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osijek
2013

Baranja‘s folk fairytale
Unspoilt villages, soul food and fine wine

Caffeine culture

Head for the city‘s new coffee spots

N°6 - free copy
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Contents

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Arriving
Time to get after it 5 6 7 10 12
The Slama Land Art festival gathers artists from all parts that create amazing sculptures out of small to giant haystacks. Timberrrrrr…..See more on page 8.

History
Everything you need to know

Culture & Events
Reasons we love this city

Where to stay
Bring your PJs and leave the rest to us

Restaurants
Bring your big-boy tummy

Cafés
A buzzing city scene

15 16 17

Nightlife
Nothin’wrong with a little bump & grind

What to see
Eyes front!

Mail & Phones
It’s good to talk 20 20 21 22 23 25 26

Getting around
Planes, trains, automobiles and more Transport map

Sport
More exciting than you may think

Shopping Directory
Your mini Yellow Pages

Osijek Baranja County
Nature and tradition mere minutes away

Maps & Index
Đakovački vezovi is an action packed event with traditional folklore costume, dance and music. Attracting thousands of tourists each year, this is one unique yet colourful catwalk. See more on page 46.

Country map City map Street index

31 32 35

osijek.inyourpocket.com

2013

4

Foreword
Osijek has a well-earned reputation for being the most relaxing of Croatian cities. Its inhabitants are notoriously laid-back and welcoming, its city centre is full of parks, and the stickaround-a-while-longer quality of its cafes and restaurants stands as a warning to anyone who thinks that life is there to be hurried. Walking is a pleasure rather than a burden in a predominantly low-rise centre whose skyline is periodically punctured by some unusual architectural treat. And if you’re not much of a walker, then don’t forget that the flat nature of the terrain ensures that Osijek is very much a bicycle-lovers’ kind of place. It is also the only city outside Zagreb that has a tram network, with two lines that take you almost everywhere you need to go in the city centre.

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Mario Šućur Osijek is also a major university town, providing a seemingly endless supply of young people who will decide what to do with the rest of their lives just as soon as they’ve had a few more drinks. There are some excellent bars, pubs and clubs, with prices a fraction of what they are in Zagreb or on the Adriatic coast. The fact that the city centre comes in two parts – Gornji Grad to the west and Tvrđa to the east – gives a night on the town an extra flavour: on warm summer nights there’s a constant stream of people flowing along the riverfront between the outdoor bars of Zimska luka and the pubs and clubs of the Tvrđa district a kilometre or so downstream. Osijek is very much the capital of the Croatian southeast, an up-and-coming tourism centre that is increasingly well celebrated for its distinctive local cuisine and boutique wineries. There are also signs that Osijek is beginning to punch its cultural weight: the Croatian National Theatre in Osijek’s ground-breaking production of Unterstadt, staged in the open air during the Osijek Cultural Summer, won the best production in 2012’s Teatr.hr awards; while Osijek-based design team Lega-Lega are becoming a major nationwide retailer of T-Shirts and stationery, opening shops in Dubrovnik and Zagreb.

Albania

FYR Macedonia

Greece

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Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2013. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Osijek In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1846-257X ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by: IBL d.o.o., J. Kozarca 7, Tenja

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka Valić Contributors Jonathan Bousfield, Chad F Phillips, Nataly Anderson, Paul . Bergen Layout & Design Krešimir Šporčić, Gordan Karabogdan, Sonja Guina Photos In Your Pocket team, Silvija Butković, Tourist Board of Osijek, Marin Topić, Mario Šućur Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević zagreb@inyourpocket.com Cover: Damir Rajle

Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Osijek In Your Pocket

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Arriving in osiJeK
Arriving In Osijek
53, turist.os@app.hr, www.app.hr. The station has 16 platforms (peron) and an underground car park which caters for 250 car spaces and is under video-surveillance. The car park is open 00:00 - 24:00 and it costs 3kn per hour to park your car. As you enter the bus station the information desk which is open 00:00 - 24:00 is nearby, as is the ticket-counter which is open from 05:00 - 21:00.The news-stand is open between 05:00 - 22:00 and an Erste Bank ATM Machine is beside it. Going through the hallway one gets to the Mlinar Bakery open from 05:30 - 20:30, Saturdays from 07:00 13:30, and Sundays from 07:00 - 12:00. At the end of the hallway there is a toilet which is free of charge and open 00:00 - 24:00. Smoking is forbidden inside the bus station and just out of interest music is played throughout the entire complex. By car. The car journey from Zagreb to Osijek can be accomplished speedily and easily using the Zagreb-Lipovac-Osijek freeway, a 300km stretch of easy travelling highway. The trip shouldn’t take longer than 3 hours and the toll is 102kn, payable in most currencies, cash or credit card. Another option for getting to Osijek from Zagreb is using the Podravska Magistrala state road that connects ZagrebBjelovar-Virovitica-Osijek. From Budapest If you’re travelling by car from Budapest, motor right along towards Pecs, then head for Beli Manastir and Osijek. From Bosnia Travellers from Bosnia need to hit the following locations during a car journey Livno-Zenica-Doboj-Slavonski Šamac and your final destination, lovely Osijek.

5

By bus E-3, Bartula Kašića 70, tel. (+385-) 060 35 33

The hotel Waldinger is situated in the centre of Osijek in a 100 year old building.

By plane Klisa Airport, Vukovarska 67, Klisa, tel.

(+385-31) 51 44 02, fax (+385-31) 51 44 60, opc@ osijek-airport.hr, www.osijek-airport.hr. Osijek has a small but functional airport in Klisa, about 20km from the city by way of the Osijek -Vukovar regional road. The flight schedule is exceedingly simple so there is no information desk, but you can get flight and ticket information by calling airport offices at (+385-31) 51 44 40, 51 44 41 or 060 33 93 39. You can also buy tickets at the airport office at V. J. Gotovca 7. Should you require some refreshment before or after your journey, there’s a small cafe in the airport that works 07:00 - 15:00 and also during flights. Closed Sat, Sun unless there are flights.Toilets are available at no charge. Getting to town: As each plane lands at the airport, a van is already pre-scheduled to take visitors to the city centre for 25kn per person. If you’re not keen on riding the van, the airport staff can assist you in renting a car. By train E-3, Trg Lavoslava Ružičke 2, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet.hr. The domestic service ticket window is open 04:50 - 21:40. The international service ticket window is open 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Calling home: If you need to make a call there’s a payphone and a kiosk inside for purchasing a phone card that is open 05:00 - 22:00 as well as two ATM’s. Toilet is in the hall to the left and it requires the typical 2kn charge. There is also a 24-hour cafe in the station, Slavonija Inn. There is no left luggage or information desk in the train station. Getting to town: Taxi and trams await right outside the station.

osijek.inyourpocket.com

2013

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HistorY
1907 A branch of the Croatian National Theatre opens in Osijek 1918 The Habsburg empire collapses, and Osijek becomes part of the new Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes – subsequently re-named Yugoslavia. 1923 Osijek city authorities begin demolishing the 18thcentury fortifications, establishing riverside parks in their place. April 1941 Yugoslavia falls to Nazi Germany and her allies. April 1945 Communist partisans liberate Osijek from the Nazis. Croatia once more becomes part of Yugoslavia, this time as a federal republic of a one-party socialist state. 1950s Osijek emerges as a major industrial centre producing, among other things, most of Yugoslavia’s soap and matches May 1980 Yugoslavia’s authoritarian ruler Josip Broz Tito dies, ushering in a decade of stagnation and uncertainty April 1990 With faith in communist Yugoslavia ebbing away, multi-party elections in Croatia are won by the proindependence HDZ. 19 May 1991 A nationwide referendum produces an overwhelming majority in favour of Croatian independence from Yugoslavia 26 June 1991 Croatia declares independence August 1991 The Yugoslav Army, supported by Serbian paramilitaries, begins an invasion of eastern Slavonia. November 1991 The east-Slavonian town of Vukovar falls to Yugoslav-Serb forces, who then advance on Osijek, subjecting the city to a 9-month siege. Osijek remains a front-line city, exposed to periodic shelling, throughout the war. August 1995 Croatian victories on the battlefield bring the Croat-Serb conflict to an end. 1995-2010 Osijek slowly resumes its position as the economic and cultural capital of eastern Croatia. 2011 Osijek opens two brand-new shopping malls, complete with multiplex cinemas, placing the city at the forefront of contemporary Croatia’s commercial and entertainment scene.

3rd century BC Illyrians and Celts establish settlements on the banks of the Drava, near present-day Osijek 133 Roman Emperor Hadrian establishes Colonia Aelia Mursa, a mixed military-civilian settlement on the site of present-day Osijek’s Donji Grad. 380 Mursa is sacked by the Goths 7th century Migrating Slav tribes settle throughou t southeastern Europe. Among them are the Croats, who occupy Slavonia, the Adriatic coast, and much of Bosnia. 8th century Eastern Slavonia becomes part of the Bulgarian Empire 9th century Eastern Slavonia falls under the rule of Croatian kings 1102 Croatia forms a dynastic union with Hungary 1196 Osijek is mentioned for the first time in historical sources as “Essek”, a port and trade centre under the rule of Hungarian King Emerik. 1241 - 2 Slavonia is ravaged by the Mongols 13th - 14th centuries Osijek emerges as an important fortress town under powerful local magnates the Korogyi family. 1526 The Ottoman Turks capture Osijek from the Hungarians. 1566 In order to cross the marshlands northeast of town, the Turks construct a 8km-long wooden bridge from Osijek to Darda. Featuring watch-towers and rest-stations, the bridge become one of the wonders of European engineering. 1600s Osijek becomes famous for its 8-day-long spring fair, which attracts thousands of merchants from all over the Ottoman Empire. 1664 In fighting between the Habsburg and Ottoman Empires, Croatian noble Nikola Subić Zrinski leads a unit into eastern Slavonia and burns down the wooden bridge. 1687 Habsburg armies under Count Nicholas Lodron drive the Ottoman Turks out of Slavonia, liberating Osijek on 26 September. Austrian and German settlers arrive in the army’s wake, re-populating the town. The Habsburgs incorporate Osijek into the so-called Military Frontier, a belt of territory bordering on the Ottoman Empire which is placed under the direct rule of Habsburg generals. Osijek becomes the headquarters of the Military Frontier’s eastern sector. 1712 - 22 Construction of the Tvrđa, the fortified complex that serves as the Military Frontier’s eastern HQ. 1738 - 39 Bubonic plague kills an estimated 50% of Osijek’s population. mid - 1700s Eastern Slavonia is re-populated with Croats, Czechs, Slovaks and Germans, summoned here by Habsburg Empress Maria Theresa to boost agriculture and trade. 1783 Habsburg Emperor Josef II moves the Military Frontier’s eastern HQ from Osijek to Petrovaradin (near Novi Sad in Serbia). 1779 A new road from Osijek to Budapest boosts the local economy. 1800s. Osijek becomes a thriving multi-cultural metropolis. Croatian, German and Hungarian words are mangled together to form a uniquely polyglot local slang known as Essekerski. 1900 The consecration of the Church of SS Peter and Paul, the tallest structure so fasr built in Osijek.

National holidays 2013
January 1 January 6 March 31 April 1 May 1 May 30 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26 New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

Osijek In Your Pocket

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Culture & events

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Exhibitions

Puppetry has become accustom to this city ever since the first show was presented way back in 1962. Since then, a special theatre and an academy for puppetry have come to fruition, giving both children and people who have a passion for this theatrical genre purpose. To some people puppetry may be a long lost art but it still breathes deeply in the lungs of Osječani. Photo by Ivan Špoljarec

04.04 Thursday - 28.04 Sunday

29.06 Saturday - 28.07 Sunday

Tihomir Matijević - solo exhibition
F-2, Osijek Art Gallery, Europska avenija 9, tel. (+38531) 25 12 80, www.gluo.hr. This Našice born sculptor and member of Osijek’s branch of the Croatian Association of Artists is also the awards winner of the 2012 Sculptors Triennial. His sculptures are true works of art, visually attractive and dare we say noticeable, creating a new visual identity of each city they’ve been displayed.

Ivan Rein - Parisian palette
F-2, Osijek Art Gallery, Europska avenija 9, tel. (+38531) 25 12 80, www.gluo.hr. About 50 of Rein’s oil canvases, aquarelles, pastels as well as drawings which were made during his stay in Paris (1929 - 1940) from the Osijek’s Art Gallery’s collection will be presented. According to the existing sources, over 2000 works in various techniques and materials were created by this renowned Croatian painter during that period. His motifs usually included street scenes, bistros, circus, and the intimacy of a room or watching through a window - all of which are the little things he was surrounded with at the outskirts of Paris, along the Seine River.

11.04 Thursday - 05.05 Sunday

Vladimir Džanko - Retrospective
F-2, Osijek Art Gallery, Europska avenija 9, tel. (+38531) 25 12 80, www.gluo.hr. A retrospective exhibition from this renowned Osijek academic painter whose 40 year career slanted towards the classical concept of painting, especially landscape motifs. Džanko’s artistic themes range from the backdrops of Osijek and Slavonia, to portraits, nudes, and still nature. His true expressions of his impressions are a rare touch of harmonious colouring with the use of light and shadow used to evoke emotion.

26.09 Thursday - 31.01 Friday

Art Heritage of the Pejačević Family
F-2, Osijek Art Gallery, Europska avenija 9, tel. (+38531) 25 12 80, www.gluo.hr. This exhibition is part of the big project ‘Hidden Treasures of European Aristocracy’ which will be accompanied by concerts and lectures. The life of the famous noble Pejačević family will also be showcased to the public as well as works from their art collection.

03.05 Friday - 12.05 Sunday

Milan Klemenčić
F-2, Osijek Art Gallery, Europska avenija 9, tel. (+38531) 25 12 80, www.gluo.hr. An exhibition of the famous Slovenian artist, puppeteer, choreographer and photographer from the first half of the 20th century at the Osijek Art Gallery. This exhibition will present his amazing puppet creations.

Classical Music
01.03 Friday

Symphony Concert
E-2, Croatian National Theatre, Županijska 9, www. hnk-osijek.hr. For the second season running, the exhaltation of symphony concerts are setting the foundations for what one hopes will develop into a praiseworthy tradition. As a special treat, the programme of symphony concerts will be based on the works of Viennese classics such as Haydn, Mozart and Beethoven, as well as romantics such as Schubert, Brahms and Mendelssohn.

22.05 Wednesday - 21.06 Friday

NOArhiv
F-2, Osijek Art Gallery, Europska avenija 9, tel. (+38531) 25 12 80, www.gluo.hr. The exhibition of the archives of conceptual and neo-avant-garde art transfers from Zagreb to Osijek. These unconventional artworks and publications which range from the1960s to the 1980s comprise of digitised material from both museums and private collections, all of which are derived from an internet data base.

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2013

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Culture & events
tage. It traces back to as early as 1961 where composers, conductors and performers throughout Croatia and abroad first began to come together and participate in the festival. It is held each night in a different place throughout Slavonia and Baranja with neighbouring countries participating additionally.

15.05 Wednesday - 28.07 Sunday

The Ivo Kerdić Memorial - Triennial of Croatian medal making and small sculpture
F-2, Osijek Art Gallery, Europska avenija 9,tel. (+38531) 25 12 80, www.gluo.hr. This memorial exhibition, first held in 1980 and organised by the Osijek Art Gallery, is the most prestigious Croatian exhibition of medal making and of sculpture of smaller dimensions. The exhibition provides an overview of contemporary Croatian sculptors and artists working in this field, as well as displaying heritage pieces to provide a historical context.

27.03 - 07.04 exhibition by French photographer Antoine Gonin entitled ‘Eulogy to Future’. Alliance Française d’Osijek

Opera
01.05 Wednesday - 31.05 Friday

29.06 Saturday

Vincenzo Bellini - Norma, Premiere
E-2, Croatian National Theatre, Županijska 9, www. hnk-osijek.hr. Vincenzo Bellini’s bel canto is a tale of love and despair with the character of the high priestess Norma leading the cast. Amidst the druids and Roman forces battling for supremacy, the melodic inspiration and challenge of leading the female soprano sets the foundations for this powerful and deeply poetic tragedy.

Osijek’s Cultural Summer
ljetokulture.osijek.hr. A feast of culture to get you warmed up for summer. This multicultural summer event will enable visitors to see a wide variety of performances throughout the various city locations. It includes theatre, performance art, exhibitions, literary and film programmes. Aside from local artists, this festival also hosts guests from other parts of Croatia and abroad.

21.06 Friday

08.07 Monday - 14.07 Sunday

Opera Night in June
E-2, Croatian National Thetre, Županijska 9, www.hnkosijek.hr. Devotees to opera or even the faint-hearted punters wishing to give the genre a fair chance, this musical treat of opera corpus is actually a present by the opera ensemble of the Croatian National Theatre in Osijek who relay the width of their outstanding abilities and take on various repertoires from season to season.

Slama

F-2, Perivoj kralja Tomislava, tel. (+385-) 091 462 33 10, info@slama.hr, www.slama.hr. Can straw and hay be used as an art material? This land art festival proves that this is absolutely possible. By using such natural material in expressing their creativity, see how artists at this art colony create fantastic sculptures. For potential artists wishing to partake, apply at www.slama.hr.

Special events
14.02 Thursday - 30.03 Saturday

14.08 Wednesday - 18.08 Sunday

Pannonian Challenge XIV

The 6th Days of Graphics

F-2, Osijek Art Gallery, Europska avenija, tel. (385-31) 25 12 80, www.gluo.hr. In the rooms of Osijek Art Gallery, the Days of Graphics event gives you the opportunity to see graphic exhibitions or to participate in workshops and interesting lectures.

03.04 Wednesday - 06.04 Saturday

pannonian.hr. It’s RaDIcAL! Extreme sports are the words and mind you this traditional competition is being held for the 14th consecutive year. Each year it attracts more and more viewers and participants. Enjoy the whacky, wild and crazy moves from the best Croatian and foreign riders on mountain bike, in-line roller blades, BMX and skate. As a bonus, there are great parties organised each evening so the fun never ends. The event will be held in the Skate Park (Srednješkolsko igralište D-2) and at the trim track across the Drava River (C-1)

8th EPTA - International Competition for Young Pianists
F-2, Franjo Kuhač Music School, Trg svetog Trojstva 1, www.epta-croatia.hr. This is a biennial event which has been supported by the UNESCO patronage since 1999. It represents the first step towards promoting young talent to the international scene.

Country Without Borders

02.05 Thursday - 06.05 Monday

SLUK - The Puppeteers of Croatia gathering
www.djecje-kazaliste.hr. The buzz is bustling once again with this biennial puppeteer event founded in Osijek in 1977 which gathers puppet theatres and puppeteers from the whole of Croatia. Children and adults alike can once again savour the spotlight when puppets take the lead.

www.zemljabezgranica.com. At the end of the summer, Osijek is turned into a city for children of all ages thanks to this cultural and educational event that deals with topics which are dear and close to children’s hearts; ranging from ecological, health, and educational topics to children’s dreams and fantasies. A lot of Croatian and international artists will organise workshops, playrooms, and theatre shows for children across different town locations.

The French Alliance Cinema Club
www.alliance-francaise-osijek.hr. On every last Saturday of the month till July, film screenings will be held at the Alliance’s premises. It’s free entry for members and a mere 5kn for others, starts at 20:00. All films will have English or Croatian subtitles and screenings will be announced on the Alliance’s website and Facebook profile.

10.05 Friday - 19.05 Sunday

International Festival of Croatian Tamburica Music , tel. (+385-31) 28 32 53, mfhtg@htso.hr, www.htso.hr.
This is a great way of seeing a part of Croatia’s music heri

Osijek In Your Pocket

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Culture & events
Cinemas
Cineplexx D-3, Sv.Leopolda Mandića 50a (Avenue Mall), tel. (+385-31) 65 90 00, www.cineplexx.hr. QOpen 15:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. CineStar Osijek B-3, Svilajska 31a (Portanova Center), tel. (+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. QOpen 14:00 - 22:30, Fri 14:00 - 24:30, Sat 11:00 - 24:30, Sun 11:00 - 22:30.

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Osijek Antique Market
F-2, Trg Svetog Trojstva, tel. (+385-31) 20 37 55. The buildings aren’t the only old things to be found in the Tvrđa. On the first Saturday of each month, antique dealers from Croatia and surrounding countries descend on Trg Svetog Trojstva to peddle their treasures. The Osijek Antiques Market, organized by the City of Osijek, Glas Slavonije and the Osijek Tourist Board, opened in 2005 in front of the Bastion and then moved to the Tvrđa’s main square. It attracts sellers from Hungary, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina as well as Croatia who offer antique furniture, porcelain, paintings, clocks, coins, and antique weapons and other collectibles. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00.

Culture Centres
Alliance Française d'Osijek E-2, Europske avenije 4/
II, bureau@alliance-francaise-osijek.hr, www.alliancefrancaise-osijek.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Galleries

Kazamat Gallery D-2, Jagićeva 2, tel. (+385-31) 20 04 85, www.hdlu-osijek.hr. Belonging to the Osijek branch of the HDLU or Croatian Fine Artists' Association, the Kazamat or ‘Casemate' Gallery occupies a former fortified artillery position built into the walls of the Tvrđa fortress. Now a white-wall gallery space, it's makes a suitably atmospheric venue for the contemporary exhibitions that take place here, which run the gamut of artistic endeavour from photography to conceptual art. QOpen 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Magis Club Gallery F-2, Europske avenije 6, tel. (+385-31) 21 02 12, magis@timarex.hr, www.timarex. hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Open Gallery E-4, Gacka 10 (Mercator Hipermarket), tel. (+385) 091 781 04 55. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. Vernissage Gallery E-2, Trg A.Stračevića, passage, tel. (+385-31) 50 17 04, www.vernissage-gallery.com. Located in the pedestrian subway that sits beneath Gornji Grad's main square, this private gallery has played an influential role in promoting contemporary artists from Osijek and beyond, with a strong sequence of well-curated exhibitions. It is also a dealership, selling a wide range of paintings and graphics by leading Croatian artists. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Waldinger Gallery F-2, Fakultetska 7, tel. (+385-31) 22 92 29, www.ggo.hr. QOpen 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.

Theatres
Josipa Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-31) 50 14 85/(+38531) 53 07 66, djecje.kazaliste@os.t-com.hr, www. djecje-kazaliste.hr. 00, www.hnk-osijek.hr.

Children’s Theatre Branko Mihaljević (Dječje kazalište Branka Mihaljevića) H-3, Trg bana

Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište) E-2, Županijska 9, tel. (+385-31) 22 07

Osijek Summer Nights
www.tzosijek.hr. These nights are usually held on the last Friday in June, July and August and at the different city locations. There is entertainment for the little ones and adults alike, ranging from plays, concerts, street entertainers to culinary presentations. The dates may change, weather permitting.

In 2013 Vernisage Gallery will host Marko Živković, Vladimir Meglić, Antonia Čačić, Tatjana Politeo, Monika Meglić Stjepan Jozić and one group exhibition.

