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January - March 2013

Europe’s best city guides for more than 20 years


The markets

A unique way to discover Cagliari

Fine dining

Sardinia’s top chefs call Cagliari home


Present and souvenir ideas for the whole family

Restaurants Cafés Nightlife
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What to see Getting around

Foreword The markets: a unique way to discover Cagliari Arriving & Basics History Culture & Events Where to stay

Shopping Lifestyle Directory Maps & Index
Street index 5 7 10 11 12 Transport map City map City centre map Index

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January - March 2013

29/10/12 16:00


Unlike other Italian destinations, Cagliari has no single landmark, building, or monument by which it can be immediately identified, which unfortunately means it often gets ignored or undervalued as a place of interest by those merely wishing to tick important sights off their list. However, the great thing about Cagliari is that it is so much more than the sum of its parts. All of its buildings, galleries, churches, shops, restaurants, parks, beaches and people come together to form a vibrant, energetic city that is worth so much more than one iconic postcard picture. Of course, that’s not to say that there isn’t plenty of aesthetic beauty in Cagliari! You only have to watch the sunset over the bay from the terrace of the Saint Remy Rampart or take a walk up to San Michele hill on a clear day to be sure of that. Moreover, it is a city that boasts many fine examples of beautiful design and architecture, so there are plenty of photogenic sights to be found. However, what makes Cagliari different from other cities is how understated and intimate this beauty is. It lies in the narrow lanes of the Marina district, with the majestic peacocks in Monte Urpinu park, and the stalls at San Benedetto market laden with colourful fruits and vegetables. No ostentatious displays of grandeur here, just a certain intangible atmosphere of friendliness and warmth. The winter is a very pleasant time to explore the city, as it’s the perfect weather for wandering leisurely around, visiting the sights and soaking up the atmosphere, maybe stopping from time to time to sample the numerous cafés, bars and restaurants that line the streets and squares. If that’s not quite what you fancy, this is also a great season to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and spend some time in the countryside. Cagliari’s surrounding area, with its magnificent beaches on the coast and its rolling hills, majestic vineyards and green forests inland, offers plenty of opportunity to do this. Back in the city, there’s still ample opportunity to access some greenery in the form of the city’s various parks. Cagliari is arguably much better equipped in this sense than many other cities, especially given the impressive maintenance the council gives to the parks and the facilities they provide. Unlike many larger and more famous cities, Cagliari manages to perfectly bridge the gap between being a destination of interest for visitors and being a pleasant place to live. This means that there’s a sense of community spirit and local identity that permeates into all corners of city life and you can really sense this even as a visitor.

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More than 20 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Oristano, on the Italian island of Sardinia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensible In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‚IYP Guides‘ by name. To keep up to date with all that‘s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook ( inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter ( inyourpocket).
Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Cagliari In Your Pocket 2012-2013. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76). Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.


Cagliari In Your Pocket Via Ugo Foscolo 11/6b 16121 Genoa, Italy Tel. (+39) 010 844 38 29 Fax (+39) 010 844 38 30 ISSN: 2240-9912 © IYP Italia S.r.l. Published four times per year in Genoa by IYP Italia S.r.l. Via San Vincenzo 2 - XI piano 16121 Genoa, Italy Printed by Grafiche Ghiani S.r.l., Monastir, Italy Maps Comune di Cagliari, CTM S.p.A.

Editorial Editor in Chief Maria Marongiu Contributors Susanna Larminie, Lorenzo Marsano Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Cover photo Cocco & Saba, courtesy of Comune di Cagliari Sales & Circulation Project Manager Lorenzo Marsano Special Thanks Franca Cincotta, Antonina Gaspa, Victoria Heward, Rosa Olcese In Loving Memory Andrea Marsano Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Cagliari n. 4 del 27/1/2012 Responsabile del trattamento dati (legge 675/96): Lorenzo Marsano

Cagliari In Your Pocket

The markeTs: a unique way To discover cagliari
Cagliari is very well served in terms of municipal markets, boasting five in total. These should not just be seen as somewhere useful to do your shopping, though naturally they serve this purpose very well, but as an excellent place to absorb a little of the local culture and its traditions. The markets in their current form are comparatively new, having opened in their present locations the late 1950s. However, as an institution they are much older than that, and you can really get a feel as you walk round them that this is a tradition that has been going on for centuries. Some of the older citizens of Cagliari will still fondly recall the city’s oldest market structure, that of largo Carlo Felice, which was unfortunately bombed during WWII. Its destruction meant that there was a need for a replacement, which came into being in the form of the markets that we see today. There are now over six hundred small businesses operating within the municipal markets. The vast majority of these are traders of food produce, but there are also some others selling items such as clothes and furniture, or offering services such as key cutting. Each market (mercato in Italian) has its unique selection and distinctive character, but what they all have in common is a wide variety of fruit, vegetables, meat and fish, some kind of café or bar facility for those looking for refreshment, and very friendly staff. The latter is important to mention as the market traders in Cagliari possess the unique gift of being amicable and knowledgeable about their products without being aggressive in their sales technique, which is so often the downfall of such places. Here you can feel at ease to browse at leisure without being bullied into making a hasty purchase. Some of the markets are a little too far out of the centre to be comfortably reached on foot, but they are very easily reachable by regular buses so it is still worth making the trip as you will be rewarded with a very enriching experience. Outside the actual buildings in which the markets are housed are plenty of stalls selling clothes, household items and antique furniture. The stock is extremely variable both in quantity and quality, but the patient shopper could easily find a diamond in the rough here and come out with a one-of-a-kind piece of jewellery or an antique desk lamp. In any case, the buzzing atmosphere around these stalls merits taking a minute or two to cast your eye over them. The main market, and one that should definitely not be missed, is the Mercato San Benedetto. This is the central market both in terms of location and size – they say it’s one of the largest covered markets in Italy. Spread over two floors and spilling out onto the streets outside, this place really has to be experienced to be truly appreciated. As you walk in you will be taken aback both by the sheer selection on offer and by the electric atmosphere of a buzzing city market. Most of the downstairs floor is devoted to fish, and such an abundance of the stuff you’d have difficulty finding anywhere else. If you’re hungry (which, let’s face it, you will be when surrounded by all this food) then why not indulge in a paper cone of freshly fried seafood? This recent innovation has proved very popular and it’s obvious why: it’s tasty, good value and the portions are enormous! San Benedetto, like all the other municipal markets, is open every morning from Monday to Saturday, but it’s probably best visited from Tuesday to Friday if you want to find the best stock and to avoid the crowds that descend on it from far and wide on Saturdays.


A word from our Mayor

The history and the archaeology, the environment, the sea and architectural beauty. The beach and marshland, the lagoon and the hills. The narrow streets in the old town, from Marina up to Castello, strolling through Villanova and Stampace. The smells and tastes. Craft and art. They all tell us about the traditions but also the city’s desire for a future. It’s not easy to describe Cagliari in just a few lines, even for someone like me who was born and bred here. Because Cagliari is a beautiful city, sunny and full of light. It’s the gateway to Sardinia in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea: thanks to its location, our city is a crossroads for sounds, colours and flavours. Multi-ethnic. Open and welcoming, because this is how we are in Cagliari. Welcoming, but also ready to face the challenges that the future poses. Cagliari is a lively, ever-changing city. Just like this guidebook: take it around with you, study the itineraries it suggests, visit the places, follow advice on hotels, restaurants, shops, workshops and venues, take notes of events, exhibitions and shows on our cultural agenda. So read it well and keep it in your pocket. And raise your eyes and noses from these pages: watch the colours and enjoy the smells in Cagliari. For how ever well this guidebook may be written - and In Your Pocket really is well written - it’s you and your memories, once back in your homes, that will be the best ambassadors for our city across the world. Welcome to Cagliari! Massimo Zedda Mayor

© Comune di Cagliari

January - March 2013


The markeTs: a unique way To discover cagliari

Mercato di Santa Chiara A much smaller market, though no less interesting for it, is the Mercato di Santa Chiara, moments away from piazza Yenne. It is the oldest of the current municipal markets, having opened its doors in 1955, and has all the charm and personality befitting such a title. It has only one floor and a handful of stalls, but this should at least make decision making easier! The usual gastronomic delights are on offer, perfect for picking up ingredients for an impromptu picnic lunch. Once you’re back outside, you can admire the excellent view it has over the city. For those heading to Poetto beach for the day, a pit-stop at the Mercato Sant’Elia is both a convenient way to stock up your picnic hamper and a chance to really get a flavour of a neighbourhood market. Situated in what is effectively the car park of Cagliari’s football stadium, it is perhaps a little rough round the edges in aesthetic terms, but don’t let that put you off. Instead see it as all the more reason to get inside and see what’s on offer. As well as the usual sumptuous selection, there is an enoteca (a wine shop and bar) on the first floor selling local wines either by the glass to drink there or in amusingly makeshift large plastic bottles to take away with you. Another small but perfectly formed market is the Mercato di Is Bingias, situated in the centre of the Pirri neighbourhood. It has the welcoming feel of a modest community market but a selection that could rival many twice its size. It has a spread of fruit and vegetables that would get even the most carnivorous customer salivating, along with the usual meat and fish, and bakeries selling plaited loaves and delightful little pastries that look almost too good to eat. Meat and fish lovers, meanwhile, will surely be delighted with the selection on offer at the Mercato di via Quirra. Like San Benedetto market, it is spread over two floors, with the ground floor mostly dedicated to fish, with everything from the most gigantic swordfish to the tiniest little

© Cocco & Saba live crabs on offer. You can also get freshly fried fish here if you’re feeling peckish. Upstairs, the butchers’ stalls boast the finest cuts of every kind. This is perhaps not a place for the faint hearted: whole suckling pigs hang next to rabbits and chickens, whilst pigs’ and sheep’s heads stare up at you from the counter. Still, if you’re someone who likes to know where their meat comes from, and not buy anonymous pink slabs wrapped in plastic, this can only be a good thing! As well as the meat and vegetables, the first floor also plays host to a number of stalls selling cheese, bread, cakes and homemade fresh pasta. A trip to the markets of Cagliari really is a shopping experience to rival no other, and a really easy, enjoyable way to play at being a local for a morning. This, along the outstanding quality of the produce itself, is the reason why at least one of these markets should definitely be part of your itinerary here in Cagliari.

Mercato di Santa Chiara B-3, scalette Santa Chiara, tel. (+39) 070 66 39 39.Q Open 07:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Mercato di via Quirra F-1, via Quirra, tel. (+39) 070 28 49 26. Q Open 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Mercato San Benedetto C-1, via Cocco Ortu, tel. (+39) 070 40 33 96, www.mercatosanbenedetto. com. Q Open 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Mercato Sant’Elia G-3, via Carta Raspi, tel. (+39) 070 37 05 29. Q Open 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Closed Sun.

Mercato di Is Bingias G-1, via della Resistenza, tel. (+39) 070 50 02 55. Q Open 07:00 - 14:00.

Cagliari In Your Pocket

Arriving & bAsics
Arriving by plane
mas, tel. (+39) 070 21 12 11, fax (+39) 070 24 10 13,, Located about 7km from the city centre, it is the biggest and busiest airport in Sardinia, well connected to most major Italian and European destinations. It has car rental kiosks, ATMs, Wi-Fi, a tourist information desk (open 09:00 - 19:00), conference facilities, a pharmacy and a small selection of shops and food outlets. Getting to Cagliari is fairly easy. It takes between 10-15 minutes by taxi (€15-€25), and add just a few more minutes if travelling by bus. Regional bus company ARST operates from the airport to the bus station between 05:20 and 22:30. Ticket is €4 when purchased in advance or €5 from the driver. Have exact change ready when you buy the ticket on board. Q Open 24/7


Cagliari-Elmas Airport E-1, via dei Trasvolatori, El-

Useful phrases
How are you? Come stai? Pleased to meet you. Piacere di conoscerti. Do you speak English? Parli inglese? Where is the nearest shop, hotel, restaurant, bar or toilet? Dov’è il negozio, albergo, ristorante, bar o gabinetto più vicino? What’s your name? Come ti chiami? My name is … Mi chiamo… What time is it? Che ora è? How much? Quanto costa? Hello Ciao Good morning Buon giorno Good evening Buona sera Goodnight Buona notte Goodbye Arrivederci Yes Sì No No Maybe Forse Thank you Grazie

Arriving by train
Trenitalia serves all major Sardinian destinations, such as Oristano (a c. 1hr 15mins journey) and Sassari (c. 3hrs), as well as ferry ports Olbia (c. 3hrs 30mins) and Porto Torres (c. 4hrs). 22, tel. 199 89 20 21, The station is just a few steps away from the city centre. It has an ATM, a bar and a newsagent’s shop. There are no left luggage facilities. Tickets must be clipped before boarding the train. Q Ticket office open 06:50 - 20:00.

Train Station (Stazione ferroviaria) B-4, via Roma

Days of the week
Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

Lunedì Martedì Mercoledì Giovedì Venerdì Sabato Domenica 2 due 4 quattro 6 sei 8 otto 10 dieci 12 dodici 14 quattordici 16 sedici 18 diciotto 20 venti 50 cinquanta 200 duecento 1000 mille Strada Vicolo Viale Piazza Mercato Aeroporto Porto Traghetto Autostazione Stazione ferroviaria Taxi

Arriving by bus
Cagliari is linked to all major Sardinian destinations through the regional bus company ARST. Tickets are sold at the bus station and must be clipped once on board. If in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the bus, but expect a surcharge.

Bus Station (Stazione ARST) B-4, piazza Matteotti 9, tel. (+39) 070 40 98 32/800 86 50 42,, The bus station is very centrally located, adjacent to the train station and no more than a five-minute walk to piazza Yenne. Facilities include left luggage (deposito bagagli), a fast food restaurant, an ATM and a Hertz car rental kiosk. Q Ticket office open 05:00 - 21:15.

1 uno 3 tre 5 cinque 7 sette 9 nove 11 undici 13 tredici 15 quindici 17 diciassette 19 diciannove 21 ventuno 100 cento 500 cinquecento


Arriving by ferry
Ferry terminals are just 100m west of the city centre, a few metres from the main bus and train stations. Tirrenia operates regular ferry services for passengers and vehicles to and from Civitavecchia and Naples in the mainland, Palermo and Trapani in Sicily.

Street smarts
Street, road Alley Boulevard Square Market Airport Port Ferry Bus station Train station Taxi

Tirrenia A-4, Agenave, via Riva di Ponente, tel. (+39) 070 66 60 65/(+39) 070 66 30 04, Q Ticket office open 08:30 - 12:20, 16:15 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:20, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun 17:00 - 19:00.

Arriving by cruise ship
Cruise ships are currently docking at the Rinascita and Sabaudo wharfs, conveniently located just a few minutes walk from via Roma.

Costa Crociere Tel. 848 50 50 50, Costa Crociere has chosen Cagliari as one of its home ports.

Iberocruceros, Pullmantur Tel. (+34) 915 56 32 13, www.pullmantur. es. Seabourn Cruise Line Tel. (+1) 0843 374 33 33, Silversea Cruises Tel. (+39) 02 36 04 92 11, www. January - March 2013


Arriving & bAsics
Public Holidays
There are a number of public holidays in Italy. On these days city councils, post offices and banks are closed. Some shops, restaurants, museums and attractions may also close or have abbreviated opening hours. Jan 1 Jan 6 March 31 - April 1, 2013 Apr 25 May 1 Jun 2 Aug 15 Oct 30 Nov 1 Dec 8 Dec 25 Dec 26 New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Liberation Day Labour Day Republic Day Assumption City Patron St Saturnin's day All Souls’ Day Immaculate Conception Christmas St Stephen’s Day

Electricity in Italy is 220V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round and take three round pins. If you are coming from the US, Canada, UK or Ireland you definitely need an adaptor.

Health & Pharmacies
Cagliari has three public hospitals (ospedale in Italian) with emergency units. Although there can be long queues for minor problems, more serious cases are usually addressed professionally, swiftly and free of charge. Pharmacies (farmacia) are easily recognizable from the luminous red or green cross on the outside. Opening hours generally follow similar time patterns to shops. A few pharmacies are open at night, on Sundays and public holidays. These change on a weekly basis and the list with addresses and phone numbers is always on display on boards outside every single pharmacy in town as well as at

Arriving by sailing boat
Portus Karalis B/C-4, molo Dogana, tel. (+39) 070 65 35 35, fax (+39) 070 640 48 98,, Located in the section of the harbour facing via Roma, it’s a perfect spot for both small and huge vessels, and especially if you want to remain close to the city, its shops, restaurants and bars being all in very short walking distance. QOffice open 09:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 18:30.

