Class.
Book_
.^Zl^p.
CoffyrightN"
COPYRFCKT DEPOSIT.
INCE
I
fc^Ji^
'
II
desired to
of this fact.
One
able offering
many
proposi
decided upon the free distribution to our customers of "The Parisian Ladies' Teuloring System," which enables every one to take measurements, make designs, cut her own patterns,
at last
fit
we have
and make
for
herself
or for
her family,
or for
Outer Garment,
styles.
in
our sincere hope that this book will be welinvaluable in every household, and that it will be a guide and boon to the great masses of our
It
is
come and
patrons.
The
Excelsior
or
And
A MEANS OF SELF EDUCATION AND A GUIDE FOR EDUCATIONAL INSTRUCTION IN TRADE SCHOOLS AND DOMESTIC SCIENCE INSTITUTIONS
ith
in Text, including
Four Supplementary
22x28
<.
Z.
ZEISLER
Copyrighted 1917
by
A. Z. Zeisler
\o
^\ ^
%"<
Page
V.
Contents
Page
Testimonials Charts
2
3
(Continued)
figure
flat
Bddy measurements;
and
2
Figs.
and
4
....
2(1
Tlu' iiieasurenients
and their
>
shoulders
ligure
27
order
with
sloping
Measurements width
ol"
lengtli
and
.') ,")
shoulders
Remarks on measurements
...
. .
28
29 30
31
How
to
talve
tlie
measure(i (i
Around
llie
Length of slujuhler
.... .... haek .... .... waist ... .... shoulder ... .... .... .... .... neck ....
front front
. . . .
.
VH.
fi
Constructing
the
upper and
under sleeve
under sleeve
.... ....
in
32
7 7
YITI.
the
35
the
7
7 7 7 7
IX.
....
and
38
38
X.
'file
shirtwaist in
its
different
S
S
forms
XT.
XII.
Collar construction
...
46
S S
Pockets
Culls and sleeves
'file
50
...
of of
XIII.
8
....
....
and
50 52
XIV.
'.I
Preparing width
III.
"J'he
the
scale
XV.
9
50
XVI.
Id
Changing
IV.
Remarks
the
hefoie remeasiuing fundamental iialtern Remeasiuing the measures of width Renieasuring the measures
2(1
back
XVII.
,\rraiiging
suits,
CI
the
.jackets
pattern
21
and
for outer 64
garments
22
of length
XVIII.
Adaption of the normal pattern for changed ligures The forward bent ligure
. .
06
23
2.'!
XIX.
'file
21
82
and
flat
chest
....
XX.
2.^
For
])rofe;;sional
"The Grading"
end of book:
....
designers:
85
Tables
I.
I,
II, III,
IV, folded at
II.
III.
and
IV.
i\\
,\^
\^
JAN 10 tyi8
\,\n
Preface
VERY
as
at least as perfectly
gowned
the the
of
correct
gowning
lies in
correct
of the
garment
to
the individual
figure
wearer.
We
to season, but
know that the styles change frequently from season we must bear in mind that the underlying principle is
" "
the
"Fundamental Pattern
this,
have
we
and after ^ve the socalled "Basque, are able to execute any desired style according varia
tions in vogue.
Many of our Cutting Academies, however, which still cling to "Old Worn Out System" make a number of body measurements the basis of their instructions and graduate their pupils with a stock of stereotyped patterns in hand, and numerous sets of figures in mind, of which memory soon makes a jumble. Some of our tailors and dressmakers in consequence make the sad mistake of attempting to use one pattern for all figures, without discrimination. They reason that all that is needed is a little "taking
in,
it
"
or a
"little letting
in
order to
make
actual
conform
As
soon convinces them of the incorrectness of their w^ork, and of the impossibility of fitting individual figures in this fashion, they are
trial
their time and labor in making neceswear out the patience of their patrons, and in the end they turn out garments which are seldom perfect fitting, comfortable and chic. For several years there has been a widespread demand for
some rational course in Pattern Designing. The author, through long years of experience in foreign countries, and for years in Nev^f York with one of the largest wholesale houses as designer and pattern cutter in ladies' w^earing apparel of all descriptions, has planned this book to serve as a basis for such a course. At the same time its careful omission of all technical expressions, and its plain, simple
language cannot fail to recommend it as "A SELF INSTRUCTOR" to home dressmakers who desire well fitting clothes. In pattern designing there are three important considerations to bear in mind: 1) That all figures are fundamentally similar.
2)
3)
That
styles
vary with the seasons. Hence the author has sought to explain
first,
the
making of a
FUNDAMENTAL PATTERN,
and
style that
It
and secondly,
all
changes of form
can be
made by
who
book will be a boon to those give instruction in dressmaking courses, to thousands who have chosen dressmaking as a profession, and also to the home dressis
maker.
A. Z.
Zeisler.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Testimonials
From
Louis Grancr
it
&
Co.. Cloaks,
:
St..
New York,
N. Y.
To \vhoni
I
may
concern
own garments.
LOUIS GRANER.
Ji/^^.
^^^.^
From
L. Adler,
Manufacturer of Furs,
39 St.
Marks
Place,
NcAv York, N. Y.
To Mr. A.
Z. Zeisler
I
At your request
ing i^atterns for
my
made
fit
ex
fir.st.
Therefore
relations,
I,
as well as
my
Inisiness
are
thoroughly
pleased
^,^.
L.
ADLER.
Mr. A.
Clevelaiul, Ohio.
At present
in Cleveland.
Dear Professor The luulersigned, a committee of your pupils, beg leave to hand you herewith a medal as an inadequate mark of our highest respect and our sineerest appreciation of you as our teacher. AVe shall ever remember the most valuable course we went through, aided by your unerring guidance and your lucid explanaWell may Ave congratulate ourselves to have found tion of the Tailor Sy.stem. your method so plain and instructive that after attending your course but for fourteen evening lessons,
ladies' dresses
we
are
now
fully enabled to
make
all
and cloak branch, and to grade them most accurately, in a way surpassing all that was known heretofore. the All of which we beg to otTer in the name and as the true sentiment of
pupils of your evening course.
Very Respectfidly,
THE COMMITTEE.
Adolf Barber,
J.
Goodman,
C.
Goodman.
PARISIAN
LADIES
TAILORING SYSTEM
Charts
(At end of volume.)
TABLE
The
The
Scales of Length and
Width
in
Original Size
from
The scales of width divided into eighteen (IS) equal parts from a 30incIi (1.5ineli lialf measurement) to 4Sinch (24inch half measurement) around the bust.
TABLE
II
A
A
Full Sized
full
Fundamental Pattern
of
sized 86 figure
sleeves,
with a scale of
construction lines,
fundamental pattern of basque and width and length measurements and showing how they are made.
all
TABLE
The grading
of
III
upper and under sleeves, in full, from a 36 figure down to 30, and up to 48, giving a tabulation of all the necessary measurements.
Table IV
The proper grading of front, back, and side parts in full. from a 36 figure down to a 30, and up to a 48 bust measure, accompanied by a chart giving all required measurements, and also showing the construction of the seamed front made from a loose
one.
Around the Bust. Length of Back. Width of Back, Length of Sides. Around the Waist,
*
11.
li;.
Length of Front.
Lengtii of Slioulder.
*13.
14.
Around
tlie
Necli.
Height of Front.
(*).
Record Onehalf of
all
Measurements Marked
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
12)
The measurements are very important. Their chief purpose is to give a thorough knowledge of the build of the body for whioh tlie garment is to be made, and by their means we are enabled to make our pattern correctly and easily for the
model.
The diagrams. Fig 1 2, show in which way and in what order the measurements are to be taken. After some practice and experience we will be able to produce any style of garment to correspond to these given measurements.
In the
making
and
all
outer garments,
we need
the
Around
the bust
6. 7.
*3.
4.
11.
12.
''lo.
14.
