countryside. AppointmentsYou may find it valuable to have a local intermediary who can assist in establishing appointments. Schedule meetings well in advance, and avoid the month of August and the weeks surrounding Christmas and New Year's. As a visitor, you should be punctual but anticipate that your hosts may be less prompt. Meetings often last longer than anticipated.
Personal IntroductionsHandshakes are the typical greeting for men and women. Kissing on both cheeks can also be a typical greeting for members of the opposite sex, even if you have just met. Allow the female colleague to take the lead if you are unsure. First names are generally accepted after an introduction, unless you are addressing an older man or woman, in which cases you should refer to men as "don," followed by his first name and women as "dona" followed by her first name.
NegotiatingBusiness is typically preceded by small talk and pleasantries. Negotiations can be a more extended process than in northern European countries. Companies tend to be hierarchical, so focus on those people of your equal rank or higher. At the same time, the opinion of everyone in the company is important. You are an outsider and must ingratiate yourself. Thus, expect many questions about your business, background and family. Intuition as much as objective fact is important in the Spaniards' impression of you, so remain warm and friendly in your demeanor. Anticipate that many of the people important to a decision may not be present in any given meeting. Business EntertainingLunch and dinner are the meals most commonly attended by business associates. Lunch is usually the more productive for deal-making, but the business discussions should be saved for the very end of the meal, during coffee. Know that dinner is usually served late9 or 10 pm. Spaniards often fill the gap between lunch and dinner by snacking on tapas (appetizers) at cafes and taverns. When you are going out with business associates, it is usual for the host to foot the bill. When out with friends, the bill is usually split evenly. Smaller amounts are often handled by one person. Showing generosity is appreciated.
Body LanguageConversations can take place at very close quarters, and polite conversational touching may be practiced. A considerable amount of gesticulating is not unusual.
Gift GivingIn business contexts, gifts are typically given at the conclusion of successful negotiations. Gifts should be opened and appreciated immediately. Appropriate personal gifts when visiting a home include flowers or chocolate, but avoid chrysanthemums, dahlias or 13 of anything. ConversationIf you don't speak Spanish, try to learn at least a few phrases well. Spanish culture is always a good topic, as is Spanish
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher literature if you are knowledgeable. Sports and travel are good topics. Do not criticize bullfighting should the topic arise. Be aware that, in many regards, Spain is still a country of regions: Many people will identify more strongly with their local area than with the country as a whole. Be prepared to answer questions about how things are done in your own country, as well.
Personal Safety
Theft of personal belongings, as well as fraudulent use of credit cards, is sadly not uncommon in Madrid. Pay close attention to your belongings at all times and never leave a bag unattended, especially on the seat next to you in a cafe or bar. Do not brandish expensive cameras or phones, and wear backpacks on your front. Professional pickpockets operate in busy cafes, bars and the metro, and muggings can occur at nighttime. Avoid walking around the area surrounding Retiro (Madrid's central park) at nightit has become a hot spot for muggings. Cars are often broken into, so never leave any valuables inside, especially in plain view. The city center is relatively safe during the day and at night. Madrilenos love to be out on the street, even in the early hours of the morninga cultural phenomenon that provides safety in numbers. However, tourists are usually considered easy prey. The city's red-light districts should be avoided, especially the Calle de la Luna area just north of the Gran Via and the road running just inside the southern edge of the Casa de Campo. For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Health
Tap water is safe to drink in Madrid, and sanitation levels are high, so food and drink should pose no risks. No vaccinations are required to enter Spain. Avoid walking in the scorching sun between noon and 3 pm in summer, and drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration. The quality of medical care is good, and you will be attended to in any emergency center or hospital, even if you don't have identification. In case of an emergency, dial 112. English is widely spoken at the private Anglo-American Medical Unit, Calle del Conde de Aranda 1, Retiro metro station. Phone 91-4351823 (Monday-Friday 9 am-8 pm, Saturday 10 am-1 pm). http://www.unidadmedica.com. The Hospital General Universitario Gregorio Maranon is one of Madrid's main hospitals. Doctor Esquerdo 46 (Sainz de Baranda metro station). Phone 91-586-8000. http://www.hggm.es. If you need a pharmacy after hours, call 010 or check the listing in any of the daily newspapers. Some major pharmacies never close, although they usually take turns staying open all night, and every pharmacy has a sign posted in the window with the address of the nearest drug store that is open all night. Your hotel's concierge or front-desk personnel should have this information as well. Farmacia Velazquez 70, Velazquez 70, is open 24 hours (Velazquez metro station, phone 91-575-6028; http://www.farmavelazquez.com). Farmacia Real Botica de la Reina Madre, Mayor 59, located in the center, is the oldest pharmacy in all Madrid (open daily 9 am-10 pm; Opera metro station). Phone 91-548-0014. For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
Disabled Advisory
Madrid is well-equipped with facilities for disabled travelers. You will find ramps and elevators in the majority of hotels, museums and department stores, and the Museo del Prado, the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia are wheelchair-friendly. Red buses marked bajo (low) are designed for wheelchair access, and newer metro lines have elevators for wheelchair access. Check out the updated metro maps available at http://www.metromadrid.es. Some taxi companies also offer special cars for easy access, and several hotels are now equipped with rooms adapted for the disabled. Europcar rents cars with hand controls (advance notice required). Radio-Telefono Taxi runs taxis for the disabled (phone 91-547-8200). You can also ask for a "eurotaxi" at any taxi company, and they will send one that is wheelchair-accessible.
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Facts
Dos & Don'ts
Do the bar crawl in Calle Argumosa with its great terraces, located right in Madrid's southern ethnic barrio of Lavapies. The atmosphere is friendly and prices are moderate. Don't buy CDs and DVDs on the black market. Vendors are everywhere (and they know how to run faster than police). Keep in mind that they hardly make any money but are victims of mafialike organizations that take most of the money. Do ignore the taxi driver soliciting you in the arrival hall of the airport. You will pay dearly for the privilege of not waiting your turn outside. Don't expect romance because someone greets you with kisses on your cheeks. It is about as common as shaking hands. Do be careful where you light up. Spain's antismoking law bans smoking in enclosed public spaces, which includes bars, restaurants, hotel lobbies, casinos, clubs, office buildings, open-decked tourist buses and airports. Don't trust green traffic lights. Madrilenos take them as hints that other cars and pedestrians may run red lights. Do visit the Egyptian Templo de Debod at dusk to enjoy the most gorgeous sunset Madrid has to offer. Do enjoy tea time in the lobby bar of the the outrageously luxurious Ritz Hotel. The atmosphere alone is worth the more than 30 euros spent on delicious teas and English sandwiches. Do spend a summer evening at one of Madrid's many roof-top bars.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: Canadian and U.S. citizens need a passport, proof of onward passage and sufficient funds. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure. Population: 5,762,000. Languages: Spanish, often referred to in Spain as Castellano. Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic). Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October. Voltage Requirements: 220 volts, though on rare occasions it's 125 volts. Many hotels have 110-volt North American-style outlets for electric razors. For other appliances, you'll need a transformer, unless there is a voltage switch. Spain's outlets use two-prong plugs. Telephone Codes: 34, country code; 91, city code;
Money
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Currency Exchange
The best way to change money is to use one of the ubiquitous ATMs. They dispense euros at competitive rates of exchange and are found at most banks. They accept most major bank and credit cards, provided you have a PIN, and most have instructions in English. Do not insert a credit card if the appropriate sign of your card is not displayed. If you have no PIN, you can receive cash advances with your credit card over the counter in many banks. If you're exchanging cash or traveler's checks (prefer denominations in euros), regular banks generally offer better rates and charge lower commissions than casas de cambio (exchange bureaus), though banks have more limited hours. Most banks are open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-2:30 pm. Few open on weekends. Most branches of El Corte Ingles, a major department store, exchange currency and offer competitive rates. Avoid money exchange kiosks as they invariably offer a poor rate. Many establishments will accept most credit cards; however, American Express is not a favorite, so make sure you have other options on hand.
Taxes
The IVA (value-added tax) ranges 4% (for basic necessities) to 18%, depending on the merchandise or service rendered (restaurants tend to apply 7%). Look for the tax-free shopping sticker on store entrancesmost large stores offer the service. Visitors who do not reside in the European Union are eligible for a refund of the tax on some merchandise purchases; you must spend more than 90 euros at the same store, one displaying a "tax-free" sticker. The seller should provide an IVA-refund form detailing the value, tax and nature of the purchase. You must have the form stamped by customs upon departure from Spain or the last E.U. country you visit on your trip. You can mail the paperwork in for your refund or receive an immediate refund at the Tax-Free Shopping refund window, commonly found in the departure area of the airport. You'll pay a service charge for the immediate refund, usually a percentage of the refund amount. Global Refund Spain SA, Manuel Tovar 1-4, 28034 Madrid. Phone 91-729-4380. http://www.globalrefund.com.
Tipping
A gratuity is sometimes included in restaurant bills, though it's common to give servers an additional tip, often just the spare change from the bill or whatever you have loose in your pocket. Tips are not obligatory, so any additional amount is appreciated, though not necessarily 10%15% of the billed amount. Taxi drivers will charge extra for trips to and from the airport, railway stations or transport terminus, and also for handling bags. Again, although not obligatory, a tip is appreciated.
Weather
Because of its geographical location in the middle of the country, Madrid is a very dry city and can be quite hot in summer but bitterly cold in winter. Winter temperatures hover around 50 F/10 C during the day but plunge below freezing at night. In summer, highs sometimes reach 104 F/40 C. The hottest months are July and August, but sunny weather continues well into October, when high temperatures range 71-80 F/22-27 C. Spring (April-May) is usually lovely. Rain is rare, and what little falls is most likely to come down in spring and fall (April, May, October and November). Unlike in nearby Avila and Segovia, on the other side of the protective Guadarrama mountain range, snow in the capital itself is very unusual, but it can happen.
What to Wear
Most visitors dress casually for sightseeing, especially in summer, when long shorts and short sleeves are common, even for Madrilenos. There are no restrictions on dress for entering museums, but show respect in your attire when entering churches. You'll want something a little dressier for dining in nice restaurants and stepping out to the clubs. Some discos and clubs will not allow entrance to clients wearing sneakers.
