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guardian weekend 01.09.


Happiness is...
a new Ottolenghi cookbook. Exclusive extracts

Fat, unfit, felons... The real US army Mr EL James Life in the shadow of Fifty Shades Marina OLoughlin Meet our new restaurant critic


Contents 01.09.12


Unt for service? Gone are the days of the all-American army hero, says Matt Kennard. These days, the US military is more like a sanctuary for racists, gang members and the chronically unt Life in my wifes shadow Theyve still got their tatty old kitchen. So how has life changed for the husband of EL James? If I didnt use unusual ingredients, people wouldnt read me How Yotam Ottolenghi built a restaurant empire and became a global publishing phenomenon. Plus exclusive recipes from his new cookbook, Jerusalem


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64 42

5 Tim Dowling No place like home 8 Your view Have your say 10 Big picture Reactions, by Angelo Merendino 13 Lucy Mangan Why we all need a lion in our lives 14 Q&A Tom Jones, singing legend 16 Experience I dug up 10m of iron age coins

42 Fashion Why things are looking up for actor Ruth Wilson 46 All ages Blue note 48 Wish list What we like this week 49 Jess Cartner-Morley The skinny trouser is dead. Long live the wideleg. Plus Get the look, the Measure 55 Beauty Sali Hughess unsung heroes. Plus What I see in the mirror: Pauline Black

59 Restaurants Our new critic, Marina OLoughlin, kicks o with a visit to Londons latest dining hotspot, Brasserie Zdel


61 This column will change your life Has Pelmanisms time come again, asks Oliver Burkeman. Plus What Im really thinking: the woman priest 63 Blind date Does cupid strike?

66 Gardens Great Dixters head gardener shares his secrets of guaranteeing late-summer colour 69 Alys Fowler All hail the quince, the fruit that gets on with things without you. Plus Ask Alys 71 Lets move to Cirencester, Gloucestershire its jolly nice, you know. Plus Snooping around

41 Weekender Jane McMillan, fashion designer, 47


57 Dan Lepard Baking with sherry: sherry raisin bread and sherry fruit bread pudding

72 On the road The Sat Mii is a bit like a blast from the past, says Sam Wollaston. But in a good way 73 Puzzles Crossword, quiz, Scrabble 74 Your pictures This week: fade
The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 3

64 Homes The best new names from the 2012 London design festival



Our house has suffered a cardiac event and needs an

Tim Dowling
t is sometimes said that a dying patient will cling to life while family members are present, only slipping away when everybody nally leaves the room. I have this, but with my house. All year long, the house shudders along in some kind of perpetual end stage, invariably choosing the two weeks were on holiday to give up the ghost. This is when bits of it fall o, spring leaks or grind to a halt. Upon our return, it is not always immediately apparent which vital organ has packed up. It all looks OK, I say, examining the ceiling for telltale stains. Electricitys on, my wife says. Water comes out of the taps. Good, I say. Im having a bath. The bath water is cold. I check to see if the boiler is o, but its raging away. But there is a familiar whining sound emerging from the system. The central heating is broken, I tell my wife. How can it be? she says. No one has touched it. This happened once before, many years ago. A bit of scale has broken o inside the pipes and travelled down to the pump, where its become lodged in the impeller. I dont understand. Think of it this way: our house has suered a major cardiac event, and needs an expensive operation. I cant remember the name of the plumber who replaced our plumber, she says. The pump problem is deemed non-urgent, because my wife is leaving again almost immediately, to take the younger two to visit friends over the bank holiday weekend. I am to join them later, as soon I have completed a weeks work and enjoyed a series of freezing showers. I arrive on Thursday night. The following morning, our host oers me a coee. Sorry about the cup, he says. I had to run the dishwasher again. The youngest emerges from a bedroom. Dad, he says. Will you play tennis with me? Yes, I say, just as soon as Ive... My phone dings in my pocket. Its a text from the oldest one, who is at a festival. It says: how do u put the tent up?? This presents a puzzle. I packed him o with our bad tent, because I didnt trust him with our good tent, but I last erected the bad tent in 2007. I ring him. Peg out the oor, I say, then ring me back. By the time he rings, I am on the tennis court.

expensive op

OK, I say. There are, as I recall, two metal spacers that go on top of the poles between the inner tent and the ysheet. Nope, he says. There isnt anything like that in any of the... oh wait. Found them. When I return from tennis, our host oers me a beer, apologising for the glass, which is fogged and slightly greasy to the touch. I open their dishwasher and peer in. A familiar sight greets me. Youre problem is simple, I say. Small bits of food have clogged the jets of both spray arms, resulting in incomplete rinsing. Pine nuts or puy lentils are usually to blame. It is a middle-class curse. An hour later we are holding sparkling wine glasses to the light. Youve changed our lives, our host says. Hes good at that sort of thing, my wife says with a stress on the that. Two days later, Im back at home, staring at the central heating pump, having just accidentally stepped into another ice-cold bath. I try to recall the replacement plumbers name, thinking back to his last visit. Then I think: power o; drain down system; remove pump cover; extract impediment; close pump; rell system; power on. What could possibly go wrong?

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 5



Your view Letters, emails, comments

Most people would receive mixed reviews from those who know them, so the feedback on Julian Assange was not too bad (25 August). It was also a welcome corrective to the ludicrous sanctifying of him that we have heard from those whose only interest is putting one over on Uncle Sam. That said, given the serious charges against him, it was perhaps unfortunate that the great majority of your correspondents were men. John Webster London NW6 In all the descriptions of Julian Assange, not one referred to the charges made against him in Sweden. Extradition treaty or not, Assange is a coward for not facing up to this, and is denying the women involved the right to have their case heard. Printing page after page of comments about what a brilliant, unusual man he is serves only to inate his ego. Assange needs to face up to reality and stop hiding behind other people. Veronica Dunne Lancaster Love him or loathe him, it takes balls to take on the US establishment, and for that alone Assange has my respect. Name withheld London SW7 Shirley MacLaine made Emma Brockes peanut butter crackers (Move Over, Maggie, 25 August)! I would die a happy woman after this. Mireia Mangual Sutton Coldeld, West Midlands A symptom of how far marketisation has taken over society is that people regard it as a sign of freedom to leave home, take on debt, pay others to look after their kids and for their parents to pay for their own care (Generation Boomerang, 25 August). want me to as well. Judging by the rest of the article, Id be extremely surprised if they didnt. Curtis J Reubens Harrow, Middlesex At last, Guardian Weekend is answering the questions that keep us awake night after night, unable to nd a resolution: just how does one downsize from a French chteau to a London terrace (Homes, 25 August)? Anna Adderley Liverpool

Small ask
Sir Patrick Moore replies No one does. People who study the things you can see in the sky are called astronomers. Look up when the sky is dark and clear, and you will see the stars. They look like small, twinkling points of light, but really they are suns. And our sun, which seems so brilliant during the daytime, is also a star, but is much closer than the stars we see at night. Never look straight at the sun or you will hurt your eyes. The stars form groups called constellations. These were named by astronomers more than 1,000 years ago and look the same now as they did then. The planets are dierent from stars, but astronomers gave them names, which we still use. The moon shines by reected sunlight and moves round the Earth. We can also see what look like moving stars, but these are satellites (spaceships that we have launched into space). It is nobodys responsibility to clear away old satellites. Some keep on going round the Earth for many years; others fall back into our atmosphere and become so hot by friction that they may burn away. Some are so huge, they do not burn away, and there is always a chance that falling satellites, or pieces of satellites, will hit the ground, although there have never been any reports of people hurt or killed. There is always something new to see. If you decide to make a hobby of astronomy, you will always nd something to interest you. If youre 10 or under, and have a question that needs answering, email

Love him or loathe him, it takes balls to take on the US establishment, and for that alone Assange has my respect.
All these transactions could take place within the family on the basis of love and not money. Sure, therell be dysfunctionality and tension, but it is reversion to the norm and not really something that new. Haider Ali London N3 The guy who is 38, never really left home and says he cant get his dream job, needs to open his eyes. There are many others out there who cant get jobs in their desired elds or are having to save for deposits while renting. They dont all go back and live with their parents. Marc Denholm Edinburgh Id prefer to get a job and my own place, and Im sure Mum and Dad

What a relief to see myself in print (What Im Really Thinking, 25 August) another non-drinker out and proud, when most of the time, on meeting each other, were restricted to surreptitious confessional conversations, such is the strength of societys alcohol-centred orthodoxy. Karen Lane Ilford, Essex Your article on ice-cream vans says that all six are Transits (Big Picture, 25 August), but one is a Mercedes 208D-based conversion. Ill have a ake with that, please. Chris Peters Liverpool What a moving coincidence it was that on the day one of the greatest men of all time died, Moonlight should be the theme for readers photographs (25 August). Martyn Smith Croydon Write to Guardian Weekend, Kings Place, 90 York Way, London N1 9GU (, or comment at A full name and postal address (not for publication) must be supplied. For inclusion on Saturday, letters should reach us by noon on Tuesday, and may be edited.

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Big picture Reactions, by Angelo Merendino

In April 2011, Angelo Merendinos wife Jennifer was taken to hospital. She had been diagnosed with breast cancer in 2008, just ve months after she and Angelo were married, and her condition had worsened. When she was discharged two weeks later, doctors advised her to take a walk every day, so she wasnt stuck in the couples Manhattan apartment. With no hair from chemotherapy, and a walking frame, Jennifer was not what you would expect from a 39-yearold woman, Angelo says. We couldnt cross the street without people staring. Struck by peoples reactions some shocked or pitying, others curious he started to photograph these passersby when he and Jennifer were on their daily strolls. He shot at hip height so people would react to her, not his camera. We werent mad that people were staring. We just wanted to show this was what life was like for her. Angelo had already been documenting Jennifers battle with cancer, keen to show the daily reality of pills, injections, doctors appointments and paperwork, as well as the fear, sadness and frustration. He had no intention of making the photographs public, beyond friends and family, until he entered a few in a competition. It was then that the emails started coming in condolences, thanks for what he was doing and experiences shared, all from strangers. From then on, we felt we had an opportunity to help other suerers, and to give people who had no experience of cancer a deeper understanding of what it involves. Jennifer died on 22 December 2011. Life is quite strange these days, Angelo says. I am taking things a step at a time. But he hopes that his photographs will encourage people to look at cancer patients from a new perspective. Hannah Booth See more of Angelo Merendinos images at
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The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 11


Lucy Mangan Oh, the thrill of a big beastie story

s I write, there is a lion on the loose! In Essex! People have heard roarings louder that those heard in even the most zealous of local waxing salons and some have reported sightings in the elds and woods of St Osyth near Clacton-onSea including a man who assured his family and, later, the papers, that, It was a f***ing lion! Honestly, what more proof do you need? Dozens of police and several helicopters are out searching. Local zoos and a circus that recently came to town say they are missing no animals. But as someone wisely pointed out on Twitter, you dont need a licence to keep a lion as a pet in England, so who knows how many are actually here and one cheap padlock away from freedom? If its a lioness, I would suggest she has been deliberately released to give our leading vajazzlers grown complacent after years of decorating vajajays owned by relatively peaceable sorts a revivifying

challenge, but of course, as we f have heard, it is a f***ing lion. Two possibilities therefore ies remain. One, its a PR stunt by the Archbishop of op Canterbury, Rowan wan Williams, to publicise his licise book A Lions World: orld: A Journey Into The Heart he Of Narnia, and the police he will soon pounce on two curates in I was going s to say a motheaten en animal suit, but do you know what? I do not believe (and, yes, I have given this some thought) hought) that the archbish would send them forth in n anything but top-quality quality plushwork. So, the he police will pounce on e the pair in a relatively vely convincing leonine ne costume, probably y arguing about whose ose turn it is to go at the he front. It should be me all the

time, Julian! Who here spent four y years at divinity-andpantomimicry school? I did! pantom Dont Do wreck this for me! Or or its a real lion, brought in by the Gidiot b after the failure of Plan A (encourage economic growth by discouraging everything that pertains to economic growth) and Plan B (More of Plan A, I think!) to exercise a third option: e reduce the Exchequers r burden by terrorising all b the th pensioner-heavy towns so that those to money-suckers drop m dead de of fright. Its Plan C for fo crafty! (He can spell, see. you see He just cant add up.) Even if the lion turns out not real, to be re it wont matter. We big thrill to b beastie stories regardless. regardless The mere possibility that any wild thing has found its wi the way into th long-tamed landscape British of the Britis Isles is enough. Its

as if the mask of modernity has suddenly slipped to reveal the ancient, gnarled and leery face beneath. If a lion can just suddenly... suddenly just, just... be in Essex, says some tiny, primitive part of our minds, how thin, how porous must the line actually be between civilisation and the wildly seething truth beyond? Every sighting of Nessie breaking the surface, every report of panthery prints in moorland mud, moves us an inch closer to a fabulous, fabled world in which anything is possible. Nessie lives in a loch awash with human hopes and dreams and fears. The four-legged beasts stalk our collective imagination. Of course, if the lions real, it might get as far as Westminster and make an amuse-bouche out of Osborne. Ah, the most fabulous dream of all. A collection of Lucy Mangans columns, My Family And Other Disasters, is published as an ebook by the Guardian, available from at 4.99.