Length of front Length of shoulder Around the neck Length of inider arm
Circumference of arm
*5.
Around
the waist
15.
2)
we
notice
that
all
our
measurements
are
The Measurements
4. 7.
of
Length Are:
12.
Length of back 10. Height of front Length of sides 11. Length of front Height of shoulder All length measurements are to be recorded
6.
IL
in full.
The Measurements
*1.
of
Width Are:
*9.
'^IS.
*3.
*5. *8.
Around Around
the
Remarks on Measurements
In oi'der not to omit any measurements and to avoid mistakes, it is advisable to take a strip of paper numbered and marked with the 15 measurements in order. This Avill be of great help to the beginner.
All of the examples given in this a length of back of 15 inches.
Figs. 1 2 show that in taking the measurements the model, measuring, namely:
*1.
2.
we begin from
6.
the back of
Around
the bust
4.
Length of
sides
Size of
arm
hole
*3.
*5.
Around
the waist
7.
Height of shoulder
Measurements Marked
(*).
PARISIAN
Tliis
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
shown
in Fig. 1
done,
we proceed from
11.
12.
and measure
*8. *9.
10.
*13.
14. 15.
How
to
Take
the
Measurements
12)
back of 15 inches.
(See Fig.
All the measurements given in the column to the left are those of a regular
36inch
around
th<'
a length of
All illus
same model.
the Bust
Around
Around the
18 inches.
bust,
Onehalf of
ure.
tin
bust meas
This measurement is taken from tlie back of the model, around the fullest part of the bust, under the arms, and around the back, about six inches below the collar.
2.
Length of Back
Length of back,
15 inches. "Write as follows
Take
this
15/26/51
back, from the neck bone spine, to the waist line, and
down along
the
By
this
we understand
our
If
length of back is 15 inches to the waist line, 26 for jacket inches length, and 51 inches
that
Record
in full.
we take this measurement for a jacket or coat, we write this length also. If Ave wish to take the measurement for a skirt we record all three in full, as shown in the opposite colunni.
Width
lie
of
Back
*3.
Width
62
of back, inches.
careful to take this measiirement neither always according too narrow nor too wide across the back from to the actual fashion one armhole to the other, with the arms dropped in natural position at sides.
4.
Length of Side
This

4.
Length of
8i
side,
measurement
is
taken
from
the
arm
inches.
81/27/52,
Write
three
J ^
[
pit to the waist line. For jackets and skirts measure down to the desired lengths, and record as shown in the opposite column in
full.
(*).
Record Onehalf of
Measurements Marked
PARISIAN
5.
LADIES'
Around
TAILORING SYSTEM
Measurement
the Waist
Around
W(>
J
6.
Onehalf of ment.
measure
take this measurement from the back, where the waistline is most distinctly marked, and
Armhole
Size or armhole,
16 inches.
the back around the arm socket, sleeve joins the dress. Take carefully, as arms are differently developed.
Record
7.
in full.
Height of Shoulder
This
is an important measurement, as some models have sloping and some high shoulders. Begin at the waist line in the center of the back, run over the highest point of the shoulder, along the most developed part of
the bust,
front.
down
Record
8.
in full.
Around
Tliis
the Hips
*8.
Around
the hips,
20 inches.
Onehalf.
measure is taken from the front around the most pronounced part of the hips, about 7 inches below the waistline.
Width
*9.
of Chest
Width
of chest,
8^ inches.
Onehalf.
to the other inclined bow line over the most developed part of the bust.
downward
Height of Front
Begin
10.
Height of front,
21 inches.
at the back neck bone at the base of the neck, run over the shoulder to the center of the front to the waistline.
1
I
Record
Length of Front
in full.
I.
^
11.
Tliis
Length of front,
16/26/51
measurement begins in front at the base and runs down to the waistline. For jackets and skirts, measure down to the
of the neck
Record
Record Onehalf of aU Measurements Marked
(*).
in full.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
12.
Length of Shoulder
Measure
12.
I'loui
5 inches.
Record in
full.
3.
Around
the
Neck
*13.
Around
tlie
neck,
Run
64 inches.
/
4.
Record onehalf.
Length of Under
Arm
.ioint
the
elbow
then
18
iuchea.
and reco^'d botii of the ascertained measures as shown in opposite column. Record in full.
15.
Circumference of
Arm
tin
15.
Circumference of arm,
10 inches.
Record
in full.
Preparing
(See Tables
Our
at
Scales
I IT
end of Volume)
a\
Since our system is based \ipon length and coriect scales of miasuri'mrnts in order to design
model.
Our
The
measure.
scale of length
is
2.
scale of width
we saw
bust measurement.
With
these in
the length of back of a regular 36 was recorded as onehalf of the around the mind we are ready for our scale.
that
().
.PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
The
Take a
back
strip of
Scale of Length
to the waistline.
paper one inch in width, exactly as long as the length of In example cited tliat lengtli is 15 inches.
Fold this strip of paper into four equal parts, and each of these divisions Thus the whole length of back is divided into again into four equal parts. sixteen (16) parts, which serve as our scale of length.
Kemember
shorter,
that
if
is
shorter,
the
divisions
will
be
and
if
we have
but the length must always be divided into sixteen (16) equal parts.
The
Scale of
Width
we
half of the around the bust measurement. In our illustration of the 36 model,
we
recorded 18 inches.
Cut a strip of paper one inch (1) wide, exactly onehalf as long as the around the bust measure. Fold inta three equal parts. Then refold each of those equal parts into three. Next fold each of these nine (9) equal parts in half. We have now eighteen (IS) equal parts.
In
forget,
tlu'
is
one
(1)
inch
long,
but do
;
not
that
1st.
that
tin
size
of
the
the bust
mea.sure
2d,
tlie
bust measure
parts.
Remarks About
For convenience
in
the Scales
scales of length and width easily and corend of the book in Table I, scales of length from 13 to 174 inches length of back, and scales of width from 15 to 24 inclies onehalf aro^^nd the bust measurement.
rectly, 3'ou will find at the
making the
These scales of length and scales of width in Table I should be used for both Df our scales, as they have the advantage of being divided correctly.
If we copy these scales of length and width from Table I and paste each on a separate strip of cardboard, we have both of our scales in readiness for any size of figure, and thus avoid wasting time preparing them when needed.
lengtli
For the pupil it is of the greatest importance to know how our scales and width are prepared for any figure, should he be called upon
these scales himself.
of
to
make
Bear in mind simpl.y that the scale of length is always divided into sixteen (16) parts, and the scale of width always into eighteen (18) equal parts.
"With the length and width scales in hand,
the designing of our fundamental waist pattern.
we
are
now prepared
to start
10
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
The Designing
of the
TTT TTT
Z
e
^
TTT
9
TTT
9
f^
Tl
O
01
II
ol
Fig. 3
TAILORS' SQUARE
Fig.
3A
TRACINGWHEEL
Fig.
Hlu'cI.
.3
shows us
a tailoriv square.
on a sheet of paper
shown
in Fig.
4,
and
mark
the same
A B
and
A C.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
11
Fig.
Reduced
to
Onefourth
Mark
A B
line
A C.
A
2
81
12^
17
19
Fig. 5
Reduced
to
Onefourth
51
lines
the points of widtli with our scale of width, along our horizontal line from to B, as shown
to
we begin
.5.
mark
in Fig.
8i
we mark
this distance
along
A B,
These points we
measure,
to
With one part of our scale of length as our unit of we proceed, according to the diagram in Pig. 5, mark off 2, 5^, 8^, 14^ times the length of this unit
14J
from
toward
C,
and
call these
We readily see that the length and width points vary with the size of each of the equal parts of the scale, for
we must
1/16 and
1
not forget that the length of these parts are IS of their respective measurements.
12
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
11.
Length of
and beginningpoint
z.
at the
measure
5.
this distance
along
A C.
Letter this
Fig.
