Agenda

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

Introduction of Sample Requirement GSP ( Graded Set Patterns ) Package JAG Pattern ( Base Size & GSP ) Trims Requirement ( Interlining / Zipper / Thread etc. ) Pre-Production Sample ( PPS ) Jump Size Set Sample Pilot Sample Size Set Sample ( SSS ) TOP Sample ( TOP ) Mini-QA Center Question & Answer ( Q&A )
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Prepared by : Raymond Chong ( JIL QA / Tech Team )

 Pro-Production Sample ( PPS )  Jump Size Set Sample  Pilot Sample  Size Set Sample ( SSS )  TOP Sample  Shipment Sample
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GSP package is for PPS making, which package is received by JIL merchandising team passing to vendor directly. Vendor should immediately notify JIL Merchandising Team if any of below items is missing from GSP package.
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GSP package should include following :-   

2 sets base size pattern, Match Marker for matching layout, Graded set patterns ( GSP ), Production spec sheet with completed stamp on top page, Original sample ( Sew-by sample ).
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Production spec sheet with Completed Stamp for PPS making.

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Vendor should check with JIL Tech Team if they have any questions regarding all technical issues :-    

JAG original pattern VS size spec, Pattern layout VS Mini Marker, Spec Sheet details, Sewing construction, Measurement etc.
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 Enquiry on PPS Making

If vendor / factory comes across any technical issue during PPS making, please address to JIL Tech Team ( Raymond Chong / Felix Ma ) by e-mail :Raymond Chong – Raymond.Chong@jil.com.hk Felix Ma – Felix.Ma@jil.com.hk
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 2 Sets Base Size Pattern

( 1 for vendor / factory, 1 for JIL office )
 GSP ( Graded Set Patterns )

Hard-copy / Soft-copy by E-mail – for vendor / factory PS : NO alteration / adjustment on JAG pattern is allowed, unless any authorization from JAG office is obtained.
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If vendor feels that pattern adjustment is need to be made for shrinkage, or make better fit, or construction change for their production line fitin appropriately etc. Then, a separate PPS, or mock-up should be made and sent with vendor adjusted tracing along with original PPS for JIL Tech Team review. Any variances should be noted on vendor PPS checklist report.
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 Matching Marker :--

Matching marker will be sending to vendor / factory for PPS making, and vendor must return the matching marker to JIL HK for PPS review. Once the PPS is approved by JAG office, matching marker will be returned to vendor / factory automatically.
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 Discrepancy Discovered

Vendor must follow JAG original pattern for PPS making, and check the base size pattern & GSP measurements out to see any discrepancy / grading against with the latest size spec. If any discrepancy is found, vendor should submit the checklist form with full sizes GSP measurements along with PPS, and write down the unreasonable issue ( E.g. discrepancy, or grading etc. ) for JIL Tech Team reference for reviewing PPS.
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JAG Pattern / GSP ( Measurement ) :

Non-Washed Program : Just follow JAG Pattern for cutting, and use accurate seam allowance for sewing, and write down the discrepancy on the checklist form when submitting PPS to JIL office. Washed Program : There will be 2 sets sample requested if vendor is not able to meet spec tolerance after making version A from JAG original pattern.
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Washed Program
Version A ) is to follow JAG Pattern exactly to cut, use accurate seam allowance as spec required to sew and wash.

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Version B ) is to adjust proper fabric / washing shrinkage to meet / close to the size spec requested. However, the silhouette / shape of pattern must be remained unchanged.
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( Version A & B ) 2 sets PPS for washed program is only for all labels handling by JAG office of NY Studio, which the top of right corner on the spec sheet has indicated NY1 or NY2 .

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For all labels handling by Bristol JAG office, PPS for washed program must be adjusted according to fabric / washing shrinkage to close to spec by 1 set ( 4 samples ) only. The spec sheet will indicate NY3, NY4, BR1 etc. PS : However, the JAG pattern silhouette / shape must be remained unchanged, just enlarged / or reduced.
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All Wet Processing Garments must have a copy of the PPS information sheet attached to them for JAG / JIL QA review PPS. For the set PPS making according to vendor adjustment, vendor must submit the Tracing together along when sending 2 sets of PPS. All PPS must have a hangtag attached to them with the style number and vendor name listed. For EDI of Replenishment and Key Item styles, the group number must also be listed.
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 

For EDI of Replenishment and Key Item Styles : -Once PPS from the initial group has been approved, a PPS is not required for each additional group as long as the groups are continuous. Other groups may be “ Auto-approved “ as an add-on. If there has been a break in production between groups ( two months or more ), JAG will not accept as add-on. New PPS must be submitted again.
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PS : JAG NY office has to be notified before vendor begins each group. This is because sometimes patterns have been revised between the groups, and JAG NY office needs to make sure vendor will proceed with the correct pattern, and in that case JAG may request a new PPS based on the new pattern. Also, there are some circumstances where JAG might need to request a Size Set, or TOP. Another reason why JAG have to be notified is, so JAG can sign off each group in LDM.
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JAG nominate suppliers
 Interlining – PCC / Vilene  Zipper – YKK / Talon / YNC / Genmore  Button / Snap – AGH, other nominated  Thread – A&E / Coats / Gunzetal
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Interlining No substitution / available quality is allowed, or can be used on PPS / SSS / TOP and bulk production. Any problem of the interlining as JAG assigned, vendor must raise up during PPS submission, and submit interlining test report with any alterative for JAG office review and final approval.

