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High in the Andes, amid dramatic, mist-covered peaks, Quito is a beautifully located city packed with historical monuments and architectural treasures. It’s Ecuador’s most dynamic city, with a vibrant civic scene and a fascinating collection of neighborhoods. Dining, drinking and merrymaking are all part of the equatorial experience in the world’s second-highest capital. Quito’s jewel is its historic center, or ‘old town’ as it’s often called. A Unesco World Heritage site, this handsomely restored neighborhood blooms with 17th-century facades, picturesque plazas and magnificent churches that blend Spanish, Moorish and indigenous elements. It’s also home to the presidential palace, which presides over the animated streets full of people from all walks of society mingling throughout the day. Just north of the old town lies the aptly named ‘new town,’ a modern and bustling collection of neighborhoods, intersected by noisy avenues and sprinkled with high-rises. The magnet for travelers is the Mariscal Sucre, a condensed area of guesthouses, travel agencies, diverse eateries and a pulsing nightlife scene. This is indeed ‘gringolandia’ as some locals describe the area, though plenty of quiteños (Quito residents) frequent the bars and restaurants here. Quito is an alluring city for wanderers, where a day’s saunter can lead past little-explored cobblestone lanes through lively markets and shops, and on up into hilly neighborhoods where breathtaking views lurk around every corner. Not surprisingly, the capital is a popular place to enroll in a Spanish school and stay for a while – perhaps far longer than planned, as more than a few captivated expats can attest. For many – foreigners and locals alike – Quito is the heart and soul of Ecuador.
Explore the picturesque streets of old town (p79), its cobblestones crisscrossing one of Latin America’s finest colonial centers. Pay homage to Guayasamín, one of Ecuador’s greatest painters, at the fascinating Capilla del Hombre (p92). Discover the vastness of Ecuador’s cultural treasures at the Museo del Banco Central (p87), housing the country’s finest collection of pre-Colombian and colonial art. Journey north to learn about the thousandyear-old civilization well acquainted with the true equator at the Museo de la Cultura Solar (p115). Join the revelry in the animated bar scene of the Mariscal (p108). TELEPHONE CODE: 02 POPULATION: 1.5 MILLION AREA: 324 SQ KM
e (Av Occid
Museo de la Cultura Solar (17km)
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Av M ari
Old Town; Plaza San Francisco
Museo del Banco Central
Capilla del Hombre
QUITO •• History
The site of the capital city dates from preHispanic times. The early inhabitants of the area were the peaceful Quitu people, who gave their name to the city. The Quitus integrated with the coastal Caras, giving rise to the indigenous group known as the Shyris. Around AD 1300, the Shyris joined with the Puruhás through marriage, and their descendants fought against the Incas in the late 15th century. By the time the Spanish arrived in Ecuador in 1526, Quito was a major Inca city. Rather than allowing it to fall into the hands of the Spanish conquerors, Rumiñahui, a general of Atahualpa, razed the city shortly before their arrival. There are no Inca remains. The present capital was founded atop the ruins by Spanish lieutenant Sebastián de Benalcázar on December 6, 1534. Many colonial-era buildings survive in the old town.
The far south of Quito consists mainly of working-class residential areas. Few travelers venture here – it’s unsafe and there are few sights. The surrounding hills and peaks make orienting yourself easy: Cruz Loma and the flanks of Volcán Pichincha are the massive mountains to the west of the city. If you stand facing them, north will be to your right; to the south looms the giant hilltop statue of La Virgen de Quito. The bus terminal is directly south of the old town, about a 10-minute walk from the Plaza Grande. The best way into town from the airport is by taxi (see p113). Quito’s streets are usually one-way: Calles Guayaquil and Venezuela head into the old town, and Calles García Moreno and Flores head out.
The tourist office distributes free, useful maps with scenic highlights. For something more in-depth, you can purchase the indexed Quito Distrito Metropolitano ($6) published by Prodoguias. It’s sold at the main tourist office and in some pharmacies. Excellent topographical maps ($2 each) and various tourist-highlight maps are available in the map-sales room at the Instituto Geográfico Militar (IGM; Map pp88-9; %254-5090; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, 7am-12:30pm Fri), located on top of a hill southeast of Parque El Ejido. There are no buses, so you have to either walk or take a taxi, and you’ll need to leave your passport at the gate. Aside from the giant map of Quito for sale, city maps are limited.
ADDRESSES IN QUITO
A few years ago, Quito changed to a new address system based on ‘N,’ ‘S,’ ‘W’ and ‘E’ quadrants. An old address might be Avenida Amazonas 433, while the new one would be Avenida Amazonas N22-62; the numbers bear no relation to each other. Most buildings now display the new address, but some show the old address, and some have both. In other words, it can be extremely confusing. Both are used in this chapter, depending on the information received from each business. Taxi drivers find places based on cross streets.
High in the mountains but near the equator, Quito enjoys mild days and cool nights most of the year. Evening temperatures of 7°C and daytime temperatures of 25°C are common. Seasonal variations are slight, with a rainy season running from October to May (April is often the wettest month) and drier, slightly warmer months running from June to September.
Ecuador’s second-largest city after Guayaquil, Quito spreads along the floor of a high Andean valley in a roughly north– south direction. The Centro Histórico (historical center) holds nearly all of Quito’s famous colonial architecture; locals call it El Centro, and English-speakers the ‘old town.’ The north is modern Quito – the ‘new town’ – with all major businesses and services. Most hotels and restaurants are found here, especially in the travelers’ ghetto of the Mariscal Sucre (aka the Mariscal), where many foreigners eat, sleep and drink. The northern end of the city contains the airport and the middle- and upper-class residential areas. Avenida Amazonas is the best-known street, although Avenida 10 de Agosto and Avenida 6 de Diciembre are the most-important thoroughfares.
QUITO •• Information
Start your day off in the old town (p79) with a cuppa at El Cafeto (p104). From there, stroll the picturesque streets, taking in La Compañía de Jesús (p83), the Museo de la Ciudad (p84) and Plaza San Francisco (p84). In the evening, drink or dine at the magical rooftop setting of Vista Hermosa (p103). On day two, ride the telefériQo (p85) up to Cruz Loma. Visit the Capilla del Hombre and nearby Museo Guayasamín (p92), before heading to the Mariscal for souvenir shopping at Galería Latina (p110) and coffee at Kallari (p107). Close the night with dinner and drinks at El Pobre Diablo (p108).
Follow the two-day itinerary, then on your third day add an excursion to La Mitad del Mundo (p114), possibly overnighting inside the nearby volcanic crater (p116). On the last day, visit the Museo del Banco Central (p87), and then see the orchids at the Jardín Botánico (p92). That evening, join the salsa-loving crowds at Seseribó (p109).
Abya Yala Bookstore (Map pp88-9; %250-6247; www .abyayala.org; cnr Av 12 de Octubre 1430 Wilson; h8am7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) Outstanding selection of books on indigenous culture and anthropology (in Spanish). Confederate Books (Map p90; %252-7890; Calama 410; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Ecuador’s largest selection of second-hand books in English and several other languages. English Bookstore (Map p90; %254-3996; Calama 217; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) Good selection of used books in English. Libri Mundi (Map p90; %223-4791; www.librimundi .com, in Spanish; Mera 851; h8:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm & 3-6pm Sat) Quito’s best bookstore, with a good selection of titles in English, German, French and Spanish. Lonely Planet guides available. Libro Express (Map p90; %254-8113; Av Amazonas 816 btwn Wilson & Veintimilla; h9:30am-7:30pm MonFri, 10am-6pm Sat) Good for maps, magazines, Lonely Planet guides and Ecuador-related books. Paldeia Books (Map pp88-9; %223-2417; Leonidas Plaza N21-262; h9:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon Sat) Small shop selling new and used titles in Spanish, English, German and French.
Tue & Thu-Fri, to 5pm Wed) A good information source for black Ecuadorian culture and events in Quito. Centro Cultural Metropolitano The hub of cultural events in the old town (see p80). Centro Cultural Mexicano (Map pp88-9; %2561548; firstname.lastname@example.org; Orellana 473; h10am1pm & 3:30-5:30pm Mon-Fri) Features great monthly exhibits of Mexican artists.
Ambulance (%131) Emergency (%911) Fire (%102) Police (%101)
The Mariscal area (along J Calama) is packed with internet cafés, many with inexpensive international calling rates. Most charge $0.75 to $1 per hour: Friends Web Café (Map p90; Calama E6-19;
h7:30am-10:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10:30pm Sat & Sun) Cozy internet café with tasty juices and snacks. La Sala (Map p90; cnr Calama & Reina Victoria; h8ammidnight) Buzzy net café, where you can enjoy decent coffee, dessert and snacks over email or inexpensive international calls. Monkeys (Map p90; Mera N24-200, 2nd fl; 8am-11pm) Popular, traveler-recommended internet café. Papaya Net (Map p90; Calama 413 at Mera; h7:30am-1am) The most-popular internet café in the Mariscal, with good music, drinks and snacks. Papaya Net Old Town (Map p86; Chile Oe4-56, Palacio Arzobispal; h8am-2am) The old town’s best cyber spot, with a great location facing Plaza Grande.
Alianza Francesa (Map pp88-9; %224-9345/50; Av
Eloy Alfaro N32-468) French cultural center near Belgica and Av 6 de Diciembre. Asociación Humboldt (Map pp88-9; %254-8480; Vancouver E5-54 at Polonia) German cultural center. Casa Cultural Afro-Ecuatoriano (Map p90; %2220227; Av 6 de Diciembre Oe123-58; h10am-8pm Mon-
QUITO •• Information
Corporación Metropolitana de Turismo (www.qui
Gay Guide to Quito (http://gayquitoec.tripod.com) Municipal website (www.quito.gov.ec, in Spanish)
Hospital Voz Andes (Map p82; %226-2142; cnr Villalengua Oe2-37 & Av 10 de Agosto) American-run hospital with an outpatient department and emergency room near the Iñaquito trolley stop.
There are no laundries in the old town. Most hotels will wash and dry your clothes, but this is expensive. The following wash and dry clothes within 24 hours (often within five), charging between $0.75 and $1 per kilo: Lavanderia (Map p90; Foch Es-43) Opera de Jabón (Map p90; %254-3995; Pinto 325
There are several banks and a few casas de cambio (currency-exchange bureaus) in the new town, along Avenida Amazonas between Avenida Patria and Orellana, and there are dozens of banks throughout town. Banks listed here have ATMs and change traveler’s checks. If you need to change money on a Sunday, head to the Producambios at the airport: the casa de cambio in the international arrival area is open for all flight arrivals. American Express (Map p90; %256-0488; Av
Amazonas 329, 5th fl; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Sells Amex traveler’s checks to Amex card-holders only. Also replaces lost or stolen checks. Banco de Guayaquil Av Amazonas (Map p90; %2564324; Av Amazonas N22-147 at Veintimilla); Colón (Map p90; Colón at Reina Victoria) Banco del Pacífico new town (Map pp88-9; %2501218; 12 de Octubre & Cordero); old town (Map p86; %228-8138; cnr Guayaquil & Chile) Banco del Pichincha (Map p86; %258-4149; Guayaquil btwn Olmedo & Manabí) MasterCard (Map p82; %226-2770; Naciones Unidas 8771 at De Los Shyris) Producambios airport (Map p82; h6am-9pm); Mariscal (%256-3900; Av Amazonas 350; h8:30am-6pm MonFri, 9am-2pm Sat) Servicio Cambios (Venezuela N5-15; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Visa (Map p82; %245-9303; De Los Shyris 3147) Western Union Av de la República (Map pp88-9; %2565059; Av de la República 433); Colón (Map pp88-9; %2901505; Av Colón 1333) For money transfers from abroad.
Sun City Laundry (Map p90; %255-3066; cnr Mera
Wash & Go (Map p90; %223-0993; Pinto 340, btwn
Mera & Reina Victoria)
The following individual doctors have been recommended, many of whom have offices in the Centro Meditropoli (Map p82) near the Hospital Metropolitano. Clínica de la Mujer (Map p82; %245-8000; Av
Amazonas 4826 & Calle de Villarroel) A private clinic specializing in women’s medical problems. Clínica Pichincha (Map p90; %286-2680; 6ta Transversal & Av El Progreso) Does lab analysis for parasites, dysentery etc. Dr Alfredo Jijon (Map p82; %245-6359, 246-6314; Centro Meditropoli, office 215, Mariana de Jesús & Av Occidental) Gynecologist. Dr John Rosenberg (Map p90; %252-1104, ext 310, 222-7777, 09-973-9734, pager %222-7777; Foch 476) Internist specializing in tropical medicine; speaks English and German, makes house calls and is available for emergencies nearly anytime. Dr Jorge Cobo Avedaño (Map p82; %225-6589, 246-3361, ext 222; Centro Meditropoli, office 004) Englishspeaking dentist. Dr José A Pitarque (Map p82; %226-8173; Centro Meditropoli, office 211) English-speaking ophthalmologist. Dr Silvia Altamirano (%244-4119; Av Amazonas 2689 & Av de la República) Orthodontist and dentist; excellent. Near Parque La Carolina. Fybeca new town (Map pp88-9; %222-4263; Av 6 de Deciembre 2077); old town (Map p86; %228-2281; Guayaquil N9-01) Pharmacy Hospital Metropolitano (Map p82; %226-1520, 226-9030, emergency %226-5020; Mariana de Jesús & Av Occidental) The best hospital in town.
You can mail a package up to 2kg from any post office. Packages exceeding 2kg must be mailed from the branch post office (Map p90; %2508890; cnr Av Cristóbal Colón & Reina Victoria) in the Mariscal or from the parcel post office (see below). Central post office (Map p86; %228-2175; Espejo
935) In the old town; this is where you pick up your lista de correos (general delivery) mail. See p385 for more information. DHL (Map pp88-9; %290-1505; Av Colón 1333 at Foch; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) Parcel post office (Map pp88-9; %252-1730; Ulloa 273) If you are mailing a package over 2kg, use this post office, near Dávalos.
which some cafés. Andinatel Mera (Map p90. %290-9209. new town (Map pp88-9. h9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Private company offering FedEx. particularly if you wish to make an insurance claim.saexplorers. The steps of García Moreno. amid all the hustle and bustle of the city’s colorful civic life. near Calama) The main office is in the new town. chapels and monasteries are cast in legend and steeped in history. restaurants and nightlife. %330-0163. UPS and other international courier services. has been cleaned up and is now safe as late as 10pm during the week and until SIGHTS Justly. %250-6650/1/2. once more dangerous than the Mariscal. Although the neighborhood has seen some improvement in recent years. old town (Map p86. Travel Agencies Ecuadorian Tours (Map p90. %256-0488. to noon Sat) For more information on this travelers’ organization. h9am-8pm Mon-Sat. h9:30am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri. with an impressive array of churches. Washington 311 & Plaza Gutiérrez. For alleviating symptoms. some swear by the benefits of te de coca (coca-leaf tea). full of yelling street vendors. Cordero btwn Diego de Almagro & Reina Victoria. see p388. with continued reports of muggings. though the city’s dangers can largely be avoided by taking a few precautions. eat light and lay off the smokes and alcohol. have on hand. www.lonelyplanet. are potentially dangerous. The trolley system is plagued with pickpockets – keep an eye out while riding. east of Plaza San Francisco or north of the Church of La Merced.ecuadoriantours. cnr Venezuela & Espejo. to 6pm Thu. heading from Ambato to the top of El Panecillo. Mera 741 at Baquedano). Benalcázar btwn Mejia & Chile). %290 2756. Sunday.com. If you get robbed. a selection of handicrafts is on sale.metropolitan-touring. www. Built centuries ago by indigenous artisans and laborers. convents. is well worth visiting. do not stray south of Plaza Santo Domingo. Plaza Grande. DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Quito has its share of robberies and petty crime. cnr Av Amazonas & María.ec).com QUITO •• Dangers & Annoyances 79 ‘PostOffice’ (Map pp88-9. www. Quito’s churches. %228-1904. and avoid taking it during rush hour. The area with the most hotels. all-purpose travel agency near Washington. cnr Reina Victoria & Roca).quito. belching buses and . ambling pedestrians. It’s well lit and the city has taken a keen interest in keeping it safe. but it remains a target for muggers and pickpockets. old town (Map p86. Av Amazonas N20-39 near 18 de Septiembre) Ecuador’s biggest travel agency. 10am-6pm Sun) The old-town branch is well located and helpful for general questions. Quito’s Centro Histórico (aka the old town) is a marvel to wander. %222-5228. %261 2112. take things easy upon arrival. The old town. is also a dodgy time to wander the empty streets of the Mariscal. Metropolitan Touring (Map p90. old town (Map p86. To minimize symptoms. QUITO ANDEAN HIGH Did the hotel stairs make you breathless? Is your head spinning or achy? Having trouble sleeping? If so. Tourist Office (Corporación Metropolitana de Turismo. file a police report at the police station Mariscal (Map p90. It’s a bustling area. h9am-5pm Mon-Fri). it’s still wise to take a taxi after about 9pm – even if you have only a few blocks to walk. Old Town With its narrow streets.com. Telephone For international calls. it’s much cheaper to call from an internet café (p77). tooting taxis. Map pp88-9.com. Tourist Information South American Explorers (SAE. when no one else is around. which will disappear after a day or two. Take a taxi to the top and flag another to return. Quito’s old town deserves much attention: it’s one of the most spectacular colonial centers in the Americas. After dark. Eloy Alfaro 333 near 9 de Octubre). Av Amazonas 329) This is a good. the Mariscal Sucre. www . Quito’s elevation of about 2850m can certainly have this effect if you’ve just arrived from sea level. directions and maps. Reina Victoria (Map p90. restored colonial architecture and lively plazas. %297-7100. Mariscal Map p90. %255-1566. around midnight on Friday and Saturday. you’re probably suffering the mild symptoms of altitude sickness. cnr Mideros & Cuenca) between 9am and noon. There’s also a branch at Museo del Banco Central (see p87). airport Map p82.org. historic squares and intriguing museums. such as Tianguez (p103).
The pair sings in both Spanish and English.’ I’d never heard anything like it – that mix of Spanish and English. rock and reggae. %295-0272. with Christ and disciples feasting on cuy (roast guinea pig).com. PLAZA GRANDE 4pm Mon-Sat. an intriguing museum. The Nativity painting includes a llama and a horse peering over the newborn Jesus. whistle-blowing policemen trying to direct traffic in the narrow one-way streets. Behind the main altar is a plaque showing where President Gabriel García Moreno died on August 6. beatbox. My cousin told me about this gringo rapping really fast – in English. first met back in 2006. Map p86. h9am-5pm Tue-Sun. is the Palacio del Gobierno (Presidential Palace. On Monday. Map p86.centrocultural-quito. combining traditional Ecuadorian sounds such as pasillo (a kind of romantic guitarbased music) with a dizzying blend of hip-hop. Chile) is now a colonnaded row of small shops and restaurants. located between García Moreno and Venezuela. which offer a glimpse of the brilliantly hued mosaic depicting Francisco de Orellana’s descent of the Amazon. so sightseeing is limited to rooms not currently in use. The two formed Esto Es Eso. Although not The heart of the old town is the Plaza Grande (Map p86. they created a new genre of music called pasillo-hop. The area is magical and one in which the more you look. the more you find. You’ll also see the ornate tomb of Mariscal Sucre. the changing of the guards takes place on the plaza at 11am. Admission includes a free guided tour in Spanish. Sorry. formally known as Plaza de la Independencia). the outstanding Centro Cultural Metropolitano (Map p86. García Moreno. 2. Luís: ‘But we’re not jamming. In the process of playful experimentation. The most amazing thing that happened to me – aside from the birth of my daughter. He came to my studio. Don’t miss the painting of the Last Supper. and the group has been featured in Rolling Stone’s Latin edition. an expat from Los Angeles. You’ll also peer in a few of the staterooms. its interior has some fascinating religious works from artists of the Quito School (see p43). patio to 7:30pm) houses several temporary art exhibits. to the cathedral. They regularly close between 1pm and 3pm for lunch. a picturesque. admission $1.30am. He was slashed with a machete outside the Palacio del Gobierno and was carried.80 QUITO •• Sights lonelyplanet. Just off the plaza. . and we started jamming. Max: He had a song in Spanish called ‘Mala’. 11. Bring him to me. www . It was amazing to share this experience. I had some lyrics in my head. dying. The austere.’ he told me. Three of Esto Es Eso’s singles have been smash hits on Ecuadorian radio. The president carries out business in this building. chicha (a fermented corn drink) and humitas (similar to tamales). California. On the northeast side of the plaza. reaching a core of Spanish-speaking Anglophiles and English-speaking Latinos stretching from South America to the United States. Visitors can enter by guided tours (in Spanish and sometimes English). two rooftop terraces and a pleasant café on the interior patio. Max [laughs]. I said [laughs]. we’re creating a movement. 1pm. services 7am Sat & Sun). I wanted to find an international sound. hguided tours 10am. How did you two meet? Luís: I was making this album.30pm & 4pm). admission free. the leading figure of Quito’s independence. the Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop’s Palace. Shocking really. and he started doing what he does really good.’ I told Max. ‘maybe you could rap over that.com QUITO THE HOT NEW SOUND FROM ECUADOR When Luís Villamarín of Quito and Max Epstein.30am- the most ornate of the old town’s churches. ‘We’re about to create a Latin American bilingual musical movement. h9. cnr García Moreno & Espejo. Churches are open every day (usually until 6pm) but are crowded with worshippers on Sunday. little did the pair realize they were on the verge of something big. with the national flag flying atop. On the plaza’s southwest side stands Quito’s cathedral (Map p86. 1875.50. white building on the plaza’s northwest side (between Chile and Espejo). palmfringed square surrounded by historic buildings.
h7am-noon & 2-5pm). the only unblessed part of the church. High on a hill in the northeastern part of the old town stands the Gothic Basílica del Voto Nacional (Map p86. Supposedly the only person strong enough to resist the devil was a black bell-ringer named Ceferino. cnr Venezuela & Carchi. Some of the pair’s favorite nightspots in Quito: Pobre Diablo (p109) Good. My father used to play that a lot – and Pink Floyd. It has criteria about who plays here. Myth aside. inside a beautifully restored colonial home. h 9am-5pm). Plays ’70s hits and DJs.com QUITO •• Sights 81 QUITO What are some of your musical influences? Luís: My heart says that romantic songs from Ecuador – pasillo – this is the greatest music in the world. and his paintings of indigenous people – idealistic as they are – are stunning. h9am-4. admission $0. and no one has dared enter the tower since he died in 1810. Egas was Ecuador’s first indigenista (indigenous movement) painter. which you can climb if you have the nerve – the . Great latenight parties. Mejía Oe6-132. The museum was closed indefinitely for restoration at time of research. cnr Esmeraldas.lonelyplanet. during the Founding of Ecuador holiday (First Shout of Independence.50. La Merced has a wealth of fascinating art including paintings that show volcanoes erupting over the church roofs of colonial Quito and the capital covered with ashes. Several blocks east. built over several decades beginning in 1926. The best place for jazz. cnr Cuenca). That was maybe our most epic show. turtles and iguanas protrude from the church’s side. the museum houses what many consider to be Ecuador’s best collection of colonial art. supposedly the pre-Hispanic site of one of Atahualpa’s palaces. What’s next for Esto es Eso? Luís: I have a feeling in my heart. There are a lot of talented guys doing amazing things. royalist forces held a group of revolutionaries here and gruesomely murdered them a year later. In a restored 17th-century building. it became a cuartel (army barracks) after their expulsion in the late 1700s. Very representative of Quito. Hence the clock stands still and the bell hangs unrung. At 47m. Cool owner plays popular American hits.30pm Tue-Sun). Ananké (p108) Hosts lesser-known jazz or funk bands. the mix of people. There must have been 10. The highlight is the basilica’s towers. Get a glimpse of Quito’s early colonial history (and some rather lifelike wax figures) in the on-site Museo Alberto Mena Caamaño (admission $1. 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) houses a small but iconic Two blocks northwest of the Plaza Grande. cnr Cuenca & Chile. is rich in history. playing something different. Max: We just want to go around the world making music. Manuel Chili (the indigenous artist known as Caspicara) and Bernardo de Legarda.000 people in the audience. What has been your favorite? Max: Our best show was probably playing in the Plaza de San Francisco. In 1809. %221-2297. Legend has it that the tower. its tower is the highest in colonial Quito. which you can wander freely. El Aguijón (p109) Good place for dancing and music. the Museo Camilo Egas (Map p86. You’ve played a number of shows around the country. Venezuela 1302. Gives young musicians a chance – particularly on Wednesday and Thursday. collection of painter Camilo Egas’ work.50. The doors of the music world are closed right now for Ecuadorian musicians. We’re trying to open them. Rather than gargoyles. admission free. cutting-edge music.30am-5pm Tue-Fri. NORTH OF PLAZA GRANDE One block to the northeast is the excellent Museo de Arte Colonial (Map p86. % 257-2012. you’ll find La Merced (Map p86. I would like to be a part of this amazing movement. On display are famous sculptures and paintings of the Quito School including the works of Miguel de Santiago. The beautifully restored building. Blues (p109) One of the only places in town open late. h 9. on August 10). however. constructed between 1700 and 1742. %258-3891. tower admission $2. A Jesuit school from 1597 to 1767. is possessed by the devil.