8^
121
17
19
14.1
Fig. 6
shows vertical
lines
lines
drawn from
to
and horizontal
drawn from
A B.
later be omitted
They may
PARISIAN
In Fig. 7
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
and points
13
we have added
certain lines
namely
1st.
2d.
is
An An
one
(1)
A B, drawn from a point inch above z. auxiliary line parallel to A B, drawn from the point b. Avhich inch above the auxiliary line previously made, or Ij inches above z.
auxiliary line parallel to
]
Fig. 7
8i
12^
19
51
one unit part of our scale of width from point 2. The line and ending about half way between Si 14Jon the vertical line A C, forms our front line. 4th. The auxiliary line from point 17 to 5^ gives us the back shoulder line. 5th. The auxiliary line from point 4 to the point Avhere 5i meets 19 is our front shoulder line. 6th. The auxiliary line from point e to 14J indicates to us the height of our
3d.
a.
Point
Avhich
is
bow
line
darts or dart.
7tli.
The
full line
extending through
to the z line
is
line.
8th. The points c, one unit part of the scale of width, and d, onehalf of one unit part of our scale of width, measured respectively from points wliere line
14
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Fig. 8 shows us all the points formerly explained with the followinp additions
:
Fig. 8
12.1
17
19
5i
8i
m.
14J
At a distance of two unit parts of the scale of width the points k and 1 are placed respectively to the left and right of the intersection of line 4 and the bottom line. These points are connected with the dart line 14^ e at line 4, and
thus form our dart. curve that begins at the auxiliary front shoulder line, passes The line 5^17 and the full 12^ through c. m, d. to tlie intersection of the armholc. This gives the line. From point 19 measure down a distance equal to one unit part of our scale of length and mark this point s. Connect 17 an(l s with a curve line, to secure lines. the back line collar cutout as marked in From point s through points f and g, along the center back line, the distance s i equals the length of liack measurement (15 inches according to our
model
figure).
At
we have
point
i,
i
From
Point o is connected with 1 by a curve wliicli passes through r. This curved line represents our front and side waist line. the interis about one unit part of our scale of width distant from Point the line n is drawn to about the section of line 81 and 8i. From point center of the lowest line'. The points need not be exactly measured, as any deviaIf tion to either one side or other does not aflfect the correctness of the pattern. both are located about centrally between 81 and 12i the side effect of pattern is
perpendicular to
meeting the
121
hne
at
j.
better balanced.
PARISIAN
In Fig. 9
the following:
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
in our
15
we
see the
same
lines
we have mentioned
ig
16
PARISIAN
From
till'
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
we measure on From
line z a distance equal this
point
we draw
lines to
about
lialf
way between
to the 8^ line
with
tlie
back.
From u measure both right and left a distance equal to onehalf part of our scale of width and connect both these new found points and
line.
unit
with
lines to point v, a little rounded cutout gives note also that in next extend the waist side piece a correct curvein at the waist line. the line. line from o to this
We
We
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
17
Prevailing fashions dictate whether tlie back or the side parts shonld be narrow or wide, and accordingly we either make narrow backs and wide side parts, or vica versa, as either would be correct, and would make no particular difference in the structure of the pattern. In the same way we make our front parts narrower
or wider, as
we
In Fig. 10 we see exactly the same as in our former figure. We have omitted our construction lines for our fundamental pattern, and have worked instead in heavy lines. Our remarks following explain our new lines.
all
Fig.
11
In this figure
side piece
is
we notice at a glance that our back side line, which joins our longer at the top and shorter at tlie waist line, and that the correline of the side part
is
sponding side
But
we
In Fig. 10
we
and
in
in
lines
making
of a short
"basque" and
line.
heavy
18
PARISIAN
From our
front line,
LADIES'
lli,
TAILORING SYSTEM
lines
we
notice in
end
line z
and beyond,
We
ing the
is
1.
fit.
Stretch
first to
is
make two
is
darts
instead of one, and also two side parts instead of one, to secure a better
fit,
and
described
From k
along base line
to
we
Fig. S measuring
z.
of the scale
Now
that
is,
in
]ilaee
dart
we must
these together nuist not measure more than four unit parts of our scale of width
Along
measure both
to the right
and
equal
and
z.
draw
along line
z,
meet dart
line 14^ e at
off
and
left of line 4,
mark
points at distance of i a
unit part of the scale of width, and connect respectively with p and q in lines p and q. with points that measure Next connect by means of lines.
th(^
scale of width
from
and w.
parts of our scale
Tims we
measure two
luiit
of widiii. and are therefore no wider togctlie) than one dart, which
we remem!)er
Now
bottom
line
connect with
line, to
to
r.
Dart one from the front The second dart bottom line. dart, with the first dart line of the seeond dart, from tin bottom The second dart and line i of an inch above bottom line.
lines tlie following:
liui'
]
of an inch above
point
The corresponding edges of the darts are not identical in length, but nuist be stretched, as we found it was necessaiy to do in the case of the single dait in order to secure shapeliness in the garment.
"We further see in Fig. 11 the division of the one side part of our previous two side parts, which we can make narrower or wider at will. We
figure into
must, however, bear in mind that the width of the cutouts between the two side parts and the side part and front must not exceed together the width of the original side cutout at u, which is equal to one unit part of tlu' scale of width.
Fig. 12 shoMs the basque waist line in
n,
line
is
passing through
j
1,
r,
and ending
in line v,
line
which
between
and
i.
which
sired,
Avaist
As we have stated before, all our jiattcrns are based on the "basque." If, however, the basque is not deis the "fundamental Avaist" patt<'rii. we sec in the next figure how to make tlie necessary changes in the front
line.
PARISIAN
LADIES
TAILORING SYSILM
12
19
Fig.
In this figure point x is taken eqnidistant and 4 along line A B. Now with a thread looped for a pencil, as shown in the figure by the lines, from x as the pivot point for a thread held with the left thumb, describe the heavy broken ark z, u.
from point
all
This gives a Avaist line which we shall use in future fundamental patterns.
auxiliary line i inch above was of value only in the construction of the basque waist line, and may now be omitted from our future drawings.
shows a simplified pattern with lines and lines that show deviation from the original pattern, omitted.
Fig.
1.3
many explanatory
been correctly drafted, according to previous instruepaper under pattern (pinning pattern and paper together to pr event slipping), and with tracing wheel (Fig. 3) trace the front, side, and back along the heavy lines. Next cut out the three separate pieces and lay aside the original drawing for future reference.
When
20
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
13
Fig.
With these separate pai'ts hiid l)eofore us we proceed to remeasure our pattern.
the
Fig. 14 15 explain how the tliree different parts of the pattern, front, side, and back, are placed before we are able to remeasure according to the fifteen (1.5) body measurements previously made, beginning
with measure
14,
1 and ending Avith 1.5. The measurements, 8, around the liips: length of arm; 15, circumference of
arm,
we
will find in
order to measure 7, height of shoulder; 10, height of front; 12, length of slioulder, and 13, around the neck, we must place the shoulder of the back to the shoulder of the front (as shown in Fig. 14 15), to enable us to compare these measurements with those previously made, putting the same back to their proper places for remeasuring all of tlie other parts.
find
We
that
in
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Z]
Fie.
14
*3.
*5.
*j
*9.
Around the bust, 18. Width of back, 6i. Around tlie waist, 13. Around the hips, 20. Width of chest, 8^
Length of shoulder.
5.
12. 13.
6^.
width measurements of a model with a regular 36 bust measure (IS inches half measure) to be namely: 1, around the bust, 18; 3, width of back, 6^; 5, around the waist, 12; 9, width of chest, 8J; 12. length of shoulder, 5; 13, around the neck, 13. If the model is perfectl.y built we will find these correct the slight difference which may occur in some measurements may be easily corrected, as we will show
;
22
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
in Fig. 14.
explained the remeasurin>; of the width measures of our pattern to the remeasuring of our measurements of
2. 4.