Ospedale Brotzu F-1, piazzale Ricchi 1, tel. (+39) 070 53 95 94. Q Open 24/7 Ospedale Civile San Giovanni di Dio B-3, via Ospedale 46, tel. (+39) 070 66 32 37. Q Open 24/7 Ospedale Marino H-2, lungomare Poetto, tel. (+39) 070 609 43 05. Q Open 24/7

Every Sardinian speaks standard Italian. Sardinia has a language of its own, Sardinian, which is categorised in many different dialects and varieties. It is officially recognised as a Neo-Latin language, just as Italian, French, Spanish or Catalan. Nevertheless, in Cagliari speakers of the local version of Sardinian, known as Casteddaiu, are growing thinner. Younger generations normally understand it, but aren’t fluent speakers, as opposed to their parents or grandparents.

Arriving by car
Cagliari is linked to major ferry ports Porto Torres (238km from Cagliari) and Olbia (274km) by dual carriageway roads SS131 and SS131dcn. Be sure to bring your driving licence, your car’s registration papers and a valid insurance policy, such as the international green card, a reflective vest and a warning triangle. The speed limit on dual carriageway roads is 110 km/h, on non-urban roads is 90 km/h, on Cagliari’s inner ring road (Asse Mediano) 70 km/h, in urban areas 50 km/h, unless otherwise indicated by road signs. It is compulsory to wear front and rear seat belts. Headlights have to be always turned on when driving on non-urban roads. Drinking and driving is heavily fined. The legal limit is 0.5 g/l. Approaching Cagliari, signposting is sometimes confusing, so we recommend to use a satellite navigation device or to have a map to hand. Traffic in the city is generally not too bad, even during rush hour. When driving through the city you will see digital signs telling you how many spaces are free in the main car parks. There are access restrictions for cars within city centre. Castello is off-limits during the night (00:00 - 09:00), while access to Marina, Stampace and Villanova is also restricted during the day.

Local time
From March 31st to October 26th, Italy is in the Central European Summer Time Zone, or GMT+2. The rest of the year the clock ticks according to the Central European Time Zone, or GMT+1.

Mobile phones
You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an international roaming agreement with one of Italian four mobile phone networks. Depending on your phone usage, it’s well worth considering buying a local SIM card that you simply use in your own phone. A prepaid account starts from around €20. To purchase one you need to show your ID card or passport.

Sardinia in a nutshell
Area: 23,821km2 Population: 1.675million Provinces (in order of population): Cagliari, Sassari, Oristano, Nuoro, Olbia-Tempio, Carbonia-Iglesias, Medio Campidano, Ogliastra Capital city: Cagliari (pop. 156,000) Other cities: Sassari (pop. 130,600), Quartu Sant'Elena (71,900), Olbia (57,000), Alghero (41,000), Nuoro (36,200), Oristano (31,900) Highest point: Punta La Marmora, Gennargentu Massif (1,834m) Longest river: Tirso (150km) Largest lake: Omodeo Reservoir (29km2)

Disabled travellers
Unfortunately Italy is not yet very well-equipped in terms of facilities for the disabled, and Cagliari is no exception, especially given the unfavourable layout of the old town. The cobbled streets and steep steps that extend from Marina up to Castello certainly aren’t ideal for wheelchair users. There are disabled parking spaces for those who require them available at Metropark Cagliari and Regina Elena Parking Garage. Drivers with a disability sticker on their car can also use any of the city’s designated parking spaces for free.

Cagliari In Your Pocket

Arriving & bAsics
Emergency numbers
Carabinieri Police (Polizia) Fire Brigade (Vigili del fuoco) Emergency Medical Assistance (Emergenza sanitaria) Coast Guard (Guardia costiera) Metropolitan Police (Polizia municipale) 112 113 115 118 1530 (+39) 070 533 533


Telephone numbers
All In Your Pocket guides in its European publishing empire list country codes before all telephone numbers. The Italian country code is (+39), but of course, you only have to use this if you’re dialing from abroad. If you’re already in Italy and want to call one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+39) prefix and dial the number.

Tipping is not usually expected, as most places include a service charge in the bill. However, tips are always welcome and can be left on the table or counter, or even handed over personally to the waiter/bartender.

A large part of the European Union has adopted the euro (€) as its local currency and Italy is no exception. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 euro cents and 1, 2 euros; banknotes: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. You can exchange and withdraw money at most large banks, open Mon-Fri 08:30 - 13:15 and 14:30 - 16:00. Banks accept Visa and MasterCard at their cash dispensers. Many restaurants, hotels and shops accept Visa and MasterCard, but to avoid disappointment, be sure to carry some cash with you.

Although Sardinia holds a special status, it is part of Italian national territory and therefore Schengen Agreement rules apply. However, Sardinia is an island and all EU nationals need at least an ID card when boarding airplanes and ferries, while non-EU nationals will require a passport for a stay of up to three months. Depending on the country of origin, some foreigners might need a visa. Please enquire at Italian embassies or consulates for current bilateral agreements with your country.

Post Office (Poste) B-3, piazza del Carmine 27, tel.
(+39) 070 605 41 64, You can buy stamps at tobacconists and drop off your postcards in the red boxes around town or go straight to this centrally located post office. QOpen 08:25 - 19:10, Sat 08:25 - 12:35. Closed Sun. U

Tourist information
SEARCH (Sede Espositiva Archivio Storico Comunale), tel. (+39) 070 677 71 87, infopoint., QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Infopoint Aeroporto Elmas E-1, Cagliari-Elmas Airport, via dei Trasvolatori, Elmas, tel. (+39) 070 21 12 12 81. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. U Infopoint Molo Sanità B-4, molo Sanità. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Infopoint Piazza Costituzione C-3, piazza Costituzione. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. X-MEM A-3, MEM Mediateca del Mediterraneo, via Mameli 164, tel. (+39) 342 342 20 10, mediateca@ QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30, 16:30 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. URW

Tourist Information Centre (Uf ficio del Tu r i s m o) B - 3 , l a r g o C a r l o F e l i c e 2 , c/o

Latin Rite Catholicism is by far the largest religious group in Italy. Cagliari is said to have been a diocese since as early as 70AD, although there are no written documents to prove it. There are a small mosque and an Evangelical Baptist church in the central Marina quarter. Other places of worship are to be found in greater Cagliari (Muslim, Christian Orthodox, Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter-day Saints among others).

It is generally safe to walk around, both day and night, especially in the city centre and surrounding neighbourhoods. Even the dark and narrow streets of the historical quarters don’t represent a serious threat. Having said all this, it is also worth pointing out that some precautions should be taken. It is common sense not to venture out too far away from the centre at night, on foot and in dodgy parts of town. If the situation gets particularly edgy, call 112 (Carabinieri) or 113 (Police) for help. If possible, find someone who speaks Italian to help you make the call since there is no guarantee of finding an English speaker on the other end.

January February March April May June July August September October November December

Temperature min/max, °C
6/14 6/15 7/16 9/18 12/22 16/27 19/30 19/30 17/27 14/23 9/18 7/15

Rainfall, mm
46 57 44 37 24 9 3 8 31 56 56 55

Smoking & Alcohol
Smoking is not allowed in public places, such as bars, pubs, clubs, restaurants, offices etc. There are however a few venues which have designated areas where smoking is permitted. Some hidden late-night pubs in the centre will turn a blind eye and bring an ashtray to your table in the early hours of the morning. According to Italian law, alcohol cannot be legally sold to people under 18. However, it is unlikely that a teenager will not be served a drink at a bar or have his purchase rejected in a supermarket.

January - March 2013


Origins The first traces of human activity in the area of Cagliari date back to 6000-4000BC and further findings led archaeologists to believe that the gulf of Cagliari has been continuously inhabited ever since. However, there is very little testimony of the Nuragic culture which started around 2000BC and this is probably due to the many different phases of urbanisation. The first inhabitants and therefore founders of Cagliari (or Karel/Karalis as it was then called) which left visible traces were the Phoenicians, around 7th century BC. Initially just a commercial outpost, gathered around the Santa Gilla marshes, the town gradually grew towards the area of the present-day train station. The most important testimonies of Phoenician culture are the two necropoleis, visible both east and west of the city centre, on the hills of Tuvixeddu and Bonaria. Roman period Cagliari fell to the Romans in 238BC. Thanks to its ideal strategic position, it soon became an important naval hub for fleets engaged in wars in Northern Africa. Cagliari was important for commerce, thanks to the Roman road system which connected the city’s harbour with other towns, as well as for salt, which was harvested from the large evaporation ponds, still visible and partially active, between Cagliari and Quartu Sant’Elena. Although Cagliari was never formally a colony, its inhabitants were eventually granted Roman citizenship and the city flourished as one of the most important Roman cities in the Mediterranean. The large amphitheatre, which could seat up to 10,000 spectators, various cisterns to gather and distribute water, villas, statues and other finds, are testimonies of the the city’s role during Roman domination. Middle Ages After the fall of the Roman Empire, Cagliari was dominated by the Vandals and then by the Byzantine Empire. The growing political and military difficulties of the latter, gradually led Sardinia to be divided in four autonomous administrations, called giudicati, Cagliari being the main one. However, due to the lack of a centralised power, weakness and exposure to constant raids by Moorish pirates, Cagliari was practically abandoned and its inhabitants preferred to found another town, Santa Igia, along the more protected shores of the Santa Gilla lagoon, presumably close to present-day Sant’Avendrace. From 10th century onwards, the Genoese and especially Pisan maritime republics became stronger along the Sardinian coast, establishing their military presence and their commercial activities. Pisan merchants gradually established their presence in the gulf of Cagliari and what started as a commercial outpost, became a military and political domination. The Pisans defeated the Cagliari giudicato, destroyed Santa Igia and occupied the hill of present-day Castello, founding Castel di Castro. They erected the first ring of fortified walls which also included the area of Marina, facing the harbour. Spanish domination The Aragonese domination in Cagliari commenced symbolically in 1324, when the Pisan army was badly defeated in a battle which took place presumably in the area of what is now the airport, between Cagliari and Elmas. While initially allowing the Pisans to live in the city, after few years the Aragonese quelled a rebellion and then defeated a fleet made up of Pisan and Genoese vessels. Pisan inhabitants were expelled from Cagliari and their houses, all administration and commerce was handed over to Aragonese colonisers. As a result, the city’s population dwindled from 18,000 to 3,000 inhabitants. Sardinia itself became a kingdom and its capital changed names into Càller. The island was governed by a viceroy, who used to be appointed directly by the Spanish sovereigns. In the quest to gain access to administrative, political or military roles, local gentry and Spanish aristocracy grew ever more intertwined. Although the economic conditions of the local population did not improve significantly, throughout the centuries Spanish influence on society in Sardinia, and therefore Cagliari, became apparent, especially in regards to customs, religion, language and architecture. The Savoy family Victor Amadeus II, duke of Savoy, was granted the title of King of Sardinia in 1720, following the 1718 Treaty of London, with which the geopolitical setting of Europe was rearranged. According to the agreement, the House of Savoy were not allowed to make significant changes to Sardinian institutions and it therefore inherited a state whose political system was accustomed to subjugation, a backward and failing economy, as well as a weak defence system, still based on passive resistance, represented by the decaying chain of coastal towers, a number of which are still clearly visible along the gulf of Cagliari. The Savoy treated Sardinia, and its capital Cagliari, much like the far-away colony it actually was. Although heavy taxation hampered its development, Cagliari regained its role in European power games. The port and its position along the main Mediterranean commercial routes helped restore the city’s political and strategic importance. When the new rulers were put in power, from the outside Cagliari appeared to be a mighty fortress, surrounded by potent walls and towers. However, its defence system was in fact outdated, it lacked artillery and regular troops. The Piedmontese viceroys and military engineers called for a radical makeover of the city’s fortifications. These were tested for the first time during the winter of 1793, when the French fleet laid siege to Cagliari, shelling the city and unsuccessfully attempting to land east of Poetto beach. A decade later, during the Napoleonic Wars and the occupation of Piedmont, the Savoy family, who had been ousted from their court in Turin, resided in the Royal Palace in Cagliari. Contemporary Cagliari During the peaceful years of the 19th century, Cagliari gradually opened up to industrial and commercial investments, its old defence walls got pulled down, its urban landscape began to be modernised with new architectural styles (Neo-Classical, Neo-Gothic and Art Nouveau) and places such as via Roma, Saint Remy Rampart and the annexed Indoor Promenade. In the 20th century the municipality of Cagliari grew bigger and included many other towns, which are now formally independent, but remain part of the city’s metropolitan area, such as Monserrato, Selargius and Elmas. Cagliari suffered intensive bombing during WWII, in the course of which most of its population fled to neighbouring towns and villages. The city centre was severely damaged. After WWII, Cagliari’s territory stretched out both inland and towards the sea, becoming what is now an urban continuum which includes Elmas, Assemini, Monserrato, Selargius, Quartucciu and Quartu Sant’Elena, with a total population of around 370,000.

Cagliari In Your Pocket

Culture & events
Opera House (Teatro Lirico di Cagliari) B-1, via
Sant’Alenixedda, tel. (+39) 070 408 22 30/(+39) 070 408 22 49, fax (+39) 070 408 22 23, biglietteria@, After the destruction of Teatro Civico di Castello during the second world war a new project for a new Opera House was brought to light in 1964. A project that over the years transformed into what we call today Teatro Lirico di Cagliari. A beautifully designed and prestigious Opera House that can host up to 1,650 spectators. The stage and the orchestra pit were built first, the rehearsal rooms, workrooms, store rooms and office premises were built over the years while the foyer, a new bookshop, the bar and an elegant restaurant were the latest addition and renovation project to be completed. The Teatro Lirico was finally inaugurated in 1993. With its own orchestra and chorus which play a leading role in many prestigious productions, the Opera House keeps its doors open all year long with concert, opera and ballet seasons. Q Box office open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00 and one hour before show time. Closed Sun. UK Teatro Massimo A-2/3, via De Magistris 12, tel. (+39) 070 677 81 29, biglietteria@teatrostabiledellasardegna. it, Teatro Massimo first takes shape in 1947 at the initiative of the Merello family. It immediately entered in the circuit of the great Italian opera houses and theatres. Well known theatre companies and famous artist at the time such as Eduardo de Filippo to young Vittorio Gassman came regularly to put on shows. In the field of opera, the theatre was host to the young Maria Callas. Q Box office open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00 and one hour before show time. Closed Sat, Sun. U


Calendar of events

Classical, Opera & Ballet
January 5, 6 11 12 21:00 20:30 19:00 The Nutcracker, ballet, Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky. Companyia de Ballet de Santa Coloma de Gramenet. Music for violin and orchestra. Programme: F. Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, F. Schubert, L. van Beethoven. Music for violin and orchestra. Programme: F. Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, F. Schubert, L. van Beethoven. Giuseppe Verdi’s Messa da Requiem. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Giuseppe Verdi’s Messa da Requiem. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Music for piano and orchestra. Programme: S. Rachmaninoff, D. Shostakovich. Music for piano and orchestra. Programme: S. Rachmaninoff, D. Shostakovich. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: K. Weill, D. Milhaud, I. Stravinsky. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: K. Weill, D. Milhaud, I. Stravinsky. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: C. Nielsen, E. Grieg, J. Sibelius. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: C. Nielsen, E. Grieg, J. Sibelius. Gioachino Rossini’s Stabat Mater. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Gioachino Rossini’s Stabat Mater. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: A. Webern, I. Stravinsky, B. Bartók. Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: A. Webern, I. Stravinsky, B. Bartók. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: W.A. Mozart, A. Salieri. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: W.A. Mozart, A. Salieri. Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: R. Wagner, J. Brahms. Orchestra of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Programme: R. Wagner, J. Brahms. Giovanni Allevi’s Sunrise. Giovanni Allevi and Orchestra Sinfonica Italiana. Johann Sebastian Bach’s St John Passion. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Johann Sebastian Bach’s St John Passion. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Music for flute and orchestra. Programme: A. Khachaturian, M. Mussorgsky, P.I. Tchaikovsky. Music for flute and orchestra. Programme: A. Khachaturian, M. Mussorgsky, P.I. Tchaikovsky. Antonín Dvořák’s Stabat Mater. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari. Antonín Dvořák’s Stabat Mater. Orchestra & Choir of the Teatro Lirico of Cagliari.