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher For business, suits are the order of the day for men, usually dark colors during the winter and lighter shades during the summer. Women can adopt their own dress code as long as their attire is stylish. Given the sometimes excessive use of air-conditioning in certain offices, meeting rooms, or even on public transport or in the cinema during summer months, it is always advisable for ladies to carry a scarf or light sweater with them. Nights are generally very warm in summer but sometimes can turn surprisingly cool, so take a light sweater even in the hottest months.
Communication
Telephone
When dialing a Madrid number, you must preface it with the city code, 91, regardless of whether you are calling from inside or outside the city. International calls should be prefixed with 34. Mobile phone numbers start with a 6. Public pay phones accept coins, phone cards issued by Telefonica (Spanish Telecom) and credit cards. The blue pay phones have clear instructions in English. You can also find pay phones in many bars and cafes, although they tend to cost more. You can buy Telefonica phone cards at post offices, tobacco shops (called estancos) and newsstands. International calls are cheapest at phone centers, called locutorios, which offer discounted international connections. Almost everyone in Madrid owns a mobile phone. If you have a tri-band or GSM 900/1800 mobile phone, you can use it in Spain. International roaming is available, but expensive. If your phone is not local, you are much better off with a prepaid SIM card from Telefonica's Movistar, Orange, Vodafone or Amena. Prices start at 20 euros, which include some phone time. You can then purchase more minutes in shops or buy cards available at estancos and newsstands. If you don't need a fancy phone, options with a locked phone and a prepaid SIM card can be had very cheaply. This usually works out better than renting a mobile phone.
Internet Access
Big-scale Internet cafes in the city are quickly disappearing largely because of the increasing availability of portable accessories such as BlackBerry phones that many travelers now own, and partly to the widespread presence of broadband and Wi-Fi access at hotels and cafes. The Centro de Turismo in the City Hall of Madrid on the Plaza Mayor offers free access for up to 15 minutes (enough to check e-mail). In cybercafes, prices are usually around 2 euros per hour. Cafe Comercial Madrid's most beautiful place to surf the Web. The Internet terminals are upstairs in an intimate alcove adjoining the upper, smaller salon. Monday-Thursday from 7:30 am, Friday and Saturday from 8:30 am, Sunday from 10 am (open till 2 am on weekends). Glorieta de Bilbao 7 (Bilbao metro station). Madrid, Spain.
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Work Center This chain of stores has fast Internet connections and access to scanners, high-quality printers and stationery. There are approximately a dozen outlets in Madrid. Open Monday-Friday 8 am-10 pm. Paseo de Castellana 49 (Cuzco metro station). Madrid, Spain. Phone 91-1217630. http://www.workcenter.es.

Oficina de Correos The post office's yellow mailboxes are all over the city, and you can purchase stamps at post offices or tobacconists. If you need to go to the post office, the central downtown branch is in the Palacio de Comunicaciones, or check with your hotel reception or front desk for the nearest branch. Open Monday-Saturday 8 am-9 pm, Sunday 9 am-1 pm. Plaza de Cibeles (Banco de Espana metro station). Madrid, Spain. Phone 902-197-197. http://www.correos.es.

The most important newspapers in Spain are El Pais, ABC, El Mundo and La Razon. A fifth paper, Publico, is also available but it enjoys a lower circulation than the others. All are daily morning publications. You'll find them at most newsstands in Madrid and, if you take the trouble, you can also check them out on the Internet. As and Marca, two football (soccer) tabloids seen in practically every bar, sell more copies than any of them. At some major metro stations, free daily publications such as ADN or QUE are handed out. These can also be found in some bars, cafes and other establishments. The International Herald Tribune includes an English supplement called El Pais. The Wall Street Journal, Financial Times and other English-language publications are available at the airport and at the main newsstands in downtown Madrid. The Friday edition of El Mundo includes a useful entertainment supplement for the week called Metropoli. A magazine covering the arts, called El Cultural, is also worthwhile even if your Spanish is limited. La Guia del Ocio (http://www.guiadelocio.com) is a local Spanish weekly magazine with information on restaurants, shopping, entertainment and leisure activities. It is published every Friday. In Madrid, a free monthly publication in English, includes articles, entertainment listings and classifieds. You can find it at tourist offices, some bookshops (such as Pasajes), bars and cinemas. http://www.in-madrid.com. It's also always a good idea to ask around in bars. The bartenders are a wealth of information and know about events that are not listed anywhere.
Transportation
Seeing Madrid by foot is easy because so many of the sights are found in the center of the city. For sites beyond downtown, public transportation, especially the metro, is quick and accessible. A car is more of an obstacle than an aid for sightseeing within the city. If you happen to have one, be aware that the traffic in the city center can get very congested, especially during rush hours (8-10 am and 6:30-8:30 pm), and there are certain restrictions in some areas, with considerable fines if you are not a local resident. GoCar (http://www.gocartours.es) and Segway tours (http://www.urbanmovil.com) are fun alternatives you may like to consider.
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Air
The Barajas Airport (MAD) is 9 mi/15 km northeast of the city on the Barcelona Highway (A2). The airport is the fourth-busiest hub in Europe, with shopping and dining options available in each of its four terminals. Traffic flow to and from the airport has improved, but allow at least 30 minutes' travel time under normal driving conditions. You can also purchase airline tickets, get your boarding pass and check your luggage at Nuevos Ministerios, and then take the metro directly to the airport. This service is offered daily 6:30 am-10:30 pm. For airport information, call 90-240-4704. http://www.aena.es. Connecting Transportation Best way: Unless you have a lot of luggage (which will necessitate a cab), take Madrid's metro system to and from the airport. The main entrance to the metro (Line 8) is under Terminal 2, but the metro extends to Terminal 4 as well. There's a direct line between the airport and the financial district at Nuevos Ministerios. Watch out for pickpockets. Trains on that line are fitted with luggage racks. A single ticket for the metro costs 2 euros, and trains run daily 6 am-1:30 am. http://www.metromadrid.es. Other options: City bus No. 200 runs to terminals 1,2 and 3 and bus No. 204 runs to terminal 4, both from the Avenida America terminus. Fare is about 1 euro, and exact change is required. The private minibus service AeroCITY is recommended for small groups. Fares range 8 euros-20 euros per person. It operates 24 hours and can be booked in advance by phone or online. Phone 91-747-7570. http://www.aerocity.com. If you need to connect from the airport to Atocha railway station to catch a high-speed AVE train to Barcelona, Valencia or Sevilla, take the linea express bus from terminals 1, 2 or 4 to Atocha terminus (stops in O'Donnell and Cibeles). Fare is 2 euros and the trip takes about 40 minutes, depending on traffic. Trains run 24 hours and leave every 15 minutes during the day and every 30 minutes at night. Taxis are available just outside the baggage claim area. Approximate cab fare to downtown runs about 28 euros-35 euros (50 euros from Terminal 4), including an airport surcharge of 7 euros added to the meter price. Each item of luggage handled will also incur in a small surcharge. Major rental car companies have booths at Barajas Airport, and most upscale hotels offer courtesy shuttles to and from the airport.
Bus
There are two estaciones de autobuses (bus stations) handling long-distance buses traveling to and from Madrid, and one smaller one operating bus services to nearer destinations. The principal one is Estacion Sur (Mendez Alvaro metro station). It is the hub for international destinations as well as for long-distance routes to all parts of the country, particularly to and from southern Spanish cities such as Granada and Malaga. Buses also serve Valencia and points mainly in the northeast of Spain. Avanzabus services to Castilian destinations such as Toledo, Salamanca, Zamora and Cuenca also run from there. http://www.avanzabus.com. At Avenida de America, ALSA Continental Auto has service to northern areas including Valladolid, Burgos, Leon, Oviedo, Santander, Pamplona and the Basque Country. It also has a frequent (but slow) bus service to Barcelona. http://www.alsa.es. From the smaller Principe Pio station, La Sepulvedana has buses to Segovia, La Granja palace, Avila and other nearby destinations west of Madrid. http://www.la sepulvedana.es.
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Car
Sitting in the center of Spain, Madrid is a major crossroads for vehicle traffic: Six major highways converge on the city, and all are connected by the M-30 and M-40 highways that encircle the city. Once you're in town, it may prove difficult to find parking on downtown streets, although many underground parking lots are available for a fee (look for blue signs with a P). Don't leave any valuables visible inside a parked car. Parking garages are legally responsible for any theft or damage done to your car, even though most post signs saying that they are not.
Public Transportation
Public transportation is an efficient way to cover ground in Madrid. We recommend a Metrobus ticket, good for 10 rides in the center (zone A) on either bus or metro, that costs 9 euros. Purchase them in metro stations or at tobacconists, newspaper stands and EMT (Municipal Transportation Company) bureaus. The EMT offices can also provide a handy pocket-sized map of the metro and bus routes. If you plan considerable metro and bus trips, buy a tourist travel passthe most practical and economical way of traveling around Madrid available at metro and train stations or the airport. They are valid for unlimited travel on all public transport (bus and metro) within Madrid. The pass for zone A (central Madrid) costs 6 euros per day, 10 euros for two days, 13 euros for three days, 19 euros for five days and 25 euros per week. The pass for zone T (covering the entire Madrid area up to 62 mi/100 km from the city center) costs 12 euros per day, 20 euros for two days, 25 euros for three days, 36 euros for five days and 50 euros per week. Children younger than age 11 get a 50% discount. http://www.ctm-madrid.es. Buses The 150 lines of the EMT bus system cover the whole city. Buses are painted red or blue, and a few carry advertising. They all have the number of the bus line and the first and last stop posted on the front. Bus stops are clearly marked with signposts showing the number and route of each bus that stops there. Bus schedules vary with each line, but they generally run 6 am-11:30 pm. A more limited, late-night serviceknown as nocturnos or buho (pronounced boo-oh, meaning "owl")operates on 20 lines. The buses run every half-hour midnight3 am and every hour 3-6 am. These night buses leave from Puerta del Sol and Plaza de Cibeles. A single bus ticket costs 1 euro and can be purchased on the bus. Exact change is not required, though it's helpful not to tender anything higher than a 5 euro note. Madrid, Spain. http://www.emtmadrid.es. Metro The subway system in Madrid is called the metro. The network has 12 lines, all easily identified by color. Bright, comfortable modern trains have replaced the older stock, and stations have been modernized in the past few years. The newest additions are the tren ligero services on which bright, shiny jet-age "trams" travel mainly on the surface to affluent (zone B) suburbs. The metro is the easiest, fastest and most inexpensive way to travel around the city. It operates 6 am-1:30 am. Trains run every three to five minutes during the day and every 10 to 15 minutes at night. A single ticket costs 1 euro for zone A stops (central) and 2 euros for zone A and B stops (includes trips to outer Madrid stations such as Arganda del Rey on line 9, Mostoles on Metrosur and Las Tablas, Aravaca and Boadilla del Monte on the above-mentioned tren ligero). The combined 10-in-1 metrobus ticket (9.30 euros) covers zone A stops plus trips on red and blue metro buses, while for zones A and B the 10-in-1 combined ticket costs 14.50 euros and also includes trips on the red and blue metro buses and green out-of-town buses. Buy tickets at the counter or from vending machines in the stations. http://www.metromadrid.es. Madrid, Spain. http://www.metromadrid.es.
