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Seam allowance throughout is 1cm unless otherwise stated.

You can use the width of your foot if you prefer – just use the same seam allowance throughout.

To make this Cosmetic bag you need: 30cm of main fabric 30cm lining fabric 30cm of contrast fabric for bias strips and handles 1 small piece of Lamifix (optional) can use metallic bag feet as an alternative (also optional) 50cm stiff interfacing small piece of very stiff interfacing for bag base (can also insert plastic bag base piece) 30cm Thin wadding 1m piping cord 0.5m endless zip in matching colour (match to main fabric) 1 strip fusible web (as used in applique) Thick cord for handles – can also use thin plastic tubing CUTTING OUT: PLEASE NOTE: direction of pattern placing on fabric is indicated by the writing on the pattern piece.

CORRECT:

INCORRECT:

FOCUS FABRIC (Main outer bag fabric): Cut 2 x Piece A ‘Front & Back’ Cut 2 x Piece B ‘Base of zip’ Cut 2 x Piece C ‘Zip strips’ Cut 1 x Piece D ‘Bag Base ‘ Cut the same pieces in lining fabric From larger piece of iron-on interfacing (Interfacing A) AND from the ‘puffy’ interfacing (Interfacing B): Cut 2 x Piece A ‘Front & Back’ Cut 2 x Piece B ‘Base of zip’ Cut 2 x Piece C ‘Zip strips’ Out of ONLY Interfacing A cut out:

2 x 50cm x 7cm strips for the handles

Iron interfacing A on to the wrong side of all the lining pieces. Place Interfacing B behind each Focus fabric piece. From small piece of stiff interfacing Cut 1 x Piece D Bag Base Cut 1 x Piece D in Lamifix (fusible plastic) You can read my review of Lamifix here: http://bydi.blogspot.de/2012/07/making-fabric-waterresistant.html CUT FROM CONTRAST FABRIC: 2 x 50cm x 7cm strips for the handles – iron on the interfacing you cut for these on the wrong side of them 2 x tabs 10cm x 6cm Also in your pack: Bias strips in contrast fabric Piping cord Thick cord for handles 1x 50cm (endless) zip with zip head Thin strips of Bond-a-web to make piping cord

To add the zip head to the endless zip, please watch this short video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gf1hKvZA1As&feature=g-upl A good idea here is to take a lighter (flame) & carefully melt the teeth together at each end of the zip so that you cannot accidentally pull the zip head off again. Please do this carefully as zips are made of synthetic material that is very flammable! Do not burn the zip, just melt the teeth enough to stick them together. Apply Vlieseline Lamifix to the right side of the base piece of cosmetic bag Follow manufacturer’s instructions http://www.vlieseline.de/English/Products/Interfacings/Creative_R ange/Lamifix.htm My review here: http://bydi.blogspot.de/2012/07/making-fabric-waterresistant.html Please remember that it not ideal to wash this plastic coating, so if you need to wash this bag often, rather skip adding this plastic coating – you may then wish to add 4 metallic bag feet to the base of the bag. For your information, not part of this tutorial: Bag feet are not included in your pack. They look like:

They come in various colours and sizes, and are very simple to apply. Mark where to place the feet on the bag base, iron on small squares of interfacing on the wrong side of the bag base (inside) at these marks. Make two small slits for the prongs to go through with your quick unpick, slide the prongs through these slits, bend the prongs out at a 90 degree angle. Iron interfacing over the prongs to secure. Apply the thicker (stiffer) piece of interfacing to the wrong side of the FOCUS FABRIC Base piece (that you have just added the lamifix to the right side of). Take your two tab pieces you cut in your contrast fabric (10cm x 6cm)

Fold your small tabs in half length wise (right sides together) & iron down

Stitch down open side, quite close to edge.

Turn right way around, iron flat, fold in half and iron down. I find a chop stick or a larger crochet hook useful to turn these pieces right way around – do not use anything too pointy – it can poke through & make holes!

