MAY. 7
'902
CLASS? CV XXC.
NO.
TO TAKE MEASURE.
aim** COPY
"
TO TAKE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER.
BUST.— Stand behind the lady—This measure is taken over the most prominent point of the bust and take this well up over the shoulder blades in the back measure easy, " not tight," just so that the tape line
—
inch more put this measure down will be smooth than the tape line calls for " do not forget this. WAIST. Take this measure around the smallest part of the waist tight, and deduct one inch.
—
—
I
Stand behind the lady, place the center of the tape the back of the neck. Carry the ends forward over the shoulder, bringing them back under the arms (have the lady raise her arms slightly), and draw very snug straight across the back and place a pin or
line across
S
—
mark at the upper edge
of back, then
of the tape line, in the center
FRONT. —From
add
1
measure from the large joint in the neck This measure must be taken to the pin or mark.
exactly as the instructions call for.
collar
bone to waist
line in front
Do
not deviate i
inch to this measure.
joint in
neck to waist line. measure well up under the arm and down to the waist line put this measure down " i inch less " than the tape line calls for. NECK. Around the bare neck easy. ARM'S EYE.— Around the arm snug just over the
BACK — From
of
an inch.
See special instruction for applying this
,
UNDER ARM. —Take
measure.
this
—
—
Measure down line A from line B the height of shoulder measure and place dot X. Measure up line A from dot X 1 inch less than \ of the arm's eye measure and \ of the bust measure straight out and place dot Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line H to dot
1 1 1 1
.
point of the shoulder.
Finish the balance as per general instructions.
ARM MEASURE.
1st.
From
point of shoulder to point of elbow
—the
Forms that carry themselves very erect usually have
a narrow back in proportion to their bust measure. Take the width of back measure., starting at the center of back 3 or 4 inches below the large joint in the neck and measuring to the arm hole (or where the arm hole should come). Use this measure instead of \ of the bust measure in locating dot Take a 42 bust and a 25 waist measure. Should the width of back be 6 it would indicate that the back should be drafted for a 36 bust and a 25 waist measure. Draft line E begin,
hand resting on the chest. From point of elbow to joint on wrist. 2d. 3d. Around the largest part of the arm below the shoulder with the arm bent take this measure
—
snug.
4th.
1
1
.
Around the
largest part of the
elbow
5th.
—take this
measure
in
arm below the the same manner.
Around the hand
tight
SKIRT.
HIPS.
the waist
— From waist line the length desired. —Around the hips "easy" six inches
line.
ning at dot
2.
In drafting the front take the
differ
below
ence between 42 and 36 (the measure used in drafting the back), which is 6. Now take § of 6 4 and add this
——
TO LOCATE THE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER.
back and under arm measure. For a regular form a 16 inch back would require an 8 inch under arm. Should the under arm measure nine inches it would indicate a high shoulder and dot should be only three inches from dot 9. Should the under arm measure be but 7 inches for a 16 inch back it would indicate a low shoulder and dot should be 5 inphes^from dot 9.. This prpportion will apply to othejf meaeureii^ar: initanca :*tf ".the back measure is 17, then the under arm measure should be
careful in taking
would make 46. Now use a 46 bust and 25 waist measure in drafting the front. Use these same proporto 42
tions in drafting for other measures.
Be very
the
IMPORTANT.—The
actly as the
please anyone.
instructions
measure should be taken excall for do not deviate to The bust, waist and neck measures are
—
taken
1
in even inches for instance, should the waist measure be 23, put down 23 should it be nearest 22, put it down 22 take the bust and neck measure in the same manner.
—
—
—
1
See that the lady stands
natural and on both
feet.
Ask
if
she has the same clothing on that she intends
to wear the dress over,
corset.
and
especially inquire about the
9 inches.
^^"iV:\:l:\.
*:.••.
To have a
perfect
fit
you must have a perfeet
it
measure.
If
you have any doubt about the measure take
TO MEASURE FOR CHILDREN.
and press down to the point of mps, and take the measure the same as for adults, except the waist measure, which is taken
Tie a cord around the waist tight
loose.
over again before the lady leaves.
or belt in
it will
Do
not use a cord
taking the measure (except for children) as
front.
short waisted in back and For a very full bust the front measure should be taken from 1$ to 2 inches longer than the tape line
calls for.
make your basque
These measurements are Copyrighted and must be used only
in connection
with our system.
\b~9Q£l LUirev 'J
BUST
BUST Waist 31 BUST 32 BUST 33 .
inch fr° m the edge and end of cloth. Draft lines A and B '4' NECK TABLE.  Back 14 16 8 Under Arm Neck Ann's Eve _ . Use letter V to draft line K.. 12. 3+  Waist Front " . Measure the distance given in the neck table according to size of neck dot 2 down line A fr° m 'i ne B and place dot 2.. _.. . 13 15 I? and 14 " << 16 — — % 23/ 18—2^ 20 22 19 21 " " .. 12. Bust .CENTER BACK... Dot 2 For long shoulders line draft H Vx inch longer than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 1 1 Measure from dot in I straight I down 3/6 and inch and place dot 12. 11 ' 6 To Locate Dot Arm's Eye Measure.
3U&.C For long C SW\ SViA .
Place the y mark on new 2 dot 13 and draft to dot 15. it has no equal. TO LOCATE DOT 10 FROM DOT WAIST MEASURE. 23 2 inches up For dot lines. There is just one way for a gentlewoman to dress when she goes on the street. Measure y 2 inches straight out from dot ^ and place new dot 7. omitting line E Measure )A inch from dot 8 on line f and place dot 10Place the }4 mark on dot 10 and draft line to dot 4.BIAS DART. WAIST WITH ONE DART. place dot 19. on dot 15 and draft line P to dot 19. iio of Waist Measure. and that is in a tailormade suit. THE TAILORMADE DRESS. Firstclass ladies' tailors do not use them. Place letter A on dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches down from dot 6straight Draft lines L M draft line J. making the following changes l Place dot 9 on line E 1 /> inches from dot 6. a small plait in the lining at the point of the bias dart. place a new dot 2 Y\ inch above inch above dot 3 and draft according to dotted For slender forms take See dotted lines. Turn the curve over See diagram. Measure inches straight down from dot 18 and 19. but the perfection of fit and workmanship. Place letter on dot and draft line E to new dot 6. making dot from line J} and drafting to new dot 6. . 2 inches " 22 23 " 2 4 25 " 2627 " 28 z 9 " 3° " 32 3 Above 21 1 2  X 3   VA 32 inches in same proportion. ter commands respect. You cannot get the same results that you do from an actual tailor system. and other contrivances for cutting ladies' dresses. % Measure Measure 3 inches out 5 inches straight Place letter A from dot 15 and place dot 18down from dot 18 and place dot 19. Draft the same as for a plain waist. . 13. shopping. treated as one. Measure 3{ inch Draft from dot straight to dot up from new dot 1 and place dot X. travel. Investigate before you make an investment. Draft line parallel 1 with line N. Place letter A on dot 15 and draft line E to dot X. 1 The market is full 8 to 20 . Not one of them can properly cut a tailor fitting costume— that can be done only on the material the same that a merchant tailor cuts for a man. For business. Place letter A on dot X and draft to dot Draft the shoulder the same as for a plain waist. Charts. Extend line to meet line A 3 inches below dot 8 H H Measure Measure Measure Place the 2^ 1 inches from dot less inch place dot 12straight 10 and place dot on line Fthan the combined width of both darts from dot 1 1 and line H up from the center of the dart and place dot 14 on draft line I to dot V 2 G mark on dot \\ and and and 14. X 18. down. Measure inch in from dot ^ and place dot 15. X Place the corner of square on dot the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot the length of under arm and place new dot 6. Measure }< inch out from dot 6 on line D and place dot X. or railroad You have the satisfaction of looking like a lady and being where you go. . Measure 1 yi. a stout lady with high or full 2 and place a new dot 3 3/j[ shoulders. There is somathing about the tailor dressed woman that no matof Drafting Machines. inches out from dot 13 and place new dot : 13. without ornamentation. Measure inches straight out from new dot ^ and place dot X X A 3^ . Draft the same as for a plain waist down to the darts.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 down from line B and place dot 2 Draft line Draft line A B line A NECK TABLE.BIAS FRONT.00) dollars Reward will be paid for the conviction of any one infringing on any of our copyrights. 2 inches from the edge of cloth. Fifty (S50. one inch from the end of cloth. Dot 2 This waist is very effective when the It bust is full with a small waist. can be cut with good effect on a true bias of both lining and material. .
Draft lines A and B H ' mch from in the the Measure the distance given line R and place dot 2.CENTRE BACK. 14 16 8 Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye — 12 16 . yk 1 Dot 2 Neck Size H J 7 3 . «3 I 1 /. 12 iH. edge and end of goods. Bust Waist 36 22  Front Back . neck table under dot 2 down line A from NECK TABLE. H l S iya lM iM MEASURE.
neck table under dot 2 down line A from NECK TABLE. 34 22 14 16 8 11 Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye 16 .SHIRT WAIST— FRONT. Dot 2 MEASURE. Bust Waist Front Back — — . mcn from the end of cloth. in the line Measure the distance given B and place dot 2. Draft line A B 1 ' Draft line Y\ inches from the edge of cloth.
Ivieasure 6 2 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 9. 36 24 14 16 8 11 Back Under Arm Neck Arm's Kye 16 .^ inch less than the width of under arm form straight out from dot 12 and length of under 6 the edge on dot 13 and measure up the arm and place dot 14Place the point of curve on dot 14 and draft line J to dot \\. and place dot Measure y± of arm's eye measure straight down from dot Y H 12. Bust Waist Front . Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line A from line B and place dot 2 Dot 2 MEASURE. Place letter Q on dot 14 and draft line K to dot 6Draft lines F and (J the same as for a plain waist. Measure 3. Draft lines A and B /\ inch from the edge and end of goods. the edge of curve on dot 10 and draft line H 5s inch less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot H. . Place letter A on dot 3. . Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. place dot 13Place the corner of square on dot TIGHT FITTING SHIRT WAIST— BACK.
SHIRT WAIST— BACK.
i.
Draft lines
A
and
B
Measure the distance given from line B and place dot 2'
2.
Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. in the neck table under dot 2 on
*
l'
ne
A
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
TWO UNDER ARM
For
ter of
all
SHAPES.
1%
Q on
inches from dot 4.
waist measures up to 32
make
the center of back
Place dot 5
Place letter
one inch.
For
1
all
waist measures over 32,
make
the cen
dot 5 in drafting line A.
back
%
inches.
Place dot 7 straight up from 3
length of the
1
For example take 42 bust and 30 waist.
'2 inch more than tr. arm measure, and place dot 8 in frorr. under
—
The
table gives for the center of back,
%
inches
dot 2 only one inch.
For the side body, 3 inches. For under arm shape, $}4 inches.
Second under arm shape
:
Make
"
the following changes the back
:
Take from
" "
l />
inch.
" side body " front
1
'_•
"
" "
4 straight up from dot 2 i arm measure. Place dot 5 one inch more than the under inch from dot 4 and place dot 7 straight up from dot 3 Place dot 8 but one the actual length of arm measure.
Draft the same, placing dot
.'
—
inch in from dot 2.
When
Total,
2
the style of goods will permit the two under arm
forms can be cut on a true bias, both lining, and material
with good effect.
Add
the width of under
arm shape,
Making,
3^
$}4
MEASURE FOR PRACTICE.
Bust
42
"
Waist
30
15
This gives two under arm shapes,
First
2^
inches each.
Front
under arm shape
:
Back Under Arm
17
8
ij
Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the following changes
:
Neck
Arm's Eye
17
—
—
—
FOR VERY LARGE LADIES.
BACK.
Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the center of the back one inch and placing dot 12 but i}& inches from the end of line H.
FIRST SIDE BODY.
Draft the same as for'a plain waist, placing dot 5 dot 2 and placing letter P on dot 5 in drafting line B
—
J
/^ inches from
SECOND SIDE BODY.
Draft the same, drafting a new line N straight out from dot 6 Place dot dot 5 inch from dot 2 and place dot 6 only one inch from dot 5. Place letter P on dot 2 to draft line A and place letter G on dot 5 to draft line B
%
FIRST
UNDER ARM FORM.
same as for a plain waist, placing dot 7 inch more than the under arm measure down from dot 3 and place dot 8 only one inch
Draft the
2l
A
from dot
SECOND UNDER ARM FORM.
l Draft the same, placing dot 4 inch more than the under arm measure up" from dc t 2, and placing dot 7 the actual length of under arm measure up from dot 3See measure for practice.
A
MEASURE FOR PRACTICE.
Bust
50
Waist
Front
40
16
17
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye
1
8
15 19
Back
Take from the
"
"
front, ...
inch.
"
Add
"
back, width of side body,. " under arm shape "
1
4
4^
"
This
will
Width
Total 10^ give the width of the side body, each of under arm shape, each 2^.
2%.
Low Cut Corset line G should be lowered one inch. out line D from dot 5 )i inch than the table gives for place dot (J. and draft line C to dot 3Place letter C on dot 6. Place the 25. inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 22straight down from dot 22 to line DDraft line 3'from line D and place dot 23Measure 1 y? inches up line 2 3 Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 2433Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 634on dot 24 arid extend line S to dot 22Place letter 35 Measure Measure 6^ I inches on line B ^ inches straight down A R V R  K Stretch the front shoulder to meet the back. J and Draft lines L & dart. 2 (according to size of neck) on line A fr° m line Measure the distance given in the neck table dot 3 on line B and place dot 3Measure 2/% inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X5. A A on dot and front draft line E to dot 6 Measure the length of APlace letter measure down from draft line dot 2 and place dot 8 on 1 line 6. . 15. 28. of the width of Measure straight H and place dot 12the second dot from dot first 12 and place 23. See . Measure one inch from dot Measure }{. Draft lines I. the length of under arm measure darts straight down from in dot g ]£ of the width of both straight from dot 7 and place dot 0Place letter 14. up from the center of the dart to line 6 G and place dot 14. straight M down from the center of the from dot 3 and place dot 20from dot 20 and place dot 21on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Place letter 30. 10. Measure 2 inches down from dot 6 and place dot 9 line Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot g and draft out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4Measure )i inch more than the table gives (for locating dot 10) on 19. 18. /i inch ^rom the en ^ of" cloth. 24. Draft from dot X to dot 5 Draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5less Measure Bust number and Measure 12. 27. (curve up) on dot and F to dot 8 17. Measure the distance given in the front neck B l the curve) under dot 4. For dotted line. Measure 3^ of the arms eye measure down line A fr° m ine 7. mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot K in like manner. Draft line Draft line A H ' inches from the edge of cloth. table (on 2. Measure straight up from the center of the second dart to line and place dot 15. y2 26. Measure '4 of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B and place dot 59. line F from dot 8 and place dot 10the width of the first dart from dot 10 and place dot Measure 20. 22.PRINCESS— FRONT. 21. and place dot 7Measure 1 3 11. to meet 6 inches and N & H. 3. and place dot 2. 29. dot 13. i. (on the curve) under B X ' B and place dot 48. G ]4 H.
.
Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 915. A Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) under dot 3 on 1'ne B and place dot 3Measure 3A inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot X' 5. Measure 1 1^ inches on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5Measure the distance given in the table for the width of center back 9from dot 5 and place dot 63. PRINCESS— BACK. inch from the end of the cloth. J and K in like manner. Draft line A B '6 inches from the edge of cloth. 6. desired in the skirt then measure in from 5 about lines. V\ inches from the edge of the cloth. li inch fr° 1 1. 32. 6. Measure Place the straight up from the center of the 2nd dart and [ inch out and place dot 1523. MEASURE. V inch below line G Set dotted linei. to meet 6 inches straight down from and N & Draft lines L & V 2 M the center of the darts. Place the corner of square (or Skirt Rule) line on dot 5 the dot edge on dot ^ and extend 14. 1. i9 20. 12. mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14I. Place the corner of square on dot 7 19edge on dot 19 and con Waist Front tinue line Back 16 8 12 Under Neck Arm's Eye 16 Measure 6 yi inches on line B fr° m dot 3 and place dot 20Measure 1 3^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line 34. Measure Place the 5 inches straight 2. 7 dart to ine G and inch out and place dot 1422. 5 % inch less than the table gives for bust number and place dot (J. For low cut corsets draft a new line G one front shoulder to meet the back.PRINCESS— FRONT. Draft line B Yt. 1 P the length of skirt. Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) 3. Draft from dot 10. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 9 and draft line 16. 4. place dot 23 Measure 36. If fullness 5 is F the length of skirt. 6. Place letter C on dot X and draft line C to dot 3Measure 3^ of arms eye measure down line A fr° m line B and place 7. Q 1^ inch more than the proportunate shoulder measure and place dot 22Draft line R straight down from dot 22 to line D35. and place dot 7Measure the length of front measure down from dot 2 and place dot 13. 13. Draft lines 25. 1 8 and place dot 10 18. 2 inches up line R from line D and Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 an d place dot 2437. 30. Draft line A ' 2. Draft line E from dot 2 to dot 5 Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 10 and 17. (See dotted 10. 5. 27. Stretch the Place letter R on dot 24 and extend line S to dot 2239. 33. 36 24 15 of the width of both darts in from dot ^ and place dot and draft line E to dot 6on dot Measure one inch out from dot 7 and place dot 18Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19 Measure 14 Plaee letter A Place letter A on dot and draft line P the to dot 31. 28. . Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6 38. line B from line A and place dot 3Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 35. and place dot 12Measure one inch from dot Measure V" the distance of the second dart from dot 12 and place first H dot 13. Measure the length of back down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4Draft line D 4 inches straight out from dot 478. Measure Jjj the distance of the first dart from dot 10 and place dot 11. 24. on line 1. fr° m line B and place dot 2according to size of neck. Bust 29. Measure the length of under arm measure straight down from dot 6 12. Draft line m the end of cloth.) 1 1 or 6 inches and draft parallel with line F. dot 48. 26. Measure X the arms eye measure down line A fr° m D '' ne B and place dot 59. to dot 5Place the corner of square X on dot 5 and draft line straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5Measure out line D from dot 1 1 . 8 on line APlace letter A (curve up) on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 81 4. draft line H 3^ inch more than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot 1 \. Measure straight up from the center of the 21. G out 4 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4Measure 1 'X inches on line P from dot 7. to dot 7 % down from dot 4 and place dot mark on dot 5 (curve out) and draft line 7 F Measure the distance given in back neck table (on the curve) under dot 2 (according to size of neck) on line A fr° m H ne B and place dot 2Measure the distance given in the back neck table under dot 3 on 4.
17. Draft line 5. Hold the end of tape line on dot \\ and UNDER ARM FORM— BACK. Measure the distance given in the table to locate dot 12 straight dot 11 and S/% inch in and place dot 12Place the point of curve on dot \\ and draft line J to dot 12Place letter Q on dot 12 and draft to meet line D one inch in from Place the 10 inch — — dot 621. 21. Measure 3<£ inch out from dot 4 and place dot 5Measure inch more than the table gives for the width of under 9. to line line D — in the H an d place dot 2 D straight out beginning 9 inches from dot 2Measure inches out line D from dot 2 an d place dot 3Measure Jf inch more than the table gives for the width of side body from dot 3 and place dot 4Measure V% of the width of both darts in from dot 4 an d place dot 57. y 20.Measure 3 inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9'5Place letter A on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 916. line B and place dot 6line Place letter V on dot 6 the edge of curve on D one inch out from dot 3 and draft line to letter J on the curve. D straight out beginning 8 inches from dot XMeasure 12 inches from dot X and place dot 2 on line DMeasure on line D inch more than the table gives for the width 6. Measure the distance between dots 6 and 12 in the back and then 4 Draft line 5 H measure that distance from dot 3 to 9. F the length of skirt. 8. 2 3 24line Measure J^ inch out from dot 6 and place dot 13Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 13 and place dot 14. Measure 1 2 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 1018. . Place the corner of square on dot 6 the edge on dot 14 and the length of skirt. 3 and place dot 11. dot \\ and condots Place the corner of square on dot 10 the edge on tinue line 2 2. 8. Place letter A on dot 3 and draft line F to dot H. Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\. Use H Measure the distance then measure that distance 4. H. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot A 6 and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7Draft line B from dot 3 to dot 71 2. 20. 7 6 down from 19.. A I 2. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 713. 19. % y 10. 1 4. SIDE BODY. down from dot \\ and place dot 12on dot 3 the edge on dot 12 and draft draft line J. down between dots 5 and 8 m tne side body and line G fr° m line H and place dot X. the end Hold of tape line on line D half way between 2 and 3 and draft line J. Place the 7 inch mark on dot 3 and draft to the end of line AMeasure one inch out from 6 and place dot 71 1 . 1 I. line Measure Measure 1 y 2 inches in from dot 5 inches straight Place the corner of square the length of skirt. 21. 10. Use H Measure the distance straight down from dot 12 back— and then measure that distance down line G from 3. arm form from dot 4 and place dot 6. Place the corner of square on line D ' }( inches in from dot 2 the i7edge on dot 9 and continue line E the length of skirt. mark on dot 6 and draft to meet line K 6 in ches u P22. 18. draft G 25 Hold the end of tape line on dot 5 and draft line H. 20. the edge of cloth for line GDraft line V? inch from the end of cloth. F 22. Draft line from dot 2 to dot 5. 1 2. 13. 5. 3. the edge of cloth for line GDraft line Yz inch from the end of cloth. of under arm form out from dot 2 and place dot 3Measure straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4 on line H7. E 19. 1 16. line from dot 5 to dot 7)/ inches down line B fr° m dot 7 and place dot 82 Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line C to dot 8Measure 2 inch out from dot 4 ar>d place dot 9Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 9 an d place dot 10Draft line B Measure 1 y Place the ]/ mark on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 102 Place the corner of square on dot 5 the edge on dot 10 and extend the length of skirt.
.
Bust Arm's eye measure 3° ?4 >5 Waist Front . tne edge on dot 26 ar d draft line f? out about 20 inches. Extend line A 1 'J inches up from line B and place dot 25' Measure 5 inches straight out from dot 25 and place dot 26Measure \£ inch out line B fr° m line A and place dot 27Place the corner of square on dot 27. Draft line Draft line A B I > '2 2 ncn fr°m the edge of goods. Measure on line T from line C the length of back and place dot 28Place the corner of square on dot 28. inch less than the combined width of cenMeasure out line U from dot 28 terback side body and under arm forms and place dot 29Place the corner of square on dot 22. the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line Q the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to line D. Place letter B on new dot 2 and draft line C through dot 3 t0 line T. the edge on line T and draft line \J out 10 inches. Back Under arm . the long arm parallel with line X and Place letter ' place dot 30 the distance given in the table according to arm's eye measure. Measure 2 inches up line R from line D an d place dot 23Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 23 an d place dot 24inch in from dot Place letter D on dot 24 an d draft line S to meet line B 1 1 ' 1 s K ° n dot 24 and continue line S to the end of line Q.VIENNA WAIST. Neck Arm's Eye 16 8 12 16 . inches from the end of goods. MEASURE. beginning 6 inches from dot 5 Measure out line D from dot 5 the distance given in the table for bust num7 ber and place dot 6 Measure the length of under arm straight down from dot 6 an d place dot Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8Place letter H on dot 8 an d draft line P to dot 7 Measure Measure Measure y£ inch out from dot « inch in 2 an d place new dot 2from dot 5 and place new dot 5of the first 'j the distance dart out from dot 8 an d place new dot 8 Place letter Place letter Place letter Place letter on n ew dot 2 an d (J on new dot 5 an d H on dot 4 and draft H on new dot 8 an d H draft to new dot 5 draft to dot 4 to new dot 8 Measure first in meet line 5 inches below dot 8from dot 7 'he width of the second dart and l 2 the width of the draft to A / dart and place I new dot dot 7 Measure Draft line 1 j inches straight fr° down from 6 and draft to dot 9 place dot 9 E m 6 to 9 Place letter A on new dot 7 an d Measure 6 l/ inches out line B from dot 3 an d place dot 202 Measure 3_j^ inches straight down from dot 20 an d place dot 21Place letter A on dot 3. ' Measure the distance given in the front neck table (on the curve) under doc 2 from line B on line A and place dot 2Measure the distance given in the front neck table under dot 3 on line B from line A and place dot 3Measure down line A * rom line B 3 of arm's eye measure and place dot 4 /i Measure down line A from line B }A arm's eye measure and place dot 5Place the corner ot square on dot 5 an d draft line D straight out.
d will be paid for the conviction of any one infringing on any of onr copyrights. .SEAMLESS WAIST. Fifty ($50 00) dollars Rewa.