Taxi
Taxis in Madrid are easy to identify: white cars with a red diagonal band on the door. They can be hailed in the street. The taxi is available when the green light on the top is lit or when a sign with the word libre (free) in green letters is displayed on the windshield. You can also pick up taxis at major hotels and at taxi stands all over the city. In addition to the regular fare, a small surcharge is added for all trips 11 pm-7 am and all day Sunday and holidays. Other supplemental charges include a fee for each suitcase handled by the driver and a surcharge for travel to and from the airport (6 euros), and also bus and train stations (3 euros). An extra charge is also added for destinations outside the city limits.
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Train
Madrid has two main intercity railway stations, Atocha and Chamartin, and a smaller station, Principe Pio, which covers suburban and provincial towns closer to the capital. Information about fares, schedules and destinations for all train stations can be obtained from RENFE (the Spanish railways office; http://www.renfe.es). Atocha and Chamartin both provide a number of high-speed train services called Talgo, AVE, Alvia, Alaris, Altaria or Arco, depending on the destination. For a rail pass to travel from Madrid to another European country, visit http://www.raileurope.com. Atocha This is the major station and the most modern, located on the south side of Madrid. Trains arrive there from southern and southeastern Spain and from Portugal. The high-speed AVE trains to Cordoba (one hour 45 minutes), Malaga and Seville (both two hours 30 minutes; total refund if train is more than 10 minutes late); and Valencia (about one hour and 45 minutes) depart from there. The station has many shops, restaurants and cafes, as well as an indoor tropical garden. It is located on Glorieta del Emperador Carlos V. An exit from the Atocha Renfe metro station leads directly into it. Madrid, Spain. Chamartin Trains in and out of this station connect with Bilbao, San Sebastian, Barcelona (only two hours 45 minutes away by AVE) and many European capitals. The terminus is located on Calle San Agustin de Foxa, above the Chamartin metro station. Madrid, Spain. Principe Pio Formerly known as the Estacion Norte (when it operated services to Paris and other North European destinations) this expansively renovated station today offers mainly commuter service, with connections to El Escorial, Avila and other bedroom communities. It's located in the western part of Madrid (near Palacio Real) and can be reached from the Opera metro station. Madrid, Spain.

Tourist Offices
Patronato Municipal de Turismo The main tourist office is in Plaza Mayor. There are additional tourist offices at Barajas Airport, Centro Puerta de Toledo, Atocha and Chamartin train stations, tourist centers at Plaza de Colon, Plaza de Cibeles and Plaza de Callao, and at Duque de Mendinaceli 2. Hours vary at the different locations. The main office in Plaza Mayor is open daily 9:30 am-8:30 pm. Plaza Mayor 27 (Sol metro station). Madrid, Spain. Phone 91-588-2900. http://www.esmadrid.com or http://www.descubremadrid.com.
Events
Calendar
Madrid's colorful calendar is filled with local and national saints' days, festivals, bullfights and soccer matches. There's great art in both the permanent collections and in traveling exhibitions at the Prado, Reina Sofia and Thyssen-Bornemisza museums. In the summer, band concerts are presented in El Retiro, and live music and dance is performed in venues throughout the city. For detailed information about upcoming events in the Madrid area, contact the City Directorate of Tourism. Phone 91-366-5477. http://www.madrid.org. Alternatively, contact Spain's Tourist Ministry (phone 901-300-600; http://www.spain.info). Other resources include http://www.esmadrid.com, http://www.descubremadrid.com and http://www.madrid-tourist-guide.com. If you're calling the phone numbers in this calendar from outside Spain, you must first dial your own country's international access code, then Spain's country code, 34, followed by Madrid's city code, 91. When dialing from within Spain, and even from within Madrid, you must dial Madrid's city code, 91, before the rest of the telephone number. We've included the city code in the phone numbers listed in this calendar. Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.
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May 2012
Early MayDance During its annual tour of Spain and other countries, the Compania Nacional de Danza often performs in its home city of Madrid. Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-354-5053. http://cndanza.mcu.es. Concludes early May 1 MayLabor Day Public holiday, characterized by a workers' march through the city, outdoor grills in Casa de Campo and stage performances. 2 MayMadrid Day Public holiday marking the expulsion of Napoleon's army. Live music performed on Plaza Mayor and Parque de las Vistillas. 7-13 MayTennis The indoor Madrid Masters Series is part of the ATP Masters Series on the Association of Tennis Professionals (ATP) Tour. Madrid Arena in Caso de Campo Park. Also called the Telefonica Arena. For information, call 902-183-647. http://www.atpworldtour.com. 15 MaySan Isidro's Day Public holiday in Madrid honoring the city's patron saint. Festivities associated with this dayfairs, competitions, dancing, musicnormally extend into June. During this time, bullfights featuring renowned toreadors take place almost daily at Las Ventas. Throughout MayOpera Operas are performed regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-516-0660. http://www.teatroreal.com. Continues through mid July Throughout MayFiestas In the summer, Madrid's neighborhoods erupt into a series of street parties. The Carabanchel, Centro, La Latina, Puente de Vallecas and Villaverde neighborhoods are especially lively. Revelers are decked out in finery, music fills the streets, and vendors sell food and drinks. Dusk into early morning. Continues through early September Throughout MayBullfights Held on Sunday evenings at 7 pm in the Plaza de Toros Monumental de las Ventas. Although most of the tickets go to season-ticket holders, some are sold at Las Ventas two days before the bullfight. Tickets are also sold online at http://www.ticketstoros.com. Other unofficial ticket venues (on Calle Victoria and Plaza del Carmen) are pricier. If tickets are sold out, you may be able to buy tickets from individuals around Calle Victoria, just off Puerta del Sol. Las Ventas, Calle de Alcala 237. For information, call 91-356-2200. http://www.las-ventas.com. Continues through late October Throughout MayConcert Symphonic and classical-music concerts are held regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-5160660 or 91-516-0600. http://www.teatro-real.com. Continues through mid July Throughout MayConcert The Spanish National Orchestra and Chorus performs regularly at Auditorio Nacional de Musica, Calle Principe de Vergara 146. For more information, call 91-337-0140. http://ocne.mcu.es. Concludes late May Throughout MayPerformance The Teatro de la Zarzuela is home to concerts, opera, ballet and flamenco performances. Teatro de la Zarzuela, Jovellanos 4. For information, call 91-524-5400. http://teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es. Continues through mid July Throughout MaySoccer Atletico Madrid plays at Estadio Vicento Calderon, Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto 67. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.clubatleticodemadrid.com. Season continues through late June Throughout MaySoccer Real Madrid plays at Estadio Santiago Bernabeu, Paseo de la Castellana 104. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.realmadrid.com. Season continues through late June Throughout MaySoccer Rayo Vallecano plays at Estadio Teresa Rivero, Payaso Fofo. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadiums two days prior to game day. No credit cards. Phone 91-478-2253. http://www.rayovallecano.es. Season continues through late June
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June 2012
7 JunCorpus Christi Public holiday. 13 JunSt. Anthony's Day This day has Madrid singles retrieving pins from the font of holy water at the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida; tradition holds that if they prick a finger, they'll marry within a year. 24 JunSt. John the Baptist's Day This day venerates the king's name-saint. San Juan festivals around the country center on midnight fire rituals. Throughout JuneSoccer Real Madrid plays at Estadio Santiago Bernabeu, Paseo de la Castellana 104. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.realmadrid.com. Season concludes late June Throughout JuneSoccer Rayo Vallecano plays at Estadio Teresa Rivero, Payaso Fofo. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadiums two days prior to game day. No credit cards. Phone 91-478-2253. http://www.rayovallecano.es. Season concludes late June Throughout JuneOpera Operas are performed regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-516-0660. http://www.teatroreal.com. Continues through mid July Throughout JuneFiestas In the summer, Madrid's neighborhoods erupt into a series of street parties. The Carabanchel, Centro, La Latina, Puente de Vallecas and Villaverde neighborhoods are especially lively. Revelers are decked out in finery, music fills the streets, and vendors sell food and drinks. Dusk into early morning. Continues through early September Throughout JuneBullfights Held on Sunday evenings at 7 pm in the Plaza de Toros Monumental de las Ventas. Although most of the tickets go to season-ticket holders, some are sold at Las Ventas two days before the bullfight. Tickets are also sold online at http://www.ticketstoros.com. Other unofficial ticket venues (on Calle Victoria and Plaza del Carmen) are pricier. If tickets are sold out, you may be able to buy tickets from individuals around Calle Victoria, just off Puerta del Sol. Las Ventas, Calle de Alcala 237. For information, call 91-356-2200. http://www.las-ventas.com. Continues through late October Throughout JuneConcert Symphonic and classical-music concerts are held regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-5160660 or 91-516-0600. http://www.teatro-real.com. Continues through mid July Throughout JuneSoccer Atletico Madrid plays at Estadio Vicento Calderon, Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto 67. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.clubatleticodemadrid.com. Season concludes late June Throughout JunePerformance The Teatro de la Zarzuela is home to concerts, opera, ballet and flamenco performances. Teatro de la Zarzuela, Jovellanos 4. For information, call 91-524-5400. http://teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es. Continues through mid July
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July 2012
Early-Mid JulyPerformance The Teatro de la Zarzuela is home to concerts, opera, ballet and flamenco performances. Teatro de la Zarzuela, Jovellanos 4. For information, call 91-524-5400. http://teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es. Concludes mid July Early-Mid JulyConcert Symphonic and classical-music concerts are held regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-5160660 or 91-516-0600. http://www.teatro-real.com. Concludes mid July Early-Mid JulyOpera Operas are performed regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-516-0660. http://www.teatro-real.com. Concludes mid July Early-Late JulyVeranos de la Villa Festival This performing-arts festival features concerts, dance and theater productions, film screenings and children's activities. Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-758-9279. http://veranosdelavilla.esmadrid.com. Continues through late August Throughout JulyFiestas In the summer, Madrid's neighborhoods erupt into a series of street parties. The Carabanchel, Centro, La Latina, Puente de Vallecas and Villaverde neighborhoods are especially lively. Revelers are decked out in finery, music fills the streets, and vendors sell food and drinks. Dusk into early morning. Continues through early September Throughout JulyBullfights Held on Sunday evenings at 7 pm in the Plaza de Toros Monumental de las Ventas. Although most of the tickets go to season-ticket holders, some are sold at Las Ventas two days before the bullfight. Tickets are also sold online at http://www.ticketstoros.com. Other unofficial ticket venues (on Calle Victoria and Plaza del Carmen) are pricier. If tickets are sold out, you may be able to buy tickets from individuals around Calle Victoria, just off Puerta del Sol. Las Ventas, Calle de Alcala 237. For information, call 91-356-2200. http://www.las-ventas.com. Continues through late October
