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Disaster Preparation and Survival
The following is an informed compilation of information from recent natural disasters with details on how and why to have been prepared. These are real-time observations compiled from countless people, involved in recent massive & destructive earthquakes, hurricanes and other natural disasters. Part One – General Preparation & Survival Part Two – Finding & treating water after a disaster Part Three – Firearms best suited for survival after a disaster
1. Have a bug-out kit ready at all times. Without any prior preparation, many folks will pack at the last minute, grabbing whatever they think they'll need. Needless to say, many will forget some important things (prescription medications, important documents, baby formula, diapers, etc.). Some of these things (e.g. prescriptions) obviously can't be stocked up against possible emergency need, but you can at least have a list in your bug-out kit of what to grab at the last minute before you leave! 2. Renew supplies in your bug-out kit on a regular basis. Batteries lose their charge. Foods have an expiration date. So do common medications. Clothes can get moldy or dirty unless properly stored. All of these problems were found with the folks who kept backup or bug-out supplies on hand, and caused difficulties for them. 3. Plan on needing a LOT more supplies than you think. You will find yourself in and among hundreds; maybe thousands of refugees and the stores will be swamped with literally thousands of refugees on top of that buying up everything in sight. A common best practice is to have enough supplies to keep you going for 30 days. Know that you may wind up providing for not just for yourself, but others in need. You could be selfish and say "No, these are mine" - but what good would that do in a real disaster? Someone would just try to take them, and then we'd have all the resulting unpleasantness. Far better to have extra supplies to share with others, whilst keeping your own core reserve intact (and, preferably, hidden from prying eyes!). In addition, extra supplies can be used to barter for those things you may have forgotten. 4. In a real emergency, forget about last-minute purchases. The stores still open will be swamped by thousands of refugees, as well as locals buying up last-minute supplies. If you don’t have emergency supplies already stored, you will never be able to buy them at the last minute. If you have to hit the road, the situation will be even worse, as you’ll be part of a stream of thousands of refugees, most of whom will be buying (or stealing) what they need. 5. Make sure your vehicle will carry your essential supplies. Some people will try to load up their cars with a humongous amount of stuff, only to find that they don’t have space for themselves! Pets are a particular problem here, as they have to have air and light, and can't be crammed into odd corners. If you have to carry a lot of supplies and a number of people, invest in a small luggage trailer or something similar (or a small travel trailer with space for your goodies) - it'll pay dividends if the Shit really does hit the Fan! 6. A big bug-out vehicle can be a handicap. Some people think that those raised up, supped up 4 wheel drives with or without the 100’ travel trailers are the way to go – WRONG! On some evacuation routes, these huge combinations can not navigate corners very well, and/or will be so difficult to turn that they run into things (including other vehicles, which are NOT about to make way in the stress of an evacuation!). It's not a bad idea to have smaller, more maneuverable vehicles, and a smaller travel trailer, so that one can "squeeze through" in a tight traffic situation. Another point a big SUV or pickup burns a lot of fuel! This is bad news when there's no fuel available! 7. Make sure you have a bug-out place handy. The fortunate person will plan ahead and ensure that they have enough ground (about 1.8 acres) to provide parking RV's and trailers, and to accommodate friends and relatives seeking shelter. Even places like Wal-Mart and K-Mart had trailers and RV's backed up in their parking lots (which annoyed the heck out of