Put aside for now Your bias strips have been cut for you, and are included in your pack. You are going to make the piping cord from these strips. If you make another bag in the future & you are not sure how to cut the strips, please follow these steps: Cut your strip on the bias. This means at a 45 degree to the grainline. This is made simple with a rotary board with the necessary markings - usually sold for patchwork. Then place this 45 degree line along one of the ruled lines on the mat & cut each strip 5cm wide.

You will need to cut quite a few strips (depending on how many meters you need for your project), and then join them on the diagonal Now join your (5cm wide) bias strips as follows:

Match up the rough edges, stitch together. I have discovered a little trick to make this easy:

http://bydi.blogspot.de/2012/08/the-trick-to-joining-bias-strips.html

Iron open the joins

Cut off the corners that stick out beyond the tape as well as any threads from stitching up your strip. Take the strips of Bond-a-Web in your pack & iron these down just off centre of the bias tape you have made, the entire length of the tape. Place the Bond-a-Web so that the cord will be kept snugly in place when you iron it down. Place piping cord down the center of the joined strip, starting at one end, pull off the paper from the Bond-a-Web and iron the two sides of the bias strip together, matching the long edges and keeping the piping cord down the centre, snugly in place. Put your zip foot onto your machine. Placing one Bag Piece A (Front / Back) with the ’fluffy’ interfacing behind it, add the piping cord to the curved edge. Do same to other Piece A

Make snips through ONLY the puffy interfacing & Bag piece A as shown in diagram below (in blue). Snip from edge to seam, BUT be VERY careful not to cut through the stitching!! It is better to use only the tip of very sharp scissors so that you have more control (rather than cutting with the middle of the blade of your pair of scissors).

Now take One Piece C (with fluffy interfacing on the wrong side matched up) and place it right side up with the zip on top, right side down & join – still using your zip foot.

Your pack includes a longer zip than this project requires so that you can leave the head of the zip off your working area and out

of the way, making it easier to stitch down!

Once seam is stitched, open this seam out well & pin to zip salvage to keep 1st piece C out of the way as you stitch the 2nd

Piece C onto the other side of the zip.

Match the top ends of C & stitch down.

Now open out & pin flat

Pin one of the tabs you made over the zip (the end without the head) Do not worry if the two ends of Piece C do not match up 100% perfectly – you will see mine do not either.

Place Piece B (with fluffy interfacing on wrong side of it, matched up) right sides together with this seam

Stitch this seam together, using your normal sewing machine foot & use a 1cm seam allowance. Go slowly over the zip’s teeth, your machine can sew through them, do not be frightened, trust your machine... just go nice & slow. Trim off any excess zip. This is what you now have this ***

My sewing machine is just holding it in place for the photo, we are not stitching here  Pop your zip foot back on. Place Piece B (with fluffy interfcing matched up on the wrong side) right side down on right side of one end of piped Piece A (Front/ Back). Match up the edges as shown (purple arrows) below

Stitch along stitching that held piping on as best as possible, stop 3cm from the edge of Piece B. Place a pin *in at the point where

Piece B would join to A (yellow arrows below)

Now pick up (now joined) piece B & C from *** Match B end of this piece to the opposite end of same A Piece and start stitching these together along, sticking as much as possible to the line of stitching already in place to add the piping to Piece A.

Keep going matching the edges of A (blue arrows) to the edges of C (Purple arrows) until you get 2cm away from the pin you placed *

Move the head of the zip out of your way by unzipping the zip.

Pin the two sides flat

Join this edge to the end of B, at the correct place so that B remains exactly the same size.

Add the other tab in as you get near the zip

Use a pin to hold the zip together so that your fingers are nowhere near the machine’s needle, but the zip’s teeth stay together

This is what you should have:

Trim off excess zip Stitch the gap left up, continuing to follow the stitching holding the piping to piece A.

