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X^. SKIRTS, DRESSES,, lllitid AU Outer Garmenl'
Class.
Book_
.^Zl^p.
CoffyrightN"
COPYRFCKT DEPOSIT.
.
. able offering After entering into the merits of tions." which enables every one to take measurements. We have long ago. and that it will be a guide and boon to the great masses of our It is come and patrons. at last fit we have and make for herself or for her family. Waists. or any Outer Garment. One of our hardest task has been to find a suituseful to all. as shown us the most generous patronage. The Excelsior Dry Goods Company. many proposi decided upon the free distribution to our customers of "The Parisian Ladies' Teuloring System. cut her own patterns. in accordance with the prevailing our sincere hope that this book will be welinvaluable in every household. make designs. Suits. styles. or for professional purposes. Dresses.INCE I the establishment of our firm 50 years fc^Ji^ ' II well as our mail customers. the ladies of Chicago desired to show our appreciation welcome and of this fact. have and environs.
.
Z. including Four Supplementary 22x28 inches of Full Size Patterns and Grading Instruction for Professional Designers <. Z. Dresses. Suits And All Outer Garments A MEANS OF SELF EDUCATION AND A GUIDE FOR EDUCATIONAL INSTRUCTION IN TRADE SCHOOLS AND DOMESTIC SCIENCE INSTITUTIONS ith Over 100 Explanatory Drawings Charts in Text. Pattern Cutting. Zeisler . Fitting and Making Waists. ZEISLER Copyrighted 1917 by A. Skirts.PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM fi or Designing.
. XVI. The fundamental pattern designing liatternmaking basis of . 46 S S Pockets Culls and sleeves 'file 50 .... 82 and flat chest . and 38 38 X. III. 'file '''he backward bent figure The ligure with broad back .. shoulder . 06 23 2. ." Full sized II. III.. .. ... . ...... folded at Scales of length and width. 1 and 4 with full chest back figure with high .. The cutting of collars for tailored suits and cloaks ... 'file shirtwaist in its different S S forms XT. 2. 21 cutting of capes from the fundamental pattern . designers: 85 Tables I... "Grading" for Professional Designcr.. .. ... Collar construction . Id Changing . and 2 Figs. II.\rraiiging suits.. fundamental pattern of ba... . ..s. . Remarks the hefoie remeasiuing fundamental iialtern Remeasiuing the measures of width Renieasuring the measures fundamental the pattern to seamed shoulder effect in front and 2(1 back XVII.. IV. VH.\n A . waist .'! XIX. CI the .. "J'he the scale XV...') ... I... XII. .\o ^\ ^ %"< Page V.sciue and sleeves. XX. i\\ . ...sional "The Grading" end of book: .. "Original size... .. .. and 50 52 XIV.. neck .. Adaption of the normal pattern for changed ligures The forward bent ligure .... 28 29 30 31 How to talve tlie measure(i (i Cutting of lining and material ments Around the bust Lenglli of l)ark Widlli of Lengtli of sides Around llie Size of arniliole Heiglit of Around tlie liips Width of chest Height Lengtli ol' iif Length of slujuhler Around the Length of underarm Circumference of arm II... Contents Page Testimonials Charts 2 3 (Continued) The The The figure flat Bddy measurements..\^ \^ JAN 10 tyi8 \. Possible changes fashions the 35 the 7 7 7 7 7 IX. haek . IV. fi Constructing the upper and under sleeve under sleeve Renieasuring the upper and 34 (i . . of of XIII.I cutting of a circular skirt pattern Preparing width III. '.^ For ])rofe. ... in 32 7 7 YITI.. .") shoulders Remarks on measurements The slender figure The . 8 ... . 2(1 Tlu' iiieasurenients and their •> shoulders ligure 27 order with sloping Measurements width ol" lengtli and .short built ligure y\. front front .....jackets pattern 21 and for outer 64 garments 22 of length XVIII. Preparing our scales scale the Preparing length .... 9 'fhe cutting of the gored ])leated skirt 50 designing of the fundamental waist pattern . . .. and IV.. ..
Zeisler. Hence the author has sought to explain first. which still cling to "Old Worn Out System" make a number of body measurements the basis of their instructions and graduate their pupils with a stock of stereotyped patterns in hand. it " or a "little letting out" of the original pattern in order to make actual conform to the slim or stout figures of their patrons. they are trial their time and labor in making neceswear out the patience of their patrons. through long years of experience in foreign countries. 2) That no two human figures are exactly alike. Many of our Cutting Academies. and in the end they turn out garments which are seldom perfect fitting. and style that It and secondly. and also to the home dressis certain therefore. and numerous sets of figures in mind. .Preface VERY as woman's ambition is to be her neighbor. who book will be a boon to those give instruction in dressmaking courses. have we and after ^ve the socalled "Basque. has planned this book to serve as a basis for such a course. Z. The secret of fit at least as perfectly gowned the the of correct gowning lies in correct of the garment to the individual figure wearer. As soon convinces them of the incorrectness of their w^ork. but know that the styles change frequently from season we must bear in mind that the underlying principle is " " the "Fundamental Pattern this. 3) That styles vary with the seasons. are able to execute any desired style according varia tions in vogue. and for years in Nev^f York with one of the largest wholesale houses as designer and pattern cutter in ladies' w^earing apparel of all descriptions. to thousands who have chosen dressmaking as a profession. In pattern designing there are three important considerations to bear in mind: 1) That all figures are fundamentally similar. but also some rational course in Pattern Designing. For several years there has been a widespread demand for compelled to waste not only sary alterations. and of the impossibility of fitting individual figures in this fashion. A. comfortable and chic. the making of a FUNDAMENTAL PATTERN. simple language cannot fail to recommend it as "A SELF INSTRUCTOR" to home dressmakers who desire well fitting clothes. and its plain. however. We to season. that this maker. of which memory soon makes a jumble. without discrimination. At the same time its careful omission of all technical expressions. They reason that all that is needed is a little "taking in. Some of our tailors and dressmakers in consequence make the sad mistake of attempting to use one pattern for all figures. The author. all changes of form can be made by modification of this pattern.
^ From L. 305 Canal St. Mr. Cloaks. ^^^. To Mr. in a way surpassing all that was known heretofore. : Mantles.. A. . aided by your unerring guidance and your lucid explanaWell may Ave congratulate ourselves to have found tion of the Tailor Sy. ADLER. THE COMMITTEE. Marks Place. I. AVe shall ever remember the most valuable course we went through. Z. as well as my Inisiness are thoroughly pleased with your system. Practical Designer. LOUIS GRANER. Dear Professor The luulersigned. C. L. Manufacturer of Furs.stem. Zeisler I At your request ing i^atterns for full j' testify that 3'ou my herewith cheerhave been makcustomers. ^. 39 St. To \vhoni I may concern consider the cutting system of Mr. Zeisler. Y. and to grade them most accurately. A. At present in Cleveland. ladies' dresses we are now fully enabled to make all kinds of patterns in the and cloak branch. Very Respectfidly. NcAv York. your method so plain and instructive that after attending your course but for fourteen evening lessons. Ji/^^. a committee of your pupils.. Respectfully. Etc. the All of which we beg to otTer in the name and as the true sentiment of pupils of your evening course.st. Therefore relations. Clevelaiul. J. beg leave to hand you herewith a medal as an inadequate mark of our highest respect and our sineerest appreciation of you as our teacher. New York. A. Adolf Barber. N. Z.: : PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Testimonials From Louis Grancr it & Co. Y. N.. and that the garments tlius made fit ex actly without being tried on fir. Ohio. Adler. Goodman. Goodman.^. Zeisler as practical ami useful to ladies makiufi' their own garments. Z.
accompanied by a chart giving all required measurements. and also showing the construction of the seamed front made from a loose one. all For Professional Designers (See explanation on page 85) TABLE The grading of III upper and under sleeves. with a scale of construction lines. TABLE II A A Full Sized full Fundamental Pattern of Basque and Sleeves sized 86 figure sleeves. in full. Table IV The proper grading of front. The scales of width divided into eighteen (IS) equal parts from a 30incIi (1.PARISIAN LADIES TAILORING SYSTEM Charts (At end of volume. and up to a 48 bust measure. .5ineli lialf measurement) to 4Sinch (24inch half measurement) around the bust. from a 36 figure down to a 30. back.) TABLE The The Scales of Length and I Width in Original Size scales of length divided into sixteen (16) equal parts from a 13inch length of back to ITJ inches. giving a tabulation of all the necessary measurements. fundamental pattern of basque and width and length measurements and showing how they are made. and up to 48. from a 36 figure down to 30. and side parts in full.
Around the Bust. Length of Back. Width of Back, Length of Sides. Around the Waist,
*
Size of Armhole. Height of Shoulder,
11.
li;.
Length of Front.
Lengtii of Slioulder.
Around tlie Hips. Width of Chest.
10.
*13.
14.
Around
tlie
Necli.
Height of Front.
(*).
Lengtii of Under Arm. Circumference of Arm.
Record Onehalf of
all
Measurements Marked
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
The Measurements and Their Order
(See Fig.
1—2)
The measurements are very important. Their chief purpose is to give a thorough knowledge of the build of the body for whioh tlie garment is to be made, and by their means we are enabled to make our pattern correctly and easily for the
model.
The diagrams. Fig 1 2, show in which way and in what order the measurements are to be taken. After some practice and experience we will be able to produce any style of garment to correspond to these given measurements.
In the
—
making
of waists, suits, skirts,
and
all
outer garments,
we need
the
following fifteen measurements in order.
*1.
2.
Around
the bust
6. 7.
*3.
4.
Length of back Width of back Length of sides
Size of armhole Height of shoulder
11.
12.
''lo.
*8. *9. 10.
Around the hips Width of chest
Height of front
14.
Length of front Length of shoulder Around the neck Length of inider arm
Circumference of arm
*5.
Around
the waist
15.
Measurements of Length and Width
(See Fig.
In taking the measurements
1
—
2)
we
notice
that
all
our
measurements
are
length and width measurements.
The Measurements
4. 7.
of
Length Are:
12.
Length of back 10. Height of front Length of sides 11. Length of front Height of shoulder All length measurements are to be recorded
6.
IL
in full.
Length of shoulder Length of luider arm
Size of armhole. 15. ments are also recorded in full.
Circumference of arm, altho not length measure
The Measurements
*1.
of
Width Are:
*9.
'^IS.
*3.
Around the bust Width of back
I
*5. *8.