Pop & Dance

18 20:30 19 19:00 25 20:30 26 19:00 February 1 20:30 2 19:00 8 20:30 9 19:00 15 20:30 16 19:00 22 20:30 23 19:00 March 1 20:30 2 19:00 8 20:30 9 19:00 10 21:00 15 20:30 16 19:00 22 20:30 23 19:00 29 20:30 30 19:00

January 27 21:00 Massimo Ranieri, Italian popular music. 28, 29 21:00 Coppelia, dance, Fabrizio Monteverde. Compagnia Junior Balletto di Toscana. February 15, 16 21:00 Open, dance, Daniel Ezralow. DEConstruction Dance Company. March 7, 8 21:00 Suite Flamenca n. 2, dance. Companyia Antonio Gades Rango. Venues LI - Opera House (Teatro Lirico di Cagliari) MA - Teatro Massimo

January - March 2013


Where to stay
Cream of the crop
T Hotel G-1, via dei Giudicati 66, tel. (+39) 070 47 400,
fax (+39) 070 47 40 16,, www. This sleek hotel has been the host to politicians, famous footballers and stars. A superb spa centre will take you on a regenerating journey of wellness and fitness, welcoming you to the vast hydrotherapy pool, Turkish bath and emotional showers. The exclusive treatments are a must and the fully trained staff will welcome you in a discreet, professional setting. The superb and stylish open space entrance that overlooks the bistro bar and restaurant constantly exibists works by local and international artists. Orange, red, green and purple are geared to enhance vitality, energy, tranquillity and relaxation and are the glowing theme colours that dominate each room. From family rooms ready to cater every family’s need to the hi-tech suite to fullfill every business traveller’s dream; from panoramic suites, delux or classic rooms, this hotel has it all. Menus conceived by chef of T Restaurant are based on seasonal produce, representing traditional Sardinian dishes and the modern Mediterranean cuisine. American breakfast buffet, freshly baked bread and croissants await you in the morning, while T Bistro provides a high quality appetising lunch and to finish off T Bar will welcome you for an aperitif or an after-dinner drink. The hotel has seven conference rooms, that can hold up to 800 guests. Q207 rooms (singles €109 - 219, doubles €129 - 279, suites €199 - 409, executive suite €300 459). Breakfast included. PHAUFLKW hhhh

Symbol key
P Air conditioning 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted L Guarded parking M Nearest metro station K Restaurant C Swimming pool outside garden where business lunches can be prepared and catered for. Q137 rooms (singles €129, doubles €165). Breakfast included. PHALW hhhh W Wi-Fi connection T Child friendly H Conference facilities R Internet G Non-smoking rooms D Sauna

U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre

Miramare B-3/4, via Roma 59, tel./fax (+39) 070 66

Caesar’s G-3, via Darwin 2-4, tel. (+39) 070 34 07 50, fax (+39) 070 34 07 55,, www. This hotel invites you in this open air grand foyer with a beautiful skylight. The rooms offer every comfort a traveller needs. Even though located in a modern residential neighbourhood, each room has satellite TV and is soundproofed. The restaurant feels warm and welcoming and the dishes are simple and traditional, though prepared and served with great care, it can also cater privately for groups. With 10 conference rooms that can hold up to 300 people, this hotel may be the answer to your business needs. Q48 rooms (singles €79 - 109, doubles €119 - 149, suites €260). Breakfast included. PHAULKW hhhh
53 79, fax (+39) 070 211 04 01,, The moment you walk into this stylish hotel lobby you are welcomed by vibrant contemporary paintings that brighten the entrance and instantly make you feel at home. Conveniently located between the city centre and the airport, the Holiday Inn is perfect for leisure breaks, meetings or business stays. It offers a wide range of top class amenities and each room is elegantly furnished with attention to detail and all the comforts of a four-star hotel to guarantee a great night’s sleep. Guests are better off having a car to move around, since the bus service isn’t the most frequent. Q92 rooms (singles €50 - 180, doubles €70 - 200). Breakfast included. PHALKDCW hhhh tel. (+39) 070 34 23 61, fax (+39) 070 30 12 74, info@, Situated right by the harbour, this hotel offers panoramic views of the sea. The decor and style are a reminiscence of the 1970s. Restaurant services are not available but there is a self-service bar on site. It also offers a total of 700m2 conference room which can easily be divided into smaller units, hosting up to 800 people for your conference needs. One of the conference rooms is directly connected to an

40 21,, With a spectacular view over the harbour, this enchanting boutique hotel will simply take your breath away. Each room tastefully and individually decorated by Sardinian artists, attention to the smallest detail, passion and impeccable customer service will make your stay at this hotel a lavish and surprisingly pleasant one. Miramare takes a charming listed building from the late 1800s and brings it into the 21st century. The inviting and warm living room will most definitely make you feel at home. Intertwining old and modern, culture and art, each room has been carefully thought throughout with the client in mind. Those who cherish their thirst for luxury will be delighted to find tastefully decorated rooms and bathrooms. Breakfast to die for complete with freshly-baked goodies, fruit and coffee. It also features a small internal garden and one particular suite has it all for itself. You can also experience the modern comfort of a massage room and Ayurveda treatments. It’s one of the few places in Cagliari that welcomes dogs and cats of all sizes. Q18 rooms (singles €139 - 319, doubles €169 - 319). Breakfast included. PJA6IW hhhh

Holiday Inn Cagliari F-1, viale Ticca 23, tel. (+39) 070

91, fax (+39) 070 30 54 13,, Offering spectacular views of the gulf of Cagliari, ideally located in a smart residential area of town, it’s within walking distance from the city centre (approximately 30 minutes) and a ten-minute bus ride from Poetto beach. This eight-story structure hotel is elegant and welcoming. Belvedere restaurant offers its guests a fantastic panoramic view of the city while enjoying a candle lit dinner service. It also boasts the elegant Panorama cafe, an outdoor swimming pool, conference and meeting rooms. Each of the five conference rooms is sound proof and can hold up to 150 guests. Q100 rooms (30 singles €70 - 110, 50 doubles €90 - 190, 20 suites €124 - 235). Breakfast included. PHAUFLKCW hhhh

Panorama G-3, viale Diaz 231, tel. (+39) 070 30 76

Mediterraneo D-4, lungomare Cristoforo Colombo 46,

Regina Margherita C-3, viale Regina Margherita 44, tel. (+39) 070 67 03 42, fax (+39) 070 66 83 25,, Located in the heart of the city, just steps away from Saint Remy Rampart, this stylish hotel has been beautifully and elegantly decorated with a modern touch while maintaining and intertwining design with the tradition of hospitality. The rooms have been elegantly decorated yet warm and welcoming. If you are looking for space, luxury and just peace of mind as well as top notch customer service you will most definitely find it here. Every single detail has been

Cagliari In Your Pocket

Where to stay
thought of throughout the entire hotel. The bathrooms are completely new and modern, designed to relax after a hard day at work or a busy day sightseeing. Exquisite staff is ready to cater for all your needs. Q100 rooms (singles €95 - 148, doubles €120 - 195, suites €320). Breakfast included. PTJHALGW hhhh one di Pirri, angolo via Santa Maria Chiara, tel. (+39) 070 451 93 00, fax (+39) 070 451 93 01, reservation., Situated on one of the main routes into Cagliari and not far by car from the city centre and Poetto beach. The rooms are fairly spacious and comfortable. Communal areas are nicely funished and include a restaurant, breakfast bar and conference rooms to accomodate your business meetings. It’s being located at an important cross roads, makes it an ideal place if your plan is to visit places out of town, or if you want a parking-stress-free break, since the hotel has its own parking spaces. Q129 rooms (singles €140, doubles €170). Breakfast included. PHALGKW hhh


Idea Hotel Cagliari Santa Maria F-1, circonvallazi-

Sardegna E-1, via Lunigiana 50, tel. (+39) 070 28 62 45, fax (+39) 070 29 04 69, info@sardegnahotelcagliari. it, Through antiques and retro furniture this luxurious hotel blends old and modern design in a simple and elegant way. The relaxing ambient, timeless taste, tradition and sleek design set for a great start on your way to discover Cagliari. Recently and entirely renovated, this hotel offers all the comforts a four star hotel can offer. Clean, spacious rooms and bathrooms offer luxurious comfort. The american bar is great for socializing and relaxation while the spacious lounge equipped with large plasma screen TVs give you that homely feeling. Baby-sitting is available for those who would love to enjoy a relaxing dinner at La Scala restaurant or to simply take a moment for themselves. Q84 rooms (singles €91 - 103, doubles €120 - 137, 6 suites €202). Breakfast included. PTA6LKW hhhh

fax (+39) 070 66 60 87,, www. Just a few steps away from the city centre, shops, bars and restaurants, this hotel is located in the lower part of the Stampace quarter, right behind the Town Hall and the train station. It features a spacious entrance which is a reminder of what lux and elegance used to be. The rooms are spacious, clean and also equipped with a mini bar. Restaurant services are not available but there is a bar that can cater to your thirsty needs. The staff is friendly, welcoming and will be happy to give you directions and tips when planning your days in or out of town. Q42 rooms (singles €70, doubles €100, suites €125). Breakfast included. PJAU hhh

4 Mori B-3, via Angioy 27, tel. (+39) 070 66 85 35,

Italia B-3, via Sardegna 31, tel. (+39) 070 66 04 10, fax (+39) 070 65 02 40,, www. Looking like a film set from the early 1970s, Hotel Italia is finally undergoing renovation. Because of its grand size, the hotel doors will remain open for business throughout the renovation process, as it will be done in sections. Located in the historical quarter of Marina, the hotel first opened its doors in 1928. The rooms are spacious and clean and the staff is very friendly and welcoming. The bar is open from 16:00 to 24:00. Since the hotel is surrounded by tons of restaurants it does not feature one. Q107 rooms (singles €58 - 72, doubles €72 - 100). Breakfast included. Parking is available through the hotel’s front desk at a near location for €3 per day. PJAXW hhh

A&R Bundes Jack B-3/4, via Roma 75, tel./fax (+39) 070 66 79 70, A small family business hotel above the arcades of via Roma, it offers front row views of Cagliari’s port from the moment you walk in. First opened in 1938, this hotel was part of the elite and crème de la crème of Cagliari’s hotels. Famous ballerinas and high society people have stepped their foot and slept in this hotel’s domains. Each room is decorated with impeccably maintained antique furniture. The rooms are spacious and airy. There is also a common space with a small antique bar tucked in a corner from where Mr Palmas will entertain and delight his guests with a glass of vernaccia of his own production. Q28 rooms (singles €52 - 72, doubles €82 - 102). PJNW hh La Terrazza B-3, via Santa Margherita 21, tel. (+39)
070 66 86 52, fax (+39) 070 66 08 63,, This family owned hotel is a hidden gem in the old town. The rooms are neat and clean offering views of Castello, the city and harbour of Cagliari. Cosy living room and friendly service it’s the perfect place to came back ‘home’ to after a long day of sighseeing and shopping. Just around the corner from all shops, amenities, archelogical and historical sites the city has to offer. Q14 rooms (singles €50 - 60, doubles €65 - 75, triples €90 - 100). Breakfast included. PJA6W hh

Calamosca H-4, viale Calamosca 50, tel. (+39) 070 37

16 28, fax (+39) 070 383 78 09, info@hotelcalamosca. eu, The location of this hotel is splendid for those who want to wake up to breathtaking views of the gulf of Cagliari and spend their day lazying on the beach. The hotel itself isn’t in the greatest shape but the ground floor has been completely refurbished. The rooms on the ground floor are simple, nice and clean with fully renovated bathrooms while the first and second floor rooms are patiently awaiting their makeover. The views from the upper floors are spectacular and most feature a small balcony as well. Next to the hotel, there is a restaurant perfect for outdoor dining during the hot summer nights. Q46 rooms (singles €50 - 120, doubles €80 - 160). Breakfast included. PALKW hhh

Due Colonne B-3, via Sardegna 4, tel. (+39) 070 65

87 10, fax (+39) 070 65 47 83, hotelduecolonne@, Literally feet away from the main shopping streets, bars and restaurants this hotel is located in the heart of Cagliari’s historical city centre. Cosy and relaxing atmosphere, beautifully refurbished and refined rooms. The staff is very friendly and helpful. Though there isn’t a restaurant on the premises, the hotel offers a family style breakfast room, where you can enjoy your afternoon tea after a long day of sightseeing and shopping. Wi-Fi is available only on the first floor and not in the rooms. Q23 rooms (singles €68, doubles €110 - 130, suites €140). Breakfast included. PTJAUW hhh

Almea G-3, via Rockefeller 27, tel. (+39) 328 009 51 51, This B&B is conveniently located in a smart, residential part of town, close to main roads, public transport, the Sant’Elia Stadium and the basketball/volleyball arena. The rooms are spacious and clean and there is a comfy communal living room. All the rooms have a lovely view of the gulf of Cagliari, looking either east or west. The homemade breakfast is served by the very hospitable host. Overall, the feeling of the place is friendly and definitely homely. Q 3 rooms (singles €35 - €40, doubles €70 - €75). PLGXW January - March 2013


Where to stay
Art Rooms B-3, via Sant’Ignazio da Laconi 26, tel. (+39) 070 68 09 53/(+39) 333 648 08 99, info@bbartrooms. it, Art Rooms is very centrally located, no more than a five-minute walk to piazza Yenne and the busy Stampace nightlife. Guests can take advantage of a large, luminous common room for breakfast, which is self-service and has no time limit, so it means you can take it easy when you surface after a late night out! Rooms are large, impeccably clean and have en-suite bathrooms. The friendly couple who run the place are helpful and will be happy to give out useful information to plan activities during your stay. Q 3 rooms (singles €30 - €45, doubles €60 - €80, triple €90 - €120). PJGXW Il Cagliarese C-3, via Porcile 19, tel. (+39) 339 654 40 83,, This B&B is just a few metres off via Roma and is right in ‘restaurant world’. It gives a very cosy feeling right from the start, with its soft lights and its quiet environment. Its rooms and bathrooms are spotless and fully equipped and get cleaned every day. It’s also very near buses to and from Poetto beach, as well as the station and the shopping streets. In the surrounding areas there are also many free parking places, if you’re travelling by car. Breakfast is served by the owner and is made special by homemade jams and cakes. Also a wide selection of complimentary teas and coffees is available for guests. Q 3 rooms (doubles €60 - €70). PJGW
16, tel. (+39) 339 478 45 75/(+39) 070 65 98 32,, Though right in the very centre of town, just few minutes away from restaurants and pubs, Il Giardino Segreto, (‘the secret garden’ in Italian), lives up to the expectations of its name. It is located at the back of an inner courtyard, which gives the visitors the feeling they’re discovering a hidden hamlet. The rooms are very well furnished and have en-suite bathrooms, as well as satellite TV and a safe to store your diamonds. Q 4 rooms (singles €60 - 65, doubles €70 - €90). PJGW

Livingstone A-3, via XXIX Novembre 6, tel. (+39) 347

433 23 83, Situated in a handy position for those using public transport, just five minutes walk from the train and bus stations, this B&B welcomes its guest with a large common area. All rooms are fully equipped, modern, more than clean and have an exotic touch. Bathrooms all have spacious showers and towels are changed every two nights. The owner is well travelled and his experience in tourism shows when it comes to meeting high standards and speaking English, French, German or Spanish. There’s even a large terraced garden, with a gazebo, where guests can also enjoy fresh fruit and bread for their continental breakfast, and where smokers can have their nicotine fix, in an otherwise completely smoke-free environment. The owner can also arrange pick-up service to and from the airport. Q 3 rooms (singles €35 - €45, doubles €55 - €70). PGXW

Il Giardino Segreto B-3, via Sant’Ignazio da Laconi

Residenza Kastrum B-2, via Canelles 78, tel. (+39) 348 001 22 80,, This exquisite establishment has one double room that looks onto the Cathedral and the Royal Palace; two other doubles that look down over Stampace, the harbour and the western part the gulf of Cagliari; the attic room, which can be either used as a suite or as two attached doubles. All rooms are very well furnished and have en-suite bathrooms, the linen and wallpaper are of warm, Mediterranean colours. There’s an absolutely magnificent terrace, available for morning breakfast or a glass of wine watching the sun go down behind the mountains. Breakfast is self-catering. Q 4 rooms (doubles €70 - €80, triple €90 - €120, suite €80 - €150). PJGXW

Marina Cagliari B-3, scalette San Sepolcro, tel. (+39) 070 67 08 18, fax (+39) 070 68 24 21,, In what used to be a school in the heart of the city, you’ll find the hostel, that was inaugurated in 2009. It’s only minutes away from basically everything there is to see in Cagliari’s old town. It has a large inner-courtyard and a spacious common room, which is also the area dedicated to the well stocked hostel bar. The bar is lively, popular and it organises plenty of weekend events, live music, dj sets, thus entertaining international backpackers and locals alike. The rooms and the dorms all have en-suite bathrooms and many of them have mezzanine floors and lovely wooden ceilings, as well as fridges and TVs. Q 35 rooms. Rates per person: single room €40, double room €30, triple/quad room €25, dormitory €22. Extra charge for Hostelling International membership €3 per night. Breakfast included. PJHAEGXW

La Ghirlanda B-3, via Baylle 7, tel. (+39) 070 204 06

10/(+39) 339 889 26 48,, www. In the heart of the Marina quarter, this B&B has the feeling of a small and smart hotel. This was once an exclusive flat on a late 19th century building. Traces of its past are to be found in some of the decors and the spacious rooms. Choose the one which suits you best: one with a balcony looking onto the harbour and the hustle and bustle of the street below or a quieter and more intimate large-size bedroom at the back? All the rooms are different from one another, but have in common elegance and outstanding attention to details. Q 5 rooms (singles €60 - €70, doubles €75 - €95, triple €100 - €120). PJGW