shoppers trying to make last-minute purchases they had to drive their RV's and trailers somewhere else to empty their waste tanks. Be prepared to join long, long lines to empty waste tanks at local trailer parks. 8. Provide entertainment for younger children. Some families will have young children (all ranges from those able to walk to teens). They will invariably grad the DVD's, video games, etc. - but will have no power available in their trailers or elsewhere to show them! If they have no coloring books, toys, reading books, battery operated games etc. to keep the kids occupied. This will be a bad mistake! 9. Pack essentials first, then luxuries. Many people will pack crazy stuff like mattresses off beds, comforters, cushions, bathrobes, furniture, TV’s etc. As a result, their vehicles will be grossly overloaded, lacking real essentials like candles, non-perishable foods, etc. People will grab things which make no sense to carry in the situation they find themselves in because of some preconceived or emotional attachment. Some things you find out later you wish you had with you, but didn’t bring (I.E. like a firearm, knife or first aid kit) may have a direct affect on your life! and the lives of family members. 10. Don't plan on fuel being available en route. You will have real problems finding gas to fill up on the road. With thousands of vehicles jammed nose-to-tail on four lanes of interstate, an awful lot of vehicles will need gas. By the time you get to a gas station, you were highly likely to find it sold out - or charging exorbitant prices, because the owners know you didn't have any choice but to pay what they asked. Much better to leave with a full tank of gas, and enough in spare containers to fill up on the road, if you have to, in order to reach your destination. 11. Have enough money with you for at least two weeks. Many people make the mistake of having very little in cash, relying on check-books and credit cards to fund their purchases. Many banks during a natural disaster will be off-line, and their balances, credit authorizations, etc. may be impossible to check - so many shops may refuse to accept checks, and insist on electronic verification before accepting their credit cards. Local banks may refuse to cash checks for people , since they couldn't check the status of their accounts on-line. Eventually local banks may begin allowing people to cash checks for not more than $50-$100 or so, depending on the bank. The fortunate, will have a reasonable amount of cash available at all times. Don't bring only large bills. Many gas stations, convenience stores, etc. won't accept anything larger than a $20 bill. 12. Don't be sure that a disaster will be short-term. In the disaster area, the local authorities or governor may require a mandatory evacuation. During that period, what they have with them - essential documents, clothing, etc. - is all they have. They'll have to find new doctors to renew prescriptions; find a place to live (a FEMA trailer if they're lucky - thousands of families will be lining up for these trailers); some way to earn a living (their jobs are gone with New Orleans, and I don't see their employers paying them for not working when the employers aren't making money either); and so on. 13. Don't rely on government-run shelters if at all possible. Your weapons WILL be confiscated (yes, including pocketknives, kitchen knives, and Leatherman-type tools); you will be crowded into close proximity with anyone and everyone (including some nice folks, but also including drug addicts, released convicts, gang types, and so on); you will be under the authority of the people running the shelter, who WILL call on law enforcement and military personnel to keep order (including stopping you leaving if you want to); and so on. Much, much better to have a place to go to, a plan to get there, and the supplies you need to do so on your own. 14. Warn your friends not to bring others with them!!! You will have friends who will ask to bring themselves and their families to your home. If you are a place of refuge for your friends, make sure they know that this applies to them ONLY, not their other friends. Similarly, if you have someone willing to offer you refuge, don't presume on his/her hospitality by arriving with others unforewarned. 15. Have account numbers, contact addresses and telephone numbers for all important persons and institutions. Many people will have to get new postal addresses, and will have to notify others of this their doctors, insurance companies (medical, personal, vehicle and property), bank(s), credit card issuer(s), utility supplier(s), telephone supplier(s), etc. Basically, anyone who sends you bills, or to whom you owe money, or who might owe you money. Many people will not bring this information with them. Now, when they need to change postal addresses for correspondence, insurance claims, etc., how can they do this when they don't know their account numbers, what number to call, who and where to write, etc.?