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2013

10

wHere to stAY
Symbol key
P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms 6 Animal friendly C Swimming pool 35, fax (+385-31) 58 25 36, hotel@hotel-silver.hr, www.hotel-silver.hr. A new three-star hotel located just a few minutes' walk from the city center, Hotel Silver offers a whole slew of amenities like guarded car park and meeting facilities. As an added bonus, a night's stay won't break the bank. Located a stone's throw from shopping centers, sports and swimming facilities and the football stadium, this is a fine choice for accommodation near the center. Q21 rooms (3 singles €30 - 52, 18 doubles €59 - 75). POHAULG0 BKW hhh Vila Ariston E-3, A.K.Miošića 6, tel. (+385-31) 25 13 51, fax (+385-31) 25 13 50, ariston.d.o.o@os.t-com.hr, www.hotelaristonosijek.hr. A residential street round the corner from the train station is the tranquil location for this rather classy small-hotel hideaway. The rooms - each of which is named after a flower and comes with an appropriately pastelly colour scheme - come with parquet floors, repro furniture, deep sofas, and decently-proportioned desks. The massage nozzles in the shower units should help to ease the stress of a day spent pacing the mean streets of eastern Slavonia. Q10 rooms (10 singles €65 - 75, 10 doubles €90 - 105). PiTHALGW hhh

Silver G-3, Martina Divalta 84, tel. (+385-31) 58 25

Upmarket
fax (+385-31) 23 04 44, info@hotelosijek.hr, www. hotelosijek.hr. This hotel has actually been around for 27 years, but the facelift it recently received has made it look brand-spanking-new. The gleaming glass of the hotel dominates the skyline of the Winter Harbor, and inside the hotel offers the services you expect from any quality fourstar hotel: a fitness center, wireless Internet, catering and conference organization, and on and on. There are some hotels closer to the center, but for comfort and luxury, including a prime location for Osijek's Promenade, this is your place. Q147 rooms (27 singles €100, 113 doubles €113, 6 suites €162 - 192, 1 Presidential Suite €396). PTHAR6UIFLGBKDS hhhh

Osijek E-2, Šamačka 4, tel. (+385-31) 23 03 33,

Budget
Central E-2, Trg Ante Starčevića 6, tel. (+385-31) 28
33 99, fax (+385-31) 28 38 91, info@hotel-central-os. hr, www.hotel-central-os.hr. The Hotel Central certainly lives up to its name. This comfortable hotel offers simple, clean and affordable rooms right on the main square. The friendly staff can even help you rent a bike from the hotel's own service and send you in the right direction for a relaxing day trip around Osijek. Prices are per room. Q32 rooms (16 singles €47, 16 doubles €55 - 74). A6LGBW hh

Old-school charm
Waldinger E-2, Županijska 8, tel. (+385-31) 25 04 50, fax (+385-31) 25 04 53, info@waldinger.hr, www.waldinger.hr. Housed in a handsome Art Nouveau building a few steps away from the Cathedral, this smallsized and intimate hotel conjures up the atmosphere of nineteenth-century Osijek's belle-epoque. Plush red-andgold carpets and solid dark-brown furnishings provide an opulent feel, and each room comes with a reasonable amount of desk space and a fair-sized bathtub. Q 16 rooms (1 single €87, 14 doubles €100 - 127, 1 apartment €160). P Z H A R F L G B K D W h h h h

Pansion Comfort
Pansion Fitea H-3, Srijemska 27, tel. (+385-31) 50 85 08/(+385-) 098 30 93 65, 098 185 35 21, fax (+38531) 50 75 78, fitea@fitea.hr, www.fitea.hr. “Pansions” are small hotels with a homely feel, Gilmore Girls style. This is family run, newly built, located near the Gradski vrt Stadium, and about 1.5 km from the old center Tvrđa. It consists of rooms that are modernly designed with free wireless internet connection. There's a restaurant and bar on the ground floor, guests can choose from bed and breakfast, full or half board. Prices are per person. Q12 rooms (4 singles 278kn, 4 doubles 456kn, 4 triples 534kn). PHALGBKW hhh

Mid-range
Drava D/E-3, Ivana Gundulića 25a, tel. (+385-31) 25 05 00/(+385-) 095 250 50 00, fax (+385-31) 25 05 03, drava1@optinet.hr, www.hotel-drava.com. A small hotel off Gundulićeva, the Drava is close to a tram stop and is a short walk from the main square. Understated modern décor in the foyer gives way to skylit halls and brightly-colored, comfy rooms. Beds are comfortably sized: single rooms have double beds and some doubles have queen-size beds. A family might like one of the business rooms, each of which offers a pull-out couch in a separate seating area. Breakfast is served in the dining/reception area. Rooms have satellite TV. Laundry service is available. Q11 rooms (4 singles €56, 7 doubles €83). PAR6LGXCW hhh Millennium G-3, Kralja P. Svačića 12, tel. (+385-31) 53 13 30, fax (+385-31) 53 13 31, info@hotel-millennium. hr, www.hotel-millennium.hr. Intended primarily for business people, the Millennium offers neat, simply-furnished rooms with satellite TV, a dining room and adjoining café-bar if you need a pick-me-up after a long trip. If that isn't enough, some rooms have bathtubs with massage-jets so you canrelax before heading out for a night on the town. Q17 rooms (4 singles €45, 10 doubles €75, 3 apartments €105 - 118). PHAULGBKW hhh Osijek In Your Pocket

Pansion
Regina E-2, Županijska 6, tel. (+385-31) 20 22 03/ (+385-) 098 969 95 90, fax (+385-31) 20 20 30, regina. osijek@gmail.com, www.reginaosijek.hr. This may sound unconventional as this B&B is positioned inside the backyard of a peaceful family house, but don't let that deter you as staying here is definitely worthwhile.

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wHere to stAY

11

Away from the noise yet in the city center, each room carries the name of a flower and the modern interior has been designed with taste and care. Begin each new day with a fine buffet breakfast which will make you feel at home, and will ensure for a pleasant and unforgettable stay. Q3 rooms (3 singles 200 - 360kn, 3 doubles 400 - 500kn). PJALGW hhh Vienna Radićeva 26a, tel. (+385-31) 21 40 26/(+385) 095 904 46 08, info@vienna-smjestaj.com, www.viennasmjestaj.com. Perfectly poised for the train and bus stations, and mere minutes from the heart of Gornji grad, Vienna is a friendly and welcoming guesthouse tucked into a quiet courtyard. Despite proximity to the raucous café-bars of Radićeva street, it's sufficiently isolated to retain a peaceful and relaxing vibe. Rooms are small but very well equipped, with modern bathroom fittings, an electric kettle, and free internet access. Breakfast can be ordered for an extra 35kn, although there are plenty of cafes and snack bars on the street outside. Q10 rooms (3 singles 300kn, 4 doubles 420kn, 2 triples 550kn, 1 apartment 700kn). PALW Waldinger E-2, Županijska 8, tel. (+385-31) 25 04 50, fax (+385-31) 25 04 53, info@waldinger.hr, www. waldinger.hr. Intended to cater to the needs of businesspeople, Pansion Waldinger is a charming, modern accommodation located directly behind the Hotel Waldinger. All rooms are equipped with telephone and internet connection for those who need to stay in touch and room service is available from 07:00 to 23:00. All that aside, the true amenity is the location. Stone walls create a peaceful,green garden right in the centre of the city that lends a comfortable, out-in-the-country vibe to all of the rooms. Q7 rooms (1 single €40, 5 doubles €46 - 59, 1 apartment €79). PHAR6UFLGB0 KDW hhh

8 triples 107 - 150kn). AULKW

Q40 rooms (2 singles 107 - 157kn, 30 doubles 107 - 150kn,

taurant where they serve breakfast. Prices are per person.

Ritam C-2, Kozjačka 76, tel. (+385-31) 31 03 10/ (+385-) 091 782 54 24, fax (+385-31) 31 03 12. Located in a residential neighborhood near the Hippodrome, the Hotel Ritam has an advanced aerobics studio and table tennis and you can cool down after in the coffee bar. Spacious, simple rooms have single beds and satellite TV. Breakfast is served in the dining room. Q9 rooms (1 single 291 - 359kn, 6 doubles 392 - 487kn, 3 triples 490 - 549kn). PTAFLXW hhh Smještaj Osijek D-2, Adolfa Waldingera 12, tel. (+385-)
091 300 70 70, fax (+385-31) 36 90 19, iva@smjestajosijek.com, www.smjestaj-osijek.com. Located in the city centre surrounding the Ante Starčević Square, this is part of an old building in the Secessionist style where the interior is modern and has a minimalistic edge. Its simplicity and combination of warm colors doesn't leave you indifferent, in-fact it's rather inviting actually. Q3 rooms (2 singles 300kn, 2 doubles 500kn, 1 Family Room 500 - 1000kn). PJA6XW hhhh

Private accommodation
75 67, fax (+385-31) 49 53 97, info@maksimilian.hr, www.maksimilian.hr. Get comfy in the heart of the Baroque city center, this hotel has maintained that rustic historical feel whilst offering full comfort accommodation in the rooms with private bathrooms and TV in each. In case you're just passing by as part of your cycling route, there is also a room for keeping bicycles plus free internet connection in the joint halls. Q9 rooms (2 singles €30 - 42, 5 doubles €44 - 56, 1 triple €70, 1 Family Room €76). PAGW hhh Prenočište Helena E-3, Vinkovačka 2, tel. (+385-) 091 461 90 47/(+385-) 091 461 90 44, ivana@prehrana. net, www.prehrana.net. Pleasant and simple! A great little getaway which is in town and has affordable prices with eitherprivate or shared bathrooms as part of the accommodation packages. In addition, the motel includes the Prehrana Res-

Maksimilian F-2, Franjevačka 12, tel. (+385-31) 49

04 90, fax (+385-31) 31 04 99, villa.sveti.rok@os.t-com. hr, www.villa-sveti-rok.hr. Hospitality is the keyword at this cozy guesthouse, lovingly decorated with your comfort in mind each step of the way. There are seven rooms in all, just enough to ensure the proprietors have the right amount of time to make you feel right at home. Each room has a hydro-massage bath to prepare you for an excellent night's sleep on a real wooden bed, complete with a comfy mattress that could tame even the most frightful insomniac. When you're up and ready to get back to business, the wireless internet connection comes in handy, as well as a power breakfast in the tastefully decorated bistro. Q7 rooms (5 doubles 470 - 585kn, 1 triple 785kn, 1 apartment 1260kn). PA6LDW hhhh

Villa Sveti Rok D-2, Svetog Roka 13, tel. (+385-31) 31

Hostel
Tufna F-2, Franje Kuhača 10/I, tel. (+385-31) 21 50 20/ (+385-) 098 55 34 44, fax (+385-31) 21 50 21, intuit@ os.t-com.hr, www.tufna.hr. Backpackers and those who wish to mingle with the locals will find this is a great place to stay. Get a sense of history as it's the first hostel located in the historical, Baroque center of Osijek called Tvrđa and it sits above the club of the same name. The hostel is a mere 15minute walk from the city center, close to Osijek's main museums and right in the heart of the jolly night life and entertainment. Hook up with friends worldwide as they've recently installed a free internet connection. Q 28 dorm beds, 107kn per person. PAR6GW 2013

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restAurAnts
Chinese
Confucius E-2, Kapucinska 34, tel. (+385-31) 21 01 04. Scouring manuscripts and quotes of the wisdom of Confucius for mention of this dependable Chinese restaurant will lead you nowhere, but it has operated in the same place for years, so apparently they’re doing something right. If you have a craving for some Chinese, this is a decent place to grab some. QOpen 15:00 - 22:00. (50 - 90kn). PAVGS Hong Kong H-2, J.J.Strossmayera 41, tel. (+385-31) 77 82 36/(+385-) 091 115 00 08. Craving Asian! Then pop into this restaurant which is adorned with the typical décor one would find in a Chinese restaurant. Standard meals at standard prices can be expected and the added bonuses include its terrace and the restaurant car park along Dubrovačka street. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. (25 - 95kn). PALGB

CAFés
International
Bijelo plavi F-3, Martina Divalta 8, tel. (+385-31) 57 10 00. If you ask a local for a dining-out recommendation, you’re likely to hear about this place. Bijelo-plavi is Croatian for “bluewhite,” a nod to the colors of FC Osijek, whose home games are played just a short walk from the restaurant. Homemade bread is whipped-up fresh everyday and there’s a menu full of international and Croatian specialities. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (20 - 80kn). PALGBW Galija D/E-2, Gornjodravska obala bb (on the river-boat), tel. (+385-31) 28 35 00, galija@kubo.hr, www.kubo.hr. The restaurant’s motto is “A view that has no price.” But you have to search a little to find the restaurant itself, up-river from the Zimska Luka, past the derelict building, on the boat moored on the river. While stuffing yourself on the grill offerings and enjoying tasty risottos, you can watch the people jogging on the promenade across the river. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed December - March 31. (35 - 145kn). PTAGBXW Lumiere E-2, Šetalište kardinala Franje Šepera 8, tel. (+385-31) 20 10 88, lumiere@os.t-com.hr. Located at the lower level of the Urania Cinema with a pleasant interior and two big screens showing scenes from old black and white movies. It is well set with a menu that is regularly changed which is refreshing, and yet it caters to just about every eater’s desires from pasta, meats and veggies to succulent sweets. Friendly staff and great prices! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30 80kn). PAGBXW Restoran Club Waldinger E-2, Županijska 8 (Hotel Waldinger), tel. (+385-31) 25 04 50, www.waldinger. hr. What separates this restaurant from others is that it has its own wine cellar with an assortment second to none. The international cuisine, classy interior and window through which one can see the chef whizzing up his magical delights add special touches, and the restaurant has a reputation for quality that meets the expectations of more demanding guests. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed July 15 - August 31. (50 - 150kn). PJALGW

Fast food
05. Problem: you need a quick lunch at a good price. Solution: Peach! This bistro at the center of the town has light and delicious baked goods on offer, or you can choose something hot off the grill like ćevapčići or opt for some fried calamari. QOpen 06:30 - 21:00, Sat 06:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (10 - 37kn). NBW K topu F-2, Fakultetska 1, tel. (+385-31) 21 09 04. When you’re sightseeing in the Fortress and need a quick sandwich to keep you going, this is the best choice. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (12 - 76kn). V Makedonka H-3, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 7, tel. (+385-31) 50 34 03/(+385-) 099 212 59 96, www. makedonka.hr. Fast food revellers adhere as this diner has a history of tradition and quality. Burgers and top class ćevapčići are what bring Osijek meat eaters back for more. Positioned in the Lower Town and just out of the city centre. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (16 - 36kn). PGBSW Zeleni val E-2, Županijska 22, tel. (+385-31) 20 08 64. Locals claim there are only two places to score quality ćevapčići in town and this is one of them. Its excellent location close to the center makes it a logical choice when you’re sightseeing and want to indulge in some local cuisine. Vegetarians and fine-dining enthusiasts beware: the menu is principally meat and is served up in a simply-decorated space with very few frills. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (20 - 35kn). NW

Breskva E-2, Lorenza Jägera 6, tel. (+385-31) 20 49

Pizza
colors, cushion-tossed wooden benches and a barrel-vaulted brick ceiling make this a cosy location in which to tuck in to a broad range of pizzas, risottos and pastas. The thin-crust pies are generous in size and come with reasonably authentic Italian-style toppings. There are some inspired local concoctions as well - the Osiječka pizza, liberally covered with slices of spicy Slavonian sausage, soon had our gastric juices gurgling. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 58kn). PAVGB El paso E/F-2, Šetalište kardinala Franje Šepera bb, tel. (+385-) 098 20 50 77. The name is suggestive of south of the border and the location is suggestive of fish, but neither is really to be found and it doesn’t seem to matter all that much. Right along the Promenade, look for the boat and hit the deck for pizza and pasta dishes. There’s a kid’s menu that features kid-size portions of ćevapčići or turkey with fries. The temptation to shout, “anchors aweigh!” was real, but we don’t think that boat’s going anywhere. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (30 - 60kn). AVGBXW

As E-2, Radićeva 16, tel. (+385-31) 21 25 00. Warm

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restAurAnts
Rustika Pavla Pejačevića 32, tel. (+385-31) 36 94 00,
www.rustika.hr. This roomy town centre restaurant decorated in bold colours has proved an instant hit with locals, and it’s constantly full of families and parties of friends seated around the big wooden tables. Bustling aproned staff deal out a please-everyone menu that covers everything from steaks to pizzas. Unsurprisingly Rustika is frequently very busy; although it’s no great hardship to enjoy a drink at one of the high tables at the bar while waiting for some seats to become vacant. The sizeable courtyard comes into service from spring onwards. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. PTAIGBXW

13

The Regional Museum of Wine
In 2013 the city of Osijek is to gain its first Regional Museum of Wine, which will be right in Tvrđa, the old heart of the city! The regions of Slavonija and Baranja have four winegrowing areas, Baranja, Erdut, Feričanci and Đakovo, with a long tradition of producing high quality wines that are popular with locals and tourists alike. The aim of the Museum is to promote the region, its wine-making culture, its wine routes and the authentic food and drink of the region. Apart from this Museum, inland Croatia will be richer for four more museums, one for each of the famous Slavonian winemaking regions of Baranja, Erdut, Feričanci and Đakovo; each of which will have a space for wine-tasting, promotions and the sale of locallyproduced wines.

denarius@hi.t-com.hr. If you happen to be in the area of the football stadium and feel those first, faint inklings of hunger, make a bee-line for this pizzeria. It’s well-known around town for churning out quality pies. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (20 - 36kn). PAVGBW

Sebastian G-3, Sjenjak 59, tel. (+385-31) 57 09 04,

Strossmayer C-2, Josipa Jurja Srossmayera 133, tel. (+385-31) 37 58 88, bkocsis@net.hr, www.omniaosijek.hr. On the street of the same name, this attractive Art Nouveau-style restaurant offers up pizza and barbecue just a stone’s throw from the main square. QOpen 10:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (20 - 65kn). PJAGBXW

Kovač čarda Glavna 215, Suza, tel. (+385-31) 73 31

Out of town
Baranjska kuća Kolodvorska 99, Karanac, tel. (+38531) 72 01 80, baranjska-kuca@net.hr, www.baranjskakuca.com. One of the delights of visiting a continental city is the chance to check out some local cuisine and one could hardly ask for a better place to accomplish that goal than this ethnic restaurant. Several local specialities are prepared to perfection and come highly recommended, including fiš paprikaš, a hearty fish stew, and šaran u rašljama which is skewered carp cooked over an open fire. Selected evenings see live Roma music performances. With the excellent food and atmosphere, there will be some competition for tables. Make sure you call and reserve in advance. QOpen 11:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. (35 - 80kn). PALGBXW Citadela Šandora Petefija 39, Vardarac, tel. (+38531) 75 31 84, citadela@os.t-com.hr, www.citadela. com.hr. Another local favorite when out of town that has cultivated a solid reputation for quality fish paprikas. Those in the know refer to it as the must try for that speciality dish. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (29 - 80kn). PALGBXW

01/(+385-) 098 37 20 70. We heard about an excellent Hungarian restaurant with scrumptious food and an easy-tofind location and decided to put both parts of that claim to the test. Standing right on the main road in Suza, the restaurant's location really is prime. And as for the food, apparently many other people had already been convinced about the quality of the fare, evidenced by the numerous awards hanging on their walls. If we had an award to give for the tastiest fish paprikas in the area, this might well be the winner. The welcoming staff deserves an award for friendliness, as well. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (30 - 65kn). PALGBXW

Josić Planina 194, Zmajevac, tel. (+385-31) 73 44 10, restoran.josic@gmail.com, www.josic.hr. A surduk is a cut in a mountain where wine cellars are positioned beneath soil helping maintain a constant temperature for storing wines. This unique ambience along with an excellent blend of tradition and the contemporary leaves a lasting impression on each and every guest. Highly recommended! Q Open 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. ALGBW Kormoran Podunavlje bb, Bilje, tel. (+385-31) 75 30 99/(+385-) 091 175 30 99, www.belje.hr. The untouched natural surroundings are lush with a big park, promenade, and green area for children to play in. If you can, get a table on the spacious outdoor terrace where you can enjoy the traditional specialties of the Baranja region prepared according to old recipes. Try carp roasted on wooden sticks, cat fish perkelt, fish paprikash and more... QOpen 11:00 22:00. (30 - 95kn). PALGBX osijek.inyourpocket.com

Traditional

Baranjska kuća

Alas F-3, Reisnerova 12a, tel. (+385-31) 21 30 32/ (+385-) 091 890 89 77, info@restoranalasosijek.com, www.restoranalasosijek.com. Alas is local dialect for fisherman, and this friendly little restaurant on a residential street corner is the place to try local freshwater fish dishes. Speciality of the house is perkelt od soma (a deliciously spicy paprika casserole with huge chunks of scaly catfish floating around in it), usually served with home-made noodles smothered in cheesy sauce. Just in case you get carried away, bright orange bibs are provided to prevent you from dribbling it all down your chest. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed July 15 - August 15. (50 - 90kn). PALGBXW 2013

14

restAurAnts
tel. (+385-31) 25 04 50, www.waldinger.hr. A true surprise in the heart of town. This national restaurant is situated in a cellar; it’s located at the rear of the Waldinger Hotel and dishes up traditional Croatian cuisine. Red bricks, wooden beams, an interior that displays attention to detail along with hospitable staff make for a warm atmosphere for wining and dining. Q September - June Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 85kn). PJALGW Karaka F-3, Kneza Trpimira 16, tel. (+385-31) 20 34 00, www.kubo.hr. Owned by the same people as Pasta Pizza Bar El Paso, Karaka offers charcoal-grilled variations on Croatian cuisine, such as chicken legs stuffed with cheese and ham, in traditionally large portions. The restaurant is bright and airy, with an ample terrace heated with gas heaters in the winter. They offer a kids’ menu and a breakfast menu, too, if you’re tired of the meat-and-cheese platter at your hotel. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (32 - 110kn). PALGBXW Kod Javora H-2, Donjodravska obala 14, tel. (+38531) 50 69 50/(+385-) 095 840 39 70, www.kodjavora.com. Nestled right on the Drava River, this fish restaurant is a bit off the beaten path but the protected terrace, which allows for outdoor seating year round, and the quality menu both make it worth the trip. The stars of the menu are fish specialities like fish paprikas and river fish, but there are some standout meat dishes that warrant a try also. Your meal will just beg to be complemented by a Croatian wine from the solid wine list. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (35 - 75kn). PALGBXW Kod Ruže F-2, Kuhačeva 25a, Tvrđa, tel. (+385-31) 20 60 66, www.omnia-osijek.hr. According to old records, Benedikt Muller bought “the house at Ruža’s” in the Tvrđa for 900 forint in 1758. Kod Ruže is owned by the same family as the pizza restaurant Strossmayer, and they’ve stocked it full of character: old photographs and knicknacks, heavy woodtables, and a menu full of Slavonian favorites. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. (55 - 135kn). PTAGBW Kompa D-1, Splavarska 1, tel. (+385-31) 37 57 55/ (+385-) 091 501 15 96, www.restorankompa.hr. Located along the right-hand side of the Drava River bank, this eatery has kept its long tradition going since 1971 and is deemed a gem for family gatherings. The menu comprises of a wide spectrum of gastronomic meals, especially the cooked smoked pork shank served with cooked salty potatoes, sour cabbage or baked beans. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sundays during the winter. Closed August 1 - 16. (30 - 75kn). PNGBXW Mađarska retfala C-1, Šandora Petefija 22, tel. (+385-31) 30 22 43. A visit to this restaurant shouldn’t be accompanied by expectations about trappings like classiness or refinement, but you can look forward to somereasonably-priced Slavonian-Hungarian specialities such as čobanac and fiš-paprikaš, each liberally seasoned with the local paprika. They also do pork chops, sausages and other no-nonsense Croatian nosh. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Closed July 15 - August 15. (25 - 55kn). PALGXW Slavonska kuća F-2, Kamila Firingera 26a, Tvrđa, tel. (+385-31) 36 99 55, marija.baric1@os.t-com.hr, www.slavonskakuca.com. Plenty of other traditional dishes perfect after a long day plowing the fields or hiking across them: venison with onions and paprika, čobanac, švargl (pig’s head meat, skin, ears, tongue, heart, boiled in a stomach and pressed into sausage - yum). But don’t expect pizza. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 65kn). PAGBXW

Gradski podrum E-2, Županijska 8 (Hotel Waldinger),

Desserts
Something of a cult among the sweet-toothed side of the Osijek population, this perpetually young patisserie is the place to come for a scoop or two of delectable ice cream, or a close encounter with coffee and cakes. The chiller cabinet beneath the counter is perpetually full of well nigh irresistible treats - so if calories are an issue, remember to bring the self-disciplined part of your personality (or a cake-monitor) with you. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PJNGBW Promenada E-2, Šamačka 4, tel. (+385-31) 23 03 55, www.hotelosijek.hr. Sipping coffee and people watching along the Promenade can be a demanding pursuit, so you might need a bit of a sugar boost to go along with that caffeine, just to keep you going. Right next door to Kavana Osijek, Cakes Promenada has a display case full of big, colorful cakes and mounds of ice cream just begging to be sampled. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. PAGBW Tivoli E-3, Stjepana Radića 26. Love your sweets? Look no further as this relatively new confectionary on Radićeva Street has a fine assortment of goodies to keep your sweet tooth in-tact. Choose from ice creams to fruit cups, milkshakes, frappes, cakes and 14 different cocktails. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. B0 Waldinger Lounge Bar B-3, Svilajska 31a (Portanova Shopping Center), tel. (+385-31) 29 81 43, www.waldinger.hr. Located on the second floor of the Portanova mall this is much more than just a shopping-centre café, and is arguably as important to Portanova’s appeal as the shops themselves. A superbly contemporary reinvention of the traditional café concept, it’s a spacious place furnished with sleek tables, angular but soft-and-comfy chairs and sofas, and designer light fittings. You can spend a long time trying to decide what to order from the fantastic range of fresh cakes, tortes and ice creams. There is also a full list of wines, shots and cocktails for evening visitors, while music sessions, fashion shows and other social events brighten up the weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PNGXW

Petar Pan E-2, Ribarska 1, tel. (+385-31) 28 36 26.

You can learn how to prepare healthy delicacies at Romina’s monthly workshops. For the full schedule visit www.makrobiotika-os.blogspot.com and www.facebook.com/ZdravaIFinaHranaRomina.