Short term rental
070 48 58 61, fax (+39) 070 48 69 70, hotelresidence@, Residence Ulivi e Palme does not just appeal to your short term traveller but also to those who wish to stay for longer. The mini-studios are confortable and spacious rooms, all en-suite with TV, hairdryer, telephone, central heating and self-contained kitchens. It also provides two meeting rooms that can hold up to 150 guests. There are no lack of sports facilities, an indoor swimming pool and a gym both run by a sports club offer special rates for the guests, while the two tennis courts on the premises are free of charge. Situated on the fourth floor with a panoramic view of the lagoon of Molentargius, the restaurant offers traditional cuisine in a friendly and warm environment. Q 23 rooms (singles €68, doubles €102), 104 mini-apartments (single studio flat €357 per week, double occupancy studio €525 per week). PTHAFLKW

Residence Ulivi e Palme G-1, via Bembo 25, tel. (+39)

31 64/(+39) 338 724 14 83, fax (+39) 070 796 20 32,, This family-run business is at the ground floor of a recently renovated early 20th century villa. Guests are plunged in history in the large sitting room, surrounded by pristine antiques, prints and art nouveau floor tiles. The bedrooms are the perfect balance of modernity and elegant past. All en-suite bathrooms are new and immaculate. In the warmer months, guests can make the most of a large garden, with deckchairs and sun umbrellas. The charming and well-travelled owner, who speaks fluent English and French, can arrange a pick-up service at the airport and a complimentary one-hour-long tour of the city. Q 3 rooms (singles €50 - €65, doubles €70 - €90). PAIGBW

La Peonia G-1, via Riva Villasanta 77, tel. (+39) 070 51

Cagliari In Your Pocket

Symbol key
P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas 6 Animal friendly R Internet A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking M Nearest station


Sardinian cuisine
Sardinian cuisine lives up to the expectations that visitors may have when approaching an Italian restaurant. Despite its openness and general hospitality, the island remains tightly rooted to its social and cultural traditions and food is no exception. Sardinians are jealously bound to the old recipes, passed on generation after generation. Even if Sardinian cities are by all means modern and European, inland it remains essentially rural and represents a culinary goldmine. Restaurants in Cagliari have access to an official and unofficial market of fresh goods, coming from the countryside, the hills and mountains. Often city chefs rely on a thick network of small farmers, butchers, fishermen and hunters from whom they get the freshest vegetables, traditionally made cheeses, hams and sausages, but also game, such as wild boar, hare, dear and different types of birds. Cagliari is also a port city and is therefore blessed by the constant inflow of fresh seafood, both in markets and in restaurants. This tradition has been enhanced by top restaurants and chefs, which often blend the classic local dishes with more modern and sophisticated atmospheres, cooking techniques and tastes. The final result is a culinary experience which is more often than not enticing, surprising and fulfilling. Cagliari restaurants generally serve ample portions throughout all the courses. The typical meal is made of hors d’oeuvres, consisting of different small plates, whose given intention is to set your body and soul for more food, but are often so generous that they represent a whole meal. The first course is mostly based on pasta or rice, in a virtually countless variety of shapes, sizes and condiments. Second courses are usually meat or fish, and maybe a vegetable-based side dish. Therefore the concept itself of a main course doesn’t really exist in Sardinia, so forget those large plates with a mixture of rice, meat and vegetables, which are typical of Northern European cuisine. Having said this, when ordering food in a Cagliari restaurant do not in any way feel obliged to go for the whole shebang. You can easily browse through the menu and carefully select your options, especially when you have company to share your meal with. Sardinians eat quite late, even for continental Italian standards. In this respect, Spanish influence is still to be felt. Lunch won’t be much before 13:00 and can go on until 16:00, depending where you are and how much you’re prepared to eat. Dinner is not before 20:00, but is often much later... the real thing this is and not some tourist trap, of which thank God there are very few in town. Most restaurants, having been open for lunch, give their kitchen staff a few hours break in the afternoon, meaning that chefs don’t get back to their stoves and start preparing for the evening meals before 18:30. Do give them enough time to do what they’re best at, or else you might be disappointed. Price guide € expect to have more than enough to eat and not spend more than €12 - €15 €€ a two course-meal and some table wine could cost you between €20 - €25 €€€ a full three-course meal won’t cost you less than €35 €€€€ you’re in a top-end restaurant and be prepared to spend over €50

Fast food
RetroBurger B-3, via Azuni 98, tel. (+39) 388 850 60 85. Run by Daniele and Denisa, a very friendly couple indeed, this small establishment started up quietly in 2010, soon becoming one the best culinary surprises in town. As voices of its burger delights spread around Cagliari, in a matter of a few months the place became fashionable and packed as a result, without however losing the quality of its service. They make beef, horse, lamb or donkey burgers, with a list of exciting combinations of vegetables and condiments to go with them. Try the Istumistu burger, with turnip, goat’s milk cheese, walnuts and honey; or the Wurubu, with dry pears and apples, pine nuts, rocket and mint. All the other many combinations are equally mouth-watering. There also are some vegetarian options and fluent English is spoken in the house. QOpen 20:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 23:30. Closed Tue. €. PJG

58 70, fax (+39) 070 66 58 78,, www. As its name (‘Old Inn’) suggests, this has been a long-lasting restaurant and even claims to be the city’s oldest, founded as it was in 1852 to give food and shelter to visitors and dockers. It’s located in the Marina quarter and can easily be defined as being above average. Although supported by its ultra-centenary history, Antica Hostaria’s reputation is solidly based on the quality of its traditional Italian and local recipes, the freshness of the fish and the reserved atmosphere. Frequented by the city’s elite, this restaurant is not about fashion and glamour, but tradition, elegance and quality. QOpen 12:45 - 15:30, 20:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. €€€. PJAG

Antica Hostaria B-3, via Cavour 60, tel. (+39) 070 66

070 65 39 12. Located in an area with the highest density of restaurant population in town, Crackers stands out for the quality of its service and its Piedmontese recipes, which make it an exception in Cagliari. This establishment is famous for its different types of risotto, often made with seasonal products, such as delicious and rare truffles, or with barolo, a well-known Italian wine. Another house special is the boiled meat trolley, which is brought around the dining hall from table to table. The different types and cuts of meat are carved in front of you, adding a bit of drama to your luncheon. Wrap it all up with a portion of their home-made tiramisù. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 20:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PAG fax (+39) 070 34 07 55, This restaurant is located inside Caesar’s Hotel and it more than matches its standards and style. Despite the largeness of the halls, the interior remains intimate, elegant and relaxing. Lots of space between the tables avoids the place from getting too cramped, even when at its busiest. Italian cuisine, with many typical Sardinian dishes on the menu, cleverly thought, well cooked and even better presented; the

Crackers B-3, corso Vittorio Emanuele II 195, tel. (+39)

Da Cesare G-3, via Darwin 2, tel. (+39) 070 30 47 68,

January - March 2013


same is to be said about the rich buffet. Staff is exceptionally friendly, which is not something you would necessarily expect in such a large establishment. QOpen 12:30 - 15:00 (buffet only), 20:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 - 15:00, 20:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 15:00. €€€. PAG 65 81 99. This small and cosy restaurant is a family-run business, with Gian Paolo and his sister Rita welcoming all customers with friendly smiles and a chat. They serve a fixed menu, so don’t expect à la carte. Both fish and meat are always fresh and so are their vegetables. Especially good are their chicory, anchovies, walnuts and feta cheese salads, as well as their ox carpaccio with artichokes, mushrooms, rocket and flakes of parmesan cheese. It is quiet and reserved, therefore ideal for your romantic dinners. It is a good idea to book a table at weekends, as it does get quite busy. QOpen 20:00 - 23:30. Closed Mon, Tue. €€. PJG 80 30,, In a warm and familiar atmosphere this steak house is the perfect place for a quiet evening with friends. They propose a careful selection of over 250 regional and national wines, as well as international labels to choose from. They offer a variety of mouth-watering steaks that can be easily accompanied by a glass of wine, or why not a bottle. This meat and wine lovers heaven has also a wide variety of cheeses and cold cuts available and to finish off your evening with a boom, handmade desserts are also part of the menu. QOpen 13:00 - 15:00, 19:30 - 23:00, Sat 19:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PJAG

Sa Piola B-3, vico Santa Margherita 3, tel. (+39) 070

Dr Ampex C-2, via San Giacomo 35, tel. (+39) 070

66 67 14. Informal atmosphere yet elegant and almost rustic table sets, Sa Piola uses strictly the freshest and highest quality local products to create some of the simplest and most exquisite Sardinian specialities you have ever tasted. Special attention is paid to raw food, in particular fish. Among some of the delights, try the home-made Sardinian fregola (fresh pasta rolled into tiny balls), braised meat with cannonau wine, fish and tempura vegetables, as well as the famous and very typical Sardinian dessert, seadas with honey and fresh lemon or orange peel. All are a must! QOpen 12:00 - 15:30, 19:00 - 24:00, Sun 19:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PJAG

La Terra di Mezzo B-3, via Portoscalas 1, tel. (+39)
070 66 28 89, This is the first ever vegetarian restaurant in town, located about three minutes’ walk away from piazza Yenne, in a small yet charming old building. A rich buffet is laid on a large table at the end of the room and relentlessly filled up with steaming plates of all kinds, as well as a good variety of salads and other cold dishes. There are also some good Belgian beers on tap to help you through your meal. QOpen 12:45 - 15:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €. PJAUG

Kuvee B-2, via San Giovanni 224, tel. (+39) 347 332

Vittorio Emanuele II 320, tel. (+39) 070 667 03 35. Not your usual pizze r i a! Th i s s m a l l parlour ser ves pizza by the metre. Whether you would like a small slice or 2 metres, it will be hard to choose from the many ingredients available and you will end up wanting more than just one slice. Don’t expect tables or service since this happening parlour serves mainly take-away and delivery pizza. Recommended as a mid-afternoon snack while walking around the old Stampace quarter, or if you just fancy an informal and quick dinner. QOpen 12:00 14:30, 18:40 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 18:40 - 23:30. Closed Mon. €. PG

Luigi Pomata C-3, viale Regina Margherita 18, tel. (+39) 070 67 20 58,, www. Having worked and prepared dishes for some of the most powerful politicians of our times and show biz stars, it is now your turn to try some of his spectacular creations. Driven by passion and excellence, Luigi Pomata is a well renowned chef that decided to open his own restaurant back in 2006. With a minimalist décor, a quiet environment and the opportunity to eat outside when the weather allows it, this lovely restaurant offers a variety of dishes to choose from, such as the bluefin tuna fillet seared in a pan with Carloforte braised red onion and cannonau wine sauce. Famous for red tuna fish and fresh fish dishes that will leave your mouth-watering. Over the years, this place has become the ‘it’ place to go to for the local crowd. You can also indulge in some oriental fusion from the sumptuous sushi bar and delight yourself with a good glass of wine. QOpen 13:00 - 15:00, 20:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€€. PAGBX

Federico Nan sen A- 3, corso

30,, Basilio was born in 1950 due to a bet. The great success of the restaurant led to the renewal of the premises in 1991. Gianfranco Deidda learned from his father’s experience and managed to create a pleasant environment for customers who decide to spend a few hours in good company while enjoying the delicious dishes of local and national culinary tradition. This rustic style restaurant offers a welcoming atmosphere and some delicious, traditional Sardinian dishes such as spaghetti with clams and bottarga (grated dry mullet eggs), risotto alla pescatora, donkey meat, horse parasangue (a particular cut of meat) and so much more. QOpen 12:30 - 15:00, 20:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun, 12 - 22 August. €€€. PAG

Basilio C-2, via Satta 112/A, tel. (+39) 070 48 03

Koch F-1, via Koch 1, tel. (+39) 070 50 09 10, This classy pizzeria is located slightly off the beaten track, in a residential part of the city. There’s lots of space and an elegant, modern lobby where you can wait before getting you table. Customers are all welcomed by a flute of prosecco (a type of Italian wine, comparable to champagne) and taken care of by very professional and friendly staff. What makes this place outstanding is the very good selection of pizzas, especially the different kinds of calzone (a type of stuffed pizza). Don’t miss the one filled with spinach and ricotta cheese. You’re better off if you’re driving a car, but don’t worry: there is no shortage of parking space. QOpen 20:00 - 24:00. €€. PAG

Cagliari In Your Pocket



Cafés & bistros
78 75. The name of this cafe says it all. This establishment is one the many bars looking onto central piazza Yenne. It has a pleasant terrace with tables and gazebos. It changes its character during the day. It serves early morning breakfast the Italian way: that is cappuccino and pastries. During daytime it has a good selection of fresh salads, sandwiches and focacce. During the evening and nights it becomes a bar, serving cocktails and beers, as well as ice-creams. It gets really crowded at weekends and during the summer months. QOpen 06:30 - 02:00. Jan - Feb closed Sun. PJGBXW

Bar Centrale B-3, piazza Yenne 34, tel. (+39) 070 65

off their dancing skills and fashionable clothes. And for all of you feline-loving creatures, watch out for the beautifully-kept and well-known Exmà cats, that love sunbathing in the afternoon warmth! QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 13:00, 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. PGBXW

Ice-cream parlours
96 01, Many Cagliaritani say that Cremeria Ritz, in the heart of Stampace, serves the creamiest, the freshest, and in a word, the finest ice-cream in town. You be the judge, but we happen to agree that most of the flavours here, particularly hazelnut, pistachio and stracciatella (chocolate chip) are to die for. And the super sapori di Sardegna (dark chocolate with almond and orange) is so sinful it should be made illegal. Cremeria Ritz also offers a variety of coeliac-friendly gluten-free flavours and special low calorie options for those watching their waist line. They’re celebrating 10 years of ice-cream selling this year and have obviously got it right! QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. PJG

Cremeria Ritz B-3, via Sassari 70, tel. (+39) 329 540

Choco & Tea B-3, via Manno 7, tel./fax (+39) 070 68 05 22, Many original features of the 19th century coach house have been maintained in what is now a refined tea room and chocolate shop. Choco & Tea boasts many mouth-watering delicacies including handmade ice-cream, local cakes, wines, sweets and chocolates, not to mention the best cappuccinos in town! You’ll be spoilt for choice with a Sardinian, Italian and international menu at lunchtime and unable to resist the many options available for an exquisite afternoon tea. Choco & Tea is right in the heart of the old town - perfect for that shopping break with a difference. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. PTJAUGBXW Exmà Café C-3, via San Lucifero 71, tel. (+39) 070 65
82 36, Hidden inside the thick walls of the former city slaughterhouse and therefore not visible from the street, this charming cafeteria is open for Exmà visitors and regular customers alike. Fresh pastries and cappuccinos for Italian style breakfast, but also sandwiches or other snacks during the day. In the evenings, weekends in particular, there are often DJs playing music while punters enjoy their cocktails on the terrace-garden gazebos, before they bounce off to show

L’Isola del Gelato B-3, piazza Yenne 35, tel. (+39) 070

65 98 24. This is more than just an ice-cream parlour and has become a point of reference for locals and tourists. It has an outdoor terrace from where you can see the harbour, keeping an eye on your ship and making sure it doesn’t leave without you! Inside the venue, your eyes will face the explosion of colours provided by the 90-odd different types of fresh, homemade ice-creams. If it’s something a bit more elaborate that you are after, there are fruit cakes and special yogurts. It is also a cafe, so it has everything you can normally get in Cagliari bars, from cappuccino to beers, wines and liquors. Though it can get very busy during peak times, service is generally swift and friendly. Q Open 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. PTJ6GBX

January - March 2013


Covoartcafe B-3, via Barcellona 49, tel. (+39) 320 235
29 45, Just yards away from via Roma, this small bar, though gloomy at times, gets a good vibe, especially on busy nights. It likes to consider itself as a kind of art gallery, or at least a place where local artists can show their latest works and every month there’s a new collection to look through while having your drink. They have delicious German pils and creamy Irish stout, both on tap, well-kept and even better served. They are also keen on music, so the house gives plenty of space for local musicians and DJs to perform live, spanning across a large range of styles and movements, the most frequent ones being folk, blues, rock, but also soul, hip-hop or techno, depending on the night. The atmosphere is laid-back, international-friendly and it’s easy to pick up a chat with some of the locals. Special offers for beer on Tuesday nights! QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJEG

Linea Notturna A-3, via Mameli 154, tel. (+39) 329
572 58 22,, This establishment is prime in Cagliari’s nightlife. Although it has changed hands a number of times, it has always maintained its good reputation. The venue itself is incredibly versatile, with a central bar in the main room, a stage for live music, an indoor balcony-lounge area which gives onto the main room. There’s also a large outdoor zone, also with bars. Linea Notturna can easily be sold out on a Wednesday for a punk-rock gig and still be totally packed with white collars and wannabe starlets on high heels, on their trendy night out at weekends. The place is eventful and its music varies a lot, bringing different sorts of customers along. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:30 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEBX

Vinvoglio Wine Jazz Club B-3, via Lamarmora 45, tel. (+39) 328 359 28 77, Once you’ve climbed all the way up to Castello, you’ll be surprised to come across this quite small two-room establishment. It’s a wine bar that mainly serves Sardinian wines, without being afraid to go international, with bottles from Chile, California or Australia, to name a few. Sardinian hams and cheeses are devised to go along with your goblet, but you should also try a slice of pecorino cheese with a spread of wine jelly (a sort of home-made grape jam). This said, the highlight of this venue is live jazz at least twice a week, but dates vary a lot, though the sessions start invariably around 21:00, definitely early for Cagliari standards. Anyhow, you’re better off giving Antonio, the manager, a call to double-check. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PJEGW

Ritual B-3, via Università 33, tel. (+39) 070 65 20 71. Originally a stable, then a powder factory for ammunition during the Pisan period and now a very lively nightlife disco that remains open till the wee hours of the morning. Walking into Ritual is like taking a journey back in time. This magnificent two level cave-like night bar has become the host to some of the best DJs around and to some incredible parties. Open all year long, seven days a week from early mornings till early mornings! On Thursday, you can stop by and enjoy a glass of wine or a cocktail, nibble on some finger food and delight yourself with some live music in a candlelight atmosphere. On Fridays and Saturdays the party starts late at night, turning the venue into the centre of Cagliari’s underground nightlife, both literally and figuratively, for those who want to enjoy a good DJ set and good quality house music. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. JEB

Gay Cagliari
Cagliari is an overall tolerant city, its population is curious and welcomes changes. It can therefore be comfortably defined as gay tolerant. However, don’t imagine a Mediterranean version of London or San Francisco. It certainly isn’t. And although cagliaritani have grown accustomed to the presence of homosexuals as a reality of everyday professional and social life, it probably isn’t ready yet for the most open displays of affection or eccentricity. Socially speaking, there is no proper gay area or gay club in Cagliari, as you might find in many other cities. There are a number of gay-friendly bars, restaurants, hotels and B&Bs, especially around piazza Yenne. The gay scene is never less alive and kicking. There is a very active cultural organisation called ARC (Associazione Culturale Gay Lesbica Bisessuale Transgender Cagliari, www.associazionearc. eu), which is on the forefront of gay rights and antidiscrimination campaigns.

