Womens apron-dress re-interpretation

Daria Rakowski 2013 May be used for instruction provided prior written consent is sought and for personal use.

Back- cut 1 and Split or cut 2 Cut 3

Front-cut 2

Measurements: Centre front is the dotted line down the front piece. The outside, straight edge of front should be where you want your loops to lie, just below your tortoise brooches. Side seams are at the side. Back is normally almost the same width as centre-front to side-front (CF-SF) with the centre back gore sitting along centre back. Gores and angles are dependant on the width and quantity of your fabric. If you have more, make them bigger for more movement. So, to make the pattern: Measure around your chest at the fullest point this measurement makes up from the dotted line, around the back to the dotted line. It is a standard bust once around the ladies. Add approximately 1 2 for ease spread evenly around the pattern pieces. Then, measure from brooch to brooch from the centre point/pin attachment point and divide in half. Add this number to your front piece measurements (dont forget to add your ease here too!). The depth of the top should include the top hem plus measurement from just above the fullest point of chest to natural waist. In my experience, this dress fits best when the brooches sit in the hollow below the collar bone where the breast begins to swell. That line can taper in to accentuate a small waist along the side seams on both front and back pieces. Dont go too far in or it will pull open with movement. The skirt flare tends to make the eye see an accentuated waist without needing it to be very nipped in. The top

edge will be the same width as your full-bust measurement and may be slightly larger than necessary depending on the fullness of your bust. Ive never tried it, but it may be possible to add more shaping along the SF lines. If you experiment, let me know how it works for you. I find the extra room acceptable and usually ends up under my arms where some scholars have postulated a curve anyway. Remember to add seam allowances on all seam edges and hems to front, top and bottom. Measurement from top to hem should go below the knee or to mid-calf (or longer if desired but there isnt much evidence to support a full-length apron but I bet it would be warm). Cutting notes: As always it depends on your shape and your fabric. For the back piece, it is usually most economical for wide fabric to cut this piece along the fold but I find it easier to split it all the way up than to inset a gore. I make my patterns with a seam allowance on the CB edge and cut all the way to the top and put a seam there. You may of course choose to cut this on the fold, it is personal preference. I am a size 16-18 in Canadian sizes and find that a layout without nap on a wide fabric usually produces a single small square of fabric when done. To give you an idea, here is a very rough diagram of how I usually cut out (please pardon the poor geometry):