August 2012
15 AugFeast of the Assumption Public holiday. Throughout AugustFiestas In the summer, Madrid's neighborhoods erupt into a series of street parties. The Carabanchel, Centro, La Latina, Puente de Vallecas and Villaverde neighborhoods are especially lively. Revelers are decked out in finery, music fills the streets, and vendors sell food and drinks. Dusk into early morning. Continues through early September Throughout AugustBullfights Held on Sunday evenings at 7 pm in the Plaza de Toros Monumental de las Ventas. Although most of the tickets go to season-ticket holders, some are sold at Las Ventas two days before the bullfight. Tickets are also sold online at http://www.ticketstoros.com. Other unofficial ticket venues (on Calle Victoria and Plaza del Carmen) are pricier. If tickets are sold out, you may be able to buy tickets from individuals around Calle Victoria, just off Puerta del Sol. Las Ventas, Calle de Alcala 237. For information, call 91-356-2200. http://www.las-ventas.com. Continues through late October Throughout AugustVeranos de la Villa Festival This performing-arts festival features concerts, dance and theater productions, film screenings and children's activities. Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-758-9279. http://veranosdelavilla.esmadrid.com. Concludes late August
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September 2012
Early SeptemberFiestas In the summer, Madrid's neighborhoods erupt into a series of street parties. The Carabanchel, Centro, La Latina, Puente de Vallecas and Villaverde neighborhoods are especially lively. Revelers are decked out in finery, music fills the streets, and vendors sell food and drinks. Dusk into early morning. Concludes early September Early-Mid SeptemberVuelta de Espana Bicycle Race The final five laps of the annual Vuelta de Espana (Tour of Spain) are held in and around Madrid. http://www.lavuelta.com. Early-Late SeptemberConcert Symphonic and classical-music concerts are held regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91516-0660 or 91-516-0600. http://www.teatro-real.com. Continues through mid July 2013 Early-Late SeptemberSoccer Atletico Madrid plays at Estadio Vicento Calderon, Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto 67. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.clubatleticodemadrid.com. Season continues through late June 2013 Early-Late SeptemberSoccer Real Madrid plays at Estadio Santiago Bernabeu, Paseo de la Castellana 104. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.realmadrid.com. Season continues through late June 2013 Early-Late SeptemberSoccer Rayo Vallecano plays at Estadio Teresa Rivero, Payaso Fofo. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadiums two days prior to game day. No credit cards. Phone 91-478-2253. http://www.rayovallecano.es. Season continues through late June 2013 Mid-Late SeptemberOpera Operas are performed regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-516-0660. http://www.teatroreal.com. Continues through mid July 2013 Throughout SeptemberBullfights Held on Sunday evenings at 7 pm in the Plaza de Toros Monumental de las Ventas. Although most of the tickets go to season-ticket holders, some are sold at Las Ventas two days before the bullfight. Tickets are also sold online at http://www.ticketstoros.com. Other unofficial ticket venues (on Calle Victoria and Plaza del Carmen) are pricier. If tickets are sold out, you may be able to buy tickets from individuals around Calle Victoria, just off Puerta del Sol. Las Ventas, Calle de Alcala 237. For information, call 91-356-2200. http://www.las-ventas.com. Continues through late October
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October 2012
Early-Late OctoberPerformance The Teatro de la Zarzuela is home to concerts, opera, ballet and flamenco performances. Teatro de la Zarzuela, Jovellanos 4. For information, call 91-524-5400. http://teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es. Continues through mid July 2013 Mid-Late OctoberConcert The Spanish National Orchestra and Chorus performs regularly at Auditorio Nacional de Musica, Calle Principe de Vergara 146. For more information, call 91-337-0140. http://ocne.mcu.es. Continues through late May 2013 Mid-Late OctoberDance During its annual tour of Spain and other countries, the Compania Nacional de Danza often performs in its home city of Madrid. Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-354-5053. http://cndanza.mcu.es. Continues through early May 2013 12 OctHispanic Day Public holiday marking the discovery of America. Throughout OctoberOpera Operas are performed regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-516-0660. http://www.teatroreal.com. Continues through mid July 2013 Throughout OctoberBullfights Held on Sunday evenings at 7 pm in the Plaza de Toros Monumental de las Ventas. Although most of the tickets go to season-ticket holders, some are sold at Las Ventas two days before the bullfight. Tickets are also sold online at http://www.ticketstoros.com. Other unofficial ticket venues (on Calle Victoria and Plaza del Carmen) are pricier. If tickets are sold out, you may be able to buy tickets from individuals around Calle Victoria, just off Puerta del Sol. Las Ventas, Calle de Alcala 237. For information, call 91-356-2200. http://www.las-ventas.com. Concludes late October Throughout OctoberSoccer Atletico Madrid plays at Estadio Vicento Calderon, Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto 67. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.clubatleticodemadrid.com. Season continues through late June 2013 Throughout OctoberSoccer Real Madrid plays at Estadio Santiago Bernabeu, Paseo de la Castellana 104. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.realmadrid.com. Season continues through late June 2013 Throughout OctoberSoccer Rayo Vallecano plays at Estadio Teresa Rivero, Payaso Fofo. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadiums two days prior to game day. No credit cards. Phone 91-478-2253. http://www.rayovallecano.es. Season continues through late June 2013 Throughout OctoberConcert Symphonic and classical-music concerts are held regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91516-0660 or 91-516-0600. http://www.teatro-real.com. Continues through mid July 2013
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November 2012
Early-Late NovemberHorse Races The Memorial Duque de Toledo is a major flat-racing event. See Web site for exact dates. http://www.hipodromodelazarzuela.es. Early-Late NovemberJazz Festival An annual citywide festival that takes place in venues throughout Madrid. For information, contact Colectivo Promocion Jazz. http://www.esmadrid.com/festivaljazz. Continues through early December 1 NovAll Saints' Day Public holiday. 9 NovNuestra Senora de la Almudena Public holiday. Throughout NovemberOpera Operas are performed regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-516-0660. http://www.teatro-real.com. Continues through mid July 2013 Throughout NovemberSoccer Atletico Madrid plays at Estadio Vicento Calderon, Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto 67. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.clubatleticodemadrid.com. Season continues through late June 2013 Throughout NovemberConcert The Spanish National Orchestra and Chorus performs regularly at Auditorio Nacional de Musica, Calle Principe de Vergara 146. For more information, call 91-337-0140. http://ocne.mcu.es. Continues through late May 2013 Throughout NovemberDance During its annual tour of Spain and other countries, the Compania Nacional de Danza often performs in its home city of Madrid. Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-354-5053. http://cndanza.mcu.es. Continues through early May 2013 Throughout NovemberConcert Symphonic and classical-music concerts are held regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-516-0660 or 91-516-0600. http://www.teatro-real.com. Continues through mid July 2013 Throughout NovemberPerformance The Teatro de la Zarzuela is home to concerts, opera, ballet and flamenco performances. Teatro de la Zarzuela, Jovellanos 4. For information, call 91-524-5400. http://teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es. Continues through mid July 2013 Throughout NovemberSoccer Real Madrid plays at Estadio Santiago Bernabeu, Paseo de la Castellana 104. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.realmadrid.com. Season continues through late June 2013 Throughout NovemberSoccer Rayo Vallecano plays at Estadio Teresa Rivero, Payaso Fofo. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadiums two days prior to game day. No credit cards. Phone 91-478-2253. http://www.rayovallecano.es. Season continues through late June 2013
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December 2012
Early DecemberJazz Festival An annual citywide festival that takes place in venues throughout Madrid. For information, contact Colectivo Promocion Jazz. http://www.esmadrid.com/festivaljazz. Concludes early December Early-Late DecemberChristmas Preparations The Plaza Mayor is lined with stalls selling Christmas trees, toys and food. 6 DecConstitution Day Public holiday. 8 DecFeast of the Immaculate Conception Public holiday. 24 DecChristmas Eve On Noche Buena, the evening is devoted to traditional family observances, followed by midnight Mass. Turrones (marzipan) and villancicos (Christmas carols) accompany this day and Christmas Day following. 25 DecChristmas Public holiday. 28 DecDia de los Inocentes A day similar to April Fools' Day. Throughout DecemberOpera Operas are performed regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-516-0660. http://www.teatroreal.com. Continues through mid July 2013 Throughout DecemberDance During its annual tour of Spain and other countries, the Compania Nacional de Danza often performs in its home city of Madrid. Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-354-5053. http://cndanza.mcu.es. Continues through early May 2013 Throughout DecemberSoccer Atletico Madrid plays at Estadio Vicento Calderon, Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto 67. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.clubatleticodemadrid.com. Season continues through late June 2013 Throughout DecemberConcert The Spanish National Orchestra and Chorus performs regularly at Auditorio Nacional de Musica, Calle Principe de Vergara 146. For more information, call 91-337-0140. http://ocne.mcu.es. Continues through late May 2013 Throughout DecemberSoccer Real Madrid plays at Estadio Santiago Bernabeu, Paseo de la Castellana 104. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.realmadrid.com. Season continues through late June 2013 Throughout DecemberSoccer Rayo Vallecano plays at Estadio Teresa Rivero, Payaso Fofo. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadiums two days prior to game day. No credit cards. Phone 91-478-2253. http://www.rayovallecano.es. Season continues through late June 2013 Throughout DecemberPerformance The Teatro de la Zarzuela is home to concerts, opera, ballet and flamenco performances. Teatro de la Zarzuela, Jovellanos 4. For information, call 91-524-5400. http://teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es. Continues through mid July 2013 Throughout DecemberConcert Symphonic and classical-music concerts are held regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-516-0660 or 91-516-0600. http://www.teatro-real.com. Continues through mid July 2013