Birroteca al Merlo Parlante B-3, via Portoscalas 69, tel. (+39) 333 977 45 73. One of the oldest pubs in town, it’s located in a narrow alleyway off corso Vittorio Emanuele II. The venue in itself is one long corridor, with tables on both sides and it does get a bit cramped, especially at weekends. However, this traditional beer temple works wonders for those of you who want to socialise, because table sharing is the pub’s policy and you’ll probably end up exchanging emails and promises of future visits with random punters the moment you leave your table! Noisy and busy, the pub has a selection of around 200 different beers and some 50 different types of sandwiches for when you get the munchies. And don’t forget to carve your name on the table! QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. PJG Il Birrificio di Cagliari G-1, via Newton 24, tel. (+39)
070 456 05 69,, www. This place is well worth the drive or the bus ride (by route 15) to get there. Somewhere in between a pub and a restaurant, its main feature are without a hint of a doubt its fantastic beers, which are all brewed in situ with as much care as a surgeon on a patient! The brewing machinery is visible from the main lounge, definitely setting an appropriate atmosphere. There’s a lager, a stout, a bitter and weiss beer which are named after Cagliari’s historical quarters. There are also seasonal beers, such as Poetto, which is a Belgian style blanche beer, light and breezy, perfect for the summer. Very good pub food, with classics such as beef stew, roast pork with bacon and potatoes or chicken curry. Vegetarian- and coeliac-friendly options are available, as well as a kids menu. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PTALG

Rainbow@Cafè Vigna Clara D-1, via Pierluigi

da Palestrina 32, MGennari, tel. (+39) 345 803 05 03/(+39) 347 529 62 64, rainbowcafe@tiscali. it. Probably the only strictly gay bar in town, Rainbow is a somewhat down-to-earth establishment and most of the fun is provided by the jolly music, the loud festive crowd and the occasional drag queen show. It’s located in a residential and fairly central part of town, within 20 minutes walking distance from Saint Remy Rampart. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 02:00. PUG

Cagliari In Your Pocket

What to see
52 84, The basilica of the Holy Cross was built in the 16th century along a section of the city walls which was given the same name, Holy Cross Rampart (Bastione di Santa Croce). Prior to its construction, on the same ground was the synagogue. After the expulsion of the Jews from all territories under the Spanish Crown in 1492, the temple was demolished and replaced by the basilica. Santa Croce was assigned to the Jesuits, until 1773, when the Society of Jesus was suppressed. The basilica was then assigned to the knightly Order of Saints Maurice and Lazarus. Although its conditions are not pristine, it has recently undergone some restoration work. On Sunday mornings it’s the weekly appointment for traditional Catholics, who attend Latin mass. QOpen 09:30 - 12:00. Admission free.


Basilica of the Holy Cross (Basilica di Santa Croce) B-2, via Corte d’Appello 44, tel. (+39) 070 235

Cathedral Museum (Museo del Duomo) B-3, via

The Elephant Tower

© Hans Peter Schaefer

Castello in Sardinian is called Castedd’e susu, which means ‘upper castle’, because this is what it was and, from an architectural point of view, still is. Castello is perched on the top of a white rock which looks directly onto the gulf of Cagliari. The site was used in the remote past, though probably not urbanised: the Punic and Roman cisterns built to collect water and the Roman amphitheatre carved out of one of its slopes are just two examples. It wasn’t until the 13th century, when the Pisans began creating their commercial outposts in Sardinia, that the strategic importance of Castello became apparent. They decided to take control of the hill and soon blocked access to it, fortifying the rock with heavy walls and three large towers, two of which are still in pristine condition and are among the main attactions Cagliari has to offer. They also built the Cathedral. When the Aragonese and then the Spanish took over power in Sardinia (14th-18th century), they kept Cagliari as their capital. They improved and enlarged the walls of the castle, modernising the defensive system. Sardinians were effectively cut out from power and important positions, and were only allowed to have humble jobs during daytime. When the day drew to an end, a horn was the signal for the local population to leave the castle or else be even thrown down from the walls. The Savoy family took power at the beginning of the 18th century and also made many improvements, but the most radical changes occurred in the 19th century, when Cagliari, and therefore Castello, stopped being a military fortress. Instead of mighty defensive bastions, the new promenades and terraces (e.g. Saint Remy Rampart and Buon Cammino) became the places where the cagliaritani could mingle and socialise. Although the richer families have left, and the population has decreased over the years, Castello is living a new phase, buildings are being restored, there are new bars and restaurants; art galleries and shops are being opened and it is overall coming back to life, after generations of romantic but decadent neglect.

del Fossario 5, tel. (+39) 070 65 24 98/(+39) 333 765 98 75. The museum hosts the Treasure of the Cathedral, which had long remained under lock and key. Among the most interesting works on display, a 15th century triptych, known as the Triptych of Clement VII, allegedly by Flemish painter Rogier Van der Weyden. Rich 16th, 17th and 18th liturgical vestments can be seen, as well the much older ones which belonged to Saint Augustine. On the first of the three floors of the museum there is a small but precious collection of silver chalices, crosses and shrines, some of which date back as far as the 14th century. At the moment, information in the museum is only in Italian and so are the guided tours. QOpen Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:30. Admission €4, conc. €2.50.

4, tel. (+39) 070 66 38 37, The church of St Mary became the city’s cathedral in the 13th century. Few traces of the medieval structure remain: the steeple, the two Romanesque side doors and the so-called Pisan Chapel, dedicated to the Sacred Heart. As it is today, the cathedral has a latin-cross plan, with a transept and three naves. During the 17th century, the building underwent its first major reconstruction work. The inside and the façade were changed, following the Baroque fashion of the time. It was not until the 1930s that the façade was yet again restyled, according to a Neo-Romanesque pattern. The Sanctuary of the Martyrs hosted in the crypt is home to 179 niches containing relics of Cagliari’s martyrs. QOpen 07:30 - 12:00, 16:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:30. Admission free.

Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption (Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta) B-2, piazza Palazzo

Elephant Tower (Torre dell’Elefante) B-3, piazza San

Giuseppe, tel. (+39) 320 052 20 83. This mighty tower was built by architect Giovanni Capula in 1307 on the Castello hill, facing the sea. Along with the other two towers, St Pancras and Eagle (which no longer exists), it was intended to guard one of the main entrances to Castello and to bolster the city walls, which were being built in the same period. Elephant Tower occupied the most south-western point of the castle. Its dominant position is nowadays less apparent due to a number of civilian and military buildings which surround it, built in the 17th and 18th centuries. Similarly to the St Pancras Tower, it is made from local limestone and its wooden floors divide it in four levels. During the Aragonese domination, a wall on the northern side was built, allowing the tower to be used for storage and as a prison. On the southern wall of the tower a small statue of an elephant is still visible, hence the name of the site, as well as the original Pisan families’ coats of arms. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4, conc. €2.50.

January - March 2013


What to see
Indoor Promenade (Passeggiata Coperta) B/C3, piazza Costituzione, tel. (+39) 347 000 39 88, The Indoor Promenade is contemporary to the Saint Remy Rampart and it is in fact built within its structure. Featuring shiny marble floors, high ceilings, supported by grand arches and pillars, it has been used as a location for exhibitions since as early as the 1930s and it was then heavily damaged by WWII air-raids. It was brought back to its original aspect, further refurbished in the 1980s and again recently. It is enshrined within the old city fortified walls, parts of which are currently visible inside. This fine venue is managed and used by the city authorities to host temporary exhibitions and installations, as well as meetings and conferences. Q Closed for repairs.

Old Town Hall (Antico Palazzo di Città) B-3, piazza Palazzo 6, tel. (+39) 070 677 64 82. The Old Town Hall probably dates back to as early as the 14th century. It was destined to host the assemblies of the city representatives and then the Town Hall, before the new one was built. Its present-day aspect is an example of 18th century Piedmontese-Baroque. Above the entrance door, an inscription in memory of the visit by Emperor Charles V and above that, Cagliari’s coat of arms. It then became the city’s conservatoire and it’s now a cultural space used by the city council to host exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4, conc. €2.50. U Royal Palace (Palazzo Regio) B-2, piazza Palazzo 1, tel. (+39) 070 409 24 28. The Royal Palace has existed since the 14th century as the residence of Aragonese, Spanish and then Savoy Viceroys. The present-day setting of the building is the result of major restoration works by Savoy military engineers in the 18th century. Between 1779 and 1815, it became the official residence of the Savoy court, during their exile from Turin due to the French occupation of Piedmont. When Cagliari ceased to be the official capital of the Kingdom, the Palace lost its institutional role and came under the Provincial authority, which it still is. The Palace can be visited and although there aren’t any guided tours as such, with the aid of audio-visual equipment (for the moment only in Italian), it is possible to wonder through the 18th century halls, adorned with fine painting and frescoes. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 18:30. Admission free.
B/C-3, piazza Costituzione. Probably the most noticeable monument in Cagliari. It was built in white limestone at the end of the 19th century, after Cagliari ceased to be a military fortress and gradually its defensive walls were pulled down. It is the result of three fortified bastions which were then joined together. From piazza Costituzione, the first thing you see is a mighty double staircase surmounted by a large arch. Once you reach the top, you are met by a vast terrace with benches and palm trees. The view is breath-taking. You don’t have to walk up all the steps and the lazy visitor can take the lift (open 24/7, free of charge), which is about 100m further up along viale Regina Elena. Don’t miss the romantic sunset, before you walk down to the Marina quarter for dinner. Q Open 24/7. Admission free. The Royal Palace © Hans Peter Schaefer

allowing it to be used as a fortified warehouse and lodgings for civil servants. Until the end of the 19th century, the tower was used as a jail. At the beginning of the 20th century, the tower underwent major restoration work and was brought back to its original 3-wall shape. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4, conc. €2.50.

Saint Remy Rampart (Bastione Saint Remy)

15, This culture and arts centre takes its name from the area in which it’s located: the old Jewish quarter within the walls of Castello. The area only actually acquired the nickname ‘the Ghetto’ in the last century, when the castle’s fortifications ceased their military function and, in their dereliction, came to serve as makeshift living space for some of the city’s poorest citizens. Much of the area was restored in the 1990s and the arts centre was opened in 2000. It hosts various exhibitions throughout the year, so there is always something new and interesting to see. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Special exhibitions may charge an admission fee. U

The Ghetto (Centro Comunale d’Arte e Cultura Il Ghetto) B-2, via Santa Croce 18, tel. (+39) 070 640 21

St Pancras Tower (Torre di San Pancrazio) B-2, piazza Indipendenza, tel. (+39) 070 677 64 00. The St Pancras Tower was built in 1305 on the highest peak of what is now known as Castello. The construction was commissioned to Sardinian architect Giovanni Capula and it was intended to play a pivotal role in the city’s new defensive system, protecting the northern entrance of Castello. The tower is made of white limestone and is open on the side facing piazza Indipendenza. During the Aragonese and then Spanish domination, the fourth wall of the tower was completed, Cagliari In Your Pocket

67 51, The University of Cagliari was officially founded at the beginning of the 17th century, but it had to wait until 1770 to have its own monumental building. Together with the annexed seminar, it was built on a part of the old walls, just yards away from the Elephant Tower and present-day Saint Remy Rampart. The two buildings are adjacent, structured on three levels and each has its own entrance: one leads to the administrative offices of the rectorate and the other to the University Library. Both have inner courtyards and it’s usually possible to reach the back and have a small walk on part of the old city walls, with inspiring views of the harbour and the gulf of Cagliari. The ground floor of the former College building also hosts the Collezione Sarda Luigi Piloni, consisting of seven rooms where ancient maps and prints, Sardinian costumes and artefacts, as well as local religious art and jewellery, are on display. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. U

University and Old College (Palazzo dell’Università ed ex Seminario) B-3, via Università 40, tel. (+39) 070

What to see
Citadel of Museums (Cittadella dei Musei)
The Citadel of Museums is situated just north of Castello, and since the major works carried out by military architects Rocco Cappellino and the Palearo brothers in the 16th century, it is included within perimeter of the fortification system of the city, subsequently extended and improved by the Savoys during the 18th century. It was principally used as an arsenal and foundry, as well as a jail and subsequently barracks. Heavily damaged in WWII, it was later abandoned and only in the 1960s it was destined to host a number of museums and areas for temporary exhibitions. Visitors can enjoy a cafe with a pleasant terrace and a somewhat limited selection of snacks. The area also has amazing views of the gulf of Cagliari. Clemente Susini created his wax models, which are still today a very realistic representation of parts of the human body. The collection got to Cagliari after it was bought by King Carlo Felice, who wanted to have it on display in his palace as a marvel of those times. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €1.50, conc. €0.50.


Marina was already urbanised more than two thousand years ago and its life has always been centred around the harbour. It was abandoned for centuries during the Middle Ages, but in the the 13th century the Pisans set up their commercial activities in the area then called Lapola, between the waterfront and Castello, they built walls around it and the quarter has flourished ever since. When the defensive walls which surrounded the Marina were pulled down in the 19th century, the quarter opened up to the rest of the city and the wide streets that mark its borders are still important features: via Roma, that runs along the port, with its arcades, cafes and shops; viale Regina Margherita, and its exclusive restaurants, leading up to Saint Remy Rampart; largo Carlo Felice, with its banks and shops, is still one of the city’s main arteries. However, to get the feel of the Marina, you must venture into the narrow streets, just behind via Roma, and hear the voices of its multi-ethnic population talking from window to window, the delicious smells coming from the kitchens of its many restaurants and just walk around.

