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Due to shipping guidelines & restrictions most units ship unloaded (with the media in separate box[es]). This also cuts down on shipping costs and makes positioning and installing your system easier. If the system is unloaded, loading is fairly easy, simply use the step-by-step instructions below. If the system is already loaded (some systems shipped by truck are loaded) you may skip the filling guide and start with the installation instructions. The number of packages you receive can vary depending on the unit you order and how it is packaged for shipping. In general, the following is what to expect:

One (1) Resin (Media) Tank (a tall slender tank 48" - 54" in height with an opening on the top) (Two [2] for dual tank systems) One (1) Control Head (either on the tank already or in a separate box) One (1) Brine Tank (Salt tank, resembles a plastic trash can & lid) Softening Resin (bag[s] of amber color beads) Note: Quantity of resin depends upon the system ordered, and partial bags may be packaged differently Note: Some large systems will also have gravel (small rocks or pebbles) that will be put in the tank before the resin IF YOU ORDERED MORE THAN 1 SYSTEM YOUR RECEIPT MAY INDICATE WHICH MEDIA WILL GO IN WHICH TANK. SOME SYSTEMS MAY HAVE DIFFERENT SIZED RISER TUBES. MATCH UP YOUR RISER TUBE WITH THE CORRECT CONTROL HEAD BEFORE FILLING YOUR TANK. IF YOU ARE UNSURE, PLEASE CONTACT US FOR ASSISTANCE.


Fig. 1 Tank & Riser

Look inside your resin tank (if the control head is already on the tank, simply un-screw the head counter-clockwise) and there will be a 1" plastic tube inside (Fig. 1). This is your "Riser Tube" that delivers treated water into your home through the valve. It may have a plastic plug on the top end of it (most do not) so nothing can fall down inside the tank while you are loading the media. Pull out the riser tube to inspect it to make sure it is intact and without damage. These are very durable and would rarely ever be damaged, but it is a good idea to check. Place the riser

tube back into the tank and center it at the bottom before filling. The riser tube sits in a depression at the bottom of the tank and extends to the top; ensure that it is no more than " above the top of the tank. If higher than " use a sharp knife or similar tool to cut it flush with the top of the tank. DO NOT CUT THE RISER TUBE TOO SHORT! If your riser tube is too short it will not seal inside the control head properly and your system will not work properly. If the top of the tube does not have a plug in it, simply put a piece of tape, a peice of plastic held by a rubber band, or a 35mm film case over the end to keep the media from falling down into the tube. Next, stand back and look at your resin tank, and make sure it is standing straight up and not tilted to one side. Sometimes during shipment, the black "boot" on the bottom of the tank will get knocked out of alignment and you will need to straighten it out before filling the tank with media. If your tank is a bit tilted, simply pick the tank up 2 - 3 inches off the floor and drop it gently but firmly down, favoring the side of the boot that needs to be adjusted to make the tank stands straight up again. Inspect the top edge of the resin tank. Make sure there are no deep scratches or cuts. This is where the O-ring seals against the top of the tank. If there are deep scratches, use can use sand paper to smooth out before continuing. TIP: By adding 10" - 12" of water at the bottom of your tank before filling you can help buffer the media as you fill your tank. You can use a funnel with a large opening for the media or just fill by using a cup. If you do not have a large funnel to fit, the best thing to use is your household blender pitcher. Take the bottom blade section off of your blender and the pitcher will screw directly into your resin tank making a perfect funnel. You will load the media in the top of the resin tank (ensure the riser tube is inside the resin tank and is covered!). Gravel and filter media load fairly easily, softener resin sometimes clings to itself and it is easier to pour in a little at a time to work it down around the riser into the tank. Most filter systems come with gravel, while most residential water softeners do not. If your system came with gravel load it into the resin tank first. Next, scoop the media into the funnel, slowly letting it fall down inside the resin tank around the riser tube, keeping the riser tube as centered as possible. If you have multiple media types in your system, the order is not important, as long as THE GRAVEL GOES IN FIRST. In general, it is usually easier to add any small amounts of media (NOT gravel) (under 10 lbs.) last. If you have a twin alternating water softener using the Fleck 9000 or 9100 head, divide the media equally between the two resin tanks. When you have scooped all of the media into the resin tank it will not be completely full. Some systems (such as the Pyrolox) may fill the tank less than half full due to the density of the media. Water softeners are sized to be filled to about 2/3. Just make sure the unit is not filled past full to leave room for backwashing. Remove the media funnel and take the cover off the end of the riser tube. NOTE: NOW IS THE BEST TIME TO FILL THE TANK WITH WATER. FILLING THE TANK NOW