Osijek In Your Pocket

osijek.inyourpocket.com

CAFés
for daily coffee or for a warm up before heading out to some of Osijek's clubs. A favourite amongst locals, it is situated near the Economic and Law University on Radićeva Street. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PBX No. 22 E-2, Trg Ivana Pavla II 1. Positioned next to the ‘cathedral' so you're close to holy ground, No.22 is one of the most popular places in which to settle down for a city-centre chin-wag. An unpretentious mixture of guests of all ages simply sit on the terrace, thus making you feel comfortable and welcomed. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. JB San Francisco Coffee House E-2, Radićeva 12, tel. (+385-) 091 986 46 76, denistensek@sfch.hr, www. sfch.hr. A contemporary coffee bar that gives initiates of the caffeine cult pretty much everything they could wish for in the espresso, latte and mocha line, and succeeds in being a stylish hangout into the bargain. You can perch in 60sstyle bucket chairs or lounge around in white settees, while gazing at photographs of the Golden Gate bridge and other sunshine-state landmarks. The muffins and cookies make a nice change from the ‘you-can-have-any-cake-you-like-aslong-as-it's-a-strudel' approach of most other Croatian cafés. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PBXW

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New York E-3, Stjepana Radića 22. This is an ideal place

kubo.hr. A café by day that serves very well as a lounge-bar by night, the Club is a stylish little place with minimalist interior, chic wooden furnishings and moody lighting. As well as a long list of spirits and shots there is also a good choice of Slavonian wines served in dainty 2cl bottles. It's the kind of place where wait-staff are smartly dressed and quick to take your order. You can book a private party-booth downstairs. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 07:30 - 24:00. PJAGXW Cookie Caffe E-2, Vijenac Jakova Gotovca 8, tel. (+385-31) 32 61 47. One of central Osijek's best places for a quick sightseeing break is this cute glass box on the edge of Trg Slobode, with seating on two floors and good views of the surrounding pedestrian bustle. True to its name, the café usually has 4-5 varieties of freshly-baked, melt-in-themouth cookie laid out in the counter-side display cabinet, alongside a similar number of brownie-style desserts, and the odd cupcake or two. The coffee is strong, and they also take their tea very seriously, with a big choice of speciality green varieties. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PNGW Davos E-2, Ribarska 1. Smack bang in between the Esseker Shopping Centre, the main city square, the Drava River and Promenade, Davos is the most popular gathering place for young people and offers a great choice of cocktails and ice cream. Live music on Saturdays. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. July - September Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. JB Kavana Osijek E-2, Šamačka 4, tel. (+385-31) 23 03 56, www.hotelosijek.hr. Weekend mornings see Osijek's Promenade filling up with loads of stylish café-goers relaxing and re-hashing the events of the night before. The epicenter of the chatting and chilling seems to be this trendy café, whose roomy terrace is the perfect place to grab an outdoor table and catch a view of the river and the harbor. Bring a jacket or jumper in case the mid-morning sun is obscured by the hotel towering up over the terrace, or retreat inside to warmer climes in the equally comfy inside seating. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. PAGBXW Kavana Waldinger E-2, Županijska 8, tel. (+385-31) 25 04 70, www.waldinger.hr. When it comes to the traditional-style Central-European coffeehouse, the café of Hotel Waldinger isn't just the best example in Osijek, it's also one of the best in the whole of Croatia. It's a roomy, refined and comfortable place patrolled by ultra-efficient, waist-coated wait-staff. As an important social hub, it's the city's favourite venue for Saturday-morning socializing, intimate tete-a-tetes and business appointments. Offering a grand cup of coffee and the kind of irresistible cake selection that the Waldinger brand is famous for, this is a must-visit whether you've got a meeting planned or simply strolling by. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PJALGBXW

Club E-2, Kapucinska 23, tel. (+385-31) 21 09 33, www.

of Osijek's city landmarks, ‘The Walker', better known as the sculpture of the Croatian writer August Cesarec. Surrounded by apartment blocks, the figure of the writer stands proud in-front of the café which has a homey cosy atmosphere and is pleasant for coffee, whether it be indoors or out on the terrace. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PNBXW The Kavana E-2, Županijska 2, the.kavana@gmail.com. Right beside Osijek's famous rocket-steepled cathedral, The Kavana is an odd but agreeablevcollision of Central-European coffee-house and hip modern café, drawing on a loyal and broadly-based clientele that veers from Ladies Who Like to Wear Hats to student hipsters in shaggy jumpers. The bar staff's tendency to provide a musical backdrop made up of loud teen-disco tracks doesn't seem to drive away the daytime coffee-and-conversation crowd. There are good views of Gornji Grad's main square through the big windows. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PJNBXW Trica E-2, Lučki prilaz 2, tel. (+385-31) 77 84 14. The place where most of Osijek comes for a daytime coffee, Trica occupies a split-level space that encompasses three rooms, each decorated in a different style, and a conservatory terrace in the back courtyard. A good choice of Ilok, Kutjevo and Baranja wines makes for an extensive wine list. The music is just low enough to allow for animated conversation. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PNGBXW

Šetač E-2, Trg slobode 2. The café carries the name of one

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Bars
Radićeva this is the classiest and the cosiest. Subdued lighting, wooden furnishings, the basement location and an unobtrusive musical soundtrack make it very easy to settle in here for a quick drink and not get up again for hours. Good range of bottled beers behind the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PBXW Excalibur F-2, Franje Krežme 22. The name says it all, walk into this medieval dungeon which is packed with novel goodies dating back to the times when chivalry was honor. Take the time to order a drink whilst relishing the swords, shields, flails and other items on the walls. Iron chandeliers, wooden floors and doors add to the ambiance. Rock music is the go here and it's a good place for warm-up drinks before continuing your night out! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. NBXW General von Becker's F-2, Franje Kuhača 13. Lovely barrel-vaulted space on Tvrđa's central square. The reproduction Baroque prints on the walls make it something of a museum to Habsburg-era nostalgia, although most patrons are too busy slugging back bottles of Karlovačko to notice. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 08:30 04:00, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. B Siesta E-2, Petra Preradovića 3. Positioned right across the Preradovićeva Promenade and inside an old building with high ceilings, this café bar is decorated in the more classical style. Take a seat in the cosy leather armchairs where besides sipping on coffee you can enjoy the jazz nights, poetry nights or even short theatre shows which are organized from time to time. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. EBXW Voodoo E-2, Sunčana 8. Boasting a tightly knit trio of small and smoky first-floor rooms, each decorated with changing displays of local artwork, Voodoo has been a cult hangout for Osijek's alternative set for years. Rock and indie forms the musical backdrop most nights; there are also live music events and themed DJ parties - when it can be a struggle to get inside the door, never mind locate the bar. In season the back courtyard opens up for relaxed summer-night drinking. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00.

Amsterdam E-2, Radićeva 18. Of all the bars along

Matrix F-2, Kuhačeva 15. In the heart of the Tvrđa nightlife district, Matrix is a minimally decorated, moodily lit bar with live music and DJ parties in the basement. Friday and Saturday are the key nights for disco-till-you-drop action, although Thursday's ‘Student Room' night draws a particularly thirsty breed of hedonistic young creature. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Sat 07:00 - 04:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00. PX Medium Music & Dance Hall E-3, Jadranska 8, tel. (+385-31) 49 76 76/(+385-) 091 192 41 47, info@ medium-mdh.hr, www.medium-mdh.hr. Located among former industrial buildings southwest of the train and bus stations, this is the ideal venue for live music and club events, where you might come across anything from DJ nights to gigs by Croatia's finest rock-pop attractions - and top bands from the ex-Yugoslav region too. Genres range from world music through indie rock to hip-hop, and the bar prices are very reasonable too. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. PLX Oxygen Club A-1/2, Županijska 7. You do not need an oxygen tank or mask to get in dear readers but you do need some enthusiasm and cheer. Located in the city centre, this is an ideal place for the mid 20's and upper crowd. By the way, jazz music is on Thursdays from 21:00 onwards. QOpen Thu, Fri 20:00 - 01:00, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PJGBX Tufna F-2, Franje Kuhača 10, tel. (+385-31) 21 50 20/ (+385-) 098 55 34 44, intuit@os.t-com.hr, www.tufna. hr. This club recently made its debut at the site of the old Posh club and despite its recent opening, you can rely on it to be one of the best night spots in the city. Provided you are more than 21 years of age, you can roll in to check out two floors of Osijek locals getting down to disco and top 40 on the ground floor while digging the unique black and white décor, or the basement and its polychromatic color scheme and electro beats. Q Open Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00. PAGW

Pubs
Old Bridge Pub F-2, Franje Kuhača 4, tel. (+385-31) 21 16 11, info@oldbridgepub.hr, oldbridgepub.com. This is cleaner, brighter and posher than any of the old pubs we mis-spent our youths in, but the combination of classy brown furniture and stained-glass windows create the right atmosphere in which to slurp down handsome quantities of ale, with Erdinger, Stella, Kilkenny and Guiness on tap, and a fair few bottled beers too. Garners a healthy cross section of Osijek's going-out crowd, with everyone from bohemians to business types cramming round the bar at weekends. Q Open 07:30 - 01:00, Wed 07:30 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PAGBXW St Patrick's Pub F-2, Kuhačeva 15, tel. (+385-31) 20 52 02, www.st-patricks-pub.hr. Extremely agreeable cafébar-pub on the main Tvrđa square, with comfy green leather booths, Irish beer adverts that look charming rather than just plain predictable, and a huge outdoor terrace that is the ideal place to sun yourself once the weather begins to warm up in spring. The amount of Chelsea FC memorabilia hanging beside the bar is alarmingly inexplicable, but everyone is entitled to their eccentricities. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. PABXW Swan Pub E-2, Kapucinska 40. Hidden away down a graffiti-bedecked passageway that links Kapucinska ulica with the Zimska luka waterfront, the Swan is the kind of Euro-pub that gets the authentic details just about right: solid wood furnishings, warm green and burgundy colours, and a host of sepia-photographs and other memorabilia covering the walls. With adult-rock music played at tolerable volumes it attracts a spread of generations, and there is a large outdoor terrace come the warmer months. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PBX osijek.inyourpocket.com

Clubs
bastion@gmail.com. And so you enter a club and just like any other you listen to music or even see a DJ perform. But Bastion has an added bonus: as it is located in one of the Tvrđa towers, it has an open summer terrace with great views of the Drava River. Its three bars and music tunes will have you dancing till dawn. Great vibe! Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. B Cocktail BarKa F-2, The right bank of the River Drava (between the footbridge and the road bridge), www. cocktailbarka.com. Occupying an old ship moored on the Riverfront just below the Tvrđa, Barka is one of Osijek's more enjoyable destinations for an uncomplicated, alcohol-oiled night out. A top floor illuminated by mirrorball-generated revolving blobs of light is reserved for commercial dance music DJs; while the lower-deck space caters for lovers of Croatian and ex-Yugoslav pop-rock. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 05:00. April - October 31 Open Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. X Klub Mini Teatar F-2, Trg Vatroslava Lisinskog bb - VIII Bastion, Tvrđa, jelenadunic@hotmail.com. The beer is cheap and the music is loud. It might be punk, it might be rock. Q Open Thu, Fri and Sat 18:00 - 02:00. EG

Bastion F-2, Trg Vatroslava Lisinskog bb, nightclub.

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Osijek In Your Pocket

wHAt to see
Tourist information

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20 37 55, tzosijek@tzosijek.hr, www. tzosijek.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. June - September Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. J Tvrđa Tourist Information Centre F-2, Trg Sv.Trojstva 5, tel. (+385-31) 21 01 20, tzosijek@ tzosijek.hr, www.tzosijek.hr. Every first Saturday in the month open 09:00 -13:00. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Osijek-Baranja County Tourist Board E-2, Kapucinska 40, tel. (+385-31) 21 48 52, info@tzosbarzup. hr, www.tzosbarzup.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Gornji Grad Tourist Inf ormation Centre E-2, Županijska 2, tel. (+385-31)

Essential Osijek
Co-cathedral of St Peter and Paul (Konkatedrala sv. Petra i Pavla) E-2, Trg Pape Ivana Pavla II, tel.
(+385-31) 31 00 20, zupa@svpetaripavao.hr, www. svpetaripavao.hr. The multi-tiered 90-metre spire of this red-brick neo-Gothic beast provides the city with its defining visual trade-mark. The church was built in the 1890s on the initiative of energetic Đakovo-based Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer, who reckoned that a 3000-capacity parish church was just what a growing town like Osijek needed. The church is entered via a small door to the right of the main portal, overlooked by a ferocious-looking trio of gargoyles. The interior is a treasure trove of neo-gothic ornamentation, with a succession of pinnacled altars overlooked by exuberant stained glass windows. The interior was finished off in 1938-42 when leading Croatian painter Mirko Rački covered the walls and ceilings with brightly coloured frescoes illustrating episodes from the Old and New Testaments - most of which will be easily identifiable to anyone who paid attention during Bible class. Holy masses are held daily at 07:00 and 18:30 and on Sun at 06:30, 07:30, 08:30, 10:00, 11:30 and 18:30, July, August 18:30, Sun 06:30, 08:30, 10:00, 18:30. QOpen 06:30 - 19:00.

broad tree-lined boulevard that streaks eastwards from Gornji Grad towards Tvrđa is famed throughout Europe for harboring one of the best-preserved ensembles of Art Nouveau houses in this corner of the continent. Ranked side by side on the north side of the avenue (numbers 12 to 22), they were commissioned by filthy-rich industrialists and hot-shot lawyers in the years just before World War II. Wilim Karl Hofbauer, Ante Slaviček and Franz Wybird were the Osijek-based architects responsible for most of the work. Take a look at the twirlyhaired goddesses peering down from no.22, or the gargoylelike faces perusing passers-by from the façade of no. 12, to get an idea of the fanciful decorative tastes of the era. On the opposite side of the road, the main post office (built in 1912) on the corner of Europska Avenija and Kardinala Stepinca is an impressive example of the more functional, less frivolous architecture of the epoch. Museum of Slavonia (Muzej Slavonije) F-2, Trg Svetog Trojstva 6, Tvrđa, tel. (+385-31) 25 07 30, muzejslavonije@mso.hr, www.mso.hr. Housed in an eighteenthcentury mansion built for the town magistrate, the museum has a collection covering the period from prehistory to the present day, making this one of the most important museums in the country. Roman-era tombstones fill the ground-floor hallway. Several rooms of clocks, muskets and other oddities await inspection upstairs. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thursday 09:00 - 20:00 (May 1 - October 30 09:00 - 22:00), Sat 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 18kn. Free entry on Sundays. F-2, Europska avenija 9, tel. (+385-31) 25 12 80/ (+385-31) 25 12 88, gluo@gluo.hr, www.gluo.hr. This all-embracing collection of Slavonian art contains something for everyone, kicking off with some imposing nineteenthcentury portraits of local aristocrats. Most striking of these is The Pejačević Family in the Park (1811) by German society painter Friedrich Johann Lieder, which fills an entire wall and shows the landowning dynasty lolling around in front of one of their many stately homes. If you want to really impress the locals with your knowledge of nineteenth-century Slavonian painting, then Adolf Waldinger (1843-1904) is the name to drop. Son of an Osijek wine merchant, Waldinger won a place at the Academy of Fine Art in Vienna but failed to graduate, and struggled to earn money as an art teacher before dying penniless and largely forgotten. He's now considered one of Slavonia's greatest landscape painters - the moody, atmospheric canvases on display here help to explain why. Things get more steamy as the collection moves on to the early twentieth-century, when most local artists seemed bent on painting pictures of semi-naked ladies flouncing around in bedrooms. If you can bear to part company with these, a room or two of abstract works by contemporary painters brings things up to date. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. July 5 - September 5 Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn. The Drava riverfront. The River Drava is an essential part of Osijek's character and its difficult to see how the locals would survive without strolling along its southern bank at least a couple of times a week. Main focus of activity is the Zimska Luka (“Winter Harbour”), a row of boat moorings below the Hotel Osijek where you'll find a handful of floating restaurants, and a row of cubby-hole cafés which explode out onto the pavement in spring and summer. From here, pedestrians and cyclists glide eastwards along Šetalište Franje Šepera, the riverside embankment that leads past a sequence of flowerbeds and grassy parks. At the eastern end of the embankment, the sight of the red-brick Tvrđa fortress district rising out of the surrounding greenery is truly wondrous to behold.

European Avenue (Europska avenija) E/F-2. The

Osijek Art Gallery (Galerija likovnih umjetnosti)

The Power by Mario Šućur

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wHAt to see
The Kompa D-1. Looking not much more than a wooden platform with a hut-like cabin on top, Osijek's much-loved “Kompa” (“ferry“) transports foot passengers from Gornji Grad to the opposite bank of the Drava. It's a remarkably simple contraption, using the force of the river current as the main means of propulsion - the ferry is held by a chain to prevent it from simply floating off downriver. Popular with families making their way to Osijek zoo (see Parks), the Kompa shuttles back and forth whenever the komparoš (captain) espies enough passengers to make the trip worthwhile. Open April 15 - October 09:00 - 21:00. Q Free of charge. Tvrđa F-2. An eighteenth-century complex of cobbled streets, grandiose buildings and open squares, Tvrđa (“Citadel”) is the best-preserved ensemble of Baroque buildings anywhere in Croatia. It began life in 1687, when Habsburg armies kicked Ottoman forces out of Osijek and decided to turn the town into the military nerve-centre of eastern Slavonia. Austrian engineers demolished most of the existing buildings, moved the city center westwards to today's Gornji Grad, and spent the next 35 years building a planned settlement comprising barracks, staff headquarters, churches and monasteries, all surrounded by a state-of-theart system of moats, bastions and gun positions. Most of the outer fortifications have long since been demolished, but the heart of the Tvrđa still survives in its original form.At the centre of Tvrđa is Trg svetog Trojstva (Holy Trinity Square), a broad traffic-free expanse dominated on the northern side by a monumental three-storey building that once housed the Habsburg high command. On the western side, the arcaded house with a spindly lookout tower originally accommodated Osijek's town guard. Stretching either side of the square is a grid-plan of streets, each lined with elegant ochre-colored buildings where Austrian bureaucrats once toiled over their military plans. A zig-zagging stretch of the outer fortifications still survives on the northeastern edge of Tvrđa. Head down the street Fakultetska to find the Water Gate (Vodena vrata), one of the last surviving fortress gates, which leads through to the grass-fringed banks of the River Drava.
prayer, its extrovert custard-colored façade framed by twin towers topped by metallic onion-shaped domes. The interior features an extravagantly-decorated baroque pulpit, and an animated high-altar painting of St Michael the Archangel battling with demons. Mass is daily at 18:30, Sat at 07:30 and Sun at 08:30, 10:30 and 18:30. Closed Monday. Q Open during mass and by prior arrangement.

F-2, Trg Vatroslava Lisinskog 3, Tvrđa, tel. (+385-31) 20 81 77, kontakt@franjevci.com, www.franjevci.com. The Franciscans spearheaded the renewal of Catholic life in Slavonia in the years following the Ottoman occupation, and built this fine monastery church to serve as their spiritual centre. The interior contains a wealth of Baroque and Rococo ornamentation, although it's the gothic statue of Our Lady of Osijek (Naša Gospa Osječka), a rosy-cheeked Madonna cradling a plump Christ-Child, that draws most in the way of local pilgrims. The accompanying monastery was the site of a theology academy and, after 1735, Slavonia's first printing press. The reformist Habsburg Emperor Joseph II kicked the Franciscans out of Osijek in 1783, and they had to wait until 1938 to get their property back. To visit the church you should just ring to the door of the monastery and it will be opened for you. Holy masses are held daily at 07:00 and 18:00, on Sun at 07:00, 09:00 and 18:00. Q Open 30 minutes before the mass and by prior arrangement.

The Church of the Holy Cross (Crkva sv.Križa)

Landmarks
Pejačević fountain (Pejačevićev zdenac) E-2, Drava riverfront. This decidedly odd Art-Nouveau-esque object was built by Count Pavle Pejačević in 1903 to beautify the city's riverfront. Four chunky pillars, each sprouting ornate ironwork swirls, support a central canopy that looks like a magician's hat. Sadly the fountain is no longer in function, but the surviving structure is a fitting tribute to the prosperous, forward-looking Osijek of the pre-World War I era.

Architecture
Europa Cinema E-2, Šetalište Petra Preradovića 2. It may look like a graceless pile of red bricks at first sight, but this cubist construction of 1930s-vintage is much treasured by local architecture buffs, who hail it as an outstanding example of modern architecture. If you like straight-line minimalism, Europa will have you gibbering with delight. The cinema has been closed since June 2011. Urania Cinema E-2, Šetalište V.Hengla 1, tel. (+38531) 21 15 60. The Urania was designed by Viktor Arman in 1912 and quickly became a much-discussed local landmark. Comprising a sensuous curvy roof and a vertical-striped façade, it looks like a huge church organ let loose on the city streets. A peach-colored paint-job (the result of recent renovations) only adds to the unsettling effect.The cinema has been closed since October 2011.

Churches
Chapel of St. Rocco (Kapelica sv. Roka) D-2, Solarski trg b.b.. Built in 1740 as a sign of deliverance from the plagues that ravaged Osijek throughout the 1730s, this is one of Osijek's delightful Baroque churches, complete with an Austrianate onion dome. Mass is held only on special occasions. Q Open during mass only. Parish Church of St. Michael (Župna crkva sv. Mihaela) F-2, Trg Jurja Križanića 2, Tvrđa, tel. (+385-31)
20 89 90. When Habsburg forces re-captured Osijek from the Turks, Jesuit priests arrived and converted this former mosque into one of the city's most handsome houses of

The Most by Mario Šućur

Osijek In Your Pocket

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U Muzeju Slavonije čuva se najstarija tambura u Hrvatskoj 1847. osnovan prvi tamburaški orkestar u Hrvatskoj

Slama festival

osječka 14 okolica

kupovina 14

sport i 13 rekreacija

noćni 12 život

gastronomija 10

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Prve ilustrirane novine u Hrvatskoj 1869

smještaj

Najstarije hrvatsko pivo sa izvornom recepturom i tradicionalnim načinom proizvodnje Osječka pivovara 1697

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korisne informacije

PROMETNE INFORMACIJE AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR E-3, Bartola Kašića 70, tel. (+385-) 060 35 33 53, turist.os@app.hr, www.app.hr Reprezentativan vanjski izgled, podzemna garaža koja radi non-stop (sat parkiranja stoji tri kune), teretana i glazba koja se širi kompleksom. Ono najvažnije nalazi se nedaleko od glavnog ulaza u zgradu: šalter za informacije (00:00–24:00) i kupovinu karata (05:00–21:00) BENZINSKE POSTAJE INA ČEPINskA D-3, Leopolda Mandića 50, tel. (+385-) 091 497 10 97, www.ina.hr. Radno vrijeme: 00:00 – 24:00.
OMV sTROssMAyEROVA B-2, Josipa Jurja Strossmayera 335, tel. (+385-31) 37 71 65. Radno vrijeme: 06:00 – 24:00. PETROl JužNA OBIlAzNICA Južna obilaznica bb, tel. (+385-31) 27 52 58, www.petrol.hr. Radno vrijeme: 06:00 – 22:00. TIFON OsIJEk 2 E/F-2, Vukovarska 49, tel. (+385-) 091 464 10 54. Radno vrijeme: 00:00 – 24:00.

Turističke informacije
TIC GORNJI GRAD E-2, Županijska 2, tel. (+385-31) 20 37 55, tzosijek@tzosijek.hr, www.tzosijek.hr.

Radno vrijeme: 07:00 - 16:00, subotom 08:00 - 12:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. Lipanj - rujan 07:00 - 20:00, subotom 08:00 - 12:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno.
TIC TVRĐA F-2, Trg Sv. Trojstva 5, tel. (+385-31) 21 01 20, tzosijek@tzosijek.hr, www.tzosijek.hr.

Radno vrijeme: 10:00 - 16:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno, a svaka prva subota u mjesecu 09:00 - 13:00.
Tz OsIJEČkO BARANJskA žuPANIJA E-2, Kapucinska 40, tel. (+385-31) 21 48 52, info@tzosbarzup.hr, www.tzosbarzup.hr.

JAVNI PRIJEVOZ Osječki autobusi i tramvaji voze od 05:00 do 23:00 sata, neki i do ponoći. Dvije su vrste karata, one papirnate koje možete kupiti kod vozača po cijeni od 10 kuna i koje vrijede za 45 minuta vožnje, te one elektroničke zvane butre pomoću kojih se registrirate prilikom svakog ulaska i izlaska u vozilo. Izrada elektroničke kartice, ako to činite prvi put, stoji 40 kuna, a na raspolaganju imate iznos 20 kuna. Cijena vožnje s butrom je jeftinija, za vožnju od 45 minuta, bez obzira na broj presjedanja s kartice vam se skida samo 8 kuna. Elektroničke kartice mogu se kupiti kod vozača, na kioscima Tiska, GPP dućanu u ulici Cara Hadrijana 1 ili na Trgu Ante Starčevića u pothodniku. Kada potrošite sav iznos na kartici, možete je nadopuniti za iznos koji želite kod vozača ili na najbližem kiosku. Najskuplja vožnja je, dakako, ona bez karte. Ulove li vas, kazna je 250 kuna. PARKING
ElEkTROMODul D-2, Andrije Hebranga 7, tel. (+385-31) 35 84 11, elektromodul@elektromodul.hr, www.elektromodul. hr

Radno vrijeme: 07:00 - 15:30. Subotom i nedjeljom zatvoreno.