6. 7.
10.
11.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
to Socalled Slightly
23
Changed Figures
would be making a serious mistake to assume that every tigure is perfectly normally built; that is to say, that every tigure is built iu exactly the same proportion as our 36 model, given in our drawings.
In most cases, however, we are able to make slight which correct the slight differences that arise through the variations in proportions. In such cases we consider our figures perfect in spite of the fact that they do not come up to the standard model.
alterations
We
24
PARISIAN
Fig.
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
18
Figs. 18
tlie
and 19 we
lieiit
.see
an exactly opposite
case,
namely
backward
figure.
line
must be
lengthened.
in
marked
to
mental
ijattern,
marked
Fig.
19
PARISIAN
Fig.
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
25
20
Flat
and
in
all
we
notice in
lines
in
the changes
we have made
is
onr fundain
shown
heavy
Our back, we
ately narrower.
made
proportionlines
Our shoulder
have
26
Fis.
PARISIAN
22
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Full Chest
In Fig. 23
we
see iu
We
the front
full
changed.
Fig.
23
PARISIAN
Fig.
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
27
and
the
lines.
necessary
changes
raised
in
We
have
the
would have
to
We
Tlie
Fig.
25
28
PARISIAN
Fig.
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
26
sliow.s
lu Fig. 27
we
see that
we have
increased
order to
make
the measurements
Tiu'
altered.
Fig.
27
PARISIAN
LADIES"
TAILORING SYSTLM
The Slender Figure
29
normal
model
the
length
of
the
back,
the
under arm.
The
slight
lines
in
Fig.
indicate
the
after re
measuring we notice that the length measurements of the pattern do not exactly
agree with those of
the model. Fig. In drawing our fundamental pattern
all
28
these
parts
will
work out
correctly.
Fig.
29
30
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
The Short
Built Figure
Fig'.
30
fnrr
the
tiiau tile
slioAvs the sliort built figure, and therefuudinniMital pattern must lie shorter uornuil.
lines, marking length In Fig. 31 the of back, length of sides, height of shoulder, height of front, and length of front are shorter than the full lines marking the original fundamental pattel'll.
no^v given the most important devianornnd which the pupil may encounter in actual work Avith different models, and we have tried to show how to meet these difficulties by making the correct variations in our patterns.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
and Material
31
The Cutting
After
l)een
all
of Lining
to correspond with the measurements the cutting of our linings and materials.
changed
In the
we
j)roeeed
to
we must be careful to lay out our pattern (lengthwise) would lie on the body if ready to wear. The iieavy lines indicate how much we have to add to these parts for seams, the width of the heavy lines being the measure.
first
place
on the material, as
this
The general allowance for seams is f of an inch, except for the center Vinek. shoulders and front line, in which case we allow  of an inch.
An extra allowance not shown in this pattern of 1 inches the front line for a hem, buttons and button holes.
is
made along
On the right front, however, I of an inch of this extra allowance must be cut away in order that this front, wliich contains button holes, shall properly lap over our buttons, and thus give a centrally located front line.
Fig. 32.
side part,
The sleeves (which we show in our next diagram) must also lie lengthwise on our material, if we wish the grain of the material to run the same in both waist and sleeve.
32
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Under Sleeve
the construction of two differ
In Fig. 33,
ent sleeves, the
D E,
and Fig.
3t,
F G, we show
in
first
jackets
the
As
in
first
draw
to each other with the "tailors' square," lettering the horizontal line
AB
and
C.
From
point A, along
7,
A B,
along
A C,
meas
(These
two measurements
of
From
211
point
we next measure
12,
A C.
always meas
these
points
are
ured
in inches.)
f to n.is
li inches,
the length
making
But we
tance from
miast
f
dis
to to
correspond
over
3
to
Ave
draw a
semi
circle for
our sleeve
ball.
connect points e and f with then draw our curve e f of an inch with a maximum distance of "We
first
lines,
]
We lines just made. from the have now the curve of the upper sleeve.
From point f through n, Avhich marks the intersection of lines 7 and 12, to the intersecting point of lines 8 and 211,
draw
upper
a curve for the
sleeve.
underarm seam
of
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
The heavy
point
lines
33
line
d with the intersecting point of 32 and 23 marks the bottom of sleeve.
lines the end of Connect with bottom of sleeves and 12, for the auxiliary onter line of npper sleeve.
Next measure in from point 4 a distance of ^ of an inch, marking point t. Connect o and t with a curve. From t
continue in double curves, as shown in
below 12 in the made. Make the "We rest of auxiliary line a heavy line. now have our npper sleeve and proceed to the under sleeve.
figure, to a j^oint a little
auxiliary line
before
along 3^
line a 3^ and 2, draw the Point g is half way between lines A
g.
and 3^ on line 12. Connect g and h, which is one (1) inch along the bottom
sleeve line, also with
plete the
lines. Comby connecting lines just made with an elbow the curve near g. This forms the outer curve of the under sleeve.
heavy
line a
Along line 4i mark with b a point Connect halfway between 3i and 7. with curve a, b. c and r, for cutNote in figure that out of under arm.
b reaches an inch away from curve a
its
highest point i of
line a
n,
b.
Now
the
sleeve.
We
and
8.1.
notice
lines connecting
line
This
marks
is
equidistant from 7
In Fig. 34,
F and
is
is
one
(1)
inch instead of
of an inch distant
from
4J.
Line
trifle
above
23.
is
lines
near k
the
same
as in
lines a g and g h. with tlw (ll)ow In the nndersleeve the near g, show the onter curve of a narrower nndersleeve. We also notice rounding a curve along a g, } of an inch from i.
34
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
As tlie arms in different models vary greatly in their development, we must be eareful in our remeasuring in order to make tlie sleeve neither too wide nor too narrow.
shows how cumferenee of arm, are to
Fig.
3")
6.
lie
size of armholi',
14,
length
of
underarm,
15,
eir
I'emeasiired.
little,
If
as the case
may
he,
or widen or narrow
to
make
it
Fig. 35
the
measure of the
of
top
the
that
upper
is
sleeve,
the
must
ways
be
about
hole
two
inches
measure
taken
on the model.
In
hole
finishing
t li
garment,
of
the the
armwaist
of
must
while
be
the
stretched
curve
in
the upper
arm must
order
of
be held
to
in,
;_;ecure
ease
movement
for
the
nnist
inclies
add 1\
to
the
th of sleeves for
ng.
PARISIAN
Fig.
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
construct ion
liiu^s.
35
36 shows
J>
oui'
sleeve
pattern without
is
the
upper, and
The heavy
allowance for the seams. An extra 1i allowed at the bottom for inside finishing.
Fig.
36.
The fashions may lujdergo changes, but we must always use the fundamental pattern for the basis for any sleeve, as arms will always have tliL^ same shape, regardless of changes of styles. The length of shoulder may be longer or shorter, but this need not cause any difficulty, as the patterns may easily be changed to accommodate the style in vogue. Our next figures show how these changes are to be made.
36
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Fie.
37
In Fig. 37, A,
we
see the
upper part of
Fig.
38
in
full lines.
In
a
we
see
how
to
make
Always bear
in
auxil
and
leaving
narrower
shoulders.
increase the
we must
in
arm
ball,
order to be able
arm
38
shows
us
the
fundamental
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
37
Fig.
39
38
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSl EM
Pattern
The Fundamental
Making
Now
waists
aiiil
tliat
\v(>
liavc
making
necessary
to
form patterns of
shirt
We
he lengthened or shortened,
how
the
how
collars
and
due
to
Of course only
few problems
in
these
we
We
trations.
making
place in our
illus
The
Fig. 41
Shirtwaist In
Its
Different
the
Forms
of which will be fully
shows us
a shirtwaist pattern,
making
explained.
