De: BladeWeb Brazil Assunto: AFIANDO LAMINAS SERRILHADAS Data: Quarta-feira, 16 de Julho de 1997 01:10 Segue um artigo extremamente interessante

sobre tecnicas de afiacao em laminas serrilhadas. Elas estao cada vez mais populares e demandam cuidados (e equipamento) de manutencao e afiacao especificos. Vejam abaixo o artigo em ingles. Se solicitado, poderei traduzir o artigo. Boa leitura! .................................................................... SHARPENING SERRATIONS by Rick Schultz I. SERRATIONS DESCRIPTION Note: A CONDENSED version of this article, including photos can be seen in the July 1996 issue of BLADE Magazine. Serrated blades have become very popular due to the increased cutting ability of serrations compared to the straight knife edge. This is due in part to the physics of the serrations themselves. As less knife blade metal (i.e. the points or tips of the serrations) comes into contact with the material being cut, more pressure is being directly applied. In other words, if exerting the same pounds-per-square-inch to the blade over a smaller knife edge surface area, the pressure at the knife edge contact point directly increases. Secondly, by the serration "scallop" being a radius (circular shape) in two planes, it is stronger than that of a straight knife edge. This means that the edge of the serration is more likely to resist folding over like that of a straight knife edge. Thirdly, when coming into contact with hard objects, the tips of the serrations are more likely to hit first, thereby protecting the "scallop" cutting edge. As you can see, a correctly designed and sharpened serration will not only cut more aggressively, but also stay sharper longer. Serrations are usually made up of two different sized scallops - large or major scallop, and small or minor scallop. Serrated blades also come in two distinct patterns; (a) standard serration - in which the major width of the minor scallop is concave (also known as an "innie") - such as the Gerber Gator Serrater, the Beretta AirLight Serrated, and Spyderco models, and (b) reverse serration - in which the major width of the minor scallop is convex (also known as an "outie") - such as the Mission Knives MPK and most Benchmade models. II. HOW TO SHARPEN SERRATIONS TO A RAZOR EDGE

In general, most of the commercially available knives today come in one of three types of grind patterns; (a) hollow grind, (b) "V" grind, or (c) chisel grind. This applies to hunting knives, camp knives, fighting knives, kitchen knives, etc. Regardless of which type of blade grind you have, the serrations that are ground onto each particular blade will be sharpened in generally the same manner. Defining the Burr - Visually, a well formed burr will look like, and have the properties of, a small piece of aluminum foil. It is formed as the metal that lies against the sharpener becomes so thin and pliable that the sharpener will no longer cut it off. The burr just "flops over" to the other side as you switch sides of the blade being sharpened. This scenario happens when sharpening the straight edge of a dual-sided knife edge. When sharpening a single-sided knife edge such as serrations or a chisel ground blade, the correct process is to form a burr along the back side of the blade, then use the sharpener to actually cut off the burr. More specifically, you can think of the cutting edge of the blade as the metal that is directly underneath the burr. In other words, the cutting edge of the blade is being formed as a correctly formed burr is being removed. This is the most important concept in sharpening. As you are sharpening the serration, a burr will be formed along the entire back side of the area being sharpened. When the sharpening of a serrated edge is sufficient, a uniform and consistent burr can be felt on the entire back side of this area. In other words, a burr will be formed that is always turned up from the side that lies against the sharpener. Discussed below is how to correctly form a burr on a serrated edge and then correctly remove it. Please keep in mind that serrations are sharpened in generally the same manner as a chisel, scissors, or a knife with a chisel ground blade - from one side only. BY HAND: Sharpening by hand is more difficult than with a sharpening system. Most importantly, you must religiously follow the manufacturers original angle of the serration grind. Each manufacturer has invested considerable research and development (time and money) into determining an exact serration angle for each particular knife blade. Changing this angle will decrease the cutting ability of the serration. Also of importance is to ONLY SHARPEN the SERRATED SIDE! NEVER try to sharpen the back side of the