16. Have portable weapons and ammo ready to hand. You don't have to take your entire arsenal along. Firearms for personal defense come first, then firearms for life support through hunting (and don't forget the skinning knife!). A fishing outfit might not be a bad idea either (you can shoot bait!). Other than that, leave the rest of your guns in the safe (you do have a gun safe, securely bolted to the floor, don't you?), and the bulk ammo supplies too. Bring enough ammo to keep you secure, but no more. If you really need bulk supplies of guns and ammo, they should be waiting for you at your bug-out location, not occupying space (and taking up a heck of a lot of weight!) in your vehicle. 17. People who were prepared were frequently mobbed/threatened by those who weren't. This was reported in several incidents. In each case, the person/family concerned had made preparations for disaster, with supplies, shelter, etc. in good order and ready to go. Several had generators ready and waiting. However, their neighbors who had not prepared all came running after the disaster, wanting food, water and shelter from them. When the prepared families refused, on the grounds that they had very little, and that only enough for themselves, there were many incidents of aggression, attempted assault, and theft of their supplies. Some had to use weapons to deter attack, and in some cases, shots were fired. Similar incidents are reported by families who got out in time, prepared to spend several days on their own. When they stopped to eat a picnic meal at a rest stop, or an isolated spot along the highway, they report being approached rather aggressively by others wanting food, or fuel, or other essentials. Sometimes they had to be rather aggressive in their turn to deter these insistent requests. Two families report attempts being made to steal their belongings (in one case, their vehicle) while over-nighting in camp stops on their way out of the area. They both instituted armed patrols, with one or more family members patrolling while the others slept, to prevent this. 18. When help gets there, you may get it whether you like it or not. There are numerous reports of aggressive, overbearing behavior by those rescuers who first arrived at disaster scenes. It's perhaps best described as "I'm here to rescue you - I'm in charge - do as I say - if you don't I'll shoot you". It appears that mid-level State functionaries and Red Cross personnel (the latter without the "shoot you" aspect, of course) were complained about most often. In one incident, a family who had prepared and survived quite well were ordered, not invited, to get onto a truck, with only the clothes on their backs. When they objected, they were threatened. They had pets, and wanted to know what would happen to them and they report that a uniformed man (agency unknown) began pointing his rifle at the pets with the words "I'll fix that". The husband then trained his own shotgun on the man and explained to him, in words of approximately one syllable, what was going to happen to him if he fired a shot. The whole "rescuer" group then left, threatening dire consequences for the family (including threats to come back once they'd evacuated and torch their home). The family was able to make contact with a State Police patrol and report the incident, and are now determined that no matter how much pressure is applied, they will not evacuate. They've set up a "shuttle run" so that every few days, two of them go upstate to collect supplies for the rest of the family, who defend the homestead in the meantime. Another aspect of this is that self-sufficient, responsible families were often regarded almost with suspicion by rescuers. The latter seemed to believe that if you'd come through the disaster better than your neighbors, it could only have been because you stole what you needed, or somehow gained some sort of unfair advantage over the "average victims" in your area. I'm at a loss to explain this, but it's probably worth keeping in mind. 19. Expect rescuers (including law enforcement) to enforce a distinctly un-Constitutional authority in a disaster situation. This is very widely reported, and is very troubling. I hear repeated reports from numerous States that as evacuees arrive at refugee centers, they and their belongings are searched without Constitutional authority and any personal belongings seen as potentially suspicious (including firearms, prescription medication, etc.) are confiscated without recourse to the owner. I can understand the point of view of the receiving authorities, but they have acted illegally, and I suspect there will be lawsuits coming from this practice. Another common practice reported on the ground in the disaster areas is for people to be ordered to evacuate, irrespective of their needs and wishes - even those folks who were wellprepared and have survived in good shape. If they demur, they are often threatened and bullied in an attempt to make them abandon their homes, pets, etc. Lesson learned in a disaster; don't expect legal and Constitutional norms to be followed. If you can make it on your own, do so, without relying on an unsympathetic and occasionally overbearing rescue system to control you and your destiny. 20. Don't believe that rescuers are all knights in shining armor who will respect your property. There have been numerous reports of rescuers casually appropriating small items that took their fancy in houses they were searching. Sometimes this was blatant, right in front of onlookers, and when protests were made, the response was either threatening, or a casual "Who's going to miss it now?". Some field agents report that this happened right in front of their eyes. Another aspect of this is damage caused to buildings by rescuers. I've had reports of them kicking in the front door to a house, or a
