AIO Fitted Gusset Tutorial

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TUTORIAL
Making an All‐in‐one (AIO) or Fitted with Internal Gussets

BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Firstly, making a nappy with gussets is very time consuming, much more so than making them without gussets. BUT, the end result is fabulous and
really can’t be beaten for containing explosive baby poo. I suggest you only cut out and make ONE nappy to begin with to see if you really want to
expend the time and energy in making numerous nappies with gussets.

Secondly, I did not create this method for making gussets, I have simply modified another version made for pocket nappies by someone else for my
own purposes and therefore do not wish to take credit for someone else’s work . My pattern however, is still entirely my own creation and is
unavailable to the general public at the current time. The original gusset tutorial and creator can be found online at:
http://diaperdivas.proboards57.com/index.cgi?board=sticky&action=display&thread=3659

Thirdly, you will need your own pattern to make this nappy. If you haven’t already got a pattern you wish to use, I have read that the Mama Bird
pattern is good for adding gussets due to the extra width in the crotch.

Finally, I suggest you pick a time when there will be no interruptions by little people (or even big people for that matter) as it really does require
some concentration the first, second and third times you make them.

OK, LET’S GET STARTED
To make an AIO or Fitted you will need the following items:
• Sewing Machine • Polyurethane laminate (PUL) or other
• Scissors waterproof material (AIOs only)
• Pins • Fleece or cotton outer material (optional) *
• Fabric marker • Microfleece, suedecloth or another fabric for
• Thread in colours to match both the inner lining the inner of the nappy (optional)
and outer of the nappy • Fasteners: Velcro/applix/touch tape or
• Absorbent material (cotton, microfibre, snaps. I find nappies with snaps are less
hemp, or bamboo) fiddly to make.
* Whilst cotton outer prints on AIOs look nice/pretty, be aware that they do tend to wick around the legs and back of the nappy. They are fine for
fitted nappies since there will be a cover over them anyway.

MAKING YOUR NAPPY
1. Following your pattern, cut out
a. Your outer material (either your PUL for AIO or absorbent layer for fitted)
b. A full body layer of absorbent fabric (to be hidden)
c. Layers of absorbent fabric to make up the internal
soaker (the size of these will depend on your
pattern and your pattern may give a guide as to
the size required). I recommend using a
combination of microfibre and bamboo or hemp.

2. Cut out the inner liner of the fabric (which may be another
layer of absorbent fabric if you would rather have more
natural fibres against baby’s bum) as follows:
a. PHOTO 1: Moving inner fabric in from the fold an
additional 4‐5 cm (about 2 inches) for the gussets, PHOTO 1
pin the pattern to the fabric.

Copyright © 2008 by Kira Jessup (DIYNappies.info)
Information may be copied and distributed for personal use only.
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Last Updated 15/1/09

3. Mark the centre of the front and back of each full boy piece (this will come in handy
later) and elastic markings.

4. PHOTO 2: Sew the internal booster pieces together (it doesn’t have to be neat) and
attach to the hidden full body layer of fabric.

5. PHOTOS 3&4: If using snaps as the fasteners, attach the socket snaps at the front of the PHOTO 2
nappy, onto the outer layers only, now before you sew pieces together. Make sure you
back the snaps with scrap pieces of PUL to help reinforce them if only using a single outer layer. Do not attach
the wing snaps just yet.

PHOTOS 3 & 4
6. PHOTOS 5&6: You should now have your pieces ready for sewing the body of the nappy. Put them together as
follows:
a. Full body hidden inner layer (with booster attached), booster side face down.
b. Outer layer, (if using PUL place the laminated, shiny side, face down).
c. Outer fleece/cotton layer right side up (OPTIONAL; for AIOs only)
d. Inner liner/absorbent layer right side down.

PHOTOS 5 & 6
7. PHOTO 7: Pin around the edges of the nappy (in the seam allowance if possible) starting at the centre front
and back then moving to the edges.

8. PHOTO 7: Figure out where you want your gusset to go and fold the fabric outwards towards the edge of the
nappy. Pin out of the way.

9. PHOTO 8: Beginning at the front of the nappy, start by sewing back and forth over the end of the first gusset
to secure it in place and continue around the entire edge of the nappy, securing all body layers together. Stop
sewing when to reach the other gusset at the front of the nappy and sew back and forth to secure.

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PHOTOS 7 & 8

10. You should have an opening at the front of the nappy for turning.

11. PHOTOS 9 & 10: Sew down one end of the back elastic by sewing back and forth. Continue sewing it in to the
next marking by pulling at 80% stretch and using 3‐step zig zag (or regular zig zag). Secure the other end in the
same way and cut the elastic. (NOTE: You can save time by sewing in the elastic as you go in step 8 instead of
doing it separately).
PHOTOS 9 & 10

12. Turn inside out and push out all the sewn edges. Check
there are no holes etc now and if there are, turn inside
out again and fix it.

13. Re‐pin at the front of the nappy using the centre marking PHOTO 11

to help line up the pieces.