0) .
Draft the darts so that the point meets one lining dot inch above line G. Place letter C on new dot 2 and draft line C extending 1 ^£ is Take a — inches above dot 3 [See diagram. BACK. inch straight in from dot 23 aI>d place dot 24. to the waist line from dot ^ and draft Omit darts and cut 6 inches below the waist line. Back  17 Under Arm Height of Shoulder Width of Back 9 6 '5 '9 j/(. Place letter A on dot 3. Now take the difference between 36 (the measure that you are using) and 42 2 Take /i of 6. Bust 42 z5 Waist Front 17 . for a very full bust and narrow The changes dotted lines show the ordinary drafting. line Q. Neck Arm's Eye For a regular form the width of the back should be This width of back is 6 inches. dart (as given in the table) from dot 10 and place Measure straight up from the center of the dart and place dot 12 on darts. Draft lines Place letter H C and I the same as other on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3 Measure 6*4 inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20Measure I r/ inches straight down from dot 20 ano place dot 21. would be 4. which (the actual measure) which you will find to be 6. on dot 24 and extend line S to the end of line Q. Measure I j4 inches straight up from dot 22 and draft the shoulder from the end of line C V\ inch longer than the proportionate shoulder measure and baste a bastings after ^ inch dart in the center of the shoulder and remove the is the shoulder stitched. Draft draft line the Berlin to dot back and add 14 2 ]4 inches to the waist line from dot 8 and H Cut 6 inches below the waist line.] Also baste a I inch dart in the arm's eye [see diagram] and remove the basting after stitching. the heavy lines showing the MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. indicating that the back ure. [See diagram.] inch out from dot 8. Now use a 46 bust measure and a 25 waist measure in drafting the front. of the bust measure. Measure 1 y^ inches up from dot 2 ° n line A and 1 inch straight out and place new dot 2. and add to the regular measure 42— which would make 46. and draft " line Q j4 inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure.] In locating the darts measure from the 5. FOR VERY FULL FORM. C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. This diagram shows the changes necessary back. for a 36 bust meas36 bust measure and a 25 waist measure for drafting the back. Draft line R i i Measure Measure inch up line Place letter Place letter the end of line Q to line Dfrom line D an d place dot 23. / x 2 A about at 5 down. FRONT. [See diagram.] Place dot dot 4.Measure the width of dot 1. locating dot 10. Draft a plain front and add 4 inches line E to dot 6. curved line in. . line Plate letter mark on dot X and an d continue the curved inches H on dot X draft to line new X Y inch straight in Place the 5 from inch dot 2. meeting Take alj^ inch dart in the [See diagram. the edge of curve on dot 21. straight down from R K SAILOR BLOUSE For Ladies or Children.
the edge on dot 2. line B from line and place dot 2. J and R\ Cut on lines H and I. Allow seams on D. C °ut line Measure y. <ot« m\ A and B l inch from the edge and end of cloth. Q. and draft line inches less than the hand measure. 6. inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow trom dor \ on line A and place dot 7Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7Measure I \ 2 inches on line A h" om dot 7 and place dot 8the measure around the arm below the shoulder inch more than Measure out from dot 8 and place dot 9"lace letter ° n dot 7 and draft line F t0 dot 9 y y K i + I 10 I . from dot 1 H and place dot 13. the measure around the Measure shoulder on line inch more than \i the measure around the arm below the F from dot less 9 and place dot 10 Measure line I inch than the measure around the arm below the shoulder on place dot \\. inches on line A from line B and place dot 3 ^ Place the corner of square on dot 3. A Measure )A the hand measure on line B from line A and place dot 2Measure y inches on line A fr° m H ne B and place dot 3Place the corner of square on dot 3. Place the 3^ inches straight down from down dot 10 and place dot 12. 2 ! Draft line from dot 13 extending 2 inches below dot 6. F fr° m dot 1 8 and Measure inch straight Measure B. Measure I to wrist on line A fro'" 1 J^ inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. t0 dot Place the point of curve on dot Place letter 6 and draft line line K [ 14 (J R on dot 14 and continue lines K t0 he end of line C. Draft lines A and B Measure Measure 2 T / l I 2 the hand measure out V\ inch from the end and edge of goods. Measure straight out 2 inches less than the measure around the arm below the elbow from dot 5 and place dot 6. Place letter F on dot 12 and draft line \ to dot 13. UNDER PART. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 3 oo SLEEVE MEASURE. Shoulder to Elbow Elbow to Wrist Around Arm below Shoulder Around Arm below Elbow . Place letter on dot 5 and draft line less D to dot 3.. the edge on dot 2. inch more than the measure from elbow B and place dot 4. Measure up line A 4's inches from dot 4 and place dot 7Place letter than the measure from shoulder to elbow H on dot 5 and draft line li E to dot 7. 10 8 Around Hand . Measure 2 inch straight in from the end of line J and place dot 14. E. and draft line C 2 inch more than ^i of hand measure from dot 3Measure y? inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A from line B and place dot 4Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5the measure around the arm below the elbow Measure 2 inch more than Draft lines 1 ' I 1  y y straight from dot 5 and place dot 6. FRENCH SLEEVE. Measure \ l {. Measure 5 inches from dot 7 on ne A and place dot 8 Draft line F straight out from dot 8less Measure out line F fr° m dot 8 • inch arm below the shoulder and place dot 9 than > _. A y. point of curve on line F F inch in from dot 9 and draft line Q to dot 7Place the to dot X J l point of curve on line • inch out from dot 9 and draft line H 12.
F A from dot 7—5 straight out from dot 8. Place letter H to the G and H end ot line (JCut on lines C and f. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft from dot 7 ^2 inches and place dot 8Measure up line A less than V. F \ * inches out from dot 9 and draft to dot 11. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line D to 1 inches less than the measure Measure up line A from dot 4— ""° m sh °U ' der ' to elbow and place dot 7. inch less than . inches and P lace dot 8  . % E to dot 7. Draft lines A C and line Measure out Measure up Draft line line B H inch from the ed g e and end of cloth B from line A '.«. G and H  Cut on lines C and F. top over aoout 3 the sleeve smooth on the table. I in G Sate lineH the X H A point of the curve on line . J "Measure up wrist line A of hand measure from dot 3. This sleeve is gathered at Now and run in down from dot 5 THE PRATT SLEEVE. .' 4 Draft line G fr° m dot 9 to dot 6draft line G on dot 6 and Allow seams on lines D. E. the hand measure and place inches and place dot 3. the measure around Measure out line F from dot 8 below shoulder and place dot 9. Place etter H on dot 5 and draft line Measure up Draft line line arm inch less than >. inch more than the measure from elbow from line B % and place dot 4. . more than > 3 ot the measure elbow and place dot 6around the arm below dot 3.Add measure. „ _ . G and fl UNDER PART OF SLEEVE. . . Shoulder to Elbow below Shoulder below Elbow  l * "aL for seams on lines D) E.' inch more than the measure from elbow to Measure Measure 2 inches straight out from dot straight 4 and out from dot the 5 1 % inches place dot 5. Measure up line A dot 2 and draft the square on dot 3. line E to dot 7. J and K Cut on lines C. % W A Place . Draft lines inch from the edge and end of cloth A and B hand measure and place dot 2. to the elbow about 2 inches. dot 10 and place dot \\ Measure 3 inches straight down from inches in from dot 9 and draft line point of the curve on line F * Place the > . the measure around urn Measure straight out from dot 8 % inch dot 9. below shoulder and place draft line F to dot g. Elbo(V to Wrist 10 ' Around Arm Around Arm Around Hand ' ° For Cloak or Coat. inches from the elbow up and from the hand up inches in space together at the elbow. and place dot 5. told the Lay Jotted lines).. to dot 2 on dot 6 and draft line K Allow for seams on lines D.round . . . Measure out line B from line A V2 the from line B % inches and place dot 3. Place letter K on dot 7 and and draft line G '° d °t 9. una y inch to the hand 2 inch to the first arm and second measure.. the edge on % • Place the corner of line C to 1 . ' } from dot 2 from Measure up line u rist and place dot 4 to dot 3line A B '.. less than the measure around arm Measure out line F from dot 8 % inches below shoulder and place dot 10. Sti the elbow (or the fullness can be removed. line D to dot 3 Place letter G on dot 5 and draft inches less than the measure from shoulder Measure up line A from dot 44 % to elbow and place dot 7. on dot 6 Place letter line H to the end of inch above dot 6 and draft on line Q letter . E. taking up about 2 bring the fullness come together and baste up and See that dots 5 a gathering thread. Place letter Place letter on Jot 11 and draft line J to dot b. A from line B ' dot 2. . Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 4 the measure around arm less than Measure straight out from dot 5 '2 inch below elbow and place dot 6. SLEEVE MEASURE.
is ca «N .
^ ) 1 place dot 9. Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 7 line E to dot 5. line the hand measure on l. sleeve around the arm below the elbow Measure \ inches more than * the measure and P . I and J. G on dot 6 and draft line J to lines _ <n Allow seams on D. sleeve) on line A fr° m line B and A and B % inch from edge and end of cloth % inch more than % A and of to length TABLE. leeve) on line A of 9% 7 J4 8 . Draft lines A Measure line A and place dot Length of Sleeve % edge and end of goods. dot 2. Draft line F . Place letter G on dot 5 and draft (Jess the distance given m the distance from shoulder to elbow Measure the and place dot 7.CHILD'S Draft lines SLEEVE—TOP.» *• **> F 1« W^of Measure the curve on line arm below —* .. Length of Sleeve 1314 . from dot 12 to dot 6. the measure around the Measure % inches more than ]/ 2 c u„.. E. 2 (according Measure the distance given in the table from line B and place dot 2. the shoulder on line F from dot 12 straight down from inch in from dot 10 and draft line G to dot 8 Place letter T Draft line I Place letter on dot 10 and draft line H to dot \i.ne B horn Measure d Pla (according Me asureShe distance given in the table under dot 3 place dot 3. from dot 4 table under dot 7) on line A and place dot 8. 1 C from dot 2 to dot 3. TABLE. UNDER PART. . Shoulder to Elbow Elbow to Wrist Around Arm below Shoulder Around Arm below Elbow Around Hand • under do.ace dot 6straight from dot 5 line D to dot 3. straight out from dot 9. G and H. and V? inch from around the hand on line inch more than «4 the measure B B horn 1. 13 .u Pr arm belou shoulder " 1 KIT? VZL^lrt^t ^ £l£i *. Cut on lines C. Place letter G on dot 8 and draft dot 7 on lme A from dot 7 and inch more than the table gives tor Measure . 14 5 16 7 18I19 zc i)<6 Dot 2 Dot 4 1* ^ *% H 3^ 'X to length Dot 6 MEASURE FOR PRACTICE 8 YEARS.516 17n 1920 Dot 3 Dot 5 *% 3 lU 4 VA *X »# Dot? 1' DoTl2~ Draft line # from elbow to wrist on line A Measure 1 inch more than the measure place dot 4line R and u r under dot 5 (according to length ot Measure the distance given in the table straight from dot 4 and place dot 5. 2 y 8 7 .
—— —
inch
Place the corner of square on dot 2, the edge l less than 2 the hand measure.
on dot 1
and
draft line
Q
2 y
/
Measure
line
^
inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line
A
from
B
an d place dot 3.
the distance given in the table under dot
Measure
4
(according to length of
sleeve) straight from dot
3 and
place dot 4straight
dot
Measure y, the measure around the arm below the elbow 4 and place dot 5.
out
from
Place letter JJ on dot
4 and
draft line
D
to
to dot 2.
Measure the distance from shoulder
table
elbow
less
the distance given in the
under dot 6 (according
to length
of arm) on
line
A
from dot
3 and
place
dot 6.
Place letter JJ on dot
6 and
draft
line
E
to dot 4
Measure the distance between dots 6 and 12 in the upper part of sleeve and then measure that distance on line A from dot 3 and place dot 7
Measure 2 the measure around 7 and place dot 8.
Place letter
y
the
arm below shoulder
straight out
from dot
K
on dot 6 and
draft line
F
to dot 8
Draft line
G
from dot 8
dot
to dot 5
Place letter
M on
5 and
D. E,
draft line
H
to the
end of
lines
line
(J
Allow seams on
lines
G
and H
Cut on
C and
F.
SHIRTWAIST SLEEVE.
Draft line
A
v
i
inch from edge of goods.
Draft line B straight out from line around the arm below the shoulder.
A
6 inches
more than
the measure
Place dot 2 in the centre of line B.
Measure straight out from dot 2 Vi inch less than yl of hand measure and place dot 3. Measure straight in from dot 2 % inch less than of hand measure
^
and place dot 4. Measure up line sleeve and place dot
Draft line
Draft line Draft line
A
5.
from
line
B
l /i
l
inches less than the length of
C from dot 4
to dot 5.
D
E
straight out
from dot 5 the same length as
line
line B.
from the end of
line
D
5
to dot 3
Measure down Measure
SLEEVE MEASURE.
Shoulder to Elbow
14 10

C from dot 5
—
inches less than the measure from
shoulder to elbow, and place dot 6straight out
from dot 6 one inch and place dot
from the end of line D to elbow and place dot 8.
7less
Measure down line measure from shoulder
E
5
inches
thaD the
Measure
straight in
from dot 8 one inch and place dot
9.
Elbow
to Wrist
Around Arm below Shoulder Around Arm below Elbow
Around Hand
11
10
8
R on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 5. Place letter U on dot 7 and extend line F to dot 4. Reverse the curve and draft line G from the end of line D to dots 9 and 3. Measure in from the end of line D i of the measure around the arm below shoulder and place dot 10. Measure straight up from dot 10 }{ the measure around arm below shoulder and place dot H.
Place letter
'
l
T on the end of line D and draft line H to dot 11. Measuie out line D from dot % inch more than y& the distance between dots 5 and 10 and place dot 12. Hold end of tape line on dot 12 and draft a curved line from dot 11
Place letter
5—
to dot 5.
CLOAK NO.
Draft
line
i
A
6}4 inches from
line
the edge of goods.
Draft line
in
B
I
Vz
inches from the end of goods.
table
Measure
line
the
distance given
the
neck
unde dot 2 on
A
from
B
and piace dot 2
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
MEASURE.
Bust.
36
24 14 16
8
Waist Front
Back
.
Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye
12 16
CLOAK NO.
Draft line
2.
Draft line
in the
x B ' /l inches neck table under
A A
3 inches
from the edge of goods.
from the end of goods. fr° line dot 2 on l' n e
m
B
Measure the distance given and place dot 2.
NECK TABLE.
Dot 2
Up .
Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 9 and place dot 16. Place letter A ° n dot 3. y Q '4 inch Draft line Measure Measure 1 R straight down from dot V inches up line R from 2 inch straight in from dot 22 line to l' ne D. Place the corner of square on dot 9. Draft lines T and JJ to meet 4 inches below dot 2. Draft line 5. Place letter R P 24 and Measure Draft line 2 inches straight in extend line S to dot 22. A B 3 ' inches from the edge of cloth. Turn the curve over and draft line I from dot 1 1 to dot 14. Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line C to dot 3 (use the round Measure distance edge). 6. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot Draft line dot 2. on dot 27 and draft line meet the edge of goods 7 inches down.10 of the waist measure on line beginning 3 F fr° m dot 8 and place dot 10. Draft lines J and R to meet 1 2 inches below the center of the dart. the edge of curve on line D and C on dot S to dot No. Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X. the edge on dot an d draft line Q out X 3 inches. Measure I. then measure that distance on line between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add y2 G from dot 4 and place dot 14.Measure line I inch more than the table gives for the distance of bust number on dot D from dot 5 and place dot 9. from the end of line B and place dot 27. the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22. Measure 2 inch out from dot 6 and place dot X. inch. \2 Measure inch ess than the length of under arm straight l down from 6 and place dot 7. Measure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8. on dot 24. Place the j£ mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. }jf to V Place letter from dot 26 to dot 27. draft line 1 Place letter 23 and place dot 24. Add dot ' \2 inch to the width of the second dart and measure that distance from place dot the 10 and H. the edge on dot 6 and measure up the length of under arm measure and place new dot 6. l /2 inches from the end of cloth. Measuure 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 17. 2 °n line A and place NECK TABLE. Place letter H °n dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7. Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20. 5. Place the corner of square on dot 4. Place letter A on dot 9 and draft line flj to dot 17. CLOAK NO. inches from dot 4. Measure Jj£ inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25. V Measure '4 inch less than the width of the first dart in from dot 7 on line p and place dot 9. Measure 2 2 inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. D and place dot 23. Dot 2 . Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches below line D. Measure y^ inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26.
COSTUME ELEGANT.00 24.00 The same without Albums 20. II.REINACH'S LIST OF IMPORTED JOURNALS FOR DRESSMAKING Price per Price per Year 6 months LA MODK ARTISTIQUE With Albums IS 00 2 4. II.00 12. CHIC PARISIEN. . CHIC PARISIEN. I.00 LE LUXE WIENER CHIC COSTUME ELEGANT. LE GOUT PARISIEN I.
Draft lines A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods.CLOAK BACK. Bust Waist Front  36 22 Back 14 16 8 Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye 12 16 . line A © Dot 2 MEASURE. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on from line B and place dot 2NECK TABLE.
Measure 1 4 A ^ Measure Place 3 inches straight out the point of curve on dot from dot ^ and place dot 8. 2 and draft line E to dot 8 (use the round Place the X point of curve on dot 8 and continue line E to dot 4. line Measure place dot 2. dot 2. dot 3.SAILOR COLLAR. Measure zj& inches straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6. Place letter V on dot 6 and extend line D to inches down from dot 2 on line A and place dot 7. distance given in the front line 4 and place dot 4. of the neck measure on' line Measure ]£. 2 inches up from line BExtend line Measure 2 inches straight out from the end of line A A A from the end of Measure 3 inches down line A from dot 2 and place dot 5. . to dot 2. COAT COLLAR. Draft lines A 1 and B ^ inch from the edge and end of goods. This collar MEDICI COLLAR. 1 l 2 inches straight up from the end / F and end of line E. Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 6dot 3. Measure 2 inches out line C from line from the end of line C to the end of line Draft line from line C and place dot 4. place dot 3. draft line G from the end of line F to the will be no seam. the edge on dot corner of square on the junction of lines Place the and draft line C out 6}4 inches. Draft lines and B )i inch from the edge and end of goods. inch more than }4 of neck measure on A from line B and Measure 3 inches on line B from line A and place dot 3. ot line on curve. Measure j4 inch on line A from dot 2 and place straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. extending to hue G. Draft line F 5 Place letter F inches straight out from dot 5. Place line C on the fold of goods and there makes a very nice square or round yoke. and B. and draft line C to dot 3. F on dot 4 and draft line F letter F on dot 3 and draft line G collars are drafted to dot 2 to the junction ot lines A and B These on the right bias of the goods. Measure 2 inches Draft line D 3 */i 2 from dot 2 to dot 5. Measure Measure inches out line inches straight B from dot 3 and place dot 6 dot % down from draft line 6 and place dot 7 HZ Place letter Place letter M 1 on dot 5 and draft line dot N on 7 and E to dot 7F to dot 3. Place letter 6 on dot 3 and draft line C dot 4. from line B and place dot 5. Draft line Draft line A B i ' ncn from the edge of goods. given in the front 5 inches from the end of goods. STANDING COLLAR. A 7 2^ *~ Measure 4 inches on Place letter F on dot line B from dot 3 and place dot 4. Draft line inches straight out from the end of line Aand place dot 3. Measure ]/ the neck measure on line A from line B and place 2 Measure 4 inches on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3. line ADraft line B lH inches straight out from place dot Measure 2 inches on line B from line A and Draft line 2. Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line D through and draft line E out +*4 inches Place the edge of square even with line C line (J. inch on line 1 C 3 3 A A D B Measure D Draft line Place Place letter E from dot 3 to dot 4. distance from S 2 Measure the line B and Measure the from line A and neck table under dot 2 on neck table under dot 3 on line A B place dot 2. 2 A inch more than y the neck measure.
COAT NO. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on from line B and place dot 2. 6. i. Draft lines 2. Dot 2 . line A NECK TABLE. A and B '4 inch from the edges and end of cloth. BACK.
Measure 1 3^ inch straight out from dot 7 and place dot 18. Place letter 32Place letter K on dot 24 and draft to the end of line Q. I z. 19. Place the l 2 mark on dot 3 and draft line F to dot I I I I / FRONT. Measure 3/^ inches in from dot 2 and place dot 8. 8. Back 24. 3. Measure 6 V inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20. 23line V 2 Place letter 5 mark on dot 7 and draft line P to dot 19. to 36 24 75 16 8 i 22. line less than y^ of the neck measure on B from A and 5. 27. Measure the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side body and 3. Draft lines J and K straight down from dots 10 and I I. — — place dot 6. Measure 3^ inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10. * rorn dot Place the corner of square j£ ' nc ^ 2 inches . Draft line A 4 inches from the edge of cloth. I I. Draft straight in to the edge of cloth from dot 2. 33The Front can be finished any style desired. . 30. then measure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4. Place letter U on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3. and draft line F to dot 8. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm and place dot 7. Place letter U on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2. m 2 and draft to meet down. Measure \A inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 15. Measure 3 inches from dot 4 and place dot 2. '314. of neck measure inch less than X Measure A on line A from line line B and place dot 2. Measure Place the 5 inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19. 14. UNDER ARM. 1 2. 4. 72 y the arm's eye measure on line line B and place straight out dot 5. Place letter Z on dot 14 and draft line I to dot II. 2 Measure 1 j/ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21. under arm straight down from 6 and )/* inch in and place dot 7. 6. See dotted lines. / MEASURE. 1 1. Measure Measure 3/£ of arm's eye measure on line A from A from draft line B and place dot 4. 6. '3Meaaure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot I. Measure down line A from dot 2 the length of front and place dot 8. place dot 3. l G on line C /y inch out from dot 2 and draft meet A inches above dot 8. 17. Measure \4 inch 4. mark on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 9. 910. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of" curve on dot 21 and draft line Q Q to l'ne D. Measure the width of 'he under arm straight out from dot 4 and 5.. z line A 16 26. Bust Waist Front 21. from as given in the table Measure the width of the under arm dot 2 and place dot 3. Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye . curve up Place letter A on dot 7 Measure 110 of the waist measure on line F from dot 8 and place — — dot 10. 2. 18. Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure 1 '? inches up line R frcm line D and place dot 23. 28. For long shoulder extend line Q x 2 inch. 2 j. Place the x 2 mark on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 14. yi inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. 7. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7. Place the corner of square on dot 5 and line D beginning 6 inches from dot 5. Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line E to dot 6. / . 20. Measure the distance of the Bust number on Measure the length ot line D from dot dot 5 and place dot 6. Draft line R straight down frjm the end of line 29. 10 and place dot Measure the distance from dot 8 to the center of the dart and then 1 6. 1. 9. Measure 3^ inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24. 8. 1 2. Measure \i 1 inch less than the combined width of both darts from dot 1.. measure that distance straight out from dot 4 and place dot 14. Draft line B Vi inch from the end of cloth. 3«on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6. Place the < . 10.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line and place dot 2' Draft lines A from line NECK TABLE. B A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods.CLOAK NO. Dot 2 . 7— BACK.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on and place dot 2Draft line Draft line A B line A fr° m me ' B NECK TABLE Dot 2 B 3 . 4 inches from the edge of cloth. inches from the end of cloth. 7— FRONT.CLOAK NO. 1 ' /t.