PAUK SLUŽBA
PAuk OsIJEk D-2, Ivana Gundulića 168, tel. (+385-31) 63 78 50. Pogrešno parkiranje stajat će vas kazne i ako ste se zatekli na mjestu događaja u trenutku kad je započelo dizanja vozila. Pokušaj podizanja naplaćuje se 250 kuna, odvoženje nepropisno parkiranog vozila stajat će vas 500 kuna i 50 dodatnih kuna za svaki dan čuvanja vozila. Tome valja pribrojiti i policijske kazne koje se, ovisno o težini prekršaja, kreću od 300 do 700 kuna. Ako vam pauk odveze vozilo, možete ga preuzeti na adresi Ivana Gundulića 168 od 00:00 do 24:00 sata. RENT A CAR AlBATROs E-2, Ribarska 4 (Esseker Centar), tel. (+385-31) 30 49 00, 091 636 32 20, info@albatros-rentacar.hr, www.albatros-rentacar.hr. Radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 16:00, subotom 08:00 – 12:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. H&M E-2, Šetalište kardinala Franje Šepera 8c, tel. (+385-) 098 86 78 40, drazen@hm-rentacar.hr, www. hm-rentacar.hr. Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 19:00. HERTz D-2, Gundulićeva 32, tel. (+385-31) 20 04 22, 091 518 03 39, osijek.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr.

Vodite računa o tome gdje parkirate. U gradu su tri parkirne zone, u prvoj parkiranje stoji 4 kune po satu, u drugoj 3, u trećoj 2 kune po satu parkiranja. Ako ne kupite parkirnu kartu, kazna je u visini dnevne karte, ovisno o zoni u kojoj se nalazite: 46 kuna (zona 3), 59 kuna (zona 2) i 72 kune (zona 1). 2 ??City?? In Your Pocket

??city??.inyourpocket.com

Fontana na Trgu Ante Starčevića, Marin Topić (autor fotografije)

Radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 12:00, 17:00 – 20:00, subotom 08:00 – 13:00. Nedjeljom po dogovoru.
uNI RENT E-3, Reisnerova 70, tel. (+385-31) 20 50 58, 099 321 45 01, osijek@uni-rent.hr, www.uni-rent. net. Radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 16:00, subotom 09:00 – 12:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno.

VIP TAxI –

tel. (+385-) 099 800 80 08

Prvih pet kilometara vožnje naplatit će vam 25 kuna, a svaki sljedeći kilometar 7 kuna. Čekanje duže od 10 minuta stoji 1 kunu po minuti, dok je prijevoz prtljage besplatan. ZRAČNA LUKA KLISA Vukovarska 67, Klisa, tel. (+385-31) 51 44 02, fax. (+385-31) 51 44 60, opc@osijek-airport.hr, www. osijek-airport.hr Za sve informacije o avionskim kartama i rasporedu letenja najbolje je kontaktirati zračnu luku ili provjeriti njenu web stranicu. ŽELJEZNIČKI KOLODVOR
E-3, Trg Lavoslava Ružičke 2, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hznet.hr

TAKSI – tel. (+385-31) 12 12 www.taxi-cammeo.com
CAMMEO

Startna cijena uključuje prvih 5 kilometara vožnje i stoji 20 kuna. Svaki sljedeći kilometar naplaćuje se 5 kuna. Noćne vožnje se ne naplaćuju dodatno, a čekanje duže od 5 minuta stoji 1 kunu po minuti.
sTuDENT TAxI

– tel. (+385-31) 20 01 00

Ovo je prvi zeleni taksi u Slavoniji. Prvih 5 kilometara vožnje stoji 20 kuna, svaki sljedeći kilometar 7 kuna. Sat čekanja stoji 20 kuna. Prijevoz prtljage je besplatan.

Broj za hitne slučajeve
??city??.inyourpocket.com

112

Odlučite li se za putovanje vlakom, šalter za domaći promet željezničkog kolodvora otvoren je od 04:50 do 21:40 sati, a onaj za međunarodni promet od 07:30 do 15:00 sati. Kiosk, bankomati i café-bar su na raspolaganju 24 sata, kao i wc čije se korištenje naplaćuje 2 kune. 3 January - February 2009

korisne informacije

korisne informacije

Servisne informacije
Dežurne ljekarne
CENTAR E-2, Trg Ante Starčevića 7, tel. (+385-31) 20 57 22.

Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 22:00, subotom 10:00 – 18:00, nedjeljeom 14:00 – 22:00. 5 – 10kn/1sat

lOGG - INN E-3, Kardinala Alojzija Stepinca 38b, tel. (+385-31) 21 45 58, 098 971 49 40.

PREss INTERNET CAFé E-2, Lorenza Jaegera 24, tel. (+385-31) 21 23 13.

Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 23:00, nedjeljom 08:00 – 23:00. 15kn/1sat,
GlAVNI POšTANskI uRED E-2, Kardinala Alojzija Stepinca 17, tel. (+385-31) 25 36 00.

Pošta

Radno vrijeme: 07:30 – 21:00. Dežurstvo 21:00 – 07:00.
PARk F-2, Park kralja Petra Krešimira IV 6, tel. (+385-31) 20 83 30, park@ljekarnaosijek.hr, www.ljekarna-osijek.hr,

Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 20:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno.

Turističke agencije
CETRATOuR D-3, Ivana Gundulića 61a, tel. (+385-31) 37 29 20, 37 29 21, info@cetratour.hr, www.cetratour.hr.

Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 20:00, subotom 07:30 – 21:00, nedjeljom 07:00 – 21:00.

Internet
DIGITAl DEsIGN E-3, Reisnerova 38, tel. (+385-31) 21 41 66, www.digitaldesign.hr.

Radno vrijeme: 08:30 – 16:00. Subotom i nedjeljom zatvoreno.

PANTuRIsT B-2, Kapucinska 19, tel. (+385-31) 21 43 88, turizam@panturist.hr, www.panturist.hr.

Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 21:00, nedjeljom 15:00 – 21:00. 4-8kn /1h

Radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 19:00, subotom 08:00 – 13:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. Svibanj – Rujan 08:00 – 20:00, subotom 08:00 – 13:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno.

HOTELI

Trg Ante Starčevića 6, tel. (+38531) 28 33 99, fax. (+385-31) 28 38 91, info@ hotel-central-os.hr, www.hotel-central-os.hr **
DRAVA D/E-3, Ivana Gundulića 25a, tel. (+38531) 25 05 00, fax. (+385-31) 25 05 03, drava1@ optinet.hr, www.hotel-drava.com *** MIllENNIuM G-3, Kralja P.Svačića 12, tel. (+38531) 53 13 30, fax. (+385-31) 53 13 31, info@ hotel-millennium.hr,www.hotel-millennium.hr *** OsIJEk E-2, Šamačka 4, tel. (+385-31) 23 03 33, fax. (+385-31) 23 04 44, info@hotelosijek.hr, www.hotelosijek.hr **** sIlVER G-3, Martina Divalta 84, tel. (+385-31) 58 25 35, fax. (+385-31) 58 25 36, hotel@hotel-silver.hr, www.hotel-silver.hr *** VIlA ARIsTON E-3, A.K.Miošića 6, tel. (+38531) 25 13 51, fax. (+385-31) 25 13 50, ariston.d.o.o@os.t-com.hr, www.hotelaristonosijek. hr *** WAlDINGER E-2, Županijska 8, tel. (+385-31) 25 04 50, fax. (+385-31) 25 04 53, info@waldinger.hr, www.waldinger.hr ****

CENTRAl E-2,

REGINA E-2, Županijska 6, tel. (+385-31) 20 22 03, 098 969 95 90, fax. (+385-31) 20 20 30, regina.osijek@gmail.com, www.reginosijek.hr WAlDINGER E-2, Županijska 8, tel. (+385-31) 25 04 50, fax. (+385-31) 25 04 53, info@waldinger.hr, www. waldinger.hr PRIVATNI SMJEŠTAJ MAksIMIlIAN F-2, Franjevačka 12, tel. (+385-31) 49 75 67, 091 252 38 34, info@maksimilian.hr, www. maksimilian.hr PRENOČIšTE HElENA E-3, Vinkovačka 2, tel. (+385-) 091 461 90 47, 091 461 90 44, Ivana@prehrana.net, www.prehrana.net RITAM C-2, Kozjačka 76, tel. (+385-31) 31 03 10, 091 782 54 24, fax. (+385-31) 31 03 12, hotel-ritam@ hotel-ritam.hr, www.hotel-ritam.hr sMJEšTAJ OsIJEk D-2, Adolfa Waldingera 12, tel. (+385-) 091 300 70 70, fax. (+385-31) 36 90 19, iva@smjestaj-osijek.com, www.smjestaj-osijek.com VIllA sVETI ROk D-2, Svetog Roka 13, tel. (+385-31) 31 04 90, fax. (+385-31) 31 04 99, villa.sveti.rok@ os.t-com.hr, www.villa-sveti-rok.hr

smještaj

PANSIONI
FITEA H-3, Srijemska 27, tel. (+385-31) 50 85 08,

Hostel
TuFNA F-2, Franje Kuhača 10/I, tel. (+385-31) 21 50 20, 098 55 34 44, fax. (+385-31) 21 50 21, intuit@os.t-com.hr, www.tufna.hr

098 30 93 65, 098 185 35 21, fax. (+385-31) 50 75 78, fitea@fitea.hr, www.fitea.hr 4 ??City?? In Your Pocket

??city??.inyourpocket.com

Citadela – dio osječke Tvrđe, Marin Topić (autor fotografije)

DRAVskI NAsIP Rijeka Drava je neraskidiv dio Osijeka, ona mu daje posebnu draž. Šteta bi bilo ne prošetati duž nasipa, ne provozati se biciklističkim stazama, ne pridružiti se ribičima, ili se za ljetnih dana osvježiti na kupalištu. Zimska luka s restoranima i klubovima na vodi, ispijanje kave s pogledom na rijeku, sve je to ona dodana vrijednost što je Drava daje Osijeku. A tu je i nezaobilazna Kompa i njen komparoš, splav koja prebacuje putnike s obale kod Solarskog trga na drugu stranu Drave, do Tvrđavice i Zoološkog vrta. Splav je privezana za čelično uže koje povezuje stupove na dvije obale i nosi je riječna struja. Vozila je od 1916. do 1932. godine, kada je ukinuta i zamijenjena čamcima. Nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata, od 1948. godine ponovno svakodnevno prevozi putnike, od travnja do studenoga, besplatno od 09:00 do 21:00. EuROPskA AVENIJA Ova široka avenija što povezuje Gornji grad i Tvrđu znana je po jednom od najbolje očuvanih nizova secesijskih kuća u ovom dijelu Europe. Kuće su do pred Drugi svjetski rat uglavnom bile u vlasništvu bogatih industrijalaca i uglednih građana i pružaju izvrstan uvid u arhitekturu privatnih kuća toga razdoblja. Na fasadama kuća od broja 12 do 22 još se mogu vidjeti vodorige i božice kako prate prolaznike. Na suprotnoj strani ulice nalazi se zgrada glavne pošte.
E/F-2

TRG ANTE sTARČEVIĆA
E-2 Gradski život i bilo stanovnika Osijeka najlakše

se može opipati na glavnom osječkom trgu, prepoznatljivom po svom trokutastom obliku. Posebice je na njemu živo za topla vremena kada ga ožive djeca uokolo njegovih fontana, pune terase kafića, zaljubljeni parovi… TRG slOBODE Trg slobode izdvaja se veličinom i izgledom. Nalazi se u pješačkoj zoni, između ulice Hrvatske republike i Kapucinske. Trg u cjelinu zavidne ljepote povezuje spomenik palim borcima u Domovinskom ratu, dječje igralište, vodeni zid i park. Kažu, jedan je to od najljepših trgova u Hrvatskoj.
E-2

TVRĐA Neazaobilazan dio Osijeka je Tvrđa. Sa svojim kompleksom ulica, trgova i zgrada iz 18. stoljeća, Tvrđa je najuščuvaniji primjer barokne gradnje u Hrvatskoj. Austrijska vojska počela ju je graditi 1712. godine kao grad–tvrđavu po uzoru na nizozemske vojne utvrde i kao dio kompleksa utvrđenih gradova na granici s otomanskim carstvom. Do 1722. godine je većim dijelom bila završena, a manje intervencije obavljale su se sve do 60ih godina 19. stoljeća. Bila je okružena jarcima, zidinama sa 4 vrata, bastionima i stražarnicama. U središtu Tvrđe nalazi se glavni trg, Trg Svetog Trojstva, kojim danas dominira zgrada Glavne
F-2

??city??.inyourpocket.com

5 January - February 2009

razgledajte

razgledajte
Osječka Tvrđa iz zraka, Marin Topić (autor fotografije)

straže u kojoj je Arheološki muzej. Na sjevernoj strani je zgrada Gradskog magistrata u kojoj je danas Muzej Slavonije. Uz vojne objekte, skladišta, tu su i građanske kuće, obrti, najstarija pošta u Osijeku, franjevački kompleks koji je bio središte kulture i obrazovanja u 18. i 19.stoljeću. S vremenom je vojno značenje Tvrđe slabilo. Zidine su smetale pri povezivanju Tvrđe s ostatkom grada i ruše se od 1923. do 1926. godine. Ostaju samo jedna, sjeverna, Vodena vrata prema Dravi, u kojima se danas nalazi spomen-ploča graditelju Tvrđe generalu Johannu Stephanu von Beckersu. Tvrđa je danas dom mnogih fakulteta i zabavnih sadržaja, osobito za mlade, te kulturnih sadržaja i muzeja.

Most mladosti
E-2 Ovaj pješački viseći most preko Drave jedan je od simbola grada. Izgrađen je 1979. godine i zahvaljujući modernom dizajnu i atraktivnom izgledu, čest je motiv osječkih razglednica.

CRkVA sVETOG kRIžA
F-2,

Trg Vatroslava Lisinskog 3, Tvrđa

Crkve

CRkVA PREslAVNOG IMENA MARIJINA
H-2, Crkvena 34, tel. (+385-31) 50 32 22, zupa@imemarijino.hr, www.imemarijino.hr

Crkvu svetog Križa podigli su Franjevci početkom 18.st, a dovršena je 1732. godine. Uređena je u duhu baroka i rokokoa, no ono što najviše privlači hodočasnike je gotički kip Gospe Osječke. Povijest kipa bila je burna. U Osijek je stigao iz mjesta Jud, i to samo na čuvanje. No, kako je vrijeme prolazilo, događala su se mnoga čudesa koja se vezuju uz kip, čuda toliko velika da kip postaje Gospa Osječka i ostaje u Osijeku. Mise se održavaju radnim danom u 07:00 i 18:00, nedjeljom u 07:00, 09:00 i 18:00. Crkva je otvorena pola sata prije mise. kAPElICA sVETOG ROkA
D-2,

Tražite li najljepšu crkvu Donjega grada, ako ne i najljepšu osječku crkvu, mnogi će vam reći da je to baš ova. Svoj današnji oblik dobila 1792. godine, baroknog je stila, iznad ulaza je toranj na dva kata sa sivom kupolom nalik tulipanu. Unutrašnjost je nježne ružičaste boje i krasi je lijep barokni inventar. Mise se održavaju radnim danom u 18:30, nedjeljom u 07:00, 09:00, 11:00 i 18:30. Crkva je otvorena 08:30 – 12:00 i 16:00 – 19:00. 6 ??City?? In Your Pocket

Solarski trg bb

Ova mala kasnobarokna crkva podignuta je u Donjem gradu 1741. godine kao zavjet svetom Roku, zaštitniku od kuge koja je Slavonijom harala 30-tih godina 17. stoljeća. Posjetiti se može samo za vrijeme misa koje se održavaju na posebne blagdane i dane. ??city??.inyourpocket.com

E-2, Trg Pape Ivana Pavla II, tel. (+385-31) 31 00 20, zupa@svpetaripavao.hr, www.svpetaripavao.hr Jedan od simbola grada Osijeka zasigurno je 90 metara visok toranj crvene neogotičke crkve u čiju je izradu utrošeno više od tri milijuna cigala! Crkva je izgrađena 1890-ih na inicijativu biskupa Josipa Jurja Strossmayera koji ju je i posvetio 1900. godine. Unutrašnjost je vrlo koloristički oslikao slikar Mirko Rački, radeći na tome četiri godine, prekrivši zidove i stropove slikama iz Staroga i Novog zavjeta. Crkvu krasi i 40 vitraja izrađenih u bečkoj tvornici Gold. Do 2008. godine bila je to ‘samo’ župna crkva, uspostavom Đakovačko-osječke nadbiskupije postala je konkatedrala, no u Osijeku su je uvijek zvali – katedralom. Za Domovinskog je rata konkatedrala bila više puta napadana, ali bogoslužje u njoj nikada nije prekinuto.

Mise se održavaju radnim danom u 07:00 i 18:30, nedjeljom u 06:30, 07:30, 08:30, 10:00, 11:30 i 18:30, tijekom srpnja i kolovoza radnim danom u 18:30, nedjeljom u 06:30, 08:30, 10:00, 18:30. žuPNA CRkVA sVETOG MIHAElA
F-2, Trg Jurja Križanića 2, Tvrđa tel. (+385-31) 20 89 90

Marin Topić (autor fotografije)

Muzeji i galerije
ARHEOlOškI MuzEJ
F-2,

Crkva je građena u baroknom stilu i tek je malo manja od konkatedrale. Sagradili su je jezuiti nakon odlaska Turaka na mjestu stare džamije. Impresivno je njeno pročelje s dva zvonika. Crkva je 1750. godine posvećena Mihaelu arkanđelu, pobjedniku i njenom branitelju.

Galerija likovnih umjetnosti Osijek
F-2, Europska avenija 9, tel. (+385-31) 25 12 80, 25 12 87, gluo@gluo.hr, www. gluo.hr.

Trg Svetog Trojstva 2, Tvrđa, tel. (+385-31) 23 21 32, http://arheoloskimuzejosijek.hr, info@arheoloskimuzejosijek.hr Grad Osijek naseljen je još od kamenog doba i mnogi su narodi kroz stoljeća tu ostavili tragove svoje nazočnosti. Ti vrijedni arheološki nalazi pohranjeni su u ovom Muzeju smještenom u potpuno obnovljenoj zgradi Glavne straže. Muzej je osnovan 2005. godine i svečano otvoren 2007. godine. Dva stalna muzejska postava su Prapovijest i Seoba naroda i srednji vijek. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 19:00, četvrtkom 09:00 – 20:00 (svibanj – studeni 09:00 – 22:00), subotom 17:00 – 21:00, nedjeljom 10:00 – 14:00. Ponedjeljkom zatvoreno. Cijena ulaznice 5 – 13kn. MuzEJ slAVONIJE Trg svetog Trojstva 6, Tvrđa, tel. (+385-31) 25 07 30, muzej-slavonije@mso.hr, www.mso.hr Muzej Slavonije jedan je od najstarijih u Hrvatskoj, osnovan davne 1877. godine. Smješten je u Tvrđi,
F-2,

U Galeriji likovnih umjetnosti umjetnička djela od razdoblja baroka do danas podijeljena su u zbirke slika, crteža, grafika, skulptura i medalja 18, 19. i 20. stoljeća. Jedinstvena je zbirka slika, koje su uglavnom bile u vlasništvu slavonske aristrokacije, kako po vrijedanosti tako i po broju esksponata. Posjetitelji mogu uživati u veliku i širokom opusu slavonskih umjetnika te onih čija su djela vezana uz Slavoniju. Impresivna je slika Friedricha Johanna Gottlieba Liedera iz 1811. godine, koja prikazuje znamenitu plemićku obitelj Pejačević u perivoju virovitičkog dvorca i zauzima cijeli zid! Zbirka 20. stoljeća donosi djela hrvatskih slikara svjetskoga glasa, od Bukovca i Becića do Murtića i Knifera. Radno vrijeme: 10:00 – 18:00, četvrtkom 10:00 – 20:00, subotom i nedjeljom 10:00 – 13:00. Ponedjeljkom zatvoreno. Cijena ulaznice 5 – 10kn.

??city??.inyourpocket.com

7 January - February 2009

razgledajte

kONkATEDRAlA sVETIH PETRA I PAVlA

razgledajte
Blažeković medičar i voskar

u zgradi bivšeg poglavarstva. Prikupljena građa pokriva razdoblje od prapovijesti do danas, raspoređena je u devet odjela i Muzej čini najvećim muzejom općeg tipa u Hrvatskoj. U prizemlju posjetitelje čekaju rimske grobnice, a u gornjim prostorijama kolekcije satova, starog oružja i ostalih znamenitosti. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 19:00, četvrtkom 09:00 – 20:00 (svibanj – studeni 09:00 – 22:00), subotom 17:00 – 21:00, nedjeljom 10:00 – 14:00. Ponedjeljkom zatvoreno. Cijena ulaznice 5 – 10kn. sTAlNA IzlOžBA VODENOG sVIJETA Svodovi bb, Tvrđa, tel. (+385-31) 32 29 07, udrugagloriamaris@gmail.com, www.gloria-maris.hr
F-2,

Parkovi
Osijek je hrvatski grad s najviše parkova i zelenih površina. Ima ih 17, ukupne površine 394.000 metara četvornih. PARk kRAlJA PETRA kREšIMIRA IV Smješten uz Europsku aveniju, nasuprot Perivoju kralja Tomislava, ovo je park u kojem je jedan od najomiljenijih osječkih spomenika, onaj “Umirućem vojniku” autora Roberta Frangeša Mihanovića. Spomenik je podignut kao spomen na pale Osječane u Austro-pruskom ratu. Od 1996. godine kada je obnovljen, on je spomen na sve pale za domovinu.
F-2,

PERIVOJ kRAlJA TOMIslAVA Ovaj Perivoj povezuje Tvrđu i Gornji grad, a nastao je u 18. stoljeću za odmor i šetnju austrijskih oficira. Danas je omiljeno mjesto za šetnju Osječana. zOO
D-1, Sjevernodravska obala 1, tel. (+385-31) 28 52 34, F-2,

Ma koliko bilo teško za povjerovati, ono što je danas nepregledna slavonska ravnica, nekad je bilo Panonsko more. O njemu priča ova izložba. Uz pratnju stručnog vodstva posjetitelji će čuti i naučiti kako nastaju biseri i zašto školjke šume, vidjeti fosilne ostatke iz Panonskog mora, školjkaše iz Drave i Dunava, Kopačkog rita i Jadranskog mora, te ostalih svjetskih mora i oceana. Radno vrijeme: 10:00 – 16:00, četvrtkom 10:00 – 20:00, subotom i nedjeljom 10:00 – 13:00. Ponedjeljkom zatvoreno. Cijena ulaznice 10 – 20kn. 8 ??City?? In Your Pocket

www.zoo-osijek.hr Osječki zoološki vrt prostire se na 11 hektara površine i u njemu je nastanjeno 80-ak životinjskih vrsta. Osnovan je 1955. godine, a posebnim ga čini lokacija na lijevoj obali Drave, u Tvrđavici, u zelenilu, daleko od gradske vreve i buke. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 16:00, od svibnja do listopada 09:00 – 19:00. Cijena ulaznica 10 – 20kn. ??city??.inyourpocket.com

www.ljetokulture.osijek.hr

Svako ljeto 29. lipnja počinje višetjedna ljetna doza kulturnih događanja za građane i goste Osijeka. Obilje je to kazališnih, izložbenih, literarnih i filmskih izvedbi na raznim gradskim lokacijama, u kojima sudjeluju lokalni umjetnici, umjetnici iz ostatka Hrvatske, te umjetnici iz inozemstva.