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Tom Jones My fancy dress costume of choice? Dick Turpin

Tom Jones was born Thomas Jones Woodward in south Wales in 1940. He left school at 16 and married his wife Linda a year later, just before the birth of their son Mark. In 1963, he joined his rst band and two years later his career took o with Its Not Unusual, his rst hit in the UK and US. He went on to have success with the classics Green, Green Grass Of Home and Delilah. He has sold more than 100m records. He was one of the coaches on the TV talent show The Voice. His latest album is Spirit In The Room and next week he releases the single (I Want To) Come Home. Tomorrow he performs at Radio 2 Live In Hyde Park. When were you happiest? When I was able nally to get out of bed when I had TB after two years. What is your greatest fear? Being locked up in jail. What is your earliest memory? I can see the kitchen in the house where I was born so think I was in a high-chair having some nosh. Which living person do you most admire, and why? The Queen, for her loyalty and determination. What is the trait you most deplore in yourself? Bad sense of time on the clock, not in music! What is the trait you most deplore in others? Bullying. What has been your most embarrassing moment? I was in the toilet somewhere on the M1, sitting with my trousers down, and some girls jumped over the door. What is your most treasured possession? My voice. What would your super power be? Immortality. What makes you unhappy? Not being able to sing.
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What is your favourite smell? The scent of a woman. What is your favourite book? The Rise And Fall Of The British Empire, by Lawrence James. What would be your fancy dress costume of choice? Dick Turpin. What is the worst thing anyones said to you? I heard you were paid o. Early in my career there was a rumour that I was paid not to play at some club which was not true. It still rankles. Cat or dog? Dog. Is it better to give or to receive? By giving you receive its a good deal. Who would you invite to your dream dinner party? Winston Churchill, both of my grandfathers whom Ive never met John Wayne and Boudicca. Which words or phrases do you most overuse? Any and many swearwords. What is the worst job youve done? Twelve-hour shifts in a paper mill. When did you last cry, and why? When I listened to one of my [The Voice] team members sing. What do you consider your greatest achievement? Being knighted by Her Majesty. What keeps you awake at night? Knowing I have to get up early. What song would you like played at your funeral? I havent given it any thought. How would you like to be remembered? As a helluva singer. What is the most important lesson life has taught you? Dont make decisions when youve had too much to drink. Where would you most like to be right now? Wherever I am, breathing and well. Rosanna Greenstreet



Experience I dug up 10m of iron age coins

must have been about 14 when Reg Mead told me the legend of the lost iron age coins. Id just joined the Jersey Metal Detectorists Society to nd out how to master the machine Id been given for my birthday. Reg was the president, and his story really red my young imagination. He told me the daughter of a local farmer had once said her father had disturbed an earthenware pot while removing a hedge, scattering old coins across his eld. She recalled stumbling upon these funny little buttons, which shed take into school and swap for magazines. As soon as Reg heard her description a Red Indian head on one side, a horse on the other he was almost certain the coins were of Celtic origin. Reg didnt know exactly where to look, but he knew the general area. Over the years, we got permission to take our detectors into various elds and narrowed down the search. Though Reg was more than 20 years my senior, we became very good friends, spending hours in our free time sweeping the land. Over the next three decades, the legend of the lost hoard drew us together. There was only a narrow window between harvests during which we could search perhaps 15 hours annually but we never missed it. At the start of this year, we got permission to search a eld wed never tried before. We found nothing on the rst day, but on the second my detector made a sound that was to become very familiar. I only had to dig down about three inches, and as my ngers closed around that rst coin, I recognised its size and shape immediately Id seen others on display in Jersey museums. Finding one here gave me an electric charge of excitement. Breathless, I brushed away soil to

reveal the familiar head with its distinctive curls, turned over the coin to reveal the horse on the other side. Reg, I shouted, you might want to come and take a look at this! He came bounding up from the bottom of the eld. I opened my hand. This might be of interest to you? His face just lit up. So the story was true, he said, beaming. In all, we uncovered 61 coins over two days, all made of a copper and silver alloy. Thats when we contacted the curator of archaeology

at Jersey Heritage. An excruciating three months followed the farmer who used the eld was just about to plant a crop of Jersey Royals and we couldnt proceed until theyd been harvested. But in May, Reg and I returned to the eld with his Deepseeker, a detector designed to locate objects at greater depths. Sweeping the area where wed found the greatest concentration of coins, he hit the target almost straight away. Three feet down, Regs spade struck something solid. He gently

removed some of the loose soil and, when I sifted through it, ve corroded copper discs spilled out. Yet we still werent sure. Spurred by the legend, had we allowed our imaginations to run riot? When we returned with a team of professionals, we apologised in advance in case we were wasting their time. But the excavation soon revealed a great mass of coins, all stuck together. As the pit grew deeper, the estimate went from hundreds to tens of thousands. Were going to need a bigger hole, someone said. It seemed a trench had been dug by a Celtic tribe eeing northern France in the rst century BC, as Julius Caesars legions advanced across Europe. The coins had simply been ung in and buried. It was ve days before the hoard was hoisted from the clay it had occupied for more than 2000 years. It emerged like a huge teardrop, three feet across and ve feet long, and was driven to the Jersey Archive for further study. The conservator called later to say hed found a silver brooch among the coins and two neck torcs, possibly made of gold. Who knows what else might be hidden within? So far, its the biggest hoard ever discovered on Jersey, and possibly the largest found anywhere. Some reports say it may be worth 10m. I dont know if Reg and I will ever see any of that the law for nders in Jersey has yet to be fully established. But I always promised my wife Id locate real treasure one day, and my sons are fascinated by the nds. A reward would be a bonus, but simply adding something to the archaeology and history of Jersey would be enough thats all Reg and I ever really wanted to do. Richard Miles Do you have an experience to share? Email


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My journey into the dark underworld of the US military begins on a rainy Tuesday morning in March 2008, with a visit to Tampa, Florida. I am here to meet Forrest Fogarty, an American patriot who served in the US army for two years in Iraq. Fogarty is also a white supremacist of the serious Hitler-worshipping type. We meet in his favourite hangout, the Winghouse Bar & Grill. In our brief phone call, Id asked how I would recognise him. Just look for the skinhead with the tattoos, he said. And sure enough, sitting straight to my right as I walk in is a youngish-looking man, plastered in tattoos, with cropped hair and bulging biceps. Youre British, right, he says, as we order. I remember seeing black guys with British accents in Iraq, shit was so crazy. Fogarty tells me he was bullied at his LA high school by Mexican and African-American children, and was just 14 when he decided he wanted to be a Nazi. He has no qualms about aunting his prejudice. When black people come into the bar, he emits a hiss of disapproval. I just dont want to be around them, he tells me. I dont want to look at them, I dont want them near me. As a young man, Fogarty was obsessed with Ian Stuart Donaldson, the legendary singer in the British band Skrewdriver, who is heroworshipped in the neo-Nazi music scene. At 16, he had an image from one of Skrewdrivers album covers a Viking carrying an axe, an icon among white nationalists tattooed on his left forearm. Soon after, he had a Celtic cross, an Irish symbol appropriated by neo-Nazis, emblazoned on his stomach. A few years later, he started his own band, Attack, now one of the biggest Nazi bands in the US. But it was never his day job. I was a landscaper when I left school, he says. I kind of fell into it. I didnt give a shit what I was doing, I was just drinking and ghting. For the next eight years he drifted through jobs in construction and landscaping, and began hanging out with the National Alliance, at the time one of the biggest neo-Nazi organisations in the US. He soon became a member. He had always seen himself as a ghter and warrior, so he resolved to do what two generations of Fogartys had done before him: join the military.

Fogarty was not the rst extremist to enter the armed forces. The neo-Nazi movement has had a long and tense relationship with the US military. Since its inception, the leaders of the white supremacist movement have encouraged their members to enlist. They see it as a way for their followers to receive combat and weapons training, courtesy of the US government, and then to bring what they learn home to undertake a domestic race war. Not all far-right groups subscribe to this vision some, such as the Ku Klux Klan, claim to prefer a democratic approach but a large portion see themselves as insurrectionary forces. To that end, professional training in warfare is a must. The US military has long been aware of these groups attempts at inltration, but it wasnt until 1996 that supremacist and neo-Nazi groups were specically banned from the military, after the murder in 1995 of two African-Americans by a neoNazi paratrooper stationed at Fort Bragg, North Carolina. Fogarty was recruited the year after. He knew that the tattoo he had riding up his forearm could be a problem when it came to enlistment. In a neo-Nazi underworld obsessed with secrecy, racist tattoos remain one of the clearest indicators of extremism for a recruiter, and in an eort to police the matter, the US military requires recruits to explain any tattoos. They just told me to write an explanation of each tattoo and I made up some stu and that was that, he says. Soon after Fogarty was approved, his ex-girlfriend and mother of his eldest child contacted the military. According to Fogarty, she sent a dossier of pictures to his military command that showed him at white supremacist and neo-Nazi rallies, as well as performing his racist rock with Attack. They hauled me before some sort of committee, and showed me the pictures. I just denied it. The committee, he says, knew what I was about, but they let it go because Im a great soldier. Fogarty remained in the reserves, until nally, in 2004, he was sent where he had always wanted to go: Iraq. Before he left for the Middle East, he joined the Hammerskin Nation described by the Anti-Defamation League as the the most violent and best-organised neo-Nazi skinhead group in the United States.


Fogarty maintains that a good portion of those around him were aware of his neo-Nazism. They all knew in my unit, he says. They would always kid around and say, Hey, youre that skinhead! He was condent enough of his carte blanche from the military that during his break from service in 2004, he ew not to see his family in the US but to Dresden, Germany, to give a concert to 2,500 skinheads, on the armys budget. When he was at Camp Victory in Baghdad, Fogarty even says a sergeant came up to him and said, Youre one of those racist motherfuckers, arent you? I ask how the sergeant knew about his racism. The tattoo, I suppose. I cant hide everything people knew, even the chain of command. Another white supremacist soldier, James Douglas Ross, a military intelligence ocer stationed at Fort Bragg, was given a bad conduct discharge from the army when he was caught trying to mail a submachine gun from Iraq to his fathers home in Spokane, Washington. Military police found a cache of white supremacist paraphernalia and several weapons hidden behind ceiling tiles in Rosss military quarters. After his discharge, a Spokane County deputy sheri saw Ross passing out iers for the neoNazi National Alliance. And in early 2012, a photo emerged of a 10-strong US marine scout sniper unit posing for a photo with a Nazi SS bolts ag in Sangin, Afghanistan. According to the military, the symbolism was unknown to the soldiers. Certainly, the use of the SS runes is not acceptable and scout snipers have been addressed concerning this issue, marine corps

spokesman Captain Gregory Wolf said. The magnitude of the problem within the military is hard to quantify. The military does not track extremists as a discrete category, coupling them with gang members, and those in the neoNazi movement claim dierent numbers. The National Socialist Movement claimed 190 of its members are inside. White Revolution claimed 12. In white supremacist incidents from 2001 to 2008, the FBI identied 203 veterans. Because the FBI focused only on reported cases, its numbers dont include the many extremist soldiers who have managed to stay o the radar. But its report does pinpoint why the white supremacist movements seek to recruit veterans they may exploit their accesses to restricted areas and intelligence or
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apply specialised training in weapons, tactics, and organisational skills to benet the extremist movement. The report found that two army privates in the 82nd Airborne Division at Fort Bragg had attempted in 2007 to sell stolen property from the military including ballistic vests, a combat helmet, and pain medications such as morphine to an undercover FBI agent they believed was involved with the white supremacist movement (they were convicted and sentenced to six years in prison). It also found multiple examples of white supremacist recruitment among active military personnel, including a period in 2003 when six active-duty soldiers at Fort Riley were found to be members of the neoNazi group Aryan Nations, working to recruit their army colleagues and even serving as the Aryan Nations point of contact for the State of Kansas. The degree of impunity encountered by Fogarty and countless other extremists has caused tensions within the military. The blind eye turned by the recruiters angered many investigators whose integrity was being compromised. Hunter Glass was a paratrooper in the 1980s and became a gang cop in 1999 in Fairville, North Carolina, next to Fort Bragg. In the 1990s, the military was hard on them, they could pick and choose, he recalls. The change came after 9/11. The key rule nowadays is ignore it until it becomes a problem, Glass tells me. We need manpower. So as long as the man isnt acting out, lets blow it o. He recounts one episode in early 2005 when he was requested by military police investigators at Fort Bragg to interview a soldier with blatant skinhead insignia SS lightning bolts and hammers. Glass worked with the bases military police investigators, who led a report. They recommended that he be kicked out, he recalls, but the commanding ofcers didnt do anything. He says there was an open culture of impunity. Were seeing guys with tattoos all the time ... As far as hunting them down, I dont see it. Im seeing the opposite, where if a white supremacist has committed a crime, the military stance will be, He didnt commit a race-related crime. By 2005, the US had 150,000 troops deployed in Iraq and 19,500 in Afghanistan. But the military wasnt prepared in any way for this kind of extended deployment and just two years into the war in Iraq, people were talking openly about the fact that it had reached breaking point. The slim forces needed fattening up and what followed constituted a complete re-evaluation of who was qualied to serve a full-works facelift of the service unheard of in modern American history. In the relatively halcyon days of the

rst Gulf war in 1990, the US military blocked the enlistment of felons. It spurned men and women with low IQs or those without a high school diploma. It would either block the enlistment of or kick out neo-Nazis and gang members. It would treat or discharge alcoholics, drug abusers and the mentally ill. No more. While the Bush administration adopted conservative policies pretty much universally, it saved its ration of liberalism for the US military, where it scrapped many of the regulations governing recruitment. Many of the wars worst atrocities are linked directly to the loosening of enlistment regulations on criminals, racist extremists, and gang members, among others. Then there are the eects on the troops themselves. Lowering standards on intelligence and body weight, for example, compromised the militarys operational readiness and undoubtedly endangered the lives of US and allied troops. Hundreds of soldiers may have paid with their lives for this folly. On 1 December 2007, Kevin Shields was murdered in Colorado Springs in an incident involving three of his fellow soldiers, Louis Bressler, Kenneth Eastridge and Bruce Bastien Jr, who all served in Iraq as part of the Second Brigade Combat Team, Second Infantry Division. Bressler and Bastien were each put away for 60 years for their part in the murder, alongside a litany of other crimes in Colorado Springs; Eastridge is serving a 10-year prison sentence for his part. In the aftermath of the arrests, pictures emerged of Eastridge proudly displaying his SS bolts tattoo. After his arrest, Bastien told investigators that he and Eastridge had randomly red at civilians in Iraq during patrols through the streets of Baghdad. In broad daylight, Bastien alleged, Eastridge would use a stolen AK-47 to re indiscriminately at Iraqi civilians. At least one was hit, he said. We were trigger happy, said another member of the platoon, Jos Barco, who is serving 52 years in jail for shooting and injuring a pregnant woman in Colorado Springs. Wed open up on anything. They even didnt have to be armed. We were keeping scores. So far, no one has been charged with shooting civilians in Iraq. The military not only ignored Eastridges extremism, but on his return from combat awarded him a Purple Heart and Army Achievement medals. Eastridges lawyer, Sheilagh McAteer, becomes palpably angry when I speak to her. She claimed that the military were now knowingly sending mentally unstable young men to Afghanistan and Iraq. The military is to some extent desperate to get people to go to ght soldiers who are not t, mentally and physically sick, but they continue to send them, she told me.