I
Around Around
the waist the hips
of
Width of chest Around the neck
In the width measurements only onehalf recorded.
the
measurements taken are
Remarks on Measurements
In oi'der not to omit any measurements and to avoid mistakes, it is advisable to take a strip of paper numbered and marked with the 15 measurements in order. This Avill be of great help to the beginner.
All of the examples given in this a length of back of 15 inches.
book are based upon 36 bust figure with
Figs. 1 2 show that in taking the measurements the model, measuring, namely:
*1.
2.
—
we begin from
6.
the back of
Around
the bust
4.
Length of
sides
Size of
arm
hole
*3.
Length of back Width of back
Record
Onehalf of
all
*5.
Around
the waist
7.
Height of shoulder
Measurements Marked
(*).
:
:
2
PARISIAN
Tliis
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
shown
in Fig. 1
done,
we proceed from
11.
12.
the front of the tigure, as
—
and measure
*8. *9.
10.
Around the liips Width of chest
Height of front
*13.
Length of front Length of shoulder Around the neck
14. 15.
Length of under arm
Circumference of arm
How
to
Take
the
Measurements
1—2)
back of 15 inches.
(See Fig.
All the measurements given in the column to the left are those of a regular
36inch
around
th<'
bust figure, with
a length of
All illus
trations in this book are based on the
same model.
the Bust
*
1
.
Around
Around the
18 inches.
bust,
Onehalf of
ure.
tin
bust meas
This measurement is taken from tlie back of the model, around the fullest part of the bust, under the arms, and around the back, about six inches below the collar.
Record onlv onehalf.
2.
Length of Back
Length of back,
15 inches. "Write as follows
Take
this
measurement along the center of the
15/26/51
back, from the neck bone spine, to the waist line, and
down along
the
By
this
we understand
our
If
length of back is 15 inches to the waist line, 26 for jacket inches length, and 51 inches
that
Record
in full.
from the neck bone to the bottom of the skirt.
* 3.
we take this measurement for a jacket or coat, we write this length also. If Ave wish to take the measurement for a skirt we record all three in full, as shown in the opposite colunni.
Width
lie
of
Back
*3.
Width
62
of back, inches.
Onehalf of the measure.
careful to take this measiirement neither always according too narrow nor too wide across the back from to the actual fashion one armhole to the other, with the arms dropped in natural position at sides.
—
—
Record onlv onehalf.
4.
Length of Side
This

4.
Length of
8i
side,
measurement
is
taken
from
the
arm
inches.
81/27/52,
Write
three
as the desired lengths,
all
J ^
[
pit to the waist line. For jackets and skirts measure down to the desired lengths, and record as shown in the opposite column in
full.
(*).
•Record Onehalf of
Measurements Marked
the back around the arm socket. and Record only onehalf. down to the center waistline in the Record 8. to the other inclined bow line over the most developed part of the bust. measure take this measurement from the back. Onehalf. L Record only onehalf. Onehalf of ment.PARISIAN 5. Begin at the waist line in the center of the back. Record Record Onehalf of aU Measurements Marked (*). Around Tliis the Hips *8. For jackets and skirts. downward Record only onehalf. Height of Shoulder This is an important measurement. Tliis Length of front. I. ^ 11. Onehalf. measure is taken from the front around the most pronounced part of the hips. front. along the most developed part of Height of shoulder. the bust. Size of Armhole Size or armhole. 21 inches. Around the hips. run over the highest point of the shoulder. 1 I Record Length of Front in full. Width *9. measure down to the of the neck required length of these garments. of Chest Width of chest. as arms are differently developed. about 7 inches below the waistline. Height of Front Begin 10. Record 7. in full. in full. tlie W(> J 6. 10. run over the shoulder to the center of the front to the waistline. sleeve joins the dress. 16/26/51 J measurement begins in front at the base and runs down to the waistline. Height of front. at the back neck bone at the base of the neck. as some models have sloping and some high shoulders. Take carefully. 33i inches. where the waistline is most distinctly marked. J f Taken from where the 16 inches. Take along front from one armhole in a 8^ inches. LADIES' Around TAILORING SYSTEM Measurement the Waist Around the waist. in full. 13 inches. . 20 inches.
15. Circumference of arm. that * Record Onehalf of aU Mpasiirements Marked (•). 10 inches. This length depends upon prevailing fashions. Length of Shoulder Measure 12. . scale of width depends upon measurement (one) the around the bust In our previous study figure is we saw 15 inches and that 18 inches bust measurement. ami thickest part of the Record in full. Preparing (See Tables Our at Scales I— IT end of Volume) a\ Since our system is based \ipon length and coriect scales of miasuri'mrnts in order to design a idth measurements. the tape measure around the base of the neck. and could be made shorter or longer. 2. Record onehalf. Ijciigth of shoulder. * I 3.ioint M<'asuri' fi'oni the armpit 14. With these in the length of back of a regular 36 was recorded as onehalf of the around the mind we are ready for our scale. Record in full. Length of under arm. Record in full. scale of length is based upon measurenu'ut (two) 1. — 18 iuchea. 1 Length of Under Arm . Our The measure. 8J the elbow then down to the inside of down to the wrist. we need fundamental pattern for each model. 5 inches. Run 64 inches. Around tlie neck. and reco^'d botii of the ascertained measures as shown in opposite column. Around the Neck *13. Pass till' tape around arm. / 4.PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 12. Circumference of Arm tin 15. as explained later. I'loui the base of the neck along shoul der to the arm socket. the length of back.
and the scale of width always into eighteen (18) equal parts. the divisions will be longer. not that 1st. If we copy these scales of length and width from Table I and paste each on a separate strip of cardboard. We have now eighteen (IS) equal parts. the divisions will be and if we have a longer length of back. Next fold each of these nine (9) equal parts in half. Kemember shorter. which serve as our scale of length. "With the length and width scales in hand. but the length must always be divided into sixteen (16) equal parts. onehalf of the around •^ tlie bust measure always divided into eighteen (18) equal parts. the designing of our fundamental waist pattern. Cut a strip of paper one inch (1) wide. Fold inta three equal parts. but do . and each of these divisions Thus the whole length of back is divided into again into four equal parts. and thus avoid wasting time preparing them when needed. exactly as long as the length of In example cited tliat lengtli is 15 inches. Then refold each of those equal parts into three. as they have the advantage of being divided correctly. paper one inch in width. lengtli For the pupil it is of the greatest importance to know how our scales and width are prepared for any figure. we are now prepared to start . should he be called upon these scales himself. exactly onehalf as long as the around the bust measure. we have both of our scales in readiness for any size of figure. of to make Bear in mind simpl. The Scale of Width In preparing the scale of width.. 3'ou will find at the making the These scales of length and scales of width in Table I should be used for both Df our scales. scales of length from 13 to 174 inches length of back.PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Take a back strip of Scale of Length to the waistline. tlu' illustration each of these parts is one (1) inch long.sure 2d. and scales of width from 15 to 24 inclies onehalf aro^^nd the bust measurement. we recorded 18 inches. that tin size of the parts vary with is the bust mea. . In forget.y that the scale of length is always divided into sixteen (16) parts. that if the length of l)ack is shorter. In our illustration of the 36 model. do not forget that we use as a basis one half of the around the bust measurement. Fold this strip of paper into four equal parts. Remarks About For convenience in the Scales scales of length and width easily and corend of the book in Table I. rectly. sixteen (16) parts.
10 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Designing of the "Fundamental Waist Pattern' TTT TTT Z e ^ TTT 9 TTT 9 f^ Tl O 01 II 8 ol Fig. 4. and mark the same A —B and A— C. Fig. Hlu'cI. a traeing Both are needed for correct drawing and tracing. 3A.3 shows us a tailoriv square. 3A TRACINGWHEEL Fig. . 3 TAILORS' SQUARE Fig. . square wt' juepare "Witli this tailor's on a sheet of paper lines perpendicular to each other. as shown in Fig.
to With one part of our scale of length as our unit of we proceed. we mark off respectively 4. We readily see that the length and width points vary with the size of each of the equal parts of the scale. 5^. A 2 81 12^ 17 19 B Fig. as shown to we begin . 8j. according to the diagram in Pig. 19 this distance along A —B. Reduced to 4 Onefourth Mark the horizontal line A— B and the vertical line A— C. times thus adding one unit part to call our scale of width. 1^^. along our horizontal line from to B. the points of widtli with our scale of width.PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 11 B Fig. 8^. mark A in Fig. and call these points our length points. measure. These points we our width points. 14^ times the length of this unit 14J from A toward C. 17. for we must 1/16 and 1 not forget that the length of these parts are IS of their respective measurements. mark off 2. . 8i Using one part of our scale of width as our unit of measure.5. 5 Reduced to Onefourth 51 Having drawn our lines perpendicular to each other. 5.
and beginningpoint z. Fig. at the measure 5. hut 11. 6 shows vertical lines lines drawn from the width points parallel to A— and horizontal drawn from the length points parallel to jioints are A— B. always the exact measurement of the length point 2. as an aid in memorizing these dimensions. in They may making the fundamental pattern. Length of front. sixteen (16) inches in the lengtli of front of the model. Letter this as sliown in the illustration.C 12 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Next we take measurement illustration. . 6 8^ 121 17 19 B 14. this distance along A— C. Fig.1 Fig. later be omitted The numberings of our length and width necessary only in the beginning.
or Ij inches above z. measured respectively from points wliere line 5 crosses lines 8^ and 12i. 4th. 7tli. drawn from a point inch above z. The auxiliary line from point 4 to the point Avhere 5i meets 19 is our front shoulder line. 7 LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM and points 13 we have added certain lines to our preceding figure. and d. auxiliary line parallel to A B. 5th. Point Avhich is bow line from a crossing our 5^ — — darts or dart. 7 8i 12^ 19 51 one unit part of our scale of width from point 2. The auxiliary line from point 17 to 5^ gives us the back shoulder line. a. forms our front line. namely 1st. 6th. The points c. The line and ending about half way between Si 14Jon the vertical line A C. The full line extending through f —g to the z line is our center back line. drawn from the point b. 8th. 2d. The auxiliary line from point e to 14J indicates to us the height of our 3d. Avhich inch above the auxiliary line previously made.: PARISIAN In Fig. with the formation of armhole . one unit part of the scale of width. is An An one (1) A B. auxiliary line parallel to ] — — Fig. These points will be used in connection lines. onehalf of one unit part of our scale of width.