This is what you should have Piece B on either end is the same size

Add the other Piece A to the other edge along the red arrows in the picture below

This is what you now have:

Unzip the zip Turn wrong side out Start at one corner & start attaching Bag Base D

Sew to the next matching corner, then leave needle down in fabric holding it in place, lift foot, swivel top fabric (bag top) to match the next seam (at a right angle to the one you have just joined) put foot down again, sew to next corner, matching the egdes up as you go

Flatten the piping to the outside each time & stop with your needle in the piping cord when you turn the corner. Continue until base completely added to the bag top. Trim off excess seam allowance & trim off the corners being careful not to cut through any stitching. This will help the corners turn out nicely.

Turn the bag the right way around. Flatten the seams

Place some clips (or clothes pegs, hairclips...) to hold it in place & „train“ the fabric to go the right way.

Now we will make our handles. Take the two stips you cut in contrast fabric 2 x 50cm x 7cm strips for the handles Take one:

Fold 1cm on each short end towards the wrong side of the fabric, iron in place

Fold in a 2mm seam on each long edge of the fabric, iron in place

Fold in half down long side, matching the edges

Starting at the short open end, stitch together. When you get to the corner, leave your machine needle down, lift foot, swivel fabric & carry on sewing the seams together.

When you get to the other end, you may have to fold the corners under so they do not stick out. Use a pin to hold in place while you

sew. This keeps fingers out of harms way!

Now take your thick piping cord and place in centre of this strap, leaving the 1st 3cm free Fold strap in half around the cord

Using your zip foot again, stitch two edges together, trapping the cord between them.

Keep going until you are 3cm away from other edge. STOP stitching, back stitch, cut cord close to stitching.

Cut one of the handle positioning squares out of your pattern piece A and lay it over one side of your bag, using a magic fabric

marker, draw this square in.

Flip the pattern piece over & draw the other square for the other side of the handle You now have two placement squares Repeat for other side of bag

On the inside of the bag iron on two blocks of interfacing about 4cm square in the same place as the (purple) squares on the outside of the bag. This is to reinforce the handle.

Line one side of handle with one block

Place needle directly over stitching

Start stitching. When you get to corner, put machine needle down (into fabric), lift foot, swivel fabric, carry on.

Sew a cross through the middle of the block you have sewn.

Repeat for other side of handle making sure you do not twist the handle as you place the 2nd side. Repeat for 2nd handle. Put the outer bag aside, as we will now sew up our lining. LINING: Zig zag one long side of each Piece C.

Fold this seam under 1cm to the wrong side of the fabric and iron

in place.

Join these to one piece B, using the width of Piece B as a placement guide for each C piece.

Iron flat

Place the other Piece B on one end of A – right sides together, and stitch down (using a 1.5cm seam allowance) until 3cm from the edge of piece B

Starting at the other bottom corner of Piece A, start joining the joined piece made up of one B and 2 C pieces.

(sewing machine is just holding piece in place for photo – we will not stitch here!)

Place a pin where the yellow arrow shows in picture above (edge of Piece B) Use the same seam allowance as you used for the Main Bag

Stitch around curve of A until you are 2cm away from the pin you placed

Now join B to C at this point

Now go back over the edge seam of A where you left a gap to close up the gap

Repeat for the other A piece

You now have:

Add the base piece on to this, the same way you did for Bag Base. It will be easier as there is no piping cord to deal with.

You now have:

The Bag Outer & the inner Trim all the seam allowance from inner bag, being careful not to snip through stitching Place the inner bag right side out inside the outer bag

Match up the seams of the two bags so that the curves of Piece A match up, and the bag bases match up. Now stitch the inner onto the outer at the zip seam Make sure your bobbin thread matches your outer bag as the stitches will be seen from the outside. You can also do this by hand if you prefer

Do this on both sides

Stitch the open ends of the bag inner to the bag outer by hand, closing all the gaps between them. Keep your stitches small so they are not too visible. Well done! You have completed your bag!