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January 2013
1 JanNew Year's Day Public holiday. 5 JanNight Parade Elaborate parade through the city's streets, with lavishly decorated floats, heralds the arrival of the three kings on the following day, Epiphany. 6 JanEpiphany Public holiday. This is a big day for children, who receive presents. 17 JanFiesta de San Anton St. Anthony Abad, popularly known as San Anton, is the patron saint of animals. Many Madrid residents take their pets to be blessed in the Calle Hortaleza. Throughout JanuarySoccer Atletico Madrid plays at Estadio Vicento Calderon, Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto 67. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.clubatleticodemadrid.com. Season continues through late June Throughout JanuaryConcert The Spanish National Orchestra and Chorus performs regularly at Auditorio Nacional de Musica, Calle Principe de Vergara 146. For more information, call 91-337-0140. http://ocne.mcu.es. Continues through late May Throughout JanuaryPerformance The Teatro de la Zarzuela is home to concerts, opera, ballet and flamenco performances. Teatro de la Zarzuela, Jovellanos 4. For information, call 91-524-5400. http://teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es. Continues through mid July Throughout JanuaryConcert Symphonic and classical-music concerts are held regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91516-0660 or 91-516-0600. http://www.teatro-real.com. Continues through mid July Throughout JanuaryOpera Operas are performed regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-516-0660. http://www.teatroreal.com. Continues through mid July Throughout JanuarySoccer Real Madrid plays at Estadio Santiago Bernabeu, Paseo de la Castellana 104. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.realmadrid.com. Season continues through late June Throughout JanuarySoccer Rayo Vallecano plays at Estadio Teresa Rivero, Payaso Fofo. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadiums two days prior to game day. No credit cards. Phone 91-478-2253. http://www.rayovallecano.es. Season continues through late June Throughout JanuaryDance During its annual tour of Spain and other countries, the Compania Nacional de Danza often performs in its home city of Madrid. Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-354-5053. http://cndanza.mcu.es. Continues through early May
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February 2013
Throughout FebruaryConcert Symphonic and classical-music concerts are held regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91516-0660 or 91-516-0600. http://www.teatro-real.com. Continues through mid July Throughout FebruarySoccer Atletico Madrid plays at Estadio Vicento Calderon, Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto 67. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.clubatleticodemadrid.com. Season continues through late June Throughout FebruaryConcert The Spanish National Orchestra and Chorus performs regularly at Auditorio Nacional de Musica, Calle Principe de Vergara 146. For more information, call 91-337-0140. http://ocne.mcu.es. Continues through late May Throughout FebruaryPerformance The Teatro de la Zarzuela is home to concerts, opera, ballet and flamenco performances. Teatro de la Zarzuela, Jovellanos 4. For information, call 91-524-5400. http://teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es. Continues through mid July Throughout FebruaryDance During its annual tour of Spain and other countries, the Compania Nacional de Danza often performs in its home city of Madrid. Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-354-5053. http://cndanza.mcu.es. Continues through early May Throughout FebruarySoccer Real Madrid plays at Estadio Santiago Bernabeu, Paseo de la Castellana 104. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.realmadrid.com. Season continues through late June Throughout FebruarySoccer Rayo Vallecano plays at Estadio Teresa Rivero, Payaso Fofo. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadiums two days prior to game day. No credit cards. Phone 91-478-2253. http://www.rayovallecano.es. Season continues through late June Throughout FebruaryOpera Operas are performed regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-516-0660. http://www.teatroreal.com. Continues through mid July
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March 2013
Early-Late MarchBullfights Held on Sunday evenings at 7 pm in the Plaza de Toros Monumental de las Ventas. Although most of the tickets go to season-ticket holders, some are sold at Las Ventas two days before the bullfight. Tickets are also sold online at http://www.ticketstoros.com. Other unofficial ticket venues (on Calle Victoria and Plaza del Carmen) are pricier. If tickets are sold out, you may be able to buy tickets from individuals around Calle Victoria, just off Puerta del Sol. Las Ventas, Calle de Alcala 237. For information, call 91-356-2200. http://www.las-ventas.com. Continues through late October 8 MarWomen's Day In Madrid, this international holiday is marked by a parade through the city and parties organized by women's groups at bars and clubs. Theatrical and musical performances by or about women take place on this day. 19 MarFeast of St. Joseph Public holiday. 28-31 MarSemana Santa (Holy Week) Holy Thursday, Good Friday, Holy Saturday, Easter Sunday and the Monday following are public as well as religious holidays. Throughout the week, expect to hear organ concerts and view solemn processions. The procession in La Latina neighborhood is particularly striking. A procession also takes place in Toledo (45 mi/70 km from Madrid). Continues through 1 Apr Throughout MarchOpera Operas are performed regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-516-0660. http://www.teatroreal.com. Continues through mid July Throughout MarchSoccer Atletico Madrid plays at Estadio Vicento Calderon, Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto 67. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.clubatleticodemadrid.com. Season continues through late June Throughout MarchConcert The Spanish National Orchestra and Chorus performs regularly at Auditorio Nacional de Musica, Calle Principe de Vergara 146. For more information, call 91-337-0140. http://ocne.mcu.es. Continues through late May Throughout MarchPerformance The Teatro de la Zarzuela is home to concerts, opera, ballet and flamenco performances. Teatro de la Zarzuela, Jovellanos 4. For information, call 91-524-5400. http://teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es. Continues through mid July Throughout MarchConcert Symphonic and classical-music concerts are held regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91516-0660 or 91-516-0600. http://www.teatro-real.com. Continues through mid July Throughout MarchDance During its annual tour of Spain and other countries, the Compania Nacional de Danza often performs in its home city of Madrid. Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-354-5053. http://cndanza.mcu.es. Continues through early May Throughout MarchSoccer Real Madrid plays at Estadio Santiago Bernabeu, Paseo de la Castellana 104. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.realmadrid.com. Season continues through late June Throughout MarchSoccer Rayo Vallecano plays at Estadio Teresa Rivero, Payaso Fofo. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadiums two days prior to game day. No credit cards. Phone 91-478-2253. http://www.rayovallecano.es. Season continues through late June
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April 2013
1 AprSemana Santa (Holy Week) Holy Thursday, Good Friday, Holy Saturday, Easter Sunday and the Monday following are public as well as religious holidays. Throughout the week, expect to hear organ concerts and view solemn processions. The procession in La Latina neighborhood is particularly striking. A procession also takes place in Toledo (45 mi/70 km from Madrid). Final day Throughout AprilBullfights Held on Sunday evenings at 7 pm in the Plaza de Toros Monumental de las Ventas. Although most of the tickets go to season-ticket holders, some are sold at Las Ventas two days before the bullfight. Tickets are also sold online at http://www.ticketstoros.com. Other unofficial ticket venues (on Calle Victoria and Plaza del Carmen) are pricier. If tickets are sold out, you may be able to buy tickets from individuals around Calle Victoria, just off Puerta del Sol. Las Ventas, Calle de Alcala 237. For information, call 91-356-2200. http://www.las-ventas.com. Continues through late October Throughout AprilOpera Operas are performed regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-516-0660. http://www.teatroreal.com. Continues through mid July Throughout AprilConcert Symphonic and classical-music concerts are held regularly at the Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-5160660 or 91-516-0600. http://www.teatro-real.com. Continues through mid July Throughout AprilSoccer Real Madrid plays at Estadio Santiago Bernabeu, Paseo de la Castellana 104. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.realmadrid.com. Season continues through late June Throughout AprilSoccer Rayo Vallecano plays at Estadio Teresa Rivero, Payaso Fofo. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadiums two days prior to game day. No credit cards. Phone 91-478-2253. http://www.rayovallecano.es. Season continues through late June Throughout AprilDance During its annual tour of Spain and other countries, the Compania Nacional de Danza often performs in its home city of Madrid. Teatro Real, Plaza Isabel II. Phone 91-354-5053. http://cndanza.mcu.es. Continues through early May Throughout AprilSoccer Atletico Madrid plays at Estadio Vicento Calderon, Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto 67. Matches are normally held Sunday evenings, though sometimes a Saturday game will be scheduled. Tickets go on sale at the stadium two days prior to game day. No credit cards. http://www.clubatleticodemadrid.com. Season continues through late June Throughout AprilConcert The Spanish National Orchestra and Chorus performs regularly at Auditorio Nacional de Musica, Calle Principe de Vergara 146. For more information, call 91-337-0140. http://ocne.mcu.es. Continues through late May Throughout AprilPerformance The Teatro de la Zarzuela is home to concerts, opera, ballet and flamenco performances. Teatro de la Zarzuela, Jovellanos 4. For information, call 91-524-5400. http://teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es. Continues through mid July
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Spain
Overview
Introduction
Spain offers visitors a richness and complexity that may surprise. All the tempting postcard fantasy pictures are there in reality, side-by-side with other, less-expected ones. You may come across fiesta dancers in a village square, a young man practicing flamenco guitar, a medieval Arab fortress or windmills so enormous Don Quixote could be forgiven for thinking they were giants. But there's also the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, its mind-bending shapes like those of no other museum in the world, just as the exuberant architecture of Gaudi's Sagrada Familia in Barcelona makes it like no other church in the world. You may see ultracool young Madrilenos togged out in urban chic, talking endlessly on their cell phones; international businesspeople hurrying to appointments; and tourists and golfers of many nations flocking to Spain's spectacular countryside and balmy beaches. There are super-fast trains, and there are villages where life goes at a pace that has changed little for centuries.