Gostioničarka Mirandolina (arhiva HNK Osijek)

10.05. - 19.05. MEĐuNARODNI FEsTIVAl HRVATskE TAMBuRAškE GlAzBE u OsIJEku Hrvatski tamburaški savez u Osijeku, Ribarska 1/1, tel (+385-31) 28 32 53, htso@htso.hr, www.htso.hr Uz zvuke tambure rađalo se i umiralo, slavilo i tugovalo. Tamburaška glazba je dio hrvatskoga glazbenog nasljeđa, a koliko velik pokazuje ovaj festival. Započeo je 1961. godine susretima skladatelja, dirigenata i izvođača iz Hrvatske i inozemstva. Cilj je jedan – očuvati tamburašku tradicijsku glazbu i poticati njeno daljnje stvaranje! 05.07. - 07.07. ĐAkOVAČkI VEzOVI Razne lokacije po Đakovu, glavnina u užem centru grada, www.tz-djakovo.hr Raskoš i ljepotu narodnih nošnji, plesa i običaja Slavonije i Baranje te ostalih krajeva Hrvatske i svijeta najlakše je upoznati na ovoj tradicionalnoj folklornoj priredbi. Najpoznatija je to folklorna priredba u Hrvatskoj, koja svake godine okuplja sve veći broj sudionika i privlači sve više posjetitelja. 08.07. - 14.07. slAMA
F-2, Perivoj kralja Tomislava, tel. (+385-) 091 462 33 10, info@slama.hr, www.slama.hr

svake godine inspirirani novom temom stvaraju nevjerojatne skulpture velikih dimenzija, dakako od slame. Vrhunac manifestacije je vikend, kada je otvorena za širu javnost, a posebice je atraktivno zatvaranje festivala jer se skulpture na kraju pale! 14.08. - 18.08. PANNONIAN CHAllANGE www.pannonian.org Ljubitelji ekstremnih sportova ne bi smjeli propustiti natjecanje koje iz godine u godinu postaje sve veće i jače, uz sudjelovanje velikog broja domaćih i inozemnih prvaka. Na sportskim terenima uz Skate park (Srednjoškolsko igralište) i stazama na desnoj obali Drave održavaju se natjecanja na BMX-ovima, skateboardovima, in-line rolama. Sve to uz cjelodnevnu zabavu i večernji glazbeni program. kolovoz/rujan zEMlJA BEz GRANICA zemljabezgranica@gmail.com www.zemljabezgranica.com Pred kraj ljeta Osijek je grad djece svih uzrasta zahvaljujući ovoj kulturno-pedagoškoj manifestaciji koja obrađuje teme bliske i bitne djeci, od ekoloških, zdravstvenih, edukativnih do dječjih snova i maštanja. Na zadanu temu velik broj domaćih i stranih umjetnika organiziraju radionice, igraonice, predstave za djecu i s djecom na mnoštvu različitih lokacija po gradu. 9 January - February 2009

Ovaj jednotjedni land art festival jedinstven je u svijetu jer, valjda jedini, slamu koristi kao umjetnički materijal. Umjetnička je to kolonija čiji sudionici ??city??.inyourpocket.com

ne propustite

Osječko ljeto kulture

gastronomija
Ispijanje kavice u Tvrđi, Marin Topić (autor fotografije)

kAFIĆI I kAVANE Kapucinska 23, tel. (+385-31) 21 09 33, www.kubo.hr Elegantan, smješten je u blizini strogog centra grada, ostakljen taman tako da uz ispijanje kave možete nesmetano pratiti sve što se vani, u gradu, zbiva. Radno vrijeme: 06:30 – 24:00, subotom 07:00 – 24:00, nedjeljom 07:30 - 24:00.
COOkIE CAFFE E-2, Vijenac Jakova Gotovca 8, tel. (+385-31) 32 61 47. CluB E-2,

Nedaleko poznatog „gradskog šetača“ nalazi se ovo malo ali slatko mjesto! Ponuda velika: od raznih vrsta američkih kolača poput browniesa, cookiesa, cupcakesa, makrobiotičkih kolača, preko 12 vrsta sladoleda, do vrhunskih čajeva i cijeđenih sokova. Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 23:00, subotom 08:00 – 23:00, nedjeljom 09:00 – 23:00.
lOuNGE BAR WAlDINGER B-3, Svilajska 31a, tel. (+385-31) 29 81 43, www.waldinger.hr

Radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 24:00, petkom 08:00 – 01:00, subotom 09:00 – 01:00, nedjeljom 09:00 – 24:00. sAN FRANCIsCO COFFEE HOusE E-2, Radićeva 12, tel. (+385-) 091 986 46 76, denistensek@sfch.hr, www.sfch.hr Prvi američki coffee house u Hrvatskoj! Uz klasičan visokokvalitetni espresso, poslužuju i širok asortiman aromatičnih mocha i latte kava, voćnih i biljnih čajeva, frappea i toplih čokolada. Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 23:00. THE kAVANA E-2, Županijska 2, the.kavana@gmail.com Kava i novine s pogledom na trg, u urbanom i suvremenom ambijentu. Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 23:00.

Brza hrana

k TOPu F-2, Fakultetska 1, tel. (+385-31) 21 09 04

Ogladnite li u pola razgledavanja Tvrđe, evo rješenja za brz i ukusan zalogaj. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 24:00.
MAkEDONkA H-3, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 7 tel. (+385-31) 50 34 03, 099 212 59 96 www.makedonka.hr

Nudi pregršt dobrih razloga da posjetite Shopping centar Portanova u kojem se nalazi i ako nemate namjeru šopingirati. Primamit će vas bogat izbor slastica, a ako imate sreće pa navratite baš na dan kada djelatnici testiraju neke nove slatke recepte, počastit će vas novitetima, i to besplatno. 10 ??City?? In Your Pocket

Tradicionalna jela s roštilja ponajveća su odlika ove pečenjarnice, i to uz ljubaznu uslugu i u ugodnu ambijentu. Radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 23:00.

??city??.inyourpocket.com

tel. (+385-31) 30 22 43 Mađarska i hrvatska kuhinja ponajbolje se prožimaju baš u Slavoniji. Ovo je idealno mjesto za kušanje pravih mađarskih specijaliteta. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 22:00, petkom i subotom 08:00 – 22:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. 15. srpanj – 15. kolovoz zatvoreno. PIzzA As E-2, Radićeva 16, tel. (+385-31) 21 25 00 Velik izbor jela: pizze, rižota, tjestenine, lasagne, jela s roštilja... Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 23:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. sTROssMAyER C-2, Josipa Jurja Srossmayera 133, tel. (+385-31) 37 58 88, bkocsis@net.hr, www.omnia-osijek.hr Sendviči, pizze, jela s roštilja, tjestenine, riblja jela. Kušanja je dakako vrijedna i nezaobilazna „Plata Strossmayer“. Radno vrijeme: 10:00 – 22:00, nedjeljom 11:00 – 22:00. REsTORANI u OsJEČkOJ OkOlICI BARANJskA kuĆA Kolodvorska 99, Karanac, tel. (+385-31) 72 01 80, baranjska-kuca@net.hr, www.baranjska-kuca.com U srcu Baranje, u selu Karancu, smjestio se ovaj obiteljski restoran. Krajolik otvara apetit, a glad će utažiti domaća jela: domaći kulen, kobasice i slanina, čobanac i fišpaprikaš, grah gulaš, mlada teletina i janjetina... Radno vrijeme: 11:00 – 22:00, petkom i subotom 11:00 – 24:00, nedjeljom 11:00 – 17:00.
JOsIĆ Planina 194, Zmajevac, tel. (+385-31) 73 44 10, restoran.josic@gmail.com, www.josic.hr

PETAR PAN E-2, Ribarska 1, tel. (+385-31) 28 36 26

Resi duga tradicija. Slastičarnica se nalazi u strogom centru i poznata je po bogatoj ponudi slastica spravljenih od kvalitetnih sastojaka. Radno vrijeme: 07:30 – 23:00, nedjeljom 10:00 – 23:00.
PROMENADA E-2, Šamačka 4, tel. (+385-31) 23 03 55, www.hotelosijek.hr

Nalazi se u sklopu Hotela Osijek. Slastica je napretek, a pogled je na – Promenadu. Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 23:00, petkom, subotom i nedjeljom 07:00 – 24:00.

TRADICIONAlNI REsTORANI Reisnerova 12a, tel. (+385-31) 21 30 32, 091 890 89 77, info@restoranalasosijek.com, www. restoranalasosijek.com Restoran s autohtonim hrvatskim jelima. Velik izbor mesnih, ribljih i tradicionalnih recepata te, dakako, poveća lista slastica. Radno vrijeme: 11:00 – 23:00, nedjeljom 11:00 – 16:00. GRADskI PODRuM E-2, Županijska 8 (Hotel Waldinger), tel. (+385-31) 25 04 50, www.waldinger.hr Domaći specijaliteti, lokalni geografski, a globalni kvalitetom – razne čorbe, domaći kruh, pogača s čvarcima... Rujan – lipanj radno vrijeme: 11:00 – 23:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. kOD RužE F-2, Kuhačeva 25a, Tvrđa, tel. (+385-31) 20 60 66, www.omnia-osijek.hr Kod Ruže se jede slavonski! Jede se slavonski doručak, bogata je ponuda predjela, kuhanih jela, razno-raznih salata, jela s roštilja, jela od divljači i ribe, slastica. Ambijent domaći. Lokacija – osječka Tvrđa. Radno vrijeme: 10:00 – 23:00, nedjeljom 10:00 – 16:00. kOMPA D-1, Splavarska 1, tel. (+385-31) 37 57 55, 091 501 15 96, www.restorankompa.hr Kad je „Kompa“ i ulica Splavarska, logično je da je blizu Drava! U jelu se uživa uz desnu obalu Drave, ljeti na terasi. Zašto ne biste kušali kuhanu dimljenu svinjsku koljenicu s kuhanim slanim krumpirom, palentom, dinstanim kiselim kupusom, zapečenim grahom ili hrenom. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 22:00.
AlAs F-3,

Uz birana vina vinarije Josić u ponudi su specijaliteti od riječne ribe, ali i jela od mesa i divljači. Gosti

Internacionalni restorani
luMIERE E-2, Šetalište kardinala Franje Šepera 8, tel. (+385-31) 20 10 88, lumiere@ os.t-com.hr

Ako tražite moderan ambijent, onda je to ovaj u sklopu zgrade bivšeg kina Urania. U ponudi su tjestenine, mesna jela i razni deserti. Radno vrijeme: 12:00 – 23:00. 11 January - February 2009

??city??.inyourpocket.com

gastronomija

Slastičarnice

MAĐARskA RETFAlA C-1,

Šandora Petefija 22,

gastronomija

Kineski restoran
HONG kONG H-2, J.J.Strossmayera 41, tel. (+385-31) 77 82 36, (+385-) 091 115 00 08.

Tko se zasiti slavonskih specijaliteta lako može, u tren i na tren, otputovati daleko. Pirjani rezanci s piletinom ili pečena patka?! Zašto ne! Radno vrijeme: 11:30 – 22:30.

Restoran Kormoran – Ognjište

su aktivni tijekom pripreme jer sve se spravlja pred njihovim očima! Radno vrijeme: 13:00 – 22:00, petkom i subotom 12:00 – 23:00, nedjeljom 12:00 – 22:00. Ponedjeljkom zatvoreno.
kORMORAN Podunavlje bb, Bilje, tel. (+385-31) 75 30 99, 091 175 30 99

MATRIx F-2,

Kuhačeva 15, matrix-nightclub.com

Moderan klub u središtu Tvrđe. Unutrašnji prostor karakteriziraju lučni svodovi stare zgrade, modernizirani led-rasvjetom i drugim svjetlosnim efektima. Klub je poznat i po živoj svirci osječkih i slavonskih glazbenika. Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 24:00, četvrtkom i subotom 07:00 – 04:00, petkom 07:00 – 02:00.
MEDIuM MusIC & DANCE HAll E-3, Jadranska 8, tel. (+385-31) 49 76 76, 091 192 41 47, info@medium-mdh.hr, www.medium-mdh.hr

Baranjski specijaliteti glavni su adut ovog restorana smještenog u parku prirode Kopački rit. Na jelovniku je fišpaprikaš s domaćim rezancima, specijaliteti od divljači i šaran u stotinu varijanti. Roditelje će zasigurno razveseliti velik park za igru njihove djece. Radno vrijeme: 11:00 – 22:00. NOĆNI žIVOT
kluBOVI BAsTION F-2, Trg Vatroslava Lisinskog bb, nightclub.bastion@gmail.com

Kome je do pravog plesnjaka, uložit će truda, pa makar uz pomoć domaćeg stanovništva naći ovaj klub. Zabava je, kažu, zajamčena, uz žive svirke i koncerte. Radno vrijeme: četvrtkom, petkom i subotom 21:00 – 04:00.
PuBOVI sWAN E-2,

noćni život

Kapucinska 40

Bastion je smješten unutar starih zidina, ali ga odlikuje modernost. Glavni i alternativni floor, te dvije galerije na balkonu prvog kata pružaju osjećaj prostranosti. Tu je i ljetna terasa s pogledom na Dravu i promenadu. Radno vrijeme: četvrtkom, petkom i subotom 22:00 – 06 :00. Desna obala Drave, tel. (+385-) 095 919 11 05, www.cocktailbarka.com Jeste li ikad plesali na brodu!? Brod usidren na desnoj obali Drave između pješačkoga i cestovnog mosta, sa dva floora. Pa dok na gornjem ordinira DJ, na donjem svira ex Yu rock-, glazba nastala na ovim prostorima prije dvadeset i više godina. Radno vrijeme: četvrtkom, petkom i subotom 21:00 – 05:00. Travanj – 31.listopad radno vrijeme: četvrtkom, petkom i subotom 20:00 – 05:00.
COCkTAIl BARkA F-2,

Pravi pub u centru Osijeka. Dobra glazba, dobar ambijent, zajamčen dobar provod. Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 24:00.
sT. PATRICk’s PuB F-2,

Kuhačeva 15, tel. (+385-31)

20 52 02 Prvi osječki irski pub. Smješten je u baroknoj jezgri gradske Tvrđe. Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 24:00, četvrtkom i petkom 07:00 – 01:00, subotom 08:00 – 02:00, nedjeljom 09:30 – 24:00.
OlD BRIDGE PuB F-2, Kuhačeva 4, tel. (+385-31) 21 16 11, info@oldbridgepub.hr

Još jedan pub u Tvrđi. Osim dobrog ambijenta i velikog izbora pića, ovdje možete štogod i prezalogajiti. Radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 01:00, četvrtkom i petkom 08:00 – 03:00, subotom 10:00 – 03:00, nedjeljom 10:00 – 01:00. ??city??.inyourpocket.com

12 ??City?? In Your Pocket

Marin Topić (autor fotografije)

BICIklIzAM Osijek je grad koji biciklisti moraju voljeti zbog njegovih širokih ulica i pločnika, parkova i zelenih površina, staza uz Dravu i zbog činjenice da u nizinskom kraju nema uzbrdica i planina. Teren je idealan za obilazak biciklom. Međunarodna trasa Dunavska biciklistička ruta, Dravska ruta i Panonski put mira s Bike&Bed lokacijama, pružit će zadovoljstvo svakom ljubitelju biciklizma. Biljske satnije ZNG RH 5, Bilje, tel. (+38531) 75 02 64, 091 551 57 11, info@biljeplus.hr, www. biljeplus.hr. Radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 20:00. Cijena 10 eura po danu.
CETRATOuR - E-2, Gundulićeva 61a, tel. (+385-31) 37 29 20, info@cetratour.hr, www.cetratour.hr. Radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 16:00, subotom i nedjeljom zatvoreno. Cijena 7 eura po danu, 1,5 euro po satu. BIlJE Plus,

višta povezana u Lovački savez Osječko-baranjske županije, koji više infomacija o uvjetima lova nudi na internetskoj stranici www.lovacki-savez-osijek.hr.
lOVAČkI sAVEz OsJEČkO-BARANJskE žuPANIJE, D-2, J.Jurja Strossmayera 65a, tel. (+385-31) 36 95 92, www.lovacki-savez-osijek.hr. Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 15:00. Subotom i nedjeljom zatvoreno.

PlIVANJE Panonskog mora više nema, ali kupanja za ljetnih mjeseci itekako ima. Na Dravi je besplatno kupanje na gradskoj plaži Kopiki, a u otvorenim bazenima s toboganima pokraj same plaže plaća se simbolična cijena (F-1, Tvrđavica, radno vrijeme: 10:00 – 19:00). Zimi je kupanje zajamčeno na Gradskim bazenima.
GRADskI BAzENI, F-3, Martina Divalta 6a, tel. (+38531) 57 00 66, www.sportski-objekti.hr. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 22:00. Cijena ulaznice 15–20kn.

EkOTuRIzAM Zlatna Greda 16, Lug tel. (+385-31) 56 51 80, info@zlatna-greda.org, www.zlatna-greda.org Fotosafari, vožnje kanuima riječnim područjem i parkom prirode Kopački rit, uživanje u netaknutoj prirodi. Aktivnosti se organiziraju za grupe od najmanje četiri osobe. Radno vrijeme: prva srijeda u mjesecu 09:00 – 10:00. lOV U okolici Osijeka postoje velike mogućnosti za lov. Tradicija lova je velika, a velik je i raspon divljači za ulov, od jelena i kuna do veprova, srna, zečeva.... Sva su lo??city??.inyourpocket.com
EkO CENTAR zlATNA GREDA,

RIBOlOV Ribolov je jedna od omiljenih zanimacija Osječana i njihovih gostiju. Pecati za slobodnog vremena može se na Dravi, pa i u zaštićenom parku prirode Kopačkom ritu ako ste za to ishodovali valjanu dozvolu. Upecajte svoj ručak, šarana, smuđa, štuku, soma, ali pri tom vodite računa o propisima i zakonima. Koji su to propisi, otkriva internetska stranica www. ribolov-osijek.hr.
zAJEDNICA šRD OsIJEk, H/I-2, Donjodravska obala 8, tel. (+385-31) 50 44 55, zsrd-osijeks.t-com.hr, www. ribolov-osijek.hr. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 12:00.

13 January - February 2009

sport i rekreacija

kupovina

ANTIkVITETI I suVENIRI Vinogradska 128, tel. (+385-31) 58 68 08, 091 930 87 99, milka@antikviteti-kulic.com, www.antikviteti-kulic.com Antikni namještaj, stare slike, knjige, predmeti od stakla i porculana, sve na etnoimanju Kulić. Kanite li ga posjetiti, prethodno se valja najaviti. BAlABAN I sIN E-2, Prolaz Vanje Radauša bb, tel. (+385-) 099 316 93 88, balaban.antikvarijat@gmail.com Unikatno posuđe, slike ili drugi umjetnički predmeti. Radno vrijeme: 10:00 – 13:00, 16:00 – 19:00, subotom 09:00 – 13:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. BlAžEkOVIĆ, MEDIČAR I VOskAR H/I/J-3, Reisnerova 131, tel. (+385-31) 37 25 46, 091 628 75 36, ranogajec.josip@gmail.com Zašto ne otići iz Osijeka s licitarskim srcem u džepu!? Originalni licitarski i svjećarski proizvodi. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 18:00, subotom 09:00 – 14:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. EzOP E-2, Županijska 19, tel. (+385-31) 20 24 44, ezop@ezop-antikvarijat.hr, www.ezop-antikvarijat.hr Idealno mjesto ako tragate za starim knjigama, udžbenicima, gramofonskim pločama, CD-ovima, razglednicama... Radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 20:00, subotom 08:00 – 13:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. lEGA-lEGA E-2, Županijska 25, tel. (+385-31) 49 41 04, info@lega-lega.com, www.lega-lega.com Sto posto hrvatsko! Majice, bilježnice, rokovnici, blokovi, bedževi, podmetači, posteri, proizvodi u potpunosti osmišljeni, dizajnirani i proizvedeni u Hrvatskoj. Radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 18:00, subotom 08:00 – 12:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. NONO E-2, Trg slobode 8, tel. (+385-31) 78 00 13, www.nono-shop.com Domaće delicije na jednom mjestu: maslinovo ulje, vrhunski likeri i voćne rakije, ekološki džemovi, medovi, začini, proizvodi od lavande, prirodna kozmetika, ručno rađene drvene kutije... Radno vrijeme: 10:00 – 19:30, subotom 09:00 – 12:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. PODRuMI ČOČIĆ - sAlON POklONA A/B-3, Ivana Gundulića 9, tel. (+385-31) 20 05 69, djurococic@gmail.com, www.cocic.hr Vrhunska domaća pića i delicije. Mirisne rakije i likeri, domaći džemovi, kompoti, suho voće u medu, sve rađeno po starinskoj recepturi. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 20:00, subotom 09:00 – 13:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno.
ANTIkVITETI kulIĆ PREDGRAĐE,

RukOTVORINE A-1/2, Županijska 15, tel. (+385-31) 21 22 17. Autohtoni slavonski suveniri: stolnjaci, zavjese, posteljina s tradicionalnim slavonskim motivima, lutke u tradicionalnoj nošnji... Radno vrijeme: 08:30 – 12:30, 16:00 – 19:00, subotom 08:30–14:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. škRINJICA A-2, Trg A. Starčevića bb, tel. (+385-31) 20 49 66. Široka ponuda domaćih rakija, šokačih šešira sa zlatovezom, drvenih kutija... Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 19:00, subotom 09:00 – 13:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno.

TRGOVAČkI CENTRI Sv. Leopolda Mandića 50a, tel. (+385-31) 63 86 40, office@avenuemallosijek.hr, www.avenuemallosijek.hr. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 21:00. EssEkER CENTAR A-1, Ribarska 4, tel. (+385-31) 63 60 00. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 21:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. PORTANOVA B-3, Svilajska 31a, tel. (+385-31) 32 12 15, portanova@portanova.hr, www.portanova.hr. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 21:00.
AVENuE MAll D-3,

sEOskI TuRIzAM Stres, buka, nervoza, sve to i još malo više, donosi grad. Na selu je, kažu, drugačije. Na selu se spava dulje, živi mirnije, njeguju se prijateljski, dobrosusjedski odnosi i neke gotovo zaboravljene životne vrijednosti. Na selu ima vremena za obitelj koja živi u zajedništvu. Ako se sa sela nekada bježalo, sada je došlo vrijeme da mu se polako vraćamo, pa makar to za početak bilo samo dugim vikendima. A sve što treba jest spakirati kovčege, sjesti u neko prijevozno sredstvo pa pobjeći u mir i tišinu, tamo gdje se dobro jede i pije, diše čist zrak i jednostavno živi kvalitetnije! BARANJskI DVORI Šandora Petefija 61, Zmajevac, tel. (+385-31) 73 40 55, 091 200 58 85, 091 210 08 85, baranjski.dvori@gmail.com, www.baranjski-dvori.hr Domaći specijaliteti, udobne i dobro opremljene sobe te predsjednički apartman, mogućnost izleta u Kopački rit. No, ono što dvore čini posebnima jest čitaonica sa 300-njak naslova! IVICA I MARICA Ive Lole Ribara 8a, Karanac, tel. (+385-) 091 137 37 93, 098 25 26 74, ivicaimarica@ivica-marica.com, www.ivica-marica.com Uredne i prostrane sobe, kuća opremljena ručno izrađenim hrastovim namještajem, ukusna hrana, obilje aktivnosti u ponudi... I seoski život i moderno! sEOskA kuĆA „kukuRIku“ Kolodvorska 18, Karanac, tel. (+385-) 098 25 21 79, kukuriku-karanac@net.hr Duh prošlih vremena gotovo da se može napipati u ovoj panonskoj seoskoj kući iz 1897. godine. Raspolaže s tri sobe koje su uređene u rustikalnom stilu s mnoštvom starih, očuvanih predmeta. ??city??.inyourpocket.com

osječka okolica

14 ??City?? In Your Pocket

Marin Topić (autor fotografije) sklEPIĆ Kolodvorska 58, Karanac, tel. (+385-31) 72 02 71, 098 73 91 59, denis.sklepic@inet.hr, www.sklepic.hr Smješten u etnoselu Karanac, nedaleko Parka prirode Kopački rit. Obiteljski ugođaj i dobra hrana, te mogućnost šetnje vinskim cestama znanih baranjskih vinograda. PARk PRIRODE kOPAČkI RIT Titov dvorac 1, Lug, tel. (+385-31) 75 23 20, prijemni. centar@kopacki-rit.hr, www.kopacki-rit.hr Samo deset kilometara sjeveroistočno od Osijeka nalazi se Park prirode Kopački rit, netaknuta oaza od koje zastaje dah. Kopački rit jedan je od najvažnijih, najvećih i najatraktivnijih očuvanih izvornih močvarnih prostora Europe, a parkom prirode proglašen je 1976. godine. Zbog izuzetnih prirodnih ljepota, bogata biljnog i životinjskog svijeta Kopački rit osim izletnika i turista privlači stručnjake i znanstvenike iz cijele Europe. Zbog velike biološke raznolikosti Park prirode Kopački rit je od 1993. godine uvršten u Popis močvarnih i vlažnih područja od međunarodnog značaja. Tu se gnijezdi oko 260 vrsta različitih ptica (divlja guska, divlja patka, velika bijela čaplja, bijela roda, crna roda i dr.), a još mnoge vrste tu privremeno borave na putu od sjevernih, hladnijih, krajeva prema južnim, toplijim krajevima i obratno. U vodi ima 40-ak vrsta riba (štuka, jaz, linjak, deverika, šaran i dr.), a na suhom dijelu više različitih vrsta sisavaca (obični jelen, srna, divlja svinja, divlja mačka, kuna zlatica i dr.). Dio Kopačkog rita dostupan je za lov i ribolov. A tu se i vrhunski jede! Glavni specijaliteti Kopačkog rita su: fišpaprikaš, šaran na rašljama, jela od divljači. Može ih se kušati u obližnjem restoranu Kormoran, Podunavlje bb, Bilje, tel. (+385-31) 753099, turizam@belje.hr, www.belje.hr. Glavni ulaz u rezervat za posjetitelje nalazi se sjeverno od sela Kopačevo. Tu je prijemni centar i tu se kupuju ulaznice. Ako dolazite automobilom, krenite sjeverno od Osijeka, prema Bilju, onda na glavnom raskrižju skrenite desno i slije-

dite tablu za Park prirode Kopački rit. Oni koji nisu mobilizirani, mogu uloviti autobus Osijek–Bilje, koji vozi svakih 30–50 minuta s Vukovarske ceste, a zatim preostala 4 km do prijemnog centra treba propješačiti. Radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 17:00. Svibanj–rujan radno vrijeme: 09:00 – 20:00. Cijena ulaznice 10 kn. Cijena ulaznice s uključenim stručnim vodstvom 50 – 70 kn po osobi. Cijena ulaznice s uključenim vodstvom za grupu više od 25 osoba 50 – 65 kn po osobi. DRžAVNA ERGElA ĐAkOVO Augusta Šenoe 45, Đakovo, tel. (+385-31) 81 32 86, lipicanac@ergela-djakovo.hr, www.ergela-djakovo.hr Bila bi prava šteta biti u Osijeku, a ne naći vremena za posjet Đakovu i Državnoj ergeli lipicanaca Đakovo. Ta Ergela stoljećima čuva tradiciju uzgoja konja i od neprocjenjive je vrijednosti i značaja za cijelu zemlju. Uz druženje s lipicanerima i razgledavanje muških grla u stajama, upoznat ćete povijest i tradiciju uzgoja plemenite lipicanske pasmine. Razgledati možete terene za dresuru i obuku konja, matično stado, kobile i podmladak do 3 godine starosti, a možda ugledate i ždrebad staru tek nekoliko dana. Jeste li znali da su lipicanci tamni prilikom ždrijebljenja, zatim svake godine postaju sve svjetliji i svjetliji, dok u potpunosti ne postanu potpuno bijeli!? Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 17:00, a subotom i nedjeljom po dogovoru. Cijena 10 – 20kn za individulane posjete, razgled uključuje dvije lokacije Ergele Đakovo (Pastuharnu i Ivandvor) bez pratnje vodiča. Ove posjete nije potrebno najavljivati unaprijed. Za organizirane turističke posjete (grupe) obilazak je uz pratnju turističkog vodiča po cijeni od 20 – 30 kn, uz obveznu prethodnu najavu i rezervaciju termina. 15 January - February 2009

??city??.inyourpocket.com

osječka okolica

osječka okolica

DVORCI slAVONIJE I BARANJE
DVORAC MAIláTH, DONJI MIHOlJAC.