............................... Otavalo (170km) l Eloy Alfaro Av Genera D Av De La 1 Base Aérea Prensa 14 Aeropuerto nas Amazo Av obus Metr Av 6 d e Dicie mbre Av 10 de Agosto La Florida Aeropuerto Mariscal Sucre 2 De Los Shyris Brasil lengua 3 Juan Villa Mañosca 12 3 TRANSPORT Airport Terminal...............9 Quasar Nautica...(see 14) Budget............10 telefériQo...............................com QUITO METROPOLITAN QUITO A INFORMATION Centro Meditropoli..................................................... Cayambe (55km)..82 QUITO •• Metropolitan Quito lonelyplanet..............................................5km)........(see 2) Dr José A Pitarque.4 C3 Producambios......................................(see 2) German Embassy..............13 C3 Centro Comercial Quicentro.........................................................................3 C3 MasterCard.......................(see 14) UK Embassy..(see 2) Clínica de la Mujer...................7 Monastery of San Diego.... Latacunga (87km) Estación El Recreo Av Sim ón Bolí var Na Villaflora po Av de Los Lib ado r e rt Av General Rumiña es hui .........................................5 C3 Visa.(see 13) La Y 9 Estación Norte 6 Río Coca Río Coca Jipijapa Los Sauces azonas Av Gen A5 A5 C2 C3 B4 E Carvajal a Inc El Av eral El oy A La Concepción lfar o Ant onio Jos é de Suc Orell La Paz ana Colón Orellana Coló Santa n Clara Baca Ortiz Mariscal v 6 de A Manuela Cañizares Galo Plaza a Casa de ví la Cultura co nta ccide re (Av O 15 as mer De Las Pal l) Av de los Granados R La De Av a blic epú To Oriente Rí o h á n g ar a M ac See New Town Map (pp88–9) Av Mar isca lA nt on io sé Jo de Suc 6 Av A lo de ns o Ang ulo To Quitumbe Bus Terminal (3..............8 Plaza de Toros..6 C2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES La Cima de la Libertad............... B3 2 Hospital Voz Andes.............................(see 14) Ecuacar..........1 C3 Dr Alfredo Jijon........................11 0 0 To Hostería San Jorge (6km) Vaca de Castro Av Mariscal 2 km 1 mile B To La Mitad del Mundo (17km) C Tufiño To new Airport (20km)...............................15 C2 Localiza.......(see 14) La Carolina 2 San Gabriel a Ma alp de riana hu Floron Jesú Ata s Mariana de Jesús t ro b 24 de Estadio 4 Mayo Nacio nes U 5 nidas 13 República de Benalcazar El Salvador Eloy Alfaro Bellavista San Martin Eco vía Cuero y Caicedo le Tro us Av La G 4 Universidad Central Av Am érica Av Universitaria Ejido E tal) re ( Av O ccide n See Old Town Map (p86) Recoleta Machangara Colina Chimbacalle Train Station Cardinal de la Torre Av Av Ve 5 8 las c o Ib arra 7 La Alameda Banco Central Teatro Sucre Hermano Plaza Miguel Grande La Santo Marin Domingo Cumandá Eugenio Espejo Di cie mb re asca Seminariio Mayor Me 11 Ecovía SHOPPING Centro Comercial Iñaquito..............................................(see 2) Dr Jorge Cobo Avedaño.....................12 C3 Multicines...........(see 5) Hospital Metropolitano...(see 14) Icaro..........................(see 5) 10 Trole 1 Gaspar de Vill arroel La Y (Iñaquito) A v Am ENTERTAINMENT Cinemark.........14 C1 Avis....................(see 14) Hertz............................
elixirs and more). EAST OF PLAZA GRANDE QUITO La Ronda One of the most recent areas to undergo restoration in the old town is the handsome street known as ‘La Ronda’ (Map p86). secret underground tunnels connect Santa Catalina to the church of Santo Domingo three blocks away.50. you’ll get a shot of the nun’s rather tasty wine. admission free) is another fine example of 17thcentury architecture. capped by green- monastery that opened to the public in 2005.lonelyplanet. Back on Calle García Moreno. you’ll find the Casa Museo María Augusta Urrutía (Map p86. the former home of Mariscal Antonio José de Sucre. a fully functioning convent and Mon-Fri. Due south of San Agustín stands the Monastery of Santa Catalina (Map p86. wine. A free tour (in Spanish) of the monastery’s museum takes in 18th-century religious paintings. The marvelously gilded Jesuit church was begun in 1605 and not completed for another 160 years. h10am-5. is the tiny Plaza del Teatro. is Ecuador’s most ornate church. CALLES GARCÍA MORENO & SUCRE Beside the cathedral on García Moreno stands the 17th-century Church of El Sagrario (Map p86. Many of the heroes of the battles for Ecuador’s independence are buried here. Free guided tours in English or Spanish highlight the church’s unique features including its Moorish elements. %295-2860. this is the one not to miss: it’s a splendidly preserved. La Compañía de Jesús (Map p86. to 4. García Moreno. with placards along the walls describing (in Spanish) some of the street’s history and the artists. entering nuns have spent five cloistered years in solitary cells. Further northeast. where you’ll find the exquisitely restored Teatro Sucre (p109). European artwork and a lush courtyard. María Augusta Urrutía. the 21 nuns inside have only one hour to talk to each other or watch TV. originally intended as the main chapel of the cathedral but now a separate church. admission $2. h9:30am-5. writers and political figures who once resided here.30pm Tue-Sun). Supposedly. h 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri. admission free. and it is the site of the signing of Ecuador’s declaration of independence on August 10. stainedglass windows. some of which are downright gruesome. This narrow lane is lined with picture-book 17thcentury buildings. perfect symmetry (right down to the trompe l’oeil staircase at the rear). when canelazo (aguardiente – sugarcane alcohol – with hot cider and cinnamon) vendors keep everyone nice and cozy and live music spills out of restaurant windows.30pm Mon-Fri.30pm and-gold domes visible from Plaza San Francisco one block away. Quiteños proudly call it the most beautiful church in the country and it’s easy to see why. At the end of the tour. h9am-5. There’s a patio café just outside the church and a snack bar on the tower’s 4th floor.30pm Sat). though La Ronda remains a delightfully local and unpretentious affair. h 6amnoon & 3-6pm). Built in 1878. García Moreno N2-60. on Calle Sucre. Espejo 779 at Flores.30pm Sat) . A block-and-a-half southeast of La Compañía is the beautifully restored Casa de Sucre (Map p86. admission $1. Free guided tours are in Spanish and English. But they make all sorts of natural products (shampoos. it stages Quito’s best theater. A new crop of restaurants and shops has opened in recent years. once the home of the city’s best-loved philanthropist. 10am-5. Two blocks from the Plaza Grande. cnr Venezuela 573 & Sucre. hand cream. 19th-century house. Since its founding in 1592. the hero of Ecuadorian independence. and sprinkled with period furnishings. . symbolic elements (bright-red walls a reminder of Christ’s blood) and its syncretism (Ecuadorian plants and indigenous faces hidden along the pillars). to 12:30pm Sat). 1809. the Monastery of San Agustín (Map p86. admission $2.com QUITO •• Sights 83 ascent requires crossing a rickety wooden plank inside the main roof and climbing steep stairs and ladders to the top. dance and music performances. at the junction of Calles Guayaquil and Manabí. Around the corner. To this day. and now a small museum full of early-19th-century furniture. You can also climb the spiral staircase and three sets of ladders into and above the clock tower. Of Quito’s house museums. admission $1. %258-0107. just southwest of Calle Sucre. Chile & Guayaquil. which you can purchase from a rotating door that keeps the nuns hidden. The street is at its liveliest on Friday and Saturday nights.
began only a few weeks after the founding of Quito in 1534. Inside this fully functioning convent. has Plaza Santo Domingo. which contains some of cupies the beautifully restored San Juan de Dios hospital (built in 1563. honey and bottles of full-strength mistela (anise-flavored liqueur). To the right of the main entrance is the Museo Franciscano (%295-2911. www. spans García Moreno. The main altar itself is a spectacular example of baroque carving.museociudadquito. An exquisite statue . www . h7-11am daily. in Spanish. 9am-noon Sun). lighting up the main altar. Guides are available in Spanish. On one side.84 QUITO •• Sights lonelyplanet. the Arco de la Reina (Map p86. The chapel of Señor Jesús del Gran Poder. and will explain how the light shines through the rear window during the solstices. Top picks include the limones desamargados (literally ‘de-soured lemons’). Purchase them through a revolving contraption. 1822. sculpture and 16th-century furniture. to the right of the main altar. 3-6pm Mon-Thu). or at the shop next door. admission $2. He duped the devil and saved his soul. where you can also buy traditional baked goods. aromatic waters for nerves and insomnia. Although much of the church has been rebuilt because of earthquake damage. He is commemorated by a statue at the far right of the raised terrace in front of the church. with displays including dioramas. The founder was the Franciscan missionary Joedco Ricke. García Moreno at Rocafuerte). The museum depicts Quito’s daily life through the centuries. Cuenca at Sucre.museofrancis cano. it functioned as a hospital until 1973).ec.gov. the original wooden floor was only recently replaced. which houses a small art collection from the Quito School. cnr Flores & Rocafuerte. h8am-4pm). credited with being the first man to sow wheat in Ecuador. but the building was not finished for another 70 years. cnr García Moreno & Rocafuerte. near the southwest end of Calle Guayaquil. and the long. model indigenous homes and colonial kitchens.com QUITO Further south. which keeps the nuns hidden. in Spanish. The plaza is beautiful in the evening. The admission fee includes a guided tour in English or Spanish. Some of the furniture is fantastically wrought and inlaid with thousands of pieces of mother-of-pearl. some is original. They’ll also demonstrate an odd confessional technique. Crowds of neighborhood quiteños fill the plaza to watch pouting clowns and halfcocked magicians do their stuff. h9:30am-5:30pm Tue-Sun) oc- original tile work. cloistered nuns stay busy producing some of Quito’s tastiest traditional sweets. On the other side of the arch stands the Monasterio de Carmen Alto (Map p86. %228-2320. French or German ($4). A fabulous Gothiclike altar dominates the inside of the church. who supposedly sold his soul so the devil would help him complete the church on time. the city’s largest colonial structure. In front of the church stands a statue of Mariscal Sucre. depicting the marshal pointing toward La Cima de la Libertad (opposite). while much of the roof shows Moorish influences. %295-3643. where two people standing in separate corners can hear each other while whispering into the walls. the Museo de la Ciudad (Map p86. English. PLAZA & CHURCH OF SANTO DOMINGO Construction of the monastery. h7am-1pm & 4:30-7:30pm). It’s also shrouded in one of Quito’s most famous legends. whitewashed walls and twin bell towers of Ecuador’s oldest church. meaning the church was never completed. where he won the decisive battle for independence on May 24. made by hollowing out tiny lemons and filling them with a sweetened-milk concoction. admission free. Cantuña removed a single stone from the structure. are floodlit. when the domes of the 17th-century Church of Santo Domingo (Map p86. bee pollen. is a regular haunt for street performers. admission free. h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat. on the southeast side of the plaza. But just before midnight of the day of his deadline. that of the indigenous builder Cantuña. admission $2. the (Map p86. the church’s finest artwork including paintings. PLAZA & MONASTERY OF SAN FRANCISCO Walking from the old town’s narrow colonial streets into the open Plaza San Francisco reveals one of the finest sights in all of Ecuador: a sweeping cobblestone plaza backed by the mountainous backdrop of Volcán Pichincha. cnr García Moreno & Rocafuerte. a massive arch built in the 18th century to give shelter to churchgoers.com. Good guides will point out mudejar (Moorish) representations of the eight planets revolving around the sun in the ceiling. To the left of the monastery stands the Capilla de Cantuña (Cantuña Chapel).
It’s the perfect spot to spread out a picnic lunch. a large glass-andiron building. angelic wings and a chained dragon atop the world. Once you’re at the top (a mere 4100m). titled Passage from this Life to Eternity: no one can explain how it got here. Buses signed ‘Pintado’ go here from the Centro Histórico. %228-8733. The park’s centerpiece is the Centro Cultural Itchimbia (Map p86. ever-present hill to the south of the old town is called El Panecillo (the Little Bread Loaf) and is a major Quito landmark. From the summit.lonelyplanet. To get here. soak up the sun and take in the unobstructed 360-degree views. h8:30am-4:30pm takes passengers on a 2. EL PANECILLO Tue-Fri. although it’s recited with the enthusiasm of a mass in Latin. %295-0272). There’s also a fascinating 18th-century painting by Miguel de Santiago of the Last Supper. when the views here are best. Quiteños proudly claim she is the only Madonna in the world depicted with wings. On weekends the wait can be long and tedious. This monument was QUITO The small. There are outstanding works from both the Quito and Cusco schools including one of Quito’s finest pulpits. either take a taxi (about $3 from the Mariscal) or take one of the telefériQo shuttles ($1). . or you can walk up (east) Elizalde. adult/ express lane $4/7. Av de los Libertadores s/n. %250-0900. you can hike to the summit of Rucu Pichincha (4680m). this grassy park boasts magnificent views of the city. which. see p93 and p118.com QUITO •• Sights 85 of the Virgen del Rosario. Construction of the church began in 1581 and continued until 1650. and you can hail one at the top for the trip back to town. a gift from King Charles V of Spain and one of the church’s main showpieces. the Río Coca stop of the Ecovía line and Plaza La Marín parking area in the old town. from where signed stairways lead to the park. At the end of the tour. that hosts regular art exhibits and cultural events. you can climb narrow stairs to the bell tower and walk along the rooftop. a multimillion-dollar sky tram that walls above the old town. before the clouds roll in. h9. The best way here is by taxi. The park has cycling paths and walking paths too.5km ride up the flanks of Volcán Pichincha to the top of Cruz Loma. LA CIMA DE LA LIBERTAD Further up the flanks of Volcán Pichincha. which depart about every 30 minutes from the Trole’s Estación Norte stop. one of the finest views of the city can be had from La Cima de la Libertad (Map p82. which hangs above the building. this beautiful 17thcentury monastery (Map p82. or (even better) come on a weekday. Av Occidental near Av La Gasca. carved by the notable indigenous woodcarver Juan Bautista Menacho. It is topped by a huge statue of La Virgen de Quito (Virgin of Quito). h9:30am-12:30pm & 2:305:30pm) sits in a quiet courtyard behind thick High on a hill east of the old town. which was led by Mariscal Antonio José de Sucre on May 24. Try to visit in the morning. TelefériQo For spectacular views over Quito’s mountainous landscape. Definitely don’t climb the stairs at the end of Calle García Moreno on the way to the statue – they’re unsafe due to muggings. admission $1. the decisive battle in the struggle for independence from Spain.45am-9pm Mon-Thu. with a crown of stars. 9am-1:30pm Sat & Sun). Don’t miss the tiled mural by Eduardo Kingman. The only way inside is by tour. 1822. Don’t attempt the hike to Rucu Pichincha until you’ve acclimatized in Quito for a couple days. built at the site of the Batalla de Pichincha (Battle of Pichincha). either pay the $7 express-line fee. There is also a rather soporific military museum housing a collection of military artifacts and a shrine to an unknown soldier. A taxi from the old town costs about $4. the clouds usually roll in by noon. an approximately three-hour hike for fit walkers. Calicuchima 117 & Farfán. hop aboard the telefériQo (Map p82. %295-4026. resides in an ornately carved. baroquestyle side chapel. there are marvelous views of the sprawling city and the surrounding volcanoes. modeled after the city’s original Mercado Santa Clara. The oddest piece of work here is an unidentified painting by Hieronymus Bosch. PARQUE ITCHIMBIA Around the Old Town MONASTERY OF SAN DIEGO Northwest of El Panecillo. 9am-midnight Fri & Sat). is worth suffering through to see the wealth of colonial art inside. admission $2. The best time for volcano views (particularly in the rainy season) is early morning.
....................69 D2 Pizza SA.........73 B2 Lo ja La Am ur ba to te er fu ca Ro ón nt Po Ag oy án va Maldonado Pie dra le Mora s ........................18 C2 La Compañía de Jesús............(see 46) Las Cuevas de Luís Candela....66 B3 Mea Culpa......2km) eric l ra ne El Ge Panecillo 5d eJ un io 5 Av INFORMATION Andinatel.45 46 La Posada Colonial (Midrange)..58 B3 Govindas..............(see 30) Heladería San Agustín....................6 B2 Tourist Information Kiosk...41 Hotel Real Audiencia....27 C2 Museo de Arte Colonial.............22 A4 on ad o M ald Monasterio de Carmen Alto........................................................................29 A3 Museo de San Agustín...............68 C3 Pim's...............................................(see 30) Café del Teatro.......35 Hostal La Casona....2 miles B San Juan Ca rc C Ant Ve ne zu ela D e yo na lcá 1 za 10 o en M or Santa Prisca El Te Im ba bu ra Cu en ca ó JL Co el to Tr pe ol z pa xi igu e an oM e Ga He rm nt rc jar Gonzalez Suarez rie ía O Ga láp ag os Lu is Va rg as To rre s Iba rra Banco Central 28 Ch ile M See New Town Map (pp88–9) an ab í Banco Central 54 ela 20 1 64 62 M ejí a zo Ch im bo ra Im fa fu er te La Tola La Marín Los R ca León M Ro 66 Plaza 74 65 Bo 12 11 La Marín lív o 26 57 ar 43 Esp 39 Pic To Monastery Ro ejo hi Chile 23 ca 42 of San Diego 9 fu er (500m) Jua te Ju Plaza nd 29 nin 3 Barahona eD Santo Santo Pe ios 21 Domingo Domingo reir ez Mo 35 qu a rale San Marcos Su ara s (L 17 cr eC a Ro e ía d nda 68 ah ) B Lo sM ila gr os To El Trébol (1km) en Tex cio eir Silv a a 45 rc Gu Flo r es ía M ay M de ay aq u or 24 en Av 30 Plaza Grande 2 15 32 8 18 72 13 Su 19 Plaza 24 Plaza San 76 cr 16 Grande 63 51 e 56 44 Francisco 55 4 58 61 52 71 78 25 íos Av on 67 tú Pi lív ar 6 31 7 60 36 Valpara is Manue o Samanie l go Tr ch r Bo ol in ile 47 ba 73 e ch Ch bu 46 Ec o 2 ra vía Ve ro s 41 53 ne zu M ide Ol me do 33 59 Esm 27 era lda Av 10 de Ag os to ho hi La Alameda r Parque La Alameda 34 vía Eco ño ice Br Be 5 s 38 Teatro 40 G Sucre 49 3 Plaza del 75 Teatro aq uay uil Plaza Cald as San Blas An San Blas tep Hermano ara 37 Miguel 70 48 a Cald as ic Br o eñ Eli za ld e Parque Itchimbia 69 14 Bustamante Olm 50 edo o il La Posada Colonial (Budget)........61 B3 La Colmena............62 B2 La Guaragua....................................(see 75) Tianguez.................44 M elc h or c h Rí o an ga Aym ra orr e Fe Qu rn an 4 ija no 77 de vie r z M ad ón Na rid Ra Cumandá m Pa Sa Ma a los M Car ría d e 6 C3 C2 D2 B2 B3 C2 B2 B3 B3 C2 ENTERTAINMENT Teatro Bolívar...52 B3 Cafetería Modelo II.................11 B3 Casa Museo María Augusta Urrutía.......................72 A2 Vista Hermosa....7 B2 Tourist Office............................................(see 67) Concepción El Buen Sandwich....26 B3 Museo Camilo Egas.......(see 41) Homero Ortega P & Hijos........ 75 C2 Vox Populi...............................(see 30) Net El Police Station............................ Señor.................1 B2 Banco del Pacífico................(see 30) Mercado Central.........................16 B2 Church of Santo Domingo.................59 C2 Hasta La Vuelta...........23 A3 Monastery of San Agustín........................4 B3 Fybeca.com QUITO OLD TOWN A El Tejar Ce bo lla r Ba ba 0 0 400 m 0....(see 15) El Cafeto........20 B2 La Ronda....................................55 B3 El Buho.......................28 B2 Museo de la Ciudad......56 C2 El Kukurucho del Maní...............................47 Secret Garden.(see 24) Museo Franciscano...................................................................17 B3 Krishna Center.....40 Hotel Patio Andaluz................(see 58) SHOPPING Folklore Olga Fisch...................19 B2 La Merced...................................................24 B2 Monastery of San Francisco........74 B3 Teatro Sucre.......15 B2 Church of El Sagrario..........................70 D2 Restaurante Vegetariano Ari..........................................49 C2 Café Mosaico..........12 B3 Cathedral...21 A3 La Virgen de Quito.............42 Hotel San Francisco de Quito....... 48 B4 B2 B2 D2 Av Ga Trole M on do r lva re de s Ja El Panecillo 22 Yavirac To Quito Train Station (1.......33 C2 Simón Bolívar Monument..............................................67 C2 Octava de Corpus..........14 D2 Centro Cultural Metropolitano.......39 Hotel Internacional Plaza del Teatro.......36 Hostal San Blas.......77 B4 Train Ticket Office..9 A3 Basílica del Voto Nacional............................8 B2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Arco de la Reina...........53 B2 Casa San Lucas..............................................................30 B2 Palacio del Gobierno.......................................63 B3 La Posada Colonial ...31 B2 Plaza Grande (Playa de la 32 Independencia).....5 C2 PapayaSenaOld Town....................65 A3 Magda..........................................................38 Hotel Flores...........34 D1 SLEEPING Casa San Marcos........64 B2 Los Cebiches de la Rumiñahui........(see 63) Pollos San Blas....76 A2 TRANSPORT Cumandá Bus Terminal.....54 C2 Corvina Don 'Jimmy'......57 A3 Frutería Monserrate.....................................................86 QUITO •• Old Town lonelyplanet...................................................... B2 Quito Antiguo Spanish School.................................................................. 78 A3 Chimbacalle la T Los Río tú fa r s ha nc EATING Tola Baja Café del Fraile....................10 C1 Machangara Casa de Sucre...............(see 25) Palacio Arzobispal....(see 59) La Cascada...3 C2 Recoleta Central Post Office...13 B2 Colina Centro Cultural Itchimbia..37 Hotel El Relicario del Carmen.......................25 A2 Monastery of Santa Catalina..........43 Hotel Viena Internacional......................... Plaza Grande...............................................................................................60 B2 Jugos de la Sucre..........(see 41) Theatrum...........2 B2 Banco del Pichincha...............51 B2 Cafetería Modelo.................. 50 D2 Cafetería Fabiolita.............71 B3 Rincón de Cantuña..............................................