It
A\(.iuld
be advisable, however, for the pupils to study Figs. 42. 43. 44,
in
made
in
In Fig. 42
we have
lines)
a,
AB
in
perpendictdar to
a
A C.
b.
pattern (in
such
position
that
the
shoulder
point
c.
falls
along
A B.
A
('.
and
A C
at such
an angle that
the point
two
('2)
from
d on
lines
have been
we
ignore them.
position
e
e.
From
measure
line
prolonged, a distance to
e
g. ecpials to
scale of width,
and connect
g,
as
shown
in
We
waist pattern
three (3) tmit parts of our scale of width larger than that of our
to e
and
f to g.
From d
we note
is
to
C measure two
line.
inches and
draw u
v.
parallel to d
g.
which
our waist
may
or below skirt.
From
draw
the
point
b,
line
line b
F.
y,
to
in Fig. 41.
The
line,
the
front
F
p
in
The triangle L
lines
ci
y,
in
lines
and triangle
if
show how
lapels
couhl be
made L
desired,
by
y and b
F.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
40
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM A B
to
A C.
falls
"VVe
lie
place
i
our
h,
fundain
at
and
such
line,
two
(2)
unit parts of
We
and
1
next place the side piece to the back so that the two pieces join at m,
(1)
width from
From
to
and from
is
to r
is
oiu'
(1)
made
to give freer
play
the
arndiole
and
side,
as
tightfitting
garment. The
is
z.
shown
in
in
the front.
is
shown
in
In Fig. 43
side
we
notice that
we have made
a onepiece pattern
is
by joining the
three
(3)
If,
and back
of our
fundamental pattern.
nnit
parts of our scale of width wider than the original, as explained above.
ever,
how
we
Avish
we
in in
fit
lines.
But
lines
as
our armhole
Ave haAe
in
nmde
that
added
tliis
changed armhole.
inch
of
is
alloAved.
Ave
make an
extra albiA\anee
Ij
inches
in
addition
to
We
Ave
Avill
cufifs,
and
(litf<'rent
sleeves
as
proceed further.
In Fig. 45 AVe give an example of a Avaist with slight changes in the con
struction. otherAvise
all
made
as in our
former
pattern.
Thi'
Fit;'.
foUoAving:
In
is
continued to point
line
e.
Avhich
e
is tAA'o
(2)
from the
lines
A ('.
to
This point
may
in
be conturn
is
parallel
(',
Avhich
If Ave cut
along
C,
as shoAvn in
lines,
Avill
our lapOA'er
Avill
slope in toward
way
is
it
contiinu'
down
left
off.
in
a straight
only
made on
this
left
in this Avay
on the
be not only useless, Init in the Avay and, therefore, should be cut
In Fig. 47 Ave see the same pattern to the waist line as given in our illuslines on the shouder. corresponding to tration. Avith the adilition of the
our front
iiart.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
41
42
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
tlie
Fig 48 shows how the front and liack part meet along
center shoulder,
lines
and
also
gives
the
formation of an extra
shoulder
in
strap
in
on
eithei'
The
liiii's
Fig. 46
47
show where
Fig.
4.'i.
this strap
falls
in
shows a
front.
Avaist
with three
(:>)
pleats
in
front
low
eollareut in
In Fig.
"(O
we observe
is
one
shown
in
Fig. 49.
to
The
it,
and the
lines parallel
room
i of
to
make
in
the in
needed
to
form the
pleats.
an inch
width
may
]deats desired.
Fig. 51
The
and
lines
on cither
lines.
marking
places
for
nmtch the
front.
This pattern
is
as the front.
Fig.
").'!
a yoke,
in
front
and
in
front
in this figure
made
shown
later.
Fig. 54 the
line to
line
s
shoAvs
the
neck
line
cut.
The
f
Y
tile
the
and the
x
the
indicate
shorter,
the
cut
for
tlii'ee
the
deep,
and
the
<'Ui'\'e(l
yoke.
Tile
jiarallel
=^=
lines
g.
an
inch
above
z,
indicate
the
deep
in of niati'rial
The short
vertical lini's
mark
the pleats.
ielative

a
in
yoke
cuts;
lines,
and
h
'}
1,
the
in
if
deep,
lines,
is
necessary to
form
desired.
We
in
53,
mentioned
of an inch for
shoulder, center of the back and front, 11 inches in addition to the above men
tioned
low
tlie
waist line.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
43
44
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
45
/^^^^^.~.________^rrx
46
PARISIAN
LADIES"
TAILORING SYSTEM
sleeve of our fundamental pattern
in
and under
reduced
such a position
A B,
show
The
are each 3J
A B.
the
full
figure
lines
indicate
tlie
the
shirt
allowance
waist.
necessary to
lines a
tliat
make
,
the sleeve
fit
the en
larged armliole of
and
mark
tlie
and widths
may
be desired.
a.xis line
A B,
we
pattern in
sleeve pattern
waist.
in
lines.
In full lines
the
addition
tlie
made
to
widen the
with
Avider
armhole of the
tlie
distance of
c
tlie
points
AB
if
is
Si inches.
is
The point
and
can be placed
the sleeve
line
made
58
AB,
undersleeves. in
Tlie points
s s
The and
to
is
from L
to s
is
AB,
is
upper
sleeve.
It is
shown here
the dis
equal to
tance
s
that
is,
equals
distance
r.
In the undersleeve
we
cut
away
a.
r.
but
t,
equal to o
t
is
to the
upper
x.
sleeve, to
is
give the
The point
connected with
which
We
the
liottom
made
Collar
Construction
We
collars.
are
now prepared
For a
to a
The construction of
garment.
of
fit
tlie
collar
which
We
make
we
and
accompanying
figures.
Fig. 59 illustrates the formation of different collars, suitable for shirt waists
dresses.
The front and back pieces of the fundamental pattern have been
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
47
o
n
m c n m
48
PARISIAN
LADIES'
a
TAILORING SYSTEM
1)
I'epresents tlie
tluit
is
pointed
cutout
of
the
in
form a
lapel.
Now
along
the
neck
1
cutout
e,
b,
from
b to
b to g in
lines,
from g
to
to
in
lines
and
to
the center
back, in
f
we
in
= = ==
lines.
lines,
from
in
and
from
to
in
._.
Still
l.i
is
<1
= = =
lines,
d to
and
to
in
If.
desired,
shaped
the
lines
in
front.
in
We
point
of this
i
to
f,
to
in
and
to c along the
same
lines as
one
previously
con
sidered.
A
and up
to
in
e
and
and one
in
and from
to
c,
the
center bar!;.
Fig. 60
collar
which perfectly
fits
high cut
neck
will
never
We
from
to b,
which
is
bent
lines, if desiied.
From
pointed to
d.
1)
in
to
c,
we
see a
is
in
the back or
necessary.
to the point,
Another
b.
^ ^^^
one
is
lines to
and
in
lines
to
e.
Here
also
no extra
lapel.
A
there
in
dif'fci'eiit
seen
extending from
1)
1i
in
in
lines to lines to
and
f.
Still
j.
and from
and
e.
If
we make
collar
from
a to the
j
lapel,
and from
fail
there in
lines to k,
through
fit
over
to
e,
we cannot
to
a high neck.
is
shown
in
lines.
Startpoints.
ing at b
in
= = =:=
lines to c
f,
and
i,
we have
a collar with
to
j,
many
in
We
in :::::::: lines to d,
from there
and then
lines to
smalliM collar
in
====
to c
and
in
lines to r
and
n.
A
b in
collar
rounded
lines
in front
and square
in the liack is
1.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
49
Fig.62
POCKETS
50
PARISIAN
LADIES"
TAILORING SYSTEM
Pockets
lu
Fig'.