._. Y\ inch from the edge and end in the neck table under dot 2 on 'ine A fr° m line NECK TABLE....B 3 ETON BACK. '6 Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye 8 12 ' ° .. Dot 2 MEASURE. Bust Waist Front   36 24 . Draft linesA and B B Measure the distance given and place dot 2 of cloth.. 15 Back .
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot and place dot 2 Draft line 2 on line A from hne NECK TABLE. C to 3 L Tuse the round t .. the edge of curve on line D and draft 1 R 22 y inches on line from from dot R line D line S to new K 2 Measure Measure Place dot 27Draft line 3 % 2 y Q letter on dot 24 and continue line S to dot 22inches straight in from dot 2 and place dot 27. B inch from the end of cloth. Measure inch toward line from dot 15 and place dot 16. Place letter Rand place dot 23inch straight in 1 23 and place dot 24Place letter C on dot 24. the edge on dot Place the corner of square on dot X F on line F from dot 8 and place dot 10inch to the width of the second dart and measure that distance on line hom dot 10 and place dot H. inch then measure that distance on line G from dot 4 and place dot 14. Measure inch out from dot 2 and place dot 25 Measure inch in from dot 2 and place dot 26Draft lines T and to meet 4 inches below dot 2Place the point of curve on dot 25 and draft line to dot (use the round • H ^ A K % % U C 3 v ) Measure by. Measure y. the edge on dot 6 and measure up the arm and place new dot 6Place letter A on new dot 6 and draft to meet line E 3 inches' below line D Place the corner of square on dot and draft line G out 3 4. I inch above from dot 26 to the end of line VFinish as desired below the waist line. Dot 2 Neck Size Dot 3 Measure l H '* *A 2 % \*U A 1% l i 10 13 \i H 2 and 2 3/ ^A 3 the distance given in the neck table under dot A and place dot 3Place the point ot curve on dot draft line 3 on dot A )% line R from l line edge). Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 15. Measure inch less than the width of the first dart in from dot 7 and place % A on dot 9 and draft line E to dot X beginning at the point of r length ot under inches beginning 3 inches from dot 4. Measure one tenth of the waist measure 9. Add % edge Measure the distance between dot 8 and the center of the dart and add U. Place the j£ mark on dot 10 and draft line to dot 14. inches straight in from dot 8 and place dot 28 on dot 27 and draft line to dot beginning U 28. Draft line J from dot 10 to dot 16. inch out line D from dot 6 and plrce dot XMeasure the length of front on line A from dot 2 and place dot 8Place letter H on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 7. Turn the curve over and draft line from dot 1 to dot I 1 14. Measure place dot 7 y 2 inch less than under arm length straight down from dot R and dot 9Place letter curve. the edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line less than the proportionate length of shoulder and place dot 22Draft line straight down from dot to line Q Yl inch Measure Measure dot 6. V For Bolero Jacket follow dotted lines. GIRL'S CLOAK Draft line A 2% R 1 inches from the edge of cloth. inches on line B from dot 3 and place dot 20 Measure 2^ inches straight down from dot 20 and place dot 21 Place letter A on dot 3. Draft line parallel with line J.
tne e dge of curve on dot 21. inches down. beginning 4 inches from dot 5 number on line D fr° m dot 5 and place dot (J. . Measure 2 inch less than the under arm measure straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Measure the length of front on line A fr°m dot 2 an d place dot 8Measure inch more than the table gives for bust y Draft line p I from dot 8 to dot 7 Measure inch more than the table gives for front waist from dot •)• 8 on '> ne F and place dot Place the \2 mark on dot 9 and draft line E t0 dot 8. MEASURE. 5 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17to dot 17Place the 2 mark on dot 9 and draft line 1 2 y inches out from dot 9 and V H Measure 6 A inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 20Measure ij^ inches straight down from dot 20 an d place dot 21Place letter A on dot 3. Measure Measure place dot 16. Dot 2 8 Years. and draft inch less line Q ^2 than the proportionate shoulder measure. in the table Measue the distance given and place dot 2 under dot 2 down line A fr° m '' ne B NECK TABLE. 10 13 . Waist Front 28 .. ' line Measure 2 inch more than B and place dot 5 y ^ the arm s eye measure down line A from Draft line D 1 straight out. Measure I inch in on line B fr° m line A and place dot 25Place the point of curve on line C 2 inches below dot 2 and draft line extending inch above dot 25Place the point of curve on the end of line T and draft to meet the edge goods 3 y.. Bust. Draft lines A and B • inch from the edge and end of goods. 25 9^2 1 1 Back Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye 2 y i/j" 5 . end of line Q to line Di D and place dot 231 inch straight in from dot 23 and place dot 24Place letter C on dot 24 and draft line S to dot 6Place letter on dot 24 and extend line S to the end of line Q. Draft line straight R down from the Measure Measure I inch up line R from line K T of ^ BACK.
and measure up from dot 3 the length of the under arm measure and place dot 7. Measure 6]4 inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9. Place letter S on dot 2 and draft E to dot 9. 2. Place letter Z on dot 15 and draft to the end of line F. . the edge on dot 6. UNDER ARM. Measure one inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Place letter Place Back Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye 4^ 10 12 Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot G on dot 7 and draft line B to dot 3. Measure the length of back measure down line A from line B and place Place the point of curve dot 4. Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7. Place letter T on dot 9 and draft to dot II.^ [2 § J* Measure 3^ inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3. y2 inch less than j^ of neck measure on line A and B on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. B from line A and B 3^ inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 6 and place dot 14. Measure J^ inch less than }i of waist measure on line D from dot 2 and place dot 3. and draft line J to dot 13. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. and draft inch line H % than the proportionate shoulder measure and place dot l Measure /± of arms eye measure straight down from dot less I I. Measure 2 inches on line D from dot 14 and place dot 2. Bust 6 YRS. I I and place dot 12. Measure t/i inch down line A from line B and place dot 2. Place letter D on dot Place letter F on dot 6 and draft line K to dot 13. JO 52 . Measure 5%" inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot Place letter G on dot 3 and draft line F to dot II. Measure one inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10. JO Measure % of waist measure from dot 5 and place dot meet line Draft line E from dot Place letter 2 to dot 5. the distance between dots 2 and 3 straight out from dot 4 and Waist Front 8^ 11 Place the corner of square on dot 3. Measure one inch in from dot 2 and place dot 8. the edge of curve on dot 10. Measure 51^ inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. Draft line D straight out from dot 4. 26 24 Measure place dot 6. II. MEASURE. Measure place dot 3. 1 1 I I 15. Measure the distance between dot 6 and 13 in the back and then meas ure that distance straight up from dot 2 and place dot 4.CHILD'S Draft lines COAT— BACK. Place letter A on dot 3. draft line F to N on dot 5 and A 5 % inches below dot 4. Measure one inch on line D from dot 4 and place dot 5. Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot Place letter Q on dot 6 and draft line G to dot 15. 6.
the edge of curve on dot and draft 1 I I I I . dot 13. place dot 14. line B and place dot B from line 2.. Waist Front . point of curve on dot 12 and draft line $ to dot 6. dot 9 to the edge of Place letter S on dot 7 and draft line to dot 9. Measure one inch more than y± of Bust measure on line F from dot 5 and place dot 7. Hold end goods. Place letter G on dot Measure Measure 2^ 5 6 and draft line E to dot 7. ot the draft line C to dot 2. Measure the length place dot 5. Place letter Place letter Q on dot 13 and R on dot 14 and the junction ot line G and the edge Back 11 of goods. CHILD'S CLOAK FRONT. R from line D and place dot 12. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot and place dot Place letter A on dot 3. Draft line A 3 1 Draft line B * 2 J^ inches from the edge of goods. of tape line on dot 3 and draft line H from Measure 6}i inches from dot 3 on line B and place dot 10. 24 8 i/ A Draft from dot 2 to dot 13. eye measure on line A from line line B and place dot 4. Measure y^ of the Bust measure on line D from dot 4 and place dot 6. under arm measure down A from dot 4 and Draft line F straight out from dot 5. V? inches straight down from G dot 8 and place dot 9. Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye 424 10 12 . inch from the end of goods. line Q V± inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. inches straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8. the end of line Q to line D. K on dot 12 and continue line $ to the end of line Q. inches straight in from the junction of lines A and B and place line Draft line R straight Place the Place letter down from Measure y± inch up MEASURE Bust Measure 6 YRS. line A and Place letter • B on dot 3 and arm's ot the Measure '. ' Measure y£ of the neck measure down line A from Measure 2 inch less than y^ of neck measure on place dot 3. 3 26 Measure 2 % inches straight in from dot draft to dot draft to 4 and 14. Draft line D straight out beginning 4 inches from line dot 4.
the edge on dot 5. Measure )A inch more than y^ the combined width of centerback. from dot 2 on N and place dot 5 dot 4» Place the corner of square on dot 4. 5 inches from the end of cloth. line side bodv as given in the table.UNDER ARM. 3^ 'nch below dot 3line Place letter Q on dot 2 and draft line to the A Draft from the end of line A end of K in the back. Dot 2 . and measure up from '4 inch less than the under arm measure and place dot 6Place letter Place the M on dot 6 and draft line B to dot 4line X yi 5 l point of the curve Measure on dot 2 and draft inch out from dot 4 and place dot 7 C to dot 6 Measure inches straight down from draft line dot 7 and place dot 8 Place letter R on dot 4 and E to dot 8 CAPES Draft line Draft line A B ' inch from the edge of cloth. in the Measure the distance given neck table under dot 2 on line A from line B and place dot 2 NECK TABLE. and under arm form on line D from dot 3 and place dot 4Measure the width of under arm form. Place the long arm of square on line A N D (in the back) the short arm on doi 12 and draft line N straight from dot 12line Measure Measure 3 inches 3 from dot 12 on and place dot 2 inches from dot 6 on line and place dot 3extending.
the edge on dot 10 and continue Place letter D X point of the curve. will make seam in the center of the back only. the Measure io 1^ inches on line A from dot 2 and place dot 4Measure 3^ inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5 3 Measure Place the l/% inch straight in from dot 5 and place dot 6point of curve on dot 6 and draft line C to d6t 2.— CIRCULAR CAPE The goods neck measure and length are are all the measures that are necessary. line H on the end of D and draft to dot 4 .12 1 on dot 5 and continue line C to dot 3inches on line A from dot 2 and place dot inch from dot 3 on line B and place dot 7 A 6 7 inches on line straight B from dot 7 and place dot 8place dot 9line Measure 8 inches Place letter to the yi down from dot 8 and K G G on dot 7. 'C Measure l/± inch less than 2 of neck measure on line A from line B and place dot Measure j£ inch less than ){ of neck measure on line B from and place dot 3Measure 3^4 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4 line A Measure 6 inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot Place letter D on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 5Place letter 5 Measure Measure Measure 14. It you wish the cape and to the goods are not in the place wide enough this cut a without a seam then use the selvedge of the fold. CAPUCHIN HOOD. Draft lines A and B '2 inch from edge and end of cloth. Measure 10 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot on dot 6 and l /> inches on line A draft to dot 3 8 on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 8Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 9 and place dot 10Place letter Place the 8 inch line H 9 mark (on the curve) on dot to the 8. a It the wide the enough fold to cut without that seam then fold the goods and measure Place dot up the length you wish the cape and place dot 2Stick a pjn through at 3 /i l °f tne neck measure from dot 2line the end of the tape and in dot 3 an d draft a curved line beginning line. Allow for seam in cutting out. Place letter Measure 5 B from dot 3 and place dot T. than Measure line 3^ less % the neck measure on line A and from B and place dot Measure l neck measure on line B from line A and place dot /i. the edge of curve on dot 9 and draft D mark on the curve. Draft lines A and B inch 2 % inch from edge and end of goods. Measure ^ inch straight in from the end of line D and place dot 10 Place letter Place letter on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 3j4 inches up. dot 2the goods Without removing the pin or tape the length that measure draft a down curved the fold of line. on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 10 RED RIDING HOOD.
and place dot 2more than the sLrt length on line A from dot 2.own l inch more than the Measure 4 Vi inches out line B from line A and place dot 7Measure ti inch straight down from dot 7 and place dot fc. _jSi 1 Use Draft line the fold of goods for line A'2 inch from the end of goods. B Measure Measure dot 3. FRONT. r rom the end Place the end of tape line on dot 2 and uraft a curved line % K " of line H to meet line J. and place dot 51 Measure z /. inches 3 $4 1 inch on line A» rrom line B. *" .inches from dot 3. Use the Measure Measure place dot 3fold of goods for line A Draft line 1 B % inch from the en d of goods out 15 inches. from dot 4. Measure inches more than j4 of length on line E.DIVIDED BICYCLE SKIRT. ]/ inches down the fold of goods from line B and place dot 2. Measure 1 5 Measure oj^ inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 10Place letter K on dot 9 and draft line 6 to dot 10Place letter S on dot 10 and continue line G t0 dot 62 Place the corner of square on dot 5» the edge on dot 9> and draft line H length from dot 9inches more than }4 the skirt Place the end of tape line on the junction of lines A and B and draft curved line J from the end of line F to meet line C 4. and place dot 9. Measure 1 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 9) Place the corner of square on dot 8» the edge on dot 9. Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 2. inches less than J^ of waist measure. and draft V T line F down 1 inch more than the skirt length. on line B from line A. Measure 4 inches on Measure Place the B from dot 3 and place dot 5dot 8 inches straight down from skirt length. 5 and place dot 6 corner of square on dot 3» the e dge on dot 6» and draft line E . and place dot 7Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 8. and place dot 12 end of tape line 011 dot 3 line F to meet line D 9 inches from dot Hold the end of tape line on the curved line from dot 12 to meet line D Hold the and curved line from the end of 4junction of lines A and B and draft a 9 inches from dot 4 BACK. about I 5 inches. Measure and place dot 4Measure 4 inches on line B. inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6 $% Place letter Place letter on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 6 on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 4Measure 4 inches on line B» from dot 4. to dot draft line H H. from dot draft a H. from line A. x and 5 *& inches less than J^ waist measure on line B trom " ne A Place letter F on dot 2 and fold draft line C to dot 3 Measure down the place dot 4 of goods from dot 2 I the length of skirt measure and Draft line D straight out line from dot 4 about 5 inches. inches on line F. and place Draft line C» out from dot 3. and draft line G down 14 inches and place dot 101 Measure Place the 5 l 4 inches on line E fr° m point of curve on dot 2 10 and skirt dot 3» and place dot H.
. Place the corner ot square (or skirt rule) on dot 5. Measure 1 W of the waist measure on line B from Measure y? inches more than line A and place dot 3. inches out from dot 9 on line B and place dot 10. Measure }£ inches straight out from the junction of lines D and E and Draft line I 1 place dot 9. the edge on dot . Draft line B }? inch from the end of goods. the edge on dot 7. Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Measure '_. Measure one inch more than the skirt length down line A from dot 2 and place dot 4. and draft line E to line D. Place letter R on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 4 inches in from dot l4 inch allowed for seam. Draft line B )A inch from the end of goods. Measure one inch down line A from line B and place dot 2. from dot 3 on line B and place dot 9. . inch on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. Measure \£ inch straight up from dot 9 and place dot 10. Use the edge of goods for line A. inch in and place dot 8. Measure *4 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 5. 1 \i and place dot 8 inches straight down from dot and draft Place the corner of square on dot 9. D 20 inches straight out from dot 4. Measure 9 inches up Place letter S on dot Place letter line 8 and E from dot 7 and draft to dot 6. on dot 8 and draft to meet line E 9 inches up. inches on line D from dot 6 and place dot ••_. FLARE SKIRT NO. Place letter U on dot 4 and draft to dot 5. Place letter S on dot 12 and draft to meet line F 9 inches up. Place letter W on dot 8 and draft to dot 10. Draft line D 1 straight out from dot 6. Measure _. Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Place letter H on dot 3 and draft to dot II. Use the told of goods for line A. Measure 1 inches up line F from line G and one inch 1 straight place dot 12. 7. Hold the end of tape line on the center of line C and draft line G from dot out and 7 and extending 4 inches beyond line F. 9. 507 FRONT. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. inch out from dot 5 and place dot 6. Place letter R on the end of line G and draft to dot 12. inches down line A from line B and place dot 2. Measure 2 inches up from the end of line E and place dot 8. Place letter R on dot 3 and draft to dot 7. FIRST GORE. Measure lg of the waist measure out line B from line A and place dot 3. W Measure Measure Measure 2 inches out 1 I I I I line F to line D. Measure '. Measure 2 inches more than the length of the skirt down line A from line 1 ^ B and place dot 6. Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 5. Measure 9 inches down line A from dot 2 and place dot 5. .
skirt Measure 4 inches less than J^ the inch straight in and place dot 5. 1 D Measure straight out. 2 Measure 36 inches straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3. Measure 1 /. Measure 4 inches more than the skirt length down line A from dot 2 and % place dot 4. Measure I 1 inches up from the end of line F and one inch straight out and place dot I I Place letter W Place letter S on dot Place 4etter and draft to dot 10. Hold (or pin) the end of tape measure on dot 3 and draft line H Hold (or pin) end of tape measure from the end of line F to the end of This will give the foundation dotted lines. line G. Place Tetter W on dot 5 and draft dot 5. Measure down line A from line B 3 inches more than the skirt length and I draft line 2 inches on line D irom line A and place dot 4. CIRCULAR FLOUNCE. Measure Place letter T on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Use the edge of goods for line A. BACK. A from line B and draft line C straight Draft line D 6 inches straight up from the end of line C. Measure one inch on line B from line A and place dot 2. and draft inches more than the skirt length. Place letter S on dot 5 and draft to dot 6. line Use the end of cloth for line B. 771 v> Worn —— 4 on dot 5 and 'draft to meet line E 10 inches above dot 5. the edge on dot 9.. Draft line A one inch from the edge of cloth. and draft to meet line F R on dot 3 and draft to dot 9. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 3 and draft line F the width of flounce desired. Place letter F on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. SECOND GORE. 1 Measure 2 '. Place the corner of square on dot 3.inches straight out from the end of line F and place dot 10. Place letter M on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 8 inches below line B.< inches on line the B from line A and place dot 4. Measure 1 inches up line E from dot 4 and z ncn n an d place dot 5. Use the edge of goods for line A. length up line A from dot 4 and ^ to meet line A 1 1 % inches up trom B from dot 3 and place dot 6. Draft line B )4 inch from the end of goods. on dot 3 and draft a curved (See Diagram) line E from dot 4 to meet line D. Hold the end of tape line on dot 3 and draft from the end of Measure Measure 4'/. dot 6" and draft to meet line D 3 inches from dot 4. and draft line F Place letter W Place letter U on I / *T" 3 2^ inches more than t. Measure one inch from dot 3 on line B and place dot 7. the edge on dot 7. Draft from dot 5 to dot 4. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. the skirt length. of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 3. Draft line B 'j inch from the end of goods. Measure l 2 inches from dot 7 and place dot 8. Measure 3 \' inches down line A from line B and place dot 2. on dot I I I I 1 1 inches up. See . dot 6 and place dot 7. Measure 50 inches down out 56 inches. . inches on line 8 inches straight down from line E 6 E to line meet line D. Draft line D 1 2 inches straight out from dot 4. Place the corner of square on dot 7. Measure 110 of waist measure down line A from line B and place dot 2. y ' > Measure ' 2 inch up line A from line D and place dot 6. for any style of Flounce desired. Place the end of square on the junction of lines D and E the edge on dot 3 and draft line G in the width desired. Draft line E beginning on line Ail inches below line B ard draft to line 4. Place letter H on dot 10 and draft to meet line D 6 inches from dot 4. Measure \i inches less than y± of the waist measure on line B from dot 2 and place dot 3.
from line JJ and place dot 2Measure }4 inch on line Measure I inch more than the skirt length on line from dot B A A 2 an d place dot 3. Measure y% of waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2Measure )/? inch out from dot 4 and place dot 5Measure inch out from dot 5 and place dot 6Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 5.— 6 5* S ^fcu. Draft line Draft line A B I VL inch from the edge of goods. Draft line Draft line A B l  Yx inch from the edge of goods. Draft line C l out from dot 3 1 /2 the waist measure. A. Use the fold of goods for line 407. C straight out from dot 3 about z inches. and draft line E • Vi inches more than the skirt length. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 4. inches more than the skirt length on line A fr° m line B and straight less pla^ dot 3. Draft line yi inch from the end of goods.^y.fc B SKIRT NO. the edge on dot 7. Place the V mark on dot 4 and draft to dot 72 Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 an d draft from the end of line E to meet Draft line i i line Ci/\ Allow mcn ' or seam on line E FIRST SIDE PANEL. /4 inch from the end of goods. Measure 3/£ inch in from dot 4 on 'ine D an d place dot 8Place the mark on dot 8 an d draft to dot 7Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft from the end of line E to meet Place letter % line C SECOND SIDE PANEL. the edge on dot 7. Measure 3/£ inch in on line D from dot 4 and place dot 8Place the 'a mark on dot 8 and draft to dot 7Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft from the end of line E to meet Hne CAllow Yx inch for seams on lines A and E . Measure 2 3^ inches from dot 4 and place dot (J. and draft line E inches more than the skirt length. Measure yi inch on line A fr° m line B an d place dot 2Measure inches more than the skirt length on line J^ place dot 3 A B from dot 2 and Draft line C A l Measure }4 inch place dot 4 the waist measure straight out from dot 3less than i^ of waist measure on line fr° m hne A and H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2Measure 3^ inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5Place the yi mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches down. inch on line Measure Place the 3/£ 2 Measure z B from line A and place dot 2mark on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 6 inches down. l'i inch from the end of goods. Measure place dot 4 inch than yl of the waist measure on line B fr° m h ne A and Place letter ' F on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2 Measure 2 2 inches out from dot 4 and place dot (JMeasure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 ar>d place dot 7 Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 7 and draft line E 2 inches more than the skirt length.