Remove any loose media and dry any water off the top opening of the tank. Apply a silicone lubricant or very light coat of vegetable oil (DO NOT USE PETROLEUM BASED LUBRICANTS SUCH AS VASELINE) to the top lip of the resin tank (where the control head will sit) with your finger. This will help lubricate the large O-ring on the bottom of the valve. Look at the bottom of your control valve and you will see an opening with an O-ring inside. Make sure to lubricate this


Fig. 2 Upper Basket

Fig. 2 Dispersal Basket

Your system may or may not come with an upper basket (Fig. 2). If your unit came with an upper basket the larger end will fit inside the bottom of your control valve, with the smaller end sliding over the riser tube pointing down into the tank. Tilt the valve over on top of the resin tank making sure the top of the riser tube slips inside the opening in the bottom of the valve. Screw the valve down onto the resin tank. Have someone hold the tank as you snugly tighten the valve onto the tank. Be sure to hold the valve close to the solid body of the valve as you tighten it onto the tank. Tighten the control valve a little past snug, and then stop! Do not try to over tighten the valve onto the tank. The large O-ring will seal itself, and you will not be able to turn it any further. Your unit is ready to install!


These instructions are a step-by-step guide to installing your new Abundant Flow Water system. These are general guideline instructions for typical installations and are not designed to cover every possible application. Always check your local plumbing codes and follow any codes that apply. If you are uncertain about something during the installation of your system contact someone who is more knowledgeable for help, such as a knowledgeable friend or a plumber. We at Abundant Flow Water Follow can answer your questions about your system and water treatment, we are not, however, plumbers, so please contact your local plumber for any plumbing related questions. MANY HOMEOWNERS INSTALL THEIR OWN WATER SYSTEMS WITH BASIC PLUMBING SKILLS; IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH PROJECTS LIKE THIS, PLEASE GET HELP FROM A FRIEND OR A PROFESSIONAL PLUMBER. ABUNDANT FLOW WATER SYSTEMS WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR MISTAKES, DAMAGE OR INJURY CAUSED BY IMPROPER INSTALLATION. BY MAKING YOUR PURCHASE, YOU AGREE TO THESE TERMS. Read over all instructions prior to installation, and have all parts and components gathered and readily accessible. Have someone available to help you in case you need it. If you have to shut the water off to your house, be sure and turn your electric water heater off to prevent burning out the element. Once your system is installed and water is back on, open a faucet for a few minutes to help purge air out of the system before turning your water heater back on.