Having a tattoo was the least of his concerns. In March 2012, a US soldier, on his fourth deployment in a decade, walked out of his base and went on a shooting spree in southern Afghanistan, murdering more than a dozen Afghan civilians, including nine children. Then news came that US army sta sergeant Robert Bales, the 38-yearold suspect, was from Joint Base Lewis-McCord, in Washington state, which just four months earlier had convicted a member of an Afghanistan kill team of murder via a military jury. PTSD [post-traumatic stress disorder] was not a new phenomenon for the military, but sending soldiers still suering from severe mental health problems back to the frontline in such large numbers was. Im concerned that people who are symptomatic are being sent back, said Dr Arthur S Blank, Jr, a Yale-trained psychiatrist. That has not happened before in our country. The armys top mental health expert, Colonel Elspeth Ritchie, explicitly accepted that the reason so many mentally ill troops were being sent back was because of the demands on the military for more and more personnel. The challenge for us, he said, is that the army has a mission to ght. And, as you know, recruiting has been a challenge. And so we have to weigh the needs of the mission with the soldiers personal needs. Bradley Manning, the alleged US military source of the WikiLeaks data, is another example of the mental health of recruits being ignored. Manning was a mess of a child who should never have been put through a tour of duty in Iraq, said an ocer from the Fort Leonard Wood military base in Missouri, where Manning trained in 2007. Chase Madar, the author of a recent book on Manning, told me, He would never have been kept in the army if not for record low recruitment levels in 2007 when he enlisted. The only reason Manning made it on to active duty in Iraq, after repeated warnings about his tness at all three of his stateside deployments, was the armys utter desperation for soldiers with IT and analytic skills during its historic low in recruitment. New recruits were physically, as well as mentally, unt. In 1993, around 23% of prospective recruits would have been overweight a pretty signicant tranche. By 2006, this had increased to just over 27%, or more than a quarter of potential recruits, due partly to the use of medical waivers to make exceptions for overweight recruits. The three most common barriers for potential recruits were failure to graduate high school, a criminal record and physical tness issues, including obesity. The criminal record had been dealt with by moral waivers and the obesity problem by medical waivers, but dropping the standards on

educational attainment would not be so easy without seriously aecting operational readiness. There was a way for non-graduates to get into the military, however: the general equivalency degree, or GED, which can aord recruits a waiver if they score well enough on the militarys entrance exam. The army accepts about 15% of recruits without a high school diploma if they have a GED. Alive to this loophole, the military instituted another program in 2008, the so-called GED Plus, to give more of Americas youth the requisite qualications they needed to go and ght. It opened its rst prep school for the purpose, targeted at tough, inner-city areas. In fact, during the war on terror, the resources poured into recruiting impressionable young people skyrocketed, with 1,000 new recruiters added in one year to bring high school kids round to the militarys way of thinking. The Junior Reserve Ofcer Training Corps expanded across the nation, and no child was free from their solicitations; even 11-yearolds were taking part in the programmes. One in 10 high school students in Chicago wore a military uniform to school and took classes on shooting guns from retired veterans. One of the main incentives oered was money a lot of money from the perspective of a 16-year-old. In 2005, the army moved to raise the average bonus given to recruits when they signed on the dotted line from $14,000 to $17,000, with the possibility of as much as $30,000 for hard-to-ll vacancies. Another of the militarys slogans was Join the Armed Forces, get a free education, an oer many of Americas poorest kids couldnt turn down. A report, Soldiers Of Misfortune, by the American Civil Liberties Union, found that the US government was actually in contravention of an international protocol prohibiting the recruitment of children into military service when they are under 18 years old. It also noted that the US military disproportionately targets poor and minority public school students, but its ndings were dutifully ignored. It took a report from the Palm Center at the University of California a group committed to discussion of homosexuals in the military to blow the lid on yet more gures the military was trying hard to cover up. In 2007, it published information obtained through the Freedom of Information Act that found the number of convicted criminals enlisting

in the US military had nearly doubled in two years, from 824 in 2004 to 1,605 in 2006. In that period, a total of 4,230 convicted felons were enlisted, including those guilty of rape and murder. On top of this, 43,977 soldiers signed up who had been found guilty of a serious misdemeanour, which includes assault. Another 58,561 had drug-related convictions, but all were handed a gun and sent o to the Middle East. The fact that the military has allowed more than 100,000 people with such troubled pasts to join its ranks over the past three years illustrates the problem were having meeting our military needs in this time of war, said Aaron Belkin, director of the Palm Center. One of the most horric of the reported

atrocities by the US military in Iraq, the murder of the al-Janabi family in Yusuyah, involved a convicted criminal, Steven D Green, whose enlistment required special dispensation because of his criminal record. But research has shown that these recruitment practices engender breakdown within the ranks as well. During the war on terror, one in three female soldiers reported being victims of some form of sexual assault while in service. In fact, US women service members are today more likely to be raped by a fellow soldier than to be killed by enemy re. No one knows how many Iraqi or Afghan women and girls have been subjected to similar atrocities, although cases such as the rapes and murders in Yusuyah suggest it was equally endemic, and went equally unpunished. In 2009, the military met its recruitment targets for the rst time since 2004 and once again pledged to lock out those with criminal records. Brigadier General Joseph Anderson, deputy commander of the US Army Recruiting Command, said that the adult major misconduct waiver, given for felony oences, was now closed and, additionally, those with a history of juvenile criminal activity would not be allowed to recruit without a high school diploma. It was an admission of guilt, but for many in Iraq and Afghanistan, it was too late Extracted from Irregular Army: How The War On Terror Brought Neo-Nazis, Gang Members And Criminals Into The US Military, by Matt Kennard, is published by Verso Books on 24 September at 14.99. To order a copy for 11.99, with free UK p&p go to or call 0330 333 6846.
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Meet Mr Fifty Shades

Do they have a dungeon? Or a Red Room of Pain? Naill Leonard, aka Mr EL James, on living with a publishing phenomenon
If on entering your local bookshop you can nd your way past the teetering stacks of EL James Fifty Shades trilogy, you might come across a slim new crime novel, Crusher. That ones mine. Perceptive reviewers have noted that the heros father, Maguire, is an embittered Irish hack consumed with envy of his peers. That must be you, they insist. What modern novelist doesnt envy EL James, the 40-something TV executive and mother of two who has outsold Dan Brown and Stieg Larsson, turbo-boosted the turnover of UK bookshops, and left men the world over begging for less sex and more sleep? But my book is a gritty urban murder mystery; Fifty Shades is an erotic romantic fantasy, and I couldnt have written it in a million years. Im the least romantic fecker that ever lived ask my wife Erika, aka EL James. Our rst Christmas together I bought her a tin opener, and my earliest experience of kinky sex was her trying to shove it up my arse. Both our books were born out of frustration. Ive been in the TV screenwriting business for 20-odd years, and Ive made a decent living at it, but I was getting tired of having my best ideas mangled, and spat out, by the process. Erika had been working in TV as a head of production, and she was great at her job, but never really happy. Then, late in 2008, she saw the rst Twilight
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movie, devoured all the books in one sitting, and suddenly knew what she really wanted to do write her own romantic ction. We went out and bought her a desk, she sat down and started typing, and produced two novels, working every spare minute she had. If she was happy, I was delighted I nally got to watch The Sopranos and The Wire back to back with no one moaning about the violence or the impenetrable slang. Erika discovered the forum and started submitting stories under the user name Snowqueens Icedragon. When she came up with the saga that was to become Fifty Shades Of Grey, she started to gather a fanatical following for her steamy sex scenes and clihanger endings. Shed write a new chapter every week or so, and I would proof-read it, checking her spelling, adding and subtracting commas, cutting back on those bloody ellipses and occasionally suggesting a tweak if I thought the meaning was unclear. Wed sworn wed never work together in TV as a producer she would have red me that day I was directing The Bill and ran over by 30 minutes but one evening a week wed sit down together at her laptop and go through her latest instalment, and somehow we managed that for 18 months without killing each other. We did fall out once; I stomped o without nishing the chapter, and

Portraits by Pal Hansen

If she was happy, I was delighted I finally got to watch The Sopranos and The Wire back to back
she published it anyway, and if any commas were in the wrong place, no one noticed. Whenever Erika encountered a story problem, shed describe it, and I being a bloke would come up with a simple solution that was clear, elegant and always so utterly wrong shed immediately devise her own. I dont think she once followed a suggestion of mine. I didnt envy her publishing a novel at that stage Fifty Shades Of Grey was barely known but I did envy the fun shed had writing it, which is why I decided to write my own. By that time Erika had published the rst two volumes of the Fifty Shades trilogy through a tiny Australian company. I felt a twinge of panic when she told me she was giving up her job she was the only one of us with a regular income but she wanted to focus on her writing, and she was selling a few hundred copies of Fifty Shades a week. I thought, well, we should be OK for six months or so, and Ill probably have landed an episode of something by then Nobody could have imagined how Fifty Shades would take o. At rst there were rumours on Twitter that American mums were exchanging copies at school gates and soccer pitches. That sounded sweet, and kind of naughty, but nothing to get excited about. Then, on New Years Eve 2011, two separate messages arrived from Hollywood producers asking about the movie rights, and a review appeared on Amazon by a reader who mentioned that every woman in her New York hairdressing salon was either reading the book or talking about it. We looked at each other and thought, Oh shit Throughout January and February, sales grew at an absurd, unbelievable rate. It topped the Amazon erotica chart, then their general ction chart, then entered the New York Times Bestsellers list and kept climbing. Emails demanded to know the name of the genius in charge of Erikas marketing campaign. There was no marketing campaign. Apart from a few book blogs, it was all word-ofmouth. In fact, Erika was turning down invitations to appear on US TV that any publicist would have killed for. But after 20-odd years in the business, television held absolutely no glamour for her, and the book was selling just ne without it: the original publisher couldnt meet the demand, and book shops were constantly running out of stock. Even when Random House took over as publisher, they could barely keep up. Women were buying copies by the half-dozen to give to their friends. By June it was causing paper shortages in the US, and lumber mills in Canada were rehiring laid-o workers. It was a tsunami, an avalanche I gave up trying to nd metaphors that could bear the

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 25

weight. Every week wed get reports of another sales record Erika had broken, and wed sit in our tatty Brentford kitchen trying to take it all in. Erika wrote Fifty Shades to entertain herself and a few online friends. She never dreamed it would become a bestseller, still less a landmark in publishing or a gure of speech. Our families and friends were, and are, as thrilled and proud and as amazed as we are, and we soon realised everyone in our street, and eventually the entire neighbourhood, knew exactly who EL James was. All the locals have been lovely, and said very little about it, apart from the occasional polite request for Erika to sign a book. Journalists ask if fans turn up on our doorstep asking silly questions. No, but journalists do. Do we have a dungeon? Or a Red Room of Pain? Maybe, and maybe theres a helicopter pad on the roof in case Christian Grey drops in for a spanking. Fifty Shades Of Grey is a fantasy have they forgotten what that means? Do they chase JK Rowling down the street daring her to use her Avra Kedavra spell? Do they ask Hilary Mantel how many courtiers shes beheaded? And in the middle of all this madness, just when I was getting used to my new career carrying my wifes bags to the airport, my agent sends the manuscript for Crusher to a publisher. And here we are. So, these days we have two novelists in the house. It would be nice to picture us working

Yes, we did swap our pongy old Honda for a big shiny VW, but thats about it

on opposite sides of the same desk, like Harold Pinter and Antonia Fraser, but in our case its probably better to stay out of crockerythrowing range. I work in my shed, Erika works at her desk, and we meet up in the kitchen for mealtimes or coee. Now were both freelance, our days are less predictable, but little else has changed. Commentators can conjure ridiculous royalty gures out of the air and imply that our afternoons are spent in an innity pool with trained dolphins bringing us goblets of chilled Bolly, but in real life the dog has to be walked, and the kids have to be fed and ferried around, and there are exam results and ageing relatives and the next novel to fret about. Yes, when Fifty Shades Of Grey hit number one on the NYT Bestseller List we swapped our pongy old Honda for a big shiny VW, but thats about it although now the door has fallen o the oven we may ret our tatty kitchen sooner rather than later. That cynical old hack Maguire would mutter that my novel is getting this coverage because Im Mr EL James. Well, of course it is. But, like most novelists, Im hardly going to refuse publicity. Im not a masochist. And thats all Im going to say about our sex life Crusher, by Niall Leonard, is published by Doubleday at 9.99. To order a copy for 7.99, including mainland UK p&p, call 0330 333 6846 or go to

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Tastes like home

Yotam Ottolenghi is back with a third cookbook to make your mouth water. Read our exclusive recipes from the much-anticipated Jerusalem. And theres just the one curveball ingredient to worry about Pictures: Jonathan Lovekin

It could all have been so dierent. If you had asked me 15 years ago what kind of food I would like to cook if I were to become a proper chef, Id have said very ne, nessed, Michelin-starred. Happily for anyone whos ever eaten at one of Yotam Ottolenghis ve London places or cooked from his books (his rst, Ottolenghi, is in Amazons top 10 best-selling cookbooks ever), the Michelin-star plan unravelled. He did try it, on the pastry section at The Capital in 1997 after abandoning a career in Israel as a journalist and academic, but I realised that that type of very structured cooking wasnt my style. By the time, two years later, he met fellow chef Sami Tamimi like him, from Jerusalem, though from a Palestinian rather than Jewish background he had discovered precisely what that style was. The pair, along with two other partners, opened the rst Ottolenghi in 2002, serving a joyous ri on the Levantine way of eating: exuberant, sunny avours, simple but inventive combinations, and a sense of abundance and generosity. Success came immediately, and over the next decade they opened three more branches of the eponymous deli/cafe brand, plus the slightly more glossy Nopi. Along the way, Ottolenghi breakfasts have come to dene a new blueprint for the ideal way to start a weekend, and Ottolenghi recipes the default option for aspirational dinner parties. Its also made Mediterranean and Middle Eastern ingredients such as zaatar, freekeh and sumac, if not quite store-cupboard essentials, less likely to be confused by British home cooks with 1970s progrock albums. Still, while most enjoy the food-nerd thrill of using such obscure ingredients, they trigger indignant frustration in others. Readers complain when they cant get hold of something at their local supermarket, he says, but I always write with the home cook in mind, and often say what to use as a substitute. And if I didnt use more unusual ingredients, people wouldnt read me. Every era has its own list of ingredients that are considered
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exotic and then, 15 years later, theyre not. His third book, Jerusalem (number three in Amazons food and drink chart even before its publication next week) oers a little less cause for consternation, because, says Ottolenghi, it features just one curveball ingredient: date syrup. It comes from Syria and Lebanon, and has a deep, fruity sweetness. Its great drizzled on roast veg or hummus-like pures. Its also likely that chards ubiquity in the book will see it surge in popularity in the way cavolo nero did after the rst River Cafe Cook Book. The new book grew out of a BBC documentary he lmed on Jerusalems food culture, and returning to the city that so shaped his own and Tamimis approach to food was an important milestone. I last lived there over 20 years ago, so it was interesting to go back and look at it with the eyes of a chef. I realised Id never been fully aware of the immense diversity of its food cultures. Similar programmes on Marrakech, Tunis, Istanbul and Tel Aviv are planned, but, disappointingly for his devotees outside London, Ottolenghis future doesnt include new openings beyond the capital. How we run the restaurants, with one of the four of us visiting each location every day, I dont see how we could control quality in the same way from a distance. The way his recipes are so exhaustively tested doesnt lend itself to a hands-o approach, either. Every recipe has been microscopically analysed does it need a hint less of that, a hint more of that? He laughs: I used to have a very unmediated experience of food but, because of the recipe testing, Ive lost that now. I cant switch it o even when Im on holiday. Nor, despite a decade of success, can he switch o the anxiety when he walks into one of his places and sees its not hummingly busy, That never entirely goes away. I still have it, and I think its right to have it if youre not to become blas. Interview by Jenny McIvor