a popular spot for impromptu games of soccer and volleyball. h8am-noon & 3-5pm MonFri. Upstairs. guesthouses. AVENIDA AMAZONAS QUITO Located across from Parque El Ejido. the pleasant. modern and 19th-century Ecuadorian art. Montalvo near Av 6 de Diciembre). among other magnificent pre-Hispanic gold pieces.000 BC to AD 1534.’ as some refer to the Mariscal Sucre. This is modern Quito’s showpiece street.lonelyplanet. It opens for stargazing on only the clearest nights – call ahead to confirm if the weather looks promising. h9am5pm Tue-Fri. glass-plated. Nearby. MARISCAL SUCRE & AROUND ‘Gringolandia. CASA DE LA CULTURA ECUATORIANA with the Valdivia culture (Ecuador’s first settled agriculturalists) and ends with the Inca. ‘coin axes’ from the Milagro-Quevedo culture and the famous ceremonial stone chairs of the Manteños. from beautifully displayed pre-Hispanic and colonial religious art to 20th-century paintings and sculpture. the Museo del Banco Central (Map pp88-9. The mazelike exhibit begins with arrowheads from Ecuador’s first nomadic hunter-gatherers. Finally. .com QUITO •• Sights 87 New Town PARQUES LA ALAMEDA & EL EJIDO From the northeast edge of the old town. banks and restaurants. opened by President García Moreno in 1864. then continues A solitary stone archway at the north end of Parque El Ejido marks the beginning of Avenida Amazona. The north end of the park teems with activity on weekends. newspapers. There’s plenty of room for pedestrians. an auditorium and one of the country’s most important museums. %257-0765. ceramic representations of tzantzas (shrunken heads). Northeast of La Alameda. rolling as far north as the airport. golden sun mask that is the symbol of the Banco Central. the long. and the outdoor restaurants near the intersection of Vicente Ramón Roca are favorite spots to enjoy espresso. The exhibits include canvases by some of Ecuador’s most famous artists including the likes of Oswaldo Guayasamín. the Sala de Arte Colonial (Colonial Art Room) showcases masterful works from the Quito School of Art including several pieces by Ecuador’s most famous indigenous sculptor Manuel Chili (Caspicara). admission $2. is the oldest observatory on the continent. this circular. when open-air art shows are held along Avenida Patria. 10am-4pm Sat & Sun). %222-3258. wild Asian-looking serpent bowls from the Jama-Coaque. the Quito Observatory (Map pp88-9. where moody tribal music drones over a marvelous display of more than 1000 ceramic pieces dating from 12. toward the middle of the park are statues of the members of the 1736– 44 French Académie des Sciences expedition that surveyed Ecuador and made the equatorial measurements that gave rise to the metric system. A walk through the museum usually begins in the Sala de Arqueología. artisans and crafts vendors set up stalls and turn the sidewalks into Quito’s largest handicrafts market. travel agencies. Between Parque Alameda and Parque El Ejido is the legislative palace (Map pp88-9. It showcases the country’s largest collection of Ecuadorian art. It’s the main artery of the Mariscal Sucre area. triangular Parque La Alameda begins its grassy crawl toward the new town. Eduardo Kingman and Camilo Egas. displays the radiating. lined with modern hotels. restaurants and souvenir shops. The second room is the Sala de Oro (Gold Room). cnr Av Patria & Av 12 de Octubre. Two worthwhile museums are located just south of the Mariscal. the equivalent of the houses of parliament or congress. with scores of tour agencies. admission $1. 8am-noon Sat). En route are magnificent pieces including ‘whistle bottles’ from the Chorrea culture. although the strip with which you’re likely to become most familiar lies between Parque El Ejido and the busy Avenida Cristóbal Colón. A huge frieze depicting the history of Ecuador spans the north side of the building. tree-filled Parque El Ejido is the biggest park in downtown Quito. the Sala de Arte Contemporáneo (Contemporary Art Room) boasts a large collection of contemporary. Ecuador’s national beer. At the southern apex of the park stands the Simón Bolívar monument. Just inside the north end of the park. figures showing skull deformation practiced by the Machalilla culture. sandwiches and ice-cold Pilsener. which. is the epicenter of Quito’s tourist infrastructure. souvenir stores. landmark building houses a movie theater.
.22 C5 Seminario Fundación Golondrinas...... 20 H2 To Toa Bed & Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana..88 QUITO •• New Town lonelyplanet......................................6 F4 yC alc edo DHL......................29 C5 71 Quasar Nautica.... F1 La Gasca 19 Capilla del Hombre.....................com QUITO NEW TOWN Av Am érica A B C D lpa ua tah 1 Car Av A Cas 2 CR uíz nde INFORMATION Abya Yala Bookstore......................10 E4 Se sC lva asa Instituto Geográfico Militar... 18 C5 Bike Stop........................5 F3 Cu ero Centro Cultural Mexicano..27 E3 alos 13 Museo Guayasamín..... 17 D3 vaja l de FG To Aeropuerte Mariscal Sucre (6km) ay Azu Floron a mb Rumip a A Av rra late Ing 82 Ma Me trob us rian ad e Je sús Mariana de Jesús Ma rian a de Jesú Ing late rra Ale man ia Itali a s T ro le mé rica Cuero y Caicedo tilla Vanc ouve r de 4 Av y Elo z Ve rsa lle 3 Oc tub re 4 érica SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Alta Montaña.....................30 G1 JC arrió Quito Observatory... 15 C5 mb ntín ert Tourist Office..........(see 8) riel Canadian Embassy. E1 7 Ba Dutch Embassy.....................................................................................................13 B3 PostOffice........ 33 G3 G re gor Statue of FranciscoAde Orellana........34 F4 Universidad io m Tropic Ecological Adventures. 32 D6 sita Sa n Sanctuary of El Guápulo..................................... 11 D6 Ale s gre Paldeia Books................................... 4 D2 Sa n Ga b Banco del Pacífico.......25 E5 rca dillo Museo Amazónico........................................ 3 D2 Asociación Humboldt....31 B6 n niverAv Uria Rocódromo....35 E3 er Central o 36 Vivarium................. 1 D5 2 Alianza Francesa........................................................... C5 Breakfast (1km) 21 Compañía de Guías de Montaña. E1 s obu Metr Boliv ia Av A m Ullo Tor ibo La Pradera 3M Ac o sta a s Mé Ago sto Colegio Militar de Javie Av 10 r As Orella cázu bi na 76 La P inta Colón Tro le Colón Av Co rde Cris tob Mo ran al C Foch ro 17 91 14 90 43 Santa Clara See Mariscal Sucre Map (p90) ma s na zo ra Me Park Dá valo A Av s Mariscal Sucre ar r n JL Re ina Vic tor ia lm Vin áe z UP JC cen 18 d e J La 9d Larrea rrea Mariscal e te ión Ro ca g Die Av od Ra mó ro ag re mb icie eD 6d eA Septi e mbre Jor Portovie arre a jo ge FR W ob les ión ML Asu nc San ti ash ing ton 53 Av Pa tria Galo Plaza 58 22 18 15 45 38 Manuela Cañizares ía ov z Ec rre tié yo Gu ma za Ta Pla JL 66 75 57 O bre ctu ag o lina s Tro le Pan amä América la ezue co Can ada J Sa dos Cara cas Bog ota Rio B ue Unid o s 29 88 s ida 12 on Le a York Esta Méji uay 5 ragu Ven New Urug de Ja neir ires Ejido o Parque El Ejido Casa de la Cultura 44 12 de 1 MC aama ño Universidad Católica cía dalu An Nica nos A 81 Tarqui e ja br Bor m ie LF ic D de J Mo nta 6 lvo Av 24 Av J Rio Fe lici frío Parque El Arbolito 21 an oC he ca La La Floresta dr ón de Q See Old Town Map (p86) La Alameda rre s ue se r Guevara 39 51 54 32 liv ar Me El Belén Paz Y M or en Ve o ne zu ela Lu is Va rg as To r ata ía Ga rc Banco Central El iz al oz de a Valp o arais Av Lib e Es pin s Río Los La C on da Av Colo Eugenio Espejo NP Llon dor a VS o olan Vicentina mi ne mb ia 11 Sim ón 6 Santa Prisca Iba rra Parque La Alameda 31 Miño Eugenío Espejo Bo La oló n Santa M aría Polo nia Hung ria Alf aro Gr eci a o n an ilso ed lla W qu mi Ba inti r al e ne al V Ge ener G G ez Per Av Fo uer rero ch d as el L r di So dio hi uac Yag n Se ier gu es Bri ce ño as Cald Castro ...............(see 1) Miraflores 26 Museo de Ciencias Naturales..8 E4 rto lom French Embassy..........................................16 E2 rno z Western Union...........(see 49) Av Mayor LaG Jardín Botánico.....................(see 21) oA Park lbo Western Union......................... E1 Universidad Ma rch Museo del Banco Central.......(see 21) ena Central Museo Etnográfico de Artesanía 65 Dáv de Ecuador..23 E1 asc a Legislative Palace................. 28 G2 Nuevo Mundo Expeditions.................................. 24 C6 Me Montaña............................ F1 Andinatel........................... 14 D3 Jos éV Hu ale South American Explorers.......................................................................... 12 D5 Parcel Post Office.............................................................9 E3 ed e la Fybeca..................................................(see 17) Dr Silvia Altamirano.
.......(see 86) guil era 3 4 67 bre o en or M rid 49 is lav Ga 5 40 87 a 78 Lugo s SLEEPING Aleida's Hostal...........74 F4 Mirador de Guápulo....(see 47) Pekin............... 73 G4 Café Habana..................................... E2 77 Café Toledo............................ E3 62 La Parrilla Uruguaya....................78 E5 El Pobre Diablo.......................... E3 89 Zoom Fashion House..44 D5 á Hotel Plaza Internacional..................82 D1 Centro Comercial El Jardín................................45 C5 Hotel Quito...................................................57 D5 Isla del Mar......... F3 68 Sake....................66 D5 o M Rí Noe Sushi Bar.91 D3 Hertz.......... 76 D3 ENTERTAINMENT Ballet Folklórico Nacional Jacchigua...........................................................43 D3 Hostal Los Alpes............ F4 67 Orisha..............................42 F5 Hostal de La Rábida................................ E4 61 La Paella Valenciana. E4 49 La Casona de Mario.............. F3 63 Mercado La Floresta.............................. 75 D5 Turtle’s Head..........................37 E4 Amaranta Apart Hotel...............87 F5 Mono Dedo...........48 F4 La Casa de Eliza............. F4 46 Hotel Vieja Cuba.................... E5 60 La Choza.................... F1 85 MarsuArte.. E5 79 Ocho y Medio...................................86 E4 Mono Dedo.....55 E3 Clancy's.........................................................................56 F5 Hamburgers del Sese..............................(see 25) Suites González Suárez.......(see 32) Parque El Ejido Art Fair................................... E4 84 Galería Catasse.69 F3 Supermaxi........................ 39 C6 Folklore Hotel............................................................lonelyplanet........ 38 C5 Casa Bambú..................52 F4 6 .............................................71 B4 Uvíllas de Ochún..(see 21) Blues...............(see 34) Seseribó............r E5 ga 64 n Mercado Santa Clara.........com QUITO •• New Town 89 0 0 600 m 0............................53 C5 Centro Café......................................................... E5 72 DRINKING Ananké Guapulo... 81 C5 SHOPPING Centro Artístico Don Bosco................70 E3 Supermercado Santa María...............4 miles QUITO E 36 Av La Gra nja 83 F 19 e ad blic r pú do Re Salva lovaquia s l E eco Ch ue ga Ecovía No r To MarsuArte (25m) G fa r H M on tú 26 23 85 Ca rlo s Cu m Eloy Alfaro Jos é El br M on ito r e 7 Av 6 de Parque La Carolina Dic Av Elo yA iem bre ro lfa 2 Bosmed Bellavista La as Amazon od e Alm a gro Eco vía La Di eg re mb icie 9 ida n de Ráb Av Why mp Baró icto aV Gon Rein vía na inzó Eco Coli YP Camin o ac io 41 Mu gn La nI 6 Baca Ortiz 10 Co rd er o 48 Av Cris tób 34 73 46 trug e 84 al C oló Guápulo n Ga n en got a Av Nin Sa 74 R ros L 52 La rre a de 63 aguilp La Paz Orel San 27 70 an n a 55 a 68 lana ell Igna 59 47 La N iña Or cio Orellana zále z Su ria No Be voa Ho llo rizo nte eD Hum bolt árez 6d er Des Coruña ra ed Lé Po nt ev Ma vara Diego Lad rón de Gue Ib er ia ch ng ar Manue de la R epú blic l Cajía 30 Flores Jijón 1 37 ía 56 64 luc60 da An 72 42 a Ga 25 lic lici 50 tó a 80 Ca La Mad o l Vi rid be led zc Isa lid ay To do a lla Va 79 laz Sa ar a iano d Av e lo hyr sS is n eri ev JS o Bellavista In oc ter eán 28 ica Mariano Calvache FA e hav Lorenzo C 20 C To r ba Av de la R rín Ma Vía San Martín 77 a llan Apa Qu ebr aT um ada bac o El 2 Ba z rán epú blic a rian Ma Pra der a tu Oc 8 de 12 86 AvSwissôtel oA 61 16 35 62 69 5 P Ri ve t Co r a uñ La Paz 89 33 EATING Casa de Campo........(see 66) TRANSPORT Budget.........51 C6 Montaña ................................50 E5 L’Auberge Inn.......o E3 47 Rí Hotel Villa Nancy......................80 E5 Teatro Promoteo.................65 C3 ch á a Naranjilla Mecánica....... E4 41 Hostal de la Mancha..... E3 59 La Briciola.90 D3 Ecuacar.....58 C5 La Bodeguita de Cuba.................................................88 C5 Posada de Artes Kingman.....54 C6 Cevichería Manolo................................... E5 40 Hostal Charles Darwin.. E1 83 Folklore Olga Fisch.......................
QUITO 90 0 0 200 m 0.com 114 124 Galo Plaza 65 61 yo ma Ta JL .1 miles ria Cris olón MARISCAL SUCRE tób áez era UP bre ner 43 82 6 96 57 19 108 99 95 3 14 72 106 Ba qu JL M al V 74 int o Octu 1 128 40 s a zon ma vA 36 A 31 21 28 24 era od Die g ein 84 lma 41 gro 4 tim illa 9 de Park 32 46 30 58 49 25 51 89 Ro Rein Santa Clara c Fo h al C Ge JP aV 44 48 77 Av icto A 129 9 B C D E F Tro le 8 10 sto 27 75 91 29 Cor der o 113 Q U I T O • • M a r i s c a l S u c re Ago 63 45 37 97 13 60 50 88 56 15 33 W 64 1 0d e Av Dá 5 83 2 104 111 76 109 JC ala ma n ilso 86 17 79 16 20 ia JC va 117 J arr los 26 35 68 or ict LM ión 2 98 42 116 Re Ge 71 dr Vic ent 92 123 V ina eR am s ón R 81 87 59 66 g Die e od JP im Ve 101 LG na oc a 69 ez arc ía azo Am 119 105 F 85 103 80 94 h oc 55 100 62 11 34 67 Av Mariscal Sucre int 102 gro a Alm int 126 illa ía cov 12 E áez 70 121 UP 52 3 ne 93 73 bre Av 6d e iem Dic FR ob les z rre tié Gu za Pla as nid 112 Leo bre Jor ge Manuela Cañizares 7 Wa eA 125 er izo M or ígu en o n l era o Ge JC B ral ar rió aq n ue da no LG Vi ce arc ía ctu shin nt eO gto a eR n 39 m 9d 107 ca 78 38 br Di m cie 6 de e ov Ec ía ón Ro 1 22 or ia 23 127 54 47 W ilso ra Me s JL aV 4 ict Re in Av 18 122 90 n FR ob de em na Se pti 115 les azo bre 118 ez érr uti aG laz sP ida 110 on Le Fo ch 18 120 130 Am 53 Av lonelyplanet.
.....................................................sinchisacha..(see 1) English Bookstore............. F1 4 Banco de Guayaquil........................ E1 77 Chifa Mayflower.......... On weekends it fills with families who come out for paddleboats............... 54 Casa Kanela.......8 B1 Colombian Embassy....67 Nü House.....................................................com QUITO •• Sights 91 INFORMATION American Express................................................... 15 D2 Libri Mundi................102 Coffee & Toffee..... 53 Casa Helbling........................ 98 Tomato...... 27 D1 Biking Dutchman...125 F2 Rosy Revelo..................................................40 D1 River People....................................... and exercise along the bike paths........ It’s not huge..... E1 30 Enchanted Expeditions...89 E2 SHOPPING Ag.........................................(see 121) Arte Sacra.126 C3 TRANSPORT Localiza......48 Alberto’s House......................................91 Restaurante Manantial.......................... E1 19 Opera de Jabón.....121 C3 Latino Americana.............36 D1 Neotropic Turis.........................41 D1 San Francisco Language Institute..110 El Aguijón.......................................................73 B3 Café Colibri..........................................................................................(see 16) La Bodega........... 47 D4 SLEEPING Albergue El Taxo..... the small but worthwhile Museo Etnográfico de Artesanía de Ecuador (Map pp88-9............................ 37 D2 Pichincha Spanish School.............................18 B4 Monkeys........ 78 C4 El Cafecito ................... F1 82 Kallari............(see 31) Yanapuma Language School.................................................... 87 D2 Magic Bean.....................92 Rincón de Francia.......................................109 Café Libro.................... 117 D2 El Aborigen.......................................................43 D1 Sierra Nevada Expeditions................................... 128 TAME........ 2 C2 Andinatel.... 105 Kilkenny.................17 C2 Metropolitan Touring.................. 22 C4 Producambios ....................... 79 D2 El Maple.......30am5:30pm Mon-Sat. www................ admission $3.....14 E2 Lavanderia......................13 E2 La Sala................................30pm Mon-Fri) is run by the Salesian Mission and houses an impressive display of indigenous artifacts collected by the missionaries in the Oriente.... 38 C4 Rainforestur.....100 Yanuna............................. 88 D2 Mama Clorinda......................................................... Reina Victoria N26-166 & La Niña......................... 65 Huaukí........................25 F2 Wash & Go .....................................55 Crossroads................................... Just north of the Mariscal...............5 C2 Branch Post Office....... the Museo Amazónico (%256-2663......112 Mayo 68.. 57 El Centro del Mundo..................103 Coffee Tree.................................................................... PARQUE LA CAROLINA North of the Mariscal lies the giant Parque La Carolina.......................................... 120 C4 Galería Latina........94 Siam.....74 C1 Café Mango Tree..................... 95 Su Cebiche......................................49 Antinea Apart Hotel............................................................................ 10...........................(see 31) Safari Tours............................... 119 D2 Galería Beltrán......................(see 108) Happy Gringo............ It’s run by the outstanding Fundación Sinchi Sacha (see p103 and p110).........39 B3 Ritmo Tropical....... 28 D2 Dracaena.......21 D1 Police Station................30am-4.............51 Blue House.......................................... Av 12 de Octubre 1436......118 B4 Explorer............................................................. 97 Tio Billy's............ 107 Zócalo............................................. 66 La Casa Sol..... 59 Hostal El Arupo.....................................................23 B4 Sun City Laundry.............75 D1 Canoa Manabita................. 16 D2 Libro Express......122 B4 Mele Sport............................................. E1 9 Confederate Books........................129 Transportes Ecuador......106 La Reina Victoria.....93 Ristorante Pizzeria Milano....... F1 6 Casa Cultural Afro-Ecuatoriano................................................... admission $2.....111 Humanizarte....52 Café Cultura... especially if you plan to head to the jungle..... 29 D2 Ecole Idiomas.........44 C1 Surtrek.........................81 B2 Hassan's Café.......................85 E2 Las Redes.. 20 D2 Papaya Net .............................. 56 El Cafecito....46 D1 Yacu Amu Rafting/Ríos Ecuador............. 108 ENTERTAINMENT Bungalow 6.................................... 26 D2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Academia Salsa & Merengue............. %223-0609.......124 B4 Productos Andinos..... 127 Panamericana................ 123 C2 Mercado Artesanal La Mariscal... with special emphasis on the peoples of the Oriente.........................................32 D1 Green Planet.......50 Backpacker's Inn.......................... E1 84 La Crêperie..... ...................................................................76 E2 Chandani Tandoori.....30pm Sun) exhibits the artwork................ 113 Patio de Comedías............................86 C2 Le Arcate.... h9.....................................10 D1 Dr John Rosenberg...69 Sakti......................... and there’s a pleasant café on-site...96 Texas Ranch...............11 E3 Ecuadorian Tours.................. 99 Uncle Ho's....................................... 70 D1 E1 E2 E2 E3 C4 D4 F2 D2 E1 E1 D3 E2 E4 E3 D2 F2 D4 D3 E3 D2 F2 C3 Mare Nostrum.......... 130 D4 F1 E1 B4 Above Abya Yala bookstore (p77)............. 58 El Vagabundo................ clothing and utensils of Ecuador’s indigenous people.........1 B4 Andinatel.....................................................................64 Hotel Sierra Madre.............. 45 C2 World Bike.. soccer and volleyball games..................lonelyplanet.80 E3 El Puerto Callao................60 Hostal Fuente de Piedra..............................42 C2 Sangay Touring................. 101 DRINKING Ananké....................... 33 D2 Guayasamín Spanish School...................................104 Finn McCool's......................................... 63 Hotel Sebastián........34 E3 Gulliver............. 68 Posada del Maple........................71 F2 Boca del Lobo..........................org..........................................12 E3 Friends Web Café.....................................................................31 D1 Eos Ecuador............. but it’s an interesting exhibit...................................................... 35 D2 Moggely Climbing.........72 E2 Café Amazonas...................... 115 B4 Centro Artesanal...........3 E2 Banco de Guayaquil.....................7 D3 Clínica Pichincha.................................62 Hostal Nassau.......... h9am-12:30pm & 2-5........... 114 F4 D1 B2 B3 E3 D2 E1 D2 D2 D2 E3 D2 QUITO E3 E2 E2 D2 E2 C4 D2 E2 E4 E2 F3 E1 A4 EATING Aladdin's.............(see 57) El Español. 24 D2 Tourist Office..........................61 Hostal Jardín del Sol............................................................... 116 C2 Cholo Machine...................90 Red Hot Chili Peppers........................................ 83 D2 La Canoa................................................................