window, instead of trying to obtain access with as little damage as possible; climbing on clean, highly-polished tables with hobnailed boots in order to get at an attic hatch to check for survivors; etc. When they left the house, often the door or window was left open, almost a standing invitation to looters, instead of being closed and/or secured. When the families concerned get home, they won't know who caused this damage, but they will certainly be angered by it. I think that if one evacuates one's home, it might be a good idea to leave a clearly-visible notice that all residents have evacuated, so as to let would-be rescuers know that this house is empty. On the other hand, this might make it easier for looters, so what you gain on the swings, you lose on the round-abouts... 21. Law enforcement problems will often be "glossed over" and/or ignored by authorities. In many cities housing evacuees, there have been private reports of a significant increase in crime caused by their presence but you'll find that virtually all law enforcement authorities publicly deny this and/or gloss over it as a "temporary problem". This is all very well for publicity, but it ignores the increased risk to local residents. 22. Those who thought themselves safe from the disaster were often not safe from refugees. There have been many reports of smaller towns, farms, etc. on the fringe of the disaster area being overrun with those seeking assistance. In many cases, assistance was demanded rather than requested, and theft, looting and vandalism have been reported. So, even if you think you're safe from the disaster, you may not be safe from its aftermath. 23. Self-reliance seems to draw suspicion upon you from the authorities. For reasons unknown and unfathomable, rescue authorities seem to regard with suspicion those who've made provision for their safety and have survived (or bugged out) in good shape. It seems to be a combination of "How could you cope when so many others haven't?", "You must have taken advantage of others to be so well off", and "We've come all this way to help, so how dare you not need our assistance?" I have no idea why this should be the case... but there have been enough reports of it that it seems to be a widespread problem. 1) Always fill your car's gas tank when it gets down to half a tank to avoid being caught without gasoline. 2) Learn several different ways to drive out of your town without using the major highways so that you will know the back roads well in case you have to evacuate. 3) Keep a stock of canned goods that can be eaten without cooking if necessary. 4) Store several gallons of water in half gallon plastic juice bottles as blocks of ice in the freezer. Being somewhat prepared can be almost free. 5) You won't have problems if you are prepared for them. (Unless a government employee shows up to "help.") 6) Have sufficient supplies on hand to be self-sustaining for 3 days (minimum) to 1 week. 7) Don't live in stupid places - like former flood-zones, active earthquake areas, low level coastal areas, overgrown forested areas where dead growth has not been cleared due to restrictions lobbied by environmental groups etc. 8) You will be forced to leave several possessions behind. Be prepared for this and be smart about what you and don’t take! 9) Plan ahead and prepare!
Find hidden water supplies in an emergency
Hidden water supplies are unusual and emergency places to find water if your water supplies are gone. Water supplies can become damaged in an emergency which can lead to contamination of normal water supplies.
What are some hidden sources of water inside your home?
Water can be drained from the drain spout of a water heater. Be sure the electricity and/or gas are off before opening the drain. Drain the water into a storage container. Water can be drained from the pipes inside your home. Open a faucet on the top floor of your home. Next go to the faucet at the lowest point in your home. Open the faucet and drain out the water you need into a storage container.
Water from your toilet storage, or reserve tank, can be used if no chemicals have been used in this tank. Do not use this water if it is blue in color because chemicals have been used. Water that has been placed in ice cube trays in the freezer can be used.
What are some hidden sources of water outside your home?
These sources can be considered as a potential source; however, they may contain chemical or bacterial pollutants which could be hazardous to your health. Rainwater Rivers and Streams Ponds Lakes Natural Springs Boil water from these sources for at least 10 minutes prior to drinking. CAUTION: Chemical pollutants will not be removed by boiling.
What are water sources to be avoided?
Avoid water that contains solid materials, has an odor, or has a dark color.
How to prepare safe water after a disaster How does water become contaminated in a disaster situation?
A disaster such as a flood or an earthquake may contaminate water when sewage systems are damaged or when there are breaks in the water lines. Contaminated water can cause many illnesses. It is best to have a supply of water on hand to prepare for these times; however, this fact sheet will help you if you did not plan ahead, and you need to find purified water now.
How will I know if my water has been contaminated?
When it is suspected that water supplies have been contaminated with sewage, there will be a public announcement to boil the water. This is known as a "boil water order." If there is any chance of your water being contaminated, do not drink it or use it for food preparation or tooth brushing.
How can I identify purified water?
Purified water can be prepared by anyone at home, or it can be purchased. Instructions are provided below on how to purify water at home. Canned drinks, such as juices, pop, or beer can be considered purified. Boiling water kills bacteria, viruses, and parasites that can cause illness. Treating water with chlorine bleach kills most disease causing bacteria and viruses; however it probably will not kill parasites. Boiling is a more effective water purification method than treating water with chlorine bleach. People who have weakened immune systems and who are in an area where the water has been contaminated should always rely on boiling as their home water purification method, or they should buy distilled bottled water or canned drinks. Use purified water within six months of its purification or purchase date to assure safety and obtain the best quality.