Cooks and books: Yotam Ottolenghi (far left, with co-author and business partner Sami Tamimi) in one of their ve restaurants. Left: Chermoula aubergine with bulgar and yoghurt

Chermoula aubergine with bulgar and yoghurt Historically, bulgar (boiled wheat that has been dried and cracked or ground) was generally the rural peoples food in the Middle East, while rice was for more auent city folk. Today, this dierentiation is less relevant, with bulgar gaining popularity with everybody, particularly in salads and mezzes. Chermoula is a powerful North African paste that is brushed over sh and vegetables, giving them the perfumed aroma of preserved lemon mixed with heat and spice. These aubergines, avoured with chermoula and drizzled with cold yoghurt, would make a luscious start to any meal. Combined, as they are here, with the sweet and salty bulgar salad, they make a modest vegetarian feast. Serves four. 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp chilli akes 1 tsp sweet paprika 2 tbsp nely chopped preserved lemon skin 140ml olive oil, plus extra to nish Salt 2 medium aubergines 150g ne bulgar 50g sultanas 10g fresh coriander, chopped, plus extra to nish 10g fresh mint, chopped 50g pitted green olives, halved 30g aked almonds, toasted

3 spring onions, chopped 1 tbsp lemon juice 120g Greek yoghurt Heat the oven to 200C (180C fanassisted)/gas mark 6. To make the chermoula, in a small bowl mix the garlic, cumin, coriander, chilli, paprika, preserved lemon, two thirds of the olive oil and half a teaspoon of salt, and set aside. Cut the aubergines in half lengthways. Cut deep, diagonal, criss-cross scores into the esh of each aubergine half, making sure not to pierce the skin. Spoon chermoula over each half, spreading it evenly, and place, cut-side up, on a baking sheet. Roast for 40 minutes, or until the aubergines are completely soft. Meanwhile, put the bulgar in a large bowl and cover with 140ml of boiling water. Soak the sultanas in 50ml of warm water for 10 minutes, drain and add to the bulgar, along with the remaining oil. Stir in the herbs, olives, almonds, onion, lemon juice and a pinch of salt, taste and add more salt if necessary. Serve one half-aubergine per portion, warm or at room temperature. Top each with bulgar and a dollop of yoghurt, sprinkle with chopped coriander and nish with a drizzle of oil. Ruths stued Romano peppers This is Yotams mothers recipe. It is mellow yet delectable and you dont need much else with it add a crunchy kohlrabi salad and youre

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sorted. Use a frying pan or pot wide enough to accommodate the peppers snugly in one layer, or cook in two pans. Serves four generously. 8 medium Romano peppers 1 large tomato, roughly chopped 2 medium onions, peeled and roughly chopped About 500ml vegetable stock For the stung 140g basmati rice 1 tbsp baharat spice mix tsp ground cardamom 2 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, peeled and nely chopped 400g minced lamb 2 tbsp chopped at-leaf parsley 2 tbsp chopped dill 1 tbsp dried mint 1 tsp sugar Salt and black pepper Start with the stung. Put the rice in a saucepan, cover with lightly salted water, bring to the boil and cook for four minutes. Drain, refresh under cold water and set aside. Dry-fry the spices until they release their aroma, then add the oil and onion, and fry for seven minutes, stirring often, until soft. Tip into a large bowl, add the rice, meat, herbs, sugar and a teaspoon of salt, and mix together with your hands. From the stalk end, cut lengthways three-quarters of the way down each pepper (take care to keep the stalk attached), so creating a long opening. Without forcing the pepper open too much, spoon out the seeds and pith, then spoon about 100g of the stung into each one. Put the chopped tomato and onion in a very large frying pan for which you have a tight-tting lid. Put the peppers on top in a snug, single layer, pour in just enough stock to come 1cm up the sides of

the peppers, and season with half a teaspoon of salt and some black pepper. Cover the pan and simmer on the lowest possible heat for an hour its important that the lling is just steamed, so the lid needs to t tightly; and make sure there is always a bit of liquid at the bottom of the pan. Serve the peppers warm or at room temperature. Roasted sweet potatoes and fresh gs This unusual combination of fresh fruit and roasted vegetables is one of the most popular at Ottolenghi. It wholly depends on the gs being sweet, moist and perfectly ripe. Go for plump fruit with an irregular shape and a slightly split bottom pressing against the skin should result in some resistance, but not much. And try to smell the sweetness. The balsamic reduction is very eective here, both for the look and for rounding up the avours. Serves four. 4 small sweet potatoes (1kg or so 5 tbsp olive oil 40ml balsamic vinegar (dont use a premium aged grade) 20g caster sugar

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Stued romano peppers (left), an Ottolenghi family favourite from Yotams childhood, roast sweet potatoes with gs (bottom, left) and saron rice with barberries (below, right)

12 spring onions, cut in half lengthways and then into 4cm segments 1 red chilli, thinly sliced 6 ripe gs, quartered 150g soft goats cheese, crumbled (optional) Maldon sea salt and black pepper Heat the oven to 240C (220C fanassisted)/gas mark 9. Wash the sweet potatoes, cut them in half lengthways and then cut each half into three long wedges. Mix with three tablespoons of the oil, two teaspoons of salt and some black pepper. Spread the wedges out, skin-side down, on a baking sheet and cook for about 25 minutes, until soft but not mushy. Remove and leave to cool down. To make the balsamic reduction, put the balsamic vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan, bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for two to four minutes, until it thickens. Remove the pan from the heat when the vinegar is still runnier than honey because it will continue to thicken as it cools. If it becomes to thick to drizzle, stir in a drop of water before serving. Arrange the sweet potatoes on a serving platter. Heat the remaining oil in a medium saucepan and add the spring onions and chilli. Fry on a medium heat for four to ve minutes, stirring often, making sure not to burn the chilli, then spoon over the sweet potatoes. Dot the gs among the wedges and drizzle over the balsamic reduction. Serve at room temperature, with crumbled cheese scattered on top, if using. Saron rice with barberries, pistachio and mixed herbs Barberries are tiny, jewel-like, dried sweet-and-sour Iranian berries that weve been using a bit obsessively recently. It is hard not to their

intense sharpness accentuates other avours in a dish and adds wonderful drama to its looks. You can get them online, or from Iranian and some Middle Eastern grocers. If you cant nd any, use currants soaked in a little lemon juice instead. Serve this rice with roast chicken or turkey and courgette burgers with spring onion and cumin. Serves six. 40g unsalted butter 360g basmati rice, rinsed under cold water and drained 560ml boiling water Salt and freshly ground white pepper 1 tsp saron threads, soaked for 30 minutes in 3 tbsp boiling water 40g dried barberries, soaked for a few minutes in freshly boiled water with a pinch of sugar 30g dill, roughly chopped 20g chervil, roughly chopped 10g tarragon, roughly chopped 60g slivered or crushed unsalted pistachios, lightly toasted Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and stir in the rice, making sure the grains are well coated. Add the boiling water, a teaspoon of salt and some white pepper. Mix well, cover with a tight-tting lid and cook on a very low heat for 15 minutes. Dont be tempted to uncover the pan you need to let the rice to steam properly. Remove the pan from the heat all the water will have been absorbed by the rice and pour the saron water over about a quarter of the surface, leaving most of the rice white. Cover with a tea towel, reseal tightly with the lid and set aside for ve to 10 minutes. With a large spoon, transfer the white rice to a large bowl and u it up with a fork. Drain the barberries and stir them in, followed by the herbs and most of the pistachios, reserving a few to garnish. Flu up

the saron rice in the pan, then fold gently into the white rice dont overmix: you dont want the white grains to be stained by the yellow ones. Taste, adjust the seasoning and transfer to a shallow serving bowl. Scatter the remaining pistachios on top and serve warm or at room temperature. Cod cakes in tomato sauce With their sweet and slightly sharp sauce, these sh cakes (pictured overleaf) capture much of the spirit of Sephardi food. They are delicate, almost brittle, very comforting and popular among Syrian Jews. If anything, they taste even better the day after. Serve with bulgar, rice, couscous or bread, and some sauted spinach or Swiss chard. Makes eight shcakes, to serve four. 3 slices good white bread, crusts removed 600g sustainably sourced cod (llet, or halibut, hake or pollock), skinless and boneless 1 medium onion, peeled and nely chopped 4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 30g at-leaf parsley, nely chopped

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 31

Mackerel with golden beetroot and orange salsa (left) and cod cakes in tomato sauce (left, below)

30g coriander, nely chopped 1 tbsp ground cumin 1 tsp salt 2 large free-range eggs, beaten 4 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped For the tomato sauce 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp ground cumin tsp sweet paprika 1 tsp ground coriander 1 medium onion, chopped 125ml white wine 400g tin chopped tomatoes 1 red chilli, deseeded and nely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 tsp caster sugar Salt and black pepper First make the tomato sauce. Heat the oil in a very large frying pan for which you have a lid and add the spices and onion. Cook for eight to 10 minutes, until completely soft, then add the wine and simmer for three minutes. Add the tomatoes, chilli, garlic, sugar, half a teaspoon of salt and some black pepper. Simmer for about 15 minutes, until quite thick, taste to adjust the seasoning and set aside. While the sauce is cooking, make the shcakes. Put the bread in a food processor and blitz to breadcrumbs. Chop the sh very nely and put in a bowl with the breadcrumbs and everything else but the olive oil. Mix well, use your hands to shape into compact cakes about 2cm thick and 8cm wide. If the cakes are very soft, refrigerate for 30 minutes so they rm up (you could also add some dried breadcrumbs to the mix, but do so only sparingly the uncooked cakes should be quite wet.) Heat half the olive oil in a frying pan and sear the cakes for three minutes on each side, so they colour well on both sides. Add the remaining oil as you fry the cakes. Place the seared cakes gently, side by side, in the tomato sauce if need be, squeeze them a bit so they all t in a single layer. Add just enough water partially to cover the cakes about 200ml or so cover the pan with a lid and simmer on a very low heat for 1520 minutes. Turn o the heat and leave the cakes to settle, uncovered, for at least 10 minutes before serving warm or at room temperature, sprinkled with mint. Pan-fried mackerel with golden beetroot and orange salsa The salsa served with this sh is inspired by a traditional Moroccan orange and olive salad (you can turn it back into a salad by adding a few bitter leaves). And by all means use regular beetroot instead of golden. Serves four as starter. 1 tbsp harissa paste 1 tsp ground cumin 4 mackerel llets, with skin 1 medium golden beetroot (about 100g in total) 1 medium orange 1 small lemon, halved widthways 30g pitted Kalamata olives, quartered lengthways small red onion, peeled and nely chopped 15g chopped at-leaf parsley tsp coriander seeds, toasted and crushed tsp cumin seeds, toasted and crushed tsp sweet paprika tsp chilli akes 1 tbsp hazelnut or walnut oil tsp olive oil Salt

Mix together the harissa, cumin and a pinch of salt, rub this all over the mackerel llets, and set aside in the fridge until youre ready to cook. Boil the beetroot in plenty of water for about 20 minutes (they may take much longer, depending on the variety), until a skewer goes in smoothly. Drain and, when cool enough to handle, peel, then cut into 5mm dice and place in a bowl. Peel the orange and one lemon half, making sure you remove all the outer pith, then cut them into quarters. Remove the middle pith and any seeds, and cut the esh into 5mm dice. Add to the beetroot bowl, along with the olives, red onion and parsley. In a separate bowl, mix the spices, the juice of the remaining lemon half and the nut oil. Pour this on to the beetroot and orange mix, stir and season with salt to taste. Its best to let the salsa to stand at room temperature for at least 10 minutes, to allow the avours to mingle. Just before serving, heat the olive oil in a large, nonstick frying pan. Lay in the mackerel llets skinside down, and cook on medium heat for about three minutes in all, depending on size, turning once about a minute from time. Transfer to serving plates and spoon the salsa on top. Beef meatballs with broad beans and lemon Fresh, sharp and very, very tasty, these meatballs (pictured overleaf) are our idea of the perfect spring supper. Serve them with basmati rice and there isnt much need for anything else. Whole blanched almonds make a good addition, for texture as well as for taste add them to the pan at the same time as the unshelled broad beans. Makes about 20 meatballs, to serve four.

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 33

Beef meatballs with broad beans and lemon (left) and lamb shawarma (below)

4 tbsp olive oil 350g broad beans, fresh or frozen 4 whole thyme sprigs 6 garlic cloves, sliced 8 spring onions, cut at an angle into 2cm segments 2 tbsp lemon juice 500ml chicken stock Salt and black pepper For the meatballs 300g minced beef 150g minced lamb 1 medium onion, nely chopped 120g breadcrumbs 2 tbsp each chopped at-leaf parsley, mint, dill and coriander, plus tbsp extra of each to nish 2 large garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp baharat spice mix 1 tbsp ground cumin 2 tsp capers, chopped 1 egg, beaten Put all the ingredients for the meatballs in a large bowl. Add threequarters of a teaspoon of salt and plenty of black pepper, mix with your hands and form into balls about the size of ping-pong balls. Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in an extra-large frying pan for which you have a lid. Sear half the meatballs over a medium heat, turning them until they are brown all over this will take about ve minutes. Remove from the pan, add another half-tablespoon of oil to the pan and cook the other batch of meatballs. Once browned all over, remove these from the pan, too, then wipe it clean with kitchen towel. While the meatballs are cooking, throw the broad beans into a pot with plenty of salted boiling water and blanch for two minutes. Drain, refresh under cold water, then remove and discard the skins from half the broad beans. Heat the remaining oil in the meatball pan, add the thyme, garlic

cinnamon sticks, cardamom powder for pods and leave out the star anise. Always serve shawarma with fresh cucumber and tomato salad, dressed with lemon juice, olive oil, garlic and chopped parsley or coriander this meat really needs that freshness and moisture. On top of that, you can serve rice or bulgar and/or tahini sauce. If you wish, add some peeled waxy potatoes to the roasting tin about 90 minutes before the lamb is ready, and toss them in the cooking liquids every now and then while theyre cooking. Serves eight. 2 tsp black peppercorns 5 cloves tsp cardamom pods tsp fenugreek seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 tbsp cumin seeds 1 star anise a cinnamon stick a nutmeg, grated tsp ground ginger 1 tbsp sweet paprika 1 tbsp sumac tbsp Maldon sea salt 25g fresh ginger, grated 3 garlic cloves, crushed 40g chopped coriander, stems and leaves

and spring onion, and saut over a medium heat for three minutes. Add the unshelled broad beans, one and a half tablespoons of the lemon juice, 80ml of the stock, a quarterteaspoon of salt and plenty of black pepper. The beans should be almost covered by liquid. Pop on the lid and cook over a low heat for 10 minutes. Return the meatballs to the pan, add the remaining stock, cover again and simmer gently for 25 minutes. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning. If it is still very runny, remove the lid and reduce a little. Once the meatballs stop cooking, they will soak up a lot of the juices, so make sure there is still plenty of sauce at this point. You can leave the meatballs now, o the heat, until youre ready to serve. Just before serving, reheat the meatballs and add a little water, if needed, to get enough sauce. Gently stir in the remaining herbs, lemon juice and the shelled broad beans and serve immediately. Lamb shawarma This is hardly a proper shawarma recipe, but then few people have

a vertical rotating skewer at home. Still, this ends up tasting close enough to the real thing, which is as common and popular in Jerusalem as it is everywhere else in the Middle East (and beyond). The rst 11 ingredients make a versatile spice mix that can be used to marinate sh, meat or root vegetables before roasting or grilling. If you dont have a spice grinder, use a pestle and mortar, and substitute ground cinnamon for

