PHYTOCREAM

2000

Vegetable based emulsifier

Research & Development Laboratories

Novel System
PEG free Non ionic emulsifiers Soap free anionic emulsifiers

Non ionic emulsifiers + Anionic emulsifiers

PHYTOCREAM
INCI NAME Potassium Palmitoyl Wheat Protein Glyceryl Stearate Cetearyl Alcohol

2000

Hydrolyzed

Fatty acid

Vegetable protein hydrolisates

Functional surfactants

PHYTOCREAM
Characters
Aspect Color Odor pH (c=10) Acid Value: Value: Number: Iodine Number: Point: Melting Point:

2000

waxy beads ivory Slight,Characteristic Slight,Characteristic 6,5 7,5 5 15 10 15 52 60C 52 - 60 C

Features
Natural origin components Particularly suitablephytoemulsions NO ethylen oxide Very easy to formulate Very easily handable It allows formulations rich in vegetable oils (from 5% to 30% as lipids)

How to formulate
Melt the oily phase at 60C Heat the water phase at 60C Add water phase at oily phase under homogenesation

PHYTOCREAM

2000

Applications
Consistent and fluid emulsions (O/W) for face, body, hands, legs and feet

Systematic trials
Different concentrations Different oils Different rheological additives

Systematic trials
Concentrations: 2,5% 5% 7,5% Oils: Olive unsaponifiables Avocado Jojoba

Additives:
Carbopol 0.25% Sepigel 1%

Basic O/W Emulsion

FORMULATION Phytocream 2000 Lipids Antioxidant Preserved water Glycerin Red Alga Gel Essential Oils % 2,5-5-10% 5-10-15 0.05% 70% 2.5% 2% 0.45%

Stability trials
Parameters: Aspect Color Odor pH Viscosity Conditions: Room Temperature + 40C + 4C Thermic Shock

Results - Oils
Olive unsaponifiables (apolar lipid) gives lower viscosity Jojoba oils gives intermediate viscosity Avocado oils gives higher viscosity General improvement of its performances in the presence of vegetal lipids

Results - additives

Carbopol gives higher viscosity Sepigel gives lower viscosity

Results - concentrations
Polarity of oils helps to reach objective Best performances could be reached with high concentrations but depending on emulsions (fluid , semi- fluid, consistent)

Viscosity
25000

20000

Phytosqualan Unsaponifiable 15000 Jojoba Oil Avocado Oil Sweet Almond Oil Cocoa Butter Shea Butter 10000 Coconut Oil Borage Oil Kukui Oil

5000

Ph yt os qu al an U ns ap on ifi ab le

O il

Jo jo ba

Av oc ad o

ee tA lm

S he a

oc oa

Sw

B or ag e

oc on ut

Ku ku iO il

il

B ut te r

il

te r

il

on d

B ut

il

Viscosity

All the emulsions that have been tested, in this series, contain an amount of natural lipids. All these emulsions have an isodermic pH value, viscosity between 11.000 and 22.000 cPs.

Consistency agents
Components
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax Cetearyl Alcohol , Cetearyl Glucoside Glyceryl Stearate Dimethicare Copolyol Eicosanate Polyglyceryl Methyl Glucose Distearate

(%)
2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5

Results consistency agents

In the formulations containing additional hydrophilic emulsifiers, viscosity is generally lower compared with Phytocream 2000 alone, except for the first series, where the emulsifier contains some amount of cetearyl alcohol, responsible for viscosity enhancer.

PHYTOCREAM 2000 Safety profile

Acute oral toxicity Skin Irritation Eye Irritation Skin Sensitization Dermal irritation In vitro TEST Ocular irritation In vitro TEST

Conclusions
Phytocream 2000 builds up a liquid crystal network as many emulsifiers of the new generation. It represent an emulsifying system with its peculiarity as lipoproteic nature, which performs a high compatibility on human skin and high sensorial properties

PHYTOCREAM 2000

FORMULATIONS

Formulation: Moisturising Emulsion

INGREDIENTS
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

%
qs 100 10,00 5,00 2,50 2,50 3,00 0,50 0,05 q.s 2,00 2,50 0,30

Aqua
PHYTOCREAM 2000

Ethylhexyl Ethylhexanoate Olea europea Persea gratissima Coco-caprylate/Caprate

SF 18-350

Antioxidants
Preservatives TREALIX

Glycerin Parfum

Formulation: Anti wrinkle Emulsion

INGREDIENTS
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

%
qs 100 5,00 3,00 10,00 10,00 10,00 2,00 0,05 q.s. 3,00 0,30

Aqua
PHYTOCREAM 2000

ELASTOCELL Prunus amygadalus Hamamelis virginiana

RED ALGA GEL AZELOGLICINA

Antioxidants
Preservatives TREALIX

Parfum

Formulation: Dark spots Emulsion

INGREDIENTS
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

%
qs 100 10,00 3,00 12,00 5,00 2,50 5,00 2,00 q.s. 2,50 0,30

Aqua
PHYTOCREAM 2000 TIOLISINA COMPLEX 30

Squalane Ethylhexyl ethyhexanoate

AVENOLAT AZELOGLICINA

Cocoglycerides
Preservatives MANDORLAT

Parfum

Thank you for your kind attention