This curved line represents our front and side waist line. the back line collar cutout as marked in From point s through points f and g.14 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Fig. At i we have point i. the distance s— i equals the length of liack measurement (15 inches according to our model figure). Connect 17 an(l s with a curve line. passes The line 5^—17 and the full 12^ through c. 8 12. curve that begins at the auxiliary front shoulder line. . both are located about centrally between 81 and 12i the side effect of pattern is — — j perpendicular to s — i meeting the 121 hne at j. d.additions : Fig. along the center back line. These points are connected with the dart line 14^ e at line 4. 8 shows us all the points formerly explained with the followinp. m m m— better balanced. 14J At a distance of two unit parts of the scale of width the points k and 1 are placed respectively to the left and right of the intersection of line 4 and the bottom line. From point 19 measure down a distance equal to one unit part of our scale of length and mark this point s. i i From Point o is connected with 1 by a curve wliicli passes through r. to tlie intersection of the armholc. o is parallel to auxiliary line b.1 17 19 B 5i 8i m. This gives the line. m. to secure lines. and thus form our dart. the interis about one unit part of our scale of width distant from Point the line n is drawn to about the section of line 81 and 8i. The points need not be exactly measured. as any deviaIf tion to either one side or other does not aflfect the correctness of the pattern. From point center of the lowest line'.
PARISIAN In Fig. 9 the following: LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM in our 15 we see the same lines we have mentioned former tigure plus ig .
16 PARISIAN From till' LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM we measure on From line z a distance equal this foot of our back side line to onehalf of the unit part of the scale of width. a little rounded cutout gives note also that in next extend the waist side piece a correct curvein at the waist line. and thence curve to d. a unit m with lines to point v. line from o to this We We . which it meets From here we follow the back side curve our back side line. From u measure both right and left a distance equal to onehalf part of our scale of width and connect both these new found points and line. the line. point we draw a straight construction line in lines to about lialf way between to the 8^ line 8 and Hi. This gives us the side part that connects with tlie back.
and have worked instead in heavy lines. and that the correline of the side part is sponding side shorter at the top and longer at the waistline. all Fig. and accordingly we either make narrow backs and wide side parts. In Fig. In the same way we make our front parts narrower or wider. Our remarks following explain our new lines.PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 17 Prevailing fashions dictate whether tlie back or the side parts shonld be narrow or wide. 10 we see exactly the same as in our former figure. heavy lines a longer differently an illustration of the shaped extension below the waist . In Fig. 11 In this figure side piece is we notice at a glance that our back side line. and would make no particular difference in the structure of the pattern. which joins our longer at the top and shorter at tlie waist line. as either would be correct. 10 we and in in lines making of a short "basque" and line. will find that But after cutting out our pattern we both of these correspond ex actly in their length from the top find in to the waist line. We have omitted our construction lines for our fundamental pattern. or vica versa. as we shall see in our next figure.
line z Along measure both to the right and left of line 4. r. and the back line which between and i. Stretch first to the length of the second in sewing. which is equal to one unit part of tlu' scale of width. part of the scale of width diminishing towards our hip We ing the find also that the dart line to k is shorter than the dart line to 1. which we remem!)er measures four unit parts. and ending in line v. and also two side parts instead of one. Now and left of line 4. and shown in Fig. to line of the first to r. a distance equal to one unit part of our scale of width. two unit parts of this one of the scale which we have constructed in of Avidth on each side of line 4 construct two darts. lines parallel to line 4 to l)oth to right meet dart line 14^ e at off At these points p and q. marki]ig points w and z. lines tlie following: liui' ] of an inch above point The corresponding edges of the darts are not identical in length. Avaist As we have stated before.bottom The second dart and line i of an inch above bottom line. draw along line z. which sired. S measuring z. line is passing through j 1. however. however." If.than one dart. one and onehalf (lil unit parts of th(^ scale of width from z and w. the basque is not deis the "fundamental Avaist" patt<'rii. parts of our scale Tims we see that each of these darts measure two luiit of widiii. with points that measure Next connect by means of lines. 12 shoMs the basque waist line in n. Now bottom line connect with line. mark points at distance of i a unit part of the scale of width. and connect respectively with p and q in lines p and q. Dart one from the front The second dart bottom line. . 11 the division of the one side part of our previous two side parts. in ]ilaee dart we must these together nuist not measure more than four unit parts of our scale of width the exact measure of one dart. We figure into must.18 PARISIAN From our front line. fit. Fig. a cutout of onehalf of a unit line. bear in mind that the width of the cutouts between the two side parts and the side part and front must not exceed together the width of the original side cutout at u. will secure a better it In eases of stout figures is of the utmost importance to make two is darts instead of one. and are therefore no wider togctlie). with the first dart line of the seeond dart. but nuist be stretched. to secure a better fit. from tin. which we can make narrower or wider at will. we sec in the next figure how to make tlie necessary changes in the front line. and an exact division of breaking points. Now that is. dart. "We further see in Fig. all our jiattcrns are based on the "basque. LADIES' lli. IIow these changes are made described From k along base line to 1 we see our original single dart. Fig. TAILORING SYSTEM lines we notice in extending toward our end line z and beyond. as we found it was necessaiy to do in the case of the single dait in order to secure shapeliness in the garment. \1. but both of .
and with tracing wheel (Fig. according to previous instruepaper under pattern (pinning pattern and paper together to pr event slipping).3 many explanatory tions. 1.PARISIAN LADIES TAILORING SYSILM 12 19 Fig. from x as the pivot point for a thread held with the left thumb. and may now be omitted from our future drawings. omitted. been correctly drafted. u. from point A — all This gives a Avaist line which we. shows a simplified pattern with lines and lines that show deviation from the original pattern. as shown in the figure by the lines. In this figure point x is taken eqnidistant and 4 along line A B. and back along the heavy lines. Next cut out the three separate pieces and lay aside the original drawing for future reference. place a sheet of .shall use in future fundamental patterns. side. When this pattern has . Now with a thread looped for a pencil. auxiliary line i inch above was of value only in the construction of the basque waist line. 3) trace the front. Fig. describe the heavy broken ark z.
20
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
13
Fig.
With these separate pai'ts hiid l)eofore us we proceed to remeasure our pattern.
Remarks Before Remeasuring
Fundamental Pattern
the
Fig. 14 15 explain how the tliree different parts of the pattern, front, side, and back, are placed before we are able to remeasure according to the fifteen (1.5) body measurements previously made, beginning
—
with measure
14,
1 and ending Avith 1.5. The measurements, 8, around the liips: length of arm; 15, circumference of
arm,
we
will find in
our later diagrams.
order to measure 7, height of shoulder; 10, height of front; 12, length of slioulder, and 13, around the neck, we must place the shoulder of the back to the shoulder of the front (as shown in Fig. 14 15), to enable us to compare these measurements with those previously made, putting the same back to their proper places for remeasuring all of tlie other parts.
find
We
that
in
—
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Z]
Fie.
14
*3.
*5.
*j
*9.
Around the bust, 18. Width of back, 6i. Around tlie waist, 13. Around the hips, 20. Width of chest, 8^
Length of shoulder.
5.
12. 13.
Around the neck,
6^.
Remeasuring the Measures of Width
Li remeasuring, our pattern, we lind siiown in Fig. li the results of the
width measurements of a model with a regular 36 bust measure (IS inches half measure) to be namely: 1, around the bust, 18; 3, width of back, 6^; 5, around the waist, 12; 9, width of chest, 8J; 12. length of shoulder, 5; 13, around the neck, 13. If the model is perfectl.y built we will find these correct the slight difference which may occur in some measurements may be easily corrected, as we will show
;
in the future diagrams.
22
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Remeasuring the Measurements of Length
"\Yc liave
in Fig. 14.
The same rule applies
explained the remeasurin>; of the width measures of our pattern to the remeasuring of our measurements of
length in Fig. 15.
2. 4.
6. 7.
Length of back, 15. Length of side, 82.
Size of armhole, 16.
10.
11.
Height of shoulder, 33 Height of front, 21. Length of front, 16.
Such slight changes that may be necessary can easily be made if a little extra material is allowed in the seams. however.a serious mistake to assume that every tigure is perfectly normally built. 16. In such cases we consider our figures perfect in spite of the fact that they do not come up to the standard model. that the back shoulder with the neck cutout nuist be changed. and in lines variations from this. the back part must be a little longer. 17. that every tigure is built iu exactly the same proportion as our 36 model. we are able to make slight which correct the slight differences that arise through the variations in proportions. in heavy lines. alterations We The Forward Bent Figure Fig 16 shows a forward bent figure. we see the regular or fundamental pattern. In Fig. given in our drawings. In most cases. Thus we see that iu cases iu which the back is somewhat bent forward.PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM to Socalled Slightly 23 Adaption of the Normal Pattern Changed Figures would be making. that is to say. and that the front shoulder and front line must be shortened. necessary for the model shown in Fig. .
see an exactly opposite case. and both front shoulder and front line must be lengthened. marked to distinguish them from the fundain full lines. Therefore the back must he shortened by changing the neck and shoulder line. LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 18 The Backward Bent Figure 111 Figs. 19 . in All other necessary changes are also lines.24 PARISIAN Fig. mental ijattern. namely backward figure. marked Fig. 18 tlie and 19 we lieiit .
note. 21 Flat and in all we notice in lines in the changes we have made is onr fundain mental pattern.PARISIAN Fig. 20 shows us a wide back. we ately narrower. which lines. Fig. while the chest has been made proportionlines Our shoulder have also been changed. has been widened. LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 25 20 The Figure with Broad Back and Chest Fig. . shown heavy Our back.
the front wider for the full and that the shoulder line of the back has also been slightly changed. 23 we see iu lines the neces sary changes from our fundamental pattern. PARISIAN 22 LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Figure with Full Chest and Flat Back Fig. 23 . notice that the back has been We made narrower and bust. In Fig. 22 shows us a figure with full chest. Fig.26 Fis.
24 shows us high shoulders. shows these changes Fig. and the lines. LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 27 24 The Figure with High Shoulders Fig. according the measurements taken We Tlie have also changed the armhole. and Fig.PARISIAN Fig. necessary changes raised in We have the height of the shoulders of the front part as well as the hack. as they would have to heen too low for this figure. tape measure on these three parts clearlv. 25 the fundamental pattern in full lines. 25 .
lu Fig. '26 sliow. LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 26 The Figure with Sloping Shoulders Fig. Fig.s us the sloping shoulder.28 PARISIAN Fig. in order to make the measurements of the height of shoulder correspond to the measurements of our model in Fig. 26. Tiu' armhole has also heen slightly altered. 27 we see that we have increased the slope of our shoulder lines in lines. 27 .
