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TRUNKS P38 > EAR COLOUR p o B WISH CHP THI HE1O LAICES TTHEM > BUY SANDALS pq~ YES, ALL AT THE SAKE T ME IT’ S MMERII “I’VE ALWAYS BEEN A BIT OF A HANDFUL” ABBEY CLANCY By ALEX BILMES PHOTOGRAPHS BY SØLVE SUNOSBØ. STYLING BY KATIE GRAND ABBEYL Iclous! 9 770960 515135 ~II HIHHH~IlDIlH HI~ SK AA GILL ESQUIRE’S AGONY UNCLE PROMISES NOT TO LAUGH DINNER IN MANILA TOM PARKER BOWLE GOES OUT FOR A FILl PUNK ROCKER TO TORY BOY TO BY YOUNG’S TURN TO THE RIGHT IT’S LIFE, GYM RICHARD T KELLY GETS SOME EXERCIS AUGUST 2011 I Eti.25

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t U ~1OROS BY TOM PARKER BOWLES PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS FLOYD a .ADVENTURE III “III a . 1 4 0~ F2 • — w~wi * — — I. a —í !— c EL —4 a’.

Food for the terminally uni nterested. The more people tried to put me off going. warm duck embryos and a strangely seductive dicta tor’s wife only one of which he doesn’t eat in lasked.. Great stones glittered on her slender fingers.ADVENTURE You love Indian. and smiled. the more determined I became to tramp its streets. That ubiquitous pall of smog. it’s always had a certain exotic. You kill for Chinese You dig Thai. a few minutes from he call came just after nine. phone chargers and nylon knickers every time the traffic grou nd to a halt? Yes and yes. Ever had a Filipino? Us neither. “is the girls.. the city seemed little different from any other sprawling. She looked up from the table. holdi ng out her hand. touris t friendly stuff. a nudge and a “say no more. security-cordoned business hub. We’re in Market! Market! — an upmarket c ollection of regional food stalls in Taguig. “She” of the “he” who was the great hope of post-war Philippines. straightened my back. wife of ioth Philippine president. hello. where my culinary education was to beg in. as I w alked into the gilded splendour of The Tivoli. far-flung charm. But as I hurried down the lushly carpeted corrido rs of the sumptuous Manila hotel. not som e searing insight into Philippine history. resplendent in a lime green dress. and a sy mphony of high-pitched horns? Check. And.” I’d splutter. jet black hair piled high. the high-rise. Bow ed goddammit — not a subtle nod but a Ml bend from the belly. “This is one of the safer food centres. in a fit of sti . the moment of truth. no. of what I wasn’t quite sure. whisked to the top of the hotel in a flag of tinkling muzak. I muttered.” says my guide Ivan Henares. soft-voiced and gentle. I’ll just be impartial. 8t years old. profligate. for God’s sake. say no more”. that lurks above the concrete? Yup. “Safe” in myexperience usually means emasculated. Manila to eat. the soft-lit hotel bar that we came to love. and suddenly come over all Monty Python. feather dusters. right? They go for the ladies. Just buying a ticket there made me guilty. Myheart sinks. with all the naughty bits removed. yellow as a s moker’s fingers. This was it. But it was one of the few cities in Southeast Asia I knew next to nothing about.Youasex tourist?” “Christ. “She” was Imelda Marcos. Unl ess they’re fearless foodie Tom Parker Bowles. “She” of the shoes. So why go? A city neither fame d for its food or beauty. it’s not the most obvious choice for adventures gastrono mic or aesthetic. nearly 3.” “Yeah right. before declaring martial law. Beggars. ill-tempered traffic. As I was driven from the airport to Makati. and bowed. And the wanton. my initial thrill was tempered by a niggle of concern. But then no one goes to Manila for the food. in Martinis.” said the soft female voice. “She’s here. “Oh. I made it to the hotel in one piece. sinews hewn from stee l. aad faces set hard against the world? And hawkers. And the next morning. her lacquered.000 pairs of them. the photographer. And there’s a great little Vietnamese place round the corner.” I mum bled my assent and flew out the door. stay in for Japanese. pausing only to change my tatty T-shirt fo r a slightly less tatty shirt. “I’m going the e to eat. piss and petrol? Of course. What would Marie Colvin do? Or Gill? The lift arrived and I stepped inside. Ha!” they’d say. All wh ile millions of her countrymen struggled to survive each day. mentally sharpe ning my quill as we spoke? I was here to write about food. determined to discover the world’s gr eat hidden cuisine. after a few too many coc ktails with Chris. bin juice. Or the boys. what’s the eti quette for dinner with a dictator’s wife? Should! be liberally outraged and refuse to even set foot in her presence? Or play it cool and detached. You go ou fo Korean. Southeast Asian metropolis. And there she was. Sluggish. distant but polite. Olymp ian spending that still astounds to this day — billions of dollars of public funds lavished on everything from Canaletto to the Crown Building in New York. untroubled by au tomatic gunfire or flying blades. exo tic spice. sop for the couldn’t-give-a-craps. Ferdinand Marco s. Or the ladyboys. ex-pat. flogging single cigarettes . banning a free press and exiling and imprisoning political opponents. “Come over. Ortheboys. On tour in the Filipino capital.! found myself in a market.” she said in a regal drawl. Or they don’t go at all. with a wink. I mean. The whiff of frying meat. And for me. Esquire’s gallivanting gourma nd encounters fried pigs’ heads. I looked her in the eye.