How do I boil water to purify it?
Fill a large pot with water after straining the water through a coffee filter or cheesecloth to remove dirt and other particles. Bring the water to a rolling boil and keep it boiling for 3 minutes. Pour the water into a disinfected drinking water bottle.
Store in the refrigerator, if possible.
How do I use chlorine bleach to purify water?
Strain the water through a coffee filter or cheesecloth to remove dirt and other particles. It is easiest to use gallon size drinking water containers to calculate the correct chlorine bleach solution. Pour a mixture of 1/8 teaspoon or 16 drops of pure, unscented, household chlorine bleach into the gallon size, purified drinking water container. Let this stand at least 30 minutes without drinking the water. If the water is still cloudy after 30 minutes, you may add an additional 1/8 teaspoon or 16 drops of chlorine bleach to the gallon size container. Let the water stand another 30 minutes. If the water is still cloudy after the second treatment do not drink the water. CAUTION: Do not use more chlorine bleach than recommended because excessive amounts can be poisonous!
What are the best types of containers to use to store water?
Use clean plastic or glass containers such as soft drink bottles or canning jars that have tight fitting screw caps. Do not use milk bottles - they do not seal well. Water containers should be disinfected before filling them with purified water the first time and disinfected again each time they are refilled.
How do I disinfect a drinking water container?
Containers can be purified either by using bleach as a chemical disinfectant or by boiling the container. Plastic containers cannot be boiled. Before using either method provided below to disinfect a container, wash the container thoroughly with soap and water, and rinse out the container with water.
How do I use bleach to disinfect a water container?
Pour a solution of 1 tablespoon of liquid household bleach to a gallon of water into the container. Let the solution remain in the container for 10 minutes, then pour out the solution. Rinse the container with purified water. Pour out the rinse water. Fill the container again with purified water, then cap the container for later use. Use the stored water within six months.
How do I boil a water container to disinfect it?
You may boil glass bottles or jars to disinfect them. In a large pan submerge the glass bottle or jar in water. Bring to a rolling boil and then boil the container for 10 minutes. Fill the glass bottles and jars with purified water and cap the container for later use. Use the stored water within six months.
What if I prefer to buy my drinking water?
There are many waters available for purchase. Keep the water in its original sealed container until you plan to drink it. Use the water after the container is open. Do not store it further. Commercially canned or bottled drinks are always considered safe to drink.
Can I depend on water treatment devices to purify water adequately in these situations?
NO. Most home water treatment systems have not been designed to treat turbid, contaminated drinking water. The filter can become clogged quickly reducing fixture output or overloading the filter, and providing no protection against bacteria and viruses in the water.
Disinfection of private wells Why would a private well need to be disinfected?
Safe drinking water must be free of harmful chemicals and disease-producing germs. These germs can cause illnesses such as giardiasis, gastroenteritis, and hepatitis. When there is damage to a well or the well has been flooded, disease causing germs and chemicals can flow into the well water. The purpose of disinfection is to kill or inactivate all disease causing germs that may be present. Chemical contaminants are more difficult to eliminate. Consult the public health department for advice on dealing with chemical contaminants.
What should I do if I suspect that well water is contaminated?
Laboratory tests can identify specific chemicals and a group of bacteria called "coliform." The presence of coliform indicates possible fecal contamination and a potential health hazard.
How do I get well water tested?
Public Health will test water for the presence of coliform, but does not offer testing for chemicals. There is a charge for the test. A test kit can be obtained from your local public health department office. Private laboratories also test water for coliforms. They will also test for chemical contamination. A listing of these laboratories can be found in the telephone book yellow pages under "laboratories - analytical."
What should I do when a test of my well water comes back as "unsatisfactory"?
If coliforms are found in the water, the well can be disinfected as described below. Liquid household chlorine bleach is an effective and economical disinfectant. Chlorine bleach is also available in a granule form.
How do I disinfect a bored or dug well?