PARISIAN LADIES" TAILORING SYSTLM The Slender Figure 29 Fig. the height of front. Fig. if after re measuring we notice that the length measurements of the pattern do not exactly agree with those of the model. 28 shows us a slender figure. Fig. the height of shoulder. The slight lines in Fig. In drawing our fundamental pattern all 28 these parts will work out correctly. the length of sides. indicate the changes to he made in the fundamental pattern. the length of front. and the length of 29. 29 . under arm. in which the following measurements are longer than the normal model : the length of the back.
31 the of back. and therefuudinniMital pattern must lie shorter uornuil. lines. height of front. e no^v given the most important devianornnd which the pupil may encounter in actual work Avith different models. and length of front are shorter than the full lines marking the original fundamental pattel'll. length of sides.30 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Short Built Figure Fig'. 30 fnrr the tiiau tile slioAvs the sliort built figure. marking length In Fig. and we have tried to show how to meet these difficulties by making the correct variations in our patterns. . height of shoulder.
wliich contains button holes. The iieavy lines indicate how much we have to add to these parts for seams. C the back of our pattern.PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM and Material 31 The Cutting After l)een all of Lining corrections liave been made. A . except for the center Vinek. however. B side part. shoulders and front line. changed In the we j)roeeed to we must be careful to lay out our pattern (lengthwise) would lie on the body if ready to wear. to correspond with the measurements the cutting of our linings and materials. in which case we allow  of an inch. The sleeves (which we show in our next diagram) must also lie lengthwise on our material. Fig. if we wish the grain of the material to run the same in both waist and sleeve. as this The general allowance for seams is f of an inch. and thus give a centrally located front line. . 32. and our fundamental pattern has of our figure. buttons and button holes. shall properly lap over our buttons.shows the front. An extra allowance not shown in this pattern of 1 inches the front line for a hem. the width of the heavy lines being the measure. first place on the material. I of an inch of this extra allowance must be cut away in order that this front. is made along On the right front.
F— G. connect points e and f with then draw our curve e f of an inch with a maximum distance of "We first lines. draw upper a curve for the sleeve. "We notice in Fig. the second a narrower one for dresses. marking off 3. 3t.and 211. SI times one unit part of the scale. always meas these points are ured in inches. to the intersecting point of lines 8. the length making of the under sleeve in Fig. we show in first a Avider one for use jackets and outer garments. measure the width points with the scale of width. ] We lines just made. etc. 17 inches for our 3G model. ent sleeves. f to n. Next from point ure 2J and width. we first draw the lines perpendicular to each other with the "tailors' square. and Fig. As in our fundamental waist pattern. along 7.32 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Under Sleeve the construction of two differ Constructing the Upper and In Fig. Avhich marks the intersection of lines 7 and 12. underarm seam of . "We will find other sleeves in our later examples. 33 and 34. from the have now the curve of the upper sleeve. and 23 inches along (All A — C. suits. 33. 9 inches.) Finish the drawing of cross lines as in the diagram." lettering the horizontal line A—B and the vertical line A— C. i^ A along A— C. The distance from from n to d. meas unit parts of the scale of first (These two measurements of the sleeves are always measured with the scale of width.is li inches. 33 and 34 that from point over 3 to e Ave draw a semi circle for our sleeve ball. From point f through n. A — B. From point A. the D— E. But we tance from miast f remember that the dis to to correspond n and n to d must always the measurements taken from the actual figure of the model.) From 211 point A we next measure 12.
b. now have our npper sleeve and proceed to the under sleeve. as shown in below 12 in the made. Next measure in from point 4 a distance of ^ of an inch. for cutNote in figure that out of under arm. we get the inner curve of lower connecting r and of Now the sleeve. — — — . which is one (1) inch along the bottom sleeve line. lines the end of Connect with bottom of sleeves and 12. and 3^ on line 12.  inch line. heavy line a —h Along line 4i mark with b a point Connect halfway between 3i and 7. c and r. Connect o and t with a curve. is equidistant from 7 In Fig. draw the Point g is half way between lines A — — g. show the onter curve of a narrower nndersleeve. from point a. 33. This forms the outer curve of the under sleeve. Line t —k section of lines 21J and line k and 3^ meets the bottom line a parallel to o 12. Comby connecting lines just made with an elbow the curve near g. F and is G. 33. We also notice rounding a curve along a g. is The elbow rounding connecting these two Fig. with tlw (ll)ow In the nndersleeve the near g. above the intersection of line a 3^ and 2. with curve a. From t continue in double curves. Make the "We rest of auxiliary line a heavy line. D. marking point t. to a j^oint a little auxiliary line before along 3^ In Fig. figure.1. for the auxiliary onter line of npper sleeve. lines near k the same as in lines a g and g h.point of 32 and 23 marks the bottom of sleeve. b reaches an inch away from curve a — its highest point i of line a n. Connect g and h. We and 8. point is one (1) inch instead of of an inch distant from 4J. also with plete the lines. — — 1 passing through the inter trifle above 23.. } of an inch from i. notice lines connecting line This marks a n and d which narrower nndersleeve. C PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The heavy point lines 33 line connecting the last d with the intersecting. 34. ing along the line and continuupper sleeve curve. — b. the following changes t have been made ] In the upper sleeve.
34 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Remeasuring the Upper and Under Sleeves As tlie arms in different models vary greatly in their development._. of the the armwaist of must while be the stretched curve in the upper arm must order of be held to in. . little. we must be eareful in our remeasuring in order to make tlie sleeve neither too wide nor too narrow. If need he.ecure ease movement for the W e nnist inclies add 1\ to 2 the th of sleeves for ng. together with the cutout of the u n d e r sleeve. the sleeve ball. eir I'emeasiired. 14. wi. \Ye must hear in mind. shows how cumferenee of arm.lengthen or shorten the sleeve a it. In hole finishing t li e garment. must a 1 ways be about hole two inches larger than the arm measure taken on the model. are to Fig. however. length of underarm. . or widen or narrow to make it correspond to the measurements taken. that Fig. lie size of armholi'. 15. as the case may he. 35 the measure of the of top the that upper is sleeve. 3") 6.
but this need not cause any difficulty. Fig. but we must always use the fundamental pattern for the basis for any sleeve. uuirk the to 2 inches. as the patterns may easily be changed to accommodate the style in vogue. . an inch in width. The heavy allowance for the seams. 35 36 shows J> oui' sleeve pattern without A is the upper. and the under sleeve. as before mentioned. f of 36. LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM construct ion liiu^s. as arms will always have tliL^ same shape.PARISIAN Fig. The length of shoulder may be longer or shorter. An extra 1i allowed at the bottom for inside finishing. Our next figures show how these changes are to be made. must be lines. regardless of changes of styles. Possible Changes in the Fashions The fashions may lujdergo changes.
and that only the cutout of the armliole has been enlarged. . 38 shows us the fundamental sleeve pattern in full lines and the newly in formed curve of the armball lines.36 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Fie. 37 In Fig. thereby forming a larger armhole and leaving narrower shoulders. Always bear in mind that the auxil iary slioulder lines are the same. and back of our funda mental pattern marked lines in full lines. In a we see how to make change for a narrower front and back shoulder. order to be able to ease our sleeve properly into the arm cutout of the waist. A. Fig. increase the "We readily see that size of the we must in arm ball. side. 38 the front. 37. we see the upper part of Fig.
39 y .PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 37 Fig.
from the shoulder to a point lower down the front shows a deeper cutout. side. inches and draw u — v. It A\(. 44. however. A— ('. order to familiarize themselves Avith the changes sleeves. and the neck cutout along A— C at such an angle that the point of center front waist line measures two ('2) unit parts of our scale of width left in the pattern. in lines and triangle if show how lapels couhl be bending instead of cutting the pattern along the respective lines made L desired. and connect — g. as shown in We readily understand that the waist measure of the is front of our shirt waist pattern three (3) tmit parts of our scale of width larger than that of our to e fundamental pattern. 43. shall also . in together with 41. ecpials to one (1) unit part of the lines.see making necessary to form patterns of shirt We how garments may he lengthened or shortened. l)ut Of course only a few problems in construction are illusti'ated. line line b L —F. from d on Note that the dart lines have been but as they are of no value in our present problem. made in and upper and lower In Fig. scale of width. back. shall give tlie making of the sliirtwaist pattern place in our illus The Fig. b. position e Our fundamental pattern now takes along the c —— f e. 41 Shirtwaist In Its Different the Forms of which will be fully shows us a shirtwaist pattern. The line. — y. a distance to e g. 41. parallel to d — g. .iuld be advisable. we ignore them. by — y and b —F. b — —F p in — The triangle L lines —— ci y. From draw the point L a little to the right of the middle of the neck rounding a — b. falls along A— B. shown in Fig. 42 we have lines) a. to form the Vshaped neck. front. From f measure — f line prolonged. for the pupils to study Figs. making explained. From d we note is to C measure two line.38 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSl EM Pattern The Fundamental Pattern the Basis of Designing and Making Now waists aiiil tliat \v(> liavc mastered the drafting of our fundamental pattern we of changes are ready to study the hlouses. which our waist This extra length may be gathered for peplum above or below skirt. first our readers can cope with further problems through the study of We trations. and cuffs witli all the multitudinous variations how collars and due to changing fashions can be made. A—B in perpendictdar to a A — C. Place the fundamental pattern (in such position that the shoulder point c. 42. the extra allowance falling from d and f to g. how the onepiece sleeve can be drafted from our previotis pattern. these are of such a nature that we feel assitred that the intelligence of tliese.
PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM .
except along the shoulders. only made on the right side. (1) of the side piece falls at a distance of one j. changes are the foUoAving: In 46 the neck cutout d Avidtli — f is continued to point line e. The is X z. Avith the adilition of the our front iiart. 43 side we notice that we have made a onepiece pattern is by joining the three (3) If. to shown in and gives an allowance of two inches correspond to the changes lines in the front. as explained above. ever.extra material left in this Avay on the be not only useless. otherAvise all the same measurements are to be made as in our former pattern. Avhich If Ave cut along e — C.'. to This point may in be conturn is nected Avith g as shoAvn in joined to ('. We Ave Avill shoAV the construction of collars. Init in the Avay and. for This extra allowance the shirtwaist line made to give freer play the arndiole and side. as must be more roomy than the ordinary t tightfitting garment. Avhich e is tAA'o (2) unit parts of our scab' of from the lines A — ('. The new pattern nnit parts of our scale of width wider than the original. 47 Ave see the same pattern to the waist line as given in our illuslines on the shouder. unit part of our scale of width from From s to and from is t to r is oiu' (1) unit part of our scale of width. Avill our lapOA'er Avill slope in toward the Avaist. should be cut In Fig. and back. as in Fig. fundain mental liaek pattern so that the neck rounding should a position that k. Along the front the 4 Ave make an extra albiA\anee Ij inches in addition to inch already allowed. as shoAvn in lines. to be used as facing. parallel A— ('. parallel to the waist line line. 43 has been ] nmde larger Ave shoAv that added inch to each of our seams in order to : tliis changed armhole. way is it contiinu' down left off. 45 AVe give an example of a Avaist with slight changes in the con struction. in a straight line. In Fig. where inch of is alloAved. hoAvever. how we Avish the back in one piece we lay our pattern just along the length wise fold of our material. and back of our fundamental pattern. Thi' Fit. —n of the fundamental pattern.40 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM A —B to Fig. We and 1 next place the side piece to the back so that the two pieces join at m. at and such our center back at the waist line. cufifs. two (2) unit parts of our scale of width from n. 44 Ave see the upper and under sleeve in in fit lines. But lines as our armhole Ave haAe in Fig. therefore. 45. Our fundamental pattern lines. corresponding to tration. and (litf<'rent sleeves as proceed further. as only side Avould this should lap over. Tlu. In Fig. Avhile the otlicr Tliis increase. is shown in and the addi tions to the pattern in In Fig. falls "VVe lie place i our h. front. . 43 shows our periHudieular A — C.
PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 41 .
pleats. Fig. Fig. 49 in shows a front. or on either side only. 55 shows the lines: c 1. of an inch for shoulder. Fig. this strap falls on front and back to make the shoulder illustrated Fig. t lines. 52 shows the back pattern with ]ileats to marking places for nmtch the front. with a low eollareut in In Fig. nanu'ly the deep. as will be In 111. to The it. and 2 inches for extra length be low tlie waist line. Avaist with three (:>) pleats in front and back. and lines on cither and the pleat stitched along the lines lines. 46 — 47 show where Fig. back with the the shorter.42 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM tlie Fig 48 shows how the front and liack part meet along center shoulder. The liiii's Fig. in this figure has a wide bottom curve. is one and onedialf inches (H) from line f. center of the back and front. ielative • a in — Fig. an inch above v — z. These inserts are an inch width the pattern. indicate the deep \oke position after proper liending in of niati'rial along both cut edges for seams.'! shows us a waist with a yoke. o lines. 41. "). We in must not forget in Figs. one and onehalf inches (11) from and the lines parallel indicate where the original pattern sliould be cut to give serts that are in room i of to make in the in needed to form the pleats. while the side are brought together. and — h— '} 1. 49. 11 inches in addition to the above men tioned 5 of an inch along the front for facing. but this fullness could be gathered instead. This pattern is increased exactly in the same fashion as the front. The heavy line represents the fold.. but could be made shown later. 49. which can be nuide in front and back. 53. to give the correct f V shown in Fig. 51 shows how our iiattern cut with the extra allowance appears. the cut for tlii'ee different styles of yokes. both in front The sleeve shown differently. mentioned connection with Fig. Fig. Our figure shoMs and in the Ijack. 54 the line to line s e shoAvs the neck line cut. . 4.'i.. but may be increased or diminished according to the width of the ]deats desired. to nnd^e the allowance desired. which o. 45. "(O we observe that the neek rounding extends to n. lines and also gives the formation of an extra shoulder in strap in on eithei' side of the seam. The short vertical lini's mark the pleats. the curve that is necessary to form point at the center back. namely f of an inch for side seams. The f Y— tile /„ the — f and the v —x — the indicate shorter. in yoke cuts. Tile jiarallel =^= — lines i — g. the in if deep. and the <'Ui'\'e(l yoke.
PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 43 .
44 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM .
~.________^rrx .PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 45 1 /^^^^^.
f — t. equal to tance s bottom width of upper and under sleeve together.xis line A— B. the full figure lines the original sleeve pattern. the sleeve fit the en larged armliole of u . A—B. is to be used only as the dividing line of the tlie upper sleeve. show The that the points 8 and H are each 3J inches from the axis In the lines A — B. The two parts are placed such a position Avith reference to tlie liorizontal line A — B.46 PARISIAN LADIES" TAILORING SYSTEM sleeve of our fundamental pattern in Fig. 56 shows us an upper and under reduced to oneeighth of full size. tlie that is. 57 shows us the a. in Tlie points s— s are respectively 34 inches from the center line. the part beyond curve a — r. are now prepared For a to a consider the construction of different styles of collar The construction of garment. the sleeve line made in eitlier of these styles. . It is shown here the dis demonstrate the fact that the width of tlie onepiece sleeve at the bottom. 59 illustrates the formation of different collars. r. line The and to is from L to s is parallel to our central line A—B. always depends upon the cutout or lapel will fit of fit tlie collar which perfectly a low cut neck. 58 shows us the center lines. Fig. to conform with Avider armhole of the The sleeve pattern has been so placed that and s tlie distance of c tlie points s from the central axis A—B if is Si inches. —X equals distance s — r. The front and back pieces of the fundamental pattern have been placed shoulder to shoulder for the construction of onr collars. equal to o t is — to the upper x. and w mark tlie different sleeve lengths and widths may be desired. sleeve. as we and shall see in the accompanying figures. Fig. Collar Construction We collars. in order to make a perfect fitting collar. will never a higher cut garment. we and the original fundamental sleeve see pattern in sleeve pattern waist. while the indicate tlie the shirt allowance waist. and our fundamental upper and undersleeves. necessary to lines a tliat make . In the undersleeve we cut away a. but add the curve measure. is The point and e can be placed higher or lower as desired. suitable for shirt waists dresses. to is give the we must correct arm at The point connected with which the same distance from s as We have now a onepiece or shirt waist sleeve which may be gathered the liottom made shorter for an attached cuff. In full lines the addition tlie made to widen the the upper part. in lines. Fig. We must therefore always consider how deep or high the cutout of our garment will be.
PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 47 o n m c n m .
60 shows us more plainly that a fit collar which perfectly fits a high cut neck will never a lower eutout. 1) in to c. and from fail there in lines to k. follows lines point of this i to f. We notice in this figure a very low neck cut from a to b. from g to to 1 in lines and to the center back. the turn back lapel tlie desired. lines. f i Another can be traced from lines. ing at b in = = =:= lines to c —— e f.48 PARISIAN LADIES' a TAILORING SYSTEM 1) In the front pattern the line — I'epresents tlie tluit is pointed cutout of the neck. in We notice one that. in = = == lines. From pointed to d.collar can be traced from b in ==•=•= to c and in lines to r and n. and i. a — b. as indicated in shaded lines. many in We show another from b 1. including the lapel in front. or visa versa. Fig. If we make a collar from a to the j point of the shaded to h. d to e and e to c in If. Now following. shown starting from over the rounding to h and . in f we see one collar pattern. and then proceeds along the lapel i. along the neck 1 cutout e. A b in collar rounded lines in front and square in the liack is 1. from there and then lines to A smalliM. through fit over i to e. which is bent over for the lapel. to the point.the neck rounding. we cannot to observe that this collar will not a high neck. however. we have a collar with to j. Here also no extra lapel.i — is <1 = = = = lines. the collar must be dififerently shaped the lines in front. Startpoints. we see a is shawl collar rounded in the back or In this case no lapel style follows a in necessary. lines. in :::::::: lines to d. if desiied. Still another shape ean be ti'aeed from lines to h j. and from and e. A there in dif'fci'eiit seen extending from 1) 1i in in lines to lines to 1 —g and f. l. A and up differently shaped one starts to i from the lapel point lines to t to f in e and c and one in  — e and from to c.. 61 the neck cutout from a to b shown in lines. from in and from i to e in . and the sluuled in triangle that part either eut otf or bent back to form a lapel._. then proceeds from of the collars f to i in and to c along the same lines as one previously con sidered. and from there there is ^ ^^^ one is lines to and in • lines to e. is In Fig. Another — b. lapel. from b to b to g in lines. — Still another follows the curve lines. the center bar!.
62 POCKETS Reduced to One Fourth .PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 49 Fig.
is the pattern for g. In the first row we see the finished pockets a. lines 57. of sleeve r to The construction f— i—k s. d. In the at the top.— 50 PARISIAN LADIES" TAILORING SYSTEM Pockets lu Fig'. and in an upper sleeve pattern placed with the higliest point of the arndiall to we see the lowest point of our front shoulder seam. desire. Cuff' g li. and the ==== In Fig. as shown iu e tern. and below. about identical with Fig. as . or dress. and d. the same way as sleeve f. seams joining. sleeve in and k.shown in the unfinished pocket. In this figure. f —i— k. but pointed This lines. 58). the patterns for these pockets. In skirt. so that the upper cuff should not lie flat over the lower one. in the figure. if we so and f are finished pockets. see e is gathered. The pocket full is then placed about two (2) inches above the lower end of the length sleeve. 63 we again show different sleeves and cuffs. cated by the same letters. partly the center of the under sleeve and therefore extends from cuff has its seam in — — F to F beyond. and again demon strate the cutting of a onepiece sleeve from a twopiece one. and below. 62A shows us a front of a jacket. that is where it belongs iu the jacket. are widened in the upper . su])ply shaped portion of sleeve tlie extra width necessary to make Sleeves i The heavy dotted show the required shape for added to our upper sleeve three (3) tucks shown iu f. is used for cuff h. through tlie A — B. e tion under e lines — g—h — g— shows three Tlie in dift'erent cuff's. lines in the pattern The finished pocket show the place of gathering. 62 we give several styles of pockets. show us four sleeves in one piece (as shown used here are constructed as shown in cuff's a b d. e But we can also make the same straight along tlie top. from the lower to the upper cut. is illustrated iu Fig. uudersleeve in full lines. b and c. cuff' are cut respectively as a construction lines E T R. and iu the lowest row three indi different styles of pocket laps. The the upper tops of in Fig. are one (1) inch apart to give the necessary fiare needed. e. designated by the same letters. The The b and c. are patterns for the same. The dotted curves from bell f. of which we show the construcis h. a —b — cuff's —— — —— p^lo. in full and partly in same figure. this pattern marked in and the upper sleeve Tlie sleeves are placed with under arm The same patin full lines is the pattern for cuff' e. lines full lines Fig. 62A we how we find the position of the pocket. Cuffs and Sleeves In Fig. The little rounding at tlu' top of tlie finislied pockets we can easily make ))y cutting.
PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 51 .
f measurement of the model previously taken. measure From C which marks skirt. measure onehalf around the waist e. arc. have shown previously in Fig. the starting point of the Next holding the tliread circle maker oft' at x. two. as taken on the model for wliom they are intended. point a eighteen (18) inches from point A. 26 inches. along a slight curve a distance of 22} inches. Waist measure. First we will endeavor to show how to cut all skirts a pattern for a circular skirt. (13 inches onelialf of tlie measure). As we liave licfore mentioned. Avith the left thumb. three or more pieces. — We next proceed to build our pattern from the In Fig. Length of back. 37 inches. as this line is invariably way between center front and the center back. On line A— we form the perpendicular A B to A B mark point x 2 inches from A. how the waist line is con and we we had made this with a piece of thread held with looped througli the thumb of the left hand. Length of skirt. and a pointed pencil the thread forming the Witli the tailors' square in Fig. inches. marks the starting point tlie of our side line. liip line. in a curve along tlie "i. (i:> oft' inches in the figure marking the point Along tlu' hip line from mark at g onedialf of the hip measure (20 inches in the figure). measure f. the length of the skirt at the center front. and e.52 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Cutting of a Circular Skirt Pattern A skii't cau be made in one. 64.{6 inches in front. but tlie width of the bottom depends npon prevailing fashion. c. Lengtli of side. Hip measure. or onehalf the width of the half marking the point n. :. 12 and recall that 13. From n in this way rei^eat this measurement to i. Form the hip line g in the same manner. On line Seven (7) — —C as shown A— C a. the skirt a widths vary with fashion's dictates.) a along a —C measure the front length of skirt (36 inches in P^rom a. Remember that are cut and rcuieasured in inches. We structed. 64 our model measurements are used. and lati'r show how this may be increased or diminished. . inches from mark mark f. 36^ inches. We use for our model here bottom width of two and onehalf (24) yards. 40 (20 inches onclialf of the measure). The point eciiiidistant from lialf a. with the point of the pencil start at a and mark arc a — e for the waist line. waist line. tlie From the figure.
PARISIAN LADIES TAILORING SYSTEM 53 .
The pockets. Now draw of the bottom curve. of back and lower sweep the same Fr(un point o. 66 below line. in order to insure a perfect l:! case the skirt made in two is fit. the fit front. back at the waist line. As all patterns are without seams. c. c. meeting one anlines indicate other at the hip it is If the skirt made in two parts these the hip to how a possible to is make the skirt narrower. skirt. 66. we notice yoke patterns in in lines. In Fig. and the other pointed line. The shown in Fig.— 54 Connect line e PARISIAN LADIES' with n. and make an extra allowance finished skirt in is at the top (if). Above P'ig. TAILORING SYSTEM Tliese lines give us respectively the side and e and g witli i. o. the point just made mark at C a distance equal to the length of the front. Furtlicr necessary explanation relative to the back of the skirt. by the cutout of one inch at c. in a slant along A —B mark line off at e a distance equal to one half around the waist measure lines. it is necessary make tills is a small cutout from the straiglit length of the back. connecting the points marked to form the bottom sweep of the skirt. our method is procedure to secure propi'r length of as previously given. Along the si<lc lini' ''iGl mark off a distance equal to tile side length measurement of the model (here inches). Tims we (1) find that our curved waist made exactly inches. along have the perpendicular A — P> to A ('. and from a. These yokes are cut exactly to the rounding of our waist and smoothly to the body. differently constructed. One is circular with the waist line. and center liack of our skirt. Fiom A we oft' measure four inches A — C. 65. 66 we see the if same circular but giving us the same results compared. Connect a and e through c. Next from a. We to a. small triangle of c. side. to Be careful remeasure to secure accuracy. will be given in the discussion following Fig. (13 inches in the illustration). Connect a — e with and mark the center of is As of the width of this skirt identical witJi that of Fig. we will find Fig. we must allow § an inch for these seams. shown meeting the waist line on(>half of in an incli on either side is This triangle shows the part to be eliminated parts. . this o. and liottom for the hem. 62. In Fig. 64. From the waist line. and of onehalf (^) of an inch at e. line r marking the length of l)ottoin n. Along the center back measure oft' the reqiiired length of back for the model (37 inches in figure). we see by and s at the is of the skirt. indicated as a V between tlie dotted and the heavy side On the either side of the lines nuirked line. should we desire the same. with a curve to form the waist in in the center As the body curves to e. measure on a perpeiidii'ular 2 inches to line.
tape both of these seams. of If If cut in one piece. Fig. and lines.PARISIAN Both of our LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM in 55 illustrations 64 and 66 could be cut is one or two pieces. to prevent sagging of the material. 66. These are formed ou the same Fig.66 . the lengtli of front cut in placed on the fold the nuiterial. both front and back are placed on the fold and as a result Care must be taken to the two bias pieces meet at the sides. sFig. H shows a belt in the heavy lines. two pieces. Two pointed yokes in different shapes are marked in principle as Fig.
Thus our waist E measures C shows h to Fig. 67 sliows a fourgorinl skirt measuring two and oneludf . We ol)serve also that the bottom of gores is A and B are rounded the auxiliary lines. (2i) Pig. a This skirt consists of a front piece cut on the fold. which gives us a waist measure of 4 inches. Fi'om the hip point u inches. B shows m — n fiom ni parallel (^'oiuiect to< A — C. We from our mention again that figure. 'S Measure 16 inches from n to to . plus 4i inches. and the Imck gore left straight on the bottom. h t.^ we add waist measures of the dif inches. make the rounding u E. for tlie From liiu' cutout of 11 inches made. j. Connect o and s i. From i —o along measure in to E a distance of inches. along liue A— C mark points —r— s. center front laid on the fold of the material. and part cut on the fold. 6S. g and The cutouts from m E liue and from g from E to to E are H 4. 6SA shows A—C perpendicular to e A—B. 6S.i and li inches to g. Tlie gores slunv they are cut from nuiterial inches wide. threefourth (f ) of an inch Fi'om s measure ofl the length of the front along A— C this the dotted auxiliary line (36 inches in the illustration). 68 A—B— C to are made fi'om u. and the tlie ])lrated skirt. inches together. in cutting the goods. The waist line s E measui'e 4^ Fig. our total half waist find correct for this model. to line From A apart. or inches. Connect E with a curved line.'xt of the Gored and Pleated Skirt lU'iiioustratc thv desiguiny and cutting of the gored skirt.^ inches each. ]iioportions In order to be able to divide widths of our gores in proper tlu= we must decide upon tlie width of the skirt ai'ound bottom. back The same all is sliglitly gathered. —k a parallel to A — B. . all measure 13 inches. which leaves 12} inches to waist of the back gore. of an inch to ('. The bottom is line from k to 1 is 14 inches.56 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Cutting "We iK. skirt patterns are cut from measurenu'nts taken and are without seam or hem allowance. Along A— B r nu^asure 6 inches from A marking point 1^ o. plus 4 inches. ferent gores is 4. which must be added Fig. which we AVe notice that our cutouts at the waist is line in Fig. a side part. From measure J From half of tlir C" unvisure 16 inches to i on the auxiliary as tlie liue. This width If we gather tlie onethird.')() yards around tin' Ixittom. Tins gives us the is bottdiii width of the front gore. This point the hip liue 7 inches below the Avaist line.
X m c n a Length of Sides .TO l^.SAME AS FROM.E To.11 Same as From.e To j  .sy.ETO j  n CENTER Length of Back on ^a .PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 57 t/in^ From. CR FROMt..
In the next few lessons we will show how to diangc our fundamental and back. aiT unchanged. Fig. A. there being 20 inches each l>otli of whicli are laid on folds. This plus the back gore gathered to four inches. to A— C 2:i and tJie a. in B. width. and 10 inclu'S in each of This the side gores (the two in the pattern are cut double we must remember). x to anil to k. gives IS inches for half of the waist measurement. from m to g 6 inches. in The bottom of the front and back gores. the oidy difference being a that Fig. front fold forms a box plait. . tin The center back. about 2j yards for the bottom of the skirt. with the plaits on both sides facing Fig. skirt is yards wide. and make fitting back. fi'om h to B 10 inches. The length of side. in pattern D. 70. m — u — E.  lines in B indicate the line along which we remeasure the The short Fig. There plaits can be made closer together or farther apart as desired. from A to o is 4 inches. g — u — E. to one witli seams running to the shouldiT botli in front We will also endeavor to show how to make a variety of dresses by combin ing different skirts and waists. 71 shows a plaited skirt.desire to leave out the gathering the back. t The cutouts — u — E. from x to z 6 inches. 73 shows l)ox plaits wiiich can lie jilaced closei' oi farther apart as desired.58 PARISIAN Tlie sides of patterns LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM are A— B — C in marked to sliow joining seams. The perpendicular and the lengths from A—B to C. 67 and 68 gave a fourgored is whereas this is skirt in six gores. Further Ave observe the lines from w to in k. is This change partly due to fashion and jiartly to thi' fact that the material too narrow to permit cutting a wider pattern without jiiecing. gives us a total of SO inches. x — u — E. z^u — E and h —u — are each 1] inches in Adding the front and side waist line nn_asurements we get 9 inches. A m to n. waist pattern. skirt. which a we foIloAv sliould Ml. and in T). etit'ect shows us practically the saun' skirt. in C. 69 parallel lines in C indicate gathers. wliich are the same length as shown the figures. 72 from A to B gives a pattern of a plain plaited skirt. Fig. At the top of Fig. measurements from li A to e —— r s.
PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 59 From.Same as From EToC Cente „ Length of Back on Fold D3 .J^ To t.
