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Springfield-Greene County Library -- Bittersweet

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Volume I, No. 3, Spring 1974

SORGHUM MOLASSES
BITTERSWEET STYLE
by Janet Florence and Ronnie Hough A hundred years ago if you did not have a few jugs of molasses you were in for a sweetless winter. Sorghum molasses brought the main sweet, sugary taste to cooking. When the crop did not turn out, the Ozark people were in for bitter gooseberry pie or had to be content with just butter on biscuits and cornbread. Sugar was an expensive and difficult to get luxury, and finding a bee tree too unreliable. Farmers could be more self-sufficient with something they grew and made themselves, like the nearly always dependable sorghum cane crop. However, not everyone that endeavored to make molasses was satisfied. The molasses might be green from not enough cooking, or it might be cooked too fast. It could be murky from dirty stalks or from improperly strained juice, or black from being scorched. It might be bitter from the cane being frosted on or from improper handling of the harvesting. Or a poor growing season could produce an inferior crop. So it was very important to know what to do while growing, harvesting and cooking the sorghum cane. The making of good molasses was a skill not every one had. Those who made it well were sought after. Very few people had their own mills even years ago, usually one in a neighborhood. As sugar became more available, the number of mills became more scarce as time went on until now very few in the Ozarks are in production.

The decline in molasses use was partly because sugar became readily available and cheap. Sugar allowed women to make finer cakes, jellies and other foods. But on Ozark tables sugar did not completely take the place of molasses which continued to be in demand as long as it was available. The

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10/12/2012

[19] Power to operate the mills was furnished by either mules or horses in the early days. Sometimes the owner of the mill would move it to the cane patch to custom make the molasses right on the farm. and those who are willing cannot get the labor to help them. a small patch which would produce ten to twelve gallons. For molasses making requires a fairly big crew. but all that needed be done was to get the jug out of the cellar and put it on the back of the wood stove to heat up. When tractors came into general use. getting to suck on the cane stalks and eating all the good things that could be cooked from molasses. These would keep the molasses well through the winter months. The molasses would pour as well as before. They could raise their own cane. If they had the money.Springfield-Greene County Library -. they could buy their year's supply in the fall from mill owners or the general stores that always carried it. The finished product of molasses was often stored in stone crock jugs. under the watchful eyes of Elva and Myrtle Hough. however. Missouri. cookies and cakes. it was cheaper and just as efficient for many to use their horsepower as before. Photo courtesy of his granddaughter. The difference in sources of power. or for pay. Janelle Smith. Men usually planted enough for just their family. they could obtain it in several ways even if they did not have a mill themselves. Even after gas engines or tractors were common. Near Bennett Springs.Bittersweet Page 2 of 13 staff of BITTERSWEET.org/lochist/periodicals/bittersweet/sp74f. pulleys could be attached to engines to turn the belt. From our experience and talking with people who used to make molasses. we believe the main reason for its scarcity today is the tremendous amount of hand labor involved. The size of the patches of cane would depend on how much molasses was needed. The animals were harnessed to a pole that turned the mill to extract the juice from cane. molasses was used in gingerbread. to sweeten pumpkin http://thelibrary. By spring the liquid might turn to sugar. did not change the taste of molasses. For the parents it meant lots of labor before the job was over. [20] Besides being a table spread. Back when people depended on molasses. raised a cane crop and went through all the processes of making molasses. Harvest time in late September and early October was indeed a time of mouth watering. Most people are not willing to work as hard as is required to make molasses. strip and top it and haul it to the mill. four generations of Smiths in 1905 made molasses--a family tradition carried on by Charley Smith (right) until a few years ago.htm 10/12/2012 . The mill operator would custom grind the juice and make the molasses for a share of the product. enough for one year. cut. giving the same results.