There are many materials that can be used for installing your new system. Copper, PVC, CPVC, and PEX are the most popular. Galvanized iron can be used but is labor intensive and requires tools that most people don't have. Flexible connectors are also used by some that don't have any interest in soldering. BE SURE TO CHECK LOCAL PLUMBING CODES FOR ANY RESTRICTIONS ON MATERIAL THAT YOU CAN USE! A simple hot water tank installation kit available at most Home Depot or Lowe's stores will do just fine if you have 3/4" (7/8" OD) copper or CPVC. These kits include compression fittings that will attach to the filter's inlet & outlet, and to the main line. Whichever material you choose, it's a good idea to set the system in the desired location and try to estimate the number of fittings and pipe you will need. Some prefer not to filter the water spigots that go outside used for irrigation or sprinkler systems. You will have to plan the job so that you cut in the water line AFTER these spigots. If on a well, you will need to install the system AFTER the pressure tank. This ensures an even pressure to the system and prevents media from being thrown into your plumbing. The order of filter tank systems will vary depending on the systems installed, but the general order is as follows: pH filter - sediment filter - iron filter - carbon filter - water softener. If you have a system not listed here or have any other questions call or email us for more help. Be sure to include the name of the person who ordered the system so we can look up and verify which system(s) were purchased. LET'S GET STARTED! Make sure your chosen location will be fairly level, dry, and protected from possible freezing conditions. The plastic base of the resin tank is slightly adjustable to non-even floors. If shimming is needed, you can make shims from small, flattened pieces of copper pipe, or some other non corrosive material. Do not use wood or make-shift platforms as they are not very sturdy and can cause damage the tank, injury to people, or damage to property. You will need a standard 3-prong 120V outlet to plug your control valve into. We recommend using a GFI (ground fault interrupter) within 5' of your system. (Be sure to follow any local building codes) DO NOT USE AN EXTENSION CORD! Use of an extension cord can create a fire hazard and may void your warranty. You will need a drain or drain pipe to run your drain line to, preferably within 15' of your system. (Your drain line can be ran to an overhead drain pipe) You will need 1/2" I. D. (inside diameter) flexible tubing for your drain line, which can be readily found at your local hardware store. If you will be running your drain line farther than 15', use larger tubing instead. Make sure to give yourself room to run your drain line, and do not make any sharp turns in the tubing as this will cause kinking and will prevent your system from backwashing effectively. INSTALLING THE BYPASS VALVE:

Fig. 3 Bypass Valve

Fig. 4 Copper Adapter

Fig. 3a Meter Assembly

Fig. 3a Meter Assembly

Your unit comes with a stainless steel bypass valve (Fig. 3) and meter assembly (Fig. 3a) which may or may not be installed. When working with the meter assembly, great care must be taken when securing the screws into the assembly. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS, AS THIS WILL CRACK THE METER ASSEMBLY AND CAUSE LEAKS. If not, locate the meter assembly and note the direction of flow as indicated by the arrows, also note the direction of flow on the head itself, also indicated by arrows. The inlet side arrow will point toward the front of the head, the outlet side arrow will point away from the head. Also, the outlet side of the meter assembly will have a the turbine visible in it. IT IS IMPORTANT TO INSTALL THE METER ASSEMBLY CORRECTLY OR THE SYSTEM WILL NOT FUNCTION PROPERLY. Using silicon lubricant or vegetable oil (DO NOT USE PETROLIUM BASED LUBRICANTS LIKE VASELINE) put a small coating on all 4 o-rings on the meter assembly. Slip the meter assembly onto the head. Next, locate the bypass valve and note the direction of flow as indicated by the arrows. IT IS IMPORTANT TO INSTALL THE BYPASS VALVE CORRECTLY! INSTALLING THE BYPASS VALVE BACKWARDS MAY RESULT IN RESIN BEING THROWN INTO YOUR HOME'S PLUMBING SYSTEM, CAUSING DAMAGE TO YOUR PLUMBING AND THE CONTROL HEAD, AS WELL AS IMPROPER SYSTEM OPERATION. The connections on the bypass valve will be either " or 1" female threads; you will need to get adapters at your local plumbing supply store to fit your personal plumbing type. If you are using copper adapters to connect to the bypass valve, first solder a 3 piece of copper pipe into the adapters, away from the bypass valve (Fig. 4), and let the adapter cool off completely before connecting them to the bypass valve. THIS STEP PROTECTS YOUR BYPASS VALVE FROM DAMAGE! Excess heat generated by soldering pipe into the adapters can damage the internal workings of the bypass valve and can lead to improper system function. Once you are ready to connect your adapters to the bypass valve, apply a high quality plumber's pipe joint compound (Teflon tape is NOT recommended) to the threads on the adapters and on your bypass valve. Screw the adapters into the bypass valve good and tight. (A vise is an excellent tool to hold the bypass valve as you ensure the adapters are tightened securely.) DO NOT TIGHTEN THE


This may

damage the control head and prevent you from tightening the adapters properly.