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 35

Roast chicken with Jerusalem artichoke and lemon

60ml lemon juice 120ml groundnut oil 2.5-3kg leg of lamb, bone in Put the rst eight ingredients in a cast-iron pan and dry-roast on mediumhigh heat for a minute or two, until the spices begin to pop and release their aroma take care not to burn them. Add the nutmeg, ginger and paprika, toss for a few seconds, just to heat them, then transfer the whole lot to a spice grinder. Process the spices to a uniform powder, then transfer to a medium bowl and stir in all the remaining ingredients, apart from the lamb. Use a small, sharp knife to score the leg of lamb in a few places, making 1.5cm-deep slits through the fat and meat to allow the marinade to seep in. Place the leg in a large roasting tin and rub the marinade all over; use your hands to massage the meat well. Cover the tin with foil and set aside for at least a couple of hours or, preferably, keep it in the fridge overnight. Heat the oven to 170C (150C fanassisted)/gas mark 3. Take the foil o the tray (reserve it for later) and put the lamb in the oven with its fatty side facing up. Roast for a total of about four and a half hours, until the meat is completely tender. After 30 minutes of roasting, add about 250ml of boiling water to the pan and use this to baste the meat every hour or so. Add more water, as needed, making sure there is always about half a centimetre in the bottom of the tin. For the last three hours of cooking, cover the lamb with the reserved foil to prevent the spices from burning. Once cooked, remove the lamb from the oven and leave to rest for 10 minutes before carving. The way we serve our shawarma is inspired by Israels most renowned

shakshuka eatery , Dr Shakshuka in Jaa. Take six individual pita pockets and liberally brush the insides with a spread made by mixing together 120g chopped tinned tomatoes, 20g harissa, 20g tomato paste, a tablespoon of olive oil and some salt and pepper. When the lamb is ready, warm the pitas in a hot, ridged griddle pan until they have nice char marks on both sides. Carve the warm lamb into slices, then cut these into 1.5cm strips. Pile them high over each warm pita, spoon over some of the reduced roasting liquids from the pan, and nish with chopped onion, chopped parsley and a sprinkling of sumac. And dont forget the fresh cucumber and tomato. Its a heavenly dish. Roast chicken with Jerusalem artichoke and lemon Jerusalem artichokes are well loved in the city but have actually got nothing to do with it; not ocially, anyway the name is a distortion of the Italian name for this sunower tuber (girasole articiocco), which has an artichoke-like avour. The

combination of saron and whole lemon slices not only makes for a beautiful-looking dish, it also goes exceptionally well with the nutty earthiness of the artichokes. This dish is really easy to prepare you just need to plan ahead and leave it to marinate properly. Serves four. 450g Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and cut into six lengthways (1.5cm thick wedges) 3 tbsp lemon juice 8 chicken thighs, with the bone and skin (or 1 whole chicken, cut into four) 12 banana shallots, peeled and halved lengthways 12 large garlic cloves, sliced 1 medium lemon, cut in half lengthways and then into very thin slices 1 tsp saron threads 50ml olive oil 150ml cold water 1 tbsp pink peppercorns, slightly crushed 10g fresh thyme leaves 40g tarragon leaves, chopped 2 tsp salt tsp black pepper

Put the Jerusalem artichokes in a medium saucepan, cover with plenty of water and add half the lemon juice. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 1020 minutes, until tender but not soft. Drain and leave to cool. Put the Jerusalem artichokes and all the remaining ingredients bar the remaining lemon juice and half of the tarragon, in a large bowl and mix together with your hands. Cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least two hours, and preferably overnight. Heat the oven to 240C (220C fanassisted)/gas mark 9. Arrange the chicken pieces skin-side up in the centre of a roasting tin and spread the Jerusalem artichoke mixture around it. Roast for 30 minutes, cover the tin with foil and cook for 15 minutes more. By this point, the chicken should be completely cooked. Remove from the oven, stir in the reserved tarragon and lemon juice, taste and add more salt if needed. Serve at once. Clementine and almond syrup cake This fragrant cake (pictured overleaf) has a wonderful light texture and will keep, covered, for at least a week. Oranges make an adequate substitute for the clementines. A citrus zester, inexpensive and widely available, is the ideal tool for getting the long, even strips of orange zest needed to garnish the cake. Serves eight to 10. 200g unsalted butter 380g caster sugar Grated zest and juice of 4 clementines Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon 280g ground almonds 5 medium free-range eggs, beaten 100g plain our, sifted A pinch of salt Long strips of orange zest, to garnish

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 37

Clementine and almond syrup cake (left) and spice cookies (below)

Heat the oven to 180C (160C fanassisted)/gas mark 4. Lightly grease a 24cm spring-form tin and line the sides and base with baking parchment. Put the butter, 300g of the sugar and the lemon and clementine zest in a mixer bowl and use a beater attachment on a slow speed to combine everything do not work the mix too much or incorporate much air. Add half the ground almonds and continue mixing to fold through. With the machine running, gradually add the eggs, scraping the bottom and sides of the bowl a couple of times as you go. Add the remaining ground almonds, our and salt, and work them in until the mix is completely smooth. Spread the batter inside the cake tin and level it o with a palette knife. Bake for 5060 minutes check that its ready by inserting a skewer: it should come out a little bit moist. When the cake is almost cooked through, put the remaining sugar and the citrus juices (you need around 120ml, so remove some if need be) in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. The moment it comes to a boil, remove the pan from the heat. As soon as the cake comes out of the oven, brush the boiling syrup over the top, until it has all soaked through. Leave the cake to cool down completely in the tin, then remove from the tin and serve it as it is, garnished with orange strips, or store it for up to three days in an airtight container. Spice cookies In the late 19th century, the Templars arrived in Jerusalem from Europe and established the citys German colony, a picturesque little neighbourhood to the south-west of the old city

that to this day feels unusually Central European its where you head for a coee and a slice of sachertorte when you want to escape the loud, harsh Levantine reality for a few hours. Czech, Austrian, Hungarian and German Jews arriving in the city from the 1930s have also stamped their mark, opening numerous cafes and bakeries serving Austro-Hungarian classics. These cookies are very loosely inspired by duvshanyot, or pfeernsse, and are hugely popular at Ottolenghi at Easter and Christmas. The recipe was adapted from the excellent The International Cookie Cookbook, by Nancy Baggett. Makes 16 cookies 125g currants 2 tbsp brandy 240g plain our tbsp best-quality cocoa powder tsp baking powder tsp bicarbonate of soda tsp each ground cinnamon, allspice, ginger and nutmeg tsp salt 150g good-quality dark chocolate, coarsely grated

125g unsalted butter, at room temperature 125g caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla essence tsp grated lemon zest tsp grated orange zest medium free-range egg 1 tbsp diced candied citrus peel For the glaze 3 tbsp lemon juice 160g icing sugar Soak the currants in the brandy for 10 minutes. Mix together the our,

cocoa powder, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda, spices, salt and grated chocolate, and whisk well to combine. Put the butter, sugar, vanilla essence, lemon zest and orange zest in the bowl of a mixer and beat to combine without aerating too much no more than about a minute. With the machine is running, slowly add the egg and mix for another minute. Add the dry ingredients, followed by the currants and brandy, and mix again until everything comes together. Remove the bowl from the machine and use your hands gently to knead the mix into a uniform dough. Divide this into 50g chunks and shape each one into a neat round ball. Place these 2cm apart on two baking sheets lined with baking paper, and leave to rest in the fridge for at least an hour. Heat the oven to 190C (170C fanassisted)/gas mark 5. Bake the cookies for 1520 minutes, until their tops rm up but the centre is still slightly soft. Remove from the oven, leave for ve minutes to cool slightly, then transfer to a wire rack. While the cookies are still warm, whisk together the glaze ingredients until you have a thin, smooth icing and pour a tablespoon over each biscuit, leaving it to drip over and coat each biscuit with a very thin, almost transparent lm. Finish the cookies by placing three pieces of candied peel at the centre of each. Leave to set and serve, or store in an airtight container for a day or two These recipes are extracted from Jerusalem, by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi, published by Ebury Press at 27. To order a copy for 16 (inc free UK mainland p&p), go to, or call 0330 333 6846.
The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 39


40 1 September 2012 | The Guardian Weekend

fashion beauty food & drink mind relationships homes gardens property cars puzzles

Jane McMillan
I like to co-ordinate colours. I know its a bit old-fashioned. For this outt, Ive dressed down a jacket of my own design with navy Topshop cords and gold trainers by the Japanese designer Tsumori Chisato. My style is feminine with a modern edge. Shopping is one of my vices. I tell myself Im just going for a walk, but then I end up on Kings Road and cant resist. I used to only wear samples from my own label, but now Ive got a wardrobe lled with Orla Kierly, Miu Miu, and Marni for H&M. Ive been through a baking phase, and come out the other side. My friends bought me the Hummingbird Bakery Cookbook they must think Im domesticated. Im far from it, but I felt obliged to use the book. I made lavender cupcakes, pineapple cupcakes, coconut cupcakes. There were a lot of afternoon tea parties in my house for a while. Ive spent three years decorating my at. It all started with a sofa. I thought sofas had to be beige, then I spotted one in fuchsia, chartreuse and gold at the Designers Guild and thought, why not? Everything else had to work around the sofa. The walls are neutral, the furniture is white lacquer so the light reects o it, and the colour comes from the soft furnishings. Its a ladys at. I havent had to answer to anyone else, and thats been great. If I want pink, I can have pink. If someone else ever moves in, well need to build another sitting room. Interview by Becky Barnicoat


Are you a Weekender? Email a photo and a brief description of how you spend your weekends to

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 41


Acting up Shes best mates

with Lady Mary, but Ruth Wilson tells Emma Brockes why she sidestepped Downton in favour of Tolstoy. Photographs by Bjarne Jonasson. Styling by Erin OKeefe

Ruth Wilson talks brusquely, in quick, ungainly sentences that take one back to her excellent Jane Eyre and make her seem, oddly, both older and younger than her 30 years. She is about to appear in Tom Stoppards adaptation of Anna Karenina, directed by Joe Wright and starring Keira Knightley in the title role, is currently lming The Lone Ranger in Colorado, and shows every indication of joining the rst ranks of Britains leading ladies. Ive always been quite shy, she says. Very condent but very shy. She laughs awkwardly. If there is such a thing as belligerent shyness, this is it what it looks like. We are in a coee shop in Manhattan, where Wilson is spending a few days before returning to Colorado. Anna Karenina is the rst book adaptation she has done since the Bront series and the TV version of Small Island she avoided period dramas for a while and wasnt sorry to be occupied when Downton Abbey was casting. In all of those cases, the rst thing she did on being cast was to read the book, not always a popular move with a director, since the character on screen has often moved away from what appears on the page. So, in Anna Karenina, what Im
42 1 September 2012 | The Guardian Weekend

doing with the character of Betsy is so dierent from whats in the book. Reading the novel helps, and it doesnt as well. For Jane Eyre, it was my bible. Small Island, I loved using it. It gives you loads of notes, all the feelings and the thought processes. So you can use it as a cheat. Her parents, now retired, often join Wilson for a few days on set, which is a nice treat for her they all went riding in Colorado. She grew up the youngest of four children in Surrey, her mum a probation ocer, her dad an investment banker. Or fund manager I never really know. Her decision to go to drama school was considered eccentric within the family. Her poor dad, she says, was looking forward to having the last of his children nancially o his hands, when she broke the news, after graduating from Nottingham, that she wanted to do another two years of study at Lamda. They said, let her go, lets see what happens. Mum says she never had much faith that anything was going to happen! Things happened fairly swiftly. She had started acting as a teenager in a youth group and always had an inkling about carrying it on as a career, although it felt quite embarrassing to say I want

The hole truth Sweater, from a selection, by Charlotte Ronson,

When I go back to the National now, it still brings back the scariest of feelings. Shudders go through me as I walk in

to be an actor. She chose Nottingham University for its on-campus theatre and, while doing a history degree, took part in student productions. One year, she and some friends created a show and took it to the Edinburgh Festival. And people came to see it! I mean, they walked out in the rst few days and then we changed it. They wrote it in 10 days in an outhouse in St Andrews; it was a silent comedy, with lots of slapstick and slow-motion. Weve still got it on video somewhere. I keep wanting to do it again, but it might be a disaster. In any case, during the festival she realised how much she wanted to be a professional actor, not least for the travel. She didnt have to wait long. Shortly after graduating, she was cast as the lead in a new TV adaptation of Jane Eyre, opposite Toby Stephens as Rochester, a tough role to make her own in the wake of so many predecessors most recently, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Mia Wasikowska and Samantha Morton. Wilson, as it turned out, was very good; stoic, self-contained, implacable bordering on glum, hard to read and much commented on at the time, this, since there is thought to be no greater test of an actors powers than to subdue her own vanity plain, as the role demands. She was not, she says, intimidated by taking on such an iconic part I dont think that registered with me. Neither was she starstruck. I can just get on with the job. If someone famous was in here, I wouldnt go up to them. Id keep my distance until we were properly introduced. She was nervous, though, during the rst read through of the Stephen Poliako drama Capturing Mary, which she appeared in the following year. She found herself round a table with Poliako, David Walliams and Maggie Smith such a weird combination. David, at the time, was very famous, very commercial, and then you had Maggie just, you know, Dame Maggie that was nerve-wracking. She looks eetingly bleak. Did it
44 1 September 2012 | The Guardian Weekend

feel as if she was being tested? Yes. Its the rst time youve performed it to other people. Some people just mumble into the page. Others really go for it. Everyone is thinking about their own stu, so really youve got nothing to worry about. But you always worry what everybody else thinks. It was on the strength of these roles that Wilson was cast in her rst stage production, in Maxim Gorkys Philistines at the National Theatre. It was a big moment. You aspire to be at the National and then youre like, oh God, am I ready for it? Opening the play was the scariest thing. When I go back to the National now, it still brings back those feelings. Shudders go through me as I walk in. Since then, she has won two Olivier awards for her role as Stella, in the 2009 Donmar Warehouse production of A Streetcar Named Desire, and two years later in the title role of the Donmars Anna Christie. She has appeared opposite Idris Elba in the TV show Luther. And she has made Anna Karenina, conveniently located at Shepperton, where her parents live. (Her great friend, Michelle Dockery, is also in the lm and Wilson invited Dockery to stay over in her parents spare room one night before lming; an exciting prospect for her parents, both fans of Downton Abbey, to have Lady Mary in the house.) Wilsons own home, which shes rarely in, is a rented at-share in Waterloo not too expensive, great location; her atmate is an old friend from drama college who is now teaching. She supposes she should look for somewhere to buy. To invest. But I want to wait until I can nd somewhere that feels like home. When she returns to Colorado, it will be to the Johnny Depp/Helena Bonham Carter production of The Lone Ranger, directed by Gore Verbinski (Pirates Of The Caribbean). Wilson is, she says, still learning her range, so its fun to do an action movie. After that, who knows. But it seems likely the steady climb will continue Anna Karenina is due for release on Friday.