or take a bus along Avenida 6 de Diciembre to Avenida Eloy Alfaro and then a Bellavista bus up the hill. . Av Amazonas 3008 at Rumipamba.50. %244-6455. h8:30am-1pm & 1:454:30pm Mon-Fri). this giant monument-cum-museum is a tribute to humankind. admission $3. MUSEO GUAYASAMÍN & THE CAPILLA DEL HOMBRE In the former home of world-famous painter Oswaldo Guayasamín (1919–99). a T-shirt store and a gallery with original prints. is superb. Bosmediano 543. The museum also houses Guayasamín’s collection of religious art including a crucifix by the famous indigenous carver Caspicara. which represents the forced fight between a condor and a bull during Yaguar raimi (blood festival).com The park’s newest addition is the Jardín Botánico (Map pp88-9. and the result is one of the most beautifully displayed archaeological collections in the country. included in the price) are highly recommended. colonial and contemporary themes and follow the three stages of Guayasamín’s career. iguanas. To further acquaint yourself with Ecuador’s flora and fauna.vivarium. admission $2. With more than 300 plant and tree species from around Ecuador and an outstanding orquideario (orchid greenhouse) featuring nearly 1000 orchid species. bone and metal pieces from throughout Ecuador. During the festival. %244-9824. It’s a herpetological research and education center. with purchase of entry to Museo Guayasamín $2. a meditation on the Spanish Civil War.92 QUITO •• Sights lonelyplanet. stairs lead steeply down the other side of the hill to the historic neighborhood of Guápulo. according to the caretaker). there’s a jewelry store. admission $2. www. boa constrictors. Contemplating the thousands QUITO A few blocks away stands one of the most important works of art in South America. Rumipamba s/n. you’ll reach the Hotel Quito at the top. Mariano Calvache at Lorenzo Chávez. turtles. Map pp88-9. Guayasamín studied Da Vinci for eight years and did 470 sketches to get it right. www. You can walk uphill. Nearby. One of the most impressive works is Los Mutilados. A taxi costs about $2. The collection itself. If you’re moved to take something home with you. Mirroring the Inca cultural reverence of the number ‘three. French and Spanish. it prophesied a good harvest.com. northeast of downtown. the windows are 3 sq meters and each tile around the capilla is 30 sq cm. Guayasamín’s Capilla del Hombre (Chapel of Man. Parque La Carolina.50. and a tiny crucifix with a pendulum heart inside that ticks against the chest cavity when touched (or breathed on. home to 87 live reptiles and amphibians including poisonous snakes. to the suffering of Latin America’s indigenous poor and to the undying hope for something better. It’s a moving place and the tours (in English. h9:30am-5:30pm Tue-Sun). the Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Map pp88-9. head next door to the curious natural-history museum. %246-5265. Behind the hotel. and the odd Bohemian café makes for a welcome break.guayasamin. Guápulo If you follow Avenida 12 de Octubre up the hill from the Mariscal. %246-3197.’ the chapel is broken architecturally and thematically into three: there are three levels to the chapel. h9am-5pm). of dead insects and arachnids on display is a good way to rile your nerves before a trip to the Oriente. The fruit of Guayasamín’s greatest vision. and the staff periodically gives close demonstrations with one of the snakes. The pieces are arranged by theme – bowls. An ethno-botanical garden is also in the works. you can provide further fodder for your jungle fears with a visit to the Vivarium (Map pp88-9. ramshackle houses stand interspersed among colonial whitewashed homes with terra-cottatile roofs. The museum and chapel are in the residential district of Bellavista. this wonderful museum (Map pp88-9. which has numerous murals. admission $3. it’s well worth the admission price. frogs and tortoises. The other masterwork is the El condor y el toro mural. h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) houses the most complete collection of his work.org . in Spanish. h10am-5pm Tue-Sun). a condor was tied to the bull’s neck – if the condor won. admission $2. The exhibits adhere to precolonial. The views all the way down here are magnificent. and the museum displays his outstanding collection of more than 4500 pre-Colombian ceramic. Guayasamín was also an avid collector. They usually leave upon request during opening hours. %227-1799.ec. fertility figurines. burial masks etc – rather than by era or cultural group.
meeting place for climbers from Quito. %2238-954. ACTIVITIES Those seeking a bit more adventure can spend the day rock climbing. trails lead to Rucu Pichincha – it’s approximately three hours to the top. a ride (some 10km). The best views of Guápulo are from the lookout behind the Hotel Quito. admission $6. while Arie’s Bike Company (%238-0802.12. a four-face bouldering structure and a rock building. before heading out. It has an excellent collection of Quito School art and sculpture. Hiking Quito’s new telefériQo (p85) takes passengers up to Cruz Loma (4100m).lonelyplanet. Cordero E12-141 at Toledo. %225-5404. The owner sets up slide shows or chats on weekend evenings. For information on climbing operators. %256-8323. Cycling Every other Sunday. a beautiful church built between 1644 and 1693. The tiny bathhouse has a small pool. It’s a useful source of nonbiased information (no one’s trying to sell anything but a cup of coffee) and a good place to meet local climbers. Don’t attempt this hike if you’ve just arrived in Quito – allow a couple of days to acclimatize. Local mountain-biking companies rent bikes and offer excellent tours including one-day rides through the páramo (Andean grasslands) of Parque Nacional Cotopaxi. sometimes closed for lunch). as loads of pedalers take to the street for the bimonthly ciclopaseo. Visit www. Montaña (Map pp88-9. a sauna and a hot tub. Single-day trips cost about $50. Trips are sometimes arranged and everyone’s included. For high-quality parts and bikes by makers including KHS. Queseras del Medio s/n. %250-8463. trips incorporating a stop at Papallacta hot springs. www. mountain_refuge ecuador@yahoo. La Cascada (Map p86. and past a barbed-wire fence that no one seems to pay any attention to. 9:30am-1:30pm Sat). stretches from the airport. the entire length of Avenida Amazonas and most of the old town closes to cars. through the old town and into the southern reaches of Quito. marking the beginning of his epic journey from Quito to the Atlantic – the first descent of the Amazon by a European. has good bikes and guides and an outstanding reputation. 3-10pm Sat) is a good source of information. as well as down-hill descents. . including SAE (p79). Calle Larrea) near González Suárez.com) has received great reports from readers. which you can cycle part or all of. and some scrambling is required. climbing Rucu Pichincha was dangerous due to armed robberies. Beyond the rise of Cruz Loma. If you rent equipment. Marin and Manitou. Before the telefériQo went in. The Rocódromo is walking distance from the Mariscal. stop by Bike Stop (Map pp88-9.ariesbikecompany.com. and it’s well worth assessing the security situation from local authorities. www.com. The statue depicts Francisco de Orellana looking down into the valley. from where you can hike to the top of jagged Rucu Pichincha (about 4680m). The entire Soaking After a long day’s hike. the staff will belay you. Climbing Climbers can get a serious fix at the Rocódromo (Map pp88-9. h10am10pm Mon-Wed. www . Foch 714 at Mera) is Ecuador’s pioneer mountain-biking operator. Av 6 de Diciembre N34-55 at Checoslovaquia. harnesses.com QUITO •• Activities 93 At the bottom of the hill stands the neighborhood’s centerpiece. Flores 41-47. chalk bags and carabiners are all available for rental. admission $2. and a stunning 18th-century pulpit carved by master wood-carver Juan Bautista Menacho. There are more than a dozen routes (some as hard as class 5.ciclopolis.bikingdutch man. and two-day trips to Cotopaxi and Chimborazo and to Cotopaxi and Laguna Quilotoa.bikestopecuador . Compare prices and trips at the following operators: Biking Dutchman (Map p90. to midnight Thu & Fri. hiking and cycling – all within city limits. to 6pm Sat & Sun). h9am-6pm. in Spanish. % 295-8200. Shoes. h8am-8pm Mon-Fri. h10am-7pm Mon-Fri. see p79.com.ec for more info (in Spanish). not including park-entrance fees. There have been attacks in recent years. or 7C on the French scale) on the three main walls. next to the statue of Francisco de Orellana (Map pp88-9. It’s also a QUITO 25m-high climbing facility across from the Estadio Rumiñahui. ropes. h 10am8pm) may ease your weary limbs. the Sanctuary of El Guápulo (Map pp88-9.
p87) inside the Parque La Alameda (13. because it’s deserted. From the plaza. Foch E4-256. behind the Hotel Quito. 15. Wednesday and Friday from 5 to 6pm. As you leave the park. walk north to Calle Esmeraldas and turn left. Have a glimpse of the pretty Plaza San Blas (11) before continuing on to the impressive Simón Bolívar monument (12. Climb to the top of the clock tower for superb views over the old town (daredevils can opt for the ascent up the bell tower). After three blocks. Whymper 31-128 y Paul Rivet Quito. From here. Inquire about yoga tours and holistic retreats. %296-6844. p103). From La Ronda. After checking out the Palacio del Gobierno (2. mirror-walled Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana (17. with colonial balconied houses that are some of Quito’s oldest. until you reach the small. If you continue past the museum on García Moreno. circular.94 QUITO •• Walking Tour lonelyplanet. Yoga Studio Sadhana (%290-7606. The photogenic Plaza Grande (1. p87). this place offers private/group (per hour $6/5) lessons in a wide variety of styles. it’s a short stroll to many excellent eateries in the Mariscal (p104). Continuing on Avenida 6 de Diciembre takes you past the popular Parque El Ejido (16. p84) on your right. with Parque El Ejido to your left. Here. walk one block northwest along Sucre to the impressive Plaza and Monastery of San Francisco (5. h10am-8pm Mon-Fri) Run by Sylvia Garcia. similar to salsa) and other Latin American dances. You might consider timing your visit to catch the changing of the guards on the Plaza Grande. . you’ll hit the historic street Juan de Dios Morales. head north along Calle Flores to the attractive Plaza del Teatro. you can stop for a drink or a snack at an outdoor table of the nicely positioned Café del Teatro (9. to the Museo de la Ciudad (6.5km walk takes in some of the historic sights of the old town before moving north through various green spaces into the new town. p84). with the excellent Govindas restaurant (p104) on-site. p84). per class/month $5/40). or you’ll spend a lot of time shoegazing anytime you hit one of Ecuador’s salsotecas (salsa clubs). per class $15) WALK FACTS Start: Plaza Grande End: Avenida Amazonas Distance: 3. you’ll pass the modern legislative palace (Legislative Congress Building. Avenida Amazonas (18). stop by the friendly Krishna center (Map p86. p80) and the cathedral (3. While Sunday is a pleasant day to stroll the old town. you’ll spot the Quito Observatory (14. p80). walk up to Calle Guayaquil and turn northeast (left). p83). it can be unsafe to wander through the new town. p83). p87) on your right.5km Duration: Four hours OLD TOWN WALKING TOUR This meandering 3. leaving you on the edge of the Mariscal. cumbia (a dance originally from Colombia. p80) is a good starting point. currently held on Monday around 11am. backtrack to García Moreno and then head southwest (right) for three blocks. Just ahead. then turn right at Venezuela and continue north to the looming Basílica del Voto Nacional (10. From the Plaza Santo Domingo. p87) on your right. also known as La Ronda (7. Esmeraldas 853. %2220427. Casa Cultural Afro-Ecuatoriano (p77) Offers salsa and other classes for $5/45 (per hour/12 classes). stone arch marking the beginning of Quito’s most famous modern street. continue north on Avenida 6 de Diciembre. COURSES Dance Learn to dance salsa. From here. Other excellent places to take a class: Centro Alternativo de Arte Shakti (Rafael Larrea 1050 y Camino de Orellana. Weekdays are the liveliest time to wander the streets. From here. p87). and the huge. per class $5) Located in Guápulo. The following schools are excellent: Academia Salsa & Merengue (Map p90. walk east along Calle Caldas to busy Calle Guayaquil. Classes are currently held on Monday. continue southwest on García Moreno and turn right on Sucre to see La Compañía de Jesús (4. p87) on your left.com QUITO Yoga For Hatha yoga classes. From the church. which is then closed to traffic. and you’ll pass the Church and Plaza of Santo Domingo (8. p81). under the arch at Rocafuerte. a pro dancer with 20 years experience. Turn left past the Casa de la Cultura and walk three blocks along Avenida Patria. Most schools also offer merengue (a ballroom dance originating from Haiti).
%222-0478. ritmotropi cal5@hotmail. and some charge an inscription fee (usually around $20). h9am-8pm Mon-Fri) Lessons cost $5/4. Quito Antiguo Spanish School (Map p86. cnr of Dávalos. 2nd fl) Excellent foundation-run school with opportunities to study while traveling or volunteering. Venezuela 1129) The old town’s only language school offers a wide range of study options. %2957023. many offering private and group classes. Veintimilla E8-125. organized activities and volunteer opportunities.com. Calama E8-54 near Av 6 de Diciembre) Ecuadorian owned. %254-6709. Pichincha Spanish School (Map p90. where the snakes. the coast and the mountains. Courses can last anywhere from a couple of days to months or more. volunteer opportunities and homestays.com. Offers capoeira too. Another museum that will likely go over well is the Museo Amazónico (p91). %223-1592.com. Yanapuma Language School (Map p90. learningwhile-traveling programs.50 per hour (private/group).pichinchaspanishschool. Parque La Carolina (p91) has loads of fun stuff: after taking them to one of the playgrounds or pedaling them around the lake in a paddleboat. www. Av Amazonas N24-155 at Calama. San Francisco Language Institute (Map p90. Parque El Ejido 16 JS alin onas Parque El Arbolito Ca rac as go ta as Ejido Ta rq ui Av 6 de Diciem Bo Rio de e Jan iro ire s Av 10 JM alvo ont 15 a Borja LF Borj bre Bu en A os Eugenío Espejo L Sodir osto de Ag io JR frío El Belén Felic Ch iano eca Parque La Alameda Av C olom bia Espinoza La Alameda AA nte 14 13 Pr isc a Sa Ibarra nt a 12 Elizalde 10 Luis Varg Briceño Cald as Briceño Banco Central San Blas 11 Plaza San Blas ara Antep Hermano Miguel il San Juan Carchi García M oreno as Torres Gua Oriente yaqu Galápag Benalcá os far Montú incha Av Pich Gonzalez Suarez Cuenca zar Esmeral das í 9 Teatro Sucre Plaza del Teatro Bu Manab Olm edo st am an Le Marín te Mejía Chile 2 Plaza Grande 1 START Flores Espe jo QUITO FOR CHILDREN Keeping the kiddos happy in Quito might require a bit of effort. info@ecotravel -ecuador. turtles and lizards will surely interest and/or frighten them. Approximately 20% of profits are donated to social projects.com Q U I T O • • Q u i t o f o r C h i l d re n 95 OLD TOWN WALKING TOUR 0 0 200 m 0. plus $50 inscription fee) but gets high recommendations.org. 2nd fl. homestays with local families.guayasaminschool. Visit a few schools before committing. www. There are more than 80 Spanish schools. QUITO END 18 d e Septiembre 18 Av A maz Av P atria Casa de la Cultura 17 Language Studying Spanish is the perfect excuse for a prolonged stay in Quito. %255 7094. Carrión 437) This small school receives good reviews. Private lessons cost from $6 to $9 per hour.1 miles Ritmo Tropical (Map p90. but there’s definitely plenty to do. both in Quito and remote villages in the jungle. www. Ecole Idiomas (Map p90. Office 201) Pricey (per hour $9. with both morning and evening classes and family stays.sanfranciscospanish.com. Guayasamín Spanish School (Map p90. %2521306.yanapuma. Av Amazonas 662. Montú far 3 Venez San Marcos Sucre Junin Guayaqu il 4 Sucre 5 ira Pere Iglesa de Santo Domingo Bolívar uela 8 Santo Domingo M Plaza Santo Domingo al do na Roca fuerte 6 M Dios s orale 7 (La Ron da) do Juan de Cumandá .lonelyplanet. www. García E6-15 near Mera) Volunteer projects available.com. and carries lots of reader recommendations. %254-4210. walk them through the naturalhistory museum or (even better) the Vivarium.
h9am-6pm) Offers a good range of climbing.neotropicturis. Mera 2384. Washington 8-20) Owner Ivan Rojas has been on the Ecuadorian mountain scene for years and is an invaluable resource for expeditionists. %252-1212. Nuevo Mundo Expeditions (Map pp88-9.moggely. Quilotoa and more. Outside Quito Quito is one of the easiest places in Ecuador to arrange a guided tour. but receive more detailed treatment (including prices) in the respective regional chapters. A four-day trip costs per person $200 to $288. Foch E6-12. cnr Mera & Calama. Católica N24-679) Located inside La Casa de Eliza (p99). Fundación Golondrinas (Map pp88-9. %222-6602. Also available are excursions to Peru via the Marañon River. www.com/golondrinas. Most day trips cost $30 to $45 per person.com. Half of the profits are donated to sustainable-development projects. long in the business. www . www. %252-4422. in which case the hotel will arrange for a sitter. See also p244.to eight-day tours of Cuyabeno (p240) that have received excellent reviews from our readers.companiadeguias. Gulliver (Map p90. Calama E4-54) Reputable climbing operator. at the telefériQo (p85). be it a Galápagos cruise. h8am-8pm) Wellregarded operator offering hiking. Tourist-oriented babysitting services are impossible to find in Quito unless you’re staying at one of the city’s top-end hotels. Located between Mera and Avenida Amazonas. www. Happy Gringo (Map p90. Tailor-made trips are available. %2509431.nuevomundotravel. on the edge of Huaorani territory. Foch 769) Runs some of the best (and priciest) small boats in the Galápagos. www.com. Baños and Tena).travel. Courses. Green Planet (Map p90. 255-6210. J Pinto E4-340) Between Avenida Amazonas and Mera. Kem Pery Tours (%250-5599. does Cotopaxi. browse the entertainment listings for the word ‘títeres’ (puppets). There’s a sparkling new theme park. Eos Ecuador (%601-3560. Tours.gulliver. of course.com Mountain Guides) instructors and speak several languages. www . 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) A fairly new operator that has received numerous recommendations from travelers for its full range of trips and tours. Many tour companies that operate in the Oriente or Gálapagos (or anywhere in the country for that matter) have offices in Quito.com. this conservation project hikes in the páramo and forests west of Tulcán (see p141). hiking and mountain-biking trips and river-rafting trips. Moggely Climbing (Map p90. see p93. Cayambe rose plantations and more.com.96 QUITO •• Tours lonelyplanet. 09-946-2265.com) Kem Pery does trips to Bataburo Lodge. 09-980-3395. They depart from the tourist office inside the Palacio Arzobispal. hmorning & afternoon departures Tue-Sun) in the old town with friendly cop-cum-tourist guides. h9am-7pm Mon-Fri. with guides who are all Asociación Ecuatoriana de Guías de Montaña (ASEGUIM .eosecuador. mountainbiking and horseback-riding trips in the Andes. daily departures. guide recommendations and equipment rental are available. adults/children under 12 $10/5. Also arranges excursions to the Oriente and the Andes.enchantedexpeditions. Also see p234 for more information. climbing. %2901551. Neotropic runs the wonderful Cuyabeno Lodge in the Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno (p241). Enchanted Expeditions (Map p90. Trips cost per person $224/330 (two/three days) not including park entrance fees. Excellent prices. Compañía de Guías de Montaña (Map pp88-9. %256-9960.com. Fiveto seven-day Cotopaxi trips with acclimatization programs are based out of its Hostería PapaGayo (p154) and cost $360 to $450 and $500 respectively.ec. climbing trip or jungle tour. at Mera) Professional outfit with strong conservation Puppet shows are usually held on Sunday in the Plaza Grande. Ilinizas. %254-6590.kempery. www. uses only ASEGUIM guides. and occasionally staged at Centro Cultural Itchimbia and other theaters. %222-0031. Pinto E4-453) Offers four. 18 de Septiembre E4161. Av Amazonas N24-66 at Pinto) Eos offers a wide range of conventional and off-the-beaten-path tours including jungle tours and adventure hikes.com. these are included as follows. complete with bumper cars and other rides. %252-0570. Dracaena (Map p90. Ecuadorian Association of . Alta Montaña (Map pp88-9. City Tours The Corporación Metropolitana de Turismo offers four different cultural walks (paseos culturales. %255-4984. Five-day tours are $200 per person. can also be arranged in towns closer to the destination (especially in Riobamba. %252-9297. which is sometimes better value.happygringo. www. 09-4229483. Pululahua. But many find Quito the most convenient. www . For mountain-biking tours near Quito. Neotropic Turis (Map p90. QUITO TOURS Conventional travel agencies (p79) offer all sorts of standard tours to places such as Mitad del Mundo. www. Washington 425 at Av 6 de Diciembre) A top-notch mountain-climbing operator.ecuadorexplorer.com.