Fig. 5 Connected Bypass

Fig. 5 Connected Bypass

Once your adapters are connected to the bypass valve, connect your bypass valve to the meter assembly. Ensure the arrows on the bypass valve line up with the arrows molded on the control valve and meter assembly. Once the bypass valve is connected, secure it in place using the clips and screws connected to the meter assembly. (Fig. 5). Tighten the screws just enough to where the clips hold the control head and bypass valve together. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS, AS THIS WILL CRACK THE METER ASSEMBLY AND CAUSE LEAKS. The replacement meter assembly is not cheap ($129), and cracks caused by overtightening are NOT covered under warranty. Connect the meter cable (the small black cable coming from the back of the control head) into the matching hole on the meter assembly. PLUMBING IN YOUR FILTER UNIT PLEASE READ THROUGH ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING INSTALLATION! THIS WILL

If you have private well, turn the power off to the pump then shut off the main water shut off valve. If you have municipal water, simply shut off the main valve. Go to a faucet, (preferably as close to the installation location as possible) turn on the cold water until all pressure is relieved and the flow of water stops. If your hot water tank is electric, turn off the power to it to avoid damage to the element in the tank.

Fig. 6 Shiny Copper Pipe

Locate the resin tank with control valve installed in the desired location; left of a vertical main line is ideal. This way the inlet can be easily ran to the main line, then the outlet a few inches higher (or lower, depending on your plumbing). If you're installing a unit with a bypass valve, notice that these assemblies will travel slightly up and down. This is normal because of the Oring seals at each end. The bypass valve may be supported in a level position with a temporary brace until the pipes are joined together and any pipe straps are installed. This will result in a

neater, straighter connection. When installing take care not to exert too much force on the bypass valve. Taking the bypass off when installing fittings will prevent damage to the control head. If you plan to solder the connections, remember the pipes must be clean, shiny (Fig. 6), and DRY. DO NOT TRY TO STUFF BREAD INTO A PIPE TO STOP WATER FROM DRIPPING INTO YOUR FITTINGS. If a shut off valve leaks some water slightly or the pipes keep dripping, try to install a new valve, or drain down the house's plumbing further by opening more taps and or removing some water from the bottom of the hot water tank with power and/or gas off. Use a high quality soldering flux and solder used for making any copper connections, DO NOT USE ELECTRIC WIRE. Always wear safety glasses. A fire extinguisher nearby is also a good idea for novice plumbers to have handy, just in case. Soldering will cause some smoke detectors to go off if located in close proximity.

Fig. 7 Service Position

Fig. 8 Bypass Position

WHEN SOLDERING ENSURE THAT THE BYPASS VALVE IS IN THE "SERVICE" POSITION AND OPEN A NEARBY FAUCET This prevents heat damage by allowing steam to escape. Failure to do so can cause poor solder joints and can lead to leaks. To use the bypass valve, simply turn the handle to the proper position. To put the system in "Bypass", turn the handle counterclockwise until the pointer is pointed to "Bypass" (Fig. 7). To put the system in "Service", turn the handle clockwise until the pointer is pointed to "Service" (Fig. 8). With a pencil, mark a section of pipe to be removed from the main line. This is where you will direct the water to the system and then from the system back to your plumbing, called your "cut in point". Allow yourself plenty of room to connect any necessary fittings. It is usually a good idea to "rough in" your connections. This simply means loosely connecting the pipes and fittings (DO NOT permanently attach them yet) to get an idea of where everything will run and ensure you have everything you will need. Once you have established the cut in point, make the cuts and remove the section of pipe. Clean the cut ends, flux (if copper) and wait for any water to drain completely out. You may also want to siphon some water out of the main line, just enough so the water level standing in the pipe is lower than where you will attaching the fitting. Measure pieces of pipe, clean, flux and complete the inlet connection to the main line. This will be the connection that carries the untreated water to your system. Do the same for the outlet, the connection that carries treated water back to your home. WHEN SOLDERING THE FINAL CONNECTION, DISCONNECT THE BYPASS VALVE FROM THE VALVE, ENSURE THAT THE BYPASS VALVE IS IN THE "SERVICE" POSITION (FIG. 7), AND OPEN A NEARBY