Thinning is done with a broad hoe.htm 10/12/2012 . Sometimes it is necessary to pull out by hand the excess plants around the one to be left. Now the planting and plowing are done with power machinery. Even with careful hand planting or with drills stopped down as much as possible. (see diagram # 1) When cane reaches knee height it must be thinned by hand. to make popcorn balls and taffy and in many other foods. Now days you rarely. even in the Ozarks. but even today with all the machines man has.Bittersweet Page 3 of 13 pie and spicewood tea. are able to buy homemade molasses for any amount of money. lay off the rows and cultivate (plow). Just put a gullup in to flavor. Only with the hard work of families and neighbors gathering to help one another was the joy of having sorghum molasses for the winter made possible. more seed is planted than needed.org/lochist/periodicals/bittersweet/sp74f." This humorous term for a measurement is somewhat hard to explain because it is a word to describe the sound that the thick molasses makes when being poured out of a jug. PLANTING Work for making molasses begins in May when the BB-sized sorghum molasses cane seeds are drilled into rows to begin the process. Therefore. "Them molasses make baked foods taste better. As some older Ozarkians would say.) When molasses mills were common. In the early days man used a horse to break the ground. (See page 12) for recipes using molasses. THINNING Cane seed is too small to be planted spaced apart like corn. the rows of young plants must be thinned when they reach knee height to one plant every six to eight inches. http://thelibrary. Cultivation of the ground begins a few weeks later to remove weeds growing between the rows and to loosen up the ground around the plants. he must do almost all the rest of the work himself as the hard work of making molasses begins. Robert Mckenzie uses a broad hoe.Springfield-Greene County Library -. you could buy molasses for seventy-five cents to a dollar a gallon. What comes out between the two sounds was a gullup.

Thinning gives the remaining plants room to grow tall and develop thick stalks. HARVESTING You can tell when the cane plants reach maturity in late September or early October by looking at the seed tassels which change in color from green to medium brown. http://thelibrary. a sharp hand sickle or butcher knife.Springfield-Greene County Library -. plants can be stripped and left in the field until ready for cutting. By this time the leaves are dry and break off easily. If there is danger of frost. If improperly thinned. Some molasses makers especially skilled in stripping can give the heads one blow and knock off all the leaves. Leaves are sometimes stripped by hand after the cane is cut and hauled to the mill. causing four or five new weak plants to grow where one was cut off.(see diagram # 2) Topping the plants is next. (see diagram # 3) The heads that are cut off and left in the field make excellent feed for wildlife or for stock that may later be turned in to the field.Bittersweet Page 4 of 13 Diagram #1 [21] It is important to dig or pull up the plants by the roots so they will not sucker out. Debris from the leaves if run through the mill would make the molasses bitter. the resulting cane will be a thick row of underdeveloped stalks. Either way is tedious work. Harvesting begins with stripping..org/lochist/periodicals/bittersweet/sp74f.htm 10/12/2012 . Cutting off the heads is done with either a corn knife. If the cane is cut in the field before topping. To strip you can use two sticks about thirty inches long. Small stalks cut down on the juice production besides making the harvesting much harder. The seed tassels must be cut off to keep the seeds out of the juice. The leaves need to be stripped before the first big frost to prevent damaging the juice in the stalk. bringing them down on each side of the stalk to knock the leaves off. the heads can be cut off several at a time and saved for seed or feeding. or removing the leaves.

you should get as much of the stalk as possible. [22] The last step in harvesting is cutting the cane stalk itself to be hauled to the mill. without hurting its quality. The stalks should be cut as close to the ground as possible without getting into the dirt. Since the larger lower end of the stalk contains much of the juice. This is important since dirt on the Stalk will get into the juice. the stalks can be stored for up to two weeks before extracting the juice. After cutting.Springfield-Greene County Library -.Bittersweet Page 5 of 13 Diagram #2 Diagram #3 A quick slice with a sharp knife removes the heads. http://thelibrary.htm 10/12/2012 .org/lochist/periodicals/bittersweet/sp74f.

the last step before hauling to the mill. horses were used to turn the rollers in the mill. If not well trained.org/lochist/periodicals/bittersweet/sp74f. The animal was usually trained to start and stop on verbal commands. someone had to lead it around to keep it from tearing up the mill or possibly hurting someone. keeping a slow. A horse or mule harnessed to a pole walked in circles.Bittersweet Page 6 of 13 Cut the stalks close to the ground. EXTRACTING THE JUICE The mill is the first place where you get a look at what will soon be molasses.Springfield-Greene County Library -. stripping and loading. steady walk around and around. (see diagram # 4) http://thelibrary. Before tractors. The pole was attached to gears which turned the rollers of the mill.htm 10/12/2012 . Before engines came into use a horse harnessed to a pole was used to turn the rollers in the mill. Much hand labor is involved in harvesting cane. topping. Cutting. [23] Diagram # 4.