It sells other operators’ tours. from volcano climbs and jungle trips to local jeep tours and personalized off-the-beaten-track expeditions.to six-day tours to the Oriente. www . Other trips range from two to eight days. QUITO FESTIVALS & EVENTS As throughout Ecuador. In late November. www. %223-1534. Quasar Nautica (Map p82. Owner Steve Nomchong has competed and worked as a Q U I T O • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s 97 judge and safety inspector on the international circuit. Foch 746) Excellent riverrafting operator with daily departures to the Río Toachi and Río Blanco and several other Class III–IV options.com. but it’s a good way to compare some of the best on offer. Tropic Ecological Adventures (Map pp88-9.com. Trips start in Tena but go to a variety of rivers. Carnaval. The festivities. while lacking in Thai restaurants and expat FIESTAS DE QUITO Quito’s biggest annual event commemorates the founding of the city by the Spanish on December 6. Av Amazonas 420 near Robles) Offers wellreceived rafting trips on the Río Pastaza near Baños. people celebrate New Year’s Eve by burning elaborate. Owner Freddy Ramirez is well established and a very reputable mountain guide. It’s also a great place to arrange Galápagos trips. Surtrek (Map p90.quasar nautica. based in Tena. He now owns Ríos Ecuador (p252).to five-day Río Napo cruises aboard its comfy Manatee Amazon Explorer (see p244) and Andean hiking and ethnobotanical trips. and the evenings are dominated by colorful chivas (open-topped buses) maneuvering through the streets. %290 6639. and rates are good. bullfights are held at the Plaza de Toros (Map p82) and flamenco dancing is staged throughout town as quiteños connect with their Spanish roots. J Pinto 637) Near Cordero and long in the business. www. %223-9822. Sierra Nevada Expeditions (Map p90.com. however. which. %255-0176/80. Personalized tours available. Andes and cloud forest. Sierra Nevada offers climbing and river-rafting trips. Quito comes to a near standstill on December 5. %2236844. %255-2505.river peopleraftingecuador. launching explosives into the sky and otherwise throwing general public safety to the wind. River People (Map p90. %244-6996. %255-3658.rainfores tur. four. life-sized puppets in the streets at midnight. Rainforestur (Map p90. %2225907. Also arranges economically priced Galápagos tours. is celebrated by intense water fights – no one is spared (careful with your camera if it isn’t waterproof!).sangay. On the week leading up to the big day. Sangay Touring (Map p90.com. when everyone comes out to party. 2nd fl) Offers expensive but excellent luxury yacht trips in the Galápagos. Organizes Galápagos tours. top-end prices and top-end tours and guides. with nightly street parties erupting as DJs and popular local bands taking to open-air stages set up all over town. hiking excursions and visits to cloud forests and volcanoes. internet cafés. where you sleep on different islands rather than aboard a cruise ship. It’s a great time to be here. which has an impressive assortment of guesthouses plus international restaurants.com. held the weekend before Ash Wednesday (a changing date in February). Quito chooses a queen.com. the most spectacular being the procession of cucuruchos (penitents wearing purple robes and inverted cone masks) on Good Friday. www. Foch E4-132. Also offers hiking and indigenous market tours in the Quito area. www . cnr Av Amazonas N24-196 & Cordero) Offers a variety of standardized day tours including jeep trips. held in early December (see below).com/hotels interests. Also offers unique ‘island hopping’ Galápagos tours. affable and highly professional white-water rafting outfit. Yacu Amu Rafting/Ríos Ecuador (Map p90. adventure outfitters and nightlife.yacuamu. packed with dancing revelers. There is also a four-day kayaking school.surtrek. Offers all range of tours and trips.tropiceco. www.com.com. www. Edificio IACA. Visitors seeking a more traditional side of Quito book a room in the old town. Av Amazonas 897) Top-end company with years of experience in hiking and climbing. and trips to Cuyabeno and elsewhere (see p172). Av de la República E7-320) Long-time agency offering numerous three. www. Colorful religious processions are held during Semana Santa (Easter Week). so you’re in good hands. Safari Tours (Map p90. Brasil 293 near Granda Centeno. . Located between Mera and Avenida Amazonas. Foch 746) Family-run. Momentum builds as the day draws near. SLEEPING Most travelers tend to stay in the Mariscal.com. start much earlier. 250-0530. Prices average $130 to $160 per day. www.hotelsierranevada. h9am-7pm) Excellent reputation and long in the business. Rates range from $25 to $75 per person.Book your stay at lonelyplanet. rates start around $75 per person.galapagosyachts. By far the biggest event of the year is the founding of Quito festival.
hot water and good showers. Spanish lessons. and it’s only a few blocks away. TOP END Hotel El Relicario del Carmen (Map p86. but double doors open onto a lovely balcony over a pretty interior courtyard. Beds are saggy. s/d/tr/ste $26/36/61/71) The eight rooms at the pleasant Posada Colonial boast classic decor.realaudiencia. Flores 600. Off-street rooms lack balconies and character. also in the new town. r per person with shared/private bathroom $6/8) Although a bit close to the bus terminal. posadacolo nial@yahoo. hotelrelicarmo@andinanet. s/d $8/10) This family-run place has a dimly lit interior patio watched over by three floors of small rooms with low ceilings and wide. Paredes 188. Hostal La Casona (Map p86.sanfranciscodequito. Those with balconies are a bit noisy. but offers good value for its clean. The area around Guápulo and Hotel Quito. Rooms are bright and cheerful with wood floors and the staff is great.com. but it’s extremely well kept and totally secure. s/d with breakfast $75/97) This delightful guesthouse is couple. TV and constant hot water (some even have lofts). BUDGET Though the ’70s-style grapevine wallpaper can bug your eyes out. plank floors. It’s between Mejia and Chile. The enormous corner suite has huge windows and scenic old-town views. %228-0435. Because it’s a colonial building. %295-4860. wood floors and sizeable windows (a rarity in old colonial houses).com. and the price includes breakfast in the top-floor restaurant with its great views. García Moreno 1160. The . Guápulo is wonderful at night (and during the day) and the area has a more local. La Posada Colonial (Map p86. %228-0282. top-notch service and cheerful interior patio make this the best hotel deal in the old town.to 15-minute walk from both the old town and the Mariscal (it’s technically part of the new town). It’s the sort of place that has plenty of things (low doorways. Plaza San Blas.hotelvienaint. Guayaquil N8-75. but are quieter. www.net. Venezuela 10-41. s/d $12/24) Across from the Plaza del Teatro. Most rooms are carpeted and many have views. and open onto an interior courtyard. %295-6704. Rooms have tiled floors and beamed ceilings. s/d $10/15) Decent and efficient option for cheap. Bolívar 220. this family-run place is still one of the old town’s best value accommodations. Flores 355. offers unrivaled beauty and historic streets that make for some great exploring. www. %228-1434. safe lodging in the old town. %257-0626.secret gardenquito. some of which have balconies. Secret Garden (Map p86. TVs. The service is friendly and attentive. The quiet and increasingly artsy new-town neighborhood of La Floresta is a pleasant (and safer) alternative to the Mariscal. doesn’t boast much selection. near the Instituto Geográfico Militar) has a nontouristy feel and is a 10. Hotel San Francisco de Quito (Map p86. MIDRANGE QUITO Hotel Internacional Plaza del Teatro (Map p86. Manabí Oe1-59. nontouristy feel.com. the spotless rooms. family-run hotel on the attractive Plaza San Blas is a good deal if you don’t mind small rooms. %228-7758. Sucre Oe3-17. s/d mini-apartments with kitchenettes $28/44) This his- Hostal San Blas (Map p86. Friendly service. but the breeze is nice. Hotel Flores (Map p86. travel information and lots of activities. dm/d with shared bathroom $8/20) Owned by an Ecuadorian/Australian toric converted house boasts spotless rooms with telephone. but it’s a dodgy area after about 7pm.com. %228-9120. %228-2859. There’s an all-you-can-eat breakfast ($3. It’s very popular.com/hotels bars. Don’t confuse this with a budget hotel of the same name near the bus station. Antepara E4-60. www. so reserve well in advance. this popular hostel has a party vibe and attracts a mix of young backpackers. Rooms have hardwood floors. most rooms lack windows. Rooms are dark (windows open onto a small interior patio) but clean and cute. www . i) The Real Audiencia offers nondescript but nicely kept rooms with wi-fi. %295-2711. Hotel Viena Internacional (Map p86. The rather hazily defined area between the old and new towns (southeast of Parque El Ejido. s/d $30/48. Hotel Real Audiencia (Map p86.ec.com. s/d with bathroom $15/30) Old Town The hotels between Plaza Santo Domingo and the bus terminal are some of the cheapest. rooms are basic. but it’s an interesting area. this grand old dame has seen better days. strangely placed TV mounts) to hit your head upon.50). There are several restaurants on-site.98 QUITO •• Sleeping Book your stay at lonelyplanet. carpeted rooms. livened up by artwork in the halls and a 5th-floor terrace with sublime views. tall ceilings. s/d from $6/8) This friendly. nightly dinners ($5 to $8). %2959462. La Posada Colonial (Map p86. s/d $14/38. Caldas 121.
com. Av Colombia N12-200. d with private bathroom $25) Over the excellent café New Town BUDGET Casa Bambú (Map pp88-9. manteca @uio. several restaurants (including one in the wine cellar) and impeccable service. a wee garden. s/d with shared bathroom $7/10.com/hotels QUITO •• Sleeping 99 set in a converted colonial mansion sprinkled with colorful paintings and stained-glass windows.com. It has spotless rooms. a book exchange. La Casa de Eliza (Map pp88-9. Solano E5-27.cafecito . Cordero E12-141 at Toledo. heritage artwork on the walls.net.satnet.com. El Centro del Mundo (Map p90. %228-1811. Foch E4-116. dm/s $6/8) A magnet among young backpackers.Book your stay at lonelyplanet. this popular French-Canadian–owned hostel has brightly painted rooms. Rooms are clean. all of which are exquisitely set with antique furnishings. comfy lounge areas and outdoor space. email@example.com. %256-5724. El Cafecito (Map p90. service is top-notch and a peaceful air pervades the place. s/d with shared bathroom $15/19.net. s/d with shared bathroom $10/15. ste from $500. dm $8. García Moreno N6-52. a common room with a fireplace. s/d with shared bathroom $8/16. d with private bathroom $20. most of which have shared bathrooms. Plaza Grande (Map p86. It’s a great place to hook up with local altitude freaks. It occupies a converted house with a big guest a friendly place with clean but dated rooms. cnr García Moreno & Chile.net/auberge-inn. a triple and a quad. Backpacker’s Inn (Map p90. most face onto an interior courtyard. Isabel La Católica N24-679. Posada del Maple (Map p90. with private bathroom $25/29) Maple is Although this old favorite is definitely showing its age. García E7-26. this is an eternally popular budget choice. and tall ceilings. chandeliers and marble bathrooms with Jacuzzi tubs. with private bathroom $8/16) Friendly and modest. All rooms are bright and have windows. the place has a mellow vibe and the café with outdoor seating serves great breakfasts. www. a pool table and a decent in-house restaurant.com. Beautiful woodwork fills the rooms and common areas. It’s well liked by many travelers. It’s worth the uphill hike to get there. Some rooms have small balconies. a guest kitchen and traveler-friendly ambience. www .ioda . i) This gem of a place has bright and airy rooms. mountain_refuge ecuador@yahoo. www. Junín 655. homespun place. a small garden area. Montaña (Map pp88-9. d $250. Rooms are even sweeter. this well- located hostel has a laid-back vibe with just a handful of simple rooms – all with decent light and wood floors. www. The no-frills common area has a fireplace (rarely fired up) and the guest kitchen is well kept.plazagrande quito. %222-9050. www. oCasa San Marcos (Map p86. a small book exchange and simple rooms. Albergue El Taxo (Map p90.centrodelmundo. dm/s/d $7/9/15) Opened in 2004 by an avid local Quito’s finest hotel offers gorgeously decorated rooms (all suites) with carved-wood details.posadadelmaple. El Taxo occupies a Inside a remodeled 16th-century home. www . dm/d $6/12) of the same name (p107).backpackersinn. while rooms without are dark and somewhat dismal. %228-0830. Nassau offers a range of rooms. and for good reason. %254-4507. dm $7.hotelpatioandaluz. Rooms with private bathrooms are clean and bright.net. laundry facilities and outstanding views from the hammocks on the roof. Pinto E4-342. %250-9669.nas sauhostal. dm/s/d from $6/8/13.com. dm/s/d with shared bathroom $5/7/10. www . Rodriguez 245. a giant rooftop terrace. L’Auberge Inn (Map pp88-9. With one double. i) kitchen. Hotel Patio Andaluz (Map p86.com. two singles. and an elegant terrace café is in the works. with polishedwood floors and beamed ceilings (but small bathrooms). %223-8954. %223-4862. %/fax 222-5593. . Montaña has a welcoming vibe and is an excellent choice for climbers and hikers on a budget. with private bathroom $10/14) A good cheapie option QUITO popular with travelers. Hostal Nassau (Map p90. d $80-150) Yet another beautifully restored colonial mansion. There’s a small spa. s/d with shared bathroom $7/14. %222-6602. %251-0777. a sociable common area. climber. colorful rooms. it only sleeps 11. i) converted ’70s house with pleasant. the plush rooms of this elegant hotel open onto interior wooden-floor balconies. %222-6738. a guest kitchen. with private bathroom $11/19) This clean. Cordero E6-43. %255-2912. There’s also an art gallery and antiques shop here. cheerful inn boasts a good traveler vibe with agencies on hand for arranging hikes and other adventure trips. Rodriguez E8-49. i) Overlooking a peaceful street. www . it’s still a friendly. Casa San Marcos has just four rooms.
r per person $10) three-story guesthouse in La Floresta is family run and has a very spacious feel with lots of light. this sleek new hostel offers small but clean colorful rooms with wood floors. % 254-6162.hos talelarupo. Aleida’s Hostal (Map pp88-9.casonademario.chdarwin. The owner welcomes guests with a shot of punta (homemade firewater). Although slightly out of the way (about a 15-minute walk from the Mariscal). a comfy lounge with fireplace and a kitchen for guest use.ec. s/d incl breakfast $31/43. spruce lodging.com. simple rooms with a grassy courtyard in front. Hotel Plaza Internacional (Map pp88-9. www. www. %254-4036. %256-6181. %222-4241. Extras include . s/d $35/42) colonial-style house in the Mariscal. Foch E5-08. Colina 304. r per person $14) Mariscal. with private bathroom $23/30) A popular guest- house among travelers despite the worn but bright rooms in need of a good scrub.casa kanela. Madrid 868. www. colorful rooms with blue-and-yellow–checkered bedspreads that match the house’s paintjob. www.com. www. relaxed and friendly. Magic Bean (Map p90. %290-4286.org. with private bathroom $18/36) This friendly.com. El Vagabundo (Map p90. which amount to a fairly good deal thanks in large part to its friendly owners and the attached pizzeria. a big communal table and a spotless kitchen. Toa Bed & Breakfast (Map pp88-9. converted guesthouse offers bright rooms with stucco walls and friendly service.exploring ecuador. high. s/d with shared bathroom $15/23. wooden ceilings. patio and lounge areas. Pinto E7-82. %222-6013. Hostal Jardín del Sol (Map p90. www . Some rooms are bigger than others and the best have wood floors and balconies. La Casona de Mario is outstanding value with homey rooms.hostaltoa.com.hostalhuauki . a garden.bluehouse quito. Toa is a wonderful B&B with cheery.hotelplazainternacional. but the beds are firm and there’s an immaculate communal kitchen. i) An excellent new addition to In a lovely old house. www. Folklore Hotel (Map pp88-9. a common area with a fireplace. %252-4530. s/d with shared bathroom $14/20. Blue House (Map p90. General Veintimilla 531. this friendly guesthouse has six pleasant rooms with wood floors in a converted house on a quiet street. El Arupo is a spotless and homey converted house with a lovely little front patio.100 Q U I T O • • S l e e p i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet. www. Casa Helbling is clean. %223-4323. La Casona de Mario (Map pp88-9. Rodríguez E7-22.hostaljardindelsol. Rodriguez 147. Rooms are a bit dark. i) This intimate hotel sits on a quiet street and has 12 comfortable rooms with carpeting and homey furnishings. comfortable. dm $8-9. s/d $28/38) Inside a large colonial mansion. Hostal El Arupo (Map p90.mamey. Crossroads (Map p90. www. i) In a homey. but near all the action. MIDRANGE One of several good guesthouse/hostels on the quietest street in the Mariscal. Leonidas Plaza 150. laundry facilities and plenty of common areas for chilling out.com.com. www. www. the Magic Bean offers clean. %222-6376. It’s set in a big converted house with kitchen. this Casa Helbling (Map p90. welcoming place. unfussy rooms.com. meaning little rest for light sleepers.de. s/d $12/20) Located behind a vegetarian restaurant. Sakti offers a handful of clean. s/d with shared bathroom 13/26. dm/ s/d $10/25/30) Better known for its lively restaurant (p108). Andalucía N24-115. %223-0941. Sakti (%252-0466. www .com/hotels QUITO Huaukí (Map p90.crossroad shostal.com. Carrión 641. this delightfully converted house in La Floresta has spacious. Calama E8-29. Foch E5-23. %223-4570.alei dashostal. dm/s/d/tr with breakfast $12/19/30/36.com. F Lizarazu N23-209 near La Gasca.casahel bling. shared spotless bathrooms. and hardwood floors. Hostal Charles Darwin (Map pp88-9. with Japanese and vegetarian fare. dm/d $8/20) New in 2008.com/vagabundo. Casa Kanela (Map p90. and it has a guest kitchen. some of which open onto shared verandas. Andalucía 559. www . Wilson E7-45. s/d with breakfast $25/33) ‘The Vagabond’ offers clean but dull rooms. Kanela offers minimalist but stylish rooms in a pleasant converted house on pretty Rodriguez. comfy rooms adorned with handicrafts.folklore hotel. The downside is the noise from the restaurant. There’s a sunny back patio and a fully equipped apartment to boot. Breakfast is available for $2 to $4 extra. It has a small garden and a welcoming.ec. The restaurant with draped fabrics is a popular traveler hangout.com. Has wi-fi access. www. huge rooms. s/d with breakfast $19/29) Near Pontevedra. dm/d from $6/20) Opened by a Japanese expat. Pinto E8-24. family feel. It’s a friendly. %255-4621. a TV lounge and a guest kitchen. with private bathroom $22/30. %223-4735. s/d $25/37) Located on a quiet street. There’s a grassy yard in front for barbecues. Jardín del Sol is a good-value spot with clean. %255-7543. %222-3480.
s/d $60/74. Almagro 1212. www . i) A touch over the top in the design depart- ment.com. crackling fireplaces and handsome. i) This solid. which doubles as a restaurant. Hotel Sebastián (Map p90. mural-filled bedrooms all adding to the charm. %255-0839. framed artwork and a trim. %222-4271.com. Buffet breakfast and airport pickup are included. Hotel Villa Nancy (Map pp88-9. this huge. La Casa Sol (Map p90. this is a comfortable if somewhat bland midrange option. has refreshing rooms and a colorful flair. this large. viejacuba@ andinanet. i) Many of the Sebastián’s 50 good-sized rooms have balconies and some have great views. There’s a tiny bar-lounge and a restaurant serving delicacies such as filet chateaubriand (thick steak) and crêpe suzette – for guests only. cabin-style rooms with carpeting. Persian rugs. Hostal de la Mancha (Map pp88-9. The rooms have sponge-painted walls. www . Antinea Apart Hotel (Map p90. cnr San Ignacio 2750 & González Suárez. room service. kitchen facilities and laundry service. Robles 513. Rooms vary in size but most have wood floors. s/d with breakfast $40/45) Set in a sleek. airy quarters with wood floors to smaller. decorative plates and gilded knickknacks that somehow don’t detract from the overall alpine charm of the place. Needless to say. %254-4600. black porcelain Hostal de La Rábida (Map pp88-9. Hostal Fuente de Piedra (Map p90. www . Hotel Los Alpes (Map pp88-9. and there’s wi-fi access.com.hotelantinea. s/d from $60/70.com. while the best quarters have vaulted ceilings and verandas. masterfully designed in a crisp.com. is) A Quito landmark. cheery yellow walls and outstanding views over Guápulo. excellent beds and a warm color scheme. Hotel Vieja Cuba (Map pp88-9. %252-5314. %322-8334. www . carpeted rooms. The clean rooms feature a mint color scheme with dark-green carpeting.hotel losalpes. s/d $61/76) This option occupies a lovely converted house with an immaculate white-wall interior and fresh. s/d $56/73) This stunning boutique hotel. midrange option has a good in the bathrooms and great attention to detail give it a deliciously luxurious atmosphere. the owners are Darwin fanatics. Veintimilla 464. and all have sizable windows (with great views in some). www. Tamayo 233. There’s a popular restaurant below. inviting lobby with a colonial color scheme and cheerfully painted rooms that face onto an interior courtyard. %250-5687.hostalrabida.ec. and wi-fi access. There are nice touches throughout. There’s a sundeck. www. %290-6729. TOP END One of Quito’s finest boutique hotels. s/d/tr $79/99/109) This atmospheric boutique hotel is set in a converted mansion with a garden. hotelsebas tian.Book your stay at lonelyplanet. Los Alpes has wild wallpaper. ceramics. Accommodation ranges from spacious. s/d from $39/49) In a handsomely restored colonial building. 215-room hotel is high on the hill above Guápulo.com.hostaldelamancha. beautiful art. 222-4417.hotelvillanancy. www. s/d with breakfast $44/69. %223-2003. s/d from $52/62.ecuahotel. Café Cultura (Map p90.com. s/d incl breakfast $39/46. s/d/tr $41/61/76.hotelsierramadre. and there’s wi-fi access.com.com. Muros 146. small garden and a living room with old black-and-white photos of Quito. There is a cozy bar with a fireplace. Vallodolid N24-562.hotelgonzalezsuarez. %256-1110. i) In a well-to-do residential neighborhood. %222-2400. www. direct-dial phones. González Suárez N27-142. pretty house with wooden shutters provides an elegant but unpretentious stay. s/d/tr with breakfast $49/59/69. www. %223-0798. Hotel Quito (Map pp88-9. good mattresses and huge windows. Two rooms have fireplaces. There’s a pleasant outdoor patio. Rodríguez E8-20. i) This friendly traveler favorite has a warm. %250-6838. neat design.hotelquito . sauna. %222-2169.com. the Sierra Madre is an inviting EcuadorianBelgian–run place. colonial Cuban theme.cafecultura . Diego de Almagro 822. Very friendly. Its . modern. Rooms have wood or terra-cotta tile floors.com/hotels Q U I T O • • S l e e p i n g 101 a small garden. www. Some rooms have balconies and all have excellent beds and tasteful furnishings.lacasasol . big windows.com. s/d/ste from $100/110/140. The priciest rooms have fireplaces. i) cated little hillside hotel has plush rooms with pine-colored carpeting.net. five-story building. Wilson 211. desks and attractive furnishings. and the wood floors throughout are polished to a sheen. this warmly remodeled mansion is the place to treat yourself.com. Calama E8-66. La Rábida 227. Suites González Suárez (Map pp88-9. www . Reservations recommended. gold-framed mirrors. Hotel Sierra Madre (Map p90. i) This sophisti- QUITO assortment of rooms in a dapper colonial house. The rooms all feature cable TV. as well as artwork and photos lining the corridors and in the rooms.
www. a TV lounge. Many restaurants close on Sunday. ECUADORIAN Cafetería Fabiolita (El Buen Sanduche. one of Ecuador’s most traditional dishes). Venezuela N3-49. if you are taking Spanish courses. with a bar. a restaurant. Fabiola EATING Old Town The historical center is where you’ll find Quito’s most traditional eateries. communal spirit. pizza lovers and those simply seeking a good café on a drizzly afternoon. mains $1-3. All are quite good. Espejo Oe4-17. h9am-7:30pm. and it also keeps lists of locals interested in hosting travelers. Leonidas Plaza Gutiérrez N20-32. The services are extensive. the Vaca Meza family has been serving one of Ecuador’s favorite dishes. guatita. Its 57 rooms are set with dark-wood floors. to yaguarlocro (blood-sausage soup) and fritada (fried pork).com.nuhousehotels . inquire at your school. apt $61-81. Fruits and veggies are available too. %2284268. kitchen privileges. Some of the bland rooms offer superb views.50-3. Breakfast is included. secos de chivo $2. s/d/ste $145/160/250) This new boutique hotel offers a touch of stylish modernism in a Scandinavian-style. Mercado Central (Map p86. South American Explorers (SAE) has a notice board full of shared-housing advertisements (see p79). Foch E6-12. a .com. h8am-4pm. some of which have been honing family recipes for generations. in this immaculate little shop beneath the cathedral. El Buen Sandwich (Map p86. to 5pm Sun) For 50 years. huge windows. Prices average between $5 and $15 per person per day. still the most authentic place to try this dish (9am to 11am only). Many apartments require a one-month minimum stay. head straight to the Mercado Central. and you’ll find everything from ubermodern sushi restaurants to classic Andean cooking served in a landmark colonial dining room. sandwiches $1. although we’ve listed some here that can be rented daily or weekly as well. hsfquito@andinanet. r per week/month from $70/180) Alberto’s has facilities that include shared hot showers. a laundry room. Low-end apartments are spacious and bright but minimally furnished. %222-4603. %254-3619. but it still attracts handfuls of business and leisure travelers. simply furnished rooms as well as two different types of apartments. apartment or suite with a kitchen. Nü House (Map p90.102 Q U I T O • • E a t i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet. between Esmeraldas and Manabí. It’s popular with volunteers thanks to its welcoming. Amaranta Apart Hotel (Map pp88-9. a swimming pool and a casino all on hand. to 3pm Sun) For stall after stall of some of Quito’s most traditional (and cheapest) foods. ceviche and sanduches de pernil (ham sandwiches). Quito’s rich and varied restaurant scene offers a fine mix of traditional fare and ethnic and international eateries. heyday was in the ’60s. English is not always spoken. Hotel San Francisco de Quito (Map p86. www.Sucre Oe3-17. where you’ll find everything from locro de papa (potato soup with cheese and avocado) and seafood. Flores and her daughter Margarita have been serving up the city’s favorite secos de chivo. Benalcázar 619. and sometimes include meals and laundry service. s/d/tr $18/25/45) This charming old-timer has a few modern apartments over its hotel (p98) in the old town. as its minimalist design makes clear. and the garrulous owner has many talents – his artwork fills the restaurant. full meals $13. La Colmena (Map p86. after all).aparthotelamaranta.com/hotels QUITO APARTMENTS & HOMESTAYS Visitors wanting to stay for a longer time may want to rent a room. %228-7758.net. Its famous sanduches de pernil even humble city politicians. Rooms are private with shared bathroom (it’s a house. %228-4823. lovely bathrooms tiled with river stones and an overly dramatic color scheme (red-velvet curtains). d $41. see p45. García 545.albertoshouse. alongside good options for vegetarians. www. the unassuming El Buen Sandwich has just three things on the menu: secos de chivo (goat stew. Alberto’s House (Map p90. For more on Ecuadorian cuisine. h9am-6pm) For more than 40 years. wood-and-glass building rising over the Mariscal.com. All budgets and tastes are catered for. a pool table and a garden with a barbecue area. while the best quarters are quite comfortable with balconies and fully stocked kitchens. Pichincha. lunch $2.50. h 11am-3pm Mon-Sat) Secreted inside a shopping gallery. %255-7845. i) Amaranta offers small. There’s a spa in the works. Map p86.