This prevents heat damage by allowing steam to escape. Failure to do so can cause poor solder joints and can lead to leaks. Once you are finished, give the connections time to set, (time varies according to material used and method of sealing), then place the bypass valve in the "Bypass" position (Fig. 8). Make sure a faucet is open somewhere and that any aerator is removed to avoid clogging from loosened scale in the pipes. Turn the main valve on slightly, watching carefully for leaks. Leave the bypass valve in the bypassed position and slowly turn the main shutoff valve on all the way. If you have no leaks, proceed to the next steps. If leaks are discovered, turn main water supply off and correct before moving on. CONNECTING YOUR DRAIN LINE:

Fig. 9 Drain Fitting

Your drain line connection should be attached the back of your control head already (Fig 9). Check to ensure that the barbed fitting has been properly sealed with teflon tape. If it has not, remove and wrap with Teflon tape, then screw back in. Use a hose clamp to connect your drain line to the drain barb fitting. Drain line is not usually included with the unit since it is part of your plumbing and every application is different. You will need some " inner diameter flexible tubing you can get from any hardware store to use. If running your drain line more than 15', you will need to use larger tubing instead. Run your drain line to a nearby drain or drain pipe. It can be ran up overhead or down along the floor. Please follow your local health department codes for where to run filter discharge water. NEVER MAKE A DIRECT CONNECTION INTO A WASTE WATER DRAIN. A PHYSICAL AIR GAP OF AT LEAST 3" SHOULD BE USED TO AVOID BACTERIA AND WASTEWATER TRAVELING BACK THROUGH THE DRAIN LINE INTO THE FILTER Using a simple P-trap or a standpipe of at least 1-1/2" on your homes drain line to connect to is always best.


Fig. 11 Brine Tank

Fig. 13 Brass Nut Assembly

Fig. 14 Brine Fitting

Fig. 12 Float

Fig. 15 Plastic Nut Assembly

Locate the brine tank, it is a plastic tank about the size of a 30-40 gallon trash can (Fig. 11 Example only, actual design may vary). Remove the lid and look down inside, you will notice the float assembly (Fig. 12) and may see a plastic salt grid. Note: Most units do not utilize a salt grid, if your system did not come with one it should not need one. Remove the float assembly (you may need to remove a nut or two before removing the float) and take the rubber band off the bottom of the assembly. The float will need to be positioned about halfway up the side of the brine tank to help prevent over filling the brine tank. The float is attached to a rod held in place with a couple rubber washers. Replace the float inside the brine tank and adjust accordingly, cutting the excess rod. NOTE: Be sure to leave an inch or two of the rod above the rubber washer to allow for adjustment in future if needed. Next, connect the brine tank to the control valve. Using the brass nut, ferrule, and insert provided (Fig. 13 - may be located inside the bag with the service manual or already attached to the control valve), connect one end of a piece of 3/8" tubing to the brine fitting on the side of the control valve (Fig. 14). The other end of the line will connect to the brine tank using a plastic nut, 2 sleeves, and insert (usually located inside the brine tank or already attached to the float assembly). First, place the plastic nut over the end of the tube (threads facing the end of the tubing), followed by the black compression ring (smaller, tapered end toward nut), then the white compression ring (larger end toward nut), and finally place the brass insert into the end of the tube (Fig. 15). Place the end of the tubing firmly into the float assembly fitting, then secure by tightening the black nut until snug. Use a wrench to tighten an additional - turn. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! If your system came with a mesh screen insert, it will go inside the line with the insert on the end of the line that connects to the brine tank. (Parts for the brine tank are usually inside the brine tank. Be careful not to over tighten and cause leaks. The white barbed fitting on the outside of the brine tank is an overflow fitting. It is usally a good idea to run this to a nearby drain or overflow bucket (no higher that the fitting itself). This acts as an additional saftey measure to prevent overfilling the brine tank should the float valve fail. NOTE: IF YOU ALREADY FILLED YOUR TANK WITH WATER BEFORE PLACING THE CONTROL HEAD ON THE UNIT, YOU MAY SKIP THE NEXT PARAGRAPH. Ensure that all faucets in the house are closed, leaving just one open, preferably an outside line (if connected to the filter) a laundry sink or bathtub. Turn the bypass valve slightly to allow water to run into the unit. You want water to initially fill the tank slowly. This prevents media from being pushed up into the control head by the initial surge of water going in. Once the tank is full of water you should start to see water flowing from the open faucet. If media got in the riser tube, some media may come out as well. This is alright as long as it is just a small amount. Once the water is free from air pockets, go ahead and turn the bypass valve into the "service position". You should have a full flow from the open faucet at this point. Close the faucet and go around opening the other faucets in your house one by one until the air is out of all of them.