U A from line B a °d place dot 2 2 inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place Measure y^ of the waist measure on line B fr° m l' ne A an d place dot 4Place letter F on dot 4 an d draft line D to dot 2Measure 2 inch on line D fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 5Place the *4 mark on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 8 inches down. inches on line Measure Measure dot 3. Dratt line Draft line A B 1 of goods. Draft line C from dot 3 to dot 12Hold the end of tape line on dot 9 and draft from dot 12 to the end > H if line Elines Allow Vx inch seam on A and E BACK. /i inch from the end of goods. the edge on dot E 2 inches more than the skirt length from dot 9Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to meet line E 1 3 inches below dot 9 Measure 2}( inches more than the skirt length straight down from dot 9 and place dot 12 (see dotted line). USE FRONT OF Draft line Y\ inch from the edge of goods. 405. d place dot 8Hold the end of tape line on dot 8 an d draft line C from dot 3 to the end of ' ' / l line C Allow y± inch for seam on lines A an d E SKIRT NO.BACK. Measure 3 '4 inches out from dot 4 ar) d place dot 6Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 an d place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 4. Measure 2^ inches on line A from line B and place dot 2Measure 2 % inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 3Measure y$ of the waist measure on line Bfrom line A and place dot4Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2Measure V. inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5 . Draft line Draft line A B V\ inch from the edge of goods. and draft line Place the corner of square on dot 9. the edge on dot 7 an d draft line E z inches more than the skirt length. Y\ inch from the edge '2 inch from the end of goods. Measure z the distance between dot 4 ar>d line A on fine B ar. from line B and place dot 2Measure i}( inches on line Measure 1 inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place dot 3Measure y$ of the waist measure on line B from line A and place dot 4 Place letter on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5Place the y% mark on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches below A A % H dot 2 Measure Mj of the waist measure on line D from dot 2 and place dot 6Measure i)4 inches from dot 6 and place dot 7Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8Use the }4 mark to draft lines F and GMeasure 2 2 inches from dot 4 and place dot 9Measure 2 inches from dot 9 and place dot 10Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. Draft line B >2 inch from the end of goods. 407.
.
inches ' more than the length of skirt from dot 2 and place dot 3. Allow y inch seam on lines A and E BACK. tape line on dot ^ and draft from the end of line E to meet C. E ' /z l Place letter H Hold end of line on dot 4 and draft to meet line E ' 2 inches below dot 9. . Place the corner of square on dot 4» the edge on dot 1 and draft line E Measure y inch on line D 2 Yi inches more than the skirt length from dot 4. BICYCLE OR RAINY DAY SKIRT. Measure zy.Measure 4 inches more than the skirt length on and place dot 5. For a triple box plait make the top 7 inches and the bottom 19 inches. 5^ inch fr° m the end of goods. Place the corner of square on dot 9» the edge on dot 1 1 and draft line inches more than the skirt length. Draft line C 1 2 inches straight out Measure \u inches less than y z from dot 3. to dot y 2 to draft lines P and G from dots 6 and 7 8. Hold the end of tape line on dot 9 and draft from the end of line E to meet line C 5 Allow inches from dot 3. draft to line Place letter on dot 5 an d meet A dot 6 inches below dot 2. Y> inches more than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and Draft line C j ' z inches straight out from dot 3. Measure place dot 3. down from dot 10 and pl ace dot il. Y\ i nc h from the edge of Yz inch from the end of goods. inch for seam on lines y A and E. Measure Measure '/s I of waist measure on D fr° m 5 and place dot 6. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft to dot 4. /i inches from dot 6 and place dot 7. Measure }& of the waist measure on line B fr° m line A and place dot 9. from dot 2 and place dot 5. Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to dot 4. Draft line Draft line A B 2 y goods. USE FRONT OF SIDE PANEL. line E from line B and Draft the same for a single box plait. making the top 3 inches and the bottom 12 inches. inches on line B from dot 4 and place dot 9. Measure *4 inches on line A h" om hne B and place dot 2. Allow for seam on line E. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 7. Measure 7 inches on line B fr° m dot 4 and place dot 6. Draft line Draft line 407. of waist measure on line B fr° m line A and place dot 4. Measure Measure 5^/4 inches 2 on line A fr° m line B and place dot 2. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft to meet line A 6 inches below dot 2. line and place dot 4 Measure 1 inch on line D from dot 2 and place dot 5. Measure 4 inches Use the 2 mark straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8. Measure 3 of waist measure on line Place letter H G l on dot 4 and draft line B from line A D to dot 2. . A Y B 1 1 inch from the edge of goods. Measure /2 l inches from dot Measure 8 inches straight 9 and place dot 10. GOLF.
inches straight down from the last dot. inches required. E th e Measure Measure I 1 inches on line C fr° m dot 3 ar>d place dot 8 1 yC. Place letter R l on dot 4 ar d draft to meet ne line ar d E 5 inches down from dot 6. Draft line Draft line Measure inches on line A from line B an d place dot 2Measure the length of skirt on line A fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 3Draft line A B zy C I the edge of goods. tne edge on dot 8. Measure Measure I inches from dot 3 on '' C place dot 9 I inch straight up from dot 9 Place letter Place letter W on dot 10 and W on dot 3 a nd draft to the an d place dot 10end of line E> draft to dot 10 Allow y inch for seam on lines A an d E BACK. ^ Draft line C 1 Measure dot 4 straight out from dot 3inch more than V3 waist measure on line B from line A ar. an d draft line length of skirt. Place letter E the Allow y on dot 4 ar>d draft on dot 3 an d draft inch seam on line E}jf H to meet line E line C t0 the 6 inches below dot 5en d of line E SIDE. Measure J^ inch on line A fr° m me B and place dot 2Measure the length of skirt on line A fr° m dot 2 an d place dot 3Measure I inches less than of the waist measure on line B fr° m me and place dot 4 y y ' A Place letter H on dot 4 an d draft line D dot to dot 2 Measure Measure Measure I inch out from dot 4 I inch out from dot 8 inches straight 5 down from an d place dot 5ar>d pkce dot 6 6 and place dot 7 Place the corner of square on dot 5. Place letter. Draft line B i ncn from the end of goods. d place Measure M inch straight out from dot 2 an d pl a ce dot 5 Place letter J on dot 5 an d draft line D t0 dot 4 Place letter fH on dot 5 ar>d draft to meet line 8 inches below dot 2Measure 5 inches on line from dot 4 ar d place dot 6. tne edge on dot 7. l i Measure 2 : inches on line A fr° m '' ne B ar d place dot 2Measure the skirt length on line A from dot 2 an d place dot 3. inches straight up from dot 8 an d place dot 9line Place letter Place letter Allow y 1 on dot 9 and draft to the end of on dot 3 and draft to dot 9inch seam on lines A and E}/f \f is E When the dart a dart y. Draft line fi 3^ inch from the edge of goods. . Use the fold of goods foi line A' Draft line B ]/2 inch from the end of goods. m straight out Measure place dot inch more than from dot 3of the waist measure on j >'i line B from line A ar) d 4 Place letter H on dot 4 a nd draft line D to dot 2Measure '4 inch on line D from dot 2 an d place dot 5Place letter on dot 5 an d draft to meet line A 4 inches down from dot 2Measure inch from dot 4 an d place dot 6Measure } inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 7Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 7 ar d place dot 8Place the corner of square on dot 6. an d draft line E the M y M length of skirt. an d draft line length of skirt. A B Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 6 an d place dot 7 Place the corner of square on dot 4.e » 4 b CHILD'S SKIRT— FRONT. tne edge on dot 7. V\ inch fr° /^ inch from the end of goods. measure y% of the waist measure from dot 5 making at top and to meet 4.
and place dot 20Measure 1 2 inches less than the skirt length. Measure 414 inches on line B from dot 10 and place dot \\. and place dot 4. Use the edge of goods Draft line te \j it (X* I. on dot 17 and continue line J to dot 19. from dot 14. Measure j£ inches on line B from dot 6 and place dot 8Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 8 and place dot 9. from line B. and line Measure Measure Measure Measure Measure 8 inches 6*4 from line and place dot 9. Place and place dot 14. from dot 13. and place dot 2Measure inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3. Measure I inch straight out from dot ^ and place dot 8 % 4^ Draft line E from dot 4 to dot 8 B. Measure 2 yi inches straight up from dot 16 and place dot 17. and place dot 13. 1 V Draft line G H draft line H to meet line A 9 inches below dot 2Measure the length of skirt on line A. Measure ' j of waist measure on line B» from line A. from dot 2. from dot 10. Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 18 and place % dot 19. 6 inches on H draft line straight out from dot R 1 1 line Place Measure 8}4 inches on letter F on dot H H. and place dot 124 inches straight down from dot 12 and place dot 13. from dot 4. Measure J inches on line A. Place letter U on dot 1 and draft line E to dot 9. Measure 10 inches straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6 Place letter H on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 6Measure the length of skirt on line A from dot 5 and place dot 7.. from line B. Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5. 1 1 Place the point of curve on dot 10 and draft line F to dot 7. RIDING SKIRT— NO. from dot 9. and place dot 18. from dot 2. Place letter H on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 9. . Measure 3 inches on line H. Measure ]4> of the waist measure from dot 6 and place dot 101 ! _. Place the corner of square on dot H. meet line 3 R % inches from letter T on the end of line I and draft to dot 15. Measure 2 inches straight down from dot and place dot 12. Draft lines 2. and place dot 1012 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot line on B A H. Place letter M from dot on dot 10 to 3 and dot 12 NO. Place letter T on dot 17 and draft line J to dot 15. the edge on dot 10. from dot and draft H. inch from the edge and end of goods. and place dot 2Measure inches on line A. the Place letter F 20 corner f square on dot 21 and draft line R straight in 24 Measure 4 inches straight up from dot 14 and place dot 15. inches on line B. Measure 2^ inches on l. straight down from dot and place dot 21Continue line J from dot 19 to dot 21Place nches. Measure 51^ inches on line H. Place letter H on dot 9 and draft line F to dot 13. and place dot 6Measure 3 yi inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7. inches on line B. Place letter R on dot and draft line G to dot 13. for line A B % inch from the end of goods. A and B Measure 3 inches on line A.ne H. Measure zyt. from dot 16. and place dot 3. Draft line I 20 inches straight out from dot 13Draft line J from dot 12 to the end of line I. Place letter F on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 3. Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 3 and place dot 4. and place dot 16. Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 5. line I to dot 11.
Measure 3 J^ inches straight down from dot 17 and place dot 18Measure 3^ inches straight out from dot 18 and place dot 19Place letter jf on dot 19 and draft to dot 17Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 19 and place dot 20Measure inches straight out from dot 20 and place dot 21Place letter J on dot 19 and draft to dot 21Measure 2 inches straight out from dot 21 and place dot 22Measure inches less than the skirt length straight down from dot 22 and place dot 23Continue line J from dot 21 to dot 23Measure 2 inches less than the skirt length on line A from dot 2 and place H 1 % 1 1 dot 24 25262728 Measure I 2 inches on line A. and place dot 2Measure yi inch more than one twelfth of the waist measure on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4Place letter N on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 4 Measure 3 inches on line B> from dot 3. and place dot 16. to dot 23Measure 1 2 inches out line L from dot 29 and place dot Measure 4 inches straight up from dot 30 and place dot 3031 Draft line JH from dot 24 to dot 31Measure I o inches on line L> from dot 30. Place letter R on dot and draft line J to dot 15Place letter R on dot 15 and continue line J to dot 17. Place a dot on line B the distance between dots 7 ar>d 9 and measure % straight down 1 1 yi inches and place dot 12 Place letter G on dot dot Place letter H on 4 and 6 and draft line draft line P to dot G to dot 12. from dot \\. Use Draft line 3. Place letter R on dot 10 and draft line E to dot H. Measure 14 inches straight down from dot 16 and place dot 17. Place letter B on dot 10 and draft line I to dot 13Measure 3 i/J inches on line B. from dot 2. 12 Measure 10 inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 13Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line H to dot 13. and place dot 14Measure 5}^ inches straight down from dot 14 and place dot 15Measure 10 inches on line B» fr° m dot 14. the edge of goods for line AYz inch from the end of goods. and place dot 5' Measure 4 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 6Measure one twelfth of the waist measure from dot 5 and place dot 7Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 7 and place dot 8Place letter K on dot 6 and draft line D to dot 8Measure 31^ inches on line B» from dot 7» and place dot 9' Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10Measure J^ of the waist measure from dot 9 and place dot \\. an d pl»ce dot 32 . B Measure 9 inches on line A> fr° m une B.Measure 12 inches in on line K» from dot 21. and place dot Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 27 and place dot Place letter G on dot 26 and continue line R to dot 28Continue line R from dot 28 to dot 24Measure 4 inches down from dot 24 and place dot 29Draft line L> from dot 29. and place dot 22Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 22 and place dot 23Measure o inches straight down from the end of line and place dot 24Place letter R on dot 21 and draft to dot 231 R Place letter R S Place letter on dot on dot 23 24 and an d draft to dot 24draft to dot 8 NO. and place dot Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 25 and place dot Place letter S on dot 26 and draft line R to dot 2Measure 8 inches on line A» from dot 25.
on line E. Measure 4'^ inches on line A. inches more than ^ ltg the hip measure on line D fr° m dot 2 and Measure the length of outside dot 7. inches less than the measure around the ankle straight out from Measure 2 Place letter A C Place letter H H ^ dot 7 and place dot 16.Measure 3 inches straight Place letter Place letter S R up from dot 32 and place dot 33to dot 31on dot 33 and continue line on dot 23 and draft t0 dot 33 M POCKET. on line B» fr° inches from dot 3» on line B» and place dot 9z inch from dot 9 a nd place dot 10. Measure Place letter E» fr° m dot 8. on dot 12 and continue line E to dot 6. / Knee Ankle 9% . and place dot Measure 2 inches in on line D» fr° Measure Measure Measure 1^ of waist measure m 2 V m Measure 2 V? inches straight up from dot H H. an d place dot 10Place letter B °n dot 7 afi d draft to dot 103 inches E straight out from dot 8 on line D TROUSERS FRONT. inches straight down from dot Measure 12 Measure 1 inch straight in from dot 14 and place dot 15. from line B» and place dot 2. and place dot 4Measure 7 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5Place letter H on dot 3 and draft line D to dot 5Measure 7 inches down line A» from dot 4. J 2 Hips 4° 12 A and B ]i inch from the edge and end ot goods. Drafc lines Measure 1 }4 inches on line A» fr° m une B» and place dot 2Measure 4 inches on line B> fr° m line A. and place dot 3. Place letter G on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 5. fr° m dot 2. Place letter G on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Place letter G on dot 5 and continue line C to dot 2. Measure 3 inches on line B fr° m line A and place dot 3. inch more than y^ of the outside leg measure on line A fr° m in e Measure and place dot 2. and place dot 12. line Continue F Place letter M on from dot 15. Place the corner of square on dot 2i the short arm even with line A and Draft lines 1 ' draft line D out 2 5 inches beginning 8 inches from dot 2. a nd place dot 3. Place letter U on dot 13 and extend line F to dot 15. Measure place dot 6. Measure 3 l 2 inches on line A.in e A. Place letter U on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 13. on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 9Measure zyi inches from dot 9. measure on line A. from line B. dot 6. 1 Draft the dart to meet 4 inches straight down from center of dart. and place dot 6Measure 8 inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7Place letter H on dot 5 and continue line D to dot 7Measure 14 inches on line A. . and place dot 3point of curve on dot 3 a °d draft line C t0 dot 2Place the Measure 414 inches on line A. . and place dot 13. Measure }i of waist measure on line B. fr° m dot 2» and place dot 8Draft line A ancl B % inch fr° m tne e dg e an d en d of goods.24 . on dot 8 and draft line E to dot 12. extending }4 inch below dot 16. Measure 6 inches straight down from dot and place dot 14. the end of line F and draft line G to dot 7. Draft lines Waist Outside leg measure . B A a nd B Y\ inch from the edge and end of goods. and place dot 4. afi d place dot 8. fr° m .. BACK. Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. from line B. and place dot 9.
10. Measure 8 inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 6. A and B }4 inch from the edge and end of goods. from dot 2> and place dot 7. on line B. draft to dot j/ inch outside of the end of L and meet line L 4 Place a dot *^ inch in from dot 1 7 and draft to meet line J 4 inches up. and H.^ inches straight out from dot 14 and place dot 15Place letter \J on dot 15 and draft to dot 13Measure the length of outside leg measure on line A.Measure J^ of waist measure on line C from dot 2 and place dot 4. BACK. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2. and place dot 12. from dot 2. and place dot 20Measure 5 inches straight up from dot 20 and place dot 21Place the point of curve on dot and draft to dot 21Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 21 and place dot 22Place letter G on dot 1 1 and draft line L to dot 22Measure 3/£ of knee measure straight out from dot 15 and place dot 23Place letter G on dot 22 and extend line L to dot 23Measure the measure around the ankle straight out from dot 17 and place H dot 24. Measure 4 inches straight out from lot 12 and place dot 13Place letter S on dot 9 and draft line J to dot 13Measure 7 inches down line A» from dot 12. Draft line E from dot 5 to the end of line D. Measure 4 inches straight out from dot 16 and place dot 17Extend line J from dot 15 to dot 17Measure 5 inches from dot 3. Measure 7^ inches on line A. L from dot 23 to one inch S on the end of line L and below dot 24draft to dot line 17. and place dot 5. CORSET COVER. and place dot 2Draft lines line A fr° m NECK TABLE. . and draft line K to dot 19Measure 3^ inches in from dot 11. Extend Place a line Place letter inches up. Measure 5 inches on line A. on line B. and draft down 4 inches. and place dot 14Measure 4. 2 Measure place dot inches less than j4 of hip measure on line fl» from dot 10. the edge on dot 6. Dot 2 . from d . and place dot 18Measure 6V inches straight down from dot 18 and place dot 19Place letter H on dot 3. from dot 2> ar*d place dot 16. Place the corner of square on dot 4. on line H. Measure 2 inches on line C> from dot 4. and place dot 10Place the short draft line H arm of square even with line A» the corner on dot 10> and ou t 8 inches beginning 14 inches from dot 10. Measure j£ inches straight out from dot 1 and place dot 8Measure inch straight out fiom dot 8 and place dot 9i y line D I I Draft line Draft line F G I from dot 2 to dot 8from dot 8 to dot 9inch Measure more than ?/* of leg measure on line A.
from line B. Place letter Place letter Q on dot 5 and dot A B to dot 2. and place dot 8. the curve and draft on the opposite side of line L (See dotted Extend lines F and L about 2 inches below line D. Measure 5 inches straight down from draft line dot 8 and Place letter on dot 2 and E to dot 9. from dot 7. and place dot 4 D I straight out from dot 4 Measure inch on line D> from dot 4. H. Hon dot 6. place dot 9. UNDER ARM FORM. down from dot Measure i  2 inch less than }£ of arm's eye measure straight 11 and place dot 12Measure 1/^ inch straight out from dot 12 and place dot 13Place the Place letter point of curve on dot 13 and draft line to dot J to dot H. to dot 8 Measure 6}4 inches from dot 3» on line B» and place dot 9Measure 4. on nne D. drafting the lower side of dart V% inch above line H. place dot \\. to dot 5 Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 5 and place dot 7 Measure yt. and place dot 6Draft line E. Measure the width of under arm form from dot 2 and place dot 3Measure the distance between dots 6 and 13 in side body and then measure that distance straight Measure I ^A inches straight out from dot up from dot 2 and p'ace dot 4. inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10Place letter A on dot 3. and place dot H. straight out Measure the width of under arm form the length of under from dot 4 and place dot 6. the edge on dot 6. between meet 5 and (J.Measure the length of back on Draft line line A. Measure 3 inches from dot 6 on Ime D and place dot 2. and draft line Q 15 L from the center of the shoulder middle of line D. from dot 5. M on 2 1 and Place the point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 7. from dot 6. and draft line H the proportionate length of shoulder. Place line to letter S on line L 9 the junction of lines D and L. (See dotted lines). K and L Cut on lines C and J. inch in towards line A. to dot 3. 4 and place dot 5. 5 inches straight down from draft line dot 10 and Place letter A on dot 3 and F to dot \\. the edge of curve on dot 10. Measure Measure i/^ inch out from dot 3 and place dot 10. and draft line K dot 13 Measure Measure >i inch 5 on line D. Place a dot on line H '8 i ncn ea ch side of line L and draft a dart to 2 inches below line H. from dot 5. Place the corner of square on dot 3. and measure up from dot 3 arm and place dot draft line draft line 7. F. from dot 2. Allow % inch seams on lines E. and draft a new meet line H from the end of dart line to point of shoulder. and place dot 8 Draft line F. and place dot 5Measure the distance given in the table for center back and side body on line D. and place dot 14 inches straight down from 14 and to dot to the place dot 15 Place letter Draft line dots A on dot 6. w «h about l /2 inch spring at bottom. (See diagram ). Measure I y A inches in from dot 2. . and draft a slightly curved inches above line D Reverse lines).
FRONT. from line NECK TABLE.CORSET COVER. and place dot 2 neck table under dot 2 on line A. in the inch from the end of cloth. Draft line Draft line A B '^4 1 inches from the edge of cloth. Measure the distance given B. Dot 2 3 S .
7 .
± IB 9 .
the edge of curve on dot 10. draft a curved line from the end ot ~3> line E to Allow at meet Dbottom for width of hem line .ASt "3 "lace tne point ot curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3Measure 6*4 inches from dot 3. Place letter R on dot 4. Hold the end of tape line on dot 2 and draft a curved line from the end of line E to meet line D BACK. '2 inch fr° Draft line (p 2 & Measure }4 inch on line A fr° m iine B. Y'. and J i. and place inch more than the skirt length on line A A y g 'S Draft line Measure 3 inches on line B fr° m dot 2. Use ADaf* line B % inch from the end of goods. F straight in from the end ot line E to line A. Use the edge of goods for line Athe end of goods. and pl a ce dot 2°f tne waist measure on line B. on line B. and place dot 5 B m % Draft line D straight out from dot 5. and draft to meet line 9 inches below dot 3from dot 3.ine B. LADIES' Use UNDER FRONT. and draft line Measure Measure 5 inches straight down E the length of line Draft line E in front. and draft line J to dot 5 from dot 5 an d place dot (Jinches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7' I '4 Place the corner of square on dot 5. the edge on dot 7. and draft line E inch more than the skirt length. / l on dot 4. measure \: of the waist measure on line B from line A. Draft line }{. and draft line C to R Measure dot 5. and Place letter D on the end of line H.oA the end of tape line on dot 2 and desired. and draft line H m J4 '' inch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. and place dot 3Measure Measure j^. and place dot 6Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 2. fr° m l' ne A. Measure 2 inch out from dot 3 and place dot 6Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 3. and inch D straight out from dot 3 draft line E ' more than the skirt length. beginning 6 inches from dot 4l inch more than /{ of the bust measure on line D fr° m dot 4. an d draft to dot 7Hold the end of tape line on dot 4 and draft a line from the end of line E meet line D V % to SIDE GORE. fr° ne D 1 Measure place dot 5 straight out. and place dot 4Measure 9 inches straight down from dot 4 and place dot 5Place the corner of square on dot 2. about 10 inches. from . and place dot 3inches straight out from dot 3 an d pl a ce dot 4dot 4R" on dot 2. inch in from dot 3 and place dot 4Place letter R on dot 4. the edge on dot 5. inch fr° B m Measure 4 inches place dot 2 less than % of waist measure on line B> from line A. and Measure Measure ^ 1 l / 2 2 Place letter Place letter inch on line A. Measure 2 inches Bj and place dot 4Draft line less than }4 of the arm's eye measure on line A. the edge on dot 7. and place dot 9Measure 3 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10Place letter A on dot 3. the told of goods for line Athe end of goods.h D straight out from dot 5 draft line E ' 3H more than the skirt length. and draft line C to dot 2Measure the length of skirt down line A from dot 2. the edge on dot 7. Draft line the edge of goods for line Measure 2 inches on line B fr° m dot 2. SKIRT. and place dot 22 Measure on line A from line B 1 inch more than the skirt length and place dot 3.
is Place the lining on the cloth. line. First see that the lining is cut 2 y inch longer than the measure. than % inch stitches. if Measure your waist before or stitching the under arm seam. The casing should be sewed tight to the seam of the dress and then cross stitched if desired. Now Now push the lining up % inch and run a basting across the waist grade the fullness in the lining by running a basting (% inch stitch) line. Make the lining The bones must be slightly full put in easy when they must be sewed perfectly tight and above the waist line they must be sprung in at least y inch in order to remove 2 the fullness in the lining. 1 Now up about inch below the waist line. See that the cloth perfectly smooth. which must be started at the point of the dart) and baste up and down. large small. Run a basting across the lining about 3 inches above the waist line in the front and from 4 to 4^ inches in the back.TO PUT THE LINING ON FULL. sidebody and under arm shape. Begin at the waist line to do your basting (darts excepted. The basting should not be longe.' to the waist line. and lines. Be careful to baste in small stitches around tht arm's eye ami neck to prevent stretching. stitch inside or outside of the tra«"* . In the joining the waist it is best to pin the traced lines first and remove pins as you baste. % for inch inside of the tracing making the most fullness near the waist baste in the tracing }£ inch stitch.