Stefano Cardu) B-2, piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 65 18 88. The exhibits on display are part of Stefano Cardu’s collection of Siamese and Oriental art, which he gathered during the long period he spent in present-day Thailand. When he returned to Cagliari, he donated the collection to the city. It includes precious pottery; various objects made of ivory, among which some Japanese miniature statues representing social stereotypes and dragons; silver jewellery; weapons, such as daggers, swords and spears; paintings and furniture. Currently on display is also a private collection of Burmese art, especially wood statues. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €2, conc. €1. U National Archaeological Museum (Museo Archeologico Nazionale) B/C-1, piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39)

Museum of Siamese Art (Museo d’Arte Siamese

070 65 59 11, The museum is housed within the old walls of the Royal Arsenal (Regio Arsenale). The exhibits on display give a fascinating outlook on Sardinia’s ancient history. It displays archaeological finds dating as far back as the Pre-Nuragic era (6000BC) and the Nuragic period, with a large number of small bronze statues representing, amongst others, warriors, divinities, animals, men and women. Also the later phases of the Phoenician and Punic colonization in Sardinia, between 8th and 3rd centuries BC are well represented. QOpen 09:00 - 19:15. Closed Mon. Admission: €3, conc. €1.50. U18 and over 65 free. Joint saver ticket for the National Archaeological Museum and the National Gallery €5, conc. €2.50. U

24. Although it is not possible to provide an exact date for its founding, the history of the church is intertwined with that of the knightly Order of the Holy Sepulchre, which established their headquarters here. The Order was active in Cagliari as early as the 16th century and its main mission was to provide burial to the poor. The main entrance to the church is on its right-hand side, which gives onto the square. The church has a single nave with side chapels. The altar in Our Lady of Mercy Chapel is actually one of the finest examples of the Baroque style in Cagliari. Thanks to restoration works in the 1980s, the sepulchral crypt is also open to visitors. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. B-3, via Baylle, tel. (+39) 070 66 42 36. The building of this church began in 1577 and the project is by Giorgio Palearo, famous at the time for being, along with his brother Jacopo, one of the most influential military architects in Europe. At the time the two were indeed in Cagliari, working at the new fortifications of the city and they were asked by Philip II of Spain himself to build a church dedicated to Saint Augustine. This was to partly compensate the demolition of the old Augustine convent, which had been necessary to allow the construction of the new city walls. It is one the very few Renaissance style buildings in Sardinia and has a Greekcross plan, barrel vaults and a semi-spherical cupola. Entry to the church is both through the front portal as well as from the sacristy, along largo Carlo Felice. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Admission free. U

Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Chiesa di San Sepolcro) B-3, piazza San Sepolcro, tel. (+39) 070 66 37

National Gallery (Pinacoteca Nazionale) B-2, piazza Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 66 24 96, www.pinacoteca. A contemporary building hosts the National Gallery. In its three floors, parts of the old Spanish and Savoy city walls have been integrated with the rooms where the pictures are on display. Most of the works of the museum were gathered during the 19th century, when the new-born Italian kingdom claimed ownership over Church property. Another important part of the collection is made of the pictures which used to be held at the no longer existing St Francis’s church, many dating as far back as the 14th century. Also on display, works by Sardinian artist Pietro Cavaro, active between 1508 and 1538. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €3, conc. €1.50. U18 and over 65 free. Joint saver ticket for the National Gallery and the National Archaeological Museum €5, conc. €2.50. U Wax Anatomical Models Museum (Museo delle Cere Anatomiche Clemente Susini) B/C-1, piazza

St Augustine’s Church (Chiesa di Sant’Agostino)

Arsenale 1, tel. (+39) 070 675 76 27. It was 1801 when Francesco Boi, professor of human anatomy at the University of Cagliari, was granted the permission to take a sabbatical period in mainland Italy in order to learn about the latest discoveries in surgery. Based on Boi’s dissections, artist

St Eulalia’s Church, archaeological site and Treasure Museum (Chiesa di Sant’Eulalia, area archeologica e Museo del Tesoro) B-3, vico del

Collegio 2, tel. (+39) 070 66 37 24. The Parish church of St Eulalia was built by the Aragonese towards the end of the 14th century and named after the patron saint of Barcelona. The building was severely damaged during WWII

January - March 2013


What to see
bombings. Restoration works have brought back the inside to its Aragonese-Gothic style. During the consolidation of the foundations of the building, archaeologists unveiled the remains of water cisterns dating back to the pre-Roman period, paved roads, a house and what was possibly a temple. The visit to the underground site gives an idea of how the various civilizations used the site for over 2,000 years, with the knowledgeable museum guides bringing the visitors deep down into the roots of the city. For those of you who don’t speak Italian, captions are available in English, Spanish and French. Upstairs is the Treasure Museum, with an interesting collection of church paraments, chalices and statues. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Admission €6, U12 €2.50. U between these two places), the gardens also proudly include ancient Phoenician and Roman cisterns, now fertile breeding zones for water lilies and papyrus. The Herbarium is a mainly scientific structure and on display also are some exinct species. Beautifully quiet and cool, it surely is a great break from heat and crowds. QOpen 08:30 - 13:30. Admission €3. Guided tour €5. Guided tour and admission to Herbarium €6. U6 and over 65 free. tel. (+39) 070 677 64 70. This archaeological site was named after the famous poet and bard, Tigellius, a contemporary of emperor Augustus, well known for his wealthy and extravagant life style, who allegedly resided here in a luxurious villa. In fact, a more accurate study of the area has revealed a series of different houses in what probably used to be a residential area in ancient Karalis, existing as early as the 1st century BC. A visit to the site can give visitors the idea of what a Roman house used to be like, especially with the aid of visual reconstructions available at reception. Visibile today are the impluvia, i.e. the area of the house where rainwater was harvested, the small bedrooms, as well as fragments of frescoes and mosaic floors. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3, conc. €1.90. U

House of Tigellius (Villa di Tigellio) A-3, via Tigellio,

Via Roma and Town Hall (Palazzo Comunale) A/B3/4/C-4. Cagliari’s main street runs along the sea-front, opposite the harbour. After the demolition of the old walls which protected the Marina quarter from raids by enemy fleets, via Roma gradually became an elegant promenade with cafés, shops and a high-end department store, under the arcades. At one end, the street features the contemporary building of the Regional Parliament, while at the other end, opposite the train and bus stations, is the Town Hall. The building was inaugurated in 1907 and severely damaged during the WWII. It is inspired by Catalan-Gothic and Art Nouveau styles. It follows the patterns of the arcades along via Roma and the limestone façade has seven arches and two central 38m high octagonal turrets. On the front gate, a bronze eagle holds the coat of arms of Cagliari. A walk along via Roma is a must if you want to get a general idea of what Cagliari can be as a whole. It’s not unusual to see old men in suits discussing the latest political scandal, teenagers strolling along and holding hands, sailors and dock workers sitting next to regional government functionaries, or even the mayor walking by on his way to his office.

The name Stampace probably originates from the old greeting stai in pace (stay in peace). Stampace is, among the four historical quarters of Cagliari, probably the one which still bears the most testimonies of the ancient civilizations which lived in the area since the Punic and then Roman colonisations. After the Pisan conquest, in the 13th century, Stampace was a village mainly lived by artisans, wrapped inside its no-longer existing walls, of which the only remnant is the Buttress Gate (Porta dello Sperone), at the top of via Azuni. Although Stampace suffered badly during the WWII bombings and has now become largely multi-ethnic, it still preserves its traditional character. A street festival called Cuccurus Cottus (the old nickname for the inhabitants of Stampace, which in Sardinian means ‘hot heads’) is held every August, when the quarter is brought back to life by the thousands of people that gather. Nightlife in Stampace is definitely Cagliari’s liveliest, with its dozens of bars and restaurants, both north and south of the main street, corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Don’t miss it!

Piazza Yenne B-3. It’s the main meeting point for locals, especially during the hot summer nights. People gather here to have a chat before moving up to Castello or to some club out of town; to sit in the terraces of the many cafes and bars, sipping cocktails or Sardinian beer; or simply, to have a walk while slurping a large homemade ice-cream. Piazza Yenne is also an important cross-roads, ideally placed between Marina and Stampace, just below the Elephant Tower, at the edge of Castello. Piazza Yenne is where the state road 131 from Cagliari to Sassari used to start from, and the statue at the center of the roundabout represents King Carlo Felice, who uses his left arm to point the way. Among Sardinians, the road 131 is still nowadays called la Carlo Felice!

Botanical Garden and Herbarium (Orto Botanico e Museo Herbarium) A-2, via Sant’Ignazio da Laconi

11, tel. (+39) 070 675 35 22,, If you’re in need of some shade after having walked about Cagliari’s city centre on a warm sunny morning, or indeed if you’re a lover of plants, in particular special Mediterranean varieties, tropical or succulent species, then it’s worth checking out the University of Cagliari’s Botanical Garden, inaugurated in 1866. It’s about 5 hectares big and features some 600 trees and 1,000 succulent plants. Located at the bottom of the Roman Amphitheatre (although there is no thoroughfare

St Michael’s Church

© Federico Marsano

Cagliari In Your Pocket

What to see
Roman Amphitheatre (Anfiteatro romano) B-1, via Sant’Ignazio da Laconi 19, tel. (+39) 338 277 47 90/ (+39) 070 65 29 56,, www. Probably the most important building of the Roman period still visible in Sardinia. It’s almost entirely carved in the sloping rock, using the natural valley that goes down from Buon Cammino. It was built between the 1st and 2nd century AD and it could originally seat up to 10,000 spectators. The terraces were divided into three different orders, depending on the social level spectators belonged to. The shows included fights between gladiators, or against wild beasts, which used to be kept in cages, at the sides of the arena, and still visible today. Following restoration in the 1980s, in summer the amphitheatre host concerts and other events. The walk along Buon Cammino to get there is magnificent, rewarded as it is by beautiful views and a downhill walk back down to piazza Yenne. Q Closed for repairs. St Anne’s Church (Chiesa di Sant’Anna) B-2, via Azuni, tel. (+39) 070 66 39 63. The foundation stone of the parish church of St Anne, based on architect Giuseppe Viana’s initial project, was laid in 1785, but the building wasn’t inaugurated until 1818 and then finished in the 1930s. It was severely damaged during WWII and didn’t re-open until 1951. The structure of the church is a typical example of Baroque architecture, although the style’s characteristic decorations weren’t restored after the latest reparation works. Its twin steeples are a benchmark in Stampace’s skyline and the church is an important religious and social point of reference for Cagliari’s old town. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Admission free.


via Ospedale 12, tel. (+39) 070 65 86 26. The church was consecrated in 1738, although it’s construction had begun much earlier, and had been possible thanks to a large donation by politician and lawyer Francesco Angelo Dessì, Until only a decade ago, it was not unusual to see its inwho died in 1674. He had been very close to the Society of habitants grilling fresh fish outdoors, especially on Sunday 10:12 Jesus, which used to have a novitiate building on the site of isola_che_vorrei_tracc.indd 1 25/05/12 mornings. the present-day church, which still belongs to the Jesuits. Even though in the recent years, Villanova has lost The building is indeed the typical Jesuit church as regards some of its more socially folkloristic aspects, the architecture and is probably the finest example of Baroque quarter has improved a lot and is living a new birth. The art in Cagliari. It is ideally placed for a quick visit, just few old buildings are being restored and via Sulis, the part minutes’ walk away from piazza Yenne. Guided tours also in of Villanova closer to Saint Remy Rampart, has now English. QOpen 8:00 - 11:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sun 08.30 become a high-end shopping street, while carpenters 12:00, 19:00 - 21:00. Admission free. and small shops are gradually opening up their activiSt Restituta’s Crypt (Cripta di Santa Restituta) ties, making a walk through Villanova a worthwhile experience. B-3, via Sant’Efisio 14, tel. (+39) 070 640 21 15. This hypogeal space was believed to have been the site of Saint Restituta’s martyrdom. The crypt was long forgotten and, City Gallery of Modern Art (Galleria Comunale during the 17th century excavations, the ancient relics d’Arte Moderna) B-2, largo Giuseppe Dessì, tel. (+39) were found, leading to a partial restoration of the site and 070 677 75 98, In the its embellishment with altars and statues. During the WWII beautiful setting of the Public Gardens (Giardini pubblici), the bombardments, the relics were transferred to neighbouring City Gallery of Modern Art is hosted in a fine Neo-Classical St Anne’s church, while the crypt was used as an air-raid building. The museum displays its works on two floors and shelter. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. holds, as a permanent exhibition, the Ingrao Collection, with 19th and 20th century paintings and sculptures by Italian artists such as Umberto Boccioni, to whom an entire room is dedicated, Giorgio Morandi and Mino Maccari, among many others. On the ground floor is the Sardinian Collection (ColVillanova (in Sardinian Bidda Noa, which means ‘New lezione Sarda), displaying a selection of works by Sardinian Town’) is probably the most recent of the four historical artists. The museum has a well-stocked shop, with a fairly quarters in Cagliari, although 13th century documents large selection of books and souvenirs. Guided tours in English prove its existence. Traditionally, its main activity was or French to be booked in advance. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. agriculture. For some centuries, it had walls built around it, which used to follow what is now one of Cagliari’s main Closed Tue. Admission €6, conc. €2.60. U shopping streets, via Garibaldi, and they are no longer visible. The old part of the quarter gives the visitor the impression of being in a small village. It mainly lives along via San Giovanni, the churches of St James and St Dominic, and the many narrow streets and alleyways.

St Michael’s Church (Chiesa di San Michele) B-3,


January - March 2013


What to see Exmà is a multi-functional space which regularly hosts temporary exhibitions, screening of movies, theatre and live music shows. It is located inside the closed walls of the old city slaughterhouse, which was renovated in 1993, becoming at the time the most modern and lively cultural venue in Cagliari. Right beside a very busy road, Exmà is a quiet oasis of peace, with a hamlet-like feeling to it. It is definitely worth paying a visit after seeing St Saturnin’s Basilica, which is only a few minutes’ walk away. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Special exhibitions may charge an admission fee. U

Exmà C-3, via San Lucifero 71, tel. (+39) 070 66 63 99,

Cave of the Viper (Grotta della Vipera) F-1, viale Sant’Avendrace 87, tel. (+39) 070 677 64 00. The Cave of the Viper is a burial monument which was erected between the 1st and 2nd century AD. Lucius Cassius Philippus, a Roman who had been exiled to Sardinia, dedicated it to his wife Atilia Pomptilla, who was buried there. The legend tells us that during a bad illness that Lucius had been suffering from, his wife prayed so much that she ended up dying in his place. Though fairly small, the monument is important for the engraved poems in Latin and Ancient Greek at the sides of the grotto. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. U Lazaret (Lazzaretto) G-4, via dei Navigatori, tel. (+39)
070 383 80 85,, This building used to be the lazaret of the city and it dates back to the 16th century. It was built in what was then a completely isolated area, far from the city and was intended to keep people and goods coming from the sea, which needed to be quarantined. This was a common practice of the time and the idea was to prevent the spreading of epidemics carried by ships and sailors. The structure is currently used for concerts, theatre, temporary exhibitions and festivals of different kinds. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5, conc. €3. U

St James’s Church (Chiesa di San Giacomo) C-3,

piazza San Giacomo 3, tel. (+39) 070 66 28 71. This is one of the oldest parish churches in Cagliari and documents date it back as early as the 14th century. It was built in the typical Catalan-Gothic style of the time. It underwent restoration works in the 18th and then the 19th century, which added the Neo-Classical façade, based on a project by architect Gaetano Cima. The main structure has preserved many Gothic elements, e.g. the steeple, the apse behind the main altar and four side chapels. It’s worth to walk in to have a look, while walking around the busy shopping streets of Villanova. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Admission free.

St Saturnin’s Basilica (Basilica di San Saturnino) D-3,

piazza San Cosimo, tel. (+39) 070 65 98 69. The basilica is probably the most an cien t example of Roman esqu e architecture in Cagliari. A 6th century document mentions the site for the first time. It had © Arcidiocesi di Cagliari probably already been built in the place where young Saturnin had been martyred in 304AD. The church and the adjacent monastery were gradually abandoned during the Middle Ages, then restored during the Spanish domination, before part of its limestone bricks were used for restoration works in the Cathedral. The surrounding necropolis has given light to many Roman and Byzantine burials. Only the central part of what used to be the Greek cross plan is visible. Q Closed until further notice.

La Palma, tel. (+39) 070 37 91 92 01,, Molentargius Saline Park includes the ancient salt mines (saline), whose use is certified by documents dating back to the Roman period, and the Molentargius pond itself, with its protected wildlife. Home to flamingoes and other species of residential and migratory birds, the park is ideally placed between Monte Urpinu hill and Poetto beach, giving visitors the possibility to trek, run or cycle. There are also spots for bird watching. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Visitor Centre open 09:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00 Admission free. Bicycle rental €3/ hour, €9 daily, U11 €1.50/hour, €4.50 daily. Guided tours by boat €7, over 65 €5, U11 €3, U3 free (book in advance). T

Molentargius Saline Park (Parco Naturale Regionale Molentargius Saline) G-3, Edificio Sali Scelti, via

Poetto beach H-2/3. Poetto beach is Cagliari’s pride and
the main coastal resort for its citizens. It stretches for around 8km and part of it falls under the municipal territory of neighbouring Quartu Sant’Elena. During the summer months it’s busy almost 24/7. In day time, thousands of people all ages go there to sunbathe and swim. At night, the many different types of bars cater for all tastes. There are also restaurants, pizzerias, discos, deck-chair and pedal-boat rentals, snack parlours, a pharmacy and a well-stocked supermarket. In winter it’s more of an up-market residential, suburban area, while still remaining a great place for long walks along the shore. It’s also a prime location for joggers and cyclists who puff and sweat up and down the road. Well worth the 20-minute bus ride from the city centre.