where a verbal "whoa. The juice flows off the rollers into a metal trough leading to the collection bucket or barrel. Over the bucket are several thicknesses of cheesecloth to filter out any pieces of stalk or seeds that may have dropped down with the juice.org/lochist/periodicals/bittersweet/sp74f. Diagram #5 http://thelibrary. (see diagram # 5) Caution must be used while feeding cane into the mills since it cannot be stopped in time. squeezing out the juice very much like a wringer on a washing machine. which turns the rollers. The stalks flattened by the three rollers go on through the mill and come out on the other side as plummies. [24] The cane stalks are inserted into one side of the mill.Springfield-Greene County Library -.htm 10/12/2012 . These plummies can then be used as feed or compost. This method is more dangerous since it would be impossible to reach the motor in time to stop the rollers if someone caught a hand or arm in the mill.Bittersweet Page 7 of 13 This method of power was used entirely in the Ozarks until recent years when tractors replaced most of the draft animals." would stop the horse. The rollers crush the stalks. Rollers squeeze the juice out of the cane as it is fed into the mill. The tractor power take-off throttled down to a slow rpm is hooked up by belt to a wheel.

and as long and wide as the vat. The cooking would begin as soon as there was enough juice extracted for one section. you need to do considerable preparation getting the vat ready for this next operation. Cooking the juice begins by filling the pan with water to protect it until the fire reaches a temperature hot enough to keep it boiling. The juice can be stored a few days before boiling.Springfield-Greene County Library -. but usually molasses making for a family was a one or two day job. A flue is built at one end. set the vat on the foundation. The foundation should be built with the end section where the molasses comes out a few inches lower than the first section. The pans or vats are made of copper or steel and usually are divided into five sections with holes or other opening for the juice to be transferred from section to section during the cooking process. Permanently built foundations have doors and regular stove drafts built in. The fire can now be laid. you are ready to remove the water from the first section and pour in the first batch of juice. When the foundation is laid and the wood in ready for the fire. or a comfortable working height. with the mill running and molasses cooking in several stages all at once.htm 10/12/2012 . A foundation of rocks is built about three feet high. This means cooking just one batch at a time until done.org/lochist/periodicals/bittersweet/sp74f. Even before beginning the hours of cooking in the big open vat. [25] COOKING The raw greenish looking juice is still a long way from finished molasses. When the water comes to a boil. stop up any cracks or holes the heat might escape from and you are ready for the cooking process. it is moved down the pan with fresh juice continually being added in the first section. http://thelibrary. Concrete blocks or bricks can be substituted for rock. Most Ozark sorghum molasses makers used wood for fuel because of its availability. but a temporary structure can be devised with asbestos or other non-flamable material to control the air intake on the open end.Bittersweet Page 8 of 13 After going through the mill the cane juice is filtered through cheesecloth before being taken to the pan for boiling. Some vats are not divided at all. It should be evenly laid the entire length of the vat. During the entire cooking process the fire must be tended and controlled to keep an even and hot heat. (see diagram # 6) In some vats the sections are further divided off into three more segments. (see diagram # 7) The divisions are so that the cooking of the molasses can be a continual process. As the molasses cooks. The other end has an opening to add wood to the fire and for a draft.