Measure Measure Measure line A. Measure . and place dot U. the edge on °i dot 2. and 2. and place dot 10 Measure S inches in from dot 8 on line E.BICYCLE BLOOMERS. arm ^Jj"*' l°straight °out. inch less than and place dot 7. and draft line D of outside leg A from dot 2. Measure the length place dot 6 measure on line A from dot 2. 2 inches from dot 7 m0rC tha ° f thC hlP meaSUrC ° n lme E fr° d0t " S(^ uare * m Measure 3} < inches in from dot 8 on hne E. 5 and 6.A ^ Pladng leUer J °" thC firSt d0t and draft from »<j^«oS5' This will give you a correct shape at the waist line desired width. Measure 9 inches down B from line Place letter M on dot 3. The yoke can be made any . and place dot 9. S Tt f % of outside leg measure on line A from dot and 7. the corner on dot 7 beginning . and measure down according to size of wais * (See WaiSl meaSUre and do ted lines the diagram. Use the 5 Draft line ^ dotT Hold goods for line Ainch from the end of goods 6 6/2 inChCS d ° Wn thC f ° ld f ° g00ds from line fold of B 1 B and P lace the end of tape line goods and draft curved line Measure 2 inches on line Place dots 4.) Place the edge of square on dots 3. B and the fold of 3. to and place dot 5 dot 5. and place dot 2inches straight out from dot 2 and place dot 3 inches more than of the waist % measure on line and place dot 4. . Draft line C from dot 14 to dot 2. Measure 5 inches in from dot 8 on line E. draft line E 'IdpTce Z % B. even with lin e A. 6 on line C. and place dot line C 2 inches apart. inch from the end of goods. 4. D ^iVfnches"" place dot 8 ° f SqUarC ° n d0t 6 thC 6dge n d0t 8> alld draft line ° down from 7 and ana place dot 1 C he are on the J un ction of line B and the fold of J goods. Draft line F from dot 14 to dot 12. and draft line H to dot 15 dot 15. and make a dot in the same manner.Use the fold of goods for line A Draft line B %. but it must be shaped at the back according to line D. 2 inches 1% 2 down line A from line B. 5 and 6 on Measure 1 inch from dot Measure 5 inches straight on the junction of line C from dot 2 to line B C from dot 2. according to the waist measure ^!t V ™" T ' ™ 011 ™6 1 ' Hne dorado*: A)Vo\. Place letter H on dot 8 and draft to dot 12 Place the point of curve on dot 4 and draft line G to dot 13 Measure 7 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot 15 e C thC meaSUrC af0Und thC aDkle Str from dot6 Ld is" U H pt eX ^ ht ° Ut Place letter Place letter G on G on Draft hne J dot 8. and extend line H 1 inch beiow dot 16from the end of line G to dot 6 SKIRT YOKE. and place dot Measure 7 inches straight up from dot 9 and place dot 12. Measure 8 inches straight up from dot and place dot 13. Measure 1 inch from dot 4 on line B.
See that the goods are folded double ( unless they are stripes or plaids. When your drafting is finished it the lining is drafted double ) pin it together well before tracing and cutting. Baste the waist line first. first holding lines \ and K a little full for about 3 inches above the waist line. otherwise thev scholars after finishing are fully com the goods. making of Wire Frames ) ( See to the instructions for matching stripes. plaids and Final Finishing of the or Bonnet. all other sewing lines wheels. . Place the goods on the table face down. Now place the lining on the goods right side line up. carefully. which should be a one inch seam so as to give a little ease on those seams if desired. The neck and arm hole is cut on the marked lines as seams are allowed in the and line B in the drafting. The entire art of Trace the with in the front and darts with one wheel. up and down from the waist line with a from to ]/ inch long. It is best to place all of the forms in position first and see that the waist lines run even with the thread of the goods. then pin little at the waist line and arrange the lining above the waist with a ease. selvedge towards you. making a '^ inch seam. When both cut put a small notch at the waist line. then around the neck and arm hole with a y± inch stitch. NEW YORK baste line E. then baste across Millinery Institute 5 the waist line. this will give an even seam and be a great assistance in your basting. which should br done very inch stitch. then pin carefully before cutting. starting from the waist line up. Never raise it with your Place the lining flat on the table when cutting. pin carefully. pinning the lining to the material. Hat Place the lining Lay the goods smooth on the table. it careful in basting. See that the front edge of the lining and goods easy. No matter how perfect vour draftings are the the basting thread too be ruined bv improper basting. then line A. is to be put on full then it must be drafted 2 inch longer than measure calls for.) INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING AND FINISHING WAIST. Use a double tracing wheel. petent to take charge of business for themselves. The bottom of the waist lining at the end of the goods (so as to cut saving). using a V WEST 14th STREET. Vienna Place the lining on the goods. getting it meet. except on the shoulders and line E FRENCH MILLINERY under arm shape. being careful not Now to stretch the goods as it is cut partly on the bias. Do not put your hand under or raise up to 2 Follow the same instructions in basting the side body and under arm ^ shape. If the lining / l the ( hand. using a small firm stitch. Before removing the basting thread^ are apt 10 pull or break the thread 01 This system is so thoroughly taught that clip them every few inches. figures. waist line. which of course must be the first consideration. Pin the lining on a little all in place. beginning at the top or point and basting down. or take leading positions for others. TAUGHT From the TO CUT THE GOODS. Baste shoulder next. Now pin and baste the darts. YOU LEARN ALL THE FINE POINTS Be very waist can tight. begin basting at the point of the dart. front. fold side of the lining. beginning at the top of the dart and In taking up the darts. Vienna Millinery Institute To the arrange the lining for drafting. it so that the drafting will be made on wrong Place the lining on the table wi'h the selvedge towards vou.' then stitch baste the other lines in the tracing baste. Do not draw will draw the goods out of position. on the goods. unless the nap or figure runs the other way.
with the of the basting side . within 3^ inch of the point and trim the wide Notch the first dart at the waist line and 2 The price is i. Slightly curve the seam out at the point of the dart. under arm shape up. and then in Now join up and down. start the bottom of the waist take plenty of time and be careful that the iron does not PRESSING CURVE This curved pressing board necessary to the dressmaker as to is it If Do not stretch the seams. heavy woolen material the seam can be slightly moistened. the notches it . stretch the seam while stitching the under arm shape on the side up. and pressing at not too hot . Every waist. stretch the seam while stitching for about 6 inches above the waist line. We do not send them obtain You cannot them Stitch about 6 inches above the waist line. this will obviate any fullness. Use silk in stitching in every case. 5 other seams. or side body seam. of the back and one side body. First as is take the back seam and notch is at off" the waist line and then 3 and 6 inches at the ladies' tailor. now either overhand or bind the seam if binding used be careful and put sleeve. TO PREPARE FOR BONING. waist line and z Notch the side on slightly full so as to body or curved seam at the seam in any garment should be pressed be copied over the curved presser. in order that the seam will give to the bone in so as not to break the stitch in the reheating) than with any other irons. the if basting from the seams only. beginning at dot 7. O. being careful have the waist lines meet baste from waist line the waist line. it is well to place a narrow strip of or hooks and eyes. price is (two irons stitching down. well heated — seam bottom up. the traced lines up and down the back.oo. remove surface . Now pin in the traced or sewing lines. Front. nearly parallel with the thread of the goods . part — Cut to open the dart to down y 2 inch in width. being careful nol both traced lines will not over y^ inch. come out even. the most practical irons to be had. Take one to side together and pin stretch fast. Do not turn in the lining or canvas between the fold to stay the button holes.TO JOIN. is hem allow them to spring into the form and prevent binding. arm shape and pin body. D. To stitch the left side of the basque. C. placing the two waist line. to . The Stitch the next. begin basting at the waist line. beginning ^4 and down. body. Begin the back seams starting at the neck. double the You can accomplish amount of work (without $2. then down. PRESSING. beginning at dot 2. seam well for about 8 inches while stitching. begin at the bottom and stitch body up. come in contact with any other part of the waist. then trim and round the seam . First. and 8 inches above waist line . This curve must not without our consent. dart in skirt. baste Now pin the from the waist line down you baste. making a small waist line. Now down from to Take ning at the under . to the side either piece. pin. inch below the point of the dart. ar>d stitching down just inside of the basting. steady motion (not too fast). and baste y. removing the pins as stitch. following the same instructions. stretching the line. just inside and stand). and stitch just above the waist inside of the basting. — as the right side. run the machine with an easy. so that . prevent any tightness on the seam. and the second dart at waist line and z and 4 inches above waist (The reason for notching the seams line. and finishing i^ inch above. and a medium stitch (not too short). elsewhere. See that the iron .00 per set First see that the tension in the machine is not too tight. beginning at the waist line and stitching up Front. the seam that joins the under arm shape to the side body notch at waist line and z]^ and 5 inches above and finish the same as the / l 2 . Never press a curved on a flat you have nothing is better turn a rockingchair use the rocker. They are cold handle and heat retainers. These Tailoring Irons are up date and to TO STITCH. this will place the side body and under arm shape the same Stitch the right side first. and finish the same as the other seams. ) Now fold the front in along line A. inch back to prepare the front for button holes When buttons are used. inches above. begin basting at the waist line up. when and for that is sprung seam. after notching finish off the seam the same as back. and any curved above .
Ladies' Tailor. Robes. (Never in hot. Brown. This will force the hoop part within the proper position. The bones for the darts in front should come to within yi ' ncn of the point ot the dart. Now force the bone up so as to remove the fulness Then hoop the in the casing and fasten firmly 3 inches above the waist line. of Stern S. 808 Broadway Boston. as that York. t0 s. It is best bone in each edge of thr lior>t in order to keep the waist from running up . Warren's Featherbone as is used and recomfashion creators mended bv such prominent Mme. H I. the balance put in slightly full. The back shoulder can be put Press on full. by putting on eyes are a tape just back of line it A. Bros.the same as the other Then pin down from the waist line. Constable of" & Co. Turn the end of the binding down forming a loop about 1 inch long and fasten firmly. Mrs. Face over the hooks and eyes with a narrow bias strip. McCreery & Co. C. some ning ? pretty contrasting color. stretch the front shoulder y4 inch so as to join evenly with the back Send for "Featherbone Meth FREE. of Lord & Taylor. seams from the waist line up and down. Trim the seam down y? inch and notch in the center and stitch and finish the same as other seams. Now join Accept no substitute. Use a bone 2 inches shorter for the curved or side body seam. New York. construction Its peculiar quill makes flexible it the lightest. joining the front to the under arm shape. 7 Temple Place Chicago. the balance to be turned up at the bottom and fastened. None genuine without the feather trademark. Gabler. and pinning up.vered and ever ready steels are put on in the same manner as the bones'in the double casing. of Simpson. Mr. Mich. Round the end of the bone off" smoothly and force it in the casing from bottom to the top of the loop. bias I y? to 2 inches wide. New The BergdorfGoodman Co. the canvas . The bones for each side of the under arm shape seams should be 1 inch shorter than the under arm measure.. The Warren Featherbone Co. Griffiths. New and should be prepared by soaking in cold makes them brittle. its Now at put the waist together. of Arnold. Paul Sarraco.. Bros.a v . York. Co. z firmly to the seam y^ mcn below end of the bone.) We also recommend Feather Bone. take your tape line and measure the waist and bust lines and see if they correspond exactly with your measure. New York. Hickson. Then fasten tight by sewing through the casing only y^ inch below the top of bone. stretching it as you baste to fit the shape at the bottom. Crawford & Simpson Levy. beginthe waist line Isn't that good evidence of worth Baste. the buttons. The length of the bone for the back should be V? of the back measure. Fasten y4 inch below the top of the bone. R. Mr. 2 inches longer than the bone. A nice finish for the bones is to feather stitch them. Miss L. Measure the neck of the according to instructions. cut the casing firmly 1 inch below the waist line. using Real whalebones are always good or tepfid water. Stewart. should you not be able to stretch the front fufficiently to meet it. Sew both sides to the seam down to within 3 or 4 inches of the waist line. of Everall Bros. When hooks and used is well to turn back and r&j[^#i!a?sf> Warren's Featherbone Is the A. pin firmly on. it should be sewed on firmly and held full from 1 inch below the waist line to 4 or 5 inches above. place the bone in the casing. turn the upper end of the casing down I y£ inches and fasten. fold the lining along line to place a Standard Dress Stiffening of the world. Redfern's. Mr. and fasten When double casing is used. and pin and baste with the front towards you. Before stitching the under arm seam. bone so as to take out the greater part of the fullness in the casing. l bottom by cutting a bias strip 1 /. Three Oaks. ods. Now sew the lower end of the bone firmly on seam • Now spring the bone \! inch and fasten inch up from the bottom of the waist. Robes Manteaux. inches deep. to do this begin even with the point of the dart and stitch down y£ inch further in (or the width of the bone. the one and only Featherbone. stretching so as to shape smoothly to Turn the upper the waist and turning in \i inch at the bottom ready for felling. aYid shape the bottom of the waist as desired. of Jas. et .left side. New Moschowitz York. with twist or embroidery silk. being careful not to catch through the lining. Now sew from the bottom up on both sides. Henry Levy. an d stitch '& inch back from the edge. Mr. When the single casing is used. as that is used • as a fly. ) The bone should be placed in before putting on the hooks and eyes. Ladies' Tailors. Mme. 704 Harshall Field Annex Building Prepare the canvass for edge in and fell with a light stitch. most durable and dress boning material on the market. well. Then turn up canvas and material together \o inch and catch it down slightly to the lining. Mr. Frazer. Pin the waist lines together the General Offices. of Alcott & WeeKes. The hooks should be placed back yfa inch from edge. Sold by all dealers. but get Warren's. S. dress and add 3^ inch tailor to the measure and It draft collar is Use canvas for foundation." It's the shoulder. and the eyes just even with the edge. John Wanamaker. this will Now cut the facing make a smooth and firm edge for the bottom of the waist.
Now Sew on are manufactured in the alternatively until even with the top 1 of. then over each branch. Now baste the canvas on the material and fold over the edge stitch and baste to the canvas. and then at each side of the bow. 12 inches wide. pin the lining on easy. belt 2 inches longer than the waist Cut the Side Plaiters HOOKS AND EYES. any kind of We furnish a full instruction sheet with each machine. Sew through each ring three times. bottom . A.50 18 " " " " " 9 " " " " " " 5. Get the centre of the collar and pin to the centre of the back.00 24 36 48 " " "9 9 " " 9 7. Seams can be overcast or bound notches and press over a curved seam bound. Baste with a small stitch. having Pin up and down to dot 2 me et the end of line C and dot 1 1 meeting dot 9within 1 2 inches of dot 6> this will leave about /£ mc ^ w hich must be eased inch stitch. pinning the front seam on a direct bias from the point of the Pin the under arm smooth up to the back notch. with the upper in to the elbow. Trim the seams down to *4 inch and notch the front basting from the seams. giving the most fullness at the seam to the notch easy. Gather between the notches y4 nc h from the'end. to correspond to the waist. bill. notch at the top 2 inches from the back seam and 3 inches from the front seam. Draw up the gathers. Remove the basting. U. using a yi inch stitch. with the upper part next to the feed of the machine. Trim off and overcast. S. following widths ready for use. Prices as SLEEVE INSTRUCTIONS. Place the sleeve in. Draft the right side linin g skirt linings according to instructions. Join by placing dots 5 together and pin up and down in the tracing. Fn the canvas on the material and cut j£ inch larger all around. A waist is never finished without a belt. Place the hooks on the right end of the collar and the eyes on the left. or it can be gathered for about z inches under the point of the elbow. then slip stitch on to the neck of the dress. 9 yds long in frame $3. Baste the under part in the same manner. The fullness Never place the needle through the rubber. and even with the fold of the goods.00 " will " These machines material. seam in the same manner. then place the lining on the cloth right side up. Spread the rings in both hook and eye inch apart. First mark for hooks and eyes. Place the cloth on the table wrong side up. Fold the top of the sleeve down. the darts. Now baste the lining on. if measure and finish off j4 inch less than the waist measure by turning in each end and placing hook and eye so that the two ends will meet. Cut the lining the same size. City. N. Baste in the tracing with a First stitch the inside and then the back seam just inside the part next to you. Place the fold of the front the lower end of goods. then stitch it cross and lengthwise in order to give it firmness. Sew the French Accordion A % Button Making and Pinking Machines These moulds follows: % hook to the inside. Fold the lining on line and stitch inch from the edge. Catch down to the canvas with a long without catch ing through. beginning Baste the outside at dot 5» ar>d baste up and down.used double. beginning at the top and fell down. having the warp in each running the sami sleeve running the right way). Round off the seam at dot 5 an d 3 and 6 inches above and 3 inches below. in the French sleeve can be entirely removed by taking a dart at the elbow Place the lining way (the diagram shows the y ^ > (see dotted lines). through the tape. Turn in the edge all around. INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING SKIRT. face with lining inch deep. Shields should be tacked lightly firm back stitch. Then all hooks on the right side. on the material. then baste in the traced lines. Order direct from the VIENNA INSTITUTE 5 West 14th Street.50 " " plait 12. Then pin to the side body seams and cross stitch to the three seams. placing them I inch apart. then under the near line Aplace the eye on the next mark so that the bow will extend slightly over line ASew through the rings the same as the hook. holding it towards you. Pin the centre of the belt to centre seam in the back having the lower edge of the belt y% inch above the waist line. at Place the goods on the table up and see that they are perfectly smooth. put in properly. as that holds it firmly in position. this prevents slipping out or gaping in the front. baste through the center of the sleeve lengthwise with a 1 inch stitch. It is always best to sew the sleeve in with a top. Place a Face the bottom the same as the waist. Pin the lining on before cutting. with the bill even with the stitched line. Y. Pin from the front last dart. then baste top and bottom.00 18. Then pin around to the front.
00. turn in the top and fell down to the lining of the skirt. tack the bottom with a medium stitch.) To put the velvet on the bottom. seam to Place the bias side of the front to the selvedge of the first side gores pinning the down '4 inch from the edge. making it in the band 'X inch on each end. Turn the band 2 inches longer than the waist measure. THE FRENCH METHOD. Take the center of the front and pin in the double at the top. Baste the remaining parts in the same manner. seams in the lining open. beginning at the top and basting down and across the bottom. bear well on the iron when pressing so as to give a flat seam. is to seam the cloth and lining separately. having it run the same thread as the lining. Shape the canvas or hair cloth around the bottom. a '^ ' These both perfect tools. as it is when pin the corresponding seams together at at the top. rules are If marked you in inches to have all seams perfectly Stitch and to ncn stitch. The facing can be about 1 lA inches deep and finished firm across the bottom. —Care should be taken to prevent wrinkles forming on the material The price is 95 cents. 45 inches). with the bias side down next to the feed. Cut inch wide. cutting it from 6 to 1 2 inches deep (always make a lapped seam in any kind of stiffening. a line just outside of the basting guide the for expect do stitching. IMPORTED FRENCH SILVERED STEEL When the steels. from I o to 1 8 inches is best. always see that the thread of the lining and the thread of the goods run the same way. sew on by hand or machine and finish with one or Place hangers on each side of the inside of the belt. Extreme care must be taken not to stretch the bias edge. Baste through the center of the front with a inch stitch. draw each seam down evenly and pin y . stitching one side work you must have good up. pin firmly. dozen properly asby the gross $2. do this it is It is absolutely necessary best to have a long straight to rule (about ways. Pressing. Cut the stiffening to match each separate piece having the thread of the stiffening run the same as the thread of the goods. then catch to lining. the other Remove the basting and trim the seam evenly ready hinding or overhanding. Press the seams in both cloth and lining the same. (If a facing is desired. Now measure down the first seam inch more than the skirt measure and mark. Now turn up the bottom y^ inch and baste down. then the center of the back. Now pressing. a less expensive stay than a is whalebone desired we would spring advise French watch silvered They give perfect satisfaction to our customers. inches long. then cut the goods. fold the velvet over '4 inch and place it on the bottom so that it will drop y£ inch below the edge of the skirt. two large hooks and eyes. mark off 1 inch for the fly on the lift end. being careful that the stitch does not come through. per Take tape measure and measure down the center of the front the length of the front skirt measure and mark. Now lining stitch across the top without turning in. Cut the other gores in the same manner . Then pin the out SKIRT RULE In order to obtain perfection in stitching skirts skirt you should have a on the wrong side of the lining so that the stiffening will come beand the goods. open the seam well before placing the iron on . quite impossible to remove a wrinkle formed by the iron .In cutting the side gores place the straight edge of the lining even with the selvedge of the goods and pin fast and cut. prepay postage except in gross Price. Turn the skirt right side out and place on the table. then turn the velvet in at the top and fell down. in order to give a perfectly straight seam. the difference should be taken from the top of the skirt sloping from the point of the hips back. strapped with the lining about 1 inch wide so as to cover the raw edges of the The French method care to to finish a skirt taking make the . the bottom. This can be cut any desired width . Now baste. cut about 6 to 8 inches deep on the bias and stretch slightly at the bottom so as to prevent too much fullness at the top. side material tween the rule about 45 inches long. then baste at each side 2 inches from the edge. 25 cents. and mark down. They are very flexible and strong. Make the placket hole from 9 to 1 o inches long and face the opposite side to the fly which should be about 1 inch deep and finished in the double. Take one half of the waist measure from the mark and pin to the center of the front.) Shrink hair cloth and When hair cloth is used the lapped seam should be linen before cutting. When the back measure is shorter than the front. sorted. pin the skirt on the band easy on each side to the last gore. beginning at the top and fastening the thread off at the bottom 1 )A of skirt. The next seam (or directly over the point of the hips) should be one inch longer than the skirt measure make the remaining part of the skirt the same length. measure down the center of the gore the same distance and mark. Trim the bottom of the skirt inch longer than you have marked. The stiffening can be basted on the wrong side of the lining with a stitch 3 or 4. The back can be either gathered or plaited . y 1 We lots. using straight.