Andalusia landscape
Spain today is a vibrant member of the European Union that has transformed itself from a remote backwater to a modern nation, all within living memory. The contrasts, the colors and the vibrant spirit of the place will stay with you for a long time.
Geography
Spain is Europe's second-most mountainous country (only Switzerland has a higher terrain), and the climate varies dramatically according to altitude as well as latitude. In the province of Granada, it is possible to ski in the mountains and lounge on a beach, both in the same day. True alpine conditions prevail in many of Spain's mountains, from the Pyrenees along the border with France to the Sierra Nevada above Granada in the south, and the central two-fifths of the country is primarily high plains crossed by mountain ranges and rivers. Besides the mainland peninsula, Spanish possessions include the Mediterranean Balearic Islands, the Canary Archipelago (in the Atlantic off the coast of Africa) and the Moroccan coastal enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla. Mainland Spain can be divided into three climatic zones: the Oceanic in the north (the rainiest and greenest part along the Bay of Biscay and in Galicia); the Mediterranean Zone (sunny and semiarid); and central Spain (hot in summer, cold in winter, relatively dry). Spain is also divided into distinctive, politically autonomous regions, each with its own culture and history, and several with their own languages (including Catalonia, Galicia and the Basque region). Hot, arid Andalusia, to the south, is the home of flamenco, bullfighting and spectacular Moorish architecture.
History
Spain's history was shaped by many forcesthe Celts, Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans and Germanic tribes (Visigoths, Vandals) all had a strong hand in influencing the people of the Iberian Peninsula, of which Spain is a part. Perhaps the greatest artistic and intellectual ferment in Spain, though, was under the Islamic conquerors, the Moors (Arabs and Berbers), who ruled parts of the peninsula from 711 to 1492. This period of history in al-Andalus was characterized by a diffusion of culture among Jews, Christians and Muslims, and Europe, North Africa and the Middle East. Periods of peace and cooperation were interspersed with spells of fierce fighting. Universities, unique architecture and an age of religious toleration were all fostered by many of the Islamic rulers, most notably those of the Caliphate of Cordoba in the late 10th and early 11th centuries. After a protracted struggle with Christian forces, the Moors were finally defeated in 1492. That same year, all Jews were expelled
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher from Spain, and Columbus crossed the Atlantic under the Spanish flag to reveal the New World to Europe. The next century saw the apogee of Spain's power and influence throughout the world: Theirs was the first worldwide empire. In addition to their adventures far afield, Spanish kings controlled all or parts of what are now Portugal, the Netherlands, Italy and France. By the early 1600s, most Muslims had been forced to convert or were expelled from the peninsula. Imperial ambitions brought on imperial excess, however, and adventurism finally sapped the strength of Spain. The country went into a decline that saw it lose nearly all of its colonial possessions by the late 1800s. In the early part of the 20th century, Spain was in turmoil as its traditional culture and economy clashed with modern political and social forces. The breaking point was reached in 1936 with the first shots of the horrific Spanish Civil War. Fascist dictator Gen. Francisco Franco, with the help of Hitler and Mussolini, emerged victorious from the civil war and ruled until his death in 1975. He left Spain in the care of King Juan Carlos I, who helped transform Spain into a modern democracy. With its new freedoms, the country enjoyed a cultural renaissance in the 1980s and 1990s, and joined the European Union in 1986. The country held the world's attention in 1992 as host of the Summer Olympics (in Barcelona) and Expo '92 (in Seville). In the new millennium, Spain is fully integrated into the EU.
Snapshot
Spain's main attractions are historical sites, lively cities, some of the finest art in the world, castles, cathedrals, the Alhambra, shopping, the White Villages, traditional fiestas, cultural events, beaches, museums, caves, hiking, watersports and great food. Anyone who likes to travel will enjoy Spain. From its art museums and its tapas bars to its beaches, Spain's appeal is so broad that it's truly a country with something for everyone.
Potpourri
Menorca's port city of Mahon was the birthplace of mayonnaise. At 2,133 ft/650 m, Madrid is the highest capital city in Europe. It became the capital in 1561 when Philip II moved his court from Toledo to be closer to his beloved palace, El Escorial. Point Tarifa is the southernmost spot in Europe. It is considered the best spot in Europe for windsurfing and kitesurfing. Morocco is only 8 mi/13 km from Spain's southern shore across the Strait of Gibraltar. There are ferries and excursions from Algeciras and Tarifa. Spain has the second-highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, after Italy. The Torre de Hercules in La Coruna on the Galician coast is claimed as the oldest lighthouse in the world, dating to 20 BC. Christopher Columbus brought the first cocoa beans to Spain on his return from his last voyage to the Caribbean in 1502. The Spanish explorer Hernan Cortes drank a bitter chocolate drink with Aztecs in 1519. He added cane sugar and spices to make it more palatable. Back home, the Spanish served it piping hot and created the world's first hot chocolate. Don Quixote by Miguel de Cervantes, published in 1615, is considered the world's first novel in the modern sense of the word.
Hotel Overview
Accommodations in Spain range from the best to the basic. Everything from deluxe international hotels, resorts and paradors to pensions, hostels, apartments, youth hostels (albergues de juventud), refugios (in mountains), campgrounds (often within or just outside city limits) and budget hotels are available. Paradors, or luxury state-run hotels, often within castles, palaces or other historic buildings, are well-distributed throughout the country. The concept, which was put into practice in 1928, belongs to the Marquis de la Vega Inclan and was meant to "act as guardian of Spain's national and artistic heritage while promoting tourism."
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher Pensions and some of the modest accommodations are sometimes located in old, atmospheric apartments. Budget travelers willing to partake of the monastic life for a night or two can stay in working monasteries (but check in advancesome don't allow women).
See & Do
Sightseeing
Spain's sights encompass a huge variety of interests. For history buffs, Spain is second in the world with UNESCO-designated World Heritage Cultural sights. It also has 13 World Heritage CitiesAvila, Alcala de Henares, Caceres, Cordoba, Cuenca, Eivissa, Merida, Salamanca, San Cristobal de la Laguna, Santiago de Compostela, Segovia, Tarragona and Toledo. For sightseers, each of these cities is filled with monuments and buildings steeped in centuries of history and ethnic diversity. Cultural aficionados will enjoy visits to Spain's churches, palaces or museums, such as the Gothic La Catedral (La Seu) in Barcelona, the grandiose Alhambra complex in Granada, the mosque in Cordoba, the futuristic-looking Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, the modern art museum Centro de Arte Reina Sofia in Madrid or Pablo Picasso's birth home in Malaga. Also popular are visits to Spain's opera houses and theaters. Other popular sightseeing trips include tours of wineries and wine centers where you can partake in wine tastings and, in some cases, take gastronomy classes. For those more interested in out-of-the-way experiences, explore one of Spain's White Villages in Andalusia, where time seems to stand still. Or visit the Canary Islands for lots of beaches, volcanoes and lush scenery. Spain has an extraordinary number and variety of traditional fiestas, many of them with clear medieval or even prehistoric roots. The most spectacular include the bull running in Pamplona, burning sculptures (fallas) in Valencia, mock battles between Moors and Christians on the Costa Blanca, and Easter Week processions of hooded "penitents" in Seville and elsewhere. Spain has many attractions specifically for children. Two of the most popular are the theme parks of Port Aventura, near Tarragona in Catalonia, and Parque Warner Madrid.
Recreation
Outdoor activities include walking and hiking, especially in one of Spain's 14 national parks. Of these, four are in the Canary Islands and one in the Balearics. Two of the mainland parks are in the Pyrenees: Aiguestortes i Estany (in Catalonia) and Ordesa y Monte Perdido (north of Zaragoza). The Picos de Europa (in the extreme north) and Sierra Nevada (in the extreme south) are also magnificent areas of mountain. Donana (southwest of Seville) and Tablas de Daimiel (in La Mancha), meanwhile, are wetlands of scientific importance. For additional information, contact the National Park Offices. Phone 34-97-369-6189. http://reddeparquesnacionales.mma.es/parques/index.htm. For locals and tourists, windsurfing is a popular pastime, with Tarifa being one of the busiest spots in Spain for wind- and kitesurfing. While there, you can rent equipment and/or take classes on how to wind- and kitesurf. For additional information, contact one of the area's professional sports centers such as Dragon Kite School. Phone 34-66-088-2710. http://www.dragonkiteschool.com. Indoor time can be spent in one of the many local wellness centers and spas, where relaxation is the top priority, especially for a busy traveler on the go.
Spectator Sports
Spain's national sport is undeniably futbol (soccer). The crowds at games can be massive, noisy and festive, depending on how the teams are faring. The season runs September-June. The two top teams are the eternal rivals Real Madrid and Barca (Barcelona). Other successful teams are Valencia, Atletico Madrid and Bilbao Atletico. All these compete in a national league and in an annual tournament, the Copa del
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher Rey. Spain's national team won the 2010 World Cup in South Africa. Another major sport, although less significant in the numbers of spectators it attracts, is basketball. The sporting calendar also includes golf and tennis tournaments, and car, motorbike and yacht races. All sports events are advertised in the daily press and in the weekly supplements offered by most daily newspapers. Spain's trademark outdoor spectacle is la corrida (bullfighting), which combines elements of a sporting and a cultural event but is in a category of its own. The major events in the bullfighting calendar draw huge numbers of die-hard fans who consider it an inviolable part of their country's culture, an elaborately choreographed showdown between man and fierce animal. A sizeable number of Spaniards regard la corrida with disapproval as an out-dated ritualized form of animal cruelty, but most of the country is indifferent to its continuation. For the foreign visitor, it is best to suspend judgment and accept it as it is. If you want to attend a bullfight, try to go with someone who can explain what is happening and you will get much more out of the experience.