Sitting pretty Blouse (left), 705, by Sonia Rykiel, soniarykiel. com. Trousers, 100, by Ralph Lauren Blue Label, Eyes front Jumpsuit (top, left), 750, by Yigal Azroul, Makeup by Hung at the Wall Group


All ages When youre feeling blue

Rory wears blazer, 79.99, by Zara, Heels, 150, by Kurt Geiger, Blouse, 230, by Equipment, from Fenwick, Denim skirt, 40, by BDG, from Urban Outtters, urbanouttters. Silk bird-print scarf, 95, by MiH, from Fenwick, as before. Pam wears trousers, 130, by Sandro, sandro-paris. com. Jumper, 36, by Topshop, Boots, Pams own. Annaliese wears angora jumper, 49.99, by H&M, High-waisted skirt, by J Crew, Heels, 25, by Zara, as before. Barbara wears trousers, 179, by MSGM, from Fenwick, as before. T-shirt, 15.99, by Zara, as before. Crepe shirt, 110, by Reiss, Patent heels, 60, by Aldo, Vika wears blazer, 635, by Paul Smith, from Fenwick, as before. High-top trainers, 65, by Nike, Trousers, 110, by Reiss, as before. Shirt, 29.99, by H&M, as before.

2 3 4 5

Photographer: David Newby for the Guardian. Stylist: Priscilla Kwateng. Photographers assistant: Luke Smith. Stylists assistants: Grace Quinn and Misty Griths. Hair: Jen Fechter (, using Ojon Haircarw, and Lina Dahlbeck at Mandy Coakley. Makeup: Lina Dahlbeck at Mandy Coakley and Lisa Stokes using Dior Winter Look. Models: Rory, Barbara and Vika at Nevs Models, Pam at Ugly Models, and Annaliese at Zone Models. Shot at the Old Shoe Factory.

46 1 September 2012 | The Guardian Weekend

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 47


Wish list What we like this week


1 3 4
1 Jumper, 115.51, 2 Bag, 145, by Eley Kishimoto, from 3 Skirt, 32, by Folks Like Us, from 4 Dress, 310, 5 Necklace, 330, by Angelo Figus, from

48 1 September 2012 | The Guardian Weekend


How to dress Wide is the mark


hy does familiarity breed contempt? Horrid phrase. Also, not true. The smell of coee in the morning. Daisies. The Beatles. The Fawlty Towers episode when Basil is trying to hide his betting winnings from Sybil. Some things never get old. But in fashion everything does get old, and familiarity does breed contempt. Nothing lasts for ever. The perfect cashmere crewneck? Dont rest on your laurels, because if the bobbles dont get it, the moths will. The dream pair of black trousers that go with everything? Fine, but you know that by next year theyll have started doing that irritating thing where they develop comedy knee bags by lunchtime. And the things that do last fare no better, because they go out of fashion usually about the time youve got comfortable with how to wear them. The era of the skinny jean may be drawing to a close. Dont panic Ive checked, and Kate Moss is still wearing them, so were ne for a bit. But skinny jeans dont make you look fashionable. They cant, because too many people are wearing them.

A fashion-forward trend is like a lifeboat. Once too many people climb aboard, youre sunk. And when you come to think about it, if skinny jeans dont make you look fashionable, what exactly is the point? Because they almost denitely dont atter your gure. The only bodies that look really good in skinny jeans are the kind that look good in absolutely everything. The rest of us well, lets be honest, weve been grin-andbearing the carrot-leg thing to try TO look down with the kids, right? And now that weve acclimatised to the skinny shape, the notion of switching back to a wide-leg trouser is daunting. But thats where fashion is going. Stella McCartney and Jil Sander both put elegant, wide trousers on their catwalks for this season. And history or at least my net-a-porter account history teaches us that where those two labels go, the rest of us end up following. Familiarity with the buttock contours of everyone at your bus stop has, it seemed, bred contempt. Even for the skinny jean. Blouse, 259, by Goat, from Fenwick, Trousers, 18, by asos. com. Shoes, from a selection, by Nine West, from Kurt Geiger,

The Measure
Gaps colour block clutches Purple with navy or pink with red. These natty zippy numbers are sleekly at and fabulously statement. Pearls Predicting a post Anna Karenina comeback. See also plush coat collars and faux fur hats. Undercover for Uniqlo Dudes, if you want a smashing navy peacoat or some nerdy plimsolls, look no further than this new collaboration. Parades End on the BBC Weve forgiven Benedict Cumberbatch over posh-gate and were ready for his close-up. John Slattery/Roger Sterling The Mad Men actor is rumoured to star in Arrested Development 4. Which is lming now. The wait begins.

Rich Kids of Instagram The tumblr page which collates the expensive, meaningless ways the o-spring of the wealthy spend their time. Horribly compelling. Beckham in his pants We now prefer him in clothes. The Miracle dress All over the high street. All over. Expensive running shoes Bet youre regretting that purchase now the post-Olympics euphoria has died down. Pineapples Overexposed. This week were all about pomegranate. So jazzy in a salad.


1 Black and white check, 40, 2 Navy, 119, 3 White, 30, 4 Brown check, 38,


Get the look Sali Hughess unsung heroes

was recently at a function with several beauty editors when some lighthearted shop talk revealed that 60% of the group used the same skincare product regularly. Este Lauders Advanced Night Repair is a serum for use morning and night (I know, its an unhelpful name), and I have never known anyones skin not improve after regular use. Nor have I known anyone to react badly to its supergentle, moist-but-not-oily formula. Skin feels soft, hydrated and silky. I realised that, for all the brand new skincare products beauty editors are sent, and for all the raving about new launches our job entails, many of us remain devoted to this 30-year-old product. It got me thinking about all the other products I rely on that perhaps no longer come with a fanfare and full-page gush in a glossy magazine, or a sexy new formula incorporating the faddy ingredient du jour. They just plough on regardless, like noble foot soldiers, looking fabulous and doing their job better than anything else. There are lots of these faithful, much-loved products in my bathroom cabinet. It was very dicult to choose just six, so I may do a follow-up column to give every one of them their proper dues. Mason Pearson hairbrushes, from 31, Every top hairdresser Ive ever worked with has one in their kitbag.

What I see in the mirror

Im pleased with the way I look, considering Im 58. Not too much damage has been done even my eyes arent particularly wrinkled. If I could change anything, Id be a couple of inches taller. I cant wear heels any more, since doing so much running, and in my ats Im 5ft 6in. These days, I run on a treadmill as its easier on the joints. But dogwalking is better when there are two eyes looking up at you, desperately needing a walk, theres no excuse. I dont have much of a skincare routine. I brush o dead cells, which brightens my complexion, and moisturise morning and night Ive always done that, and its really paid o. And Ive generally stayed out of the sun, under my hat. Most people dont think Im as old as I am, which is great. But also slightly depressing, somehow I think women are valued more for their looks than men. Ive got big boobs and wear clothes that disguise them, otherwise I dont think men would ever look past them. Being adopted by white parents meant that, for a long time, I didnt really have any black role models. That changed when I discovered Marsha Hunt and Diana Ross, who were the rst beautiful black women Id seen. On TV, back then, black women were usually maids. It also meant no one in my family knew what to do with my hair. I still dont worry about it Ive not been to a hairdresser in 10 years. Black By Design: A 2-Tone Memoir, by Pauline Black, is out now, published by Serpents Tail at 8.99.
The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 55


Este Lauder Advanced Night Repair, 44, Whenever Im asked which is the best allround antiageing serum, I say this.

Stila Convertible Colour, 16, Smudge on to cheeks and c lips for a moist, pretty glow. I am devoted to d Peony.

Escentric Molecules Molecule 01, 38, cultbeauty. Every time I admire someones scent, it seems to be this. Dierent on everyone.

Revlon Enamel in Revlon Red, 6.49, Red polishes come and go, but this perfect shade cant be beaten. Think Joan Collinss nails in some studs back.

Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse, 16.50, salonskincare. Use as a facial oil, non-greasy hair smoother and all over limbs to give a beautiful, golden sheen.


Dan Lepard Dont let the sherry sit unloved at the back of the drinks cupboard. It works wonders in cake and bread
the top of the loaf with milk, and cut a 1cm-deep slash along the centre. Bake for about 40 minutes, until the crust is a good, rich golden-brown.


The raisin bread also makes a good base for this pudding, which is lovely served barely warm with a little more sherry spooned over the top and some vanilla ice-cream. The combination of warm bread-andbutter pudding and cold ice-cream is embedded somewhere in my memory as one of the most comforting of all desserts.
75ml pedro ximenez or cream sherry 3 tsp vanilla extract 5 medium eggs 375ml milk 125ml double cream Fruit bread (such as the one in the preceding recipe)


Sherry is one of those drinks that I really like but never quite nd the right moment for, so it tends to sit at the back of the tipples cupboard for most for the year. That was until my new friend Jos F Ferre, a photojournalist turned food blogger at, charmed me into baking more often with it. Though Id still leave the very dry, steely types for sipping, our beloved cream sherry (made by combining extra sweet with a dry type) has many uses in baking. From a simple syrup for soaking a fat baba in or spooning over fruit cakes, to using it instead of milk or water, sherry adds a gentle avour that lends richness without being immediately detectable. The eect is subtle, so dont splash out on an expensive brand (though its rarely that pricey). Rather, view this as a chance to make more from a neglected wine.


Good for breakfast toasted and simply buttered or slathered with marmalade. Yes, its heaving with calories, but seeing as were told that breakfast is the best time to eat like a king, then so be it. Once baked, I slice it and keep it in the freezer, then whip out a few slices and toast from frozen for those special mornings.
200ml medium sherry, such as oloroso dulce 200ml whole milk, plus a little extra for brushing 100g Seville marmalade 2 level tsp fast-action yeast 300g raisins 175g chopped almonds 500g strong white our 100g rye our

Butter 2 tsp ne salt Oil and our, for kneading and shaping Sugar, to taste and nish (any sort)

In a big bowl, stir together the sherry, milk, marmalade and yeast, add the raisins and almonds, and mix well. Add the ours and salt, work everything into a rough ball of dough, then cover the bowl and leave for 10 minutes. On a lightly oiled or oured surface, gently knead the dough for a bare 10 seconds, return the dough to the bowl and leave for about two hours, until puy and risen by half. Pat out the dough to about 2cm thick, then roll up tightly into a scroll and place, seam-side down, on a tray covered with nonstick paper. Cover with a cloth and leave for about an hour, until barely risen by half. Heat the oven to 200C (180C fanassisted)/400F/gas mark 6, brush

Pour the sherry and vanilla into a bowl, crack in the eggs, beat until smooth, then stir in the milk and cream. Check it for sweetness, and add a little more sugar, if you prefer. Cut the bread into 1cm-thick slices, cut o the crusts, if you like, then butter the slices lightly. Cut the bread into ngers and lay these overlapping in the base of a large, deep one-litre ovenproof pudding dish. Only half-ll the dish (or even less, if you prefer a good custard base), pour on the egg mixture, press down the bread with a spoon so it softens, then leave to soak for 30 minutes. Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan-assisted)/350F/gas mark 4, dust a little sugar over the top and bake for 30-40 minutes, until the custard is barely set in the middle.

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 57


Restaurants Its cheaper than Cafe Rouge! Marina OLoughlin on the big restaurant with the common touch

essrs Corbin and King, the chaps behind such smashes as The Wolseley and The Delaunay, are not exactly known for their common touch. If youre, say, Christopher Biggins, youll glide straight into their restaurants hallowed inner circles, but if youre hoi polloi, youll be consigned to the chilly, billy no-mates periphery. Ive been told o in the past for caring about this sort of thing I am, apparently, a shallow cow who should pay more attention to my companions than the fact Im facing the lavs but in restaurants such as these, seeing and being seen is kind of the point. So, in the spirit of sheer badness, I turn up at their latest, Brasserie Zdel, a wildly expensive reimagining of the former Regent Palace Hotel Grill Room (latterly Oliver Peytons Atlantic Bar & Grill) without a booking. Wearing Topshop. And with a pair of children. Probably the trades worst table conguration, after a Bacardi Breezerd-up hen party. Well, sucks to me: despite the place heaving, were wafted straight to a booth at the glittering bar its like the one in The Shining and then to a table in the middle of the vast room. Im thrown into confusion: is the middle of the room the new periphery? Total advantage Corbin & King. More confusion: the prices. Theyre having a laugh, surely? How can a ga that breathes the contented sigh


20 Sherwood Street, London W1, 020-7734 4888, Open all week, noonmidnight. About 30 a head. of so much loot look at all that marble! The real gold-leaved architraves! The liveried crockery and peachy linen! feature a menu where one starter is 2.25 and main courses average a tenner? A ne lemon tart short, crisp pastry, dense, lemony custard is three quid. Its as dizzying as the thought that this whole Beaux Arts-style brasserie was taken apart and reassembled like a vast, architectural jigsaw. Otherwise, the food is by and large deantly ordinaire. As it is at the likes of Pariss redoubtable Chartier,

to which the owners acknowledge a debt and several similarities of Allo Allo-ish menu item: carrotes rapes, oeufs durs mayonnaise, choucroute Alsacienne Apart from excellent bread and butter, it all tastes a little, well, cheap. The most expensive starter is a foie gras parfait, but the mousse is granular, as if the buttery foie were cut with a cheaper ingredient such as, maybe, chicken liver; its crystalline cubes of jelly are watery, not solid, sticky sauternes. Pissaladire (3) brings a large square of well-red pastry heavy with caramelised onions and anchovies (the correct, salted jobs). This with a 2.50 salad would make a ne lunch. Cheap steak cuts onglet/hanger, bavette/ank are big news right now, repackaged as the cognoscentis

choice: whack of avour, has to be rare, none of yer girlie llet. Zdels onglet is butch to the point of overpowering, ropey-textured with a sweet, almost horse-meaty quality. Boeuf bourguignon OK, its less than a tenner and comes with decent mash, but oh dear: dry, overstewed meat, a couple of teeny onions and, weirdly, carrots in various stages of cookedness from mushy to near-raw. The dish I like best is a simple cleri rmoulade: spaghetti strands of the root dressed in a luxurious, mustardy mayo, plonked on the plate with no adornment, simple and satisfying. Am I being petty? Its not as if anyone chooses The Wolseley or The Delaunay primarily for the food. Because of Zdels recherch menu, a few pundits have mentioned the dreaded Cafe Rouge in the same breath. I call by the Kingsway branch and get this its more expensive; and an experience Id rather trepan my own head than ever repeat. Is Zdel the ultimate democratic move from two master manipulators, or just a pile em high, sell em cheap exercise dictated by the nancial logistics of the extraordinary setting? Like Bonger and Flo in Paris, it may be destined for colonisation by tourists. As you sweep down the staircase, it has the eect of making you feel like a tourist in your own city. But it also feels like an event, a big night out, even on a wet Monday with two kids in tow. And at under 30 a head, complete with pichets of picpoul, thats quite an achievement.