NOTE: For the most up-to-date display codes please refer to your Service Manual.

SXT Controls

Plug the control head into an outlet. The SXT controller uses an LCD display and touchpad controls to simplify programming the system. The diagram indicates the various controls and displays you will use. When referring to a setting, the following format will be used:

[Paramter Dislplay - Data Display]

Brief explanation of what the setting controls and recommendations for correctly setting it. SETTING TIME OF DAY

[TD - 7:04]
Time of Day, tells the system what the current time is. To change the time, press and hold the up OR down arrow until the service icon is replaced with the programming icon. Use the up and down arrows to set the time of day (PM is indicated in the upper right corner of the screen). Once the time is set, press the extra cycle button or don't press anything for 5-10 seconds to return to normal operation. USER PROGRAMMING SETUP To enter user programming mode, ensure clock DOES NOT say 12:01 pm. Press and hold the up AND down arrow buttons together for 5-10 seconds until the programming icon appears and a parameter code is displayed. Once each setting has been entered, use the extra cycle button to advance to the next setting. PLEASE NOTE: The settings shown are only examples, settings will vary depending on situational differences.

[DO - 14]
Day Override, this setting will cause the system to regenerate after the set number of days regardless of useage. Typically set at 14 to ensure the resin gets lifted and cleaned off occasionally. This ensures effective filtration and long media life.

[RT - 12:00]
Regeneration Time, this is the time of day the system will regenerate. This process takes 2-3 hours, so schedule it when water will not be used (when everyone is asleep is usually ideal) and ensure it does not conflict with any other backwashing systems you may have

[H - 15]
Hardness, this is the hardness of the water as measured in grains per gallon (gpg). If your test shows hardness as parts per million (ppm) or milligrams per liter (mg/l) simply divide by 17.1 to get grains per gallon.

[RC - 200]
Reserve Capacity, this is the number of gallons the controller subtacts from the system's capacity as a reserve, usually set at 200. Since the system does not regenerate immediately when the capacity reaches 0, the reserve allows it to continue softening the water until it is able to regenerate. NOTE: For large families or homes with high hardness a higher reserve capacity may be needed.

[CD - 5]
Current day of the week, numbered 1-7. This setting is only present on systems set up on day-ofthe-week regeneration. NOTE: Different or additional options may show up depending on valve settings. If so please check the Master Programming as indicated below. Once all parameters have been set, press the extra cycle button one more time to save your settings (setting changes will be canceled if no buttons are pressed for 60 seconds). The display

should then show the service icon, with the data display flashing between the current time of day and remaining system capacity. As water flows through the system the flow indicator will flash and the system capacity will count down. Once it reaches 0 the system will queue a regeneration for the set regeneration time. A flashing service icon idicates that a regeneration is queued. A manual regeneration can be queued by pressing the extra cycle button, and an immediate regeneration can be initiated by holding the extra cycle button for about 5 seconds. MASTER PROGRAMMING NOTE: WHEN FIRST INSTALLING THE SYSTEM IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO DOUBLE CHECK THESE SETTINGS TO ENSURE PROPER OPERATION. DO NOT MAKE CHANGES OUTSIDE THE RECOMMENDATIONS WITHOUT FIRST CONSULTING ONE OF OUR EXPERTS. Set clock to 12:01 pm. Hold both the up and down arrow buttons together for 5-10 seconds until display changes, the service icon will be replaced with the programming icon and the parameter display should show "DF". Once each setting has been entered, use the extra cycle button to advance to the next setting. PLEASE NOTE: This list shows all possible options, some of which will not be applicable and may not be shown. Options with a asterisk(*) SHOULD NOT appear, if they do, please contact us to ensure your system is properly set up. The settings shown are for the most common configurations, some variations will occur. UNLESS SPECIFICALLY TOLD TO DO SO IN THESE INSTRUCTIONS OR BY ONE OF OUR EXPERTS, DO NOT CHANGE ANY OF THESE SETTINGS. If there is a significant difference between this guide and the actual setting, please contact us for further assistance. PLEASE NOTE: Improper settings can lead to shortened system life, improper filtration, and damage to the system and/or your home.

