This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?
Give your kids plenty of outdoor fun with this free tree house plan! Every kid would love a backyard tree house, so you get to be the hero!
This particular wood plan shows you how to building a tree house for your backyard. Please enjoy this nice set of free wood plans! Please make sure you check out our custom shed plans in our shed plans package before you leave our site and see if they meet your needs as well. Our shed plans package has thousands of wood plans just like this, not just shed plans! We also have a great set of Jungle Gym plans for your backyard. If you don't want to build a tree house, how about a kids Jungle Gym? They are all available for immediate download!
Do your kids want to live it up? Here’s how to get your tree house project off the ground! When I was kid. I could have located the treehouse on top of good old Canadian Shield granite. this is enough wood to build the treehouse. see the table on the right. 5⁄16" washers 16 3⁄8" washers and nuts 49 Support structure and deck 1⁄2" washers and nuts 1 MATERIAL CUT TO QTY. below. one of the treehouse’s satisfied tenants along with his sister Leah. we didn’t worry much about our own safety. a versatile and inherently stable structure. The treehouse is freestanding. If you’ve already built our outhouse plans. SIZE LENGTH QTY. especially if you get the kids involved in planning and customizing it. We spent endless hours in them.3⁄8" x 8" carriage bolts 4 dipped galvanized or stainless steel) intended for 1⁄2" x 14" carriage bolt 1 contact with it. Back then.” he said as he inspected the finished product. but it’s fun. there’s nothing as rewarding as kudos from Douglas (pictured playing chess). growing up in the wilds just outside of North Bay. “Wow. like all children. there’s no need to sink the posts into the ground. In fact. But I designed this project with safety. so you can build it anywhere. It’s supported by a triangular framework. 2 x 8 joist hangers 8 Centre post 4 x 4 PT 8' 1 Joist hanger nails 3⁄4 lb Front legs 4 x 4 PT 12' 2 51⁄2" zinc-plated door pulls 2 Back legs 4 x 4 PT 8' 2 Clothesline reel 1 Leg crossbars 4 x 4 PT 12' 2 Safety snap 1 Header joists 2 x 8 PT 8' 2 Threaded 3⁄8" hook 1 Deck joists 2 x 8 PT 9'9" 6 Small dock cleat 1 Pulley arm 4 x 4 PT 24" 1 1⁄4" rope 25' Pulley brace 4 x 4 PT 18" 1 Railing posts 2 x 4 PT 43" 8 Side cross braces 2 x 6 PT 12' 4 Back cross braces 2 x 4 PT 10' 2 Deck boards 5⁄4 x 6 PT 8' 25 Bridging 2 x 8 PT 1711⁄16 6 Ladder stringers 2 x 4 PT 8' 2 Ladder rungs 2 x 6 PT 2' x 23⁄4" 6 Handrails 2 x 4 PT 34" 2 2 x 4 PT 8'4" 2 Balusters PT precut 42" 401⁄2" 40 Lumber shopping list With careful layout and cutting. And for me. we didn’t think our treehouses might damage living trees and. even where there are no suitable trees. Always use hardware (hot. and tree health in mind. it gave us a sense of independence and adventure. you’ll recognize many of the techniques here. This is a bigger project. we always had a treehouse – rather rickety affairs that we built ourselves. this is so cool. #8 x 2" deck screws 31⁄2 lbs #8 x 3" deck screws 4 lbs Dock-style corner brackets 4 (Kwikdox model KD90-CN) 5⁄16" x 4" lag bolts 16 3⁄8" x 4" carriage bolts 30 Newer pressure-treated wood corrodes and 3⁄8" x 6" carriage bolts 15 weakens some metals. stability. “This must be the best treehouse on the lake. elevated as we were above the world (even if it was just a few meters up).” Materials For a shopping list you can take to the lumberyard. Pressure Treated 2 x4 8' Spruce 2 x4 10' 2 x4 2 x6 2 x6 2x8 2 x8 4 x4 4 x4 12' 8' 12' 8' 10' 8' 12' 6 2 2 1 4 2 7 2 5 25 40 25 8 4 2 1 4 2 5⁄4 x 6 8' Pressure Treated 2 x2 42" Precut balusters Untreated Spruce 2 x3 8' 2 x4 10' Spruce strapping 1 x3 10' Pine 1 x2 8' 1 x2 1 x3 1 x3 10' 8' 10' . PT Pressure-treated spruce UT Untreated spruce SPS Spruce strapping T&G #4 pine tongue-and-groove Support-structure hardware QTY.