000 islands and spend my time in the capita!. “hell-hole” and “dirty di ve” were among the more complimentary descriptions.” opines shaggy rabble-rouser Rod Liddle in The Sunday Times. the sort of place that madeSodom and Gomorrah l ook like Marlow on a crisp autumnal morn. “Mani la?” said my friend. and “had no compunction using them”. “It’s a flicking armpit. a man so intimate with the cities of Southeast Asia that he c ould use theirtoothbrush the morningafter. So much for journalistic sangfroid. only to waste the entire visit in the loos by the main gate. They. “Cess-pit”.ll oilier lickspittlism.” He was not alone in his view. I called her “Ma’am”. are subl ime. without bein g forced to on business. on the other hand. No one could understand why I’d fly all the way out to this tropical republic of 7. and that cocks b attled on every street corner. that everyone carried guns. You want to get out sharpish. It was like going to Disneyland. to be endured with a hanky held firmly to one’s mouth. and into the Philippines proper. “One of the grimmest cities in the world. “The only reason a man goes to Manila.” said every male 082 . I was told. I was told that bodyguards were “essenti al”. This was a city.

Think of how many Filipinos there are across the world: milli ons and millions.p \ ‘-S. And the bright white crosses. It’s beer food.“ nods Ivan with approval. ye t where are the restaurants. “The problem is. “Very P ampanga a province in the Central Luzon region .4 — ADVENTURE j~7. Then turns to me.ooo in London alone. all in neat rows. “Youshouldget up there. we didn’t reconstruct. and are uni que in doing that. We look east and west. Japanese or Korean community. and Spanish. Chinese and American. a few days to flatten — That was the price we all had to pay. ‘(S -E” “F__I % . but has an interesting history.” Damn. Add in widespread corruption. M anila is a lovely city. They wanted to decimate the Japanese and succeeded. I’m standing on one of the most pristi ne lawns I’ve ever seen. After liberat ion. de spite the hundreds of thousands — civilian and armed forces — who also perished at t he same time. absentmindedly.” says Ivan. The fluoresc ently verdant glow of the grass is made all the more luminous by the dirty grey concrete sprawled all around. “iswhathappened. lost in thought. And how many restaurants? You can count them on one hand. There are Filipinos all over the world. “The food here is a fusion of the Malay at its base. “And don’t like paying to eat food we’d make better at home anyway.” > . But we lost everything —400 years to build. Narra a nd acacia trees sway gently in the breeze and an American flag flutters above th e tall stone chapel. “It’s not an old dish. shovelling more of this beautiful melange into my mouth. There must be around t~o. —I _. “During the liberation of Manila. for which we’ll be forever grateful.” He pauses. People assume it’s dangerous and primitive.”sayslvan.” he waves his arm at thecityaroundus. “Its birthpl ace is only an hour or so northofthecity.” He fiddles. It’s underrated too. “You know. It makes Wimbledon’s Centre Court look shabby. from the city to the food. “America flattened and obl iterated the city. wh ich stretch out into the distance. with a straw. You have to understand the history to understand everything. a well-manicured slice of Am erica in the heart of Manila. At last . lots of fat and heat and flavour. we built new buildings. That’s larger than any Thai.. And they saved us.” Two hours later. It’s impossible not to be moved. Yet there’s little sign of a Filipino equivalent. a mighty tribute to US personnel killed here during the Second World War. the famous dishes that equal dim sum. This is the American Cemetery and Memorial. • that tastes somewhere between lime and orange cuts through the fatty edge..A_ p ‘~-~‘C . and don’t realis e how big it is. and this. it’s good. in Mindanao. or green curr y or pho?” He’s right. I’m smiling.” Ivan says as we get up to leave. But problems are only down in the south. we adapt easily t o new places. It’s the great hidden cuisine.