CHLORINE BLEACH FOR A BORED OR DUG WELL Amount of 5.25% laundry bleach per Amount of 70% chlorine granules Diameter of well (in feet) foot of water per foot of water 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 1 1/2 cups 3 cups 4 1/2 cups 6 cups 9 cups 12 cups 18 cups 1 ounce 2 ounces 3 ounces 4 ounces 6 ounces 8 ounces 12 ounces
Measure the diameter of the well, and round the measurement to the nearest foot. (Example: 5.3 feet = 5 feet; 5.7 feet = 6 feet) Find the amount of chlorine bleach needed to disinfect each foot of water for the diameter well that you have measured. For example, the amount for a 5-foot diameter well would be 4-1/2 cups per foot. Determine the depth of the well in feet. Multiply this measurement by the computed amount of bleach to use. For a 5 foot diameter, 40 foot deep well: 1. Go to the chart that shows 4-1/2 cups of chlorine bleach per foot of water for a 5-foot diameter well. 2. Next multiply the 4-1/2 cups of chlorine bleach by the 40-foot depth of the well. 3. The total amount of chlorine bleach needed would be 4-1/2 times 40 or 180 cups of ?chlorine bleach. This is equal to 11.25 gallons using the conversion of 16 cups in one gallon.
Use an appropriately sized, clean container and pour the measured volume of chlorine bleach into the well. While pouring the chlorine bleach, try to splash some around the wall or lining of the well. Seal the well top. Open all faucets and pump the water until a strong odor of bleach is noticeable at each faucet. Then stop the pump and allow the solution to remain in the well overnight. The next day, turn on all the faucets and run the pump until all of the chlorine odor disappears. Be sure to adjust the flow of the water faucets or fixtures to a level that avoids overloading the septic system. After 5 days of normal usage, test water for coliform.
How do I disinfect a drilled well?
Calculate the amount of water in the well by multiplying the gallons per foot by the depth of the well in feet. For example, a well with a 6-inch diameter contains 1.5 gallons of water per foot. If the well is 120 feet deep, multiply 1.5 gallons per foot by 120 feet to get 180 gallons.
CHLORINE BLEACH FOR A DRILLED WELL Diameter of well (in inches) Gallons (per foot) 3 4 5 6 8 10 12 0.37 0.65 1.0 1.5 2.6 4.1 6.0
For each 100 gallons of water in the well, use the amount of chlorine bleach (liquid or granules) indicated in the table below.
AMOUNT OF DISINFECTANT REQUIRED FOR EACH 100 GALLONS OF WATER Chemical Amount Laundry bleach (5.25% Chlorine) 3 cups (*) Hypochloride Granules (70% Chlorine) 2 ounces (**) (*) 1 cup = 8 ounce measuring cup (**) 1 ounce = 2 heaping tablespoons of granules
Mix the total amount of liquid or granules with about 10 gallons of water. Remove the access nut on the well casing top. Use a funnel and pour the solution into the top of the well. Connect a hose to a faucet on the discharge side of the pressure tank and insert it into the well casing top. Start the pump. Spray the water back into the well and wash the sides of the casing for at least 15 minutes. Open every faucet in the system and let the water run until the smell of chlorine can be detected. Close all the faucets and seal the top of the well. Let the chlorinated water stand in the system several hours, preferably overnight. After letting the water stand, turn on the pump and open all faucets. Let the water run until all odor of chlorine disappears. Be sure to adjust the flow of water from faucets of fixtures that discharge into septic tank systems to a low flow to avoid overloading the drain field. After 5 days of normal usage, test water for coliform.
Firearms best suited for survival after a disaster:
SAVAGE MODEL 24F COMBO RIFLE/SHOTGUN
Caliber 20 GA, chambered for 3" shells. 22 L.R., .22 Hor., .223 Rem, 17HMR Overall Length 40.5" Barrel Length 24" Weight 8 lbs. Stock Black synthetic with positive checkering. Sights Adjustable notched rear sight/bead front/B-Square™ mount included. Rifling Rate of Twist 22 L.R. (1 in 14") 22 Hor. (1 in 14") 223 Rem. (1 in 14") 17HMR (1 in 9") Features Over/under rifle shotgun combination, top break action, ambidextrious opening lever, two-position cross-bolt safety, scope mount, and swivel studs. 20 GA modified choke tube.