[DF - Gal]
Display format, shown settings is gallons. Liters [Ltr] and Cubic Meters [Cu] are alternative settings, however, all instructions are written on the basis of the [Gal] display format.

[VT - St1b]
Valve type, water softeners use the standard flow single backwash setting. Other settings include standard flow double backwash [St2b], Filter [Fltr], Upflow brine first [UFbF], TwinFlo100SXT [8500], and other [Othr]

[CT - Fd]
Control Type, sets the opereration of the controller. Softeners use a meter (flow) delayed setting, this regenerates the system at the preset time after the capacity reaches 0. Other settings include meter (flow) immediate [Fl] where the regeneration begins as soon as the capacity reaches 0, time clock [tc] where regeneration is based on time passed, and day of week [day] where regeneration is based on the current day of the week.

[NT - 1]
Number of Tanks, used on multi-tank systems.

[TS - U1]
Tank in Service, used on multi-tank systems.

[C - 48]
System Capacity, tells the control head the capacity of the system in grains. Standard system sizes, with amount of resin and common tank size associated with it: 32,000 (32k) - 1 cubic foot of resin, 9"x48" tank; 48,000 (48k) - 1.5 cubic feet of resin, 10"x54" tank (this is the setting shown); 64,000 (64k) - 2 cubic feet of resin, 12"x48" tank; 96,000 (96k) - 3 cubic feet, 13"x54" tank. NOTE: Often times this setting will need to be configured to the size of your system. If

unsure of your system size check your sales receipt or contact us with the name it was ordered under for assitance.

[H - 15]
Hardness, this is the hardness of the water as measured in grains per gallon (gpg). This setting is based on the water hardess in your home and is set in the user programming as detailed above.

[RS - rc]
Reserve Selection, dictates how the reserve capacity is calculated, either as a fixed gallon capacity [rc] or a percentage of the system capacity [SF].

[SF - *]
Safety Factor, the percentage of the system capacity to be used as a reserve when Reserve Selection is set to [SF].

[RC - 200]
Reserve Capacity, the number of gallons set as reserve when Reserve Selection is set to [rc]. Set in the user programming mode as detailed above.

[DO - 14]
Day Override, regenerates the system after the set number of days regardless of water use. Set in user programming as detailed above.

[RT - 12:00]
Regeneration time, dictates the time for regeneration. Set in the user programming mode as detailed above.

[BW - 10]
Backwash, the length of time used for the backwash part of the regeneration cycle.

[BD - 60]
Brine Draw, the length of time where the system draws water from the brine tank to rejuvenate the resin.

[RR - 10]
Rapid rinse, the length of time used for the rapid rinse part of the regeneration cycle.

[BF - 10]
Brine fill, the amount of time the system uses to refill the brine tank in preparation for the next regeneration cycle.

[D1 - *]
Used to set the days of the week that the system regenerates on systems set to [CT - day]

[CD - *]
Sets the current day for systems set to [CT - day]

[FM - t1.2]
Flow Meter Type, tells the controller the type of flow meter being used. Standard flow meter on 5600SXT softener systems is the " turbine [t0.7]. Availabe settings include " paddlewheel [P0.7], 1" turbine [t1.0], 1" paddlewheel [P1.0], 1.5" turbine [t1.5], 1.5" paddlewheel [P1.5], and generic meter [Gen].