In theory anyway. it still feels lik e stumbling around in a pizza oven.. does noth ing to temper the sugar. save in the region of Bicol). a jaunty sort of local music with ahint of the Mexican mariachi. I’m off to a bad start._. and soft slivers of pig cheek and the gelat inous crack of the snout and ear. corn. We sit down. All around. His blog. another stew. JJinuguan. bovine wobble of the offal is superb. but perhaps the naysayers were ri ght after all. you can eat your way around the regions without breaking a sweat.. I take a bigspoonful. armed guards and information centres. “Karc-kare. HIGH LIFE AND STREET LIFE THE CHAOTIC STREETS AND FRAGRANT MARKET FOOD OF MANILA . It’s tripe in a teeth-achingly sweet peanut-butter sauce. “They’re all blind.• . Here.. a band plays. Ivanhenares. and we have his wisdom on tap for the day. heavy a nd a little turgid. But it’s dull. well ... 1’ I. Despite a seasonal lull in the temperature. I smile wanly and we move to the next stall. “Pig’s blood with meat andoffal. a squeeze of calamansi a cherry sized citrus “The onlY reaS°~ . A bowl of bright yellow. Lfld ice zlly . Sisig. and a dash of the Spanish flamenco.~ —7~S I“c’Thgr__-i. this t ime blacker than eternal night. something. where another bowl appears. a great regional dish. Then salvation arrives in the unlikely form of a chopped and frie d pig’s head.-c_%__. I know it’s just two dishes. Smart F rench boulangeries and English bookshops. The soft. ~-\. There’s a whisper ofvinegar and various unidentifiable pieces of pig. The whole area is neat and scrubbed.od Makati. sipping Coca~Cola and gobbling their lunch. E ven the intensely salty. Chillies add fire not a Filipino staple. IFAR LEFTI IMELDA MARCOS SERVES UP SOME CHARM FOR TOM PARKER BOWLES OVER DINNE R -‘9 —a 1. There are crunchy nuggets of flesh.” he explains. P A ~. orshrirnp paste.” Ivan says. but the dish is memorable for allthe wrong reasons. In the background.” I take a mouthful. is essential reading for the Manila vi rgin. meaning “chop-chop” after the action involved in making the dish. families chatter and paw the ir telephones. fishy hit of bagoongalamang. is plonked on the table.

a ~afl qoes to MaflhlO is the qiriS. no. I’d splutter “I’m ‘V qoiflQ to eat .Or the bOYS w ‘jou a sex tour1~t’? “Christ.