SPRINGFIELD ARMORY M1A BUSH RIFLE
The Springfield Bush Rifle can get into tight places where a full-size rifle would be awkward. The perfect ranch rifle for a pickup or tractor. The Bush Rifle may be small in stature, but it is full-size performance. Specifications AA9104 Mossy Oak Stock/ Carbon Barrel Caliber: .308 Win. Barrel: 18", 1:11 RH six-groove barrel Size Weight: 8 3/4 pounds, 40 1/2" long Mechanism: Rotating bolt, gas operated, air cooled, semi-automatic magazine fed rifle Sights Front: Military square post Rear: Military aperture with MOA click adjustments for both windage and elevation, 22 3/4" sight radius Capacity: 5 round magazine Trigger Pull: 5 to 6 lbs., two stage
HENRY U.S. SURVIVAL RIFLE
Henry Repeating Arms has tooled up to manufacture a new and improved version of the famous U.S. Air Force AR-7, now known as the Henry U.S. Survival rifle. This compact and lightweight sportsman’s rifle is ideal for all outdoorsmen, including campers, backpackers, hunters, fishermen, boat owners and target shooters. And it can still serve its original purpose as a survival rifle for pilots. The Henry U.S. Survival rifle is ultra-lightweight, weighing in at a scant 2.5 pounds. The unique design allows the rifle to break down easily into three pieces in seconds. This enables the barrel, action and two 8-round magazines to fit comfortably into the tough ABS synthetic waterproof stock. No tools are needed to assemble or disassemble. Once disassembled and stowed, it is only an incredible 16 inches long. Carry it in your backpack with room to spare. To assemble, simply attach the receiver to the stock, insert the barrel, screw on the barrel nut and you’re ready to fire. In seconds, you’ll have the security of a semi-automatic rifle without the bulk and weight of a full size firearm. The Henry U.S. Survival rifle features a steel barrel that is covered in a tough ABS plastic and then coated in Teflon. This unique barrel design allows the gun to balance properly and remain lightweight, yet withstand tens of thousands of rounds. The entire receiver is also coated in Teflon, making the Henry U.S. Survival rifle the most weather-resistant of any AR -7 ever made. As an added feature, the receiver rib is now grooved for easy installation of a scope. The rifle is capable of feeding both standard and high velocity .22 Long Rifle ammunition. Available in black, silver or camouflage finishes.
Specifications: Models: H002S - Silver H002B - Black H002C - Camo Action Type: Semi-automatic Caliber: .22 LR Capacity: 8 rounds Length: 35" overall, 16 1/2" stowed Weight: 2.5 lbs. Stock: ABS Plastic Sights: Adjustable rear Blade front Finish: Teflon coated receiver and coated steel barrel
SPRINGFIELD ARMORY M6 SCOUT RIFLE, PARKERIZED
Versatility is the Key The Springfield M6 Scout covers a variety of needs in both normal and emergency situations. Improved and updated from the original U.S. Air Force M6 Survival Rifle, the Springfield M6 Scout is a tough, reliable, survival rifle you can depend on. Specifications Caliber .22LR/410 GA Barrel 18 1/4", 1:15 RH Rifle Barrel: Six-groove barrel Shotgun Barrel: Full choke, smooth bore, 3" chamber Sight Radius: 16 1/8" Size: 36 ozs. 32" long Also available in .22 Hornet/410 GA
MOSSBERG & SONS INC Model 500 Persuader Pump Action Shotgun
High security is fine; high maintenance isn't. Enter the Mossberg 500 Persuader shotguns -- the pump action shotguns you can count on for your security needs. Introduced in 1961, the Model 500 pump action utilizes an aluminum alloy receiver. The gun has a number of desirable features, including a barrel that is fully interchangeable, an easily manipulated top of receiver mounted safety, an anti jam elevator, dual extractors, and twin action bars for smooth and reliable operation. SPECIFICATIONS: Mfg Item Num: 50521 Category: FIREARMS - SHOTGUNS Action :Pump Gauge :12 GA Barrel Length :18 parkerized Capacity :(5 + 1 2 3/4) (4 + 1 3) Chamber :3 Length :39 1/2 Weight :6 3/4 Lbs Drop :1 1/2 @ Comb & 2 1/8 @ Heel Stock :Black Synthetic Finish :parkerized
Specifications: Ruger NRA Mini-14® Rifles are rugged centerfire autoloading rifles that provide reliable performance with the following features: ** For every NRA Mini-14 sold, Ruger will make a donation to the NRA Institute for Legislative Action to support their efforts in protecting American citizen's Second Amendment rights. ** Chambered in the popular and proven .223 Rem. cartridge and shipped with two 20-Round magazines. (Note: 20-round magazines are not available in all states and locales; 5-round magazines are available where required to meet state and local regulations limiting magazine capacity.) ** Black Hogue® OverMolded™ stock with NRA gold-tone medallion in grip cap. ** Special serial number sequence (NRA8XXXXX). ** Rugged adjustable "Ghost Ring" aperture rear sight. ** Rugged protected blade front sight. ** Improved receiver with rounded contours. ** Simple, rugged Garand-style breechbolt locking system, with a fixed-piston gas system and self-cleaning, moving gas cylinder. ** Integral sling swivels.
