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De: BladeWeb Brazil

Assunto: AFIANDO LAMINAS SERRILHADAS


Data: Quarta-feira, 16 de Julho de 1997 01:10

Segue um artigo extremamente interessante sobre tecnicas de afiacao em


laminas serrilhadas. Elas estao cada vez mais populares e demandam
cuidados (e equipamento) de manutencao e afiacao especificos.

Vejam abaixo o artigo em ingles. Se solicitado, poderei traduzir o


artigo. Boa leitura!
....................................................................

SHARPENING SERRATIONS by Rick Schultz

I. SERRATIONS DESCRIPTION

Note: A CONDENSED version of this article, including photos can be seen


in
the July 1996 issue of BLADE Magazine.

Serrated blades have become very popular due to the increased cutting
ability of serrations compared to the straight knife edge. This is due
in
part to the physics of the serrations themselves. As less knife blade
metal
(i.e. the points or tips of the serrations) comes into contact with the
material being cut, more pressure is being directly applied. In other
words, if exerting the same pounds-per-square-inch to the blade over a
smaller knife edge surface area, the pressure at the knife edge contact
point directly increases. Secondly, by the serration "scallop" being a
radius (circular shape) in two planes, it is stronger than that of a
straight knife edge. This means that the edge of the serration is more
likely to resist folding over like that of a straight knife edge.
Thirdly,
when coming into contact with hard objects, the tips of the serrations
are
more likely to hit first, thereby protecting the "scallop" cutting edge.
As
you can see, a correctly designed and sharpened serration will not only
cut
more aggressively, but also stay sharper longer.

Serrations are usually made up of two different sized scallops - large


or
major scallop, and small or minor scallop. Serrated blades also come in
two
distinct patterns; (a) standard serration - in which the major width of
the
minor scallop is concave (also known as an "innie") - such as the Gerber
Gator Serrater, the Beretta AirLight Serrated, and Spyderco models, and
(b)
reverse serration - in which the major width of the minor scallop is
convex
(also known as an "outie") - such as the Mission Knives MPK and most
Benchmade models.

II. HOW TO SHARPEN SERRATIONS TO A RAZOR EDGE


In general, most of the commercially available knives today come in one
of
three types of grind patterns; (a) hollow grind, (b) "V" grind, or (c)
chisel grind. This applies to hunting knives, camp knives, fighting
knives,
kitchen knives, etc. Regardless of which type of blade grind you have,
the
serrations that are ground onto each particular blade will be sharpened
in
generally the same manner.

Defining the Burr - Visually, a well formed burr will look like, and
have
the properties of, a small piece of aluminum foil. It is formed as the
metal that lies against the sharpener becomes so thin and pliable that
the
sharpener will no longer cut it off. The burr just "flops over" to the
other side as you switch sides of the blade being sharpened. This
scenario
happens when sharpening the straight edge of a dual-sided knife edge.
When
sharpening a single-sided knife edge such as serrations or a chisel
ground
blade, the correct process is to form a burr along the back side of the
blade, then use the sharpener to actually cut off the burr.

More specifically, you can think of the cutting edge of the blade as the
metal that is directly underneath the burr. In other words, the cutting
edge of the blade is being formed as a correctly formed burr is being
removed. This is the most important concept in sharpening. As you are
sharpening the serration, a burr will be formed along the entire back
side
of the area being sharpened. When the sharpening of a serrated edge is
sufficient, a uniform and consistent burr can be felt on the entire back
side of this area. In other words, a burr will be formed that is always
turned up from the side that lies against the sharpener.

Discussed below is how to correctly form a burr on a serrated edge and


then
correctly remove it. Please keep in mind that serrations are sharpened
in
generally the same manner as a chisel, scissors, or a knife with a
chisel
ground blade - from one side only.

BY HAND:

Sharpening by hand is more difficult than with a sharpening system. Most


importantly, you must religiously follow the manufacturers original
angle
of the serration grind. Each manufacturer has invested considerable
research and development (time and money) into determining an exact
serration angle for each particular knife blade. Changing this angle
will
decrease the cutting ability of the serration. Also of importance is to
ONLY SHARPEN the SERRATED SIDE! NEVER try to sharpen the back side of
the
serration. If you do, you will also be reducing the cutting ability of
the
serration by (a) increasing the overall angle of the edge, and (b)
turning
the burr back into the serrated side of the blade thereby rounding the
edge.