. ..N30 < c/i ..60 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM anod NO >i3j.Na3 PQ \. X h X o u z CO bJD 2 bJDa U N  anoj NO d3i.
extended to the desired length. Avhieh width distant from the armhole. 80 is also a combination of a simple shirtAvaist and a plain skirt. 77 we shoAV a dress Avith yoke in front and back. Next draw the full line h g. to the shoulder both in front and back. made from a shirt Avaist pattern. 76 shows a skirt with a yoke pointed in front. Connect the former side lines with this line. In both Fig. Fig. The line t s is the basque back. It is made Avith a belt pointed in front and can have any desired collar shoAATi in Fig. originally made. add about two inches and to finish neatly. The fiuidamental shirt waist back connected with side part pattern is shown in full lines.PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Shoulder 61 Changes from the Fundamental Pattern to a Pattern Seamed Front and Back Fig. This is a combination plaited skirt. in the front we must have an or provide a separate piece for facing. the former basque front in lines a — e. 6L . In Fig. to this length in order to properly connect waist As mentioned of buttons before we must allow for all seams. as high up as it formerly reached in the arm rounding. and extend entirely to the shoulder. 75 illustrates the formation of a back pattern with seams reaching from the waist to the shoulder. 79 is a dress made from a shirt Avaist pattern and a plain skirt joined at the Avaist line. to the in and a waists with seams These seams take the place of the usual dart. We and must . so that o is one half (i) of an inch to tlic left of the eonsti'uction line. 74 shows the perpendicular line of the dart in i A—B j. the fundamental waist patlines tern in full lines. thereby giving a longer line effect. connect i j in is two unit parts of our lines — for a construction line. and plaited both in front and back below the yoke. 74 and 75 the waist extends only to the waist line. 59. and ties in front. curved about onehalf (1) of an inch slightly to the right.skirt. Connect o and the second Cutting along the full lines we have with seams reaching to the shoulder. Cutting along this line will give ns a twopiece back with a seam from the shoulder point h on the shoulder line. Avith collar as desired.'shaped line i — j. dart with a slight rounding. lines indicate the joining of side and back of the original basque The to from the onepiece shirt waist back. is invariably the point where the collar starts. and a pocket is placed on the right side. The belt ties in front. to A— C. Then draAv the slightly bov. The around the Avaist line. now divided our front into two pieces Fig. — — two unit parts of the scale of width lines. Fig. For the proper lapping additional allowance and button must also holes. We mention here that the point of the cutout of the neck. From from the armhole. Fig. in full lines. 78 is a plain skirt belt reaches twice Figs. and bodice The bodice and skirt are joined at the Avaist line to the belt of the skirt. 60. and shirt Avaist. and the front scale of from From point on the shoulder line. draw h —g in — to the waist.
62 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM CQ .
PARISIAN LADIES TAILORING SYSTEM 63 .
chapter we will consider the changes necessary to plan a suit using our fundamental pattern. Si we give a jacket of a suit. while Fig. which resembles Fig. 81 is made to the hip line. In Fig. will give any kind of loose jacket with plaits or shirrings in front. the only difference being that the pattern in Fig 74 is constructed only to the waist line. All explanations and measurements are the same as previously given.64 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Suits. Arranging the Fundamental Pattern for Jackets and Outer Garments In this As wo all know a ladies' suit consists of a skirt and jacket. A REDUCED TO ONE FOURTH C o c O 111 C . Our shirtwaist pattern as previously shown. or in the back. or in both of these parts. 74.
suit. or any length desired. pockets. Sleeves. . 82 shows ns the side and back part put together the 75. marked front facing. explanation previous Hyp w Reduced to One Fourtfh ine Before Ave jDroceed any further. of the back at the Avaist line t is from g to r. that to say. From draw the heavy curve parallel to z h meeting the back about at the same height as formerly. x and 1 — are connected with w at the hip line. coiniection Avith a skirt gi\'es us a tAvopiece cuffs. extending to the liip This in line.• PARISIAN LADIES' lAILORING SYSTEM 65 We from notice also in Pig. could be brought either construction — The point l^osition. our cutout. Through this change the side part is Avider than formerly. Fig. 74. 81 a piece is of the front part. as we notice. We is notice noAV that the pattern broad across the shoulder blade in the back and curves in to a narrow waist line. but only 2iV inches wide. 81 and 82 shoAV a jacket seamed from the slioulder both in front and back. are in ac ly cordance made. 75 the side part. 82 the line connecting h 1. 1 to the iight or left of its present without aft'ecting the Its shape at of the pattern. and suitable Avith collar. that just as wide as from g to r with a little curving in be tween. extends from h to z at is the waist and the Avidth the back from h to line. we continue to the hip line. x is z. wliicli is a dnplicate To this we must make all additions A to C as exijlained with reference to the front in Fig. In Fig. same as in Fig. and forming a new side line which folloAvs the exact curve of the other. Ave Avill consider the mak ing of tailormade collars. line thus position detertlie mines the narroAvness of smaller at the waist line. C hoAvcA'er. Fig. it but instead of drafting the pattern to the waist line. back making our back The distance equal to g 1 — — x. B u A t We notice in Fig.
and liardv O and we two D. e. The rounded upper cutout is connected Avitli the upper curve of the standfit ing collar. good Fig. and the top 2 inches from this center line.' of an inch on each half collar has been a(bled in front for buttons and buttonholes. except rounded. . Diagrams is and d explain how these are made. they have the same measurements. how the collar shap(Ml is around them. previously shown. while tlie upper X — O — D — A must be strrtcheil. In the working diagram f. e. and as botli are the same width. that a is Tile diagrams a and b are the same I'ront. parallel to is and line I) paralbd to A— li inches above The perpendicular E 51 inches to the left of A. shows the same coat with a is shawl eollar. The curve O —D crosses line E about inch from the top. the lower portion N — A V must be pressed in. and D Ti inehes above The lower curve on the same as in Fig. The center line 2i inches from the base. they will exactly leaving the extra allowance free for buttons and Intttonholes. A— 0. Fig. The completed by O and if T. with eur\'cs as s]lo^^•n the figure. For collar pattern e. namely 60 inches. garment. as we notice. the collar cut in one. is U J J inches below — A. draw drawn A—O Line U is placed J of an inch below it.— 66 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Cutting 111 of Collars for Tailored Suits and Cloaks M"itli Fig'. in wr notici' that a rounding made front and in b. that :. gives the collar the is At tli(> center notice a triangular cut whi<h pieces. and li there are two sets of The distance between the two The length of these lines is lines in each set h'ligtli i of an inch. d and c i sliow a poinfrd and a roundi'd collar. Point N on line half U is half way lietweeii and E. presents a front with a In full lines la]iel and a tailored turndown collar lines. the half is of the collar. f. Diagram in sition. it. 83 "we see a standing collar a pointed or roniided top. on a part a — A — U. we see how the collar appears turned over in po In liiiis we see an allowance oi 11 inehes for lapping in front. shaping of this eollar at the center back as previously explained for Fig. We see in the pattern In a. auxiliary lines placed two inches is In a apart. A— O 10' inches long. and b pointed in Otlierwise. tliis From N draw curve N tlic —A meeting collar in is —A way between E and A: connecting gives the bend of ioljar. S^ inehes long. If correct shape fold at 1) made in however. E 5i inches from A. The same principle applies to the e. lie An extra front facing must also cut for the line it. to secure the jiroper rounding needed for tit.
Reduced to One Fourth . 8 3 COLLARS.PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 67 Fig.
is a pattern of a front facing. . Along wide for the tlie slit center back in if we notice below we intend to make one. It is tight fitting and turned back cufifs. in order to make has correspond with h. and the extra inch and onehalf added from the fundamental pattern with previously given patterns. which has previously lieen explained. shows iis the same same as diagram cutout. N marked. e. collar. IS inches long which can also be used for a suit coat. and II tin' back of the fundamental pattern in TIu' waist lini' in F— G and II is marked with lines. Ave see the is except that here the lapel as well as the collar rounded. neck in the fi'ont is always the starting point of the G lines. the same allowance of two inches at the Avaist line. and the hip with lines. one and onehalf (II) inch being needed. 85 shows an ISinch jacket semiiltting in back and loose in front. the as in In cutting our front facing it we must not omit Fig. 8. In II the back piece. in front and an extra facing as explained 81 R and N are the patterns of the twopiece sleeve used in this jacket. gives the looser back. extending 10 inclies below the Our illustration made with belt and pockets. 84. 84 F —G and II are without scams which we must add: in Fig. and R a collar. A shows a tailormade jacket. LADIES' same TAILORING SYSTEM collar as exijlaiued in e. waist line. O a enlf. 86. shows thr side. As the distance is of two loose inches. and high turneddown 84 F. Either front can be used for the pattern.68 PARISIAN In diagiain g. shows the fundamental front 'lattern with darts in lines. and F— G and with collar II show the fundamental and lapel pattern to the waist line in lines likewise so F shows tile right angle cutting through the starting point of the collar in front. this extra piece. e. There is also a line marking the seamed front from the dart lines to shoulder. but to we see in lines we have added The a piece at the neck collar is get a longer and more pointed lapel. for the The cutout collar. e. to the iiei'iiendicular also allowed in secui'e accordance front we readily see how we the shown in A.3 A shows a loose jacket to be used either for a suit or coat. H the waist line a tlap one inch All parts of Fig. Diagram that h. It is is 18 inches long. Fig. Fig. tlie measurements for which liave previously explained in Fig. D lieen is a pocket.
PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 69 / I R / ' N / . y* ]• I I Reduced to One Sixth . 84 •• I I ' ) \ . \ / / \ . / / / / / / / / / Fig.
made . I of an inch width marked by lines slanting in from the collar to the waist line.SU h. The pattern for the upper and lower parts given. If doublebreasted desired the additioiud allowance of 2h inches as previously explained must also be to the facing. we have added two (2) unit parts of our scale of Avidth at the waist line in front for buttons and an extra allowance and liuttonholes. the lines show how In these look Avhen finished. At the neek in cutout. AVe see also the upper and under sleeves of the regular fundamental pattern and a small replica of the tailormade collar. Fig. of an inch on each we notice in lines the allowance of seam made in the upper parts of the sleeve to conform with the allowance in the armhole of the side piece. 83 d. and the to H R show the allowance necessary conform with the waist pattern. and the turneddown portion of In F in lines to tlu' waist line we have the fundamental patcollar jjoint a. F and G must each be cut constructions separately. 6 is cut tlie separately. also be used for a suit lapel is The front and back are seamed to the and the pointed larger than previously shown. N to the lines shows the usual addition from the lines The distance between these and the line marks an addi tional allowance of 2^ inches for the doublebreasted effect. N shown in is cut in one piece with F. should be cut on the fold at the center back.70 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM We lines see in as this F and 6 garment the fundamental pattern to the waist line in is and cut on the order of a waist. tern. A shows a semifitting jacket which could shoulder. 81 must also be made. and as H lines in and D are also separated by the seam from the shoulder. and both in the front. the measurements and the construction of which are given in Fig. The tailored lapel and collar begin at the neck cutout. A front effect facing is as Fig. which is a straight back. SS shows a double brea. G we have allowed one unit part from the armliole to the waist line. F and G and are cut separately as indi cated by the seam In 11 and I the lines show in side at liack pattern joined and also the construction of the l)aek narrowed the waist line. the addition for the pointinl and larger lapel. D. Fig.sted jacket of the twopiece sleeve is also with a plain turneddown collar composed Fig. In and N  the upper and nndersleeve patterns. 87. In F is in lines we have the fundanu'ntal pattern to the waist line. 83 e. G shows the regular pattern. The bottom front can be cut either sqiiare or rounded as illustrated. down the length of this garment as exjilaiucd in former we have made the seamed front. coat. of the standing collar of Fig.
PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 71 1 D .
72 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM Reduced to One Sixth .