U blizini Donjeg Miholjca smjestio se jedan od najočuvanijih dvoraca u Hrvatskoj, Dvorac Mailáth. Građen je od 1905. do 1914. za mađarsku obitelj Mailáth, a uz prije izgrađeni prizemni barokni dvorac čini jedinstvenu cjelinu. Dvorac je djelo arhitekta Istvána Möllera i ističe se bogatim ukrasima u neogotičkom stilu, s elementima stila Tudor. U njemu je danas sjedište donjomiholjačke gradske uprave. DVORAC PEJAČEVIĆ, Trg dr. Franje Tuđmana 5, Našice, tel. (+385-31) 61 34 14, www.zmn.hr Pedesetak kilometara sjeverozapadno od Osijeka smjestile su se Našice, gradić prekrasna krajolika u kojem se posebice ističe Dvorac Pejačević. Smješten je u današnjem gradskom parku, zajedno s manjim dvorcem i gospodarskim objektima te recentno izgrađenim stambenim zgradama i hotelom. Ime nosi po znamenitoj plemićkoj obitelji Pejačević. U njemu je živjela prva hrvatska skladateljica Dora Pejačević, kći hrvatskog bana Teodora Pejačevića, o kojoj je snimljen i igrani film “Kontesa Dora”. Danas se tu nalazi Zavičajni muzej i galerija, a unutar stalnog postava Muzeja možete razgledati spomen-sobu Hinka Juhna, Isidora Kršnjavoga, Dore Pejačević, našički kraj u povijesti, etnološku zbirku, lončarstvo Feričanaca i lovačku sobu. Radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 18:00, ponedjeljkom, petkom 08:00 – 15:00, subotom 09:00 – 12:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. Srpanj – kolovoz radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 14:00, subotom 09:00 – 12:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno. Cijena ulaznice 10 – 15kn.
DVORAC PRANDAu-NORMANN, VAlPOVO

Vinske ceste

Osječko-baranjska županija poznata je po vrhunskom vinu, Baranja pogotovo. Uostalom, boranya na mađarskom znači “vinska majka”. Dobar način upoznavanja s nekim od najboljih hrvatskih vina je izlet duž vinske ceste Osječko-baranjske županije, koja obuhvaća Đakovo, Erdut, Feričance i Baranju. Tko to učini, poželjet će doći opet.
u ĐAkOVAČkOM kRAJu POsJETITE:

Ulica Josipa Jurja Strossmayera 24, Trnava, tel. (+385-) 099 319 55 01, misna.vina@djos.hr, www.misna-vina.com Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 15:00 i po dogovoru. ĐAkOVAČkA VINA, Mandićevac bb, Drenje, tel. (+385-31) 83 72 00, djakovacka-vina@os.t-com. hr, www.djakovacka-vina.hr Radno vrijeme: 07:00 – 15:00, subotom i nedjeljom zatvoreno.
u FERIČANCIMA:

VINskE PODRuME MIsNIH VINA,

Feričeva 16, Feričanci, tel: (+385-31) 60 32 13, www.feravino.hr Radno vrijeme: 07:00–15:00, subotom 07:00 – 14:00. Nedjeljom zatvoreno.
u ERDuTu:

FERAVINO,

Trg Branka Hercega 1, Erdut, tel. (+385-31) 59 65 55, www.erdutski-vinogradi.hr Radno vrijeme: 07:30 – 15:30, subotom i nedjeljom zatvoreno
u BARANJI:

IPk ERDuTskE VINOGRADE,

Sjeveroistočno od Našica put vodi do gradića Valpova, koji krasi Dvorac Prandau-Normann, srednjovjekovno–barokni graditeljski kompleks, jedan od najstarijih i najvećih dvoraca u Slavoniji. Kompleks dvorca sastoji se od srednjovjekovne kule, bočnih baroknih krila naslonjenih na srednjovjekovne vanjske bedeme, dvorske kapele, unutrašnjeg dvorišta i kasnobarokno–klasicističke pročelne palače. Uz dovorac su vezane brojne legende, pa tako i ona o valpovačkoj Bijeloj gospi. Ispričat će vam je za posjeta dvorcu, nakon čega vam ostaje još samo posjetiti Muzej Valpoštine (tel. +385-31 65 06 39, www.muzej-valpovo.hr) Radno vrijeme: 08:00 – 15:00, ponedjeljkom i četvrtkom 15:00 – 19:00. Subotom i nedjeljom zatvoreno. Lipanj – 15. rujan radno vrijeme: 10:00 – 12:00, ponedjeljkom i četvrtkom 16:00 – 20:00, subotom 10:00 – 13:00, nedjeljom po dogovoru. Cijena ulaznice 8 – 12kn. 16 ??City?? In Your Pocket

Šandora Petefija 2, Kneževi Vinogradi, tel.(+385-31) 73 09 22, 73 09 02, www.belje.hr Radno vrijeme: 10:00 – 18:00. Za razgled vinograda i vinskog podruma potrebno je unaprijed nazvati. ČOČIĆ VINskI PODRuM, Ružina 20, Zmajevac, tel. (+385-) 091 110 49 42, www.cocic.hr Radno vrijeme po dogovoru. GERšTMAJER VINskI PODRuM, Šandora Petefija 31, Zmajevac, tel.(+385-) 091 351 55 86, vinagerstmajer@gmail.com Radno vrijeme po dogovoru. JOsIĆ VINskI PODRuM, Planina 194, Zmajevac, tel. (+385-) 098 25 26 57, vinarija_josic@net.hr, www.josic.hr Radno vrijeme: 12:00 – 22:00, ponedjeljkom zatvoreno. kOlAR VINskI PODRuM, Maršala Tita Suza, tel. (+385-31) 73 30 81, 091 521 86 23, www.podrumi-kolar.com Radno vrijeme po dogovoru. ??city??.inyourpocket.com

BElJE VINskE PODRuME,

wHAt to see
F-2, Trg Svetog Trojstva. Standing at the centre of Tvrđa's Austrianate main square is the so-called Plague Column (Zavjetni stup), a curious Baroque pillar topped by a swarm of cherubic angels borne on billowing clouds. It was erected in 1729 by the widow of Habsburg General Petraschi to give thanks for the garrison's deliverance from an outbreak of plague. (It obviously didn't do much good: plague returned to the city at regular intervals throughout the 1740s). The cloak-shrouded statues at the base, added in 1784, depict saints Sebastian, Rocco, Rosalia and Catherine. The bridge of youth (Most Mladosti) E-2. This pedestrian hanging bridge (Viseći most) over the Drava river was built in 1979. Well designed and modern in stature, it has become one of the symbols of Osijek. You'll find it in most postcards and photos that reflect this lovely town. It's worth the look. The Red Fićo F-3. “The Red Fićo” Art Installation - the image of the JNA (Jugoslav National Army) tank crushing a small red fićo car had travelled around the world and became one of the most recognisable symbols of the Homeland War. Exactly 20 years later, and in celebration of the Day devoted to defenders of the city of Osijek, an installation in the memory of that fićo was revealed. It is located at the crossroad of Vukovarska Street and Trpimirova Street and it symbolically portrays Croatia's victory over the JNA. How, one may ask? Well ironically, in this instance, it is the fićo which is crushing the JNA tank carrying the date June 27 1991 on its plates. A date which became a part of history. The Walker (Šetač) E-2, Trg slobode. One of Osijek's most popular landmarks is definitely ‘The Walker', a statue of the Croatian writer August Cesarec captured walking in motion. The name of the artist who made it was Stjepan Gračan and the statue is located behind the Monument to the Defenders at Trg Slobode ( Liberation Square). As an added novelty and thanks to some great foresight by Tomislav Levak, the Walker has now been put on traffic lights in the city centre (one day it will be on all traffic lights throughout the town) and has replaced the standard every day image that we see in all other Croatian cities, thus making Osijek unique.

19

Plague column (Zavjetni stup Svetog Trojstva)

City tours
Tourist Tram (Turistički tramvaj) Visitors can catch
a glimpse of the current Osijek in an old-fashioned mode of transport, namely the electric tram that made its first trips through the city way back in 1926. It only drives if booked, can be rented by both individuals and groups and can take up to 30 - 40 people, the renting price is 1000kn + VAT for a one hour ride.

Permanent exhibition of Water Life F-2, Svodovi

bb, Tvrđa (At the Vodena vrata), tel. (+385-31) 32 29 07/(+385-) 091 506 46 68, udrugagloriamaris@gmail. com, www.gloria-maris.hr. The Gloria Maris Association will entice you to ponder about not only the underworld but the universe. The visuals are splendid but the informed guides will truly educate you about questions you'd never considered before. Learn how pearls are made, how sea shells hum and much more. At the exhibition you can see the fossil remains of the Pannonia Sea, ancient mussels of the Drava and Dunav River, Kopački rit, the Adriatic Sea and other world seas and oceans. Put 2 hours aside and if you pre-book, English guides are available. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Parks
P.Krešimira IV) F-2. Roughly opposite the main entrance to the Tvrđa district, this neatly manicured stretch of greenery is home to one of Osijek's best loved monuments. Illuminated by spotlights at night, the life-size Dying Soldier by sculptor Robert Frangeš-Mihanović (1872 - 1940) valiantly brandishes a rifle as his feet buckle beneath him. Intended to commemorate the dead of World War I, it now serves as a memorial to all those who have laid down their lives for the motherland.
F-2. Laid out in the eighteenth century to provide a pleasant strolling area for Habsburg officers and their ladies, this large expanse of meadow and deciduous trees fills the gap between the Tvrđa and Gornji Grad districts. Popular with pram-pushing parents and a wide variety of human-canine partnerships. Zoological garden (Zoološki vrt) D-1, Sjevernodravska obala 1, tel. (+385-31) 28 52 34, www.zoo-osijek.hr. The emblem of Osijek zoo is a running cheetah and you will indeed find a pair of these lean spotty cats lurking somewhere in the middle of this riverside complex - although given the size of their cage they're unlikely to be doing much running. Elsewhere zebras, raccoons, emus and other animals await inspection, and there's an aquarium section full of scary reptiles. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00. From May - October Open 09:00 -19:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.

King Petar Kr ešimir IV Park (Park kralja

King Tomislav Gardens (Perivoj kralja Tomislava)

Museums
32. Osijek has been settled since the Stone Age, when waves of various Central European tribes ebbed and flowed across the plains. Celts, Romans, Croats, Avars, Goths, Hungarians, Austrians, Germans, Slovaks and Serbs have left their traces in the area. In 2007, artifacts from around the region found a new home, diagonally across the Holy Trinity Square from the Museum of Slavonija, in the renovated City Guardhouse and an adjacent house. The Archeological Museum Osijek opened in the fall with a small exhibit in the first three rooms and a display of larger Roman stone artifacts under a glass dome in a lovely arcaded courtyard. Especially interesting is a Celtic helmet that was probably tossed into the Sava during the 1st Century B.C. near Slavonski Brod and recovered during a period when the water level was low. Renovations were completed in March of 2009 and the permanent exhibition, which covers the period from the 5th to the 16th century in now open. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thursday 09:00 - 20:00 (May 1 - October 30 09:00 - 22:00), Sat 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. Guided tours 10 - 13kn per person.

Archeological Museum of Osijek (Arheološki muzej) F-2, Trg Svetog Trojstva 2, tel. (+385-31) 23 21

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Osijek Zoo Garden

osijek.inyourpocket.com

2013

20

MAil & PHones
Mobile Phones
The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. T-Centar E-2, Alojzija Stepinca 8b, tel. (+385-) 0800 90 00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Tele 2 Centar E-2, Hrvatske Republike 7, tel. (+385-31) 20 56 55, www.tele2.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Vip Centar E-2, Stjepana Radića 40, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00, www.vip.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

getting Around
Public transport
Osijek offers you two possibilities to get around town: buses and trams. They both operate from 05:00 till 23:00 or midnight, except the tram line that connects Višnjevac and Zeleno Polje on Saturday nights, on which you can catch a night ride every half hour. Two options are available for purchasing tickets. One is paper ticket that can be bought from a driver at a cost of 10 kn, the ticket is valid for 45 minutes from the moment it is stamped. The second option is the so called electronic ticket butra, it can also be bought from a driver or at any Tisak news stand, as well as at the GPP shops on Cara Hadrijana Street 1, and at the Ante Starčević Square (underground). When you buy it for the first time it will cost 40kn and has 20kn worth of credit. Whilst entering and leaving the vehicle, you need to scan it at a machine and during a 40 minute ride on a tram or bus it will take 8kn off the account. Once you have used all the credits, you can recharge it with a driver or at a news stand. Those caught without a ticket or not having scanned a ticket will be charged 250kn. GPP Osijek, Cara Hadrijana 1, tel. (+385-31) 22 83 00 / 22 83 33 www. gpp-osijek.com, Traffic info tel. (+385-31) 20 60 32. Buses The biggest bus stop for local transport is at the Gajev trg, where you can catch a ride to all destinations in town. Trams Osijek beat its larger European counterparts Budapest and Vienna to the punch in developing a tram service, a fact that many Osijek locals will be proud to let you know should you mention their tram service. There are two tram lines: one connecting Višnjevac and Zeleno Polje, and the other one Trg Ante Starčevića and Bikara. The trams are quite modern and, if you happen to be an Osijek local that knows the names of the stops, a friendly mechanical voice will cheerfully announce the name of your stop. If you’re a tourist, you might be a bit peeved to learn that the names of the stops are not marked on the sign at most stops.

City express mail
CityEx D/E-4, Vinkovačka 1a, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 33, osijek@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N OverseasExpress F-5, Ulica hrastova 1, tel. (+38531) 29 77 22, osijek@overseas.hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N

Express mail
DHL E-2, Republike Hrvatske 39, tel. (+385-31) 20 26 60, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A In Time/ TNT Južna obilaznica bb, tel. (+385-31) 20 59 79, osijek@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen 08:00
- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Taxis
to 5km costs 20kn and each kilometer thereafter costs 7kn, waiting is 20kn/h. Taxi Cammeo , tel. (+385-31) 12 12, www.taxicammeo.com. A 5 kilometre ride costs 20kn, whilst every following kilometre is a charge of 5kn. Night rides are not charged extra and a wait longer than 5 minutes is charged 1kn per minute. VIP Taxi, tel. (+385-) 099 800 80 08. A 5km ride costs 25kn, each kilometre thereafter costs 7kn and a wait longer than 10 minutes is charged 1kn per minute.

Internet places
Digital Design E-3, Reisnerova 38, tel. (+38531) 21 41 66, w w w.digitaldesign.hr. Q O(+385-31) 28 30 56, icm@promi.hr, w w w.icmosijek.info. Q Open 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Logg - Inn E-3, Kardinala Alojzija Stepinca 38b, tel. (+38531) 21 45 58/(+385-) 098 971 49 40. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. 5 - 10kn/hour. Press Internet Cafe E-2, Lorenza Jägera 24, tel. (+38531) 21 23 13. You can search and email wildly for 15kn/ hour. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PBXW

Student Taxi, tel. (+385-31) 20 01 00. A taxi ride of up

Inf o centar za mlade E-2, Ribar ska 1, tel.

pen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 15:00 - 21:00. 4 - 8kn/1h.

Trains
Central Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) E-3, Trg Lavoslava Ružičke 2, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www. hznet.hr. The Croatia railway network has regular trains from Osijek to Zagreb six times per day and one to Rijeka. From Zagreb, there are connections to Slovenia, Austria, Germany and Switzerland. The trip to Zagreb takes a mere three hours if you’re travelling with the new and refreshingly modern tilting trains, but up to five hours if you don’t have that luxury. Other international destinations served from Osijek are Sarajevo and Budapest. Ticket office for domestic lines is Open 04:50 - 21:40 and international is Open 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Post
Main Post Office E-2, Kardinala Alojzija Stepinca 17, tel. (+385-31) 25 36 00. Other off ices: Ljudevita Posavskog bb, tel. (+385-31) 23 28 08. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Martina Divalta 132, tel. (+385-31) 23 28 68. Open 08:00 - 14:30, Tue 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Županijska 8, tel. (+385-31) 20 03 55. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 08:00 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Buses
Central Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) E-3, Bartula Kašića 70, tel. (+385-) 060 35 33 53, turist. os@app.hr, www.app.hr. Osijek is well-connected with regular routes running to most Croatian cities and also has daily services to Bosnia, Serbia and Germany. osijek.inyourpocket.com

Postal rates
Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3,10kn , Abroad 7,10kn Postcards (standard) Croatia 1,60 kn , Abroad 3,10 kn

Osijek In Your Pocket

getting Around
To see if there are services to your destination, check out the domestic and international schedule just inside the station or visit their web site that has all necessary info in English. It is also important to note that if you’re buying a return ticket, you must make both the outgoing and return trip with the same operator, so make sure there’s a return trip at the time you would like to head back to Osijek. The bus station can be reached by taking tram number 2 from the main square. The ticket office inside the station hall is open 05:00 - 21:00.

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Parking
Elektromodul D-2, Andrije Hebranga 7, tel. (+385-31)
35 84 11, elektromodul@elektromodul.hr, www.elektromodul.hr. As with most city centers in Croatia, Osijek’s traffic problem is slightly alleviated by a pay parking system. There are 3 zones indicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1 (red), 4 kn/h, zone 2 (yellow), 3 kn/h and zone 3 (grey), 2 kn/h. You get a ticket at the box under the parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by sending a message with your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown on the box (remember to include the international dialing code if you’re using a foreign mobile). A few minutes before your hour of paid parking runs out, you’ll get a message to remind you to refresh your lease of the space or move your car. If you don’t put the ticket in the car window, or you’re late, you’ll be charged a day ticket costing 46kn in zone 3, 59kn in zone 2 and 72kn in zone 1.

Airport
Klisa Airport Vukovarska 67, Klisa, tel. (+385-31) 51
44 40/(+385-31) 51 44 41, (+385-) 060 33 93 39, opc@ osijek-airport.hr, www.osijek-airport.hr. Osijek’s airport is settled 20km away from Osijek and is by the Osijek-Vukovar regional road. It is very small and serves very few towns, both Croatian and international. The flight schedule changes according to seasons as Zagreb airport is the main international hub for the country.

Towed away
If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! If that happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot at the adress Ivana Gundulića 168, it’s open 24hours. The bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 250 - 500kn, plus a police fine up to 300 - 700kn. You’ll pay an extra 50kn for additional day car storage. Let’s face it, it could be worse! Pauk Osijek D-2, Ivana Gundulića 168, tel. (+385-31) 63 78 50.

Travel agencies
37 29 20/(+385-31) 37 29 21, info@cetratour.hr, www.cetratour.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Panturist B-2, Kapucinska 19, tel. (+385-31) 21 43 88, turizam@panturist.hr, www.panturist.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. May - September Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Zlatna greda H - 4, Opatijska 26F, tel. (+385-31) 56 51 80, info@zlatna-greda.org, www.zlatna-greda. org. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Cetratour D-3, Ivana Gundulića 61a, tel. (+385-31)

HAK-Croatian Auto Club (+385-) 1987

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Biking
After settling all the other transportation issues like bus, train and car arrangements, there is one more option you should consider: seeing the city of Osijek by renting a bike, then heading out for a longer adventure on bicycle trails that allow you to explore the area surrounding the city ‘til your heart’s content. There are a few international bike routes in the area that offer you the chance to see a load of cultural sights and meet interesting people along the way . The Pannonian Peace Route is an 80-kilometer ride from Osijek to Sombor that was sponsored by “Green Osijek”, an association for nature and environment protection (Zeleni Osijek, www.zeleni-osijek.hr, www.zlatna-greda.org). The path runs right along the Danube and takes you through the Kopački Rit and Gornje Podunavlje nature reserves. Another popular option is the Danube Route, a part of the route that goes along Danube from its source in Germany to the Black Sea. It runs through the easternmost parts of Croatia and along the borders with Serbia and Hungary and leads you through a diverse landscape right up to the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina. The guide was published by the NGO “Moj bicikl”, www.mojbicikl.hr. The same NGO also published the Drava Route, part of the Iron Curtain Trail. For sure, you have a lot to choose from and definitely some great landscapes to enjoy. Fishing Competition event in the summer of 2006. Kopački Rit, the natural gem of the surrounding area, also offers fishing opportunities. A large part of the park has been turned into a nature reserve, but there are areas that are under less strict supervision and the fish are fair game (provided you have the proper licenses and permits!). There are over 40 species of fish swimming the waters of Kopački Rit, including pike, tench, bream, carp, catfish, pike-perch and perch. Information about fishing and hunting is available at the Kopački Rit tourist office or online at www. kopacki-rit.com. H/I-2, Donjodravska obala 8, tel. (+385-31) 50 44 55, zsrd-osijek@os.t-com.hr, www.ribolov-osijek.hr. Info about licenses and permits. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.

Sport Fishing Union of Osijek-Baranja County

Hunting
Citizens of Osijek, as well as visitors to the city, have the luxury of enjoying its prime geographical location. The city reaps the benefits of close proximity to two major rivers, the Drava and the Danube. Also, one of Osijek's most important neighbors is the Kopački Rit Nature Park, a wonderland of plant and animal life that just begs to be explored by nature lovers. In fact, all of Osijek-Baranja County possesses a wealth of untouched nature that makes for per fect daytrips. Sportsmen also love the area as it offers a host of fishing and hunting opportunities, from hunting birds and angling to deer hunting. There are 83 official hunting sites maintained by several hunting associations, all of which combine to form the Hunting Union of Osijek-Baranja County. In addition to these locations, there are also 14 state-sponsored hunting areas. The county enjoys a rich hunting tradition and a wide array of game exists in the area for the able hunter. Big game like wild boar, deer and roe deer abound, along with smaller game like pheasant, quail, partridge and a wide variety of other birds. Throughout the hunting areas, there are cozy hunting lodges to which you can repair to plan your strategy or sample some local cooking before setting out again in the quest to bag some game. Need some further motivation? In 2001, a lucky hunter scored a trophy roe-buck in the Staro Petrovo Selo area. In order to start stalking your prey, you need to complete a safety course and then obtain a hunting license.

Rent a bike
Bilje Plus Biljske satnije ZNG RH 5, Bilje, tel. (+38531)75 02 64/(+385-) 091 551 57 11, info@biljeplus. hr, www.biljeplus.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. 10€ per day. Cetratour E-3, Gundulićeva 61a, tel. (+385-31) 37 29 20/(+385-) 098 25 33 69, info@cetratour.hr, www. cetratour.hr. Place for renting bikes but be sure to call first. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 7eur per day, 1,5 eur per hour.

Eco adventure

Hunting Union of Osijek-Baranja County D-2, J.Jurja Strossmayera 65a, tel. (+385-31)36 95 92, www. lovacki-savez-osijek.hr. Information about formalities. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Swimming
Zlatna greda archives (+385-) 091 210 12 12, richard@baranya-adventure.com, www.baranya-adventure.com. Q Open by prior arrangement. Zlatna greda Zlatna Greda 16, Lug, tel. (+385-31) 56 51 80, info@zlatna-greda.org, www.zlatna-greda. org. Aside from taking an active interest in environmental protection, this agency also organizes interesting and engaging activities like photosafaris, boat rides along the Danube, nature education seminars and walks along the path in Zlatna Greda eco-center. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00 and on request.