Step 1

Use a round/course/aggressive sharpener (such as the EZE-LAP model M, or


Gerber diamond sharpener) to sharpen the major scallops until you feel a
burr running evenly along the opposite side of the serrated edge. Use an
up-and-down motion by moving the sharpener from the top of the knife
blade
down to the knife edge, then back up again. Try and maintain the same
angle
by following the original serration grind. One way to help you do this
is
by using a felt marker or "whiteboard" marker. The whiteboard marker ink
will easily wipe off and not stain the blade.. Mark all of the serration
scallops completely. The ink will then be abraded away entirely by the
sharpener when sharpening correctly. Done correctly, you can maintain
the
same angle. Make sure to sharpen the entire width of the scallop. Next,
use
a smaller diameter sharpener (such as the EZE-LAP model S, or EZE-LAP
diamond files) to sharpen the minor scallops until you feel a burr
running
evenly along the opposite side of the blade edge. For the standard or
"innie" serration pattern, sharpen the same as you would the major
serrations. For the reverse serrations, use diamond files to sharpen in
between the minor serrations. If the tips of either serrations are
damaged
or dull, touch these up in the same manner you would to sharpen or touch
up
a straight knife edge. Again, continue until you feel a burr along the
back
side of the blade. Once complete, turn the knife over and hold the
sharpening rod flat against this back side. Lightly "wipe" the sharpener
back-and-forth (normally 2 to three passes should be adequate), removing
only the turned up part of the burr.

Step 2

Use a round/fine/nonaggressive sharpener, such as an ultra-fine diamond


or
ceramic (aluminum-oxide, or silicon-carbide) to sharpen the major
scallops
until you feel a burr running evenly along the opposite side of the
serrated edge. Use a unidirectional stroke that only pushes the
sharpener
into the serration, starting from the knife edge up to the spine. As
before, try and maintain the same angle by following the original
serration
grind. Next, sharpen the minor scallops and turn the knife over and
"de-burr", as described in step 1. This second step is to be done at a
very
light pressure, and is intended to be more of a polishing step. If
required, touch up the tips as before. After following these steps you
should have a razor sharp edge on your serrated blade.

BY SHARPENING SYSTEM:

Many sharpening systems exist today, from ones which use a knife clamp
and
honing guide to the ever popular "V" type. When using these systems,
refer
to the "how to" manual supplied with that specific system. There are
both
positives and negatives associated with the use of these systems when
sharpening serrations. Some of the positives are that most systems are
easy
to use, have safety features designed in, and do a fairly good job in
sharpening. The negatives are that while some are fairly expensive,
others
will require you to sharpen both sides of the serrations. As discussed
before, sharpening both sides is not recommended. If you do want to
invest
in a sharpening system, I would recommend that you purchase one which,
at a
minimum, allows you to follow the original grind of the serration and
then
"flat wipe" the back side of the blade.

MAINTENANCE:

To tune-up serrations which have been subjected to normal wear and tear,
try softly flat-wiping the back side of the blade with your sharpener.
Normally, this is enough to maintain a razor edge. If this does not
work,
try using the fine/nonaggressive sharpener to touch up the serrations.
Then
again, wipe the back side. Also, touch-up the tips. If the serrations
have
been abused, you will need to resharpen them in the manner(s) described
above.

CONCLUSION:

Which sharpening method do I recommend? I recommend you use the one that
you are familiar with (either by hand or by system) and you get good
results. I use and prefer sharpening by hand, with a diamond coated rod.
This brings me to one last important point - the long term effects on a
serrated knife blade resulting from many hundreds of sharpenings.
Consider
three blades: (A) new knife which is used as a reference blade, (B)
results
of many hundreds of sharpenings by hand as described above, and (C)
results
of many hundreds of sharpenings by popular "V" systems. Why would blades
B
and C look so different? In the case of blade B, each time you sharpen
the
entire "scallop", you are removing material along the entire surface
area
of the scallop. In other words, you are not only removing material at
the
cutting edge, but also at the top of the scallop. As you sharpen
over-and-over again, the size of the scallop is basically maintained.
With
"V" type systems (and other types which do not allow you to sharpen the
entire scallop), the "V" sticks initially only come into contact with
the
serrated knife edge. After some of the edge is abraded away, the "V"
sticks
then come into contact with the entire scallop. Depending on the angle
of
the serration that the knife manufacturer has placed on the blade, and
depending on the angle of the "V" sticks, abrasion can be mild to
extreme.
Blade C would show that if you keep removing material from the knife
edge,
you will eventually abrade away much of the serration. Also remember
that
sharpening the back side of the serrated blade (with the "V" systems)
helps
to abrade away the serration. Another drawback to these "V" systems is
that
they will abrade away the minor scallops of a reverse-serration blade.
This
is why I prefer sharpening by hand.

In closing, when sharpening, use a fine pressure on the serration by


letting the sharpener do most of the work. In other words, do not use a
lot
of physical force because you can actually bend the edge of the
serration
over and get a false indication of a burr. What you are really trying to
achieve is a correctly formed uniform and consistent burr. This means
that
you will want to invest in a high quality, fairly aggressive media such
as
diamond, and for the second pass a high quality ceramic. Secondly, take
your time to do a good job. A rushed job will not only achieve an edge
that
is not as sharp, but more importantly, a rushed job increases the
probability of you getting cut.

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