noon-5pm Sun) Inside the Centro Cultural prepared with panache at this excellent restaurant with balcony seating. mains $9-12. %228-7710. noon-5pm Sun) An over-the-top Mediterranean menu and a strictly enforced dress code (no jeans. but the views over the city are unrivaled.ec. when it’s at its Metropolitano (p80). Tianguez (Map p86. h12:30-4pm MonFri. %254-2871. head to this little-known restaurant hidden inside a colonial home on lovely Junín. www. or an early afternoon coffee. mains $4-8.30-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat) For a completely different dining experience. Hasta La Vuelta.50-8. h12. %257-1011. %258-3408. secos de chivo. 7-11pm daily) On the 2nd floor of the his- toric Teatro Sucre. Itchimbia. 2nd fl. h12:30-3:30pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat. mains $2. to 11pm Fri-Sun) liveliest. 5th fl. the drinks here are pricey. noon-10pm Sun) Country-rustic charm (cast-iron lanterns. h10am-midnight Mon-Sat.com. 9am6. the tables are a bit officelike. cnr García Moreno & Espejo. creatively concocted and extravagantly presented prix-fixe meals are served to a well-heeled crowd before the show downstairs. Mosaico is a must for an evening cocktail. Café del Teatro (Map p86. Samaniego N8-95. Bring a jacket and arrive early to beat the crowds. %295-2989. Palacio Arzobispal. as well as sandwiches and lighter fare. Palacio Arzobispal. Reliable favorites include ceviche. but the food is excellent at this new caférestaurant including imaginative salads and delicious appetizers such as tortillas de quinoa (quinoa patties) and empanadas.theatrum . wood-beam ceiling) and balcony seating set the stage for a tasty selection of grilled dishes. Chile Oe4-22. Café del Fraile (Map p86. %295-1190. %257-2552. El Buho (Map p86. %251-0113. to 9pm Fri & Sat. h8am-7. h11am-11pm) Near Antepara. Espejo Oe240. Inside. soups) as well as heartier mains. mains $2-6. 3rd fl. Manabí N8-131. Vista Hermosa (Beautiful View) delivers the goods with a magnificent 360-degree panorama over the old town from its rooftop terrace. mains $6-10. to 8pm Sun) Ecuadorian cuisine is and concrete pillars give an industrial feel to this popular and casual eatery. mains $9-20. h1pm-2am Mon-Sat. when you’ll likely have the balcony and those views all to yourself. The café tables on the patio are also a pleasant spot for coffee and dessert. brick walls Near Guayaquil. mains $6-10. peanutbased sauce. The views and romantic setting reportedly dwarf the food. Señor (Map p86. Octava de Corpus (Map p86. to 11. Palacio Arzobispal. Bullfighting greats Manolo and Manolete both ate here. h10am-9pm Mon-Thu. Reservations essential. Chile Oe4-22. sandwiches and cocktails. salads. multilevel café-restaurant with chefs whipping up corvina with shrimp sauce. Vista Hermosa (Map p86. h10am-6pm Mon & Tue. Theatrum (Map p86. %295-1401. h10am-11pm) Built in the vaulted cellar of an old-time building. INTERNATIONAL QUITO Frutería Monserrate (Map p86. Espejo Oe2-12. though empanadas and ceviche are also among the offerings. Artwork covers every surface of the place. h11am-7pm Mon-Wed. %228-9877. Live music on Wednesday to Saturday (from 9pm onwards) adds to the magic. Las Cuevas de Luís Candela (Map p86. and there’s a homey lounge with an enormous wine cellar featuring more than 230 vintages from . truta a la plancha (grilled trout) and corvina.lonelyplanet. h11am11pm Mon-Sat. El Buho serves a small selection of sandwiches. noon-9pm Sun) A much-loved newcomer to El Centro. Whether you can stomach tripe or not. Benalcázar 713 & Chile.30pm Wed-Sun) Tucked into the stone arches beneath the Monastery of San Francisco.30pm Sat & Sun) A looming ceiling. mains $5-8.30pm Mon-Fri. Recent favorites include vegetable soup. tilapia and sea bass. h10am-7pm) Grab a table on the plaza and enjoy a drink with great views of the Teatro Sucre.com Q U I T O • • E a t i n g 103 tripe-and-potato stew in a seasoned. Mea Culpa (Map p86. Junín E2-167. mains $10-15. Plaza del Teatro. Mejia 453. Chile Oe4-22. steak and other comfort food. but it remains a favorite with the well-heeled crowd. It’s one of the city’s most elegant dining rooms. you’ll find a stylish. it’s well worth sampling the original at this old-town landmark. mains $12-15. La Guaragua (Map p86. A mix of travelers and locals stop in for the filling breakfasts and giant fruit salads. %258-0887. Tables on the plaza are perfect for an evening canelazo or an afternoon te de coca (coca-leaf tea). shorts or sneakers) make this one of the old town’s premier restaurants. mains $3-5. mains $2-3. mains $6-10.50. Plaza San Francisco. Café Mosaico (Map p86. this atmospheric and windowless Spanish/ Ecuadorian restaurant has been around since 1963. this Bohemian-style café prepares tasty appetizers (tamales. burgers and ceviches. ribs. %228-9079. It stays open later when events are on at the theatre.
%228-0830.500. SEAFOOD Opened in 1950.30am-7pm MonSat. Cafetería Modelo (Map p86. %2285239.104 Q U I T O • • E a t i n g lonelyplanet. 10am-3pm Sun) The Alvarez Andino family has Pizza SA (Map p86.50. h8am-4pm. this is the Mercado Central’s most famous stall. with an excellent assortment of classic and nouveau fare. Rincón de Cantuña (Map p86. tamales and humitas. h9am-6pm Mon-Fri. juices and sweets.30pm Mon-Sat. space serving a small selection of daily vegetarian specials such as vegetarian frittata.75. There’s another version. Cafetería Modelo II (Map p86. Chile 930 & Flores. and small breakfasts and snacks are available. El Cafeto (Map p86. this casual spot with s sidewalk seating bakes up delicious. 10. h7am-10:30pm) Inside the Hotel Patio Andaluz (p99). mains $2-3. ITALIAN sitting room of this beautifully preserved but underutilized colonial house. %258-8858. This is the place to go for ceviche. this upscale restaurant serves both gourmet Spanish and Ecuadorian fare to a foreign clientele. serving huge portions of corvina (sea bass) – ask for it with rice if you don’t want it over a big bowl of ceviche. to 3pm Sun) Open since 1953. %295-0923. Sucre Oe4-48. drinks $0. mains $2-4. ice cream $1. h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) up kilos of nuts. Sucre Oe5-53. Venezuela N3-62. mains $2-3. Japanese. Rocafuerte Oe5-02 at García Moreno. Made with real fruit juices. h8am-7. Tex-Mex and Italian. h7am-7pm Mon-Sat. . VEGETARIAN been making helados de paila (ice cream handmade in big copper bowls) since 1858. cnr Sucre & García Moreno. 8am-6pm Sun) This delightful snack stand cooks Govindas (Map p86. Esmeraldas 853. mains $3-5. El Kukurucho del Maní (Map p86.50. to 4pm Sat. Free transport is provided with a reservation (which is recommended). owned coffee shop serves coffee made from 100% organic Ecuadorian beans. Thai. to noon Sun) This cozy and welcoming Ecuadorian- Corvina Don ‘Jimmy’ (Map p86. It also houses a small gallery with temporary exhibitions.30am4pm Sat & Sun) Enjoy coffee or a cold drink in the this casual but inviting newcomer serves tasty ceviche and seafood dishes. h11am-5pm Tue-Fri. drinks $1-2. this popular juice stand is hard to beat. García Moreno N6-52. Los Cebiches de la Rumiñahui (Map p86. to 9pm Sun) On a lane filled with restaurants facing the Teatro Bolívar. Mercado Central. Espressos and cappuccinos are excellent. Try passion fruit. h 11am-6pm) Near the pretty Plaza San Blas. New Town The city’s best restaurants spread across the rolling avenues of the new town. individually sized thin-crust pizzas. snacks $0. if boxy. the Krishnas here whip up tasty.50. h8. cnr Av Pichincha & Anteparra.90-2. Hidden on the 2nd floor of a commercial center. cnr García Moreno & Bolívar. %296-6844. Guayaquil 1053. mains $5-7.30am-6pm) For a freshly squeezed serving of vitamins. h10am5pm) In a recently restored colonial building.20. Venezuela N6-19. coffee $0. %2585888. offering the same trappings of old-world style (plus live music some weekend nights) on Venezuela. mains $1. quimbolitos (a sweet cake steamed in a leaf). GRILLS QUITO Pollos San Blas (Map p86. Espejo Oe2-46. this popular and casual spot is a great place for piping hot plates of roast chicken. Jugos de la Sucre (Map p86. Restaurante Vegetariano Ari (Map p86. h8am-8pm) is one of the city’s oldest cafés and a great spot to try traditional snacks such as empanadas de verde (plantain empanadas filled with cheese). %228-5082. Everyone from governors to diplomats has eaten here. The menu features classic meat and seafood (all grilled or steamed). Ari is a colorful. Casa San Lucas (Map p86. they’re more akin to sorbets. h8am-8pm MonSat. orange or a dozen other flavors. Pichincha. making this Quito’s oldest ice-cream parlor and an absolute must for ice-cream fans. Heladería San Agustín (Map p86.50. You can also enjoy sandwiches.com CAFÉS & SNACKBARS both the new and old world. salads and calzones.25-0. Convento de San Agustín. plus yogurt and granola. 9am-5pm Sun) A conveniently located and well-stocked supermarket. cnr Venezuela & Esmeraldas. h7. SELF-CATERING Magda (Map p86. corn kernels and coquitos (coconut sweets) in a giant copper kettle. h11am-11pm Mon-Sat. to 6pm Sun). fresh lunch plates from a changing menu. mains $12-17. as well as juices and fruit salad. h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) Proudly serving 100% vegetarian cuisine.
Diego de Almagro 1727. There’s a loungelike deck overlooking the street and world beats to match the eclectic fare. h1pm-midnight) Texas Ranch serves up whopping burgers (that’s the Texas part) and Argentine-style grilled meats. A full meal will cost at least $20. cnr Av Orellana & Whymper. %254-5500. English is spoken. Rincón de Francia (Map p90. mains $6-10. mains $3-6. Bohemian bistro serves a huge variety of global fare including Indian Tahli. Tasty savories and desserts fill up the menu. %222-8681. handsomely dark-wood dining room lined with black-and-white photos of old Hollywood stars. %222-6274. mains $6-9. La Choza (Map pp88-9. h11am-10pm Mon-Sat) This modest. plus sandwiches and cocktails in the elegant. Yanuna (Map p90. h24hr) Near Mera. h5pm-2am) Beneath the soundtrack of ambient grooves.lonelyplanet. caldo de manguera (tripe soup that’s said to be an aphrodisiac). dining room. La Crêperie has a spacious. h7am-8pm Mon-Fri. open-faced sandwiches. %290-6199. % 222-7388. hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat. hlunch Tue-Sun) This casual and unassuming place is extremely popular with locals .50-6. It’s owned by a family from Manabí. Portions are gigantic. Av 6 de Diciembre at Jorge Washington. mains $5-10. friendly restaurant serves tasty national specialties to a mostly foreign clientele. La Canoa (Map p90. seafood rice and grilled pork chops. contemporary design that takes nothing away from the delicious cuts of sizzling grilled beef. The ambience is pure kitsch. crepes. Peruvian ceviche and lots of vegetarian options. to 6pm Sun) Inside the Parque Itchimbia. mixed crowd gathering over inventive salads. Calama 284. La Parrilla Uruguaya (Map pp88-9. sandwiches and grilled meats and fish. vine-covered house in Floresta. Av 12 de Octubre N24-551. with colored-glass globes. mains $2. this highly regarded restaurant from Guayaquil is your best opportunity to try Ecuadorian delicacies without emptying your wallet: there’s sopa de verde (plantain soup). Greek salads. Clancy’s aims for classic European bistro decor and a wideranging menu of pizzas. mains $4-6. %250-1419. mains $6-12. Cordero E4-375. mains $35. %254-4362. Clancy’s (Map pp88-9. this new outpost of the Pim’s chain offers fantastic views over the city. to 4pm Sat & Sun) Delicious Ecuadorian food served in colorful. hnoon-midnight) In a peacefully set. %223-0839. Simple but tasty favorites include grilled fish. h noon-midnight MonFri. mains $4-6. elegant surroundings. Vicente Ramón Roca 779. %255-4525. %223-1139. Mama Clorinda (Map p90. Try the llapingachos (cornmeal cakes) with steak. the land containing arguably Ecuador’s best food. with an enclosed patio in back that gets swelteringly hot on sunny days. Boca del Lobo (Map p90. h5pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Just off the beaten path. to 4pm Sat & Sun) hip restaurant attracts a fun. Iquique. dinner for 2 $40-80) For decades. Canoa Manabita (Map p90. Mera 1140. There’s a decent wine list and live tango on Tuesday and Thursday nights. this has been one of Quito’s best-known French restaurants. mains $4-7. mains $10-24. 8pm-midnight Sat) This self-consciously Texas Ranch (Map p90. but this hole-inthe-wall restaurant serves knockout ceviche and seafood dishes at rock-bottom prices. mains $6-9. SEAFOOD Isla del Mar (pp88-9. hnoon-midnight) This colorful. comic-book form and the decor is Bohemian chic. Pim’s (Map p86. Enjoy tasty traditional Ecuadorian fare. hnoon-4pm & 7-10pm Mon-Fri. hnoon-4pm & 7-10pm) This elegantly set dining room has a trim. %222-5053. 18 de Septiembre E4-147. 8am6pm Sat & Sun) Bamboo walls and a thatched roof set the stage for hearty dishes from field and coast. risotto dishes. %223-9283. hnoon-3pm MonSun & 7-9:30pm Mon-Sat) Serves knockout Spanish QUITO seafood plates including excellent paella. La Paella Valenciana (Map pp88-9. Vietnamese pho. Tamayo N22-43. Wilson E6-35. Garcia. GRILLS La Crêperie (Map p90. empty birdcages and psychedelic paintings. mains $10-15. INTERNATIONAL haddock with capers. mains $4-8. mains $10-15. %322-8410. h252-6468. twice that if you dip into the wine. baked desserts and sugary sweet cocktails. bandera (a mixed seafood plate) and other treats. or on the outside patio.com ECUADORIAN Q U I T O • • E a t i n g 105 Casa de Campo (Map pp88-9. cnr Salazar & Toledo. Calama 247. Naranjilla Mecánica (Map pp88-9. tasty sandwiches and satisfying mains such as grilled It doesn’t look like much. %256-3349. a mix of stylish Ecuadorians and neatly dressed foreigners mingle over raclette. h7:30am-5pm Mon-Fri. The menu comes in hardback. Reina Victoria 1144. if somewhat stuffy.
carefully prepared dishes such as veggie burgers. h12:30-3pm & 7:30-11pm Mon-Sat) This longtime favorite has an outstanding and var- Bouncy Bollywood hits and sizzling platters of tikka masala make up the soundtrack to this good. The four-course set lunches ($2. vindaloo and korma. h12:30-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat. %255-7575. Wash ’em down with smooth piña coladas. mains $4-7. . hnoon-4pm & 7-10pm Tue-Fri. 9 de Octubre N22-25. h11am-10pm Mon-Sat. Mare Nostrum (Map p90. h9am-5pm) This slick little lunchtime joint serves excellent coastal specialties. Mera N24-148. despite its Mariscal location). mains $10-17. this cozy slightly upscale restaurant serves a good mix of classic Peruvian staples. and the juices are tops. grilled shrimp or seafood with rice. Av Amazonas 845. %223-7236. Foch btwn Diego de Almagro & Av 6 de Deciembre.30pm Sun) Cozy spot with outdoor tables. Mare Nostrum serves exquisite seafood dishes with both Spanish and Ecuadorian influences. delicious thincrust pizzas and the usual Italian temptations including pastas. It’s a great place.80) are a steal. h8am-5pm or 6pm) QUITO ied menu. hnoon-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat) graffiti-covered walls. %223-7659. hnoon-10pm Tue-Sat) Restaurante Manantial (Map p90. %252-0738. cnr Almagro & La Niña. % 256-9254. but doesn’t quite measure up to that sizzling plate of chicken or beef. avocado and plantain).106 Q U I T O • • E a t i n g lonelyplanet. mains $1-3. VEGETARIAN Join the locals at this excellent and affordable seafood restaurant. mains $3-5. Las Redes has a small. Try the sopa marinera or one of seven types of ceviches. Tomato (Map p90. La Briciola (Map pp88-9. Su Cebiche (Map p90. and there’s outdoor seating. %222-1053. mains $4-6. mains $6-10. mains $5-8. with several types of Ecuadorian and Peruvian ceviches on the menu. Toledo 1255. %252-6380. Red Hot Chili Peppers (Map p90. %290-0000. %254-7138. 9 de Octubre 591. steak and seafood. Other tasty menu items in this minimalist place include curry. Calama E8-40. hnoon-9pm) This well-loved restaurant serves excellent organic vegetarian food.com (and virtually unknown to many tourists. General Baquedano 358. LATIN AMERICAN La Bodeguita de Cuba (Map pp88-9. mains $4-6. mains $6-16. Mera N24-200. mains $3-5. Ristorante Pizzeria Milano (Map p90. Las Redes (Map p90. cozy dining room decorated with fish nets and stained glass. %222-7569. cnr Foch 172 & Tamayo. h8am-6pm Sun-Fri) Run by a sweet old vegan soul. mains $4-7. %254-2476. risottos and gnocchi. Start with the pulpo al olivo (marinated octopus and olives) or papa rellena (mashed potatoes stuffed with seasoned ground beef) before moving on to ceviche. Make a reservation if you hope to eat before 9:30pm. ITALIAN Le Arcate (Map p90. noon-midnight Sat & Sun) With its wooden tables and In a Gothic. plus great seafood dishes including camarones al ajillo (shrimp in garlic sauce) and sopa marinera (mixed-seafood soup). Mouth-watering servings of ceviche and seafood plates bring in the crowds. %290-6201. Reina Victoria 1721. Foch E4-314. Pizzas by the slice. lunch specials and plenty of cold draft beer bring them in. El Puerto Callao (Map p90. mains $4-6. mains $3-5. The portions are large and the wine is fairly priced. 252-8686. El Maple (Map p90. soups of the day and juices (try the filling aguacatado – blended soy milk. and serves reasonably priced lasagna. inexpensive Indian restaurant. fat calzones. Cevichería Manolo (Map pp88-9. Mera 1333. unfussy spot serving healthy. ASIAN & INDIAN Chandani Tandoori (Map p90. to 3. Live bands perform from time to time. %252-8181. Diego de Almagro 1212. hnoon-10:30pm Mon-Sat) Think fajitas – the rest of the menu is good. h11am-10pm) Overlooking a small plaza. tofu sandwiches. hnoon-2am) The pizzas aren’t Quito’s best. %252-5691. Friendly staff bring around favorites such as the highly satisfying gran ceviche mixto (mixed ceviche). castlelike building complete with knights in armor on the walls and giant wood tables and chairs. mains $5-7. this is a great place for Cuban food and fun. Manantial is a simple. but that doesn’t stop travelers and a few locals from packing this festive but low-key place most nights. noon-4pm Sun) This Mariscal favorite bakes more than 50 kinds of pizza (likely the best around) in a wood-fired oven. mains $4-7. hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat) One of the city’s best cevicherías (ceviche restaurants). hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat) This is a cozy little Cuban restaurant with Yoruba crafts adorning the walls and excellent food on the menu. Orisha (Map pp88-9.