1⁄2" 2 plywood 2 x 3 UT 2 x 3 UT 1 x 4 pine 1 x 2 pine 2 x 3 UT 2 x 3 UT 2 x 3 UT 173⁄4" 2 x 3 UT 531⁄4" 2 x 3 UT 183⁄4" 2 x 3 UT 62"* 1 x 3 SPS 8' 1 x 6 300' 1 x 2 pine 1 x 3 pine 1⁄4" G1S plywood 48" 54" 24" Side ledgers 253⁄4" 4 Back ledgers 58" 2 Rails 61" 2 Support strips 61" 2 Ladder stringers 4' 2 Ladder rungs 12" 4 House hardware QTY. Shingles 3 bundles 7⁄ 8" roofing nails 3⁄4 lb 11⁄4" ring nails 3⁄4 lb #8 x 11⁄4" wood screws 100 2" finishing nails 2 lbs 4" strap hinges 2 3" butt hinges 2 2" butt hinges 4 Spring hinges 2 21⁄2" barrel bolt 1 43⁄4" door pulls 3 Screen door catch 1 Foam weatherstripping 12' Door sweep 1 Fibreglass screening 3' x 3' Outdoor glue . Side walls Top and 2 x 3 UT bottom plates Studs 2 x 3 UT Window sills 2 x 3 UT and headers Temporary brace 1 x 3 SPS Back wall Top and bottom plates Studs Temporary brace Front wall Bottom plates Studs Girts Header Temporary brace Cladding Siding pine cove Corner trim Flooring pces 2 x 3 UT 2 x 3 UT 1 x 3 SPS CUT TO 90" 45" 161⁄2" 8' 61" 45" 8' Roof MATERIAL CUT TO CUT TO Bases 61" x QTY.1 x4 1 x4 1 x6 10' 12' 8' 1 1 1 1 x6 10' 5 Pine cove 1 x6 300' Pine tongue and 1 x6 10' 2 groove Pine door stop 12' #4 roof boards 1x 10 150' 1⁄4" G1S plywood 4' x 8' 1 1⁄4" G1S plywood 4' x 4' 1 1/2" spruce plywood 4' x 8' 1 House MATERIAL QTY. Rafters 2 x 4 UT 57" 16 4 Ridge board 1 x 6 pine 8'4" 1 Back gable 2 x 3 UT 30" 1 12 studs 2 x 3 UT 16" 2 4 Front gable 2 x 3 UT 24" 1 stud 2 Roof boards 1 x 10 #4 pine 150' Side fascia 1 x 6 pine 8'6" 2 2 End fascia 1 x 6 pine 58" 4 Collar ties 2 x 3 pine 32" 2 3 Window frames 1 Top and bottom 1 x 3 pine 161⁄2" 4 Sides 1 x 3 pine 121⁄2" 4 2 Window side trim 1 x 3 pine 121⁄2" 4 2 Window 1 x 4 pine 21" 2 4 bottom trim 1 Window top trim 1 x 6 pine 22" 2 1 Door frame Side jambs 1 x 4 pine 54" 2 Head jamb 1 x 4 pine 251⁄2" 1 Door side trim 1 x 3 pine 54" 2 Door top trim 1 x 6 pine 31" 1 4 Door stop pine trim 12' 4 Door 11⁄2 Outer frame rails 1 x 3 pine 181⁄2" 4 Outer frame stiles 1 x 3 pine 263⁄4" 4 Inner frame rails 1 x 2 pine 231⁄2" 4 Inner frame stiles 1 x 2 pine 233⁄4" 4 Door panel pieces 1 x 6 T&G 233⁄4" 8 Owl door rails 1 x 3 pine 123⁄8"x 1" 4 and stiles Owl door panels 1 x 6 T&G 12" 2 Bunk beds MATERIAL QTY.