62
we
row three
indi
In the
first
row we
a,
b and
c,
and below,
cated by the same letters, the patterns for these pockets. The little rounding at tlu' top of tlie finislied pockets we can easily make ))y cutting, as .shown in the unfinished pocket.
desire.
d. e
But we can
also
make
tlie
top, if
we
so
and
is
In Fig. 62A
we
how we
is
where
it
skirt, or dress.
lines full lines Fig. 62A shows us a front of a jacket, and in an upper sleeve pattern placed with the higliest point of the arndiall to we see the lowest point of our front shoulder seam.
The pocket
full
is
then placed about two (2) inches above the lower end of the
length sleeve.
we again show
different sleeves
and
cuffs,
from
twopiece one.
e, and d, show us four sleeves in one piece (as shown used here are constructed as shown in cuff's a b d. The The b and c, in the figure. cuff' are cut respectively as a construction lines E T R. from the lower to the upper cut. are one (1) inch apart to give the necessary fiare needed, so that the upper cuff should not lie flat over the lower one.
In this figure, a
cuff's
p^lo.
tion under e
lines
gh g
shows three
Tlie
in
dift'erent cuff's, of
h.
uudersleeve in
full lines.
this
pattern
marked
in
The same patin full lines is the pattern for cuff' e. seams joining. Cuff' g li, is used for cuff h. In the at the top, as shown iu e tern, but pointed This lines, is the pattern for g. in full and partly in same figure, partly the center of the under sleeve and therefore extends from cuff has its seam in
to
beyond.
of sleeve
r to
The construction
f ik
s,
is
illustrated iu Fig. f
k.
through
tlie
A B.
su])ply
show the required shape for added to our upper sleeve three (3) tucks shown iu f.
lines
57,
sleeve in
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
51
52
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
The Cutting
skii't
cau be made
more
width of the
we
will
pattern for
circular skirt.
Remember
that
We
structed,
13,
how
is
con
and we
we had made
this
the thumb
the
thread
forming the
On
line
C as shown
A C
a,
point a eighteen
(18)
inches from
mark mark f,
tliread circle
maker
oft'
mark
arc a
Form
the
hip line
We
Length of
skirt.
:;{6
inches in front.
tlie
measure).
Length
of back, 37 inches.
inches.
Hip measure, 40
From
the figure.)
along a
skirt
(36
inches
in
P^rom
a, in
a curve along
tlie
"i.
waist
line,
measure
f.
(i:>
oft'
Along
tlu'
mark
The point
eciiiidistant
from
lialf
a,
and
e,
of our side
invariably
way between
back.
As we
We
lati'r
show how
this
may
be increased or diminished.
the length of the skirt at the center front, measure
along a slight curve a distance of 22} inches, or onehalf the width of the half
n.
From n
in this
way
rei^eat this
measurement
to
i.
PARISIAN
LADIES
TAILORING SYSTEM
53
54
Connect
line
e
PARISIAN LADIES'
with
n,
TAILORING SYSTEM
Tliese lines give us respectively the side
and
and
g
witli
i.
and center
liack of
our
skirt.
Along
the
si<lc
lini'
''iGl
mark
off a
distance equal
inches).
back measure
oft'
the reqiiired length of back for the model (37 inches in figure).
to
Be careful
remeasure
to
secure accuracy.
Now draw
of
skirt.
As
all
we must allow
seams, and
at the top
(if).
The
shown
in Fig.
Fig. 62.
Above
P'ig.
64,
we
lines.
One
is
circular
line,
the
fit
front.
These yokes
are
cut
and
back of the
skirt,
will
be
In Fig. 66
we
see the
if
same circular
compared.
We
to a, along
A P>
to
('.
Fiom
A we
oft'
A C,
and from
a,
made mark
at
a distance
equal
Next from
a. in a
slant along
A B
mark
line
off at
Connect
with
As
of
identical
witJi
that
of Fig.
65.
our method
is
side,
of back
the
same
Fr(un point
o,
measure on
a perpeiidii'ular 2 inches to
line.
c.
Connect a and
through
c,
line,
it
is
necessary
make
tills
is
In Fig. 66 below
line.
o,
c,
indicated as a
between
tlie
dotted
On
the
line
r
n,
we
see
by
and
at the
is
If the skirt
made
in
how
a
possible
to
is
make
From
the
waist
line,
small triangle
of
c.
line on(>half of
in
an
incli
on either side
is
made
in
two
is
fit.
Tims we
(1)
curved waist
made exactly
inches,
inch at
c,
and of onehalf
(^) of an inch at
e.
PARISIAN
Both of our
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
in
55
illustrations 64
If If
placed on
the
fold
the
nuiterial.
two pieces, both front and back are placed on the fold and as a result
Care must be taken
to
shows
a belt in the
heavy
lines.
Two
pointed
yokes
in
different
and
lines.
Fig.
sFig.66
56
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
The Cutting
"We
iK.'xt
of the
Skirt
lU'iiioustratc
])lrated skirt.
]iioportions
we must
decide upon
tlie
bottom.
(2i)
two and
oneludf
.')()
yards
around
tin'
Ixittom.
inches wide.
a
This skirt consists of a front piece cut on the fold, a side part, and part cut on the fold.
back
The same
all
is
sliglitly
gathered.
We
from our
6SA shows
AC
perpendicular to
e
AB,
to
line
From A
apart.
along liue
A C
mark points
s,
threefourth (f ) of an inch
Fi'om
measure
ofl the
A C
this
the
From
measure
From
half of
tlir
C"
unvisure 16 inches to
on the auxiliary
as
tlie
liue.
bottdiii
center front
laid
on the
Along
A B
r
marking point
1^
o.
Connect o and
s
i.
From
along
measure
in to
a distance of
inches.
Connect
with a
curved
line,
make
the rounding u E,
The waist
line s
measui'e 4^
Fig. 6S,
B shows m n
fiom
ni
parallel
(^'oiuiect
to<
A C,
j.
'S
to to
,i
and li inches
to g,
g and
The
cutouts
from
E
liue
and from g
from E
to
to
are
H
4,^
inches each, or
inches.
inches together.
E measures
C shows
h to
Fig. 6S,
h
t.
k
a
parallel to
A B,
The bottom
is
line
from k
to
is
14 inches.
for
tlie
From
liiu'
cutout of 11 inches
waist
of the
back gore.
This width
If
we gather
tlie
onethird,
which
we add
measure
13 inches, which we
line in Fig,
68
AB C
to
are
made
fi'om u.
This point
We
bottom of gores
is
the
left straight
on the bottom.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
57
t/in^
X
m
c
n
Length
of Sides
..sy.
CR
CENTER
Length of Back
on
^a
58
PARISIAN
Tlie sides of patterns
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
are
A B C
in
marked
shown
the figures.
The
length of side.
lines in
The short
Fig. 69
parallel lines in
indicate gathers.
etit'ect
skirt, the
that Fig. 67
whereas
this
is
skirt
in
six gores.
is
This change
thi'
fact
jiiecing.
The perpendicular
and the lengths from
AB
to C,
to
A C
2:i
and
tJie
a,
measurements from
li
to e
s,
to n, x to
anil
to k, aiT
unchanged.
in
skirt
is
l>otli
and 10
inclu'S in
each of
This
the side gores (the two in the pattern are cut double
we must remember).
gives us a total of SO inches, about 2j yards for the bottom of the skirt.
At
to
is
4 inches,
in
B,
from
to
g 6
inches, in C,
from x
to z 6 inches,
and
in T). fi'om h to
10 inches.
t
The cutouts
u E. g u E. m u E. x u E.
width.
z^u E and
Adding the
front
line nn_asurements
we
get 9 inches.
This
plus the back gore gathered to four inches, gives IS inches for half of the waist
measurement.
Further
Ave
observe the
lines
from
to
in
k,
in
pattern
D.
which
a
we
gathering
the
back, and
make
fitting back.