back) which is 6. tor will require three times skirt width of the full When The ruffles are used cut the the length. A 8 to drop 2 skirt is made by seaming is' the material and lining separately. starting at the center of the back 3 or 4 inches below the large joint in the neck and measure to the arm hole or where the arm hole should come. for a When silk lining is 1 used (which It most desirable skirt drop the skirt) it should be cut from skirt for knife inches shorter than the used. Now use a 46 bust and a 25 waist measure in drafting the front. outside material actual skirt length to allow tor hem. the top for placket. usually have a narrow back in proporwidth of back measure. Finish the balance of skirt as per previous DROP SKIRT. makes 46. which is 4. Use changes. to locate dot 12For instance take a 42 bust and a 25 waist measure. then each side seam. stitching on both edges to the band. and finish the balance the same manner. basting. stitch through the binding. if the width of back was 6. Pin the center at the top and then at the seams. or by a mistake on the part of the worker. The narrow bias strip. If canvas. Baste down the Now center of front with a of the to skirt in i inch stitch. (See instructions for blind stitching. holding the hair cloth easy so as to prevent stretching. A drop skirt should always be fitted before finishing. stitch to the lining i^ inch from the edge. Pin the stiffening around the bottom on the wrong side and baste top and bottom to the lining.) Place the band on the silk petticoat according to previous instructions. The diagram will show the corand draft line inch below dot 4ln the I 2 to dot Make line A 5. this should the center of the front of cloth even with the center of the front of the lining. ) length (according to the width of knife pleating pleating. Now arrange the skirt on the band of the petticoat in plaits or gathers as desired. Place hair cloth. To make a clean finish. curve in. each side. added to 42. allowing 2 inches should be cut 3 or 4 inches longer than the hem. this would indicate that the back should be drafted for a 36 bust and a 25 waist measure. and use this measure instead of 14. If hair cloth. Do not . Forms that carry themselves very erect tion to their bust measure. FOR THE NEW FRENCH FORM. Press the seams in the skirt and place the lining on the table wrong side up. Now pare off the cloth at the back seam even with lining the and at join the back seam and cloth together. which should be blind stitched over. Always measure neglect this. draft line B (> n the side form) beginning K rect draftings. leaving 9 or 10 inches open instructions. for draftings before tracing and cutting your linings. smooth the cloth down and pin in position so as to leave the lining easy. place a seam binding on Hat to cover the unfinished edge. VERY ERECT FORMS. being careful to have the cloth stretched sufficient make lining the lining easy. If you find alterations necessary they are usually caused by an error in taking measure in drafting. Take a Draft line E fr° m dot 2 to dot 5 In drafting the front take the difference between 42 (the actual measure) and 36 (the measure used in drafting the Now take 2/3 of 6. the instructions for very erect forms and make the following additional is When the front measure 2 inches longer than the back.upper edge of the hair cloth should always be bound with a be basted on very carefully. draft line 1 E (in the back) from dot under arm form the same length as line B in the side body. of the bust measure given in the instructions. as it is apt to sag around the hips and back. Measure up from dot 3) > n the under arm form) I inch less than the under arm measure and place dot 7» an d draft line B> extending inch below dot 3^ In drafting the front. lower the points of the darts 1 inch with the yi mark.
stretched. the front measure has been taken too long. Fullness on the shoulder. 19 alterations. be sure that the cloth is . This side ot the dart should always lining smooth over the be basted in easy. When Formerly 327 Fifth Avenue with the one shoulder high one. and hollow next to the arm. a it is because the lining has been Take small dart in the lining and then draw the outside material Grean Designer of Liadies' Costumes Models for And the and take out the extra fullness at the under arm seam. Trade COSTUMES TO ORDER East 33d Street NEW YORK Wrinkles are often caused by uneven stitching or too tight a tension on machine or the seams not being properly clipped. Pads can be made by cutting the lining the size required and place sufficient of cotton wadding to get the proper thickness. this will allow height of shoulders. Wrinkles between the last dart and the under arm form are usually caused bv the back seam of the dart being stretched. — Be very careful in taking the measure. To Avoid drafting structions is Alterations. is caused by high shoulders. use a enlarge. is lower than the other use pad to make it correspond For a flat one hip is high pad the other side. then tack the lining.' . sponges place it over the pressing board (which should be about 36 inches long and 20 inches wide) and press lengthwise of the cloth with a hot iron. If the arm's eye gaps in front.') the waist to drop and remove the fullness. it draw it in proper position on the form. To cloth obtain the most satisfactory results sufficient it is necessary to to permit ot select its an all wool (not dress goods) with a body being shaped to You cannot obtain the same effect in all cloths. All cloths for tailoring must be The most simple and effective sponged to prevent both shrinking and spotting. X ifie waist. longer than the cloth to be sponged. Draw out some ot the cotton at the edges to make it thin. near the neck. Open the shoulder seam and draw up the front to fit. in See that the in : properly done for and basted carefully stitching the traced lines. It the front draws in the same place let it out at the is — shoulder seams. this will necessitate the cutting off" of about 2 inch from line (J5 "iiit and see there we any Y If the waist. fold a small plait in the lining at the point of dart towards the arm's eye before basting the lining to the goods. Let out the under arm seam in most cases that will answer. over the table. the will y Lay fold) cloth the 2 y muslin yard from the end of muslin. If you find wrinkles in the back near the neck. It will be necessary to open the seam and full the lining a little more on the under arm form and baste the stretched edge easy back again to the under arm form. Read basting and with care and you will seldom have No. These pads can be a lined if desired. placing a cotton cloth over tbe goods to prevent scorching. When INSTRUCTIONS FOR TAILORING. some form with the iron. place the cloth on the muslin (leaving it in the Fold the end of muslin over the end of and roll it all together smoothly and let it remain for 6 to 8 hours. This change will necessitate an alteration in the curved seam joining the back. basting it is because the center back seam was not joined Rip the seam and make sure that the waist lines meet and that the directly in the tracing. Open the shoulder seams and draw up the extra fullness from the back. pad tacked under the shield. Remove the basting and draw the material tight over the lining. then fasten down changes necessary. To obviate this trouble always run a small thread around the arm's eye when the basting is done. For a French bias dart. draws to one side evenly. as it After removing the goods from must be thoroughly and evenly dampened. When the waist is loose over the bust. it is probably caused by a too long back measure. Should the front of the waist bind across the bust it is because the bust measure has been taken too tight. way to do do this is to take a piece of bleached or unbleached muslin 2 yard Wet it thoroughly and wring out well. (See instructions to locate the Open the seam at the point of shoulder. Wrinkles in the under arm form is usually caused by the front edge of the side body being stretched in basting to the under arm form. using an inch stitch. Fullness at the top of the last dart is caused by the lining being drawn too tight in seaming. layers catching the lining very lightly. bust the dress can be cut two bust numbers larger and use canvas and cotton to When a woman has a full bust. need much more pressing than others.
inch from the edge.) thoroughly dry before cutting. ) The canvas is now making pockets). b«fp the canvas on the cloth easy (see dotted lines in the diagram for creasing. from the dart to the under arm seam. going around in in diagram. Cut four pieces of cloth the same size as the canvas and join the back of the canvas and cloth for collar and facing separately. Stretch it out over the canvas. Draft stitch ( padding should be done by sewing a aid catching the cloth with invisible % The inch ) the Cut the canvas K inch larger all around the co'lar. then on the shoulder in traced lines and around the arm's eye y^ inch from the edge and in the traced lines down the under arm seam. particularly for a tailor those inexperienced. See instructions for pressing. It is best (i thoroughly experienced) for all light or medium weight cloth to use a soft cambric interlining in coat or jacket. this will hold the revere in shape and give a firm edge. beginning on line (J. using. to form a Crease the revere.i inch seam and press open. .) Place an extra strip of canvas on the left side. You may find it necessary to take a plait at the waist line. 1 facing to the revere facing from line A % inches of . The cloth front must be made to fit the linen foundation perfectly. then join the front at the under arm and shoulder with the seams out. stay for the buttons. ) it is well. using a wet cloth and hot iron. each side of the dart. continuing straight down the coat. as it is not perfectly shrunk until dry. including at the shoulder. (See waist instructions for tracing. leaving V2 inch at the edge (see diagram. Place the pocket in the r'oth before basting on the canvas. After stitching the back seams on the wrong side. When an extra foundation is required. Baste up the front and around the revere 3/± inch from the edge. seam V ' (see diagram for the shape of both.) circles Begin stitching at the point about inch apart (see dotted lines ready to be pressed into shape. or to place a in according to the figure. Cut and lap the regular dart seam. it will be necessary to use an extrathickness of canvas.) Baste a )4 inch tape around the revere and down the front. Place the center ot the collar to the center of the back (canvas up) and baste aovrd each side to line AStitch a 3. cut C t ting jacket and basting.) Stitch with the canvas up in the dotted lines. viiiii i/ y^ inch the cloth over the canvas each side of the basting. stitching the balance towards the collar according to instructions. to fit the before stitching. £ <i inch line mm S N ' $y \ • \ and pin and around the arm's eye and down the under arm seam. then across the shoulder. Use linen canvas for the front in the place ot interlining. You may find it necessary to stretch the canvas the reveres. length of the the collar Notch the facing at line A in the neck and to within also at dot 3. (Lap all seams in canvas. Press the seams open. ( See pressing. ( See pressing. on the outside of the canvas stitches the full shape of the revere. Baste up line A and around the neck. When the stitch. This will require judgment. beginning at the 1/ within around the stitch fold of the collar and for down the fold of the revere with an overhand . with a . e down A cloth is tight over the canvas dampen and stitch to fit. trim the seam of the lining close to the stitching and press the seams open over a curved seam board. basting in traced lines with Baste up each side of the dart to the shoulder. to allow for easing.) Stitch the dart in the cloth and press open. as a great deal of the fine work comes in here. ceasing it down as far as you may desire. Baste Pad the and forth collar the 'same as revere. half wav between dots 2 and 3. for Take the cloth and smooth stitch. including the dart seam and shape the canvas perfectly to the form. and the full length of the front. an additional piece of canvas or hair cloth can be added Baste the dart in the canvas. edge that joins the neck % inch apart.) Place a dart in the arm's eye. Use the small pad and dampen when fullness is to be removed (use a hot iron. left end and going back inch of the edge and end of collar. holding the edge easy to the tape. Remove 1 all fullness over the canvas by pressing. The canvas should be slightly eased on the cloth before padding to permit the reveres to roll over in position. cut and lap the seam. (See instructions % of dart. beginning about 2 or 3 inches below the point of the dart and extending to about 3 or 4 inches below the shoulder seam. to ) prepare pressing (see instructions for pressing) The facing must be cut ovtes Join inch longer than the front. Cut which should be thoroughly shrunk and pressed smoothly before the canvas and cloth according to the drafted instructions. and to extend from the :f the shoulder to the front of the dart.
line A the same below line A on the jacket. Baste across the center part of flap and stitch the edge to compare with the coat. the There price. FLAP POCKET.) Stitch the edge to correspond with the stitching on the pocket. Cut two pieces of cloth (running the same thread as the goods). starting in the center and cutting to within y^ inch from the ends and mitre the corner to the upper seam. with the canvas up.50 per year. Stitch the flap Baste one piece of lining close to the edge of flap tor pocket. Stitch the lining in the same a yfo inch seam. A. from Stitching deep and baste even with the bottom of the sleeve. the facing out. holding the facing easy to the end. rolling the edge slightly towards you and baste. Take across the part ot lining and baste to the back of the upper seam. See that the seam that joins the revere and collar together are placed over the corresponding seam in the jacket. which back can be 'lit The under with or without a seam. at any has more than double the other strictly circulation than any Fashion Journal. Remove the basting when the roll has been pressed. facing down. Arrange the facing over the creased roll in the collar and revere and baste with an overhand stitch. Shape the pocket lining on the wrong side. Press over a damp cloth. place the flap to the marked line on the coat. S. Shape the bottom ot the coat the length desired. Cut a bias piece of canvas 3 inches deep and stretch to fit the coat at the bottom and baste in. Cut is the silk lining for front large enough to allow a plait 1 inch deep. then baste the dot 3 on the shoulder. seamed and SILK LINING COAT. Stitch upper edge of flap on the right side for a finish. You can send sub scriptions direct to us or to the publishers. Turn up the bottom of coat }4 inch deep. canvas from the back at on the seam the right side. baste with strong cotton and a small stitch. Baste the small piece of cloth on the lining for flap and round off the lower front corner. but kindly mention that you in The flap is to be lined with soft canvas or heavy silesia. Cut the lining 4 ]/. arm shape and side forms are cut the same as the draftings (all parts of the lining placed from the top of the shoulder to. Open the back seam from 6 to 8 inches from the wrist up. stitch y^ inch from the edge all around (omitting the top). U. Place a damp cloth on the wrong side and the other press heavy. which should be \£ inch larger all around. working out the edge of cloth even with the edge of facing with the fingers. For cut. to easy to the break. Basie down the front of facing with a catch stitch to hold the facing in position on the canvas (see pressing. a saw the advertisement our Book. The . place on the machine. Cut the back end of the flap. basting the cloth easy to collar. trim y£ inch on canvas all around. published. by 2^4 inches. To stitch. the cloth a shade larger than the canvas and the facing shade larger than the cloth. one for the flap and one for the facing. break. the cloth a trifle wider than the canvas and trim the facing a trifle wider than the cloth. Baste with a y± inch stitch yi mcn h" "1 the bottom edge. Cut the canvas on the bias. also see that the corners are turned out well. upper part of canvas to correspond with stitching in the coat. Basting and Pressing Sleeves. dart for ease. City. the lower edge up. it will also seam the lining. beginning 3 3 inch from the end and slanting to the lower corner. Cut the pocket. and seam Trim the canvas close to the seam. arrange the facing by placing the back seam in the collar right side of facing to cloth.. Turn the facing over. Baste the flap to the facing. When basting over the edge of facing. is no better Fashion Journal for for pressing. placing edge of facing yi ncn outside of the edge of coat. Cut two pieces of lining 4 by 6 inches. then quite full for 3 or 4 inches Continue basting. VIENNA INSTITUTE 5 West 14th St. manner with Cut the with a yl inch seam fastening well at each end. See Instructions for Cutting. Join the sleeve and turn in the bottom yi mc h and catch to canvas. See instructions 2 /4 to 5 inches at — PUBLISHED MONTHLY. Place the button holes on the right side (see instructions for over the prevent tightness €lite Styles fashion Journal making button holes and putting on buttons') Subscription Price $1. 1 5 cents we will send a cambric model ot any pocket. this will avoid a heavy seam.. Trim the canvas close to the seam. Trim out each seam to prevent bulk. allowing for a plait 3/£ inch deep for ease. After pressing the fold in the collar and revere. the See that the collar facing extends below is distance that collar i facing along the revere. A bar tack should be placed on each end of the pocket. Trim of the seam and turn the flap down and baste the lining in the opening and baste down. Y. It general use. N.
Basle. the side directly body lining and place over line ful A Crease in the sleeve lining inch and pin at the back and front seam. ease Baste line A to Pin in position below the waist the seam. matching the other knot in the thread. Arrange the fullness around the top and pin in position all around and fell. Crease the shoulder at line Q and pin. the lining to the seam of the shoulder and to the seams on line P' n the siae form on. K in the back. Pin across the bottom. Be careful in drafting your linings. thread. Cut the thread close to the shank. are used sew through the shank. line. See that the waist the lines meet and that the remove the back and cut the body. keeping. a large pressing board about 36 inches long and 20 inches wide (for skirts. Now take the back and match it perfectly on the goods. Crease and pin the lining from the back to shoulder. Thoroughly dampen w\C: . to have the even. To form a shank draw up the button and twist the thread around twice very tight between the button and cloth. Place the button at the first Re pin mark. down the front and around the bottom.id a pattern of the curved seam board and pads with instructions for making. When shank of the button through. being careful to have not about the 3 inches from lining) Place the sleeve in the same as waist (omitting press.) Fold a plait in the center of the back and press to keep in position. Cut the back first. allowing )£ inch fullness across the form. Twist again and fasten the thread with two or three stitches through the shank and cloth. Take line Place the lining of coat over the seam and _. keeping the fold in the center by pinning every 3 or 4 inches. buttonhole to the opposite end. having it run Parallel on the under side with a shank ring oi hea. or twist double in sewing a button on. Pin the point of the dart to the waist line. Pin line K in the same manner.'/ buttons are to be used as a trimming thev should be sewed on Finish without forming a shank.) A large and a small Dad and a sleeve pad and a set of regular tailoring irons (for 50 cents we will sc. Fold the in the lining to within 'g inch of the bot tom of sleeve the sleeve. firmly taking a small always catching the stay and fasten the same as in the previButtons with wire shanks should be attached by piercing a small hole and placing the with the button hole. and pin and baste to the seam ready the lining for felling. catching the stay and being careful not to catch the facing. Finish pinning down the front. Slip the lining — Turn the lining right side out. up the back. Baste the under arm shape in the same manner. Now pin the side body lining fast and side Fold the right side over the left. or Shape the dart in the lining to fit the coat . the lining on the sleeve. then pin the shoulder and down the arm's eye. Notch for Basting Sleeve.should be cut )i inch higher at the top and I inch longer at the bottom and all curved seams should be clipped.) / implements. Kbeginning in the center at the waist line and pinning every 3 or 4 inches up the center. Turn and the sleeve right side out and place basting arourtd the top. Tack the lining at on the back exact. Plaids. Crease the lining even with line K. Buttons having holes the sewing in lines. Instead of making a When ous covered buttons stitch in the cloth. pin the lining at the top the dart. Turn the sleeve wrong side out. be sewed on loosely. placing the seams together. instructions. take a small stitch in the cloth. and do 4 inches apart. down from line Notch the seam at the waist To Match Stripes. Take a stitch across the twisted thread and back through the cloth. Pin the lining in position beiow the waist line. tack. Fold the plait in from the top ot the dart to the shoulder. Figures and Diagonals. Follow parts. move the goods. 2 inches and A Instructions basting. easing the lining up about \i inch. being very careful not to it. All canvas used in tailoring To work must be shrunk. Stitch' the seams y( inch inside of the the inside seam and press open. then across each side of the dart. the edge even. both faces up. do pressing successfully it is absolutely necessary to have the proper A curved seam board. Begin at the underarm seam and pin aiound the arm's eye across the shoulder and down the front as far as the top of the dart. move Place a pin through the The whole secret is to match this rule move the button Use linen thread should holes end of each from the pins. Pin up the under arm seam 1 inch in from line ECrease the lining at line an d P' 11 and baste. Now take the lining and replace it it above and pin down below the waist line. Fell all seams and the edge neatly. Ttr^. leaving the seams 3 or ^ inch longer at the bottom. being carewaist lines TO SEW ON BUTTONS. reveres are even at the top and that first buttonholes are directly over the stay. Pin the lining to the center back at the waif line .
a dry cloth  lining in the bottom of the sleeve pressing. 7 needle and No. 99 coat be pressed. so as to obtain a round effect. underside or . All coats should have the edges and reveres stayed with a narrow strip of linen or tape on the wrong side and it should be put on tight when shrinking is necessary. Take Muslin Tailor stitch % inch apart.) Do not press the fold of the col lar or revere fiat in any stage of the pressing. with the left hand raise the wet cloth against the iron. except the finished pressingPlace the collar on the Take the collar and dampen at both edges and stretch thoroughly by pressing well with sponge. hole stitch. Cut the button hole (which should be button ) than the diameter of the with button hole scissors. at the outside end Draw the needle through needle. pp. Where the side and the .1. Now insert the needle through the first button hole stitch. (Use this the revere along the fold and press in the same manner. pushing the needle half way through. use a thoroughly wet cloth and a very hot iron. this will force the steam directly on the shine. Go instruction the second time. In turning the end take 7 or 8 stitches and work the other side Pitches evenly.) When the sleeve is stitched in The the seam must be pressed open over the end of the curved seam board. the needle through and repeat over this end. in the instruction after facing the collar and revere. draw . with a hot iron. using a wet cloth and hot iron in order to remove all and give a fine finish. Never the press a curved seam over a straight surface or a straight seam over a curved seam Place the seams over the seam board perfectly smooth and Press slowly dampen and carefully. the twist coming at Continue in this manner. Insert the needle from the 3 4 threads from insert the end of the hole. When finished overcasting (in muslin begin button Insert the needle in the right hand end end) of the button hole. being careful to take the the top edge of the slit. See diagram No. Insert the needle again. of the button hole. Hold the end of the thread near the edge and inside the folded edge. the in first instructions. Remove the damp cloth and finish pressing over Before placing the continue. using judgment to press and wring out well and place over the sleeve and It is it into the proper shape. taking Draw the needle and thread through. should creases BUTTON HOLES. point towards you. board. . All pressing should be done on the wrong side. the edges in the shape required. To remove shine caused by pressing. begin at the left stitch the same depth as in overcasting. holding it in position with the thumb and second finger. Draw the needle and thread out at right angles with the slit. Wet a cloth press with a hot iron. For practice use a No. often (It necessary to press over several times before obtaining satisfactory results depends greatly on the kind of material. this forms the bar for button hole. Dampen well with sponge and press length of the seam with a sponge. . lay the wet cloth lightly over the shine. including the collar and revere. a thread or two from the first stitch. Nevr allow the weight of the iron on the cloth. collar Dampen Hold one end of the up and press Dampen form of a hoop. the stitched side up. take a strip of wet muslin and place over the edge of the facing and press. point from you. 40 thread and two or more thicka little larger nesses of cotton cloth basted together. left Then place the strip of cloth over the fore fingers of the hand. the the seams should be well pressed again. Overcast the button this hole.0 the end. taking care to include the bar.a sponge and board. Place the coat over the pad. being careful not to press out of shape. To press the facing on a coat. the point of the needle towards you. being careful to hold the barring near the edge. For that a finished sleeve should be slipped over the pad shaped for purpose. Now throw the thread under the point from right to left. at the inside Draw the . The entire finished pressing of the coat should be done over the large pad. taking same distance from the edge of hole as up an equal number of threads from the opposite side. full press lengthwise until dry over a large pressing board. hold the hot iron near the wet cloth with the right hand. bearing well in the iron to make a flat seam.^ it through and bringing it out on the opposite side.