pe pe rco ns chicken livers end pork Cover and bring to boil. gates and bulwarks of Intramuros. Marlboro and Merit Menthols — and you’ll occasionally. bird’s eye chillies to tas eli go or 10 0201 a stoc pot. pineap to luice. 2ttr water. ‘They’re not authen tic. first and foremost. . crawl through the traffic — through the mass of concrete and corrugated i ron. Where do you go after total decimation? There wasn’t the lu xury of preserving all those years of heritage. Modern Man ila ain’t a pretty city. pig’s head Is best. as different from yesterday’s lurid peanutbutter offering as could possibly be. shaded walks and cool arcades. There is a I tti’ that gobbles up foreign influences. Mix in lime lu ce chopped onions. happen across a handsome colonial house. into my bowl. guava-spiked broth.” said the late Filipino food guru Doreen G Fernandez. log blac pe erc orns. Butyou eensubstitutethis fortheseme amoun t otbetlypork 1kg pork belly. lSg sai . 21 Remove pork end chicken livers en c ol D iscard liquid 31 Grill pork over charcoal until sk becomes crisp loriry over hig h heat in a pan Chop chicken livers into smell cubes. to o. Before I. splashed across buildings and daubed across jeepneys . the elongated 4M~ that provide the city’s cheapest public transport. “these things take time. Just before erv ng. and e tra chullies an tm on the sid “Balut is the street food equivalent the of AniffiOl Farm v’’-~ Ion porno verS-~ as a ~~~naqer. Manila wasn’t born bad. It you hevethe time. “Godly Fear” quivers another. a dainty fern he picked that mornin It’s crisp and delicate. money to be made. sinigang. pepper and chill ies. “God is Love” screams one typically garish billboard. though. They’re expensive and Filipino people will say. It was once one of Asia’s loveliest ci ties — the “Pearl of the Orient”. they’re geared for foreigners and we can cook better at home. ears and ch k 2 large hue oni ns. This was the upside of5oo years of Spanish ru le. rather the necessity of instant rebuilding. mbce. the rotting façades peekingout between the endless signs selling Pizza Hut an d Wendy’s Delivery.j with a pickled quail’s egg and a sharp mango dressing “We seem to lack a decent marketing of our food. “Properly done. add the water. Or the crumbling remains of wal ls.‘% 31516 [Serves 6) ThIs Istakenfrom Kuusnarye. so why bother?’” Ka re-kare appears from the kitchen. Cook to ebou t an hour. salt. white vinegar.” agrees Claude as he spoons the tart. a tertili5~ duo egg1 complete with embryo — • — colour. T .” he says betw~~ bites ofpako. It’s light. “One distinct characteristic of Filipino food is the sourness. And we don’t show off our own food. 6 chicken livers. heat a skillet br ces iron griddle pan until white hot.” says Claude. mix with pork and place in a bowl. Put in mea mixture This is the hird coo Ing 5 g where the meat ge brown r nd ru nchi Ser e wi h cold b er. very occasi onally. salt. with beautiful colonial churches and breezy boulevar ds. 2tbsp lime iuice: 60m1 white vinegar. the slightly soured. There were hovels to be built. the fortified Spanish fortress. rather keep it to ourselves. Upscale Filipino restauran~ have never worked. diced br 1kg deboned p g’ head: ow s.” “We like the slightly boiled. and elegant with just a hint of earthy sweetness. Now. un I meet is fork tender.‘V ADVENTURE Unlike Milton Keynes. “It’s brought about by our being a tropical country. And God. everywhere. one otthe great modern books on Philippine cuisine. hen simmer. SDDmI pineapple luice.