serration. If you do, you will also be reducing the cutting ability of the serration by (a) increasing the overall angle of the edge, and (b) turning the burr back into the serrated side of the blade thereby rounding the edge. Step 1 Use a round/course/aggressive sharpener (such as the EZE-LAP model M, or Gerber diamond sharpener) to sharpen the major scallops until you feel a burr running evenly along the opposite side of the serrated edge. Use an up-and-down motion by moving the sharpener from the top of the knife blade down to the knife edge, then back up again. Try and maintain the same angle by following the original serration grind. One way to help you do this is by using a felt marker or "whiteboard" marker. The whiteboard marker ink will easily wipe off and not stain the blade.. Mark all of the serration scallops completely. The ink will then be abraded away entirely by the sharpener when sharpening correctly. Done correctly, you can maintain the same angle. Make sure to sharpen the entire width of the scallop. Next, use a smaller diameter sharpener (such as the EZE-LAP model S, or EZE-LAP diamond files) to sharpen the minor scallops until you feel a burr running evenly along the opposite side of the blade edge. For the standard or "innie" serration pattern, sharpen the same as you would the major serrations. For the reverse serrations, use diamond files to sharpen in between the minor serrations. If the tips of either serrations are damaged or dull, touch these up in the same manner you would to sharpen or touch up a straight knife edge. Again, continue until you feel a burr along the back side of the blade. Once complete, turn the knife over and hold the sharpening rod flat against this back side. Lightly "wipe" the sharpener back-and-forth (normally 2 to three passes should be adequate), removing only the turned up part of the burr. Step 2 Use a round/fine/nonaggressive sharpener, such as an ultra-fine diamond or ceramic (aluminum-oxide, or silicon-carbide) to sharpen the major scallops until you feel a burr running evenly along the opposite side of the serrated edge. Use a unidirectional stroke that only pushes the sharpener into the serration, starting from the knife edge up to the spine. As before, try and maintain the same angle by following the original serration grind. Next, sharpen the minor scallops and turn the knife over and "de-burr", as described in step 1. This second step is to be done at a very light pressure, and is intended to be more of a polishing step. If

required, touch up the tips as before. After following these steps you should have a razor sharp edge on your serrated blade. BY SHARPENING SYSTEM: Many sharpening systems exist today, from ones which use a knife clamp and honing guide to the ever popular "V" type. When using these systems, refer to the "how to" manual supplied with that specific system. There are both positives and negatives associated with the use of these systems when sharpening serrations. Some of the positives are that most systems are easy to use, have safety features designed in, and do a fairly good job in sharpening. The negatives are that while some are fairly expensive, others will require you to sharpen both sides of the serrations. As discussed before, sharpening both sides is not recommended. If you do want to invest in a sharpening system, I would recommend that you purchase one which, at a minimum, allows you to follow the original grind of the serration and then "flat wipe" the back side of the blade. MAINTENANCE: To tune-up serrations which have been subjected to normal wear and tear, try softly flat-wiping the back side of the blade with your sharpener. Normally, this is enough to maintain a razor edge. If this does not work, try using the fine/nonaggressive sharpener to touch up the serrations. Then again, wipe the back side. Also, touch-up the tips. If the serrations have been abused, you will need to resharpen them in the manner(s) described above. CONCLUSION: Which sharpening method do I recommend? I recommend you use the one that you are familiar with (either by hand or by system) and you get good results. I use and prefer sharpening by hand, with a diamond coated rod. This brings me to one last important point - the long term effects on a serrated knife blade resulting from many hundreds of sharpenings. Consider three blades: (A) new knife which is used as a reference blade, (B) results of many hundreds of sharpenings by hand as described above, and (C) results of many hundreds of sharpenings by popular "V" systems. Why would blades B and C look so different? In the case of blade B, each time you sharpen the entire "scallop", you are removing material along the entire surface area of the scallop. In other words, you are not only removing material at

the cutting edge, but also at the top of the scallop. As you sharpen over-and-over again, the size of the scallop is basically maintained. With "V" type systems (and other types which do not allow you to sharpen the entire scallop), the "V" sticks initially only come into contact with the serrated knife edge. After some of the edge is abraded away, the "V" sticks then come into contact with the entire scallop. Depending on the angle of the serration that the knife manufacturer has placed on the blade, and depending on the angle of the "V" sticks, abrasion can be mild to extreme. Blade C would show that if you keep removing material from the knife edge, you will eventually abrade away much of the serration. Also remember that sharpening the back side of the serrated blade (with the "V" systems) helps to abrade away the serration. Another drawback to these "V" systems is that they will abrade away the minor scallops of a reverse-serration blade. This is why I prefer sharpening by hand. In closing, when sharpening, use a fine pressure on the serration by letting the sharpener do most of the work. In other words, do not use a lot of physical force because you can actually bend the edge of the serration over and get a false indication of a burr. What you are really trying to achieve is a correctly formed uniform and consistent burr. This means that you will want to invest in a high quality, fairly aggressive media such as diamond, and for the second pass a high quality ceramic. Secondly, take your time to do a good job. A rushed job will not only achieve an edge that is not as sharp, but more importantly, a rushed job increases the probability of you getting cut. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------