Baranja adventure Ive Lole Ribara 27, Karanac, tel.

City pools (Gradski bazeni) F-3, Martina Divalta 6a, tel. (+385-31) 57 00 66, www.sportski-objekti.hr. If you want to get your swim on, there are pools available at Gradski bazeni. The largest one is not olympic size, but still large enough to get some laps in. It's about 1.8m deep. The recreational pool is about 1.3m deep and there's a kiddie pool for the youngsters. The entry fee is 20kn for adults and 15kn for children. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Copacabana F-1, Tvrđavica bb, www.sportski-objekti.
hr. Come to Osijek with visions of bronze-limbed Brazilians playing beach football and you'll probably be disappointed. However if you're the proud owner of a skimpy bathing costume and the weather is warm enough to wear it, then this is the place to come. Located on the northern banks of the Drava, Osijek's modest answer to Rio's famous beach is an open-air swimming pool (June-Sept) with water slide, surrounded by grassy lawns. Even if it's too cold for stripping off and splashing around, you still get great views across the river towards the Tvrđa district. The entrance fee is 5kn for adults and 2kn for children. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

Fishing
One of the popular pastimes practiced on the banks of the Drava is fishing. A variety of fish populates the waters of the river, including both pike and carp. The portion of the Drava near Bilje was the site of a World

Osijek In Your Pocket

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sHoPPing
www.lega-lega.com

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Shopping Malls
(+385-31) 63 86 40, office@avenuemallosijek.hr, www. avenuemallosijek.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Esseker Centre A-1, Ribarska 4, tel. (+385-31) 63 60 00. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Portanova B-3, Svilajska 31a, tel. (+385-31) 32 12 15, portanova@portanova.hr, www.portanova.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Souvenirs
Blažeković candlemaker H/I/J-3, Reisnerova 131, tel. (+385-31) 37 25 46/(+385-) 091 628 75 36, ranogajec.josip@gmail.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N Lega-lega E - 2, Županijska 25, tel. (+385-31) 49 41 04, info@lega-lega.com, www.lega-lega.com. The word lega, which is short for a colleague, is slang and especially dear to Osijek locals. At this store you can find notebooks, diaries, T shirts and other products with original designs amidst a sea of offered goods. Choose the one that truly reveals your character the best. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Nono E-2, Trg Slobode 8, tel. (+385-31) 78 00 13, www. nono-shop.com. A welcome addition to the re-vamped Trg Slobode shopping area, Nono offers a range of delicatessen and craft products from across Croatia. Items on sale include beautifully packaged Olivando olive oil from the Dalmatian island of Dugi otok, hand-made Fini sapuni blocks of soap from the island of Brač, and fruit preserves and jams from all over the country. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Rukotvorine A-1/2, Županijska 15, tel. (+385-31) 21 22 17. Q Open 08:30 - 12:30, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 14:00. Closed Sun. Škrinjica A-2, Trg A. Starčevića bb, tel. (+385-31) 20 49 66. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A The Čočić Cellars - Gift salon A/B-3, Ivana Gundulića 9, tel. (+385-31) 20 05 69, djurococic@gmail.com, www.cocic.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.1

Avenue Mall D-3, Sv. Leopolda Mandića 50a, tel.

Antiques
Antikviteti Kulić outskirts, Vinogradska 128, tel. (+385-31) 58 68 08/(+385-) 091 930 87 99, milka@ antikviteti-kulic.com, www.antikviteti-kulic.com. Q Open by prior arrangement. Balaban & Son E-2, Prolaz Vanje Radauša bb, tel. (+385-) 099 316 93 88, balaban.antikvarijat@gmail. com. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Ezop E-2, Županijska 19, tel. (+385-31) 20 24 44, ezop@ ezop-antikvarijat.hr, www.ezop-antikvarijat.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Fishing supplies
Adriana ribolovni centar E-2, Županijska 45, tel. (+385-31) 20 03 45, www.adriana-sport.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Udica E-2, Stjepana Radića 18, tel. (+385-31) 21 27 74. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Wine Tasting
28 34 34/(+385-) 098 174 71 08, info@vinotekavinita.hr, www.vinoteka-vinita.hr. Nestling in an intimate barrel-vaulted cellar just off Strossmayerova is Vinita, a wine bar and wine shop that is absolutely packed with quality produce from some of Croatia’s most renowned vineyards. On Thursday evenings local winemakers are invited to talk about their products and offer them for tasting. The shop sells just about everything from the Slavonia-Baranja region, making it an excellent point of call for those who don’t have the time to visit all the local cellars themselves. It’s a particularly good place to pick up the small-winery boutique wines that don’t have Croatia-wide supermarket distribution, such as Buhač from Ilok, Kalazić from Batina and Josić from Zmajevac. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.

Vinita E-2, J.J.Strossmayera 21, tel. (+385-31)

Blažeković candlemaker

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Designer Goodies Made in Osijek

Beer, matches and soap used to count among Osijek’s most famous exports. Nowadays the Slavonian city is more widely associated with cool design, thanks in large part to the Lega-Lega label, a range of cute, zany and cleverly packaged accessories and stationery that successfully unites quirky subculture with commercial acumen. The label name is in itself a reference to local street culture lega (short for ‘colleague’) is a specifically Osijek form of greeting, meaning something like ‘hi there!’ or ‘what’s up? Lega-Lega is the brainchild of design studio MIT, a group of local creatives who discovered that they had more bright ideas than they knew what to do with and simply decided to go into production with the best of them. At the end of 2006 MIT made a set of exclusive triangular-based teacups packaged in a matt black box as a special gift for some of their best clients, and were so pleased with the results that they decided to extend their activities into the commercial mainstream. They started producing own-design T-shirts printed with an imaginative selection of quirky designs and messages, and a range of stationery (notebooks, diaries and so on) sporting an attractive selection of printed, textured jackets. The brand became nationally visible in 2009, when Lega-Lega started selling their products in the Profil chain of multimedia stores. The T-Shirts were

packaged in milk-carton tetra-packs, a brilliant stroke of marketing inspiration that conveyed the idea of freshness and caught the public imagination at the same time. Lega-Lega supplied a fridge to each Profil store so that the T-shirts could be stacked in the manner of chilled groceries. Recent additions to the range have included Legić baby bibs and baby grows, and ankle straps for cyclists. The team behind Lega-Lega are committed cycling enthusiasts an d are amon g th e key supporters of the Pannonian Challenge - an extreme cycling fes ti val tha t brin gs together all kinds of a l t e r n a t i ve - c u l t u r e tribes: skaters, rollerbladers and BMX bikers included. Lega-Lega have also helped to breathe new life into the normall y sedate world of th e drinks coaster, adorning them with the kind of witty graphic designs that owe a lot to the world of alternative comics and graffiti art. One of the best-selling coaster sets featured the Japanac (“Japanese Guy”), a surfing cartoon figure with a mane of flaming hair - profits from the limited-edition set were donated to the Red Cross aid fund for the Japanese tsunami of 2011. Lega-Lega have picked up international awards for their designs and have also become an increasingly visible presence on the Croatian high street, opening stores in Dubrovnik and Zagreb in 2012. Their home base remains in Osijek, where the much-visited Lega-Lega shop occupies the ground floor of a three-storey hothouse of innovation that also includes MIT’s offices and meeting rooms.The Lega-Lega shop is at Županijska 25 (www.lega-lega.com)

Osijek In Your Pocket

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direCtorY
Banks & Exchanges
19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. Raiffeisenbank Austria E-2, Kapucinska 34, tel. (+385-31) 53 15 50/(+385-31) 53 15 70, www.rba. hr. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Sberbank E-2, Hrvatske Republike 45, tel. (+385-31) 22 97 00, www.sberbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Slatinska banka E-2, Županijska 13, tel. (+385-31) 20 07 97, www.slatinska-banka.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 17:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

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Beauty Centres
23 02 30, katarina@beauty-ka.hr, www.beauty-ka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 07:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A

Hypo Alpe Adria Bank E-2, Kapucinska 29, tel. (+385-) 062 10 11 02, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 08:00 -

Beauty centre Ka E-2, Šamačka 4, tel. (+385-31)

Dry cleaners & Laundries
Jadranka E-2, Županijska 6, tel. (+385-31) 20 07 06. Both laundry and dry cleaners. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Petra E-3, Gundulićeva 34, tel. (+385-31) 21 07 17. Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 12:30.
Closed Sun.

Business connections
Croatian Chamber of Economy - Osijek County Chamber F-2, Europske avenije 13, tel. (+385-31) 22 38 00, hgkos@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Q Open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. July - August 31 Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

English books
Algoritam E-2, Trg slobode 7, tel. (+385-31) 21 43 10, www.algoritam.hr. Books and magazines in foreign languages. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Hospital
General Hospital H-3, Josipa Huttlera 4, tel. (+385-31) 51 15 11, www.kbo.hr.

(Osijek County Chamber), tel. (+385-31) 22 38 52/ (+385-31) 22 38 00, eenos@hgk.hr, www.een.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June - August 31 Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun

Enterprise Europe Network (Europ ska poduzetnička mreža) F-2, Europske avenije 13

Language Schools
Ad Hoc E-2, Stjepana Radića 12, tel. (+385-31) 21 55 00, adhoc@adhoc.hr, www.adhoc.hr. Q Open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Lanico E-2, Županijska 18, tel. (+385-31) 20 09 66/

(+385-31) 20 09 67, lanico.hr@lanico.hr, www.lanico. hr. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Pets
(+385-31) 27 50 66, vetstaos@inet.hr, www.vetos.hr. For an emergency call (+385-31) 27 50 60. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun on request. Vetosan F-3, Bartula Kašića 18, tel. (+385-) 098 41 18 88, www.vetosan.hr. For an emergency call (+385-) 098 41 18 88. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 12:00 and on request. Closed Sat, Sun.

Veterinarska stanica Osijek H-5, Vinkovačka bb, tel.

Real estate

Mario Šućur

Elabo B - 2, Josipa Jurja Strossmayera 270, tel. (+385-

31) 37 60 00/(+385-) 098 21 42 69, elabo@elabo.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estate E-2, Kapucinska 25, tel. (+385-31) 20 11 13/ (+385-) 098 33 89 59, estate@estate.hr, www.estate. hr. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat by appointment. Closed Sun. German E-2, Kapucinska 23/I, tel. (+385-31) 20 01 01/ (+385-) 098 82 03 65, 091 530 77 20, info@germannekretnine.hr, www.german-nekretnine.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Nekretnine Osijek E-2, Trg slobode 3, tel. (+385-31) 20 02 11/(+385-) 098 63 06 65, www.nekretnineosijek. com. Q Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun on request.

Pharmacies
Centar E-2, Trg Ante Starčevića 7, tel. (+385-31) 20 57 22, centar@ljekarna-osijek.hr, www.ljekarna-osijek.hr. Q Open 07:30 - 21:00. Night shifts 21:00 - 07:00. Park F-2, Park kralja Petra Krešimira IV 6, tel. (+38531) 20 83 30, park@ljekarna-osijek.hr, www.ljekarnaosijek.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 21:00.

Police station
Police station E-3, Trg Lavoslava Ružičke 1, tel. (+38531) 23 71 11. Traffic police is at the same address, tel. (+385-31) 23 71 12, 23 71 14.

Emergency numbers
In case of emergency you can call the EU-wide emergency number 112 or the emergency services as below: Police Fire department Ambulance 192 193 194

Translators
55 00, adhoc@adhoc.hr, www.adhoc.hr. Translators for English, German, Italian, Russian, Cezch,... Q Open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lingua E-3, Ivana Gundulića 5, tel. (+385-31) 20 15 15, lingua@lingua.hr, www.lingua.hr. Translators for English, German, French, Italian, Spanish, Hungarian... QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Ad Hoc E-2, Stjepana Radića 12, tel. (+385-31) 21

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Events
19.05 Sunday 14.09 Saturday - 15.09 Sunday

The Spring March of Ljelje through Gorjani
Gorjani. Haunting! Spooky! Hmmm…According to tradition, the so-called queens of the village Gorjani in the OsijekBaranja region go around the village and perform a ritual made of special songs as well as their famous dance of swords. This custom is called the Yearly spring march of queens or ‘Ljelje’ which dates back to the beginning of the last century. It has been put on the UNESCO list of nonmaterial cultural heritage.

Fishermen Days

Kopačevo, www.tzo-bilje.hr. To catch a fish you need bait. See how for years the fishermen in this region had carried out their work with an exhibition of old fishermen’s tools, different types of fishing rods specific to river bank fishing and also complicated fish traps that contain sheer ancient wisdom. Local fishermen prepare fish meals in ways that are almost all but forgotten and the motto of the event is ‘to live in nature and not destroy it’.

05.07 Friday - 07.07 Sunday

Đakovački vezovi

31.05 Friday - 01.06 Saturday
This is a true ‘ethno festival’ with folklore dance and music the prime attraction. Step into the rhythm as folk ensembles present their audacious national costumes and age old dances. See the tools blacksmiths, tailors and other people used back in yonder as well as horse and carriage rides and local wine tasting. This summer event has spread beyond the village of Draž and includes Topolje, Gajić and Duboševica.

Baranjski bećarac

Đakovo city centre, www.tzdjakovo.hr. Are you fashionably inclined or do you prefer a taste of tradition? Either way, Đakovački vezovi is a well known cultural event that caters for the above. It’s a folklore show that offers visitors the opportunity to see a range of diversely handcrafted and richly decorated traditional costumes. It attracts folklore groups from the Slavonija and Baranja region, as well as from other parts of Croatia and abroad.

December

Čvarak fest

13.07 Saturday - 14.07 Sunday

Miholjačko sijelo

Donji Miholjac. Commercial music it isn’t, traditional music it is! See the gathering of Slavonian folklore groups that strive to keep original Slavonian folklore alive and kicking. This event also plays host to associations and groups from the rest of Croatia and abroad. Aside from performances, the programme also includes walks through the city, and a chance to enjoy the beauty of Slavonian tradition.

Karanac, www.tzbaranje.hr. The expression get some pork on your fork truly comes to life with čvarci. This is a dish made of baked pig’s skin for all the common folk, it is traditionally made by cooking pieces of pancetta and fat meat in a metal cattle, during which the fat is melted and little pieces of meat and fat are baked and dried. The outcome is a multitude of small golden coloured type semi salty pork balls which are kept dry and served independently, as an entrée, or side dish. In Karanac is held Čvarak fest, where you will able to taste this specialty.

Fiš paprikaš
A traditional gastronomic specialty of the Slavonia and Baranja region made from at least two types of fish. Just so you know, catfish is a part of every fish paprikash as well as sweet red pepper and dry hot red chilli peppers. This dish is best served with homemade noodles. If you do not have the courage to indulge in this culinary adventure on your own, come to Topolje where at the end of April or the beginning of May, the so-called Somijada (catfish fair) is held; it includes a Croatian fishermen’s competition and a contest in making the most appetizing fish paprikash. So you can taste it first hand and from the best. Draž Tourist Board (+38531) 73 61 00, ZŠRU Baranje (+385-31) 70 11 63.

04.08 Sunday

Ernestinovo Sculptor Colony
Ernestinovo. A regular event on the August calendar, this is a jamboree for both Croatian and foreign Naive sculptors who patriotically make their way to the Slavonian village of Ernestinovo to participate in a colony of wood sculpture. The wonderful unique and naive style is seen at its best here.

24.08 Saturday - 25.08 Sunday

Rakijada

01.09 Sunday

Vardarac, www.tzo-bilje.hr. You haven’t tasted true alcohol if you haven’t tasted rakija. This bomb in a shot glass will ignite you! Made from plums and according to strict procedure, there was not a Slavonian household which did not use the fruit for either marmalade, or drink. Rakija played an important role in the past and was a must have when working in fields, sowing seeds, harvesting etc. And today, it is always present at weddings and other special occasions. At rakija festival held in the village of Vardarac, see the process of making traditional rakija with sample tasting, traditional souvenirs sales and more. You may need a taxi home!

Pudarina

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Osijek In Your Pocket

Gajić Pudarina is the old name for the custom of keeping grapes in fermentation between the Feast of the Assumption and Nativity of Virgin Mary. Would you believe that this custom with a holy touch holds many interesting events such as flirtation between girls and boys? Around the Assumption, girls would usually be accompanied by older women and would go to the cellar in the village of Gajić. During the day, their singing and cheerful yelling would drive away all the animals that were intent on eating ripe grapes, whilst the rest of the time was dedicated to embroidery. In the evenings, boys would join the girls who had waited for them the entire day and together with pipes playing and singing, new loves were born.

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Baranja
Some travellers frequently make the mistake of assuming that a predominantly flat landscape is a predominantly boring landscape. As if you need a horizon-splicing selection of hills and mountains in order to make a place worth visiting at all. The Croatian Baranja, which stretches to the north of Osijek, is the ideal place to come and challenge these preconceptions. A green triangle of flatland set between the Danube, the Sava River, and the Hungarian border, the Baranja is filled with unspoiled villages and natural charms, and when it comes to rural tourism is one of Croatia's fastest growing areas. As a treasure-box of distinctive paprikaspiced recipes and increasingly excellent wines, the Baranja is also becoming a byword for gastronomic excellence. Spread out across the Baranja plain are a sequence of characteristically long and straggling villages, consisting largely of one-storey houses with colonnaded porches garlanded with drying red peppers. There is a significant Hungarian minority in the villages north of Osijek, and most of the road signs are bi-lingual: Hungarian national poet Sandor Petöfi appears to have more streets named after him than anyone else hereabouts. And if you think that the name of a town like Kneževi Vinogradi is difficult to pronounce, then try and get a hold on its Hungarian version, Herczegszöllös. Many of the villages of the Baranja have a Protestant as well as a Catholic church, a reminder of the time when Calvinism was strong among the Hungarianspeaking peasantry. Baranja is a major heartland of the paprika-laden cuisine that is common to Eastern Croatia and neighbouring Hungary, with dishes like čobanac, paprikaš and perkelt (hot red stews that in English-speaking countries might be grouped under the generic name of goulash) appearing on the menus of everything from fancy restaurants to roadside bistros. One of the region's main sources of culinary wealth is the rich stock of freshwater fish provided by the Danube and Drava rivers, and it is catfish, pike perch and carp and that form the ideal ingredients for the local speciality fiš paprikaš, a soupy paprika-laden stew featuring huge chunks of (usually un-boned) fish swimming around in spicy red liquid. Dishes like fiš paprikaš and its slightly thicker cousin perkelt are usually served with pasta noodles, and most establishments provide diners with a bib to prevent the (otherwise inevitable) embarrassment of coming away with red blotches all over their shirts. Indeed the Baranja's goulash repertoire is so good nowadays that culinary tourists from Hungary frequently cross the border to taste it. One of the prime gourmet destinations is Suza, east of Kneževi Vinogradi, a typical Baranja village in which locals sit on benches watching the world go by and gossiping in Hungarian, occasionally uttering a friendly dobar dan when a stranger walks by. At the western end of the village is an inn named Piroš Čizma (Hungarian for “red boots”), run by a part-local part-Italian family who do an excellent line in Baranja-meets-Mediterranean cuisine. At the eastern end of the village is Kovač Čarda (“Kovač's Tavern”), an increasingly popular destination for culinary pilgrims eager to try some of the highest-regarded fiš

paprikaš in Croatia. The Kovač family has a fish pond just up the road, ensuring that their fare is fresh. Kovač Čarda's dining room walls are covered with framed prize-winning diplomas from major paprika-cooking contests, notably from Kalocsa, the red-pepper capital of southern Hungary. Both Suza and the neighbouring village of Zmajevac hug the southern slopes of the Banska kosa, a long low ridge covered with some of the most productive vineyards in Eastern Croatia. Long famed for its dry white Graševina (known elsewhere as Welschriesling), the Banska kosa is increasingly home to a new generation of boutique wineries eager to both introduce grape varieties new to the region and to increase the quality of what is already there. The Baranja's biggest wine producer is Belje, who produce over 7 million litres of wine in the good years. Their wine cellars in Kneževi Vinogradi, complete with large wine-tasting hall, is perfect for visits by groups. Their two storey wine cellar, dating from 1526, is one of the oldest surviving cellars in Croatia. Belje also manage the Kormoran restaurant in the Kopački rit Nature Park, famous for serving the local delicacy of carp toasted over an open fire. The new generation of Baranja wine producers is exemplified by the Josić winery in Zmajevac, founded relatively recently by the Osijek-based wine enthusiast Damir Josić. “I always loved the Baranja and it was an easy decision”, Josić explains. “I bought a small vineyard and a cellar, and got started.” New technology made it possible for small wineries like Josić to focus on quality production in an economically viable way. Producing good-quality Graševina, the predominant local grape variety, was Josić's main aim. However he soon got interested in trying out imported varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz. His cuvee Ciconia Nigra (“Black Stork”), blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, is a high-quality wine that is not too expensive, and has helped to make Josić's name in Croatian winemaking circles. “I always thought the potential for red wine was enormous”, Josić continues. “In 2007 we made our first really successful cuvee and I immediately realized that Baranja was the ideal place for these red varieties”. The winery currently produces about 150,000 litres of wine a year - quite small in global terms but highly regarded among those who know their tipple. They also make their own aromatizirano vino or vermouth, a blend of red wine and herbs that tastes a bit like a cross between Port and Jägermeister. Josić remains keen to experiment: “Each new harvest is like a new school term. We've only been in this business a little over twelve years, which in wine-making terms is about equal to learning to walk.” Josić was also far-sighted enough to combine his winemaking business with a restaurant, thereby bringing together the main elements that Baranja-bound tourists are here to sample. Housed in one of the surduks, or wine-storing tunnels cut into the sandy soil of the Banska kosa ridge, the restaurant is big enough to cater for the coach parties that frequently crawl their way up here and atmospheric enough to keep small groups and couples happy too. The restaurant has picked up something of a reputation for presenting the best in local cuisine but with

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a touch of culinary style and experimentation. “Fish is the most important local ingredient, but poultry and game are also important. The menu is based on doing something creative with what is autochthonous and traditional.” East of Zmajevac the Banska kosa ridge comes to an abrupt halt when it meets the river Danube, which today marks the border between Croatia and the Serbian province of Vojvodina. The town of Batina on the Croatian bank of the Danube is dominated to a huge memorial to the dead of World War II. Grouped around the sculptor Antun Augustinčić's female allegory of victory mounted on a gargantuan pillar, the monument was built to commemorate the day in November 1944 when the Soviet Red Army and their Yugoslav Partizan allies crossed the river, incurring heavy losses as they went. Batina is also the home town of the Kazalić winery, another quality producer known for both classic reds like Cabernet Sauvignon and traditional local whites such as Graševina and Traminac. Another of Baranja's hit destinations is Karanac, a typical one-street village northwest of Kneževi Vinogradi with a more generous than usual sprinkling of traditional onestorey houses. One of Karanac's traditional farmsteads was purchased by Osijek-based tourism pioneer Denis Sklepić in 1998, who renovated it and transformed it into one of the first rural-style B&Bs in the region. Up the road from Sklepić's place, the Baranjska kuća restaurant doesn't just serve up some of the best in EastCroatian cuisine, but also houses a private ethnographic collection, stuffed with domestic implements and craft tools assembled over the years by the restaurant's owner. The fact that the Baranja has emerged as one of Croatia's most talked-about rural destinations has not come as a total surprise to the locals, who always knew that a seductive local brand could be fashioned on the basis of local wine and food. “If someone had asked me ten years ago what tourism in the Baranja was going to look like in 2013”, then my answer would have been something like this”, Damir Josić concludes, gesturing towards his restaurant slowly filling up with diners who have just been on a wine-tasting tour of the barrel-vaulted cellars right next door.

Horses
81 32 86, fax (+385-31) 82 25 30, lipicanac@ergeladjakovo.hr, www.ergela-djakovo.hr. While you are in Osijek you should also visit Đakovo and explore the history of the world-renowned Lipizzaner horses who make their home in the region. With their muscular, Baroque build and elegant features, Lipizzaners are beautiful to behold and watching them move is a spectacular sight. Usually thought of as white horses, they are actually born dark and have dark skin, but their coats turn lighter every year until the hair turns snowy white as the horses reach adulthood. Lipizzaner horses an important facet of Croatia's cultural heritage. Lipizzaner horse teams can be seen at cultural events throughout eastern Croatia, including Đakovački vezovi, a folklore festival of the regions of Slavonia and Baranja that takes place every July in Đakovo and is a showcase of traditional folk costumes, dancing and singing groups, and local customs. Visitors are welcome to the stud. Please call in advance if you would like a guided tour. Q Open 07:00 - 17:00, Sat and Sun on request. Price is 10 - 20kn for individual visits, the sightseeing includes two locations of the Đakovo paddock / stud farm (Pastuharna and Ivandvor) without a tour guide. These visits don't have to be announced in advance. For organized tourist tours (groups), there is a guided tour at the price of 20 - 30kn with an obligatory announcement and booking.