Chamfer the crossbar ends: Mark a line 1" from the ends on all four sides. Lay the crossbar on top of the legs. Cut bolt ends off and file smooth. as in Figure 4. pointy ends.The Support Framework 1. Position pieces so the hump of the curve points up. check regularly that your assembly is square. front and back. using two 3⁄8" x 6" carriage bolts in predrilled 3⁄8" holes. As you work. Start with the front assembly. Strategically placed foam. Tip: Prevent scrapes and barked shins by rounding off any sharp. with a few 3" screws. Tip: Sight down any structural pieces that aren’t vertical – including crossbars. Clamp in place. The spreading triangular frames. gravity will work to straighten it out. or curve. can also help avoid bumps and bruises. give the treehouse a large. such as camping pads and foam pipe wrap. soften protruding wood corners by chamfering or rounding. and with a circular saw blade set to a 45° angle. 2] Cut one end of each front leg at a 30° angle. bolting the centre post to the middle of one header joist. clamp the legs to the header joist and. joists. Drill 3⁄8" holes where shown (six in all for the header and crossbar) and secure with 6" and 8" bolts. legs. Working flat on the ground. temporarily secure their angled ends to the centre post. . and rafters – and look for any crown. just finger-tight for now. bevel the edges. stable footprint and help prevent racking.
if both diagonal corner-to-corner .3] Drill a 1⁄2" hole through the legs and centre post. because you’ll have several heavy pieces propped up with temporary braces. with three differences: There’s no centre post. you’ll likely have to dig in. Work carefully. 6] Now let the fun begin! You’ll need a helper or two for a few hours to get the frame assembly up. Tighten all bolts and cut and file all exposed threaded ends. On the ground. or trim. To get the deck to the right height. 5] Cut the deck joists (six 9'9" joists). square. and nut. The deck surface cannot be higher than 71" above grade. for the 1⁄2" x 14" bolt (substitute threaded rod if you can’t find a long bolt). near the thickest part of this joint. and the back legs are stiffened with two diagonal cross braces. and the correct height above the ground. Chisel a neat pocket at both ends of the hole for the bolt head. you should check yours). so you’ll need an extra-long bit or a bit extender. plumb. 4] Assemble the back frame. one or more legs. mark a 12' x 10'8" rectangle. It mirrors the front assembly. which you’ll add later. A fairly level site will make this job easier. You’ll be drilling through about 12" of wood. washer. This will show approximately where the ends of the legs sit. the legs don’t extend above the header joist. or the railing must be 42" high instead of 36" (according to the most local building codes. Measure diagonals to check your layout is square. level.
measurements are the same. remove and trim. Tip: Newer pressure-treated . and then tack back in place with 3" screws. then trim or dig in the second assembly. with washer. Double-check that everything is square. After a few more adjustments. and to the correct height. level. or a water level. Drill two 5⁄16" holes through each end of the braces and about 1" into each leg. If not. You can do this with a long straight board and a carpenter’s level. and brace it so it is more or less plumb. plumb. Clamp them in position to mark the excess. in position. the basic supports will be in place. check for level. it’s square. stand the other frame assembly up. a line level. in position. 9] Once that’s done. 10] Screw two deck joists (with 3" deck screws) between the front and back header joists. Drill two 3⁄8" holes where the braces intersect and secure with 4" carriage bolts. stand the corresponding assembly up. into each hole and tighten. Hammer a 4" lag bolt. 7] You’ll need to determine which of the four leg positions is lowest. trim or dig in the legs to suit. 11] Attach the diagonal side cross braces to the legs to help strengthen and stabilize them (see Figure 4). Place a straight board from one header joist to the other. and perhaps a few expletives. and brace again for plumb. Check that the header joist is level and the right height from the ground (71" less the thickness of the deck boards). one at each end. 8] Starting at this lowest leg.
or the hardware could fail prematurely. Free Tree House Wood Plans (Right Click on Image. Electroplated or Grade 2 steel just won’t do. or fasteners recommended by the manufacturer.teel hardware. called Alkaline Copper Quaternary (ACQ) and Copper Azole (CA). Check labels when you buy.wood. and Select View as Image or Save As to See the FULL SIZE Picture) . so you must use hot-dipped galvanized or stainless. is more corrosive to metal.