season to season. “This area is where some of the best food in the Philippines comes from. let’s eat. gu ards dropped. The younger generation is rediscovering its culinary roots..” He adds inacouple of fat. Then the Amer icans came. hell a nd brimstone Catholicism is the order of the day. outsells the Big Mac. is “Catholic Priest in Ancient War with ‘Demons”. “a religion in itself. leaning back in his chair.” We’re driving north west of Manila.” says Cla ude.he headline in that morning’s Manila Times. especially palm vinegar. B oth countries left indelible footprints. We pass paddy fields “Rice is the staple of all meals. a taste for the fas t and processed. black pepper and > O8’~ . Each region is distinct . “Try this.” Ivan had said). and more popular. and chu nks of milkfi h and fingers ofokra. garlic. “It’s kamias. High churchin’. electricity. But today . Without rice. You get the salt from the fermented fish and shrimp pastes. They say that in New York you’re never more than 6ft from a rat. and endless hoardings exhorting us to “Drink Colt! The Strong Beer for Real Men”. Jollibee Spaghetti. This is America’s real legacy. Go figure. phonebox-red rivercrayfish.” “Every region has its own version of adobo. cooking with vinegar. But it’s Jollibee..” I take a bite of a green pod that is incredibly sour. that’s the most ubiqu itous of all. just below “President to Teach Lawyers H ow to Fire Guns”. towards Pampanga. Or eat at Dairy Queen. And stayed for 400 years. so is a technique rather tha n an actual dish.” He echoes Ivan’s arguments as to the world standing of Filipino food. an artist. “Now. Cinnabon. The Spanish pitched up back in 1521. But I do fear the McDonaldisation of our country. or the fish sauce.” The soup is rich yet light: a meal in one. known as the “gourmet province” and birthplace of the luscious sisig. scu lptor. “It means anything cooked with vinegar. He’s tall and imme diately likeable. greedy for money and Catholic converts. Can be green mango. The cou ntry remains predominantly Catholic — So per cent of the population. Salt and vinegar. It’s joyous to escape the stifling city and its i~m inhabitant s. “People forget how varied Filipino food is. binding the family together. The same might be true in Manila. the national burger chain. bringing universal education and a vastly improved infrastructure. It’s been a few hours. The heart of Filipino food. I’ve never seen ju nk-food advertising so rampant. The burgers are slightly sweeter than Ronald’s. “This is a cuisine that adapts. with a slight paunch. but you’re certainly never more than ~ft from a Jol libee. o ur new guide. McDonald’s. tamarind or even lemon juice. Tayag.” says Lilah. has warm eyes and a wide face. was a way to prolong the life of adish. TOM AND CLAUDE TUCK IN IABOVEI meal. and belts are unbuckled. They vary fro m region to region. furniture-maker and chef. one of the many souring agents we use. with a sweet tomato sauce. But the staples are vinegar. we’re eschewing fast food for lunch at Claude Tayag’s house.” he says in his husky voice. “Food is like a ritual here. it’s not a BIRD OF PREY THE FOWL BUSINESS OF COCKFIGHTING IN MANILA WITH RAZOR-EQUIPPED BIR DS IS A BLOODY GAME IDPPDSITEI.

ADVENTURE S 0 4 ‘F .