Shopping
Shopping in Spain is no longer the bargain it used to be. Nevertheless, the country offers unique handcrafted items: contemporary and antique paintings and sculpture, knotted rugs, guitars, ornate handmade shawls, decorative pottery, handmade furniture, and ornamental combs and fans. Other items found in Spain are Lladro (Spanish porcelain), copper and steel wares, leather goods (purses, shoes, wallets), North African goods from Morocco and Algeria, and Spanish antiques (especially on Calle del Prado in Madrid). Also popular is to visit unique shopping areas that offer specialty Spanish goods. Regional specialties include various local liqueurs and wines; swords and knives in Toledo; exquisite lace embroideries in the towns of Torrijos, Oropesa and Lagartera; and ceramics in Talavera, Illescas, Cuenca, Numancia de la Sagra and Manises (Valencia). Many shops in Spain also double as art and antique galleries, worth visiting for their displays of historical pieces and other collectibles. Shopping Hours: Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-1:30 pm and 4:30-8 pm. Larger department stores and malls are open Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 or 10 pm, with occasional openings on Sunday.
Itinerary
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Day By Day
Spain is such a varied country that it requires several visits (or several months) to do it justice. A week should be spent in each region of Spain to gain a true understanding of it. Two weeks is the preferred length for each trip, but if only one week is available, the following itinerary could be used for a broad overview of the country (if you only have a week and would rather see Barcelona, begin your itinerary on Day 8): Day 1Arrive Madrid. Day 2Madrid. Day 3Travel to Toledo. Day 4Travel to Cordoba. Day 5Travel to Granada. Day 6Travel to Seville. Day 7Seville. Day 8Depart Spain. If you have an extra day or two, take an excursion to the White Villages from Seville, using Cadiz or Jerez de la Frontera as a base. If an additional week is available, continue with the following: Day 8Fly to Barcelona. Day 9Barcelona. Day 10Day trip to Girona (or a Costa Brava town, such as Sitges or Figueres). Day 11Fly to San Sebastian. Day 12Day trip to Bilbao or elsewhere in the Basque region. Day 13Fly or take a train back to Madrid or Barcelona. Day 14Depart Spain (from Madrid or Barcelona).
Dining
Dining Overview
We think Spanish cooking is reason enough for a trip to Spain. Part of the pleasure of dining on the Iberian Peninsula is varietyeach region has a distinctive style. Galicia is known for its wonderful seafood (octopus is one of our favorites); the Basque country for its bacalao (a preserved salt cod that tastes better than it sounds); Castile for its cheese, grilled meats and cochinillo (roast suckling pig); Extremadura for Iberian or Serrano ham (a dry-cured spiced ham similar to Italy's Prosciutto di Parma); Navarra for trout and chorizo (a spicy sausage); Andalusia for gazpacho, salmorejo and ajo blanco (delicious chilled soups) and tapas; Catalonia for grilled rabbit, romesco (a sweet pepper sauce traditionally eaten with grilled spring onions) and butifarra (blood sausage). Paella (a delicious saffron-flavored rice dish with artichokes, green beans, poultry and rabbit, or fish and shellfish) is found throughout Spain, but the most authentic version comes from Valencia, where the dish originated. Other dishes to try include sopa de pescado (fish soup), parrillada (a mixture of various fried fish and shellfish) and grilled lamb and rabbit. Cocido (pronounced co-THEE-do) is a traditional Madrileno dish made from sausage, bacon, garbanzo beans, cabbage and boiled
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher meatit's especially popular in winter. Desserts include flan (baked egg custard), turron (marzipan, chocolate or nougat), crema Catalana (egg custard with a crunchy glazed top), tarta de Santiago (a cake made with almonds) and pijamas (a silky combination of peaches, flan and whipped cream). One of the best ways to sample Spanish cooking is at a tapas bar. Tapas are small portions of just about anything: cheese, olives, squid, smoked shrimp, sausage, fried potatoes in a paprika sauce (patas bravas) and marinated vegetables, just to name a few. Order enough little plates, and you will have a meal. Of course, no meal is complete without a bottle of good Spanish wine. In supermarkets and restaurants there is always a good selection of tinto (red), blanco (white) and rosado (rose) wines, often at bargain prices. Rioja is considered by many to be the best wine-growing region. The outputs of many other Spanish wine regions (denominacion de origen or DO)Rias Baixas, Ribeiro, Penedes, Rueda and Ribera del Duero, to name but a handfulare worth exploring, as well. Sherry, a fortified white or red wine, comes from the Andalusian city of Jerez. Spanish brandies are also worth a try. Cava, a bubbly wine similar to champagne, comes from Catalonia. It is best sampled in one of the cava bars or bodegas (wine cellars), which range from expensive to downright homey. Coffee is another favorite, and it comes in several different ways: espresso, cortado (an espresso with a drop of milk), cafe con leche (an espresso with a lot of milk) or carajillo (an espresso with a shot of brandy or rum). Spanish coffee is very strong. If you want a weaker cup, ask for un americano. At the outdoor cafes, you may think that an awful lot of people are drinking milk. It's probably horchata, a cool, refreshing, nonalcoholic beverage made from a sweet root. And Spanish hot chocolate (chocolate) will surprise youit's so sweet and thick you could almost eat it with a spoon. In Spain, lunch starts at 1:30 pm, and dinner often begins at 9 pm or later, especially in summer.
Security
Etiquette
Spain has made steady economic progress and is a vital member of the European Union. Business travelers will find a moderately affluent country, in step with the age of high technology but still maintaining many of its traditions. AppointmentsYou may find it valuable to have a local intermediary who can assist in establishing appointments. Schedule meetings well in advance. As a visitor, you should be punctual but anticipate that your hosts may be less prompt. This can vary by region, however. Catalonians (from the region near Barcelona) pride themselves on their efficiency and timeliness.
Personal IntroductionsHandshakes are the typical greeting. Last names with the appropriate Spanish title are used. If your acquaintance has a professional title, you will learn it when introduced; if not, senor (male), senora (married female) and senorita (unmarried female) are appropriate. The title and the person's last name should be used until you are instructed otherwise. Note that it is typical for Spanish people to have two surnames, one from their father and one from their mother. The father's surname will be given first during the introduction, and that's the name that is used to address or speak of the person. Thus, "Senor Federico Garcia Lorca " would be addressed as "Senor Garcia." Dual-sided business cardsone side in Spanish, one in Englishare appropriate.
NegotiatingBusiness is typically preceded by small talk and pleasantries. Negotiations can be a more extended process than in northern European countries. Companies tend to be hierarchical, so focus on those people of your equal rank or higher. At the same time, the opinion of everyone in the company is important. You are an outsider and must ingratiate yourself. Thus, expect many questions about your business, background and family. Intuition as much as objective fact is important in their impression of you, so remain warm and friendly in your demeanor. Anticipate that many of the people important to a decision may not be present in any given meeting. Business EntertainingLunch and dinner are the meals most commonly attended by business associates. Lunch is usually the more productive for deal-making, but the business discussions should be saved for the very end of the meal, during coffee. Know that dinner is
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher usually served quite late9 or 10 pm. Spaniards often fill the gap between lunch and dinner by snacking on tapas (appetizers) at cafes and taverns.
Body LanguageConversations take place at close quarters, and polite conversational touching may be practiced. Even in some business environments it is common to greet and say goodbye to women by kissing them on both cheeks, but a man should allow the woman to initiate this.
Gift GivingIn business contexts, gifts are typically given at the conclusion of successful negotiations. Gifts should be opened and appreciated immediately. Appropriate personal gifts when visiting a home include flowers or chocolate, but avoid chrysanthemums, dahlias or 13 of anything. ConversationIf you don't speak Spanish, try to learn at least a few phrases well. Spanish culture is always a good topic, as is Spanish literature if you are knowledgeable. Sports and travel are good topics, especially since Spain won the soccer World Cup in 2010. Do not criticize bullfighting should the topic arise. Be aware that, in many regards, Spain is still a country of regions: Many people will identify more strongly with their local area than with the country as a whole.
Personal Safety
In general, Spain is no more dangerous than other countries in western Europe, though travelers should exercise common sense and remain aware of their surroundings. Petty thievery is the most common threat for visitors. Pickpockets and purse snatchers are as common in Spain as in any other modern Western country, especially in crowded areas and in large cities such as Madrid, Barcelona, Malaga and Seville. Always keep a hand on your purse or travel bag, especially at outdoor cafes. Never leave valuables in your car, and take a lock to secure your belongings if you're traveling by train. For five decades the Basque Country has had its own home-grown terrorist group, ETA, which has exported its campaigns to the rest of the country. In January 2011, however, ETA declared a permanent ceasefire. Security advisers still urge caution, however, as the group has broken ceasefires before, and there is always the possibility of a split in the movement with a renegade faction returning to violent tactics. In an emergency, dial 112 and ask for policia (police), ambulancia (ambulance) or bomberos (firefighters). This number can be dialed free of charge from any telephone, including mobiles. For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Health
Spain has modern medical and dental facilities, but take along all prescription and nonprescription drugs you'll need for your tripyour brand names might be unfamiliar to some pharmacies in Spain. In general, you can eat the food and drink the tap water throughout the country. The sun is quite strong, so take sunglasses, a hat and plenty of sunscreen. Be sure to take along a comfortable pair of walking shoes. For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
Facts
Dos & Don'ts
Do be careful where you light up. Spains antismoking law bans smoking in enclosed public spaces, which includes bars, restaurants, hotel lobbies, casinos, clubs, cinemas, theaters, office buildings, open-decked tourist buses and airports. Don't expect the language to sound the same as it does in Mexico or many other Spanish-speaking countries. For instance, the letter z and the letter c within a word are pronounced as th. (For example, Ibiza is pronounced e-BEETH-a). In Andalusia, the letter s is seldom pronounced, especially when it falls at the end of a word.
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher Do expect to get a lot of male attention if you're a woman traveling alone, especially in Andalusia or on the southern Mediterranean coast. The best response is no response at allany attention given is likely to be misinterpreted. Don't wear shorts in churches. In fact, it's best to save them for the beach. Spanish people generally dress well, especially in cities, and you will stand out as a tourist by wearing shorts, skimpy tops or other too-casual clothes. Do take a siesta. Outside the large cities (and in some cases, even within cities), museums, shops and businesses shut down for the afternoon siesta, generally 1-4 pm. It's an opportunity to refresh and recharge yourself, as well as to avoid the hottest part of the day. If you must be out, wander quietly through residential streets during those hours.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: Passport needed by citizens of the U.S. and Canada. A tourist visa is not required for a visit of up to three months. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure. Population: 40,491,051. Languages: Castilian Spanish (official). Catalan, Gallego, Basque and Valenciano have joint-official status in their respective regions. Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic). Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the end of March to the end of October. Voltage Requirements: 220 volts. 50 Hz. Telephone Codes: 34, country code; 91, city code for Madrid; 93, city code for Barcelona;
Money
Currency Exchange
The currency in Spain is the euro, which is divided into 100 cents. ATMsmost with instructions in Englishare located in all cities and most small towns, usually in or outside banks. Outside of normal banking hours, you gain access to ATMs by inserting your credit or cash card into a slot in the door. You can lock the door from inside. Most banks will change traveler's checks, but the commissions vary. Exchanging money is more streamlined at the big banks in city centers than at small local branches. Private exchange bureaus are located in the city centers, and most stay open until midnight or later. Although private bureaus generally don't charge commission, they tend to give a less favorable rate of exchange.