%322-8658. stuffed eggplant. In addition to coffee and smoothies. % 254-3821. dinner for 2 $50-80. Siam (Map p90. mains $2-5. %256-4011. h1-9pm Mon-Fri) Ochún. 8:30am-6pm Sat & Sun) tender. Hassan’s Cafe (Map p90. skylights and a gardenlike front patio create an airy ambience.com Q U I T O • • E a t i n g 107 Uncle Ho’s (Map p90. mains $3-6. dine in the pleasant garden in front. www.centro-café . h8am-9pm Mon-Fri.kallari. colorfully decorated café (that’s her in the corner). Zen-like restaurant offers delicious. %223-9404.30-4pm & 6. lasagna. Calama E8-29. to 11pm Sat & Sun) Siam cooks up delicious Thai food. healthy breakfasts and lunches. %322-7378. Coffee & Toffee is a mellow and inviting place. . Noe Sushi Bar (Map pp88-9. you’ll find veggie plates. mains $3-6. mains $3-6. Café Mango Tree (Map p90. CAFÉS & SNACKBARS Café Amazonas (Map p90. goat’s cheese. fresh sushi and sashimi. wealth and happiness watches over this friendly. Carrión 442. Eat at the counter or grab an outdoor table on the quiet street in front. Live jazz. In addition to smooth Cuban coffee and strong Cuban rum.3010pm) This stylish. hnoon10. hnoon-3pm & 7-10:30pm Mon-Sat. mains $2-4. Lots of veggie options. Reina Victoria. %223-2564. to 1am Fri & Sat) This extremely popular souk-themed restaurant serves great falafel and shawarma sandwiches. Av Colombia 1222. h8am11pm). There’s good people-watching at the outdoor tables. El Cafecito (Map p90. h11am-11pm) Celebrity chef Martin Yan. h12:30-3pm & 6:30-11pm Mon-Sat. veggie plates – is good. Rivet N30-166. served in a cozy upstairs dining room amid Eastern art and relaxing music. The artwork on the walls is for sale. Café Colibri (Map p90. %222-9435. this charming café and restaurant serves tasty. Andalucía N24-234. Locals and expats alike enjoy the wi-fi and the 24-hour service. sandwiches. and whether you agree or not.com. Delicious breakfasts.com. breakfast/lunch $2/2. this popular café attracts a mix of old-timers and upstarts to its smoke-filled interior. hummus. to 8:30pm Sun) Pekin has a slightly conservative air.50. waffles. sandwiches and coffee. Uvíllas de Ochún (Map pp88-9. %223-6548.30-10pm) A pleasant café with an interior patio strung with hanging plants. meals $3-6. dinner for 2 $50-80. h12. mains $2-6. red-walled café serves set lunches ($3) as well as tapas. kebabs. Pekin (Map pp88-9. mains $3-6. called this busy Chinese restaurant the best in town (check out his autographed photo by the door). Chifa Mayflower (Map p90. snacks and drinks. www. h7am-10pm Mon-Fri. %223-5273. Kallari (Map p90. mains $2-5. and stocks its famous chocolate bars. upscale place with outstanding food. MIDDLE EASTERN Aladdin’s (Map p90. h12. teppanyaki. Calama. h24hr) Equal parts café and lounge. h8am-9pm) This small. Wilson E4-266. prosciutto. %223-6009. wine and other picnic fare. inexpensive dishes and snacks all day long. crepes. Reservations are a must on weekends. h8am-6. Centro Café (Map pp88-9. Calama E5-10. This delightful Spanish delicatessen stocks a range of old-world provisions including olives. Isabel La Católica N24-827. %229-0249. %254-0510. Kobe beef and a range of other Japanese delicacies. but Coffee & Toffee (Map p90. h1pm-midnight Mon-Fri. believe it or not. h10:30am-11pm. with warmly lit brick walls. mains $5-8. crepes (savory and sweet). %252-4818. Cordero 1124. pizzas and light fare. to 1pm Sun) This Quichua coop serves up some QUITO the owners are friendly and the food is good. fajitas. a trendy. On a warm day. mains $5-9. h9am-5pm Mon-Fri. Pinto 619. mains $3-5. 6:30-9pm Sun) This is Quito’s premier sushi restaurant. as well as sandwiches made to order. cnr Mera & Wilson. it’s definitely a great deal. Giant hookahs attract the hipsters.lonelyplanet. Whymper N28-42.30pm Mon-Sat) Sleek and slender. Foch E4-310. try the guacamole sandwich and the grilled plantain with cheese. salads and other bistro fare. On the ground floor of the popular guesthouse of the same name. glazed spare ribs and other Vietnamese hits. the Yoruban goddess of love. Big windows. 2nd fl. to 7pm Sat & Sun) A Quito classic.30pm) This German-owned café is a great spot for breakfasts. Sake (Map pp88-9. mains $2-5. blues and bossa nova livens up the space on Thursday and Friday. as well as main courses. %255-3995. For lunch. cnr Av Amazonas & Roca. visitors can sample tasty snacks. h9:30am-8pm Mon-Sat) Lebanese food – shawarmas. El Español (Map p90. Uncle Ho’s whips up tasty bowls of pho (noodle soup). fresh and cheap at this 10-table restaurant near Colón. an open kitchen and a pleasant top-floor terrace. sea bass with chili and lime over rice noodles. cnr Diego de Almagro & Baquerizo Moreno.
The classic wood-lined bar is also a good place to dig into fish and chips. Supermercado Santa María (Map pp88-9. the Magic Bean serves a variety of well-prepared breakfasts. %290-0344. Mariscal bars. Remember to always take a cab home if you’re out in the Mariscal at night (see p79). Sese serves some of Quito’s best burgers (including veggie burgers) – chow down inside or on the rooftop patio. cnr Dávalos & Versalles. FAST FOOD For movie listings and other events. Mercado La Floresta (Map pp88-9. %256-6181. head to the restaurants along Carrión between Tamayo and Av 12 de Octubre. welcoming vibe. cnr Reina Victoria & Foch. Mera N23-78. cnr La Niña & Pinzón.com QUITO Magic Bean (Map p90. DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT Most of the farra (nightlife) in Quito is concentrated in and around the Mariscal. Outdoor tables and kitschy decor set the scene. h4pm-12:30am) This cozy café-cum-bar sits on the cliffside overlooking Guápulo. burgers and other pub grub. mains $2-3. Tio Billy’s (Map p90. Ananké hosts an excellent lineup of musical talent including jazz. Besides an outstanding produce selection. For more cheap meals. this Irish-owned bar is the current favorite among expats (and a growing number of locals) for its friendly.’ when locals of both sexes flirt it up with the tourists (which can be annoying or enjoyable. with a cover charge of $5. %256-0364. head to La Floresta or Guápulo. shepherd’s pie. h 8:30am-8pm Mon-Sat. Supermaxi (Map pp88-9. Foch E5-08. hnoon-2am Mon-Sat) This tiny expat-owned spot has earned a local following for its tasty square burgers. served alongside traditional Cuban fare. sans the pickup scene. Orellana 781. Even if there’s nothing on. hlunch) One of many student hangouts in the area. cnr Dávalos & Versalles. Hamburgers del Sese (Map pp88-9. Coffee Tree (Map p90. a monthly cultural mag available free from the tourist offices. the outdoor courtyard is an idyllic spot for an evening drink. funk. or pick up a copy of Quito Cultura. There’s live music Wednesday through Saturday nights. For something far more relaxed. this dark-wood tavern offers live music (Cuban son. and the snacks – mostly Ecuadorian specialties – are tasty. h8am-5pm Fri) A small but delightful fruit market set in the peaceful Floresta neighborhood. Ananké (Map p90. which usually includes a drink. h24hr) A good place to start the night off is this outdoor bar anchoring lively Reina Victoria. There’s great people-watching from the tables on the plaza (and numerous other eating/drinking spots nearby). cnr Tamayo & Carrión. juices and snacks for the ever-present crowd of hungry travelers. cnr Galavis & Andalucía. h5pm-midnight Mon-Sat) This longtime expat watering hole is a cozy spot for a drink. In addition to the tasty wood-fired pizzas. where drinking is a more cerebral affair. hdaily) Biggest and best supermarket near the Mariscal. cumbia and reggae. mains $4-8. cnr Almagro & Pinto) The newest branch of Ananké (see above) brings Bohemian style to the Mariscal. Larrea & Pasaje Stübel. ska. white and orange. with a fireplace. bumper pool. salsa) Thursday through Saturday nights. There’s also decent pub fare including pizzas and fish and chips. h8am-5pm) This is the main produce market in the new town. h 5pm-2am) Proudly flying the green. La Reina Victoria (Map p90. SELF-CATERING Mercado Santa Clara (Map pp88-9. . mains $3-5. It also roasts its own coffee. Pinto 251. quiz nights (currently Tuesday) and pool. there are cheap food stalls. Bars with dancing often charge admission. 9am-6pm Sun) Huge supermarket conveniently across from Mercado Santa Clara. %222-3369. Café Habana (Map pp88-9. Ananké Guápulo (Map pp88-9. Reina Victoria 530. where the line between ‘bar’ and ‘dance club’ is blurry indeed. %252-6957. and Anglo pub ambience. Bars Finn McCool’s (Map p90. %252-7479. h6pmlate) This cozy bar-pizzeria sits perched on the hillside in Guápulo. Mirador de Guápulo (Map pp88-9. Calle Muros 243. h7am-10pm) Long the epicenter of the Mariscal. The views are unbeatable. for better or worse. check the local newspapers El Comercio and Hoy. Happy hour runs from 5pm to 7pm. depending on your state of mind).108 Q U I T O • • D r i n k i n g & E n t e r t a i n m e n t lonelyplanet. darts and table football. are generally raucous and notorious for ‘gringo hunting. lunches. It has a wee terrace (complete with fireplace) and several good nooks for secreting away with a cocktail and a friend. salsa. hnoon till late) Newly inaugurated in 2008. dartboard.
It’s situated between Flores and Guayaquil. %223-5194. You can either call or check the website for other performances.elpobrediablo. Performances range from jazz and classical music to ballet. Blues can be great fun (sometimes the DJs and crowd disappoint). and depending on the night. %295-2025. admission $25) This folkloric ballet is as touristy as it is spectacular. Blues is the now standing gloriously over the Plaza del Teatro.com.lonelyplanet. 6pm-midnight Sat) Live music. Café Libro (Map p90. Arrive early to avoid being turned away. Mexican-style dishes etc) is decent. world music. h7pm-3am Wed-Sat) The favorite Mariscal dance spot among foreigners. El Aguijón (Map p90. www. www.teatrosucre . everything from theatrical works to international tango-electronica gigs. %228-2136. The small but lively dance floor. Manabí N8-131. García 662) This popular salsa club is small and conveniently located in the Mariscal. with live bands on Thursday and salsa on Wednesday. The atmosphere is fun and the food (snacks. and has a local following. h222-3206. The space is open and somewhat industrial. modern dance and opera. The music is tops. hticket office 10am-1pm & 2-6pm) Recently restored and salsa fans. in Spanish. English and Irish pubs have long been the rave in Quito. h5:30pm Wed) This excellent theater and dance group place party-goers head at 3am. www . If you don’t know how to salsa. Well-respected international DJs spin here. DJs spin a little of everything on weekends. buzzy place. www. %256-5544. %223-4265. %255-8086. Performances and tours are still given. Turtle’s Head (Map pp88-9. Leonidas Plaza Guitierrez N23-56. % 258-2486/7. hnoon-1am) Zócalo is a popular. this is the city’s most historical theater. try a few classes first (see p94). and is . with video art playing on a large screen above the dance floor. and most serve food. Café Toledo (Map pp88-9. Calama E7-35. %222-6116.bluesestodo . It’s a friendly. h9pm-3am Tue-Sat) This excellent and unpretentious nightclub in the Mariscal attracts a good ratio of 20-something locals and foreigners. mellow place for live music. presents Andean dance performances. cnr Avs Patria & 12 de Octubre. Garcia E7-36. h10pm-6am ThuSat) Quito’s only late-night club. Theater & Dance Teatro Sucre (Map p86. poetry slams.com. admission $5) Small.human izarte. Mayo 68 (Map p90. experimental sounds) performing most nights. Devoted salseros (salsa dancers) turn up on Thursday. admission $5-10. Bungalow 6 (Map p90. reggae and British and North American hits. La Niña 626) Raucous spot with decent beer and food. admission $3-5. www. admission $7-15. Veintimilla & Av 12 de Octubre. hnoon-2pm & 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri. Católica E12-06. Teatro Bolívar (Map p86. cnr Mera & Calama. admission $5.com. good drink specials and popular events nights (including as Ladies night on Wednesday) always attract a festive crowd.org. Leonidas Plaza Gutiérrez N24-226. %223-3929. Humanizarte (Map p90. 2nd-floor location. It is presented daily at the Teatro Demetrio Agilera at the Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana (p87). hnoon-3pm & 7pm2am Mon-Sat) Locals and expats rate El Pobre Nightclubs Hitting the dance floor of one of Quito’s salsotecas is a must.com Q U I T O • • D r i n k i n g & E n t e r t a i n m e n t 109 Zócalo (Map p90. jazz and other performances draw an artsy and intellectual crowd to this handsomely set Bohemian venue.com. the atmosphere is superb and the dancing is first-rate. QUITO Live Music oEl Pobre Diablo (Map pp88-9. Espejo) Likely the city’s most illustrious theater and definitely one of its most important. cnr Calama & Almagro. %256-3598. Bungalow 6 plays a good mix of beats – salsa. Av República 476. situated right in the hub of the Mariscal Sucre.com. contemporary dance. with a prime. Seseribó (Map pp88-9. in Spanish. laid-back place with a well-curated selection of talent (jazz. %290-1476. The most popular include the following: Kilkenny (Map p90. admission $5-20. DJs spin electronica and rock (with live rock bands playing on Thursday nights) to a style-conscious quiteño crowd. tango.teatrobolivar. It’s also a great place to dine. Ballet Folklórico Nacional Jacchigua (Map pp88-9. www . h9pm-2am Thu-Sat) Quito’s best salsoteca is a must-stop for Diablo as one of Quito’s best places to hear live music. the Bolívar is currently undergoing restoration work after a fire nearly burnt it to the ground.jacchigua. a solid cocktail menu and a great vibe. Edificio Girón. huntil late) Rockin’ Irish bar. blues.cafelibro . cnr Lérida E12-12 & Toledo. with delectable fusion fare. which makes it a great night to go. www.com. Blues (Map pp88-9. admission $5. with live music on Saturday nights from 8pm.
Tamayo N22-43. Tianguez (Map p86. If buying from street stalls. state-of-the-art cinemas. in Spanish. although bargaining is not out of the question. It has mostly furniture. linen.ec.com quite a show. so it’s an excellent cause. %254-0380. %252-7105. this is the place to go for the very best and most expensive crafts in town. Urbina 111) This sweet artisans’ cooperative is crammed with reasonably priced crafts. Centro Comercial Iñaquito. jewelry. SHOPPING Arts & Crafts There are loads of excellent crafts stores in the new town along and near Avenida Amazonas. %254-7572.ochoymedio. plus panama hats. El Aborigen (Map p90. Ag (Map p90. %254-8235. colorful Andean weavings. Naciones Unidas & Av América. Fisch was a Hungarian artist who immigrated to Ecuador in 1939 and worked with indigenous artists melding traditional crafts with fine art – her unique designs are stunning. %222-5844. %2541315. La Bodega (Map p90. if you have the time and inclination to search them out.com. Mera N22-24) Ag’s selection of rare. Ocho y Medio (Map pp88-9. theater and live music. Washington E4-141) This tiny shop has a lovely collection of highquality crafts: colorful masks. glassware and even chocolate liqueur and honey. www. Productos Andinos (Map p90. you should bargain.ec. or buy them at the door or online. Mercado Artesanal La Mariscal (Jorge Washington btwn Mera & Reina Victoria) Half a city block filled with crafts stalls (and the usual hippie bracelets. both old and new. hand-painted picture frames. www . but beautiful boxes. %290-4720/21/22. %255-0276. %222-4565. La Bodega stocks a wide and wonderful range of high-quality crafts. %250-8953. The most recent Hollywood blockbusters are shown at Cinemark (Map p82. Centro Artesanal (Map p90. Teatro Prometeo (Map pp88-9. Mera N23-69) This well-stocked handicrafts shop offers an excellent selection of high-quality items: tagua carvings. %225-9677. sweaters and handmade items from across Latin America. It’s great for souvenirs. frames and wall hangings too. %222-6116. Valladolid N24-353 & Vizcaya. usually at 8pm. 8pmmidnight Sat) Above the stylish restaurant-lounge . Folklore Olga Fisch new town (Map pp88-9. Av Amazonas N21-20) Boasts a huge selection of handicrafts. Contact any travel agency or upper-end hotel for tickets. Galería Latina (Map p90. h noon-midnight Mon-Fri. with good prices and mixed quality. in the fancier stores. old town (Map p86. There’s a small café attached. Note that souvenirs are a little cheaper outside Quito. ponchos and even a couple of body piercing stalls).110 Q U I T O • • S h o p p i n g lonelyplanet.cinemark. hcafé 11am-10:30pm) This Floresta film house shows great art films (often in English) and has occasional dance. perfect for your next indigenous party. García Moreno N652. There are also antiques including rarities such as vaca loca (crazy cow) costumes. in Spanish. admission $4). www. %256-1902. this is the retail outlet for a cooperative of woodworkers from throughout the highlands. designer Olga Fisch (who died in 1991). formed to give people an alternative to immigrating to cities. Latino Americana (Map p90. %226-0301. Hotel Patio Andaluz) The store of legendary QUITO Cinemas Most Quito cinemas show popular Englishlanguage films with Spanish subtitles. Clothing Zoom Fashion House (Map pp88-9. % 252-6468. Mera N22-24) In business for 30-odd years. this inexpensive venue often has modern-dance performances and other shows that non-Spanish speakers can enjoy. Plaza San Francisco) Attached to the eponymous café (p103). textiles. Colón 260).multicines. Av 6 de Diciembre 794) Affiliated with the Casa de La Cultura Ecuatoriana (p87).com. in Spanish. ceramics. Tianguez is a member of the Fair Trade Organization and sells outstanding crafts from throughout Ecuador. handmade silver jewelry from throughout South America is outstanding. Patio de Comedías (Map p90. Washington 614) More like an arts-and-crafts supermarket! Huge selection and good prices. jewelry and alpaca wear. Arte Sacra (Map p90. too. Mera E511) This excellent shop is known for canvases painted by local Indian artists. Centro Artístico Don Bosco (Map pp88-9. prices are normally fixed. 18 de Septiembre 457) Presents plays and performances Thursday through Sunday nights. Mariana de Jesús Oe1-92) Near Calle 10 de Agosto. both multiscreen. % 254-7572. Check the quality carefully. admission $4) and Multicines (Map p82.net.
%222-6290. Shopping Centers Centros comerciales (shopping malls) are nearly identical to their North American counterparts.rosyrevelo . www.lonelyplanet.30pm Mon-Fri. Centro Comercial El Jardín (Map pp88-9. %295-3337.genuinepanamahat.%245-8616. see p391 and p395.quiport. Mera N22-44) Stocks good-quality climbing. The following are Ecuador’s principal domestic airlines. %246-4512. exclusive gallery isn’t cheap. For domestic and international flight and airline information. Av Amazonas & Naciones Unidas) Centro Comercial Quicentro (Map p82. %224-0538. Queseras del Medio s/n. Rosy Revelo (Map p90. QUITO Outdoor Supplies Mono Dedo La Floresta (Map pp88-9. MarsuArte main gallery (Map pp88-9. Avs Patria & Amazonas. although project delays are likely. cards. %222-9584. Av Amazonas & Av de la República) during the weekend art fair. offering a small but versatile selection of its famous Cuenca brand. Reina Victoria 326) With more than 30 years in the art busi- . the construction of a new. Rafael Leon Larrea N24-36. Av 12 de Octubre 1820) This Centro Comercial Iñaquito (Map p82. Aeropuerto Mariscal Sucre (Map p82. Benalcazar N2-52. larger airport.30am6. Av 6 de Diciembre at Checoslovaquia) Chilean-born painter Carlos Tapia Catasse is one of Quito’s premier (if not mainstream) contemporary artists. Av 6 de Diciembre 4475 at Portugal). %2259444. It’s scheduled to open in 2010. with just a handful of places exhibiting and selling local work. %255-0911.monodedo. Galería Beltrán (Map p90. rafting and other gear for outdoor adventures. Av Amazonas 7797) Near the airport. %222-6407. h9. The work here consists mostly of imitations of established Ecuadorian artists. 25km east of the city center. and sell international brands.com. clothing. Reina Victoria 928) Another shop that sells and rents camping and mountaineering equipment. %256-3022. www. the teacher and primary influence on the better-known artist Guayasamín. Rocódromo (Map pp88-9. Zoom is a trim little men’s and women’s boutique selling eye-catching urban and beachwear from both Dutch and Ecuadorian designers. etchings and jewelry line the walls and shelves.com. Also pop into La Bodega (opposite). %294-4900. Mera N22-37) Brilliantly hued canvases and tiny craftlike items adorn the walls of this colorful gallery. Wilson 712 at Mera) Pop into this hipster boutique for a look at some eyecatching graphic T-shirts by local urban designer Cholo Machine. tents. www.com. Posada de Artes Kingman (Map pp88-9. with the widest choice of routes provided by TAME: AeroGal (%225-7301. to 1. but it’s cheap and colorful. Galería Catasse (Map pp88-9.30pm Sat) One of Ecuador’s ness. Galleries Quito’s gallery scene is pretty limited. Diego de Almagro 1550 at Pradera) This small but well-stocked gallery is dedicated to the works of Ecuadorian painter Eduardo Kingman. Explorer (Map p90.30pm Sat). www . Most stores are closed Sunday. this art gallery sells paintings by wellknown Ecuadorian artists. bags and more. T-shirts. Ecuadorian artist Revelo has exhibited her abstract and intriguing pieces in galleries across the globe. Av Amazonas at Av de la Prensa) serves all international and domestic flights in and out of the capital. h11am-7pm Mon-Fri. Small climbing wall in front. was well underway.com. Prints. %2980300. They all have fast-food restaurants inside. but it’s one of the few in town where you can get a look at some of the country’s most established artists. in Spanish.com. %254 1283. Av 6 de Diciembre & Naciones Unidas) GETTING THERE & AWAY Air As this book went to press. Mele Sport (Map p90.com Q U I T O • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 111 Naranjilla Mecánica (p105). in Spanish. It’s located about 10km north of downtown – see p113 for bus and taxi information on getting there. The Rocódromo (p93) branch has more gear.quitoairport . 225-8086/7. Homero Ortega P & Hijos (Map p86. Quito’s current airport.marsuarte. in Spanish. CCI.30am-1. but the following malls are open every day from about 10am to 8:30pm. Cholo Machine (Map p90. %2222610. 9:30am-5pm Sat & Sun) Outstanding climb- biggest sellers of Ecuadorian straw hats (aka panama hats). which usually has some excellent art on hand. h11am-7:30pm Mon-Fri.com for the latest info.cholo machine. www. www . 9. Visit www.com. Swissôtel (Map pp88-9. h9am-dusk Sat & Sun) ing store with rock and ice gear. Galería Catasse is worth a visit if you’re an art hound. The most popular place to purchase paintings is Parque El Ejido Art Fair (Map pp88-9. %222-1732.
as well as numerous buses per hour to popular places such as Ambato or Otavalo. Don’t take the Trole if you’re loaded with luggage. %255-3690. Cooperativa Flor de Valle/Cayambe (%252-7495) goes daily to Mindo from Quito’s Terminal Terrestre La Ofelia. will handle destinations south of Quito. Car Car rental in Quito.com. There is a $0. 09-379-1889. in Spanish. Alternatively. renting a more expensive 4WD vehicle is a good idea). Approximate fares and travel times are shown in the boxed table (left). Split with a group. or Transportes Ecuador (Map p90. Several new terminals are scheduled to open at some point in the future (city officials couldn’t pin down a date at the time of research).50 9 10 9 7 10 2. % 222-5315. 290-9900. Loja. 245-1499. %250-9375/6/7/8. as with elsewhere in Ecuador.50 15 9 8 2 9 12 5 4 6 2. Mera N21-44). Panamericana QUITO also has long-distance buses to other towns. Manta and Esmeraldas.ec. in Spanish). Av 6 de Diciembre 1570 near Wilson) Destination Ambato Atacames Bahía de Caráquez Baños Coca Cuenca Esmeraldas Guayaquil Huaquillas Ibarra Lago Agrio Latacunga Loja Machala Manta Otavalo Portoviejo Puerto López Puyo Riobamba San Lorenzo Santo Domingo Tena Tulcán Cost ($) 2 9 9 3. %245-0928. Terminal Quitumbe (Av Cóndor Ñan. Swissôtel (%256-9130. 09-824-5152).112 Q U I T O • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet. TAME (Map p90. Av Amazonas at Av de la Prensa). A few buses leave from other places for some destinations in the Pichincha province. Check with the tourist office for the latest information on the terminals – and BUSES FROM QUITO where your particular bus will depart from – before heading to the bus station. Maldonado at Javier Piedra). Terminal Carapungo. Av Amazonas 1354 at Colón) Bus Quito’s main bus terminal is the Cumandá Bus Terminal (Map p86. Av Cristóbal Colón (pp88-9.com. Palora 124 at Av Amazonas) Across from the airport runway. It can be reached by walking down the steps from Maldonado. 245-9052. reachable by taking the Metrobus line to the last stop. 254-0000. 255-1839. it’s quite affordable. Av Colón 1280 near Av Amazonas) Hertz airport (%225-4257. After 6pm you should take a taxi. near Av Mariscal Antonio José de Sucre). Cuenca. airport (p82. who will drive you anywhere in the country (provided there are roads) in a van for up to 10 people. %224-0763.budget-ec. it’s notorious for pickpockets. www. Av Amazonas at Av de la Prensa). Car-rental companies: Avis (%244-0270) At the airport. %223-7026.50 7 1. just south of Plaza Santo Domingo in the old town.20 departure tax from the bus terminal.com Icaro (Map p82. plus the price of his hotel room. Rental vehicles are useful for visiting some out-of-the-way areas that don’t have frequent bus connections (in which case. Av Amazonas at Av de la Prensa). Av Colón btwn Reina Victoria & Diego de Almagro). cnr Avs Amazonas & Av Cristobal Colón) Ecuacar airport (p82. or by taking the Trole (see opposite) to the Cumandá stop. 250-5986. %252-9781. as this is an unsafe area at night. See p149 for departure times. contact Ivan Segovia at Edivanet (%264-6460. located 5km southwest of the old town. is expensive – taxis and buses are much cheaper and more convenient than renting a car. will service northern Ecuador. Amazonas (pp88-9. For comfortable buses to Guayaquil from the new town. There are daily departures for each destination and several departures per day to most of them. Budget (www. The cost is about $60 per day. %224-7298.50 6 5 Duration (hr) 2½ 7 8 3 9 (via Loreto) 10-12 5-6 8 12 2½ 7-8 2 14-15 10 8-9 2¼ 9 12 5½ 4 6½ 3 5-6 5 . travel with Panamericana (Map p90. including Machala.icaro . located in the north of the city. See p399 for more car-rental information. Av 12 de Octubre 1820) Localiza (%250-5974.