Use No.the seam. ts/ . tor a running back stitch is used when you require a stronger seam than or stitch. use No. . drawing the thread through ^S^ @L ^52^ / and finishing on the wrong side. Diagram No. °3 used for seams of dress waists and where two or more Uneven basting is mostly used over large thicknesses of material is used. great strain on . of the thread to be used depends upon the quality of the work. Always pin carefully before basting. £ . the eye of the needle on the thimble. In even is In learning to baste take 7 needles (sharps. 50 thread and No. then hold the thread under the left thumb. a knot hold the end of the thread between the thumb and first finger of the right hand. Diagram No. Draw the needle out from right to left. taking up with the thread running between the third and little finger. pushing the needle nearly through. 103 shows back stitch. 9 needle.//„„:/ /// // ''fa / ^ M Diagram No. Take 1 inch long on surfaces and skirt seams and as a guide for stitching. 24 and 30. / way of basting upper side and inch on lower." : * . * ( If the materials are silk or velvet. Begin at the right hand corner and take stitch over tore basting. 101 and 102 shows even and uneven basting. #2 4 ' Take up two space between. use No: 5 needle 36 and 40. only one puckering. Hold the material over the left tore Insert the needle with the thumb and second finger. tnread and it No. ob shows a running back stitch. use No. 100 shows the different button THREAU Thread Thread Thread Thread Thread NEEDLES. 50 finger. I running 106 Djagiani ^o. press the needle gently between thumb and fore finger. peat in the middle and at the other end of the bar. and it is also used as'a gathering stitch for ruffles and tops of skirts. 7 needle. . 105 finger. barring meet. 90 and 100.) Careful basting prevents the seam or goods from basting make the stitch about l 2 inch long on either side. use No. Use No.RePlace the needle under the end of the bar. a little of the cloth with the needle. A  more yi inch stitches on the needle at one time witn /% inch Repeat beginning in the middle of the last stitch. 70 and 80.o and 60. repeat the stitch twice. RUNNING BACK STITCH. taking up a couple of threads. Repeat. ///AA. holding in place Diagram No. 20. This stitch is used when stitch there is no. . 105 shows on cloth. 8 needle. between the thumb and fore finger of the right hand. With the middle finger pull the loop to The size To make the end. Hold the material between the Use No. according to the size of Fasten the end by taking two other stitches over the last stitch. Hold the needle Place the thimble on the second finger ot the right hand. jj£ Diagrams Nos. 104 shows a halt RUNNING STITCH. BACK STITCH. at stitch a time. use needles instead of pins). Take even stitches the same as even thumb and fore finger of the left hand. stitch desired. this 50 thread and No. twist the end twice into the loop with the thumb. only smaller. 7 needle. the proper stitch. 7 needle. use No. 6 needle. wind the thread once around the end of finger.
Now place the needle through the end of the hem. 70 thread and No. being careful to make the stitches even. y± inch from the end of Pull the needle through. beginning at the center of front around to the back. 108 Use a No. or the space can be double the size of the stitch. M OVERCASTING. In starting a new thread. To fasten at the finish take two or three stitches over the last one taken. 109. fin In  the needle in the edge of fold. Hold the material along the edge and around the end of the left fore finger. 1 10 and I I 1 shows single and double gathering. first fold and mark the Use No. 40 thread and No. I I 3 shows gathering overhanded to the band. Trim the edges neatly before hand end of the seam. I I I . Continue taking the size stitch desired. If for a skirt. 1 1 2 shows gathering inserted in the band.To the width of form a hem. Shirring other. then fold hem desired and baste near the edge of the first fold (on woolen or the first soft materials baste narrow it fold also. turn the edge of the material J^ inch and crease. holding the end of the thread under the Now insert the needle at the end of the goods in the edge nearest to thumb. the stitch close and regular. the left GATHERING. Diagram No. the edge can be selvedge or creased fold. Continue in this manner. Double gathering is generally used on woolen materials and long stitches should be taken if there is much fullness. 8 needle. 8 needle. Overcasting is done bv taking a a slanting stitch over the raw edge of goods to prevent ravelling. number or rows at the desired distance from each The gathering can be drawn up on the threads or bv cords run between 1 Mark he rows. point from hem.. Draw up the thread to the size of the band and fasten around a pin. taking up two or three threads. Diagrams Nos. Diagram No. Draw the needle through. holding the end 1 07 under the thumb. Make through both ends of goods. To overnand is to join the edges of cloth together. Do not make the stitch tight. holding in place with the Hold the hem over the first thumb and second finger. In starting the seam. inserting the needle in the edge nearest to you and the end. A and gathering stitch is to take up several stitches on the needle having the space stitch equal size. Diagram No. keeping it in place with the thumb and second finger. Always cut. 70 thread and Begin at overcasting. you. Hold the work over the fore finger of the left hand. In using a double gathering be careful to. I 09 No. 7 needle. Draw the needle through and place it you. is done by making the required several rows of gathering directly under each other. Use No. taking up two or three threads of the cloth. 108 shows an overhand seam with needle in position. OVERHANDINC. never ot the thread break the thread. Gather the other side in like manner. Take a slanting stitch J<fj inch deep and }£ inch apart as shown in diagram No. of the front. 14 shows the shirring and stitch. being careful to make the stitch even. the needle pointing towards you. needle pointing towards the left shoulder. 107 shows the stitch needle in position. take up two or three threads of the cloth and the same of the fold. Take thread the length of l 2 the width of skirt at top Insert the needle on the wrong side and run an even stitch to the center of the center / front. Diagram No. ) ger ot the sert left hand. Diagram No. hold the two ends between the thumb inch from and fore finger. place the end 01 the previous thread under the hem and start as beginning. have the stitch directly under the first.
10 shows bias strips cut and how to join. 8 shows the Kensington Figure No.leedle in position. Start from the right. Figure No. 1 1 5 shows a fell with needle in position. stitch with the needle in position. with the needle in position. 6 show different styles of arrow heads in the TO MAKE A CORRECT BIAS. taking a small seam with a running stitch. the needle placed that the inside section of the outside is caught to the under pieces. the edge and crease the bias fold Take the corner of the goods and fold over so that the end and cut. 2 represents a is to a hem. Place the edges evenly. fell is A Join the y ^ FRENCH SEAM. 4. 3. a seam hemmed down and is used principally for underwe». See diagram needle in position. Figure No. The needle is set for a stitch in the for a similar stitch in the row and then lower row. Figure No. Fold the right sides together and crease at the seam. Fold the seam towards you. See diagram . stitch is shows an ordinary catch stitch used to fasten down edges. /& Pea' 2 of the seam next to you. 1. In making a rolled hem and attaching folds to garments. take up 1^ inch of the edge of the fold. 5 shows the same stitch used to finish a hem. Figure No. This is used when a more desired. 5 and process of making and finished. 2. This is also known as a herring bone or briar stitch. keeping an even line. jJLIND OR SLIP STITCH. This stitch is used for fastening the roiled and invisable hem to attach folds to garments. Figure No. 1 worked from right to left. then stitch second seam with a halfback stitch. Diagram No. 3 shows a single feather stitch. seam to be felled 3 inch deep with a running back stitcn. The fell can also be made by placing the inner edge }i inch below the other. This stitch is worked lengthwise. See diagram needle in position. then to the left. elaborate stitch double feather stitch. also the milliner's fold. will be even with IJ 5 . is so Ficure No. so that the raw edges are enclosed.FELL. For invisable hem take up one or two threads of the cloth and before drawing the needle out. 9 shows the chain Ficures No. turning under yi of the broad seam to make a narrow hem. LI 2 A French seam is made by taking a very narrow seam with the wrong sides of the materials together. and then turn the wrong sides towards vou. stitch Figure No. The uppe. Diagram No. 7 shows the anchor finished. 4 shows the same stitch applied and finished with the stitching. The latter is turned to the right side See diagram needle in position.
then mark a second tuck the same as the first. Continue in this manner until the desired num ber of tucks are finished. Now fold the goods on the line of a thiead at the desired location of the tuck. Use No. as the hem on edge cannot be well finished ready for gussets. Cut Turn in the opposite side wide and 1 inch longer than the opening. The opening is from 5 to 10 long and usually placed in the center of the back seam. Be careful that the fold is laid evenly to the bottom. At the right of the opening make a hem 3^ inch wide. Cut first notch on paper the width of tuck desired.of the garment. . Move the paper 1 inch to the left and mark again and continue until tuck is finished. right side over on the left hem. Put a row of stitching across the bias fold of gusset after set in. forming a plait the width of the large hem. Attach the fly to the under edge of the fold and sew it on with a running back stitch. Always tack plait For a double box plait. A and cut gusset as is a piece a stay in an desired. For box plaiting begin at the center. Fold the At the left make a 1^ inch hem. a of cloth cut in the shape of a triangle and used to enlarge. plait. A placket in children's cloths shou:d be from 4 to 6 inches long. the width desired. It can be cut any size opening at the end of a seam. 7 needle and No. Fig. never into a rent made by cutting down. Turn the fly I in the right side of the opening the width of the seam to the top of the 14 skirt. folding the plait under at the right and then at the left. Only press when a flat plait is desired. First fold the edge of goods under the width of the edge three times the width Then measure fold and bring meet the edge of the under fold and tack at top of plait. Should space be desired between the tucks. Tack the fly across the bottom on the wrong side with a back stitch wi f hout catching through. J A inches placket is an opening is made in a skirt. Tacking each plait to keep in place for pressing (pressing must always be done on the wrong side). plait desired. the full length. fold in another plait at each side. Fold the J^ to lining in 2 inches inch from the edge and fell down to the cloth. Cut a second notch three times the width of tuck from the end of paper. Now baste or stitch the same as first tuck. It is sometimes formed in the seam. bringing it to a point at the bottom. this will allow the rucks to meet. of cloth the same width as the seam. 7 ake a piece of stiff paper 3 or 4 inches long and I inch wide. Fasten with a small back stitch to the end of the opening.TUCKING. the distance required must be added to the second notch. this forms a knife plaiting. 60 thread. in Take the fold. Turn the lining in towards the fly and fell down as on the opposite side. Now baste or stitch the tuck. Continue in this manner for the number of plaits desired. piece of cloth 2 by^2 inches and fold to form a triangle and Always set a gusset into a seam. To make a second tuck place the end of the paper on the edge of the first tuck and mark at the second notch through the single of the goods same as in first tuck. the left from of Now edge back to in fold at the top Co keep in position. When less fullness is desired a space can be left between the plaits. or it can be cut in the middle of the width. then crease in rhe marked line. A to plait is a fold generally placed lengthwise of the goods. A tuck is a fold made in the material for a trimming. Place the end of paper on the edge of the fold and mark with pencil or pin at the first notch.
both piles Sponge all woolen cloths before cutting and making up. not through the rubber. The warp crosswise. as it will work lighter. never with cotton or linen thread. Select thread or silk a shade darker than the material. IO The In slightest deviation from your measure will often spoil the garment. threads of a cloth run lengthwise. heat a pressing iron c?0 Place a wet cloth over the iron and hold the material hold it bottom up. split a sheet of cotton wadding and goods with the rough side next to the goods. Always cut. Always interline velvet with fine crinoline. tacking shields care should be taken to catch in the binding. Cloths and all other wool fabrics should be made with the nap or pile running down. material Folds or creases in fabrics must be removed before the is made up. otherwise the garment will This applies to all changeable goods. Clip all selvedges or cut off entirely before sewing. being careful not to mar or the work. known agents to remove grease spots or soil if piece^of white cotton cloth under the spot or garment Place a properly used. Apply with a soft piece of white muslin. Baste velvet with sewing silk. For Henrietta cloths and lining light and baste between the weight silks. The filling or woor runs The look as pile or if two shades had been nap should always run the same way. Hold together. When soil taking out stitches pick one out at a time. rub with a dry cloth untiL all dampness is removed. used. Defects in the form should be overcome by padding. Never piece a skirt at the top to lengthen it.Velvets and plush should be made with the nap or pile running up. After the spot is removed Naptha or benzine are the best Do not have any fire near. To hot. to be cleaned to prevent stain marks. remove creases in crapes and velvets. place or e . cashmeres and Henrietta cloths. Use an extra piece of velvet. velvet lightly when sewing. down to the wet cloth so that the steam will be forced through. never tear the goods. never break it. Always cut the thread.
Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on line B.BOY'S SHIRT WAIST. Dot 2 . and place dot 2 Draft lines A fr° m line NECK TABLE. l A and B /z inch from the edge and end of cloth.
Draft lines line A from line NECK TABLE. and point of curve inch in from dot 7 on line E. F and G. 2. Measure Measure 1 y£ inches on line C zi/^ inches out line B from dot 2. Measure I inches more than y( of the waist measure on line G from dot 8. to dot 3. Measure 4'. Draft line G from dot 8. Measure I inch in from dot 4 on line B» and place dot 5. Place letter H on dot 10 and draft line J to dot 12. and place inches straight out from dot 2. B % A dot. Dot 2 . Draft line j) from the end of line C to dot 4. Take measure the same children and omit taking the front measure. BACK. and place dot 3. and place dot 2. A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. Draft line E from dot 5 to dot 6. H H. BOY'S COAT. MEASURE 8 YEARS. Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye. and place dot 4. Measure the length of back on line A from dot 2. from line A. and draft line F end of line ]). on line from line B. to dot 9. 1/ n NECK BAND. and place dot 6. D ^ f£\ rg on dot 5 and on dot 6 and Allow y£ inch for seams on Place letter Place letter Q Q draft line draft line lines F G to dot 2. Measure the distance given in the neck table under dot 2 on B. Bust "Vaist _ 2 . and place dot 8Measure straight down from dot 1 the length of under arm and place dot 9.Measure place dot 7 i inch more than y£ of" bust measure on line E from line A. and place dot 10to the Place the ^ # Draft line H from dot 7 to dot 10. _ _ >ack 23 I2 i^ r . Draft line K straight in from dot 12 as for to line A. Measure /£ inch on line from dot 4.inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot Measure )£ inch out from dot and place dot 12. Draft lines A C and Measure Draft line yi the shirt neck measure i% inch from the edge and end of goods.
Place the point of curve on dot ^ and draft line E to the end of line D. Q J straight out Place letter Draft line on dot 7. and draft line from dot 9. inches below dot 8. beginning 6 inches Extend line Q to meet line A. Measure the length of" back down line A fr° m dot 2. H from dot 9» BOY'S COAT. dot 8. one inch from the end of cloth. and place dot 9. FRONT. H to dot H. and H. and place dot 10. Dot 2 . Measure Ijt inch more than the distance between dots 8 and and place dot 12Continue line H from dot 11 to dot 12. B Measure the distance given and place dot 2 in the neck table under dot 2 °n line A fr° m '> ne XECK TABLE. Measure the length of coat on line A from dot 2. Draft line A B Draft line 2 inches from the edge of cloth. 5 Measure 2 inches less than i^ place dot of waist measure on line F fr° m dot 8. and place dot 8. Measure j£ inch on line F from Draft line Q. Draft line F straight out from dot 8. below dot 2 and draft to dot 10.
draft To coat double breasted. Cut the collar on the biasot the material.. Measure . inch straight out from dot 4 straight out from dor the arm's eve measure inches less than % 5 3 Meat " Measure 2% inches down Measure 3/ inch down line Measure finches less than on P. Measure . BOY'S COAT SLEEVE. „i ^Measure' V.. Cut on lines F and Gfor seams on lines E and H ) UNDER SLEEVE.ghr out draft line "'plirtht !) pit of curve on dot 9 and D to dot 10 NoteTo place dot 10 measure % place dot 10ure eft line D from dot 7 and ^ >« s than * °f arm ' S ^ "^ .  M Allow Xt inches Mow /inch (See diagram on the lower end of sleeve for facing. D from hne B. and place dot 8 inches down line of arm's eye measure on hne than inches more „ % D from dot . . B. the distance . inch straight out less Measure % .l length of sleeve dot from line A from dot 4 and place dot 7 A * 7 and place dot 8 from dot 8. m the end ot cl ? th. and the hand  ' less thin the measure around on hne B rrom hne C Measure ? . and place dot 2inch on line measure on line less than the hand in ^ inches fr° .inch P than % the length of sleeve on me A . 7. 4 on line A. Draft line Draft line A % B % ' Measure Measure place dot 3 i 2 from the edge ot cloth. .. and i Measure Measure l% and place dot 5•. point of curve on dot 9 and Place the dot 9 dot 11 and draft me G to point of curve on Place the on dot 6 and draft line H to dot 1L Place letter S dot &. on dot 6 and extend line H to Place letter D U \% from dot 79 inches straight out from dot 7. and . and Drzft line C from dot less 2 to dot 3 Measure . j„„ the back and place dot 13. . . inch from dot 4 and place dot 5from dot 5 of arm's eye measure straight out than % "Ivlt^ place dot 7 inch more than V 2 the length of sleeve from dot ... Draft line Draft line I Measure Measure \ Inches A. UPPER SLEEVE. H I 9 d Placer ton l! 4 curve on dot 14 and i3. and place dot 3 Draft line cloth A % inch from the edge ofot cloth % inches from the end B place dot 2inch up line A from line B. follow the dotted lines. A inches B from hne A. and Draft line A Measure . from id line .. and i* m between dots Measure down line H from dot 9. inch straight down from draft line E to dot 5Place letter S on dot 2 and extend line E to dot 8^ Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line F to dot *.inch from dot 2> to dot 3. and place dot 9the from dor 7 arm's eve measure stra. the ed g e of the end of line draft line J to ^ PlLe" lines S hr h °pofn t O this tit on J and draft to the junction of G and A. the length of sleeve on hne less than % A . between dots inch more more than the distance Measure down from dot 8 . and place dot 9j i i dot 10 and place dot \\. „ from line B.
th's over the point of shoulder smooth. Neck. — Around of S/eeve. Measure 3^ inch on line B fr° m line A> and place dot 2' Measuie l 2 inch less than of the waist measure on line B fr° m doc 2» and place dot 3Measure 6*4 inches down line A fr° m ne B> ar d place dot 4Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line C to dot 2.—¥rom hand Hand. inch on line f rom une B> and place dot 22 inches on line B from line A. dot 6 and extend line F to dot 3 2 and draft line E 5 and extend line to dot 5 E Allow Allow 1 J/£ (See diagram). Measure up line A fr° m dot 5. Cut the collar on the bias of goods.Place the point ot curve on line D z inches rrom dot 9 and draft to dot 8 (See diagram). BOY'S KNEE PANTS. . —Take —Take measure Buck. — Around Waist. 10 13 _ Hand Length of Coat 17 7 21 TO TAKE MEASURE FOR BOY Chest. MEASURE FOR BOY Chest Waist Back 8 YEARS. 1 Eye. and place dot 3 A 3/jj A C 1 from dot 2 inch more Measure place dot 4 to dot 3than l/ of neck measure on line 2 A trom dot 2> and Draft line Place letter D 3 inches straight out H or dot 3 and draft > from dot line 4 and dot 5 place dot 5 E to Measure \i inch out from dot 4 an d draft a slightly curved line to meet line A 2 inches Line E from dot 4. the bare the point shoulder to wrist. the tight. rather snug. — Measure from back Under Arm. and place dot Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 6. Draft lines i / ^ '> Draft line D straight out trom dot 5. 7 * Measure lA inch on line D from dot 5 a "d place dot 6. inch seam on lines E and FCut on line D BOY'S COAT COLLAR. the large joint in the ot the neck to the waistline. this well the arm down to the waist line. — Take measure up under —Take measure around Arm' neck smooth. 25 23 \z)/ z 5 z ]/ Under Arm Neck Arm's Eye Sleeve. Measure down line A from line B> the outside leg measure. A and B '2 ncn from the edge and end of cloth. Draft lines Measure Measure Draft line and B J^ ' ncn fr° m the edge and end or goods. S COAT. the inside leg measure. extending inch below dot 61 3t=S=lf . this this measure around the chest smooth not tight. and place dot 5. y^ inches on the lower end tor facing. sews on the coat. Place letter Place letter Place letter Place letter S S S G on on on on dot dot to dot 8dot 6 and draft line P to dot 1 Q.
Draft line G from the end line E to dot line Place letter Place H on dot 10 and draft H to dot 8. C from dot 5. Place letter D on dot 1 1 and draft line K to dot 8. . inch in towards line from dot 8from dot 2 to the end of line G. )A inch less than % the measure around the knee from dot 6 and dot Measure I inch straight down from . Measure z inches up line J from line F. the corner of square on dot 3. than j{ of the hip measure on line F from dot 7. Draft line E from the end Measure I line (J. inch less than the outside leg measure on line from dot 2. 7 and draft line F Measure 6 inches down Draft line G Draft line H J Measure yt. Place letter on dot 15 and draft line to dot 13. the short arm on line B. and draft of D to dot 5. and place dot H. Measure Measure Measure Place line inch on line C I }( inches from dot + inch ' 3 on line from dot 2 and place dot 4. measure up from dot 10. the short arm on dot the distance of outside leg measure. Draft line C 1 from dot 2 to dot 3. in Measure the distance given the table (according to waist measure) on line A from line B and place dot 2. 4 on line (J. Draft lines A and B '_> inch from the edge and end of cloth. % inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot 7. and place dot 5.of" 9 and 10. place dot 10. Measure inch more than 2 % 2 y of the measure around the hips on line K y and place dot 14 the measure around the knee from dot 1 down from dot 14 and place dot 15. the corner of square on dot 6. zi/i Dot 2 Waist Measure ^A 22 23 *H 24 25 line 20 21 inches 3/4 26 27 28 29 Measure 1 % more than % of waist measure on B from line A and place dot 3. Place letter C on dot 17 and draft line to dot 13. Place letter on dot 12 and draft line L to meet line F 2 % inches below M H line K. and 1 A A place dot 9Draft line straight out Measure the length of Draft line inside leg from dot 9.1 line J in from line F. Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 16 and place dot 17. line F from dot 4. and place dot H. down Place the corner of square on dot 4. and place dot 8. Measure }4 inch place dot 8. and place dot 6. Measure \]/ inches more than 2 from line F and place dot 13. line A from dot 9 and piace dot K straight out Measure J^ inch 0. and draft line J straight down to line F. Measure 1 inch straight down from dot and place dot 12. from dot 12 to dot 15. 1 Measure inch straight Draft line Dfl H N K Extend line Q from dot 17 to dot 3.1 Draft line F straight out less from dot 7. BACK. Measure 2 inches in from dot 13 on line and place dot 16. and Measure place dot 9. the edge even with line D down 4^ inches.