The State Stud Farm in Đakovo (Državna ergela Đakovo) Augusta Šenoe 45, Đakovo, tel. (+385-31)

Kopački rit
fax (+385-31) 75 23 21, prijemni.centar@kopackirit.hr, www.kopacki-rit.hr. Just 10km northeast of Osijek, Kopački rit is one of the largest areas of wetland in Europe, and is something of a paradise for wading birds and their admirers. Declared a Nature Reserve (park prirode) in 1976, this 23000-hectare expanse of lakes, reeds, woodland and pasture is criss-crossed by dyketop roads,making it easilyaccessible to the day-tripper. The main entrance to the Reserve is at the Visitors' Centre (Prijemni centar), a traditional-style thatched hut just north of the village of Kopačevo, where you pay an entrance fee and receive an English-language information leaflet. The park is easy to get to: if you're driving, head north from Osijek as far as the village of Bilje, turn right at the main crossroads, and follow the signs to “Park prirode Kopački rit”. There's a cycle path running alongside the Osijek-Bilje road, making it a pleasant two-wheel jaunt. Those with no wheels whatsoever will have to content themselves with catching an Osijek-Bilje bus (every 30-50 min from Vukovarska cesta) and walking the remaining 4km to the Visitors' Centre. Once beyond the Visitors' Centre you're free to explore the Reserve on your own, proceeding along the eastbound dyke for 2km before arriving at the shores of Lake Sakadaš, site of a partially sunken forest where you're likely to spot cormorants and herons. From here you really need a car to get the best out of the place. About 8km north of Lake Sakadaš are the oak forests of Tikveš, thronging with wild boar, deer, and secretive black storks. In the middle of the forest is the palatial, red-brick Tikveš Hunting Lodge (Dvorac Tikveš), built for Archduke Franz Ferdinand in the nineteenth century, taken over by the Serbian royal family after World War I, and subsequently used by communist leader Josip Broz Tito. Perhaps appropriately for a location long associated with spraying the local fauna with gunshot, Tikveš now hosts conservation-oriented seminars organized by the European Environmental Centre

Kopački Rit Nature Park (Park prirode Kopački rit) Titov dvorac 1, Lug, tel. (+385-31) 75 23 20,

Osijek In Your Pocket

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(Europski centar za okoliš). The area west of Tikveš is largely taken up with meadowland and commercial fish-breeding ponds. Returning towards the Visitor's Centre this way you'll pass the Kormoran restaurant, famous for carp roasted on a stick. The restaurant has got a lovely rustic interior, although it can get packed with coach parties at times. By far the best way to see the park is to take a boat trip or opt for a jeep tour with a local guide. It's important to ring the visitor's centre to enquire about these in advance rather than just turning up on spec - the boat trips in particular don't depart at a regular time every day of the week. The boat trip on Orao I (“Eagle One”) goes along Lake Sakadaš along the Čonakut canal to Lake Kopačko. Along the route you'll see sunken forests of white willow, crowded in spring with cormorants and geese and in autumn with migrating ducks. Heading back to Osijek via Bilje you can't fail to notice the handsome ochre palace at the eastern end of Bilje village, built at the end of the 17th century to serve as a hunting lodge for the greatest of the Austrian army's commanders, Prince Eugene of Savoy. The palace is now occupied by the administration offices of the Kopački rit Nature Reserve, but you're free to stroll through the main gate and admire the beautifully proportioned courtyard. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. May - September 31 Open 09:00 20:00. Admission 10kn. Guided tours 50 - 70kn per person. Guided tours for more then 25 people 50 - 65kn per person

of the late seventeenth century. The Palace, built in 1812 and modified half a century later, is probably the best-preserved aristocratic seat in Slavonia, and the only one which is regularly open to the public. Inside, a grandiose double staircase curves its way up to the first-floor Regional Museum, a large part of which is devoted to Dora Pejačević (1885-1923), Croatia's first female composer. Dora's grand piano takes centre stage, surrounded by sepia family photographs, and a milky marble bust of a veiled female corpse that the moody composer kept in her room. The museum curator will gladly play a tape of Pejačević's works as you look round (and there are CDs for sale should you like what you hear). Two other talented locals who get whole rooms to themselves are sculptor Hinko Juhn (18911940), represented here by some sensuous female nudes, and Izidor Kršnjavi (1845-1927), a painter and art critic who had a profound influence on the Zagreb art scene in the years prior to World War I. Watch out for Vlaho Bukovac's striking portrait of Kršnjavi, dressed up in striking orangey-red tunic and coat. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Mon, Fri 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Palaces
Mailath Palace (Dvorac Mailath) Donji Miholjac.
Thirty kilometers northwest of Valpovo, on an ox-bow spur of the River Drava, Donji Miholjac is a town which fell under the sway of the Hilleprand von Prandaus in the eighteenth-century. Ana Hilleprand von Prandau built a long, single-storey arcaded pied-à-terre in the center of town in 1818, inherited 70 years later by Mailath von Székhely, when the male Hilleprand von Prandau line came to an end. Mailath von Székhely's enlargement of the palace with the frivolous addition of mock-Tudor turrets and medievalchateau towers, makes Donji Miholjac one of the most eccentric country houses in this part of Europe. There's no museum in the palace, but the overgrown neighboring park provides a good opportunity to stretch your legs.

Pejačević Palace (Dvorac Pejačević) Trg dr. Franje

Tuđmana 5, Našice, tel. (+385-31) 61 34 14, www.zmn. hr. Located 50km northwest of Osijek on the road to Virovitica, Našice is the kind of peaceful one-street town that you'll find all over Slavonia. Slap bang in the middle of town is the Pejačević Palace (Dvorac Pejačević), a deliciously custardcoloured structure framed by a splendid pair of bulbous green towers. The palace gets its name from the Pejačević family, granted ownership of the town in 1732 in reward for their services to the Habsburg court during the anti-Ottoman wars

Normann) Valpovo. Heading northeast from Našice brings you swiftly to Valpovo, a market town which grew up around the medieval castle of the Morović clan. The castle was strengthened by the Ottoman Turks, who left the red-brick, horseshoe-shaped fortifications in pretty good condition when they were ridden out of town by the Austrians in 1687. In 1721 the Habsburg court awarded the town to the Tyrolean family of Hilleprand von Prandau, who governed Valpovo as absentee landlords until Josip Ignatz Hilleprand von Prandau (1749-1816) decided to abandon the hurly-burly of Viennese life and settled here for good. Using the existing fortress as the nucleus of his palace, Josip Ignatz added a neoclassical façade topped by a clock tower, whose creamy-pink colour scheme is still in fabulous condition. Passing through the tunnel-like gate beneath the clocktower brings you into an attractive cobbled courtyard overlooked by a sandcastleshaped medieval tower and a whitewashed gothic chapel. The Valpovo Regional Museum (Muzej Valpovštine), tel. (+385-31) 65 06 39. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Mon, Thu 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. June - September 15 Open 10:00 - 12:00, Mon, Thu 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 13:00, Sun on request. Admission 8 - 12kn. The Museum has got a permanent display of the Prandau - Normann family. They might be able to open up the tower and the chapel for you if you make an appointment in advance. In front of the palace a stone bridge leads across the former moat to the castle park, a perfectly preserved 19th century landscaped affair rich in deciduous trees. 2013

Prandau - Normann Palace (Dvorac Prandau -

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Wine
For literally thousands of years in the regions of OsijekBaranja County, grapes have been cultivated to produce that ever-popular and satisfying beverage known as wine. The Baranja region’s name itself is a hint as to its wine growing abilities: in Hungarian, boranya means “wine mother.” Obviously, it was given this moniker because it was particularly suited to growing grapes; that fact remains true to this day. The area receives just the right amount of rainfall every year and has the ideal average temperature to enable those yummy little fruits to grow (and get squashed later on). One of the ways to get acquainted with some of Croatia’s finest wines is to take a trip along the wine road. The wine road runs through Baranja district along Banska kosa hill, “Mons aureus” or “Golden Hill”, Đakovo district, Erdut district and Ferćanci district - a route that will lead you to renowned wine merchants who will do their best to convince you of the superiority of their liquid wares. The growing popularity of the region’s wine has made the wine road an oft-visited attraction for the area. Consequently, the cellars and the wine keep getting better and better. It’s time to start tasting! You can visit the cellars every day (except during the grape harvest) but be sure to call first to make an appointment.

Willage Guest House
tel. (+385-31) 73 40 55/(+385-) 091 200 58 85, 091 210 08 85, baranjski.dvori@gmail.com, www. baranjski-dvori.hr. If you happen to be in the village of Zmajevac and need a little rest and relaxation with a side of tasty homemade food, this cozy bed and breakfast will do the trick. The hospitable hosts make you feel right at home and it’s in the perfect location to explore the area or the local wine roads. There are four rooms with thick walls and real oak beds that guarantee a good night’s sleep. Each room comes with its own bathroom and bears a local girl’s name. You should definitely call ahead to check availability. Q7 rooms (4 doubles 150kn, 2 quads 150kn, 1 apartment 150kn). Prices are per person per night and include breakfast. 6LW hhh Crvendać Biljske satnije ZNG RH 5, Bilje, tel. (+385-31) 75 02 64/(+385-) 091 551 57 11, 099 692 78 28, pansion@crvendac.com, www.crvendac. com. Set in a well-tended garden, this lovely house offers clean bright rooms with laminated floors and shared WC/ shower facilities. A mood-enhancing red-and-white color scheme runs through absolutely everything in the house - hence the name, which is Croatian for ‘robin red-breast’ The home-cooking is excellent and half- or full-board arrangements are well worth considering. Q3 rooms (1 double 156kn, 2 triples 156kn). Prices are per person per night and include breakfast. 6LW Ivica i Marica Ive Lole Ribara 8a, Karanac, tel. (+385-) 091 137 37 93/(+385-) 098 25 26 74, ivicaimarica@ivica-marica.com, www.ivica-marica. com. A farm in the ethno village of Karanac which is run by a young, friendly family. Visitors can choose between renting rooms, apartments or the entire house, and the family will provide you with plenty of options as to how to spend your time: excursions, sporting activities or even helping out with the housework. It really is a sweet combination of the modern and traditional, and it’s bound to warm the cockles of your heart. Q9 rooms (4 triples 225kn, 5 apartments 225kn). Prices are per person per night and include breakfast. H6LW hhh Kukuriku Kolodvorska 18, Karanac, tel. (+385-) 098 25 21 79, kukuriku-karanac@net.hr. This old, original Pannonian house in Karanac has plenty of preserved details. It’s perfect for families with children and it offers a carefree holiday since it has all the necessities for babies as well as educational toys and a backyard with sand pit. Bicycle rental is available and pets are welcomed. Q3 rooms (2 doubles 150kn, 1 triple 150kn). Prices are per person per night and include breakfast. T6L Mazur Kneza Branimira 2, Bilje, tel. (+385-31) 75 02 94/(+385-) 098 82 61 15, infomazur@gmail.com, www.mazur.hr. Friendly family house in the middle of Bilje offering recently refurbished rooms with a/c, bathroom, mini bar and TV. Lovingly-restored old cupboards and wardrobes feature in a couple of the rooms. Q4 rooms (1 double 156 - 306kn, 3 triples 156 - 306kn). Prices are per person per night. P6LNGW hhh Sklepić Kolodvorska 58, Karanac, tel. (+385-31) 72 02 71/(+385-) 098 73 91 59, denis.sklepic@inet.hr, www.sklepic.hr. Eight kilometres east of Beli Manastir, this charming B&B occupies a lovingly-restored Baranja farmhouse, complete with red peppers hanging up to dry in the porch, and geese honking merrily in the yard. The rooms have modern bathrooms but attractive oldfashioned furnishings elsewhere, including some lovely bits of embroidery on the curtains and tablecloths. Q7 rooms (7 doubles 185 - 247kn). Prices are per person per night and include breakfast. 6LGW

Baranjski dvori Šandora Petefija 61, Zmajevac,

Đakovo district
Đakovačka vina Mandićevac bb, Drenje, tel. (+38531) 83 72 00, djakovacka-vina@os.t-com.hr, www. djakovacka-vina.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Misna vina Ulica Josipa Jurja Strossmayera 24, Trnava, tel. (+385-) 099 319 55 01, misna.vina@djos.hr, www. misna-vina.com. Q Open 07:00 - 15:00, and on request.

Baranja district
Belje wine cellar Šandora Petefija 2, Kneževi Vinogradi, tel. (+385-31) 73 09 22/(+385-31) 73 09 02, www. belje.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Please call ahead to arrange a tour of the vineyard and the wine cellar. Čočić wine cellar Ružina 20, Zmajevac, tel. (+385-) 091 110 49 42, www.cocic.hr. Q Open by prior arrangement. Gerštmajer wine cellar Šandora Petefija 31, Zmajevac, tel. (+385-) 091 351 55 86, vinagerstmajer@gmail. com. Q Open by prior arrangement. Josić wine cellar Planina 194, Zmajevac, tel. (+385-) 098 25 26 57, vinarija_josic@net.hr, www.josic.hr. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Kolar wine cellar Maršala Tita Suza, tel. (+385-31) 73 30 81/(+385-) 091 521 86 23, fax (+385-31) 73 31 84, www.podrumi-kolar.com. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Erdut district
IPK Erdutski vinogradi Trg Branka Hercega 1, Erdut, QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
tel. (+385-31) 59 65 55, www.erdutski-vinogradi.hr.

Feričanci district
Feravino Feričeva 16, Feričanci, tel. (+385-31) 60 32 13, www.feravino.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Osijek In Your Pocket

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Villach Budapest

Maribor

Čakovec
Budapest

Y
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Vratno Ludbreg Drnje

Varaždin Kotoriba

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Makarska
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Bol SumartinPodgora Hvar StarigradVrboska Vrgorac Hva r Sućuraj Drvenik Jelsa

R

A
Uglješ Švajcarnica

Lug

N
Darda
Vardarac Mece

J

Tikveš

HR

PP KOPAČKI RIT
Sarajevo

Svet ac
Orebić Vela Luka

Vi s Biš evo S uš ac
Lastovo Uble

Komiža

Vis

A

Trpanj Opuzen Metković Blato Korčula Pelješa cNeum Ko rč ula Lumbarda Polače N. p. Mljet

Ploče

Kopačko jezero

Bilje Kopačevo
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Ston Sobra
Nikšić

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La stovo

Š ip a n

Slano

A1

Kotor, Podgorica

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S

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Lopud

Dubrovnik
Bari

Cavtat

Pal ag ruža

A5
Prevlaka

OSIJEK

A

t
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Veliki Troglav 1912

Beli Manastir
Šumarina Petlovac Novi Bolman E73

i
n
Peručko jezero

Karanac

a

D

c

D u gi O tok

Biograd na moru

l

Sali

Tkon Vransko jezero

S

Žu t Korna t

Kistanje Krka N. p. Krka Mala Čista m Drniš Pirovac Murter Vodice a Skradin

street register
A Adamovića, Ive E-2 Alanska C-2 Aljmaška F-4 Andrića, Jospia E-3 Ariša C-4 B Bakarska G/H-5 Banova H/I-2, I-3 Banjalučka G-3/4 Bapska H-3/4 Baranjska G-3 Bašćanska H-3 Bednjanska D-4 Belišćanska G-3 Belomanastirska F/G-3 Biđska D-4 Bihačka G-4 Bilogorska C-2 Biljska cesta G/H-1, G-2 Biogradska H-3,H/I-4 Bistrička D-4 Biševska G-3 Bjelinskog, Brune G-3 Bjelolasićka C-2 Bjelovarska G-3 Blažića, Franje Antuna D-1/2 Blok centar II E-2 Bokokotorska H-5 Borova B/C-4, C-5 Bosanska G-3 Bösendorfera, Josipa F-2 Bosutska D/E-3, E-4 Bosutsko naselje E-4 Boškovića, Ruđera F-2 Bračka G/H-3 Breznička E-5 Brijunska H-3 Brlić-Mažuranić, Ivane C-2 Brodska G-4 Bunska E-4 Buzetska H-4 C Cara Hadrijana G-2 Cesarića, Dobriše F-2/3 Cetinska E-3 Ciglarska I-2 Creska H-3 Crikvenička I-3 Crkvena H/I-2 Cvjetkova H-2/3 Č Čevapovića, Grgura E-3 Čikolska F-3 Čvrsnička C-2 Ć Ćelijska G-4 D Dalmatinska C-2/3 Daruvarska G-4 Delnička F/G-4 Divalta, M. F/G/H/I-3, I/J-4 Donjodravska obala H/i-2 Dragonjska D/E-4 Dravska D/E-4 Dravska obala G/H-2 Drinska E/F-3 Drniška G-4 Dubrovačka D-2/3 Dugog otoka H-4 Dunavska E-3 Đ Đakovačka G-4 Đakovština E-3 E Erdutska G-3 Europska avenija E/F-2 F Fakultetska F-2 Firingera, Kamila F-2 Frankopana, F Krste . H-3 Franjevačka F-2 G Gacka E-4 Gluha H-2 Gojkovića, Jovana H-2 Gornjodravska o. D/E-2 Gospička G-4 Gradačka H-4 Grmić H-1 Gundulića, Ivana D/E-2/3 Gupca, Matije H/I-3 H Hebranga, Andrije D-2 Hengla, Vjekoslava E-2 Hercegovačka H-3 Hötzendorfa, Huge E-2 Hrvatske republike E-2 Humska H-4 Huttlera, Josipa H-3 Hvarska H-3 I Ilirska D-2 Iločka G-4 Ivanovačka G-4 J Jablanova B/C-4/5 Jadranska E-3 Jadrovska E-4 Jägera, Lorenza E-2 Jagića, Vatroslava F-2 Jahorinska C/D-2 Jankovačka C-2 Jovanovića, Zmaja Jove H-2 K Kalnička C-2 Kanižlića, Antuna D-2 Kapucinska E-2 Karašićka D-5 Kardinala A. Stepinca E-2/3 Kašića, Bartula F-3 Kaštelanska H-4 Katančića, M. Petra F-2 Keršovanija, Otokara F-2/3 Kišpatića, Mije H/I-2 Klaića, Vjekoslava F-2 Klanac D-2 Kneza Borne C-1 Kneza Trpimira F/G-2/3 Kninska G-4 Kolodvorska B-1/2 Koranska E-3 Korčulanska G/H-3 Kornatska H-4 Kovačića, Ivana Gorana G-3 Kozjačka C-2 Krajna D-3 Kralja Petra Svačića G-2/3/4 Kranjčevića, S. S. D-3 Krapinsko naselje E-3 Krbavska E-3 Krčka G-3 Krežme, Franje F-2 Krndije C-2 Krstova H/I-1 Kršnjavoga, Izidora D-2/3 Kuhača, Franje F-2 Kupska E-3 Kutinska G-4 Kvarnerska H-4 L Labinska H-4 Lađarska I-2 Lanosavića, Marijana I-3 Laslovačka G-4 Lastovska H-3 Ledine H-3 Lička D-2 Lipička G-4 Livadića, Ferde G-3 Lokrumska H-3/4 Lonjska D-4 Lopudska G-3 Lošinjska H-4 Lovranska H-4 Lučki prilaz E-2 LJ Ljubljanska G-3 M Makarska H-4 Markovića, Franje F-2 Medulinska H-4 Mihanovića, Antuna F-3 Miholjačka G-3/4 Miljacka E-4 Mirna D/E-4 Mljetska H-3 Mosorska C-2 Mostarska I-2 Motovunska H-4 Mrežnička D-4 Muckea, Franje G-2 Murska F-3 Murterska H-4 N Naselje Ivana Česmičkog G-3 Naselje Miroslava Krleže H-3 Našička D-3 Našičko naselje D-3 Neretvanska E-3 Neumana, Dragutina E-2 Nova ulica G-2 Novogradiška F-4 Nuštarska G-3/4 O Olibska H-3 Opatijska H-4 Orebićka H-4 Orljavska G-4 P Pakračka G-4 Palagruška H-3 Pampas C-1 Papuk gore C-2 Paradžik, Ante D-2 Park kneza Branimira F-2 Park kralja Držislava F-2 Park kralja P Krešimira IV F-2 . Park kraljice K. Kosača H-2 Paška H-3/4 Pašmanska H-4 Pazinska H-3 Pejačevića, Pavla D-2 Pelješačka H-4 Peradarnik D-5 Perivoj kralja Tomislava F-2 Petöfija Sandora B/C-1 Pinterović, Danice F-2 Piranska H-4 Platačka C-2 Plitvička I-4 Plivska E-4 Plješevačka B-2 Podgoračka D-3 Podravska D-2 Podvinje D-3 Poljski put C/D-2 Porečka H-4 Posavskog, Ljudevita C-2 Požeška G-3 Prenjska C-2 Prijedorska G-4 Primorska H-2 Princa E. Savojskog G/H-2 Prolaz Carla Bende E-2 Prolaz Josipa Benešića E-2 Prolaz Josipa Leovića E-3 Prolaz Lorenza Jägera E-2 Prolaz Matice hrvatske E-2 Prolaz Vanje Radauša E-2 Prominska C-2 Psunjska C-3 Pulska H-4 Pustara Cimer H-5 Pustara Šeper C-3 R Radičevića, Branka H-2 Radića, Stjepana E-2/3 Ramska E-3 Rapska H-3 Raška E-5 Reihl-Kira, Josipa G/H-3/4 Reisnera, Adama D/E/F-3 Ribarska E-2 Riječka H-3 Rijeke Dubrovačke D-4 Rovinjska H-4 Ružina D-2 S Sanska E-4 Sarajevska I-2/3 Sarvaška G-4 Savska E-3 Senjska H-3 Sisačka G-4 Sjenjak F/G-3 Skopska G-4 Slatinska G-4 Slaz D-1 Sljemenska C-2 Snježnička C-3 Solarski trg D-1/2 Splavarska D-1 Splitska H-3 Srijemska H-3/4 Stadionsko naselje F-4 Starigradska H-4 Stonska I-4 Strma D-1 Strossmayera, J.J.B/C/D/E-2 Subotička G-4 Sunčana E-2 Sutlanska E-3 Svete Ane D-2 Svetog Josipa Radnika E-3 Svetog Leopolda Bogdana Mandića B/C/D- 3/4/5 Svetog Petka H-2/3 Svetog Roka D-2 Š Šamačka E-2 Šet. k. F Šepera . E-2 Šet. P Preradovića . E-2 Šibenička H-4 Šimića, Antuna Branka I-2 Širokobriješka G-4 Školska E-2 Šokačka C-2 Šoltanska H-3 T Tijardovića, Ive H-2 Tovarnička H-4 Trebižatska E-4 Trg Ante Starčevića E-2 Trg Augusta Šenoe F-3 Trg bana J. Jelačića H-3 Trg baruna Trenka F-2 Trg Ivana Pavla II E-2 Trg Josipa Runjanina H-3 Trg Jurja Križanića F-2 Trg Lava Mirskog E-2 Trg Lavoslava Ružičke E-3 Trg Ljudevita Gaja E-2 Trg Nikole Tesle H-2 Trg slobode E-2 Trg Svetog Trojstva F-2 Trg Vatroslava Lisinskog F-2 Trogirska H-3 Trpanjska H-4 Tvornička H-3 Tvrđavica E-1 U Učka C-2/3 Ugljanska H-4 Ujevića, Tina D-2 Ukrinska D-4 Uske njive G-4 V Valpovačka G-4 Varaždinska G-3 Vatrogasna G-3/4 Velaluška H-4 Veličanska D/E-4 Vijenac Augusta Cesarca D-2 Vijenac Dinare C-2 Vijenac G. Zobundžije D-2 Vijenac I. Meštrovića F/G-2/3 Vijenac Ivana Mažuranića F-2 Vijenac Jakova Gotovca E-2 Vijenac Josipa Kozarca D-2 Vijenac Kraljeve Sutjeske E-3 Vijenac Ljube Babića D-2 Vijenac Medvednice C-2 Vijenac Murse H-3 Vijenac Paje Kolarića E-2 Vijenac Petrove gore C-2/3 Vijenac Slavka Kolara H-2 Vijenac Stanka Vraza D-3 Vijenac Vladimira Nazora D-2 Vijenac Vlahe Bukovca H-2 Vinkovačka D/E-4 Virovitička G-4 Viška H-3 Voćinska F-4 Vodenička H-2 Vrbaska E-3 Vrt Jagode Truhelke E-2 Vukanska D-3 Vukovarska E/F-2 W Waldingera, Adolfa D-2 Wilsona, Woodrowa F-3/4 Z Zadarska E-2 Zagorska G-3 Zagrebačka F-2/3 Zajca, Ivana G-3 Zaostroška H-4 Zlarinska G-3/4 Zoološki vrt D-1 Zrinske gore C-2 Zrinskog, Nikole Šubića G-3 Zrinjevac E-3 Zrmanjska E-3 Zvečevska C-2 Ž Žumberačka C-2 Županijska E-2

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