Cabs are legally required to use their taxí-metros (meters). As the fastest form of public transport. Car Driving in Quito can be a hectic experience. The line was out of commission at the time of research. and drivers will (usually) gladly tell you which bus to take if you flag the wrong one. Taxi Cabs are all yellow and have red ‘taxi’ stickers in the window. Each runs north–south along one of Quito’s three main thoroughfares. they’re also crowded and notorious for pickpockets. drivers will ask for a higher fare. but watch your bags and pockets on crowded buses. making them speedy and efficient.25. visit www.quiport. A weekend tourist train normally heads south from Quito for about 3½ hours to the Area Nacional de Recreación El Boliche. catch a cab just outside the airport on either side of Avenida Amazonas. Sincholagua & Vicente Maldonado) is about 2km south of the old town. %258-2921. Public Transportation BUS Local buses all cost $0. especially in the old town. the blue Bus Tipos are the most common and allow standing. The Trole runs along Maldonado and Avenida 10 de Agosto. Buses have destination placards in their windows (not route numbers). A few taxi companies include Rodan Taxi (%248-5888). h8am4:30pm Mon-Fri). about 10km north of the old town. Sundays and rainy days can leave you waiting 10 minutes for an empty cab.25 to $0.50 more than if the meter was on. and each has designated stations and car-free lanes. adjoining Parque Nacional Cotopaxi (p155). In the old town. Bolívar 443. between Río Coca in the north and La Marin in the south.lonelyplanet. The trains are old-fashioned with primitive bathroom facilities (part of the fun). many however charge a flat rate of $2 between the old and new towns. Buy tickets in advance at the train ticket office (Map p86. They run about every 10 minutes from 6am to 12:30am (more often in rush hours) and the fare is $0. but rush hour. each identified by color: . but it should never be more than twice the metered rate. The old airport is at the north end of Avenida Amazonas. To save a couple of dollars. southbound trolleys take the west route along Guayaquil. the Ecovía and the Metrobus. It terminates at the Quitumbe bus terminal. but are more infrequent. A new voucher system from the airport offers fixed rates – current charges are $6 into the new town and $8 to the old town.com to check if it’s operational before you depart. while the red ejecutivo buses don’t allow standing and are therefore less crowded. When a driver tells you the meter is broken.com Q U I T O • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d 113 Train Although most of Ecuador’s train system is in shambles. A taxi is the best way to get into town. City Taxi (%253-3333) and Occidentaxi (%249-2222). ask at the tourist office or train ticket office for the latest info. There are various types. Usually there are plenty available. They are safe and convenient. about 150m away from the terminal’s front entrance. most streets are one-way. inquire at your hotel for the nearest. Remember.25 – pay as you board. There are private garages throughout town where you can park overnight for around $10. Because of this. TROLE. while northbound trolleys take the east route along Montúfar and Pichincha. and many passengers ride on the roof. flag down another cab. and most drivers do. The Metrobus route runs along Avenida América from the Universidad Central del Ecuador (northeast of Parque El Ejido) to north of the airport. If you’re going from the airport into town. and on Sunday the streets in the old town are closed to traffic. you can still ride the rails if you’re determined. %265-6142. you will find bus stops on Avenida 10 de Agosto. The Ecovía runs along Avenida 6 de Diciembre. it’s not recommended to use the Trole when traveling to or from the airport. Leaving your car (or a rental car) on the street overnight is asking to have it stolen. ECOVÍA & METROBUS QUITO GETTING AROUND To/From the Airport Quito’s new airport is scheduled to open in 2010. 5km southwest of the old town. about $0. The Quito train station (Map p86. Many of the northbound buses on Avenidas 10 de Agosto and Amazonas go there (look for Aeropuerto and Quito Norte placards). Late at night and on Sunday. Quito has three electric bus routes: the Trole.
as do the magnificent hot springs of Termas de Papallacta (p233). QUITO AROUND QUITO 0 0 8 km 4 miles Reserva Geobotánica Pululahua AROUND QUITO %02 Rumicucho Equator Moraspungo Calacalí La Mitad del Mundo San Antonio Quito makes a great base for exploring the striking geography and biodiversity of the region. h9am-5:30pm). Also at La Mitad del Mundo is an impressive 1:200 scale model of colonial Quito. Nearby. you could hire a cab for a day for about $60. If you bargain hard and don’t plan on going very far. As well as the destinations covered in this section. Travel agencies in Quito (p79) also offer day trips to most of the places covered here. admission $2. It is the centerpiece of the park. Of course. Otavalo (69km) Calderón n amer icana a Volcán Rucu Pichincha (4700m) Volcán Guagua Pichincha (4794m) Aeropuerto Mariscal Sucre Cerro Cruz Loma (3945m) To Las Cuevas de Alvaro (22km). Pomasqui Nono P Guayllabamba To new Airport (10km).114 A R O U N D Q U I T O • • L a M i t a d d e l M u n d o lonelyplanet. to 7pm Sat & Sun) is the place where Charles-Marie de La Condamine made the measurements in 1736 showing that this was indeed the equatorial line. Lloa See Metropolitan Quito Map (p82) Cerro Ilaló (3185m) El Tingo Sangolquí Cerro Atacazo (4457m) Amaguaña Tambillo Píntag LA MITAD DEL MUNDO Ecuador’s biggest claim to fame (and name) is its location right on the equator. but if you don’t mind the crowds they can be great days to visit because of the live music on the outdoor stage between 1pm and 6pm. Sundays are busy with quiteño families. His expedition’s measurements gave rise to the metric system and proved that the world is not perfectly round. containing a viewing platform and an ethnographic museum. housed in the Museo del Quito en Miniatura (admission $2. La Mitad del Mundo (The Middle of the World City. h9am-6pm Mon-Fri. there is simply no excuse to come this far and not see it. Listening to a nine-piece salsa band rip up the equatorial line beneath the bright Andean sunshine can be quite an experience. Short journeys will start at that and climb to about $4 for a longer trip. A light show takes you from dawn in the miniature city to late at night. stone trapezoidal monument (admission $3) topped by a brass globe. Otavalo (p122) can be visited on a long day trip from Quito. which provides a good introduction to the indigenous groups of Ecuador through dioramas. Despite the touristy nature of the equator monument that now sits here. but that it bulges at the equator. Taxis are an option if you have between $30 and $60 to spare. Termas de Papallacta (37km) Cumbaya Tumbaco Pifo Getting There & Away Destinations in this section can all be reached by public bus in less than two hours. . You just have to get into the spirit of things. which is a great way to see outer city sites. h9am-5:30pm) presents a variety of astronomy shows. The train ride to El Boliche recreation area in Parque Nacional Cotopaxi also makes for a spectacular outing (see p155).com The minimum fare is $1. the planetarium (admission $2. with a number of excellent day trips from the capital. there are plenty of gift shops selling postcards and cheap souvenirs. You can also hire a cab for about $8 per hour. Alóag Panamer ic a na Refugio de Vida Silvestre Pasochoa To Latacunga (54km) Cerro Pasochoa (4200m) At the center of La Mitad del Mundo stands a 30m-high. clothing displays and photographs.
Little is known of the 1000-year-old culture. the more you hear about the equator’s mysterious energy. La Mitad del Mundo is not on the equator – but it’s close. More interesting than the official complex next door. supposedly (but again not actually) the site of the true equator. But what is fact and what is fiction? There’s no point in starting softly. Calima Tours (%239-4796/7).3%. h9:30am-5:30pm). Getting There & Away La Mitad del Mundo is 22km north of Quito. From Quito. however. More fascinating than any of the hoaxes perpetuated by Inti Ñan and Ciudad Mitad del Mundo. Researchers claim it’s a crock.’ a unique instrument made in 1865 that shows precise astronomical and conventional time. The real reason to come. It is true that the spring and autumn equinoxes are the only days when the sun shines directly overhead at the equator. donations accepted. but you’ll have to decide for yourself if it’s just a smoke-and-mirrors funhouse.com A R O U N D Q U I T O • • L a M i t a d d e l M u n d o 115 QUITO MYSTERIES FROM MIDDLE EARTH The idea of standing with one foot in each hemisphere is an intriguing one. is the one-room Museo de la Cultura Solar (www. From there. The name of the site is Catequilla. The informational museum is run by the Quitsato scientific research center. not the approximately 1. with tours led by indigenous guides (around $25 per person). which astoundingly coincide with other equinoctial points.25) north to the last stop. adult/child under 12 $2/1. One of the highlights of the Museo Solar Inti Ñan is the demonstration of water draining counterclockwise north of the equator and clockwise 3m away. Ofelia station. One of the highlights is the ‘solar chronometer. This is due to greater centrifugal force on the equator than at the poles. But the difference between here and at the poles is only about 0. considering it includes the $5 park entrance fee. south of the equator. Global Positioning System (GPS) devices show that it’s only about 240m off the mark. a few steps east of La Mitad del Mundo complex. h9:30am-5:30pm).org. Just outside. transfer to the Mitad del Mundo bus – they’re clearly . aside from their magnificent equatorial and solar calculations. In fact. Draining water spins the way it does due to plumbing. a few hundred meters from La Mitad del Mundo. that’s what defines an equinox.5% to 2% the scales at the monument imply. visitors can learn about the real site of the equator. which happens to be on a hill called Catequilla visible across the highway. More sights are still being discovered all over the country. and the closer you get to the equator. But that doesn’t mean the days and night are equal in length. located inside the complex. to the amusing Museo Solar Inti Ñan (%239-5122. And no one who sees the photos of you straddling the equator has to know this.quitsato. It’s a good price. The Coriolos Force – which causes weather systems to veer right in the northern hemisphere and left in the southern hemisphere – has no effect on small bodies of water like those in a sink or a toilet. and the day depends on where you are on the planet.00 degrees according to GPS readings) resides on a sacred indigenous site constructed more than 1000 years ago. as well as the month. eddies in the water. It also goes to Rumicucho archaeological site (p116). Zero degrees latitude lies on an old indigenous site that was only discovered by researchers in the late 1990s. right? Another tough one to swallow is the myth of the flushing toilet.lonelyplanet. This is also a good place to inquire about hikes to the real equator. so let’s debunk the biggest one first. near the village of San Antonio. and visitors can learn more about this mysterious place in the Museo de la Cultura Solar (below). day and season – all by using the rays of the sun. take the Metrobus ($0. as many would have you believe – this happens just before the spring equinox and just after the autumn equinox. arranges short hikes ($8 per person) around the crater rim of nearby Pululahua. is for the water and energy demonstrations. it’s a meandering outdoor exhibition with fascinating exhibits of astronomical geography and explanations of the importance of Ecuador’s geographical location. Continue east. Here. of course. How about some truth: you do weigh less on the equator. the shape of the basin and other factors. is the fact that the true equator (0.
the larger Loma Pondoña (2975m) and the smaller Loma El Chivo. The transfer costs an additional $0. is located inside the crater. There are occasional buses from San Antonio to Calacalí. www. . Ask the driver to drop you off there. is between $5 and $8. d from $100) Near the Ventanillas viewpoint. About 1km along this road. which you must pay before you hike down into the crater or as you enter by car via Moraspungo. it was moved there after being replaced by the enlarged replica now at La Mitad del Mundo. currently open on weekends only. the vegetation grows undisturbed and protected. because most of the flat bottom is farmed. but there are good views of Quito in the distance. El Crater (%243-9254. and there probably won’t be anyone else around. There are many flowers and a variety of bird species. Alternatively. RUMICUCHO About 3. h9am-3pm Mon-Fri. The moist winds. create a variety of microclimates and the vegetation on the fertile volcanic slopes is both rampant and diverse. In the colorful village of Calacalí. about 7. RESERVA GEOBOTÁNICA PULULAHUA This 3383-hectare reserve lies about 4km northwest of La Mitad del Mundo. when the cone of the volcano collapsed. Pululahua Hostel offers a handful of simple. Because the walls are much too steep to farm. 09-981-1653. This was apparently formed in ancient times. comfortable rooms in a pristine setting. It’s not Ecuador’s most impressive site. 8am4pm Sat & Sun) was built around 500 BC by the Quitu-Cara culture and used principally as a ceremonial site during the equinoxes. leaving a huge crater some 400m deep and 5km across. The owners cook tasty meals (mains $2 to $4) using ingredients from their organic farm whenever possible. El Crater offers a touch of luxury in its 12 suites. English and German are spoken. which opened fairly recently. Rooms are nicely outfitted with king-sized beds and loads of amenities.5km northwest of La Mitad del Mundo. and they currently leave from the far-right platform as you roll up. The site is officially open during the hours listed above. there is a small parking area at the viewpoint. and you can volunteer to work on the farm with (two-week minimum commitment). The crater can be entered on foot by a steep trail from the Mirador de Ventanillas viewpoint on its southeast side (easily reached by bus from La Mitad del Mundo). The most interesting part of the reserve is the volcanic crater of the extinct Pululahua. particularly on weekends. Sleeping & Eating Pululahua Hostel (%09-946-6636. and the entire trip takes one to 1½ hours. continue on the road to Calacalí for 3km. pre-Columbian archaeological site (admission $1. dm per person $12.com/hotels marked.15 (pay on the bus). The crater is open to the west side. which brings you to a sign for Moraspungo to the right. Within the crater there are two small cones. but you can walk in at anytime. From the turnoff. Guests can use the Jacuzzi. hire bikes ($3 per hour) or horses ($8 per hour). The crater’s flat and fertile bottom is used for agriculture. the (much smaller) original equatorial monument can be seen. About 4km beyond La Mitad del Mundo on the road to Calacalí is the first paved road to the right. The bus drops you right in front of the entrance. a paved road continues to the village of Calacalí. There Getting There & Away From La Mitad del Mundo. through which moisture-laden winds from the Pacific Ocean blow dramatically.pululahuahos tal. and all have superb views over the volcanic crater. cabañas $24-36) This ecologically friendly guesthouse.com. See p115 for information on inexpensive tours.5km away. You pay the entry fee of $5 per person at Moraspungo. is also an unpaved road on the southwest side via Moraspungo. Walk all the way through – the best views are from the side furthest from the entrance. QUITO Information The official entrance fee for the reserve is $5. combined with the crater’s steep walls. there are no charges for viewing from the Ventanillas viewpoint.116 A R O U N D Q U I T O • • R u m i c u c h o Book your stay at lonelyplanet. including waiting time. serves good food to outstanding views. It is sometimes difficult to see the crater because of the swirling clouds and mist. this small. it’s 3km to Moraspungo and about 12km more into the crater. The restaurant onsite. Taxis to Rumicucho are available in San Antonio (the town near La Mitad del Mundo) – the round-trip fare. The steep trail is the best way to see the birds and plants.
www. 233-2004. take an interparroquial bus from Plaza La Marín in the old town. Refugio de Vida Silvestre Pasochoa lies about 30km south of Quito. There are latrines. a fruit whose creamy center is slightly tart and pure ecstasy. and both routes end at Cayambe (p121). ferns. There are a few African and Asian species but the highlight is the Ecuadorian animals including the rare Andean spectacled bear and Galápagos turtles. otherwise. with the secondbiggest day on Thursday. games area and a large restaurant.com A R O U N D Q U I T O • • C a l d e r ó n 117 CALDERÓN This village is about 10km northeast of Quito on the Panamericana (not the road to La Mitad del Mundo). with more than 100 species of birds. The park ranger will give you a small trail map. ranging from small statuettes to colorful Christmas tree ornaments such as stars. SANGOLQUÍ Sangolquí’s bustling Sunday-morning market is Quito’s nearest indigenous market. bromeliads. at elevations between 2900m and 4200m. whose impressive church and Virgin of El Quinche draws crowds from Quito during its November festival.lonelyplanet. It is a 30-minute drive from Quito. a small town set in a fertile river valley of the same name that is famous for its produce. barbecue grills and water. Sunday is the best day to visit. leads out of the reserve and to the summit of Pasochoa (4200m). sauna. Hostería La Carriona (%233-1974. Santas. The market actually runs all week (though to a much smaller extent). There are many stores selling the crafts on the main street. the Ecuadorian Andes’ only native conifer (the pines seen elsewhere are introduced). One trail. the road forks.5km southwest of Sangolquí. Local buses head here from Plaza This small but beautiful wildlife reserve (admission $7. or the intersection of Avenida Cristóbal Colón and Avenida América in the new town. La Marín in Quito’s old town. The old architecture is fronted by a cobbled courtyard and is surrounded by flower-filled gardens. Try to stop off at the roadside stands selling enormous avocados and bumpy green chirimoya. There is also a simple shelter (dm $5) with 20 bunk beds. guides are available for the longer walks. steam bath. The ornaments make practical gifts as they are small. h9am-5pm Tue-Sun). Buses from Quito’s Plaza Italia to Guayllabamba make the trip. Fundación Natura (%254-7399. Some 3km beyond Guayllabamba. which takes about eight hours. 236-8898. you pass a turnoff that leads back to Quito via El Quinche. bring your own food. candles and tropical fish. Getting There & Away This is the tricky part. The luxuriant forest contains a wide range of highland trees and shrubs including the Podocarpaceae.com. tortoises. The road passes through countryside and tiny hamlets to the town of Pifo. picnic areas. lichens and other epiphytic plants also contribute to the beauty. on the road to Amaguaña. from the cozy rural rooms to lavish suites. hot showers and kitchen facilities. Overnight camping (per person $3) is permitted in designated areas. unusual and cheap (buy a handful for $2). It also has a pool. Orchids. bring your own sleeping bag. parrots. admission $3. Moreno Bellido E6-167) in Quito. Buses leave from Plaza La Marín in . It has one of the central valley’s last remaining stands of humid Andean forest. Calderón is a famous center of unique Ecuadorian folk art: the people make bread-dough decorations. On weekends. s/d $86/98. There are several trails. The shorter trails are self-guided. from easy half-hour loops to fairly strenuous all-day hikes. About 10km along the right fork. has trail maps and information and can make overnight reservations. The road will eventually lead you back to Quito via the town of Tumbaco. Situated 2. From Quito. REFUGIO DE VIDA SILVESTRE PASOCHOA GUAYLLABAMBA & AROUND If you follow the Panamericana another 15km beyond Calderón you will hit Guayllabamba.lacarriona. s) is a 200-year-old colonial hacienda that QUITO is a delightful place to stay. between Avenidas Amazonas and Mariana de Jesús. About 3km before you reach Guayllabamba. when the place is usually crowded with locals. These decorative figures are inedible – preservatives are added so that they’ll last many years. Sangolquí is about 20km southeast of Quito’s old town. hdawn-dusk) stands on the northern flanks of the extinct Pasochoa volcano. you’ll pass the Quito Zoo (%236-8900. Jacuzzi. a small restaurant is open. The 30 units vary distinctly in character.
Rucu Pichincha is now easily climbed from the top of the telefériQo.edu. The volcano has two main summits – the closer. Things were safer for a while.igepn . From the village. one hour). In return. VOLCÁN PICHINCHA Quito’s closest volcano is Pichincha. but unfortunately there have been several armed robberies recently along the main trail. there were three minor eruptions in the 19th century. mass email it to everyone you know. non-commercial purposes only. The telefériQo management is aware of this problem and it’s hoped that they and the Ecuadorian police will beef up security. Alternatively. access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. As for Guagua Pichincha. and no special equipment is required. dormant Rucu Pichincha (4680m) and the higher Guagua Pichincha (4794m). See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above . but in 1999 the volcano rumbled into serious action. p97) that offer this as a day trip from town. Ask the driver to let you off near Parque El Ejido. In other words. Reaching the summit will take you two days if you walk from Lloa. Walking is the only option. A few puffs of smoke occurred in 1981. you can go all the way into Amaguaña (about 1km beyond El Ejido) and hire a truck to the reserve’s entrance and information center for about $10 (the truck can take several people). Hikers are advised to check with SAE (p79) for an update on conditions before heading out. please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site. it’s about eight hours by foot to the refugio (hikers refuge.’ . which is currently very active and is monitored by volcanologists. coughing up an 18km-high mushroom cloud and blanketing the city in ash. A major eruption in 1660 covered Quito in 40cm of ash. stay up to date on the volcano’s activity either by dropping into SAE or checking the website of the Instituo Geofísico (www.ec). To make it easier for you to use. From the church nearby. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal.© Lonely Planet Publications 118 A R O U N D Q U I T O • • V o l c á n Pi c h i n c h a lonelyplanet. there is a signed cobblestone road to the reserve. © Lonely Planet Publications. QUITO Dangers & Annoyances Before the telefériQo was built. looming over the western side of the city. located southeast of Quito. It is then a further short but strenuous hike from the refugio to the summit. There are numerous agencies in Quito (Safari Tours is a good one. which is about 7km away. Rucu Pichincha was plagued with crime. or resell it. Climbing the smoking Guagua Pichincha is a longer trip.com Quito’s old town about twice an hour for the village of Amaguaña ($1.‘Do the right thing with our content. It is accessible from the village of Lloa. dm $5). Climbing either of the summits is strenuous but technically straightforward.