Other sights
Basilica of Our Lady of Bonaria (Basilica di Nostra Signora di Bonaria) D-3, piazza Bonaria, tel. (+39)
070 30 17 47, The basilica of Bonaria, the sanctuary and the convent are built on the hill south-east of the city centre and about a 15/20 minute walk from via Roma. The initial church, which maintains its original Gothic architecture, was built after 1323, on the site where the Aragonese decided to set up their camp and lay siege to the city. It was then donated to the Order of Our Lady of Mercy, who then built a convent. In 1370, during a terrible storm in the gulf of Cagliari, a ship wrecked and part of its load, a large case containing a very fine statue of Our Lady, was found on the shore in front of the church. Both the statue and the case are on public display. The building of the adjacent basilica started in the 18th century and it was then resumed, but not finished until 1926. The complex is surrounded by a small but pleasant park, with nice views over the port. QOpen 06:30 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 16:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

Sirai, tel. (+39) 070 50 06 56, The castle is in the north-western outskirts of the city and the hill where it was built is now a pleasant park for walks and relaxing views of Cagliari’s skyline, even though it’s surrounded by blocks of flats. It dates back to the 14th century and it was needed by the Aragonese conquerors to consolidate their power and to prevent attempts of invasion from the north. Despite the many transformations made to it over the centuries, the castle has preserved its three mighty towers and a deep moat around it. St Michael Castle is used as a venue for temporary exhibitions and other events. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5, conc. €4. U

St Michael Castle (Castello di San Michele) F-1, via

Cagliari In Your Pocket

GettinG around
Air Berlin Tel. 199 40 07 37, DüsRome-Fiumicino.


Alitalia Tel. 89 20 10, Milan-Linate, British Airways Tel. 199 71 22 66, EasyJet Tel. 899 23 45 89, Basel,

seldorf, Munich, Zurich.

Berlin-Schönefeld, Geneva, London-Stansted, Milan-Malpensa, Paris-Orly. Germanwings Tel. 199 25 70 13, www.germanwings. com. Cologne, Stuttgart. Meridiana Fly Tel. 89 29 28, Bologna, Florence, Milan-Linate, Naples, Olbia, Palermo, RomeFiumicino, Turin, Verona. Ryanair Tel. 89 55 00 00 20, Bari, Barcelona, Beauvais, Bergamo, Charleroi, Cuneo, FrankfurtHahn, Genoa, Girona, Ibiza, Karlsruhe, Kaunas, Krakow, Madrid, Marseille, Nuremberg, Parma, Pescara, Perugia, Pisa, RomeCiampino, Seville, Trapani, Trieste, Valencia, Venice, Weeze. SmartWings Tel. (+420) 255 70 08 27, Prague. Volotea Tel. 199 208 717, Ancona, Brindisi, Venice.

Bicycle rental
Bicincittà B-3/4, Town Hall (Palazzo Comunale), piazza
De Gasperi 2, 6th floor, tel. (+39) 070 677 85 85/800 45 63 00, A card is needed to rent a bicycle and can be purchased at the Town Hall (Palazzo Comunale). You must be 18 or older and have an ID card or passport. So far there are four locations from where the bicycle can be picked up or dropped off (cicloposteggio), in via Sonnino, piazza della Repubblica, piazza Giovanni XXIII and at Marina Piccola. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Card €30, including €25€ annual fee plus €5 spending charge.

Bus tours The open top bus tour takes approximately one hour and will take you around to see the the most remarkable sights there are to visit in Cagliari. You’ll get the chance to see the old city walls and towers driving around Castello, rather than through it. You’ll see the Roman Amphitheatre and the beautiful views of the gulf of the Angels. The tour even takes you as far as Poetto beach and if you’re lucky you’ll have the possibility to see flamingoes. Q Dept. 09:30 - 19:30. €10, 5-12 €5, U5 free.

City Tour Cagliari B-3, piazza Yenne, tel. 800 42 28 50,

Public transportation network CTM provides a somewhat efficient and fast service around the city and the suburbs. Buses run roughly from 04:00 to 00:50. Tickets can be bought from CTM Points, newspaper stands and tobacconists, marked with a big black and white T outside the shop. A 90-minute ticket is €1.20 when purchased in advance or €1.70 on the bus. Have exact change ready when you buy the ticket on the bus. Other options include a 1-day ticket (€3), a weekly ticket (€12) and a monthly ticket (€30, over 65 €14), all valid on Metrocagliari too. Tickets must be clipped once on board.

CTM Point viale Trieste F-2, viale Trieste 151, tel.

800 07 88 70/(+39) 070 209 12 10, www.ctmcagliari. it. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:45. Closed Sun.

January - March 2013


GettinG around
72 02 18, fax (+39) 070 72 07 67,, Buses to a number of destinations southwest of Cagliari. Tickets are sold on board buses. Tour Baire also offers coach, minibus and chauffeur driven cars hire, and provides transfer pick ups at Cagliari-Elmas Airport. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

CTM Point piazza Matteotti B-4, piazza Matteotti. QOpen 07:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun. Tour Baire via Cagliari 88, Capoterra, tel. (+39) 070

Internet & Wi-Fi
In the era of laptops and smartphones, what you really need are hotspots. There is free outdoor Wi-Fi in via Roma, in largo Carlo Felice and at Marina Piccola. Start your laptop/smartphone, connect and follow the instructions. Many bars and cafés have free Wi-Fi as well.

Car parking
By far the easiest and most pleasant way to visit the city centre is on foot. If you do decide to use your car, white lines (very few of them left) indicate free parking. If the lines are blue look for a parking meter (parchimetro) and pay the price. Tickets should be displayed on your car windscreen. The cost depends on the parking zone you are in. Expect to pay €1/hr in the city centre. Be sure to have plenty of coins to hand as parking meters neither give change nor accept credit cards. Parking is free from 13:00 to 16:00, from 20:00 to 09:00, on Sundays and public holidays. Disabled parking spaces are available at Metropark Cagliari and Regina Elena Parking Garage.

13:00, 16:30 - 20:30.

Sixt E-1, Cagliari-Elmas Airport, tel./fax (+39) 070 21 20 45, QOpen 08:45 - 21:45, Sun 09:00 -

Guided tours
L’Isola che Vorrei Tel. (+39) 328 276 11 64/(+39) 347 367 45 98,, A young and dynamic group of professionals organise guided tours of Cagliari and surrounding areas. You’ll set off on foot or on a small coach with one of the friendly tour guides, ready to go and explore the historical city centre or the beach or some of Cagliari’s underground sites. In fact, you can have your tailor-made tour and can venture out as far as Villasimius, Nora or Barumini, just to name a few. Tours in English, German, French and Spanish. Q Book in advance. Prices upon request.

Metropark Cagliari B-4, piazza Matteotti, tel. 800 65 00 06, Located adjacent to the bus and railway stations, only a five minute walk from piazza Yenne, the Metropark has 652 spaces including 13 bays for disabled drivers. QOpen 24/7. Hourly rate €1, daily rate €10, monthly rate €80. AU Regina Elena Parking Garage B-2, viale Regina Elena, tel. (+39) 070 684 89 60/(+39) 348 211 03 88,, Situated a few minutes walk from the Saint Remy Rampart, the Regina Elena Parking Garage boasts 628 spaces and has a lift that can take you straight up the hill to Castello. QOpen 24/7. Hourly rate €1.20, daily rate €5. AU

Metrocagliari C/D-2, piazza della Repubblica, MRepubblica, tel. (+39) 070 57 93 01,, servizi_metroca.html. At the moment Metrocagliari only operates one surface line, from piazza della Repubblica to neighbouring Monserrato, part of outer Cagliari. Trains run from 06:00 to 22:40. Tickets must be stamped once inside the train. Q Ticket office open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:30 - 14:00. 90-minute ticket €1.20, carnet of 12 90-minute tickets €12. U

Car rental
All you need to rent a car is a credit card, an ID card or passport and valid driving licence. Some companies do require a minimum age and minimum driving experience. If renting a car with children you must also rent the appropriate seat or cushion for their age and weight.

Motorbike and Scooter rental
Car.Bus.Tec B-4, via Sassari 1/B, tel./fax (+39) 070 49 83 99, tel. (+39) 347 542 46 07,, If you are looking for excitement and an all Italian experience then you might be interested in renting out a scooter or motorbike. All you need is a credit card, an ID card or passport and a valid driving licence. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 19:00. Scooter rental €17-€65 per day. Motorbike rental €35-€140 per day.

pen 09:00 - 13:00, 15:30-19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Europcar (airport) E-1, Cagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 24 01 26, fax (+39) 070 212 96 71, www. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Europcar (city) F-1, viale Monastir km 3.550, tel. (+39) 070 208 41 15, fax (+39) 070 208 19 57. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Hertz (airport) E-1, Cagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 24 00 37, fax (+39) 070 24 08 55, QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Hertz (city) B-4, piazza Matteotti 8, tel. (+39) 070 65 10 78, fax (+39) 070 66 34 57.QOpen 08:30 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30. Maggiore (airport) E-1, Cagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 24 08 18, fax (+39) 070 212 89 76, cagliari.cg1@, QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. Maggiore (city) F-1, viale Monastir 116, tel. (+39) 070 27 36 92, fax (+39) 070 208 05 36, cagliari.cg2@ QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Avis (airport) E-1, Cagliari-Elmas Airport, tel. (+39) 070 24 00 31, QOpen 07:30 - 22:30. Avis (city) C-4, via Roma 16, tel. (+39) 070 67 49 03. QO-

Cagliari’s taxis are safe and generally reliable. The starting rate is €3 (€5 on Sundays and public holidays, €5.50 between 22:00 and 06:00) with a per kilometre rate of €0.90, which goes up to €1.30 at night time or when driving out of town. Few taxi drivers speak English. Cheating is rare. Just make sure that the meter is running before you set off.

Radio Taxi 4 Mori Tel. (+39) 070 40 01 01,, Q Operating 24/7 Radio Taxi Rossoblù Tel. (+39) 070 66 55, fax (+39) 070 65 81 30,, Q Operating 24/7

Cagliari In Your Pocket



Via Sardegna 22, Cagliari Tel. (+39) 070 66 93 80 - 349 059 89 88
Shopping in Cagliari is not just running around a shopping centre but actually strolling down the city’s narrow, cobbled streets while enjoying the marvelous experience of shopping. Italy is famous for its high-end fashion and Cagliari is no exception. You can find anything from your typical street bargain to high-end fashions and couture. Most of the shopping areas are concentrated around the city centre. Some of the most famous streets for shopping around Cagliari are via Alghero and the up and coming outdoor shopping mall located in Villanova. Via Sulis offers visitors from high-end fashion boutiques to vintage and jewellery stores. Largo Carlo Felice and via Roma are also lined up with a vast variety of shops from bookshops, antiques to the well renown la Rinascente department store. Via Manno and via Garibaldi are great for bargain finds and small boutique browsing. Both are pedestrian streets with plenty of shops filled with stores selling clothing, accessories and handicrafts. Keep in mind that shops are closed on Sundays and the majority close also during lunchtime. Lunchtime closing hours vary from shop to shop but most close from 13:00/13:30 to 16:30/17:00.

Mercato San Benedetto C-1, via Cocco Ortu, tel.
(+39) 070 40 33 96, If you are looking to buy and taste locally grown fresh produce then you are in the right place. Mercato San Benedetto is one of the biggest fresh produce markets in Europe. Opened in 1957, it is a two level structure of about 4,000 square meters each. The fish-seafood department is located on the ground floor (a must see) while the fresh produce sections such as, meat, cheese, fresh baked bread, locally grown organic fruit and vegetables are located on the upper floor. There are about 240 stalls available to visit and buy products from. If this is not part of your travel guide itinerary then you must include it. It is not your typical market. The vendors are extremely friendly and welcoming while offering their costumers a once in a lifetime experience. Savour a couple of hours mingling with the locals and tourists while visiting this lively market. QOpen 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Department Stores
la Rinascente B-3, via Roma 143, tel. (+39) 070 65 32 71, For those who love shopping but hate going from shop to shop, la Rinascente is a one stop shop. A high-end department store that has something for everyone. Whether you are looking for that perfect evening dress or an every day to day bag or maybe a new pair of sunglasses or why not, a new watch, this department store has it all. Men’s, women’s, children’s luxury collections, beauty, accessories, houseware items and lingerie. Impossible to miss. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Shopping centres
Le Vele G-1, via delle Serre, Quartucciu, tel. (+39) 070 88 85 98,, It is the biggest shopping centre (centro commerciale in Italian) in the Cagliari metropolitan area, located 15 minutes from the city centre. You can find anything from home furnishing shops, clothes, accessories, shoes, electronics and the Carrefour superstore but also boasts restaurants, pizzerias, fast food, bars, multiplex cinema and a bowling arena. There is plenty of free parking and ATMs are also available on site. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PTULKS

January - March 2013


Delizie di Sardegna B-3, via Sardegna 22, tel.
(+39) 070 66 93 80/(+39) 349 059 89 88, info@, This shop offers a truly large selection of very good quality only-Sardinian products. Be tempted by traditional cakes, honey and jams, as well as other organic products of the island, such as olive oil, artichokes in oil, myrtle wine and fil’e ferru (a type of local grappa), just to name a few. Also a good range of typical Sardinian linen and ceramics for sale. You can also order a cabinet or a chest, and the shop manager will arrange the shipping to your home address. Tailor-made Sardinian costumes can be created, though allow up to a few weeks for final delivery. If you’re looking for a gift to bring back home, there’s also a large variety of souvenirs to choose from. Q Open 09:30 - 13:30, 15:30 - 20:30.

La Bottega delle Meraviglie B-2, via Lamarmora
82, tel. (+39) 070 65 30 20/(+39) 340 835 29 60, A mix of vintage and new, La Bottega delle Meraviglie offers anything from collectible pieces, to jewellery, French and Italian unique designs, bags and last but not least collectible toys and handicrafts. It is a shop where the past meets the present and that will simply take you on a journey from the moment you walk in. Wonderfully decorated, with hundreds of items to choose from, you may just end up spending an entire morning or afternoon browsing. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Mon 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Home & Design
Intrecci C-3, viale Regina Margherita 63, tel. (+39) 070
332 87 08, This is a truly unique shop, ideally located along the hill that brings the visitor from the port up towards the Saint Remy Rampart. The very name of it is a clear reference to the act of weaving, at the core of traditional Sardinian craftsmanship. It’s beautifully renovated and full of light, inside it’s organised more like an art gallery than a simple shop. Its main philosophy is to display and sell only locally produced handicraft. Elements and material of traditional Sardinian costumes are used to recreate modern clothes for both men and women. There are hand-made carpets, lace and linen with typical decorations, as well as pottery and ceramics which resemble works of art. There’s traditional Sardinian jewellery, such as the famous filigree. There are also lamps and boxes and so much more to see. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun.

Loredana Mandas B-3, via Sicilia 31, tel. (+39) 070 66 76 48,, In Loredana Mandas’s laboratory, one of the few filigree jewellery artisans in southern Sardinia, you can feel the thrill of assisting her while she is creating entirely by hand one of the typical island jewels. In her shop window are shown from traditional ethnic jewellery to geometric motifs, pendants, earrings and rings embellished with precious and semiprecious stones. Loredana Mandas’s shop is a must see for those who appreciate high quality handmade jewellery and want the guarantee of having a traditional piece of jewellery of a Sardinian craftswoman. If no one is in the shop ring the bell on the right, as Loredana lives just above the shop, she will come down and assist you. QOpen 09:30 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Cagliari In Your Pocket



January - March 2013


LifestyLe directory
52, tel. (+39) 070 66 76 00,, QOpen 08:30 12:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Dr. Alessandra Pinna C-1, via Cavalcanti 30, tel. (+39) 340 916 89 86, studiodentistico.pinna@gmail. com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Studio Dentistico Associato Caruso B-3, corso Vittorio Emanuele II 16, tel. (+39) 070 68 22 22, QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Studio Odontoiatrico Associato Falconi A-3, via Mameli 222, tel. (+39) 070 27 21 20, studiofalconi@, QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Tue 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Centro Odontoiatrico Sardo Baire A-3, via Roma

Happy Baby Asilo Nido in Inglese C-1, via Rossini 13, tel. (+39) 328 859 37 83. English language kindergarten. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

21. You must be registered to borrow books. There's also a reading room for old, even ancient, books which cannot be taken out. QOpen 08:15 - 19:15, Sat 08:15 - 13:00. Closed Sun. R MEM Mediateca del Mediterraneo A-3, via Mameli 164, tel. (+39) 070 677 38 65, fax (+39) 070 677 38 66, It's the brand new civic multi-media library located in what used to be a fresh-food market. Apart from a large selection of books, DVDs and CDs, the MEM hosts a number of cultural activities. Facilities include a charming cafeteria and a tourist information centre. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. URW

Cagliari University Library (Biblioteca Universitaria) B-3, via Università 32, tel. (+39) 070 66 10

Dry cleaners
Desogus C-2, via Satta 54, tel. (+39) 070 66 35 03. QOpen 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Lavasecco Pony C-3, via del Collegio 11, tel. (+39) 070 65 86 28. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Lavasecco San Giorgio C-3, via Iglesias 33, tel. (+39) 070 66 33 27. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:15 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Closed Sun. Closed Sun.