Quiz 1 Russia. 2 Thomas Hardy. 3 Oxalic acid. 4 Perus Shining Path. 5 Volta (in Ghana). 6 Atlanta, 1996. 7 Eyesight. 8 Henry I (William Adelin). 9 Scooby Doo characters: Daphne; Velma; Fred; Shaggy. 10 Winds. 11 Last four Rugby World Cup-winning coaches. 12 Salome: her mother; wrote play; wrote opera. 13 Obsolete letters in Old English. 14 Portland: Isle of P; P vase; P city, largest in state. 15 Teddy bears: in Brideshead Revisited; mascot of Children in Need; Grayson Perrys. Scrabble See board right. Answer: DEFUNCT. Crossword See board far right.



The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 59


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This column will change your life Has Pelmanisms time come at last, wonders Oliver Burkeman
In December 1917, an advertisement appeared in Nashs Pall Mall Magazine, posing a question that, nearly a century on, makes no sense: Do you Pelmanize? It wouldnt have baed the magazines readers, though: by 1917, thanks to hundreds of similar ads, the mind-training system of Pelmanism was big business in Britain; the Pelman Institute boasted addresses in India, Australia and the US. Suering from brain fag, indeniteness or want of energy? Pelmanism, delivered by correspondence course, promised to help. Its origins were murky, but the man behind the ads, William Ennever, knew how to build a brand. He was soon claiming endorsements from Robert Baden-Powell, Herbert Asquith and Baroness Orczy. If it were within my power, wrote one George Henry in 1718, I would so order it that every... discharged soldier [receive] a free enrollment for a course of Pelmanism. Intrigued? This columns old friend, get-richquick merchant Dr Joe Vitale, will sell you these 12 long-lost astonishing books for just $19! Which sounds tempting, until you realise theyre free via Appropriately for a system backed by Baden-Powell, the voice of the Pelman pamphlets is that of a lieutenant-general, fond of cold showers and the colonial pronunciation of the word Kenya. Theres some marvellously British advice, such as Dont poke into your subconscious and Dont monkey with hypnotism, yet whats most striking is how much of it pregures more recent research. Theres little of the positive thinking ourishing at the time in America. Instead, Pelmanism involves memory games and attention-training techniques. Some resemble what present-day practitioners call mindfulness; others embody the currently popular idea

What Im really thinking

On a Sunday I stand up in front of a crowd of people with varying backgrounds and try to help them make sense of their lives. But I struggle often to make sense of my own. I nd myself looking out at the sea of faces who anticipate that I will oer them security through faith and give meaning to their existence. I smile brightly, participate in the handshaking and look forward to the moment when I can return to my empty vicarage, smoke a cigarette and drink a cup of coee alone. I am supposed to be an expert at dealing with loss. On the surface, I am a condent, bright, middleaged woman who appears to be coping well with my own divorce. Instead, I often feel as broken as you by lifes unplanned course. You want me to be a person of strength, security and hope, someone who will assure you that God has a plan for you, because that is what you expect from a priest. But I can only stand with you in your seeking, and hope that sometimes you will also stand with me. If I were a man, would you bring me casseroles and cakes, and wonder who is looking after me as I deal with this loss? Do I seem stronger to you because I am both priest and woman? When I look out at you all on a Sunday, I hope that someone may invite me home for lunch. And more than this I hope that you will see that I am someone who loves and loses in their life, too, trusting that, in the bigger picture, all will be well in the end. Tell us what youre really thinking at


of willpower as a trainable muscle. Take up a position inside the house or outside, the student is advised, and write down all the sense-data you notice: sights, sounds, smells. There are stretching routines, combined with breath awareness suddenly, the lieutenant-general has become a yoga teacher. There are useful lifeauditing questions, which Pelmanism calls a self-drill: How long is it since you did something really kind and generous? Have you discovered what, for yourself, is the best hour for calm reection? Underlying it all is a focus on eort. No sane person expects to develop muscle by reading a book; he knows he must practise... Similarly, the Pelmanist knows he must practise mental exercise. There isnt one secret to mental eectiveness, the pamphlets say. There are many and youll need to work at them. Which is, I suspect, why Pelmanism

is forgotten now. (You may recall a card game of the same name, based vaguely on its ideas.) We crave not only quick xes but unitary ones: the one thing that will change everything. Yet, as a contributor to the online magazine Elephant Journal puts it, on the topic of depression, theres usually more value in a 5% solution: 20 smaller things, done little and often. Pelmanism lacked a One Thing; it relied instead on relentless advertising, which couldnt be sustained forever. By 1940, Ennever was bankrupt and touting a dodgysounding new organisation called The Personology Institute. He died in 1947, and Pelmanisms slide into permanent obscurity began. Which is a pity, because last time I checked, brain fag and want of energy havent gone anywhere. Perhaps we need to start Pelmanizing again?

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 61


62 1 September 2012 | The Guardian Weekend


Blind date Adventure instructor Derek Nicol, 30, meets translation project manager Helen Fream, 28
Derek on Helen Before the date, what were you hoping for? An adventurous supermodel, well-read and funny. First impressions? Pretty and slim. What did you talk about? Places wed been, France, canoes and kayaks, the essence of self, what had led us to being here, how wed be smashed by the end of the night (I was). Any awkward moments? Helen insisted on opening the bubbly, which made me feel slightly emasculated. Good table manners? Exquisite. Best thing about her? Helen was genuine, kind and seless. She also had a go at the quick crossword, which Id saved for her. Would you introduce her to your friends? Happily, but she might struggle to make sense of their grunts. Could she meet the parents? I think theyd think Helen was a bit of a catch and Id been shooting above my station, so no. Did you go on somewhere? A romantic walk via South Quay to the tube. And did you kiss? One polite peck when we met, two full-blown kisses when we were saying goodbye. If you could change one thing about the evening, what would it be? I should have risked pinching her bottom and having a snog. Marks out of 10? 10+. Would you meet again? Denitely. Helen on Derek Before the date, what were you hoping for? For it not to be a long, awkward evening, trying to escape. First impressions? Flustered but friendly. What did you talk about? Cycling, canoeing, our jobs, ridiculous job titles, adventures, the food. Any awkward moments? When I confused Chester with Cheddar. Good table manners? Yes, despite the shellsh and hanging kebab. Best thing about him? His enthusiasm for the evening. Oh, and he brought along a copy of the Guardian as a prop! Would you introduce him to your friends? Maybe. Could he meet the parents? Youd have to be pretty special and willing to travel to France. Did you go on somewhere? Just to the tube. And... did you kiss? A quick peck on the cheek. If you could change one thing about the evening, what would it be? Nothing! Great food, wine (a bit too much) and conversation. Marks out of 10? For a blind date, 8. Would you meet again? Maybe, if we bump into each other on our bikes. Derek and Helen ate at A Grelha at the Gun, London E14, Fancy a blind date? Email


The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 63


Londons design festival is a chance to snap up homeware from hot new names -A stack of aluminium tealights, 165, Design Junction (details below left) or Merino wool Quaternio blanket, 202, Tent London (20-23 September, Old Truman Brewery, London E1, tentlondon. or

Pick and click

Prints by illustrator Mark McGinnis, 150 framed, are available at SCP from 14 September ( Arteks Second Cycle vintage stools, 170, are at Design Junction (21-23 New Oxford Street, London WC1, from 19-23 September or twentytwentyone. com. Liberty is launching a range of linens, including this print (shown as a seat cushion), 65 a metre (
64 1 September 2012 | The Guardian Weekend

Lee Brooms crystal cr bulb light might be t mig designs Next B Thing Big 90 from his pop-up shop (93 Rivington Riving Street, London EC2) or .

and you dont even have to be in

Melody Rose upcycles vintage china side plate, 28, Tent London (as before) or Check out the legs on this side table, 120, DesignK ( or Tent London. Birds and mustard two sizzling trends in one: pigeon cushion, 49, sjguest. com or Tent London. Lifestyle Bazaar ( is launching Patricia Urquiolas striking Comeback chair, from 279.

the capital to buy them. By Trish Lorenz

A sideboard never looked so colourful: Boulder unit, 675, Tent London (as before) or coucoumanou. com. Melin Tregwynt and Heals ( have created a range of wool pieces, including this Mistral armchair (pictured in Luna fabric), 1,935. The London Design Festival runs from 14-23 September (
The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 65


Standing ovation
The show is supported by seasonal plants such as fawn-coloured grasses, waving their feathery plumes in the wind, linking one season to another. Miscanthus sinensis Malepartus is 2m tall and upright, its purple brown owers shimmering above a body of leaves. As the season progresses, the whole thing switches into shades of orange, yellow and brown; hedges of Aster lateriorus var horizontalis surround it, dripping from head to toe with small, soft pink owers. Miscanthus nepalensis is more tender but worth the trouble as its owers glisten with gold and contrast with the chalky white umbels of Ammi visnaga. Yellow-leaved Catalpa bignonioides Aurea, dark plum Cercis canadensis Forest Pansy and metallic grey Leptospermum lanigerum add to the pleasing mosaic. s summer begins to lapse into autumn, the elds around Great Dixter turn biscuit brown and the leaves on trees and hedges grow tired. The trick is to realise the gardening season is not over by August but continues and can do so all guns blazing. Every year we plan a kaleidoscope of rich tones to bring the garden to a late crescendo. 1m tall. Early into action by July, its awash with discs of orange owers streaked in yellow until November. Other exceptional performers are Aster x frikartii Mnch (80cm) and A. thomsonii (120cm), producing pale mauve daisies with yellow eyes nonstop from late July to October. The perennial yellow daisies helianthus and rudbeckias brighten the garden from summer on. Augustto September-owering H. Lemon Queen has pale lemon owers on a bushy body over 2m tall and is good at the back of the border. R. fulgida var deamii (1m) packs a punch with long-petalled, blackeyed rich yellow owers; R. fulgida var sullivantii Goldsturm is shorter and a solid block of yellow pierced with black throughout. White Japanese anemones make good companions to all of these. Erigeron annuus (white eabane) is a recent discovery for me. With masses of small white daisies from July to October on sti 1.5m stems, it is a good weaver. I use it with the dark blue Salvia guaranitica Blue Enigma and the slender, velvety, red spikes of S. confertiora.

No garden does late-summer colour better than Great Dixter. Head gardener Fergus

The real riches of this season lie in half-hardy annuals and tender perennials. Dahlias are the most vibrant, bold and showy in rich reds, oranges and pinks. D. Bishop of Llanda , 1.5m tall, is vibrant red on almost black leaves. It looks striking with rich, deep blue Salvia Indigo Spires, whose 60cm ower spikes spray out from a 1.5m-tall plant. Both sit next to Rosa Florence Mary Morse, rich red and hardly out of ower from late spring until autumn. For me D. Wittemans Superba is the most striking of all, its small,

Late summer perennials keep the party going. Many heleniums ower from July to September, but some, such as Riverton Beauty, stay the course until late October. Elegantly tall at 2m, it has lightly curved lemon petals around beautiful soft brown eyes. H. Sahins Early Flowerer is shorter, robust and free owering, at

66 1 September 2012 | The Guardian Weekend

Garrett picks out his favourite plants to blaze a trail to autumn

vibrant red, semi-cactus owers held rigidly above green leaves at 1.2m. Equally luxuriant is Grenadier, its bright red owers set o by handsome dark leaves. It looks wonderful sandwiched between the breathtakingly showy Aster Little Carlow (1.2m and rich mauve) in front, the biennial Rudbeckia triloba (2m and rich yellow) behind and the glossy yellow catalpa to one side. R. triloba owers from August to October and is usefully tall, making it handy to weave through borders. Persicaria orientalis or Kiss me over the garden gate is taller at 2.5m and used for the same purpose. With gracefully dangling inorescences of rich pink, it owers from July until the rst frost and towers over other plants, softening the picture without blocking your view. Seed is best sown fresh into pots in autumn, then left outside for winter cold to break its dormancy; germination takes place in spring, ready for planting out in May.

Plant of the week

What is it? The round-headed leek (Allium sphaerocephalon) isnt a leek for the veg patch but a useful ornamental member of the allium family. Handy, because it owers a bit later than most of its relatives mid-July or so, into August and its compact, drumstick-shaped owers in bright green tipped with blackcurrant look great swaying in the breeze. Plant it with? The stems reach up to 80cm, so theres a danger theyll op: plant through grasses such as pennisetum or Stipa tenuissima to help hold them in place. The round heads also look good against the semi-dried seedheads of earlier-owering alliums, such as A. christophii or Purple Sensation. And where? Full sun. In early autumn, plant the bulbs 7cm deep and 8-10cm apart in fertile, welldrained soil: winter bogginess will reduce your chances of success. Any drawbacks? If you plant them in a hectic border full of taller perennials, they could get lost: arrange in swaths through borders, grouping bulbs in odd numbers for the best visual impact. What else does it do? Although its primarily ornamental, you can eat the stems of this allium as you would chives just be aware that this could set back the owers a bit. Buy it Order 25 bulbs for 7.99, or 50 for 15.98 and get 25 bulbs free. All orders include free UK mainland p&p. Call 0330 333 6856, quoting ref GUA691, or shop online at guardian. Delivery from September. Jane Perrone

Many marigolds have been dwarfed by modern breeding, losing a good deal of their branching habit and elegance. Tagetes patula, the wild French marigold, makes bushy plants over 1m tall, with delicate orange owers. Stake with one slender cane per plant and it will repay you with four months of simple owers. Aprilsown seedlings are useful popped in slivers of space among other plants. From a May planting, owering runs from July to October. T. patula Cinnabar is similar in height and stature but comes with striking deep copper owers. Plant in blocks backed by something bold and handsome such as Canna General Eisenhower, the best bronze-leaved canna, with voluptuous red owers.