14. PHOTO 11: The ends of both gussets will be sewn in so you should be able to “refold” them fairly easily only
this time ensure that they are folded inwards towards the centre of the nappy. This ensures that the gusset
wall at the front and back of the nappy can also help contain poo better. If you find you’ve accidentally done it
wrong, don’t unpick the entire nappy, it will still work, just remember to do it the other way next time. Pin
them down out of the way.

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15. Now you need to sew the leg and gusset elastic casings. Using your marks as a guide, start with the leg casings
first (making sure you switch thread on the bobbin to match the outer of the nappy). Depending upon the
width of your elastic, sew in about 1‐1.5cm from the edge of the nappy between markings.
16. When both legs are done, switch the thread in the bobbin to match the inner of the nappy.

17. Again, allowing 1‐1.5cm from the edge of the gusset, sew between markings on the gusset (if you haven’t
marked the gusset, get a ruler and lie it between the top markings for the leg and mark, and then again for the
bottom). Make sure the nappy is pulled out of the way so you don’t accidentally catch it.

18. PHOTOS 12 & 13: Now you have 4 casings ready to thread with elastic. To figure out how much you will need
for each casing, as a rough guide I lay the elastic flat, un‐stretched, between markings for one leg. I add about
1‐2 inches (depending upon how stretchy the elastic is) and then cut the elastic. I then cut another one the
same length and then cut these 2 pieces in half, so you end up with 4 pieces.
PHOTOS 12 & 13

19. Switch the thread in the bobbin back to match the outer of the nappy.

20. Un‐pin the front of the nappy.

21. PHOTO 14: Put a safety pin on each end of a piece of elastic and thread through
the outer leg casing. Having one each end means that if the other end
accidentally gets pulled into the casing you can easily thread it back out again.

22. Making sure the safety pin is out of the way; sew down the first end of the
elastic (closest to the BACK of the nappy).
PHOTO 14
23. Pull the other end through making sure the safety pin is just out of the way, and
sew the other end down.

24. Remove the 2 safety pins from the elastic.

25. Repeat steps 19‐22 for the other leg.

26. Switch the thread in the bobbin back to match the inner of the nappy.

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27. Put a safety pin on each end of a piece of elastic and thread through the gusset.

28. Making sure the safety pin is out of the way; sew down the first end of the elastic (closest to the BACK of the
nappy).

29. Pull the other end through making sure the safety pin is just out of the way, and sew the other end down.

30. Remove the 2 safety pins from the elastic.

31. Repeat steps 25‐28 for the other gusset.

32. PHOTO 15: All elastic is now sewn in.

33. Switch the thread in the bobbin back to the outer nappy colour.

34. Re‐pin the opening at the front of the nappy closed, turning the
edges to the inside of the nappy.

35. Topstitch around the front of the nappy to close the opening.

36. Topstitch around the wings of the nappy.
PHOTO 15
37. You now need to attach the final snaps or Velcro/Applix/touch
tape.

SNAPS:
1. PHOTOS 16, 17 & 18: Attach the stud snaps (and socket snaps if having cross‐over tabs) on the wings of the
nappy through all layers.
PHOTOS 16, 17 & 18

2. Test that the snaps work with each of the snaps on the front of the nappy. If any don’t work, take them off and
replace them.

3. You are done, go and try it on your baby!

VELCRO/APPLIX/TOUCH TAPE
NOTE: I recommend rounding all the corners to prevent your baby from getting scratched. Also, I don’t sew it on beforehand as many patterns
recommend as I find the nappy doesn’t sit properly if I do. It may just be me..???? So I will leave it up to you.

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1. PHOTOS 18 & 19: Cut the loop to length for the front of the nappy and pin in place. Also pin the gussets on the
inside of the nappy in place (bearing in mind where you will actually be sewing) as it will be less likely to shift
around and look “messy” when done.

PHOTOS 18 & 19

2. Sew the loop in place through all layers and remove pins.

3. Cut 2 pieces of loop about 3‐4cm in length and 2 pieces of hook about 3‐4cm in length for the wings.

4. Place a piece of hook and a piece of loop back to back. You can pin but I find it quicker (and easier) not to.
Starting half way along the long edge, sew around to the same point on the other side.

5. Leaving the needle down, lift up the presser foot and insert the wing between the pieces of hook and loop into
the correct position (make sure the hook is on the inside of the nappy and the loop on the outer).

6. Lower the presser foot and continue sewing around the hook and loop until it is secured onto the nappy and
you get back to the starting point.

7. Repeat steps 4‐6 for the other wing.

8. Cut 2 pieces of loop 2‐3cm in length for the fold‐back laundry tabs.

9. Attach the newly cut loop to the hook on one of the wings and fold inwards to find the position for the loop.

10. Holding the loop in position, pull off the hook and pin the loop in place.

11. Sew around the loop to secure it (again, check the thread in the bobbin matches the nappy outer).

12. Repeat steps 9‐11 for the other wing.

13. You are now done, go and try it on your baby!

Finished nappy photos:

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AIO Fitted Gusset Tutorial

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13. Re‐pin at the front of the nappy using the centre marking PHOTO 11

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