Ottica Cosentino C-3, via Sonnino 34/B, tel. (+39) 070 65 91 11,, QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Ottica Gasperini C-2, piazza Garibaldi 42, tel. (+39) 070 65 97 10. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00, Mon 16:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Ottico Peiretti B-3/4, via Roma 107, tel. (+39) 070 66 31 61, QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00, Mon 16:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Hairdressers & Beauty Salons
Cut&Go! Unisex D-2, via Cugia 10, tel. (+39) 070 311 40 30,, English, German and Russian spoken. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Il Tocco degli Angeli D-1, via Bellini 51-53, tel. (+39) 070 49 83 09/(+39) 339 361 26 30, QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Linea Estetica SEM D-3/4, via Donizetti 78, tel. (+39) 070 49 31 25,, www. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 14:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Ricciolo B-3, via Savoia 8, tel. (+39) 070 640 24 99. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Photo service
Photo Service D-2, via Tuveri 14/B, MRepubblica, tel. (+39) 070 40 33 09. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00,
Mon 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Shoe repairs
Calzoleria di Fabrizio Atzeni D-2, via Tuveri 62, tel. (+39) 348 352 07 17. QOpen 07:30 - 13:00, 15:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Davide Lecca D-1, via Cimarosa 124, MGennari, tel. (+39) 347 348 30 57. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Key cuts
Capra B-3, via Sassari 77/A, tel. (+39) 070 65 38 59. Q Open 08:30 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:30. Closed
Sat, Sun.

Sports & Fitness Clubs
Athlon Club D-2, via Degioannis 5, tel. (+39) 070 64 40 41, QOpen 07:00 - 22:30, Sat Formakalaris D-3, via Caboni 7, tel. (+39) 070 30 78 32. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Fratelli Binelli A-3, via Pola 14, tel. (+39) 070 65 83 65, QOpen 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00
- 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

66 43 46,, www.babyingiardino. it. QOpen 08:00 - 17:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Chatterbox A-4, viale La Plaia 11, tel. (+39) 070 684 85 51/(+39) 345 387 86 47,, Kindergarden and primary school. All classes held in English. Fully qualified English-speaking staff. QOpen 07:45 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Swimming Pools
Società Sportiva Dilettantistica Acqua Sport G-3, viale Diaz 227, tel. (+39) 070 30 70 04, QOpen 07:00 - 16:00, 18:15 - 20:30, Tue, Thu 12:15 - 16:00, 18:15 - 20:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Baby in Giardino C-3, via Lanusei 27, tel. (+39) 070

Tennis Courts
49 26 47/(+39) 345 437 36 20, QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.

Tennis Club Cagliari D-1, via Gemelli 2, tel. (+39) 070

Cagliari In Your Pocket

Street index
Abba, via C-2 Alagon, via C-2 Alfieri, via C-1 Alghero, via C-2 Amat, via D-2 Amendola, piazza C-3/4 Anfiteatro, via B-2 Angioy, via B-3 Angius, via D-1 Annunziata, piazza A-3 Ariosto, via C-1 Arquer, via C-3 Arsenale, piazza B-2 Asproni, via A-3 Azuni, via B-3 Bacaredda, via B/C-1/2 Bainsizza, via A-2 Barcellona, via B-3/4 Barone Rossi, via C/D-3 Basilicata, via A-1 Baylle, via B-3/4 Bellini, via C-1 Belvedere, via B-2 Boito, via C/D-1 Bonaria, piazza D-3/4 Bonaria, viale C-3/4/D-3/4 Bosa, via B/C-2 Bottego, via D-3/4 Buon Cammino, viale A/B-2 Buragna, via B-3 Caboni, via D-2/3 Cammino Nuovo, via B-2/3 Campidano, via C-4 Canelles, via B-2/3/C-3 Canepa, via D-1 Cao di San Marco, via B/C-1 Caprera, via A-3 Carboni Boi, via D-2 Carbonia, via C-3 Carducci, via C-1/2 Carlo Alberto, piazza B-2/3 Carlo Felice, largo B-3 Carloforte, via A-3 Carrara, via D-2 Carso, via A-2 Catalani, via C/D-1 Cavour, via B/C-3 Cherubini, via C/D-2 Cima, via B-3 Cimarosa, via C-2/D-1/2 Cimitero, piazza D-3 Cimitero, viale D-3 Cino da Pistoia, via C-1 Cocco Ortu, via C-1 Collegio, via C-3 Collegio, vico B/C-3 Colombo, viale C/D-4 Concezione, via B-3/4/C-3/4 Corelli, via C-1 Corte d'Appello, via B-2/3 Costa, via B/C-1 Costituzione, piazza C-3 Crispi, via B-3 Cugia, via D-2 Dalmazia, via A-1 Dante, via C-1/2/D-2/3 d'Armi, piazza A-1 De Gasperi, piazza C-3 De Gioannis, via D-2/3 De Magistris, via A-3 Deffenu, piazza C-4 dei Pisani, via C-3 del Carmine, piazza B-3 Deledda, via C-2/3/D-2 Dessì, largo B-2 Dettori, piazza B-3 Dettori, via B-3 Don Bosco, via A-2 Donizetti, via C-1/2/D-1 Duomo, via B-3 Einaudi, via C-2 Eleonora d'Arborea, via C-3 Fadda, via D-2 Fais, via C/D-2 Fara, via B-2/3 Farina, via C-2 Fiume, via B-2 Foscolo, via C-1 Fossario, via B/C-3 Fra' Nicola da Gesturi, via A/B-2 G. Benedetta, via B-1 Gallura, via C-3 Garavetti, via D-1/2 Garibaldi, piazza C-2 Garibaldi, via C-2/3 Gemelli, via D-2 Gennari, largo D-1 Genovesi, via B-2/3 Gianturco, via D-2/3 Giardini Pubblici, via A-1/2/B-1 Giardini, via B-1/2 Goceano, via C/D-3 Gramsci, piazza C-3 Ichnusa, piazza C-3 Iglesias, via C-3 Indipendenza, piazza B-2 Irpinia, piazza B-1 Istria, via A-1 Kennedy, piazza B-1 La Maddalena, via B-3 La Plaia, viale A/B-4 La Vega, via B-1 Lai, via C-1 Lamarmora, via B-2/3 Lanusei, via C-3 Lazio, via A-1 Lepanto, via C-3/4 Liguria, via A/B-1 Logudoro, via C/D-3 Lombardia, via A-1 Macomer, via C-2 Malta, via A/B-3 Mameli, via A/B-3 Manno, via B-3 Manzoni, via C-1/2 Marche, via B-1 Marghinotti, piazza C-3 Marini, via D-2 Martiri, piazza B/C-3 Martiri, via B-2 Matteotti, piazza B-4 Mazzini, via B/C-3 Mercato Vecchio, via B-3 Merello I, vico A-2 Merello, viale A-1/2/3 Michelangelo, piazza C-1 Mille, via B-3/4 Molise, via A-1 Monti, via C-1/2 Napoli, via B-3/4 Negri, via C/D-2 Nicolodi, via A-1/2 Nuoro, via C/D-3 Oristano, via C-3 Oslavia, via A-2 Ospedale, via B-2/3 Ozieri, via B/C-2 Pacinotti, via C-1 Paganini, via D-1 Pais, via B/C-1 Palazzo, piazza B-2 Palomba, via D-2 Paoli, via C-1/2 Pascoli, via C-1 Perdixedda, via A-4 Pergolesi, via C/D-1 Pessina, via D-2 Petrarca, via C-1 Piccioni, via C-3 Piemonte, via A/B-1 Pierluigi da Palestrina, via C/D-1 Pitzolo, via C-2 Pola, via A-3 Ponchielli, via D-1 Porcell, via B-2 Porcile, via C-3/4 Porto Scalas, via B-3 Principe Amedeo, via B/C-3 Puccini, via C-1/2/D-1/2 Pula, via A-4 Regina Elena, viale B-2/3/C-2/3 Regina Margherita, piazza C-3 Regina Margherita, viale C-3/4 Repubblica, piazza C/D-2 Riva di Ponente, via A/B-4 Roma, via A/B-3/4/C-4 Rossini, via C-1/2 Salaris, via B/C-1 Salento, piazza B-1 San Benedetto, piazza C-1 San Benedetto, via C-1 San Cosimo, piazza C/D-3 San Domenico, piazza C-2 San Domenico, via C-2 San Giacomo, piazza C-3 San Giacomo, via B/C-2 San Giorgio, via B-2 San Giovanni, via B-1/2/C-2/3 San Lucifero, via C/D-3 San Mauro, via B-1/2 San Paolo, via A-4 San Rocco, piazza B/C-1 San Rocco, via B-1 San Saturnino, via B-1/2 San Vetrano, via B-1 San Vincenzo, viale A/B-1/2 Sanjust, via D-1 Sanna Randaccio, via D-1/2 Santa Croce, via B-2/3 Santa Margherita, via B-2/3 Santa Restituta, via B-2/3 Sant'Agostino, via B-4 Sant'Alenikedda, via B/C-1 Sant'Efisio, via B-2/3 Sant'Eulalia, via B-3 Sant'Eusebio, via C-2/3/D-3 Sant'Ignazio, via A-2/3/B-3 Sardegna, via B-3 Sassari, via B-3/4 Satta, via C-2 Savoia, via B-3 Scano, via D-1/2 Sicilia, via B-3 Siotto Pintor, via B-2/3 Sonnino, via C-2/3/4 Spano, via B-3 Stazione Vecchia, via C-3/4 Stretta, via B-2/3 Sulis, via C-3 Tasso, via C-1 Tempio, via C-2 Tigellio, via A-3 Tiziano, via C-1 Todde, via C-1 Tola, via C-2 Torino, via C-3 Toscana, via A/B-1 Trentino, via A-1 Trento, via A-3 Trieste, viale A/B-3 Tristani, piazza B-1 Tristani, via B-1 Tuveri, via D-1/2 Umbria, via A-1 Università, via B-3 Verdi, via C/D-1 Vittorio Emanuele II, corso A/B-3 Vittorio Veneto, via A-2 XX Settembre, via C-3 XXIV Maggio, via C-2 Yenne, piazza B-3


January - March 2013

© CTM S.p.A.


4 Mori 13 A&R Bundes Jack 13 Air Berlin 25 Alitalia 25 Almea 13 Antica Hostaria 15 Art Rooms 14 Athlon Club 30 Avis (airport) 26 Avis (city) 26 Baby in Giardino 30 Bar Centrale 17 Basilica of the Holy Cross (Basilica di Santa Croce) 19 Basilica of Our Lady of Bonaria (Basilica di Nostra Signora di Bonaria) 24 Basilio 16 Bicincittà 25 Birroteca al Merlo Parlante 18 Botanical Garden and Herbarium (Orto Botanico e Museo Herbarium) 22 British Airways 25 Bus Station (Stazione ARST) 7 Caesar’s 12 Cagliari-Elmas Airport 7 Cagliari University Library (Biblioteca Universitaria) 30 Calamosca 13 Calzoleria di Fabrizio Atzeni 30 Capra 30 Car.Bus.Tec 26 Cathedral Museum (Museo del Duomo) 19 Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption (Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta) 19 Cave of the Viper (Grotta della Vipera) 24 Centro Odontoiatrico Sardo Baire 30 Chatterbox 30 Choco & Tea 17 Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Chiesa di San Sepolcro) 21 City Gallery of Modern Art (Galleria Comunale d'Arte Moderna) 23 City Tour Cagliari 25 Costa Crociere 7 Covoartcafe 18 Crackers 15 Cremeria Ritz 17 CTM Point piazza Matteotti 25 CTM Point viale Trieste 25 Cut&Go! Unisex 30 Da Cesare 15 Davide Lecca Delizie di Sardegna Desogus Dr. Alessandra Pinna Dr Ampex Due Colonne EasyJet Elephant Tower (Torre dell'Elefante) Europcar (airport) Europcar (city) Exmà Exmà Café Federico Nansen Formakalaris Fratelli Binelli Germanwings Happy Baby Asilo Nido in Inglese Hertz (airport) Hertz (city) Holiday Inn Cagliari House of Tigellius (Villa di Tigellio) Iberocruceros Idea Hotel Cagliari Santa Maria Il Birrificio di Cagliari Il Cagliarese Il Giardino Segreto Il Tocco degli Angeli Indoor Promenade (Passeggiata Coperta) Infopoint Aeroporto Elmas Infopoint Molo Sanità Infopoint Piazza Costituzione Intrecci Italia Koch Kuvee La Bottega delle Meraviglie La Ghirlanda La Peonia la Rinascente La Terra di Mezzo La Terrazza Lavasecco Pony Lavasecco San Giorgio Lazaret (Lazzaretto) Le Vele Linea Estetica SEM Linea Notturna L'Isola che Vorrei L'Isola del Gelato Livingstone Loredana Mandas Luigi Pomata 30 28 30 30 16 13 25 19 26 26 24 17 16 30 30 25 30 26 26 12 22 7 13 18 14 14 30 20 9 9 9 28 13 16 16 28 14 14 27 16 13 30 30 24 27 30 18 26 17 14 28 16 Maggiore (airport) 26 Maggiore (city) 26 Marina Cagliari 14 Mediterraneo 12 MEM Mediateca del Mediterraneo 30 Mercato di Is Bingias 6 Mercato di Santa Chiara 6 Mercato di via Quirra 6 Mercato San Benedetto 6, 27 Mercato San Sant’Elia 6 Meridiana Fly 25 Metrocagliari 26 Metropark Cagliari 26 Miramare 12 Molentargius Saline Park (Parco Naturale Regionale Molentargius Saline) 24 Museum of Siamese Art (Museo d'Arte Siamese Stefano Cardu) 21 National Archaeological Museum (Museo Archeologico Nazionale) 21 National Gallery (Pinacoteca Nazionale) 21 Old Town Hall (Antico Palazzo di Città) 20 Opera House (Teatro Lirico di Cagliari) 11 Ospedale Brotzu 8 Ospedale Civile San Giovanni di Dio 8 Ospedale Marino 8 Ottica Cosentino 30 Ottica Gasperini 30 Ottico Peiretti 30 Panorama 12 Photo Service 30 Piazza Yenne 22 Poetto beach 24 Portus Karalis 8 Post Office (Poste) 9 Pullmantur 7 Radio Taxi 4 Mori 26 Radio Taxi Rossoblù 26 Rainbow@Cafè Vigna Clara 18 Regina Elena Parking Garage 26 Regina Margherita 12 Residenza Kastrum 14 Residence Ulivi e Palme 14 RetroBurger 15 Ricciolo 30 Ritual 18 Roman Amphitheatre (Anfiteatro romano) 23 Royal Palace (Palazzo Regio) 20 Ryanair 25 Saint Remy Rampart (Bastione Saint Remy) 20 Sa Piola 16 Sardegna 13 Seabourn Cruise Line 7 Silversea Cruises 7 Sixt 26 SmartWings 25 Società Sportiva Dilettantistica Acqua Sport 30 St Anne's Church (Chiesa di Sant'Anna) 23 St Augustine's Church (Chiesa di Sant'Agostino) 21 St Eulalia's Church, archaeological site and Treasure Museum (Chiesa di Sant'Eulalia, area archeologica e Museo del Tesoro) 21 St James's Church (Chiesa di San Giacomo) 24 St Michael Castle (Castello di San Michele) 24 St Michael's Church (Chiesa di San Michele) 23 St Pancras Tower (Torre di San Pancrazio) 20 St Restituta's Crypt (Cripta di Santa Restituta) 23 St Saturnin's Basilica (Basilica di San Saturnino) 24 Studio Dentistico Associato Caruso 30 Studio Odontoiatrico Associato Falconi 30 Teatro Massimo 11 Tennis Club Cagliari 30 The Ghetto (Centro Comunale d'Arte e Cultura Il Ghetto) 20 T Hotel 12 Tirrenia 7 Tour Baire 26 Tourist Information Centre (Ufficio del Turismo) 9 Train Station (Stazione ferroviaria) 7 University and Old College (Palazzo dell'Università ed ex Seminario) 20 Via Roma and Town Hall (Palazzo Comunale) 22 Vinvoglio Wine Jazz Club 18 Volotea 25 Wax Anatomical Models Museum (Museo delle Cere Anatomiche Clemente Susini) 21 X-MEM 9

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