Place letter K on dot 14 draft line extend line S to dot Place the corner of square on the junction of lines R 12. — line the length desired. B beginning 8 inches from dot (j Measure 3 \? inches less than \c of the chest measure on line D fr° m dot Q. Measure lj^ inches straight down from dot \\ and place dot 12. FRONT. and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 3> the edge on line A» a "d measure down the length of front measure less the length of line C > n the back and place dot 8Measure lA inch less than 'i of the waist measure straight out from dot 8. Measure J^ of the neck measure on line A from line B. Around the knee snug. A from A line B> ar. the inside leg measure from the crotch the length desired. MEN'S SACK COAT. an d place dot 2Measure inch less than 2 the neck measure on line B from line A> an d ' l > ' place dot 3 Measure Measure 1 inch in from dot 3 an d ' Ys. the edge on dot 9 and X Place letter p lace letter H A straight from dot 9. the Place the small point of the curve on dot a nd 14 and draft to meet line S (Use round curve. the hip measure snug. 34 I o 18 Outside Leg Measure Knee 11^ TO TAKE MEASURE FOR KNEE PANTS. on dot 9 an d draft to meet line B }i inch out from dot 7. and place dot 9Measure J^ inch more than the length of coat on line A fr° m hie B. Draft lines A an d B lA ncn from the edge and end of goods. and B. Place letter B on dot 15 a nd draft line S to meet line D 2 inches in from 1 V on dot 12 a nd draft line Q to dot 3R straight down from the end of line Q to line BJ inches on line R from line D. Take Take Take the waist measure easy not tight. line R. on une E 8 inches from dot 10 a nd draft line F to dot 8Measure the length of shoulder on line B from dot 3 a nd place dot H. an d place dot 10Place the corner of square on dot 10 a nd draft line E "straight out. on dot 15 a nd draft to meet line T 4 inches below line B . inches straight ar d down and place dot 4 1 inch straight out from dot 2 pl a ce dot 5 Place letter F on dot 5 dot ar>d draft line C t0 dot 4 Place letter C on 4 an d draft to dot 3 Measure V? of the arm's eye measure on line Place letter \J on dot 5 an d draft to meet line 4 inches below dot 8Place the corner of square on dot 6 an d draft line straight out 8 inches. Outside leg measure from waist Knee. 8 YEARS. d place dot 6. 24 Leg Measure .) BOY S KNEE PANTS MEASURE. an d place dot 13. Waist Hips Inside . Place letter R Place letter Draft line 1 Measure 1 Measure inch less than y± of the arm's eye measure straight in from do 13 a nd place dot 14Measure ^4 inch straight out from dot 13 a nd place dot 15. .
the easy the collar. and place dot 3. Back 20 10  Under Arm Shoulder. the the point of shoulder snug. and measof chest measure and place dot 13. 6. Measure / inch less than }( of the arm's eye measure straight down from 2 11 and place dot 12. 6 14 18 Neck Arm's Eye Length    29 . dot % K TO TAKE MEASURE FOR COAT. Measure the length of back measure on line A fr° m 'i ne B» and place dot 4. Place the point of curve on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. Chest Waist. the MEASURE FOR COAT. Place letter M on the end of line F and draft to dot 16."^Around to waist line. 4. above the hips. Chest 1. 7. tape line against the neck to point of shoulder. to the waist line in front. to point Third. of — From hand. First. under the coat. COAT SLEEVE. tight. — Around arm below elbow — Around hand width point shoulder to point of elbow. Draft lines A and B ' ncn from the edge and end of goods. —Around the chest. Place the long arm of square on line A. Front 35 3 1 23 . Place letter P on dot 13 and draft line Continue line K straight to the end of line D.the Measure the distance between dot 10 and the junction ot' lines D and K in back and then measure that distance down line T fr° m dot 15 and place dot 16. l Measure /> inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from ' line A. the width desired. to dot 5. — From snug up under snug — Hold Shoulder — Around neck above Neck Arm's Eye —Around arm over Front J. SACK COAT BACK. Fifth. desired. below dot 4 and draft to meet line A below dot 2Measure 6^ inches on line B from dot 3. Place the corner of the square on dot 3» tne edge on dot 10 and draft line H the length of shoulder and place dot l H. easy not too tight. — From on back of neck neck — From Back Under Ann 5. Second. (usually from 27 to dot 5 30 inches) on line A 8 from Draft line inches D straight out the distance Place letter }ff on line A 1 % inches between dots 4 and 5. Measure onefifth of the waist measure straight out from dot 4 and place Measure the length of the coat line B» and place dot 6. shoulder the width desired. Measure 6 inches straight down from dot 9 and place dot 10. the short arm on dot 12. Measure y> inch on line A "" om line B» and place dot 2. 8. ure lV inches less than Place the point of curve on dot 13 and draft line J to dot H. and place dot 9. the arm to waist line. joint joint in Waist 2. of elbow — From — Around arm below Fourth. take this measure easy not too the waist.
to dot 3. Place the point of curve on dot 1 Measure Draft line l ~ inches straight 9 and down from draft to dot 12. point of curve on dot 7 and draft line F to dot 9. Measure 4 inches on line A fr° m dot 7 and place dot 8. B from "line A^ Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3 Measure 2 inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist on line A fro* line B> and place dot 4Measure 3 + inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5Measure inch more than '4 the second measure around arm straight out trom dot 5 an d place dot Q. Place letter Vf on dot on dot Place letter 9 and draft line draft line G to dot 6. 1 inch on line inch less A to from y C than A the B> and place dot 2hand measure on line B from line A> and Draft line from dot 2 Measure yi inch more than line dot 3. Measure 2 inches straight out from dot \\ and place dot 12. line X Measure Measure place dot 3. Place letter on dot 5 and draft line D t0 dot 2. and place line Measure I inch more than )/ the first measure around the arm on 2 from dot 8» and place dot 10Measure 3 inches on line from dot 7> and place dot \\. 15 Elbow to Wrist 10 Around Arm Below Shoulder Around Arm Below Elbow 16^ 1 5 *4 Around Hand 12 . Draft lines A 2 and B '2 inch from the edge and end of goods.COAT SLEEVE. F A Place the point of curve on dot 7 and draft line Q to dot 12. Place letter on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 2Measure 6 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line A from dot 4» and place dot 7Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7Measure 5 ]4 inches on line A from dot 7» and place dot 8l y W Draft line F J straight out Measure dot 9. the measure from elbow to wrist on line A fr° m and place dot 4. place dot 13. Measure 3/g inch straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Measure 2 j4 inches less than 14 the first measure around the arm straight ou: B W from dot 8 an d Place the place dot 9. Measure 6 inches less than the measure from shoulder to elbow on line A from dot 4 and place dot 7. Shoulder to Elbow . 3 of the first from dot 8measure around the arm on line F from dot 8. dot 10 and 13. A and B Yz inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure I inch on line A from line B» and place dot 2Measure J4 inches more than \4 the hand measure on line and place dot 3Draft lines I . Place letter T on dot 9 and draft line H to dot J from dot 13 to dot 6. M 6 and H MEASURE FOR COAT SLEEVE. Place letter S on dot 5 and draft line E to dot 7. Measure \4 inch less than y? the second measure around the arm straight out from dot 5 and place dot Q. / UNDER PART OF COAT SLEEVE. Place letter W on dot 6 and draft line K to dot 3.
l A and B /\ inch from the edge and end of goods. and place dot 2Measure inch less than y^ of the neck measure on line B from line A. Place letter on dot 13 and draft line S to dot 8 y D Place letter Measure 1 2 inches in y on dot 13 and continue line S to dot on line S from dot 8 and take H. and place dot 2. Draft lines y A from line Draft line Measure Measure 2 inches y Draft line from dot 2. VEST— BACK. inches and draft line D Measure 3 straight down from to dot 6dot 6 and 3^ inch straight out and place dot 7Place letter F on dot 7 and draft to dot 6 2 and measure straight out 2 inches more of chest measure and place dot 8Place the corner of square on dot 6 and measure straight out 1 y. Measure I inches more than y^ of the neck measure on line B. and draft line to dot 4 VEST— FRONT. Place letter (J on dot 1 1 and draft line Q to dot 3Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 8 and place dot 12Measure 2 inches straight in from dot 12 and place dot 13. and place dot 6 y of the arm's eye measure on line A h"°m line — . Place letter on dot 7 and less draft line F to the end of line E Measure Measure 1 1 inch than the shoulder measure on line B from dot 3» and place dot 10. inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot \\.COAT COLLAR. and place dot 2Measure of neck measure on line B» from line A» and place dot 3. Place letter K on line E 4 inches from dot 3. inchet more than j£ of waist measure and place dot 9the Place corner of square on dot than y Place 10 letter 3 B N Q on dot 9 and draft line E from dot 8 to \\/> inches below dot 9. Measure inch on line A from line B. from dot 2» and place dot 4. and measure down from dot 3 the length of front measure less the length of line (J in the back and place dot 6Place letter dot 5. Measure 3 3^ inches on line B from line A» and place dot 3. A id B inch from the edge and end of goods. and place dot 8Place letter Q on dot 8 and draft to meet line A }4 the length of back up Draft lines y y from dot 8 Measure 2 inches more than B. and % inch straight out and place Draft lines ' y ^ y 4 to dot 5Place the corner of square on dot 3. A and B /'i inch from the edge and end of goods. Measure y% inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4Place the point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3Measure 3/jj inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4Draft from dot 4 to meet line A 5 inches below dot 2Measure the length of back on line A from dot 2. the edge on line A. and draft line x inch down from dot 2 on line E from dot 3 to the end of line (J C 3 V? inches straight out on line C A D F to dot 4. a dart y inch and finish inches in. and draft line C to dot 3Measure 3^ inch down line A from dot 2. and place dot 3Measure inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4Place letter E on dot 4. Draft from dot W on dot 5. Measure 2 L ch less than ]A of the arm's eye measure on line A from line B. y.
the chest under the coat. FRONT. neck to waist line. and place dot 2Place letter P on dot 2 and draft to meet line A 7 inches below line BMeasure the outside leg measure on line A from line B. Under Arm Shoulder. i" cn n om tne e<^8 e ano en<* °^ goodsA and B Measure 2 J 2 inches more than Y of the front measure on line A from line B. just a smooth measure. —Around the neck above the collar easy.— — Hold Chest 1.. MEASURE FOR VEST. Front J. A. . to dot 13 (Use the round edge) Place letter K on dot 13 and extend S to dot NOTCHED COLLAR. Snug from under the arm to waist line. the tape line snug against the neck and measure to the joint in point of shoulder. Q Y Place the point of curve on dot ^ and line draft line S \\.— Around the arm over the point of shoulder snug. — Around — Around — From Back — From Under Arm j. not too tight. and place dot 3Measure 1 inch straight out from dot 2 and place dot 4Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line C t0 m eet line A 8 inches from dot 2Measure 3 inches up line A from dot 2 and 3 l/ inches straight out and place 2 Draft lines Y '  Y dot 5Place letter M P on dot 3 and draft line D 1 to dot 5 Draft line E from dot 4 to dot 5 Place the corner of square so that the inch mark will rest on lines D and E.fy^. the edge of curve on dot ^ and draft draft line E to dot ^ from z Place letter letter Hon dot 8 and less F to the end of line E Measure Measure inches than the shoulder measure on line B fr° m dot 3» and place dot \Q. Arm' s . Waist 2. waist under the coat easy. Draft line inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot from dot 3 to dot H. 14 18 TROUSERS. and place dot 2Measure 2 inches on line B from line A. 4. TO TAKE MEASURE FOR VEST. Chest Waist Front 34 30 23 Back 20 . joint in back of neck to waist line in front. Neck 7. 2 a 2 and draft lines and G (See diagram). and place dot 3 Draft line C straight out from dot 3Draft lines A and B V2 inch from the Measure 1 Y inches on line B from line . end and edge of goods. " 10 6 Neck Arm's Eye . Shoulder 6. than 6 and measure straight out of the chest measure and place dot 7Place the corner of square on dot 8 and measure straight out than of waist measure and place dot 9 Place the corner of square on dot I Y inches mo*e Y I Y Y inches more cl B Place letter line H Q ' Y? inches below dot 9. Measure 2 inches straight up from dot 7 and place dot 12Measure 2 inches straight in from dot 12 and place dot 133 % H. .
Measure 3 incnes straight out Place the corner of square on dot from dot 3 and place dot 44 and draft line D to meet line A 8 inches below line BMeasure up Draft line dot 6Draft line from dot 3 the length of inside leg measure and place dot 5from dot 5fr° m dot 3» and place Measure the distance from knee to bottom. and draft line extending 3 inches above dot H. and place dot 10 Measure 4^2 inches on line H from dot 8 and place dot H. Place letter P on dot 12 and draft to dot 4 BACK. up line line A E p straight out A straight out from dot 6 Measure y£ of the waist measure on line B from dot 2 and place dot 7 Measure yi of the hip measure on line E from dot 5 and place dot 8Measure 2j^ inches on line E m from dot 8 and place dot 9Measure 3 inches straight up from dot 9 and place dot 10Draft line Place letter 6 from dot ^ to dot 10D on dot 10 and continue line G to dot 8 Measure }4 the knee measure on line F fr° m li . Draft line E 2 y from dot inch less 4 to the end of line D Measure place dot 6 than the outside leg measure on line A A fr° m dot 3. the edge on dot H. and place dot 14from dot 2 to dot 14point of curve on dot 10 and draft to meet line K 4^ inches up from dot 14 Measure place dot 2 inches more than yi of knee measure on line H from dot 1 1 and 15 G on dot 10 and draft line L to dot 15measure on Measure 2 inch more than yi of the bottom 12 and place dot 16Place letter y line F from dot . Place letter S on dot 1 1 and draft line H to dot 8Measure }4 or the bottom on line C fr° m dot 4 and place dot 12Continue line H from dot 1 1 to J^ inch inside of dot 12Place the corner of square on dot 12 and draft to meet line H 7 inches up. and place dot 5Place the corner of square on dot 5» the edge even with line C» and draft ' 1 line D down 4 inches. Measure I inch in on line F from dot 12 and place dot 13 J Place letter U Measure Draft line Place the 2 }4 inches in K on dot 13 and draft to meet line J 8 inches up. and place dot 2Measure 3 H inches on line A from line B> and place dot 3Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3 Measure y$ of the waist measure on line C fr om dot 3> and place dot 4Measure l± inch from dot 4 on line (J.le D and place dot H. and straight out from dot 7to Measure y£ inch less than the measure from knee from dot Q and place dot 8Draft line bottom on line A up Measure Measure H straight out from dot 82^ inches on line G fr° m dot 3 yt inches less 7> and place dot 9than 14 of hip measure on line G fr° m dot 9. on line G from dot 10. Measure 6 inches on line F from dot 6. and Draft line place dot 7 P G straight out less from dot 6. and place dot 12Place letter S on dot 3 and draft line J to dot 9Place the corner of square on dot 12. lX Measure inches more than y£ of the waist measure on line B from line A. Draft lines A and B '2 ncn fr om the edge and end of goods. Place letter S on dot 9 and draft to meet line J. the inside leg measure Measure y^ inch Draft line than up line from dot 6.
B y? and place dot 2 Measure mcn more than y% of the neck measure on line A from line B> Measure yi inch more than V% of the neck measure on line B from line A? and place dot 3Place letter D on dot 2 an d draft line C to dot 3inches more than yi of the neck measure on line A from line Measure I B. waist line the length desired. —Around of — Around knee width Knee J.i of the length of shirt on iine A from line B> and place dot 8Measure the length of shirt (usually from 34 to 36 inches) on line A fr° m line B. not tight. beginning 9 inches from dot 4Measure J 3 of the chest measure on line H fr° m dot 4» and place dot 5Measure 1 . and draft line E y % to line B Place letter L on on line D B 1 yi ' inches from dot 6 and draft line F to to meet line E 6 inches from dot 7Place letter A line l{ ncn fr° m dot 3. — From — From Leg Measure — From knee bottom. Place letter Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 1 1 and yi. the edge on dot 7. the ankle the desired. Inside 6. 4 and 5 straight oul Measure from dot y{> than the distance between dots 6 and I Measure out from dot place dot 13y^ inches more than the distance between dots 6 and 13 straigh 8 Place letter Place letter U Z an d place dot 14on dot 5 and draft line T to on dot 13 and continue line T dot 13to dot 14. Waist Hips 30  Knee Bottom Outside Leg Inside 3S 18 17 41 31 1 Knee to Leg Bottom SHIRT— FRONT.. to MEASURE FOR TROUSERS. and place dot 9Measure the length of shoulder on line B from the junction of lines B and Q. and place dot 4Draft line H straight out. Use Draft line the fold of goods for line A! j inch from the end of goods. desired. . inch straight in and M place dot 12 Place letter Place letter D N on dot 12 and draft line on dot 12 and continue inch less S to dot 5 line S to dot H. — Around width Bottom — Around below Outside Leg Measure 5. f. the the 4. Leg Measure Waist I the waist easy. and place dot 6Draft line D 3 inches straight out from dot 6 and place dot 7Place the short arm of square on line B. inches down line A from line B. the fullest part hips rather snug. Hips 2. on the junction of lines B and Q and draft line Q to dot H. and place dot 10Measure 1 inch straight down from dot 10 and place dot H. crotch the length desirea. and draft line G meet line E 2 yi inches from line B Measure . 8 Draft from dot Measure x y 15 to dot 16inch out from dot on dot 17 and 16 on draft to line F Place letter S meet line and place dot 17L %/4 inches above dot 16 TO TAKE MEASURE FOR TROUSERS.
inches on line from line A. the fold of goods for line B A Measure yi inch and place dot 2Draft line less than y£ of the neck measure on line line A fr° m 2ne B» Measure the length of shoulder on A from dot 2. and place dot 7Measure inch more than the distance between dots 5 and 6 straight out from dot 7 and place dot 8Measure 5 inches straight down from dot 4 and J/! inch in and place dot 9Place the point of curve on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 9. Use the fold or goods for line A Draft line B . Measure it inches more than yi of the neck measure on line A from line B. . Place letter H T on dot 9 and continue line ' Place the corner of square on line A E to dot 4inch above dot 2 and measure straight out 3 inches less than the distance between dots 7 and 8 and place dot 10Place letter on dot 10. and place dot 5Measure z]/^ inches less than ]A of the chest measure straight out from dot 5 and place dot 6Measure 2 3 of the length of the shirt on line A from line B. Place letter H F Place letter on the end of line F and draft on dot 10 and draft to dot 2 to dot 6. Measure the length of shirt on line A from line B» and place dot 2Measure twice the length of shoulder on line B from line A> and place dot 3Measure yl inch straight down from dot 3 and place dot 4Place letter \J on dot 4 and draft line C to meet line B 3 inches from the fold of goods.'/2 inch from the end ot goods. and place dot 3 C 2 : }i inches straight out from dot 3li Measure 2 inches on line B from ne A» and place dot 4Measure l' inch more than y£ of neck measure straight out from dot 2 and 2 place dot 5Place letter (J Place letter G on dot 4 and draft on dot 5 and draft line line D E to dot 5 to the end of line (J For an open back add y$ inch for dot 2 to the distance given in the third instruction V/lVvvCYves Iskvcfcx A:V\.(Use the round I 1 edge). the edge of curve on dot 8> and draft line p from dot 10 to the J inch mark on the curve.GA. A ' 1 and Measure Measure Measure 1 2 B yi inch from the edge and end of goods. YOKE. and place dot 2line 1 ]^ inches on 1 Sleeve f d. inches straight out from dot 4 Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line D to dot 2letter H on the end of line C and draft line E to dot 3letter A on line C % inch in from line E and draft to E meet line E 3 inches from line CPlace the corner of square on line % inch from dot (J 3 and draft to dot % For open front add i/^ inch from the end of line (See dotted Sines). Place letter X H Place letter on dot 15 and on dot 15 and draft to dot 14 draft to dot 9 " BACK. and place dot 3inch more than y^ the neck measure on line trom line B» ana B B  A place dot 4 Draft line Place Place C 1 %.wg'' from dot 2.*.Place the corner of square on inches less line A ]A straight out 3^ than the distance inch above dot 9> and Measure between dots 8 and 14 and place dot 15. Draft line Use l /2 'nch from the edge of goods.<v ^a<tvcL Draft lines SHIRT BAND.
under the coat. Use the fold of goods for line A Draft line B 3 Measure place dot 2 c h from the end of goods. SHIRT SLEEVE. —Around —Around — the chest. Length. the hand loose. not t5ght. SHIRT. From the joint in neck the length desired. the bare neck easy. • Chest 35 14 Neck Shoulder 6 Length 35 Hand Sleeve 1cngth. Neck. Shoulder. MEASURE FOR SHIRT. Jf. .o . . and place dot 3Measure inch more than the hand measure straight out from dot 3 1 ar>d place dot 4 Measuie zy% inches straight down from dot 4 ar>d place dot 5Place letter B on dot 5 and draft line C to dot 3Draft line D from dot 5 to dot 2 Allow 1/^ inch above line C f° r facing. — Around Sleeve the point of shoulder the length desired. — —From Hand.. shirt. ^2 inches less than the hand measure on line ™ B fr° m line A» and Measure the length of sleeve on line A from line B. (See dotted lines) TO TAKE MEASURE FOR Chest. take a smooth measure.. Hold the tape line snug against the neck where the band joins the and measure to the point of shoulder.• .
NEW YORK *\K< 7 .Uknna Pattern Co. THE LATEST IMPORTED AND ORIGINAL DESIGNS IN Crinoline and and Paper Patterns Models LESS AT PRICES MUCH THAN ELSEWHERE Patterns Cut from r£*t^ Any Design VIENNA PATTERN 5 West 14th Street CO.
This book we is cannot recommend too highly.00 «5* Toilettes Fashion Co. but a book containing on every detail chapters of information and minute instructions — of the it. explained. Sent postpaid on receipt of price.oo. the principal teacher in our Vienna With JUNIOR TOILETTES World Stock Sizes and Cut to Measure Institute.00 A YEAR HOME TEACHER OF MILLINERY is The American Fashion Magazine the PRACTICAL... Show Coming Styles. Anyone the art to at bright. all or drafting system. and is very competent. Best Patterns in the PRICE «£* •3* $1.Ladies' BY tailoring X ClK most uptodate ««««•« in the « fashion magazine World. from the is making of wire fully frames finishing of the hat or bonnet. ONLY $2. $1.. can readily acquire of the Millinery. 25c. . 26 East 22d St. AGENTS WANTED Toilettes Building SEND ORDERS TO THE New York answered by mail Vienna Hillinery Institute 32 AM information will be cheerfully EAST J4th STREET I TTTT TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT TTTT tt T TTT TT T T TTT T T 1 TTTT T T TTTTT 5 Cbc Acme SelMimuctor OF \ Cbe marvel of all Dressmakers ] Dressmaking and. NEW YORK. Always used by Manufacturers to only publication of the kind printed. Room 22 5W.. final every point. W. No woman should be without Price.. art \ For Sale by Newsdealers.. . the author. Madame Millinery Melcher.MAY TOILETTES SINGLE COPIES.. Price. NY.. STRICTLY ORIGINAL Costumes designed by AMERICA'S Leading Fashion Artists. 15 Cents. and following the as instructions. L54 ELITE STYLES CO. SOPHIE KLUG No cutting I and 32 Pages 16 Colored Plates of Black and White Illustrations thirty five —purely fashion. $i. S. 23d ST. \ New York. Subscriptions. LE PETIT This all HAITRE.. Vienna Institute KLUG 54 r If your dealer has not got it.. send 15 cents for rmHtwiiii Specimen Copy I to WEST 23d ST. fully described and illustrated. 14th St.50 a year.
any machine. 5 W. Box plaits silk and other goods without leaving crease in center of Fits Tucks in plaids. PRICE $J. Call Printing Co. Tucks woolen goods without ruffles without measuring for first tuck. *7 West 13th N b w St. 14th St. We 1* give $50 reward to any sufficient to convict. Tucks Tucks in Clusters without measuring basting.SPECIAL NOTICE It is a criminal offence punishable by fine and imprisonment tion — to copy any part of our Instruc Book or our curved Rule —any person is us ing our Curved Rule without our consent (except with our system of Cutting) equally guilty. York . for clusters. Is by far the best tucker in the market. any one guilty will be prosecuted in the United State Courts will to the fullest extent. one furnishing evidence THE MAGIC TUCKER Tucks without Creasing. We will not permit any infringement upon our Patents and Copyrights. plait.0O VIENNA INSTITUTE.
A NEW TUCKFOLDER Especially designed for soft materials that will not crease.. and the also NEW DOMESTIC makes STANDARD the machine to buy. .. General Agent DOMESTIC SEWIflG PGHlflE CO. Hew York for Catalogue.50. both the LOCK STITCH and the STANDARD SHUTTLE CHAIN STITCH. very rapid and very fascinating. Price $1. CHAS. KATTELL. Adapted to all of the leading Sewing Machines. of all kinds Tucking from onesixteenth to onehalf inch and of any width of space desired. The STANDARD makes both the LOCK STITCH CHAIN STITCH. this more work can be accomstyle plished by system than can possibly be done on and the any of the old machines.LiBKHKY uf CONGRESS 013 964 937 Q IT IS AS SILENT AS THE TICK OF A WATCH Cbe new. Fourteenth Write Street. and the STANDARD SEWING PGJlIJlE GO. Parts and Needles for all Machines. Standard Rotary STANDARD GRAND" ROTARY j* A NEW SYSTEM > Onethird It is very light. IT Shuttle is IS TWO trial MACHINES IN ONE most obstinate that Ten minutes Our convinces the the Rotary the Correct Principle. W. 3 tttest TELEPHONE 253418TB ST.