[K - *]
Meter pulses per gallon for genereic meters on systems set to [FM - Gen] After the system is installed, the control head is programmed and salt is placed in the brine tank (you want a minimum of 20 pounds of salt in the brine tank at all times, and it may be filled up to the overflow fitting if desired) it is usually a good idea to put the system through an immediate

regeneration cycle. This allows the system to rinse itself, puts the correct amount of water in the brine tank, and ensures the resin is evenly distributed and ready to treat your water. During the regeneration cycle do not use water as it will be untreated and may interfere with the regeneration process. This process can last up to 2 hours so plan around it. To initiate a manual regeneration, simply push the extra regen button (the bottom that looks like arrows going in a circle) for about 5 seconds. The display should change to 1-(length of cycle) and you should hear water rushing through the system. Simply pressing the extra regen button once will schedule a regeneration at the set regeneration time regardless of the remaining capacity. Once the regeneration cycle is complete, you can start using water as normal.


Resin life varies depending on a number of factors, but on average you can expect to get 10-15 years of treatment before the resin wears out and needs to be replaced. High contaminate levels, high water use, and improper or infrequent regeneration, can all shorten the life of your resin and require more frequent media changes. Replacement resin can be ordered from the products section of our web site when needed for replacement. To replace, close the bypass valve (where the notch on the valve handle is pointing to bypass) and initiate a manual regeneration. This will relieve pressure on the unit. Then disconnect the bypass valve from the control head using the 2 screws on the side. Unscrew control head, siphon or pump out the water, & dump out the old resin . If it is stuck inside the tank a hose or rod may be required to work it loose, just be careful to avoid breaking the riser tube or tank. Once the old stuff has been removed put in the new resin following instructions for loading above. Screw the control head back on, reconnect the bypass valve and ensure the control head is in the "service" position. Slowly open the bypass valve until you hear water entering the system. Once the system is full of water initiate a regeneration cycle. The system is now ready to continue cleaning your water.

Problem Possible Cause 1. No Power 2. Power Failure System Does Not 3. Defective Motor Regenerate 4. System is Bypassed 5. Meter Not Couting Down System Is Not Softening 1. Drain Line is Kinked Solution Ensure unit is plugged in and receiving power Ensure system is not on a switch that gets turned off Reset time of day, check settings Replace Motor Ensure bypass valve is in "Service" position Refer to "Meter not counting down" section Ensure drain line is as straight as possible without any kinks

Problem Possible Cause 2. Drain Fitting or Drain Line Blocked 3. System Is Not Regenerating Enough Solution Check drain fitting and drain line and clear any obstructions Ensure system is counting down and regenerating automatically Increase the regeneration frequency (decrease gallon capacity or set higher hardness) Ensure tube is not cracked or broken Ensure O-ring where tube connects to head is in good condition, replace if necessary Replace Resin See "System Not Drawing Brine" Check motor, replace if necessary Remove piston and check for any debris, clean if necessary Inspect piston, seals, & spacers, replace if necessary Check line for obstructions and remove Check drain fitting and drain line and clear any obstructions Clean or replace injector nozzle and injector throat* Remove bypass valve & remove any obstruction in meter Ensure bypass valve is in "Service" position Ensure meter cable is connected from the valve to the meter assembly Ensure meter assembly is connected with turbine on the output side

4. Distributor (Riser) Tube is Leaking 5. Resin is fouled 6. Brine not being drawn 1. Motor stopped or jammed Water Continuously Runs to Drain 2. Debris in Head 3. Internal Leak 1. Brine line clogged System Not Using Brine 2. Drain Fitting or Drain Line Blocked 3. Injector nozzle or throat clogged 1. Obstruction Blocking Meter Turbine 2. System is Bypassed Meter Not Counting Down 3. Meter Cable Disconnected 4. Meter Assembly Backwards

*NOTE: If the brine line and drain line are fine and cleaning the injector pieces does not solve the problem, replace the injector parts. Sometimes the injector parts are clogged, even if it appears that they are clean.