ninth. Likewise. drill 3⁄8" holes and install with the 3⁄8" x 4" carriage bolts.c. both sides will be supported. the kind commonly used in dock building. The next three boards need to be cut to leave a space for the trap door (see Figure 5). to attach joist hangers to the front and rear header joists at 19-3⁄16" on centre (o. bolted to the inside face (see Figure 3). Tip: For screws going into the ends of the deck boards. Making sure the posts are plumb. which is 193⁄16" wide. and tenth boards to leave an opening for the secret hidey-hole. screw through the header joists into the deck joists with 3" deck screws. Mark these cuts to line up with the joist centers. Starting at the back. . cut the eighth.). Temporarily screw one across the middle of the deck framework to hold each joist in place.Filling in the deck 1] Now reinforce each deck corner with a metal bracket. drill clearance holes first to prevent splitting. so when the trap door is closed. 3] Cut the deck boards to 96". five of the railing posts are bolted with the headers or joists through these brackets. Slide the deck joists down into the hangers. 2] Use joist hanger nails. not deck screws. and nail the hangers. nail or screw (with 2" hardware) the first deck board flush to the edge. For extra strength.
fitting between the two railing posts (see Figures 15 and 16). At this point. at bottom through the legs. note that a piece of bridging forms the front of the box for the hidey-hole. Add the ladder and pulley 1] For the ladder rungs. cut the stringer flush with the railing post. Secure the braces with 3⁄8" x 4" carriage bolts at their intersection. trimming off any excess length. Use two 5⁄16" x 8" lag bolts to secure the horizontal piece to the centre post and four 5⁄16" x 4" lag bolts to attach the support piece. about 25' of rope with a snap. screw the first rung to the stringers with four 3" screws.4] When you reach halfway. Screw pieces of 2 x 2 around the inside bottom edges of the hidey-hole to make a ledge. On the right side of the ladder. on the left side. You can adjust this distance so the last rung is high enough to help keep very young children off the structure. . Screw the ladder stringers into the deck joist. Add the other rungs 24" apart. this minimizes the trip factor. attached to the railing posts. Secure the remaining deck boards to the joists. One brace has its end bolted through the 2 x 4 railing post as well as the header joist. Screw two rungs to the stringers to square the ladder up. and a cleat to tie the rope off. cut the 2 x 8 bridging pieces to fit between the joists. I ripped pressure treated 2 x 6s in half to 2-3⁄4". and at top through the header joist. screw through the railing post into the stringer. and an extra bridging piece forms the back. Two door pulls. a clothesline pulley. again. requiring a 6" bolt. Ensure its top edge is flush with the deck surface to avoid a tripping hazard. Starting from the top. then screw down 1⁄2" plywood for the bottom. 5] Attach the 2 x 4 cross braces to the back legs. Add a 3⁄8" threaded hook. you will likely have to rip the last one to fit. 2] Cut the pieces for the optional pulley structure and drill 5⁄16" holes for the bolts. Position it at the same angle as the legs. make climbing easier. remove the temporary brace.
flush to the back edge and tight to the bottom plate of the side wall. Bring one wall up and screw the bottom plate to the deck. 1] On the ground. For safety. If it’s windy. assemble the side wall framing as shown in Figure 8. Toenail . you might have to brace it to the floor. which consists of a top and bottom plate and three inside studs. Bring up the other side wall and screw it to the deck. The untreated 2 x 3 lumber that frames the house is usually sold only in 8' lengths. and watch your step. the front and back wall share corner studs with the sides. Carry the back wall assembly up onto the deck and screw the bottom plate to the deck.The wee house To give myself room to work on the deck. temporarily clamp some boards in place as railings. Temporarily attach a piece of 1 x 3 spruce strapping as a diagonal brace across the inside of each wall to keep it square. I installed the handrails and balusters after I finished building and shingling the house. 2] Assemble the back wall. flush to the outside and back edges. so it requires some careful layout work to minimize waste. You’ll note there aren’t studs on the ends of this wall. being careful to keep it parallel to the other side wall.