Fig. 71
shows
plaited skirt.
from
to
The center
back.
front fold forms a box plait, with the plaits on both sides facing
Fig. 73
shows
l)ox
lie
jilaced
closei'
oi
farther
apart
as
desired.
we
will
show how
to
diangc
our
in front
We
will also
endeavor
to
show how
to
make
a variety of dresses
by combin
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
59
Cente
Length of Back
on Fold
D3
60
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
anod NO
>i3j.Na3
PQ
\....
X h X
u
z
CO
bJD
bJDa
U
anoj NO
d3i.N30
<
c/i
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Shoulder
61
Changes from the Fundamental Pattern to a Pattern Seamed Front and Back
Fig. 76 shows a skirt with a yoke pointed in front,
to the
in
and a waists with seams These seams take the place of the usual dart, and extend entirely to the shoulder, thereby giving a longer line effect.
to the shoulder both in front
and back.
AB
j.
to
A C,
e,
from
From point on the shoulder line, Avhieh width distant from the armhole, connect i j in
is
for a construction
line.
j,
half (i) of an inch to tlic left of the eonsti'uction line. dart with a slight rounding.
Cutting along the full lines we have with seams reaching to the shoulder.
now
from
The fiuidamental shirt waist back connected with side part pattern is shown in full lines. The line t s is the basque back, originally made. lines indicate the joining of side and back of the original basque The to from the onepiece shirt waist back.
two unit parts of the scale of width lines. Next draw the full line h g, curved about onehalf (1) of an inch slightly to the right. Connect the former side lines with this line, as high up as it formerly reached in the arm rounding. Cutting along this line will give ns a twopiece back with a seam from the shoulder
point h on the shoulder
line,
From
in
to the waist.
line.
We
and
must
.skirt,
As mentioned
of buttons
before
we must allow
and button
must
also
we must have an
We
is
In Fig. 77
we
shoAV a dress Avith yoke in front and back, and plaited both in
This
is
made from
and shirt Avaist. extended to the desired length. The around the Avaist line, and ties in front. Fig. 79 is a dress made from a shirt Avaist pattern and a plain skirt joined at the Avaist line. The belt ties in front, and a pocket is placed on the right side. Fig. 80 is also a combination of a simple shirtAvaist and a plain skirt. It is made Avith a belt pointed in front and can have any desired collar shoAATi in
Fig. 78
is
a plain skirt
6L
62
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
CQ
PARISIAN
LADIES
TAILORING SYSTEM
63
64
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Suits,
In this As wo all know a ladies' suit consists of a skirt and jacket. chapter we will consider the changes necessary to plan a suit using our fundamental pattern. Our shirtwaist pattern as previously shown, will give any kind of loose jacket with plaits or shirrings in front, or in the back, or in both of these parts. In Fig. Si we give a jacket of a suit, which resembles Fig. 74, the only difference being that the pattern in Fig 74 is constructed only to the waist line, while Fig. 81 is made to the hip line. All explanations and measurements are the same as previously given.
C o
c O
111
PARISIAN
LADIES'
lAILORING SYSTEM
65
We
from
only
2iV
inches wide.
marked front facing, wliicli is a dnplicate To this we must make all additions
to
Fig. 82 shows ns the side and back part put together the
75,
same
as in Fig.
it
line,
we
continue
to the
hip line.
In Fig. 75 the side part, as
we
notice,
extends from h to
at
is
the
waist
from g
to
r,
that
to say, that
just as wide as
from g
tween.
A
t
We
construction
The point
l^osition.
of
its
present
without
aft'ecting the
Its
shape
at
of the pattern.
line thus
position detertlie
back
The distance
equal to g
x.
our cutout,
x
is
z.
From
draw
the
heavy curve parallel to z h meeting the back about at the same height as formerly, and forming a new side line which folloAvs the exact curve of the other, x and
1
at
the hip
line.
We
is
broad across the shoulder blade in the back and curves in to a narrow waist line. Through this change the side part is Avider than formerly.
Fig. 81 and 82 shoAV a jacket seamed from the slioulder both in front and back, extending to the liip This in line, or any length desired.
Sleeves,
pockets,
and suitable
Avith
ly
cordance made.
explanation previous
Hyp
w
Reduced to One Fourtfh
ine
mak
66
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
The Cutting
111
of
Fig'.
Tile
except
rounded,
and
pointed
in
Otlierwise. as
we
notice, they
In a
apart.
and
li
i of
an inch.
the half
is
of the collar,
namely
60 inches.
We
how
the collar
shap(Ml
is
around them.
in
wr
notici'
that a rounding
made
front and in
b,
that
:,'
of an
inch on each half collar has been a(bled in front for buttons and buttonholes.
Fig. d
and
c
i
roundi'd collar.
Diagrams
is
The center
line
2i inches from the base, and the top 2 inches from this center line.
is
connected
Avitli
ing collar, and as botli are the same width, they will
Diagram
in
sition.
e,
la]iel
and
tailored turndown
collar
lines.
we
see
how
In
liiiis
we
An
garment.
S^ inehes long.
For
collar pattern
e,
draw
drawn
AO
Line
is
placed
of an inch below
it.
A 0,
parallel to
is
and
line I)
paralbd to
li inches above
The perpendicular E
51
on line
half
is
half
way
lietweeii
and E.
tliis
meeting
collar
in
is
way
between E and A:
connecting
ioljar.
The
completed by
O and
if
T. and
liardv
O and
we
two
D, with eur\'cs as
s]lo^^n
the figure.
gives the collar the
is
At
tli(>
center
correct shape
fold
at 1)
made
in
cut in one, on a
part
a
A U, the lower portion N A V must be pressed in. while tlie upper X O D A must be strrtcheil. to secure the jiroper rounding needed for
tit.
good
Fig.
f,
a
is
shawl
eollar.
In the
working diagram
f,
A O
5i inches from A.
is
U
J
J inches below
A,
e,
and
Ti inehes above
the
same
as in Fig.
previously shown.
The curve O
crosses line
about
to the
e.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
67
Fig. 8 3
COLLARS.
68
PARISIAN
In diagiain
g.
LADIES'
same
TAILORING SYSTEM
collar as exijlaiued in
e,
Ave
see the
is
rounded.
Diagram
that
h,
shows
iis
the
same same
as
diagram
cutout.
e.
e,
but
to
we
see in
lines
we have added
The
get
longer
and
more
pointed lapel.
the
as in
we
order to
make
has
correspond with
h.
shows
a tailormade jacket,
used for
a suit coat.
collar.
It is
tight fitting
and
turned
back
cufifs.
and
high
turneddown
'lattern
with
darts
in
lines.
There
is
also a
line
lines
to
shoulder.
The cutout
collar.
neck
in
the fi'ont
is
G
lines.
shows thr
side,
and
II tin'
in
TIu' waist
lini' in
F G and
II is
marked with
lines,
with
lines.
Along
wide for the
tlie
slit
center back in
if
and
II
we must add:
in Fig.
in front
81
and
N
marked.
is
and
F G and
with
collar
II
lines
likewise
so
shows
tile
As the distance
is
of
two
loose
inches,
to the iiei'iiendicular
also allowed in
secui'e
accordance
front
we
readily
see
how we
the
shown
in
A.
at
D
lieen
is
a pocket.
a enlf,
and
a collar,
e.
tlie
liave
8.3
to be
It
is
is
Our
illustration
made with
belt
and pockets.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
69
R
/
'
N
/
;
/
/ /
/ /
Fig. 84

I
' )
\
/
y*
]
I
70
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
We
lines
see in
as this
F and 6
garment
and
(2)
unit parts of our scale of Avidth at the waist line in front for buttons
and
liuttonholes.
The tailored
lapel
and
collar begin at
the neck
cutout; the
lines
show how
In
G we
to
the
waist
line,
down the length of this garment as exjilaiucd in former we have made the seamed front, F and G must each be cut
constructions
separately.
and as
H
lines in
and
H
R
D,
which
is
In
and
N

we
notice in
lines
the allowance of
seam made
in the
Fig. 87,
coat.
shows
a semifitting jacket
which could
shoulder,
also
to the
In
F
is
in
lines
we have
At the neek
in
and larger
lapel, I of
an inch
width
marked by
lines slanting in
from the
either sqiiare or
rounded as
illustrated.