” I nod. Food is very individual here. A soft boiled egg in mink cape. We do love sour things in general. “Remember.” I’m nervous. is riot of kitsch. And spice is generally added. And have certainly thrown up over less. It’s a fertilised duck egg. What was once a regional Pampanga food became a national obsess ion. And I’m hoping more people will take as much care of the presentation. do it properly. my mind going bac k to the previous day. or anything I fermented in vinegar. surprisingly undramatic. “Do-d o-do-do. and everything comes with vinegar. the cartilage more crunchy. packing a gold-plated AK-47. I want to eat more. But it was only in the Sixties. I swallow it down and bite into the egg. I could go on and on. an d mixed with chopped onions. “Break the bottom and drink out the juice. and the cooking. “This is how we must change. so there was another layer of flavour. Makeitloo kappetising. belly pork and fairy lights. in Manila the chef has no ego. Find the time. “Baaaaaluuuut” — cry the vendors as dusk rushes in. I’m inspired. then batut is certainl y a surprise. his book on Filipino food and travel. its virtues. in 1980 in Mani la.com . regally rich and pungent. we don’t eat balut with feathers and bones . no bigger than a ~op piec e. But no worse than a decent Epoisses cheese. “This was originally a sour dish. made to quench a pregnant woman’s cravings.” We leave. The n open the top. “Huchen . “Later in the pregnancy. superior to the day before. the lean power behind tour-guide company Old Manila Walks old manjlawajks.ADVENTURE bay. the betting was more thrilling than the main event. tempered with a hint of shit and decay. I’ve something to prove. like the porno and Manila. add vinegar or salt. One more Filipino myth destroyed. The blades are unsheat .” goes the crowd. this lady sells good ones. huchen. The broth is rich. Claude makes his own version.. adaptingodds and taking bets with out the aid ofpaper. I t’s beautiful. too.” He buys two. too. reluctantly. it’s you eating. suffers froma wildlyexaggerate d reputation.” He ‘4 takes a swig ofSan Miguel and smiles. The noise crescendoes. The chillies are ho tter. peel the egg and devo ur. Now. the pavement equivalent ofAnimal Farm the porno version you s aw as a teenager on grainy VHS.” He shakes his head. when local stall holder Aling Lucing. just shoving everything in the same pot an d using over-fatty meat. But then there’s balut. The duck is tiny.“That would be disgusting. before they develop too much. the peanut butter in your kare-kare. They’re best at about i6 days. So we don’t take the short cuts. and served it on a sizzling platter. then silence. I u se the freshest ingredients and make it look good.” And there are many.sell I. [Founder Lucia “L ucing” Cunanan] used all the pig heads from the US base next door. certainly when compared to Thailand or Vietnam. eat the embryo.” I settle back still fur ther into my chair. or beer and noodles in the panciterias. clasping bottles of Claude’s homemade crab fat and copies of Food Tou r. Or taking the easy route to adobo. Yuk! Gross! Now. They had no use for them. But if not a delight. yet this is not abou t feathers and crunching bones. the fried meat sticky and chewy. boiled pig’s ears and tails would be dipped in vin egar. So unripe mang o or guava.” cries the kristo orbet-taker. happy to listen to Claude for hours.” In just two days. sing means anything served on a sizzling plate.” says Ivan Man Dy. grilled the ears and snouts further until blackened. not the chef. “God. scrunched fabrics. “Now the ge neral complaint is that Filipino food is brown and oily. Street food is not a big draw here. “But that’s just not true. tho ugh I’m not entirely sure what it is. If you gave that to me. Next.. Sisig being a particular on e. si tting among old men and their endless games of cards. But it’s the ea ter who finishes off his dish. Then there’s the cockfight. Look at what you’ve eaten today. chillies and boiled chicken livers. I’d spit it out. Dinn er at Café Juanita. And it took off. waggling their fingers in some secret punters’ code. I’d munched through three separate adobo versions. no. huchen. and. run by Manila’s best obstetrician. with the texture of a warm oyster. Then a brother of mine opened his own place. Trellis. just a mile or so from here. too. . complete a Ovili r with embryo. After all.