to the ends of the roof boards and to the ridge board. Remove all the braces. and tack them up again. 9] Notch the front wall header to fit around the rafters. These notches include extra width so they fit over the siding. position the rafters on one side and screw or nail in from the opposite side (naturally. Cut the four end fascia pieces at 45° and temporarily nail in place. Tack this course in place to mark the notches. 10] Beginning at the roof ’s leading edge. leaving openings for the windows. Finish fastening the rafters to the top plate with two additional screws for each rafter. Remove. cut. The roof is 8'6" long. 13] Shingle the roof. Position one of the rafters in a siding notch. 5] Proceed in the same manner with the side walls. girts. Cut studs. mark where the side fascia meets the end fascia. notching the outside ends of the horizontal girts to wrap around the side-wall studs (see Figure 8). since you’ll need to rip them to match the height of the rafters. 12 have bird’s mouth notches while four. Finish siding the back wall. You’ll have to rip the top course on each side to butt over the ridge.(or screw) the back wall top plate to the top plates of the side walls. Mark the siding at the top edge of the rafters. 14] The door jamb is 1 x 4 pine – nail the pieces to the door studs and header. Start at the bottom of the back wall and work up until you are one piece short of the top plates (use 2" finishing nails). I turned the two short studs 90° so they’re flush with the back of the building. so lay the boards out carefully to minimize waste. shimming if necessary so the jamb is plumb and level. To avoid scraped scalps when kids are tearing around the corner of the deck. round off that corner of the fascia. Check that the rafters are plumb and attach a brace across one side of the roof to stabilize it. I also used 7⁄8" roofing nails because they don’t stick through the roof boards. 12] Cut the side fascia boards and nail to the rafter tails. 4] I selected 1 x 6 pine cove siding for the walls. for the gable ends. Remember to round the corner of the shingle near the ladder. Slide the ridge board up between the rafters. 8] Add 2 x 3 studs to fill in the gable end of the back wall as in Figure 8. you’ll have to shift one set of rafters out of the way). The door trim is 1 x 3. Nail this last course of siding in place. nail or screw 1 x 10 rough-sawn pine boards to the rafters. 3] The front is assembled without the header or the gable stud (both will be added once the rafters are in place). their sides line up with the side-wall studs and the bottoms align with the top plates. Don’t worry about any gable studs for now. Move the remaining rafters into place and toenail from the opposite side. into the top plate. To avoid complex notching to fit them around the rafters. Position each rafter in a notch cut in the siding and over a sidewall stud. and the wall is stable. I didn’t use metal eave starter because I was concerned that the sharp edges might prove to be a hazard. the roof boards will seal snugly with the siding. 6] Cut the rafters as in Figure 7. Remove the end fascia and cut to length. This unusual detail makes it easier to nestle the siding in tight to the roof and keep out bugs. at the same time trimming the sharp bottom corner flush with the side fascia. Attach a temporary brace to the inside of the back wall to keep the side walls plumb. remove and rip the last course of siding. . which is fashioned out of a piece of 1 x 6. don’t. except for the piece above the door. and bottom plates to length. Screw the pieces together and carry both halves of the wall up onto the deck and screw in place. The last course of siding on each side is notched to accept the rafters (see Figure 9). Add the gable stud and finish siding the front. Screw it to both the door frame studs and to the rafters. With this cut. Add braces to the inside so that the two front studs are plumb and aligned. secure each with a 3" screw through the narrowest part of the bird’s mouth. 11] Screw the remaining four rafters. 7] Lay out the locations for the rafters on the ridge board. the ones with no bird’s mouth.
. Staple screens to the frames and add trim.15] Install window frames as you did the door jambs. 1 x 2s on the sides). 16] Add corner trim to the house (1 x 3s on the front and back. although it’s not critical that they’re plumb and level.