Specifications: Ruger 10/22® rimfire autoloading rifles provide reliable performance with the following key features: ** America's favorite .22 rifle. ** High-speed, pivoted hammer for short lock time. ** Proven performance in a wide range of styles for every rimfire application. ** Barrel that is locked into the receiver by a unique two-screw V-block system. ** Unique, removable rotary magazine that offers superior reliability, no exposed magazine to dent and no uncomfortable protrusions at the rifle's balance point. ** .22 Magnum model only (10/22 RBM) incorporates a rugged steel receiver with integral scope mounts and free Ruger medium height scope rings. ** The .22 Magnum model holds nine rounds and features an 18 1/2" barrel. ** Compact model features a shorter 16 1/8" barrel, short 12 3/4" length-of-full, high-visibility fiber optic front and rear sights, and correctly proportioned tapered forends with no barrel bands.
SMITH AND WESSON MODEL 686 REVOLVER
Specifications Caliber: .357 Magnum®/.38 S&W Special +P Capacity: 6 Rounds Barrel Length: 6" Front Sight: Red Ramp Rear Sight: Adjustable White Outline Firing System: N/A Grip: Hogue Rubber Trigger: .312" Smooth Target Hammer: .375" Target External Safety: N/A Frame: Medium Finish: Satin Stainless Overall length: 11-15/16" Material: Stainless Steel Weight Empty: 44 ounces Also available in 2 1/2" and 4" barrel m odels, and in a 7-round 5" barrelled model with Ahrens Wood Cocobolo grips.
KIMBER CUSTOM II
The Custom II is the cornerstone of the Kimber line of pistols. It features a match grade barrel machined from solid steel forgirngs for accurary and long life. An enlarged firing pin safety stop locks the extractor in position for absolute reliability. Its slightly extended slide release button assures speedy operation. Beveled magazine wells allow for quick magazine loading. And a polished breech face provides flawless feeding and extraction. Available in .45 ACP. Optional accessories for the Custom II are night sights or walnut grips
SMITH & WESSON MODEL 629 .44 MAGNUM
Specifications Caliber: .44 Magnum®/.44 S&W Special Capacity: 6 Rounds Barrel Length: 4" Front Sight: Red Ramp Rear Sight: Adjustable White Outline Firing System: N/A Grip: Hogue Rubber Trigger: .400" Smooth Target Hammer: .500" Target External Safety: N/A Frame: Large Finish: Satin Stainless Overall length: 9-5/8" Material: Stainless Steel Weight Empty: 41.5 ounces Also available in a 6" barrel version.
Dying Calibers in Post-survival times
17 HRM 22 Short 22 Hornet 218 Bee 220 Swift 222 Remington 22–20 22–250 25–06 243 25 Auto 250 Savage 260 270 280
Replace them if you want to survive in post-Disaster times:
.30 Carbine 30–40 30–30 300 Savage 300 WinMag 303 338 32–20 35 Remington 375 Magnum 357 Sig 38 Super
400 Corbon 41 Magnum 44 Special 416 44–40 45–70 45 Long Colt 458 Winchester 454 Casull 460 480 50 AE
6 mm 6.5 mm 7 mm–08 7 mm 7.62x39 8 mm 10 mm
410 Gauge 28 Gauge 20 Gauge 16 Gauge 10 Gauge