com H e used to be a banker. She introduces me toJoel Binamira .” The pig. single-minded passion as Claude. mighty cocks. someti mes stuffed with lemongrass or fruit or beer. full stop. horny. brutally swift. slow — at others. Then the fight begins. Margarita Fores puts together a feast in every sense. a place of erron80~ preco ncePtbor~S But it has a heart of gold 086 . With about 12 hours’ notice. the thin and intelligent man behind the blog Market Manila (marhetmanila. like metal spurs on the cock’s legs. Chef. but also a very traditional Manila’s a city with a pockma’~~ face and a horrible limp. but food’s his real passion.hed. a great. But it’s dinner on my last night in Manila that turns a growing fli rtation into true love. At times. shiny roast pig: “A speciality across the region. strut and claw and crow. These glossy. One of the best things I’ve ever tried. then consultant. He talks eloq uen y on Iechdn. It’s all over in a tr ickle ofblood. exud ing the same. she’s small and sexy. sits gleaming in the centre of the table. seemingly coated in thin t offee. preened as a pony club steed. “It’s a celebratory dish. razor sharp and gleaming. writer and restaurateur. He breaks off a shard of the br ittle skin. It’s the finest piece of pigskin I’ve ever eaten.

it’s the plucky survivor. She’s not so rich now. Six hours s belier.com/maflila A COIN INTO THE CUP Ross Raisin’s second novel takes on homelessness. The and writ e a book about that guy and the thousands like him.” Joel nods and we get on with the eating. scratch away the generalisations and long-held cant. Set with a hint of aside. funny. 1SO’C and cook far 2—2¼h . then country. T OM TRIES FILIPINO FAST FOOD ILEFTI A Ii 0 BO N 13 (Serves This is a varlatlen on the cLassic adobo dish. Just like the food. The shipyards he knew as P. Idohopeyou’llbeback. and head stuffed with c hat and goodwill. granny too. a place of erroneous preconceptions.. the love of home cooking. Even traditional dishes now come from packets. not made of the real precious m etal. Hence the profile of our dishes ab road. simmer and add beef. over high heat. lechdn. eaten way before the Spaniards arrived. whose wor ld ceases to have meaning after his wife’s death. “It’s all there.Salt to taste.”YesMa’am. Overlooked and underappreciated. Add rena ning Cleopatra and your ma nadetopan Add water to the pan. were gold sandals Put in the oven at — well. Margarita and many others. the sisig. Iwill. feeling pleased with yourself. ‘The idea of the stereotypical Glaswegian itineran t and tracing him back. Simple. It hums and throbs and buzzes and whirrs. As we drive back to the hotel. Claude. part Li z Taylor. willowy and carrying an umbrella. At the end. I just couldn’t hour. You can’t fail.” Joel says. my belly full. s oy sauce and charming. But it has a heart of gold. “We mustn’t lose it. it’s a city with a pockmarked face and a hor rible limp. Ross Raisin deoid ed to go a few steps further homeless guy outside the ou’ve seen him. Stsp sa black popperco .” says Marg arita. In the opening pages we meet Miok Little. peppercorns with vinegar.Close-up one. So much for the shithole. it’s region first. 30m1 soy sauce: 2 bay eaves: Iltr water. Hard times and all that. g old coloured. Visit Manila with those in the know. “To Dear est Tom. yet glorious. Waterline announces Raisin as a profound thinker as well as a distinctive voi oe. she gave me a pl ate: a picture of her in her full pomp. Lik e the kind beauty who’s fallen on hard times. With jokes! y II. by the way.” Following God’s Own Co untry. II In a bowl. “is that here. between bites . Manila (÷6327508888 noandari noriental.” I chew. Her bring to boll. Part Dame Brown meat in batches Edna. sinigangand adobo are world-cla ss dishes. mar nate for at least an Sorry.” At their best. combine Well. But myself. and how they got there. And that s ourness is just right. 4 station. a shipbuilderfrom Govan. You might drop a few coi ns in before accelerating away. lkgbeefshortrl S or b risk a BOmf ground nuto I Oclovesgarl c l2Omlvlnegar cane. F* Tom ParkerBowles stayed at the Mandarin Oriental. “The b ook started with an interest in homelessness and I wentfrom there. stunningly clean.OSS RAISIN PHOTOGRAPHED FOR ESQUIRE IN LONDON BY N SOFIA RI CHTER 16 MAY THERE WILL BE PIG’S BLOOD DINUGUAN IABOVEI IS PORCINE BLOOD WITH MEAT AND OFFAL. We must f ight to protect our heritage. a family — a story. oup proffered in hope rather than expectation. Far more than a mere hub for the res t of the country. what do you gail c and cracked think? Clever. “The problem. we want to keep traditional cooking alive. Yes. I look around. I had a ball. then shoe s. Manila’s one hell of a capital cit y. Method As for Imelda. to laugh at herself Add the beef an d I was seduced. and happy bay leaves. palm or whitel. Heattheoi inapan help it. my head in hog heaven.. We si p on Margarita’s sinigang. his debut which won The Sunday Times’ Young Writer of the Year Award in 200 9.” says the 31-ye ar-old Yorkshire-born novelist. elegant and fresh tasting. food and ingredients. giving him a life. late into the night. an archipelagic afterthought. You just have to look beyond the obvious.

5 n cubes i’llnceth gartc Crack hepe pp 4 a youth have long since died too. I t’s the death ofaway of life. And what would happen if it ceased t o be. The authors mor dant humour is never far away (another vagrant complains that the Polish homeles s are taking all the best dossing spots). Miok is left alone to dwell on his future.r Asky urbu char to Cutshoetr borbri at nto 1. and Waterline sidesteps sentimentality . “I was interested in industry. but his spiral from menial jobs to sleeping rough and drinking is rapid.” Kevin Sampson Waterline (Viking) is out on 7July 087 . and Miok finds himself adrift.” Raisin says.” After the fUneral. “The idea that a community oould be built around this on e activity and everyone was affected by it. As Raisin sees it: “There’s always the sense that what happened to Miok could happ en to anyone. He takes a night bus to London with a notion of starting over. That idea of bereavement goes beyond the actual factof Mioks wife dying.