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 67


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Alys Fowler Harvest festival

cannot decide whether Ive become lazy or undergone a philosophical shift in my gardening. Either way, nothing impresses me more than a plant that does its thing while I do mine. Increasingly, Ive turned to hard-working shrubs to oer me food. They bring important habitat to my garden and, other than a mulch and snip here and there, I do little other than harvest. My rst choice is the owering quince, chaenomeles species. Its spring owers oer cheer when little else is out, it has nice, glossy, green leaves, and in autumn it produces fruit aplenty. Apple-shaped quinces in green, yellow or pink are perfect for membrillo, apple pie or quince lemonade. Pick from late September until November. They will grow to 3m, but can be pruned to grow against a wall. There are numerous species and cultivars. Crg Farm Plants ( oers Chaenomeles cathayensis, which has salmon pink-ushed owers and the largest fruit of the genus. Soft fruit such as currants or gooseberries are all ideal edible shrubs for smaller spaces. If space is truly limited, spend a little more time (or money you can buy pretrained bushes) and train the fruit into a standard or half-standard bush. The single stem allows you to plant more below, and the

fruit is high, making it easy to pick. But if you have room for only one shrub, Id go with blueberries. Bang for buck, growing your own saves the most money, particularly if you plant small and are patient for returns. If rhododendrons, azaleas or bilberries thrive in your bit of the world, blueberries will, too. Otherwise, grow in pots; and either way, mulch annually with acid-rich organic matter such as rotted pine needles from your Christmas tree. The fruit is best on wood that is two to three years old after planting. Bear in mind that a mature blueberry will grow to 1.5m high and wide. Both the Toro and Chandler varieties got best buys from Gardening Which? this year. Nothing has given me more pleasure than my cultivated blackberries this year. I grow the thornless Helen (early) and Loch Ness (late season), both of which ramble through other climbers for support, but trellis or any arbour would work equally well. Those cup-shaped owers are delightful and followed by huge berries (2-3cm long), perfectly sweet and tart in avour. Cultivated blackberries are unfussy, happy in sun or shade (the fruit is sweeter in sun), as long as they can scramble somewhere. They are even happy on a north-east wall, and there are few edible crops you can say that about.

I am desperate for advice about red spider mites, which are ravaging all my indoor ivy plants. Is it kinder to give up trying to grow them, or is there something I can do? Red spider mites are tiny, up to 1mm long, varying from dark green to orange to carmine red, with two distinct black spots. The leaves of an infected plant have tiny yellow spots that merge into large yellow patches, with a ne webbing of silken threads underneath that transports the un mites around the plant. They love warm, dry conditions. w One trick is to increase humidity around the plant spray the undersides of leaves with water, and give them a good shower to dislodge the webbing. But once you have an infestation, you need another plan of attack. Introduce a harmless (to you, at least) predatory mite, Phytoseiulus persimilis, which will eat them. Group your plants together, spray the underside of the leaves with water (the predators like humid conditions) and wait. Theyll quickly get to work. Order from Green Gardener ( uk), which sells smaller packs for only a few plants. Got a question for Alys? Email

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 69



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Due to being a personal hygiene product, this product may not be returned unless faulty or unopened. Not suitable for those suffering from diabetes, eczema or other skin complaints.

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Order HAIRAWAY within the next 7 days and well send you a top quality MANICURE and MAKE-UP BRUSH SET


Rotating action removes the complete hair shaft from hair follicle leaving skin smooth Razors cut hair off at skin surface leaving remainder of hair in follicle to grow back quickly and leaves skin rough and stubby!

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Post coupon to: Winning Deals Ltd, (2935HA12), Emery House, Romsey Industrial Estate, Greatbridge Road, Romsey, Hampshire SO51 0AD.


To: Winning Deals Ltd, (2935HA12), Emery House, Romsey Industrial Estate, Greatbridge Road, Romsey, Hampshire SO51 0AD. Please send me:


ORDER TODAY! Phone, Post or Order Online!

Co. Reg. Address 8 Exchange Quay, Manchester M5 3EJ

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or charge my MasterCard/Visa/Maestro/Delta Account. My Card No. is Security Code (last 3 digits on back of card) Name Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms Address Post Code Tel. No. Email
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70 1 September 2012 | The Guardian Weekend

Winning Deals Ltd. Co. Reg. No. 6216792

PRICE QTY 19.95 Please add 3.95 postage and packing to entire order I am ordering within 7 days and claim my GRAND TOTAL FREE Manicure and Make-up Brush Set I enclose Cheque/P (made payable to Winning Deals Ltd, .O. please write your name and address on reverse) for



Lets move to Cirencester, Gloucestershire -terribly scrubbed up but jolly nice

Whats going for it? I know, I know, we were in Gloucestershire only last week. So sue me. What can I say, I was in the area. And Cirencester is nice. Jolly nice. One of the most formative experiences of Lets Move Tos childhood was watching Alec Clifton-Taylor fondling ashlar and Flemish bond in the TV series Six English Towns, Six More English Towns, plus (of course) Another Six English Towns. Yes, reader, I was a nerd. While others watched The Sweeney, I had eyes only for Alec, and Alec had eyes only for the tithe barns, guildhalls and vermiculated rustication (look it up) of places such as Cirencester. So I felt Id been here before. Its creamy Cotswold stone streets, medieval wool merchants houses and crumbling abbey ruins were utterly familiar. This place is so elegant, even the lido is fed by spring water. Its smartened itself up since, course, joined the Cotswold poloriding set. Its got delis. With a Nu Green nod to climate change, its half-powered by electricity generated by chicken poo. But you can still meet trainee shepherds (from its Royal Agricultural College) down the supermarket. St Alec would recognise its ancient streets if he haunted the place a century from now. The case against Not cheap, but then this is the cusp of the Cotswolds. Its all terribly scrubbed up, every spot restored to within an inch of its life. Well connected? This was the Spaghetti Junction of the Roman world, with Ermin Way and Fosse Way converging. Bit o the beaten track today: an hours drive to Bristol and Oxford, 30 mins to Swindon, 25 to the M5. Kemble railway station is four miles away: hourly to Swindon (14 mins), London (80 mins), Stroud (15 mins) and Gloucester (40 mins). Schools Primaries: Powells CofE and Watermoor CofE good, Ofsted says; Stratton CofE and secondaries Deer

Snooping around
Kingsnorth, near Ashford, Kent. 295,000, Chesterton Humberts, Because The garden backs on to farmland, yet cosmopolitan chic approaches, with Eurostar nearby. It has beams, an inglenook, two double bedrooms and a garage. Its a shame that The village straggles along a busy main road.

Royal Herbert Pavilions, London SE18. 279,000, Roy Brooks, Because Residents of this hospital conversion share tennis courts, gardens, swimming pool, sauna and gym. Theres a 29ft reception room and both bedrooms have bathrooms. Its a shame that The decors dated.


Norah Kennedy A mile outside town is the most wonderful organic farm shop, Abbey Home Farm. Rob Wilson A lovely town with a great sense of history. Bomfords deli is a great place to eat. But the general scruness is appalling. Richard Holmes Good choice of shops, greengrocers (Market Garden), butchers (Hart), pubs (Twelve Bells) plus open space: Abbey Grounds, Amphitheatre, St Michaels Park. Pet hate: Cirencester Park closes at 5pm. Do you live in Harlesden and Old Oak Common, north-west London? Do you have a favourite haunt or a pet hate? Email by next Tuesday.

Park and Kingshill all outstanding. Hang out at Made By Bob, a smashing deli-restaurant in the Corn Hall. Chesterton Farm, just outside, is a marvellous farm shop. Where to buy In the centre, if you can stretch to it, along lanes such as Dollar Street and Black Jack Street, or in the lovely nook of Victorians and oddball detacheds around St Michaels Park. Check out Somerford Road, south, north o Gloucester Road and up the hill to Stratton for modern-ish posh detacheds. Market values Huge detacheds and town houses, 450,000-900,000. Large detacheds, 300,000-450,000. Semis, 160,000-300,000. Terraces and cottages, 150,000-275,000. Bargain of the week Three-bed Georgian town house with courtyard garden, 250,000, with RA Bennett, Tom Dyckho Live in Cirencester? Join the debate at


South Hetton, near Durham, County Durham. 350,000, H&H, What? Three-bed farmhouse, three-bed cottage, brick outbuildings and 12 acres. Condition The house is very basic: coal res and no electricity. The cottage and outbuildings are ruinous. Why you should You could establish a smallholding or equestrian centre. Why you shouldnt The vendors get 50% of the uplift value if you achieve permission for more than two homes on the site. Anna Tims

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 71


On the road Its comfy, roomy, and with a hint of 1992 about it, says Sam Wollaston

m glad Seat has dropped its Auto Emocion slogan. It just sounded to me anyway a bit too much like autoeroticism. Vehicles more suited to the onanist than the motorist. As if that wasnt enough, their little city car was called the Arosa, which sounds too much like Arouser, and thats clearly what they were hinting at. Who was going to nip to the shops in an Arouser? Dogging perhaps, but not Sainsburys. In short, a Seat was the car of choice for the pervert. Not any more, thankfully. The slogans gone, and the Arouser has been replaced by this one. Mii, a bit like a Wii, it sounds more friendly and family appropriate. No ones going to feel ashamed stepping into a Mii. Its basically the same car as the VW Up and the Skoda Citigo, just styled slightly dierently. You chose the one you like the look of best


Price 9,180 Top speed 100mph Acceleration 0-62 in 14.4 seconds Combined consumption 68.9mpg CO2 emissions 96g/km Eco rating 9/10 Cool rating 8/10

(oh, and the Up costs a bit more for the equivalent model, because its a VW). None of them is a specially interesting design, or has the cuteness of a Fiat 500. But I like the Seat its neat, and simple. Inside, too. Most cars today have too many knobs and switches not only on the dashboard, but on the steering wheel, on the inside of the doors, above your head... sometimes its like getting into the bloody space shuttle. The manufacturers think that its what people want. To be fair, it is what a lot of people want. But these people are fools. Theyll soon get bored of all the toys theyve paid extra for and wont use them. This one has all you need to turn lights on and o, open and close windows, heat, cool, make music happen and nothing more. Cheap, yes, but also unpretentious, with a certain utilitarian charm.

It also makes me quite nostalgic, because it feels like stepping into a little car in about 1992. Albeit a much better little car than the ones that were around 20 years ago more comfortable, roomier (surprisingly so, even in the back), safer, quieter, more ecient. To drive? Well, with its 60PS, three cylinder, one-litre engine, it takes a while to gather momentum on the open road. But the open road is not the Miis natural habitat. It belongs in town, and here its perfect nippy, assured, condent, quiet, friendly. Just nice, really. Im trying the Ecomotive model, which costs a bit more but brings CO2 levels down below 100, so you avoid the congestion charge in London, where it would make most sense. Elsewhere, the basic model hardly a planet slayer would be ne. Its a basic car able, ecient, enjoyable. Or, put another way, good clean fun.

72 1 September 2012 | The Guardian Weekend



Crossword, Scrabble and the Quiz Answers on page 59

1 2 3 4 5 6 7


1 Yandex and Rambler are search engines from which country? 2 Who wrote the verse drama The Dynasts? 3 Which acid makes rhubarb leaves poisonous? 4 Abimael Guzmn was the leader of which guerrilla movement? 5 The Prime Meridian passes through which African lake? 6 In which recent summer Olympics did GB win just one gold? 7 A Snellen chart is used to test what? 8 Whose heir drowned in the White Ship disaster? What links: 9 Blake; Dinkley; Jones; Rogers? 10 Vardarac; Shamal; Fremantle Doctor; Chinook? 11 Graham Henry; Jake White; Clive Woodward; Rod Macqueen? 12 Herodias; Oscar Wilde; Richard Strauss? 13 Ash; thorn; eth; wynn; yogh; ethel? 14 Limestone tied island; Roman glassware in British Museum; Oregon? 15 Aloysius; Pudsey; Alan Measles?




13 16 17 18






21 22 23
1 2 1 1 1 1 2 4

24 25

said to have sailed to America in 1170 (5) 6 The ........., test for Londons black cab drivers (9) 7 Ralph Waldo ......., American author (7) 11 Olympic host city, 1992 (9) 13 The ......., southern tip of Manhattan (7) 15 London ......., Iain Sinclairs 2003 tribute to the capital city (7) 16 Olympic host city, 1980 (6) 18 The major river of Pakistan (5) 20 Italian author of The Divine Comedy (5) 23 Constellation lying between Cancer and Virgo (3)


Across 1 John Everett ......., English painter (7) 5 Robert ....., author of the screenwriters bible, Story (5) 8 Thomas ........., Hard Times headmaster (9) 9 Spanish expression used as part of amenco music and to applaud in sport (3) 10 Acronym for UKs civil contingencies committee, named after its meeting room (5) 12 Los ......., Olympic host city, 1984 (7) 13 Olympic host city, 1936 (6) 14 Olympic host city, 1948 (6) 17 Northern Italian city,

home of Benetton (7) 19 Shylock: If you prick us, do we not .....? (5) 21 Umberto ..., Name Of The Rose author (3) 22 Olympic discipline involving 10 events (9) 24 Irish poet (5) 25 Robert ......., generally considered UKs rst PM (7) Down 1 ..... Johnson, member of US basketballs Dream Team that played in 11 down (5) 2 River rising near Luton and entering Thames near Limehouse (3) 3 Currency in Kabul (7) 4 Iranian city with grape named after it (6) 5 Welsh prince who is







With the rack of letters (right), nd a way to score 38 points in one move Triple word Double word

Triple letter

Double letter

The Guardian Weekend | 1 September 2012 73



Your pictures This weeks theme: Fade

1 Marc Fairhurst I headed out around 5.30am one foggy morning and ended up by the Thames. This boat seemed to be heading into a blanket of thick fog, while the lines of the bank and most everything else faded away. 2 Dave Spellman A neglected garage door in Whalley in Lancashire has a certain charm. 3 Sharon Scott Fading light through faded lace cutains in a cottage window at the Ulster American Folk Museum, County Tyrone. To see this weeks winners online, together with a selection of other readers entries, go to guardian.

Next topic: Harvest (to appear 15 September). Email a hi-res image (one per entry; all submissions must be your own work), plus a brief description of your photo and a daytime phone number, to by noon on Wednesday 5 September (conditions apply see theguardian/weekend/ in-pictures-terms-andconditions). To suggest a future theme, email

74 1 September 2012 | The Guardian Weekend