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 Zipper

Local zipper is not allowed for production use, and JIL does not prefer to use sub-quality zipper for PPS making. PS : Any zipper with claw top metal stopper must be avoid for production, or insert the stopper into the waistband invisibly.
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 Button

Button ( including Size ) must be according to spec required for using in bulk. Button tacking :-All button must be “ 11 “ tacking, except Jones Signature to be “ X Cross “ only. Button must be wrapped for size 24L or up.
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 Thread

No sub-quality / local thread can be used for production. Vendor must follow latest spec sheet for using specific thread stated ( e.g. Polycore, Tex size etc. ) on PPS as well.
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Thread color ( including top stitching, inside garment overlocking, button-hole etc. ) should be DTM to ground color of self fabric, unless specific required on spec. PS : For complete guide for thread using, please refer the updated Thread, Machinery & S.P.I. Standards from JAG issued.
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 Trims Approval

Vendor should submit all trimmings to JIL merchandising team for approval prior to ordering. PS : Thread type for blind stitch is classified for light & heavy weight fabric. Any fabric less than 2.6 oz must be using 200/2 multifilament. Any change will be commented given from JIL tech team during PPS approval.
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Introduction :-The requirement of PPS is to ensure vendor / factory well understood the constructions as specification sheet required for constructing sample for production. If there is matching required, vendor / factory must follow the layout requirement as JAG matching marker on the PPS for approval.
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All styles require a PPS for approval, unless they meet ALL of the following criteria :-    

Made in the same factory as previously Using the same pattern previously Non-match fabrics Production must be continuous with no more than a two months break in production Under 20,000 units
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 PPS Submission

When vendor / factory submits the PPS to JIL HK office, Four identical samples is required. PS : Any of listed below information is missing / late submission will cause PPS review delayed for sure.
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      

Sew-by / original sample, Latest spec sheet, Mini marker, JIL official checklist form & full sizes GSP measurement checklist, Washing information sheet., Base size JAG original pattern, ( matching marker for layout matching requirement etc. ) Factory tracing ( for Signature, Sport, Jeans and Studio and later Country & Easy Spirit etc. ).
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Matching / Layout :-Must follow JAG matching marker for making PPS ( especially for plaid / stripe ) for JAG approval. PS : Once the matching / layout have been changed by JAG required during PPS approval, JPEG would be requested for sending JIL QA / Technical for follow-up.

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Sample Yardage :-PPS yardage must be in the same fabric QUALITY as the bulk fabric. It can be in a sub-color or a sub-print if the fabric does not require matching. If vendor use substitute fabric, if bulk fabric is not available. Substitute preference would be :  

Same quality bulk from another order, Dups yardage, Available yardage from another season
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If fabric / yardage, trims ( button, snap or zipper ) and labels etc. on the PPS is not actual bulk for production, then it must be listed as sub-quality / available on vendor PPS checklist report. PS : Again, interlining cannot be sub-quality. Local zipper cannot be accepted. Thread type must be used as what spec specified.
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Spec Sheet ( Technical Package ) : -All the constructions on the PPS must be followed the latest spec sheet ( technical package ) for making. Any suggestion must be submitted another PPS or Mock-up sample for JAG final review and approval.

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Jump size set is required once PPS is approved by JAG office. Actually, this is vendor responsibility to ensure JAG patterns grading is matched with the size spec before production starting, especially for the washed program garment in shrinkage built-in.
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Vendor should raise up any issue to tech team at this moment on the JAG GSP against with size spec. Jones QA will take a look on the jump size set sample, if they are around the factory. However, again, this is definitely not Jones QA responsibility to hold the production until jump size set sample approval.
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Pilot sample is mandatory to require for 2 labels below after jump size set is finished :- 

Jones Signature Nine West

Sample should be pulled out from 1st pilot of production by Jones QA and sending to JIL Tech Team for review immediately.
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 Size set sample is required for all labels listed

below :-     

Jones Signature Jones Sport Jones Jeans Jones Studio Jones Country ( Petite – Fall ‘2004 ) Easy Spirit ( Fall ‘2004 )
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 Size set sample submission :--

Size set sample submission is almost the same as PPS, vendor must checked all points as final approval PPS comments along with SSS. Latest spec sheet, checklist form, washing info. and factory tracing must be required. PS : Missing any listed above will caused delayed SSS review.
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 TOP sample is required for 2 reasons below :- 

Order quantity most than 5,000 pcs. Size set sample is still not satisfactory by JAG office.

PS : Vendor / factory must take fully responsibility for bulk production quality issue, if TOP missing when required by JAG office
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Mini QA Center is a certified program ( factory QA training ) by JIL HK office. It is an ultimate goal of JIL QA / Tech Team in the coming future. Also, it helps both Jones and its business partners ( vendors / factories ) by training program definitely for sure.
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 Advantage for vendor / factory :-

Help the factory to help themselves -- Factory QA Training ( Certified program by JIL HK ) Set up Mini QA Center inside the factory to conduct quality monitoring / inspection on behalf of JIL QA. Create the sense of Quality concept between Factory Management & workers.
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 Advantage for Jones :-• • • •

Prevent Quality issue at the last minute. Safe-guard standard and on-time delivery. Reduce JIL QC / QA traveling time and expenses. Consistent quality standard goods from longterm business partners ( vendors / factories )
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Mini QA Center Organization Chart
F a c t o r y Q A C h ie f F a b r ic & D y e L o t I n s p e c t io n A c c e s s o ry I n s p e c t io n W a s h in g T e s t in g Q A P r e s s in g P a c k in g Q A
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S e w in g Q A I n - lin e R o v in g Q A F in a l S t a t io n Q A A Q L F in a l A u d it
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 Mini QA Center Procedures
Production Flow Raw Material Cutting Washing Sewing Line Pressing & Packing Fty Final Audit QA function Fabric Inspection (4 Point System) Accessory Inspection Spreading & Cutting QA Measurement & Outlook Appearance In-line QA Final QA AQL QA Pressing & Packing QA Check Packed Qty Final Inspection
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Question & Answer Section

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