Inside the house 1] Inside the building. Code dictates that the balusters cannot be more than 4" apart. or whatever suits your kids. screw or nail to the joist face and the bottom of the handrails. Since kids don’t want just anyone accessing their secrets. 2] I built two bunks inside. notching as needed to fit around the front leg assembly and the corners of the house. Nail the plywood pieces on top. The measurements in the cutting list are approximate. Door pulls on the two railing posts above the ladder will give kids something to grab as they’re climbing up or down. Screw two 1 x 2 scraps to the bottom of the three short pieces of deck board that make up the lids. 3] Now install some simple safety features. and pound on everything. especially those on either side of the ladder. so it needs to be strong. persistent fingers. I decided not to give away the hidey-hole’s location with a pull for its lid. so be sure it’s strong and secure. hooked in to eye bolts and positioned across these railing posts will help prevent falls. they’ll jump. I installed 1⁄4 " plywood (with 11⁄4 " ring nails ) over the deck boards to keep the darned bugs out. hang. to pry it open. or something similar. benches. Tip: Don’t skimp on hardware or use undersized lumber. Remember that kids will lean against the chain. but you could easily install a table. shelves. cutting off one angled end to butt to the handrails. It needs small. add a door pull to ease opening. Round any sharp exposed corners. The bunks are really just 24"-deep shelves of 1⁄2" plywood. Cut holes for the trap door and the hidey hole.Railings 1] Screw the handrails to the railing posts. swing. 2] For convenience I used precut deck balusters. Kids are the ultimate product testers. final measurements will depend on whether you choose to miter or butt the corners. a distance that prevents kids’ heads getting stuck between. The trap door is fastened with 4" strap hinges to the floor. A safety chain with a snap. installed 20" and 40" .
They’re supported on the sides and back with 2 x 3 ledgers. . I ripped some leftover trim pieces to a width of 1" for this. This can get tricky. 3] Make the frame for the owl doors. 2] With the last tongue planed off. and finished on the front with a simple lip (see Figure 10). Fasten with 11⁄4" ring nails. because all four hinge pins. 6] Nail doorstop to the jamb so the door closes flush with the trim. A scrap of wood screwed to the frame forms a simple pivoting latch. but also more complicated to construct than a full door. The outer frame of both halves consists of 1 x 3. Remember to staple some screening under the frame before you secure it. peepholes for the kids – and mount these doors to the frame with four 2" hinges.above the floor. as in Figure 14. If everything works. until the kids start asking for a lookout tower. Add a spring-loaded screen door catch and you’re done! Done. using one screw each for now (I substituted #8 x 11⁄4" screws for the dinky ones in the package). I mortised the butt hinges into the door’s edge. Locate the top half in the opening and attach the hinges (again. If you prefer. I added foam weather stripping and a door sweep. so if you leave them out. Enlarge the owl template (Figure 11) to 11" high with a photocopier. such as biscuits or pocket-hole joints. A helper is a definite asset here. Locate this half in the door opening and screw the spring hinges in place. that is. The bunks help stabilize the walls. four 1 x 6 tongue-and-groove pieces fit almost perfectly in these frames. Drill two 1" holes – eyes for the owl. If you like this free set of wood plans. so the inside of the frame measures 123⁄8" x 103⁄8". 4] Two 12" pieces of 1 x 6 tongue-and-groove – tongues planed off – serve well as inside owl doors. Screw 43⁄4" door pulls to both the inside and outside of the top half of the door. top and bottom. Position the ladder near the centre of the bunk so its stringers also act as a safety barrier (if small children sleep up top. Centre the owl on the upper half and cut out with your jigsaw. The door 1] I opted for a dutch door for the playhouse – more fun. you should check out the plans we charge for! Please make sure you check out ourshed plans in our shed plans package before you leave our site and see if they meet your needs! Our shed plans package has thousands of plans like this included in an easy to print PDF format. A short ladder. Position the 3" butt hinges on the top half. For extra bug proofing. Add a barrel bolt to the doors and check the doors’ operation again. or by hand. with 1 x 2 inner frames glued and screwed to them (11⁄4 " screws). provides support and access. one screw for now). add a full-length guardrail). Be sure both doors swing properly. 5] Attach spring hinges – surface mounted – to the bottom half of the door. finish screwing the hinges to the frames. built of 2 x 3s. you can use other joinery options here. add a collar tie or two. must align or the door won’t close smoothly.
This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?
We've moved you to where you read on your other device.
Get the full title to continue reading from where you left off, or restart the preview.