F and G
and
the
lines
show
in
side
at
and also
AVe see also the upper and under sleeves of the regular fundamental pattern and a small replica of the tailormade collar, the measurements and the construction of which are given in Fig. 83
e.
is
also
composed
Fig. 83 d.
tern.
h.
In
in
we have
to the
lines
and the
line
marks an addi
N
shown
in
is
is
cut
tlie
separately.
front
effect
facing
is
as
Fig. 81
must
also be
made.
If
doublebreasted
desired
made
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
71
72
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
PARISIAN
LADIES
TAILORING SYSTEM
73
74
PARISIAN
II
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
in
tlieir
and
relatively
positions in
liy
is
the
lines.
in
F,
and from
an
the
lines
slanting
shown
in Fig. B,
should
we
desire
the same.
Any
shown could
Vie
shows
down
deep
and
belt.
The diagrams
and T show
in
line
and
in
line
the
line,
and
in
heavy
from
From A
front piece
we
The lower
cvit
in one with the front waist, and measures along the bottom
24 inches from
to
H.
is
cut separately,
and
is
and
l)ottom.
The
lines
and
in
lines
the
We
is
see tliat
T extends
i inch
above the
Avaist line,
and that
of an inch
allowed on the fundamental waist pattern from the second dart down.
These
The short
lines
along
C we
marked
in
lines,
the addition at the waist line as in the shirtwaist pattern, and also with the ad
from the armhole to the waist along the side. This pattern is cut on the and measures 21 inches along the bottom from T to V. E and N lines tin:' adregular fundamental sleeve in fidl lines, and in show the
dition
fold as shown,
dition
made
The The
to
fit
= = ===
mark
a length of
48
inches
full
to Figs. S3
and 83
d.
or after pattern
II Pig. 89.
In
at
we have
onepiece turned
down
collar.
F and E
are parallel to S
the
3^ inches.
connected as shown in the figure. F perpendiculars are drawn to E of an inch from each end P'rom points long the correct collar measurement. The lines, making E 131 inches in
R and
F
'[
of
lines
from
to
E show
a possible
cut
for
a
S.
collar
if
desired.
The
extra pieces
liutton
and
and buttonholes.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
75
76
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
PARISIAN
LADIES
TAILORING SYSTEM
77
78
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
fitting
collar
and allows
freer
We
to
fashion.
The
entire
upper portion
H
a
cuffs,
belt
and
attached.
in
lines.
We
At the neck
lar addition
foi
cutout,
we
notice in
lines
to
is
line
from
to
S,
to
S.
seam allowance.
to P.
AVhile the
to
to C.
to the
fundamental pattern
in
lines.
They extend
i inch
being
is
cut on the fold i of an inch higher than the waist line to allow for
the seam.
to
measures 25 inches.
at the
We
]M
is
gathered
and
This coat
is
The
:=^==
collar,
and attached
tlie
cuffs.
E shows
L and G
front,
the
N
d.
is
is
is
marked A.
b and
show
In
all five
we
notice the
where
we
desire
42ineli
length
coat,
the
whole
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
79
Front
Facing
80
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
as follows
to
:
81
From R
will
to
15 inches, from
to
to
15 inches,
7 inches.
this
garment
Avhole
is
the
front facing,
T and R
which
The length of
this coat
it
54 inches
to
the bottom,
desired.
or 48
inches
to
the
=^==
lines,
but
could be
as follows
16^
inches
from
to
0,
164
to C, 13 inches
from
to R,
to B.
tailor
and
the
regular
made
lapel collar.
mark
and wider
in
one
still
We
seams, and these therefore must be allowed for either in cutting the pattern or in
cutting the material.
f of an inch allowance should be
stated.
made
for
(if
all
seams
unless
otherwise
cut in
required.
made
for facing.
When
to
is
"coats,
it
is
necessary
make an
82
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
The
93 shows in
the front
These
lines are
made with
A
Fig. 93
,i4
OQ
1^ ^
'
\
.
I
Front
'\
Vd
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
83
line
The front neck cutout is placed along A C in such a way, that tlie waist is two unit parts of the scale of width from A C. Tlie shouhler line of tile back meets the shoulder line of the front at its lowest point, and the neck cutout of the back lies along A B in such a position that the waist line u is two unit parts of the scale of width from A B.
d
the
armhole N
'N,
;
in
line
as
"^^
shown
e.
in Fig. 93,
and
line
prolong this
to
line
Fig.
94
\
the
\
\
\
length
cape.
desired
for
the
;/
\
\
now mark
line
\
V
rounding.
I
I
Front
The cape shown in tliis is seamed along the shoulder as we notice by the V cut between front and back shoulder seams.
figure
9t shows another cape without seams.
/
\
/
/
,
Fig.
the
fi'ont
is
A B, and fundamental
is
/
4'"'
y.\
/
>k
pattern
this
line,
placed
along
so that
falls
scale
^^
^
both
of
seam of
placed to
the back
of
now
'
front
a semicircle.
lines,
We now
this
semicircle
marking the
A
84
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
tlie
We
tlie
next mark
tlie
tlic
desired length of
side fi'oni
o to
e.
and
a
tlie
from
point.
semieirele
with
as
the center
lines,
marked
in
and
lines.
is
If
more
flaring cape
is
may
more
any distance
lis
the
full
if
length
the
cape
or
cut
shorter
desired as
shown
in Fig. 96.
The construction
capes
lines.
is
of both
of these
shown
in Fig.
is
94 in
The sleeve
d.
shown by an are
from k through
the shoulders to g.
Cutting
along
tliis
line
will
give
second piece
is
demonstrated
in Fig. 95.
Fig. 96
and front
cut
away
is
length of sleeve
reached.
in the front
funda
are
ignored
in
cape
making.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
85
III IV)
for a
Table HI
In examining the upper sleeve pattern
lines,
we
to
B and A
in
lines.
These lines make respectively larger and smaller armhalls as indicated by A B, and higher or lower elbow points indicated by A C. The grading lines which indicate the different sizes are respectively f of an inch apart in the upper arm backseam, both in width and length, but at the top of the armball gradually diminish in width toward point A in the underarm seam. In the under sleeve the 36 pattern is marked in heavy lines. A B and A lines mark respectively the highest and lowest point of the underC in arm cutout. and highest and lowest elbow point. The gradings are ^ of an inch apart for width, and of an inch is allowed,
The curve of the underarm cutout increases in enlarging, and decreases in diminishing our fundamental pattern to meet the grading lines of the back under
arm seam.
Table IV
here shown
lines from points {' to E and D. and from point F to K Note the through C and F to S. These lines are used as guides in grading the pattern. In front and at the sides /i^ of an inch is either added or deducted in grading. lines N V and P. In the side part we see the P is the U to those larger than the reguguide for grading to sizes smaller than 36, and The grading lines are ^/^,. of an inch apart. lar 36. In the back the grading lines are on the average '/^^ of an inch apart, line A B. the construction of same being guided by the By adding the grading distances of the front "/j,., side 'Vni, and back '/,,., we have increased or diminished our half pattern one inch. Doubling this on the whole pattern we obtain the size of the pattern, as all patterns are graded on a
'
twoinch scale.
The
from 30
to 48 bust measure.
Remarks
As all patterns are made without seams, we must allow  of an inch for all seams in the upper and under sleeves, and li inches in the length for turning under and facing. In the basque f of an inch is allowed on all seams, except at the front, shoulders, and center back, where an allowance of J of an inch is made. In addition to this, to the center front an allowance of li inches is made for singlebreasted effect, and from 2 to 2i inches for doublebreasted garments. The usual  of an inch allowance is made for cuffs, collars, pockets, etc.
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