When cooking the juice. stop up the hole with the rag to keep the juice from returning. in the five sections you can see the color change from a sickening opaque green to a rich medium golden brown just slightly darker than honey.Springfield-Greene County Library -. The pusher makes a good tool to stir. Lay the pusher on the cloth. reaching a desired stage before being moved on. Section by section the batches are moved slowly down the pan each being cooked more and more until reaching the last section. The holes are stopped with clean rags. Finished molasses comes out of the last section and raw juice is added to the first all day long and sometimes into the night and next day until all the juice is cooked. it is moved to the next section. Slowly push the juice up the section toward the hole. The juice in each of the sections boils. keep it stirred and remove the skimmings. You can even see a difference in the way the liquid boils in the five different sections. To move the juice from one section to another use a long-handled wooden pusher built just the width of one section of the vat.org/lochist/periodicals/bittersweet/sp74f. or impurities. The consistency changes from thin watery juice to thick syrupy molasses. Remove the rags to allow the juice to flow into the next section. In a like manner the juice in each section is moved forward. There before you. boil to the top like scum when making jelly. When all the juice has been transferred and before you remove the pusher.htm 10/12/2012 . changing from a rapid foamy boil to the slow blurp of the thickened molasses. (see diagram # 8) Put a clean doubled cloth under the pusher at the end opposite from the hole.Bittersweet Page 9 of 13 Diagram #6 Diagram # 7 [26] As the first batch of molasses boils well. These must be removed from the first three sections for a http://thelibrary. The first section is replenished with fresh juice. new fresh juice being added to the beginning to keep a continued cooking process. Stirring is especially needed in the last two sections to prevent scorching. The skimmings.

Diagram #8 Myrtle Hough shown removing skimmings from the juice. metal buckets or other containers until it is used. a flat-bottomed scoop-shaped metal strainer with holes in the bottom.Springfield-Greene County Library -. [27] When the molasses in the last section reaches the desired consistency. barrels. crocks. (see diagram # 9) Just skim the bubbling surface of the juice. Remove these with a long-handled skimmer. it is stored in jugs. Collected in clean buckets or stone crocks. The good juice will escape through the holes back to the vat. it is drained out from an opening in the bottom of the pan. is ready to use again. Diagram # 9 Cooking molasses requires constant attention to keep the fire regulated so that it is not too hot nor too http://thelibrary. dunked in a bucket of water after each skimming.Bittersweet Page 10 of 13 clear product. The skimmer. collecting the skimmings.org/lochist/periodicals/bittersweet/sp74f.htm 10/12/2012 .

Elvie unplugs hole to move boiling juice into next section. and it takes constant attention to tend to the cooking so that the molasses does not scorch.Bittersweet Page 11 of 13 low.org/lochist/periodicals/bittersweet/sp74f. There is plenty of action going on when the mill is operating and the juice is being cooked. cook too long or not long enough. It takes experience to know when to move the batches and it takes experience to move all the sections quickly before the pan gets too hot. Elva Hough using a pusher to stir the juice while cooking.htm 10/12/2012 . Finished molasses drains out of the last section. Almost blinded by steam.Springfield-Greene County Library -. It takes endurance to tolerate the wood smoke and pungent steam rising from the vat into the crisp autumn air. [28] http://thelibrary.

htm 10/12/2012 . note: We'd like to give special thanks to Charles D. the never ending job of stripping. Co-author of this article (and their grandson). [Ed. Nothing the staff has done has more vividly taught the real meaning of our name BITTERSWEET. Photos by staff.Bittersweet Page 12 of 13 We of BITTERSWEET did not realize what we were getting into last spring when we asked Myrtle and Elva Hough if they knew of anyone who still made molasses. Hough for giving us a chance to make molasses first hand. to help us out and because they themselves hungered for homemade molasses.org/lochist/periodicals/bittersweet/sp74f.Springfield-Greene County Library -.] The valuable copper vat must be cleaned for storage. The hot and tiring hand hoeing. harvesting and cooking. (see photo page 20) So. did the greatest amount of the labor with the rest of us helping out on thinning. and to Arnen Beery for loaning us his mill and pan. Mule power turns the mill to extract the cane juice. They could not find anyone in the county that still made molasses since the Charley Smith family last made them a few years ago. Ronnie Hough. even the demanding job of tending the cooking vats represented the bitter. But more sweet than 'them molasses' was the warm friendships and mutual admiration which developed as the staff and the Houghs worked together that long October weekend when we all learned how to make sorghum molasses--bittersweet style. they and their son Charles decided to grow the cane and make some themselves if the BITTERSWEET staff would furnish the labor. [29] http://thelibrary.

htm 10/12/2012 .Bittersweet Page 13 of 13 Copyright © 1981 BITTERSWEET. Next Article | Table of Contents | Other Issues Local History Home http://thelibrary.org/lochist/periodicals/bittersweet/sp74f.Springfield-Greene County Library -. INC.