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Derrick's Beeman P17 Overhaul Finale Back to the overhaul.

Time to remove the compression chamber and the valve assembly. Using a 2mm allen wrench, loosen the setscrew bearing against the cross pin anchoring the chamber to the lower grip frame shown below. It's unnecessary to remove the setscrew. About one full turn out is sufficient. With the setscrew loose, drive the cross pin completely out with a drift. The compression chamber lifts right out. At the bottom of the chamber there are 3 steel "fingers" held in slots by a small cross pin. Punch out the small pin and pull the "fingers" out of their slots. Note that the center "finger" is different at the base. The small tab at the bottom guides the sear through its travel pulling the hammer. It's not a bad idea to polish the bottom guiding edge of that center finger. Here's the compression tube. The breech o-ring can be seen near the top, left side. The valve stem is sticking out on the top right. It's a pull open valve. The hammer pulls the stem downward releasing the trapped air through the transfer port at the breech. A 13mm wrench removes the brass nut to access the valve. Oops. Pulled the top o-ring off already. I'm ahead of myself. The o-ring fits on the end of the valve stem in the groove. It's a #006. I took that #006 o-ring off so I could carefully hold that end of the valve in a padded vise. A 7mm wrench removes the black nut that the hammer pulls against. The stem is peened slightly so the nut won't come off in use. Removing the nut also removes the slight peen and allows for complete disassembly. I polished the entire valve stem on the buffer and carefully cleaned off the buffing compound. I also found a higher quality replacement hnbr o-ring (the green colored oring) to seal the valve circumference. Note: this o-ring is the same size as the breech oring. Buzzy's Slick Honey is a superb o-ring lube--especially for sliding fit parts that still need to air seal. The threadlocker will replace the peening I removed. Thought I'd also teflon tape the valve nut. You know...just in case. The PTFE tape was too wide. I cut it in half lengthwise and gave it three full wraps. Got all liberal with the Slick Honey. Seriously, this stuff is almost impossible to wipe off. It is incredibly thin and lasts dang near forever. It was first marketed years ago by a world renown suspension tuner, Arlo Englund, as a shock bushing grease. It was first called

Don't install the piston yet. This was the pin with the small e-clips from part one. Like this. The hammer. About 11 individual parts. sear and trigger group. I didn't have a hnbr o-ring small enough for the valve seat seal. then assembled the parts onto the pivot pin. Did I mention that the black nut was installed with a thread locking agent? I don't want the nut to loosen at all in use. Now the sear assembly can be slid into location. I decided to quickly polish the main pivot pin for the upper assembly. too. The compression tube was then pinned back in place in the lower grip frame. Then. She goes back in like this. reinstall the barrel into the top cover. Let's put this mess back together first. I lightly greased all the parts with the Buzzy's Slick Honey. Polished out. Not shown is the pivot pin. It seems impossible to me. I reinstalled the torsion spring into the bottom of the hammer assembly and set the center of the spring loop onto the post molded into the grip. Please refer back to the earlier post's pictures for reassembly. Time to reassemble. as the hammer pulls the black nut straight down to fire the gun. Here's the sear with it's small torsion spring oriented correctly. Don't seat the lower end of the torsion spring. then the o-ring reseated. . Holding the stem stationary while threading the brass nut back in will prevent damaging that #006 o-ring. put the hammer assembly onto the valve stem and rotate it forward on the stem and into place.Englund Slick Honey. Be sure to at least lube the o-rings. Almost as an afterthought. pressing the pin into the hole. If better sealing against the breech was required. A dental pick lifts out the breech o-ring. Here's the reassembled valve. this is where a small super thin shim would be placed. Here's the hammer assembly. This is actually very straightforward. My green 0-friend. Essentially it goes back together as follows: First. Then. I did not attach the small coil spring onto the lever just yet. Notice. Leave the tail end of the spring hanging out the rear of the grip as shown above. Ah yes. but only 3 assemblies. WHAT? I know.

384. 378. replace it and lightly lube the o-ring so it forms a positive air seal.5 GAMO MATCH WADCUTTERS 374. it's time to install the piston. I've had best luck installing the pin just far enough to go through both the spring and the sear and then sliding the sear forward through the hammer assembly.6. 382. 383.As an aside. I should mention that in my gun--and in buddy Jason's--the hammer and sear were about as hard as glass. Is the piston's #116 oring in perfect condition? If not. Here's another view of that coil spring.4.5mm allen wrench. WEBLEY FLYING SCOT 388. 376.3. Don't tension the sear's torsion spring.1.0 BEEMAN SILVER BEAR HOLLOWPOINT ---FAST! 399.8.5.1.7.3. Shooting the gun across the chrony with a wide variety of pellets gave the following numbers: CROSMAN PREMIER WADCUTTER ---VERY CONSISTENT 376.5.1. 384. 385. 406. 401. 376. 393.8.6. Pin the top cover assembly (barrel housing) back together with the long cross pin. 381.8.1. 369.2. 371.8. using the needle-nose pliers. 381. 386.5. 379. 381. tap the pin back in and snug down the 2mm set screw.3.8. reattach the small coil spring to the hole in the lever (part of the hammer assembly) and hook the bottom loop of the spring onto the post directly below.6. 405.8 BSA PYLARM 366.2.5.0.0.7.5. 411. 383. 392. Slide the piston into the compression tube.5.7 . 378. 380.6. With this setscrew. 403. 402. 387.2. 374. 380. 387. 379. 373. and snug down the single grip bolt with a 2. Finally. Replace the right side grip panel-taking care to align all the pivot pins. Now is a fine time to install the trigger and trigger axis pin. MOST of the P17 problems will be traced back to this single o-ring. No pics necessary.5.1. 377. 380. it's done.9. 379. Using a small pair of needle-nosed pliers.1. 379.8. snapping the e-clip into place. They bear directly on the inside plastic of the grip housing.6.3.1. 401.2.6 And just for fun some weird ones. 399. 388. 380.5. 385. 369.9. Push the sear's pivot pin into it's hole.5. 406. Finally. 380.2. 381. tension both the sear and the hammer torsion springs by seating their ends into the grip frame. The coil spring is directly behind the trigger if you look at the above picture.8.1.

Mine started doing this the other day and I immediately assumed it was the air valve not seating. it's never been listed on their website. I'd put the rear end of the spring into the left grip panel on reassembly and that's not the way to do it. Sometimes it worked fine. then--whoosh. Frustrating. It appears that the problem was the v-shaped hammer spring binding inside the grip frame. The tail end of the spring must be seated into the RIGHT grip panel or the spring will bind. . Close examination revealed that the sear wasn't catching the hammer consistently. A rebuild of the air valve showed nothing was wrong and the problem continued. Updated note: I've gotten many questions about P17's dumping their air on the closing stroke.A strange fact: While Beeman has sold this gun now for several years under 3 different model names.