PARISIAN LADIES TAILORING SYSTEM 73 .
or after pattern II Pig. Furthermore we notice from the waistline downward extra allowance of waist line. 89. large pockets. lines = = === mark a length of 48 inches from the neck. . F and E are parallel to S the respective distances of 2^ and 3^ inches. making E 131 inches in R and F '[ are each 15 inches long and of lines from F to E show a possible cut for a S. The lower A cvit in one with the front waist. We is see tliat T extends i inch above the Avaist line. The extra pieces liutton . and also with the ad from the armhole to the waist along the side. T is cut separately. dition made The The to fit the enlarged armhole. connected as shown in the figure. In at H we have a onepiece turned down collar. of an inch on each side between F and serve as allowances for and buttonholes. Fig. B. • These allowances are for seams. 2^ in F. The short lines along R— indicate that this part should be gathei'ed to the width of the front side piece. collar of this coat could be cut in two pieces according to Figs. The distance between the is lines and in lines the from the second dart downward the allowance for the seam. The lines. Any of the patterns formerly shown could Vie used for a garment of any length by simply prolonging the pattern to the length desired. The diagrams A and T show in line and in line the fundamental pattern to the waist line. the full length of pattern being 54 inches. deep and belt. and in heavy lines the usual addition from the ai'mhole to the waist at the side. E and N lines tin:' adregular fundamental sleeve in fidl lines. collar if desired. S3 b and 83 d.74 PARISIAN II LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM in tlieir and I again show the fundamental patterns phieed lines. should we desire the same. and measures along the bottom 24 inches from G to H. and is 15 inches wide both at the top and l)ottom. F perpendiculars are drawn to E of an inch from each end P'rom points long the correct collar measurement. From A front piece the neck point is we see the addition to the front to G. In C we see in one piece marked in lines. and that J of an inch allowed on the fundamental waist pattern from the second dart down. the back and side with the addition at the waist line as in the shirtwaist pattern. and in show the dition fold as shown. H and from I an the inches outlined Avith lines slanting for a ripple or flare in the back as shown in Fig. relatively positions in liy but each of these parts is cut separately as indicated the lines. 89. cuffs F shows a long cloak with turned down collar. This pattern is cut on the and measures 21 inches along the bottom from T to V.
PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 75 .
76 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM .
PARISIAN LADIES TAILORING SYSTEM 77 .
whieli is cut on the fold as indicated. the addition in front being allowed for buttons and buttonholes. At the neck lar addition foi cutout. F shows the front facing. extended above the waist to E — S. The :=^== collar. AVhile the E to S and lOJ inches along the liottom from P to C. The entire upper portion could be cut to the waist line and lower portion to R. is marked A. in lines. and the part from H a G could also be separate pieces. R shows a doublebreasted coat with pockets. side parts are cut together. and S and O the two pieces We have also the regular fundamental pattern with the addition to the waist line. E shows the front facing and L and G two pieces of the front. 91. 90. Diagram Y shows the addition The back and line. and I show the regular sleeves in full lines lines. should we desire a 42ineli length coat. to R shows a singlebreasted coat seamed shoulder in front and back with lapel and tailormade and attached tlie cuffs. In all five pieces of this pattern we notice the lines wliich indicate where to cut this pattern. and the back. Hues are 6 inches from the bottom. . or 54 inches through the entire front length. The upper waist portion and the lower part is extended below the waist line. b and m show the construction of the cuff. this to the fundamental pattern in lines. we notice in lines along the length the regu buttons and buttonholes. The bottom from L notice that to F measures 25 inches. collar and allows a freer We to could cut this coat in a different tlie fashion. is cuffs. L cut on the fold i of an inch higher than the waist line to allow for the seam. and the addition for the wider armluile in This coat is 36 inches from the waist to the bottom. Fig. line from E to S. tlie They extend i inch below the waist being is allowance for the seam. These two addi tions are necessary for the seam allowance. N d. The garment measures 251 inches along the bottom from additional piece measures 6 inches at the top from R to P. at the We ]M L is gathered top from the center of the back to the center ]iack seam. Fig. is the side part. belt and standing collar to which a sailor collar attached. the whole length being 54 inches. and in full lines 2J inches from C to R the addition for the doublebreasted coat.78 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM fitting The bottom curve below S gives a better ueck movement.
PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 79 m Front Facing .
80 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM .
it is necessary make an additional allowance of ^ of an inch at all seams to take care of the extra bulk of material. 164 L to C. is A and E the seamed side and back pieces. . will be 3 yards. T and R the seamed front parts. and 10 inches from S sleeve. in doublebreasted effect. or 48 inches to the =^== lines. and the Avhole sweep of the coat Fig. and the one still wider both in front and back. When to heavy weight material is used for jackets and "coats. is The length of this coat it 54 inches to the bottom. f of an inch required. and these therefore must be allowed for either in cutting the pattern or in cutting the material. 13 inches from A to R.PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM as follows to : 81 Along the bottom the widths are From R will to L 15 inches. tailor and b show the regular fundamental The lines lines and c the regular made lapel collar. f of an inch allowance should be stated. 92. to B. made for (if all seams unless otherwise At the shoulders. the latter of which cut on the fold. from to L to F 16 inches. all We again wish to impress the fact that our patterns are made without seams. mark a collar deeper in front and wider in back. desired. the back center seam is cut in two pieces) and along the front. but could be made any length is The width of the bottom inches from a as follows : 16^ inches from F to 0. the side part from A T 15 inches. Thns the half width of this garment measure 54 inches. and the back from E M 7 inches. Along the front an extra allowance must be made for facing. G shows about the same coat H is the front facing.
9o.82 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM The Cutting of All Kinds of Capes According the Fundamental Pattern Fig. These lines are made with the tailors' square perpendictdar to each other as previously explained. Fig. I I I \ Front '\ REDUCED TO One fourth Vd . lines 93 shows in the front and back of the fundamental pattern laid along A — B and A — C. 93 B . W shows us a cape wiiich we can make any desired length. A Fig.i4 OQ 1^— ^ s ' \ •.
I I Front / / / The cape shown in tliis is seamed along the shoulder as we notice by the V cut between front and back shoulder seams. the highest point of the side armhole «N 'N.\ / >k / pattern this line. REDUCED TO ONE SIXTH / / In this pattern our construction line / the fi'ont is A B./ \ \ \ From tlie neck cutout of botli front and back we now mark off the lengths desired by a circular line passing thiough the side o(. The shoiilder is scale ^^ —^ both of seam of placed to the back of now ' the shoulder of the front so that the neck cutout front and back forms with a semicircle. We now joint the ends a. placed along so that d falls two unit parts of the of width from it. in Fig. the highest point of the front shoulder line with c. . / \ / / .PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 83 line The front neck cutout is placed along A C in such a way. line \ connecting front and \ V back. 93. 94 \ the \ \ \ length cape. and line prolong this to line This gives us a side for remeasuring Fig. Tlie shouhler line of tile back meets the shoulder line of the front at its lowest point. lines. and the neck cutout of the back lies along A B in such a position that the waist line u is two unit parts of the scale of width from A B. this semicircle marking the center of the line . Avhich will give us the bottom of the cape rounding. / Fig. desired for the . that tlie waist is two unit parts of the scale of width from A C. figure 9t shows another cape without seams. d — — — — We next connect a. in line as "^^ shown e. and fundamental is — / 4'"' y.
96 shows the same cape with a shawl collar instead of a high standing one. The construction capes lines. onr line o — e may more be pivoted from o towards c flaring ett'ect.A 84 PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM tlie We tlie next mark tlie tlic desired lengtli of the front. is 94 in The sleeve d. 95 gives a cape with a separate sleeve setin. as this will give lis a Fig. the second piece is the socalled sleeve as demonstrated in Fig. slioulder line neek eutout. iDoints and a tlie desired length of the back from point. The sleeve part joining the back is and front cut away is after the desired length of sleeve reached. and draw tlirough these semieirele with a as the center lines. The corresponding parts are sewed together to form the sleeve. Fig. In the fignre tliree ditTerent lengths are given lines marked in and lines. 95. . which can be extended of the full if length the cape or cut shorter desired as shown in Fig. shown by an are from k through the highest point of the shoulders to g. Cutting along tliis line will give us the front and liack in one piece. tlien desired length of side fi'oni o to e. The darts shown mental pattern in the front funda are ignored in cape making. — any distance desired. 96. The center of the back o — c is laid out on the fold of the material. If a more flaring cape is desired. is of both of these shown in Fig.
. shoulders. we have increased or diminished our half pattern one inch.. where an allowance of J of an inch is made. The gradings are ^ of an inch apart for width. lar 36. and highest and lowest elbow point. Table IV The front of our fundamental pattern for iu lines. The usual  of an inch allowance is made for cuffs. side 'Vni. In the back the grading lines are on the average '/^^ of an inch apart. but at the top of the armball gradually diminish in width toward point A in the underarm seam. a full size 36 figure is here shown lines from points {' to E and D. and center back. line A B. and back '/. The curve of the underarm cutout increases in enlarging. 36 figure marked in heavy to we notice construction lines from A to B and A C in lines. of an inch apart. except at the front. — — — the same as in the iipper sleeve for the length. both in width and length. In front and at the sides /i^ of an inch is either added or deducted in grading. These lines make respectively larger and smaller armhalls as indicated by A B. and li inches in the length for turning under and facing.— PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM 85 For Professional Designers (See Table III— IV) for a Table HI In examining the upper sleeve pattern lines. In addition to this. etc. The table also includes a schedule of all necessary measurements from 30 to 48 bust measure. the construction of same being guided by the By adding the grading distances of the front "/j.. we must allow  of an inch for all seams in the upper and under sleeves. and decreases in diminishing our fundamental pattern to meet the grading lines of the back under arm seam. pockets. In the under sleeve the 36 pattern is marked in heavy lines. collars. In the side part we see the P is the U to those larger than the reguguide for grading to sizes smaller than 36. and The grading lines are ^/^. and from 2 to 2i inches for doublebreasted garments. Remarks As all patterns are made without seams.. In the basque f of an inch is allowed on all seams. A B and A lines mark respectively the highest and lowest point of the underC in arm cutout.. and § of an inch is allowed. The grading lines which indicate the different sizes are respectively f of an inch apart in the upper arm backseam. lines N V and P. to the center front an allowance of li inches is made for singlebreasted effect.. as all patterns are graded on a ' — — — — — — twoinch scale. and higher or lower elbow points indicated by A C. Doubling this on the whole pattern we obtain the size of the pattern.. These lines are used as guides in grading the pattern. and from point F to K Note the through C and F to S.
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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 063 989 8 .
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