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Taxes
A value-added tax (called IVA) of 18% is added to the price of most goods and services. With a little paperwork, nonresidents from outside the European Union can obtain a tax refund for purchases made in Spain. To obtain the refund, you must spend more than 90 euros in a single store displaying a "tax-free" sticker. You won't get all the tax back, because part of it is retained as a commission. You need to present three things to the VAT refund officer at the airport before departure to get a refund: the article you purchased, the receipt and a refund form (which must be picked up at the place of purchase). Note that only unused articles are eligible for a refund. If everything is in order, the VAT refund officer will give you a final form to be mailed in for your refund. (For your own convenience, see the VAT officer before checking your bags and have your purchases in an easy-to-reach place.) Some larger stores have a streamlined process: They handle most of the paperwork and then mail the refund to you, sometimes minus a fee. Private VAT refund services, located at the airport, will give you an immediate refund minus a fee, which is usually a percentage of the refund. If you are traveling to other countries in the European Union, you can claim your refunds only at your exit point from the EU. In other words, if you buy goods in Spain, then travel on to Portugal and France, and later depart the EU from Paris, you have to claim the VAT refunds from all three countries at the airport in Paris.
Tipping
Although a service charge is usually included in the bill, for good service in a restaurant you can tip 5%-10% of the total amount. Taxi drivers expect a tip of 10% of the fare.
Weather
The months April-June and September-October are the best times to visit. July and August are generally very hot, and it can be a bit cool in October in the higher elevations and in the north. Sweaters are often needed for evenings. Winter, though generally mild, can be rainy, foggy and windy. We think winter, even on the Costa del Sol, is on the cool sidemuch too cool to sunbathe and swim. It rains more on the Bay of Biscay coast and in the northwest (Galicia) than on the southern Mediterranean coast. The temperature cools dramatically at high altitudes.
What to Wear
Spain is a conservative country. In the cities, people dress stylishly and neatly. It's best to save shorts for the beach, and wear skirts, cropped trousers, fashionable long shorts or lightweight slacks in towns and cities. Never wear shorts in a church. The summer sun is intense, so take a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen to avoid overexposure. Take a light jacket or sweater with you for mornings and evenings in autumn and spring, and warmer clothes for the mountains or in the winter months. Above all, pack comfortable walking shoes. For business, men should wear plain, conservative business suits and tiesdark colors in winter, lighter in summer. Women should dress conservatively in a business environment.
Communication
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Telephone
Public pay phones accept coins, phone cards issued by Telefonica (Spanish Telecom) and credit cards. The phones have clear instructions in English. You can also find pay phones in many bars and cafes, although they tend to cost more. You can buy Telefonica phone cards at post offices, tobacco shops (estancos) and newsstands. In most cities you can make cheap international calls at phone centers, called locutorios, which offer discounted international connections. You make your call in a private booth and pay in cash when you're through. International or national calls from your hotel room are very expensive. Using your cell (mobile) phone abroad can also be expensive. Before traveling abroad, check with your cell phone provider regarding connectivity issues and usage rates. Regular Spanish phone numbers contain nine digits: The area code must be dialed for all calls, even if you are calling from within the same city or region. The area code for Madrid is 91, Barcelona is 93 and Seville is 95. For international calls, first dial 00, then the country code, then the area code and number. Call 1004 for assistance. Spanish cell phone numbers begin with 6, toll-free lines with 900 and special-rate services with 902. For directory assistance, dial 11822 for Spain or 11825 for international directory enquiries.
Internet Access
Internet access is available at cybercafes in the larger towns and cities. In metro areas, rates can be as low as 1 or 2 euros per hour. Many hotels, cafes and bars also offer free Wi-Fi access. WORKcenter is a chain of office-supply and support shops that also offers access to the Internet. It has multiple locations throughout Spain, including in Barcelona, Madrid, Seville and Valencia. For more information, see http://www.workcenter.es.

The postal service is generally reliable. Post offices (correos) can be found in most town centers with working hours that vary from office to office. In Madrid, larger post offices are typically open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-8:30 pm and Saturday 9:30 am-1 pm. Smaller offices may be closed on Saturday. Western Union services are also available through the post offices. For additional information, see http://www.correos.es/dinamic/plantillas/home1.asp.

The major Spanish national newspaper is El Pais. It produces an English insert for the International Herald Tribune. Other widely distributed dailies include ABC, El Mundo, La Vanguardia and El Periodico. Each region also has its own newspaper. In large cities and tourist resorts, you can find a good selection of international newspapers as well as local English-language publications that have entertainment, dining and nightlife information. These include Costa Blanca News, Sur in English and Majorca Daily Bulletin. There are also many informative Web sites run by expatriate residents, particularly in Barcelona, Madrid and on the Costa del Sol.
Transportation
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Air
Spain's two principal international airports are Madrid's Barajas Airport (MAD), which is 10 mi/16 km northeast of the city (http://www.madrid-mad.com), and Barcelona Airport (BCN), which is 6 mi/10 km southwest of Barcelona (http://www.barcelonaairport.com). European flights winging travelers to the Costa del Sol make use of Malaga Airport (AGP). http://www.aena.es. Spain also has 46 additional airports. Taxis are available at the major airports, and the fares are usually fixed according to destination, so don't be surprised if the driver doesn't turn on the meter.
Bus
Intercity buses serve many of the same major cities that trains do and for about the same cost. They are more popular than trains among Spaniards and are usually of a high standardcomfortable and reliable. If you're traveling to smaller towns, a bus may be the only option (other than driving). http://www.alsa.es.
Car
Roads are good, and major international car rental agencies are readily available throughout the country. The downside to driving is the trafficit can be horrible, especially in and around Madrid. Driving is on the right side of the road. When driving, talking on a cell phone is prohibited. By law, you must carry a spare set of light bulbs, a warning triangle and a yellow reflective jacketto be worn in the event of roadside emergencyin the passenger compartment, not the trunk. Citizens of the U.S. and Canada are required to have an International Driver's License (available in your home country through AAA or a similar automobile association).
Ferry
Ferries cross the Strait of Gibraltar to several towns in North Africa. Algeciras is the main departure point for ferries crossing to Tangier, Morocco (the most interesting of arrival points) and Ceuta. There is also daily catamaran service to Tangier from Tarifa. Melilla is served from Malaga and Almeria. Ferries also connect mainland Spain to the Balearic Islands and Canary Islands, but we'd recommend flying to those destinations. http://www.trasmediterranea.es.
Ship
Several cruise lines include stops in Barcelona, Cadiz, Algeciras, Malaga, and the Balearic Islands and Canary Islands.
Train
There's excellent domestic and international rail service, though you'll want to be careful to take the faster trains. Look for the high-speed AVE trains (http://www.renfe.es) or the speedy Talgo trains (http://www.raileurope.com). Many of the Talgos offer berths for overnight runs, as well as a dining car and bar. There are also several sightseeing trains. The Transcantabrico, a luxury narrow-gauge train, offers one-week trips (with escorted bus tours at each stop) between Santiago de Compostela and Leon. Regular service runs April-October. http://www.railspain.net.

Tourist Offices Madrid: Centro de Turismo Colon, Plaza de Colon, 28013 Madrid. Phone 34-91-588-1636. http://www.esmadrid.com.
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Courtesyof:ElenaNemtsova Tripcatcher Barcelona: Oficina de Turismo de Barcelona, Mirador de Colon, Plaza del Portal de la Pau, Barcelona. Phone 34-93-285-3834. http://www.barcelonaturisme.com. Canada: Spanish National Tourist Office, 2 Bloor St. W., 34th Floor, Toronto, ON M4W 3E2. Phone 416-961-3131. Fax 416-961-1992. U.S.: Spanish National Tourist Office, 60 E. 42nd St., 53rd Floor, New York, NY 10165. Phone 212-265-8822. Offices also located in Chicago, Miami and Beverly Hills, California. Spanish Embassies Canada: Embassy of the Kingdom of Spain, 74 Stanley St., Ottawa, ON K1M 1P4. Phone 613-747-2252. http://www.maec.es/subwebs/embajadas/ottawa. U.S.: Embassy of Spain, 2375 Pennsylvania Ave. N.W., Washington, DC 20037. Phone 202-452-0100. http://www.maec.es/subwebs/Embajadas/Washington. Foreign Embassies in Spain Canada: Canadian Embassy, Goya Building, 35 Nunez de Balboa, 28001 Madrid. Phone 34-914-233-250. http://www.canadainternational.gc.ca/spain-espagne. U.S.: U.S. Embassy, Serrano 75, 28006 Madrid. Phone 34-91-587-2200. http://madrid.usembassy.gov.
Recommended Guidebooks
Spain...A Culinary Road Trip by Mario Batali and Gwyneth Paltrow (Ecco).
Additional Reading
Barcelona by Robert Hughes. A wonderful book that captures the spirit of the city. Homage to Catalonia by George Orwell. The writer's interesting account of his service in the Spanish Civil War. Blood of Spain by Ronald Fraser. A collected oral history of the war. Moving and powerful. The New Spaniards by John Hooper. Classic account of Spain's modern history. Driving Over Lemons: An Optimist in Andalucia by Chris Stewart. The author's first-person account of settling in the Alpujarras, south of Granada. The Art of Flamenco by DE Pohren. A classic study of the subject by an American who went to Spain in the 1950s and fell in love with flamenco. Travellers in Spain by David Mitchell. An anthology presenting the history of Spain through the eyes of its foreign visitors, pen in hand.
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